Transcending Realities: Surrealism’s Influence on
Fashion
Isabella Ramos Polo
Fashion Investigation Module
Art History
Prof. Anna Rowe
Barcelona, Spain
November 7, 2023
Art can mirror and project the events that happen in our volatile society, and fashion is no
exception. There is a direct relation between both creative realms. This text will analyze the
correlation between fashion and art based on two surrealist paintings, “An Exceptional
Occurrence” by Eileen Agar and “Gypsy and Harlequin” by Remedios Varo.
Surrealism, a pivotal art movement of the 20th century, has wielded a profound influence among
many creative ambits extending beyond common artistic boundaries and challenging the limits of
human imagination. The origin of this manifestation is often attributed to André Breton, who, in
his “Surrealist Manifesto” of 1924 defined Surrealism as “pure psychic automatism” (Breton,
1924). Breton and other founding figures including poets like Paul Éluard and writers such as
Louis Aragon, sought to harness the power of the subconscious mind, believing that it held the
key to authentic and unfiltered creative expression.
Surrealism was the intellectual and artistic aftermath to the horrors of World War I and the
disintegration of societal norms. It emerged as a bold challenge to the rationalism and order that
dominated the art world. Such a reaction migrated far beyond the written world. Visual artists
like Salvador Dalí, René Magritte, and Max Ernst, among others, embraced the Surrealist ethos
and channeled it into their artistic endeavors. Nonetheless, one of the most notable and
empowering aspects of Surrealism is its impact on female artists during a time when the art
world was still predominantly male-dominated.
Eileen Agar, a prominent figure in British Surrealism, was preached for her innovative fusion of
traditional and avant-garde techniques in her works. Her Piece “An Exceptional Occurrence”
(1950) exemplifies her particular approach, where she merged human features with seashells to
create an enigmatic fusion of elements that invoked the subconscious. Through her art, Agar
challenged societal expectations and explored the complexities of identity and the human psyche.
Remedios Varo on the other hand, a Spanish/Mexican Surrealist, brought intricate symbolism
and dreamlike narrative to her works in “Gypsy and Harlequin” (1953), she wove a mystical
narrative in which a harlequin and a gypsy have an encounter in a fantastical landscape. Varo’s
attention to detail and symbolism blurred the lines between dreams and reality, creating a space
for introspection and creative expression.
Eileen Agar and Remedios Varo, transcended the constraints of their time, proving that
surrealism provided a liberating horizon for women to explore the depths of the subconscious,
challenge societal norms, and contribute to the broader conversation on gender and art in the 20 th
century.
The first piece of art chosen to further develop the statement that art and fashion are strongly
connected is “An Exceptional Occurrence” (1950) by Eileen Agar. In addition to what was
previously explained, Agar centralizes the focus of the piece into a woman’s head that’s merging
into a seashell. This metamorphosis symbolized a deep connection between the human form and
the mysteries of the ocean, alluding to hidden secrets and the enigmatic depths of the human
subconscious. Agar’s skillful use of painting and composition adds depth to the work, creating a
rich tapestry of symbolism. These diverse elements invite viewers to explore the surreal
environment, where boundaries between the conscious and the subconscious become blurred.
Curlicue
The swirling lines, mixed colors, intertwining patterns, and textures are strong visual resources
used by the artist to evoke an absorbing effect on the viewer. In the fashion horizon, these
elements are commonly used in maximalist styles and have transcended from being a trend, into
a timeless style.
Couture:
Rahul Mishra Spring-Summer 2021 Jean Paul Gaultier Fall-Winter 2022
In Mishra’s dress one can see the predominant mix of organic shapes and textures along with
warm colors and curlicue lines that resemble very precisely the effect of the painting. On the
other hand, there is Gaultier’s knitwear look, and the most predominant similarity with the
painting is derived from the patched and blocked way the pattern is placed along the garment.
Ready To Wear:
Cap_able Manifesto Collection
2022-2023
Missoni Spring-Summer 2011
In this category, one can evidence even more accurate representations of the curlicue element of
the painting. Missoni’s look beholds a highly interesting addition, which is the way an image is
distorted into the print, which cultivates an immersive abstraction into the garment. Furthermore,
the Cap_able knitwear represents a modern take on the artistic element. The Italian brand works
with artificial intelligence to create knitted patterns that when worn, make it impossible for a
system to detect your identity. It is a great representation of the clever and mindful use of
technology since it uses the help of artificial intelligence to create something against its invading
abilities. This resorts as a useful garment for celebrities or even regular individuals who want to
protect their identity.
Streetwear:
Nike AGC Collection Paris Fashion Week 2023
In streetwear, the maximalist elements of the painting come to life in more selective ways; taking
as an example the first image, the garment has a similar texture and color range, but it is
represented as a print, so it takes down in a certain range the intensity that the effect had when
portrayed in other materials. As for the second look, the use of material and color are similar, but
there is not as much pattern clashing as in other representations.
Eyes in fashion
The second trend chosen for Agar’s painting is the presence and representation of eyes in
fashion. It is a captivating example of how the world of fashion often draws inspiration from the
broader artistic and cultural milieu. The eye is also a recurring symbol of surrealism, it represents
themes of inner perception and the exploration of the hidden facets of the human psyche (Breton,
1924).
Couture:
Iris Van Herpen Spring-Summer
Schiaparelli Fall-Winter 2022
2017
This trend is more discrete in the Couture category, but it is evident that designers use it as a
strong resource in their collections. In Van Herpen’s look the portrayal of the eye is not explicit,
but rather minimal or geometrical as well as one of the eyes in Agar’s painting; As for
Schiaparelli, the house has used the eye as a staple in their designs since the beginning, mostly
for the narrative and symbolism that it reflects.
Ready To Wear:
Di$count Universe Sara Halpern 2023
In Ready to Wear, the “eye” resource is used much more freely; Di$count Universe uses it
regularly in sequin patches and repeatedly through the garments composing the look. In contrast,
Halpern’s design leaves room for more imagination when looking at the garment. The distorted
way that the racing jacket has become into a dress along with the “melting” appearance of the
eyes is a clear representation of surrealism.
Streetwear:
New York Fashion Week 2015
Leean Huang 2022
T-shirt by Chiara Ferragani
As previously analyzed with ready-to-wear, street style also reflects the use of eyes in an explicit
manner. In the first picture, one can see Ferragani’s iconic eye; this element has been taken by
several designers as their “differentiating” factor, and usually incorporate it in their designs as a
way to sign their work. Moreover, Leean Huang’s design is a highly surrealist representation, not
only of the way the eye print is repeated in a referential way to the Golconda Painting by Rene
Magritte (1953) but also because of the interactive element that it beholds. When in movement,
the eyes have the illusion of blinking because of the lenticular printed textile that the skirt is
made of.
The second painting that will be analyzed is “Gypsy and Harlequin” by Remedios Varo (1947).
This intricate composition has very peculiar characteristics that mesmerize the viewer. The use of
dimension and the capability of creating various scenarios at the same time shows a high
intellectual background and reflects the deep synergy between her artistic skills and the surrealist
movement.
Empty/Negative Space
The empty or “broken” spaces in the painting are used in a strategic way to draw attention to the
zones that aren’t necessarily dominated by the main characters. In addition, it acts as a suggestive
path for digesting the painting which allows the viewer to get immersed in the artwork in stages,
so each time one looks, there is the opportunity to find something new. Finally, the sense of
emptiness allows the viewer to use imagination as the remaining puzzle piece to interpret the
meaning in a relatable manner.
Couture:
Zuhair Murad Spring-Summer 2023 Maison Margiela Fall-Winter 2018
In this representation of the trend, the intention of suggesting a deeper context to the garment is
well developed by using the negative space. In Murad’s garment, the butterfly is placed elegantly
and subtly, softly whispering the context to the viewer. In Margiela’s look, the representation of
the de-constructed coat allows the viewer to notice a short jacket inside the actual garment. This
intention of a double view of reality is directly connected to the reinterpretation of the
environment that surrealism stands by.
Ready To Wear:
Commes Des Garçons Fall-Winter
Duran Lanktin Spring/Summer 2024
2016
In Ready To Wear it is even more common to find the use of negative space in clothing. The first
image shows a much more conceptual approach, yet it still manages to evoke a certain feeling of
“construction and deconstruction”. In the second image, the narrative comes from a more
minimalistic approach, while still communicating a message of introspection.
Streetstyle:
Valentino Fall/Winter 2021, worn Christopher Esber Resort Collection
by: Marjorie Harvey 2022
Streetstyle is the category in which this trend has developed into the boldest version of itself. It is
also quite interesting the way it is displayed in different materials. In the first picture, the trend
comes to life in a knitted sweater, in a rather heavy or thick fabric; In the second picture, the
trend is explored through a thin and elastic fabric, which hugs the body creating a seamless
appearance.
Loose/Hanging Threads:
In the “Gypsy and the Harlequin”, the loose threads of the gypsy’s dress serve as a compelling
surrealist element, intertwining the worlds of fashion and the subconscious mind. These
unraveled threads represent the fluidity and malleability of identity, which goes hand in hand
with surrealism. Just as this movement is centered on delving into the hidden depths of the
human psyche, the loose threads in the gypsy’s attire represent the unraveling of the ordinary
Couture:
Zuhair Murad Spring-Summer 2022 Iris Van Herpen Fall-Winter 2022
In this category, there is plenty of attention to detail, and meticulous work put into each element
of the garments. In the first image, the hanging threads are substantial and quite maximalist, in
contrast, the garment in the second picture represents lighter and more free-flowing strands. This
serves as a perfect metaphor in the surrealist context, revealing the broad spectrum of
bifurcations that one idea can have.
Ready To Wear:
Veronique Branquinho Spring-
Cristiano Burani Fall-Winter 2020
Summer 2016 Paris
In this case, the manifestation of the trend results to be more casual and careless, with the use of
thin strands, light colors and an organic aesthetic overall.
Streetwear:
Milan Fashion Week 2023
Interestingly, in this category one can see the creative load that the development of the trend has.
It transcended the obvious state of being a fringe, and became decorative, intentional and
complex.
In conclusion, this investigation has revealed the profound impact of Surrealism on the world of
fashion, where art and clothing intersect to shape our identities and expression. Surrealist
paintings like Eileen Agar's "An Exceptional Occurrence" and Remedios Varo's "Gypsy and
Harlequin" continue to influence contemporary fashion trends. This interplay goes beyond
aesthetics, challenging norms and empowering female artists. The enduring relationship between
art and fashion showcases how the extraordinary and the subconscious merge with our sartorial
choices.
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