Billie by
#Billie 1/18
Billie by
32 - 58
The Billie trousers are a must-have for your wardrobe. A true classic with
narrow legs tapered towards the hem and a cropped ankle length.
Not too wild about trousers that short? Just lengthen them until they’re
the perfect length for you! The waistband sits just below the natural waist
and features convenient hidden pockets in the side seams.
Combine Billie with the Kai blazer in Issue No. 4 and you've got suit of
dreams. We love Billie styled with the Vita T-shirt and a pair of trainers!
#Billie 2/18
size chart
size (EU) 32 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58
UK 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30
W
US 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26
H
W (cm) 66 68 70 74 78 82 84 88 94,5 101 107,5 114 120,5 127
W (inches) 26 26.8 27.6 29.1 30.7 32.3 33.1 34.6 37.2 39.8 42.3 44.9 47.4 50
H (cm) 86 90 94 97 100 103 106 109 115 120 125 130 135 140
H (inches) 33.9 35.4 37 38.2 39.4 40.6 41.7 42.9 45.3 47.2 49.2 51.2 53.1 55.1
Waist (W): measure horizontally around the narrowest part of the waist.
Hips (H): measure horizontally around the widest part of the lower body.
finished garment measurements (in cm)
This measurements in the table below serve as a reference. Ease
has been added to the width measurements (in addition to the exact
body measurements) for a more comfortable fit and to achieve a
particular cut.
size 32 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58
side length* 91.5 92 92.5 93 93.5 94 94.5 95.25 95.75 96.25 96.75 97.25 98 98.5
inseam length 63.75 63.75 64 64 64 64 64.25 64.25 64.5 64.5 64.75 65 65.25 65.25
waistline** 72 74 76 80 84 88 90 94.25 100.5 107 113.5 119.75 126.25 132.75
hips 93.5 97.5 101.5 104.5 107.5 110.5 113.5 116.5 122.5 127.5 132.5 137.5 142.5 147.75
hem circumference 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46
* Including the waistband.
** Be sure to remember that this circumference is under the natural waist.
Compare the stated lengths to the measured or desired lengths. Shorten or lengthen
the trouser legs and rise by cutting the pattern pieces at the indicated double
lines and then spreading the pattern pieces out X cm from each other or over-
lapping them, where necessary. Make sure that the CF and CB lines and the side
seams are always straight.
IMPORTANT
Adjust the fabric to be used based on these alterations.
fabric advice The Billie trousers are versatile when it comes to fabric. Choose from cotton, wool or suiting
and have fun with prints or solid colours.This pattern works best in fabrics with some struc-
ture. Try to avoid fabrics with too much drape. Find out all the facts about the Fibre Mood
fabric collection here or on www.fibremood.com/en/fabrics.
#Billie 3/18
supplies
• Thread
• Iron-on interfacing: max. 40 cm
• Snaps or buttons (Ø 2 cm): 1
• Zip: 12 cm (sz 32-44) – 14 cm (sz 46-58)
• Fabric: see table
fabric used (in cm)
32 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58
collection
purple crepe
145 145 145 145 145 145 145 145 220 220 220 225 230 235
fabric width 147 cm
black & pink herringbone
145 145 145 145 145 145 145 145 220 220 220 225 230 235
fabric width 150 cm
Discover the Fibre Mood fabric collection and the accompanying fabric layouts here or on
www.fibremood.com/en/fabrics.
fabric used (in cm)
32 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58
standard
fabric width 140 cm 145 145 145 145 145 145 145 215 220 220 220 230 235 235
The corresponding fabric layout can be found on the last page of these sewing
instructions.
#Billie 4/18
sewing instructions
The method used to hem the garment will depend on your chosen
fabric. The pieces are always sewn together with right sides facing,
unless stated otherwise.
F front
B back
RF right front
LF lef t front
CF centre front
CB centre back
right side
wrong side
iron-on inter facing
1 1
1
Fold the front (1) and back (2) in half lengthwise with the right
1 2
side of the fabric facing outwards at the nicks on the waist
and hemline. Press the fold line.
#Billie 5/18
Place the pocket (= inner pocket bag) (6) onto the front
6
with the basting threads matching and right sides together.
Sew a perpendicular line from the side seam in a ‘U’ from
6 basting thread to basting thread.
Snip diagonally towards the corners of the basting threads
6
at the top and bottom.
6 1
Fold the pocket and the seam allowance away from the
pants and understitch the pocket at 2 mm next to the seam
through the pocket and seam allowance.
6 1
#Billie 6/18
Fold the pocket all the way onto the wrong side of the front.
Press neatly flat.
1
6 6 Place the remaining pocket piece (6) (= pocket opening)
1 6 1 under the front with the right side facing up and the basting
threads matching the basting threads in the corners.
Neatly pin the pocket pieces to the front.
6 6
1 1
1 1,5 cm
Fold the front out of the way and pin the curves of the
6
pocket pieces and sew at 1.5 cm.
Finish the raw edges together with overlock stitching.
6
1
0,5 cm
6 Pin and sew the pocket pieces at 0.5 cm from the top and
6 1 side.
0,5 cm
#Billie 7/18
6
LFP
1
2
Cut off a section of the LF shaped fly along the indicated
line.
Finish the CF edges with overlock stitching.
1 1
RFP
LFP
Pin the RF and LF together. Make sure that the V notches
on the CF are matching. The fly of the RF should extend
slightly past the LF. Sew the CF seams in place starting
at the basting threads up to around 2 cm from the edge
1
of the inseam.
LFP
1,5 cm
1
LFP
First lay the zip with the right side facing up. Open the zip
and flip the zip tape marked with a small green star over
to the right and onto the LF. The edge of the zip tape should
lie next to the overlock stitching. The zip teeth should sit
1 1.5 cm under the top edge. Pin and sew into place at 1 cm
RFP from the CF seam (= the middle of the zip tape) using the
zipper presser foot. Next fold the zip tape back to the left.
1
LFP
#Billie 8/18
RFP
LFP
Close the zip and fold both front pieces with the right sides
facing each other. The V notches indicating the CF should
match perfectly. Smooth both pieces flat and pin the zip
tape (marked with a red star) in place to the RF fly.
1
LFP
1cm
RFP
LFP
Open the zip and sew the zip tape in place using the zipper
presser foot.
Fold the RF shaped fly over at the V notch.
Pin in place and top stitch (from the right side) following
the curve of the fly.
Fold the LF fly (7) in half lengthwise at the V notches with
the right side of the fabric facing inwards.
#Billie 9/18
Finish the raw edges together at the side and bottom with
overlock stitching.
7
1
LFP
Pin and sew the overlocked raw edges of the fly to the
1 seam allowance of the LF.
RFP
1 1
LVP RVP
Press the fly to the side and close the zip. Sew the bottom
1 1
LFP RFP of the shaped RF fly and the LF fly together with just a few
hand stitches.
3
2 Fold the back (2) in half with the right side of the fabric
facing inwards. Ensure that all the waistband nicks on the
2 waistband seam are matching.
Sew the dart towards the basting thread. Sew 1 cm past
the basting thread, so that you've sewn past the fabric.
Snip the thread and make a knot. Press the dart towards
the CB.
#Billie 10/18
Finish the CB seams with overlock stitching.
Pin and sew the CB seams stopping at approximately 2 cm
in from the edge of the inseam.
2 cm
2
2
4
Pin and sew the side seams of the front and back. Make
sure not to sew the pocket opening closed.
2 2
#Billie 11/18
Add extra reinforcement stitching at the top and bottom of
the pocket opening.
2 2
Finish the raw edges together with overlock stitching.
2 1 Press the seam allowance towards the back.
2 2
Pin and sew the inseams.
#Billie 12/18
Finish the raw edges together with overlock stitching.
Press the seam allowance towards the back.
2
1 2
5
Slide one trouser leg into the other with the right sides of
the fabric facing. Pin and sew the remaining crotch seam.
6
Pin and sew each of the side seams of the waistband RF (3),
5 waistband back (5) and waistband LF (4). Press open the
4 seam allowances.
LFP
3 5
Finish the bottom of the waistband with overlock stitching,
so that the waistband LF (4) is on the right side. Repeat for
3 4 second waistband.
#Billie 13/18
Pin and sew the top of both waistbands right sides together
with the corresponding nicks matching.
3 4
5
3 4
5
3 3 Fold the waistbands open so that the right sides of both are
facing up and fold the seam allowance over towards the
waistband with the overlocked bottom. At 2 mm from the
seam, sew through all layers of the overlocked waistband.
5 5
4 4
Pin and sew the remaining raw edge of the waistband to
the top of the trousers with right sides together and with
the corresponding nicks matching. There should be 1 cm
of seam allowance left on each side of the CF.
#Billie 14/18
First, open the waistband all the way out. Now, fold it in
half lengthwise so that the right sides of both waistbands
are facing.
Sew the short ends closed and trim the corners. Next, turn
waistband the right way out.
Pin the waistband into place along the right side of the
trousers and stitch in the ditch along the seam.
7
Sew the snap on at the indicated place or make a horizontal
buttonhole in the waistband RF and sew the button on the
waistband LF.
#Billie 15/18
8
2
Finish the hem with overlock stitching.
1
Press the hem allowance over to the V notch.
2
Sew the hem allowance into place.
#Billie 16/18
pattern pieces & seam allowances (in cm)
To sew the garment as described in the instructions, you need to draw the illustrated
seam allowances around the paper pattern pieces before cutting them out.
1 1
1 4
1 1 1
1 1
3 1 5 0 1. front: 2x
1 1 2. back: 2x
1
1 0
3. RF waistband: 2x
0 0 7 0 4. LF waistband: 2x
1 5. waistband facing back: 2x on fabric fold
0 6. pocket: 4x*
7. fly LF: 1x on fabric fold
1 2
* If you're using a thick fabric, cut 2 of the 4 pocket pieces
(= the inner pocket bags) out of lining material in a light-
1 1 1 1 weight cotton.
0
6
0 RTANT
P O
IM
The pieces
0 highlighted in light
yellow have iron-on
interfacing attached
to the wrong side.
3 3
#Billie 17/18
fabric layout for fabrics 140 cm wide
Before we begin sewing, make sure to transfer all markings onto your fabric:
• Mark the position of the snap or button by hand with basting thread ( ) by
basting through the middle of the ( ).
• Mark the end of the dart/dart equivalent and the zip by hand with basting
thread ( ) by basting through the middle of the ( ).
Mark the following important points on the outline of the pattern:
• Nick the pattern paper and fabric at the places where a single vertical line (I)
and double vertical lines (II) are indicated.
• Cut a notch out of the fabric at a V notch or on the finished hemline.
• Cut a notch out of the pieces that lie on the fabric fold to mark the middle of
these pieces.
32 - 44 FABRIC FOLD
5 5 7
3
4
2
6
1
6
SELVEDGE
46 - 58
FABRIC FOLD
7 5 5
2 4
6
6 3
SELVEDGE
#Billie 18/18
