M AY 2 0 2 5

Food /
Is Asia the culinary
hub of the future?

Travel /
Off grid gourmet
trails in Austria

Food /

5 Beautifully
Designed
Restaurants
in Asia:
From Tokyo and Taipei to
Seoul, Singapore and Bali
FOOD
 M AY 2025

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 M AY 2025 / E D I TO R'S N OT E

PHOTO: MINGLES
Beautiful spaces, inspiring feasts
There’s something unforgettable about an excellent meal landscape. In a city teeming with plenty of new
— the kind that’s settled in your memory bank long after discoveries, we check out three haunts that are
the plates are cleared. But when a meal is framed by an off the grid yet promise singular experiences
exceptional environment – where every light, texture, crafted by passionate talents. We also explore
and detail is impeccably designed – it becomes a place Tokyo’s kissaten, traditional coffeehouses where
where you want to linger just a little longer to soak in the time seems to slow down. In these places, you
ambience and vibe. can enjoy the quaint old world atmosphere
In this issue, we spotlight five stunning restaurants in while sipping dark roasted coffee and tucking
Asia, located in Tokyo, Taipei, Seoul, Singapore and Bali. into classic dishes and airy cakes.
Designed by well-known architects and designers, their We also go off the beaten path in Austria,
interiors are just as thoughtfully composed as the cuisine. where the Michelin Guide is illuminating
We also learn about the foundation of Korean cooking: countryside gems beyond Vienna and Salzburg.
jang. Beyond being an essential seasoning, jang – in its From remote inns to tucked-away taverns, we
various forms – is a lifeline of Korean culinary tradition, find that sometimes the best meals are those
fusing generations through slow, careful fermentation, and discovered when you venture just a little farther.
deep, layered flavour. Wherever your appetite leads you, we hope
Meanwhile, the future of Asian gastronomy was a this issue inspires your next delicious journey.
topic of discussion at a special luncheon in Seoul, hosted Happy Reading
by the S.Pellegrino Young Chef Academy. We caught up
with rising stars and culinary experts shaping Asia’s next
chapter, and captured their insights, ambitions and dreams
for the region’s culinary evolution.
Elsewhere, our culinary trails take us to bustling Manila,
where vibrant new eateries are redefining the dining
Amy Van Editor

EPICUREASIA.COM
 M AY 2025 / C O N T E N TS

FOOD /

F O O D F E AT U R E
12
44
Celebrating beautiful restaurant designs
from Tokyo and Taiwan to Seoul and Bali.

22
Provenance: Korea’s traditional fermented
sauces are vessels of memory, flavour, and
philosophy.

34
S.Pellegrino Young Chef Academy (SPYCA)
brought together a group of chefs to discuss
how Asia is transforming into a culinary hub of
the future.

35 DRINKS /

29
Rodolphe Lameyse, CEO of Vinexposium
tells us more about the return of Vinexpo
Asia to Singapore as well as drinking trends
and vulnerable market situations.

32
A conversation with Maurice (III) Hennessy
on heritage, the timeless appeal of Hennessy
cognac and a life well-lived.

TRAVEL /

42 Bali
For those in search of serenity, there are still
pockets of tranquillity where Bali’s natural
beauty and heritage remain unspoiled.

48 Bangkok
Culinary experiences at Siam@Siam
Bangkok begin with knowing where
everything comes from, and why it matters.
 SIGNATIO
DE
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OTECTED

OF
ORIGI
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‡ ‡

G RAPHIC
EO A
EC T E D G

LI
NDICATIO
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‡P ‡

www.helleniceuropeanproducts.eu
Hellenic European Products PDO-PGI

THE EUROPEAN UNION SUPPORTS

CAMPAIGNS THAT PROMOTE HIGH
QUALITY AGRICULTURAL PRODUCTS
 M AY 2025 / C O N T E N TS

77
28
53 Manila
Check out these restaurants in Manila
that are deliberately located off the
72 Austria
With Austria’s Michelin stars
now shining beyond Vienna and
15
beaten path. Salzburg, we uncover culinary pit
stops in the countryside that are
59 Tokyo well worth a detour.
A journey through charming kissaten –
traditional Japanese coffeehouses. 78 France
Explore France’s Auvergne-
66 Signature views Rhône-Alpes region - from the
From Venice and Munich to Tokyo, vineyards of Beaujolais to the COVER IMAGE: AMUSE BOUCHE BY CHEFS AT
here are some dining rooms that offer trails of Alpe d’Huez and the S.PELLEGRINO YOUNG CHEF ACADEMY LUNCH HELD
extraordinary vistas. kitchens of Lyon. IN JUNGSIK SEOUL. (PHOTO CREDIT: S.PELLEGRINO)
 5VQT[QHC
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 • 10 •

S PE C I A L F E AT U R E

Discover
Asian Market Café
Asian Market Café at Fairmont
-ˆ˜}>«œÀiˆÃ> >>‡ViÀ̈wi`LÕvviÌ

vibrant
destination that showcases well-
loved Southeast Asian cuisine. Diners
can indulge in a sumptuous spread
of local favourites and contemporary

culinary regional delicacies — from smoky

grilled satay and succulent chilli
crab to fragrant biryani and more.

1-for-1
Selected dishes are freshly prepared
at live cooking stations, adding
to the vibrant dining experience.

offerings
Complete the feast with a decadent
variety of desserts, including the
signature Durian Pengat.

Whether you’re a fan of Italian Enjoy 1-for-1 promotion on

classics, rich Asian flavours, or the lunch and dinner buffet.
lavish international buffets, these
restaurants offer unforgettable dining
experiences, now with exclusive
Maybank Cardmembers privileges.

Amò
Tucked along
Hong Kong
Street, Amò
serves hand-
crafted pastas,
pizzas, and
hearty mains
like butter
roasted spring
chicken and
grilled Angus beef Beach Road Kitchen
tagliata. There’s This all-day dining venue at JW Marriott Singapore South Beach
something new to try promises a superb dining experience. The Chefs-on-Show seafood
every week through the buffet shines the spotlight on fresh oceanic treasures. There’s even a
restaurant’s rotating specials. temperature-controlled Cold Seafood Room filled with freshly shucked
Pizzas are lovingly prepared using slow- oysters, poached prawns, and snow crab legs. On weekends, enjoy
fermented dough and baked in a traditional lobster claws and barbecued seafood from the Charcoal Grill Station,
Italian wood-fired oven for that perfect featuring grilled Canadian scallops and barbecue squid in a spicy-sweet
crunch. There’s an extensive Italian wine list Indonesian glaze. Seafood aside, the restaurant offers wood-fired pizzas
too, plus beers and spirit-forward cocktails. from the Italian Oven, western specialties and local dishes.

Enjoy 1-for-1 offer on à la carte main

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 • 11 •

S PE C I A L F E AT U R E

Kintamani Quay House Town Restaurant

Restaurant If “Asian tapas inspired by the Overlooking
Kintamani Maritime Silk Route” sounds the Singapore
at Furama intriguing, then Quay House at River, Town
RiverFront Boat Quay is the place to be. Set Restaurant at
has delighted in a beautifully restored heritage the Fullerton
Singaporeans shophouse, this stylish restaurant Hotel offers
with authentic, serves Asian cuisine with a modern an elegant yet
halal Indonesian twist — think lotus leaf bao stuffed relaxed dining
cuisine since 1985. The with twice cooked pork belly or experience
restaurant was refreshed in 2024 and breaded tofu, Vietnamese style that highlights
now sports a modern new look whilst beef carpaccio, and Baharat spiced the best of local
still retaining the charming ambience lamb chops with turmeric rice, and international
of the original space. The buffet and apricots, raisins, and mint yoghurt. cuisine. Enjoy a lively
a la carte menu offers a selection of Whether you're seated indoors or business lunch with colleagues over
classic Indonesian dishes, such as at the balmy alfresco dining area, Asian delights like poached prawns
their signature peha kaki kambing Quay House offers a uniquely with Chinese wine broth or wok-
(roasted lamb leg with chef’s atmospheric setting. tossed sweet and sour clam. Dinners
homemade sauces), rendang daging are a convivial affair and ideal for
sapi, ayam panggang rica rica, and Enjoy 1-for-1 pasta when gatherings, with live carving stations,
more. A wide variety of local and you dine at Quay House. fresh seafood on ice, a noodle
Pan-Asian dishes is available too. counter, and a Chinese roast cabinet.

Enjoy 1-for-1 promotion on

Enjoy 1-for-1 promotion on the lunch and dinner buffet
the lunch and dinner buffet. on weekdays.

Oscar’s The Line

With nine theatre kitchens and an
international buffet spread that
includes Seafood on Ice, sashimi,
roasted Australian Angus beef ribeye
and baked oysters, every visit to The
Line at Shangri-La Singapore feels like
a global culinary tour. The restaurant’s
bright, open space and interactive
cooking stations make it a hit with
diners of all ages.

Enjoy 1-for-1 lunch buffet

Oscar’s from Thursday to Saturday.
There’s something for every palate at Oscar’s, Conrad Singapore Marina
Bay’s international buffet experience. Here, quality ingredients and culinary
showmanship take centre stage, with an enticing mix of global cuisines from
Western roasts and Japanese sushi to hearty local dishes prepared live by
the chefs. Highlights include classic local dishes such as spiced, slow-braised
oxtail and fragrant rendang; a fresh seafood spread of oysters and slipper
lobsters; sticky Australian lamb ribs, and more.

Enjoy 1-for-1 promotion on the lunch and dinner buffet.

PROMOTIONS ARE VALID FROM 2 MAY TO 30 JUNE 2025. TERMS AND CONDITIONS APPLY.

NOT A MAYBANK CARDMEMBER YET? SIGN UP TODAY AND GET AN

ACTIVATION GIFT WORTH S$570. TERMS AND CONDITIONS APPLY.
 • 12 •

F O O D / R E S TAU R A N T D E S I G N S

DINING
IN DESIGN
Five restaurants in Asia with stunning interior designs.
BY LUO JINGMEI

great meal in a restaurant can leave good memories. A great meal in an exceptional

A environment goes beyond that – it makes you not want to leave. Be it attentive
lighting, surprising details or tasteful furniture, the interior design of an establishment
is vital in reflecting the soul of a cuisine. Here, we highlight five that does just that.
 • 13 •

F O O D / R E S TAU R A N T D E S I G N S

Il Ristorante Niko Romito,

Bvlgari Hotel Tokyo

(FACING PAGE) AT THE END OF NIKO ROMITO ITALIAN RESTAURANT IS AN ELM WOOD PORTAL LEADING TO THE PRIVATE DINING ROOM.
(LEFT TO RIGHT) IN NIKO ROMITO, BLACK-AND-WHITE PICTURES FROM THE LA DOLCE VITA HISTORICAL PERIOD AUGMENTS THE JOYFUL
ATMOSPHERE ITALIANS LIKE TO CREATE AT MEALTIMES; CHEF NIKO'S CUISINE IS PRESENTED IN PORCELAIN TABLEWARE BY GINORI 1735,
PAIRED WITH BVLGARI SILVER CUTLERY AND FINE MURANO GLASSES BY SALVIATI. PHOTOS: FRANCESCO LUCIANI, BVLGARI HOTELS & RESORTS

Designed by Antonio Citterio and Patricia Viel of ACPV Suspended glass pendants hand blown in
Architects, Bvlgari Hotel Tokyo has been ranked highly on the Murano by Barovier & Toso, as well as Maxalto
beauty and craft scale since it opened at the 40th to 45th floors chairs and sofas finished with Dedar fabrics,
of the Tokyo Midtown Yaesu skyscraper. On the lobby level is bring across the refined spirit of Italian craft.
the one-Michelin-starred Niko Romito serving authentic Italian Champagne-gold sheer curtains soften the sharp
cuisine like Antipasto all’Italiana and Cotoletta alla Milanese. design elements and frame a terrace with sky-
high views.
A curved timber ceiling and elm wood portals reference the
shape of doors and windows of traditional Japanese wood In the eight-seater intimate private room,
temples known as katomado. It caps the tall ceiling and a 1950s-designed table by Italian design
adds drama to the restaurant’s long volume. Warm saffron- maestro Gio Ponti in the 1950s and re-edited
coloured walls, and nature-toned furniture evokes a homely by furniture brand Molteni is an anchor.
atmosphere, contrasted with columns in mesh metal whose Surrounding it, black-and-white framed
herringbone pattern is evocative of Japanese Nishijin silk pictures from the la Dolce Vita historical period
fabric and tatami mats. align with Bvlgari’s brand and history.
 • 14 •

F O O D / R E S TAU R A N T D E S I G N S

A DRAMATIC EIGHT-METRE-HIGH RED

CEILING INSPIRED BY THE ROOFS OF THE
BUILDINGS IN THE NEIGHBOURHOOD.

Rong Ju,
Capella Taipei
Opened on 1 April this year, Capella
Taipei brings a new level of luxury to
Taipei’s hospitality scene. It is located
along Dunhua North Road, where
a promenade of century-old trees
elevates the hotel’s presence. The
interior design by André Fu inspired
by a ‘modern mansion’ pays homage
to both the city and the vicinity, with
a blend of refined cosmopolitan vibes
and distinct cultural nuances.

Rong Ju, which offers classic Cantonese

cuisine, is one of the destinations in this
grand manor. Fu has reinterpreted the
neighbourhood’s traditional red-roof
architectural elements into memorable
RONG JU EMBODIES THE IDEA OF A HOME BENEATH PROTECTIVE accents such as a dramatic eight-
BRANCHES OF THE SACRED BANYAN TREE, AS WELL AS THE metre-high pitched ceiling, cloaked in
CULINARY ETHOS WITH DEEP ROOTS IN CANTONESE TRADITIONS.
terracotta red tiles.
 • 15 •

F O O D / R E S TAU R A N T D E S I G N S

Guiding the design is the spirit of (ABOVE) BOOTHS

ARE ANIMATED
two ancient Banyan trees in the WITH PEONY
locale, reflecting strength, wisdom AND FOLIAGE
and timeworn beauty. A handcrafted, MOTIFS ON AN
EIGHT-METRE-
eight-metre-wide marquetry wall with WIDE MARQUETRY.
bold, expressive peony and foliage (LEFT) AT RONG JU,
motifs interwoven into a lush backdrop CHEF KWOK WAH
CHAN PRESENTS
symbolises prosperity and writs large ELEGANT
nature’s inspiration in the narrative. INTERPRETATIONS
OF CANTONESE
CUISINE. PHOTOS:
These features are in-filled with high-
CAPELLA TAIPEI
gloss, burgundy panels and bespoke
lantern pendants that add a sculptural
quality to the spaces. Patrons can
enjoy classic roasted meats, nourishing
double-boiled soups and other
specialties conceived by Chef Kwok
Wah Chan. His over 30 years of culinary
experience introduces highlights like
steamed crab claw.
 • 16 •

F O O D / R E S TAU R A N T D E S I G N S

High above Gangnam’s glitzy streets,

Bornyon, Bornyon offers meals topped with a
panoramic backdrop of the setting sun –
Gangnam, Seoul whose colour echoes in the peach colour
of Series 7 and Swan chairs from Danish
furniture manufacturer Fritz Hansen. An
outdoor terrace brings cocktail hour
outdoors to further enjoy the spectacle.

South Korean entrepreneur and founder

of real estate developer company PLAYA
Youngkown Kim conceived the idea of a
restaurant using the Swan chairs when he
sat on one while at the Savor Vals restaurant
within Swiss architect Peter Zumthor’s
Therme Vals in Switzerland. The chairs’
long-time comfort and lasting aesthetic
beauty struck a cord, resulting in Bornyon.
 • 17 •

F O O D / R E S TAU R A N T D E S I G N S

(FACING PAGE) BORNYON CAPTURES A PICTURE-PERFECT SUNSET OVER THE ROOFTOPS OF GANGNAM. (ABOVE, FROM LEFT)
TIMELESS SERIES 7 CHAIRS FROM FRITZ HANSEN, DESIGNED BY ARNE JACOBSEN IN 1955; THE CURVES OF SWAN CHAIRS FROM
FRITZ HANSEN LEND ELEGANCE TO THE RESTAURANT. PHOTOS: TEXTURE ON TEXTURE

The restaurant embodies the idea of

timeless design centred on the cuisine
of Korean woodfire and fermentation in
inventive dishes thought up by Chef Bae
Kyung-Jun. One of the signature dishes is
‘Wild duck, Bokbunja, Strawberry’ which
sees charcoal-grilled, two-week-aged
game paired with fermented red cabbage,
cardamom and caraway seeds.
IN THE DISH 'WILD
DUCK, BOKBUNJA,
“The crucial element in this space is time – STRAWBERRY',
the feeling of time passing, the sensation of STRAWBERRIES
time standing still, the ambience of sunset WERE CARAMELISED
OVER CHARCOAL
and occasionally, an environment where AND BRUSHED
the background fades away, allowing focus OVER THE GAME,
on cuisine and conversation,” explains WHICH IS FINISHED
WITH TOASTED
Geonyoung Kang, the CEO at A-D-O CORIANDER SEEDS
Design Architecture Office. FOR A NUTTY NOTE.
 • 18 •

F O O D / R E S TAU R A N T D E S I G N S

La Terrace (Claudine),
Singapore
Scenes of nature, a casual yet considered vibe, hearty food like the ones in the south of France, capitalising on
and beautiful accents – La Terrace has all of these that make the uninterrupted views of the landscape beyond. We
patrons want to return. This extension of French Neo-Brasserie, wanted to keep the space light, bright and airy, and it
Claudine was conceived by Chef-Patron Julien Royer and The was important that it had its own identity,” says Sacha
Lo & Behold Group as being in a friend’s home – and it feels so. Leong of London-based Nice Projects of the “casual
“The general concept was to make a beautiful terrace that felt garden room".

LAMPS BY BIRGITTA SORBON MALMSTEN DESIGNED IN THE 1950S ARE DECORATED WITH REAL DRIED PLANTS FRAMED
IN CREAM-COLOURED PARCHMENT. PHOTOS BY: OWEN RAGETT
 • 19 •

F O O D / R E S TAU R A N T D E S I G N S

AT NIGHT, THE RESTAURANT PRESENTS A DIFFERENT VIBE, WITH THE LAMPS GLOWING LIKE LANTERNS. (BELOW) A MIXTURE OF
BANQUETTE, REGULAR AND LOW TABLE SEATING CREATES A CASUAL ATMOSPHERE TO ENJOY THE DISHES LIKE THE SIGNATURE
FRENCH ROASTED CHICKEN DISH.

Large windows frame the lush foliage of Dempsey

Hill. A pet-friendly outdoor terrace offers
conviviality in the tropical weather while a cosy
12-seater private dining room accommodates
intimate gatherings. In the main space, Swedish
designer Birgitta Sorbon Malmsten’s pretty lamps
encapsulate a tiny bit of nature.

“They reference the pressed foliage panels inside

Claudine and provided a glow to the terrace,”
says Leong. Dishes like the roasted chicken served
with Niigata rice and crispy chicken skin, and
comforting small plates like shrimp toast and mini
madeleines for dessert adhere to the ‘friend’s
home’ vibe.
 • 20 •

F O O D / R E S TAU R A N T D E S I G N S

(ABOVE) KEIYO MERGES INFLUENCES FROM TRADITIONAL JAPANESE AND BALINESE ARCHITECTURE. (BELOW) EACH ASPECT, DOWN
TO THE CUTLERY, WAS CHOSEN OR DESIGNED BY ARCHITECT SOO K. CHAN. PHOTOS: SCDA ARCHITECTS; DRONE SHOTS BY KADEK

Keiyo,
Soori Bali
Tucked between the Mount Batukaru and
terrace rice fields, bordering glistening
volcanic black sand beaches and dramatic
cliffs, Soori Bali is anchored by nature. These
forces are witnessed in their wild glory from
the vantage of a new eight-seater, cliff-top
teppanyaki restaurant, Keiyo.

It was designed by Soo K. Chan, who is also

the architect, developer and hotelier for Soori
Bali. The Soori brand is his passion project,
and apart from Soori High Line in New York, he
will soon welcome Soori Heritage Penang in
Malaysia into the fold.
 • 21 •

F O O D / R E S TAU R A N T D E S I G N S

(CLOCKWISE FROM TOP)

Opened in April, Keiyo offers set teppanyaki concept as it is “interactive and keeps the
PERCHED ON A CLIFF,
menus with inventive interpretations of guests engage.” KEIYO OFFERS DRAMATIC
teppanyaki favourites such as wagyu VIEWS; THREE NEARBY
steak and premium seafood. “I wanted The pavilion-like restaurant melds Japanese and Balinese PAVILIONS OFFER SPACES
to have an intimate speciality restaurant architecture with timber framing and a thatched roof. FOR CONTEMPLATION; THE
RESTAURANT'S GLASS WALLS
that is a bit away from the main hotel. Dark granite tiles underfoot match Wishbone chairs from
OFFERS A SEAMLESS VIEW TO
The location offers dramatic cliff views Danish brand Carl Hansen & Søn, whose black oak frame THE SEA; WAGYU STEAK IS A
as well as the mountain view to the and trademark woven paper cord seats reflect the hotel’s HIGHLIGHT ON THE MENU,
back,” describes Chan who chose the modern-tropical aesthetic. SERVED AT THE CHEF'S TABLE.
 • 22 •

FOOD / PROVENANCE

The enduring soul

of korean jang
More than mere seasonings, Korea’s traditional
fermented sauces — doenjang, ganjang, and
gochujang — are vessels of memory, flavour,
and philosophy.
B Y J O C E LY N TA N
 • 23 •

FOOD / PROVENANCE

O
(FACING PAGE) pen any refrigerator in a Korean kitchen, soybeans, water, and salt, it became a protein-
THERE ARE THREE
FOUNDATIONAL TYPES and you’ll likely find jang. rich, vitamin-packed staple that sustained
OF JANG: DOENJANG families through long winters and lean years.
(FERMENTED SOYBEAN It’s in the soy sauce that seasons your soup, the
PASTE), GANJANG (SOY
SAUCE), AND GOCHUJANG fermented soybean paste that deepens your stew, Its enduring presence in Korean food isn’t just
(RED CHILLI PASTE). or the spicy-sweet gochujang that adds a kick to a testament to taste, but to resilience. Jang
(ABOVE) CHEF KANG’S your bibimbap. Jang isn’t just a condiment — it’s a transforms simple ingredients into something
MODERN TAKE
ON BOYANGSHIK
lifeline of Korean cooking. So foundational is jang nourishing, complex, and versatile. Necessity
(RESTORATIVE DISHES) to the Korean kitchen that it often goes unspoken, became tradition. Tradition became flavour.
BRINGS TOGETHER its presence assumed. But behind its quiet ubiquity And today, jang continues to shape the table.
PREMIUM MEATS,
SEAFOOD, VEGETABLES,
is a slow, layered process — and a story of survival. Jang has aroma: earthy, salty, and deep. It
AND MUSHROOMS has texture — sometimes smooth, sometimes
IN A HARMONIOUS, For much of Korea’s agrarian past, meat was coarse, sometimes syrupy. A single spoonful
NOURISHING CREATION:
THE MINGLING POT.
scarce and dairy virtually nonexistent. Up until of doenjang can bring a pot of vegetables to
just a few generations ago, jang was more than life. A few drops of ganjang can pull a dish
flavour — it was function. With little access to together. Gochujang can both awaken a palate
animal protein, Koreans turned to jang as a vital and soothe a craving. But jang is more than
nutritional anchor. Made from nothing more than seasoning. It’s memory, land, care, and time.
 • 24 •

FOOD / PROVENANCE

Main players
There are three foundational types of jang: doenjang
(fermented soybean paste), ganjang (soy sauce), and
gochujang (red chilli paste). Doenjang and ganjang
begin at the same starting point: meju. Meju is
made by boiling soybeans, mashing them, shaping
them into bricks, and then fermenting them with
wild microbes — often by hanging them with rice
straw through winter. This first fermentation can last
weeks. Once the meju blocks are dried and ready,
they’re submerged in brine inside porous onggi jars,
which breathe through microscopic pores and allow
air circulation.

As time passes, the meju infuses the brine. Eventually,

the liquid is drained and becomes ganjang, while
the solids are mashed and aged into doenjang. This
is what makes Korean jang unique — it is twice-
fermented, a process that creates incredible depth
of flavour. Gochujang, on the other hand, is usually
made from meju powder, glutinous rice, red chilli
powder, and rice syrup. It is not separated into liquid
and solids like the others, but ferments as a cohesive
paste, resulting in a thick, spicy-sweet umami bomb
used in everything from stews to sauces.

“Meju is the foundation,” says Master Ki Soon-do,

a traditional jang maker and the 10th-generation
daughter-in-law of the Yangjinjae head house, which
boasts a 370-year-old jang-making lineage. “But it’s
(FROM TOP) not just about flavour. It’s about respect — for nature,
THESE MEJU for process, for what came before.”
BLOCKS ARE THE
FOUNDATION OF
JANG; MASTER Master Ki has been making jang for 53 years,
KI SOON-D IS A overseeing over 1,200 onggi jars in her Damyang
TRADITIONAL
JANG MAKER
fermentation yard. In 2008, she was designated Korea’s
AND THE 10TH- 35th Traditional Food Master. Her process is deeply
GENERATION tied to Korea’s seasonal rhythms. Meju is made in
DAUGHTER-IN-
LAW OF THE
the cold, dry winter months — between the 11th and
YANGJINJAE 12th lunar months — because harmful bacteria are
HEAD HOUSE, less active. Jang is then created in early spring and
WHICH
BOASTS A
separated into doenjang and ganjang around April
370-YEAR-OLD or May. “Even the days we choose to make jang are
JANG-MAKING important,” she explains. “We select auspicious days
LINEAGE.
and begin the process with reverence.”

Fermentation continues through the summer as

heat activates microbial activity, while the jars’ clay
walls regulate internal temperatures. In autumn, jang
 • 25 •

FOOD / PROVENANCE

settles into maturity. “Time is the ingredient you can’t

fake,” says Master Ki. “People think fermentation takes
too long, but that’s what makes it precious.”

Good jang begins with good meju, which requires not

just soybeans, but clean air, fresh water, and a carefully
managed drying environment. According to Ki, poorly
ventilated or over-humid conditions can spoil the meju.
“A well-fermented meju smells like sun-dried straw,”
she says. And while many households used to make
their own jang, she notes that today, most people buy
mass-produced versions, often unaware of how deeply
different they are from handmade jang.

Traditional jang is made slowly, using wild fermentation,

over months or years. Mass-market jang, on the other
hand, is often hydrolysed soy protein that’s flavoured
(ABOVE) THICK, SPICY, AND DEEPLY UMAMI—GOCHUJANG IS
with additives and aged in steel vats for just weeks.
KOREA’S BOLDEST FLAVOUR. (BELOW) MASTER KI, WHO HAS BEEN
“Jang is a culture, not just a technique,” Ki insists. “It MAKING JANG FOR 53 YEARS SAYS, “JANG IS A CULTURE, NOT JUST
holds emotion, intention, and time.” A TECHNIQUE. IT HOLDS EMOTION, INTENTION, AND TIME.”
 • 26 •

FOOD / PROVENANCE

CHEF MINGOO KANG

Modern reinterpretations
If Master Ki represents jang’s past and continuity,
Chef Mingoo Kang of three-Michelin-starred
Mingles represents its evolution. For the chef,
jang is the starting point of any conversation
about Korean cuisine. “I grew up eating it
daily, like all Koreans,” he says. “But it wasn’t
until I opened Mingles and started exploring
Korean food more deeply that I realised that
despite having eaten it all my life, I didn’t fully
understand jang.”
(FROM TOP) NOTHING
Meeting figures like Chef Cho Hee-sook and AMPLIFIES THE
Monk Jeong Kwan changed that. From them, VERSATILITY OF JANG AT
Kang learned that the choice of jang — its type, MINGLES MORE THAN
age, and flavour profile — is central to Korean JANG TRIO: A DESSERT
WITH DOENJANG-
cooking. It determines the dish’s character. Since
FLAVOURED CRÈME
then, he has explored jang not just in traditional BRÛLÉE, SOY
Korean food but across Western cuisine, modern SAUCE-FLAVOURED
techniques, and even desserts. CARAMELISED PECANS,
AND GOCHUJANG-
FLAVOURED RICE PUFFS;
At Mingles, jang appears most uniquely in his
MINGLES IS THE ONLY
signature dish, the Jang Trio. Think a doenjang- THREE-MICHELIN-
flavoured crème brûlée, soy sauce-flavoured STARRED RESTAURANT
caramelised pecans, and a playful, crunchy IN SOUTH KOREA
texture with gochujang-flavoured rice puff that’s IN 2025.
 • 27 •

FOOD / PROVENANCE

SWEET BIBIMBAP HWEH WITH GOCHUJANG CAVIAR

topped with a scoop of creamy vanilla ice cream CHEF KANG

and whiskey foam. A symphony of sweet, savoury, PUBLISHED HIS
spicy, and rich flavours that showcases the BOOK, JANG, IN
2024, IN A BID
versatility of jang.
TO INTRODUCE
KOREAN FOOD
Chef Kang believes jang has a place in CULTURE PROPERLY
global cuisine, but he’s cautious about TO THE WORLD.
misrepresentation. “People often assume Korean
ganjang is just soy sauce, or that doenjang is
Korean miso. But jang is different — it has a
different origin and a different purpose. Korean
food needs Korean jang.” That’s part of why he
wrote Jang: The Soul of Korean Cooking, a recipe
book dedicated to these condiments, published
in English before Korean. “I wanted to introduce
Korean food culture properly to the world.”

In the book, he includes approachable recipes

like soy sauce ragu — used in bibimbap, bulgogi
pizza, or pasta — to show that jang isn’t exotic
or obscure. It can live comfortably in a modern,
international kitchen. “I want jang to become a
familiar, everyday ingredient around the world,”
he shares.
 • 28 •

FOOD / PROVENANCE

The future of jang JANG IS

Yet for both Master Ki and Chef Kang, jang remains
Despite modernisation, jang remains a vital part TRADITIONALLY
deeply personal. “It’s in the vegetable side dishes MADE IN ONGGI
of Korea’s food identity — and increasingly, a my grandmother made,” says Kang. “Simple namul JARS, WHICH
point of pride and preservation. In 2024, jang- seasoned with Jang — blanched, raw, or stir-fried. BREATHE
making culture was officially listed as a UNESCO Since these dishes are so simple, jang plays a THROUGH
Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. Master central role in flavour.” For Ki, it is family, memory, MICROSCOPIC
Ki’s fermentation school now welcomes chefs PORES AND
and philosophy: “Jang holds the wisdom of our ALLOW AIR
from around the world. So far, over 35 chefs from ancestors. It is nature, time, care, and spirit — all CIRCULATION
15 countries have trained under her, learning not contained in one jar.” DURING THE
just techniques but the philosophy of jang. PROCESS.
On a cold winter morning in Damyang, the
She’s also collaborated with Korean fine- courtyard behind Master Ki Soon-do’s house is lined
dining restaurants and chefs to bring jang into with rows of clay jars, their contents undisturbed,
contemporary dining spaces. At events like ageing slowly beneath the sun. Inside each vessel,
“Jangko” with Chef Joseph Lidgerwood of a flavour is forming — one that speaks of family,
two-Michelin-starred EVETT or the “Heritage of patience, and a past carefully tended for the future.
Artisan” series with Chef Kang Min-Chul, jang Whether served in a temple bowl or a Michelin-
appears in refined dishes, plated like art and starred tasting menu, jang continues to tell the
paired with wine. story of Korea. And it is still taking its time.
 • 29 •

DRINKS / WINE

B Y J OYC E L I N E T U L LY

RODOLPHE LAMEYSE, CEO OF THE VINEXPOSIUM GROUP

Back to our shores

Rodolphe Lameyse, CEO of Vinexposium talks about the return of Vinexpo Asia
to Singapore as well as drinking trends and vulnerable market situations.

T
he highly anticipated Vinexpo Asia 2025 The debut in Singapore in 2023 has established the city as
returns to Singapore from 27 to 29 May the gateway to the Asia-Pacific market. Vinexpo Asia 2025
2025 at Marina Bay Sands. Taking place will bring together 1,000 exhibitors from over 30 countries
alternately in Singapore and Hong Kong, the and welcome 11,000 professional visitors from 70 countries.
premier event for wine and spirits professionals This year, attendees can look forward to an in-depth
serves as a strategic platform for networking, programme designed to meet the challenges facing the
discovering industry innovations, and fostering industry today. We find out more from Rodolphe Lameyse,
business opportunities. CEO of the Vinexposium group on what to expect this year.
 • 30 •

DRINKS / WINE

How different will Vinexpo Asia 2025 in Trump’s tariffs will influence the wine trade globally, VINEXPO ASIA
2025 (27 – 29
Singapore be compared to the 2023 edition? but how should the industry in Asia respond to it? MAY) WILL BRING
A more assertive ambition for 2025, after a first Tariffs imposed by the US administration are already TOGETHER 1,000
edition in Singapore that was successful but still impacting the global wine trade. While their scope and EXHIBITORS
exploratory. We’re building on that momentum with duration remain to be seen, the industry must prepare now. FROM OVER 30
a sharper business focus, more regional engagement, The heavy reliance on a few mature markets, particularly the COUNTRIES AND
WELCOME 11,000
and a stronger presence of key international players. US, is becoming a vulnerability. Asia, especially Southeast
PROFESSIONAL
Singapore remains the natural hub for Southeast Asia Asia, offers a mix of resilient and fast-growing markets, from VISITORS FROM
— efficient, neutral, and trusted by the trade. It brings Japan and Korea to Vietnam and Indonesia. It’s time to 70 COUNTRIES,
together high-level professionals from across ASEAN, rebalance efforts, not wait for the old order to return. The OFFERING
India, Korea, Japan and beyond, in one place where future of wine trade will be more diversified, and Asia is a THREE DAYS
OF BUSINESS
deals get done. key part of that equation. That’s exactly what Vinexpo Asia
OPPORTUNITIES.
in Singapore is designed to do: help the industry deepen its
What’s the differentiation between the tradeshow reach across Southeast Asia’s full potential.
in Singapore versus the one in Hong Kong?
Vinexposium’s strategy in Asia is deliberately dual. What are the emerging markets in Southeast Asia to
Vinexpo Asia alternates between Hong Kong and pay attention to?
Singapore to serve two distinct market dynamics. Southeast Asia is showing real momentum. Thailand stands
Hong Kong is our gateway to the Chinese market out with recent tax reforms—scrapping import duties and
— including the Greater Bay Area and Mainland cutting excise tax on wine—which could trigger growth on a
China — while Singapore gives us strong access scale similar to what Hong Kong experienced in 2008. India
to Southeast Asia, from established hubs like is another key market, with rising demand across wine, spirits,
Singapore, Japan, and Korea to fast-growing and RTDs, led by a curious and growing middle class. Korea,
markets such as Thailand, Vietnam and Indonesia. despite economic headwinds, still reports import values well
Together, they allow us to address the full spectrum above 2020. Each market operates differently, but together,
of Asia-Pacific trade. they signal a region shifting from potential to priority.
 • 31 •

DRINKS / WINE

VINEXPO ASIA HELD IN SINGAPORE THIS YEAR

IS WELL-POSITIONED TO OPEN OPPORTUNITIES
TO EMERGING MARKETS SUCH AS VIETNAM,
THAILAND, MALAYSIA AND INDONESIA.

from Guizhou, China. On the wine side, Moderato

represents the growing no-alcohol trend, and new
national pavilions include Tunisia, Belarus, and
Ukraine. We’re also welcoming Wines of South
Africa and New Zealand Wine back to Singapore,
plus two Argentine pavilions, including one led by
the Mendoza region. Among the major exhibitors,
Penfolds, Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite),
and Castel Frères will also be present, to name just
a few.

Will the Low ABV trend affect the wine market

in a big way? And how should the wine industry
deal with that?
The low and no-alcohol trend is not a passing fad
Why do you think countries like Thailand and Malaysia are — it reflects deeper shifts in consumer priorities,
booming at the moment and will this continue? particularly among younger generations. Health-
Thailand is accelerating fast—fiscal reforms, the return of tourism, conscious choices and moderation are becoming
and a thriving cocktail culture are boosting demand across wine more important, and alcohol levels are part of
and spirits. Malaysia is more regulated, but premiumisation and that conversation. The wine and spirits industry
the rise of mixology in Kuala Lumpur point to a clear shift. These is beginning to adapt, but it’s a complex process:
insights, drawn from IWSR data shared during our recent press reducing ABV without compromising on taste,
roadshow in Asia, reflect a wider regional trend: consumers are identity, or quality is a real technical and cultural
trading up, and the on-trade is leading the way. challenge. That said, No-Low is clearly one of the
few segments where opportunities are emerging,
Are there any notable new exhibitors coming to Singapore this and it will likely become an integral part of the
year? Could you please share some of the major or unique ones? market’s future landscape. The first-time presence
Yes, several exciting additions are joining Vinexpo Asia in Singapore of a player like Moderato at Vinexpo Asia
this year. Grace O’Malley brings premium Irish whiskey to the show reflects how this shift is now turning into tangible
for the first time, alongside a dedicated pavilion of baijiu producers business momentum.
 • 32 •

DRINKS/ COGNAC

Aged to perfection
A conversation with Maurice (III) Hennessy on heritage,
the timeless appeal of Hennessy cognac and a life well-lived.
BY STEPHANIE ZHENG

T
here are names that transcend time, weaving themselves adamant, and there were letters written in those times by
into the very fabric of luxury and heritage, and Hennessy is him, saying that cognac is made with the local wine from the
one of them. For over 250 years, the House of Hennessy cognac region and double distilled, etc. There was no way we
has shaped the world of cognac, not just as a spirit but as a living were to accept these offers of brandy coming from anywhere.
testament to craftsmanship, history, and evolution. At the heart of it
presently is Maurice Hennessy, the 8th-generation heir, who carries And then there’s James Hennessy [from the second
legacy with effortless charm and a storyteller’s grace. generation]. I would like to know why did he create VSOP?
Why did he elect Jean Fillioux as a master blender, not
If you could sit down with one of your ancestors from the realising that later, we would have the eighth generation of
Hennessy family, what would you ask them? master blenders?
It depends which one. They all did things which are important.
My favourite at this time would be my grandfather because They are all fascinating.
I've done that (spoken to him), and of course, I regret having
forgotten to ask him some things. Or maybe I forgot what he What is one family tradition or story tied to
told me. But he lived most of the 20th century with Hennessy, or Hennessy that still resonates with you today?
at least a very big half of it. I like the story of the XO. Maurice I [my great-great
grandfather] was entertaining a lot. He had a home, which is
My great-great-grandfather, Maurice I was fascinating, too. He now a hotel in Paris called La Clé des Champs. And he had
protected cognac very much because some naughty foreigners his own cognac made because he was Mr Hennessy, and he
wanted to make cognac with non-cognac words. So he was very could have whatever he wanted from the House of Hennessy.
 • 33 •

DRINKS/ COGNAC

(CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT)

8TH-GENERATION HEIR
MAURICE HENNESSY CARRIES
FORWARD THE HOUSE’S
LEGACY WITH EFFORTLESS
CHARM; HENNESSY V.S.O.P
OFFERS A DELICATE BLEND
OF WOOD NOTES AND
SPICES; "THE BEES TELL US
EVERYTHING. IF THEY THRIVE,
WE KNOW WE’RE DOING
SOMETHING RIGHT," SAYS
MAURICE HENNESSY ON
HENNESSY’S COMMITMENT
TO NATURE.

Guests would ask for it, and Maurice I would tell them,
“This is my cognac, it’s not for sale. I have it made in small
quantities just for my own dining room.” But as demand
grew, he saw an opportunity.

He spoke to the Fillioux – it was Émile Fillioux at the time – and

they devised a cognac which was to become XO. The name was The bees tell us everything. If they thrive, we know we’re
simply ‘Extra Old’ because that’s what it was. doing something right.

And for a hundred years, no one else could make something called Two years ago, I lost nine beehives out of 10. Last year, I
XO. That was my great-great grandfather’s legacy. managed to put traps, and I didn’t lose a single one. This year,
I’m expanding my hives again. It’s about learning, adapting,
You’ve travelled to many corners of the world. Is there a and working with nature, not against it.
particular moment or encounter that really solidified
your love for what you do? Hennessy has been around for centuries. How do you
People think I travel the world drinking cognac all day. But it's ensure it remains relevant today?
work — early mornings, late nights, countless conversations. But Hard work. Cognac has been in Asia since the 1870s, even
if you love what you do, it never feels like work. earlier in some cases. It’s not a new product. But maintaining its
presence, keeping it relevant, takes effort.
Every country has its charm. When you see a place like
Singapore, and then you see Cognac, they are worlds apart. If My grandfather entertained international guests in Cognac when
you had one building half the size of what’s here, it would be there were no luxury hotels. They would stay at home, and it
taller than the church! The contrast is fascinating. (And ultimately) was normal to speak English at dinner. Today, the world is more
it’s not just about the drink, it’s about the connections it creates. connected than ever, and that same spirit of hospitality remains.

Sustainability is a growing focus in the spirits industry. At the end of the day, cognac is about pleasure. There are
What role does Hennessy play in driving change? no rules, just good company, good conversation, and a good
The land is everything. Without it, there is no cognac. glass of Hennessy.
 • 34 •

F O O D / F E AT U R E

S.PELLEGRINO HOSTED AN EXCLUSIVE LUNCHEON AT JUNGSIK SEOUL, AHEAD OF THE

S.PELLEGRINO YOUNG CHEF ACADEMY (SPYCA) 2024-25’ GRAND FINALE.

The future of gastronomy in Asia

S.Pellegrino Young Chef Academy (SPYCA) brought together young chefs, mentor
chefs and judges to discuss how Asia is transforming into a culinary hub of the future.
B Y A M Y VA N

I
n March, S.Pellegrino Young Chef Academy SPYCA multi-course dining experience. The lunch was held at
invited young chefs, mentor chefs and judges for Jungsik Seoul, a Michelin-starred restaurant operated
a special luncheon in Seoul. The purpose was to by Chef Jungsik Yim, who previously served as a judge
bring the future to the table through a panel discussion in the SPYCA 2015-16 Northeast Asia Regional Final.
on the theme ‘Asia: Transforming into a Culinary Hub of In October, the 15 regional winners including Ardy will
the Future’. Host and SPYCA judge alumni chef Jungsik progress to compete in the Grand Finale in Milan, Italy.
Yim, Asia regional champion Ardy Ferguson, and 10 We caught up with Ardy and a few of the top chefs to
regionally renowned chefs presented an exclusive find out more about the state of dining in Asia.
 • 35 •

F O O D / F E AT U R E

ARDY FERGUSON,
ASIA REGIONAL
WINNER, SERVED
WITH AN ADAPTATION
OF HIS WINNING
DISH, ‘ARCHIPELAGO
CELEBRATION’,
INSPIRED BY THE
“VIBRANT CULINARY
TRADITIONS OF
INDONESIA” AND
THE GASTRONOMIC
OFFERINGS OF
HONG KONG.

but I have come to understand that a dish is not just about flavour. It is
about conveying passion and purpose. As I prepare to present my dish to a
panel of world-renowned chefs, I aim to infuse every element with meaning.
Ardy Ferguson, It is a daunting challenge but thanks to Chef Vicky, I feel ready to share not
sous chef, Belon, Hong Kong just my culinary skills but a piece of my personal journey.

How are the preparations going for the What are some of the most memorable lessons you’ve learnt working
grand finale? Have you made any updates or with these top chefs and mentors?
refinement to your creation? Being in the same room with so many talented and celebrated chefs was
Preparing for the grand finale has been an an unforgettable experience. Beyond techniques, I learnt the importance
incredible journey. I am telling my story through of executing a dish under pressure. Watching them move through an
this dish so every ingredient down to the unfamiliar kitchen with precision and calm was a masterclass in itself. The
ceramics has a narrative and reason. This also most memorable takeaway, however, was surprisingly simple: “Enjoy
gives me a chance to work with Indonesian the moment.” It is easy to feel overwhelmed in such a high-pressure
artisans to design bespoke ceramics and wooden environment but one chef reminded me to pause and appreciate the
platters that reflect the textures and traditions privilege of being there and the rare opportunity to showcase my cuisine.
of the Archipelago. I believe this partnership will
allow me to showcase Indonesian cuisine on a How do you feel about representing Asia for the competition?
global stage. And what do you want the world to know about Asia’s culinary
scene at the moment?
Growing up in Indonesia, I always dreamt of Asia’s culinary scene is a vibrant tapestry of flavours, techniques
sharing our culinary heritage with the world and and traditions — reflecting the continent’s immense cultural
this competition presents the perfect opportunity diversity. There has been a growing recognition of the
to do just that. I was truly inspired by the judges’ depth and variety within Asian cuisines. Chefs are
insights and my fellow competitors’ techniques increasingly experimenting with local ingredients
during the regional finals. Every tweak I make and blending them with contemporary
brings me one step closer to a dish that genuinely techniques, creating innovative dishes that
honours my roots. honour their roots while appealing to global
palates. This reflects the adaptability and
What’s some of the best advice you’ve received ingenuity of Asian culinary traditions. I want
from Chef Vicky Lau? the world to see that Asia’s food scene is
One of the best pieces of advice I have received not only diverse but dynamic, constantly
from Chef Vicky is the importance of storytelling. evolving while remaining deeply rooted in
Her mentorship has been pivotal in shaping my its heritage. I am committed to showcasing
approach to the competition, helping me express this energy through my signature dish in Milan.
my culinary philosophy through my signature While the responsibility is immense, I embrace it
dish. At first, I was focused solely on technique wholeheartedly and hope to make Asia proud.
 • 36 •

F O O D / F E AT U R E

XX

(FROM LEFT) CHEF KIRK

WESTAWAY WAS A SPYC FINALIST
10 YEARS AGO; GUESTS WERE
TREATED TO A SUBLIME LUNCH
HELD IN JUNGSIK SEOUL.

Kirk Westaway,
executive chef, JAAN by
Kirk Westaway, Singapore
How do you feel today, 10 years after being What advice do you have for young chefs
a SPYC finalist, about the fine dining today to stay consistent and excel?
scene in Asia? How has it evolved since you My advice is, listen to everyone, but act only
started in Singapore? on the advice that you truly believe in. Keep a
Being part of San Pellegrino Young Chef was a thick skin, as not every day is full of rainbows.
major stepping stone at the start of my career. There is plenty of talk about passion, hard work,
The day I returned from the world final in Milan and discipline and all of it matters but the key
in 2015 was my first day leading JAAN. It is, stay humble, learn constantly, and build your
marked a real turning point and hasn’t slowed own philosophy. And enjoy the ride.
down 10 years on.
Do you believe Asia is becoming a culinary
Arriving in Singapore, there were not many hub of the future, and why?
fine dining restaurants. Today, the dining scene Absolutely, Asia’s diversity, talent, and drive
is thriving. Tough to find a bad meal here. are unmatched. The region is full of passionate
Singapore diners are incredibly knowledgeable, chefs, incredible quality ingredients, extremely
with a sharp sense on how food should taste creative ideas and it is receiving the global
and be presented. Every guest is a foodie and attention it deserves. With growing recognition
a critic, ensuring all of us to bring our A game and investment in hospitality, Asia is setting
daily. There is now a strong identity across the new benchmarks with a very bright and very
region, earning Singapore global recognition. exciting future ahead.
 • 37 •

F O O D / F E AT U R E

(FROM TOP) SPECIAL

LUNCHEON HOSTED
BY S.PELLEGRINO
AT JUNGSIK SEOUL;
CHEF JUNG-SIK
YIM (RIGHT) AND
ROBERTO CARONI,
SANPELLEGRINO
ASIA PACIFIC
ZONE DIRECTOR;

Chef Jung-sik Yim, METICULOUS

PREPARATION
head chef and owner, OF JUNGSIK’S
SIGNATURE DESSERT.
Jungsik, Seoul
How do you feel about Seoul being the
world’s focus presently? In your opinion,
how has Seoul’s fine dining scene evolved in
the last decade?
As someone who has witnessed Seoul’s rise
as a global culinary destination over the past
decade, I feel truly proud and excited. What’s
especially meaningful is the growing number
of Korean fine dining restaurants around the
world that spotlight native ingredients and
fermentation traditions—such as jang and
kimchi. This focus has made Seoul increasingly
appealing to foodies across the globe.

Where do you see South Korea’s standing in

the global food scene in the next few years?
It’s hard to say exactly where things will stand Just like anything meaningful in life, there’s no
in a few years, but I believe Korean cuisine will shortcut — slowly but surely, the reach, depth, and
continue to attract global attention and curiosity. influence of Korean food will continue to grow.

What advice do you have for young South

Korean chefs you’re training or worked with?
Be consistent. Keep going — things will come
together. Don’t rush. Be patient. Everything
happens for a reason, and every action has its
consequences. Since you’ve chosen this path,
give it your all. The process itself holds the
answers. If you’ve truly done your best, there’s
nothing to regret. Whether you succeed or fail,
it all becomes a foundation for greater growth
ahead. Whatever the outcome, take a moment
to acknowledge your own effort. And yes, I know
we’ve all heard these kinds of things from parents,
teachers, or mentors. But once again, please,
open your ears and let go of your stubbornness.
 • 38 •

F O O D / F E AT U R E

(FROM RIGHT) CHEFS HAN LIGUANG, RICHIE LIN AND KIRK WESTAWAY.

Han Liguang,
chef-owner Labyrinth, Singapore

How do you think Asia is impacting the global dining Seoul is definitely one to watch. The Korean
scene, and how is our region transforming into a culinary culinary movement has gained incredible
hub of the future ? momentum, not only regionally but around the
As a Singaporean I’ll always be proud of our vibrant and world, and more Korean culinary talents are
diverse culinary scene – I truly believe Singapore will finding success on the international stage. Then
continue to be a key culinary hub in Asia. Hong there’s Bangkok, which has long been home
Kong remains a major player too, with its deep-rooted to some of the world’s best restaurants and
gastronomic culture. But what’s really exciting is how continues to evolve creatively.
we’re seeing the emergence of two new culinary
powerhouses in Asia. What’s driving this broader regional rise,
 • 39 •

F O O D / F E AT U R E

though, is twofold. Firstly, the influence of social media What advice do you have for the young chefs in
and increased global accessibly is changing the game Singapore/Asia on being consistent and resolute,
– people are now more willing to explore cities they particularly during uncertain times?
might’ve overlooked before, like Mumbai or Vietnam. Firstly, I want to add a caveat by saying that we
There’s a growing curiosity about local street food culture shouldn’t lump all chefs into one group because how
and regional flavours that are deeply rooted in heritage. chefs can adapt would depend on whether they work
in the fine dining or casual space. With that said, I
Secondly, from a fine dining and gastronomical can only speak from the realm of which I’m in. What
perspective, we’re seeing a real spotlight on local talent we do at Labyrinth is a constant need to evolve and
and cuisine thanks to platforms like Asia’s 50 Best and understand cultural nuances. I believe that evolution
Michelin Guide. As more restaurants from these cities does not come purely driven by trends, because
make it onto these lists, they naturally draw attention trends come and go. As a chef running a restaurant
from the global food community. It’s not just about for over a decade now, I know that it’s important
prestige – it’s also about people genuinely wanting to for chefs to be driven by passion and what he/she
experience these places through food, that’s why cities believes in personally. My ever-present passion to want
like Shanghai and Mumbai are growing in prominence, to be better isn’t driven by what’s trendy. To be truly
and others are gaining traction so quickly. successful in fine dining and tasting menu space, a
chef has to be really driven and stay true to himself or
It’s such an exciting time for Asia’s culinary landscape – herself. Lastly, the chef must always be humble enough
there’s a real sense of momentum and evolution, and it’s to always seek to improve their craft. That’s how you
amazing to see more cities stepping into the spotlight. achieve longevity.

GUESTS AT THE
LUNCH INCLUDED
MEDIA AND
INFLUENCERS
FROM SEOUL
AND OVERSEAS,
AS WELL AS
AUSTIN KANG,
CHEF-OWNER
OF MUKJUNG,
SEOUL. (SEATED
FAR RIGHT)
 • 40 •

F O O D / F E AT U R E

Taiwan plays a significant role in this movement;

it may be small geographically, but its impact is
growing sharply on the international culinary map.

Ingredient-driven cuisine: Taiwan has some of the best

seasonal produce, heritage soy sauces, tea culture, and
seafood in Asia. Chefs like myself, André Chiang, and
others are showcasing Taiwan’s terroir through modern,
world-class techniques.

Freedom to experiment: Unlike more rigid culinary

Richie Lin, scenes, Taiwan offers a degree of creative freedom and
cultural openness that lets chefs experiment without
chef-owner Mume, Taipei being overly bound by tradition or market pressure.

How is Asia transforming into a culinary hub of the Strategic location and market: Taiwan is well-
future and why? And how does Taiwan contribute positioned to be a gateway between Northeast Asia
to this? and Southeast Asia, both in terms of culinary cross-
Asia is rapidly transforming into the culinary hub of the pollination and as a testbed for forward-thinking
future for several compelling reasons. Firstly, cultural food concepts — from plant-based dining to fine-
depth meets innovation: Asia has a rich and diverse casual formats.
culinary heritage, from centuries-old traditions in Japan
and China to the vibrant street food cultures of Southeast Growing global recognition from international
Asia. But what’s remarkable now is how young chefs rankings to international rankings to Taiwan’s rising
are reinterpreting this heritage with global techniques, visibility in documentaries and culinary tourism,
sustainability mindsets, and avant-garde creativity. This the island is being recognised not just as a food
fusion is creating a truly new kind of gastronomy that’s destination, but as a cultural innovator.
both rooted and progressive.

Global attention and recognition: The world’s food

media, awards, and luxury travellers are increasingly
turning their eyes to Asia — not just to visit, but to
discover the next big thing. Initiatives like the Asia’s 50
Best Restaurants list and Michelin Guides in cities like
Bangkok, Seoul, and Tokyo are spotlighting regional
talents and driving culinary tourism across the continent.

Local ingredients, world-class execution: Asia is blessed

with biodiversity — everything from the spices of South
India to the seafood of Hokkaido. Chefs are leaning into
local sourcing, regenerative agriculture, and forgotten
ingredients to tell unique stories that resonate globally.
Asia isn’t just catching up to the West — it’s for sustainability and work-life balance. (FACING PAGE)
CHEF RICHIE LIN
redefining the future of fine dining, sustainability, But challenges also bring opportunity. The
IS A PIONEER
and food storytelling. Taiwan plays a key role culinary world is more open than ever to new IN THE USE OF
by offering both world-class ingredients and a ideas, cultural voices, and creative formats. UNDERRATED
spirit of innovation that makes it one of the most TAIWANESE
exciting places to cook and eat today. My advice? Stay curious, stay humble, INGREDIENTS
AND ZERO-
and stay rooted. Build a strong
WASTE COOKING
How challenging will it be for young foundation by learning the craft— PRACTICES. (THIS
chefs wanting to join the culinary world whether in kitchens, farms, or markets. PAGE) THE MULTI-
– especially during uncertain times? What But don’t be afraid to question the old COURSE LUNCH

advice do you have for them? rules. Find your own voice, understand PREPARED BY THE
CHEFS.
It’s definitely a challenging time for young chefs your local culture deeply, and use food
— the industry is evolving fast, with rising costs, as a way to tell meaningful stories. That’s
shifting consumer habits, and a stronger push what the world is looking for today.
 • 42 •

T R AV E L / B A L I

THE RAFFLES BALI RESORT IS PERCHED ON GREEN HILLS OVERLOOKING THE SEAS OF JIMBARAN.

Barefoot luxury
Over the past decade, Bali has become synonymous with bustling tourism.
Yet, for those in search of serenity, there are still pockets of tranquillity
where the island’s natural beauty and heritage remain unspoiled.
BY ERIS CHOO

T
he sun is bright beneath my eyelids, and a gentle Bali’s Secret Cave — a natural cavern on the resort’s grounds
ocean breeze stirs my hair. “Gently place a finger reserved for meditation, wellness rituals, and private dining.
over one nostril,” my meditation guru instructs as she
guides me through nadi shodana pranayama, a breathwork Curated experiences like this are a focus at The Raffles Bali
technique designed to clear energy channels and quiet the – a sprawling, 32-villa retreat in Jimbaran that reimagines
mind. “Breathe in… and exhale.” luxury as an immersive connection with nature. Perched
atop a hill overlooking a golden shoreline, more than 70
I follow her lead, then sink onto my mat, limbs relaxed, as the percent of its 23-hectare grounds remain blanketed in lush
hum of a Tibetan singing bowl mingles with birdsong and greenery, a testament to its dedication to sustainability. A
the sound of chirping insects. When I open my eyes, it takes dry riverbed winds through the property, and instead of
a moment to remember that I am not in some otherworldly imposing on the land, villas and pathways follow the gentle
sanctuary but nestled within the cool confines of The Raffles contours of the terrain.
 • 43 •

T R AV E L / B A L I

(FROM TOP) GO ON A GUIDED BOTANICAL

TOUR; PLANTS AND HERBS FROM THE
FARM GARDEN ARE USED IN DISHES
SERVED AT THE RESORT'S RESTAURANTS;
THE SECRET CAVE IS A NATURAL NOOK
USED FOR WELLNESS RITUALS AND
PRIVATE DINING EXPERIENCES

A botanical oasis
I gain a deeper appreciation for the symbiotic
relationship between nature and wellness
during a guided Botanical Tour of the premises.
Led by Indira Saraswati, Raffles Bali’s landscape
manager and resident botanical guru, our
buggy glides through the verdant grounds,
with Indira pausing intermittently to point out
indigenous flora.

Fig trees, Chinese jujube, and moringa trees

dot the landscape, many of them predating the
resort’s construction. At the base of a massive
Indian ash tree, she draws my attention to a
hardened mass of sap, explaining that local
fishermen use the sap as glue for their boats.
“We wanted to preserve as much of the native
Jimbaran flora as possible,” she says. “So
instead of cutting down trees, we designed the
landscape around them or relocated them to
other parts of the property. In this way, it allows
our guests to discover local plants and how
they are used in everyday Balinese life.”

Our next stop is the resort’s Farm Garden,

where 18 varieties of herbs and medicinal
plants flourish. Here, guests can see firsthand
how ingredients travel from farm to table–or in
some cases, the spa treatment room.
Bird’s eye chilies add fire to sambal matah,
while turmeric flavours the Balinese ayam
betutu dish or jamu, the local medicinal health
elixir. Gotu kola, lemon basil, Egyptian star
cluster flowers, and torch ginger are grown
here as well. All these ingredients find their way
into breakfast spreads, satisfying lunches and
scrumptious dinners at the resort’s restaurants
and bar.
 • 44 •

T R AV E L / B A L I

CHEF GAETAN BIESUZ

Conscious dining
Dining-wise, The Raffles Bali takes pride in its sustainable culinary ritual that sets the tone for the multi-course dining experience
practices. The resort follows an 80/20 sourcing principle: over curated by Chef Gaetan Biesuz. Each dish on the menu pays
80 percent of ingredients are procured from local farmers, homage to a different region in Bali. From West Sumatra,
fishermen, and producers across Bali and neighbouring islands, a delicate mud crab is elevated by the heat of green chilli,
while imports are limited to only what is essential. jicama, and ginger flower.

We see this in action over an eight-step dinner at Rumari, Next, the Baturiti course spotlights heritage pork from
The Raffles Bali’s all-day fine dining restaurant. The name is a George Organic Black Heritage Pig Farm, accompanied by
portmanteau of the Indonesian words Rumah (house), Purnama chayote, curry leaf, and laksa. French-born and raised Chef
(full moon), and Matahari (sun), which fits the kind of progressive- Gaetan infuses his expertise into the Balinese classic babi
meets-heritage Indonesian and Southeast Asian cuisine it serves. guling, served with fromage, cheeks chicharrón, and a salted
egg and bacon emulsion.
The evening begins with a hand washing ceremony, a Balinese

(CLOCKWISE FROM TOP) BATURITI USES HERITAGE PORK

FROM A LOCAL PIG FARM; THE RESORT FOLLOWS AN 80/20
SOURCING PRINCIPLE FOR ITS INGREDIENTS; THE ELEGANT
YET COSY SETTING AT RUMARI.
 • 45 •

T R AV E L / B A L I

Other highlights include Sibang, which features Bubuh Bali, a fragrant pandan rice
a crayfish chawanmushi layered with the warmth porridge served with tuna sambal
of Padang curry and heirloom tomatoes, and matah and Balinese spicy vegetables.
Negara, an unexpected surf-and-turf pairing of The Soto Ayam Kudus pays tribute
organic duck egg, coconut, and Kristal Caviar to Indonesia's classic flavours, while
Maison Kaviari. The contrast of silky confit duck the 60-degree Organic Tabanan duck
yolk and the briny pop of caviar made for an egg, paired with multigrain toast,
intriguing interplay of textures and tastes. avocado, and farm-fresh gotukola
and watercress, is simple yet
Desserts at Rumari are equally impressive. impeccably executed.
The Karangasem dish pays tribute to Chef
Gaetan’s Andalusian roots and is inspired by the (CLOCKWISE FROM TOP): SIBANG PRESENTS
traditional arroz con leche, but made with rice, A SILKY CRAYFISH CHAWANMUSHI WITH
vanilla arak, and stingless bee honey. CURRY; NEGARA IS A UNIQUE SURF-AND-
TURF PAIRING; KARANGASEM ADDS A
SWEET TOUCH TO THE MENU
However, what truly stands out about our meal
for the evening is Rumari’s deep respect for its SUMATRA
HIGHLIGHTS
ingredients and the locals who procure them. THE DELICATE
Fish of the day was line caught from a Jimbaran SWEETNESS OF
fisherman called Pak Oka, coffee beans are LOCAL MUD
CRAB THROUGH
sourced from Wahana Boga, and the stingless CLEVER USE OF
bee honey from Mengwi, Made Cuplis, and the SPICES.
resort’s Farm Garden.

That isn’t all Rumari has to offer. Breakfast is

equally enchanting, offering a selection of light
yet satisfying dishes. For the health-conscious,
go for tuna poke, tomato tartine, and organic
eggs, or indulge in local heritage dishes like
 • 46 •

T R AV E L / B A L I

For lunch, I saunter over to Loloan Beach Bar &

Grill, which embraces the essence of island life
with Mediterranean-inspired cuisine and fresh
seafood from Jimbaran’s waters. Here, the scent
of grilled seafood mingles with the salty ocean
breeze, as I unwind with a view of the resort’s
infinity pool and the waters beyond, over wood-
fired pizzas, light bites, and locally sourced
burrata salads.

As the day winds down, The Writer's Bar offers

a place for those seeking a quiet moment,
carefully crafted cocktail in hand. Inspired by the
literary salons of yesteryear, this intimate space
invites guests to sip on signature creations like
the Bali Sling—The Raffles Bali’s own version
of the iconic Singapore Sling—which features
ingredients like soursop, lemon juice, and
jackfruit puree for a delightfully refreshing and
tropical twist.
PHOTO: PETRINA TINSLAY

(CLOCKWISE FROM TOP) LOLOAN OFFERS

A LAIDBACK VIBE WITH GORGEOUS SEA
VIEWS; ENJOY MEDITERRANEAN-INSPIRED
CUISINE AND SEAFOOD FRESH OFF THE
GRILL; THE WRITER'S BAR IS A BELOVED
RAFFLES EXPERIENCE; SIP ON A COCKTAIL
WHILE ADMIRING GREEN VISTAS OF THE HILLS
SURROUNDING THE RESORT.
 • 47 •

T R AV E L / B A L I

Sanctuary of sustainability As Jimbaran continues to evolve under the weight

It’s clear that sustainability is at the heart of The of tourism, Raffles Bali offers an opportunity to
Raffles Bali’s dining ethos – but it also extends to dive into the island’s true essence as a place of
every facet of the resort. There is no single-use stillness and natural beauty. Here, the pace slows,
plastic on the resort’s grounds: instead, beverages and the sounds of nature take precedence over
use cassava-based straws. Within the villas, you’ll the hum of modernity. It’s a place for those who
find ceramic bathroom dispensers, rattan baskets seek a retreat that emphasises connection: with
and beach bags, and motion-sensor lighting, the land, with tradition, and with oneself.
all carefully chosen to minimise environmental
impact. Water from the villas as well as the
kitchen is recycled for irrigating the resort’s
gardens, minimising the need to bring in fresh
water, which is scarce in Jimbaran.

No place can thrive without the support of (FROM TOP) THE

the local community, which is why the resort RESORT'S VILLAS
ARE DESIGNED WITH
uplifts them by partnering with local artisans SUSTAINABILITY
to celebrate Indonesia’s rich artistic tradition. IN MIND WITH NO
The Sumatran Carved Pillar in the lobby draws SINGLE-USE PLASTICS
AND ECO-FRIENDLY
inspiration from traditional woodcarvings FEATURES LIKE
found in Nuwo Sesat, the traditional houses of MOTION-SENSOR
Lampung, while Singa-Singa carvings, historically LIGHTING; VILLAS
COME WITH THEIR
placed on Batak houses for spiritual protection, OWN GARDENS LUSH
can be found throughout the resort. WITH LOCAL FLORA.
 • 48 •

T R AV E L / B A N G KO K

Plated with purpose

Culinary experiences at Siam@Siam Bangkok begin with
knowing where everything comes from, and why it matters.
B Y J O C E LY N TA N
 • 49 •

T R AV E L / B A N G KO K

W
hat does it mean to dine with intention? At Siam@Siam Design Hotel Bangkok, it means
looking beyond the plate to understand where ingredients come from, who produces
them, and how they shape the culinary experience. The hotel’s commitment to working
closely with independent farmers, artisans, and producers ensures that every meal at its restaurants
and bar resonates with meaning.

TAAN’S MENU IS A JOURNEY

THROUGH THAI TERROIR

A fine-dining love letter to Thai producers

Perched on the 25th floor, TAAN is where Chef Monthep “Thep”
Kamolsilp orchestrates a thoughtful dialogue between the kitchen
and the countryside. Years spent building relationships with
farmers and fishermen who share his commitment to sustainability
and seasonality have shaped his ingredient-led approach. Each
component is selected with care, ensuring it contributes to a
harmonious and expressive whole.

The Thai native, who was trained in French cuisine, now specialises
in Thai cuisine, which he believes is ever-evolving. “Across our
five-year journey, our team has developed significantly in both
thought and technique. This year, on top of working with local
farmers who share our sustainable philosophy, we wanted to
create a menu that reflects our evolving ideas and techniques to
offer a full-flavoured experience that guests love.”
CHEF THEP
 • 50 •

T R AV E L / B A N G KO K

The menu unfolds as a journey through Thai terroir. For

instance, Wonder Sushi reimagines Tang Mo Pla Yang,
a summer snack of grilled fish and watermelon, into a
playful bite of sun-dried sea bass and magnolia-infused
jasmine rice sorbet. A dish called Saline Garden features
a garden of sea salicornia paired with freshwater grouper
and catfish, enhanced by shallot, chilli, and galangal. It’s
spicy, sour, and savoury all at once. Even the familiar boat
noodle is transformed: hand-cut pork noodles float in a
richly emulsified broth laced with chocolate to create an
emulsion that’s used to substitute pork blood. It’s bold
yet rooted in tradition.

One of the standouts is the Loei Gnocchi, a dish that

underscores TAAN’s commitment to sustainability through
innovation. Here, Chef Thep turns the invasive blackchin
tilapia — often considered a nuisance in Thai freshwater
systems — into something elegant and purposeful.
“To me, the issue isn’t with the fish, but with how it is
perceived. Blackchin tilapia is often viewed as invasive, but
it can be transformed into a delicious and environmentally
responsible dish.” The fish is served with Dong Dang
noodles and a fermented fish emulsion, complete with
burnt lime. The dish is a tribute to the northeastern

CHEF THEP ENSURES THAT HE

WORKS WITH LOCAL FARMERS
WHO SHARE THE SAME
SUSTAINABLE PHILOSOPHY.

province of Loei, drawing on local preservation techniques and

bold, punchy flavours to transform an environmental challenge
into a thoughtful expression of place.

Every plate reflects a network of dedicated producers. Free-range

chickens from Tan Khun Organic Farm in Chiang Mai, wagyu from
NK Wagyu Sri Chiang Mai, and biodynamic pork from Thawee
Farm in Khon Kaen – all speak to Chef Thep’s belief that sourcing
is as integral as execution.

That same care extends to the beverage programme. A water

tasting experience invites diners to sample spring and mineral
waters from around Thailand — crisp, calcium-rich Sai Yok Springs
in Kanchanaburi, or the subtly sweet Huang Nam Khao in Trat.
“We’re proud to serve a variety of waters sourced from different
regions of Thailand, each with distinct characteristics to accentuate
your meal,” says the TAAN team. It’s a small detail, but one that
deepens the connection between plate, palate, and place.
 • 51 •

T R AV E L / B A N G KO K

Sipping & Savouring with Purpose

On the hotel’s ground floor, Chim Chim brings a different
energy. It’s casual, colourful, and art-filled — but no less
thoughtful in its approach to provenance. Coffee beans come
from Roots, one of Thailand’s leading specialty roasters. Tea is
sourced from Monsoon Tea, known for wild-grown, chemical-
free leaves. The chocolate in Chim Chim’s hot cocoa comes
from Kad Kokoa, a Thai brand championing single-origin cacao.

This respect for ingredients plays out across the menu. Chim
Chim’s sourdough pizzas, with a 48-hour fermentation process,
develop a deep tang and satisfying chew — perfect for
toppings like truffle mushroom and rocket. Of course, there
are plenty of Thai flavours here. The Kra Pao is a harmonious
marriage of marinara, cheese, fried egg, Thai chillies, holy
basil and minced meat, laden generously on top of the chewy
sourdough pizzas. Besides pizzas, the likes of burgers, pastas
and steaks are also available on the menu. CHIM CHIM
BRINGS CASUAL
ENERGY TO THE
The Land of Smiles also shines through in the wine list.
LOCALE.
Siam@Siam Bangkok’s venues, including TAAN and Paradise
Lost, spotlight bottles from Thailand’s emerging vineyards. elegant expressions of tropical terroir. Set on rolling farmland
GranMonte Winery and Issara Winery, both in Khao Yai, offer surrounded by forested hills, the Issara’s commitment to
sustainability is evident in everything from its organically
grown vegetables to its house-made jams and cheeses.

Meanwhile, GranMonte’s Chenin Blanc brings bright acidity

and hints of pineapple and citrus, pairing well with seafood.
Issara’s Syrah Rosé delivers berry-forward freshness — ideal
for dishes with a spicy edge. These local wines aren’t just
novelties; they’re thoughtful companions to the food,
reinforcing the hotel’s belief that provenance isn’t just about
food — it’s about a fully rooted experience.

ISSARA ESTATES IN
KHAO YAI IS A SECOND-
GENERATION FAMILY-RUN
WINERY AND RESTAURANT
WITH A COMMITMENT TO
SUSTAINABILITY.
 • 52 •

T R AV E L / B A N G KO K

ENJOY SUNSET VIEWS AT PARADISE LOST WHILE SIPPING ON COCKTAILS THAT DRAW INSPIRATION FROM THAILAND’S
NATURAL BOUNTY.

In the evenings, Paradise Lost beckons from the

rooftop. With its lush, neon-tropical vibe and
panoramic skyline views, it feels like an escape — but
one grounded in place. Cocktails here draw inspiration
from Thailand’s natural bounty. The Death From
Above — a mix of tequila, passion fruit and ginger
syrup, sparkling wine and pineapple juice — is bright
and effervescent. This translates to the non-alcoholic
glasses too: think lemongrass, kaffir lime, pineapple
peel infusion, watermelon syrup and soda in Tropical.

The bar’s ethos also goes beyond the cocktails.

Paradise Lost partners with Bootleggers Trading
to implement ecoSPIRITS, a system that drastically
reduces packaging waste in the premium spirits supply
chain. Even the glassware tells a story, crafted from
repurposed rice husks and upcycled plastic.

For diners, this philosophy translates into an

experience that’s layered, thoughtful, and immersive.
Whether you’re enjoying a dish of reimagined Thai
street food at TAAN, a slow-fermented pizza at Chim
Chim, or a rooftop cocktail laced with local botanicals at
Paradise Lost, the thread that binds it all is provenance.
And at Siam@Siam Bangkok, provenance isn’t just
about where the ingredients come from — it’s about
why they matter.
Off the grid
These Metro Manila restaurants are
deliberately located off the beaten path —
proof that discerning diners will always go
the distance for a great meal.
B Y J AC LY N C L E M E N T E KO P PE
 • 54 •

FOOD / MANILA

W
here do people eat these days? In a part of town more known for its car shops
and hardware stores. Underneath an ice cream factory. Or perhaps behind
a secret door, in a restaurant inside another restaurant. Lately, chefs and
restauranteurs have been opting for areas with more personality and je ne sais quoi instead of
central and prime locations (which come with astronomical rental, of course).

Metro Manila is teeming with new food and beverage establishments that even if you
find yourself lost in one of its less-explored side streets, you might unknowingly discover
a hidden gem. Still, these three haunts — waist-deep in character and talent eager to
explore singular experiences with their diners — are truly worth seeking out.

(ABOVE) INTERIOR DESIGNER JJ ACUÑA GAVE CELERA A TOUCH OF DRAMA USING SHADOWS AND TEXTURES INSPIRED
BY ITS INDUSTRIAL LOCATION; (BELOW) CELERA’S CHEF NICCO SANTOS

Celera: Growing into their new space

After years in the restaurant business opening various concepts
together (Hey, Handsome, Sambar, Aurora, among others),
chefs Nicco Santos and Quenee Vilar found themselves in an
existential junction. “There comes a time in life that you ask:
What is the point of all this?,” Santos candidly expresses. “While
I have enjoyed all these years cooking and putting together
concepts in the past, I have met my true self in Celera.” Derived
from the Malay word “selera” meaning taste or appetite, Santos
calls this new venture “a continuous exploration of self.” The
contemporary Asian cuisine they prepare stems from not only
the life journey of Santos and Vilar, but of the whole team as a
collective, breathing life into their unique story.
(ABOVE) BEEF TARTARE ENRICHED WITH BONE MARROW ON OBHA LEAF TEMPURA; DUCK AND CHICKEN MEATBALLS WITH SLIVERS OF STRAWBERRY.

Their initial offering is rich with Asian flavours and refined by classical cooking
techniques. Creations include somen of glass noodles made from reduced shrimp
heads; a Peking duck and chicken meatball skewered in pine branch and topped with
strawberries harkening back to Santos’ summers in mountainous Baguio City; and a
perfectly roasted quail served with a dense jus from its bones that shows deftness in
the handling of delicate game meat.

The restaurant is located within Comuna, which is a creative hub built in the
more industrial part of Makati City, a place where Santos feels breeds the kind of
expressiveness they want in Celera. The restaurant designed by Hong Kong and
Manila-based interior designer JJ Acuña boasts an open kitchen that feels like a
hearth, its textures and inclinations provoked by the innate character of its location.
“We knew from early on, we wanted a unique space that is off-grid, but at the same
time accessible. It’s such a bonus that this building where Celera is – is now a home to
a thriving community. We love where we are, and we can’t say that enough.”

Right now, the team is focused on finding their footing around their new space,
coming up with thoughtful ways to engage diners every night. Come August, they
have something new to offer guests to celebrate their six months of operations. “In
the meantime, come join us for dinner,” invites Santos. CELERA’S BROODING INTERIORS MAKE
FOR A SULTRY BACKDROP TO MAKATI’S
https://restaurantcelera.com/ STRIKING SKYLINE.
 • 56 •

FOOD / MANILA

NOW NOW’S WIDE KITCHEN WINDOWS ALLOWS DINERS A PEEK INTO THE ACTION.

Now Now Canteen: Experimenting with slow food

“Sustainability” is quite the buzz word these days, giving
rise to a whole new concept: lab-to-table. These are
coming from chefs and restauranteurs who want to find
new ways to extract flavours from ingredients, prolonging
their lifespan, and perhaps utilising parts that are normally
thrown away. Maxine Kong, CEO of Now Now Canteen,
explains how they are doing their part serving Asian
comfort food in their fermentation-forward concept
with husband Bryan Kong, director of fermentation and
creative director. “We serve things like koji-marinated
chicken, black garlic hummus, miso mash, amazake
lemonades — and even our cookies and cocktails are
crafted from a pantry of housemade shoyus, cheongs
(Korean syrups) and misos,” she says. “Some ingredients
are aged for weeks, others for months. All of them are JARS CONTAINING FERMENTS, SYRUPS, SAUCES, AND INFUSIONS
designed to surprise your palate in subtle, playful ways.” THAT GO INTO NOW NOW’S INNOVATIVE DISHES AND DRINKS.
 • 57 •

FOOD / MANILA

The canteen is located on the ground floor of their commissary

vœÀÕÀř“ÕVi Ài>“]œ˜iœvÌ iˆÀœÌ iÀvœœ`Vœ˜Vi«ÌÃ]Àˆ} ̈˜
Mandaluyong City — incidentally, the geographic heart of Metro
Manila. “We didn’t scout for the ‘perfect’ or ‘high foot-traffic’
spot — we simply made use of what we had. It’s a little tucked
away, a little more personal,” Kong explains. “There’s something
special about being in a quieter, less commercial pocket of the
city and watching people make the effort to find us. It creates
a different kind of energy — more intimate, more intentional.
We’ve seen neigbours turn into regulars, friends bring their
families, and curious strangers wander in and stay longer than they
planned. I like that it still feels like a working lab — one that just
happened to open its doors to diners.”

(ABOVE) ART INSTALLATION BY ARTIST CHINO YULO WHO DOES ACRYLIC BENDING. (BELOW) MAXINE AND BRYAN KONG
(LEFT AND 2ND FROM LEFT) ARE ALWAYS FINDING WAYS TO COLLABORATE WITH THEIR CREATIVE FRIENDS, BLURRING THE
LINES BETWEEN ARTISTIC GENRES AND PURSUITS; WHILE THEIR MENU IS CONSTANTLY EVOLVING, NOW NOW’S DISHES ARE
ROOTED IN THEIR PHILOSOPHY THAT FOOD IS MULTIDIMENSIONAL AND NEVER TOO SERIOUS. PHOTOS BY: MARCO LAZARO

The curious are rewarded with innovative dishes

like Now Now’s take on tortang talong (eggplant
omelette) which is dressed like an okonomiyaki;
crispy fried chicken marinated in shio koji that not
only packs in the umami but also tenderises the
meat. And there’s the bestselling udon bathe in
their house-fermented soya paste which imparts
deep flavour into the dandan noodles.

They are currently working on some limited-edition

pantry products from their fermentation lab, and
launching in May a collaboration with local artist
Isabel Reyes Santos who has moved between
Manila, Berlin, and New York and is now finding a
home in Now Now. “If you know her practice, you’ll
know it’s layered, bold, and multidimensional —
much like the food we serve.”

https://nownow.ph/
 • 58 •

FOOD / MANILA

(CLOCKWISE FROM
TOP) SOME OF THE
BASQUE-INSPIRED
DISHES FROM
GOXO’S FIRST MENU:
A CRAB AND UNI
UDON; ANCHOVIES
ON BRIOCHE; AND
GAMBONES, A
SEAFOOD LOVER’S
DELIGHT.

Goxo: Finding it is part of the thrill

Necessity is truly the mother of invention. When co- with much help of course from Mendoza’s clever innovations
owner Carlo Calma Lorenzana of popular Basque on Basque cuisine. The maiden menu boasts duck rillette
concept Bar Pintxos noticed there was a 30 sqm on potato pavé among its opening snacks; a clever “jamon”
space within their Salcedo Vlllage, Makati City made from cured talakitok processed longer than usual until
branch, whose rent was not commensurate to their it resembles the texture and translucence of jamon; and an
sales, they decided to come up with a new concept. irresistible uni and crab udon to give the meal more heft.
“A restaurant within a restaurant,” he says. The favourite among the main courses called “gambones”
brings together scallops, prawns, and potatoes enriched
Goxo (which means “delicious” in Basque) is a with a split pea and bravas sauce.
12-seater, bar asador restaurant offering a prix
fixe menu that is inspired by their travels around “Our menu is a reflection of our combined experiences in
Spain, sprinkled with global influences. This is the our respective travels around the world, exposures, and
brainchild of the restaurant’s executive chef Albert preferences through the lens of Spanish cuisine, given
Mendoza. It was also meant to add an exciting that our group’s focus is everything Spanish,” explains
new dimension to the decade-old Bar Pintxos Lorenzana. “So we put everything in the mix and chose
concept, specifically to the centrally-located which would best pair well with Basque cuisine.” Unlike
branch in Salcedo Village which is prone to stiff most tasting menus, Goxo allows guests to choose
competition in the heart of the business district. between two prix fixe menus, and then pick a main course.
After a successful first run, they are launching their new
The chef’s table, hidden behind a secret door, has menu mid-May which is currently in the latter stages of
truly drawn in guests with its drama and mystery, research and development.
The last sip
of Shōwa
A journey through Tokyo’s vintage kissaten.
TEXT & PHOTOS BY CK
 • 60 •

T R AV E L / TO K Y O

THE DARK GREEN LEATHER CHAIR, SOFTENED BY

TIME, NOW SHINES WITH A RICH PATINA YET REMAINS
ELEGANTLY STRUCTURED.

each with its own floral motif. Behind the counter,

TOMATO-BASED CURRY RICE WITH SUCCULENT PORK an apron-clad barista meticulously polishes a copper
SIMMERED IN A WELL-BALANCED SPICED SAUCE. siphon pot, its gleaming surface a testament to
decades of devoted use.

“Irasshaimase,” comes the warm, steady greeting – a

T
he creak of a weathered glass door, the ritual unchanged for half a century.
chime of a bell – in an instant, you’ve
slipped through decades, entering a Japan’s kissaten are more than just coffee shops; they are
̈“iV>«ÃՏiœv/œŽÞœ½Ã- ŦÜ>iÀ>­£™ÓÈq£™n™®° cultural artifacts, reflecting the nation’s complex history
Tucked away in the city’s shitamachi (old of Western influence and domestic reinvention. Born in
downtown) alleys, these kissaten – traditional the Meiji era (1868–1912), as Japan opened to the world,
Japanese coffeehouses – remain sanctuaries they flourished in the mid-20th century, becoming hubs
of slow living, where every detail whispers of a for artists, writers, and intellectuals. Unlike today’s sleek
bygone age. cafés – with their single-origin pour-overs and minimalist
aesthetics, kissaten prioritise atmosphere and tradition.
Inside, the air is thick with the rich aroma of Here, coffee is brewed slowly, often with a cloth filter, and
dark roasted coffee and the mellow strains of served in delicate porcelain alongside a glass of water and
jazz or classical music. Sunlight filters through a tiny spoon.
lace curtains, casting soft shadows on well-worn
leather booths, their deep brown patina polished For travellers seeking the 'real' Tokyo, beyond neon and
smooth by generations of patrons. On the walls, bullet trains, these cafés are essential stops. After all,
wooden shelves display delicate china cups, some flavours can’t be replicated, only preserved.
 • 61 •

T R AV E L / TO K Y O

(CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT)

THE CRISP BLACK-AND-
WHITE UNIFORMS ARE
A QUINTESSENTIAL
STAPLE OF JAPANESE
KISSATEN; ON THE
WOODEN SHELVES,
VINTAGE COFFEE CUPS
TAKE PRIDE OF PLACE,
EACH ONE ADORNED
WITH ITS OWN
DISTINCTIVE FLORAL
MOTIF.

310.COFFEE: Porcelain, perfection &

the pursuit of Tokyo’s ideal cup
Tucked away in Ginza’s labyrinthine backstreets, 310.
COFFEE is a favoured spot for coffee aficionados
and seekers of understated elegance. This intimate
café marries the precision of specialty coffee with the
quiet refinement of Japanese café culture. spiced sauce and draped over flawlessly textured rice.
Bathed in soft natural light and accompanied by the
The velvety and rich Mandheling single-origin finds gentle strains of classical music, the 35-seater exudes an
its perfect companion in the house-made coffee air of unhurried sophistication. Whether you're in search
jelly – a delicate, bittersweet indulgence. For those of Tokyo’s finest cup or a tranquil respite from the city’s
craving complexity, the Rwanda Demitasse unfolds bustle, 310.COFFEE delivers both with quiet mastery.
with layered notes, a testament to the barista’s A must-visit for those who appreciate the art of coffee,
exacting craft. Beyond the brew served in exquisite served with Ginza’s signature poise.
porcelain, the tomato-based pork curry rice is highly
satisfying. Think: succulent pork simmered in a GINZA ISONO Building 1F, 7-11-6 Ginza, Chuo-ku, Tokyo
 • 62 •

T R AV E L / TO K Y O

(LEFT TO RIGHT) DARK WOOD, SOFT

CHANDELIER LIGHT, AND SHELVES OF
DELICATE MEISSEN PORCELAIN SET
THE SCENE, EVOKING THE REFINED
KISSATEN CULTURE OF MID-CENTURY
TOKYO; A MATCH MADE IN HEAVEN:
THE BERGAMOT ZING OF EARL GREY
SWISS ROLL ELEVATES THE COFFEE’S
VELVETY DARKNESS.

Café Kazuma: Takeshi Kitano’s hidden haven

Since 1983, Antique Café Kazuma has been a haven
for coffee purists, art lovers, and nostalgia seekers.
Dark wood, soft chandelier light, and shelves of
delicate Meissen porcelain set the scene.

Kazuma’s hand-drip coffee is the stuff of legend,

showcasing rarities like Jamaican Blue Mountain and
meticulously crafted house blends. For the perfect
accompaniment, indulge in their Earl Grey Swiss roll
– a sublime pairing where the citrusy kiss of bergamot
complements the coffee’s velvety depth.

The café also serves as an unofficial shrine to

Takeshi Kitano; its walls adorned with the acclaimed
filmmaker’s whimsical, childlike paintings. Regulars
speak in hushed tones of his occasional visits, still
drawn to his preferred corner, as if the space itself
holds a quiet magnetism.

In a city relentlessly chasing the future, Kazuma

remains a defiant love letter to Tokyo’s vanishing
kissaten culture. Here, every sip, every glance, every
TAKESHI KITANO'S PLAYFUL, CHILDLIKE PAINTINGS HAVE moment of stillness is imbued with history.
TURNED CAFÉ KAZUMA INTO AN UNOFFICIAL PILGRIMAGE
SITE FOR FANS OF THE ICONIC FILMMAKER.
5-7-19 Ginza, Ginza Folly Building 4F, Chuo-ku, Tokyo
 • 63 •

T R AV E L / TO K Y O

THE MUST-TRY TOKYO COFFEE ROLL CAKE

FEATURES A SWIRL OF ESPRESSO-INFUSED
CREAM WRAPPED IN A FEATHERLIGHT SPONGE.

Coffee & Cake SHU: Premium Shibuya

Ekimae - a secret alchemy
Just steps from the whirl of Shibuya Station is this well-
kept secret – a moody, mahogany-clad space where time THE METICULOUSLY CRAFTED SIPHON COFFEE
IS A BLEND OF PRECISION AND RICH FLAVOUR.
slows and coffee is treated as high art. Sink into plush
burgundy banquettes and watch the city’s relentless
energy unfold through arched windows – all while
sipping some of Tokyo’s most meticulously crafted brews.

The star here is the siphon coffee: a theatrical display

of brass and flame yielding cups of the Monthly
Harvest Coffee – bright, complex, and layered. For
those who prefer their caffeine with a darker edge, the
Premium Bitter is a masterclass in smoky depth.

Indeed, Cafe Shu is a place of indulgence. A must-

try is the Tokyo Coffee Roll Cake featuring a swirl of
espresso-infused cream and featherlight sponge.

When hunger calls, the Chicken Omurice delivers

pure comfort – a wobbly, golden omelette draped
over fragrant rice. It’s the kind of dish that makes you GLEAMING MAHOGANY
pause, exhale, and remember why Tokyo’s café culture FURNISHINGS AND RETRO
remains unmatched. SIGNS TRANSPORT YOU
TO TOKYO'S OASIS OF
UNDERSTATED ELEGANCE
2-29-3 Dogenzaka, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo AND NOSTALGIC CHARM.
 • 64 •

T R AV E L / TO K Y O

(CLOCKWISE FROM
LEFT) TOP COFFEE
WRAPS YOU IN ITS
TIME-WORN CHARM
WITH SWIRLS OF
FRESHLY BREWED
STEAM AND THE
EARTHY WHISPER OF
VINTAGE CIGARETTES
LINGERING TOGETHER
IN COMFORTING
NOSTALGIA; A THICK
SLICE OF BUTTERY
SHOKUPAN TOPPED
WITH OIL-CURED
HIROSHIMA OYSTERS
IS THE STAR DISH
HERE.

Top Coffee Shibuya:

oyster toast and the patina of time into decadence with a whisky highball (trust us,
The patina of decades lingers on wooden booths, the it’s excellent).
counter gleams like a well-kept secret. Time slows here.
Yes, the air hums with vintage, vaguely sweet
The Oyster Toast is sublime – a fat slice of shokupan, tobacco, clinging to jackets and mingling with
crisp-golden at the edges, heaped with oil-cured coffee steam. Come at dawn to claim the stillness,
Hiroshima oysters and complemented by a swipe of or at dusk to dissolve into the amber glow. Either
mayo plus a squeeze of lemon. It shouldn’t work, yet way, you’ll leave a little heavier, in the best way.
it does. The toast crunches, the oysters dissolve, the
citrus offsets the richness. Pair it with Sumiyaki coffee – 2-3-1 Dogenzaka Hachiko Ekimae Bldg. B1F,
its charred bitterness a shadowy counterpoint – or lean Shibuya 150-0043 Tokyo
 • 65 •

T R AV E L / TO K Y O

Depot Cafe & Bar: A jazz-lit reverie in Tokyo’s pulse

Depot Cafe & Bar is a hidden gem where vintage jazz (think Miles Davis
or Billie Holiday), pudding, and good vibes converge. The warm glow of
Edison bulbs casts flickering light over wooden countertops, while the
rich, velvety tones of jazz vinyl spin on a turntable.

Depot’s true pièce de resistance? The legendary caramel pudding – a

silken custard so impeccably balanced, with a caramel layer just bitter
enough to cut through the sweetness, that it has earned a cult following
among Tokyo’s dessert connoisseurs. Pair it with a dark roasted hand-
dripped coffee or a nightcap of Japanese whisky – you won’t regret it.

The Signature Tokyo Neapolitan Pasta reimagines the classic with

its bold, textured approach. Its noodles – made by Asakusa Kaikaro,
a revered Tokyo noodle maker – deliver a satisfying thickness and
resilient chew, setting them apart from the typical softness of traditional
Neapolitan pasta.
VINTAGE EDISON BULBS AND CURATED
JAZZ VINYL ADD TO DEPOT CAFÉ & BAR’S
1-9-1 Gransta B1F, Marunouchi, Chiyoda 110-0005 Tokyo EFFORTLESSLY COOL VIBE.

DEPOT CAFÉ & BAR—A QUIET REBELLION AGAINST TOKYO STATION’S CHAOS — SERVES ESPRESSO BY DAY AND NEGRONIS BY NIGHT;
THE LEGENDARY CARAMEL PUDDING HAS EARNED A CULT FOLLOWING AMONG TOKYO'S DESSERT CONNOISSEURS.
 • 66 •

T R AV E L

Signature views
From Venice and Munich to Tokyo, these wining and dining spaces offer extraordinary
vistas and vantage points. With the arrival of spring and summer, some of their terraces
are all set to welcome guests to unwind and linger over meals and cocktails.
B Y A M Y VA N
 • 67 •

T R AV E L

(CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT) DINE ON THE BREATHTAKING TERRACE OVERLOOKING THE GRAND
CANAL, THE LARGEST CHANNEL IN VENICE, WHICH FORMS ONE OF THE CITY'S MAJOR WATER-
TRAFFIC CORRIDORS. GIO'S ELEGANT AND PLUSH INTERIORS; SAVOUR GIO'S RED TUNA SASHIMI.

The magic of Venice

Set against a backdrop unlike any other, The St. Regis Across the canal, the magnificent Santa Maria della Salute
Venice offers a front-row seat to the city's ever- Basilica, Venice’s first and most iconic Baroque monument,
changing beauty. The views transform throughout stands sentinel alongside the triangular-shaped Punta della
the day from dusk to dawn. When the morning mist Dogana. The latter, once a centuries-old customs house,
clears, the Grand Canal comes to life with the gentle now houses a contemporary art museum. It was restored
rhythm of gondolas and vaporetti (water taxi) drifting in 2009 by Japanese architect Tadao Ando and converted
past. On warmer days, the gilded glow of sunset into an exhibition space.
reflects on the shimmering water.
Gio’s, the hotel's signature restaurant, recently launched
new à la carte and tasting menus highlighting Italy's
regional flavours. Gio’s is named after San Giorgio
Maggiore, the culture-rich island across the Grand Canal,
renowned for its dedication to preserving Italian heritage.

Executive Chef Giuseppe Ricci, a native of Puglia who has

long called Veneto home, expertly marries the bold, sun-
drenched flavours of the south with the elegant, nuanced
tastes of the north.

Savour refined dishes like delicate fish crudo, troccoli pasta

with native cuttlefish in a walnut sauce, and monograno
mezzi paccheri, spiced and laced with blue lobster and
anise-scented bisque. Regional highlights include Garronese
Veneta beef, charcoal-grilled octopus, and lagoon seabass in
a rich anchovy sauce. End the meal with gin-infused brioche
with lemon ganache and juniper gelato, or dark chocolate
soufflé paired with almond gelato and pear compote.
 • 68 •

T R AV E L

IN THE EVENINGS, SIP COCKTAILS ON THE TERRACE; GINORI 1735'S NEW COLLECTION WAS RECENTLY LAUNCHED; WARMER WEATHER
BECKONS GUESTS TO DINE OUTDOORS.

At the adjoining The St. Regis Bar, you can enjoy vibrant
sunset or rose-coloured cocktails (think: red negroni or
refreshing orange spritz) topped with stellar views of
the waterscape. Guests can also choose to sit at the
terrace in warmer weather. Ginori Terrace is the charming
outdoor extension of The St. Regis Bar. Complementing
the all-day menu by Chef Giuseppe is a bespoke
selection of Italian cocktails, crafted by The St. Regis
Bar's team of mixologists.

In April, the hotel in collaboration with Ginori 1735,

celebrated the restyling of the terrace. The first Ginori 1735
Terrace at The St. Regis Venice debuted in 2023, marking
the beginning of a collaboration that has since expanded
into a global partnership. The current design features
curated pieces from Ginori 1735’s brand-new Oriente
Italiano collection in the colours Castagna brown and
Meringa beige, including porcelain pieces as well as the
fabrics of table runners, cushions, and parasols.

For a nightcap, head over to the Arts Bar whose avant-

garde selection of art-inspired modern and classic
cocktails is served in a plush setting. The seasonal
cocktails are inspired by artists from Monet to Banksy
who have helped shape the culture of Venice.
 • 69 •

T R AV E L

On the ninth floor, the hotel’s signature restaurant Greta Oto

PHOTOS: KOENIGSHOF, A LUXURY
COLLECTION HOTEL, MUNICH
affords sweeping views over the city’s rooftops and the historic
Karlsplatz, known as Stachus. This bustling square, established in
the 18th century after the demolition of the medieval city walls,
comes alive in summer. The grand fountain in the centre is a
popular gathering point for locals and visitors alike.

Greta Oto’s menu features South American flavours such as tacos,

tostadas, and ceviche marinated in leche de tigre. For heartier
appetites, there are dishes like beef ribs with Peruvian slaw, soft
tacos with salsa roja, grilled octopus, and tender pork belly.

As evening falls, the restaurant transforms with a sultry energy,

making it one of Munich’s most stylish dining destinations.

When the weather warms, the Greta Oto Terrace becomes

the perfect perch to enjoy the city’s panorama. Starting 1 May,
Munich’s modern landmark the terrace menu will feature relaxed fare, including seafood
Contemporary architecture meets the spirit of Bavarian tradition cocktail, cured roast beef with marinated herbs and caramelised
at Koenigshof, a Luxury Collection Hotel, Munich. Designed by butter, and Gillardeau oysters with jalapeño salsa and chilli
architectural firm Nieto Sobejano Arquitectos, the striking hotel ponzu. Sip on a special edition Koenigshof Bellini or a classic
takes pride of place in the heart of Munich. pisco sour, and take in Munich's vista from this angle.

(FROM TOP) SOAK IN THE SUNSHINE ON THE HOTEL'S TERRACE; GRETA OTO
OVERLOOKS MUNICH'S HISTORIC SQUARE AND PALACE OF JUSTICE.
 • 70 •

T R AV E L

(CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT) JANU GRILL OFFERS VIEWS OF TOKYO TOWER AND BEYOND;
HU JING'S PLUSH SETTING; DINE ON A RANGE OF MODERN CANTONESE SPECIALTIES AT HU JING.

Tokyo’s new enclave Hu Jing’s unique interiors fuse elegance with a nod to tradition.
The sophisticated Janu Tokyo in the Azabudai A calming palette of light beige and grey is accented by red
Hills district boasts a bar and seven superb lacquered walls, Shanghai-style brickwork, and bamboo detailing.
restaurants offering a range of cuisines from An open show kitchen brings the culinary theatre to life, while four
Italian to Japanese and Chinese. private dining rooms offer intimate settings for special occasions.

On the fifth floor is Hu Jing, whose authentic

Cantonese creations are served against a
backdrop overlooking the revitalised area that
used to boast mainly offices. Today, a different
side of Tokyo is revealed – a “modern urban
village” where culture, art, and nature converge
amid striking modern architecture.

Home to luxury boutiques such as Tokyo’s largest

Hermès store, along with Dior and Cartier and
others, Azabudai Hills was conceived by the Mori
Building Company and unveiled in late 2023.
Elevated walkways and landscaped paths invite
leisure exploration. They are anchored by the
soaring Mori JP Tower – the tallest building in
the metropolis.
 • 71 •

T R AV E L

HU JING ON THE FIFTH FLOOR OF JANU

TOKYO OVERLOOKS THE REVITALISED
AZABUDAI HILLS NEIGHBOURHOOD.

The highlight of Hu Jing’s menu is the

signature Peking duck, meticulously
roasted in the restaurant’s custom-built
kiln. Crafted by Head Chef Yusuke
Yamaguchi, the contemporary Cantonese
menu showcases refined dishes such as
wok-fried lobster with ginger and spring
greens, alongside a diverse selection of
meat and fresh seafood specialities as well
as dim sum.

Meanwhile, the hotel’s Janu Grill offers a

different kind of setting. The expansive
dining room is designed around a
dramatic show kitchen, with 180-degree
views of the iconic Tokyo Tower. With its
blackened steel bar, dark leather accents,
and sophisticated atmosphere, Janu Grill
evokes the energy of New York City with
a distinctly Tokyo edge. There are two
private dining rooms for up to 20 guests
and a dedicated bar to boot.

Here, prime cuts and exceptional seafood

take centre stage. Indulge in Shimane
Prefecture Matsunaga beef sirloin,
premium Japanese and USDA beef, and
the freshest seafood sourced daily from
Toyosu Market. Wine lovers can check out
the two impressive cellars housing over
2,300 bottles. Janu Grill also welcomes
hotel guests for breakfast, served in the
same vibrant space that transitions from
morning light to evening allure.
THE OUTDOOR COURTYARD OF NOSE-TO-TAIL RESTAURANT
GUT PURBACH BY CHEF MAX STIEGL. PHOTO: GUT PURBACH

Drive and Dine

With Austria’s Michelin stars now shining beyond Vienna and Salzburg, we hit the highways
and backroads to uncover culinary pit stops in the countryside that are well worth a detour.
BY KAREN TEE

T
o loosely paraphrase a Shakespearean play, it was a
midwinter’s fever dream. A pig’s head and glistening
hunks of pork dangle on a medieval-looking rack; its
bits — brain, kidney, liver and testicles — are displayed in
bowls, while ruby-red blood fills a wine decanter.

Cauldrons bubble, skillets sizzle and the wintry air carries

the rich, tangy scent of offal. Chef Max Stiegl grabs the
decanter and starts dipping chunks of sourdough bread
in the fresh blood, offering tastes to those gathered
around him.

I have travelled to the nose-to-tail restaurant Gut Purbach

in Burgenland, about an hour’s drive from Vienna, just to
experience a traditional sautanz (sow’s dance). This centuries-
MAX STIEGL (RIGHT) COOKING DIFFERENT PARTS OF THE PIG
DURING THE SAUTANZ INCLUDING INTESTINE SAUSAGE AND old ritual began in rural Austria, where villages gathered to
PORK CHOPS. PHOTO: KAREN TEE cook and consume the whole hog, wasting nothing.
 • 73 •

T R AV E L / A U S T R I A

BURGENLAND IS AUSTRIA'S EASTERNMOST STATE, KNOWN FOR ITS CHARMING VILLAGES

AND WINE PRODUCTION. PHOTO: ÖSTERREICH WEIN MARKETING GMBH) / WSNA.

CHEF MAX STIEGL

HOLDING A PIG’S HEART.
PHOTO: GUT PURBACH

A humble tradition, revived

Through the course of the full-day affair,
there will be about 25 dishes to sample
ranging from the adventurous, like brains
scrambled with eggs to scrumptious crisp
fried crackling and freshly piped sausages.

Even knowing what’s in store, I balk at the

fresh blood. An Austrian guest recalls how
his father made him drink whole glasses
as a child to “make him strong”.' Instead,
I glug a generous pour of Brutal wine by
natural wine producer Christian Tsschida, a
low intervention red made predominantly
from pinot noir grapes from this region.

I fare better with liver sauteed in red wine

and kidney tossed with vinegar, schnapps
and pepper - the latter reminiscent of a
Sichuan mala stir-fry. By the time the sun
sets, I am feasting heartily on smokey
grilled chops, unctuous roast belly and
paprika-spiced sausages.

Gut Purbach’s sautanz is always festive, but

even more so on this occasion, having just
earned a Green Star in the 2025 Michelin
Guide for its sustainable practices. For
the first time since 2009, Michelin has
expanded its reach beyond Salzburg
THE PIG CARCASS (LEFT) AND THE BUTCHERED PARTS OF
and Vienna. Stiegl sees the award as a THE HOG ON DISPLAY DURING THE SAUTANZ, WHICH ONLY
recognition of his efforts in reviving this HAPPENS IN WINTER AS THE BITTER COLD KEEPS THE MEAT
food tradition, which he has been holding FRESH THROUGH THE DAY. PHOTO: GUT PURBACH (LEFT) AND
for 18 years. KAREN TEE (RIGHT)
THIS YEAR, THE MICHELIN GUIDE EXPANDED ITS COVERAGE BEYOND VIENNA AND SALZBURG TO COVER THE ENTIRE COUNTRY WITH 82
MICHELIN STARS, 33 GREEN STARS AND 43 BIB GOURMAND AWARDS FOR AUSTRIA. PHOTO: ÖSTERREICH WERBUNG/JÖRG LEHMANN

Wine and dine

More broadly, the return of the guide offers a
spotlight on the evolution of Austrian cuisine well
beyond schnitzel, sausages and Kaiserschmarrn
(torn up pancakes with compote, fresh berries
and powdered sugar). With 82 Michelin starred
restaurants sprinkled across the country - of which 67
are new - it provides a useful starting point for a road
trip through Austria’s dynamic dining landscape. After
all, Michelin’s original mission was about fuelling the
journey, not seeking stars.

An hour from Gut Purbach is the wine region of Lower

Austria, where one of the country’s most established
chefs, Toni Morwald, has a small domain in the village
of Wagram. His restaurant Toni M was just awarded
a Michelin star and he also runs an inn, the Relais
& Chateaux Hotel am Wagram as well as Weinblick TONI MOERWALD
 • 75 •

T R AV E L / A U S T R I A

(Wine View), a bespoke dining space located on

Feuersbrunn, one of the oldest wine cellar lanes in the
region. Morwald’s farm-to-table ethos shines through
in dishes like pickled herring with Veltliner cabbage
and Maibock fillet with celeriac and black morels.

Local wines offer an ideal pairing, like the crisp

Gruner Veltliner whites from OTT Winery Bernhard,
a respected organic and biodynamic producer in
Feuersbrunn. To work up an appetite, take a short
sojourn to OTT’s vineyards and stroll through rolling
rows of vines, soaking in panoramic views of the
picturesque terraces.

Hidden gems
Even in destinations yet undiscovered by Michelin,
surprises abound. The Wachau Valley, a UNESCO
World Heritage site for its wine, is home to Melk MELK ABBEY IS THE LARGEST BAROQUE MONASTERY IN AUSTRIA.
Abbey, the largest baroque monastery in Austria. Its PHOTO: ÖSTERREICH WERBUNG / CROSS MEDIA REDAKTION

FROZEN VINES AT OTT WINERY BERNHARD IN WINTER. PHOTO: KAREN TEE

 • 76 •

T R AV E L / A U S T R I A

MELK ABBEY’S
HISTORIC
LIBRARY BOASTS
MAGNIFICENT
CEILING
FRESCOES AND
OVER 100,000
BOOKS
PHOTO:
ÖSTERREICH
WERBUNG /
CROSS MEDIA
REDAKTION

(FAR LEFT )
BENEDICTINE
MONKS
INTRODUCE
LOCAL
WINES AND
CONDUCT
A SHORT
BLESSING FOR
GUESTS.
PHOTO:
KAREN TEE

historic library with magnificent ceiling frescoes and Nearby, the Schloss Greisslerei houses a specialty
over 100,000 books are a Harry Potter scene come to grocery shop (apricot jam, a local specialty, is a good
life, but what is lesser known is that visitors can arrange souvenir) and a relaxed bistro where the chef creates
for a private onsite wine tasting, where Benedictine a pasta of the day based on seasonal produce. We
monks introduce wines cultivated from the abbey’s dined on a pungently delicious wild black garlic
vineyards. To cap off the experience, a monk bestows pesto tossed in a homemade pasta, specially created
a short blessing in a heartwarming ritual that feels like a with a multitude of ribbons and folds designed to
spiritual toast to the journey ahead. soak up the intense umami of the sauce.
THE SIGNATURE SCHLOSS RESTAURANT AT THE RECENTLY OPENED ROSEWOOD SCHLOSS FUSCHL FEATURES ELEVATED DISHES THAT
HIGHLIGHT REGIONAL INCREDIENTS LIKE TARTARE OF FAISTENAUER GALLOWAY BEEF WITH SALZBURG STURGEON (BELOW LEFT) AND
CURED FILLET OF SALMON TROUT FROM THE CASTLE FISHERY (BELOW RIGHT) PHOTOS: AMELIE NIEDERBUCHNER

Taste of the alpine

For a change of scenery, the Schloss Restaurant at
the newly opened Rosewood Schloss Fuschl offers
old-world grandeur. Perched on the edge of a
tranquil lake and surrounded by the Austrian Alps,
the historic castle situated 30 minutes from Salzburg
was once an aristocratic hunting lodge and has now
been transformed into an elegant luxury hotel.

Head chef Julian Schwamberger showcases the

surrounding Salzkammergut region with dishes
like cured salmon trout from the castle fishery with
buttermilk, kohlrabi and horseradish, and tartare of
beef with Salzburg sturgeon.

For now, the restaurant remains a well-kept secret,

known mostly to discerning locals and in-the-know
guests. But with its unwavering commitment to
elevating local cuisine, it may not stay under the radar
for long - especially now that Michelin’s ever-watchful
inspectors have taken note of the country’s evolving
culinary landscape.
 • 78 •

T R AV E L / F R A N C E

Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes
uncorked: sip, hike and savour
From the vineyards of Beaujolais to the trails of Alpe d’Huez and the kitchens of Lyon,
France’s Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region is a destination for wine, food, and culture.
BY LEYNA POH

In the southeast of France, the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region offers

a compelling cross-section of the country’s most defining pleasures
– wine, cuisine and nature – each expressed through places that are
grounded in local life. These destinations reveal the depth and diversity
of a region shaped by flavour, craft, and culture.
 • 79 •

T R AV E L / F R A N C E

PHOTO: B. BECKER AUVERGNE

PHOTO: B. BECKER AUVERGNE

Raising a glass
For decades, Beaujolais was defined by its young, light-bodied, fruity red SET BETWEEN LYON
wine. But today, vignerons across the region are turning the spotlight onto AND THE SOUTHERN
EDGE OF BURGUNDY,
its crus — distinct villages like Morgon, Fleurie and Moulin-à-Vent — where BEAUJOLAIS IS A REGION
Gamay grapes are treated with as much reverence as Pinot Noir in Burgundy. OF ROLLING HILLS,
HISTORIC CHÂTEAUX, AND
SMALL-SCALE VINEYARDS,
Beaujolais, France’s second most renowned appellation after Champagne, OFFERING VISITORS A
offers a rich combination of scale, diversity and depth. The region features 12 CLOSE-UP LOOK AT LOCAL
appellations, including 10 celebrated crus, and is home to over 300 châteaux WINE CULTURE THROUGH
TASTINGS, CELLAR VISITS,
and more than 200 wine cellars that welcome visitors for tastings and tours. AND SCENIC DRIVES.

For instance, a visit to Château Bellevue offers guests a deeper

understanding of Beaujolais winemaking. Accompanied by oenologist
Élodie Rousselot, visitors are guided through the vaulted cellar, where
the architecture of the fermentation tanks themselves becomes a point of
conversation. “They’re designed intentionally,” she explains, noting how
the shape supports gentle extraction and highlights the character of each
vineyard parcel. Her insights offer a rare glimpse into the precision, patience,
and passion behind every bottle, deepening guests’ appreciation for the
estate’s fresh, structured wines. They are crafted to pair beautifully with the
PHOTO: B. BECKER AUVERGNE
region’s hearty fare such as charcuterie, sausages in red wine, and slow-
cooked meats.

A short drive away, Château de Pizay offers a completely different, immersive

tasting experience at its Oenothèque — an engaging, self-guided journey
through scent, flavour, and terroir. Visitors explore wine profiles via scent
diffusers and digital displays before ending with a guided tasting. Outside,
manicured French gardens provide a tranquil setting to sip a glass of Morgon
or Brouilly under the afternoon sun.
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T R AV E L / F R A N C E

PHOTO: B. BECKER AUVERGNE

These estates are redefining wine tourism, not as
hurried stopovers, but as immersive destinations
where visitors can slow down and enjoy a fun,
educational experience.

Epicurean altitude

PHOTO: WWW.TRISTANSHU.COM
A few hours south, Alpe d’Huez – best known for
its steep Tour de France climbs – shifts gears in
the off-season, becoming a leisure destination for
hikers, cheese lovers, and alpine food enthusiasts.
“There’s something for everybody at Alpe d’Huez
all year round,” says Sonia Papaveri, team leader
at SATA Group Alpe d’Huez Aeon. “Not just the
skiers — and no age limits. People come for the
scenery, the food, the fresh air. It’s more than just
a winter resort.”
carved into the glacier, filled with intricately WITH WIDE, SUN-DRENCHED
Beyond the slopes, the area caters well to non- sculpted ice art, a stop that’s just a short walk SLOPES, RELIABLE SNOW,
AND PANORAMIC VIEWS
skiers and leisure travellers with activities like from the main slopes. OVER THE GRANDES
snowshoe hiking, relaxing alpine spas, and scenic ROUSSES, ALPE D’HUEZ IS A
cable car rides that unveil sweeping panoramas And when it comes to dining, La Racletterie is DREAM FOR SKIERS OF ALL
LEVELS, OFFERING BOTH
of the Massif des Grandes Rousses. One unique a must-visit for those craving the region’s most CHALLENGE AND CHARM IN
experience is the La Grotte de Glace, an ice cave iconic alpine comfort food. Tucked in a corner EVERY DESCENT.
PHOTOS: B. BECKER AUVERGNE
HEARTY AND TRADITIONAL, LYON’S BOUCHON FARE INCLUDES DISHES LIKE QUENELLES, ANDOUILLETTE, AND SALADE
LYONNAISE, SERVED WITH LOCAL WINE AND PLENTY OF CHARACTER.

of the resort village, the restaurant offers an Lyon, the experience feels like stepping
authentic, hands-on experience where you choose into a family kitchen. Wooden tables,
from a variety of raclette cheeses and melt them vintage posters, and the comforting scent
yourself on individual tabletop grills. The melted of slow-cooked sauces set the scene.
cheese is paired with boiled potatoes, pickles, Here unfussy specialties like quenelles de
and charcuterie. It’s a rustic, communal meal best brochet (pike dumplings in crayfish sauce),
enjoyed after a day in the snow or on the trails. salade Lyonnaise, and tablier de sapeur
(beef tripe) are served.There’s also a well-
Bouchon, boulevards and bold flavours curated list of local wines to boot. The
At the southern edge of Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes hearty, unpretentious meal is meant to be
sits Lyon, a city that defines French gastronomy but shared and lingered over.
also offers so much more than what’s on the plate.
PHOTO: L. COMBE_AUVERGNE

Known for its vibrant food culture and deeply rooted Across town at Les Halles de Lyon Paul
culinary traditions, Lyon is a place where heritage, Bocuse, the city’s famed indoor market,
craftsmanship, and innovation exist side by side. locals and visitors come together to
taste the best of the region — sausages,
For a true taste of Lyonnaise cuisine, a visit to cheeses, oysters, and pâtisserie — under
a traditional bouchon is essential. These rustic one roof. The layers of Lyonnaise cuisine
eateries serve dishes that are unapologetically rich, offer something familiar in its depth of
generous, and born of local tradition. At Bouchon flavour and reverence for ingredients,
Les Lyonnais, tucked into the old streets of Vieux yet entirely new in its expression.
 • 83 •

T R AV E L / F R A N C E

GETTING
THERE WITH
RAIL EUROPE
France is best explored
by train, and Lyon is no
exception. With TGV INOUI’s
high-speed rail services,
getting from Paris to Lyon
takes just two hours and eight
minutes, making it an ideal
gateway to the Auvergne-
Rhône-Alpes region.
PHOTO: G. REYNARD_AUVERGNE

Operated by the French

national rail network (SNCF),
these trains travel at over
300km/h and offer both First
and Second-Class coaches
designed for comfort —
whether you’re working,
relaxing, or travelling with
family and friends.

You can book individual

tickets or Eurail Passes
via www.raileurope.com
Lyon is also rich with history. The Teatro Galo-Romano, perched on the FROM CREAMY SAINT- or through Rail Europe’s
MARCELLIN TO PUNGENT
hillside of Fourvière, is a striking remnant of the city’s Roman past. Just BLEU DE BRESSE,
accredited partners, with fares
above it, the Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière crowns the skyline, LYON’S MARKETS ARE A starting from €46. From Lyon,
offering sweeping views across Lyon and the two rivers that divide it. SHOWCASE OF REGIONAL regional trains also connect
CHEESE-MAKING AT ITS
Down below, Place Bellecour, one of Europe’s largest open squares, FINEST, OFFERING RIPE,
easily to Beaujolais and the
connects the city’s modern rhythm with its classical architecture — a RUSTIC SELECTIONS Alps, allowing you to explore
lively hub perfect for strolling, shopping, or simply watching the world READY TO TAKE HOME more of the region with ease
go by. and flexibility.

No visit to Lyon is complete without wandering through the Traboules —

hidden passageways that thread between buildings in the old quarters
of Vieux Lyon and La Croix-Rousse. Originally used by silk workers, these
narrow, secret corridors are now a symbol of Lyon’s layered past. To walk
through them is to feel the texture of the city, feeling its shadows and
centuries-old charm.

Lyon is also an excellent base to explore the wider Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes

region, offering seamless access to both Beaujolais and the Alps. But the
city itself rewards time and curiosity, offering a full-bodied experience
of French culture — one that speaks through its food, its streets, and its
sense of place.
 • 84 •

LAST COURSE / OCEANIA CRUISES

PHOTO: OCEANIA CRUISES®

Sail away

O
ceania Cruises®, the world’s leading culinary- and Alternatively, consider a year-end adventure with the Indian
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Created for FOODIES by FOODIES
Food is at the heart of everything we do. Through travel and food, we learn about
the world, creating connections and memories that last a lifetime. Travel and food
open the door to new experiences and are the most amazing ways to celebrate
the world — and the people around us.

“Travel and food are the ultimate ways of

bringing people together – to savour unique
flavours, experience diff erent destinations
and create shared memories.”

GIADA DE L AURENTIIS
Oceania Cruises Culinary and
Brand Ambassador

THE FINEST CUISINE AT SEA®

AWARD-WINNING ITINERARIES
SMALL SHIP LUXURY T M

CALL +65 3165 1677 (SINGAPORE), VISIT OCEANIACRUISES.COM OR CONTACT YOUR TRAVEL ADVISOR