The Lotus Top
Pattern designed and created by Alanna Miall
Instagram: crochetwithalannamiall
Weblinks: www.hippydaze.com
You may post this design on social media and sell the
items you make from it, however always tag me as the
designer and please do not change the name of the
design. It is copyright infringement if you sell this
design as your own.
Materials: Level:
Advanced beginner
180m of any 4ply fingering weight
cotton yarn for size XS (UK 6). Size:
3.5mm crochet hook This sample size will fit a size extra small (UK
Tapestry needle 6), but is easily customizable.
Scissors
Tape measure You will need to take this measurements:
Stitch markers
Bust minus 8 inches
Abbreviations: US terminology
Above breasts to where you would like
the top to sit minus 3.5 inches (the
FSC - Foundation Single crochet - Please see
scalloped lace edging).
step 1 for how you do this. A FSC is better for
working out size, especially if you are a tight
crocheter. It brings the CH and the 1st row of
Pattern notes:
SC together into 1 stitch/chain.
The CH 3 always counts as the 1st DC
CH – Chain
throughout the pattern.
YO - Yarn over
The CH 1 never counts as a stitch.
SK - Skip
Back loop HDC - this means you place
SC - Single crochet
your HDC into only 1 loop of the stitch
HDC - Half double crochet
that sits below (back loop).
DC - Double crochet
This design works sideways and not top
Shell stitch - 5 DC into the same stitch
down, this means your beginning CH
V-stitch - 1 DC, CH 1, 1 DC into the same
needs to be the measurement from
stitch.
above breasts to length of top before
Unfinished DC - YO, insert hook, pull up a
starting the scalloped lace edging (3.5
loop, 3 loops on the hook, YO, pull through 2
inches). You repeat until you get the
loops only.
measurement of your bust minus 8
3 DC cluster - 3 unfinished DC into the same
inches (for the corset back).
stitch, 4 loops on hook, YO, pull through all
The stitch pattern works with a multiple
loops.
of 6 + 1 and is a 4-row repeat.
Puff stitch - YO, insert hook into stitch, YO, pull
The scalloped lace edging works with a
up a loop x3, should have 7 loops on the
multiple of 24+1 and is 6 rows long that
hook, YO and go through 6 loops, YO over
measures 3.5 inches/9cm in length.
and go through the last 2 loops to finish the
24 is a large multiple, so I have provided
stitch.
a pattern gauge swatch and a sizing
Picot stitch - CH 2, SL ST into the top of the
guide (page 7) to help guide you with
stitch that sits below.
working out how many repeats you will
Large picot stitch - CH 3, SL ST into the top of
need.
the stitch that sits below.
The scalloped lace edging - The 6-row repeat
for the bottom of top.
Pattern Gauge
Create FSC of 19 (see step 1 if you do not know how to create a FSC).
Row 1: CH 1 (never counts as a stitch), turn work, 1 HDC into each stitch across (19 HDC).
Row 2: CH 1, turn work and place 1 HDC into the back loop only of the 1st stitch, repeat
placing 1 HDC through the back loop of each stitch across (19 HDC).
Row 3: CH 1, turn work, 1 SC into the 1st stitch, *SK 2, 1 shell stitch, SK 2, 1 SC* repeat **
across and place 1 SC into the last stitch (19 stitches).
Row 4: CH 3 (1st DC throughout), turn work, place 2 more DC into the 1st stitch (3 DC), *SK 2, 1
SC, SK 2, 1 shell stitch* repeat ** across the row and place 3 DC into the last stitch (19 stitches).
Repeat rows 1-4 again until you have 8 rows/2 repeats.
8 rows/2 repeats of the patter
= 3.5 inches/9cm in length
(without blocking).
19 stitches across in the rows
= 4 inches/10cm in width
(without blocking).
Pattern Gauge
CH 25 (24+1), 1 repeat of the lace scalloped edging pattern is 24 stitches across.
Repeat steps 8-13 for swatch.
This step is optional , however it may help guide you with how many SC you will need
to place at the bottom of your top. You can measure the width of this swatch and
compare it the length of your top panel (bust measurement -8 inches).
25 stitches across/1 repeat of the lace pattern = 6.5
inches/16.5cm in width (this is without blocking)
6 rows of the pattern = 3.5 inches/9cm in length (without
blocking).
Tips and tricks for changing your gauge:
Keep in mind that the gauge is not essential as the design is made to measure. However if you do
not match gauge, the yarn amount may differ.
If you find your swatch pattern is larger, then reduce your hook size.
If your find your swatch pattern is smaller, then increase your hook size.
Make sure your yarn weight is the same as mine.
When measuring your gauge, make sure you do not stretch the yarn.
Step 1:
Setup round
Create a FSC that is a multiple of 6 +1 and fits your measurements from above your breasts to
where you would like the top to sit on your waist minus the 3.5 inches (the scalloped lace
edging).
For the sample size, I created a FSC of 37 (multiple of 6+1) for my desired measurement from
above breasts to upper waist.
See below if you do not know how to create a FSC:
CH 2, insert your hook in the 2nd CH from hook, pull up a loop, YO, draw through 1 loop (this will
be the CH). YO, draw through 2 loops left on the hook (this is the SC). *insert your hook under the
2 loops of the CH stitch you created on the last stitch and pull up a loop, YO, draw through 1 loop
(2nd CH), YO over and draw through the last 2 loops on the hook (this is your 2nd SC), repeat **
until the number of FSC you need.
Step 2:
1st row of repeat
Wrong side facing up
CH 1 (never counts as a stitch) and turn
your work, place 1 HDC into each stitch
across (37 HDC).
Step 3:
2nd row of repeat
Right side facing up
CH 1, turn your work and place 1 HDC
into the back loop only of the 1st stitch.
Repeat placing 1 HDC into each back
loop stitch across (37 HDC).
Step 4:
3rd row of repeat
Wrong side facing up
CH 1, turn your work and place 1 SC into the
1st stitch. *SK 2, shell stitch, SK 2, 1 SC*
repeat ** across and place 1 SC into last
stitch (37 stitches).
Step 5:
4th row of repeat
Right way facing up
CH 3 (always counts as 1st DC) and turn you
work, place 2 DC into the 1st stitch (3 DC),
*SK 2, 1 SC, SK 2, shell stitch* repeat across,
and place 3 DC into the last stitch (37
stitches).
Step 6:
Repeating
Repeat steps 2-5 until desired length of your bust measurement minus 8 inches and finish your
last row on row 2 of the repeat (step 3) and do not cut off your yarn.
Tip: the stitch pattern has some stretch to it, so make sure to check for size as you go.
For the sample size, I created 46 rows of the repeat, ending on row 2 (step 3). This met 21 inches
in length and 23 inches once stretched and my bust measurement is 31 inches.
Step 7:
Setup row for scalloped lace edging
Right side facing up
CH 1 and turn your work so you are now facing the long side of your top panel (bottom of
your top and right side facing up). Place 1 SC into the 1st available space and repeat placing
1 SC across the bottom into each available space, you need to make sure that you place a
multiple of 24 +1 SC for the lace repeat to work.
24 is a large multiple, so I have added a guide on how many SC you should add for
different bust sizes.
(28-32 inch bust) = 73 SC
(33-37 bust) = 97 SC
(38-44 bust) = 121 SC
(45 -50 bust) = 145 SC
(51-55 bust) = 169 SC
(56 -60 bust) = 193 SC
Please note this is just a guide of the SC amount you should aim for, or you can create the
gauge swatch (page 4) for the 1 repeat (24 +1 stitches) and work out how many SC you
would need from that measurement.
You may notice that you need to add a couple extra SC or even create a couple of SC
decreases to reach this amount.
Adding extra SC = placing 2 SC into 1 stitch instead of 1.
Removing SC (SC decrease) = Insert hook into the 1st stitch, YO, pull up a loop, insert
hook into the 2nd stitch, YO, pull up a loop, 3 loops on hook, YO and pull through all
loops, this making 2 stitches into 1.
For the sample size, I created 73 SC across and I placed a couple of SC decreases to reach this
amount.
Step 8:
1st row of repeat
Wrong side facing up
CH 4 (1st DC + CH 1), and turn your work, place a puff stitch into the 1st stitch. *SK 1, 1 SC, CH
5, SK 3, 1 SC, CH 5, SK 3, 1 SC, SK 1, and into the next stitch, place 1 puff stitch, CH 3, 1 puff
stitch* repeat ** across the row. At the end of the row, place 1 puff stitch, CH 1 and 1 DC into
the last stitch.
Step 9:
2nd row of repeat
Right side facing up
CH 1(never counts as stitch) and turn your work, 1 SC into the 1st stitch, CH 5, 1 SC into the CH
5 space, CH 5, 1 SC into the next CH 5 space. *CH 1, 6 DC into the CH 3 space, CH 1, 1 SC into
the next CH 5 space, CH 5, 1 SC into the next CH 5 space, CH 5, 1 SC into the CH 3 space, CH 5,
1 SC into the next CH 5 space, CH 5, 1 SC into the next CH 5 space* repeat ** across the row.
At the end, CH 5 and place 1 SC into the last stitch (3rd CH up on the CH 4).
Step 10:
3rd row of repeat
Wrong side facing up
CH 4 (1st DC + CH 1) and turn your work, 1 puff stitch into the 1st stitch, 1 SC into the CH 5
space, CH 5, 1 SC into the next CH 5 space, *CH 2, [1 DC, CH 2] x6, 1 SC into the CH 5 space,
CH 5, 1 SC into the next CH 5 space, place 1 puff stitch, CH 3, 1 puff stitch into the top of the
SC, 1 SC into the next CH 5 space, CH 5, 1 SC into the next CH 5 space* repeat ** across the
row. At the end of the row, place 1 DC, CH 1 and 1 puff stitch into the last stitch.
Step 11:
4th row of repeat
Right side facing up
CH 1, turn your work, 1 SC into the 1st stitch, CH 5, 1 SC into the CH 5 space, *CH 1, [1 v-stitch,
CH 1]x6, 1 SC into the CH 5 space, CH 5, 1 SC into the CH 3 space, CH 5, 1 SC into the CH 5
space* repeat ** across the row. At the end, CH 5 and place 1 SC into the last stitch (3rd CH up
on the CH 4).
Step 12:
5th row of repeat
Wrong side facing up
CH 4 (1st DC + CH 4), turn your work, 1 puff stitch into the 1st stitch, 1 SC into the CH 5 space,
*CH 3, [1 DC cluster into the CH 1 (between v-stitch), CH 3]x 6, 1 SC into the CH 5 space, place
1 puff stitch, CH 3, 1 puff stitch into the CH 3 space, 1 SC into the Ch 5 space* repeat ** across
the row. At the end, place 1 puff stitch, CH 1, 1 DC into the last stitch.
Step 13:
6th row of repeat
Right way facing out
CH 1, turn your work, 1 SC into the 1st stitch, *3 DC into the 1st CH 3 space, [3 DC, 1 picot
stitch, 2 DC] x 2 (next 2 CH 3 spaces), SK to next CH 3 space and place 2 DC, 1 picot stitch, 1
DC, 1 large picot stitch, 1 DC, 1 picot stitch, 1 DC. SK to the next CH 3 space and repeat [] x 2
(next 2 CH 3 spaces), SK to the next CH 3 space and place 3 DC, SK to the next CH 3 space
(between puff stitches) and place 1 SC* repeat ** across the row. At the end of the row, place 1
SC into the last stitch (3rd CH up on CH 4) and cut and tie off your yarn.
Step 14:
Setup for straps
Try the top panel on and mark with
a stitch marker on each side of the
panel where you would like your
front straps to start on the front of
your top.
For the sample size, I placed my
stitch markers 14 rows in on each
side of the top.
Step 15:
Straps
Join your yarn into the stitch marker on the left (right side of top facing up) and create a CH that
is long enough to fit over your shoulders and join to the top of the last stitch on the end of the
left side of the panel (see pictures below). SL ST your CH to join and SL ST into the stitch that
sits to the left, CH 1, turn your work so the CH you created is now facing you and place 1 SC into
each CH across until you meet the stitch marker. Once you meet the stitch marker, place a SL
ST into that stitch to join the strap and cut and tie of your yarn.
Do the same to the other strap until you have 2 identical.
For the sample size, I created a CH of 48 for each strap.
Step 16:
Setup for shell edging
Mark the top/middle of your straps with a stitch marker (see picture below).
For the sample size, I marked mine 24 stitches up.
Step 17:
Shell edging
When working your stitches into the side of the scalloped lace edging and the front section of
the top (between front straps), you will be placing your stitches into the sides of the previous
stitches rather than on top. You need to place stitches into any available spaces you find, a
good rule is to place 2 SC into each side HDC and DC and 1 SC into each side SC.
Join your yarn (right side facing up) to the bottom left corner of your top (side of the
scalloped lace stitch). CH 1 and place 1 SC into the 1st stitch,
[*SK 2 and place 3 DC, CH 1, 3 DC into the next stitch, SK 2, 1 SC*] repeat [**] this pattern
into each stitch across the side of your top until you meet the stitch marker. Once you meet
the stitch marker, place 1 SC into that stitch. *SK 2, shell stitch, SK 2, 1 SC* repeat ** across
for the rest of the strap, across the front of the top, and up the other strap until the other stitch
marker. Once you reach the other stitch marker, place 1 SC into that stitch and repeat [**]
until the end of the other side of the top, place 1 SC into the last stitch and cut and tie off your
yarn (see all pictures below and on the next page).
Step 18:
Back strap
Create a CH that is long enough to go in
and out of every 2nd shell stitch on each
side of the back of your top. Once
completed, starting from the middle of
your straps (where the stitch markers
were placed), thread that CH in and out
of the CH 1 spaces (between the shells),
making sure to place the CH into the last
CH 1 spaces of the last shells on each
side of your top and tie into a bow (see
all pictures).
Sew in all your ends and this has
finished your new top.
Thank you!
Thank you so much for choosing my pattern and supporting my brand. I hope you have
enjoyed this pattern and if you would like to see more of my patterns, follow my Instagram page
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If you had any issues with this pattern, please do not hesitate to contact me via email or social
media.
Please remember to tag me in your social media posts as I love seeing your interpretations of
my design!
Thank you!
Instagram: crochetwithalannamiall
Website: www.hippydaze.com
Email: [email protected]
