Indonesian Batik A Cultural Beauty 1st Edition Trade Research and Development Agency Ministry of Trade Republic of Indonesia PDF Download
Indonesian Batik A Cultural Beauty 1st Edition Trade Research and Development Agency Ministry of Trade Republic of Indonesia PDF Download
https://ebookmeta.com/product/indonesian-batik-a-cultural-
beauty-1st-edition-trade-research-and-development-agency-
ministry-of-trade-republic-of-indonesia/
https://ebookmeta.com/product/indonesian-gemstones-exclusively-
captivating-1st-edition-trade-research-and-development-agency-
ministry-of-trade-republic-of-indonesia/
https://ebookmeta.com/product/trade-in-knowledge-intellectual-
property-trade-and-development-in-a-transformed-global-
economy-1st-edition-antony-taubman/
https://ebookmeta.com/product/chinas-cultural-trade-strategy-1st-
edition-libin-luo/
https://ebookmeta.com/product/usa-through-the-lens-of-
mathematics-1st-edition-hritonenko/
Backhoes Ray Mcclellan
https://ebookmeta.com/product/backhoes-ray-mcclellan/
https://ebookmeta.com/product/accounting-for-social-risk-factors-
in-medicare-payment-data-1st-edition-and-medicine-engineering-
national-academies-of-sciences/
https://ebookmeta.com/product/exploring-the-facets-of-
revenge-1st-edition-helena-yakovlev-golani-charity-givens/
https://ebookmeta.com/product/functional-biomaterials-advances-
in-design-and-biomedical-applications-1st-edition-anuj-kumar/
https://ebookmeta.com/product/the-dark-water-rescue-a-k9-handler-
romance-disaster-city-search-and-rescue-book-31-1st-edition-
jenna-brandt/
The Private Sector As a Catalyst for Health Equity and
a Vibrant Economy Proceedings of a Workshop 1st Edition
And Medicine Engineering National Academies Of Sciences
https://ebookmeta.com/product/the-private-sector-as-a-catalyst-
for-health-equity-and-a-vibrant-economy-proceedings-of-a-
workshop-1st-edition-and-medicine-engineering-national-academies-
of-sciences/
Indonesian Batik
results to selected general public to increase their awareness and knowledge about the rich poten-
tiality of each major production center. Towards that end, TREDA has organized a series of efforts at
collecting and analyzing relevant data and information on specific products with regards to their
This booklet under the title “Indonesian Batik: A Cultural Beauty” presents an account of one of
the major Indonesian products, namely batik products. The reader will find interesting background
information about batik, perhaps the most treasured cultural heritage of Indonesia. A better com-
prehension on its background will enhance the readers’ appreciation for this attractive Indonesian
product.
Muchtar D
Director General
Trade Research and Development Agency (TREDA)
Message
It is our great pleasure to share with you one special type of numerous product lines belonging to In-
donesian creative industries, in this particular case, batik. As a country situated at the cross-road between
two oceans and two continents, Indonesian culture displays a unique mix shaped by long interaction be-
tween original indigenous customs and multiple foreign influences. The creativity of Indonesian people
Batik is a masterpiece of our cultural heritage which has continued to flourished over the years and has
shown signs of becoming even more widespread boosted by the dynamic development in technology,
aesthetics, and economy. Batik has developed to be an important industry that contributes considerably
This book has been developed to improve Indonesian share in the world market. This booklet presents
background information on Indonesian batik for the readers to appreciate. Dedicated to everyone that
appreciates the beauty and attractiveness of Indonesian batik, this book will give vivid images of the el-
egance and style of batik designs from every corner of the archipelago.
26 BATIK INDUSTRY
v
Batik The Cultural Beauty 7
8 Batik The Cultural Beauty
The Cultural Beauty of Indonesia
Indonesia has been known for its batik since the 4th or 5th century, and it has been
said that Indonesian batik dye techniques and designs are as numerous as its islands.
The designs and colors vary in accordance with the villages and ethnic groups that have
spread out in different islands. Several Javanese villages have maintained their heritage of
Batik craftsmanship for hundreds of years.
Batik has been both an art and craft for centuries and is part of an ancient tradition.
The word batik is derived from the Javanese word ‘amba’, means ‘to write’, the suffix ‘titik’
means little dot or to make dots. In a manuscript on a lontar leaf originating from around
1520 AD which was found in Galuh, Southern Cirebon (west Java), it is written that batik
also means ‘seratan’ which in Javanese means ‘writing’.
As a matter of fact, batik is ‘wax writing’, a way of decorating cloth by covering a part of
it with a coat of wax and then dyeing the cloth. It is a technique of covering parts of fabric
which will not receive color. The waxed areas keep their original color and when the wax
is removed the contrast between the dyed and undyed areas forms the pattern.
The emergence of batik art in Java is still in discussion until today. Each expert has his
own opinion. G.P. Rouffaer (1900), Jasper and also Pringadi (1912) said that batik art came
from India together with the arrival of Indian merchants in Indonesia in the 4th or 5th
century. Along with the trading activities, Hindu culture brought by the Indians, including
While other archeologists believe that batik art, which has become inseparable
from the Javanese culture, has taken a very long process of cultural transformation.
It emerged from local culture and in the course of its development it was strongly in-
fluenced by Hindu, China and European culture. Batik had emerged from local culture
long before the foreign influence came to Indonesia.
No other country has developed batik to its present art form as the highly devel-
oped elaborately patterned batik found on the island of Java in Indonesia, although
they also use the technique of dye resisting decoration. Some experts think that batik
was originally reserved as an art form for Javanese royalty, as some particular patterns
like the parang design were reserved to be worn only by royalty from the Sultan’s pal-
ace. Princesses and noble women may have provided the inspiration for the highly re-
fined designs in traditional patterns. In those times, the women of the Sultan’s Keraton
occupied themselves by painting delicate Batik designs. This fine art form became a
sign of cultivation and refinement.
For the Javanese, batik is not only a popular decorated textile, but it has a deeper
philosophy of importance which takes each Javanese from the cradle to the grave.
When a baby is born, batik is used to wrap the new born baby in and later to carry
it around. When people get married it is an integral part of the wedding attire of the
bride and the groom as well as their parents. And finally at the end of their life, Batik is
used to cover their bodies during the funeral.
Batik has continued to exist over the years and has shown signs of becoming even
more widespread boosted by the dynamic development in the technological, estheti-
cal, functional and economical aspects. In spite of the many ups and downs and chal-
lenges occurring in the Indonesian economy, batik arts have continued to flourish up
to this decade.
If in the ancient time only noble families were allowed to wear certain batik designs,
nowadays almost everybody from all economic levels wear various kinds of batik for
everyday use as well as for special events. Batik arts have become important product
of Indonesia. In many big cities batik industries are found, which produce either ‘batik
cap’ (stamped batik), or ‘batik-tulis’ (hand-drawn batik). The batik factories are mainly
Batik spread to the USA, Europe and other Western countries as it was introduced
by the Dutch who travelled to and from Indonesia, which was a former Dutch colony.
The old Batik cloth was brought to Europe by Governor General Raffles when he re-
turned to England in 1816. The oldest Indonesian batik is now on display in the Victo-
ria and Albert Museum in London.
The natural dyes are derived from plants and animals, like the roots of a tree,
branches (wood), wood skin, leaves and flowers. To strengthened and give
desired effect to the color some fruits and other materials were also
used like citrus, palm sugar, guava and many others.
The second color that is applied when making traditional Batik is soga, a brown
color which can range from shades of light yellow to a dark shade of brown. The dye
is called soga as it comes from the bark of the Soga tree. Mengkuda, another color
used in traditional Batik, is a dark red color. This dye is created from the leaves of the
Morinda Citrifolia.
In addition to the three basic colors, there is green, which is obtained by mixing
blue with yellow, and purple which is obtained by mixing blue
and red. When the soga brown color is
mixed with indigo, it will produce a
dark blue-black color.
The hand-waxed batik or hand drawn Batik (Batik Tulis) is produced by painting the
wax on the cloth using a traditional tool called the canting. The hand-stamped Batik is
produced by stamping the wax on the cloth using a copper stamp to make the Batik
design. The other technique combines both the canting and the stamp in order to
produce more creative designs.
In order to be able to bear the heat and wax, the cloth used to
make batik is usually strong material such as cambric, poplin, voiles
and pure silk. The artists usually avoid using synthetic fabrics. High
A woman applies wax using
fashion designs drawn on silk are very popular nowadays and these exceptionally canting. Various designs are
created by using different size
high-quality pieces can take months to create and as a result are quite costly. of canting.
In producing hand-drawn Batik, there are several steps to follow. Detailed production process of handmade
and printed batik work is described below:
1. Before the wax is applied the cloth is carefully prepared by washing it in water to remove the
starch and then reapplying a particular amount of starch to the cloth to facilitate the waxing
process.
2. Then the fabric goes through the ngemplong process in which the cloth is stretched out on a
large board and pounded with a heavy piece of wood. This process which makes the drawing
of the batik pattern on the cloth easier is only applied to cloth to be used for batik tulis.
3. When the cloth is ready, the first application of wax is applied on both sides of the cloth using
the canting or the cap.
4. Then the second application of wax is applied. This process is called nembok in Javanese, origi-
nates from the word ‘tembok’ meaning wall which literally describes what happens since the
thick layer of wax that is applied forms a kind of wall of defense to keep the dye out.
5. The cloth is now ready for the medel or the first submersion into a bath of dye. When tradi-
tional dyes are used this process can take days as the cloth must be submerged and then air
dried alternately several times. With modern dyes once is enough.
6. Once the cloth is dry, it undergoes the process of ngerok or the removing of the first applica-
tion of wax from those parts that are to be dyed with a brown color. This is done by using a
scraper or cawuk.
7. The following step is mbironi or the third application of wax to cover the parts of the fabric that
have been dyed and leaving the parts to be dyed another color open.
8. The cloth is now ready for menyoga or the application of the second color which in the tra-
ditional process was soga or the natural brown dye. When using natural dyes this will again
take days, whereas when modern dyes are applied the process will not be longer than half an
hour.
9. When the cloth has been dyed as desired, the batik goes through the last stage of the process
called nglorod, in which the wax is removed again by soaking it in boiling water.
A piece of Batik is named based on its motif, the whole picture decorating the cloth. The motif is usually re-
peated to cover the whole space of the cloth. In traditional Batik art, especially in Java there are old basic patterns
to assemble Batik motifs, among others are :
1. Parang, meaning knife or sword, which forms a slanting or diagonal pattern. This
basic pattern has several varieties such as ‘rugged rock’, ‘knife pattern’ or ‘broken
blade’.
3. Kawung, a basic pattern of intersecting circles, depicting the fruit of the sugar palm
tree, which has been known in Java since at least the thirteenth century, is a very
old design.
4. Pinggiran is the pattern used as a border along one side of the cloth frame.
7.
Some of the regions that have unique batik motifs and designs
Jambi Jakarta
Madura Papua
In addition to the philosophy of life symbolized by batik, Indonesian batik has ritu-
alistic significance. Objects like flowers, trees, birds, twinning plants, leaves buds, but-
terflies, fish, insects and geometric forms are rich in symbolic meaning. Although there
are thousands of different batik designs, particular designs have traditionally been as-
sociated with traditional festivals and specific religious ceremonies.
The majority of motifs are taken from nature, leaves, flowers, mountains,
water, clouds, and animals. These motifs often represent religious or
mystical symbols related to the early beliefs of the Javanese people
and then later to Hinduism. These motives represent simple, natu-
ral objects that are important to the lives of Javanese, such as the
leaves of the ‘aren’ palm or the fruit from the ‘kapok’ tree.
Although the process of making batik remained basically the same over several
centuries, the process has made great progress in recent decades. Traditionally, batik
was sold in 90 X 250 centimeter lengths used for wrap skirts (kain panjang) to be used
with a ‘Kebaya’ or blouse, which form the basic pieces of the Indonesian traditional
dress for women. Nowadays, batik is not only used as a material to clothe the hu-
man body, but it is also used as furnishing fabrics, heavy canvas wall hangings,
tablecloths and household accessories. In addition, batik techniques are used by
artists to create batik paintings which beautify many homes, offices, hotels and
other public buildings.
Indonesia has various arts and handicrafts which reflect the unity in diversity of
over 300 ethnic groups that are joined together as one nation. Just as every ethnic
group throughout the archipelago has its own language and dialect, cuisine, tradi-
tional dress and traditional homes, they have also developed their own textiles, or-
naments, carvings and items for daily use and special celebrations. This rich cultural
heritage of art and handicrafts is one of Indonesia’s true national riches.
Yogyakarta is considered to be one of the places where arts and handicrafts are
highly developed and the government, aware of this priceless national asset, has sup-
ported batik, silver, wayang and
other artisans for generations re-
Batik and Batik design are not only used
sulting in a rich variety of art forms
today. Bali, as one of the tourist for traditional costumes, but also used
destinations, is also another place
for modern fashion, many kinds of handi-
where handicrafts are very much
supported and developed. crafts and household items. Batik designs
are printed and decorated on many kinds
Besides being used as every day
household items, Indonesian handi- of handicrafts
crafts are also decorated and used
for different kinds of purposes. A wide variety of materials are used such as different
kinds of woods, stone, ceramics, leather, fibers, bamboo, rattan and grasses. Natural
and chemical dyes, beads and other natural ornamentation are used to decorate these
items, many of which have developed over time into distinctive art forms.
Today, Batik and Batik design are not only used for traditional costumes, but also
used for modern fashion, many kinds of handicrafts and household items. Batik de-
signs are printed and decorated on many kinds of handicrafts like leather handicrafts,
wooden crafts, painting, household ceramics, pottery, gift ornaments, bamboo and
many others.
Application of batik design, a traditional Many Indonesian designers strongly appreciate the art of batik as the nation heri-
Japanese kimono.
tage and they feel responsible to preserve it. Beside the government support to the
industry’s growth, some designers work almost exclusively in batik. Iwan Tirta
and Josephine Komara (Obin) are two top designers who have dedicated
themselves by working almost exclusively in batik. They have made
tremendous contributions to a revolution in modernizing batik
by translating traditional motifs into contemporary designs and
experimenting with all kinds of different fabrics. They have cre-
ated a business that supports thousands of employees; among
them are dozens of artisans practicing their craft at home or
in small studios across the Isle of Java making their business
major source of livelihood for so many people.
Beside Iwan Tirta and Obin, Indonesian top designers who have contributed to the
With this spirit, the Indonesian designers work together with the traditional, lo-
cal batik artists and craftsmen to produce different and exclusive motifs which are
modified from the existing old traditional batik patterns and motifs. Some of which
are the results of mixing two or more traditional motifs. Some of the designers admit
the difficulties in translating their modern ideas to the traditional artists to produce
contemporary motifs, as these batik artists have dedicated all their lives to the old
traditional motifs. However, over time these traditional batik artists, with good
collaboration with the designers, have managed to produce beautiful, innova-
tive batik motifs.
Some designers in collaboration with the batik artists have created totally
new batik patterns and motifs, which are mostly influenced by tribal designs
from remote areas such as Irian Jaya and Kalimantan,. These exotic inven-
tions have been received well by all levels of the society within Indonesia
and overseas. Foreign, world class designers such as Diane Furstenberg,
who has been long inspired by the beauty of Bali Island and its arts, recently
presented her new collection for Spring Summer 2008 with Batik motifs
blended into linear and minimalist designs.
Beside adult fashion Indonesia also produce Batik garments and fashion for babies,
which have been exported to some countries like US, Australia, Canada, Ireland, UK,
Japan, UAE, Singapore, Spain, Denmark, France, Belgium, Taiwan, Mexico and Italy.
Indonesian artists have started to produce more ceramics and pottery decorated
with batik motifs and patterns. Iwan Tirta for instance has created a joint production
with foreign companies called Kedaton collection, a chic and graceful tea set, was pro-
duced by Royal Doulton, the world famous English tableware manufacturer. The Ke-
The process of drawing the motifs on the surface of the white wood, which is used
as the base, is the same as the batik drawing process on the cloth using a canting. First
the white wood is cut and molded to a certain form, then the picture is drawn on it,
then comes the waxing and dewaxing by boiling the waxed wood in the boiling water
and coloring. The rest is final touch by coating the wood so that it is resistant to wa-
ter or other liquid. Most of the products are varieties of utility items for household
needs, office accessories, and other decorative items.
The batik silver products are favored by tourist from foreign countries who come
to Indonesia for vacation, and besides selling the products to these tourists, most of
the silver jewelries have been exported. The production sites of batik silver are mostly
in Jakarta and Bali.
It is a dilemmatic to defend traditional culture if, on the other hand, one must earn
enough to make ends meet. The regional government should inject a new spirit to fos-
ter the culture of traditional batik especially in the production centers like Yogyakarta,
Surakarta, Cirebon and Pekalongan.
The Indonesian Government actively encourages and supports the art of batik and
with its increasing popularity and success in the western markets batik has become
the icon of the country. The supports have been given to both government and inde-
pendent cultural institutions that are concerned about Batik as the Cultural Heritage
of Indonesia, such as:
For health safety, the Center has started to promote the use of natural Batik color-
ing with slogan ‘Back to Nature’. Later in 2007 it has been officially appointed to be the
authorized body to issue Batik standardization as stated in the ‘Indonesian Govern-
ment Ministry of Industry Legal Decree No. 74/M-IND/PER/9/2007 concerning the use
of Batik Indonesia Trade Mark’.
In order to be certified as Batik Indonesia Trade Mark, the quality should comply
with the standard of batik processing methods: Hand - Drawn Batik, Stamped Batik or
Combination of the two methods. It also should comply with certain standards (%) of
cloth shrinkage and standards of grayscale of discoloration.
This museum is also furnished with storage and conservation rooms, a meeting
room and a Batik Art Shop where visitors can buy various kinds of souvenirs made of
batik such as old colonial Batik (which is not produced anymore by the batik manufac-
turers) postcards, posters, paintings etc. A Batik catalog is also available for the visitors.
In order to give complete information service, a library and information data room is
going to be built in the near future.
Textile Museum
The Textile Museum is located in Central Jakarta’s Tanah Abang area, closed to
the oldest and biggest South East Asia textile market, in a European-style building,
originally owned by a Frenchman in the 19th century. The building was then sold
out and owned by several rich merchants, and finally in 1945 during the struggle for
independence of Indonesia, this building was used as the base of the People’s Secu-
rity Force. In 1952 the Department of Social Affairs bought the building and in 1975
The museum displays traditional kain (fabric) collections from various regions in
Indonesia. The spacious room of the museum displays a wide variety of fabric from
different parts of Indonesia, each labeled with information on their origins, types of
material, production processes and purposes of use. A visitor will get to know, for ex-
ample, that South Sumatra’s capital city of Palembang also has its own batiks, while
men in the interior regions of Kalimantan wear clothes made of refined bark as smooth
as textiles.
Kain (used to refer to material for clothes) is not only functioning as daily clothing,
but in can also be used as an instrument for affirmation of family relations, position
and social level of someone in the community.
Batik cloth and ikat or tied dyed are the leading types of traditional cloths dec-
orated with certain patterns. The museum also displays the silk- screening (sablon),
hand-painting and tin-coating (Prada) coloring techniques. Most of the collection of
traditional cloths or fabrics aged of hundreds of years and have become the scarcity
antiques collection. Principally, the collections kept in this Museum are decorated fab-
ric associated to textile world, especially textile from within the national territory. The
collections are divided into several groups, namely:
The other part of the Museum also displays traditional instruments closely related
to fabric products like weaving and batik instruments from various regions. Within the
museum there is a special garden of various plants used as natural coloring dyes, for
instance young teak leaves can be used to paint cloth resulting maroon color.
In order to introduce Batik, in 2005 the Museum started to open a batik making
course for public and tourists. The course is made as simple as possible as the students
are given the fabric with patterns already been drafted. The drafted cloths are available
with Batik designs of any choice.
The Minister of Trade Mari Elka Pangestu said batik from Central Java, mainly Solo,
is very rich of design and kingdom’s cultural heritage pattern or combination of other
culture and art. Batik from Central Java has been exported to the U.S., Sweden, Ger-
many, Arab Emirates, and France. “At least there are 3,400 batik designs in Solo. The
Solo Regional Government until 2008 has patented about 900 batik designs.”
The Foundation receives a lot of support from the Indonesian government es-
pecially in initiating the establishment of the Batik National Museum. Its activities
include: assistance in the production technology, marketing promotion, human re-
source development, business partnership, preservation and protection of Indone-
sian Batik through property rights, patents and labeling. The Foundation with the sup-
port from the Indonesian Government has actively organized a numerous seminars,
conferences, exhibitions, research and training in the effort of developing national
Batik art and industries.
Other efforts have been carried out by artists, collectors and companies by build-
ing private museums and, for example Danar Hadi Galery of Old Batik and Iwan Tirta’s
Museum in Surakarta, and some others.
JAMBI
PADANG
PONTIANAK
CIREBON
PEKALONGAN
BANGKALAN
UBUD
JAKARTA
YOGYAKARTA
SOLO
PASURUAN
32
32 Batik
Batik The
The Cultural
Cultural Beauty
Beauty
Another Government project was carried out by Bank Indonesia, namely SIPUK or Information System for Small
Scale Enterprise Development. One of SIPUK programs is the Research of Batik in Central Java which aimed at de-
veloping the small scale Batik industries in the area. The information was distributed to the society through media
and to the local government in order to get clear picture of the condition of the Batik industry needed for develop-
ing a regional plan on Batik manufacturing. The development of SIPUK project is closely related to the policy and
strategy of Bank of Indonesia in promoting the development of small enterprises, which has been carried out since
1978 until the implementation of Act No. 23/999, which specifically intended for small enterprises development
through the provision of useful information.
Bandung Jombang
Banten Klaten
Banyumas Lasem
Batang Semarang
Blitar Sidoarjo
Ciamis Sragen
Garut Surabaya
Gresik Tasikmalaya
Indramayu Tuban
JAYAPURA Jakarta Tulungagung,
Jember Wonogiri
Batik
Batik The
The Cultural
Cultural Beauty
Beauty 33
33
Production Areas of Surakarta and Yogyakarta
Surakarta (Solo)
Surakarta is an important production center of Batik beside Yogyakarta and Pe-
kalongan. The production of Batik has become part of the traditional economy of the
population in the area. The typical traditional patterns from Solo are as follows:
1. Sido Milo (symbol of happiness and wealthy)
2. Sido Dadi (symbol of prosperity, happiness and wealthy)
3. Satrio Wibowo (symbol of a man/woman with dignity)
4. Tikel Asmorodono (symbol of love given by others)
Kampoeng Batik Laweyan (Laweyan Batik Village) is a well known place of Batik
manufacturers located in a traditional village full of Old Dutch architectural buildings
with narrow streets, typical of Indonesian village. Besides having showrooms and
shops, some of the manufacturers organize short batik courses for tourists.
Traditional markets play very important role for Batik transaction, especially for
small and medium scale enterprises; for instance in Solo there is Pasar Klewer or Klew-
er Market located off the west gate of Karaton’s North Square, this old market sells
all kinds of fabrics, predominantly batik. Other traditional fabrics are lurik (Javanese
hand-woven striped cotton cloth) and tenun ikat (tyed dyed). There are hundreds of
Batik shops jammed along narrow passageways.
The typical Yogyakarta Batik patterns and motifs are mostly Parang, Ceplok, Sido-
Mukti, Truntum and Kawung. The Yogyakarta Batik color combination is similar with
Solo, dominated by rich brown color, indigo (blue), black, white and cream. The fa-
mous Batik Production areas in Yogyakarta, among others are Prawirotaman and Ku-
lonprogo.
Bringhardjo traditional market is one of the important places for Batik traders and
it becomes the meeting point for the small and medium scale enterprises to do busi-
ness. Beside wholesale, there are many Batik counters offering retail prices to local and
foreign tourists. This market has been functioning as one of the tourist’s attractions
in Yogyakarta, the best place because of its complete collections; ranging from batik
cloth to batik clothes made of both cotton and silk materials, with the prices ranging
from tens thousands to a million. There are some principle, big manufacturers of Batik
such as Winotosastro, Mirota Batik, Ardiyanto Batik and some others, that have been
exporting to foreign countries.
Cirebon
Cirebon is an important area for Batik production in the northern coast of Java. One
of the important Batik production centers in Cirebon is ‘Batik Trusmi, a village popu-
lated by 520 small and medium scale industries. It is located 7 kilometers from Cirebon
City. In 2007 it showed that more than 70% of its population or 5,938 people work in
this business, consisting of 80% women and 20% men. The investment value in Trusmi
was about USD 1.5 million. And the production value was up to USD 5.2 million.
The same as Batik from places in the north coast of Java (Batik Pesisir), Cirebon Batik
has been influenced by European, Arabian, Chinese and Indian cultures, which have
colorful designs and motifs of animals and flowers. Concerning about motifs and pat-
terns, there are two categories of patterns:
1. Kesultanan Kasepuhan Motif (Kasepuhan Sultanate Motif ), which is influenced
by Islamic teaching, which prohibits drawing animal designs on the Batik.
2. Kesultanan Kanoman Motif (Kanoman Sultanate Motif ), which allows the art-
ists to draw and have animal design on the Batik. (It includes motifs of the Ke-
prabonan and Cirebonan Sultanates)
The materials used are of silk, cotton, cotton prima and primisima. Around 40 per-
cents of the production is absorbed by local market, 50 percents for inter-island trade
and 10 percents is exported to foreign countries such as Japan, Malaysia, Singapore,
Myanmar, Laos, United States, Brunei Darussalam and Germany.
The artists have thousands of ideas in designing Batik motifs without conforming
the traditional motifs, for instance during the Japanese occupation they created Java-
nese Kokokai Batik motif suitable for kimono coat. In the sixties they created Tritura Ba-
tik, named after one of President Soekarno’s famous political decrees. There are some
other new designs such as President SBY batik and Tsunami Batik which were created
just recently. Beside hand-drawn Batik, there are plenty of stamped Batik manufactur-
ers in Pekalongan and are usually used for casual dresses and household crafts.
The big and famous Batik market in Pekalongan is ‘Pusat Grosir Setono,’ a whole-
sale and retail market place built during the economic crisis in 1990s to help batik
manufacturers market their products. There are around 7,000 workers working in 12
central areas producing Batik, batik garment, handicrafts. They mostly work for small
and medium scale industries.
CHAPTER V
CAPTAIN OF A COMPANY
At first Mrs. Clifford thought she did not care about having the
children go to school, as they had been kept at their studies for
nearly nine months without a vacation, except Christmas holidays.
But what was to be done with Horace? Aunt Louise, who was
not passionately fond of children, declared her trials were greater
than she could bear. Grace was a little lady, she thought; but as for
Horace, and his dog Pincher, and the "calico kitty," which he had
picked up for a pet!—Louise disliked dogs and despised kittens.
Sometimes, as she told Margaret, she felt as if she should certainly
fly; sometimes she was sure she was going crazy; and then again it
seemed as if her head would burst into a thousand pieces.
None of these dreadful accidents happened, it is true; but a
great many other things did. Hammers, nails, and augers were
carried off, and left to rust in the dew. A cup of green paint, which
for months had stood quietly on an old shelf in the storeroom, was
now taken down and stirred with a stick, and all the toys which
Horace whittled out were stained green, and set in the sun to dry. A
pair of cheese-tongs, which hung in the back room, a boot-jack, the
washing-bench, which was once red,—all became green in a very
short time: only the red of the bench had a curious effect, peeping
out from its light and ragged coat of green.
The blue sled which belonged to Susie and Prudy was brought
down from the shed-chamber, and looked at for some time. It would
present a lovely appearance, Horace thought, if he only dared cross
it off with green. But as the sled belonged to his little cousins, and
they were not there to see for themselves how beautiful he could
make it look, why, he must wait till they came; and then, very likely,
the paint would be gone.
Of course, Horace soiled his clothes sadly: "that was always just
like him," his Aunt Louise said.
This was not all: A little neighbor, Gilbert Brown, came to the
house at all hours, and between the two boys there was a noise of
driving nails, firing pop-guns, shouting and running from morning till
night.
They built a "shanty" of the boards which grandpa was saving
to mend the fence, and in this shanty they "kept store," trading in
crooked pins, home-made toys, twine and jack-knives.
"Master chaps, them children are," said Abner, the good-natured
hired man.
"Hard-working boys! They are as destructive as army worms,"
declared grandpa, frowning, with a twinkle in his eye.
Horace had a cannon about a foot long, which went on wheels,
with a box behind it, and a rammer lashed on at the side—not to
mention an American flag which floated over the whole.
With a stout string he drew his cannon up to the large oilnut
tree, and then with a real bayonet fixed to a wooden gun, he would
lie at full length under the shade, calling himself a sharpshooter
guarding the cannon. At these times woe to the "calico kitty," or
Grace, or anybody else who happened to go near him! for he gave
the order to "charge," and the charge was made most vigorously.
Upon the whole, it was decided that everybody would feel
easier and happier if Horace should go to school. This plan did not
please him at all, and he went with sulky looks and a very bad
grace.
His mother sighed; for though her little boy kept the letter of
the law, which says, "Children, obey your parents," he did not do it
in the spirit of the commandment, "Honor thy father and thy
mother."
In a thousand ways Mrs. Clifford was made unhappy by Horace,
who should have been a comfort to her. It was sad, indeed; for
never did a kind mother try harder to "train up a child" in the right
way.
It did not take Horace a great while to renew his acquaintance
with the schoolboys, who all seemed to look upon him as a sort of
curiosity.
"I never knew before," laughed little Dan Hideout, "that my
name was Dan-yell!"
"He calls a pail a bucket, and a dipper a tinkup," said Gilbert
Brown.
"Yes," chimed in Willy Snow, "and he asks 'Is school took up?'
just as if it was knitting-work that was on needles."
"How he rolls his r's!" said Peter Grant. "You can't say hor-r-se
the way he does! I'll bet the ain't a boy can do it unless it's a Cahoo-
jack." Peter meant Hoosier.
"Well, I wouldn't be seen saying hoss," returned Horace, with
some spirit; "that's Yankee."
"I guess the Yankees are as good as the Cahoo-jacks: wasn't
your mother a Yankee?"
"Yes," faltered Horace; "she was born up north here in the
Frigid Zone; but she isn't so much relation to me as my father is, for
her name wasn't Clifford. She wouldn't have been any relation to me
if she hadn't married my father!"
One or two of the larger boys laughed at this speech, and
Horace, who could never endure ridicule, stole quietly away.
"Now, boys, you behave," said Edward Snow, Willy's older
brother; "he's a smart little fellow, and it's mean to go to hurting his
feelings. Come back here, Spunky Clifford; let's have a game of hi
spy!"
Horace was "as silent as a stone."
"He don't like to be called Spunky Clifford," said Johnny Bell;
"do you, Horace?"
"The reason I don't like it," replied the boy, "is because it's not
my name."
"Well, then," said Edward Snow, winking—to the other boys,
"won't you play with us, Master Horace?"
"I'll not go back to be laughed at," replied he, stoutly: "when
I'm home I play with Hoosier boys, and they're politer than
Yankees."
"'Twas only those big boys," said Johnny Bell: "now they've
gone off. Come, let's play something."
"I should think you'd be willing for us to laugh," added honest
little Willy Snow; "we can't help it, you talk so funny. We don't mean
anything."
"Well," said Horace, quite restored to good humor, and speaking
with some dignity, "you may laugh at me one kind of a way, but if
you mean humph when you laugh, I won't stand it."
"Woon't stand it!" echoed Peter Grant; "ain't that Dutch?"
"Dutch?" replied Horace: "I'll show you what Dyche is! We have
a Dyche teacher come in our school every day, and he stamps his
foot and tears round! 'Sei ruhig,' he says: that means, 'hush your
mouth and keep still.'"
"Is he a Jew, and does he stay in a synagogue?"
"No, he is a German Luteran, or a Dutch Deformed, or
something that way."
"What do you learn in?" said Johnny Bell.
"Why, in little German readers: what else would they be?"
"Does it read like stories and verses?"
"I don't know. He keeps hitting the books with a little switch,
and screamin' out as if the house was afire."
"Come, say over some Dutch; woon't you, Horace?"
So the little boy repeated some German poetry, while his
schoolmates looked up at him in wonder and admiration. This was
just what Horace enjoyed; and he continued, with sparkling eyes,—
"I s'pose you can't any of you count in Dutch."
The boys confessed that they could not.
"It's just as easy," said Horace, telling over the numbers up to
twenty, as fast as he could speak.
"You can't any of you write Dutch; can you? You give me a slate
now, and I'll write it all over so you couldn't read a word of it."
"Ain't it very hard to make?" asked the boys in tones of
respectful astonishment.
"I reckon you'd think 'twas hard, it's so full of little quirls, but I
can write it as easy as English."
This was quite true, for Horace made very hard work of any
kind of writing.
It was not two days before he was at the head of that part of
the school known as "the small boys," both in study and play; yet
everybody liked him, for, as I have said before, the little fellow had
such a strong sense of justice, and such kindness of heart, that he
was always a favorite, in spite of his faults.
The boys all said there was nothing "mean" about Horace. He
would neither abuse a smaller child, nor see one abused. If he
thought a boy was doing wrong, he was not afraid to tell him so,
and you may be sure that he was all the more respected for his
moral courage.
Horace talked to his schoolmates a great deal about his father,
Captain Clifford, who was going to be a general some day.
"When I was home," said he, "I studied pa's book of tictacs, and
I used to drill the boys."
There was a loud cry of "Why can't you drill us? Come, let's us
have a company, and you be cap'n!"
Horace gladly consented, and the next Saturday afternoon a
meeting was appointed at the "Glen." When the time came, the boys
were all as joyful as so many squirrels suddenly let out of a cage.
"Now, look here, boys," said Horace, brushing back his "shingled
hair," and walking about the grove with the air of a lord. "First place,
if I'm going to be captain, you must mind; will you, say?"
Horace was not much of a public speaker; he threw words
together just as it happened; but there was so much meaning in the
twistings of his face, the jerkings of his head, and the twirlings of his
thumbs, that if you were looking at him you must know what he
meant.
"Ay, ay!" piped the little boys in chorus.
"Then I'll muster you in," said Horace grandly. "Has everybody
brought their guns?—I mean sticks, you know!"
"Ay, ay!"
"I want to be corporal," said Peter Grant.
"I'll be major," cried Willy Snow.
"There, you've spoke," shouted the captain. "I wish there was a
tub or bar'l to stand you on when you talk."
After some time an empty flour barrel was brought, and placed
upright under a tree, to serve as a dunce-block.
"Now we'll begin new," said the captain. "Those that want to be
mustered, rise up their hands; but don't you snap your fingers."
The caution came too late for some of the boys; but Horace
forgave the seeming disrespect, knowing that no harm was
intended.
"Now, boys, what are you fighting about?—Say, For our
country!"
"For our country!" shouted the soldiers, some in chorus, and
some in solo.
"And our flag," added Horace, as an afterthought.
"And our flag," repeated the boys, looking at the little banner of
stars and stripes, which was fastened to the stump of a tree, and
faintly fluttered in the breeze.
"Long may it wave!" cried Horace, growing enthusiastic, and
pointing backward to the flag with a sweep of his thumb.
"There ain't a 'Secesh' in this company; there ain't a man but
wants our battle to beat! If there is, we'll muster him out double-
quick."
A few caps were flourished in the air, and every mouth was set
firmly together as if it would shout scorn of secession if it dared
speak. It was a loyal company; there was no doubt of that. Indeed,
the captain was so bitter against the South that he had asked his
Aunt Madge if it was right to let southern-wood grow in the garden.
"Now," said Horace, "Forward! March! 'Ploy column!—No, form a
line first. 'Ten*tion*!"
A curved, uncertain line, not unlike the letter S, gradually
straightened itself, and the boys looked down to their feet as if they
expected to see a chalk-mark on the grass.
"Now, when I say, 'Right!' you must look at the buttons on my
jacket—or on yours, I've forgot which; on yours; I reckon. Right!
Right at 'em! Right at the buttons!"
Obedient to orders, every boy's head drooped in a moment.
"Stop!" said Horace, knitting his brows; "that's enough!" For
there seemed to be something wrong, he could not tell what.
"Now you may ''bout face;' that means whirl round. Now march!
one, two, quick time, double-quick!"
"They're stepping on my toes," cried bare-footed Peter Grant.
"Hush right up, private, or I'll stand you on the bar'l."
"I wish't you would," groaned little Peter; "it hurts."
"Well, then, I shan't," said the captain, decidedly, "for 'twouldn't
be any punishin'.—Can't some of you whistle?"
Willy Snow struck up Yankee Doodle, which soon charmed the
wayward feet of the little volunteers, and set them to marching in
good time.
Afterward their captain gave instructions in "groundin' arms,"
"stackin' arms," "firin'," and "countin' a march," by which he meant
"countermarching." He had really read a good many pages in
Infantry Tactics, and had treasured up the military phrases with
some care, though he had but a confused idea of their meaning.
"Holler-square!" said he, when he could think of nothing else to
say. Of course he meant a "hollow square."
"Shall we holler all together?" cried a voice from the midst of
the ranks.
The owner of the voice would have been "stood on the barrel,"
if Horace had been less busy thinking.
"I've forgot how they holler, as true as you live; but I reckon it's
all together, and open your mouths wide."
At this the young volunteers, nothing loath, gave a long,
deafening shout, which the woods caught up and echoed.
Horace scratched his head. He had seen his father drill his men,
but he could not remember that he had ever heard them scream.
A pitched battle came off next, which would have been a very
peaceful one if all the boys had not wanted to be Northerners. But
the feeling was greatly changed when Horace joined the Southern
ranks, saying "he didn't care how much he played Secesh when
everybody knew he was a good Union man, and his father was going
to be a general." After this there was no trouble about raising
volunteers on the rebel side.
The whole affair ended very pleasantly, only there was some
slashing right and left with a few bits of broken glass, which were
used as swords; and several mothers had wounds to dress that
night.
Mrs. Clifford heard no complaint from her little son, although his
fingers were quite ragged, and must have been painful. Horace was
really a brave boy, and always bore suffering like a hero. More than
that, he had the satisfaction of using the drops of blood for red
paint; and the first thing after supper he made a wooden sword and
gun, and dashed them with red streaks.
CHAPTER VI
SUSIE AND PRUDY
The Clifford children were very anxious to see Susie and Prudy, and
it seemed a long while to wait; but the Portland schools had a
vacation at last, and then it was time to expect the little cousins.
The whole family were impatient to see them and their excellent
mother. Grandma lost her spectacles very often that afternoon, and
every time she went to the window to look out, the ball of her
knitting-work followed her, as Grace said, "like a little kitten."
There was great joy when the stage really drove up to the door.
The cousins were rather shy of each other at first, and Prudy hid her
face, all glowing with smiles and blushes, in her plump little hands.
But the stiffness wore away, and they were all as well acquainted as
ever they had been, in about ten minutes.
"Ain't that a bumpin' stage, though?" cried Horace; "just like a
baby-jumper."
"We came in it, you know, Susie," said Grace; "didn't it shake
like a corn-popper?"
"I want to go and see the piggy and ducks," said Prudy.
"Well," whispered Susie, "wait till after supper."
The Cliffords were delighted with their little cousins. When they
had last seen Prudy, which was the summer before, they had loved
her dearly. Now she was past five, and "a good deal cunninger than
ever;" or so Horace thought. He liked her pretty face, her gentle
ways, and said very often if he had such a little sister he'd "go a-
dyin'."
To be sure Susie was just his age, and could run almost as fast
as he could; still Horace did not fancy her half as much as Prudy,
who could not run much without falling down, and who was always
sure to cry if she got hurt.
Grace and Susie were glad that Horace liked Prudy so well, for
when they were cutting out dolls' dresses, or playing with company,
it was pleasant to have him take her out of the way.
Prudy's mouth was not much larger than a button-hole, but she
opened it as wide as she could when she saw Horace whittle out
such wonderful toys.
He tried to be as much as possible like a man; so he worked
with his jacket off, whistling all the while; and when he pounded, he
drew in his breath with a whizzing noise, such as he had heard
carpenters make.
All this was very droll to little Prudy, who had no brothers, and
supposed her "captain cousin" must be a very remarkable boy,
especially as he told her that, if he hadn't left his tool-box out West,
he could have done "a heap better." It was quite funny to see her
standing over him with such a happy, wondering little face,
sometimes singing snatches of little songs, which were sure to be
wrong somewhere, such as,—
She thought, as Horace did, that her sled would look very well
"crossed off with green;" but Susie would not consent. So Horace
made a doll's sled out of shingles, with turned-up runners, and a
tongue of string. This toy pleased Prudy, and no one had a right to
say it should not be painted green.
But as Captain Horace was just preparing to add this finishing
touch, a lady arrived with little twin-boys, four years old. Aunt
Madge came into the shed to call Horace and Prudy. "O, auntie,"
said Horace, "I don't believe I care to play with those little persons!"
His aunt smiled at hearing children called "little persons," but
told Horace it would not be polite to neglect his young visitors; it
would be positively rude. Horace did not wish to be considered an ill-
mannered boy, and at last consented to have his hands and
garments cleansed with turpentine to erase the paint, and to go into
the nursery to see the "little persons."
It seemed to him and Prudy that the visit lasted a great while,
and that it was exceedingly hard work to be polite.
When it was well over, Prudy said, "The next lady that comes
here, I hope she won't bring any little double boys! What do I love
little boys for, 'thout they're my cousins?"
After the sled was carefully dried Horace printed on it the words
"Lady Jane," in large yellow letters. His friend Gilbert found the paint
for this, and it was thought by both the boys that the sled could not