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Yes Diy

The document outlines the components and schematic design for a guitar effect pedal named YES!, which aims to create a gated fuzz sound. It details specific resistor, capacitor, diode, and transistor values, along with notes on sound variations based on different components used. Additionally, it provides general wiring instructions and recommendations for input/output jacks and footswitch configurations.

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joel.gilardini
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16 views6 pages

Yes Diy

The document outlines the components and schematic design for a guitar effect pedal named YES!, which aims to create a gated fuzz sound. It details specific resistor, capacitor, diode, and transistor values, along with notes on sound variations based on different components used. Additionally, it provides general wiring instructions and recommendations for input/output jacks and footswitch configurations.

Uploaded by

joel.gilardini
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
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Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
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RESISTORS CAPACITORS DIODES

R1 1m C1 100n D1 BAT41
R2 1k C2 10n D2 BAT41
R3 10k C3 1u D3 1n5817
R4 2.2m C4 1u

R5 10k C5 1u TRANSISTORS

R6 100r C6 100uF Q1 PN2907


R7 100k Q2 PN2222
CLR 1K Q3 2N5089

HARDWARE ICs

SPLAT SPDT on/on IC1 LM386


MORE A100k
LOUD A100k
The goal for YES! was to take NO. and turn it into a more gated fuzz rather than an
octave fuzz. The schematic blocks are pretty much exactly the same except for YES!
having a regular pregain control rather than NO.s capacitor blend. Swapping to the
2n5089 in the boost stage and lower gain transistors in the multiplier give it much
more of a gated feel while the rectifier stage on the back end has been changed for
less octave and more general gaininess. With the Splat control taking out the
high-end cut early in the circuit it then allows for the gain to work on more harmonics
giving it that signature Mask Audio frenzy.
​
MOD NOTES​
Different LM386 sound different in this circuit. Because The rectifier section is not
being used for as much octave it's not quite as key as in NO. Still don't use a
LM386N-2 or N-3 Varient, those will still sound bad. LM386N-1 or N-4 will sound
good. I prefer the sound of the JRC NJM386, extra spicy.
​
R6 sets the amount of octave late in the circuit. NO. uses a 10K in the spot and gets
pretty sizzly. Experiment with values between 0 and 500k ohms. You could also just
wire this resistor as a pot if you just want more control over the octave.

C2 is a high-end cut before the gain for stability, play around with values between
470p-100n to taste.

Try all sorts of diodes for D1 and D2. To my ears, schottky diodes sound the best.
Most diodes will impart their own magic so it's worth socketing these and following
your ears. LEDs will not work for this application though.​
​
Transistors will vastly change the sound of the circuit. Most of your usual suspects
will work, 2n5089, BC550, 2n3904, ect. Just keep your pinouts in mind. Or don't, fun
things can happen with backwards transistors.
​
Play around with C3 between 100n and 10uF​
​
R7 is just limiting output volume. You can lower it if you want it to be louder, god help
your poor ears.​
​
General:
The round pads on the right and left of the board are for your input/output jacks (Tip),
while the Square pads are for ground (ring)
The two pads at the top of the board are for the DC input. Round is for positive and
square is for negative.
YES! will fit into a 125b or larger. I highly suggest using top mount jacks for simplified
off-board wiring.
The six bottom pads are as follows: Guitar in (I), Board in (BI), Cathode out (L+),
Ground (BG), Board Out (BI), Amp Out (O)

There are many different ways to wire a footswitch, this is just the way I use the most
often.

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