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THE ARTIFICIAL
BODY IN FASHION
AND ART
i
The mixture and range of cultural forces at play in this scintillating manuscript takes us on
a cultural magical mystery tour that is as exciting as it is surprising, as provocative as it is
erudite, as original as it is imaginative, and as thrilling as it is perverse.
Joy Sperling, Denison University, USA
A profoundly innovative study that presents surprising and far-reaching insights into the
complex intersections between the phenomenology of dolls, masquerade and marionettes
and post-modern subjectivities.
Mary Gluck, Brown University, USA
Using several social science disciplines, Geczy undertakes a valuable overview of the
changing significance of the doll in previous centuries and today. His analysis reveals
important changes that are taking place in women’s conceptions of the female body.
Diana Crane-Herve, University of Pennsylvania, USA
This book is a completely fascinating read that takes you far beneath the surface of
appearances by stripping bare a myriad of meanings of dolls in our lives, from baby to
adult. It makes you think, and re-think, by drawing on diverse histories of theatre, art,
fashion, aesthetics, technology, religion, philosophy and psychoanalysis, literature, film,
gender and cultural theory. Geczy brilliantly guides the reader in this rich account that
cannot be pigeon-holed by discipline—it is a must read for all interested in the relationship
between our minds, bodies and soul.
Alexandra Palmer, Royal Ontario Museum, Canada
Painting a broad canvas Geczy provides a rich and detailed landscape that links ideas
stretching from Jane Munro’s Silent Partners: Artist and Mannequin from Function to
Fetish—a cultural history that traces centuries of evolution of the artist’s mannequin within
the context of an expanding universe of effigies, avatars, dolls, and shop window
dummies—to Yuval Harari’s Sapiens: A Brief History of Humankind, which provides an
evolutionary history of our species towards an unfolding future that witnesses the fusion
between natural bodies and cyber limbs in a scientific odyssey involving non-organic-life
engineering. Geczy adds an important piece in the jigsaw of the scholarship on dolls and
masks, that examined the boundaries of the animate and inanimate in dolls and
representations.
Efrat Tseelon, author of Masquerade & Identities (2001), University of Leeds, UK
ii
THE ARTIFICIAL
BODY IN FASHION
AND ART
MARIONETTES, MODELS, AND
MANNEQUINS
ADAM GECZY
Bloomsbury Academic
An imprint of Bloomsbury Publishing Plc
LON DON • OX F O R D • N E W YO R K • N E W D E L H I • SY DN EY
iii
Bloomsbury Academic
An imprint of Bloomsbury Publishing Plc
www.bloomsbury.com
BLOOMSBURY and the Diana logo are trademarks of Bloomsbury Publishing Plc
Adam Geczy has asserted his right under the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act, 1988,
to be identified as Author of this work.
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or
by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information
storage or retrieval system, without prior permission in writing from the publishers.
No responsibility for loss caused to any individual or organization acting on or refraining from
action as a result of the material in this publication can be accepted by Bloomsbury or
the author.
ISBN : HB : 978-1-4725-9596-6
PB : 978-1-4725-9595-9
ePDF : 978-1-4725-9597-3
ePub: 978-1-4725-9598-0
iv
To my sons Julian (Scaramouche) and Marcel (Harlequin)
v
vi
TABLE OF CONTENTS
List of Illustrations xi
Acknowledgements xv
Introduction 1
Early automata 32
Pygmalion and Pygmalionism 34
Vaucanson 36
The art of automata 41
The chess-playing Turk 44
The end of a fantasy, the beginning of a contrivance 47
vii
viii CONTENTS
The vulnerability of fake flesh: The hyperrealist dolls of Jinks, Mueck and
Piccinini 79
Notes 151
Bibliography 173
Index 185
Figure 0.1 Patricia Piccinini. Doubting Thomas, 2008. Silicone, fiberglass, human hair, clothing,
chair. 90 cm high x 100 cm x 53 cm. Courtesy of the artist
ix
x
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
Figures
0.1 Patricia Piccinini. Doubting Thomas, 2008. Silicone, fiberglass, human
hair, clothing, chair. 90 cm high x 100 cm x 53 cm. Courtesy of the artist ix
1.1 Jacques Callot, Scapino and Zerbino, masks from the commedia
dell’arte (early 1600s) engraving. Image: National Gallery of Art 17
1.2 Actor from the Atellan farce, sculpture, Italy, tenth century. London,
British Museum. Photo by DeAgostini/Getty Images 21
1.3 Giuseppe Maria Mitelli, Harlequin, 1678, engraving. Photo by
DeAgostini/Getty Images 23
1.4 Maurice Sand, Polichinelle in 1820. Engraving from the ommedia dell’arte
study entitled Masques et buffons, comédie italienne, Paris 1860. Venice,
Casa di Carlo Goldini. Photo by DeAgostini/Getty Images 25
2.1 Heron performs an experiment with an aeolipile before the students of
the School of Alexandria. Anonymous engraving, nineteenth century.
Photo by Universal History Archive/UIG via Getty Images 33
2.2 Jean-Léon Gérôme, Pygmalion and Galatea, 1890, oil on canvas,
88.9 cm x 68.6 cm. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York 35
2.3 Three automatons (harpsichord player, violinist, cellist) performing a
mechanical concert in the Blibliothèque du Roi, 1769. Anonymous
engraving. Blibliothèque des arts Decoratifs. Photo by DeAgostini/Getty
Images 38
2.4 The Automaton Chess Player as shown in New York in 1845. Illustrated
London News. Photo by Hulton Archive/Getty Images 44
2.5 The wax heads of Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette in Madame Tussaud’s,
London. Koralle 28/1937, World Wide Photos. Photo by ullstein
bild/ullstein bild via Getty Images 48
3.1 Dancers perform on stage as the English National Ballet rehearse
Coppelia at the Coliseum on July 22, 2014, in London. Photo by Ian
Gavan/Getty Images 58
xi
xii LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
Plates
1 Claude Gillot, Tombeaux de Maitre André, scene from Commedia dell’arte,
eighteenth century. Paris, Musée Du Louvre. Photo by DeAgostini/Getty
Images
2 Claude Gillot, Sedan Chair, scene from Commedia dell’arte, eighteenth
century. Paris, Musée Du Louvre. Photo by DeAgostini/Getty Images
3 Antoine Watteau, Gilles—Pierrot, 1718–1719. Photo by Art Media/Print
Collector/Getty Images
4 Paul Cézanne, Mardi Gras, 1888. Oil on cavas. Photo by Universal
History Archive/Getty Images
xiv LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
This book owes itself to many people who have given advice, have introduced me to
examples of which I was ignorant or provided conditions for research. Thanks to Jennifer
Hayes and Domenica Lowe from the library at Sydney College of the Arts, the University
of Sydney, who have helped in providing obscure sources from distant lands.
The Institut Internationale des Marionnettes in Charleville-Mézières gave me two weeks
of hospitality that were invaluable for research and writing. Ulrika Celik for her beguiling
grace and continued, loving fascination in the project and reading my drafts. Also
Marquard Smith and Kenneth Gross for their generous time and expert counsel. Jonathan
McBurnie, my mentor in all things Batmanian and mutant. Victoria Hodgkinson, my
informal librarian, and to Katherine and Daryl Hogkinson, who have always loomed large
in the world of cosmetic plasticity. And as always, my trusted friend and colleague, Vicki
Karaminas.
xv
xvi
INTRODUCTION
It is not difficult to credit that statues may have appeared to ooze with sweat,
shed tears, or exude something which resembles drops of blood, since wood
and stone often gather a mould which produces moisture, and not only display
various colours themselves, but take on other tints from the atmosphere, and
there is nothing to prevent us from believing that heaven sometimes employs
such portents to foreshadow the future. It is also possible that statues may give
out a sound which resembles a groan or a sigh, which is caused by a fracture
or splitting of the particles of which they may be composed, and produces a
louder noise if it takes place inside. But the notion that articulate speech, so
clear and abundant and precise, could proceed from a lifeless object goes
beyond the bounds of possibility, since neither the human soul, nor even a god,
has ever spoken or conversed without possessing a body which is organically
constructed and fitted with the various vocal members.
—PLUTARCH1
Let us recall Hegel’s famous reply when one of his students criticized him
because an empirical detail did not fit with his theory: “too bad for nature.”
—SLAVOJ ZIZEK2
There has arguably been no time in history when words such as natural and pure are used
in such profusion: on products and advertisements from food to clothing to lifestyle.
Psychoanalysis has taught us that an effusive expression of something usually emanates
from an anxious need to compensate for what is actually lacking. The paradox of our
contemporary moment is that, in the age of the rife rhetoric of naturalness, we as human
beings have never been so unnatural. Clearly, this requires more definition, but for now it
is worth pausing to reflect on the extent to which our bodies are artificially modulated by
our environments, and the extent and availability of the possibilities to do so. This may be
from the fluoride in our water, which unbeknown to most, has exponentially reduced the
incidence of tooth decay, to the likelihood that someone we know born in the last twenty
years has been the product of intravenous fertilization, thus in a different category of ontic
possibility from someone who came into the world under “natural” circumstances. Add to
1
2 THE ARTIFICIAL BODY IN FASHION AND ART
this the amount of people who now find it acceptable to improve their bodies cosmetically,
whether that be through dental whitening or breast implants. But the truth of these is that
neither blindingly white teeth nor melon-like breasts are natural, yet their desirability and
their increasing normativity has rendered them so, much as a bodybuilder—whose
Hellenic build is made possible by chemical supplements—with so little body fat can
barely walk before a tournament, is called “fit.” The age of the technologized body that
grew out of the 1980s has rendered the distinction between prophylactic or restorative
bodily mediation, on one hand, and voluntary and arbitrary bodily mediation, on the other,
harder than ever to define. The contention of this book is that we are in a radically new
period in our consciousness of body, other and self. Put simply, in the humanist age,
Pinocchio wanted to become human; in the so-called post-humanist age, humans
aspire to become Pinocchio. In so doing, we attempt to internalize an imaginary other.
There was once just the doll, now we wish to become that doll. In charting this qualitative
transition of self, this book begins with the doll and the puppet’s role within the social
imagination, and the way in which the doll, the projected, artificial self, has become
incorporated, folded back onto the natural body that defined it, so as to consign the
difference between natural and artificial to an historical narrative, to the past.
Puppets, dolls and marionettes are as old as the very earliest civilizations, with evidence
of dolls in the ancient Egyptians, Minoans, Etruscans as well as the Chinese. There is
plenty of reason to argue that they are caught up with the formation of civilization itself.
For although a puppet, for example, is a constructed, stylized and artificial being, it has,
since early antiquity, functioned as a powerful vehicle for conveying messages that
would be too difficult, risky or explicit if handled by real bodies, much as a fairytale holds
perennial truths beneath the fantastic and rationally implausible. This means that dolls and
puppets—fake, substitute bodies—played a role in helping to reflect on the fluid ordering
principles of social relations from politics to gender.3 Evidence of dolls since antiquity
reveals that they were prevailingly present in the formation of the individual, as an imaginary
other that then assisted in the formation of one’s own psychic imaginary leading to the
safe phantasy of the unified self. The often ritualistic contrivances of the doll has therefore
been important to personal adjustment, and as a modulator to individuals as social
groups. Put simply, dolls, puppets and marionettes are the visible presence of fantasy to
ensure that we are protected from the horror of the fantasies of self and social identity. In
the sympathetic phrase of a German anthropologist, the doll is the treueste Spiegelgefärtin,
the “faithful mirroring companion.”4
Because of this, dolls and body-aliases are also widely used as tools for early stages
of learning, and for adult counseling.5 Moreover, masks are an accepted tool for therapy,
given that it acts a shield and is a spur to acting out fantasies, fears, traumas.6 Punch and
Judy shows and their ilk are not only tools for children’s amusement, but also effective for
communicating with children, their mischievous nature providing vivid warnings about
possible dangers like crossing the road or bumping into undesirable strangers.7 The
ersatz body—either external the body or assumed—allows the spectator to cathect, or
graft, her (as it was predominately in antiquity) anxieties and premonitions with far less fear
of recrimination, diminishing the sense of inhibition. As Kenneth Gross, in his study of our
relation to statues, explains, “statues, public and external as they are, have the character
INTRODUCTION 3
of those highly cathected psychic images or ‘internal objects’ that people the space of
mind. We are not just buried in our statues, our statues are buried in us.”8 Such an
observation has forceful ramifications for the way we relate to inanimate anthropomorphs
such that the lines between art, psychology and life are all but annulled since the puppet
and doll are essential to the phantasy of self. In practical psychology, for instance, there
is a sizeable amount written about the usefulness of “anatomically correct” dolls, that is,
dolls with genitalia, in assessing cases of child abuse.9 On the other hand, the contemporary
RealDoll, expensive and lifelike dolls used as sex toys, allow for a level of violent
engagement, deplorable in itself, but criminal on a real body. There are also numerous
cases of men who claim to have relationships with their dolls. Pathos or perversion, the
healthiness of this is up for speculation.10
But it would be a mistake to leave the analysis there as the doll may not only be
considered as external to the body. Well before the new contemporary conceptions of
body and self, the puppet is not only a prevalent metaphor for a certain type of person
who is easily manipulated, but also for both theater and religion. In religion, there is
the universal notion of God, or a god, being the sublime puppet master—satirized in the
figure of the Wizard of Oz—who pulls the strings of fate. Zeus, the Greek king of the gods,
is also supposed to have played with clay figurines. The game of chess is also a similar
activity in which two opposing forces manipulate the ciphers pertaining to statecraft.
Beyond these schematic applications, the notion of the puppet helped to establish
humans within an environment of law and method that was outside of their control, and
within which humans were only agents acting according to a preordained order, and in
accordance with the limited resources of movement assigned them. On the other pole of
power, Thomas Hobbes also described his Leviathan as a massive automaton.
After Descartes, the role of the self and the other becomes an issue in earnest. With
Descartes, the subject shifts from thinking to a being that thinks, from cogitans to res
cogitans, thereby creating a breach in being and thinking while sealing it in the same
gesture. Or as Slavoj Zizek puts it, Descartes “patches up the wound he cut into the
texture of reality.” He continues:
Only Kant fully articulates the inherent paradoxes of self-consciousness. What Kant’s
“transcendental turn” renders manifest is the impossibility of locating the subject in the
“great chain of being”, into the Whole of the universe—all those notions of the universe
as a harmonious Whole in which every element has its own place (today, they abound
in the ecological ideology). In contrast to it, subject is in the most radical sense “out of
joint”; it constitutively lacks its own place, which is why Lacan designates it by the
matheme S, the “barred” S.11
It is first worth taking note of Zizek’s aside with regard to ecology here, which has to be
seen as part of the same campaign for technological humankind’s highly encoded return
to nature. For the rest, Zizek elaborates on the Lacanian thesis that the constitution of
the self as bounded subject only occurs by dint of a fundamental unboundedness, or
incompleteness. Hence “The Paradox of self-consciousness is that it is possible only
against the background of its own impossibility: I am conscious of myself only insofar as
4 THE ARTIFICIAL BODY IN FASHION AND ART
I am out of reach to myself qua the real kernel of my being.”12 Our relationship with artificial
selves is therefore fundamental to the very make-up of our being, since it is not only
persistence and presence of the other, but the artificial other, which allows us not
to confront that we, human subjects, are intricate fabrications. To put this into more
technical psychoanalytic parlance, the doll, the body-other, plays the role of Vorstellungs-
Repräsentanz, which is what stands in for what is missing (in ourselves). To use Zizek’s
words again, it is “the signifying representative of the missing representation.”13
What is more than curious, however—and the ironies of such historical symmetries
are writ large in this book—is that the theatrical phenomenon of the commedia dell’arte
enters just before the inception of the Cartesian subject. That is, the beginnings of what
Kierkegaard would later characterize as the ironic conception of self, the self that
constitutes itself through occupying multiple positions, and who is skeptical of notions of
unilateral, inviolable personal witness. This relationship is already pregnant in the formal
nature of theater itself. Since ancient times, theater has involved the conflict between
individual will and destiny, the effects of which may be expressed as comedy or as tragedy.
This fundamental friction asks the indelible question whether the subject is a complex and
cruel illusion who is really a cipher, shell, or puppet leveraged by something or someone
else. To what extent an actor is a puppet of the script, the plot and the direction, may
depend on the kind of theater, according to history or genre. While theater was always
open to improvisation, the improvisatory performance was dominated by puppet theater,
inevitably, since puppets were fabricated from the beginning to represent a role, type or
condition.
While it is established that dolls have had an enduring role in the child’s psychic
evolution, well before the invention of psychoanalysis, its relation, both material and
metaphoric, to the modern subject is quite particular. It is a relation that this book traces
in two phases, from humanism to posthumanism. Plato made occasional mention to
puppets in his Laws, such as descrying the unquestioningly obedient as “for the most part
puppets,”14 or indulging in the commonplace speculation that we are puppets of a higher
power.15 When Kant turns to subjective moral agency, he retains some of the regular
meaning in principle, but otherwise radically reorients it to deal with the nature of imperfect
knowledge, which nonetheless is bound to a higher moral order. If we somehow grasped
the immensity of things, if God and the eternal might in their awful majesty would stand
unceasingly before our eyes, we would be gripped with such fear that our actions would
exist not as moral decisions but as pure obeisance:
The moral worth of actions, on which alone the worth of the person and even the world
depends in the eyes of supreme wisdom, would not exist at all. The conduct of man,
so long as his nature remained as it is now, would be changed into mere mechanism,
where, as in a puppet show, everything would gesticulate well but no life would be
found in the figures.16
As Zizek argues in his reading of this passage, Kant identifies a radical predicament.
Namely, that in terms of “things-in-themselves” we are just a mechanism, while in the
world of occurrences and appearances (phenomena), we are part of a flow of larger
INTRODUCTION 5
causes and our immanence as developed mammals. Our freedom, which is our capacity
to judge, is caught somewhere between the realms, creating a kind of deadlock from
which we cannot escape.17
It is as if with the free modern subject the doll is not expelled—I am no longer a puppet
but a free modern agent—but rather enters through another door. It represents the very
limits of freedom once and as a result of that freedom being granted. This is yet another
way of considering the existential disturbance of modern alienation—but it is also very
useful to help in reflecting on the new phase of the cyborg and the artificial body in the
posthuman age and the now age of the anthropocene. Here, the identification with doll is
no longer external, it is either imbricated or wholly embraced, where the horror of the
indeterminacy of agency is in transforming into the determinate object of the doll. This can
be rendered as self-transformation, or through serious congress—affective, intellectual,
sexual—with a nonbiological “being.” To admit of such a possibility can be read as the
technological end result of Romanticism’s valorization of suicide as the ultimate statement
of personal will (I had no choice in my birth, but I have in my death), except that we live
on—through transformation, modification or identification— as something else, as various
members of the technological undead. Why the extraordinary spate of vampire books,
movies and televisions series in the last decade or so? The zombie genre has flourished
also. In line with such speculative symmetries, it is worth noticing that Kant’s time
witnessed a profusion of automata of a sophistication hitherto unseen. The passion for
automata, which in many circles bordered on mania, was caught up with “philosophical
toys” and the rationalist view put in train by Descartes that humans were machines with a
soul.18
It is thus in the formation of the self-positing and free subject that the doll assumes
a level of importance, manifesting in droves in all artistic genres. In modern drama, for
instance, the idea of the “living doll” was a popular one, especially in cabaret. But in
conventional theater, the so-called formalist model, in which the living actor subordinates
him- or herself to the words of the absent poet is a contested one, since it reduces diction
to oratory and leaves gesture to a minimum. True enough, in Shakespeare’s time, for
example, the manner of acting was less spontaneous and “humanist” than what we find
in great modernists from Chekhov to Ibsen, but when it came to the main actors in the
drama, a certain human pathos was inevitable. Shakespearean drama demands for wide
emotional range that wooden acting formalism cannot sustain.19
For this reason, modernist drama struck up a relationship with puppets and dolls that
explores the limits of human will and consciousness, and to dwell on human agency,
social stratification and what it began to see as the fictions of human irreducibility. This
growing skepticism comes to an important head with the work of the Belgian Maurice
Maeterlinck. Best remembered for his play Pelléas et Mélisande (1893), which inspired
Debussy’s famous opera, Maeterlinck also wrote some highly influential marionette plays,
which as the name dictates, were disposed toward artificial bodies, it is critically agreed
that they were more intended for living actors.20 This was because Maeterlinck needed to
find an alternative form of dramatic expression that delivered something more than the
temporal and immediate activities of humanity, dispensed with naturalism and in its place
was able to disclose the more profound spiritual core. Instead of lucid, speech took on an
6 THE ARTIFICIAL BODY IN FASHION AND ART
incantatory quality, and bodily movements could appear uncomfortable and contrived. As
Harold Segel explains, “the plays embody a metaphysical viewpoint for which Maeterlinck
devised what he regarded as an appropriate dramatic style.”21 To him, the fragile body
was only to be a vehicle for something more essential. Well before the Brecht and Beckett,
Maeterlinck disturbed the imaginary screen between actor and spectator with mechanical
and highly contrived form of theatrical mise en scène that was steeped in a deathly
atmosphere.
Much of this willful reduction of humans into mechanical objects can be traced back to
the still remarkable and much commented on philosophical narrative by Heinrich von
Kleist, “Über das Marionettentheater” (“On Marionette Theater”).22 Not that this is the first
text that seeks to confront human nature with his uncanny counterfeit counterpart, but it is
certainly one of the most intriguing texts of the time. Influenced by Schiller, who distinguished
between the naïve and the sentimental, and by Goethe, whose Wilhelm Meister had a
special fondness for puppet theater, Kleist weaves together a series of observations that
are as baffling as they are original. Kleist’s narrator runs across a mysterious “Herr C.,” who
proceeds to expound a theory that the movements of marionettes have a superior grace
to that of humans because they lack self-consciousness and are indisposed to hesitation.
Kleist thereby evinces a distrust of human consciousness, and the essay is widely
interpreted as a romantic defense of unconscious processes. While marionettes, required
a puppet master, they were nevertheless regulated by the basic laws of gravity which the
human body perforce defies. Yet, this is precisely what we look for in most of our dancers.23
The deeper allegorical thrust of Kleist’s narrative is directed to humanity’s wrong turn, the
Fall. For it is the Fall that has cleaved humanity from being in harmony with the world.
Kleist’s Herr C. relates a story of a handsome young friend of his who lapsed from
spontaneous grace to vanity after he saw his reflection and became self-conscious of his
beauty. It is this change that is emblematic of the Fall, and which characterizes the difference
between humans and their mechanical counterparts. What Kleist’s heavily cited texts helps
to expose is the very fragility in humanity’s conception of its worth and its capacities, and
that the artificial alibi may be more than an alibi but a rival.
With artificial bodies, connection between innocence and terror is central. The
animated doll brings with it the ancient desire of animism, whose most enduring myth is
told in the story of Pygmalion, who brings life to his own statue.24 But the doll is also the
harbinger of death, the lifeless double that is the uncanny reminder that we will all end up
dead. More specifically when it comes to the modern evolution, or passage, in humanity’s
relationship to artificial bodies, the eighteenth century gives us everything from which to
draw. There are two main factors to consider. One is the automaton as a thing of technical
advancement and the challenge to emulate humans on a biological and intellectual
level. The automatons powered according to barrel mechanisms and clockwork are only
to be seen as early forms of the contemporary robot and artificial intelligence (AI ) and now
the desire to research the possibility of affective intelligence. The other takes issue of
affective intelligence and contends that it is an undesirable accessory, and that modern
subjecthood his more of a burden than an advantage. But the renunciation of one’s
subjectivity is tantamount to death, and the need to renounce can be seen as tragic, as
the terrible failure of the humans to come to peace with themselves. Artificial bodies are
INTRODUCTION 7
associated with joy and possibility (beauty and play) while at the same time pointing to an
interminable abyss.
Despite being the era that shaped the modern code of nature and the natural, the
eighteenth century was also a period that celebrated elaborate and studied forms of fêtes
and masquerade that well surpassed those that originated out of the Renaissance. From
Marie Antoinette’s follies in Versailles, to those in Nymphenberg in Munich, the highest
echelons of society would dress up as shepherds and shepherdesses, or as figures from
classical antiquity. These serve as examples of the developments from the commedia and
of the courtly masque in so far as it finds people self-consciously acting out pre-established
stereotypical parts in a manner of being that, while less stylized than masquerade, is all
the more perverse in the sense of playing out a world that is as yet impossible. In
anticipation of the conclusion of this book, this impossibility is made possible with the
inception of the technologized body from the 1980s onward.
In the swelling world of diversions and entertainment, in addition to puppets and
automata, another significant invention was the waxwork. Rationalism and humanism
created acute scrutiny as to what it meant to be human, which created a healthy audience
for the first waxworks exhibitions staged in Paris by Philippe Curtius, who became the
teacher and mentor of Anne Maria Gosholtz, later Tussaud. As her biographer, Kate
Berridge notes, “Just as Curtius modeled the celebrities of the day in wax, for a time a
couple of enterprising impresarios enjoyed the success on the back of their famous look-
alike marionettes.”25 Tussaud marginally escaped the Revolution and was subsequently
employed to make death masks, which included the king and queen, as well as
Robespierre and Marat. In literature, the waxwork sideshow attraction finds its vivid
testament in Mr Jarley in Dickens’s Old Curiosity Shop. To the delight and astonishment
of his audience, he alters the likenesses of famous personages into writers or other people
familiar to them. But it is still the eerie oddity of the waxworks that haunts the main
character, Nell, as they draw to mind the “perpetual nightmare” of Quilp,26 the grotesque
and avaricious dwarf. They were never truly benign. She slept among them, with their
“great glassy eyes”
and, as they stood one behind another all about her bed, they looked like living
creatures, and yet so unlike in their grim stillness and silence, that she had a kind of
terror of them for their own sakes, and would often lie watching their dusky figures until
she was obliged to rise and light a candle, or go and sit at the open window and feel
companionship in the bright stars.27
The ghoulishness of the approximation of life is the waxwork’s most lasting accomplishment.
But it is also its thick reek of death that also makes the waxwork so sympathetic to
celebrity. As if embalming one’s popularity, arresting what is uncontrollably transient, it is
a mark of fame to have one’s double made and displayed, especially in the flagship
Tussaud’s in London. In any such museum, fans can be photographed standing next to
the latest newly fashioned celebrity doppelganger.
The greatest lure of the waxwork museum has always been in the darker potential of
the uncanny double, not just in the death mask, but in the replicated figures of criminals
8 THE ARTIFICIAL BODY IN FASHION AND ART
in history. How many of us who have visited a wax museum and have stared into the wax
faces modeled on convicted killers, or of those who met a horrific end, with protracted
fascination, despite knowing that it is all inert matter? Harnessing the figure of the doll to
explore the sinister and the macabre was part of the Romantic era’s preoccupations with
what overreached human limits. The results penetrated into the uncanny and the horrible.
The consequences of Dr. Frankenstein’s Promethean dream are well inscribed in the
popular consciousness, but perhaps less well remembered with the exception of German
speakers is E.T.A. Hoffmann’s novella The Sandman, where the fascination with robotics
is brought together with the darkest of children’s tales in which the protagonist, Nathaniel,
falls in love with Olimpia, who turns out to be an automaton, which drives him insane. This
story, to which we will return later, can be read in a number of ways, including the way the
loved one is a projection of the lover’s desires, and more recently, the way in which people
follow models of physical perfection that are simply not “naturally” human.
Hoffman’s tale is one dark and memorable example of a large amount of literature that
emerged out of the nineteenth century where dolls came to life and vice versa. Carlo
Collodi’s The Adventures of Pinocchio appeared in 1883, while Lewis Carroll’s Alice’s
Adventures in Wonderland appeared in 1865. Both of these enduring tales are enticing
because of the way they explore very basic human desires through the lens of a child,
using motifs deriving from dolls and other forms of child’s play. Carroll’s tale is an intricate
surface of all forms of mimetic play, where animals speak and where playing cards become
soldiers. Not only is it a graphic testimony to the way in which children breathe life into
inanimate objects, it also searchingly tells us that all is not as it seems, and reminds us of
the potential for the human mind to embroider and fabricate. The strange becomes
familiar so that Alice, the only “normal” being in the motley gatherings, is made to feel out
of place.
Appearing just before the birth of psychoanalysis with Jean-Martin Charcot, and
subsequently Freud (whose Studies in Hysteria was published in 1895), the latter half of
the nineteenth century brings conflicting states of mind to the fore, in which human mental
experience begins to be categorized and socially situated. It is instructive to note that the
word homosexual first appeared in 1886, coined by the German psychiatrist Richard
Freiherr von Krafft-Ebing. For some time previous to this, homosexuality had been referred
to as “inversion,” but it was only in the late nineteenth century, culminating poignantly in
the Wilde trial in 1895, that homosexuality is essentially created as social phenomenon.
The birth of homosexuality’s relevance to the subject of dolls lies in the way in which they
are both associated with the strange, and thus, the queer. This is in no way to make the
absurd argument that anyone who plays with dolls, marionettes or puppets is gay or
queer, rather more to insist that they are both examples of what stands outside the
general, imaginary and ideological framework of what counts as normal, and what exists
outside a chain of accountable causality. Whereas a normal, “straight” person assists in
the propagation of the species, the doll and the queer is unproductive, and therefore, a
threat to a rational social ecosystem.
This analogy will have growing importance at the end of this book with the conception
of the technologized body whose mediations are often outside the measures of utility and
which no longer comply with older conventions of suitability and normativity. In fact, the
INTRODUCTION 9
relationship between the artificiality and queerness is a compelling and highly subversive
one. Judith Halberstam and Ira Livingston draw attention to the way in which the gendered
body exists among a maelstrom of shifting co-ordinates in which the ideological,
technological and biological meet. Writing at the end of the millennium (1995), they rightly
describe the ways in which the body exists constantly as mediated both from inside and
from without, as representation. Sexuality becomes an increasingly mobile and fabricated
element with changing forces in which the borderline between passive and active is
progressively challenged.28
Dolls as they were used and appear since modern art have been fairly generously
examined, including the Surrealists’ obsession with them, for obvious reasons. Salient
among them, although central to the still rather loose Surrealist clique, Hans Bellmer gives
us some of the most lasting images of dolls, which he dismantled then reassembled to
become contorted shapes reflective suffering and ennui. Bellmer was himself influenced
by the other adaptation of Hoffmann’s Sandman in Offenbach’s Tales of Hoffmann as well
as dolls from the sixteenth century, which had rounded joints. Bellmer’s dolls are
rearticulated into disturbing yet visually eloquent morphological jumbles in which childhood
innocence is harrowingly violated. His first book of these figures had these dolls in tableau
vivant settings, grotesquely recasting a convention that grew out of the eighteenth century.
Bellmer was vocally opposed to the Nazi regime, and his dolls are read symptomatically
in terms of the atrocities after they came to power, and the cataclysms of the Holocaust
and World War II . But other pointers can be added to the list. For what is just as true, and
which has not yet been considered in the healthy amount of literature on Bellmer that has
grown out of recent years, is how through science and technology the body has been
exaggerated into untold proportions from overpumped bodybuilders to what trash lifestyle
magazines, blogs and websites refer to as “plastic surgery disasters.” In light of these,
Bellmer’s work can be read afresh as the way as the self made other, sometimes laughably,
other times unspeakably.
If we are to accept that Bellmer’s the strongest exponent of Bellmer’s legacy is Cindy
Sherman, then we fall back into the hands of the predicament—predicament because it
defies unity and facile explanation—of queer. For while Bellmer’s work might easily be
read as a misogynist, deeper exploration runs into more ambiguous, and sinister,
conclusions. Equally, Sherman’s feminism is far from reducible, nor is it coherent. With a
career that began in the late 1970s, Sherman’s work is witness, and in retrospect,
testimony to the watershed described in this book, from the body that observes the doll
to the body becoming the doll. And in a more subtle sense, her work addresses the more
vague division between the psychological roles that we all play and physical acts of
subjective reattribution and transformation. Leigh Bowery springs to mind, but there are
far more brutal and unnerving from the man who had surgery and facial implants to look
like a cat, to the Japanese man who spent a small fortune making himself look like
Michelangelo’s David.29 From the very beginning of her career, Sherman has always
dressed up. The female complement to Bellmer, Sherman treats herself as a doll-like
cipher, but in the grotesque doll-like configurations themselves. These figures can be
viewed as the Dorian Gray inner core of the contemporary age of forced and bodily
perfection that is less perfection and more caricature. In a more sinister way, they play
10 THE ARTIFICIAL BODY IN FASHION AND ART
out what is commonly burlesqued in popular media in features about “plastic surgery
disasters,” the trashy exposés on celebrities’ cosmetic excess gone awry.
Any investigation into the forays of stylized otherness will ultimately devolve to the
fashion model. Before the individual identity of the supermodel in the 1980s, models were
initially intended as living versions of mannequins—the French for model is mannequin.
It is precisely at the time of the supermodel, when the model is given a subjective face,
that the lines between artificial bodies, natural bodies and desirable bodies become more
uneven and obscure. By the 1980s, cosmetic surgery surged in popularity, while anabolic
steroids generated the new superbody immortalized by Schwarzenegger and Stallone in
action film.30 But it is in the present, new millennial era that the notion of aspiring and
fashioning one’s body to a media (as opposed to classical) ideal takes a new step in the
way in which people wish to turn themselves in Manga dolls or Barbie, or more bizarrely,
into animals. It is as if the dynamic has come full circle: from dolls imitating humans to
humans wanting to be dolls. The latter is the most perverse and curious aesthetic
celebration of the technologized body.
As suggested several times now, this bodily revolution is a manifestation of a much
deeper change in psychology and technology. The most ambitious claim of this book is
that we have reached a qualitative alteration in the way in which we think and treat our
bodies. This change is in isomorphic, or symmetrical with similar shifts that have occurred
in society and politics over the last twenty to thirty years, which include postmodernism
and the age of a crisis in revolution and of democracy—the new globalized word order of
the new millennium.31 In theorizing epistemic historical breaks, Paul Hazard is one good
example, demarcating the relatively short period of 1680–1715 as when the classical
period was brought to the end in what became a seismic wave of scientific and
philosophical questioning.32 At these watersheds, whose onto-genesis can only be
delineated retrospectively, there is almost always a paradoxical relation. In regard to the
body and self, the looming question is that at the very time, with technology and
globalization, when we have the opportunity to achieve the humanist project that, in the
words of Stefan Herbrechter, “this very humanity disappears into the posthuman, the
inhuman and the transhuman. And does this announce a disappearance, a return or
re-invention of the human?”33
In answer to this question, this book proposes that we can no longer see the doll as
external to ourselves, but as different in degree but not in kind. Most noticeably since the
1980s, developments in fields such as the biomedical sciences, including genetic
engineering, prosthetics, nutritional supplements, and cosmetic surgery, have caused us
to question what constitutes optimal bodily health and beauty. They also raise the bugbear
of what constitutes a natural body over one that is artificially mediated. Although there is
no precise answer for this, what is for certain is that the modern, and now postmodern
body, is the locus of competing agencies, from chemical to perceptual. What is certain is
that we live in a world that is presided over by archetypes of beauty and happiness that
reflect a certain form of physiological excellence. Both the star athlete and the fashion
model are highly mediated identities, their bodies, faces and all else besides created from
the rigors of training, dieting, and perhaps, cosmetic surgery. Whereas in antiquity, the
ideal body was maintained as a suggestive if mythic tie to the Greco-Roman concept of
INTRODUCTION 11
what nature stood for, in the modern and now postindustrial age, such equivalence is
unthinkable. Nature, as Adorno states, is an ideal that allows humans to think that there
is something outside of them that does not rely on them, is invariable and transparent—it
is therefore a myth and ideology of transcendence to which humans impossibly aspire,
but which to humans, as it were, impossibly belong.34
Prophetic of this shift is the 1984 film Blade Runner. Ridley Scott’s film is the subject of
a welter of critical reflections, and is an important marker in the ways in which humans
have confronted their humanity in relation to technology. The film also revives the venerable
question about whether humans are playthings, puppets, of an anonymous Maker. It is
useful to turn again to Zizek who has deliberated on this aspect of the Blade Runner in
detail:
The last impersonation of this figure [the “Thing which thinks”] occurs in the noir-
renewal of the eighties, in the guise of the new kind of father which characterizes
“postindustrial” corporate late capitalism, a father epitomized by Tyrell in Blade Runner,
a lone figure of the uncanny, ethereal, frail materiality, devoid of a sexual partner. This
father clearly materializes the Cartesian Evil Genius: a father who exerts domination
over me not at the level of my symbolic identity; but at the level of what I am qua “Thing
which thinks.”35
In reflecting on the void of origin, the replicant must contemplate his or her monstrosity.
Rachel starts to cry when Deckard reveals to her that her memories are all just constructs
inserted in her head to give her the illusion of humanity. Yet, as the patient viewer of this
film, it is more in the crying that allows her to “become” human, well beyond the problem
of accurate memory, since after all there is no such thing.
At about the same time as Scott’s film, Donna Haraway penned her polemic, the
“Cyborg Manifesto”36 in which she called for a new way of thinking the female in the
context of a re-ordered, technologized universe. Underpinning her thesis is the need to
find a structural alternative to the humanism represented with Descartes, and later, Kant.
Haraway is an important early marker in what is now an established field of inquiry. Against
human individualism and the preciousness of the irreducible human soul, in the words of
Elaine Graham, the cyborg chooses “to fashion an ironic, subversive exemplar to a non-
dualistic, post-gender, post-colonial, post-industrial world.”37 Further, “Haraway argues
that the cyborg’s hybrid status as both organism and cybernetic device, calls into question
the ontological purity according to which western society has defined what is normatively
human.”38 But the question that hangs over this alternative, or “third way,” is whether it is
a third way at all, or something that either “improves” on the human or acts as a primitive
form of repression.
From the humanist viewpoint, however, it is not hard to see that one of the tensions of
Blade Runner is that it has a foot in both the cyborg and humanist camp, since Rachel
clearly places value in what she perceives she is not. Yet at the most extreme, now some
thirty years after this film, the need to reflect, attain or maintain humanity—understood
here in its most commonsense post-Enlightenment sense—appears less and less exigent.
One only need take the unprecedented, and truly “posthuman” phenomenon of someone
12 THE ARTIFICIAL BODY IN FASHION AND ART
like Blondie Bennett, who not only has submitted to countless surgeries and other
cosmetic interventions, but also undergoes weekly hypnotherapy to make herself more
vague and stupid.39 This is one instance of the Nietzschian Übermensch returned to us as
a bad joke, not a bang but a whimper.
It is a case that certainly gives Freud’s gnomic statement that “Man has, as it were,
become a kind of prosthetic God,” a rather bathetic ring. But let us look at the rest of the
passage:
When he puts on all his auxiliary organs he is truly magnificent; but those organs have
not grown on to him and they still give him much trouble at times. . . . Future age will
bring with them new and possibly unimaginably great advances in this field of civilization
and will increase man’s likeness to God still more. But in the interests of our present
investigation, we will not forget that present-day man does not feel happy in his God-
like character.40
This has now changed. Not only is humanity comfortable, or “happy” with the new
improvements, but it is also no longer feasible to separate those “organs” that have
“grown on,” and those that have not.
Films and televisions series after Blade Runner bear witness to this. These seem to
have jettisoned the residue of romantic pathos and engage directly with the replicant, who
either takes precedence, or vies creditably with his or human counterpart. For example,
in The Machine (2013), the protagonist, a computer scientist played by Toby Stephens,
ends his days with the female artificial life form he had a hand in creating. No longer does
Frankenstein turn on his maker; technology triumphs with a new equanimity. In Ex Machina
(2015), AI is pronounced “only a matter of time”: the creation “Ava” (after “Eve” no doubt)
overcomes both her maker-captor and her-would be savior. But unlike Frankenstein, she,
in the end, melds seamlessly with the world. The BBC series Orphan Black (2013–2015)
is about a number of women who have been cloned, who refer to one another as “sisters.”
Released almost contemporaneously is another television series, Almost Human (2013–
2014) in which police officers are accompanied by a combat-equipped android to face a
dystopian future where crime rates are exploded. The end of this book examines two
celebrated manga movies, The Ghost in the Shell (1995) and its sequel (2004), both about
cyborgs in a futuristic age. Ventriloquizing Kleist, the second film contains the line:
“Humans are no match for a doll, in form or in elegance.”
This book is structured as a series of discrete studies in a roughly chronological order.
In addition to the central argument of this book that today’s technologized body requires
a dramatic rethinking of the natural self, the chapters demonstrate the extent of the
manifestations of the ersatz body, the body double, the doll and the mannequin
since modernism. Beginning conveniently with a corollary between Descartes and the
mechanical body, the first chapter on the commedia dell’arte draws the relation between
the mind–body split and the way in which bodies are typologized and stylized. Chapter 2
deals with the automata of the eighteenth century, while the following chapter examines
the doll as it surfaces more prominently in early modern literature, from the lesser known
texts of Jean Paul to the more celebrated of Kleist, Hoffmann and Rilke. It also looks at
INTRODUCTION 13
the drama of Maeterlinck and Craig’s theories of acting. Chapter 4 examines the work of
Bellmer and Sherman, and ends with examples of hyperrealist sculpture in contemporary
art, which are used by some artists to advance modernist concerns, but also the way they
reveal thresholds of such concerns, and our ability to relate to the nonhuman. The next
two chapters trace the living doll from the fashion model (which actually began as a doll),
to Barbie to bodybuilders, and then the contemporary inclination to have oneself
transformed into a living doll through repeated cosmetic procedures. The final chapter is
a meditation soul and body with reference to the two Ghost in the Shell manga films.
What are the moral conclusions of this book? This is hard to say as posthumanity
presents an engaging and still-unresolved moral conundrum. For it does not deplore
moral codes or commonsense, but rather acknowledges a new order in which both the
sources and the aims of humanism have been reconfigured. One is the natural body. If
ever there was one—since humans have always mediated their bodies—then the
possibility of one in the present era is more remote, and exposes itself to be of a mythic
benchmark. And when we pause to consider how much our communications are with
machines or through them, we might begin to rethink communication itself, and the lines
that join the world we live in, and the kind of bodies we inhabit.41 A central aim of this book
is to suggest that these changes—despite the neologisms such as “posthuman” and
“anthopocene”—are perhaps not as abrupt as they seem, but were imminent within
modernism, and perhaps, the shadow cast by the modern body itself.42
14
1
CLOTHES OF CARNIVAL:
PERSONAL PUPPETEERING
AND ROLE PLAY
Ah! ah! ah! ah! How I have made them scared! Here we have some fools who
fear me, me who fears others. I’faith! It is only about playing face in this world.
Had I not played the lord, and had not played the hero, they wouldn’t have
bothered nabbing me. Ah! ah! ah! ah!
—POLICHINELLE, IN MOLIÈRE, THE IMAGINARY INVALID1
In accounting for major changes in human awareness and activity, the logical place to turn
is historical circumstance: the climate of knowledge and need. Social changes that
transpire from a particular leader, or upheavals such as war or natural disaster are easy to
accept as part of the vicissitudes of change. However, the causes of changes in
consciousness and knowledge are harder to position. The alterations of worldview
instigated by Kepler and Galileo are to a great extent precipitated by growing sophistication
in lenses and the burgeoning of world travel. And the major landmark that followed from
their example was the introduction of the Cartesian cogito, in which the mind is deemed
independent from the body, and in which the only worldly certainty is that we think and
know we are alive. Descartes spent his entire professional life careful to duck accusations
of apostasy, but his system, widely agreed to be the beginning of modern philosophy, is
central to the schism between rationality and religion that would only continue to widen.
In this light, we can begin to speculate more deeply on the phenomenon of the commedia
dell’arte and its historical complement of the masque as it grew out of the sixteenth
century. People had always dressed up, even to the point of knowing that their own
enactment in social and personal settings are equivalent, yet never before had there been
such a stylization by which theater was organized.
The commedia began with a relatively prescriptive framework of costumes and
character types that were the armature for improvisation. The term commedia dell’arte
was coined toward the end of the seventeenth century,2 and was preceded by “commedia
a braccio,” “commedia all’improviso” (or improvisa), “commedia di gratiani,” “commedia
a soetto,” “commedia d’ostrioni,” “commedia italiana” and “commedia di zanni.”3 By
this time, it was embraced throughout Europe and persists to some degree to this day
15
16 THE ARTIFICIAL BODY IN FASHION AND ART
The specificity of the Commedia dell’Arte resided in the shifting of the theatre’s center
of gravity from words to mimic and action. The spoken word became but one element
among all others, often improvised, created, readapted, at any rate conditioned by a
theatrical mode more akin to the “happenings.” Thus, the specificity of the Commedia
signals that the matrix of their entertainment was a blatant transgression of the
dominant theatre’s norms; for here it is not the text that becomes action, rather it is
action that becomes text. As forms of entertainment, their performance privileged
movement over linear narrative, space over temporal development.5
Or to use the words of Gustave Attinger, the commedia dell’arte is “a plastic conception
of cinema,” plastic here understood in the sculptural sense of clear tangibility.6 As traveling
actors, placing action before language also made them more universally accessible.7 This
would later prove congenial to presound cinema. After all, the most famous modern
inheritor of the commedia’s stylized movements, and in masking and dressing up to
support improvisation, was Charlie Chaplin. But either way, improvisation opens up a
zone of uncertainty for the actor. Well before film, the fragility of the theatrical machinery
was part of the thrill.8 Occurring at the same time as the entry of women into live public
theater,9 improvisation also sounded a thoroughly modern tune since it reflected the
equivocal nature of existence itself—think of Hamlet vacillating between his perception of
himself as isolated individual or as a plaything of forces beyond his ken.10
With this form of theater, instead of the hand occupying the puppet, or controlling the
strings of the marionette,or tweaking the arms of the doll, it was the body that entered the
sheaf of costume, and the container of a character type. Commenting on a later exponent
of the commedia, the Catalan dramatist Joan Brossa, David George notes that “Commedia
characters are non-human, and as such play an important role in Brossa’s idea of theatre,
which is unsentimental and denies psychological realism. They are easily identifiable
types, able to be quickly portrayed.”11 The respective actors don clothing encoded, or
associated, with particular actors who are expected to respond in particular ways
according to prescribed character traits. In this way, the body enters into prefabricated
mechanism in order to animate it, as a hand enters into a puppet. The commedia is
conceived as a decisive turning point in notions of dramatic character and a challenge to
theatrical convention.12 But this was evidently also a symptom of new material and
psychological conditions. Just as, traditionally, dolls were both the material and the
symbolic other for self-reflection and self-growth, they were also the reminder that
the world had an order independent but inclusive of the individual. With the commedia,
the actor effectively renounces his or her particularity, to participate in a generic order,
functioning as a doll for the audience. But there was more to this, since the inherently
CLOTHES OF CARNIVAL 17
improvisatory nature of the commedia also meant that the “doll” also had its own inner
power. This was pure theatrical artifice laid bare because one knew from the very beginning
that the character was not real, but a stereotype. For all accounts the notion of clear order
of humans within a definable universe was scuttled. The commedia dell’arte, it would
seem, was the cultural manifestations of Cartesian doubt, and the comedic embodiment
of uncertainty in the modern world.
Originating in mid-sixteenth century Italy, the commedia dell’arte evolved out of
Mannerist drama. Here, Mannerism has more than one definition, but it is broadly
understood in art the jettisoning of stylistic harmonies associated with Renaissance
humanism in favor of a more jarring aesthetic that was reflected the uncertainty of the
individual in the face of church and state. One of the most cited watersheds in the way art
reflected the change of values was in the Sack of Rome in 1527 due to troops out of
control following the sudden death of the Holy Roman Emperor, Charles V. Pope Clement
VII was driven from the Vatican and thousands of priests murdered, churches and
monasteries sacked and pillaged. This was taken as a sign of the permeability of the
Church and that of faith itself. With Luther already in 1521 having incited Charles and the
former Pope, Leo X, by refusing to retract his Ninety-Five Theses, the sack was widely
seen as inaugurating a new direction. The loss of an absolute figurehead also left a spiritual
Figure 1.1 Jacques Callot, Scapino and Zerbino, masks from the commedia dell’arte (early 1600s)
engraving. Image: National Gallery of Art.
18 THE ARTIFICIAL BODY IN FASHION AND ART
vacuum. Yet, the treaty of Cateau-Cambrésis between Henri II of France and Philip II of
Spain in 1559 marked a period of relative peace, which it has been argued, also opened
a way for forms of enjoyment exemplified by new and revived comedic forms that would
coalesce into the commedia dell’arte.13
The art of this period, understood as the cusp of the modern world, varied from the
Renaissance in numerous and quite marked ways, mainly through recourse to discordant
relationships, and a growing emphasis on conceits and fancies. This could be seen not
only in the birth of the commedia,14 but also in the painting and music of the period. While
composers like Carlo Gesualdo relied on musical dissonances that would anticipate the
music of the twentieth century and its distrust of melody, painters such as Pontormo
would place their figures in unfathomable settings worthy of the Surrealists, while
Parimigianino rejoiced in jettisoning natural bodily proportion, stretching figures to give
them an alluringly serpentine but out-of-this world elegance. The statuesque portraits of
artists such as Bronzino and Allori were characterized by a striking inscrutability, and their
faces have an opaque, sculpted quality as if the sitter were wearing mask. A common
property to painting as well as sculpture (Giambologna) was a tenseness and torsion to
poses and gestures. While Renaissance artists such as Piero della Francesca placed his
figures with a strong, harmonious architectonic order, or imbued them with a lyrical
naturalism (Leonardo), the figure of Mannerist art was undeniably one that was out of
sorts with its surroundings, uncomfortable in the world, hence improvising a role rather
than participating in a harmonic, closed circle of divine immanence.
The masks used in the commedia helped in the stylization of character by obscuring
facial attitudinizing, hence minimizing psychological import. Other signs of Mannerism, as
Paul Castagno observes, included “typification of form (lack of individuality, conventionality),
focus on surface treatment (costume, excessive ornamentation), lack of dimensionality or
depth, exaggeration and distortion, and emphasis on parts versus the unity of the entire
design.”15 He correctly states that the commedia lays the ground for modernist art,
especially in the slackening of links between form and representation.16 While modernist
visual art is a (heroic) struggle with different forms of abstraction, drama experimented
with various abstractions of affect. As Arnold Hauser remarks in his huge study of
Mannerism: “To mannerism . . . all things presented themselves in distorted forms, under
a cloak of concealment that made their true nature impossible to ascertain. The mask was
never laid aside, the cloak never thrown off.”17 On the other hand, the active assumption
of otherness and the renunciation of self, was a ploy that sought to go beyond appearances
through the visible display of deception. Hence, the paradox of masquerade is that it
presents something more authentic through the skin of the inauthentic. It is a reversal no
different from the classic psychoanalytic insight about disavowal: “I don’t care what he
thinks” means the very opposite.18 Thus, modernist subjective particularism and
individuality is haunted by, or only enabled by its opposite; the stereotype. And it is
precisely through the stereotype that categories of identity are cast into radical doubt.
The emphasis on type is also something germane to comedy. As Constant Mic
observes, if there is some engagement with character in comedy it is not in the same
regard as with tragedy because the comedic character embraces a particular condition,
a certain stereotype:
CLOTHES OF CARNIVAL 19
The vice or the character trait that he presents has to be intimately integrated into the
person, confounding completely with his personality. In the contrary case, if the comic
trait has not entirely absorbed into the personality of the one who acts on stage, if it
remains isolated and lives on in him like a kind of parasite, it can provoke laughs. Each
comic character is a type, and every human being that is like a certain type, and is
possibly reducible to several banal traits already has a certain comic element. Comedy
is dominated by types; in tragedy, on the contrary, the living personality of the hero
contains and absorbs the complex unity of vices, faults, the various traits that the type
schematizes. Bergson makes a striking example for this point: comedies often take a
vice or human weakness as their title (The Miser, The Gambler, The Distracted One),
whereas the title of dramas is generally the name of the person.19
With the commedia, this was stretched to the point of challenging the nature of personality
and individuality. For the circumscription of characters into types meant a double-
movement of conformity and then a set of exceptions for the sake of dramatic surprise.
But it was also such simplification that made their popularity extend beyond the upper
classes, of whom only a fraction were stimulated by the more “commedia erudita,” whose
conventionality and abstruse references had a tendency to ponderousness. The French
Parlement of the sixteenth century sought regularly to ban the commedia dell’arte, while
courtly and public approbation, charmed by its satire and ribaldry, ensured it remained.20
of Atellan farce. One of the reasons for considering them a threat was their appeal to the
general public as they were one of the earliest forms of what we would today categorize
as B-grade popular entertainment. Often performed in public places and more ad hoc
than other dramatic forms, they inevitably drew from events of their time and fed on public
sentiment. Their power of penetration into the public mind was great enough to incite
persecution, as when Caligula had an author of an Atellan farce burned in the arena, and
Nero had an actor called Datus exiled for mentioning Claudius and Agrippa, both of whom
died under suspicious circumstances,22 a mention that was meant to bode the same for
him. Suetonius tells of an occasion of popular ferment against the unpopular Emperor
Galba, who reigned for a mere seven months (68–69 CE ). As R. Reynolds explains in his
essay on the criticism of people in Roman theater:
When the Atellan actors struck up a notissum canticum which began “Venit Onesimus
a villa,” all the spectators took it up with one voice and sang it through several times,
beginning at this line. The exact nature of the allusion is unknown. Onesimus may well
have been an avaricious master; the song was in that case sung by his town slaves
regretting his return from his country estate. For Galba’s return from Spain had been
proceeded by a number of legends about his avarice and meanness. Some think the
name should be Dorsennus, the name of the well-known stock character in the Atellan
burlesque. Others prefer to read “Io Simus,” though Galba is known to have been
hook-nosed. But the point of importance is that again the Atellan actor was the
mouthpiece of the crowd and the representative of public opinion.23
These are isolated examples and other commentators suggest that the farce largely
stopped as such, as farce.24 In any event, the forays into theatrical activism would not last
however, for by the second century, the Atellan genre was almost wholly superseded by
mime. Its influence on Roman drama should however not be underestimated as the
dramatist Plautus gained his earlier experience as an actor of Atellan farce and then of
mime, and his proficiency in Atellan theater played a cardinal role in his proficiency as a
comedian in his own plays, in which he was also an actor.25
Insofar as the actors inhabited these types as ciphers or constants, Atellan farce is the
closest early approximation to the commedia, however with distinct points of difference.
Little is known as to the nature of the clothing, although masks were widely used in all
forms of drama since ancient Greece. Atellan actors relied on their own actions and their
costumes would have varied, or were sometimes nonexistent, with the emphasis on word
and gesture. The main point of character reference for the Oscan period appears to have
been dominated by masks, the bodies were clothed in traditional togas and tunics.26 The
off-hand, brazen nature of this form of theater also owed itself to the simple fact that it was
a simplification and a vulgarization of the more literary form of dramaturgy.27 If a particular
play had a script, it was relatively loose, and any hole could be filled with spontaneous
ribaldry and ham-handed comedy. There is also plenty of evidence of paraded priapism
with hilarious prostheses, overt homosexuality (albeit not a discrete concept then), and
transvestism, the latter particularly conducive for farces of mistaken identity.28 In the words
of Pierre-Louis Duchartre, “if the farces were often lacking in propriety they possessed, on
CLOTHES OF CARNIVAL 21
Figure 1.2 Actor from the Atellan farce, sculpture, Italy, tenth century. London, British Museum.
Photo by DeAgostini/Getty Images.
the other hand, the more essential quality of life, as is witnessed by the ancient bas-reliefs
and frescoes.”29 Thus, the Atellan mode consisted in the pagan rituals of Pan and Dionysus
simplified down into the contemporary, popular vulgate, shorn of their sacred import and
reveling in their physicality. When we turn to Plautine drama’s debt to Atellan farce, some
scholars persist with the view that one of the ways that Plautus removed himself from
Atellan farce was to do away with the mask. This has been increasingly discredited while
converging on the notion that Plautine masks were less unnaturalistic than symbolic, with
outlandish and often animalistic traits.30 Yet, Plautine drama, while involving caricature and
exaggeration, noticeably did away with the use of stocks types, with one detail of evidence
being that Plautus was disposed to individualizing his masks by retouching them.31
These comic routines, using stock characters designed to make the audience erupt
with laughter, would later come to be known more broadly as lazzi.32 But it was the
commedia dell’arte that was conducted along these lines using generic characterizations
and closely linked costumes. There is evidence of consistency with set costumes from the
Atellan period, especially with regard to Pulchinella, who will be discussed shortly, but the
comparisons are still very slight. To be frank, the costuming of the commedia dell’arte is
in direct lineage to the superheroes of the late modern era, or more precisely and more
22 THE ARTIFICIAL BODY IN FASHION AND ART
heightened the type so that characteristic pieces of business may be associated with
the part until they became traditional. With the emphasis on type, the interest was
centred on what the type-actor did and on how he did it. The traditional costume was
always recognized, and that, coupled with the bare outline in the scenario, made it
necessary for the performer to be a man of action, and to appeal to the eye. This, then,
led the actor to assume poses and make gestures, usually exaggerated or grotesque,
which left little to the imagination of the spectators. The most striking observance, in
this connection, is the vividness with which the movements and positions definitely
picturize the situation.33
Physicality and visuality through impersonalization is key here. For while social commentary
was well and truly deployed, in the commedia there is also a pervading sense of alienation
of the individual, which is articulated through constant conflict and irresolution of the plot,
the closure of the end being but a punctuation mark in what would eventuate in yet more
disruptions and mayhem. Understanding this alienation is crucial, for while Atellan actors
inhabited their characters to simplify known events through allegorizing them, for the
benefit of a crowd hungry for expressive acknowledgment of their frustrations and
suspicions, the commedia is a far more reflexive and solipsistic. The masks, for instance,
not only transform the actors into genera, but are a barrier that can be interpreted in a
number of ways, beginning with the insufficiency and incompleteness of communication
and the difference between audience and actor, person and puppet, despite their
codependence. There is no doubt that the commedia was a readaptation of Greco-
Roman farce, but with great modifications and operating under a different concept of
society and self, an issue to which we will return.
The distinction between Atellan farce and the commedia was therefore not only that
the latter deployed motley costumes but in the masks themselves. As Efrat Tseëlon
observes, “In the ancient world or in tribal societies, the mask had a fixed role—
transformative, protective, empowering; its modern and postmodern usages are multiple
and shifting, metaphorical and real, expressing danger and relief.”34 What is noteworthy is
that this a transition that is not attributable to the shift from paganism to Christianity, but
more to the evolution of the free modern subject who, in being granted freedom is
suddenly faced with an intolerable alienation. It is alienation from God and society as well
as, conceivably, from the body itself.
The other major forerunner in the chronology leading to the commedia dell’arte was
the carnivals of the Middle Ages. These took several forms, namely, as public fêtes
involving performing troupes of jongleurs, dancers and tricksters, to the dressing up by
the upper classes during group festivities. Dressing up would continue as a popular
constant to climax in the courtly masque of the seventeenth century. With its origins in
pageants of the Dukes of Burgundy in the time before the Renaissance, the masque was
CLOTHES OF CARNIVAL 23
Figure 1.3 Giuseppe Maria Mitelli, Harlequin, 1678, engraving. Photo by DeAgostini/Getty Images.
something between pagan ritual and theatrical play. Its continuing popularity lay not only
in its motley display, but also that it allowed for those behind the mask to become someone
or something else, temporarily unencumbered by their everyday identity. Another precursor
was the dumbshow. Also developing from the Middle Ages, the dumbshow was a
pantomime at the beginning or middle of a spoken play used to complement the main
action with what was more metaphoric or allegorical. A famous instance of this is the
pantomime within Hamlet (III , ii). By this time (c. 1600), the commedia dell’arte was on its
way to becoming a cultural institution. In many ways, it conjoins the Atellan genre with the
dumbshow. It is worth remembering that while antiquity had dolls, there was no known
institution of puppet theater as such. Moreover the dumbshow did not use a conventional
set of defined character types.
version of Pulcinella, Policinelle, Punch, Jan Klassen and Petroucka, among other variants
that also extend to Hanswurst in Germanu—arrived in England in 1662, and was acted
before he evolved into a puppet at the end of the century.35 Pullus Gallinaceus, thence
Puccio d’Aniello, condensed to become Polecenella with the Neopolitan dialect, bears a
strong resemblance to Maccus of the Oscan mimes, the generations that took over from
farce. Maccus was a bastardization of Bacchus, but really referred back to the companion
of Dionysus (the Greek progenitor of Bacchus), Silenus, the fat old man who was
permanently drunk, bawdy and free of inhibitions. Like the Punch we know, he too was
masked, hunch-backed, pot-bellied and hook-nosed. A similar figure was excavated in
Herculaneum, and also drawn on the walls of a Pompeiian guard room before it was effaced
by nineteenth-century tourists.36 (He also seems to have precedents in the flabby cheeks
and oversized mouth in Bucco.)37 But the parallels go far deeper as Michael Byrom explains:
This is a striking and strong claim, albeit couched as a question. The comprehensive
evidence of continuity between the early Oscan traditions and the commedia dell’arte of
the Mannerist period onward, should not deter from the main thesis here, which is to
argue of a much widespread and more complexified deployment of this system of theater.
For by the end of the seventeenth century, the commedia had become relatively
ubiquitous across Europe, and had developed fairly specific forms of dress and gestural
patterns that took it away from the more “literary” or scripted theatrical forms. As Catherine
Velay-Vallantin observes, at this time at end of the seventeenth century, the commedia
began to have a very particularized set of movements amounting to the respective
characters, with mechanized movements, with an acrobatic element that had a strong
visual effect.39 It is also no coincidence that marionette theater, specifically dolls controlled
with strings, appeared in central Europe in the sixteenth century.40 Polichinelle appeared
in France for the first time in 1649, and a little later thanks to the Brioché father and son
troupe (from the Italian, Briocci), he was turned into a marionette. This coincided with the
time when the living members of the commedia began to mimic the movements of
marionettes.41 The mechanical body was also the beginning of the modern body, and of
course, the thinker of the seventeenth century to have entrenched the notion of the body
as machine was René Descartes.
CLOTHES OF CARNIVAL 25
Figure 1.4 Maurice Sand, Polichinelle in 1820. Engraving from the ommedia dell’arte study entitled
Masques et buffons, comédie italienne, Paris 1860. Venice, Casa di Carlo Goldini. Photo by
DeAgostini/Getty Images.
The notion of the body ruled by mechanical principles was taken up by some of the
earlier writings by Descartes well before the Discourse on Method, but published
posthumously. Titled The World and Man, this was Descartes’s first attempt at a systematic
natural philosophy. His treatise on Man asks for us to consider that bodily functions.
All follow naturally, in this machine, from the single provision of its organs, neither more
nor less than do the movements of a clock or some other automaton, from its
counterweights and its cogs; so that we must conceive on their account in it no other
vegetative soul, not sensible, nor any other principle of movement and life. . . .43
The nerves of the machine that I am describing can be compared to the pipes in the
mechanical parts of these fountains, its muscles and tendons to various other engines
and springs which serve to operate these mechanical parts, its animal spirits to the
water that drives them, the heart to the source of the water, and the brain’s cavities to
apertures. Moreover, respiration and similar actions which are normal and natural to
this machine, and which depend on the flow of spirits, are like the movements of a
clock or mill, which the normal flow of water can make continuous. External objects,
which by their mere presence act on the organs of sense and thereby cause them to
move in many different ways . . . are like strangers who on entering the grottoes of
these fountains unwittingly cause the movements that take place before their eyes. For
they cannot enter without stepping on certain tiles which are arranged in such a way
that, for example, if they approach a Diana bathing they will cause her to hide in the
reeds, and if they move forward to pursue her they will cause a Neptune to advance
and threaten them with a trident.44
This is a remarkable, and exhaustive portrait that sets out to consider the human body
in an objective and materialist fashion. Descartes’s biographer Desmond Clarke considers
that while not mentioned in his correspondence, it is nonetheless highly likely that the
inspiration for these metaphors derived from the engineer and architect Salomon de
Caus, who in 1615 published his Explanation of Moving Forces, with various machines
both useful and decorative: to which are added various designs for Grottoes and
Fountains.45 According to de Caus, a machine is “a combination and firm connection
of timber or other material, which has the power and movement either from itself or from
any other source.”46 Among other things, his book had designs for hydraulic machines
that could make similar sounds and movements to those of humans and animals.47
Influenced by his brother, in 1644, Isaac de Caus produced a design for a group of
automated birds powered by a water wheel and pegged cylinder that, as will become
evident in the next chapter, was the basis of the most famous automata of the following
century.
Despite such specialized antecedents, it would be Descartes who was perhaps the
most influential in entrenching the analogy of the body as machine. Another famous,
corresponding, parallel arises in the Leviathan (1651), where Thomas Hobbes compares
CLOTHES OF CARNIVAL 27
society to a huge automaton. Shortly after Descartes death, the machine-body analogy
had penetrated into several orders of life, as evidenced by the entry on the marionette in
Antoine Furetière’s dictionary of 1690:
MARIONETTE . Subst. woman. Small puppet moved by levers and which appears
animated, like a Saltimbanque, which is behind a small theatre and is made to speak,
play and dance to give pleasure to children and people. Ironically one also calls a
young woman a marionette. Descartes says that beasts act only as marionettes, and
that the agitation of their blood acts in lieu of the levers; that one can but admire their
small manners (petites addresses), as the levers of a clock which, without a soul,
marks the hours better than any human could.48
In his commentary on this passage, Michel Manson observes that it returns to a theme
already present in antiquity, that of animism which is applied to religion and magic as well
as toys.49 The object, the machine is in effect given life as a result of brute perception, but
also belief and imagination.
Descartes’s adoption of the mechanical principles of the body set him on the decisive
direction to positing the mind-body division. As he states in what is now his most famous
document, the Discourse on Method, “the soul by which I am what I am, is entirely distinct
from the body; and even if it is easier to know than the body, it would still be what it is
even if the body were not to exist.”50 It was also by setting the mind up as something
discretely different from the workings of the body that opened up the question as to its
foundation and orientation. Hence, Descartes ushered in methodic doubt, which was
essentially to change the question as to what is true to the how something can be known.
In doing so, Descartes made humans responsible for knowledge where before it had
been God who was the chief guarantor of truth; certainty became a matter of individual
judgment. Descartes fundamentally unmoored human principles from the binding
principles of deity, and placed the burden of knowledge on the shoulders of humans.
While scholars of Mannerism such as Hauser place Descartes in opposition to earlier
thinkers such as Michel de Montaigne, whom he sees as thoroughly embodying
Mannerism from a literary and theoretical perspective, it is the Cartesian split that is
important here; and it is the contention here that the commedia dell-arte is modernized
incarnation of comedy in the classical comedy-tragedy division. Unlike its antecedents in
Oscan theater, the commedia dell’arte quickly evolved to have an intimate and manifold
relationship to dolls and puppetry. The modern subject may be independent; the modern
subject literally pulled its own strings, but this was also a condition for the plague of
uncertainties.
Despite its forerunners, the claim that the commedia dell’arte is a cultural phenomenon
unique to the modern era must align to the notions that Descartes helped to shake up and
shape. But it is also this alignment that brings to the fore something that the commedia
dell-arte achieved through comedy, which was a strong emphasis on otherness, and the
estrangement of the other, analogous to the estrangement of the body from the mind. As
Domenico Scafoglio presciently observes, comedy had always been conceived according
to the actions and lives of others: “the comic figure is always the same albeit in different
28 THE ARTIFICIAL BODY IN FASHION AND ART
ways, being foreign to the culture he lives in: in Rome one said the Atellan dramatists
came from Atella; the comedians of Roman theater were slaves, and so again foreigners;
the buffons from urban European societies came from the country or were thought to be;
the masques of the Commedia dell’Arte of the sixteenth to the eighteenth century were
generally ethnic masques that represented under typologized forms, neighbouring
cultures.”51 In their anthology of documents on the commedia, Ferdinando Taviani and
Mirella Schino divide the various professionals of the commedia spectacle into not only
actors, but also “charlatans, buffoons and beggars.”52 In further support of this, the zanni
is known to be the “dispossessed immigrant worker.”53 They were all from the lower
orders of society, and were they not in entertainment, mostly undesirable.
It does not take much to extrapolate that the commedia were also a dramatic solution
to the otherness of the body to the mind. As living dolls, they were, as it were, all body, all
machine, each one reflecting a particular appetitive state. Moreover, by actors inhabiting
preexistent types with their attendant rules of voice and action they insert themselves into
the body of the other that gives them a certainty that they do not have as individual human
beings. The entire body becomes a mask, and the costume allows for theatrical stylization
analogous to the controlled bodies of puppets themselves. It was a highly positive avowal
of the body as machine. The best example of this is preserved in the etchings of Jacques
Callot from 1621 (see Figure 1.1), and later in the works of Claude Gillot (Plates 1 and 2).
Apart from their technical mastery, the most recognizable aspect of these small works is
the very lack of naturalism to the poses: They are arachnid, simian, serpentine and
amphibious; contorted, bent and tensile; the forms are not humanoid but not human,
pulled by invisible strings or as if inhabited by an inner mechanism, or armature. But their
expressive, animal aptitudes are noticed immediately.
After all, as Descartes argued, the body was much easier to know than the mind. With
the bodies as machine-like, and the characters as preordained, audiences were given an
anchorage of certainty within the comedic chaos. In this regard, there is also a connection
to be drawn between the commedia and madness in the age of reason, as described by
Michel Foucault in his seminal history Madness and Civilization (1960): Reason, as
epitomized by the Cartesian cogito, necessitated a less well defined other for its
subsistence; with the birth of reason also comes the birth of its shadow, madness.54
In contemplating dualities between body and mind, madness and reason, it is worth
returning to the physicality of the commedia, which it inherited from the Oscan theater. In
the early days of the commedia, upon its entry into France, remarks Duchartre, “The jovial
and crude naturalism of the art of the Italians, in contrast to the French theatre, which
inclined rather more to reason or logic, oftentimes seemed intolerably vulgar to many
contemporaries.”55 But the physicality was not limited to slapstick and melodrama, it was
also a way of making the body act out the expressions of the face, while the face was
static because it was covered by a mask. In this regard, the strategy of the pantomime
artist is no different from the marionettist: “The art of playing with the mask, then, is not
conceivable without a perfect knowledge of pantomime. When once this is mastered all
the muscles of the actor’s body co-operate in his interpretation and perform the expressive
function of the muscles of the face.”56 This can be expressed more obliquely but more
beautifully by Paul Verlaine’s poem “Pantomime” whose third stanza runs: “That scoundrel
CLOTHES OF CARNIVAL 29
at once imploring yet withheld. But to any viewer who spends any time with this work, it
becomes noticeable that the core of the tension is precisely that he is being so human,
yet in costume. He has assumed a role which he is not actively playing, unlike the figures
we see below who have a more active and mischievous air. It is also unclear whether,
according to a humanist reading at least, he wishes momentarily to escape his guise and
communicate to us as a person as such, or whether he comes to us as having permanently,
pathologically, assumed his character and appears to us as this proxy. What then he
presents to us is made interminably ambiguous apart from the tautological fact stated in
the title. In his examination of Watteau and the art drawn from the commedia, Günther
Hansen describes the art as depicting a world in which “authenticity can no longer be
found,” where the figures lie suspended between “appearance and being, between stage
and world.”64
In many respects, Watteau’s painting is a coda for the decentered modernist subject.
Pierrot and Harlequins would continue to be a staple of both academic and modern art—
from Gérôme to Cézanne (Plate 4) to Picasso—and their meaning would expand to
suggest the artist himself, not only to propagate the myth of the mute who must express
himself in words, but also as the outsider and the madman. Such iconography was also
the expression of the venerable Platonic skepticism about the artist as the purveyor of
seductive but false truths. Ultimately, to play the doll was to renounce the transparency of
self, to displace the notion of nuclear self, the Cartesian cogito, to become a perverse or
even degraded being. The modernist artist as outsider would have growing affinity with
the outsider to biological body: the automaton, the doll and the marionette. If the artist
trafficked in representations, in a world different from the real one, then the artist might
have the right to occupy this world as well. From the eighteenth century, there was a
growing interest in the possibility of machines that could form complex human functions,
but also the obverse, of the human falling in love with, or wanting to become, a machine.
This is to be seen plentifully in not only literature and later art, but also in the craze for
making robots and automata, the subject of the chapter to follow.
2
A SOUL IN CONTROL: THE
ART OF THE AUTOMATON
My friend, there are three models, the man of nature, the man of poetry and the
man of acting. The one of nature is not as great as the poet who is in turn not as
great as the great actor, the most exaggerated of all. The latter climbs onto the
shoulders of the poet, a large wicker mannequin that houses its soul, shaking
this figure fearfully, even to the extent that the poet no longer recognizes himself.
The sensitive man obeys the impulses of his nature and precisely only
expresses the cry of his heart; the moment he tempers or forces the cry, he
ceases to play himself and an actor takes over.
—DIDEROT, THE PARADOX OF THE ACTOR1
One of the curious ironies of the Enlightenment period is that the same period when the
subject began to defend his (usually his) unique status, independent thought and so on,
was also when the first successful robots and automatons were being built. These figures
and contraptions were based largely on mechanics devised from clockwork. In the
eighteenth century, Descartes’s metaphor of the body and the machine was now a reality,
or at least a concrete alias. There had been examples of automata well before, but in the
eighteenth century, they became more than eccentricities by becoming powerful
mechanisms by which to understand and contemplate the nature of life, physiology and
creativity. Since the mechanical body was no longer a metaphor, but a perceived reality, it
brought questions of free will and consciousness into sharper relief, and also enlivened
speculation, that would later be articulated by Kleist, as to whether free will and consciousness
were indeed desirable. Diderot also articulates this in his paradox of the actor: A good actor
must dim his expression, in essence mute his humanity, in order to divulge a more compelling
humanity on stage. While this case is told to be untenable by most actors, that need not
matter, for the point in question is that Diderot found it necessary to make such a point.
Interest in mechanical bodies reached a peculiarly new pitch in the eighteenth century.
This is not entirely attributable to technological advancements. In his detailed study of
simulated bodies, Marquard Smith observes:
31
32 THE ARTIFICIAL BODY IN FASHION AND ART
Early automata
One of the earliest citable examples of automata comes from the hands of Ktesibios, also
the first head of the Alexandrine Library, who is reputed to have invented the first cuckoo
clock. Subsequently, in Alexandria, the mathematician Heron wrote about hydraulics and
A SOUL IN CONTROL 33
pneumatics, and is reputed to have invented the aeolipile, or Heron’s engine, the first
steam engine, or turbine. There are also some recorded instances of automata in ancient
China, as reported by the Lie Zi text of the third century BCE . Yet, the description is more
than mildly implausible, describing a lifelike figure that sang in tune, danced and winked
its eye.3 Automata would continue to be reported and described, as when Liutprand, an
ambassador from Cremona, visited Theophilius’s palace in Constantinople in 949, and
declared to see all manner of lifelike, mobile lions and singing birds.4 Little is preserved,
however, as to how these were set in operation, and the accounts are hard to verify.
In the middle of the fifteenth century, Johannes Müller, otherwise called Regiomontanus,
fabricated a fly out of iron propelled by cogs that walked about on a table, and an eagle out
of iron or wood that is said to have flown toward the King of Nürnberg. According to other
sources, it stood at the country gate, nodding and flapping its wings on the king’s approach.
In the sixteenth century, also in Nürnberg, Albrecht Dürer’s stepfather Hans Frey built hollow
statues that consumed water, much in the manner of earlier Arabic automatons that drank
and expelled wine. Hanns Bullman, also active in the early sixteenth century, fabricated a
variety of figures based on clockwork that also registered themselves rhythmically. Some
could also launch bullets. A short time later, Caspar Werner made a ship that navigated itself
on a tabletop inhabited by a woman beating a cymbal, and at the helm was a boy who
moved his head while guiding the rudder with both hands, while at the rear lay a Cupid with
Figure 2.1 Heron performs an experiment with an aeolipile before the students of the School of
Alexandria. Anonymous engraving, nineteenth century. Photo by Universal History Archive/UIG via
Getty Images.
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"Niin, olisihan nyt oikea aika ostaa maatila, jos vain tietäisi
parempien aikojen koittavan. Mutta jos kurjuus vielä jatkuu
vuodenkaan, niin onhan maamme kelvoton asuttavaksi. — Ei vielä
tiedetä, mitä valtio aikoo tehdä. Ja mitä se voikaan tehdä? Eihän
hallitus voi elättää kokonaista kansaa. Lainata, sanotaan. Mutta kuka
tahtoo meille lainata? Tiistaina on meillä neuvottelukokous. Minä
ehdotan, että me lainaamme valtiolle hopeamme (lusikat, kerma-
astiat y.m.), jotka säilytettäköön valtion holvissa hypoteekkina
juoksevasta setelistöstä. Siten vapautettaisiin se hopea, joka nyt on
siellä." —
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Samoin kuin Kihlman kirjeessään joulukuulla loi katsauksen
syyskauteen, on hän 7 p:nä kesäk. 1868 kirjoittamassaan kirjeessä
äidille kertonut saman lukuvuoden kevätkaudesta. Siitä seuraava
ote: — — "Lukukauden lopulla koulutyö säännöllisesti enentyy
kertausten, tenttien ja konferenssien johdosta. Tänä vuonna työ
kasvoi tavallista enemmän, syystä että senaatti peruutti
suunnittelemamme korkeimman luokan. [Kirjeessä 15 p:ltä huhtik.
1868 määrättiin, että valmistava luokka oli lakkautettava ja koulun
luokkien luku rajoitettava 8:aan. Ks. V. T. Rosenqvist, Svenska
Normallyceum 1864-1914, siv. 24 ss.] Se tapahtui säästäväisyydestä.
Mutta tästä peruutuksesta seurasi, että meidän täytyi suurimmassa
kiireessä valmistaa 7:nnen luokan oppilaat (joiden meidän
laskelmamme mukaan olisi tullut erota koulusta vasta ensi vuonna)
suorittamaan ylioppilastutkintonsa vuotta ennen. Se mitä olisi ollut
luettava koko tulevana vuonna, oli nyt supistettava muutaman viikon
aikaan, ja luonnollista on, että sekä opettajien että oppilaiden oli
äärimmäiseen asti ponnistaminen voimiansa. Tavalliset työpäivät
eivät riittäneet. Monta sunnuntaita olen istunut koulussa, jotta
oppimääräni tulisi suoritetuksi. — — Ja kun vihdoin tutkinto oli ohi,
ryhdyin pitämään rippikoulua 10:lle koulumme oppilaalle, ja sitä on
jatkunut kaikki aamu- ja iltapäivät. — Mutta, Jumalan kiitos, loppu
lähenee, ja tämän viikon ummettua toivon lepoajan koittavan
minullekin."
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