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EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

SPAIN
E Y E W I T N E S S T R AV E L

SPAIN
 CONTENTS
HOW TO USE THIS
GUIDE 6

PROJECT EDITOR Nick Inman

ART EDITORS Jaki Grosvenor, Janis Utton
EDITORS Catherine Day, Lesley McCave, Seán O’Connell
DESIGNERS Susan Blackburn, Dawn Davies-Cook,
Joy Fitzsimmons, Helen Westwood
MAIN CONTRIBUTORS
John Ardagh, David Baird, Mary-Ann Gallagher, Vicky Hayward,
Adam Hopkins, Lindsay Hunt, Nick Inman, Paul Richardson,
Martin Symington, Nigel Tisdall, Roger Williams
PHOTOGRAPHERS King Alfonso X the Learned
Max Alexander, Joe Cornish, Neil Lukas, Neil Mersh,
John Miller, Kim Sayer, Linda Whitwam, Peter Wilson
ILLUSTRATORS
INTRODUCING
Stephen Conlin, Gary Cross, Richard Draper, Isidoro González-Adalid SPAIN
Cabezas (Acanto Arquitectura y Urbanismo S.L.), Claire Littlejohn,
Maltings Partnership, Chris Orr & Assocs, John Woodcock DISCOVERING
Reproduced by Colourscan (Singapore) SPAIN 10
Printed and bound by South China Printing Co. Ltd, China
First American Edition, 1996 PUTTING SPAIN ON
11 12 13 14 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Published in the United States by DK Publishing, THE MAP 14
375 Hudson Street New York, New York 10014
Reprinted with revisions 1997, 1999, 2000, 2001, A PORTRAIT
2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011
OF SPAIN 18
Copyright 1996, 2011 © Dorling Kindersley Limited, London
A Penguin Company
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. WITHOUT LIMITING THE RIGHTS UNDER COPYRIGHT
SPAIN THROUGH
RESERVED ABOVE, NO PART OF THIS PUBLICATION MAY BE REPRODUCED, STORED THE YEAR 40
IN, OR INTRODUCED INTO A RETRIEVAL SYSTEM, OR TRANSMITTED IN ANY FORM
OR BY ANY MEANS (ELECTRONIC, MECHANICAL, PHOTOCOPYING, RECORDING, OR
OTHERWISE), WITHOUT THE PRIOR WRITTEN PERMISSION OF BOTH THE COPYRIGHT
OWNER AND THE ABOVE PUBLISHER OF THIS BOOK.
THE HISTORY
PUBLISHED IN GREAT BRITAIN BY DORLING KINDERSLEY LIMITED. OF SPAIN 46
A CATALOGING RECORD FOR THIS BOOK IS AVAILABLE
FROM THE LIBRARY OF CONGRESS.
ISSN 1542-1554 NORTHERN SPAIN
ISBN 978-0-75666-950-8
FLOORS ARE REFERRED TO THROUGHOUT IN ACCORDANCE WITH
EUROPEAN USAGE; IE THE “FIRST FLOOR” IS ONE FLOOR UP. INTRODUCING
Front cover main image: Castle,Velez Blanco village, Almería, NORTHERN SPAIN 74
Southern Spain
GALICIA 84

ASTURIAS AND
CANTABRIA 100

THE BASQUE
The information in this COUNTRY, NAVARRA
DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly. AND LA RIOJA 114
Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date
as possible at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such
as telephone numbers, prices, opening hours, gallery hanging
arrangements and travel information, are liable to change. The
BARCELONA
publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising
from the use of this book, nor for any material on third-party INTRODUCING
websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in this book
will be a suitable source of travel information. We value the views BARCELONA 138
and suggestions of our readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher,
DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL, Great
Britain, or email: [email protected].
OLD TOWN 142

Previous pages: Pilgrimage of the Virgin of the Bridges, Belalcázar, near Córdoba in Andalusia
 EIXAMPLE 158

MONTJUÏC 168

FURTHER AFIELD 174

BARCELONA STREET
FINDER 179
Wine grapes growing in La Mancha
SHOPPING AND
ENTERTAINMENT IN
BARCELONA 186 MADRID PROVINCE 326 THE BALEARIC
ISLANDS 506
EASTERN SPAIN CENTRAL SPAIN
THE CANARY
INTRODUCING ISLANDS 528
INTRODUCING
CENTRAL SPAIN 336
EASTERN SPAIN 198
TRAVELLERS’
CASTILLA Y LEÓN 346 NEEDS
CATALONIA 206
CASTILLA-LA WHERE TO STAY 554
ARAGÓN 226
MANCHA 378
VALENCIA AND RESTAURANTS AND
EXTREMADURA 400 BARS 602
MURCIA 242
SOUTHERN SPAIN SHOPPING 654

INTRODUCING ENTERTAINMENT 656

SOUTHERN SPAIN 416
OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES
SEVILLE 426 AND SPECIALIST
HOLIDAYS 658
SEVILLE STREET
FINDER 447 SURVIVAL GUIDE
Statue of Alfonso XII, Madrid SHOPPING AND PRACTICAL
ENTERTAINMENT IN INFORMATION 664
MADRID SEVILLE 454
TRAVEL INFORMATION
INTRODUCING ANDALUSIA 458 674
MADRID 266
SPAIN’S ISLANDS PHRASE BOOK 719
OLD MADRID 268
INTRODUCING SPAIN’S
BOURBON MADRID 282 ISLANDS 504

FURTHER AFIELD 300 Iglesia de Santa

María del
MADRID STREET Naranco in
Asturias
FINDER 307

SHOPPING AND
ENTERTAINMENT IN
MADRID 316
6 H O W T O U S E T H I S G U I D E

HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

T his guide helps you to get the
most from your visit to Spain. It
provides detailed practical infor-
mation and expert recommendations.
Introducing Spain maps the country
important sights, using maps, photo-
graphs and illustrations. Features cover
topics from food and wine to fiestas
and beaches. Restaurant and hotel
recommendations can be found in
and sets it in its historical and cultural Travellers’ Needs. The Survival Guide
context. The five regional sections, has tips on everything from transport
plus Barcelona and Madrid, describe to using the telephone system.

BARCELONA, MADRID     


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INTRODUCING
SPAIN

DISCOVERING SPAIN 1013

PUTTING SPAIN ON THE MAP 1417
A PORTRAIT OF SPAIN 1839
SPAIN THROUGH THE YEAR 4045
THE HISTORY OF SPAIN 4671
10 I N T R O D U C I N G S PA I N

DISCOVERING SPAIN
F ew countries offer more
choice to the visitor than
Spain, with its lush
forests and wild mountain
peaks, its busy cities
want from a trip to Spain amid
all this variety, you need to
know where to look. These
pages offer an at-a-glance
guide on where to go, with
crammed with great art and the different characteristics
architecture and the endless of each region, city or island
stretch of laid-back beach A decorative group explained and the
resorts. To find out what you ceramic plate main sights highlighted.

long, heavily indented coast- hikers. Prehistory and history

line. One stretch of this, are other regional fortes. The
the Rías Baixas (see p95), most famous of many caves
has just the right blend of painted by early humans
beaches, low-key holiday are those of Altamira (see
resorts and scenery. Inland, p112). The exquisite, pre-
Galicia has hills, meadows, Romanesque churches of
forests, monasteries and Oviedo (see pp106–7) and
handsome old towns where the town of Santillana del
time seems slowed down Mar (see p112), seemingly
and you can be sure to get frozen in the Middle Ages,
away from the crowds. are also worth a visit.
Finisterre beach, Galicia

CANTABRIA AND
GALICIA ASTURIAS

• Verdant landscapes • Picos de Europa mountains

• Santiago de Compostela • Enigmatic cave art
• Dramatic coastlines • Ancient churches of Oviedo
• Rural idylls • Medieval towns

The northwest corner of These two regions form the

Spain is the wettest and, central part of the green
because of this, also the north coast. Both are
greenest region of the composed of inland uplands
country. The medieval city descending to a gentle
of Santiago de Compostela coastline punctuated by
(see pp90–93) draws large pretty bays and good The stunning titanium façade of
numbers of visitors as it beaches. The two regions Museo Guggenheim, Bilbao
stands at the end of a share Spain’s most approach-
legendary pilgrimage route able mountain range, the
and centres on an awe- Picos de Europa (see THE BASQUE COUNTRY,
inspiring cathedral. The pp108–109), whose canyons NAVARRA AND LA RIOJA
other great attraction is the and summits are a draw for
• Museo Guggenheim
• San Sebastián beaches
• Pamplona bullrunning
• Superb Riojan wines

The futuristic Museo

Guggenheim (see pp120–21)
has put the city of Bilbao on
the map and introduced the
Basque Country to a wealth
of new visitors, and its two
neighbouring regions attract
tourists in search of rural
Spain. The pride of the
Basque’s short coast is San
Sebastián (see p122), a well-
Parque Nacional de los Picos de Europa, Cantabria established resort on an

Rooftops, Fortna Lux, Mallorca (1969) by Frederick Gore

 D I S C O V E R I N G S PA I N 11

almost perfectly rounded

bay. Navarra is made up of
picturesque green Pyrenean
foothills and valleys in the
north and charming little
towns, castles and Roman-
esque churches in the south.
Its capital, Pamplona (see
pp132–3) – scene of the
famous bullrunning festival
in July – stands in the
middle. For wine-lovers, La
Rioja, the smallest region of
Spain, is the place to visit.

BARCELONA
The sculptured rooftop chimneys of Casa Milà (“La Pedrera”), Barcelona
• Gaudí and Modernisme
• Contemporary art around the Roman city of
• Medieval streets Tarragona (see pp224–5), VALENCIA AND MURCIA
• Exhilarating nightlife also has popular resorts.
Catalonia also has two of • City of Arts and Sciences
For most people, Barcelona Spain’s greatest monasteries: • Costa Blanca beaches
is synonymous with Modern- Poblet (see pp222–3) and • Baroque architecture
isme, and in particular the Montserrat (see pp218–9). • Spectacular fiestas
enchanting buildings of The city of Figueres (see
Antoni Gaudí. It is also famed p215) is the birthplace of These two regions take up
for its innovation and design, Surrealist artist Salvador Dalí, the middle of Spain’s Medi-
and leads Spain in contem- and many of his works can terranean coast and enjoy a
porary art and architecture. be viewed here. pleasant climate. Valencia city
At the heart of this city of is drawing increasing
cutting-edge creativity is the numbers of visitors to its
Gothic Quarter, with its well ARAGÓN gleaming white City of
preserved medieval arch- Arts and Sciences (see
itecture. Barcelona’s draw is • Pyrenean grandeur p253). The Costa Blanca,
also in its shops, bars, clubs • Ordesa National Park a popular coastline, has
and street life – any visit has • San Juan de la Peña a range of resorts, from
to include a stroll down Las • Mudéjar architecture the brash Benidorm (see
Ramblas (see pp150–51). p260) to quieter places
Barcelona can easily be Aragón is one of the like Xàbia (see p255).
combined with a beach least known regions of The region of Murcia
holiday in one of the resorts Spain, but rewarding is distinguished by its
a short way north or south to explore. Its sights Baroque architecture
Sculpture in
of the city. are grouped to the Jaca cathedral,
and the coastal lagoon
north and south, with Aragón of Mar Menor (see
Zaragoza (see pp236–7), p262). Both regions
CATALONIA the country’s fifth largest city, have spectacular fiestas, such
in the centre. The Pyrenees as the lively Fallas festival
• Cava wine region and their foothills hold most in Valencia (see p255).
• Beautiful beaches appeal, particularly the awe-
• Poblet and Montserrat some canyons and cliffs of
• Dalí masterpieces the Ordesa National Park
(see pp232–3). Also worth
This self-assured region with seeking out is the secluded
its own language stretches monastery of San Juan de
from the Pyrenees in the la Peña (see p234). The
north to the rice fields of mountains are popular for
the Ebro delta in the south, walking, skiing and a range
taking in vineyards which of other sports.
produce the famous cava Teruel province in the south
sparkling wine. The Costa is known for its Mudéjar
Brava (see p217), a rugged architecture, along with
mix of cliffs and bays, is its several historic towns, most
most attractive strip of coast notably Albarracín (see p241) A stretch of golden beach in Calp,
but the Costa Daurada, and Teruel (see pp240–41). Costa Blanca
12 D I S C O V E R I N G S PA I N

EXTREMADURA

• Birds and wildflowers

• Roman theatre at Mérida
• Mansions of Cáceres
• Monastery of Guadalupe

Although not a huge tourist

destination, Extremadura has
a lot to offer any visitor.
With the lowest population
density of any region, it has
a corresponding richness in
The imposing San Lorenzo de El Escorial palace, Madrid province wildlife – in spring and
summer the countryside is
(see pp358–61); Segovia (see full of wildflowers and storks
MADRID pp364–5) with its towering can be seen nesting on
Roman aqueduct and rooftops and church spires.
• World famous art museums exquisite royal castle; Burgos Extremadura also has a
• Royal residences (see pp370–73) built around formidable collection of
• Historic squares and streets a Gothic cathedral; León historic monuments, such as
• Vibrant nightlife (see pp353–5), its cathedral the Roman theatre at Mérida
famous for its stained-glass (see pp410–11), which still
Spain’s capital has three windows; and Ávila (see hosts performances today,
of the world’s greatest pp362–3), ringed by and the cluster of Renaiss-
art museums within medieval walls. En ance mansions at Cáceres
an easy stroll of route between these (see pp408–9). The other
each other: the cities there are vast place to see is Guadalupe
Museo del Prado empty tracts of land monastery (see pp406–7),
(see pp292 –5), the but you are rarely out though a long trek up
Thyssen-Bornemisza of sight of a castle, a winding mountain roads
(see pp288–9) and Detail, Salamanca distinguishing feature is required to get to it.
the Centro Reina University of this part of Spain.
Sofia (see pp298–9).
Art can also be seen SEVILLE
in Madrid’s three magnificent CASTILLA-LA MANCHA
royal palaces, two of them – • Cathedral and La Giralda
the Escorial (see pp330–31) • Historic architecture • Moorish Real Alcázar
and Aranjuez (see p333) – • Dramatically sited towns • Bars and bullfighting
involving pleasurable day • Don Quixote’s windmills • Semana Santa (Easter Week)
trips into nearby countryside.
The medieval part of the This region is not an obvious This lively southern city
city, meanwhile, is a dense choice for many tourists but on the Guadalquivir River
tangle of streets around two it does have one of Spain’s combines the glories of
squares dotted with many most attractive cities – Toledo Moorish and Christian Spain
attractive bars and cafés. (see pp388–91), crammed in its great cathedral and
Madrid is known for its with interesting architecture
buzzing nightlife, and is also from the Middle Ages. Two
a great place to come for the unusually sited towns also
finest in Spanish cuisine. worth a visit are Cuenca
(see pp384–5) perched on a
ravine and Alcalá del Júcar
CASTILLA Y LEÓN (see p395), where some of
the houses have been
• Historic cities extended into the soft rock
• Gothic cathedral of Burgos of the chalky hills into which
• Defiant castles they are built.
Although daunting at first,
Distances between sights can the plains of La Mancha
be daunting in the country’s (see pp379–99), well known
largest region, but five for Spain’s most famous
historic cities reward the fictional character, Don
intrepid visitor: the Quixote, has a certain charm
harmonious Renaissance in its quirky landscape of The parade of the Virgin during
university city of Salamanca windmills and castles. Semana Santa, Seville
 D I S C O V E R I N G S PA I N 13

La Giralda, its bell tower cathedral in the capital,

(see pp436–7), and in the Palma (see pp520–21).
lavishly decorated royal Despite its reputation for
palace of the Real Alcázar a busy nightlife, Ibiza (see
(see pp440–41). pp510–12) also has secluded
Visitors also flock to coves, and quiet countryside
Seville to relish the exciting dotted with pretty villlages.
atmosphere, particularly in Menorca (see pp522–3)
the whitewashed streets of boasts prehistoric monu-
the Santa Cruz quarter and, ments, handsome small
when there’s a fight on, in towns and a spectacular
the Plaza de Toros de la horse-riding fiesta (see p523).
Maestranza (see p430),
Spain’s most famous bullring.
Seville is even more THE CANARY ISLANDS
animated during the intense Coves d’Arta, Mallorca
celebrations of Semana • Subtropical vegetation
Santa (Holy Week) (see The superb Moorish • Volcanic landscapes
p431) and the passionate architecture of Granada’s • Beaches and watersports
April Fair that follows, when Alhambra Palace (see
the city hums to the sound pp490–91) and the Mezquita Most visitors are drawn to
of Sevillanas, its own brand in Cordoba (see pp480–81) the Canaries by their reliable
of flamenco. continue to dazzle visitors. subtropical warmth – despite
The region’s landscapes vary many of the beaches being
enormously from the wildlife composed of black sand. The
refuge of Doñana (see islands have a great contrast
pp464–5) to Europe’s only of scenery from luxuriant
desert in Almería (see p501). vegetation to spectacular
volcanic formations.
La Gomera, La Palma and
THE BALEARIC ISLANDS El Hierro (see pp532–3) are
small but with wonderful
• Beaches, cliffs and coves scenery making for good
• Pretty Ibizan villages hiking. Lanzarote (see
• Minorcan monuments pp548–51), a choice place
for beach holidays, is dry
This archipelago off Spain’s and still volcanically active.
eastern Mediterranean coast Fuerteventura (see pp546–7)
The Alhambra Palace, Granada has long been regarded as also has beautiful beaches
a holiday playground for but with a windy climate.
Europe. However, as well as Tenerife (see pp534–6) and
ANDALUSIA beaches, there is plenty of Gran Canaria (see pp542–5)
interest to discover. Mallorca offer the most variety, with
• Flamenco rhythms (see pp514–21), the largest northern coasts swathed
• Sun and sea island, has impressive in banana plantations and
• The Alhambra in Granada mountains and caves as lively tourist spots in the
• Doñana national park well as a splendid Gothic hot and sunny south.

Stretching from the Atlantic

to the Mediterranean across
the south of the Iberian
peninsula, this is Spain’s
second largest region and
easily the most varied. It
is the home to all things
“typically Spanish”: sherry
(see pp420–21), flamenco
(see pp424–5), guitars, tapas,
gypsies, bullfighting, white
towns and the Costa del Sol
(see pp472–3). Blazing
Mediterranean sunshine
makes it a good place for
beach holidays, but it is
not short of countryside or
grandiose monuments either. A cactus park in San Nicolás de Tolentino, Gran Canaria
14 I N T R O D U C I N G S PA I N

Plym

Port
sm
Putting Spain on the Map

outh

outh
Spain, in southwestern Europe, covers the greater part
of the Iberian Peninsula. The third largest country in
Europe, it includes two island groups: the Canaries in the Bay
Atlantic and the Balearics in the Mediterranean, and two
small territories in North Africa. Its southernmost point
of Biscay
faces Morocco across a strait,
making Spain a A Coruña 0

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 P U T T I N G S PA I N O N T H E M A P 15

z
di

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Spain’s Most THE CANARY ISLANDS

Cá

Cá
Southerly Islands Arrecife

This chain of seven

islands in the Atlantic Santa Cruz
de la Palma Puerto del
is 1,150 km (700 Puerto de Rosario
la Cruz
miles) southwest of Santa Cruz
de Tenerife
Las Palmas de
Cádiz and 150 km Gran Canaria
San
(70 miles) off Morocco. Sebastián
de la
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16 I N T R O D U C I N G S PA I N

Regional Spain
Spain has a population of 46 million and receives more than
58 million visitors a year. It covers an area of 504,780 sq km
(194,900 sq miles). Madrid is the largest city, followed by
Barcelona and Valencia. The country is dominated by a central
plateau drained by the Duero, Tagus (Tajo) and Guadiana
rivers. This book divides Spain into 15 areas, but officially it
has 17 independent regions called comunidades autónomas.

Ferrol 8 62 N64
2
AC
A Coruña 0) Gijón
4 (E 7 N634
C5 52 A6 N63 (E70
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(E7
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GETTING AROUND Due Soria

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flights and there is a shuttle A6

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service between Madrid and

01
6

Salamanca 10
(E80) Segovia N1
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Barcelona. The TALGO and Sigüenza
NI A1 (E5)

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M6 A2 N
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fast rail services and are N110 Ávila A6 20
( E8

backed up by regional and 630

Guadalajara
El Escorial
N

N4
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local rail networks. Some (E9
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A5
NV
motorways have expensive
NI

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tolls, but are fast. The Balearic

(E9

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01

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and Canary islands are (
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0 Talavera Cuenca
N63

Tajo de la Reina Toledo A3

served by regular ferries. (E9
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5)

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KEY Cádiz A7 (E
)
15

N3
(E

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Motorway (
A7
E5
)

Algeciras Gibraltar
Major road 0 kilometres 100

Minor road
0 miles 100
 P U T T I N G S PA I N O N T H E M A P 17

Eyewitness Spain KEY TO COLOUR CODING

Regions Northern Spain
Each of the chapters in this
Galicia
guide has a colour code.
The chapters are grouped Asturias and Cantabria
into five sections: Northern, The Basque Country, Navarra
Eastern, Central and and La Rioja
Southern Spain and Spain’s Eastern Spain
Islands; and two cities:
Barcelona
Madrid and Barcelona.
Catalonia

Aragón

Donostia Valencia and Murcia

(San Sebastián)
Central Spain
A15

Madrid
5
A1 N13
5
Iruña Castilla y León
(Pamplona)
N330

Castilla-La Mancha
N230

N240
A15

N2
60
(E7)

N260 N260
Extremadura
N330
A1

5 La Seu N15 N260

2 Southern Spain
27
8

A1 Huesca Figueres
d'Urgell
C14

125 )
13

NA (E7 3
N12
N1

3
A6 Tudel A2 C2 Seville
8 6 Girona
N2 3

AP
(E Vic
80 68 6
C2
0

5)

NII

4) Andalusia
N2

E1

Manresa (
C17
40

Zaragoza NII A2 A P7
A7
C1

9 0) Lleida
A2 AP2 (E90) Spain’s Islands
6

2 (E
(E

A
NII
9)

A2 A
)
30

P2 (E
15

90) (E
N3

Ebr
N232

N2
34 o A7 A
P7
C32 Barcelona The Balearic Islands
1 1
N2 Reus
N42
0 The Canary Islands
5)

Tarragona
E1
7(

N2 1
11 N21
AP
A7

Tortosa
20
N4
N234

A1702

N2
32
Teruel CV15
THE BALEARIC
30

CV
ISLANDS
N3

19
20

CV1

0
Ciutadella
N4

C721 Menorca
N2
34

Castelló de la Plana
( E A P7

Mallorca Maó
)

13
15
7
N3

CV A C
Palma de
C7

35 7 12
30

Mallorca 27
Sagunt PM
T ur

A3 (E90 a Manacor
i

A3 (E901) 1)
Valencia PM
14

1 C7
17
N330

C7
0
N43

Ibiza Cabrera
A 7 AP

C733

30
N430 N4 C73 Eivissa (Ibiza)
( E1 1
7

5)
A30

Almansa
N340
N33

Alcoi
5)

( E1
0A

7
N34
4 AP Benidorm Formentera
A7
31

Alacant
(Alicante)
(E1
5) THE CANARY ISLANDS Lanzarote
A3
Se

P7 Elx
0
gu

A
A7
ra

)
15 Murcia Arrecife
(E
A7
3 4 La Palma 83
N3

rca N
0
01

Santa Cruz Fuerteventura

C32

de la Palma
832

Puerto del
0

Puerto de
11

Cartagena
61

la Cruz TF5 Santa Cruz Rosario

de Tenerife
0
C8 2
T F1

La Gomera Tenerife 0 Las Palmas

20
GC

de Gran Canaria
1

San Sebastián
GC

de la Gomera
Gran Canaria
El Hierro Maspalomas
Valverde

Spain’s Atlantic Territories

The Canary Islands, in the Atlantic Ocean off the coast of Africa, are an
integral part of Spain. They are one hour behind the rest of the country.
 I N T R O D U C I N G S PA I N 19

A P O R T R A I T O F S PA I N

T
he familiar images of Spain – flamenco dancing, bullfighting,
tapas bars and solemn Easter processions – do no more than
hint at the diversity of the country. Spain has four official
languages, two major cities of almost equal importance and a greater
range of landscapes than any other European country. These remark-
able contrasts make Spain an endlessly fascinating country to visit.
Separated from the rest of Europe built it was easier to move goods
by the Pyrenees, Spain reaches from Barcelona to South America
south to the coast of North Africa. It than to Madrid.
has both Atlantic and Mediterranean In early times, Spain was a coveted
coastlines, and includes two prize for foreign conquerors includ-
archipelagos – the Balearics ing the Phoenicians and the Romans.
and the Canary Islands. During the Middle Ages, much of it
The climate and landscape was ruled by the Moors, who
vary from snow-capped arrived from North Africa in the
peaks in the Pyrenees, 8th century. It was reconquered
through the green meadows by Christian forces, and unified
of Galicia and the orange at the end of the 15th century.
groves of Valencia, to the A succession of rulers tried to
desert of Almería. Madrid Statue of Don Quixote and impose a common culture,
is the highest capital in Sancho Panza, Madrid but Spain remains as cultur-
Europe, and Spain its ally diverse as ever. Several
most mountainous country after regions have maintained a strong
Switzerland and Austria. The innu- sense of their own independent identi-
merable sierras have always hindered ties. Many Basques and Catalans, in par-
communications. Until railways were ticular, do not consider themselves to

Landscape with a solitary cork tree near Albacete in Castilla-La Mancha

The outlandishly dressed Peliqueiros who take to the streets during Carnival in Laza, Galicia
20 I N T R O D U C I N G S PA I N

Peñafiel Castle in the Duero valley (Castilla y León), built between the 10th and 13th centuries

be Spanish. Madrid may be the nomi- of their social life, rather than let them-
nal capital, but it is closely rivalled selves be ruled by the clock. The day
in commerce, the arts and sport by is long in Spain and Spanish has a
Barcelona, the capital city of Catalonia. word, madrugada, for the
time between midnight and
THE SPANISH WAY OF LIFE dawn, when city streets
The inhabitants of this very var- are often still lively.
ied country have few things Spaniards are highly
in common except for a gregarious. In many places
natural sociability and a people still go out in the
zest for living. Spaniards evening for the paseo,
commonly put as much when the streets are crowd-
energy into enjoying life ed with strollers. Eating is
as they do into their invariably communal and
“Vinegar Face” in Pamplona’s
work. The stereotypical Los Sanfermines fiesta big groups often meet
“mañana” (leave every- up for tapas or dinner.
thing until tomorrow) is a myth, but Not surprisingly, Spain has more bars
time is flexible in Spain and many peo- and restaurants per head than any other
ple bend their work to fit the demands country in Europe.
Underpinning Spanish society is the
extended family. Traditionally, the
state in Spain has been very inefficient
at providing public services – although
this has improved in the last 20 years.
The Spanish have therefore always
relied on their families and personal
connections, rather than institutions,
to find work or seek assistance in a cri-
sis. This attitude has sometimes led to
a disregard for general interests – such
as the environment – when they have
conflicted with private ones.
Most Spaniards place their family at
the centre of their lives. Three genera-
tions may live together under one roof,
Tables outside a café in Madrid’s Plaza Mayor or at least see each other often. Even
 A P O R T R A I T O F S PA I N 21

lifelong city-dwellers refer fondly

to their pueblo – the town or vil-
lage where their family comes
from and where they return
whenever they can. Children are
adored in Spain and, conse-
quently, great importance is
attached to education. The fam-
ily in Spain, however, is under
strain as couples increasingly opt
for a higher income
and better lifestyle The windmills and castle above Consuegra, La Mancha
rather than a large family. fiestas, which are enthusiastically
One of the most striking maintained in modern Spain.
transformations in mod-
ern Spain has been in SPORT AND THE ARTS
the birth rate, from Spanish cultural life has been reinvigo-
one of the highest rated in recent years. Spanish-made
in Europe, at 2.72 films – notably those of cult directors
children for every Pedro Almodóvar and Alejandro
Virgin of Guadalupe
in Extremadura woman in 1975, to Amenábar – have been able to
1.1 children for compete with Hollywood for
every woman in 2009. audiences, and the actress Penélope
Catholicism is still a pervasive influ- Cruz won an Oscar in 2009. The
ence over Spanish society, although overall level of reading has risen, and
church attendance among those contemporary literature has steadily
under 35 has declined in recent years gained a wider readership. The per-
to below 10 per cent. The images of forming arts have been restricted by a
saints watch over some shops, bars lack of facilities, but recent major
and lorry drivers’ cabs. Church feast investments have provided new
days are marked by countless traditional venues, regional arts centres and new

A matador plays a bull in the Plaza de Toros de la Maestranza, Seville

22 I N T R O D U C I N G S PA I N

regional TV stations thanks to digital

platforms. Sports are one of the
mainstays of TV programming. Spanish
sportsmen and women have been very
successful – for example, tennis player
Rafael Nadal and Formula 1 driver
Fernando Alonso. Such role models
have encouraged participation in sport
and more facilities have been provided
to meet this demand. Most popular are
basketball and, above all, soccer.
Bullfighting has enjoyed renewed
popularity since the late 1980s. For
aficionados, a corrida is a unique occa-
sion that provides a link to Spain’s roots,
and the noise, colour and argumentative
attitude of the crowd are as much of an
attraction as the bullfight itself.
Poster for a Pedro Almodóvar film

symphony orchestras. The country has SPAIN TODAY

produced many remarkable opera In the last 60 years Spain has under-
singers, including Montserrat Caballé, gone more social change than any-
Plácido Domingo and José Carreras. where else in western Europe. Until
Spain has also excelled in design, the 1950s, Spain was predominantly a
particularly evident in the interior poor, rural country, in which only 37
furnishings shops of Barcelona. per cent of the population lived in
Spaniards are the most avid TV- towns of over 10,000 people. By the
watchers in Europe after the British. 1990s, the figure was 65 per cent. As
There are two state-owned TV people flooded into towns and cities
channels in Spain, as well as a growing many rural areas became depopulated.
number of private channels and The 1960s saw the beginning of spec-

A farmer with his crop of maize hanging to dry on the outside of his house in the hills of Alicante
 A P O R T R A I T O F S PA I N 23

Basque terrorist group

ETA is a constant thorn
in the side of Spanish
democracy.
During the 1980s Spain
enjoyed an economic
boom as service industries
and manufacturing
expanded. Even so, GDP
remains below the
European Union average,
and growth halted
in 2009’s economic
Beach near Tossa de Mar on the Costa Brava
downturn. Agriculture is
tacular economic growth, partly due an important industry but while it is
to a burgeoning tourist industry. In highly developed in some regions, it is
that decade, car ownership increased inefficient in others. Tourism provides
from 1 in 100 to 1 in 10. approximately ten per cent
After the death of dictator of the country’s earnings.
General Franco in 1975 Most tourists still
Spain became a consti- come for beaches. But
tutional monarchy under increasingly, foreign
King Juan Carlos I. The visitors are drawn by
post-Franco era, up until Spain’s rich cultural
the mid-1990s, was domi- heritage and spectacular
nated by the Socialist Prime King Juan Carlos I and countryside. Anyone
Queen Sofía
Minister Felipe González. As who knows this country,
well as presiding over major improve- however, will tell you that it is the
ments in roads, education and health Spanish people’s capacity to enjoy life to
services, the Socialists increased Spain’s the full that is Spain’s biggest attraction.
international standing. The PSOE could
not continue forever, however, and in
1996 revelations of a series of scandals
lost the PSOE the election. Spain joined
the European Community in 1986, trig-
gering a spectacular increase in the
country’s prosperity. The country’s for-
tunes seemed to peak in the extraordi-
nary year of 1992, when Barcelona
staged the Olympic Games and Seville
hosted a world fair, Expo ’92.
With the establishment of democracy,
the 17 autonomous regions of Spain
have acquired considerable powers.
Several have their own languages,
which are officially given equal
importance to Spanish (strictly called
Castilian). A significant number of
Basques favour independence, and the Demonstration for Catalan independence
24 I N T R O D U C I N G S PA I N

Architecture in Spain
Spain has always imported its styles of architecture:
Moorish from North Africa, Romanesque and Gothic
from France and Renaissance from Italy. Each style,
however, was interpreted in a distinctively Spanish
way, with sudden and strong contrasts between light
and shady areas; façades alternating between austerity
and extravagant decoration; and thick walls pierced
by few windows to lessen the impact of heat and
sunlight. Styles vary from region to region, reflecting
the division of Spain before unification. The key design
of a central patio surrounded by arcades has been a The 15th-century Casa de Conchas
strong feature of civil buildings since Moorish times. in Salamanca (see p361)

ROMANESQUE AND EARLIER MOORISH (8TH–15TH CENTURIES)

(8TH–13TH CENTURIES) The Moors (see pp52–3) reserved the most
Romanesque churches were mainly lavish decoration for the interior of buildings,
built in Catalonia and along the where ornate designs based on geometry,
pilgrim route to Santiago (see p83). calligraphy and plant motifs were created in
Their distinctive features include azulejos (tiles) or stucco. They made extensive
round arches, massive walls and use of the horsehoe arch, a feature inherited
few windows. Earlier churches were from the Visigoths
built in Pre-Romanesque (see p106) (see pp50–1). The
or Mozarabic (see p352) style. greatest surviving
works of Moorish
architecture (see
Round Multiple
pp422–3) are in
arch apses
Southern Spain.

The Salón de
Embajadores in the
Alhambra (see p490)
has exquisite
The Romanesque Sant Climent, Taüll (p201) Moorish decoration.

GOTHIC (12TH–16TH CENTURIES) Rose Tracery

Gothic was imported from France in the window
late 12th century. The round arch was Pointed Flying
replaced by the pointed arch which, arch buttress
because of its greater strength, allowed
for higher vaults and taller windows.
External buttresses were added to
prevent the walls of the nave from
Gothic arched leaning outwards. Carved decoration
window was at its most opulent in the Flam-
boyant Gothic style of the 15th century.
After the fall of Granada, Isabelline, a late Gothic
style, developed. Meanwhile, Moorish craftsmen
working in reconquered
areas created the highly
decorative hybrid
Christian-Islamic style
Mudéjar (see p55).

The nave of León Cathedral

(see pp354–5), built in the
13th century, is supported Sculptural decoration above the
by rib vaulting and is illu- doorways of León cathedral’s south front
minated by the finest display depicted biblical stories for the benefit of
of stained glass in Spain. the largely illiterate populace.
 A P O R T R A I T O F S PA I N 25

RENAISSANCE (16TH CENTURY)

Around 1500 a new style was introduced to Spain
by Italian craftsmen and Spanish artists who had
studied in Italy. The Renaissance was a revival of
the style of Ancient Rome. It is distinguished by
its sense of symmetry and the use of the round
arch, and Doric, Ionic and Corinthian columns.
Early Spanish Renaissance architecture is known
as Plateresque because its fine detail resembles The Palacio de las Cadenas in Úbeda (see
ornate silverwork (platero means silversmith). p497) has a severely Classical façade.
Medallions Classical Sculpted Round arch
columns parapet

The Hostal de San Marcos in León (see p353), one of Spain’s finest Plateresque buildings

BAROQUE (17TH–18TH CENTURIES)

Baroque was driven by a desire for drama and The ornamentation on
movement. Decoration became extravagant, with the Baroque façade of
exuberant sculpture and twisting columns. Although the Valladolid University (see
excessive Baroque style of Churrigueresque is named p366) is concentrated
after the Churriguera family of architects, it was their above the doorway.
successors who were its main exponents.
Finials Statues on parapet

The façade of the Museo de

Historia in Madrid (pp304–5)

MODERN (LATE 19TH CENTURY ONWARDS)

Modernisme (see pp140–1), a Catalan interpretation of Art Nouveau,
is seen at its best in Barcelona. Its architects experimented with a
highly original language of ornament. In recent decades, Spain has
seen an explosion of bold, functionalist architecture in which the
form of a building reflects its use and decoration is used sparingly.
Curving parapet Spiral Decorative
chimney ironwork

Torre de Picasso in Madrid

Casa Milà, in Barcelona

(see p165), was built in
1910 by Modernisme’s most
famous and best-loved
architect, Antoni Gaudí,
who drew much of his
inspiration from nature.
26 I N T R O D U C I N G S PA I N

Vernacular Architecture
As well as its cathedrals and palaces,
Spain has a great variety of charming
vernacular buildings. These have been
constructed by local craftsmen to meet the
practical needs of rural communities and
to take account of local climate conditions,
Window in
Navarra
with little reference to formal architectural
styles. Due to the high expense involved in
transporting raw materials, builders used whatever stone
or timber lay closest to hand. The three houses illustrat-
ed below incorporate the most common characteristics A cave church in Artenara (see
of village architecture seen in different parts of Spain. p545), on Gran Canaria

STONE HOUSE Supporting Large doors accommo- The walls are built of
The climate is wet in the north and pillar date carts and animals. irregularly shaped stones.
houses like this one in Carmona
(see p111), in Cantabria, are built
with overhanging eaves to shed the
rain. Wooden balconies catch the sun.

Family and farm

often share rural
houses. The ground
floor is used to stable
animals, or store
Detail of stonework tools and firewood.

TIMBER-FRAMED HOUSE Portico Gently sloping roof

Spain, in general, has few large trees
and wood is in short supply. Castilla y The verandah
León is one of the few regions where runs the length of
timber-framed houses, such as this one the building.
in Covarrubias (see p370), can be found.
Balcony
These houses are quick and cheap to
build. The timber frame is filled in with
a coarse plaster mixed from lime and In town squares,
sand, or adobe (bricks dried in the sun). upright struts of
timber supporting
The ends of the horizontal beams
beams supporting the were used to form
floorboards are visible. porticoes. A shady
Stone plinths below
space was created
upright timbers provide for people to meet,
Half-timbered wall protection from damp. talk and trade.

WHITEWASHED HOUSE Irregularly shapedhouses Few, small

Houses in the south of Spain – often are joined together. windows
built of baked clay – are regularly
whitewashed to deflect the sun’s Shallow-pitched roof
intense rays. Andalusia’s famous
white towns (see p468) exemplify
this attractive form of architecture.

Windows are
small and few in
number, and
deeply recessed, in
order to keep the
Clay-tiled roof interior cool. Whitewashed walls
 A P O R T R A I T O F S PA I N 27

THE PLAZA MAYOR

Almost every town in Spain centres on a Town hall
main square, the plaza mayor, like this (ayuntamiento)
one in Pedraza de la Sierra (see p365),
near Segovia. More than a market square, Medieval porticoes
it acts as a focus for local life. It is beneath the buildings
usually overlooked by the church, provided shade for
the town hall, shops and bars shops and markets.
and the mansions of
aristocratic
families.

Church

The square provides ample

A noble family’s mansion space for fiestas, concerts,
is distinguished by a coat of folk-dances, bullrunning and
arms carved on the façade. other public events.

RURAL ARCHITECTURE
A variety of distinctive build-
ings dots the countryside.
Where the rock is soft and
the climate hot, subterranean
dwellings have been excavat-
ed. Insulated from extremes
of temperature, they provide
a comfortable place to live.
Hórreos, granaries raised
on stone stilts to prevent rats
climbing up into the grain, are
a common sight in Galicia
(where they are stone-built) Cave houses in Guadix near Teito in Valle de Teverga in
and Asturias (where they are Granada (see p493) Asturias (see p105)
made of wood). In fields you
will often see shelters for live-
stock or for storing crops,
such as the teitos of Asturias.
Windmills provided power
in parts of Spain where there
was little running water but
plentiful wind, like La Mancha
and the Balearic Islands.
Almost everywhere in the
Spanish countryside you will
come across ermitas, isolated
chapels or shrines dedicated
to a local saint. An ermita
may be opened only on the Hórreo, a granary, on the Rías Windmill above Consuegra (see
patron saint’s feast day. Baixas (see p95) in Galicia p394) in La Mancha
28 I N T R O D U C I N G S PA I N

Farming in Spain
Spain’s varied geography and
climate have created a mosaic of
farming patterns ranging from
lush dairylands to stony hillsides where
goats graze. Land can be broadly divided
into secano, or dry cultivation (used for
olives, wheat and vines), and much smaller
Donkey in
Extremadura areas of regadío, irrigated land (planted
with citrus trees, rice and vegetables).
Farming in many parts is a family affair relying on
traditional, labour-intensive methods but it is
becoming increasingly mechanized.

Plains of cereals make up much of the

MADRID
farmland of the central meseta of Spain.
Wheat is grown in better-watered, more
fertile western areas; barley is grown in
the drier south.

Cork oaks thrive in Extremadura

and western Andalusia.

• SEVILLA

0 kilometres 200

0 miles 100
Sheep grazed on the rough pastures of
Central Spain are milked to make cheese,
especially manchego, which is produced
in La Mancha (see p339).

THE AGRICULTURAL YEAR

Jul–Aug Wheat Sep Rice Oct Maize harvested in
harvested in Central harvest in Northern Spain Dec–Mar Olives
Spain Eastern Spain. for making oil
Grape harvest picked
at its height Oct–Nov Table
olives picked

Spring Summer Autumn Winter

Mar–Apr Orange Nov–Dec Oranges Feb Almond
trees in blossom on picked trees in blossom
Mediterranean coast
Dec Pigs are
Jun–Aug Haymaking Sep Start of wild slaughtered when
in Northern Spain mushroom season cold weather arrives
 A P O R T R A I T O F S PA I N 29

The high rainfall

and mild summers of
Northern Spain make
it suitable for dairy
farming. Farms are
often small, especially
in Galicia, one of the
country’s most under-
developed regions.
Crops such as maize
and wheat are grown
in small quantities.

Cork oaks are stripped of their bark every ten years

Wine is produced in many parts
of Spain (see pp606–7). The CROPS FROM TREES
country’s best sparkling wine
grapes are grown in Catalonia. The almond, orange and olive create the three most
characteristic landscapes of rural Spain but several
other trees provide important crops. Wine corks
are made from the bark of the cork oak. Tropical
species, such as avocado and cherimoya, a deli-
cious creamy fruit little known outside Spain, have
Rice is been introduced to the so-called Costa Tropical
BARCELONA • grown in the of Andalusia (see p483); and bananas are a major
Ebro delta, in crop of the Canary Islands. Elsewhere, peaches
the Marismas del
Guadalquivir, around
and loquats are also grown commercially. Figs
L’Albufera near Valencia and carobs – whose fruit is used for fodder and
and also at Calasparra in Murcia. as a substitute for chocolate – grow semi-wild.

Almonds grow on dry hill-

sides in many parts of
Spain. The spring blossom
can be spectacular. The
nut, enclosed by a fleshy
green skin, is used
in a variety of
sweetmeats
including the
Christmas treat
turrón (see p201).
Olive trees grow slowly
and often live to a great
age. The fruit is harvested
Oranges, lemons and clementines in winter and either
are grown on the irrigated coastal pickled in
plains beside the Mediterranean. brine for
The region of Valencia is the eating as a
prime producer of oranges. to extract the
oil which is widely
used in Spanish
cuisine.

Sweet oranges are grown

in dense, well-irrigated
groves near the frost-free
coasts. The sweet smell of
orange blossom in spring-
time is unmistakeable.
Trees of the bitter
orange are often
Olive trees are planted in long, straight planted for shade
lines across large swaths of Andalusia, and decoration in
especially in the province of Jaén. Spain is parks and gardens.
the world’s leading producer of olive oil.
30 I N T R O D U C I N G S PA I N

Spain’s National Parks

Few other countries in western Europe have
such unspoiled scenery as Spain, or can boast
tracts of wilderness where brown bears live
and wolves hunt. More than 200 nature re-
serves protect a broad range of ecosystems.
The most important areas are the 13
national parks, the first of which was
established in 1918. Natural parks (parques
Giant naturales) regulated by regional governments,
orchid are also vital to the task of conservation. Clear mountain river, Ordesa

MOUNTAINS
Much of Spain’s finest scenery is
found in the mountains. Rivers have
carved gorges between the peaks of
the Picos de Europa. Ordesa and
Aigüestortes share some of the most
dramatic landscapes of
the Pyrenees, while the
Sierra Nevada has an
impressive range of Chamois are well
indigenous wildlife. adapted to climb-
ing across slopes
Eagle owls are covered in scree.
Europe’s largest owl, They live in small
easily identified by groups, always
their large ear tufts. At alert to predators,
night they hunt small and feed on grass
Rough terrain in the Picos de Europa mammals and birds. and flowers.

WETLANDS Lynx, endangered by

Wetlands include coastal strips and fresh- hunting and habitat loss,
water marshes. Seasonal floods rejuvenate can occasionally be
the water, providing nutrients for animal spotted in Doñana
and plant growth. These areas are rich (see pp464–5).
feeding grounds for birds. Spain’s best-
known wetland is Doñana. Catalonia’s
Delta de l’Ebre (see p225) and Tablas de
Daimiel, in La Mancha, are much smaller.

Black-winged
stilts, with
their long,
straight
legs, are
adept at stalking
tiny freshwater
crustaceans. Laguna del Acebuche, Parque Nacional de Doñana

ISLANDS
Cabrera, off Mallorca,
is home to rare plants,
reptiles and seabirds,
such as Eleonara’s Lizards are often
falcon. The surrounding found in rocky
waters are important for terrain and on
Cabrera archipelago, Balearic Islands their marine life. cliff faces.
 A P O R T R A I T O F S PA I N 31

MOUNTAINS VOLCANIC LANDSCAPES

1 Picos de Europa pp108–9 q Caldera de Taburiente p532
2 Ordesa y Monte Perdido pp232–3 w Teide pp538–9
3 Aigüestortes y Estany de Sant e Timanfaya pp548–9
Maurici p211
4 Sierra Nevada p485 VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
WETLANDS All but one of the national parks
are managed by the Ministerio
5 Tablas de Daimiel p399
de Medio Ambiente. Tel 915
NATIONAL PARKS 6 Doñana pp464–5 97 65 77. Parque Nacional
d’Aigüestortes y Estany de Sant
Mountains ISLANDS Maurici is administered jointly
Wetlands 7 Archipiélago de Cabrera p517 with Catalonia’s Department of
Environment. Tel 973 69 61 89.
Islands 8 Islas Atlánticas de Galicia p95
Most of Spain’s national parks
Woods and Forests have visitors’ centres, often
WOODS AND FORESTS called Centros de Interpretació.
Volcanic Landscapes
9 Cabañeros p387
0 Garajonay p533

WOODS AND FORESTS

Deciduous broad-leaved forests grow in the northwest
of Spain, and stands of Aleppo and Scots pine cover
many mountainous areas. On the central plateau
there are stretches of open woodland of
evergreen holm oak and cork oak in
the Parque Nacional de Cabañeros.
Dense, lush laurasilva woodland
grows in the Parque Nacional de
Garajonay, on La Gomera, one
of the smaller Canary Islands.

Black vultures Hedgehogs, common in

are the largest woodlands, root
birds of prey in among fallen
Europe, with leaves and
an enormous grass to
wingspan of find worms
over 2.5 m (8 ft). and slugs. Parque Nacional de Garajonay

VOLCANIC LANDSCAPES
Three very different parks protect parts of the Canary Rabbits are highly
Islands’ amazing volcanic scenery. Caldera de Taburiente opportunistic, quickly
on La Palma is a volcanic crater surrounded by woods. colonizing areas in
Mount Teide in Tenerife has unique alpine flora, and which they can
Lanzarote’s Timanfaya is burrow. In the
composed of barren but absence of predators,
atmospheric lava fields. populations
may increase,
damaging fragile
ecosystems.

Canaries
belong to the
finch family
of songbirds. The
popular canary has
been bred from the
wild serin, native
Colonizing plant species, Mount Teide (Tenerife) to the Canaries.
32 I N T R O D U C I N G S PA I N

Spanish Art The king and queen,

reflected in a mirror be-
Self-portrait hind the painter, may be
Three Spanish painters stand out as milestones in the of Velázquez posing for their portrait.
history of Western art. Diego de Velázquez was a
17th-century court portrait painter and his Las Meninas
is a seminal work. Francisco de Goya depicted Spanish
life during one of its most violent periods. The prolific
20th-century master, Pablo Picasso, is recognized as the
founder of modern art. To these names must be added
that of El Greco – who was born in Crete but who lived
in Spain, where he painted religious scenes in an indi-
vidualistic style. The work of these and Spain’s many
other great artists can be
seen in world-renowned
galleries, especially the
Prado (see pp292–5).

In his series Las Meninas (1957),

Picasso interprets the frozen
gesture of the five-year-old
Infanta Margarita. Altogether,
Picasso produced 44 paintings
based on Velázquez’s canvas.
Some of them are in Barcelona’s
Museu de Picasso (see p153).

RELIGIOUS ART IN SPAIN

The influence of the Catholic Church
on Spanish art through the ages is
reflected in the predominance
of religious imagery. Many
churches and museums have
Romanesque altarpieces or
earlier icons. El Greco (see
p391) painted from a highly
personal religious vision.
Baroque religious art of the
17th century, when the In- LAS MENINAS (1656)
quisition (see p274) was at
In Velázquez’s painting of
its height, often graphically
depicts physical suffering the Infanta Margarita and her
and spiritual torment. courtiers, in the Prado (see
pp292–5), the eye is drawn
The Burial of the Count of into the distance where the
Orgaz by El Greco (see p390) artist’s patron, Felipe IV, is
reflected in a mirror.

TIMELINE OF GREAT SPANISH ARTISTS

1285–1348 1390–1410 The Saviour 1598–1664
Ferrer Bassá Pere Nicolau by José de Ribera Francisco de Zurbarán

1363–95 1428–1460
Jaume Serra Luis 1591–1652
Daimau José de Ribera

1300 1400 1500

1474–95 1565–1628
1388–1424 Bartolomé Bermejo Francisco
Luis Ribalta
Borrassa 1450–1504 Pedro Berruguete
1599–1660
Virgin and Child by 1427–52 1541–1614 Diego de
Ferrer Bassá Bernat Martorell El Greco Velázquez
 A P O R T R A I T O F S PA I N 33

José Nieto, the queen’s

chamberlain, stands in Court jester MODERN ART
the doorway in the back-
ground of the painting. The early 20th-century artists Joan
Miró (see p172), Salvador Dalí (see
p215) and Pablo Picasso (see p152)
all belonged to the Paris School.
More recent artists of note include
Antonio Saura and Antoni Tàpies
(see p164). Among many great
Spanish art collections, the Centro
de Arte Reina Sofia in Madrid (see
pp298–9) specializes in modern art.
Contemporary artists are accorded
great prestige in Spain. Their work
is to be seen in town halls, banks Salvador Dalí’s
and public squares, and many painting of the
towns have a museum dedicated Colossus of
to a local painter. Rhodes (1954)

Collage (1934) by Joan Miró

The Family of King Charles IV

was painted in 1800 by Francisco
de Goya (see p239), nearly 150
years after Las Meninas. Its debt to
Velázquez’s painting is evident in
its frontal composition, compact
grouping of figures and in the
inclusion of a self-portrait.

The Holy Children 1893–1983 Joan Miró 1904–89

with the Shell Salvador Dalí
by Murillo 1881–1973 Pablo Picasso
1923–
1746–1828 1863–1923 Antoni
Francisco de Goya Joaquín Sorolla Tàpies

1700 1800 1900

1642–93 Claudio Coello 1887–1927

Juan Gris
1618–82 Bartolomé
Esteban Murillo
Jug and Glass 1930–1998
(1916) by Juan Gris Antonio Saura
34 I N T R O D U C I N G S PA I N

Literary Spain interleaved with other stories.

Fernando de Rojas uses skil-
The best-known work of Spanish ful characterization in La
literature, Don Quixote is considered Celestina to tell a tragic love
the first modern novel, but Spain story about two nobles and a
has produced many major works scheming go-between. This
over the last 2,000 years. The was an age in which tales of
chivalry were also popular.
Roman writers Seneca, Lucan and
Martial were born in Spain. Later,
The 14th-century El the Moors developed a GOLDEN AGE
Libro de Buen Amor flourishing, but now little-known,
literary culture. Although Spanish
(Castilian) is the national tongue, many enduring works
have been written in the Galician and Catalan regional
languages. Basque literature, hitherto an oral culture, is
a more recent development. Many foreign writers, such
as Alexandre Dumas, Ernest Hemingway and Karel
Capek, have written accounts of their travels in Spain.

Romance (later called Span-

MIDDLE AGES ish) as the official language.
Under his supervision a team
As the Roman empire fell, of Jews, Christians and Arabs
Latin evolved into several Ro- wrote scholarly treatises. The
mance languages. The earliest king himself was a poet, writ-
non-Latin literature in Spain ing in Galician Romance. The prolific Golden Age dramatist,
derives from an oral tradition The first great prose works Félix Lope de Vega
that arose before the 10th in Spanish appeared in the
century. It is in the form of 14th and 15th centuries. El The 16th century hailed the
jarchas, snatches of love Libro de Buen Amor, by an ec- start of Spain’s Golden Age
poetry written in Mozarab, clesiastic, Juan Ruiz, is a tale of literature. But it was also a
the Romance language that of the love affairs of a priest, period of domestic
was spoken by Christians liv- strife. This found
ing under the Moors. expression in the
In the 12th century, the first picaresque novel, a
poems appeared in Castilian. Spanish genre originating
During the next 300 years, with the anonymous El
two separate schools of Lazarillo de Tormes, a bit-
poetry developed. The best- ter reflection on the misfor-
known example of trouba- tunes of a blind man’s guide.
dour verse is the anonymous Spiritual writers flourished
epic, El Cantar del Mío Cid, under the austere climate of
which tells of the heroic the Counter-Reformation. St
exploits of El Cid (see John of the Cross’s Cántico
p370) during the Recon- Espiritual was influenced by
quest. Works of clerical oriental erotic poetry and the
poetry – for example, Bible’s Song of Songs.
Gonzalo de Berceo’s The 17th century saw the
Milagros de Nuestra emergence of more great
Señora, relating the life talents. The life and work of
of the Virgin – convey Miguel de Cervantes (see
a moral message. p333) straddles the two cen-
Spanish literature turies of the Golden Age. He
evolved in the published his masterpiece,
13th century Don Quixote, in 1615. Other
after Alfonso important writers of the time
X the include Francisco de Quevedo
Learned and Luis de Góngora.
(see p55) Corrales (public theatres)
replaced Latin appeared in the 17th century,
with Castilian opening the way for Lope de
Vega (see p290), Calderón de
Alfonso X the Learned (1221–84) la Barca and other dramatists.
 A P O R T R A I T O F S PA I N 35

firing squad in 1936 (see

p67). He drew on the legends
and stereotypes of his native
Andalusia to make universal
statements in his poems and
plays, such as Yerma.
In the aftermath of the Civil
War, many intellectuals who
had backed the Republic were
forced into exile. The Franco
regime tried to create its own
propagandist culture. Yet the
finest literature of the period
was written in spite of the
political climate. Camilo José
Cela’s La Colmena, a
description of
everyday life
in the hungry,
postwar city
of Madrid, set
a mood of
social realism
that inspired
other writers.
Since the
Don Quixote’s adventures portrayed by José Moreno Carbonero 1960s, the
novel has
studied the human condition become Poster for a
18TH AND 19TH in his Episodios Nacionales. increasingly Lorca play
CENTURIES The heroine in Clarín’s La popular due to
Regenta is undone by the re- the emergence of writers like
Influenced by the French actionary prejudices of pro- Joan Benet, Julio Llamazares,
Enlightenment, literature in vincial town society. Antonio Muñoz Molina, José
the 18th century was seen as Manuel Caballero Bonald,
a way to educate the people. Juan Marsé and the best-
Such was the aim, for in- 20TH CENTURY selling Carlos Ruiz Zafón.
stance, of Leandro Fernández The 20th century has also
de Moratín’s comedy El Sí de Writers at the turn of the witnessed a surge of great
las Niñas. This period saw the century, including Pío Baroja Spanish literature from Latin
development of journalism as (see p64), Miguel de America. Prominent authors
well as the emergence Unamuno and Antonio include Jorge Luis Borges
of the essay as a Machado, described and Gabriel García Márquez.
literary form. Ro- Spain as falling
manticism had behind the rest
a short and of Europe.
late life in Ramón María
Spain. Don del Valle-
Juan Tenorio, Inclán wrote
a tale of the highly satirical
legendary ir- plays that
repressible created the
Latin lover by foundations of
José Zorrilla, is modern Spanish
the best-known José Zorrilla (1817–93) theatre. In poetry,
Romantic play. the Nobel Prize
The satirical essayist Larra winner, Juan Ramón Jiménez,
stands out from his contem- strived for pureness of form.
poraries at the beginning of The so-called “Generation
the 19th century. Towards the of 27” combined European
end of the century, the novel experimental art with Spain’s
became a vehicle for realistic traditional literary subjects.
portrayals of Spanish society. The best-known of them is
Benito Pérez Galdós, regarded the poet and playwright
by many to be Spain’s great- Federico García Lorca who Camilo José Cela, Nobel Prize-win-
est novelist after Cervantes, was executed by a Fascist ning novelist, by Alvaro Delgado
36 I N T R O D U C I N G S PA I N

The Art of Bullfighting

Bullfighting is a sacrificial ritual
in which men (and also a few
women) pit themselves against
an animal bred for the ring. In this
“authentic religious drama”, as
poet García Lorca described it, the
spectator experiences vicariously
the fear and exaltation felt by the
matador. Although a growing
Poster for a number of Spaniards oppose it on
bullfight grounds of cruelty, nowadays it is Plaza de Toros de la Maestranza,
as popular as ever. Many Spaniards see talk of Seville. This ring is regarded, with Las
Ventas in Madrid, as one of the top
banning bullfighting as striking at the essence
venues for bullfighting in Spain.
of their being, for they regard the toreo, the
art of bullfighting, as a noble part of their
heritage. Bullfights today, however,
are often debased by practices that The matador wears a traje de
weaken the bull, especially shaving luces (suit of lights), a colourful
silk outfit embroidered with
its horns to reduce its aim. gold sequins.

The passes are made with

a muleta, a scarlet cape
stiffened along one side.

Well treated at the ranch, the

toro bravo (fighting bull) is
specially bred for qualities of
aggressiveness and courage. As
aficionados of bullfighting point
out in its defence, the young bull
enjoys a full life while it is being
prepared for its 15 minutes in
the ring. Bulls must be at least
four years old before they fight.

Horses are now

THE BULLFIGHT padded.
The corrida (bullfight)
has three stages, called
tercios. In the first one,
the tercio de varas, the
matador and picadores
(horsemen with lances)
are aided by peones
(assistants). In the
tercio de banderillas,
banderilleros stick
pairs of darts in the
bull’s back. In the
tercio de muleta
the matador makes a
series of passes at the bull The matador plays the bull with Picadores goad the bull with
with a muleta (cape). He a capa (red cape) in the tercio de steel-pointed lances, testing its
then executes the kill, the varas. Peones will then draw the bravery. The lances weaken the
estocada, with a sword. bull towards the picadores. animal’s shoulder muscles.
 A P O R T R A I T O F S PA I N 37

THE BULLRING KEY

The corrida audience is seated Tendidos
in the tendidos (stalls) or in
the palcos (balcony), where Palcos
the presidencia (president’s Presidencia
box) is situated. Opposite
are the puerta de cuadrillas, Puerta de cuadrillas
through which the matador Arrastre de toros
and team arrive, and the
arrastre de toros (exit for bulls). Callejón
Before entering the ring, the Barreras
matadors wait in a corridor
(callejón) behind barreras and Burladeros
burladeros (barriers). Horses are Patio de caballos
kept in the patio de caballos
and the bulls in the corrales. Plan of a typical bullring
Corrales

Banderillas, barbed darts, are Manolete is regarded

thrust into the bull’s already by most followers of
weakened back muscles. bullfighting as one of
the greatest matadors
ever. He was eventually
gored to death by the
bull Islero at Linares,
Jaén, in 1947.

The bull may go free if it

shows courage – spectators
wave white handkerchiefs,
asking the corrida president
to let it leave the ring alive.

Joselito is one of Spain’s leading

matadors today. He is famous for
his purist approach and for his
flair and technical skill with
both the capa and the muleta.

The bullweighs
about 500 kg
(1,100 lbs).

Banderilleros enter to provoke The matador makes passes The estocada recibiendo is
the wounded bull in the tercio with the cape in the tercio de a difficult kill, rarely seen. The
de banderillas, sticking pairs of muleta, then lowers it and matador awaits the bull’s charge
banderillas in its back. thrusts in the sword for the kill. rather than moving to meet it.
38 I N T R O D U C I N G S PA I N

The Fiestas of Spain

On any day of the year there is a fiesta
happening somewhere in Spain – usually
more than one. There isn’t a village, town
or city in the country which doesn’t honour
its patron saint, the Virgin or the changing
seasons with processions, bullrunning, fire-
works, re-enacted battles, some ancestral
rite or a romería – a mass pilgrimage to a
rural shrine. Whatever the pretext, a fiesta
is a chance for everyone to take a break
from normal life (most shops and offices
The Passion, close) and let off steam, with celebrations
Many romerías wind through
Semana Santa sometimes going on around the clock.
the countryside during the year

Seville’s great April Fair (see woven from blanched leaves

SPRING FIESTAS p431), is the biggest celebra- cropped from the most
tion held in Andalusia. extensive forest of palm
The end of winter and the During Los Mayos, on 30 trees in Europe (see p261).
start of spring are marked by April and the following days, The best Semana Santa
Valencia’s great fire festival, crosses are decorated with (Easter Week) processions
Las Fallas (see p255), in which flowers in parts of Spain. are held in Seville (see p431),
huge papier-mâché sculptures Granada, Málaga, Murcia and
are set alight in a symbolic Valladolid. Brotherhoods of
act of burning the old in order EASTER robed men carry pasos, huge
to make way for the new. sculptures depicting the
Alcoi’s noisy mock battles Most communities observe Virgin, Christ or scenes of the
between costumed armies of Easter in some form with Passion, through the streets.
Moors and Christians in April pomp and solemnity. It is They are accompanied by
(see p255) are the most heralded by the Palm Sunday people dressed as biblical
spectacular of the countless processions. The most characters or penitents, in tall
fiestas which commemorate impressive of these is in Elx, conical hats. In some towns
the battles of the Reconquest. where intricate sculptures are passion plays are acted out.
In others, people carry heavy
crosses. Sometimes the
centuries-old ritual of self-
flagellation can be witnessed.

SUMMER FIESTAS

The first major fiesta of the

summer is Pentecost (also
known as Whitsun), in May
or June, and its most famous
celebration is at El Rocío (see
p463), where many thousands
of people gather in a frenzy
of religious devotion.
At Corpus Christi (in May or
June) the consecrated host is
carried in procession through
many cities in an ornate silver
monstrance. The route of the
procession is often covered
with a carpet of flowers. The
main Corpus Christi celebra-
tions take place in Valencia,
Toledo and Granada.
On Midsummer’s Eve, bon-
fires are lit all over Spain,
especially in the areas along
The Brotherhood of Candlemas, Semana Santa (Easter Week) in Seville the Mediterranean coast, to
 A P O R T R A I T O F S PA I N 39

herald the celebration of St

John the Baptist on 24 June.
During Los Sanfermines (see
p128) in Pamplona in July,
young people run through
the streets in front of six bulls.
The Virgin of Carmen,
who is revered as the patron
of fishermen, is honoured in
many ports on 16 July.
The important Catholic holi-
day of Assumption Day, 15
August, is marked by a huge
number and variety of fiestas.

AUTUMN FIESTAS

There are few fiestas in

autumn, but in most wine The losers end up in the harbour in Denia’s July fiesta (see p255)
regions the grape harvest is
fêted. The annual pig slaugh- Spain’s “April Fools’ Day” is St Agatha, the patron saint of
ter has become a jubilant 28 December, when people married women, is honoured
public event in some villages, play practical jokes on each on 5 February when women,
especially in Extremadura. In other. Clown-like characters for once, are the protagonists
Galicia it is traditional to roast may make fun of passers-by. of many fiestas. In Zamarra-
chestnuts on street bonfires. To celebrate New Year’s Eve mala (Segovia), for example,
On All Saints’ Day, 1 Nov- (Noche Vieja), crowds gather women take over the mayor’s
ember, people remember the beneath the clock in Madrid’s privileges and powers for
dead by visiting cemeteries central square, the Puerta del this particular day (see p368).
to lay flowers, especially Sol (see p272). Traditionally
chrysanthemums, on graves. people eat 12 grapes, one on
each chime of midnight, to
bring good luck for the year.
CHRISTMAS AND Epiphany, on 6 January, is
NEW YEAR celebrated with parades of
the Three Kings through the
Nochebuena (Christmas streets of villages and towns
Eve) is the main Christmas the evening before.
celebration, when families
gather for an evening meal
before attending Midnight WINTER FIESTAS St Anthony’s Day in Villanueva
Mass, known as misa del de Alcolea (Castellón province)
gallo (Mass of the rooster). Animals hold centre stage
During the Christmas period, in a variety of fiestas on
belenes (crib scenes) of painted 17 January, the Day of St CARNIVAL
figurines abound. You may Anthony, patron saint of
also see a “living crib”, peo- animals, when pets and live- Carnival, in February or
pled by costumed actors. stock are blessed by priests. early March (depending on
the date of Easter), brings a
chance for a street party as
winter comes to an end and
before Lent begins. The big-
gest celebrations are held in
Santa Cruz de Tenerife (see
p536) – comparable with
those of Rio de Janeiro – and
in Cádiz (see p463). Carnival
was prohibited by the Franco
regime because of its licen-
tiousness and frivolity. It ends
on or after Ash Wednesday
with the Burial of the Sardine,
a “funeral” in which a mock
sardine, representing winter,
A spectacularly costumed choir singing during Carnival in Cádiz is ritually burned or buried.
40 I N T R O D U C I N G S PA I N

S PA I N T H R O U G H T H E Y E A R
F estivals, cultural events
and sports competitions
crowd the calendar in
Spain. Even small villages
have at least one traditional
Music, dance, drama and film
festivals are held in Spain’s
major cities throughout the
year. Meanwhile, the
country’s favourite outdoor
fiesta, lasting a week or Matador with a cape sports – football, basketball,
more, when parades, bull- playing a bull cycling, sailing, golf and tennis
fights and fireworks displays replace – culminate in several national
work (see pp38–9). Many rural and and international championships. It is
coastal towns celebrate the harvest or a good idea to confirm specific dates
fishing catch with a gastronomic fair at of events with the local tourist board
which you can sample local produce. as some vary from year to year.

SPRING

Life in Spain moves

outdoors with the arrival
of spring, and terrace-cafés
begin to fill with people.
The countryside is at its
best as wild flowers bloom,
and irrigation channels flow
to bring water to the newly
sown crops. The important
Easter holiday is a time
of solemn processions
throughout the country.

MARCH Feria del Caballo (Festival of the Horses) in Jerez de la Frontera

International Vintage Car APRIL April Fair (two weeks after

Rally (usually first Sun), Easter), Seville. Exuberant
from Barcelona to Sitges. Religious Music Week Andalusian fiesta (see p431).
Las Fallas (15–19 Mar), (Easter week, from Passion Feria Nacional del Queso
Valencia (see p255). This Sat), Cuenca. (late Apr/early May),
spectacular fiesta also marks Trofeo Conde de Godó Trujillo (Cáceres). A festival
the start of the bullfighting (mid-Apr), Barcelona. celebrating Spanish cheese
(see pp36–7) season. Spain’s international tennis (see p407).
Fiestas (end Feb or championship. National Flamenco Competi-
mid-Mar), Castellón de Moors and Christians (21– tion (late Apr–mid-May,
la Plana. All in honour 24 Apr), Alcoi (see p258). every third year: 2013,
of Mary Magdalene. This colourful costumed 2016), Córdoba. Song, dance
Spanish Motorcycle Grand event celebrates the and guitar performances.
Prix (late Mar/early Apr), Jerez Christian victory over
de la Frontera race track. the Moors in 1276. MAY

Feria del Caballo (first week),

Jerez de la Frontera. Horse
fair showing Andalusia at
its most traditional, with
fine horses and beautiful
women in flamenco dresses.
Fiestas de San Isidro (8–15
May), Madrid (see p290).
Bullfights at Las Ventas
bullring are the highlights
of the taurine year.
Spanish Formula One Grand
Prix (May/Jun), Montmeló
circuit, Barcelona. Inter-
Onlookers lining the street during the Vuelta Ciclista a España national motor race.
 S PA I N T H R O U G H T H E Y E A R 41

repertoire in one of the oldest

theatres in Europe (see p399).
Cider Festival (second
weekend), Nava (Asturias).
Includes traditional cider-
pouring competitions.
Pyrenean Folklore Festival
(late Jul/early Aug, odd
years), Jaca (Aragón). Folk
costumes, music and dance.
International Jazz Festivals
in San Sebastián (third
week), Getxo (first week)
and Vitoria (mid-Jul).
Certamen Internacional de
Habaneras y Polifonía (late
Jul–early Aug), Torrevieja
(Alicante). Musical compe-
tition of 19th-century
seafarers’ songs.

AUGUST

International Festival of
Santander (Aug). Celebration
of music, dance and theatre.
HM the King’s International
San Sebastián, one of the most popular resorts on the north coast Cup (first week), Palma de
Mallorca. Sailing competition
begins and there are gastro- in which Juan Carlos I
SUMMER nomic fiestas everywhere to participates.
celebrate food and drink, Descent of the Río Sella
August is Spain’s big holiday from the fishing catches of the (first Sat). Canoe race in
season. The cities empty as north coast to the sausages Asturias from Arriondas to
Spaniards flock to the coast of the Balearic Islands. Ribadesella (see p107).
or to their second homes in Assumption Day (15 Aug)
the hills. Their numbers are JUNE The Assumption is celebrated
swelled by millions of foreign throughout the country.
tourists, and beaches and International Festival of
camp sites are often full to Music and Dance (Jun–Jul),
bursting. As the heat starts in Granada. Classical music and
the centre and south, enter- ballet staged in the Alhambra
tainment often takes place and the Generalife.
only in the evening, when Grec Arts Festival (late Jun–
the temperature has dropped. Aug), Barcelona. Both
In late summer the harvest Spanish and international
theatre, music and dance.
A Rapa das Bestas (Jun, Jul,
Aug), Pontevedra, La Coruña
and Lugo provinces (Galicia).
Wild horses are rounded up
so that their manes and tails
can be cut (see p99).

JULY Participants in the Descent of the

Río Sella canoe race
Classical Theatre Festival
(end Jun–Aug), Mérida. Semanas Grandes (mid-Aug),
Staged in the Roman theatre Bilbao and San Sebastián.
and amphitheatre (see p410). “Great Weeks” of sporting
Guitar Festival (timing varies), and cultural events.
Córdoba. From classical to Misteri d’Elx (14–15 Aug; also
flamenco (see pp424–5). 29 Oct–1 Nov during Medi-
International Classical Theatre eval Festival), Elx (see p265).
The pouring and tasting of cider in Festival of Almagro (1–25 Jul). Unique liturgical drama featur-
Asturias’s Cider Festival Spanish and classical ing spectacular special effects.
42 I N T R O D U C I N G S PA I N

Vines and the village of Larouco in the Valdeorras wine region of Galicia (see p78) in autumn

SEPTEMBER p239), which marks the end

AUTUMN of the bullfighting year.
Vuelta Ciclista a España Moors and Christians (mid-
Autumn usually brings rain (Sep). Annual bicycle race Oct), Callosa D’en Sarria
after the heat of summer, and around Spain. (Alicante). Parades in honour
with the high tourist season Festival de la Mercé (17–24 of the local madonna.
over, a large number of Sep), Barcelona. Free
resorts practically concerts and folkloric events.
close down. Har- Grape Harvest (mid-Sep),
vest festivities Jerez de la Frontera. Celebra-
continue, how- tion of the new crop in the
ever, and the country’s sherry capital.
most important San Sebastián Film Festival
celebrations are (mid- to late Sep). Gathering
Wild in honour of the of film-makers (see p123).
mushrooms grape. The first Bienal de Arte Flamenco
pressings are (early Sep–early Oct, even
blessed and, in some places, years only), Seville. Top
wine is served for free. flamenco artists perform.
In woodland areas, freshly
picked wild mushrooms start OCTOBER
to appear in various dishes on
local restaurant menus. The Día de la Hispanidad (12 Driving down the fairway at one
hunting season begins in the Oct). Spain’s national holiday of Spain’s golfing championships
middle of October and runs marks Columbus’s discovery
until February. Autumn is also of America in 1492. The big- Madrid Autumn Festival
the start of the new drama gest celebration in the country (mid-Oct–mid-Nov). Drama,
and classical music seasons is the exuberant fiesta of Día dance and music by national
in the major cities of Spain. del Pilar in Zaragoza (see and foreign companies.
Saffron Festival (last
weekend), Consuegra
(Toledo).

NOVEMBER

All Saints’ Day (1 Nov).

This marks the start of the
matanza (pig slaughter) in
rural Spain.
Os Magostos (11 Nov).
Chestnut-harvest fairs
abound in Galicia.
Latin American Film Festival
(mid-Nov for one week),
Lana Turner on centre-stage at the San Sebastián Film Festival Huelva (see p462).
 S PA I N T H R O U G H T H E Y E A R 43

PUBLIC HOLIDAYS
Besides marking the national holidays below, each
region (comunidad autónoma) celebrates its own
holiday and every town and village has at least one
other fiesta each year. If a holiday falls on a Tuesday
or a Thursday, some people also choose to take
holidays on the intervening Monday or Friday,
making a long weekend called a puente (“bridge”).
Año Nuevo (New Year’s Day) (1 Jan)
Día de los Tres Reyes (Epiphany) (6 Jan)
Jueves Santo (Maundy Thursday) (Mar/Apr)
Viernes Santo (Good Friday) (Mar/Apr)
Día de Pascua (Easter Sunday) (Mar/Apr)
Día del Trabajo (Labour Day) (1 May)
Asunción (Assumption Day) (15 Aug)
Día de la Hispanidad (National Day) (12 Oct)
Todos los Santos (All Saints’ Day) (1 Nov)
Día de la Constitución (Constitution Day) (6 Dec)
Inmaculada Concepción (Immaculate
Conception) (8 Dec)
Assumption Day in La Alberca (Salamanca) Navidad (Christmas Day) (25 Dec)

WINTER

Winter varies greatly from

region to region. In the
mountains, snowfalls bring
skiers to the slopes; while in
lower areas, olive and orange
picking are in full swing. The
higher parts of Central Spain
can become very cold.
Andalusia, the east coast and
the Balearic Islands have cool
nights but often sunny days.
The winter warmth of the
Canary Islands brings the high Skiers in the Sierra de Guadarrama, north of Madrid (see p329)
tourist season. Christmas is a
special time of celebration – DECEMBER through town, throwing
an occasion for families to re- sweets to the children.
unite, share food and attend El Gordo (22 Dec). Spain’s La Tamborrada (19–20 Jan),
religious celebrations. largest lottery prize, “the Fat San Sebastián. Drumming en
One”, is drawn (see p622). masse in traditional costume.
Noche Buena (24 Dec) is
a family Christmas Eve, fol- FEBRUARY
lowed by Midnight Mass.
Santos Inocentes (28 Dec), La Endiablada (2–3 Feb),
Spain’s version of April Fools’ Almonacid del Marquesado
Day, when people play tricks. (Cuenca). Townsfolk dress as
Noche Vieja (31 Dec). New devils in honour of San Blas.
Year’s Eve is most celebrated ARCO (mid-Feb), Madrid.
in Madrid’s Puerta del Sol. International contemporary
art fair.
JANUARY Pasarela Cibeles (Fashion
Week) (mid-Feb), Madrid.
Canary Islands International Women’s and men’s fashion
Music Festival (Jan–Feb). shows in the capital.
Classical concerts are held Carnival (Feb/Mar). Final
on La Palma and Tenerife. fiesta before Lent, with col-
Día de los Tres Reyes (6 Jan). ourful costumes. Those in
“El Gordo”, the largest Spanish On the eve of the Epiphany, Santa Cruz de Tenerife and
lottery prize, being drawn the Three Kings parade Cádiz are among the best.
44 I N T R O D U C I N G S PA I N

The Climate of Spain MADRID

Average monthly
Spain’s large landmass, with its exten- 36/97 maximum
sive high plateaus and mountain temperature
° C/F
ranges, and the influences of the Medi- 25/77 24/75
Average monthly
terranean and Atlantic produce a wide 13/55 14/57 minimum
range of climatic variation, especially temperature
3/37 3/38
in winter. The north is wettest year Freezing point
round, the eastern and southern coasts -5/23
and the islands have mild winters, while 8 12 6.5 5 Average daily
hrs hrs hrs hrs hours of sunshine
winter temperatures in the interior are
48 11 53 39 Average monthly
often below freezing. Summers every- rainfall
mm mm mm mm
where are hot, except in upland areas.
month Apr Jul Oct Jan

ASTURIAS AND
4BOUBOEFS
CANTABRIA
0WJFEP
4BOUJBHP
EF #JMCP

° C/F 29/84
24/75 25/77 $PNQPTUFMB #JMCBP
18/64
13/55 7JHP -FØO
8/46 #VSHPT
6/43
2/36

6 6.5 4.5 2.5 7BMMBEPMJE

hrs hrs hrs hrs
83 54 133 119 4BMBNBODB
mm mm mm mm

month Apr Jul Oct Jan

."%3*%

GALICIA 5PMFEP
$ÈDFSFT

° C/F 29/84 #BEBKP[ $JVEBE

25/77
22/72 3FBM
17/63
12/54
7/45
5/41
2/36
$ØSEPCB
6.5 8.5 5 3
4FWJMMB
hrs hrs hrs hrs
67 28 87 118 (SBOBEB
mm mm mm mm
.ÈMBHB "MNFSÓB
month Apr Jul Oct Jan $ÈEJ[

CASTILLA Y LEÓN EXTREMADURA ANDALUSIA

41/106
36/97 38/100

28/82 31/88
° C/F 26/79 ° C/F ° C/F 27/81 28/82
25/77
22/72
18/64 18/64
14/57 14/57
12/54
9/48 7/45 10/50
6/43 4/39
0/32 1/34
-7/19 -2/28
8 12 6.5 3.5 9 12.5 7 5 8 11.5 7 6
hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs
37 14 36 37 46 3 52 61 46 1 64 61
mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm

month Apr Jul Oct Jan month Apr Jul Oct Jan month Apr Jul Oct Jan
 S PA I N T H R O U G H T H E Y E A R 45

BASQUE COUNTRY, ARAGÓN CATALONIA

NAVARRA & RIOJA
36/97 37/99 38/100

° C/F 26/79 ° C/F 26/79 27/81 ° C/F 28/82 28/82

25/77
18/64 18/64
15/59
13/55
10/50
4/39 5/41
1/34 2/36 3/37 3/37

-7/19 -4/25 -5/23

6 9.5 5 2.5 8 11.5 6.5 5 8.5 11.5 6.5 4
hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs
83 46 107 120 34 15 34 17 46 24 30 22
mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm
month Apr Jul Oct Jan month Apr Jul Oct Jan month Apr Jul Oct Jan

%POPTUJB

4BO
4FCBTUJÈO THE BALEARIC
ISLANDS
33/91
*SV×B
° C/F 27/81
24/75
1BNQMPOB
17/63 18/64

9/48
6/43
2/36
-MFJEB
;BSBHP[B
#BSDFMPOB 7.5 11.5 6 5
hrs hrs hrs hrs
32 3 77 39
mm mm mm mm

month Apr Jul Oct Jan

$VFODB 1BMNB
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7BMFODJB

"MCBDFUF

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CASTILLA- VALENCIA THE CANARY

LA MANCHA AND MURCIA ISLANDS
36/97 36/97
32/90 30/86
° C/F 24/75 30/86
26/79 ° C/F 27/81 ° C/F 26/79 25/77
23/73
17/63 17/63 16/61
16/61
12/54 11/52
8/46 9/48
7/45
1/34
-2/28 -1/30 -10/14
7.5 12 6 4.5 8.5 11.5 7 6 7.5 9.5 7 6.5
hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs
48 19 52 43 40 4 52 30 13 0 28 36
mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm
month Apr Jul Oct Jan month Apr Jul Oct Jan month Apr Jul Oct Jan
 I N T R O D U C I N G S PA I N 47

THE HISTORY OF SPAIN

T he Iberian Peninsula, first inhab- in 1469, of Fernando of Aragón and
ited around 800,000 BC, has long Isabel of Castile, the so-called Catholic
been subject to foreign influ- Monarchs, led to Spanish unity. They
ences. From the 11th century
BC it was colonized by sophis-
took Granada, the last Moorish
kingdom, in 1492. Columbus
ticated eastern Mediterranean discovered the Americas in the
civilizations, starting with same year, opening the way
the Phoenicians, then the for the Spanish conquistadors,
Greeks and Carthaginians. who plundered the civiliza-
The Romans arrived in 218 BC tions of the New World.
to fight the Carthaginians, thus The succeeding Habsburg
sparking off the Second Punic War. dynasty spent the riches from the
They harvested the peninsula’s New World in endless foreign wars.
agricultural and mineral wealth Spain’s decline was exacerbated
and established cities with aque- by high inflation and religious
ducts, temples and theatres. Pre-Columbian
oppression. Although the
With the fall of the Roman gold statue Enlightenment in the late 18th
Empire in the early 5th century century created a climate of
AD, Visigothic invaders from the north learning, Spain’s misfortunes continued
assumed power. Their poor political into the next century with an invasion
organization, however, made them easy by Napoleon’s troops and the loss of
prey to the Moors from North Africa. In her American colonies. A new radical-
the 8th century, the peninsula came ism began to emerge, creating a strong
almost entirely under Moorish rule. Anarchist movement. The political
Europe’s only major Muslim territory, instability of the late 19th and early 20th
the civilization of Al Andalus excelled centuries led to dictatorship in the
in mathematics, geography, astronomy 1920s and a republic in the 1930s,
and poetry. In the 9th and 10th centuries which was destroyed by the Spanish
Córdoba was Europe’s leading city. Civil War. Victorious General Franco
From the 11th century, northern ruled by repression until his death in
Christian kingdoms initiated a military 1975. Since then Spain has been a
reconquest of Al Andalus. The marriage, constitutional monarchy.

Bullfighting in Madrid’s Plaza Mayor in the 17th century

Moors paying homage to Fernando and Isabel, the 15th-century Catholic Monarchs
48 I N T R O D U C I N G S PA I N

Prehistoric Spain
The Iberian Peninsula was first inhabited
by hunter-gatherers around 800,000
BC. They were eclipsed by a Neolithic
farming population from 5000 BC. First
in a wave of settlers from over the
Mediterranean, the Phoenicians landed
Helmet of Celt- in 1100 BC, to be followed by the
iberian warrior Greeks and Carthaginians. Invading
Celts mixed with native Iberian tribes SPAIN IN 5000 BC
(forming the Celtiberians). They proved a formidable Neolithic farming settlements
force against the Romans, the next conquerors of Spain.

Small silver
The 28 bracelets bottle
have perforations
and moulded
Iron Dagger (6th century BC) decorations.
Weapons, like this dagger from Burgos,
represent the later Iron Age, in contrast
to earlier metal objects which were for
domestic use.

Stone Age Man

This skull belongs
to a Palaeolithic
man, who hunted
deer and bison
with tools made of
wood and stone.

Incised
geometric
pattern

La Dama de Elche
Dating from the 4th
century BC, this
stone statue is a THE VILLENA TREASURE
fine example of Discovered in 1963 during works in Villena,
Iberian art. Her near Alicante, this Bronze Age find consists
austere beauty of 66 dazzling objects mostly of gold, includ-
reveals traces of ing bowls, bottles and jewellery (see p260).
Greek influence. The treasure dates from around 1000 BC.

TIMELINE
800,000 BC Homo erectus arrives in 2500 BC Los Millares (p501)
Iberian Peninsula 35,000 BC is inhabited by early metal- 1800–1100 BC
Cro-Magnon man workers with belief in the Civilization of El Argar,
300,000 BC Tribes of Homo evolves in Spain afterlife an advanced agrarian
erectus live in hunting camps society, flourishes in
in Soria and Madrid southeast Spain

800,000 BC 2500 2000

500,000 BC Stones 100,000–40,000 BC 5000 BC Farming begins
used as tools by Neanderthal man in Gibraltar in Iberian Peninsula
hominids (probably
Homo erectus)
18,000–14,000 BC Drawings by cave dwellers
at Altamira (Cantabria), near Ribadesella
Bison cave drawing, Altamira (Asturias) and at Nerja (Andalusia)
Other documents randomly have
different content
the steps leading up to an orchestra, the fringe of her mask confined
by her hand, so as to prohibit even a glimpse of her ivory chin, she
subjected to a rigid scrutiny all who issued from the conservatory.
Suddenly, from the door nearest to her, the hussar and his
companion made their appearance, and, as they passed, she
shrouded herself behind the portly figure and sumptuous
embroideries of a Venetian doge. Then she resumed her watch, and
a minute had not elapsed when she saw the tall black domino,
whom she had observed during the evening, re-enter the dancing-
room and make his way as fast as the crowd would allow him to the
nearest door of exit, with a hurried and irregular step, hardly to be
explained otherwise than by sudden illness or violent emotion. She
followed him to the head of the staircase, down which he rushed,
disappearing at its foot through the crowd of lackeys in the hall.
Having seen this, she re-entered the ball-room, sought out the
hussar and his companion, and soon afterwards was whirling with
the former in the giddy circles of a waltz.
Some hours later, as the Hungarian retired from the ball, almost
borne along in the dense stream of masks that now flowed through
the rooms, he felt a momentary pressure of his hand. A paper
remained in its palm, upon which his fingers mechanically closed.
Amidst the ever-moving throng it was impossible to detect the
person from whom he had received it. By this time a large portion of
the company, oppressed by the heat, had unmasked, but he knew
none of the faces he saw around him, whilst of those who had
preserved their vizards he could fix on none as object of suspicion.
So soon as he could extricate himself from the crowd, he unfolded
the paper. It contained the following mysterious words, hastily
scrawled with a pencil:—
"One whom you think asleep wakes and watches. He is here; has
followed and overheard you, and will seek revenge. Be prepared.
Proof is difficult: denial may be safety. Adopt it at all risks. Masked,
the sisters are undistinguishable. Credit this warning from a sincere
friend."
Thrice the Hungarian perused this mysterious billet; and then,
thrusting it into the breast of his richly braided jacket, slowly left the
house.
CHAP. III.—THE ACCUSATION.
The house selected by Baron Ernest von Steinfeld, wherein to pass
what might possibly be his last season in Paris, was situated in the
Rue St Lazare. It was one of those buildings, of frequent occurrence
in modern Parisian architecture, which seem intended to gratify the
taste of such persons as prefer the English fashion of occupying an
entire house, to the French one of dwelling upon a floor. At the
bottom of a paved court-yard, around three sides of which was built
a large mansion containing many tenants, stood one of those
edifices known in French parlance as pavilions—not that they
possess a dome, resemble a tent, or, for the most part, have any of
the qualities of a summer-house, but because, in Paris, the term
"house" is grudgingly bestowed upon a building of less than five
stories and thirty or forty rooms. This pavilion had but three stories
and a dozen rooms; it was a particularly complete and independent
habitation, standing well back from the body of the house, under
whose number it was included, and of which, although detached, it
was considered to form part; and having two entrances, one through
the court, the other from a lane running at right angles with the
street. The ground-floor contained, besides a light and commodious
vestibule and servant's offices, only one apartment, a handsome
dining-room, in which, however, it was impossible, for three quarters
of the year, to dine without lamps—the daylight admitted by its one
broad window being greatly limited by the walls of a nook of garden,
and by the impending branches of a laburnum and acacia, which
mingled their boughs in affectionate union, twin lords of a square
yard of grass, and of a fathom's length of flower-bed, and in the
spring-time rejoiced the inmates of the pavilion with the odorous
rustle of their yellow clusters and rose-coloured blossoms. The first
floor contained two pleasant drawing-rooms and a boudoir; the
second, bath, bed, and dressing rooms. The roof, flat and
surrounded by a parapet, commanded a view over the adjacent
gardens of an extensive bathing establishment and maison de santé,
and was no unpleasant resort, on a fine day, for persons desirous to
inhale the fresh air, or to scent it with the fumes of Havana's weed.
This pavilion, described by the Petites Affiches as fraîchement décoré
—the said decoration consisting in fresh paint and paper, and in a
profusion of that cheerful French luxury, large and excellent mirrors
—was rented for six months by Baron Steinfeld, who had hired, for
the same period, from a fashionable upholsterer—for a sum which
would almost have furnished the house permanently in a plainer
manner—a complete set of furniture, against whose perfect elegance
and good taste not a syllable could be breathed. His establishment
was as correct as his residence. It consisted, in the first place, of a
French cook, with whose sauces Arthur de Mellay had repeatedly
expressed his willingness to eat a fragment of his father; which offer
—considering the worthy count had been a guardsman in the time of
Louis XVI., and, consequently, was neither young nor tender—was
certainly a high testimonial to the merits of sauce and cook. Then
came an Italian valet, quite as skilful a personage in his way as the
professor of gastronomic science—speaking three or four languages,
accumulating in his own individuality the knowledge and
acquirements of a legion of hairdressers, tailors, perfumers, and the
like—thoroughly versed in the arcana of the toilet, a secretary in
case of need, and a perfect Mercury in matters of intrigue. The third
person of Steinfeld's household, the last, and also by much the least
—physically speaking, that is to say, but by no means in his own
estimation—was one of those miniature tigers, (copied from the
English, and essential appendages to the establishment of a Paris
lion,) who look as if they had been subjected to that curious Chinese
process by which lofty shrubs and forest trees are stunted to
dimensions that permit the plantation of a grove in a flower-pot—
wizen-faced, top-booted abortions, uniting the mischief and the
proportions of a monkey, and frightfully precocious in every species
of villany. The house also contained, during the day, an old
Frenchwoman, of a species indigenous and confined to Paris—the
patient butt of the cook's ill-humours and of the groom's pranks,
with bearded chin and slipshod feet, and willing for any sort of dirty
work, from the scouring of a kettle to the administration of the
remedy renowned in French pharmacy.
It was an hour past noon on the day succeeding the Countess of M
——'s masquerade, and Steinfeld sat alone at breakfast. It were
more correct to say that he sat at the breakfast table; for the
savoury meal before him was still untasted, and he seemed in no
haste to attack it. In vain the green oysters from Ostend lay
invitingly open, and one of Chevet's pies displayed, through a
triangular aperture in its crust, the tender tints of an exquisite foie-
gras—the result of the martyrdom of some unhappy Strasburg duck;
in vain a fragrant steam of truffles oozed from beneath the covers of
two silver dishes, fresh from the laboratory of Macedoine the cook,
and mingled its odours with the flowery aroma of a bottle of
Sauterne, from which Rufini the valet had just extracted the long
yellow-sealed cork. Apparently, none of these creature-comforts
dwelt in the desires of the baron, who sat sideways to the table, his
chin resting on his hand, gazing upon vacancy with an intenseness
bespeaking deep preoccupation. One acquainted with Steinfeld's
circumstances would have hesitated little in conjecturing the nature
of the unpleasant reflections in which he seemed absorbed. They
might very well have for motive the unprosperous state of his
exchequer, the heavy incumbrances weighing upon the hereditary
acres, the approaching decease of that convenient but fickle ally, on
whose succour half the world exist, and whose name is Credit. The
baron had been any thing but a prudent man. Too careless of the
future, he had neglected fortune when she offered herself to his
embrace; and now she revenged herself by averting her
countenance. Of high descent and fair estate, handsome person and
fascinating manners, for some years Steinfeld might have aspired to
the hand of almost any heiress in Vienna or Paris. Numerous were
the matrimonial overtures that had been more or less directly made
to him, at a time when, in love with his bachelorhood, and
celebrated for his bonnes fortunes, he looked upon the bonds of
Hymen as the most oppressive of fetters, intolerable even when
sheathed in gold. The matchmakers, repulsed without exception, at
last renounced all further attempts upon the hand of the handsome
Austrian—as Steinfeld was generally called in Paris—and declared
him an incorrigible partisan of celibacy. To the unmolested
enjoyment of his bachelor bliss the baron was for some years left,
until one morning he awoke to the disagreeable consciousness that
profuse expenditure had done its work, and that ruin or a rich
marriage were the only alternatives left him. He was fully alive to the
difficulties placed in the way of the latter by the change in his
circumstances. His ancient name and personal advantages remained,
but his fair estate was in the hands of the harpies; and however
disposed romantic young ladies might be to overlook this misfortune,
prudent papas would deem it a serious stumbling-block. Then it was
that, roused by horrid visions of approaching poverty from his usual
state of happy insouciance, the baron gathered together the relics of
his past opulence, squeezed and exhausted every remaining
resource, and, assuming a bold front against bad fortune, returned
to Paris, with much the feelings of the soldier who screws up all his
energies to conquer or to die. It was no apprehension, however, as
to the result of this final struggle—no nervous trepidation arising
from the imminence of his situation, that now clouded Steinfeld's
brow and spoiled his appetite. On the contrary, he deemed victory
secure, and beheld himself, in no remote perspective, emerging
triumphantly from his difficulties, even as a snake, casting its shabby
skin, reappears in glittering scales of gold. He had not wasted the
three months he had passed in Paris, and was well satisfied with the
result of his exertions. His present uneasiness had a different origin
—one similar to the cause by which, some fifteen hours previously,
we saw Sigismund Fatello so deeply moved. The baron turned and
twisted in his hand a letter, to whose contents he again and again
recurred, pondering them intently. Like that received by the banker,
the billet was anonymous; like his, it contained but three or four
lines; but, despite its brevity and want of authenticity, it proved, on
the part of the writer, whoever that might be, an acquaintance with
the baron's most important secret, that did not fail greatly to
disquiet him. Who had thus detected what he deemed so surely
concealed? He strained his eyes and memory, in vain endeavouring
to recognise the handwriting; and, more than once, fancying he had
done so, he fetched notes and letters from a desk in the adjoining
boudoir, to compare them with the anonymous epistle. But the
comparison always dissipated his suspicion. Then, taking a pen, and
a diminutive sheet of amber-scented paper, he began a note, but
tore the paper after writing only three words, and threw the
fragments impatiently into the fire. Just then the pavilion bell rang
loudly; the next minute there was a knock at the room door, and
Celestin the tiger made his appearance, bearing a card inscribed
with the name of M. Sigismund Fatello, and an inquiry whether
Monsieur le Baron was at home and visible.
On reading the banker's name, Steinfeld made a slight and sudden
movement, almost amounting to a start, but, instantly recovering
himself, he bade his groom show the visitor up stairs. At the same
time he hastily seated himself, ordered Rufini to take off the covers,
poured some wine into a glass, and helped himself from the first
dish that came to hand; so that when Fatello, ushered in by the
groom, entered the apartment, he had all the appearance of one
whose whole faculties were concentrated, for the time being, in the
enjoyment of an excellent meal. Rising from his chair, with an air of
jovial cordiality, he hastened to welcome the banker.
"An unexpected pleasure, my dear Fatello," said he. "What
favourable chance procures me so early a visit? You are come to
breakfast, I hope. Rufini, a knife and fork for M. Fatello."
"I have breakfasted, M. le Baron," replied Fatello, with a dryness
amounting almost to incivility. "If my call is untimely, my business is
pressing——and private," he added, with a glance at the Italian, who
stood in respectful immobility behind his master's chair.
"Leave the room, Rufini," said Steinfeld.
The well-drilled valet bowed in silence, and glided noiselessly from
the apartment.
"Now then, my good friend," said the Austrian, in the same gay
offhand tone as before, "I am all ear and attention. What is up?
Nothing bad, I hope; nothing so serious as to spoil my appetite. I
have heard a proverb condemning discourse between a full man and
a hungry one."
Fatello made no immediate reply. There was something very peculiar
in his aspect. His lips were pale and compressed, and his brows
slightly knit. He seemed constraining himself to silence until he felt
he could speak calmly on a subject which roused anger and
indignation in his breast. Whilst seemingly engrossed by his
breakfast, Steinfeld lost not a look or motion of his visitor's, not a
line of his physiognomy, or a glance of his small piercing eye. And
the baron, notwithstanding his assumed careless levity of manner,
did not feel altogether at his ease.
"You have not turned conspirator, I hope," said he, when Fatello,
after a short but awkward pause, still remained silent. "No Henri-
quinquist plot, or plan to restore the glorious days of the guillotine
and the Goddess of Liberty? No, no; a Crœus of your calibre, my
dear Fatello, would not mix in such matters. Your plotters are hungry
dogs, with more debts than ducats. Talking of hunger—I am grieved
you have breakfasted. This mushroom omelet does honour to
Macedoine."
The baron would have talked on,—for at that moment any sort of
babble seemed to him preferable to silence. But Fatello, who had not
heard a word he had said, suddenly rose from his seat, rested his
hands upon the table, and leaning forward, with eyes sternly fixed
upon Steinfeld, uttered these remarkable words, in tones rendered
harsh and grating by the effort that made them calm:
"Monsieur le Baron de Steinfeld, you are courting my wife!"
The most expert physiognomist would have failed to detect upon the
countenance of the ex-diplomatist any other expression than one of
profound astonishment, tinged by that glow of indignation an
innocent man would be likely to feel at an unfounded accusation,
abruptly and brutally brought. After sustaining for a few seconds
Fatello's fixed and angry gaze, his features relaxed into a slightly
contemptuous smile.
"The jest is surely in questionable taste, my dear M. Fatello. And the
severity of your countenance might alarm a man with a conscience
less clear than mine."
"I jest not, sir, with my honour and happiness," retorted Fatello, with
a rude fierceness that brought a flush to the baron's cheek—a flame
of anger which the next moment, however, dispelled.
"Then, my dear M. Fatello," said Steinfeld, "since, instead of a bad
jest, you mean sober earnest, I can only say you are grossly
misinformed, and that your suspicions are as injurious to Madame
Fatello, as your manner of expressing them is insulting to myself."
"I have no suspicions," replied Fatello, "but a certainty."
"Impossible!" said the baron. "Name my accuser. He shall account
for the base calumny."
"He desires no better," replied Fatello, sternly. "I myself accuse you.
No slanderous tongues, but my own ears, are evidence against you.
And yourself, sir, shall confess what you now so stubbornly deny. You
were at last night's masquerade."
"I was so."
"In hussar uniform—crimson vest and white pelisse."
Steinfeld bowed assent. "The uniform of the regiment to which I
formerly belonged."
"A black domino was on your arm."
"Ma foi!" cried the baron, with a laugh that sounded rather forced,
"if you demand an account of all the masks I walked and danced
with, I shall hardly be able to satisfy you. Dominos there were,
doubtless; and, of all colours, black amongst the rest."
"You equivocate, sir," said Fatello, angrily. "I will aid your memory.
The domino I mean was your companion early in the night. The
domino I mean danced once with you, (a waltz,) and afterwards
walked with you through the rooms, in deep conversation. The
domino I mean stood with you for more than ten minutes beside the
fountain in the conservatory. The domino I mean was my wife; and
you, Baron Steinfeld, are a villain!"
During this singular conversation Steinfeld had sat, leaning back in
his large elbow-chair, in an attitude of easy indifference—one
slippered foot thrown carelessly over the other, and his hands thrust
into the pockets of his damask dressing-gown. On receiving this last
outrageous insult, his lip blanched with passion, his whole person
quivered as with an electric shock, and he half rose from his semi-
recumbent position. But the baron was a man of vast self-command;
one of those cool-headed cool-hearted egotists who rarely act upon
impulse, or compromise their interests by ill-timed impetuosity. The
first choleric movement, prompting him to throw Fatello down stairs,
was checked with wonderful promptitude, and with little appearance
of effort. In reality, however, the effort was a violent one. As a
soldier at the triangles bites a bullet with the rage of pain, so
Steinfeld clenched his hands till the strong sharp nails almost cut
into the palm. As he did so, a paper in his pocket rustled against his
knuckles. It was the note so mysteriously conveyed to him at the
masquerade, and which he had been pondering when Fatello was
announced. To one so quick-witted, the mere touch of the paper was
as suggestive as a volume of sage counsels. In an instant every sign
of annoyance disappeared from his features; he rose quietly from his
seat, and with easy dignity and an urbane countenance, confronted
Fatello, who stood gloomy and lowering before the fire.
"I see, M. Fatello," he said, "that you are bent upon our cutting each
other's throats; but, strange as it may seem, after the terms you
have employed, I still hope to avert the unpleasant necessity. For
one moment moderate your language, and give me time for brief
explanation. If I rightly understand you, it is from your own
observations you thus accuse me; and I presume you did me the
honour of a personal surveillance at last night's ball?"
Fatello, his violence checked for the moment from further outbreak
by the baron's courtesy and coolness, made a gesture of sullen
assent.
"And that you overheard a part, but not the whole, of my
conversation with the black domino in question?"
"I heard enough, and too much," replied Fatello, with a savage scowl
at his interlocutor. "This is idle talk, mere gain of time. Baron
Steinfeld!" cried the banker, in a voice that again rose high above its
usual pitch, "you are——"
"Stop!" interrupted Steinfeld, speaking very quickly, but with an
extraordinary and commanding calmness, which again had its effect.
"Descend not to invective, M. Fatello. There is always time for
violence. Hear reason. You are in error, an error easily explained. I
certainly saw Madame Fatello at the ball, saw and spoke with her—
patience, sir, and hear me! But the domino, of my conversation with
whom you heard a part, was not Madame Fatello, but Mademoiselle
Gonfalon. You take little interest in the frivolities of a masquerade,
and are possibly unaware that the two ladies' dresses were exactly
similar. You can have heard our conversation but imperfectly, or you
would not have wronged me by this suspicion."
Whilst uttering these last sentences, Steinfeld redoubled the
keenness of the scrutiny with which he regarded the banker's
uncomely and agitated physiognomy. But although piquing himself,
as a former diplomatist, on skill in reading men's thoughts through
their faces, he was unable to decipher the expression of Fatello's
countenance on receiving this plausible explanation of the error into
which he had been led by the sisters' identity of costume. As he
proceeded with it, the banker's lips, slightly parting, gave his face an
air of stupefied wonderment, in addition to its previously inflamed
and angry aspect. When Steinfeld concluded an explanation uttered
with every appearance of sincerity and candour, and in that flexible
and affable tone which, when he chose to employ it, imparted to his
words a peculiarly seductive and persuasive charm, Fatello's lips
were again firmly closed, and curled with a curious and inexplicable
smile. This faded away; he struck his left hand against his forehead,
and remained for some moments plunged in thought, as if he hastily
retraced in his memory what he had heard the night before, to see
how it tallied with the explanation just given him. Thus, at least,
Steinfeld interpreted his manner; and although the Austrian's
countenance preserved its serenity, his heart throbbed violently
against his ribs during the banker's brief cogitation. The result of this
was evidently satisfactory to Fatello, from whose brow, when his
hand again dropped by his side, the lowering cloud had disappeared,
replaced by affability and regret.
"I see," he said, with better grace than might have been expected
from him, and taking a step towards Steinfeld, "that nothing remains
for me but to implore your pardon, baron, for my unwarrantable
suspicions, and for the harsh and unbecoming expressions into
which they betrayed me. Jealousy is an evil counsellor, and blinds to
the simplest truths. I scarce dare hope you will forgive my
intemperate conduct, without exacting the hostile meeting for which
I was just now as eager as I at present am to avoid it. If you insist, I
must not refuse, but I give you my word that if I have a duel with
you to-day, nothing shall induce me to depart from the defensive."
"I should be unreasonable," replied Steinfeld graciously, "if I exacted
ampler satisfaction than this handsome apology, for what, after all,
was no unnatural misconception. Ten years ago, I might have been
more punctilious, but after three or four encounters of the kind, a
duel avoided, when its real motive is removed, is a credit to a man's
good sense, and no slur upon his courage."
"No one will ever attack yours, my dear baron," said Fatello. "I only
hope you will always keep what has passed between us this morning
as profound a secret as I, for my own sake, certainly shall do. I am
by no means disposed to boast of my part in the affair."
Steinfeld bowed politely, and the two men exchanged, with smiles
upon their faces, a cordial grasp of the hand.
"Out of evil cometh good," said the banker sententiously, subsiding
upon the silken cushions of a causeuse that extended its arms
invitingly at the chimney-corner. "I am delighted to find that the
leaden bullet I anticipated exchanging with you is likely to be
converted into a golden ring, establishing so near a connexion
between us as to render our fighting a duel one of the least
probable things in the world. My dear baron, I shall rejoice to call
you brother-in-law."
"It would be a great honour for me," replied Steinfeld, "but you
over-rate the probability of my enjoying it. Nothing has passed
between Mademoiselle Gonfalon and myself to warrant my reckoning
on her preference."
"Tush, tush! baron," said Fatello, apparently not heeding, or not
noticing the somewhat supercilious turn of Steinfeld's phrases, "you
forget the new and not very creditable occupation to which the
demons of jealousy and suspicion last night condemned me. You
forget that I tracked you in the promenade, and lay in ambush by
the fountain, or you would hardly put me off with such tales as
these."
The baron winced imperceptibly on being thus reminded how closely
his movements had been watched.
"You are evidently new at the profession of a scout," said he
jestingly, "or you would have caught more correctly my conversation
with your amiable sister-in-law. Mademoiselle Gonfalon is a charming
person; the mask gives a certain license to flirtation, and a partial
hearing of what passed between us has evidently misled you as to
its precise import."
"Not a bit of it!" cried Fatello, with an odd laugh—"I heard better
than you think, I assure you; and what I did hear quite satisfied me
that you are a smitten man, and that Sebastiana is well disposed to
favour your suit."
"I must again protest," said Steinfeld, expressing himself with some
embarrassment, "that the thought of becoming Mademoiselle
Gonfalon's husband, great as the honour would be, has never yet
been seriously entertained by me; and that, however you may have
been misled by the snatches of our conversation you overheard,
nothing ever passed between us exceeding the limits of allowable
flirtation—the not unnatural consequence of Mademoiselle
Sebastiana's fascinating vivacity, and of the agreeable footing of
intimacy on which, for the last three months, I have found
admittance at your hospitable house."
Sigismund Fatello preserved, whilst the baron waded through the
intricacies of his artificial and complicated denial, a half-smile of
polite but total incredulity.
"My dear baron," said he, gravely, when Steinfeld at last paused, "I
am sure you are too honourable a man to trifle with the affections of
any woman. I know you as the very opposite character to those
heartless and despicable male coquets, who ensnare susceptible
hearts for the cruel pleasure of bruising or breaking them, and
sacrifice, in their vile egotism, the happiness of others to the
indulgence of paltry vanity. I detect the motives of your present
reserve, and, believe me, I appreciate their delicacy. Rumour, that
eternal and impertinent gossip, has asserted that Baron Ernest von
Steinfeld has impaired, by his open hand and pursuit of pleasure, the
heritage of his forefathers. I do not mean that this has become
matter of common report; but we bankers have opportunities of
knowing many things, and can often read in our bill-books and
ledgers the histories of families and individuals. In short, it is little
matter how I know that your affairs, my dear baron, are less
flourishing than they might be, or than you could wish. But this,
after all, is an unimportant matter. The dirty acres are still there—the
Schloss Steinfeld still stands firm upon its foundation, and though
there be a bit of a mortgage on the domain, and some trouble with
refractory Jews, it is nothing, I am sure, but what a clear head, and
a little ready cash, will easily dispose of."
It was natural to suppose that a lover, whose position on the brink of
ruin made him scruple to ask the hand of his mistress of her nearest
male relative and protector, and who found his embarrassments
suddenly smoothed over and made light of by the very person who
might be expected to exaggerate them, would be the last man to
place fresh stumbling-blocks on the path to happiness thus
unexpectedly cleared before him. Steinfeld, however, appeared little
disposed to chime in with the banker's emollient view of his
disastrous financial position. With an eagerness that bespoke either
the most honourable punctiliousness, or very little anxiety to become
the husband of Mademoiselle Gonfalon, he set Fatello right.
"I heartily wish," said he, "matters were no worse than you suppose.
You quite underrate my real embarrassments. My estate is mine only
nominally; not a farthing it produces comes into my pocket; the very
castle and its furniture are pledged; some houses in Vienna, and a
few thousand florins of Austrian rentes, derived from my mother,
melted away years ago; I am deeply in debt, and harassed on all
sides by duns and extortioners. I calculated my liabilities the other
day—why, I know not, for I have no chance of clearing them—and I
found it would require three hundred thousand florins to release my
lands and pay my debts. You see, my dear M. Fatello, I am not a
very likely match for an heiress."
Fatello had listened with profound attention to the insolvent balance-
sheet exhibited by the baron.
"Three hundred thousand florins—six hundred thousand francs," said
he, musingly—"allowing for usury and overcharges, might doubtless
be got rid of for a hundred thousand less. Well, baron, when
Sebastiana marries, she will have more than that tacked to her
apron. Her father left her something like half a million, and I have
not let the money lie idle. She is a richer woman, by some thousand
louis d'ors, than she was at his death. I don't carry her account in
my head, but I daresay her fortune would clear your lands, and
leave a nice nest-egg besides. And although she certainly might find
a husband in better plight as regards money matters, yet, as you are
so much attached to each other, and happiness, after all, is before
gold, I shall make no difficulties. I noticed the girl was absent and
sentimental of late, but never guessed the real cause. Ah, baron!
you fascinating dogs have much to answer for!"
Whilst Fatello thus ran on, with, as usual, more bluntness than good
breeding, Steinfeld was evidently on thorns; and at the first
appearance of a pause in the banker's discourse, he impatiently
struck in.
"I must beg your attention, M. Fatello," said he, "whilst I repeat
what you evidently have imperfectly understood—that it has never
entered my head to gain Mademoiselle Gonfalon's affections, and
that I have no reason to believe I should succeed in the attempt. I
again repeat that nothing but the most innocent and unimportant
flirtation has passed between us. I am deeply sensible of your kind
intentions—grateful for your generous willingness to overlook my
unfortunate circumstances, and to promote my marriage with your
sister-in-law; but, flattering and advantageous as such a union
would be to me, I am not certain it would lead to that happiness
which you justly deem preferable to wealth. I doubt whether my
disposition and that of Mademoiselle Sebastiana would exactly
harmonise. Moreover, necessitous though I am, it goes against my
pride to owe every thing to my wife. It would pain me to see her
dowry swallowed up by my debts. Let us drop the subject, I entreat
you. To-morrow you will appreciate and rejoice at my hesitation. I
fully comprehend the generous impulse that prompts you. Having
done me an injustice, you would compensate me beyond my merits.
Thanks, my good friend; but, believe me, if happiness resides not in
wealth, neither is it found in hasty or ill-assorted unions. And, to tell
you the truth, however politic a rich marriage might be in the
present critical state of my affairs, I long ago made a vow against
matrimony, which I still hesitate to break."
"You are the best judge of your own motives," said Fatello, stiffly,
"but you quite misconstrue mine. It never entered my head to view
you as a victim, or to think myself called upon to atone, by providing
you with a rich and handsome wife, for the jealousy you so
successfully proved groundless. Such compensation would be
excessive for so slight an injury. No, no, baron—you have quite
mistaken me. As the nearest connexion and natural guardian of
Mademoiselle Gonfalon, it is my duty to watch over her, and not to
allow her feelings to be trifled with. For some time past, I have
suspected her affections were engaged, but it never occurred to me
they were fixed upon you. Well—last night I go to a ball, and,
actuated by suspicions to which it is unnecessary to recur, I listen to
your conversation with my sister-in-law. To a plain man like myself, it
bore but one interpretation—that you have sought and won her
heart. You deny this, and assert your language to have been that of
common gallantry and compliment, such as may be addressed to
any woman without her inferring serious intentions. Here, then, we
are gravely at issue. You maintain my ears deceived me; I persist in
crediting their evidence. Fortunately, an arbiter is easily found. I
shall now return home, see my sister-in-law, and confess to her my
eaves-dropping, keeping its real motive and my visit to you
profoundly secret. From her I shall learn how matters really stand. If
her account agree with Baron Steinfeld's, I shall evermore mistrust
my hearing; if the contrary, and that the baron, himself a sworn foe
to marriage, has compromised the happiness of a young and
confiding woman, why, then, he will not be surprised if I seek of
him, for so grave an offence, the reparation which a short time ago I
was ready to afford him for one comparatively insignificant." And
Fatello bowed formally, and with severe countenance moved towards
the door. But before he could leave the room, Steinfeld, who had
stood for a moment thoughtful and perplexed, hurried to intercept
him, and laid his hand upon the lock.
"You are really too hasty, Fatello," said he, "and not altogether
reasonable. What ill weed have you trodden upon, that makes you
so captious this morning? Own that our conversation has taken an
odd turn! Would any one believe that you, Fatello the millionnaire,
press a marriage between your sister, the wealthy Mademoiselle
Gonfalon, and myself, the needy Baron Steinfeld—and that it is I, the
ruined spendthrift, from whom the obstacles to the match proceed?
Neither in romance nor in real life has the case a precedent. And you
may be assured the world will not applaud your wisdom, nor
Mademoiselle Sebastiana feel grateful for your zeal."
"For the world's applause I care not that," replied Fatello, snapping
his fingers. "As to my sister, I have neither will nor power to
constrain her. I do but afford her the protection she is entitled to at
my hands. I press her upon no man, but neither do I suffer her to
be trifled with. Sebastiana Gonfalon does not lack suitors, I can
assure you."
"Unquestionably," said Steinfeld, with an absent air; "Mademoiselle
Gonfalon is indeed a most charming person, and, were she
penniless, would still be a prize to any man. I only wish I enjoyed
the place in her good opinion you so erroneously imagine me to
occupy."
"Well, well," said Fatello, striving to get at the door, before which the
baron had planted himself, "since error there is, it will soon be
cleared up. You cannot blame me, baron, for preferring, in so
delicate an affair, the testimony of my own ears to that of any one
person. But if two unite against me, I shall think myself crazed or
bewitched, and shall at least be silenced and confounded, if not
entirely convinced."
"Answer me one question," said Steinfeld. "If yesterday, before you
overheard a part of my conversation with your sister, I had asked of
you her hand, exposing to you at the same time the state of my
fortunes, or rather of my misfortunes, would you then have
sanctioned my suit and pleaded my cause with Mademoiselle
Gonfalon? Would you, and will you now—for, believe me, I need it
more than you think—add the weight of your arguments and
advocacy to the prepossession you persist in thinking your sister has
in my favour, a prepossession of whose existence I hardly dare
flatter myself?"
"Why not?" said Fatello, with an air of straightforward cordiality.
"Why not? You are not rich, certainly but Sebastiana is rich enough
for both. You have high birth, talents, interest with the Emperor,
and, once married, with your debts paid, and your wild oats sown,
you may take ambition instead of pleasure for a mistress, and aspire
to high employment. Why not return to diplomacy, for which you are
so admirably qualified, and come back to us as Austrian
ambassador? Believe me, baron, there is a fine career before you, if
you will but pursue it."
"Perhaps," said Steinfeld, smiling to himself, like a man to whom a
bright perspective is suddenly thrown open; "and, as you say, the
first step would be a suitable marriage, which, by ridding me of all
encumbrance, might enable me to climb lightly and steadily the hill
of wealth and honours."
"And a millionnaire brother-in-law to give you an occasional push by
the way," added Fatello, with one of his heavy, purse-proud smiles;
"pushes you may repay in kind, for diplomatist and financier should
ever hunt in couples."
"My dear Fatello," said Steinfeld, "the prospect is too charming to be
lightly relinquished. You must think strangely of my first reluctance
to avail myself of your friendly disposition in my favour; but I so little
suspected it, I was so bewildered by its sudden revelation, so
embarrassed by my own difficulties—and then pride, you know—a
morbid fear of being thought mercenary; in short, you will make
allowance for my strange way of meeting your kind encouragement.
I can only say, that since you deem me worthy of her, and if you can
obtain her consent, (a more difficult task, I fear, than you imagine,) I
shall be the happiest of men as the husband of the adorable
Sebastiana."
"That is speaking to the purpose," said Fatello; "and, for my part, I
repeat that I shall be happy to call you brother-in-law. I will do my
best for you with Sebastiana, to whom I will at once communicate
your formal demand in marriage. But, pshaw! you rogue," added he,
with a clumsy attempt at archness, "you have made pretty sure of
her consent, and need no brotherly advocate."
"Indeed you are mistaken," replied Steinfeld earnestly. "I only wish I
were as confident, and with good reason, as you think me."
"Well, well, no matter," said the banker. "You shall shortly hear your
fate."
"I shall be on thorns till I learn it," said the baron. "And, my dear
Fatello," said he, detaining the banker, who, after shaking hands
with him, was about to leave the room, "it is perhaps not necessary
to refer—at least not weigh upon—our conversation at last night's
masquerade. It might vex Mademoiselle Gonfalon—to learn that she
had been overheard—or—she might doubt your having heard, and
think I had been confiding to you a presumptuous and unfounded
belief of her partiality for myself. Women, you know, are susceptible
on these points; it might indispose her towards me, and lessen my
chance. In short," he added, with a smile, "if you will be guided by
an ex-roué, now reformed, but who has some little experience of the
female heart, you will confine yourself to the communication of my
proposals, without reference to any thing past, and apply all your
eloquence to induce Mademoiselle Sebastiana to receive them as
favourably as yourself."
Fatello nodded knowingly.
"Ay, ay," said he, "I see I need not despair of my ears. They do not
serve me so badly. But never fear, baron—I will know nothing,
except that you are desperately in love, and that your life depends
on your suit's success. That is the established formula, is it not?"
When the baron—after escorting Fatello, in spite of his resistance, to
the door of the pavilion, where the banker's carriage awaited him—
re-entered the breakfast-room, the joyous and hopeful expression
his countenance had worn during the latter part of his conversation
with his visitor was exchanged for one of anxiety and doubt. Instead
of returning to the breakfast, of which he had scarcely eaten a
mouthful, he drew his arm-chair to the fire, threw himself into it,
and fell into a brown study. The attentive valet, who came in full of
concern for his master's interrupted meal, was sharply dismissed,
with an order to admit no callers. After a short time, however,
Steinfeld's cogitations apparently assumed a rosier hue. The wrinkles
on his brow relaxed their rigidity, he ceased to gnaw his mustache,
and at length a smile dawned upon his features, and grew till it
burst into a laugh. Something or other inordinately tickled the
baron's fancy; for he lay back in his chair and laughed heartily, but
silently, with the eyes rather than the mouth, for nearly a minute.
Then getting up, and lounging pensively through the room, he
indulged in a soliloquy of muttered and broken sentences, which,
like the secret cipher of a band of conspirators, were unintelligible
without a key. Their obscurity was increased by a style of metaphor
borrowed from the card-table, and which a man of such correct taste
as Steinfeld would doubtless have scrupled to employ in
conversation with any one but himself.
"What an odd caprice of fate!" he said. "A strange turn in the game,
indeed! The card I most feared turns up trumps! It rather deranges
my calculations; but perhaps it is as good a card as the other.
Decidedly as sure a one. What certainty that yonder pedantic booby
is right in his prognostics? And then there was no avoiding it.
Provided, only, Fatello is silent about last night. If not, all is spoilt.
And if she makes a scene! Your Spanish dames are reputed fiery as
Arabs; but I take her for one of the milder sort—rather a pining than
a storming beauty. What if I were to miss both, by some infernal
quiproquo or other. Query, too, whether Sebastiana accepts; but I
think, with Fatello to back me, I need not fear much on that score. I
detect his motives. To your rich upstart, money is dirt compared with
descent, connexion, title. He would like to be an ambassador's
brother-in-law, the near connexion of a family dating from
Charlemagne—he, the man of nothing, with plebeian written on his
front. Upwards of half a million. Seven hundred thousand, I daresay.
I had reckoned on nearly double, and now I may lose both. Well, à
la grâce du diable. I will go take a gallop."
And in another half hour the aspirant to the hand and fortune of
Sebastiana Gonfalon was cantering round the Bois de Boulogne,
followed at the prescribed distance by Celestin, who, mounted on a
fine English horse, near sixteen hands high, bore no slight
resemblance to an ape exalted on an elephant.
CHAP. IV.—THE CAPTAIN'S ROOM.
The hotel of the Northern Eagle, situated in one of the most
respectable of the numerous small streets between the Rue St
Honoré and the Rue Neuve des Petits Champs, is one of several
hundred establishments of the class, scattered over Paris, and
which, although bearing the ambitious title of "hotel," differ in no
essential respect from what in London are styled third or fourth-rate
lodging-houses. It is a tall, narrow, melancholy-looking edifice,
entered through an archway, which devours a great part of the
ground-floor, and is closed at night by a heavy coach-door, and in
the daytime by a four-foot palisade, painted a bright green, with a
gate in the middle, and a noisy bell that rings whenever the gate is
opened. Under the archway, and in the little paved court that
terminates it, there is always a strong smell of blacking in the
morning, and an equally strong smell of soup in the afternoon; the
former arising from the labours of Jean, a strapping, broad-
shouldered native of Picardy, who makes beds, cleans boots, and
carries water for the entire hotel; the latter emanating from a small,
smoky den, not unlike a ship's caboose, where a dingy cookmaid
prepares the diurnal pot-au-feu for the mistress of the hotel, her son
and husband, and for a couple of pensioners, who, in consideration
of the moderate monthly payment of fifty francs each, are admitted
to share the frugal ragouts of Madame Duchambre's dinner-table. By
an architectural arrangement, common enough in old Paris houses,
and which seems designed to secure a comfortable gush of cold air
through the crevices of every door in the building, the foot of the
staircase is in the court, open to all weathers—a circumstance most
painful to Jean, who takes pride in the polish of his stairs, and is to
be seen, whenever his other avocations leave him a moment's
leisure, busily repairing, with a brush buckled on his foot, and a bit
of wax in a cleft stick, the damage done to their lustre by the muddy
boots of the lodgers. The hotel contains about five-and-twenty
rooms, all let singly, with the exception of the first floor, divided into
two "appartemens" of two rooms and a cupboard each, for which
Madame Duchambre obtains the extravagant rent of ninety and one
hundred francs per month. Above the first floor the rooms are of
various quality—from the commodious chamber which, by the
French system of an alcove for the bed, is converted in the daytime
into a very tolerable imitation of a parlour—to the comfortless attic,
an oven in summer, an ice-house in winter, dearly paid at five francs
a-week by some struggling artisan who works hard enough in the
day to sleep anywhere at night.
At the period referred to by this narrative, a room upon the third
floor of the hotel of the Northern Eagle was occupied, as might be
ascertained by inspection of a lithographed visiting card, stuck upon
the door with a wafer, by Godibert Carcassonne, captain in the 1st
African Chasseurs, known emphatically amongst the permanent
tenants of the hotel as "The Captain." Not that military occupants
were a rarity under the wings of the Northern Eagle; captains were
common enough there—majors not very scarce—and it was upon
record that more than one colonel had occupied the yellow salon
upon the first floor. But none of these warriors bore comparison with
Captain Carcassonne in the estimation of Madame Duchambre, an
elderly lady with a game leg, and a singularly plain countenance,
who had seen better days, and had a strong sense of the proprieties
of life. In general she professed no great affection for men of the
sword, whom she considered too much addicted to strong drink and
profane oaths, and who did not always, she said, respect la pudeur
de la maison. The captain, however, had completely won her heart—
not by any particular meekness or abstinence, for he consumed far
more cognac than spring water, had a voice like a deep-mouthed
mastiff, and swore, when incensed, till the very rafters trembled.
Nevertheless he had somehow or other gained her affections; partly,
perhaps, by the regularity with which, upon all his visits to Paris
during the previous fifteen years, he had lodged in her house and
paid his bills; partly, doubtless, by the engaging familiarity with
which he helped himself from her snuff-box, and addressed her as
Maman Duchambre.
It was eight o'clock at night, and, contrary to his wont, Captain
Carcassonne, instead of contesting a pool at billiards in his
accustomed café, or occupying a stall at his favourite Palais Royal
theatre, was seated in his room, alone, a coffee-cup and a bottle on
the table beside him, the amber mouthpiece of a huge meerschaum
pipe disappearing under his heavy dark mustache, smoking steadily,
and reading the Sentinelle de l'Armée. He was a powerful active
man, about forty years of age, with a red-brown complexion, martial
features, and a cavalier air, in whom Algerine climate and fatigues
had mitigated, if it had not wholly checked, that tendency to
corpulence early observable in many French cavalry officers, for the
most part a sedentary and full-feeding race. Of a most gregarious
disposition, no slight cause would have induced the captain to pass
in slow solitude those evening hours, which, according to his creed,
ought invariably, in Paris, to dance merrily by in the broad light of
gas, and in the excitement of a theatre or coffee-house. Neither was
it, in his eyes, a trifle that had placed him, as he expressed it, under
close arrest for the evening. He was paying a small instalment of a
debt of gratitude, which many would have held expunged by lapse
of time, but which Carcassonne still remembered and willingly
acknowledged. Many years previously—within a twelvemonth after
his promotion from a sergeantcy in a crack hussar regiment to a
cornetcy in a corps of chasseurs, newly formed for African service,
and in which he had since sabred his way to the command of a
troop—Godibert Carcassonne, when on leave of absence at Paris,
had been led, by thoughtlessness and by evil associates, rather than
by innate vice, into a scrape which threatened to blast his prospects
in the army, and consequently in life, and of his extrication from
which there was no possibility, unless he could immediately procure
five thousand francs. The sum was trifling, but to him it seemed
immense, for he estimated it by the difficulty of obtaining it. Driven
to desperation, thoughts of suicide beset him, when at that critical
moment a friend came to the rescue. By the merest chance, he
stumbled upon a former school-fellow, a native of the same
department as himself, and his accomplice in many a boyish frolic.
They had not seen each other for years. When Carcassonne was
taken by the conscription, his schoolmate had already departed to
seek fortune at Paris, the Eldorado of provincials, and there, whilst
the smart but penniless young soldier was slowly working his way to
a commission, he had taken root and prospered. He was not yet a
wealthy man, but neither was he a needy or niggardly one, for, on
hearing the tale of his friend's difficulties, he offered him, after a few
moments' internal calculation, the loan of the sum on which his fate
depended, and gruffly cut short the impetuous expression of
gratitude with which the generous offer was joyfully accepted. The
loan was in fact a gift, for when, some time afterwards, Carcassonne
remitted to his friend a small instalment of his debt, scraped
together by a pinching economy that did him honour, out of his
slender pay, the little draft was returned to him, with the words,
"You shall pay me when you are colonel." And as all subsequent
attempts were met by the same answer, the money was still unpaid.
But never did loan bear better interest of gratitude. Carcassonne had
never forgotten the obligation, was never weary of seeking
opportunities of requiting it. These were hard to find, for his friend
was now a rich man, and there was little the dragoon could do for
him beyond choosing his horses, and giving his grooms valuable
veterinary hints, derived from his long experience of the chevaline
race in the stables of the 1st Chasseurs. Once only was he fortunate
enough to hear his benefactor slightingly spoken of at a public table
in Paris. That was a happy day for Carcassonne, and a sad one for
the offender, who was taken home a few hours afterwards with
pistol bullet in his shoulder.
The object of this devoted attachment on the part of the rough but
honest-hearted soldier, was not insensible to the sincerity and value
of such friendship, and returned it after his own fashion,—that is to
say, somewhat as the owner of a noble dog permits its
demonstrations of affection, and requites them by an occasional
caress. When Carcassonne came to Paris, which he did as often as
he could get leave of absence from his duties in Africa, his first visit
was always for his benefactor, who invariably got up a dinner for him
—not at his own house, which the dragoon would have considered a
tame proceeding, but at some renowned restaurant—a regular
bamboche, as the African styled it, where champagne corks flew and
punch flamed from six in the evening till any hour after midnight.
Then, the civilian's occupations being numerous, and his sphere of
life quite different from that of the soldier, the two saw but little of
each other, except through a casual meeting in the rich man's
stables, or on the boulevard, or when—but this was very rare—
Carcassonne was surprised in his room, at the Northern Eagle, by an
unexpected but most welcome visit from his friend, come to smoke a
passing cigar, and have ten minutes' chat over boyish days and
reminiscences.
These visits were a great treat to the captain; and it was the
anticipation of one of them that now kept him in his room. To his
astonishment, he had received that morning a note from his friend,
requesting him to remain at home in the evening, as he would call
upon and crave a service of him. Carcassonne was delighted at the
intimation, and not feeling quite certain when evening might be said
to begin, he shut himself up in his room at four o'clock, ordered in
dinner from a neighbouring traiteur, sipped his coffee in contented
solitude, and now awaited, with the dutiful patience of a soldier on
sentry, the promised coming of his friend. At last a cough and a
heavy footstep were heard upon the stairs; the captain took up a
candle, opened the door, and, stepping out into the gloomy corridor,
the light fell upon the tall ungainly figure, and sullen features, of
Sigismund Fatello.
"Come in, my dear fellow," cried Carcassonne in his stentorian tones,
and with a soldier's oath. "I've expected you these three hours.
What—wet? Snow? Come to the fire, and take a sup of cognac till
the punch is made."
It snowed heavily outside, and the banker's upper coat had caught a
few large flakes in crossing the court. He heeded them not, but
putting down, untasted, the glass of brandy handed to him by the
captain, he took a chair, and motioned Carcassonne to another.
"What the deuce is the matter with you, Sigismund?" said the
captain, looking hard at his friend. "Are you ill?"
"Better than I have for a long time been. Fresh from a wedding."
"Oho!" said Carcassonne. "I thought you had not put on full dress to
visit your old comrade in his den at the Northern Eagle. And whose
wedding was it?"
"A singular one," replied the banker, parrying the question.
"Strangely brought about, certainly. Would you like to hear its
history, Carcassonne?"
"By all means," said the captain, who always liked whatever Fatello
proposed. "But the business you came about?—you said I could do
something for you. What is it?"
"Plenty of time for that. It will keep. Let me tell you of this
marriage."
"Delighted to listen," said Carcassonne, settling himself in his chair,
and filling his pipe from a huge embroidered bag, once the property
of an Arabian Emir's lady, but which a razzia had degraded into a
receptacle for tobacco.
"You must know, then, Carcassonne," said Fatello, "that a friend of
mine, named Oliver, a man of middle age, more calculated to shine
in a counting-house than in a boudoir, was fool enough, not very
long ago, to fall in love with a beautiful girl, twenty years younger
than himself; and as he was rich, and her father avaricious, the
marriage was brought about, although not altogether with her good
will."
"Bad," quoth the captain, between two puffs of his pipe. "An
unwilling bride is apt to prove a sour wife."
"Once married," continued Fatello, without heeding his friend's
interruption, "Oliver, who knew he had not his wife's love, spared no
pains to obtain her friendship. He was not such a man, either by
person, manners, or temper, as women are apt to fancy; but, to
atone for his deficiencies, he covered her with gold, was the slave of
her caprices, forestalled her slightest wish. Her amusement and
happiness were the whole study of his life; and after a while his
efforts seemed crowned with success. She treated him as a friend,
and appeared contented with her lot. This was all he had dared to
hope, and, having attained this, he was happy. His existence, from
boyhood upwards, had been agitated and laborious, but riches had
rewarded his toils, and he could now look forward to a long period of
happiness and repose. At the very moment he indulged these visions
of a bright future, a single word, whispered in his ear by a physician
of high repute, crumbled the entire fabric. That word was
Consumption, and when he heard it he knew his doom was sealed.
His father, his elder brother, his sisters, all had been carried off, in
the prime of their strength, by the insidious disease, whose germ,
implanted in their system before they saw the light, was ineradicable
by the resources of art. The shock was severe—it could not be
otherwise—for most of the things were his for which men prize life.
But he was no poltroon, to pine at the approach of death; and he
nerved himself to meet like a man his inevitable fate. Although with
scarce a shadow of hope, he neglected no means of combating the
deadly malady; and, enjoining secrecy to his physician, he concealed
from every one his belief that his days were numbered and his race
wellnigh run. He was calm and resigned, if not hopeful, when he one
day received a letter that chilled his very soul. His wife, it told him,
loved another, whom she would meet that night at a masquerade.
Although anonymous, its indications were so precise, that Oliver,
spurred by fiercest jealousy, disguised himself and went secretly to
the ball. There he discovered his wife, in the company of a foreign
fopling, who, for some time previously, had been a frequent visitor
at his house. He kept near them, occasionally catching a sentence
confirmatory of his suspicions, until they withdrew from the crowd,
and sought a retired nook, where to converse uninterrupted. He
found means to secrete himself in their vicinity, and overheard—no
evidence of his dishonour, for then he had stabbed them where they
stood—but words whence he gathered the existence of the most
heartless, perfidious, and cold-blooded calculation.
"The wife of his bosom, to gain whose affection he had squandered
millions, and changed his very nature, impatiently awaited his death
to bestow her hand, and the fortune he should bequeath her, on the
smooth-tongued seducer whose arts had beguiled her. The secret of
his fatal malady had been divulged by the physician, to whom alone
it was known, in the hearing of this foreign adventurer, who, ever
upon the watch to redeem his broken fortunes by a wealthy
marriage, profited by the disclosure. He obtained an introduction to
Oliver's house, and applied every art and energy to gain his wife's
affections. He was but too successful. She listened to his
protestations, and on learning her husband's impending death,
pledged herself to become his, when she should be released by it
from ties she abhorred. All this, and more, Oliver gathered from their
conversation, to which he had the courage to listen to the end,
although each sentence went to his heart like a stab, leaving in the
wound the venom of hate and jealousy, to rankle there until the
latest moment of his life. What had you done, Carcassonne, had you
been in his place?"
"Pardieu!" said the captain, who had listened with profound
attention, and great expenditure of smoke, to his friend's narrative;
"I can hardly say, Sigismund. If I had kept my hands off the butterfly
scoundrel when I heard him courting my wife, I should have
followed him when he had had his chat out, and requested the
pleasure of crossing swords with him at his earliest convenience;
and had I got one good cut at him, he should not have needed
another. What did your friend?"
"Very nearly what you have said. He went home and destroyed his
will, and made another. Then he sought his enemy, to challenge him
to an instant encounter. The mean villain denied his treachery, and
swore that her to whom his vows of love were addressed was not
Oliver's wife, but his sister-in-law. Oliver well knew this to be a lie,
but he affected to believe he had been deceived by similarity of
dress and imperfect hearing, for the subterfuge had suddenly
suggested to him a sure means of punishing his faithless wife, and
defeating her seducer's aim. He declared himself willing to aid the
views of the foreigner—one Baron Steinfeld, an Austrian of high
family, but ruined fortunes—and to urge his sister-in-law to accept
his hand. Disagreeably surprised at such willingness, where he had
wished and expected opposition, Steinfeld strove to recede, but
found extrication impossible from the trap he had rushed into. Finally
he was compelled to yield; the less unwillingly because the bride
thus given him was not without fortune, which Oliver exaggerated,
the better to allure him. So that, when Oliver left him, it was to
convey his formal proposals to the lady, who was nothing loath, and
to-day they were married."
"To-day!" exclaimed Carcassonne. "This, then, is the wedding you
come from. And what said Madame Oliver?"
"What could she say? Made all the secret opposition she could, no
doubt; and then, finding it in vain, for her sister seemed as much
fascinated by the Austrian Lothario as she was herself, she took ill
and kept her bed. It needed all her woman's pride, and her fear of
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