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Round the silver domes of Lucknow,
Moslem mosque and pagan shrine,
Breathed the air to Britons dearest,
The air of Auld Lang Syne.
O’er the cruel roll of war-drums
Rose that sweet and homelike strain;
And the tartan clove the turban,
As the Goomtee cleaves the plain.
JOHN MASEFIELD
Spanish waters, Spanish waters, you are ringing in my ears,
Like a slow sweet piece of music from the gray forgotten years;
Telling tales, and beating tunes, and bringing weary thought to me
Of the sandy beach at Muertos, where I would that I could be.
The moon came white and ghostly as we laid the treasure down,
There was gear there’d make a beggarman as rich as Lima Town,
Copper charms and silver trinkets from the chests of Spanish crews,
Gold doubloons and double moydores, louis d’ors and ortagues.
We smoothed the place with mattocks, and we took and blazed the
tree,
Which marks yon where the gear is hid that none will ever see,
And we laid aboard the ship again, and south away we steers,
Through the loud surf of Los Muertos which is beating in my ears.
I’ th l t li th t k it All th th th i
I’m the last alive that knows it. All the rest have gone their ways,
Killed, or died, or come to anchor in the old Mulatas Cays,
And I go singing, fiddling, old and starved and in despair,
And I know where all that gold is hid, if I were only there.
It’s not the way to end it all. I’m old and nearly blind,
And an old man’s past’s a strange thing, for it never leaves his mind.
And I see in dreams, awhiles, the beach, the sun’s disc dipping red,
And the tall ship, under topsails, swaying in past Nigger Head.
KILMENY
(A Song of the Trawlers)
ALFRED NOYES
Dark, dark lay the drifters, against the red west,
As they shot their long meshes of steel overside;
And the oily green waters were rocking to rest
When Kilmeny went out, at the turn of the tide.
And nobody knew where that lassie would roam,
For the magic that called her was tapping unseen.
It was well nigh a week ere Kilmeny came home,
And nobody knew where Kilmeny had been.
We had now reached the summit of the loftiest crag. For some
minutes the old man seemed too much exhausted to speak.
“Not long ago,” said he at length, “and I could have guided you on
this route as well as the youngest of my sons; but, about three years
past, there happened to me an event such as never happened
before to mortal man—or at least such as no man ever survived to
tell of—and the six hours of deadly terror which I then endured have
broken me up, body and soul. You suppose me a very old man—but
I am not. It took less than a single day to change these hairs from a
jetty black to white, to weaken my limbs, and to unstring my nerves,
so that I tremble at the least exertion, and am frightened at a
shadow. Do you know I can scarcely look over this little cliff without
getting giddy?”
The “little cliff,” upon whose edge he had so carelessly thrown
himself down to rest that the weightier portion of his body hung
over it, while he was only kept from falling by the tenure of his
elbow on its extreme and slippery edge—this “little cliff” arose, a
sheer unobstructed precipice of black shining rock, some fifteen or
sixteen hundred feet from the world of crags beneath us. Nothing
would have tempted me to within half a dozen yards of its brink. In
truth, so deeply was I excited by the perilous position of my
companion, that I fell at full length upon the ground, clung to the
shrubs around me, and dared not even glance upward at the sky—
while I struggled in vain to divest myself of the idea that the very
foundations of the mountain were in danger from the fury of the
winds. It was long before I could reason myself into sufficient
courage to sit up and look out into the distance.
“You must get over these fancies,” said the guide, “for I have
brought you here that you might have the best possible view of the
scene of that event I mentioned—and to tell you the whole story
with the spot just under your eye.
“We are now,” he continued, in that particularizing manner which
distinguished him—“we are now close upon the Norwegian coast—in
the sixty-eighth degree of latitude—in the great province of Nordland
—and in the dreary district of Lofoden. The mountain upon whose
top we sit is Helseggen, the Cloudy. Now raise yourself up a little
higher—hold on to the grass if you feel giddy—so—and look out,
beyond the belt of vapor beneath us, into the sea.”
I looked dizzily, and beheld a wide expanse of ocean, whose
waters wore so inky a hue as to bring at once to my mind the
Nubian geographer’s account of the Mare Tenebrarum. A panorama
more deplorably desolate no human imagination can conceive. To
the right and left, as far as the eye could reach, there lay
outstretched, like ramparts of the world, lines of horridly black and
beetling cliff, whose character of gloom was but the more forcibly
illustrated by the surf which reared high up against it, its white and
ghastly crest, howling and shrieking forever. Just opposite the
promontory upon whose apex we were placed, and at a distance of
some five or six miles out at sea, there was visible a small, bleak-
looking island; or, more properly, its position was discernible through
the wilderness of surge in which it was enveloped. About two miles
nearer the land arose another of smaller size, hideously craggy and
barren, and encompassed at various intervals by a cluster of dark
rocks.
The appearance of the ocean, in the space between the more
distant island and the shore, had something very unusual about it.
Although, at the time, so strong a gale was blowing landward that a
brig in the remote offing lay to under a double-reefed try-sail, and
constantly plunged her whole hull out of sight, still there was here
nothing like a regular swell, but only a short, quick, angry cross-
dashing of water in every direction—as well in the teeth of the wind
as otherwise. Of foam there was little except in the immediate
vicinity of the rocks.
“The island in the distance,” resumed the old man, “is called by
the Norwegians Vurrgh. The one midway is Moskoe. That a mile to
the northward is Ambaaren. Yonder are Iflesen, Hoeyholm,
Kieldholm, Suarven, and Buckholm. Farther off—between Moskoe
and Vurrgh—are Otterholm, Flimen, Sandflesen, and Skarholm.
These are the true names of the places—but why it had been
thought necessary to name them at all is more than either you or I
can understand. Do you hear anything? Do you see any change in
the water?”
We had now been about ten minutes upon the top of Helseggen,
to which we had ascended from the interior of Lofoden, so that we
had caught no glimpse of the sea until it had burst upon us from the
summit. As the old man spoke, I became aware of a loud and
gradually increasing sound, like the moaning of a vast herd of
buffaloes upon an American prairie; and at the same moment I
perceived that what seamen term the chopping character of the
ocean beneath us, was rapidly changing into a current which set to
the eastward. Even while I gazed, this current acquired a monstrous
velocity. Each moment added to its speed—to its headlong
impetuosity. In five minutes the whole sea, as far as Vurrgh, was
lashed into ungovernable fury; but it was between Moskoe and the
coast that the main uproar held its sway. Here the vast bed of the
waters, seamed and scarred into a thousand conflicting channels,
burst suddenly into frenzied convulsion—heaving, boiling, hissing—
gyrating in gigantic and innumerable vortices, and all whirling and
plunging on to the eastward with a rapidity which water never
elsewhere assumes, except in precipitous descents.
In a few minutes more, there came over the scene another radical
alteration. The general surface grew somewhat more smooth, and
the whirlpools, one by one, disappeared, while prodigious streaks of
foam became apparent where none had been seen before. These
streaks, at length, spreading out to a great distance, and entering
into combination, took unto themselves the gyratory motion of the
subsided vortices, and seemed to form the germ of another more
vast. Suddenly—very suddenly—this assumed a distinct and definite
existence, in a circle of more than a mile in diameter. The edge of
the whirl was represented by a broad belt of gleaming spray; but no
particle of this slipped into the mouth of the terrific funnel, whose
interior, as far as the eye could fathom it, was a smooth, shining,
and jet-black wall of water, inclined to the horizon at an angle of
some forty-five degrees, speeding dizzily round and round with a
swaying and sweltering motion, and sending forth to the winds an
appalling voice, half shriek, half roar, such as not even the mighty
cataract of Niagara ever lifts up in its agony to Heaven.
The mountain trembled to its very base, and the rock rocked. I
threw myself upon my face, and clung to the scant herbage in an
excess of nervous agitation.
“This,” said I at length, to the old man—“this can be nothing else
than the great whirlpool of the Maelstrom.”
“So it is sometimes termed,” said he. “We Norwegians call it the
Moskoe-strom, from the island of Moskoe in the midway.”
The ordinary accounts of this vortex had by no means prepared
me for what I saw. That of Jonas Ramus, which is perhaps the most
circumstantial of any, cannot impart the faintest conception either of
the magnificence or of the horror of the scene—or of the wild
bewildering sense of the novel which confounds the beholder. I am
not sure from what point of view the writer in question surveyed it,
nor at what time; but it could neither have been from the summit of
Helseggen, nor during a storm. There are some passages of his
description, nevertheless, which may be quoted for their details,
although their effect is exceedingly feeble in conveying an
impression of the spectacle.
“Between Lofoden and Moskoe,” he says, “the depth of the water
is between thirty-six and forty fathoms; but on the other side,
toward Ver (Vurrgh), this depth decreases so as not to afford a
convenient passage for a vessel, without the risk of splitting on the
rocks, which happens even in the calmest weather. When it is flood,
the stream runs up the country between Lofoden and Moskoe with a
boisterous rapidity; but the roar of its impetuous ebb to the sea is
scarce equaled by the loudest and most dreadful cataracts, the noise
being heard several leagues off; and the vortices or pits are of such
an extent and depth, that if a ship comes within its attraction, it is
inevitably absorbed and carried down to the bottom, and there beat
to pieces against the rocks; and when the water relaxes, the
fragments thereof are thrown up again. But these intervals of
tranquillity are only at the turn of the ebb and flood, and in calm
weather, and last but a quarter of an hour, its violence gradually
returning. When the stream is most boisterous, and its fury
heightened by a storm, it is dangerous to come within a Norwegian
mile of it. Boats, yachts, and ships have been carried away by not
guarding against it before they were within its reach. It likewise
happens frequently that whales come too near the stream, and are
overpowered by its violence; and then it is impossible to describe
their howlings and bellowings in their fruitless struggles to disengage
themselves. A bear once, attempting to swim from Lofoden to
Moskoe, was caught by the stream and borne down, while he roared
terribly, so as to be heard on shore. Large stocks of firs and pine
trees, after being absorbed by the current, rise again broken and
torn to such a degree as if bristles grew upon them. This plainly
shows the bottom to consist of craggy rocks, among which they are
whirled to and fro. This stream is regulated by the flux and reflux of
the sea—it being constantly high and low water every six hours. In
the year 1645, early in the morning of Sexagesima Sunday, it raged
with such noise and impetuosity that the very stones of the houses
on the coast fell to the ground.”
In regard to the depth of the water, I could not see how this could
have been ascertained at all in the immediate vicinity of the vortex.
The “forty fathoms” must have reference only to portions of the
channel close upon the shore either of Moskoe or Lofoden. The
depth in the center of the Moskoe-strom must be immeasurably
greater; and no better proof of this fact is necessary than can be
obtained from even the sidelong glance into the abyss of the whirl
which may be had from the highest crag of Helseggen. Looking
down from this pinnacle upon the howling Phlegethon below, I could
not help smiling at the simplicity with which the honest Jonas Ramus
records, as a matter difficult of belief, the anecdotes of the whales
and the bears; for it appeared to me, in fact, a self-evident thing
that the largest ships of the line in existence, coming within the
influence of that deadly attraction, could resist it as little as a feather
the hurricane, and must disappear bodily and at once.
The attempts to account for the phenomenon—some of which, I
remember, seemed to me sufficiently plausible in perusal—now wore
a very different and unsatisfactory aspect. The idea generally
received is that this, as well as three smaller vortices among the
Faroe Islands, “have no other cause than the collision of waves rising
and falling, at flux and reflux, against a ridge of rocks and shelves,
which confines the water so that it precipitates itself like a cataract;
and thus the higher the flood rises, the deeper must the fall be, and
the natural result of all is a whirlpool or vortex, the prodigious
suction of which is sufficiently known by lesser experiments.”—These
are the words of the Encyclopedia Britannica. Kircher and others
imagine that in the center of the channel of the Maelstrom is an
abyss penetrating the globe, and issuing in some very remote part—
the Gulf of Bothnia being somewhat decidedly named in one
instance. This opinion, idle in itself, was the one to which, as I
gazed, my imagination most readily assented; and, mentioning it to
the guide, I was rather surprised to hear him say that, although it
was the view almost universally entertained of the subject by the
Norwegians, it nevertheless was not his own. As to the former
notion he confessed his inability to comprehend it; and here I
agreed with him—for, however conclusive on paper, it becomes
altogether unintelligible, and even absurd, amid the thunder of the
abyss.
“You have had a good look at the whirl now,” said the old man,
“and if you will creep round this crag, so as to get in its lee, and
deaden the roar of the water, I will tell you a story that will convince
you I ought to know something of the Moskoe-strom.”
I placed myself as desired, and he proceeded.
“Myself and my two brothers once owned a schooner-rigged
smack of about seventy tons burden, with which we were in the
habit of fishing among the islands beyond Moskoe, nearly to Vurrgh.
In all violent eddies at sea there is good fishing, at proper
opportunities, if one has only the courage to attempt it; but among
the whole of the Lofoden coastmen we three were the only ones
who made a regular business of going out to the islands, as I tell
you. The usual grounds are a great way lower down to the
southward. There fish can be got at all hours, without much risk,
and therefore these places are preferred. The choice spots over here
among the rocks, however, not only yield the finest variety, but in far
greater abundance; so that we often got in a single day what the
more timid of the craft could not scrape together in a week. In fact,
we made it a matter of desperate speculation—the risk of life
standing instead of labor, and courage answering for capital.
“We kept the smack in a cove about five miles higher up the coast
than this; and it was our practice, in fine weather, to take advantage
of the fifteen minutes’ slack to push across the main channel of the
Moskoe-strom, far above the pool, and then drop down upon
anchorage somewhere near Otterholm, or Sandflesen, where the
eddies are not so violent as elsewhere. Here we used to remain until
nearly time for slack water again, when we weighed and made for
home. We never set out upon this expedition without a steady side
wind for going and coming—one that we felt sure would not fail us
before our return—and we seldom made a miscalculation upon this
point. Twice, during six years, we were forced to stay all night at
anchor on account of a dead calm, which is a rare thing indeed just
about here; and once we had to remain on the ground nearly a
week, starving to death, owing to a gale which blew up shortly after
our arrival, and made the channel too boisterous to be thought of.
Upon this occasion we should have been driven out to sea in spite of
everything (for the whirlpools threw us round and round so violently
that, at length, we fouled our anchor and dragged it) if it had not
been that we drifted into one of the innumerable cross currents—
here today and gone tomorrow—which drove us under the lee of
Flimen, where, by good luck, we brought up.
“I could not tell you the twentieth part of the difficulties we
encountered ‘on the ground’—it is a bad spot to be in, even in good
weather—but we made shift always to run the gauntlet of the
Moskoe-strom itself without accident; although at times my heart
has been in my mouth when we happened to be a minute or so
behind or before the slack. The wind sometimes was not as strong
as we thought it at starting, and then we made rather less way than
we could wish, while the current rendered the smack unmanageable.
My eldest brother had a son eighteen years old, and I had two stout
boys of my own. These would have been of great assistance at such
times, in using the sweeps, as well as afterward in fishing—but,
somehow, although we ran the risk ourselves, we had not the heart
to let the young ones get into the danger—for, after all said and
done, it was a horrible danger, and that is the truth.
“It is now within a few days of three years since what I am going
to tell you occurred. It was on the tenth of July, 18—, a day which
the people of this part of the world will never forget—for it was one
in which blew the most terrible hurricane that ever came out of the
heavens. And yet all the morning, and indeed until late in the
afternoon, there was a gentle and steady breeze from the
southwest, while the sun shone brightly, so that the oldest seaman
among us could not have foreseen what was to follow.
“The three of us—my two brothers and myself—had crossed over
to the islands about two o’clock p.m., and soon nearly loaded the
smack with fine fish, which, we all remarked, were more plenty that
day than we had ever known them. It was just seven, by my watch,
when we weighed and started for home, so as to make the worst of
the Strom at slack water, which we knew would be at eight.
“We set out with a fresh wind on our starboard quarter, and for
some time spanked along at a great rate, never dreaming of danger,
for indeed we saw not the slightest reason to apprehend it. All at
once we were taken aback by a breeze from over Helseggen. This
was most unusual—something that had never happened to us before
—and I began to feel a little uneasy, without exactly knowing why:
We put the boat on the wind, but could make no headway at all for
the eddies, and I was upon the point of proposing to return to the
anchorage, when, looking astern, we saw the whole horizon covered
with a singular copper-covered cloud that rose with the most
amazing velocity.
“In the meantime the breeze that had headed us off fell away, and
we were dead becalmed, drifting about in every direction. This state
of things, however, did not last long enough to give us time to think
about it. In less than a minute the storm was upon us—in less than
two the sky was entirely overcast—and what with this and the
driving spray, it became suddenly so dark that we could not see each
other in the smack.
“Such a hurricane as then blew it is folly to attempt describing.
The oldest seaman in Norway never experienced anything like it. We
had let our sails go by the run before it cleverly took us; but, at the
first puff, both our masts went by the board as if they had been
sawed off—the mainmast taking with it my youngest brother, who
had lashed himself to it for safety.
“Our boat was the lightest feather of a thing that ever sat so upon
water. It had a complete flush deck, with only a small hatch near the
bow, and this hatch it had always been our custom to batten down
when about to cross the Strom, by way of precaution against the
chopping seas. But for this circumstance we should have foundered
at once—for we lay entirely buried for some moments. How my elder
brother escaped destruction I cannot say, for I never had an
opportunity of ascertaining. For my part, as soon as I had let the
foresail run, I threw myself flat on deck, with my feet against the
narrow gunwale of the bow, and with my hands grasping a ringbolt
near the foot of the foremast. It was mere instinct that prompted me
to do this—which was undoubtedly the very best thing I could have
done—for I was too much flurried to think.
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