11/7/24, 12:18 PM Introducing: The Patek Philippe Cubitus Collection - Hodinkee
Introducing The Patek Philippe Cubitus
Collection
The first new collection from Patek Philippe in 25 years.
BENJAMIN CLYMER
450
O CTOBER 17, 2024
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11/7/24, 12:18 PM Introducing: The Patek Philippe Cubitus Collection - Hodinkee
T his isn't going to be an open letter – although it could be – because I
love Patek Philippe. Truly and sincerely – it is the brand by which all
other *haute horlogerie brands* are measured in my eyes for its ability to
shape-shift and bring collectors exactly what they want at times and push
things forward for so many years. Self-winding watches, perpetual
calendars, chronographs, repeaters – effectively all contemporary
complications have a basis in something that Patek Philippe was involved
with in a material way. And some of Patek's watches today are exceptional –
hell, I got married in a Patek Philippe. That's the type of brand that I think
Patek is.
Having said that, this isn't going to be a love letter, either. No brand is
perfect, and some of its recent choices aren't what I would expect or hope
of Patek today. Let's get into it. But I am just back from seeing the new
collection and speaking to Thierry Stern directly about this launch, so I
thought it was time to put some pen to paper, like back in the old days.
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11/7/24, 12:18 PM Introducing: The Patek Philippe Cubitus Collection - Hodinkee
Today, in Munich, the home of the 2013 Patek Philippe Grand Exhibition,
the world's most important high-end watchmaker unveiled its first new
collection in 25 years. This story will be a long one – because there's a lot to
say here. So bear with me and read this whole story before jumping to the
comments section to say how much you dont like it or why should anyone
care because you can't get one anyway, please.
Just The Facts: Introducing The Cubitus
Collection
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11/7/24, 12:18 PM Introducing: The Patek Philippe Cubitus Collection - Hodinkee
Here is what you need to know. The Cubitus Collection consists of three
models: two with time/date and one with a complex new big date
movement. Let's get into the facts first before we begin to analyze and
dissect.
Reference 5821/1A – Stainless Steel, Green Dial, Time & Date
Reference 5821A – A for "acier" or, in English, "steel."
Let's start with what will easily be the most in-demand model – reference
5821A. The A here stands for "acier," or steel, in English. You have a
bracelet that is every bit the Nautilus, complete with the updated micro-
adjustable clasp that was introduced on the 5811G – and a new square case
that features the same finishing format as the Nautilus. Specifically,
"vertical satin-brushed on the flat surface of the bezel, the top of the case
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and the side links of the bracelet; polished on the bezel chamfer, the sides
of the case middle and the central bracelet links." This allows for a subtle,
muted view from the top but for light and reflection to play with the watch
from the side.
The case is 45mm in diameter (but remember it's square, not round – so
traditional sizing notions go out the window) and just 8.3mm thick! That is
roughly the same thickness as the 5811G (8.2mm) and thinner than the
only remaining men's steel Nautilus in the collection, the 5712A at
8.52mm.
The dial is olive green and horizontally ribbed (embossed) with a sunburst
finish. Each hour marker is white gold and baton-shaped, just like the
hands, with white luminescent coating. There is date window at three
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11/7/24, 12:18 PM Introducing: The Patek Philippe Cubitus Collection - Hodinkee
o'clock that is also surrounded by white gold. The is a direct nod to the
"final" reference 5711/1A-014, a highly limited last run of the famed steel
Nautilus with green dial, which was shown in April of 2021.
Inside the Cubitus 5821A is caliber 26-330 S C, which is a new caliber based
on the 26-330; it was first introduced in 2019 in the Nautilus collection
and is now seen only in the 5811G. But this new derivation of the existing
time-only caliber from Patek has a bit of a party trick – it has a stop-
seconds feature. This means when you pull the crown, the seconds hand
stops! This allows one to set the time to the second. In vintage lexicon, this
is "hacking seconds," which is a bit of a nod to chronometry nerds – and I
think it is a bit of an Easter egg to people like me, who, well, care about this
kind of stuff.
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11/7/24, 12:18 PM Introducing: The Patek Philippe Cubitus Collection - Hodinkee
The caliber consists of 212 components, one of which is a 22k gold rotor
with Cubitus-specific horizontal ribbing. It is a 4 Hz movement, meaning it
beats at 28,800 semi-oscillations per hour. It has a power reserve of up to
45 hours.
It is important to note that the bracelet is integrated, not interchangeable,
as was rumored. Water resistance is 30m. The price of the 5821A will be
$41,243 and it will be available at retailers tomorrow – Friday, October
18th.
Reference 5821/1AR – Stainless Steel & Rose Gold, Blue Dial, Time &
Date
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11/7/24, 12:18 PM Introducing: The Patek Philippe Cubitus Collection - Hodinkee
The second model in the Cubitus collection is reference 5821/1AR, or the
same watch as above, here in a two-tone steel and rose-gold case and
bracelet. In this case, the bezel, crown, and central bracelet links are solid
gold, and the dial a deep blue.
The price here is $61,276, and like the steel model, will be available at
authorized retailers as early as tomorrow.
Reference 5822P – Platinum, Blue Dial, Instantaneous Grand Date, Day,
And Moon Phase
Okay. This is the one people are going to talk about. In fact people are
already talking about it, without really knowing what it is. This is a brand
new complication for Patek Philippe that includes a grand date at 12
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