CHAPTER-4

SHORT BLOCK
 Objectives:-
 Analyze wear and damage to the cylinder block

 Cylinder block: inspection and servicing

 Select and perform the most appropriate repairs to the

block, crankshaft, and bearings

 Analyze wear and damage to the crankshaft and

bearings

 Pistons, rings, pins and connecting rods inspection and

service
 A short block consists of an engine block with a
crankshaft and piston/connecting rod assemblies
already fitted.

 Full block - A “full” or “complete” block consists

of a short block plus an oil pump, sump, cylinder
head, valve cover, camshaft and valve train
components, timing sprockets and chain (or belt)
and timing cover.
 Engine cylinder inspection and servicing
• Use your fingernail to feel if a ridge has formed at the
upper limit of ring travel (about 6 mm down from the top
of each cylinder).
• If carbon deposits have produced ridges, they must be
completely removed with a special tool called a ridge
reamer.

A ridge reamer is required to remove the ridge from the top of each cylinder – do this
before removing the pistons!
 Failure to remove the ridges before attempting to
remove the piston/connecting rod assemblies may result in
piston ring breakage

• Visually check the block for cracks, rust and corrosion.

• Check the cylinder bores for scuffing and scoring.
Measure the diameter of each cylinder at the top (just
under the ridge area), centre and bottom of the cylinder
bore, parallel to the crankshaft axis.

• Compare the results to the Specifications.

• After the cylinder ridges have been removed, turn the
engine upside-down so the crankshaft is facing up.

• Before the connecting rods are removed, check the side

play with feeler gauges. Slide them between the first
connecting rod and crankshaft web until no play is apparent.

• The side play is equal to the thickness of the feeler

gauge(s). If the side play exceeds the service limit, new
connecting rods will be required.
• Repeat the procedure for the remaining connecting rods.

Check the connecting rod side play

with a feeler gauge as shown
• Check the connecting rods and caps for
identification marks. If they aren’t plainly marked,
use a small centre-punch to make the appropriate
number of indentations on each rod and cap (1, 2,
3, etc., depending on the cylinder they’re
associated with).

 Mark the big-end bearing

caps in order from the front of
the engine to the rear (one
mark for the front cap, two for
the second one and so on)
• Loosen each of the connecting rod cap nuts/bolts a half-
turn at a time until they can be removed by hand.
Remove the No 1 connecting rod cap and bearing shell.
• Remove the bearing shell, and push the connecting
rod/piston assembly out through the top of the engine. Use
a wooden hammer handle to push on the upper bearing
surface in the connecting rod.
•If resistance is felt, double-check to make sure that all of the
ridge was removed from the cylinder.

To prevent damage to the crankshaft journals and cylinder walls, slip sections of rubber or
plastic hose over the rod bolts before removing the pistons
• Repeat the procedure for the remaining cylinders.
• After removal, reassemble the connecting rod
caps and bearing shells in their respective
connecting rods, and refit the cap nuts/bolts
finger-tight.
• Don’t separate the pistons from the connecting
rods
 Cylinder Walls Check
• As a first step in checking cylinder walls, wipe them
clean and examine them carefully for scored places
and spotty wear.
• Holding a droplight at the opposite end of the
cylinder from the eye will help in the examination.
• If scores or spots are found, you should refinish the
cylinder walls.
• Next, measure the cylinders for taper and oval
wear.
  Measuring the Bore
• Several methods
– Telescoping gauge
and micrometer
– Inside micrometer
– Cylinder dial bore
gauge

Measure the diameter of each

cylinder just under the wear ridge (A), at
the centre (B) and at the bottom (C)
 Telescoping gauge and
micrometer
Telescoping gauge measure
the diameter of the cylinder
bore at top , middle, and
bottom position with
telescoping gauge and then
the gauge is measured with a
micrometer to determine the
Measure the diameter with
bore size Telescoping gauge properly at the
center

The gauge is then measured with a

micrometer to determine the bore size
 Dial bore gauge
• Measure the diameter of
each cylinder at those
three positions and note
the readings

• As the dial indicator is

moved up and down in the
cylinder and turned from one
position to another, any
irregularities will cause the
needle to move.
• This will indicates the cylinder is out-of-round or tapered.
• The permissible amount of taper or out-of-roundness in a
cylinder varies with different engines

• Cylinder taper is the difference in the diameters measured

at the top of the cylinder and at the bottom of the
cylinder.

• It is caused by less lubricating oil at the top of the cylinder

and more oil splashing on the lower area of the cylinder.
• As a result, the top of the cylinder wears faster/larger than
the bottom, producing taper.
• Cylinder out-of-roundness is a difference in
cylinder diameter when measured front-to-rear
and side-to-side in the block.
• Piston thrust action makes the cylinder wear more
at right angles to the centerline of the crankshaft.
• Maximum allowable cylinder out-of-round is
typically 0.00005”.
 If the required precision measuring tools aren’t
available, the piston-to-cylinder clearances can be
obtained, though not quite as accurately, using
feeler gauges.
• To check the clearance, select a feeler gauge, and
slip it into the cylinder along with the matching
piston. The piston must be positioned exactly as it
normally would be.
• The feeler gauge must be between the piston and
cylinder on one of the thrust faces
• If it falls through or slides through easily, the clearance is
excessive, and a new piston will be required.
• If the piston binds at the lower end of the cylinder and is
loose toward the top, the cylinder is tapered.

• If tight spots are encountered as the piston/feeler gauge

is rotated in the cylinder, the cylinder is out-of round.
• Repeat the procedure for the remaining pistons and
cylinders.
• If the cylinder walls are badly scuffed or scored, or if
they’re out-of-round or tapered beyond the limits of
Specification, loss of compression, high oil consumption,
poor performance, and heavy carbon accumulations in the
cylinder will result.
 In such cases, to put the engine back into the
operating condition the cylinders have to be
refinished (i.e the cylinder must be rebored and
honed) at a machine shop and oversize pistons
and rings will be required.
 Deglazing the Cylinder Bore
• Deglazing is a process by which the surface of an
engine cylinder is roughened to create friction
between the moving parts and allow engine oil to
grip the sides of the cylinder.

Ball-type glaze breaker Spring-loaded glaze breaker

 Clean the Block of Grit
• Clean block after glaze breaking or honing
– Grit left will wear parts
– Clean with stiff brush and hot soapy water
• Brush can be used by hand or with air drill
• Check for cleanliness with clean cloth
 Honing After Boring
• Machine shop
–Bore cylinders to desired bore size
–Honing after boring provides better surface
for new rings.
–Must be fitted to the bores.
• After boring and honing
–Top of bore is chamfered by 1/16”
New rings enter cylinder without chipping
Prior to engine
reassembly, the cylinder
bores must be honed so
the new piston rings will
seat correctly and provide
the best possible
combustion chamber seal.

After honing the cylinder will

be smooth for the piston ring
  Sleeves
• Sleeves repair cracked or damaged cylinder
– Recommended interference fit: 0.0005 per inch
– Sleeve pressed into the bore inside diameter bored to
finished size.
finish
  Crankshaft

The throw is the measurement from the center of the crankshaft to

the center of the crankpin journal, which is used to determine the
stroke of an engine. The throw is equal to one-half the stroke. The
longer the throw, the greater the stroke, or distance, a piston travels.
• Before the crankshaft is removed, check the
endfloat. Mount a dial indicator with the stem in line
with the crankshaft and touching the nose of the
crankshaft, or one of its webs
• Push the crankshaft all the way to the rear, and zero
the dial indicator.
• Next, prise the crankshaft to the front as far as
possible, and check the reading on the dial indicator.
• The distance that it moves is the endfloat. If it’s
greater than the maximum endfloat check the
crankshaft thrust surfaces for wear. If no wear is
evident, new main bearings should correct the
endfloat.
• If a dial indicator isn’t available, feeler gauges can be used.
Identify the main bearing with the thrust flanges either side
of it - this is referred to as the “thrust” main bearing.
• Gently prise or push the crankshaft all the way to the front
of the engine. Slip feeler gauges between the crankshaft and
the front face of the thrust main bearing to determine the
clearance.

Checking crankshaft endfloat with a dial indicator

• Check the main bearing caps to see if they’re
marked to indicate their locations. They should be
numbered consecutively from the front of the
engine to the rear. If they aren’t, mark them with
number-stamping dies or a centre-punch

 Use a centre-punch or
number stamping dies to
mark the main bearing caps to
ensure refitting in their
original locations on the block
(make the punch marks near
one of the bolt heads)
 Check crankshaft for straightness
– Keep bearings in position order during disassembly
– Bent crank shaft indicated when one bearing wears
more than others
 Checking for cracks
– Ring counterweights with light tap of hammer
Dull or short sound wave indicates the crack
Measuring Crankshaft Main Bearing Journal Runout – Typical.
This Graphic For General Information Only
 Using a micrometer, measure the diameter of the
main and connecting rod journals, and compare the
results to Specifications
• By measuring the diameter at a number of points
around each journal’s circumference, you’ll be able to
determine whether or not the journal is out-of round.
• Take the measurement at each end of the journal,
near the crank webs, to determine if the journal is
tapered.
• If the crankshaft journals are damaged, tapered, out-
of-round or worn beyond the limits given in the
Specifications, have the crankshaft reground by a
machine shop.
 Be sure to use the correct-size bearing shells if the crankshaft
is reconditioned.
 Measure the diameter of each
crankshaft journal at several points
to detect taper and out-of-round
conditions
 Crankshaft and Bearing Wear
• Characteristics
– Main cause of short bearing life is dirt
– Journals wear out-of-round or become
tapered
– Rod journals exhibit taper wear due to
misalignment of connecting rod
– Thrust bearing wear and failure occur when
load is continuous
• Improper clutch adjustment
Fig :- engine block main journal seat and main bearings
Crankshaft - main bearing oil clearance check
• Before the crankshaft can be permanently fitted, the
main bearing oil clearance must be checked.

• Cut several pieces of the appropriate-size Plastigage

(they must be slightly shorter than the width of the main
bearings), and place one piece on each crankshaft main
bearing journal, parallel with the crankshaft centerline
• Clean the faces of the bearings in the caps, and refit the
caps in their respective positions.
• Starting with the centre main bearing and working out
toward the ends, progressively tighten the main bearing
cap bolts to the torque listed in the Specifications.
• Don’t rotate the crankshaft at any time during the
tightening operation.

• After tightening Remove the bolts and carefully lift off the
main bearing caps. Keep them in order.
 Don’t disturb the Plastigage or rotate the crankshaft.
• Compare the width of the crushed Plastigage on each
journal to the scale printed on the Plastigage envelope to
obtain the main bearing oil clearance with a soft-face
hammer to loosen them.
 Wider string: indicates less clearance
• Check the Specifications to make sure it’s correct.
• If the clearance is not as specified, the bearing shells may
be the wrong size (which means different ones will be
required).

• Carefully scrape all traces of the Plastigage material off

the main bearing journals and/or the bearing faces. Use
your fingernail or the edge of a credit card - don’t nick or
scratch the bearing faces.
Compare the width of the crushed Plastigage to the scale on the envelope to
determine the main bearing oil clearance (always take the measurement at the
widest point of the Plastigage); be sure to use the correct scale - standard and
metric ones are included
Crankshaft Journal Tolerance and Regrinding the Crankshaft
• Tolerance : it is a range of wear specifications
• Crankshaft : usually reground undersize

The main reason crankshaft grinding

is done because the crank wears
over time. Over thousands miles the
end play between the crankshaft
and the bearings increases. When
the “fit” between the bearings and
the crank isn't perfect it lowers oil
pressure and decreases lubricity.
 Engine Balancing Service
• Done by a machine shop or a balancing specialist
– Reciprocating parts: balanced to weigh approximately
the same amount
– Rotating parts: balanced by spinning on a balancing
machine
• Heavy counterweights
– Lightened by drilling
• Internal balancing
– Achieved by drilling holes on the counterweights
There are a number of reasons why a crankshaft may become unbalanced including:
Manufacture error for the crankshaft. Fitting new flywheel and clutch covers which
aren't balanced correctly. Overheating of the crankshaft due to a lack of lubrication
causing distortion.
  Pistons/connecting rods
• Before the inspection process can be carried out, the
piston/connecting rod assemblies must be cleaned and the
original piston rings removed from the pistons.
Note: Always use new piston rings when the engine is
reassembled.
• Using a piston ring refitting tool, carefully remove the rings
from the pistons. Be careful not to nick or gouge the pistons
in the process

 Removing the compression rings with

a ring expander - note the mark
(arrowed) facing up
• Use a piston ring groove cleaning tool to remove carbon
deposits from the ring grooves. Be careful to remove only
the carbon deposits - don’t remove any metal, and do not
scratch the sides of the ring grooves

The piston ring grooves can be cleaned If a groove cleaning tool isn’t available,
with a special tool, as shown here a piece broken off the old ring will do
the job, but protect your hands - piston
rings can be sharp
  Piston Service
• Piston wear
– Scuffing: caused by excessive heat

Damaged piston heads and walls

• Carefully inspect each piston for cracks around the skirt,
at the pin bosses, and at the ring lands.

• Measure the piston ring side clearance by laying a new

piston ring in each ring groove and slipping a feeler gauge
in beside it

• Check the clearance at three or four locations around

each groove.
 Be sure to use the correct ring for each groove - they are
different.

• If the side clearance is greater than the Specifications,

new pistons will have to be used.
Check the ring side clearance with a feeler gauge at several points
around the groove
 Check the piston-to-bore clearance by measuring
the bore and the piston diameter
• Make sure the pistons and bores are correctly
matched.
• Subtract the piston diameter from the bore diameter
to obtain the clearance.
 If it’s greater than specified, the block will have to be rebored, and new over
size pistons and rings fitted.

Measure the piston diameter at a 90-degree angle to the gudgeon pin, at the same height as the gudgeon pin
 Piston rings Service
• Causes of piston ring wear
– Leftover honing grit
– Damaged air cleaner
– Contaminated oil fill funnel
– Lack of lubrication
• Check ring end gap
• Before fitting the new piston rings, the ring end gaps must
be checked. It’s assumed that the piston ring side
clearance has been checked and verified

• To measure the end gap, slip feeler gauges between the

ends of the ring until a gauge equal to the gap width is
found

• The feeler gauge should slide between the ring ends with
a slight amount of drag. Compare the measurement to
Specifications.
– If the gap is larger or smaller than specified, double-check to
make sure you have the correct rings before proceeding.
• If the gap is too small, it must be enlarged, or the ring
ends may come in contact with each other during engine
operation, which can cause serious damage to the
engine.
– The end gap can be increased by filing the ring ends very
carefully with a fine file.
• Once the ring end gaps have been
checked/corrected, the rings can be fitted on the
pistons
When checking piston ring end gap,
the ring must be square in the cylinder With the ring square in the cylinder,
bore (this is done by pushing the ring measure the end gap with a feeler gauge
down with the top of a piston as shown)

If the end gap is too small, clamp a file in a vice,

and file the ring ends (from the outside in only) to
enlarge the gap slightly
  Installing Rings on Pistons
• First
– Install oil rings
• Second
– Install the second compression ring
• Third
– Install the top compression ring

Oil ring
  Oil Ring Installation
• Most automobiles use three-piece oil control rings
• The oil control ring (lowest one on the piston) is
usually fitted first. It’s normally composed of
three separate components.
• Slip the spacer/expander into the groove refit the
lower side rail.
• Don’t use a piston ring refitting tool on the oil ring
side rails, as they may be damaged.
• Next, refit the upper side rail in the same manner.
• After the three oil ring components have been fitted, check
to make sure that both the upper and lower side rails can be
turned smoothly in the ring groove.
 The middle ring is fitted next. Use a ring expander to install
compression rings

Note: Always follow the instructions printed on the ring

package or box - Do not mix up the top and middle rings,
as they have different cross-sections.

• Refit the top ring in the same manner. Make sure the
mark is facing upwards
Refitting the spacer/expander in the
DO NOT use a piston ring refitting
oil control ring groove
tool when refitting the oil ring side rails
  Connecting Rod Service
When we insert a new bushing, be sure that ..
- The bore is clean
- The oil holes in the bushing and the oil passages in the rod are
aligned.
- To obtain proper clearance, sometimes you will need to ream a
piston pin bushing after it has been installed.
.
Quiz-1
1, what is cylinder tapper and out-of-roundness?

2, what causes can result in a piston ring wear?

3, how can we measure the crank shaft bearing

oil-clearance?
4, using what methods and instruments can we
measure the cylinder bore diameter?