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 _
w
^ ACCADEMIA ITALIAKA ^
'Hnj

DELLA CUCI1TA
THE ITALIAN ACADEMY OF CUISINE

THE
REGIONAL
COOKING OF
ITAL

THE essential source with

2,000 AUTHENTIC RECIPES

c
Rizzoli \jne*yo«k
ACCADEMIA ITALIAN A
DELLA C U CINA
 Accademia Italiana della Cucina
The Italian Academy of Cuisine
Via NapoTorriani 31, 20124 Milano

President: GIOVANNI BALLARINI

Coordination and supervision: PAOLO PETRONI

The Accademia Italiana della Cucina would like to offer acknowledgment

to all its delegates and members for the research and editing of the recipes.

FOR THE ENGLISH-LANGUAGE EDITION:

Translator: JAY HYAMS
Typesetter: TINA HENDERSON
Designer: ERICA HEITMAN-FORD /v- MU CCA DESIGN
Copyeditor: SARA NEWBERRY
Editor: CHRISTOPHER STEIGHNER
Assistant Editor: J0N0 JAR RETT
Translation and typesetting coordinated byLIBRISOURCE INC.

The publisher wishes to gratefully acknowledge FRED PLOTKIN

for his invaluable services as a consultant on the text.

Originally published in the Italian language as La Cucina del Bel Paese,

© Copyright by Bolis Edizioni - Azzano San Paolo (BG).

First published in the United States of America in 2009

# RIZZOLI INTERNATIONAL PUBLICATIONS, INC.

300 PARK AVENUE SOUTH, NEW YORK, NY 10010

www.rizzoliusa.com

© 2009 RIZZOLI PUBLICATIONS INC.

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system,

or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording,

or otherwise, without prior consent of the publishers.

2009 2010 201 1 2012 / 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Printed in the United States of America

ISBN: 978-0-8478-3147-0

Library of Congress Control Number: 2009931239

TABLE »/ CONTENTS

T»

Preface vi

i
Introduction vii

Editor's Notes viii

Antipasti, Pizza, & Sauces 1

Soups 91

Pasta, Polenta, & Rice 211

Fish 425

Meat & Poultry 507

Vegetables 671

Cheese Dishes 737

Desserts 747

Conversion Chart 893

Index by Region 894

Index by Principal Ingredient 908

 PREFACE

The Accademia Italiana della Cucina, the idiosyncratic regional language of the in-
founded by Orio Vergani in 1953, has as its dividual contributors; on the other hand, we
primary purpose the safeguarding of Italy’s had to put together a clear and readable col-
culinary traditions. From its very beginning, lection that would be easy to consult.

the academy has worked to record, study, The resulting work presents more than
and spread knowledge of Italy’s most genu- 2,000 recipes, from the well-known classics
ine regional dishes. Today, thanks to the to some obscure gems, with the inclusion
dedicated work of more than 7,600 acad- of traditions that have been nearly forgot-
emy members organized in 300 delegations, ten even by the inhabitants of many Italian

we have succeeded in collecting the fruits of cities.

this long labor, assembling a collection of Any Italian knows that a cherished heir-

recipes that is unprecedented in its scope. loom dish is sure to vary in its preparation,
One of the strengths of the Accademia is depending on who is in the kitchen. It will

its reach across the entire territory of Italy. be made in a certain way at home, in an-

Our members have been able to canvas the other way at a relative’s, and in yet another

country, investigating even the most remote way by a friend. Sometimes the differences
and isolated localities —areas that would are minimal (or at least they appear so on
escape the attention of any single author the surface); sometimes they are substan-
working alone. tial. Interpretation, improvisation —these
Only by living in Italy, by knowing its tra- are essential characteristics of traditional
ditions, by being in constant contact with Italian cooking. Thus while we have strived

its day-to-day reality, is it possible to under- to present the most iconic version of key re-

stand, evaluate, and select the dishes that gional dishes, it is up to you, the home cook,
constitute true home cooking —not only the to make them your own.
dishes being prepared today but also the This is not intended to be a history book
ones that were prepared in years past and but a living cookbook. The ultimate goal is to

those that persist only in the memories of keep these recipes alive so that future gen-
our elders. erations might continue to enjoy them. We
Thus was born the idea of taking a kind are especially delighted that now this body of
of census, so far as doing so was possible, of culinary knowledge is available in the Eng-
Italy’s enormous patrimony of local cooking lish language — a true world to discover.

traditions. But such a huge task necessarily

presented certain challenges. The overall ed- Paolo Petroni
iting had to be both wide-sweeping and deli- Editorial Coordinator and Supervisor

cate. On the one hand we hesitated to change Accademia Italiana della Cucina

vi
 INTRODUCTION

Such a genial idea: an Italian culinary acad- there aren’t local variations, which are also

emy called on its many members, located duly noted.

in every part of the cbuntry, to collect fa- All of which makes the English-language
vorite recipes for traditional local dishes edition a surprise and a treasure, presenting

from relatives, friends, and neighbors. Ge- as it does the original, historical version of
nial because it goes to the heart of Italian famous dishes known until now only from
culture: the home, family, food. In Italy a their toned-down modern versions. These
restaurant earns praise if its creations can genuine versions reveal their roots, and
be described as “homemade” —recognition their close relationships with local ingredi-

that the home cook is the best cook. It is ents, customs, and history. In addition to
also true that traditions are carried on most famous recipes there are recipes for dishes

enthusiastically, and most accurately, at the previously unknown to American cooks,

local level, at the source. dishes known only to travelers in Italy. And
The result was a cookbook the size of a not all travelers: only those knowledgeable
Phonebook —an accurate comparison since enough to seek them out or lucky enough to

each recipe leads back to a province, a city, be invited into an Italian home.
a street, ultimately a kitchen table. That How much was lost in translation? Certain
intimacy has contributed to the book’s en- jokes and witticisms in local dialect resisted

during popularity in Italy. Also appealing is translation into standard Italian and thus
what the book reveals about Italy, still very could not be brought into English. Other-
much a patchwork quilt of constant, often wise every effort has been made to maintain

striking, variations (backed by stubborn the varying local flavors of the original. The
opinions). From region to region — even royal history of Naples is unmistakable in
from the seacoast to the interior of the same many Neapolitan recipes; the rustic past of

region — everything changes in little ways, the Veneto, along with that region’s wry hu-
and many things change in very large ways. mor, is also made abundantly clear. From
Whether or not the sauce contains tomatoes every region there are recipes that give a
or eggplant or pecorino can often tell you, sense of the hardships of the past. There
as accurately as a compass, exactly where can be no better example of Italy’s famous
you are. cucina povera than the “fish” soup that calls
The most striking aspect of the book for no fish and gets its seaside flavor from
remains the enormous quantity of recipes beach rocks, boiled in the cooking water.
and their close relationship to the places Being such a clear mirror of Italian culture,
where they are eaten. Plenty of them —page Italian food reflects that nation’s history

after page —have been prepared on the same and geography. La Cucina documents not
site using the same ingredients since the just the cooking of Italy, but the country’s
Middle Ages or before. Which doesn’t mean character as well.
 EDITOR’S NOTES

Family recipes present certain caveats. BEANS The two most common types of
These recipes were not tested in a profes- beans used are borlotti (cranberry beans)
sional kitchen, thus not simplified or stan- and cannellini (white beans), though lentils,

dardized. They are instead originals, handed chickpeas, and favas also feature promi-
down over many generations. The original nently. If the type of bean is not specified,
book endeavored to maintain the individu- choose whichever you prefer, but be pre-
al voices of each recipe’s contributor, and pared to adjust cooking times. When dried
we have done the same. Thus you will no- beans are called for, they should always be
tice that the language varies from recipe to soaked first.

recipe. Some delve into greater detail than

others regarding technique. In terms of in- BREAD In the Italian country kitchen, when
gredients, almost all are less precise than the bread goes stale it is not discarded. Slices
recipes that fill today’s cookbooks. Embrace are topped with soup or stew to soak up
this flexibility and vary the ingredients their savory liquids. Or the bread is ground
based on your own taste, seasonality, and into crumbs for coating other ingredients
availability. Some of the ingredients may be or tossing with pasta. Good stale bread re-
hard to find outside of Italy, but there are sults from bread that is left at room tem-
valid substitutions for any regional herb or perature in a perforated plastic or paper
mushroom or cheese. bag or box, not refrigerated. If none is on
We have attempted to remain true to the hand, you can approximate stale bread by
spirit of this book as it was originally pub- drying fresh bread slices in a 350° oven for
lished in Italy. However, we have made some a few minutes.
changes to open the book to a broader au-
dience. Approximately one hundred recipes BROTH In general, use a broth that cor-
were cut, mainly because they depended responds to the principal component of a
upon ingredients rarely found outside of Ita- dish. For instance, use beef broth for a beef
ly. In other cases, we transformed recipes into recipe. Chicken broth is the default for reci-
“Local Tradition” sidebars, so that the reader pes that do not specify.
may learn a dish’s history and principal com-
ponents. In general, for every chapter except CAPERS The larger capers from the islands

Desserts, the recipes yield four servings, un- near Sicily and Sardinia have the most
less otherwise stated. Here are some general flavor. Capers preserved in salt are prefer-

guidelines concerning ingredients. able to those brined in vinegar, but both

should be rinsed well and drained before
BAY LEAVES Used to infuse sauces and stews using.

with flavor, bay leaves themselves should

not be eaten, and can be removed before CHEESE Here are some of the cheeses most
serving, if desired. commonly used in this book:
 As a go
i
,
named for the plateau at the foot one would use the grana of that recipe’s re-

of the Dolomites to the north of Vicenza gion. Since these local grana cheeses are not

in the Veneto region, is a pale cow’s-milk widely available outside Italy, we have usu-
cheese with a slightly sweet taste; aged and ally substituted the quintessential Parmi-
hardened it can be grated. It is made in sev- giano-Reggiano.
eral versions, from a hard, half-fat cheese to

a soft, full-fat version. Montasio is a firm cow’s-milk cheese

similar to Asiago, available aged or fresh. It

Bitto, from the Sondrio province of comes from Friuli-Venezia Giulia.

Lombardia (the Valtellina), is made of cow’s

milk and ten percent goat’s milk. Mozzarella is one of the most famous
and widely available cheeses in Italy, though
CACIOCAVALLO comes from Southern Ita- southern versions are considered the best.
ly, where it is stretched and shaped by hand, Mozzarella di bufala is made from buffalo
like mozzarella and provolone. Made with milk rather than cow’s milk, as is most com-
cow’s milk, caciocavallo when it is young mon today. Buffalo milk is creamier than
has a firm, smooth texture and a mildly cow’s and imparts a more velvety texture
salty flavor that grows more pungent as it and tangier fragrance.
is aged. It is often made into a gourd shape,
and smoked versions are available. Parmigiano-Reggiano is a hard cheese
made from skimmed cow’s milk by
partly
Fiordilatteisa soft, fresh cheese from a centuries-old method in the provinces of
cow’s milk — literally, “flower of milk.” Parma, Reggio Emilia, Modena, and Bo-
logna in Emilia-Romagna and Mantova in
Fontinaisan unpasteurized cow’s-milk Lombardia.
cheese, the most authentic and delicious ex-

amples of which come from the slopes of Pecorino refers to any Italian sheep ’s-
the Valle d’Aosta. With its delicate, buttery, milk cheese (pecora is Italian for “sheep”);

nutty flavor, fontina is a favorite for cook- of the dozens of varieties of pecorino chees-
ing, as it melts beautifully. es, the most famous version is pecorino Ro-
mano, which has a sharp and pungent flavor
Gorgonzola is Italy’s most famous blue that makes it mainly appropriate for cook-
cheese. It was born in Lombardia, but al- ing or for grating like Parmigiano-Reggiano.
most all of it today is produced in Piemonte. Pecorino dolce is a young and fresh pecorino

Made of cow’s milk, most gorgonzolas are with a notable sweetness and softer texture.
aged from three to six months. The mildest,
sweetest versions (aged for the minimum) Provolone is a sharp and tangy, firm-tex-
are called gorgonzola dolce ; the most pun- tured cow’s-milk cheese that originated in
gent, gorgonzola piccante. the Basilicata region of southern Italy; like
gorgonzola , it has lighter-flavored versions
Gran a is a general term for a hard, referred to as dolce, and stronger-flavored,
grainy-textured cheese often used for grat- aged versions referred to as piccante. Both
ing. The original recipes here often called versions can also be smoked and are good
simply for grana, the expectation being that for cooking.

ix
 . a

Ricotta in Italian means “re-cooked,” CITRUS When a recipe calls for citrus zest, it
and refers to a soft, mild creamy-white is important to use organically grown fruit,

cheese traditionally made from the whey in order to avoid the ingestiop of pesticides

remaining after making pecorino. Today, and other harmful chemicals found in the

most ricotta is made from cow’s milk. It has peel of conventionally grown fruit. Always
a very mild, lightiy tart flavor and slightly zest the fruit before you juice it.

grainy texture. It is also often used in des-

serts and baking. Ricotta salata refers to FLOUR Italy’s famous hard durum wheat
ricotta to which salt has been added as provides the semolina flour used to make
a preservative, making it less moist and dried pasta and some breads. However,
more pungent in flavor than fresh ricotta. for homemade pasta, a softer flour should

Robiola is a goat’s milk cheese that often be used. In all recipes here, unless other-
contains cow’s and sheep’s milk. It has a wise specified, use unbleached all-purpose
creamy texture and is not aged beyond flour.

three weeks.
GARLIC European garlic cloves tend to be
Scamorza, from Abruzzo and Molise, smaller than much garlic found in Ameri-
is a pasta filate (“pulled or spun dough”) can markets, so it’s best to err on the side of

cheese that is shaped by hand, like provolone using less rather than more to avoid over-
or mozzarella. A cow’s-milk cheese with a whelming the other flavors in a dish. All

mild, creamy flavor similar to mozzarella, it garlic should be peeled unless otherwise
is sometimes smoked. stated. In many recipes in this book, whole
garlic cloves are left in the dish at the time of

Taleggio is made in the Taleggio Valley serving but are not intended to be eaten —
north of Bergamo as well as in other centers custom that is in accord with the recipes’
in Lombardia and in Treviso in the Veneto. rustic origins.

Made in square forms, it is a semisoft cow’s-

milk cheese with a delicate creamy taste but GREENS Spring and summer in the Ital-

a pungent aroma. ian countryside means fields of tender wild

greens, which enterprising foragers turn
Toma (also known as tuma ) can mean into flavorful salads, soups, sauces, or side

different kinds of cheeses. The first is a dishes. While the wild varieties may be hard
smooth, firm, cow’s-milk cheese from Lom- to find, many of these greens are widely
bardia and Piemonte, traditionally aged available at grocers and especially farmers’

between three and eighteen months. In Si- markets today.

cilia, toma refers to fresh ewe’s-milk curds

molded in a basket. In the north, tuma re- Arugula is used in salads and soups,
fers to an unsalted goat’s-milk cheese. cooked as a vegetable, or added to sauces.

CHILE PEPPER Note that sometimes, in or- Chicory, radicchio, endive, and escarole
der to impart a more subtle flavor to a dish, are all members of the chicory family and
whole dried hot peppers are used and left share a pleasantly bitter taste. Chicory’s
in the dish at serving time (but in this case curly leaves somewhat resemble those of
they are not meant to be eaten) dandelion’s. “Curly endive” is quite similar,
but with slightly darker green leaves. Curly OIL Each region imparts different charac-

endive and chicory are roughly interchange- teristics to its native olive oils. Northern
able in recipes. oils, especially from Liguria, are often con-
sidered the most elegant; those from central

Escaroleis most often cooked, baked, or Italy are known for their peppery character;
stirred into soupp. Its leaves are broader and olive oils from the south often carry hints of

wavier, resembling lettuce. It has a milder Mediterranean herbs. Try to use an olive oil

flavor than the rest of the chicory family. from the region of the recipe or, failing that,

from a nearby region. Use extra-virgin olive

Radicchio comes in several varieties, the oil for all of these recipes. For deep-frying,
most familiar of which may be the tight, you may substitute vegetable oil.

round, bright crimson heads of radicchio

rosso di Verona (or rosa di Chioggia ), which is PARSLEY Italian parsley has flat, sharply

often served raw or lightly wilted in salads. pointed leaves, and a clean, bright flavor
Radicchio di Castelfranco has a looser shape fundamental to Italian cooking. Curly pars-
and more of a marbleized pink coloration. ley is a poor substitute.
Shaped similarly to a head of romaine let-

tuce and markedly less bitter than its cous- PINE NUTS The best pine nuts come from
ins, radicchio di Treviso can be served fresh Pisa. If these are unavailable, you may still

but is also often used in sauces and risottos, be able to find pine nuts from Italy.

baked, or grilled.

PORK Every region of Italy has its own dis-

Swiss chard is actually a native Italian tinctive pork products, many of which have
plant with no real botanical or historic con- become essential to general Italian cuisine.

nection to Switzerland; in Italian cuisine it’s Ciccioli are the flavorful bits left over after the

used in much the same manner as spinach. fat has been rendered, similar to cracklings.
The jowls (guanciale) and belly (pancetta)

MARINADES While many of the recipes did are often seasoned and cured and used in a

not originally call for refrigerating a dish similar manner as American bacon, though
while it is marinating, it is best to do so for not smoked. The ham of a pig that is salted

safety reasons in the modern kitchen. and air-cured has the great honor of be-
coming prosciutto, the finest type of which
MEAT AND POULTRY In this book are reci- is prosciutto di Parma. The rind, or skin, of

pes from the countryside, where cooks have the pig is used to give flavor and body to

access to all kinds of animals, and where many stews. Lardo is a delicacy of the white

almost every part of the animal is used. fat from the pig’s rump that has been cured
Thus sometimes a recipe will specify the and seasoned with spices. Lardo, as well as

age and/or gender of an animal. This detail other types of fatty meat, are used in the
is key to the ideal qualities and taste of the larding of meat before cooking. To lard a

dish. Try your farmers’ markets and other piece of meat, first cut small slits every inch
local sources to see if you can obtain these or so across the surface of the meat. Then
meats. Substitute as needed, but note that insert small pieces of the larding fat into the

quantities and cooking times will need to slits, using either a larding needle, a skewer,
be adjusted. or even the tip of a knife. This helps the meat
 .

to stay moist and augments its flavor. Lardo pork and often beef or veal), pancetta, pro-

should not be confused with lard ( strutto ), sciutto, soppressata (pressed salame usually
which is simply rendered pork fat. Lard is made with pork), or speck ^smoked ham
a staple in the Italian country kitchen, used shoulder)
often for sauteing. Avoid supermarket lard
that has been hydrogenated. You can substi- SALT Sea salt is generally preferable. Rarely
tute olive oil for lard in most cases. are measurements given; add salt to taste.

RICE Arborio, Vialone Nano, and Carnaroli WINE Specific recommendations are given
are the three most common and popular va- when a recipe calls for wine as an ingredi-
rieties of Italian rice used in risotto. In indi- ent. It is always wise to use (and drink) a
vidual recipes, a particular kind of rice is of- wine from the same region as the recipe.
ten specified based upon the region. If none
is specified, try to use an Italian variety. VANILLA In Italy, vanilla-sugar packets are
more often used than vanilla extract, which
SALAME There are many types of local we have substituted throughout. If you
salame throughout Italy, with various ingre- would like to make your own vanilla sug-

dients, flavorings, sizes, shapes, and curing ar, split a vanilla bean, place it in a jar, and
processes. Most Italian salame, however, is cover it with granulated sugar. Shake it oc-
uncooked, air-dried and cured, and made casionally, and after a few days, the sugar
with pork along with other meats, lard, or will have taken on the vanilla flavor. Use this

pancetta, and boldly flavored with garlic, in place of extract, reducing the amount of
wine, herbs, and spices. Unless otherwise sugar otherwise in the recipe.
directed, recommended that you use a
it is

salame from the same region as the recipe. VINEGAR Always use wine vinegar in Ital-

The English “salami” is a catch-all term ian cooking —red or white depending upon
for Italian-style dried sausage, and this will the flavors of the dish. The exception would
serve as a decent substitute in some recipes be that apple cider vinegar is fine in cer-

using dried sausage. Fresh sausage ( salsic - tain dishes from the northern regions. True
cie ) is called for in some recipes; here you balsamic vinegar comes from the provinces
can use the generally available “Italian sau- of Modena and Reggio Emilia, just north
sage” that is sold from the butcher’s case in of Bologna in Emilia-Romagna, and it al-

many supermarkets; use the spicy or sweet ways bears the appellation Aceto Balsamico
variety depending upon the recipe and your Tradizionale di Modena. It should be used
taste. Cotecchino is a fresh pork sausage sparingly, added at the very end of cooking,
that contains bits of pork skin in its mixture. at the time of serving, or in dressings and
Finocchiona is a sausage made with fennel light sauces.

seed. Note that the word salumi refers to the

entire family of cured or preserved meats, YEAST For leavening, the original recipes

including but not limited to bresaola (air- called for lievito di birra and other kinds of
dried salted beef), collo or coppa (cured yeast. In all cases we have approximated
pork neck), culatello (salt-cured aged ham), equivalents using active dry yeast, which is

guanciale, mortadella (sausage made of more universally available.

THE REGIONS / ITALY
 ACCIUGHE
ANCHOVIES
IN SALSA ROSSA IN TOMATO SAUCE
PIEMONTE Rinse the anchovies, fillet them, and place in a container.
Combine the remaining ingredients to make a sauce.
1 lb. salt-cured anchovies
Cover the anchovies with this sauce and let stand at
garlic clove, minced
1
room temperature for several hours before use.
1 piece chili pepper, minced

1 tbsp. capers

% cup chopped flat-leaf parsley

6 tbsp. tomato puree

1 tsp. sugar

SAGE -AND -ANCHOVY YI el DS

ACCIUGHINI i
FRITTERS 12 FRITTERS

TOSCANA This dish is popular in Piombino, a town on the southern

coast of Toscana.
24 large sage leaves,
Dredge the sage leaves in flour. Cut the anchovies in half
rinsed and patted dry
lengthwise and sandwich each half between two sage
1 cups all-purpose flour, plus
Zi

more for dredging the sage leaves leaves, squeezing to make them stick together. Whisk
6 salt-cured anchovies,
together the flour, wine, egg white, and 1 tablespoon
rinsed and filleted olive oil to make a batter. Heat 3 inches of olive oil in a

Zi cup white wine saucepan. Dip the sage-and-anchovy sandwiches in the

1 large egg white, batter, then fry them until golden brown and crunchy.
beaten until foamy
Serve hot.
Olive oil

AGNOLOTTI CON CIPOLLA 1

ONION PIZZAS
SARDEGNA Lardo is pork fatback, from the strip of fat that runs along
the pig’s back. The lardo used for cooking is most often
2 lbs. medium onions, chopped fresh, not to be confused with the lardo that is cured and
1 % plum tomatoes,
lbs. seasoned (see page 42). If fatback is unavailable, you could
peeled and chopped trim just the white fat portion from unsmoked bacon and use
7 oz. casu de fitta (aged pecorino that as a substitute.
sheep cheese; can use
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Combine the onions, toma-
ricotta salata), grated
toes, cheese, lardo, and zucchini. Blend this with the flour
7 oz. lardo (see note), minced
and about Z2 cup warm salted water to obtain a some-
Za cup diced zucchini
what firm dough. Divide the dough into 6-inch pizzas
2 cups all-purpose flour,
plus more as needed that are 1 Z2 inches thick. Arrange the cabbage leaves on
Outer leaves from 1 head of cabbage the bottom of a baking pan, place the pizzas on top of
Salt them, and bake until golden. Serve warm.

2
 ORANGES
ANTIPASTO D’ARANCE WITH ANCHOVIES
MOLISE Rinse and dry the oranges. Do not peel them. Cut them
crosswise in thin slices. Arrange the slices on a sper-
4 large, juicy oranges
lunga (large serving plate) Garnish with anchovy
. fillets
(preferably organic)
and dress with olive oil and salt.
6 oz. salt-cured anchovies,
packed in oil

Yz cup extra-virgin olive oil

Salt

LOCAL TRADITION
ALBORELLE OR
SARDINE SALATE
Fish prepared by this traditional method, typical of the Lake Iseo area of Lombardy,
go very well with spaghetti or fresh polenta. Fresh alborelle, or sardines, are slightly
dried on a rack and then layered in an earthenware pot with a mixture of chopped
garlic, sage, and rosemary and coarse sea salt. The pot is then covered and weighted
and left undisturbed for a period of up to 2 months, after which time the fish are
soaked in water and then milk to remove the salt before eating.

ARANCINI AL SAPORE
di mare I SEAFOOD RICE BALLS
SICILIA This dish is typical of Caltanissetta. The fritters can also be

made smaller, about the size of a large nut, and served with
2 Yi cups Arborio rice an aperitif. In that case, the fish stuffing should be mixed
A few threads saffron, together with the rice, but otherwise the fritters would be
steeped in 1 tbsp. warm water prepared the same way.
3 large eggs, lightly beaten
Boil the rice in 4 cups lightly salted water until it is al

Yi cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano dente; drain it well. Add the saffron and its water, half
Extra-virgin olive oil
the eggs, and Parmigiano-Reggiano, mixing well. Set
1 garlic clove, chopped aside to cool. Prepare the filling: Heat 2 tablespoons
Yz medium onion, chopped olive oil in a large pan and saute the garlic and onion;
CONTINUED
add the tomatoes, then the seafood, beginning with the
pieces that require the most cooking. The baby shrimp

3
 Zi cup plum tomatoes, peeled should come last. Pour in the white wine and let it evap-
and chopped
orate, then complete the cooking, adding warm water if
Zi lb. sliced swordfish, pieces of
cuttlefish (all carefully boned);
necessary, bearing in mmd that the result should be soft
baby shrimp but not soupy. Let cool enough to handle, then chop the

Zi cup dry white wine fish into small pieces. Take a tangerine-size ball of rice

All-purpose flour mixture and press your thumb in the center to make a
Breadcrumbs hollow. Add a little filling, then close the rice around it,

and form into a ball. Roll the balls in the flour, then the

remaining eggs, then breadcrumbs. Heat 3 inches of olive

oil in a saucepan, enough to deep-fry the balls. The oil

must be hot, but not smoking, before adding the balls.

Working in batches (being careful not to crowd the pan),

fry until golden. Drain well and serve hot.

RICE BALLS
ARANCINI D RISO I
WITH MEAT AND PEAS
SICILIA Boil the rice in 4 cups lightly salted water, cooking it

over moderate heat for about 15 minutes and stirring

2 Zi cups Arborio rice
continuously until all the water is absorbed. Remove
2 large eggs, beaten
from the heat and quickly add half the eggs, butter, and
4 tbsp. (Kz stick) unsalted butter
half the caciocavallo. When blended, stir in the parsley
1 cup grated caciocavallo cheese
and season with salt and pepper. While the rice cools,
(if possible from Ragusa)

chopped parsley
prepare the filling. Mix the meat, saffron, peas, tuma,
1 tbsp. flat-leaf
and the remaining caciocavallo until blended. With
For the filling: damp hands take a small quantity of rice (about % cup),

7 oz. browned ground veal or pork, spread it out on your palm, and place a teaspoonful of
minced, with a little of its gravy the filling in the center, then close the rice over, forming
Pinch powdered saffron a ball roughly the size of a small orange. Heat 3 inches of
Zi cup fresh peas, cooked with onion oil in a saucepan until hot. Dip the balls in the remaining
4 oz. fresh tuma (unsalted
eggs and then breadcrumbs. Working in batches (being
goat's-milk cheese), cut in bits
careful not to crowd the pan), fry until golden, drain well,

and serve warm.

6 oz. breadcrumbs
Olive oil for frying

Salt and pepper

4
 ASPARAGI
ASPARAGUS
AL GORGONZOLA WITH GORGONZOLA
PIEMONTE There are two types of Gorgonzola, a luscious blue-veined
cheese. Gorgonzola dolce, which is creamy and yellow, is

(
1
3
A lbs. asparagus, more suitable for this recipe than Gorgonzola piccante,
woody ends trimmed which is crumbly and white.
7 oz. Gorgonzola dolce, sliced
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Cut the asparagus stalks to
4tbsp. (Vz stick) unsalted butter,
equal length, and boil briefly in lightly salted water until
melted
very bright green. Dry the asparagus stalks, place them
Salt
in a baking dish, and cover with Gorgonzola and butter.
Bake until the cheese is melted and lightly browned,
about 10 minutes.

«• LOCAL TRADITION
ASPIC
From the area of Lombardy, this preparation for aspic incorporates veal sweetbreads,
filoni (spinal cord with marrow), cock’s comb, beef tongue, and pistachios. The sweet-
breads, filoni, and cock’s comb are cleaned, rinsed, and boiled separately in water
and lemon juice. The tongue and pistachios are layered in a traditional mold or loaf

pan, topped with gelatin, and chilled until set. The boiled meats are then arranged in

overlapping layers with more gelatin used to keep the layers intact. Once the whole
dish has set and chilled, slice it at the table.

I GREEN SAUCE
BAGNETTO VERDE I FOR BOILED MEAT
PIEMONTE In Piedmont this sauce is indispensable as an accompani-
ment to mixed boiled meats.
1 large bunch flat-leaf parsley
Carefully wash and dry the parsley, finely chop it, and
2 garlic cloves, chopped
combine well with the other ingredients except the oil.
3 salt-cured anchovies, chopped
Then whisk in the oil.
Yz cup breadcrumbs
1 tbsp. red wine vinegar

Pinch chili pepper flakes (optional)

% cup olive oil

5
 LOCAL TRADITION
BAGNA CAODA
Literally “hot bath,” bagna caoda is a pungent dip and sauce first devised by ancient

Piedmontese winemakers. This is the traditional process: In a large earthenware pot,

over a low flame and stirring constantly for at least 30 minutes, slowly dissolve thinly
sliced garlic cloves in extra-virgin olive oil and butter. Once they have become a creamy,
homogenous sauce, add the Spanish red anchovies and more oil and cook slowly until

the anchovies dissolve, blending with the garlic and oil to create a light brown sauce.
The secret of the preparation, critical if one wants a good, healthy, and easy-to-digest
bagna caoda, is to heat it over a low flame and to never overcook it. Firm traditionalists
insist on a full head of garlic per person, up to 15 cloves, though 2 to 3 cloves, soaked in

cold water for a couple hours or placed under running water, per person will suffice.
Use 2 to 3 anchovies per person, cleaned in water and wine, well dried, and boned. The
oil must be extra-virgin olive oil, with at least 2 tablespoons per person. When serving
at the table, add oil if needed, gradually augmenting the sauce.
The vegetables to dip into the sauce should be those typical of Piedmontese kitchen
gardens: cardoons (the Gobbi "hunchback” of Nice or Spadoni di Chieri variety); red
peppers, both raw and roasted; pickled red peppers; Jerusalem artichokes; green,
white, and red cabbage; white hearts of escarole and chicory; fresh leeks; white tur-

nips; roasted beets; boiled cauliflower; roasted onions; white potatoes boiled in their

skins; apples; slices of roasted or fried pumpkin; as well as slices of hot roasted or
fried polenta. Long spring onions were also sometimes served for dipping, first sliced

crosswise at the base and presented at the table in bunches of 3 or 4, half-immersed

in a glass of Barbera. Fresh eggs could be scrambled in the last spoonfuls of the
bagna caoda remaining in the earthenware pot.

FRIED SQUASH
BARBAGIOAN RAVIOLI
LIGURIA Preheat the oven to 350°F. Peel the squash and pass it

through a food mill. Put the puree in a baking pan and

2 lbs. yellow squash
bake 10 minutes; when cool enough to handle, remove it

2 garlic cloves, minced

from the pan, wrap in a dishcloth, and squeeze dry.
2 tbsp. chopped flat-leaf parsley
Put the squash puree in a bowl. Let cool for 10 minutes.
4 large eggs, beaten
Add the garlic, parsley, eggs, cheeses, oregano, rice, but-
% cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano ter, and olive oil; salt and pepper to taste and mix care-
% cup grated pecorino fully to blend. Use the flour to prepare a pasta dough
CONTINUED
as on page 10, using 1 teaspoon olive oil and 54 cup

6
 Fresh oregano water in place of the eggs, and roll out the dough to form
Zi cup rice, cooked al dente a sheet (see note, page 212). Drop the filling in evenly
4tbsp. 04 stick) unsalted butter, spaced nut-size dollops- 114 inches apart along the sheet.
melted
Roll out a second sheet, cover the bottom sheet. Press
J4 cup extra-virgin olive oil,
down using your fingertips to separate the dollops of
plus more for the dough
rf and for frying filling and flatten the dough between the dollops. Cut
1 % cups all-purpose flour, the dough to form square ravioli. Heat about 2 inches of
plus more as needed olive oil in a pan and fry the ravioli until golden brown.
Salt chd pepper Serve very hot.

LOCAL TRADITION
BARBAZZA SCOTTATA
This is a preparation one finds in Umbria. Take two thin slices of barbazza ( guanciale ,

or pork cheek) and fry them in a pan with a little olive oil and several sage leaves.

When the barbazza is browned, add a little red wine vinegar. Nothing is more fragrant
and appetizing. Serve piping hot.

BRIOCHE RUSTICA I STUFFED BRIOCHE

CAMPANIA Combine 14 cup of the flour, yeast, and enough water to

form a dough. Knead into a small loaf; cover and let rise
3 cups all-purpose flour,
until doubled in size. Butter and flour a tube or Bundt
plus more as needed
pan. Combine the remaining flour, sugar, Parmigiano-
2)4 tsp. active dry yeast
3
Reggiano, and salt with the eggs and butter. Work this
A cup (V/2 sticks) unsalted butter
mixture a long time, slowly adding milk until it is soft but
Zi cup sugar
compact and, finally, add the small yeasted loaf, which
Zi cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
by then will have doubled in size. Knead this energeti-
3 large eggs
cally until the mixture comes away from the bowl as a
% cup milk
single piece. Form the dough into a ball, inscribe it with
6 oz. mixed salame, cubed
a cross, cover, and let rise. After about an hour, rework
6 oz. fresh provolone, cubed
the dough and roll it out into a large strip about 6 inches
CONTINUED
wide. Distribute the pieces of salame and cheese along
the length of the strip of dough then roll the dough over
on itself to enclose the filling, forming a narrow roll.

7
 2 cups peas sauteed in unsalted Fit the roll in the prepared pan, cover with a cloth, and
butter and prosciutto (or 2 cups
let it rise until the bripch^has expanded to reach the
stewed eggplant or 2 cups
sauteed mushrooms) edges of the pan. Preheat the oven to 3 50°F. Bake the
l

Salt brioche 25 to 30 minutes, or until it becomes a dark

blond color. Remove from the oven, transfer to a serv-
ing dish, and fill the central cavity with the cooked peas
and prosciutto, or with eggplant or mushrooms.

LOCAL TRADITION
BELECOT
This fresh salame is connected to the Fira di sette dulur ("Fair of the seven sorrows”)
held annually around the third Sunday of September at Russi, an important center
on the Romagna plain leading from Ravenna to Faenza. Known in dialect as belecdt

("already cooked”), this salame falls halfway between cotechino and the traditional
(and nearly extinct) zuzzezza mata sausage (the name of which does not express its

dominant reddish color).

BRUSCHETTA i
BRUSCHETTA
LAZIO The word bruschetta is derived from the dialect word brus-
care, meaning “to scorch.” According to the late Secondino
4 slices peasant-style bread Freda of the Accademia Italiana della Cucina, bruschetta was

1 garlic clove, peeled and cut in half once known to the common people as cappone (“capon”).
This popular term reflects the fact that the less well to do,
Olive oil

not having the financial means to enjoy a true capon (per-

Salt
haps cooked with the spicy “diavolo” sauce), made do with
“bruscato,” bread seasoned with garlic and olive oil, leading
to the name cappone. Without doubt, this savory antipasto
came into being in the vicinity of olive presses where, since
ancient times, the quality of the freshly pressed oil was as-

sessed by drizzling some of it over slices of grilled bread. If

desired, freshly ground pepper can be added, increasing the

flavor of the bruschetta.

Grill the slices of bread and rub them with the garlic.

Arrange them on a serving plate, season with salt, and

sprinkle with olive oil.
 BUCCELLATI OR
BREAD RINGS
Cl AMBELLE CON LE UOVA 1 WITH BAKED EGGS
CALABRIA Grease a baking sheet with olive oil. Knead the bread
dough with the lard, salt, and chili pepper flakes until it

Olive oil
is soft and elastic. Divide it in pieces and shape them
1 lb. bread dough (see page 13)
into rings. Arrange the rings on the greased pan; let them
1 heaping tbsp. lard
rise in a warm spot before putting in the oven. Preheat
Pinch chili pdpper flakes
the oven to 350°F. Crack a raw egg into the center of
Eggs
each ring. Bake until the rings are golden and the eggs
Salt
are set, about 25 minutes.

BURTLEINA FRIED FLATBREAD

EMILIA-ROMAGNA This dish is typical of Piacenza and the Faenza area.

Put the flour in a bowl and slowly whisk in enough warm

3 cups all-purpose flour,
water to obtain a somewhat liquid batter (about 2 cups);
plus more as needed
add salt to taste. In a frying pan heat lard or Vi inch of
1 cup lard or olive oil
olive oil and when it is hot pour in a thin layer of the bat-
Salt
ter. Cook at a high heat on both sides until the mixture
is crisp and browned. Dry on paper towels and serve
hot with a dusting of salt.

CACIU ALL’ARGINTERA FRIED CHEESE

SICILIA This dish’s Sicilian name means “silversmith’s cheese,” al-

most certainly a reference to the color of the cooked cheese.

Zn cup olive oil

In a pan heat the olive oil over medium heat. Lightly
2 garlic cloves saute the garlic until blond, then discard it. Cook the
fresh cheese
1 lb.
cheese pieces in the oil, turning them as soon as they
(pecorino or caciocavallo),
sliced into ’/2 -inch slices
take on color, then quickly sprinkle in the vinegar, and

2 tbsp. vinegar
add oregano and pepper. Cover for a few minutes, then

1 tbsp. chopped fresh oregano serve the cheese very hot.

Pepper

9
 BAKED DUMPLINGS
CALASCIONI WITH SAUSAGE AND CHEESE
LAZIO These appetizers may well have a Neapolitan origin since
they can be found in several towns that were once part of the

For the dough: Kingdom of Naples.

1/2 cups all-purpose flour, plus Here is an essential, all-purpose method for making
more as needed
pasta dough: Pour the flour onto a work surface or into
2 large eggs
a mixing bowl and shape it into a mound. Use your hand
1 tsp. lard
or the bottom of a measuring cup to hollow out the cen-
2tbsp. olive oil
ter of the mound to form a crater. Break the eggs into
Salt
the crater, add a pinch of salt, the lard, and olive oil (note

For the filling:

that in some pasta recipes, no fat is used). Beat the egg

3
A cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
mixture lightly with a fork, as if making scrambled eggs.

Zi cup grated pecorino

When the eggs begin to look homogeneous, use the fork

4 oz. sausage, cut in pieces

to pull a little of the flour into the eggs, gradually adding

2 tbsp. chopped flat-leaf parsley

more flour just until the eggs are no longer runny. Push

3 large eggs, beaten

aside about 3 tablespoons of flour, then use your hands
to work the rest of the flour into the eggs until the dough
For the glaze: is smooth. When you think you have achieved the
1 large egg yolk, beaten right texture, wash and dry your hands. Press your fin-

ger into the center of the ball dough. If the dough does
not stick to your finger as you pull it out, you do not
need to add more flour. If the dough is still sticky, knead
in flour in small increments (heaping tablespoons) until
the dough passes the test. Use a towel or pastry scraper
to remove any loose flour or crumbs from your work
surface — it should be clean when you knead the dough.
Press the ball of dough forward with the palm of your
hand, then fold the dough over on itself, then give the
dough a half turn. Repeat, pressing forward with your

palm, folding in half, and turning, always in the same

direction. When the dough is smooth and slightly “leath-
ery” (anywhere from 5 to 10 minutes), it is ready to be
rolled out. Preheat the oven to 400°F. In a bowl mix
together the cheeses and sausage. Add the parsley and
the eggs and knead to blend. Roll the pasta out into a
thin sheet (see note, page 212). Cut out circles about 2Vi
inches in diameter and spoon walnut-size portions of
the prepared filling in the center of each. Close each by
placing another pasta circle on top, pressing down along
the edges with a thumb to seal. Brush the calascioni

with egg yolk and bake for 5 minutes, or until golden.

10
 FRIED DUMPLINGS WITH
CALCIONI MOLISANI PROSCIUTTO AND CHEESE
MOLISE Mix the ricotta and egg yolks in a bowl until blended.

rT Add the prosciutto, provolone, and parsley, salt to taste,

For the filling:
and a little freshly ground pepper. Knead well to obtain
1 lb. sheep’s-milkricotta
a homogenous ball, firm to the touch. Let this rest in the
2 large egg yolks, beaten
same bowl. Use the flour and eggs to prepare a pasta
4 oz. prosciutto crudo,
dough as on page 10, adding the lard and lemon juice
cut in thick slices, then cut in

slightly large cubes with the eggs. Roll the dough out into a somewhat thin

4 oz. provolone piccante cheese, sheet (see note, page 212). On one-half of the sheet ar-
cut in slightly large cubes range little lumps of the filling; these should be about the
Chopped flat-leaf parsley size of a large walnut, spaced about 2 inches apart. Cover
Salt and white pepper the half of the sheet with the other half. Use your finger-

tips to separate the calcioni. Using a pastry wheel, cut

For the dough:
out the calcioni one by one, pressing down slightly with
2Ys cups all-purpose flour,
plus more as needed
the fingers along the edges to seal. Pour 2 inches of

2 large eggs, beaten

olive oil in an iron pan and, when it is hot, lower in the

4 oz. lard
calcioni, a few at a time, letting them cook until well

Juice of 1 lemon
browned. Remove them with a slotted spoon, drain on

Extra-virgin olive oil

paper towels, and serve hot.

I OLIVE AND RICOTTA

CALZONE BARESE I CALZONES
PUGLIA During the period of Lent in Puglia, it was once customary to
enrich the filling of these calzoni with the addition of salted
For the dough: anchovies, boned and cut up, added together with the olives.

2 cups all-purpose flour, Pour the flour onto a flat surface and work it together
plus more as needed
with the yeast mixture, a dash of salt, and 54 cup of the
2/i tsp. active dry yeast,
dissolved in 2 tbsp. warm water
olive oil. Knead the dough, turning and folding it onto

Extra-virgin olive oil

itself, until it becomes soft and elastic, adding water by
the tablespoon as necessary —you may need to add as

For the filling: much as % cup. Then cover it with a clean kitchen towel
1 medium onion, sliced and let it rise for about an hour. Preheat the oven to
3
A lb. ripe plum tomatoes, 450°F. Grease a baking dish. In a saucepan, heat 3 table-
peeled and chopped then add
spoons olive oil and saute the onion until pale,
Z3 cup pitted and chopped down for a few minutes,
the tomatoes. Cook the sauce
black olives
then add salt, pepper, and olives. Remove the pan from
4 oz. ricotta salata,

passed through a sieve the heat and add the ricotta salata and mix well. Roll

Salt and pepper out the dough on a floured board into two sheets, one

CONTINUED larger than the other. With the larger one line the greased

11
 pan. Pour in the sauce, spread it out, and cover with the
other sheet, folding the edges over each other. Bake for
approximately 20 mirflites^or until the top is golden.

CALZONE Dl CARNEVALE CARNIVAL CALZONE

PUGLIA Like the preceding one, this dish is served in Bari at Carnival
time.
Olive oil
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a round baking pan
with olive oil and dust Make a well with
it with flour.
For the dough:
the flour on the work surface or Add the sugar in a bowl.
S /2 cups all-purpose flour,
plus more as needed and yeast in the center and mix well. Make a well again
1 A
]
cups sugar and add the eggs and butter; knead well. The dough
1 tbsp. active dry yeast
should be soft; add another egg if necessary. Divide

5 large eggs, beaten

the dough in two parts, one larger than the other. Roll

% cup (1 Yi sticks) plus 2 tbsp. out the larger portion to form a Vs-inch-thick sheet and
unsalted butter, softened use it to line the pan. Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in a

pan and add the meats. Saute until brown and put the
For the filling:
meat in a mixing bowl. Add the eggs and Parmigiano-
Olive oil
Reggiano; mix well to obtain a homogeneous mixture.
2 lbs. mixed ground pork and veal
Sprinkle sugar on the dough in the baking pan and top
5 large eggs, beaten
with an even layer of meat mixture; cover with ricotta.
% cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano Arrange the slices of scamorza over the ricotta and
Sugar
sprinkle on more sugar. Roll out the remaining dough
1 % lb. ricotta
to form a '/le-inch-thick sheet and use this to cover the
2 fresh scamorza cheese,
pan, sealing the edges. Pierce the top with a fork, brush
thinly sliced
with egg yolk, and sprinkle with sugar. Bake until the top
1 large egg yolk, beaten
is well browned.

CALZONE RIPIENO
AL FORNO BAKED CALZONE
CAMPANIA Ciccioli are made during the process of rendering lard: Pork
fat is cut in cubes and “melted” in copper pots over low heat.
The result still contains small bits of pork meat; these are
removed, flavored with salt and pepper, pressed, and aged
to create ciccioli, also called sfrizzoii. There are also sper-
goli (spapagliati), which are of a darker color. The use of
tomatoes in calzoni is relatively recent, dating to the 1940s,

and there are still Neapolitan pizzerias where calzone is

made without them.

12
 Olive oil Preheat the oven to 450°F. Grease a baking sheet with
2 lbs. bread dough (see recipe olive oil. Divide the dough in four pieces, roll out to form
below)
disks, and place then} on the sheet. Each will become a
1 lb. ricotta
calzone. Combine the ricotta with the ciccioli, salame,
4 oz. ciccioli (see note)
provolone (or fior di latte), and Parmigiano-Reggiano;
6 oz. salame (Neapolitan if possible),
mix well. Put a quarter of this filling at the center of each
cut in pieces
T,
disk. Close each calzone by folding the dough over and
10 oz. fresh provolone or
fior di latte cheese, cubed pressing down along the edges with the tines of a fork.

34 cup grated Parmigiarfo-Reggiano Put a pat of lard on each calzone and, if desired, a table-

4tbsp. lard spoon of tomato puree. Bake for about 10 minutes.

A cup fresh tomato puree (optional)

Salt and pepper

CALZUNCIELLI
I FASTING DAY FOR
DI SCAMMARO I (MEATLESS) CALZONE 6 PERSONS

CAMPANIA Mix together the flour, a dash of salt, 34 cup of the olive

oil, yeast with its water, and enough additional water

For the dough: (% to 1 cup should be sufficient) to obtain a somewhat
3 cups all-purpose flour, soft dough. Knead well, until the dough is smooth and
plus more as needed
elastic. Cover the dough with a kitchen towel and let rise
2
A cup extra-virgin olive oil
for 2 hours. This is a standard dough (of about 134
234 tsp. active dry yeast,
pounds) that can be used for many bread and pizza rec-
dissolved in 2 tbsp. warm water
ipes. Flour a sheet pan and set aside. Heat the anchovy
For the filling: fillets in a pan with their olive oil over very low heat until

2 anchovy fillets packed in oil they are melted. Raise the heat slightly and saute the gar-
1 garlic clove lic, removing it and discarding it when it is golden. Add
2 heads of escarole, the escarole and stir to blend. Continue cooking, adding
boiled, drained, and chopped
the capers and olives and, if desired, pine nuts and rai-
3
A cup capers, crushed
sins. Divide the dough into egg-size lumps, then with
3 k cup pitted and chopped
floured hands pat them out to form disks about 4 inches
black olives (Gaeta if possible)
in diameter. Arrange these disks on the pan and put a
34 cup each pine nuts and raisins
(optional) little of the escarole mixture at the center of each. Fold

Olive oil
over the disks to close and press down along the edges

Salt with the tines of a fork to seal. Heat 1 34 inches of olive

oil in a wide high-sided pan. Fry the calzoni until golden,
drain on paper towels, and serve.

13
 1 1

CAPONATA CAPONATA
CAMPANIA This dish is typical of Maddaloni.

In a large salad bowl combine the anchovies, cauliflower,

4 salt-cured anchovies
pickled vegetables, papaccelle, escarole, lettuce, capers,
1 lb. cauliflower,
and olives. Season with a little salt, pepper, olive oil, and
cleaned, boiled, and chopped

6 oz. mixed pickled vegetables,

% cup of the vinegar and mix energetically. Place the
chopped freselle in a bowl and add the wine and remaining vinegar
2 papaccelle (pickled peppers), and let stand; when they are softened crumble them
chopped into the salad mixture, mixing well to make the mixture
1 head escarole, chopped smooth. Top with the mackerel.
1 head lettuce, chopped
Zi cup capers
Zi cup black olives (preferably
Gaeta), pitted and chopped

% cup olive oil

3
A cup white wine vinegar

4 freselle (bread biscuits)

1 cup white wine

Zi lb. mackerel, poached and

seasoned with olive oil and lemon
Salt and pepper

CAPONATA 2 1 CAPONATA 2

MOLISE Briefly soak the taralli in lightly salted water, sprinkle

them with the vinegar, and let them dry for 5 minutes on
4 taralli (savory biscuits
a kitchen cloth. Place the taralli on a serving plate and
similar to pretzels)
cover them with the tomatoes, celery, pepper, cucum-
Splash white wine vinegar
ber, garlic, and olives; garnish this with slices of hard-
4 firm plum tomatoes, chopped
boiled eggs and anchovies. Season the caponata with
2 celery stalks, chopped
oregano, salt, and olive oil, and let it sit for about half an
1 large and fleshy sweet pepper,
chopped hour in the refrigerator before serving.

1 cucumber, cleaned and chopped

2 garlic cloves, chopped

Green and black olives as desired

2 large hard-boiled eggs, sliced

4 oz. anchovies in oil

Pinch dried oregano

14 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Salt

14
 CAPPUNADDA 3 CAPONATA 3

LIGURIA This dish is typical of Imperia.

Soak the crackers in water until soft, drain thoroughly,

2 hardtack crackers
and put them in a salad bowl with the tuna, anchovies,
1 small can tuna in oil,
mosciame, olives, and capers. Season with olive oil, vin-
drained and broken up
egar, and salt to taste. Mix carefully and let stand at least
3 anchovies, boned and chopped
1 hour before serving.
2 oz. mosciame
(salt-cured tuna loin), sliced

Zi cup green olives

1 tbsp. capers, rinsed

Extra-virgin olive oil

White wine vinegar

Salt

LOCAL TRADITION
CARNE ’NCARTARATA
Following the method for came 'ncartaratai, or “aged meat,” from Calabria entails
thickly slicing both fat and lean portions of porkand arranging the slices in layers with-

in an enameled earthenware crock — preferably a salaturi, a traditional wide-mouthed

container about 8 inches in diameter. Each layer is spread with salt and pieces of
Calabrian red chili pepper and pressed. A wooden plank is placed on top of the vessel
and weighted, and the carne is left to age for several months in a cool place.

CASTAGNE BOLLITE BOILED CHESTNUTS

CON BURRO WITH BUTTER
VALLE D'AOSTA This dish is typical of the German-speaking Walser commu-
nity in Aosta. The chestnuts can be used as a side dish to
accompany other specialties of the area, such as lard d’Arnad
(see page \2),jambon de Bosses, Valdostan sausages, and
cooked blood pudding. Dried chestnuts can be used in place
of fresh, but they must be soaked in lukewarm water over-
night before being cooked. Instead of boiling the chestnuts
in water, you can use whey or buttermilk.

15
 Vi lb. fresh chestnuts Shell the chestnuts, cover them with several inches of
4 tbsp. O/2 stick) unsalted butter lightly salted water, and boil- them. When cooked (be-
H cup superfine sugar or to taste tween 30 minutes and an hour, depending on how fresh
Salt the chestnuts are), drain well. Heat the butter in a pan
and add the chestnuts, tossing to coat. If desired, add
sugar and cook until the sugar has melted.

LOCAL TRADITION
CARNESECCA VALDOSTANA
This Valdostan artisan method of drying and curing a haunch of chamois, goat, or
ibex — called moccetta — is traditionally performed during the months of November
and December. The meat is placed in a large wooden tub on a bed of coarse salt sea-
soned with sprigs of rosemary, sage, and mountain thyme; garlic; a sliced onion; and
juniper berries. Then the meat is dusted with black pepper and covered with another
layer of salt and herbs and left, covered with a weighted plank, in a cool place for at
least 20 days. After removing the meat from the salt, it is dried with a cloth, dusted
again with black pepper, and hung or left in a cool, airy spot —such as an attic — to
desiccate for at least one month.

CHIOCCIOLE
SNAILS WITH
A PICCHI PACCHI PICCHI PACCHI SAUCE
SICILIA Before being cooked the snails must be purified: Put
them in a large basket, firmly sealed so they cannot es-
2 lbs. vaccareddi (large snails)
cape, and leave them for 24 hours. Wash them carefully,
2 tbsp. olive oil
then put them in a pan, cover with cold water, and place
1 medium onion, cut in thin slices
over low heat, letting them cook for about 2 hours. Drain
4 ripe plum tomatoes,
well and set aside. Heat the olive oil in a pan and saute
peeled and seeded
the onion. Add the snails and stir them around
Pinch chili pepper flakes (optional)
a little, then add the tomatoes, salt, black pepper, chili
2 tbsp. chopped flat-leaf parsley
(or basil) pepper (if desired), and parsley (or basil). Carefully stir

Salt and black pepper and cook, covered, another 15 minutes. The dish can be
served hot or cold.

16
 CIAMBELLE
RING CAKES YIELDS
COL FORM AGGIO WITH CHEESE 10 CIAMBELLE

UMBRIA These are typical of the area around Todi, where they are
made using that area’s excellent pecorino.
3 tbsp. olive oil
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Grease a baking sheet with
5 oz. pecorino dolce cheese
olive oil. Grate half the pecorino and break the other
3 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
half into small pieces. Work the cheese and olive oil into
3
1 A lbs. br&ad dough
the bread dough, eventually forming it into a loaf; let this
already leavened (see page 13)
rise again. Divide the dough into 10 equal pieces. Roll
each piece into a rope and form into a ring, pinching the
ends together to close the ring. Arrange them on the
baking sheet, leaving space between them, and bake for
about 20 minutes, until golden. Let cool before serving.

LOCAL TRADITION
C I A L D E

This traditional dish of Genoa for fried wafers stuffed with veal calls for cialde, large

wafers only found in certain bakeries. The preparation begins with onion and parsley
sauteed in nutter and olive oil, to which is added veal, including ground veal, chopped
cow’s udder, chopped sweetbreads, and granelli (testicles). This mixture is cooked
slowly and thinned with broth, and after an hour sliced artichokes and schienale (spi-
nal marrow) are added to the pan. The mixture can be either finely chopped by hand
or in a blender. Fresh peas and egg yolks are added once the mixture has cooled.
One tablespoon of the mixture is spooned into the center of a cialde that has been
dampened with broth only enough to become pliable. The wafer is then closed like a

package and the edges sealed, then dipped in whipped egg whites and breadcrumbs,
and fried in olive oil.

17
 LOCAL TRADITION
C I A R L A

This basic recipe for pizza dough from Lazio is the same as that used to make bread:
A simple mixture of flour, water, and yeast is prepared in the same method as on
page 13. The dough is baked in a pizza oven heated to its highest temperature; when
the pizza is well cooked, it should be removed from the oven, halved crosswise, and
seasoned with a layer of ricotta, thin slices of fresh pecorino, or prosciutto crudo. It

was also once common to spread a thin layer of honey over freshly baked pizza dough
and eat it folded while still hot.

CIPOLLE RIPIENE
ONIONS STUFFED
D I CARNE WITH MEAT
PIEMONTE Preheat the oven to 350°F. Boil the onions in lightly
salted water to cover until soft. Cut off the tops of the
2 lbs. onions (preferably the
onions and scoop out the insides to form bowls. Mix
flat onions called cipolline)
the herbs with the onion pulp. Add the veal. Heat the
1 tbsp. aromatic herbs
(flat-leaf parsley, sage, rosemary, butter and saute the veal mixture; salt to taste. Drain
thyme), finely chopped the bread (reserve the milk) and raisins, then work them
Zi cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, into the meat mixture, adding half the eggs and 2 table-
plus more fortopping
spoons cheese. Stuff this mixture into the onion bowls
8 oz. ground veal
and place them on a baking sheet. Beat the remaining
1 stale roll, grated, then
eggs with the remaining cheese and add 1 tablespoon of
soaked in milk until soft
the milk. Pour this over the onions almost to cover them.
Vi cup raisins,
softened in warm water Dot each onion with butter. Bake until the surface is

4 large eggs, beaten browned, about 20 minutes.

3
A cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

Salt

CIPOLLE RIPIENE
MEATLESS
D I MAGRO STUFFED ONIONS
PIEMONTE This is the main dish in the traditional cooking of Caravino,
the town that was the source of this recipe. In the past it was
prepared only for the feast day of the local patron saint,
James, and for that of the Assumption.

18
 4 tbsp. (V2 stick) unsalted butter Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a baking sheet with
2 lbs. medium yellow onions, butter. Peel the onions and cook them in lightly salted
with the tops cut off
water to cover. When they begin to open, remove them
Vi lb. stale bread,
from the water, drain upside down in a colander, and let
soaked overnight in milk
cool. Remove the center from each onion, being care-
3 large eggs, beaten
ful not to break the resulting “cup.” Arrange these cups
Vi cup grated Pd^migiano-Reggiano
on the baking sheet. For the filling, squeeze the bread
Vi cup golden raisins, softened
dry and pass it through a food mill. Finely chop the in-
Pinch gratpd nutmeg
teriors of the onions and mix them into the bread. In
Various spices
(marjoram and thyme) a large pan melt 2 tablespoons butter and saute the bread
Salt and onion for about 10 minutes, stirring continuously

to keep it from sticking to the bottom of the pan. Put

the mixture in a bowl and add the eggs, Parmigiano-
Reggiano, raisins, nutmeg, spices, and salt. Fill the
onion cups with this mixture and dot each with butter.
Bake until a golden crust has formed on each onion.
These can be served hot or cold, as an appetizer or entree.
As a light meal, they can replace the main dish.

LOCAL TRADITION
ONIONS IN THE
PIEDMONTESE TRADITION
Onions have been cultivated in Piedmont since ancient times, as indicated by numer-
ous medieval documents. According to Sandro Doglio, author of a dictionary of Pied-
montese gastronomy, stuffed onions originated in the area around Turin, in particular
at Settimo Torinese, where they have long represented the typical dish served on the
last Sunday in August. Even so, the cultivation of onions has always been traditionally
tied to the area around Canavese, where even today onions — filled with a variety of
mixtures that vary from town to town — are a constant in meals prepared for impor-
tant occasions. The versions change from place to place, and aside from those given
here, there are those based on yellow squash, amaretti cookies, mostarda, and eggs.
A curious version popular in old Piedmont called for baked onions stuffed with a mix-

ture of powdered cacao, amaretti, egg yolks, and chopped onion (thus very much like

the classical stuffing used for peaches). Such chocolate-filled onions were served as
a side dish to meats.

Another filling for onions is cooked rice, with the addition of roast meat or salame
or herbs. It seems likely that in the past onions were filled with whatever happened to
be left over from the previous day’s meals.

19
 POTATO SALAD
WITH ANCHOVIES,
CONDION OLIVES, AND TOMATO
LIGURIA This dish is typical of the Riviera di Ponente.

Combine the tomatoes, cucumber, potatoes, chili pep-

1 lb. plum tomatoes,
per, olives, and anchovies; add the chopped basil. Season
not overly ripe, sliced
with a little salt, olive oil, and vinegar and mix carefully.
1 cucumber, sliced
Top with the eggs and serve.
2 potatoes, boiled and sliced

1 chili pepper, cut in strips

Zi cup pickled green olives,

pitted and diced

5 salt-cured anchovies,
rinsed of the salt

Several basil leaves, chopped

3 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

2 tbsp. white wine vinegar

2 large hard-boiled eggs,

cut in sections

Salt

LOCAL TRADITION
CO P PA

The Umbrian pork sausage known as coppa is emblematic of the custom of making use
of every part of a slaughtered pig. In a sense, everything that is not used in some other
way goes into it, from tendons and gristle to fat, cartilage, and rind. The cleaning of
the animal, the so-called toletta, is thus of primary importance. The better the variety
of parts is, the better the coppa will be. The procedure goes as follows: Collect bones
from which the meat has already been roughly removed and combine them with a few
pork rinds, trotters, head, and ears (carefully cleaned and washed several times), and
set all this to boil in water perfumed with fennel seeds, orange zest, and a few cloves.

When it has cooked, detach the meat from the still-hot bones and chop it all up in a

rough way, flavoring with salt, pepper, garlic cloves, and grated orange zest. Add salt
as needed, working all this together by hand and then stuffing the mixture into a can-

vas sack. Tie it tightly closed and place it under a weight for a few days. The coppa, cut
in thin slices, is excellent as part of an antipasto plate, but is also great on its own with
a slice of peasant-style bread or a piece of hot foccacia.

20
 FOR
COPPIETTA SMOKED SPICED YEAL 6 persons

TOSCANA This dish is typical of the butteri (“cowboys”) of the Maremma

area. When a horse or donkey being raised in the wild e died,

2 lbs. veal tenderloin or top round its hind quarters were used to make coppietta. Today, given

Wild fennel the scarcity of animals raised wild, steers are used instead.

Chili pepper flakes Cut the meat into strips about 8 inches long and 1 inch
3 garlic cloves, finely chopped wide. Combine all the other ingredients with the meat in
Mi cup salt a large container. Mix well and let rest a few hours.
Pepper Smoke the strips of meat by attaching them to the top of

a fireplace for 2 or 3 days (or use a barbecue smoker) .

The strips can be eaten cut in pieces with stale bread

and red wine.

COPPIETTE MEAT JERKY

LAZIO This dish is typical of Rome and the Viterbo and Pontino areas.

Cut the meat into 4-inch strips. Season with salt and
2 lbs. tender donkey, horse,
chili pepper. Attach near the heat of a fireplace so that it
or steer meat

Zi tsp. chili pepper flakes

can dry and smoke well. When the strips have been

Salt
smoked, preheat the oven to 275°F and bake for a few
minutes to dry further. Eat at room temperature, ac-
companied by a good dry white wine. If you prefer them
softer, thread onto skewers and heat over charcoal.

COZZE GRATINATE MUSSELS AU GRATIN

ABRUZZO This dish can be prepared without the tomato puree, and the
mussels can be served with just a dusting of pecorino.
4tbsp. breadcrumbs
Preheat the oven to 400°F. In a bowl combine the bread-
3 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
crumbs, olive oil, garlic, and parsley with a little lemon
1 large garlic clove, chopped
juice and tomato puree just to bind. Stuff this mixture
2 tbsp. chopped flat-leaf parsley
into the mussels and bake them until the stuffing is
1 tsp. lemon juice
golden, about 15 minutes.
1 tbsp. tomato puree
4 lbs. mussels, washed and opened

21
 COZZE RIPIENE STUFFED MUSSELS
MOLISE Diavolillo means' “little devil” and is a very hot chili pepper.
Thai bird chilies or several red serrano peppers can be used
1 cup extra-virgin olive oil, in place of the diavolillo.
or as needed
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Grease a baking pan with
2 lbs. mussels (use somewhat large
olive oil. Scrape off any barnacles or beards from the
seaside mussels)
mussels, brush, and rinse under running water. Ar-
Zi cup stale bread without crust
range the mussels in a pot, cover, and cook them over
2 tbsp. grated pecorino
high heat in nothing more than the seawater they give up
2 tbsp. chopped flat-leaf parsley
until they open. As soon as they are all open, remove the
2 garlic cloves, minced

1 diavolillo (see note), minced

pan from the heat. Crumble the bread into a bowl,
adding the pecorino, parsley, garlic, and diavolillo. Work
in just enough olive oil to bind; use this mixture to fill

the mussels. Arrange the stuffed mussels on the pan,

sprinkle with more olive oil, and bake in the oven 1 0 min-
utes, or until they are lightly browned.

CRESCIA D PASQUA I
EASTER FOR
COL FORM AGGIO CHEESE BREAD 10 PERSONS

UMBRIA There is also an Easter pizza, typical of the area of Foligno,

that is made without butter, Parmigiano-Reggiano, milk, or

2 lbs. all-purpose flour, Gruyere, but instead with sharp aged pecorino. When, after
plus more as needed about 10 days, it begins to harden, it is cut into cubes and
1 lb. bread starter (see note), added to broth (meat or vegetable) To make . a bread starter,
1 Zi cups
dissolved in
mix together Zi teaspoon active dry yeast, 2 cups of warm
slightly warmed milk and
water, and 4 Zi cups all-purpose flour. Let rise at room tem-
1 Zi cups lukewarm water
perature overnight. Then refrigerate until needed.
Zi cup (1 stick) plus 3 tbsp.
unsalted butter On the night before the preparation, form a well with the
Zi cup slightly warmed milk flour on a work surface, add the starter and enough
1 oz. active dry yeast water to bind, and form a loaf. Cut a cross into the sur-

10 large eggs, beaten face to facilitate its rising and cover with a cloth to hold

cups grated
1 Vi in the heat. The next morning preheat the oven to
Parmigiano-Reggiano 400°F. Grease several deep pans with butter or lard. Re-
4 oz. Gruyere, cubed work the loaf with the milk and active dry yeast. In a large
4 tbsp. lard
bowl mix the eggs, Parmigiano-Reggiano, Gruyere, but-
Zi cup salt
ter, lard, and salt; mix well and work into the dough.

Knead this mixture until it is soft. Divide the dough

among the prepared pans, using an amount for each that
does not extend more than halfway up the pan. Bake
until golden and the loaves sound hollow when tapped,

about 45 minutes.

22
 FLATBREAD WITH GREENS
CRESCIONE AND SAUSAGE
EMILIA-ROMAGNA Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a baking pan with
lard. Combine the ingredients as on page 13 to form an
For the dough:
elastic, soft dough. Divide into loaves (balls) and let rest
4 oz. lard
for 30 minutes covered by a cloth. Roll out the balls to
2 cups all-purpose flour,
form disks about 6 inches in diameter and a quarter of
plus more gs needed
an inch thick. Heat the olive oil or butter in a pan and
1 cup milk
add the lardo and pancetta. Cook until lightly golden,

For the filling: then add the garlic and cook until golden. Remove and
2 tbsp. olive oil or unsalted butter discard the garlic. Add the greens and toss briefly until

3 oz. lardo (see page 2) wilted; remove from the pan and set aside. Add the pro-

3 oz. pancetta sciutto, ciccioli, and sausage and cook until browned, then
2 garlic cloves add to the greens and work together; add the herbs.
6 cups mixed greens (spinach, Top each disk of dough with the filling. Fold the dough
collard greens, beet greens,
over to form a half-moon shape, then seal closed with
radicchio, chicory)
the tines of a fork, much like making a large raviolo. Bake
Ya lb. meat from a prosciutto bone,
diced
until golden, about 20 minutes.

Ya lb. fresh ciccioli

(see note, page 12), chopped
Ya lb. fresh sausage meat, crumbled

Aromatic herbs (flat-leaf parsley,

sage, rosemary, thyme), chopped

Salt

CRESPELLE RING-SHAPED FRITTERS

LAZIO In the Ciociaria area, these are made for the midday “fast”
on Christmas Eve. They are quite different from the crepe-
1 % cups all-purpose flour, like crespelle from other regions.
plus more as needed
Knead the flour with 6 tablespoons lukewarm water, egg,
1 large egg
yeast, and salt; the resulting dough should be soft. Put
% oz. active dry yeast
it in a bowl and let rise for about 1 hour. Heat several
Extra-virgin olive oil
inches of oil in a saucepan. Using a spoon or wet fingers
Salt
form hunks of dough into rings and put them immedi-
ately into the hot oil. Fry until light golden, drain on
paper towels, and serve.

23
 CROSTINI AL MIRTO MYRTLE CREAM CROSTINI
TOSCANA This dish is typical of Empoli. The distinctive flavor of myrtle,
a Mediterranean evergreen shrub that grows commonly on
% cup fresh myrtle berries the coasts and islands, is somewhat like that of juniper and

Vi garlic clove rosemary, and was once as common as pepper in Italian cui-

Vi cup (1 stick) unsalted butter

sine. On the island of Sardinia, it’s used to make a famous
liqueur called mirto.
2tbsp. olive oil

Slices of wholegrain bread, toasted Chop together the berries and garlic. Work together with

Salt and pepper the other ingredients to obtain a mixture with the preva-
lent perfume and flavor of myrtle. Spread on slices of
toasted wholegrain bread.

CROSTINI
CROSTINI WITH ANCHOVIES
ALLA PROVATURA AND PROVATURA
CAMPANIA Crostini have a long history in Italy: There are recipes for
this dish that date back to the 1500s. The provatura in the
Zi cup (1 stick) unsalted butter title of this dish from Campania is a kind of buffalo-milk

1 lb. stale bread cheese, similar to mozzarella.

1 lb. fior di latte cheese (or provola) Preheat the oven to 45 CPF. Butter a tall, rectangular bak-
3tbsp. milk ing dish. Cut the crust from the bread to create slices the
6 anchovies in oil size of a playing card. Cut the fior di latte (or provola) in
slices of the same size. Arrange alternating layers of
bread and cheese in the baking dish; this can be done
more easily by threading them on a long wooden skewer
to keep them together. Brush the crostini with cold milk.
Bake until the cheese has softened and the bread is

toasted. Meanwhile, heat the butter and add the ancho-

vies. Cook over low heat, stirring until the anchovies are
melted. Pour the mixture over the bread and cheese,
then let bake another minute and serve hot.

CROSTINI CON LE COZZE CROSTINI WITH MUSSELS

MOLISE Heat an inch of olive oil in a high-sided pan. Dampen the
slices of bread in the vinegar; let dry for several minutes
For the crostini:
on a clean cloth. Fry the bread until golden brown and
Olive oil
crunchy. Remove them with a slotted spoon, drain, and
CONTINUED Clean the mussels,
set aside to dry on paper towels.

24
 8 slices stale peasant-style bread removing the beards, scraping them, and rinsing under
Zi cup white wine vinegar running water. Put them in a covered pot and cook them
over high heat until they open. Drain the mussels, pre-
For the mussels:
serving the liquid and discarding the shells. Prepare
2 lbs. mussels
the seasoning: Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a pan and
2tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
saute the garlic and diavolillo. Add the mussels, a cup of
2 garlic cloves, chopped
their liquid (add water as need to make a cup of liquid),
1 diavolillo (hot chili pepper;
and bay leaves; cook 5 minutes, then add the wine. As
see not$, page 22)
soon as the liquid has evaporated add the parsley. Ar-
2 bay leaves
range the bread on individual plates, and pour over each
% cup dry white wine
a ladleful of mussels with their cooking sauce and serve.
2 tbsp. chopped flat-leaf parsley

CROSTINI
1 CROSTINI
D FEGATINI E
1 MILZA ! WITH LIVER AND SPLEEN
TOSCANA This typical dish of Siena can also be made without the
spleen.

6oz. calfs spleen Remove the skin from the spleen and clean the livers;
3 chicken livers
cut both into somewhat large pieces. Heat the olive oil
2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
in a pan and saute the onion and celery. Add the spleen
Zi medium onion, finely chopped
and livers to the pan. Add the white wine and continue
celery stalk, finely chopped
1
cooking, stirring often. When the wine has evaporated
Z3 cup white wine
add the broth and capers. Cook until the sauce has thick-
1 cup broth
ened. Remove the meats and slice thinly. Return them
1 tbsp. capers, rinsed
to the mixture and add a little butter, salt, and pepper to
Unsalted butter
taste. Sprinkle the bread with lukewarm broth to soften
8 slices stale peasant-style bread,
slightly, then spread the slices with the meat mixture.
toasted

Salt and pepper

CROSTINI
CHICKEN-LIVER PATE
D PATE Dl FEGATINI
1 1 CANAPES
TOSCANA Rinse and clean the chicken livers. Simmer in the broth
until the liver is just pink in the center. Crush with a fork
2 chicken livers
and mix in the butter, salt, and capers until a paste is
1 cup beef broth
formed. Spread this mixture on small pieces of lightly
4 tbsp. {Zi stick) unsalted butter,
toasted peasant-style bread and decorate each with a
cut into small pieces
parsley leaf.
1 tsp. chopped capers
Slices of peasant-style bread, toasted

Flat-leaf parsley leaves

Salt

25
 CRUDO D I CALAMARETTI MARINATED SQUID
ABRUZZO This dish is typical of the fishermen of PeScara.

Put the squid and the onion in a bowl. Salt and season
10 oz. small tender squid
with olive oil, vinegar, and chili pepper flakes. Let stand
1 medium onion, thinly sliced
briefly before serving:
Zi cup extra-virgin olive oil

Vi cup red wine vinegar

Pinch chili pepper flakes

Salt

FOR
ERBAZZONE SPINACH PIE 6 PERSONS

EMILIA-ROMAGNA This dishis typical of Reggio Emilia, where a rustic vegetable

pie was long a traditional standby for picnics in the country-

3 lbs. spinach or Swiss chard, side, washed down with Lambrusco wine. Today, it also ap-
washed pears as an appetizer and is eaten in bars and cafes as a
4tbsp. (1 stick) unsalted butter quick morning snack.
2 oz. lardo (see page 2) Preheat the oven to 350°F. Steam the spinach or Swiss
1 medium onion, finely diced
chard in about Zz cup water until wilted, drain, pat dry,
1 garlic clove, minced and chop. Heat the butter and lardo in a pan and saute
% cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano the onion until soft; add the spinach and garlic and cook
2tbsp. olive oil
5 minutes. Cool and work in the Parmigiano-Reggiano,
1 A cups
2
all-purpose flour,
olive oil, salt, and pepper. Use the flour to prepare a
plus more as needed
pasta dough as on page 1 0, using Vz cup water in place
2 oz. pancetta, minced
of the eggs. Roll out half the dough to form a sheet (see
Salt and pepper
note, page 212) to line a large pan; put the filling over
this in a single thick layer. Roll out the other half of the
dough to form a sheet to cover and place it over the
filling, pleating the dough slightly to create ripples.

Decorate with the pancetta. Bake until the surface is

completely browned. Serve hot.

FARINATA CHICKPEA CREPE

LIGURIA This dish is typical of San Remo.

Whisk together the chickpea flour with % cup water and

1%cups chickpea flour,
a pinch of salt to form a thick batter; set aside to rest
plus more as needed
1 2 hours. Spoon off the foam that will have formed and
Olive oil

remix the batter; pass through a sieve. Preheat the oven

CONTINUED
to 425°F. Generously grease a baking sheet with olive oil.

26
 1 medium onion, minced Add the batter, spreading it across the oil with a wooden
Salt and pepper spoon. Sprinkle the onion over the surface along with a
few grindings of black pepper. Bake for about 20 min-
utes, or until the crust has become golden. Serve warm.

FARINATA DEL TIGULLIO CHICKPEA FLATBREAD

LIGURIA The final product should possess the following sensory traits:
pleasing odor and tasty sui generis flavor. It should be no
6 cups chickpea flour, more than one-quarter of an inch thick with a soft interior
plus more as needed and crunchy surface.
1 tsp. salt
Blend the chickpea flour, salt, and enough water (about
Zi cup olive oil
2 cups) to make a soft dough. Set aside for 4 hours.
Preheat a wood-burning oven or Skim off the mix-
grill.

ture and carefully mix with a wooden spoon before

transferring it to a copper baking pan. Cover evenly with
the olive oil. Bake for 10 minutes, or until the surface

forms a golden crust. Serve warm on heated plates.

FIORI Dl ZUCCHINI
STUFFED
ACCOCCOL ATI ZUCCHINI BLOSSOMS
PIEMONTE Heat half of the butter in a pan and cook the veal and
sausage meat until brown. In another pan heat the re-
For the blossoms:
maining butter and saute the Swiss chard. Simmer the
4 tbsp. O/2 stick) unsalted butter
zucchini in a little water until softened, then slice thin.
7 oz. ground veal
Combine the meats, chard, zucchini, herbs, bread, Par-
4 oz. sausage meat, crumbled
migiano-Reggiano, and egg. Salt to taste. Stuff the blos-
Vi cup chopped Swiss chard
soms with this mixture and arrange them upside down
2 baby zucchini
in a pan. Separately mix the eggs and milk and pour
1 tbsp. chopped aromatic herbs
over the stuffed blossoms (they will not be completely
(flat-leaf parsley, sage, rosemary,
bay leaf, thyme basil) covered) . Dot with butter. Cook over high heat until

Crustless bread, softened in milk the sauce has thickened and the flowers are golden.
and squeezed dry Serve hot.
2 tbsp. grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

1 large egg, beaten

8 zucchini blossoms, trimmed

For the sauce:

2 large eggs, beaten

1 tbsp. milk

2 tbsp. unsalted butter

Salt

27
 FOCACCIA FOCACCIA
LIGURIA Combine the flour with the yeast, salt, and 1 cup water as
instructed on page 13 to make a smooth dough. Cover
3 cups all-purpose flour,
with a cloth and let rise for at least 3 hours. Preheat the
plus more as needed
oven to 400°F. Grease a baking sheet with olive oil. Roll
214 tsp. active dry yeast
the dough to form a sheet with a thickness of about
1 cup extra-virgin olive oil
Vs inch and place on the baking sheet. Using the fingers
Fennel seeds
push down on the dough to form slight indentations in
Salt
it. Sprinkle with salt, olive oil, and fennel seeds. Bake for
about 20 minutes or until golden.

GUASTELLA FILLED FOCACCIA

CALABRIA This dialect name, guastella, recalls the derivation of the
word gastel from Old French. An excellent rustic focaccia,

3 cups all-purpose flour, this version is prepared in Calabria on Easter Monday.

plus more as needed
Sift the flour and form it into a well. Work in enough
214 tsp. active dry yeast,
water and the dissolved yeast to form an elastic dough.
dissolved in a little lukewarm water
Knead for 5 to 6 minutes, cover, and let rise in a warm
1 oz. lardo (see page 2)
place for about 1 hour; when it has risen divide the
2 oz. dry spicy sausage, chopped
dough in two parts. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease
2 large hard-boiled eggs,
cut into wedges a baking pan with the lardo and use half of the dough to

4 oz. provolone, cubed line it; fill evenly with the sausage, eggs, provolone, and
4 oz. pork rind, boiled and sliced pork rind. Sprinkle with pepper. Cover with the other
2 tbsp. unsalted butter half of the dough, using damp hands to press down to

Pepper make level. Dot with butter and bake for about 30 min-
utes until golden.

FOCACCIA CON
LA POLPA Dl OLIVA FOCACCIA WITH OLIVES
LIGURIA Sift the flour and form about half of it into a well on a

work surface or in a bowl. Pour in the yeast mixture and

3 cups all-purpose flour,
add 1 cup of water. Knead to form a dough for 5 to 6
plus more as needed
minutes, cover, and let rise in a warm place for about 214
214 tsp. active dry yeast,
dissolved in warm water hours. When the dough has risen, form a well with the
Yi cup extra-virgin olive oil remaining flour and put the risen dough in the middle of
CONTINUED it. Add 2 tablespoons olive oil, olives, salt, and 1 table-

spoon water. Knead for about 6 minutes and let rest

28
 1 cup pitted small black olives covered for another 2Vi hours. Preheat the oven to
(preferably Taggiasca olives
350°F. Grease a baking pan with olive oil. Roll out the
from Liguria), roughly chopped
dough or flatten it with your hands to a uniform thick-
Salt
ness. Sprinkle with the remaining olive oil and bake for
about 20 minutes until golden.

'

rf

PkTTEDDA
I FOCACCIA WITH OIL,
CHICCHIULIATA I TUNA, AND TOMATO
CALABRIA Using the flour, yeast, and water, prepare a dough as on
page 13. Place it in a baking pan and let rise for 1 hour.
3 cups all-purpose flour,
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Combine the tomatoes and
plus more as needed
1
olive oil and cook over high heat; season with salt. Mix in
2 /£tsp. active dry yeast
the tuna, anchovies, olives, and capers. Spread this mix-
1 % lbs.plum tomatoes,
peeled and seeded ture over the risen dough, and bake for about 30 minutes
/a cup olive oil until golden. This focaccia can be served hot or cold.
6 oz. tuna in oil, drained
and cut in small pieces

2 oz. anchovies, boned

% cup pitted black olives, halved

2 tbsp. salted capers, rinsed

Salt

I FOCACCIA FQR
PITTA CIU CASARICA I WITH RICOTTA 6 PERSONS

CALABRIA Work the olive oil into the dough and knead to blend

well. Divide the dough into two parts, one slightly larger
1 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
than the other. Preheat the oven to 425°F. Grease a
1 lb. bread dough (see page 13)
baking pan with 1 tablespoon lard. Roll out the dough to
2 tbsp. lard
obtain 2 disks. Use the larger one to line the pan, allow-
1 cup ricotta
ing the dough to extend half an inch over the sides.
4 oz. caciocavallo cheese, finely
Break up half the ricotta with the tines of a fork and
sliced
spread it over the dough in the pan. Add the cacioca-
4 oz. soppressata, sliced
vallo, soppressata, parsley, and eggs. Cover with the re-
1 tbsp. chopped flat-leaf parsley
maining ricotta and sprinkle with salt and pepper.
2 large hard-boiled eggs, thinly
sliced Place the remaining dough over this, folding the edges

Salt and pepper inward and brushing them with a little water to better
seal this large “pitta.” Pierce the surface with the tines of

a fork and dot with the remaining lard. Bake for about

40 minutes or until golden.

29
 SALVIADE FRIED SAGE LEAVES
FRIULI-VENEZIA GIULIA Combine the flour, egg, and salt to form a batter and let

rest at least 1 hour. Heat about 1 inch of olive oil in a

2
A cup all-purpose flour,
pan. Wash and dry the sage leaves, dip in the batter, and
plus more as needed
fry until golden. Serve immediately with a dash of salt.
1 large egg, beaten

40 large sage leaves

Olive oil

Salt

FORMAGGINO
D PERANCHE
1 MARINATED TOMA CHEESE
VALLE D'AOSTA This dish is typical of Courmayeur at the foot of Mont Blanc.

Whisk together the vinegar and salt. Slowly drizzle in the

Zi cup white wine vinegar
oil, whisking to emulsify. Add the other ingredients (ex-
1 cup extra-virgin olive oil
cept the toma and bread) and stir until they are well
2 tbsp. chopped flat-leaf parsley
mixed; season with salt and pepper. Arrange the toma
1 garlic clove, crushed
in a serving bowl, top with the mixture, and let marinate
Pinch chili pepper flakes
for several hours, covered. Serve with bread.
1 sage leaf

2 celery stalks, chopped

Pinch grated nutmeg

1 sprig thyme
(mountain thyme if possible)

12 small rounds of fresh toma

(can substitute unsalted
goat’s-milk cheese)

Slices of toasted bread

Salt and pepper

FRITTATA COL SALAME 1 SAUSAGE FRITTATA

LOMBARDIA In Milan this frittata is made using raw salame, cut in small
pieces and added to the beaten eggs with a little grated
Parmigiano-Reggiano. The frittata must be kept pale and
soft, for otherwise the salame will change flavor. In Monza
and in the area of Lomello this is made using luganega. This

frittata is excellent with a salad composed of finely chopped

chicory and new onions.

30
 2 tbsp. unsalted butter Heat the butter in a cast-iron pan over medium heat and
7 02 . sausage (preferably luganega), saute the sausage meat. After about 3 minutes pour in the
removed from the casings
white wine and let it evaporate. Spread the sausage in an
and crumbled
even layer in the pan. Meanwhile combine the eggs,
1 tbsp. dry white wine
Parmigiano-Reggiano, and salt and pepper. Reduce the
6 large eggs, beaten
heat to low and pour the egg mixture over the sausage.
2 tbsp. grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
Cook, carefully turning the frittata before its underside
Salt and pepper
becomes too browned. Serve warm.

I FRITTATA
FRITTATA CON IL GHIOZZO I WITH WHITEBAIT
FRIULI-VENEZIA GIULIA This dish is typical of the area north of Trieste.

Heat V2 inch of olive oil in a pan until hot. Dredge the

Olive oil
fish in flour and fry quickly until golden. Season the eggs
10 oz. freshwater whitebait
(Gobius fluviatilis), cleaned
with salt and add the fish and parsley. Heat % cup olive

oil in a cast-iron pan over medium heat, and add the

All-purpose flour
egg mixture. Cook until the bottom is set, then carefully
6 large eggs, beaten
turn the frittata before its underside becomes too
/} cup chopped flat-leaf parsley

Salt
browned and cook the other side quickly, just until set.

Serve warm.

LOCAL TRADITION
FRITTATA CON LE ERBE
This traditional herb frittata from Friuli-Venezia Giulia uses the buds of various
plants commonly eaten as cooked greens, primarily bladder campion (Silene vulgaris),
long pricklyhead poppy (Papaver argemone), oregluzze (Lychuis abba), and hops. It

is popular in spring and summer and is always prepared on June 24, the feast day of
St. John.

31
 FRITTATA Dl LUPPOLO HOPS FRITTATA
LOMBARDIA Chop the freshly gathered luvertis (hops) Heat half the .

butter over low heat and add the hops. Saute very briefly
2 cups luvertis (hops)
to give them flavor without frying, thus not making them
4tbsp. (1 stick) unsalted butter
lose their very mild natural flavor by boiling. Season
6 large eggs, beaten
the eggs with salt and pepper and Parmigiano-Reggiano.
2tbsp. grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
Heat the remaining butter in a cast-iron pan, add the egg
Salt and pepper
mixture, and cook as on page 3 1 , topping with the sau-
teed hops toward the end of cooking.

FRITTATA Dl TARTUFI
ALLA SPOLETINA TRUFFLE FRITTATA
UMBRIA Thoroughly clean the truffles under running water. Dry
them with a cloth and finely chop, grinding the larger
7 oz. black truffles pieces in a mortar. Season the eggs with salt. Heat the
5 large eggs, beaten olive oil in a pan and add the eggs, tilting the pan to cre-
2tbsp. olive oil ate an even layer. Add the truffles and cook the frittata,

Salt stirring with a wooden spoon. Carefully turn the frittata

onto a plate and turn off the heat. Let stand for about
30 seconds, then serve.

LOCAL TRADITION
FRITTATA Dl VITALBA
This classic springtime frittata, typical of Garfagnana, has the flavor of asparagus and
uses the tips of young clematis, which grows wild in the woods of Tuscany. The clema-

tis tips are washed, chopped, parboiled, and lightly floured before being cooked in a

hot pan with a little olive oil and garlic. To ensure a good, somewhat soft frittata, the

egg whites are beaten separately, then combined with the yolks and salt and pepper
to taste; up to 2 tablespoons of flour can be added, as well, if desired.

32
 FRITTATA PASQUALE EASTER FRITTATA
UMBRIA The sight, smell, and taste of this dish will make it abun-
dantly clear that spring has finally arrived. Serve cold at Eas-
1 artichoke, outer leaves and ter lunch. The serving dish can be garnished with leaves of
fu^y choke removed the hearts of chicory around the edges, making a sort of big
Juice of 1 lemon daisy, with room for the frittata in the center.

Zi cup aromptic herbs Slice the artichoke and place in water acidulated with
(Roman mint, costmary,
basil, marjoram, sage,
lemon juice. Grind the aromatic herbs in a mortar,

rosemary, mint, thyme) blending with 2 tablespoons olive oil to form a mush.
Zi cup olive oil Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a pan and cook the sau-
2 oz. sausage, crumbled sage, pancetta, and blood sausage; add the spinach and
1 oz. pancetta, diced arugula. In a separate pan, heat 2 tablespoons olive oil

Zr blood sausage and saute the onion and garlic. Remove the garlic when
4 oz. spinach blond and add the artichoke and asparagus. Reduce the
3 cups arugula heat to low. Add the sausage and herb mixtures to the
Zi medium onion, minced onion mixture and cook at low heat, adjusting for salt

Zi garlic clove and pepper. Remove from heat and add the salame. Add
A few stalks asparagus, to the eggs and mix well. Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil
woody ends trimmed,
in a cast-iron pan and cook the frittata as on page 31,
stalks chopped
making it thick and soft.
1 bunch flat-leaf parsley

1 oz. salame, diced

4 large eggs, beaten

Salt and pepper

FRITTATA ROGNOSA 1 SALAME FRITTATA 1

PIEMONTE Season the eggs with salt, pepper, and Parmigiano-

Reggiano. Heat the oil in a cast-iron pan and saute the
5 large eggs, beaten
salame. Add the eggs. Cook well, turning to cook both
2 tbsp. grated
sides, as on page 31
Parmigiano-Reggiano

2 tbsp. olive oil

4 oz. salame d’la duja

(pork sausages covered in lard),

crumbled
Salt and pepper

33
 FRITTATA ROGNOSA 2 SALAME FRITTATA 2

VENETO Season the eggs with salt; add the salame and parsley. In
a pan heat the olive oil and cook the onion; when just
4 large eggs, beaten
golden add the egg mixture and cook at low heat as on
4 oz. salame, minced
page 3 1 Serve hot.
.

2 tbsp. chopped flat-leaf parsley

2 tbsp. olive oil

1 medium onion, chopped

Salt

FRITTATA ROGNOSA ;
FRITTATA
DEL GARDA I
WITH GROUND MEAT
VENETO Boil the celery in water to cover for at least 30 minutes,
drain, then finely chop. Heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil
1 celery stalk
and the butter in a pan and saute the celery and onion.
3 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
Add the pancetta and salt to taste. Add the ground meat
1 tbsp. unsalted butter
and cook for 40 minutes. In a large bowl, beat the eggs
1 large onion, finely chopped
together with the Parmigiano-Reggiano. Add the cooked
2 oz. smoked pancetta, diced
ingredients to the egg mixture. Heat the remaining olive
A ground meat (pork or
lb.
oil in a pan and add the egg mixture. When it has cooked
mixed beef, veal, and salame)
on one side turn it over onto a lightly greased hot plate.
5 large fresh eggs, beaten
Let stand for 30 seconds and serve on warmed plates.
'A cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

Salt

FRITELLE Dl ACCIUGHE ANCHOVY FRITTERS

CALABRIA Put the flour in a terra-cotta pan, preferably a fully enam-
eled pan with flaring sides (a bavanu). Add the yeast mix-
6/2 cups all-purpose flour,
ture, a dash of salt, and blend. Work the dough, adding
plus more as needed
lukewarm water, until it is very soft; continue for another
Yi oz. active dry yeast,
diluted in 2 tbsp. lukewarm water 30 minutes, beating the dough to make it stringy. Cover

10 oz. salt-cured anchovies the dough with a cloth and let it rise 4 or 5 hours. Re-

Olive oil for frying move the bones from the anchovies, clean them, and chop
Salt them. When the dough has risen, heat a couple of inches
of oil in a pan, grease your hands with oil, take a little of
the dough (about 1 tablespoon), elongate it, insert a piece

of anchovy, enclose it, and fry until golden. Repeat this

procedure until the dough is used up. Serve very hot.

34
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date just before he went away this time, and that too in spite of the
fact that he had important papers to post before a given time.”
“Then you think he’s crazy?”
“I don’t know about that, because I’m not a doctor or an alienist,
or anything else of the kind. But I think he has a way of losing
himself now and then, though at ordinary times his head is a
remarkably clear one.”
“I have read of such cases,” said Dick. “They call it ‘double
consciousness,’ I believe. I don’t know whether it is regarded as a
kind of insanity or not. Then you think, Cal—”
“I hardly know what I think. You see I don’t know the facts in
this case. We know absolutely nothing of what Dunbar did or what
happened to him after he passed out of sight behind the marsh
island over there. So we haven’t enough facts to base any thinking
at all upon. But it has occurred to me that after he left us one of his
fits of self-forgetfulness may have come on, and it may have lasted
ever since.”
At this point the discussion of Dunbar’s case was brought to an
end by an unexpected happening. As Tom tugged hard at one of the
larger roots in an effort to loosen its hold, the keg suddenly fell to
pieces. The oaken staves and headings seemed still to be fairly
sound, but the iron hoops that had held the keg together had been
so eaten with rust that they fell into fragments under the strain and
the staves tumbled together in a loose pile.
From among them Tom drew forth something, and all the boys
held their torches close while examining it.
“What is it, anyhow?” was the question on every lip.
“It’s very heavy for its size,” said Tom, poising it in his hand.
“Of course it is,” answered Cal. “Lead usually is heavy for its size.
But that’s a box, made of lead. If it were solid it would be a good
deal heavier. Open it, Tom.”
“I can’t. It doesn’t seem to have any opening or any seams of
any kind. Look at it for yourself, Cal.”
 As he spoke he handed the thing to his comrade. It was an
oblong mass, seemingly hollow, but showing no sign of an opening
anywhere. It was about ten or eleven inches in length, a little more
than four inches wide, and about two inches thick from top to
bottom. The surface was much corroded, but Larry thought he
discovered a partly obliterated inscription of some kind upon it.
“We must stop handling the thing carelessly,” he said. “Corroded
as the surface is we might rub the inscription off, and in that way
rob ourselves of the means of making out the meaning of the thing.
We’ll carry it carefully to camp, quicken up the fire with plenty of
light wood, and then make a minute examination of the curious find.
Tom, you may have found a fortune for yourself this time, who
knows?”
“Or a misfortune,” suggested Dick, who in his childhood had been
a firm believer in all the mysteries and wonder workings recorded in
the Arabian Night’s Entertainments, and still recalled them upon the
smallest suggestion. “Shut up as it is, with no sign of an opening,
who knows but that it bears Solomon’s seal on it? The inscription
may be Solomon’s autograph, put there to hold captive some
malicious genie. We all know what happened to the fisherman who
let the smoke out of the copper vase.”
“Oh, I’ll take my chances on that sort of thing,” laughingly
answered Tom, who, as the discoverer, was recognized by his
comrades as the rightful owner of the box and the person entitled to
say what should be done with it.
“Of course,” said Cal. “Genii don’t play tricks in our time and
country. They’re afraid of the constable.”
The boys had reached the camp now, and a few minutes later a
pile of blazing fat pine made the space around it as light as day. For
an hour, perhaps, the boys minutely examined the queer casket.
There was, or had been, an inscription cut upon its upper surface
with the point of a penknife, but the corroding of the surface had so
far obliterated it that the boys succeeded only in doubtfully guessing
at a half-effaced letter here and there and in making out the figures
865 at the end of the writing.
 “That’s the date,” said Larry—“1865, the figure one obliterated.
Obviously the inscription tells us nothing. What next, Tom?”
Tom was minutely examining the sides of the case, scraping off
the rust with his thumb nail. Presently, instead of answering Larry’s
question, he cried out:
“Eureka! See here, boys! This box was made in two pieces
exactly alike, one top and the other bottom. The two have been
fitted together and then a hot iron has been drawn over the seam,
completely obliterating it. It’s the nicest job of sealing a thing up
water tight and air tight that I ever saw, but I’m going to spoil it.”
With that he opened his jackknife and very carefully drew its
point along the line where the upper and lower halves of the casket
had been joined. After he had traced the line twice with the knife
point the two halves suddenly fell apart, and some neatly folded and
endorsed papers were found within.
Tom began reading the endorsements, but before he had run half
through the first one he leaped up, waving the documents over his
head and shouting “hurrah!” in a way that Cal said was “like the
howling of a demon accidentally involved with the accentuations of a
buzz saw.”
After a moment the excited boy so far calmed his enthusiasm as
to throw the bundle of papers into Larry’s face, shouting:
“I’ve found the Quasi deeds! I’ve saved Quasi to its rightful
owners! Why don’t you all hurrah with me, you snails, you dormice
or dormouses, whichever is the proper plural of dormouse? There
are the papers and it was Tom Garnett who found them! For once
prying curiosity has served a good turn. Now, all together! Hip, hip,
hip, hurrah!”
The others joined heartily in the cheering that seemed necessary
for the relief of Tom’s excitement, and half-spoken, half-ejaculated
congratulations occupied the next five minutes.
After that the whole party sat down to hear the results of the
more thorough examination of the papers, which Larry was
delegated to make.
 “Yes, these are the deeds,” he reported, “uninjured by time or
damp or anything else, thanks to our grandfather’s care in sealing
that leaden box. They were executed in May, 1861, and see, down in
a corner of each is written:
“‘Recorded in the clerk’s office of Beaufort District, liber 211, pp.
371, 372, 373. J. S., Clerk.’
“And here’s a memorandum in our grandfather’s handwriting and
signed by him. It is on a separate sheet, dated in February, 1865,
and—”
“Read it!” suggested Cal.
“I will,” and he read as follows:
“‘The clerk’s office in which these deeds were recorded at the
time of their execution has been destroyed, together with all the
books of record. It is vitally necessary therefore that these original
deeds shall be preserved. In these troublous times there is no place
of deposit for them which can be deemed reasonably safe. I am
sealing them in this leaden box, therefore, and will bury them upon
the abandoned plantation of Quasi, to which they give title. I shall
plant a catalpa bean above them as a sure means of identifying the
spot, there being no other catalpa on the plantation. I shall send my
daughters a detailed statement of what I have done, with
instructions as to the way of finding the papers. I place this
memorandum in the box with the deeds themselves, so that if
anyone finds it he may know to whom its contents belong. The
address of my daughters will be found endorsed upon the deeds
themselves.’”
 XXXVII

TOM’S FINAL “FIND”

“Tom,” said Cal, taking the Virginia boy by the hand and warmly
greeting him, “you have crowned this expedition—”
“Oh, bother!” interrupted Tom. “You fellows are daffy. I’ve had
the good luck to find the deeds, but it was by sheer accident, and
anybody else might have—”
“But ‘anybody else’ didn’t, and that makes all the difference. Now
listen. I have the floor. I have restrained my natural impulse to do all
the talking lately until I’ve had to let out two holes in my belt. I was
going to hurl my best speech at your head, but you interrupted, and
now the graceful periods have slipped from memory’s grasp. I’ll
leave the task of adequate expression to my father. He’ll do it quite
as well as I can. But there’s one thing to which I must ask the
attention of the company here assembled.”
“What is it, Cal?” Dick asked.
“Why, simply that Tom has added another to the purposes with
which this expedition was undertaken. Our objects were sport and
adventure. We have had both, and now Tom has added a third—
achievement.”
“That’s all very well,” answered Tom, “but we haven’t made the
achievement yet. That will be when we deliver the deeds to your
father, and not till then. And we’ll never, never do that unless you
stop your nonsense and let us get to work on the catamaran, or raft,
or whatever else you call it. Our present job is to get away from
Quasi with the golden fleece. I suppose we ought to sleep now, but
—”
“But glue wouldn’t stick our eyelids together,” broke in Dick.
“Work’s the thing for us now. Let’s get at it. Oh, I say, Cal, what of
the tides? When will they set in strongly toward that little town up
there?”
Cal reckoned the matter up and named the hours at which the
young flood tides would begin to run. Then Dick thought a little and
asked:
“Is it all land-locked water from here to the town, or are there
openings to the sea?”
“All closely land-locked—all creeks,” Cal answered.
“Then if we work hard we can have the catamaran ready by to-
morrow noon—she won’t need to be much of a craft for such waters
—and we can make our start when the tide turns, about that time.
Let’s see; the distance is only ten or twelve miles, and the tide will
run up for six hours. That ought to take us there with no paddling or
poling except enough to keep the craft headed in the right direction.”
“We’ll do it,” declared Cal. “Now to work, all of us. Tell us what to
do, Dick.”
“Let one fellow make a lot of fresh torches,” the Boston boy
answered. “The rest of us can keep busy till daylight dragging
bamboos, big cane stalks and the cross braces down to the shore.
As soon as it is light enough in the morning we’ll fashion the two
larger timbers, and get them into the water. After that two or three
hours’ work will finish the job.”
“An excellent programme, so far as it goes,” muttered Cal, as if
only thinking aloud.
“Go ahead, Cal, what’s lacking?”
“Seems to me,” Cal responded, “that every member of this
company is in the habit of carrying a digestive apparatus somewhere
about his person. That’s all.”
 “Right, Cal!” Larry broke in. “We must have breakfast and dinner,
and I think I remember hearing that experienced navigator, Richard
Wentworth, say, once upon a time, that one should never venture
upon salt water without carrying a supply of provisions along.”
“I humbly submit to the rebuke,” answered Dick, with a laugh. “It
was forgetfulness, but forgetfulness is never quite pardonable. Some
one must go for game immediately after breakfast. We have enough
on hand for that meal.”
“I delegate you to that task, Tom,” said Larry. “Your habit of
finding things may hasten the job.”

✶ ✶ ✶ ✶ ✶ ✶

It was a little past noon when the company pushed away from
Quasi on the rude raft that served them for a ship, and were driven
by the strong flood tide through the maze of broad and narrow
passages among the marsh islands that lay between them and the
town on the mainland.
There was some discussion before they left Quasi as to what
they should do with the rifle and other things in Dunbar’s log lockup.
Larry settled the matter, saying:
“We’ll leave his belongings just where he placed them. We are
not likely to find him now, and—”
“And if he finds himself,” Tom broke in, “he’ll come to Quasi after
them. Wonder where the poor fellow is, anyhow, and what’s the
matter with him.”
Nobody could offer a conjecture that had not been discussed
before, and so the subject was dropped in favor of more immediate
concerns.

✶ ✶ ✶ ✶ ✶ ✶

The tide ran strong, and Dick’s “palatial passenger craft,” as Tom
called the raft, proved to be cork-like in its ability to float almost as
fast as the tide itself flowed. About five o’clock the last of the marsh
islands was passed, and the little town, perched upon high bluffs,
appeared. As the raft neared it, Tom suddenly called out:
“I’ve found something else! There’s the Hunkydory riding at
anchor in that little bay over yonder! Now, maybe the next find will
be Mr. Dunbar.”
While Larry was sending a telegram to his father, the others went
to the boat and with permission of the man in charge, examined it.
No accident had happened to it and nothing about it gave the least
hint that Dunbar had merely abandoned it. The sail was neatly
lashed to the boom; the mast and the rudder had been unshipped
and bestowed in the bilge. Every rope was coiled and every pulley
block ran free.
More significant still was the fact that the lockers were all filled
with food stuffs.
“Obviously he intended to return to Quasi,” Cal argued, “and laid
in supplies for us as he had promised. Whatever happened to him
must have occurred after that and just before the time he had set
for sailing. Let’s go up into the town and see what we can learn
about him.” Then pausing, he turned to the man in charge of the
boat and asked:
“Has she been lying at anchor and taking the chance of rain all
this time?”
“No,” the man answered. “She’s been in that there boat house,
but to-day the squire tole me to anchor her out in the sun for an
hour or two, an’ that’s what I’m a doin’.”
On their way they met Larry, who had telegraphed his father
both at the North and at Charleston, uncertain whether or not the
earthquake had hurried his home-coming. In his dispatches Larry
had said:
“Quasi deeds found by Tom Garnett, now in my possession and
in perfect order. Dory sails for Charleston immediately.”
Two hours later there came two telegrams from Major Rutledge
in Charleston, one of them addressed to Larry and the other to Tom
Garnett. The one to Larry sent congratulations and asked him to
hurry home as fast as he could. What was in Tom’s none of the boys
ever knew. Tom’s eyes were full of tears as he read it, though his
face was a gladly smiling one as he replaced the paper in its
envelope and carefully bestowed it in his pocket.
While waiting for these dispatches the boys made diligent
inquiries concerning Dunbar. He had arrived at the town about three
o’clock on the day of his leaving Quasi. He had intelligently
addressed and posted his manuscript and drawings. After that he
had bought camping supplies of every kind that the town could
furnish, and had loaded them very carefully into the dory. An hour
later he had been found sitting under a big tree and seemingly in
distress of some kind. He was unable to tell who he was, in answer
to inquiries. His mind seemed an absolute blank. Papers found on his
person gave a sufficient clue to his identity and the addresses of his
nearest friends. Telegrams were sent to them, and as soon as
possible they came and took the poor fellow away with them, a
magistrate meanwhile setting a deputy constable to care for the boat
and cargo till its owners should appear.
The young doctor whom Dunbar’s friends brought with them
explained to the old doctor of the town that for many years past
Dunbar had been the victim of a rather rare mental malady, causing
occasional complete lapses of memory.
“This present attack,” he added, “is lasting longer than usual. He
has hitherto been allowed to roam at will, to live in the woods and
pursue his investigations. Now, however, I shall strongly advise his
friends to keep him under some small restraint for the sake of his
own safety.”
“That ends the Dunbar incident,” said Larry when the old doctor
finished his relation of the facts. “Now we must be off for
Charleston. What do you say, boys? There’s a moon to-night and we
might as well get a little start before it sets.”
“My own judgment,” ventured Dick, “is that as we worked all of
last night, we’d better stay here till morning and get some sleep. But
‘I’m in the hands of my friends’ as the politicians say.”
 Dick’s suggestion was approved, and the sun was just rising the
next morning when the Hunkydory set sail. When the boys stepped
ashore at the Rutledge boathouse on the Ashley River, Major
Rutledge was there to greet them.
“We feared you boys might be in serious difficulty down at
Quasi,” he said, warmly shaking hands all round for the second time,
“and I was about setting out to rescue you, when Larry’s telegram
came.”
“We rescued ourselves, instead,” Cal replied; “and to us that is
more satisfactory.”
“It is very much better,” answered the father, catching Cal’s
meaning and heartily sympathizing with the proud sense of personal
achievement that lay behind.
“Come on home now, and over a proper dinner tell your mother
and me all about what happened at Quasi.”

THE END
 George Cary Eggleston’s
Juveniles

The Bale Marked Circle X

A Blockade Running Adventure
Illustrated by C. Chase Emerson. 12mo, red cloth, illustrated
cover, $1.50.-
Another of Mr. Eggleston’s stirring books for youth.
In it are told the adventures of three boy soldiers in
the Confederate Service who are sent in a sloop on a
secret voyage from Charleston to the Bahamas,
conveying a strange bale of cotton which holds
important documents. The boys pass through startling
adventures: they run the blockade, suffer shipwreck,
and finally reach their destination after the pluckiest
kind of effort.

Camp Venture
A Story of the Virginia Mountains
Illustrated by W. A. McCullough. 12mo, dark red cloth, illustrated
cover, $1.50.
The Louisville Courier Journal says: “George Cary Eggleston
has written a decidedly good tale of pluck and adventure in
‘Camp Venture.’ It will be of interest to young and old who enjoy
an exciting story, but there is also a great deal of instruction and
information in the book.”

The Last of the Flatboats

A Story of the Mississippi
Illustrated by Charlotte Harding. 12mo, green cloth, illustrated
cover, $1.50.
The Brooklyn Eagle says: “Mr. George Cary Eggleston, the
veteran editor and author, has scored a double success in his new
book, ‘The Last of the Flatboats,’ which has just been published.
Written primarily as a story for young readers, it contains many
things that are of interest to older people. Altogether, it is a
mighty good story, and well worth reading.”

Lothrop, Lee & Shepard Co.,

Boston.
 DAVE PORTER SERIES
By EDWARD STRATEMEYER

VOLUME FIVE
DAVE PORTER AND HIS CLASSMATES
Or For the Honor of Oak Hall
Illustrated by Charles Nuttall 12mo Cloth Price, $1.25

I
N this volume Dave is back at Oak Hall and he brings about the
complete reformation of a former bully, who was rapidly going to
the bad. Athletic events and jolly fun are constantly mingled, and
as evidence that the boys are not at school entirely for that, many
take high honors at the close of the year, Dave being prize essayist,
to the great delight of his friends.
“The best type of American schoolboy.”—Boston Globe.
“Athletic events are told with a zest that shows the author’s ability in
that direction.”—News, Buffalo, N. Y.
“Will hold the attention of the readers from beginning to end.”—
Citizen, Brooklyn, N. Y.
 VOLUME SIX
DAVE PORTER AT STAR RANCH
Or The Cowboy’s Secret
Illustrated by Lyle T. Hammond 12mo Cloth Price, $1.25

F
ROM his home, Dave, in company with his sister and some
chums, journeys to the boundless west. At the ranch the lads fall
in with both good and bad cowboys, and the hero has a thrilling
time of it riding a “busting bronco.” Some horses disappear in a
mysterious manner, and while trying to get back to the ranch on foot
two of the lads are caught in a furious storm, that blows down a big
tree on top of them. There are many scenes of hunting and
rounding-up of cattle, and once a stampede adds to the excitement.
Mr. Stratemeyer has traveled through the country he describes and
gives a picture as accurate as it is entertaining.
“The author of ‘Dave Porter’ is a prime favorite with the boys.”—
Bookseller, Newsdealer and Stationer.
“Edward Stratemeyer’s ‘Dave Porter’ has become exceedingly
popular.”—Boston Globe.
“Dave and his friends are nice, manly chaps.”—Times-Democrat, New
Orleans.

THE BOYS OF BROOKFIELD ACADEMY

By WARREN L. ELDRED
Illustrated by Arthur O. Scott Large 12mo Cloth $1.50
HIS story tells of a boys’ school, with a glorious past, but an
uncertain future, largely due to the wrong kind of a secret society, a
vital problem in hundreds of schools to-day.
T
The boys, after testing his patience
in every way that youthful ingenuity
can suggest, come to rally about an
athletic and brainy young graduate in the
splendid transformation of the society, and
soon of the entire academy, in one of the
best school and athletic stories yet written.
“Things are doing all the way through the
story, which is clean, manly and inspiring.”—
Christian Endeavor World.

THE LOOKOUT ISLAND CAMPERS

By WARREN L. ELDRED
Illustrated by Arthur O. Scott Large 12mo Cloth $1.50

T
HIS is a story of active boys of fifteen
or so. They are very fortunate in the
friendship of the principal of their
school and his friend, an athletic young
doctor. Under the care of these two they
go into camp on an island well suited to
the purpose, and within easy distance of a
thronged summer resort. A series of
exciting ball games and athletic contests
with the boys at the hotel naturally
follows, and the boys display as many
varieties of human nature as could their
elders.
“Mr. Eldred’s book is almost certain to meet with a ready response from
young readers, for not only are the boys filled with life and vigor of a true
youthful and appreciable variety but their experiences are entertaining in
themselves and may perhaps give the young readers ideas for summer
plans of their own.”—Chicago Tribune.
 U. S. SERVICE SERIES
By FRANCIS ROLT-WHEELER
Illustrations from photographs taken in work for U. S. Government
Large 12mo Cloth $1.50 per volume

THE BOY WITH THE U. S. SURVEY

A
PPEALING to the boy’s love of excitement,
this series gives actual experiences in
the different branches of United States
Government work little known to the
general public. This story describes the
thrilling adventures of members of the U.
S. Geological Survey, graphically woven
into a stirring narrative that both pleases
and instructs. The author enjoys an
intimate acquaintance with the chiefs of
the various bureaus in Washington, and is
able to obtain at first hand the material for
the books.
“There is abundant charm and vigor in the narrative which is sure to
please the boy readers and will do much toward stimulating their
patriotism by making them alive to the needs of conservation of the vast
resources of their country.”—Chicago News.
“This is a book one can heartily recommend for boys, and it has life
enough to suit the most eager of them.”—Christian Register, Boston.
 THE BOY WITH THE U. S.
FORESTERS
T
HE life of a typical boy is followed in all
its adventurous detail—the mighty
representative of our country’s
government, though young in years—a
youthful monarch in a vast domain of
forest. Replete with information, alive with
adventure, and inciting patriotism at every
step, this handsome book is one to be
instantly appreciated.
“It is at once a most entertaining and
instructive study of forestry and a most
delightful story of boy life in the service.”—
Cincinnati Times-Star.
“It is a fascinating romance of real life in our country, and will prove a
great pleasure and inspiration to the boys who read it.”—The Continent,
Chicago.
“No one beginning to read this book will willingly lay it down till he has
reached the last chapter.”—Christian Advocate, Cincinnati.

FIVE CHUMS SERIES

By NORMAN BRAINERD
12mo Cloth Illustrated $1.25 each

Winning His Shoulder Straps

 A
ROUSING story of life in a military
school by one who thoroughly knows
all its features. Bob Anderson, the
hero, is a good friend to tie to, and each of
his four particular friends is a worthy
companion, with well-sustained
individuality. Athletics are plentifully
featured, and every boy, good, bad, and
indifferent, is a natural fellow, who talks
and acts like a bright, up-to-date lad in
real life.
“The story throughout is clean and
wholesome, and will not fail to be appreciated
by any boy reader who has red blood in his veins.”—Kennebec Journal.
“There are school and athletic competitions, pranks and frolics and all
in all a book of which most boy readers will have no criticism to make.”—
Springfield Republican.

Winning the Eagle Prize

T
HE hero not only works his way at
Chatham Military School after his
father’s financial misfortune, but has
the pluck to try for a prize which means a
scholarship in college. It is very hard for a
lad of his make-up to do the requisite
studying, besides working and taking a
prominent part in athletics, and he is often
in trouble, for, unlike some others, who are
naturally antagonistic to the frank,
impulsive Billy, he scorns to evade
responsibility. His four friends are loyal to
the fullest extent, and all comes right in
the end.
 Athletics play a prominent part in the story and the whole is delightfully
stimulating in the fine ideals of life which it sets before its young
readers.”—Chicago News.
“The workmanship of the author is up to his high mark and this book is
one to be appreciated by any active reader who has not forgotten his
boyhood, or, if he is a boy yet, has the real boy spirit, clean, and
wholesome and natural.”—Buffalo News.

Larry Burke, Freshman

By FRANK I. ODELL
Illustrated by H. C. Edwards $1.25

T
HIS book bristles with activity:
baseball, football, ice-hockey,
basketball, track and field events, and
a regatta appearing, and each sport
brought in with expert accuracy of detail,
and realism that makes one live over his
own most thrilling athletic experiences.
Along with this is a charming narrative of
student life and comradeship—the golden
days that have no others like them. Every
boy and man who ever heard of a college
can take delight in this book.
“The high tone of most of the boys, their comradeship and good will
toward one another are felt through the whole book. And if ever a boy
deserved friends or success, it was the noble-hearted hero of the story,
Larry Burke.”—Louisville Courier-Journal.
“A boys’ book that is filled with healthy adventure and action from
cover to cover.”—Cincinnati Times-Star.

Tim and Roy in Camp

 By FRANK PENDLETON
Illustrated by J. W. Kennedy Large 12mo $1.50

I
N this book is crowded a wealth of
sport, adventure, Indian stories, hunting
and camping, facts about animals
encountered, and all that will please a
boy’s heart. A skilful hunter and trapper
takes his son, nephew, and two close
friends on such a hunting and camping trip
as their most vivid imagination could not
have improved upon. They are supremely
happy in their enjoyment in all that
pertains to the woods, and his camp-fire
stories of experiences with Indians. Each
of the boys has a chance to show his
bravery and resourcefulness, and each is equal to the occasion.
“The story is fascinating and contains not one thrill too many.”—
Chicago News.
“This is a great book for live, active boys, vigorous, wholesome,
instructive and entertaining, written by a man who certainly understands
and knows boys, and who knows how to give them the best kind of a
vacation.”—Portland Express.

For sale by all booksellers or sent postpaid on receipt of price by the publishers

LOTHROP, LEE & SHEPARD CO., BOSTON

 TRANSCRIBER’S NOTE:
—Obvious print and punctuation errors were corrected.
*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK WHAT HAPPENED
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