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 In both of the above examples the dealer, holding nine cards of a
suit in the combined hands, hopes to catch the queen by leading the
ace and king. Blocking in these cases can be avoided by retaining
the lowest card in the dummy hand.
When you hold but one re-entry card, be careful not to take a
finesse, which will block your suit.
 In the above examples dummy is supposed to hold one re-entry
card in another suit. Should the dealer make an unsuccessful
finesse, the adversary will at once take out the re-entry card, and
the suit, being blocked, cannot be made.

OVERTAKING
It not infrequently happens on the initial opening of a hand that
you have the option of winning the trick either in your own hand or
in dummy; if you find that your cards of the suit led are all of equal
value it is essential that you consider the advisability of overtaking a
trick that you have already won.
With no re-entry in a hand, overtaking is often the only means of
making a suit.
 In the above examples, if the dealer holds no re-entry card, he
must overtake one of dummy’s high cards in order to make the suit.
The adversary will often attempt to block the dealer’s lead by
holding up the winning card until one of the dealer’s hands is
exhausted in the suit. Whenever this is the apparent object of the
adversary, you can still continue and establish your suit by
overtaking the last card from the shorter hand.
 In the above examples, if the dealer holds but one re-entry card
he must overtake the second lead. Otherwise, if the adversary holds
up the ace, the dealer must use his re-entry card to establish the
suit, which he can then never make.
 Overtaking is not confined to the dealer’s play, and it is much
more difficult for the adversaries to determine when to resort to this
strategy. As a rule, when the dealer is apparently holding up the
winning card, and when the cards of your suit are of equal value, it
is safer to overtake your partner’s card than to risk his being unable
to continue the lead.

“DUCKING”
When a hand contains no re-entry card, the successful play of
the long suit may depend on a refusal to win the first trick; at times
both the first and second tricks in the suit must be passed.
When you wish to make a long suit in a hand containing no re-
entry card, do not play the commanding card of the suit until you
are reasonably sure that the remainder of the cards will fall. Use
care not to exhaust the shorter of the two hands before the suit is
established.
The situation is more clearly shown by the following examples:

The dealer should refuse to win the first round of the suit. With
no card of re-entry, should he lead the ace and king, the command
would be left with the adversaries and the suit would not be made.
 The dealer must allow the adversaries to win the first and second
tricks; otherwise the suit cannot be made.

The dealer should lead the queen toward the ace, but should the
second in hand adversary cover with the king the dealer must pass
the trick; otherwise the third round will be blocked by the nine or
ten.
 The dealer should pass the first trick and not attempt the queen
finesse until the second round. One trick, it is true, may be lost, but
the play may win four tricks.
One or two leads of a suit may show a distribution of the cards
which must give the adversary one trick. When this is the case, be
careful to lose that trick while you have still another card of the suit
to lead to the opposite hand.

NONE

The dealer finds at the first lead that the second in hand
adversary has no card of the suit. The jack is, therefore, three times
protected in the opposite hand and the dealer should pass the first
trick.
With nine cards of a suit in the combined hands headed by ace
and king, all the remaining cards will probably fall on two leads, but
when the suit is divided, six and three, with no card of re-entry in
the long hand, it is safer to make sure of five tricks by passing the
first round.

Even when there is a re-entry card in the hand containing the

long suit, if the adversaries must make a trick in the suit it is better
play to lose the first trick. The re-entry may be an important card to
retain.
When you hold a guarded honour in the suit led originally, or
with a once-guarded king in an unopened suit, place the lead so that
these honours will be lead up to. This can often be done by
“ducking” or passing a trick.
 “OVERTAKING AND UNBLOCKING”
The double necessity arises only on rare occasions. When the
dummy contains no re-entry and the adversary opens a suit in which
dummy has length, arrange the play of your own cards so as not to
block the dummy’s suit.

Should the first trick be won with the eight, the dealer cannot
overtake the ten without loss. The ten should, therefore, be played
and the lead continued with the queen. If the adversary covers, the
trick must be passed. The eight should then be led through the jack.

“OVERTAKING AND DUCKING”

Occasionally the initial opening will prove to be the dummy’s long
suit. To make this suit without a card of re-entry in dummy it may be
necessary for the dealer not only to overtake dummy’s trick in order
to lead the suit through the original leader’s hand, but also to allow
the adversary to win the second trick, if an attempt is made to force
dummy’s high card.
 The dealer should in both cases overtake dummy’s trick in order
to continue the lead from the weaker hand. The original leader will
probably attempt, by playing a high card, to force the ace; in which
case the dealer must pass the second trick. The dummy will then
hold a tenace over the remaining honour, and the dealer can make
four tricks in the suit.

THE DEFENCE AGAINST OVERTAKING AND

“DUCKING”
When you open a suit and find that it is dummy’s strength do not
attempt to win the second trick if the dealer leads through your
hand, that is, unless you can mark the dealer with no other card of
the suit to lead; by taking the third round instead, you will often
save a trick or two.

NONE

In this case the dealer takes the first trick with the jack and leads
the queen. No attempt should be made to cover the card. In this
way the dealer is forced to win the third round and dummy’s suit is
blocked.
 CARD STRATEGY
When players have largely grasped the fundamentals of bridge
they are frequently filled with complaisance and self-satisfaction that
is gratifyingly reassuring to them, but that does not tend to improve
their game.
Each hand played, wherein they feel that they have committed
no blunders, brings a sense of contentment; but, unfortunately, they
overlook the tricks which they may have lost by the lack of a little
card strategy.
These are the tricks, which won, decide rubbers. There is always
trouble for the player who is looking only for “what he deserves,”
and complacently assists the strategy of his opponents by not
meeting it with an equal display of skill in attack, or shrewdness in
defense.
Good players are frequently likely to be deceived by holding up
small cards, though as a matter of fact novices never appear to be
fooled by such tactics; play a high card like a King or a Queen,
however, and the poor player is decidedly apt to be frightened away
from the play of his own suit.
To whomsoever it falls to play the dummy hand there is
abundant opportunity to baffle, mislead and confuse the opponents,
and still be playing strictly within the etiquette and the admitted
possibilities of bridge. In fact it is only just to one’s partner to
exercise one’s best endeavor and employ one’s brightest wits to
bring about a brilliant finish.
A little of the combative disposition is a valuable adjunct to good
bridge play. Combine that with clever strategy and a most
commendable desire to send your adversaries on innumerable wild-
goose chases, and there will be no further playing merely for “what
the hand deserves.”
Pitfalls in the form of false leads, false carding and clever
underplay should be dug for your adversaries at every opportunity.
Whenever they can do the same thing, the adversaries will not
scruple to place them for you.
There are hands in bridge which may be said to play themselves.
One holding all the winning cards could scarcely be expected to lose.
That, however, is purely primary. As the player himself recognizes, it
is something that could scarcely have been avoided. On the other
hand, when some well-planned ruse has found the opposition with
no sentries posted, and their camp is thrown into confusion by the
clever capture of a trick or two which they never had dreamed it
possible to lose, you may feel the elation that is a part of bridge
when the game is played to the full measure of its theory.
Frequently a hand is picked up at the bridge table which on its
face may be read as hopeless, unless, by some means, the
adversaries can be induced to blunder. Never exercise charity in a
case of that kind. Make it a point to tempt them not only to blunder
once, but again and yet again. It is surely far more strategic for a
weak hand to take a strong hand prisoner than it is for the strong
hand to capture the weak hand.
Subjoined are a few “ifs” that are well to be remembered, for all
too frequently the situation arises where one of them may become
most effective if you have retained its significance in your memory.
If you find that in some suit a certain number of tricks will go to
your adversaries, and that to lead from your best suit is
disadvantageous, throw the lead and see what will happen.
If you wish to make four tricks in a suit with but three in sight,
give the adversaries a chance to discard a card or two before you
show your strength.
If you are anxious to know which of your adversaries holds the
Queen of the suit in which you hold the Ace, King, Jack, force a
discard and see how kind they will be to you. If no discard can be
forced, then give the adversaries the lead and let the suit come up
to you.
If you are reasonably certain of winning all the tricks but one,
lead out your remaining trumps. You cannot lose and, if your
adversaries are uncertain about their discard, the extra trick may be
gained.
If you hold the Queen and two small cards of a suit, with small
cards of the same suit in dummy and the adversary opens with the
King, keep your lowest card. The leader may be tempted to believe
that his partner is echoing, and he will establish your Queen by
leading the Ace. Do not attempt this play however if you hold length
in the suit.
If the King is led and you have length as well as strength in the
suit, play your highest card on the King, for if the adversary
continues with the Ace, the younger hand will probably ruff the third
round and you should therefore endeavor to frighten your opponents
from the suit.
If a suit is led and the card played by the younger hand is not
higher than the ten, do not win the first trick with the Ace holding
Ace, King, Queen. The elder hand cannot have King, Queen, Jack,
and taking the first trick with the Ace would clearly show the
situation.
If you hold a singleton King lead the suit from dummy at the first
opportunity, being careful to select as a card to lead a ten or a nine.
This gives the impression that you intend to finesse. You may tempt
the adversary, with the Ace second in hand, to pass the trick,
whereas were a small card led he would probably make no such
mistake.
If you hold a small card as a singleton with King and Jack, or
King and others in dummy, do not wait until your adversary can
count your hand, but lead your singleton early in the hand and do
not finesse.
 If you want high cards to fall, lead high cards. It is astounding
how difficult one finds it not to cover an honor led. With this in
mind, with a singleton Ace in your hand, and a sequence in dummy
from the Queen to the nine, the adversaries will make no mistake if
a low card is led, while the Queen is a temptress that few can resist.
If you hold ten cards of suit in your hand and that of the dummy
with the Ace and King both against you, no doubt you will lose two
tricks in the suit; but when you do lead it lead your highest card.
You may tempt your second hand adversary to cover and the other
honor may fall.
If you have nine or more cards in your hand and that of the
dummy headed by Ace and King, it is usually unwise to finesse; but
it is always good play to lead the Jack towards the high card in the
opposite hand as it may tempt your adversary to cover.
If the adversary, after seeing dummy, lead through a King Jack
suit he probably has no high cards in the suit. To play the King can
do but little harm, and, if he has the Ace, you may shut it out.
If you have Queen, ten and one small in dummy, and Ace, nine,
small in your own hand, lead the small card. If the King is not put up
second in hand, play the ten; if the Jack wins the trick the King is
probably in the same player’s hand, and you must get the lead in
dummy to come through this hand. Without the ten in either hand
pass the first trick and make no effort to win with your Queen. This
may be your only hope to get two tricks in the suit.
If you have the Ace, King, small in your hand and Jack and two
small in dummy, the discard may show that your left hand adversary
holds the Queen protected. To steal a trick here, you must play the
Ace and underplay with the hope that this player will mark the King
in his partner’s hand and not play high.
If at “No Trump” a high card is led against you originally, and you
have length in that suit, hold up the lowest card to make the
adversary think his partner is unblocking.
 If at a loss what suit to play for at “No-Trump” choose the one
that is shown in dummy, so that the adversaries may not discover
the weakness or strength of your own hand.
If at “No-Trump” you are playing a poor hand with little or no
hope of winning, or even perhaps of saving the game, try leading
the suit that is all against you. Often the adversaries will hold
imaginary tenace over your cards and come “banging up” to your
strong suit. The collision will be more disastrous to them than you.
If you must lose the lead at “No-Trump,” conceal the strength in
your own hand and do not jump around and show strength in three
suits, for then when you do lose the lead the adversaries cannot
make a mistake as to their own strong suit.
If your adversary’s lead at “No-Trump” is a Jack and you have
Ace, King, Queen in your hand, take the first trick with the Queen.
Never win with the King. Many players lead the Jack from King, Jack,
ten or Ace, Jack, ten.
If a Queen is led at “No-Trump” and you hold both the Ace and
King, do not win the first trick with the Ace. The Queen lead
sometimes indicates the Ace and Jack, and you may mislead an
adversary by playing the King, whereas the Ace would clearly show
the situation.
If you are playing “No-Trump” do not blank the Ace in dummy
unless you want this suit led to you. Keeping a small card with the
Ace may lead the adversaries to believe that you have a high card in
your own hand and they may hesitate to lead the suit.
Another point that it is well to emphasize is in regard to being
forced to lead disadvantageously from a suit. Be very careful in a
case of that kind not to break a possible tenace by leading a high
card. For instance with Ace, ten and two small in your hand and Jack
and two small in dummy, you are forced to lead the suit from your
own hand. Play the small card. Often the adversary makes the
mistake of playing a high card second in hand, giving you, perhaps,
a tenace over your right hand opponent.
 Too much haste in showing ability to ruff by your weak hand
frequently brings disaster. In fact a trump lead from you will
discourage the trump attack by the adversaries, and they are only
too likely to give you the ruff without defining your purpose.
Inference frequently will come to you from the cards held in the
combined hands as to what suit will probably be led by the
adversaries, but do not expose your weakness by discarding from
this suit.
Last, but one of the most important facts of all, decide which of
your cards you mean to play before fingering them. Indecision may
tell your adversaries exactly what they are most eager to know.
Bear in mind that these suggestions are advanced to try to
impress all players with the fact that there may be much more in the
hand than it seems to deserve, and that “much more” is the real test
of skillful bridge. It is a far greater source of enjoyment than
lackadaisically wading through deal after deal, stirring only the
surface of the shallow water and not venturing into those more
fascinating depths where the secrets of bridge await those who will
try for them.
 LOST TRICKS
One development of bridge, seldom touched upon, has to do
entirely with what may be designated the “lost tricks.”
Hands that play themselves are, to an extent, colorless and
featureless accessories of the game; but the “lost tricks” are the
“might have beens” of bridge that rankle in the memory long after
the rubber is finished.
They are usually found in hands that require a thorough
understanding of the score, good judgment and keen perception,
and are lost many times because of a lack of understanding between
partners.
There can be nothing more trying to one’s finest nervous sense
than to play with a partner in whom one has little confidence, who
makes each situation as difficult as possible, gives no correct
information as to his own hand by the play of the cards, nor seeks to
take advantage of the information correctly given by his partner.
There is one essential to bridge which must never be overlooked,
nor can its importance be too strongly impressed upon all players,
and that is, that to play the game well involves the closest kind of a
business partnership in which implicit confidence must exist. Evil
effects attendant upon deceit cannot be too highly overestimated,
nor can such play be too severely condemned, if your aim is to
attain, as nearly as possible, the standard of perfection.
All players must understand that rules are but the mere
convention of the game, holding it to certain conformity, that, it is
evident, is necessary for its preservation and the perfect enjoyment
of its enthusiastic devotees. Certain rules, that govern the
technicalities, are absolute, as they are in any game of cards, but
rules in general are not the masters of bridge; rather should they be
considered as second to circumstance and the fall of the cards.
Brilliant plays are made in contravention to rules, yet we would not
attempt to deduce from that fact the theory that rules are not
essential to the game.
There are those disaffected individuals who rail at everything. To
them rules are bogey men; conventions are pitfalls. They scoff at
partners who play as such, and argue weakly for disconcerted play
in which one puts down a card, his partner another, and for all the
information that either conveys to the other a pinch of snuff would
be generous recompense. You might as well take a chance on a card
of any denomination or of any suit, as to try to adhere to a union of
forces with such a school of philosophy to guide you.
Do not be influenced by theories somewhat wildly and illogically
advanced by players thus minded. Time and experience will
assuredly teach you that heresies fail in bridge, as they fail in other
subjects where cool, philosophical reasoning will lead to a sane and
intelligent understanding.
Never forget that the dealer is in the possession of the strength
of twenty-six cards all the time. If you, with half that force, play at
random, and your partner, with no more numerical strength than you
possess, is also playing a fourth of the game on his individual
account, with no particular interest in what is being done with the
other three-fourths of the fifty-two cards, it is surely not common
sense to imagine that you and your partner are likely to be
superlatively blessed with success.
United play in bridge is absolutely essential to success. This has
been demonstrated from the inception of the game, and those who
are most mindful of this fact are those who see fewer ghosts of “lost
tricks” stalking dejectedly about as they recall the hands of the past.
Occasions do arise however when you may deceive the dealer
and not your partner. If you wish the dealer to finesse, it will often
pay to play a high card second in hand, holding a small one. For
instance, with King, Jack, nine, four and three in dummy, the dealer
leads the Ace and then a small card. By playing the ten from the ten,
five, deuce on the second round of the suit you may lead the dealer
to believe that you hold the Queen or no other card in the suit, and
this may tempt him to finesse.
When Ace and Queen are in dummy over your once guarded
King, you will probably be led through and your King be captured. It
will pay you at times, especially if the card next to the King is a nine
or ten, to lead the suit in the hope that the dealer will play the Ace
second in hand and that he will infer from your lead that the King is
in your partner’s hand.
Should you and your partner hold all the remaining cards in a
suit, do not hesitate to play or discard a card of the suit so as to
mislead the dealer and make it difficult for him to count your own
and your partner’s hand.
To enumerate the many situations wherein tricks are lost and
where partners go astray would need a keen observer and a pencil
and pad at almost every rubber that is played.
It is usually accepted that a short suit is led for the purpose of
establishing a ruff. Very good. Yet players are often met who
complain about being forced after showing a desire to ruff. Then
avoid giving the invitation. Your partner can only read it as you
played to him and followed out your own suggestion as he felt in
duty bound to do.
It is not invariably necessary that you open a short suit and play
for a ruff. It does seem to be a common impulse. There appears to
exist a desire on the part of most who play bridge to do something
with trumps, and players are always eager to begin their
employment, hoping to see Aces and Kings go by the board. Your
short suit lead may establish that suit for your opponent, and bring
disaster through an effort to make a small trump trick; while, on the
other hand, the lead of your long suit may force and so weaken the
dealer’s trump hand as to make it impossible for him to take out the
trumps against him.
 Tricks are lost by players not showing the correct numerical
strength of their long suit. A player who leads the deuce from a six
card suit assuredly would not have done so had he confidence in the
ability of his partner to read or count his hand.
Frequently the under card of a sequence is led, or the highest
card of a sequence is played second or third in hand, and repeatedly
that has cost a trick or two because it conveyed misinformation.
One who continually leads the top of long, weak suits against a
declared trump, gives misinformation and often leads his partner to
believe that he is opening a short suit, and frequently a trick or two
is lost by the dealer obtaining discards.
The player who continually refuses to part with the best trump
should bear in mind that ruffing with the commanding trump rarely
loses a trick, and often gains one.
Remember that the partner who doubles usually has trump
strength, and so do not strew his pathway with obstructions by
forcing him when it is most fatal to his chances.
There is one type of partner who is particularly trying. He is that
persistent individual who, having acquired the notion of establishing
his long suit at “No-Trump” keeps at it with a bland faith that would
be amusing were it not so vexing. With little or no chance of ever
getting in, he sacrifices the only hope of saving the game by
refusing to switch off and see what his partner has got.
Think, too, how your partner must feel when marked with a card
of your established suit, and in the lead, he witnesses a discard on
your part of one of your good suit, and is met with the feeble
apology that you had a “King or Queen to protect.”
It is a maxim in bridge that the weaker hand should always
consider itself subordinate to the stronger, ready to sacrifice the high
card holding so that it will be a gain to the partner in the end.
How selfishly and at what cost partners will decline to unblock
because it appears to them to mean the sacrifice of too high a card.
Too long they cling to their Queens and their Kings only to see the
great army of “lost tricks” obtain fresh recruits because they would
not, or could not, read what their partners were vainly trying to
publish before them.
Another rather cool invitation and one bound to be fraught with
disastrous results is when you request your partner to play for a suit
in which you have neither length nor strength. It would be just as
logical to ask him to play for cards in your adversaries’ hands.
It is always good practice in bridge not to attempt to play for too
much. To bring in two suits is, of course, a very delightful sensation,
but it is a great deal better to confine your efforts to bring in one
sure suit than to attempt two with the result of getting neither. Bear
in mind that when one is a bit greedy, “lost tricks” are likely to foot
up rapidly.
Before the subject of “lost tricks” is abandoned it is well to call
attention to what may be sacrificed by bad makes. Players
overanxious to win will attempt declarations which they know to be
unsound, being influenced by a speculative impulse rather than by
sound judgment.
Countless rubbers are lost—not tricks, but rubbers—because
players do not know the score and, because they lack that
information, are not playing with an intelligent idea as to how many
tricks are absolutely essential to save the game.
In conclusion bear this in mind for it is a justifiable loss of a trick:
Do not hesitate to lose when the only chance is to find in your
partner’s hand the card that will save the game; you may be
astonished to ascertain how often this will happen during the
ordinary course of play.
Play so to perfect your whole game as to take care of the “lost
tricks.” The winning tricks, it will quickly be discovered, take care of
themselves.
 “YOUR PARTNER.”
HIS IDIOSYNCRASIES, AND SOME OF YOURS

All games of cards, even the simplest—those that require but

little thought or mental analysis—afford an excellent field for the
study of human nature.
Players frequently permit little mannerisms and idiosyncrasies to
intrude, and, if not corrected at the start, the habit is likely to grow.
For the most part such offenses are, of themselves, but trivial
breaches, as it were, of the etiquette of the card-table; but at times
they are intensely irritating and the cause of some displeasure that
finds relief in word or action, both of which may quite seriously
disrupt bridge harmony.
When a rubber of bridge is in contemplation and after the
preliminaries you sit down to play, it is just possible that “your
partner” may have his ideas about the game. If you have omitted to
ascertain in advance what they are, it will help neither of you in the
least if you immediately begin to differ as to leads, discards and
signals. Your game will strongly resemble a tug-of-war—both at
opposite ends of the rope, instead of at one end pulling conjointly.
It is an invariable custom that the player who cuts the lowest
card has the choice of seats and the cards. If “your partner” objects
to moving do not advise that he would better change. Very likely his
reasons why he should not are quite as urgent as any that you can
advance to the contrary, and why interject at the start anything that
shall tend to create a slight element of discord.
If you ask “your partner” for advice rest assured of criticism
during the remainder of play, whether it be for a rubber or for an
evening. It is one thing to consult, quite another to request. The
moment that you show subserviency you admit superiority, and
there are those who play bridge, and some with little experience or
knowledge, who as critics, in their own estimation, are par
excellence. Better agree with “your partner” at the start on the
common principles that are essential to be observed, and then play
with an eloquent silence that will command respect and admiration
at the table.
If you pass the make with a weak hand and your partner
declares “No-Trumps,” look as cheerful as possible, and make up
your mind to do the best that you can with the cards that have been
given to you. If you begin by abusing your partner for the make, you
practically say that your hand is weak and that the situation is
hopeless. That is most valuable information for your adversaries.
Some times “your partner,” sitting behind the dummy hand, has a
queer way of waking up just as you are leading a thirteenth card
from his hand, and asking you whether you have a card of the suit
led, thus distracting your thoughts from the selection of a proper
discard.
The partner behind the silent hand, to hasten the play, has no
right to touch or suggest the use of a single card from those which
lie exposed before him, yet often players find the impulse to push
out a card from dummy almost irresistible.
Haste and waste are antitypes in bridge as they are in
everything. Playing the hand as if you are in a hurry to catch a train
may lend a spectacular appearance to your disposition of the cards,
but many a rubber is lost by not stopping to give the situation the
careful thought that it demands.
The occupant of the “high chair” usually has a monopoly of
giving advice. That kindly and courteous soul who can see it all—and
who may know it all, or imagine he does, which amounts to the
same thing in this particular case—and who sees no hand played
without voicing personal ideas as to the methods used, is a well-
meaning adjunct to the game, even if occasionally distressing.
When a player spreads out all the cards of an abandoned spade
hand, scrutinizes each with an air of anxious concern, and
conjectures as to what might have happened had some other
declaration been attempted, it tries everybody at the table. What is
done with a hand cannot be undone. All time at bridge should be
devoted earnestly to what confronts a player, not to what is of the
past.
A penalty of some kind should be exacted from the player who
makes a practice of insisting that the dealer has led from the wrong
hand. It is very disconcerting and frequently disturbs the one
criticized to such an extent as to interrupt the train of thought for
the subsequent lead.
Post mortems have their interest and are unmistakably
convincing as a rule. Don’t venture upon them unless you are certain
what the scalpel is going to reveal, and above all things when the
corpse is buried don’t continue to talk of the harassing details with
another hand awaiting play.
Be careful how you criticize in all cases. It is not an invariable
rule that he who points out the first mistake had the best reason for
doing so. How about a blunder that may have been committed
earlier by the critic himself, and the possible embarrassment that
may follow if a complete analysis of all the cards played is insisted
upon.
There are personalities in bridge that can be avoided in addition
to arguments with “your partner” or public criticism of his play. The
actual time saved in “claiming all the rest” will not shorten the game
by two minutes. Better play all the cards out and save yourself the
possible mortification of having it placed in evidence that you had
not read your hand, that of “your partner” and those of your
adversaries, as intelligibly as you had imagined.
 Bridge knowledge is not acquired in a moment. Some persons
are naturally better players than others. Intuition is an aid to some,
the ability to forecast assists others, but both are powerless without
a thorough grasp of all the details that are accessory to the game.
In connection with this subject it may not be out of place to
observe that while the object of the game is to take tricks, the same
number can be made in a great many different ways. That you did
not happen to lose on a hand is no palliation for the very bad play of
which you may have been guilty. Always bear in mind the fact that
there is a right way and a wrong way to play, and that the
acquirement of playing by the right method should be the purpose
of all who devote their time to the game.
Play bridge as if a genuine pleasure, whether winner or loser, and
eventually you will discover that it is far easier to win in that spirit
than it was with the critical idea predominating; and, if you do lose,
it is with the consciousness of good will toward your fellow man,
who happens, in this case, to be “your partner.”
Endeavor to be serene under all circumstances. Keep in mind
that it is a pastime for sound mental training. Never forget that a
cool head is a most valuable essential, and try just as far as possible
to sink all peccadilloes in play, avoid all whimsicalities and correct all
personal mannerisms.
 ILLUSTRATIVE HANDS
The following hands are illustrative of the principles discussed in
the previous chapters, and while, to the experienced players, some
of the points will appear simple, the hands all show interesting
situations which merit careful study from those who wish to improve
their Bridge play.
All the hands have been taken from actual play and show by no
means unusual situations. The writer has endeavoured to eliminate
freakish distributions of cards and unsound play.
Play each illustration as though but one hand were exposed,
without previous reference to the notes.
In each case Z is the dealer and A the leader.

Transcriber’s Note:

In each of the TRICK tables, the underlined card indicates the card which won the
trick.

ILLUSTRATIVE HAND NO. 1

Many players would be tempted to declare “no-trumps” with this
hand, but the declaration of hearts is sound. No risks should be
taken with a strong heart make when one weak suit is held.
Trick 1.—There are two lines of play that could be adopted by the
dealer in this hand, one to exhaust the trumps and try for the spade
suit, the other to try to establish a ruff in the weaker hand. The
former course is preferable. As Z holds but one trump, the
adversaries would probably prevent the ruff. To make the spade suit
an entry card may be necessary. Y takes the lead, in order to save
Z’s entry card.
Trick 8.—This position will be appreciated by all students of the
game. Z has three good spades and the commanding diamond, Y
the losing trump and the ace of clubs. Should Y now lead a diamond
and take Z’s re-entry card, the adversaries’ trump would stop the
suit. Leading the losing trump is a clever play.
SAVING AN ENTRY CARD.
LEADING THE LOSING TRUMP.
It is the first game, score sixteen to nothing, in favor of the
dealer. Z deals and passes the make. Y declares hearts.

No. 1
♠9
♣A653
♦A42
♥AKQ75
♠J65 ♠ K 10 8
♣742 ♣ K Q J 10
♦ Q 10 8 6 ♦J9
♥932 ♥ J 10 8 4
♠AQ7432
♣98
♦K753
♥6

TRICK A Y B Z
1 6♦ A♦ 9♦ 3♦
2 2♥ K♥ 4♥ 6♥
3 3♥ Q♥ 8♥ 5♦
4 9♥ A♥ 10♥ 8♣
 5 5♠ 9♠ 10♠ Q♠
6 6♠ 2♦ 8♠ A♠
7 J♠ 5♥ K♠ 2♠
8 2♣ 7♥ J♥ 7♦
9 4♣ A♣ K♣ 9♣
10 8♦ 4♦ J♦ K♦
11 7♣ 3♣ 10♣ 7♠
12 10♦ 5♣ J♣ 4♠
13 Q♦ 6♣ Q♣ 3♠
The dealer makes a small slam.

ILLUSTRATIVE HAND NO. 2

Trick 2.—This situation demands careful attention. If the diamond
is led from Y’s hand for Z to trump, the adversaries must obtain the
lead at the next trick, and would promptly lead trumps to prevent
any further ruffing. Z can estimate that he has but five sure tricks in
the two hands, three trump tricks, the diamond trick, the ruff, and
the possibility of making a trick with the king of clubs. This, however,
would give the adversaries the game and the rubber. To win the
game, two ruffs must be obtained and Z cannot afford to make the
situation clear to his opponents. He leads the seven of clubs from Y’s
hand in order to establish the cross-ruff.
It is this form of strategy that wins games and rubbers for the
clever player. Z takes the one chance to win the game.
Trick 3.—B’s best play is unquestionably the trump. He has both
the spade and the club suit protected, his partner is marked with
strength in diamonds, and he can lead trumps with safety, but not
knowing that the weak hand can ruff, he returns his partner’s
original lead.
Trick 7.—A can stop the cross-ruff by trumping with the king of
hearts, but this play would not afford him any advantage, as Y would
discard a losing spade, and Z may not have another trump.
 Trick 8.—There is no reason for B to trump. To discard is his best
play.
NOT SHOWING ADVERSARIES THAT
THE WEAK HAND CAN “RUFF.”
It is the rubber game, score twenty-four all. Z deals and passes
the make. Y declares hearts.
No. 2
♠965
♣7
♦A532
♥ Q J 10 5 4
♠KQ ♠ A 10 8 7
♣ 10 8 6 ♣AQ52
♦KQJ96 ♦ 10 8 7
♥AK3 ♥72
♠J432
♣KJ943
♦4
♥986

TRICK A Y B Z
1 K♦ A♦ 7♦ 4♦
2 6♣ 7♣ A♣ 3♣
3 6♦ 2♦ 10♦ 6♥
4 8♣ 5♠ 2♣ K♣
5 10♣ 4♥ 5♣ 4♣
6 9♦ 3♦ 8♦ 9♥
7 Q♦ 5♥ Q♣ 9♣
8 J♦ 5♦ 7♠ 8♥
9 Q♠ 6♠ 2♥ J♣
10 K♥ 10♥ 7♥ 2♠
 11 K♠ 9♠ 8♠ 3♠
12 A♥ J♥ 10♠ 4♠
13 3♥ Q♥ A♠ J♠
The dealer wins two odd tricks.

ILLUSTRATIVE HAND NO. 3

Trick 4.—When the commanding trump is against you, the best
play is usually to force your adversary to “ruff” with it, but if you
hold an established suit in one hand, it often pays to take out the
winning trump. Your long suit can then be continued without
interruption.
LEADING THE LOSING TRUMP
It is the first game, score love all. Z deals and makes it hearts.
No. 3
♠542
♣AQJ863
♦75
♥95
♠AKQ8763 ♠ J 10 9
♣ 10 5 4 ♣97
♦K ♦ Q J 10 9 8
♥J3 ♥Q82
♠ ——
♣K2
♦A6432
♥ A K 10 7 6 4

TRICK A Y B Z
1 K♠ 2♠ 9♠ 4♥
2 3♥ 5♥ 2♥ A♥
 3 J♥ 9♥ 8♥ K♥
4 3♠ 4♠ Q♥ 6♥
5 K♦ 5♦ Q♦ A♦
6 4♣ 3♣ 7♣ K♣
7 5♣ A♣ 9♣ 2♣
8 10♣ Q♣ 10♠ 2♦
9 6♠ J♣ J♠ 3♦
10 7♠ 8♣ 8♦ 4♦
11 8♠ 6♣ 9♦ 6♦
12 Q♠ 7♦ 10♦ 7♥
13 A♠ 5♠ J♦ 10♥
The dealer makes a small slam.

ILLUSTRATIVE HAND NO. 4

Trick 1.—To win the game the king of hearts must be in B’s hand
and the lead must be arranged so that Y can lead the jack of hearts
toward the ace queen. To make an entry card in Y’s hand, Z throws
his king of diamonds on the ace.
Trick 2.—A would like to change the suit, but, undoubtedly, the
diamond is his best lead.
ARRANGING THE LEAD
It is the rubber game, score eight to twenty-four against the
dealer. Z, the dealer, declares Hearts.
No. 4
♠9864
♣9864
♦Q4
♥J54
 ♠K5 ♠ A Q J 10 7
♣ 10 3 2 ♣A7
♦A98763 ♦ J 10 5
♥86 ♥K92
♠32
♣KQJ5
♦K2
♥ A Q 10 7 3

TRICK A Y B Z
1 A♦ 4♦ 5♦ K♦
2 3♦ Q♦ 10♦ 2♦
3 6♥ J♥ 2♥ 3♥
4 8♥ 5♥ 9♥ 10♥
5 6♦ 4♥ K♥ A♥
6 2♣ 4♣ A♣ K♣
7 7♦ 4♠ J♦ 7♥
8 8♦ 6♠ 7♠ Q♥
9 3♣ 6♣ 7♣ Q♣
10 10♣ 8♣ 10♠ J♣
11 9♦ 9♣ J♠ 5♣
12 5♠ 9♠ A♠ 2♠
13 K♠ 8♠ Q♠ 3♠
The dealer wins three odd tricks.

ILLUSTRATIVE HAND NO. 5

Trick 2.—To many players a trump lead at this trick would seem
imperative, but if trumps are led, the adversaries obtain the lead and
must make three tricks in the club suit. The clubs must be discarded
before the adversaries obtain the lead. The king of spades should be
led, otherwise the spade suit would be blocked.
 Trick 4.—It seems like tempting fate for Z to lead his high cards,
but nothing can possibly be lost. The discards which Y takes on
these high cards offset any trump that the adversary might make.
There is everything to gain and nothing to lose.
NOT LEADING TRUMPS UNTIL LOSING
CARDS HAVE BEEN DISCARDED
It is the rubber game, score eighteen to nothing in favour of the
dealer. Z deals and passes the make. Y declares hearts.

No. 5
♠K3
♣987
♦A
♥KQJ9642
♠542 ♠ J 10 9 7
♣632 ♣AKQJ
♦J9752 ♦ 10 8 4
♥53 ♥ A 10
♠AQ86
♣ 10 5 4
♦KQ63
♥87

TRICK A Y B Z
1 5♦ A♦ 4♦ 3♦
2 2♠ K♠ 7♠ 6♠
3 4♠ 3♠ 9♠ A♠
4 2♦ 7♣ 8♦ K♦
5 7♦ 8♣ 10♦ Q♦
6 5♠ 9♣ 10♠ Q♠
7 3♥ J♥ A♥ 8♥
8 2♣ 2♥ K♣ 4♣
 9 5♥ K♥ 10♥ 7♥
10 3♣ Q♥ J♠ 5♣
11 6♣ 9♥ J♣ 10♣
12 9♦ 6♥ Q♣ 6♦
13 J♦ 4♥ A♣ 8♠
The dealer makes a small slam.

ILLUSTRATIVE HAND NO. 6

Trick 2.—Should B lead another round of hearts the weak hand
would “ruff” and the strong hand would discard.
Trick 4.—The dealer requires every trick to win the game. To
accomplish this both finesses must be successful. The trumps held in
the two hands are in sequence from the six to the queen, and
should B have the king of trumps three times protected, the lead
must be kept in Y’s hand. Many a hand has been ruined by the
incorrect play of this position.
Trick 10.—Z has the opportunity to make a brilliant coup. To
catch the ten of spades he must lead through A’s hand, and,
therefore, trumps Y’s winning club in order to obtain the lead.
LEADING THROUGH
It is the first game, score love all. Z deals and makes it
diamonds.

No. 6
♠AJ975
♣KQJ7
♦Q86
♥J
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