GARMENT PRODUCTION

LEVEL – III
Based on Novmber 2023, Curriculum Version II

Module Title: Fabric cutting operation

Module Code: IND GAP3 M04 1123
Nominal durassions: 60 Hours

Prepared By: Ministry of Labor and skills

November, 2023
Addis Ababa, Ethiopia

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 Acknowledgement
Ministry of Labor and skills wishes to thank and appreciation for the trainers who donated their

effort and time to develop this Curriculum based TTLM for the TVET Program garment

production Level III. We also thank all Ministry of Labor and skills and coordinators, all

instructors who developed this TTLM for active facilitation of this TTLM development.

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 Table of Contents
Acknowledgement .......................................................................................................................... 5
Table of Contents ............................................................................................................................ 6
INTRODUCTION OF THE MODULE ......................................................................................... 8
Module Learning Instructions: ........................................................................................................ 8
UNIT ONE ...................................................................................................................................... 9
1.1 Workstation ................................................................................................................... 10
1.2 cutting machine minor maintenance ............................................................................... 5
1.3 cutting and spreading equipment..................................................................................... 6
Self-check-1 .................................................................................................................................... 9
UNIT TWO: .................................................................................................................................. 10
2.1 Fabric Lay-up ............................................................................................................. 11
2.2 Fabric check .................................................................................................................. 5
2.3 Minimize fabric fault .................................................................................................... 7
2.4 Fabric performance ......................................................................................................... 8
Self-check-2 .................................................................................................................................. 11
UNIT THREE ............................................................................................................................... 12
3.1 Marker Lay .................................................................................................................... 13
3.2 Cut order planning ......................................................................................................... 14
3.3 Pattern pieces Checking and collecting ...................................................................... 16
3.4 marker making............................................................................................................... 17
3.5 marker efficiency Calculation ......................................................................................... 5
Self-check-3 .................................................................................................................................. 11
UNIT FOUR ................................................................................................................................. 12
4.1 Position marker ................................................................................................................... 13
4.2 Place marker on lay ............................................................................................................. 15
Self-check-4 .................................................................................................................................. 17
UNIT FIVE ................................................................................................................................... 18
5.1 Follow OHS practices for fabric cutting ....................................................................... 19
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 5.2 Fabric cutting machine and equipment ......................................................................... 20
5.3 cutting operation ............................................................................................................ 21
5.4 Cutting quality and take an action ................................................................................. 22
5.5 Preparing cut work to next operation ............................................................................ 26
Self-check-5 ........................................................................................................................ 29
Operation Sheet ............................................................................................................................. 30
LAP TEST: ................................................................................................................................... 31
Reference ...................................................................................................................................... 31
DEVELOPER PROFILE .............................................................................................................. 33

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 INTRODUCTION OF THE MODULE
Cutting is the first step in garment manufacturing. It is a process of separating the fabric into
various components as per the garment design. The cutting operation is performed using a
variety of tools and equipment, such as shears, rotary cutters, and laser cutters.
The cutting operation is an important part of garment manufacturing. It is important to perform
the cutting operation correctly to ensure that the garments are produced accurately and
efficiently. This module is designed to meet the industry requirement under the irrigation and
drainage occupational standard, particularly for the unit of competency: Fabric cutting
operation
This module covers the units:
 Workstation
 Fabric Lay-Up
 Marker Lay and Position
 Work Complete
Learning objectives of the Module
At the end of this session, the students will able to:
 Prepare Workstation
 Understand Fabric Lay-Up
 Copy Lay and Position Marker
 Cut and Complete Work

Module Learning Instructions:

For effective use this modules trainees are expected to follow the following module instruction:
1. Read the information written in each unit
2. Accomplish the Self-checks at the end of each unit
3. Perform Operation Sheets which were provided at the end of units
4. Do the “LAP test” giver at the end of each unit and
5. Read the identified reference book for Examples and exercise

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 UNIT ONE: WORKSTATION FOR GARMENT PRODUCT
This learning unit is developed to provide the trainees the necessary information regarding the
following content coverage and topics:
 workstation
 cutting machine minor maintenance
 cutting and spreading equipment
This unit will also assist to attain the learning objective stated in the cover page. Spec ically,
upon completion of this learning guide, will be able to:
 Set up cutting workstation
 Perform minor maintenance
 Adjust cutting and spreading equipment

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 1.1 Workstation
When designing workstations for garment production, it is important to consider the spec ic tasks
and operations involved in the production process. Here are some key considerations for setting
up workstations in garment production:

A. Workstation: Arrange workstations in a logical sequence that aligns with the flow of
operations. Consider the order of tasks such as fabric cutting, sewing, pressing, and finishing.
Ensure that workstations are positioned to minimize material handling and operator
movement.

B. Space and Size: Allocate sufficient space for each workstation to accommodate the spec ic
tasks and equipment involved. Consider the size of the machines, the workspace required for
operators, and any additional tools or materials needed for the operations. Provide enough
space for operators to work comfortably and safely.

C. Ergonomics: Design workstations with ergonomics in mind to promote operator comfort and
productivity. Ensure that work surfaces, chair height, and equipment placement are suitable
for the tasks being performed. Provide adjustable chairs, footrests, and ergonomic tools to
minimize strain and fatigue.

D. Lighting: Ensure that workstations are well-lit to facilitate accurate and precise work. Use
natural lighting whenever possible and supplement it with appropriate art icial lighting to
minimize eye strain and ensure visibility of details.

E. Tool and Equipment Placement: Organize tools and equipment within easy reach of
operators, minimizing the need for excessive movement or stretching. Consider the
frequency of tool usage and arrange them in a manner that promotes efficiency and
productivity.

F. Material Handling: Design workstations to facilitate smooth material flow. Ensure that
materials are easily accessible to operators and that there is adequate space for storing and

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 organizing fabric, trims, and other related components. Use carts, bins, or racks to hold
materials within reach of operators.

G. Safety Considerations: Implement safety measures at each workstation to prevent accidents

and injuries. Make sure that machines are properly guarded, sharp tools are stored safely, and
operators are trained on safe work practices. Provide personal protective equipment (PPE)
such as gloves, safety goggles, and ear protection as necessary.

H. Flexibility: Design workstations with flexibility in mind to accommodate changes in

production requirements or the introduction of new garment styles. Use modular furniture or
adjustable work surfaces that can be easily reconfigured or adapted to d ferent tasks and
processes.

I. Communication and Collaboration: Create conducive environment for communication and

collaboration among operators. Arrange workstations in a way that allows for easy
interaction and coordination between team members, fostering a sense of teamwork and
efficiency.

Remember, the specie workstation design will depend on the nature of the garment production
processes, the available space, and the spec ic requirements of the production facility. It is
important to consider the unique needs and workflows of garment production operation when
designing workstations.

Workstation for fabric cutting

A workstation is a high-performance computer system that is typically used for demanding tasks
such as scientist computing, engineering design, and video editing. Workstations are typically
more powerful and expensive than personal computers, but offer better performance and
reliability

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 1. Choose a well-ventilated area:-This will help to prevent the inhalation of dust and fumes
from the cutting process.
2. Place a cutting mat on a flat work surface:-This will protect the surface from scratches and
cuts, and it will also provide a stable surface for cutting.
3. Position cutting tools within reach:-Make sure that tools are sharp and in good condition.
4. Put on safety glasses:-This will protect eyes from flying debris.
5. Place the fabric on the cutting mat:-Smooth out any wrinkles in the fabric.
6. Using rotary cutters: - Rotary cutters can be dangerous not used properly.
7. Surroundings and be aware of the other workers in the area: - Communicate with r co-
workers and let them know what are doing.
8. Keep the cutting area free of clutter: - This will help to move around safely and avoid
tripping hazards.
Workstation for garment making, need the following:
 A sturdy table or workbench  A sewing machine
 A comfortable chair  A serge (optional)
 Good lighting  An ironing board and iron
 A cutting mat and rotary cutter
 Scissors
 Pins
 Sewing needles  Seam ripper
 Thread  Other supplies (such as zippers,
 Measuring tape buttons, and elastic)

Some tips for setting up a garment making workstation:

 Choose a location for workstation that is well-lit and has plenty of space to work.
 Place sewing machine and serger on the table or workbench at a comfortable height.
 Position ironing board and iron nearby.
 Organize other supplies in a way that is convenient.

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 1.2 cutting machine minor maintenance
Performing regular minor maintenance on the cutting machine workstation in garment
production can help ensure a safe and efficient working environment. Here are some
maintenance tasks spec ic to the workstation:

A. Cleanliness: Keep the cutting machine workstation clean and free from debris. Regularly
remove fabric scraps, dust, and other waste materials from the cutting table, surrounding
areas, and floor. This helps prevent interference with machine operation and ensures a clean
and organized workspace.

B. Surface Maintenance: Check the condition of the cutting table or surface. Repair or replace
any damaged or worn-out sections to ensure a smooth and flat working area. the cutting
surface has markings or stains, clean or resurface it as necessary to maintain accurate cutting
measurements.

C. Workspace Organization: Maintain an organized workstation to optimize workflow and

minimize clutter. Ensure that tools, supplies, and materials are properly stored and easily
accessible. Use storage containers, racks, or shelves to keep items organized and within reach
of the operator.

D. Tool Maintenance: Regularly inspect and maintain the tools used at the cutting machine
workstation. This may include scissors, rotary cutters, rulers, or marking tools. Clean the
tools after use and ensure they are in good working condition. Sharpen or replace blades as
needed to maintain cutting accuracy.

E. Ergonomics: Pay attention to ergonomic considerations at the cutting machine workstation.

Ensure that the height of the cutting table or surface is appropriate for the operator's comfort
and working posture. Provide ergonomic cutting mats or anti-fatigue mats to reduce strain on
the operator's feet and body during long hours of cutting.

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 F. Lighting: Adequate lighting is essential for accurate cutting and to reduce eye strain.
Regularly check and maintain the lighting fixtures in the workstation. Replace any burnt-out
bulbs or adjust the lighting as needed to ensure proper illumination of the cutting area.

G. Electrical Connections: Inspect the electrical connections at the workstation, including

power cords, plugs, and outlets. Ensure that all connections are secure and free from damage.
Notice any loose connections or exposed wires; contact a quailed electrician for repairs.

H. Safety Measures: Regularly inspect and test the safety features at the cutting machine
workstation. This includes emergency stop buttons, safety guards, and machine sensors.
Ensure these safety features are functioning properly and provide adequate protection for the
operator. Any safety features are not working correctly, report it to the appropriate personnel
for immediate repair.

I. Operator Training: Provide proper training to the operators on workstation maintenance

and safety protocols. Educate them on the importance of maintaining a clean and organized
workspace and following maintenance guidelines. Encourage operators to report any
maintenance issues or concerns they observe at the workstation.

By incorporating these maintenance tasks in to regular routine, can help ensure a well-
maintained cutting machine workstation that promotes productivity, safety, and efficiency in
garment production.

1.3 cutting and spreading equipment

Cutting and spreading equipment play a crucial role in garment production, as they are
responsible for accurately cutting fabric and efficiently spreading fabric layers for cutting. Here
are some commonly used cutting and spreading equipment in garment production:
A. Cutting Machines: Cutting machines are used to precisely cut fabric layers according to
predetermined patterns. They can be manual, semi-automatic, or fully automatic. Common
types of cutting machines include straight kn e cutters, rotary cutters, and laser cutters. These
machines are equipped with sharp blades or lasers that can cut through multiple layers of
fabric simultaneously.
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 B. Spreading Tables: Spreading tables are large, flat surfaces where fabric layers are spread out
before cutting. They provide a smooth and even surface for accurate fabric alignment and
layering. Spreading tables are typically equipped with wheels or rollers, allowing for easy
movement of fabric rolls during the spreading process.
C. Fabric Spreading Machines: Fabric spreading machines automate the process of spreading
fabric layers onto the spreading tables. These machines unroll fabric rolls and spread them
evenly across the table. They can be operated manually or automatically, with features like
tension control and edge alignment to ensure proper fabric alignment and tension.
D. Conveyor Systems: Conveyor systems are often used in conjunction with cutting machines
to facilitate the movement of fabric layers during and after cutting. They consist of motorized
conveyor belts or rollers that transport the fabric from the cutting area to the next stage of
production, such as folding or bundling.
E. Cutting Tables: Cutting tables provide a dedicated work surface for fabric cutting
operations. They are designed to support the cutting machine and accommodate the fabric
layers being cut. Cutting tables are often equipped with gridlines, measurements, and
markers to assist with accurate fabric placement and cutting.
F. Pattern Digitizing Systems: Pattern digitizing systems are used to convert physical patterns
into digital format. They consist of digitizing tablets or scanners that capture pattern outlines
and software that converts the captured data into digital patterns. Digitizing systems
streamline the process of pattern creation and mod ication.
G. Pattern Grading Machines: Pattern grading machines are used to scale patterns up or down
in size. They automate the process of pattern grading, which involves adjusting pattern
dimensions to create d ferent sizes of a garment. Grading machines can save time and ensure
consistency in pattern scaling.
H. Cutting Room Software: Cutting room software is computer software spec ically designed
for garment production. It helps manage and optimize cutting operations by providing
features such as pattern nesting (arranging pattern pieces to minimize fabric waste), marker
making (creating cutting la ts), and production planning.

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 When setting up a cutting and spreading equipment workstation, it is important to consider the la
t, organization, and ergonomics of the equipment to ensure efficient workflow and operator
comfort. Additionally, regular maintenance and calibration of the equipment are essential to
ensure optimal performance and longevity.
Types of cutting and spreading equipment:

Band kn e 1

Round kn e

Straight kn e cutters 1

Rotary cutting machine: Water jet cutting

machine

Laser cutting machine:

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 Self-check-1
PART: I Say true or false

1. Set up workstation for fabric cutting is used to make the garment product.
2. minor maintenance in cutting machine is buying cutting machine
3. Safety glasses. This will protect eyes from flying debris.
4. Take breaks often to avoid fatigue.

5. Place a cutting mat on a flat work surface. This will protect the surface from scratches and
cuts, and it will also provide a stable surface for cutting.
PART: II short answer
1. Write Set up workstation for fabric cutting
2. List and explain minor maintenance in cutting machine
3. Adjust cutting and spreading equipment

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 UNIT TWO: FABRIC LAY-UP
This learning unit is developed to provide the trainees the necessary information regarding the
following content coverage and topics:
 Fabric Lay-up
 Fabric check
 Minimize fabric fault
 Fabric performance
This unit will also assist to attain the learning outcomes stated in the cover page. Spec ically,
upon completion of this learning objective will be able to:
 Interpret Lay-up instructions.
 Collect and check Fabric
 Take remedy action to minimize fabric fault
 Adjust fabric tension to match fabric performance.

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 2.1 Fabric Lay-up
Fabric lay-up refers to the process of layering or stacking multiple fabric plies on top of each
other in preparation for cutting. It is an essential step in garment production, as it ensures that the
fabric is properly aligned and ready for accurate cutting.
Fabric lay-up process:

1. Preparation: Before starting the fabric lay-up, ensure that the cutting table or spreading
table is clean and free from debris. Lay out the spreading table with a clean and smooth
surface.

2. Fabric Inspection: Inspect each fabric roll or batch for any defects, such as stains, holes,
or distortions. Remove any defective sections or mark them for repair or cutting
adjustments.

3. Spreading: Unroll the first fabric roll and align the selvedges or fabric edges. Position
the fabric roll at one end of the spreading table and secure it in place using weights or
fabric clamps.

4. Spreading Guidelines: Use spreading guidelines or markers on the spreading table to

determine the width and length of each fabric ply. These guidelines ensure that the fabric
is spread accurately.

5. Layering: Start spreading the fabric by unrolling it along the spreading table. Smooth out
the fabric and align it with the spreading guidelines. Carefully lay each subsequent fabric
ply on top of the previous one, ensuring that the selvedges or fabric edges are aligned.

6. Tension Control: Maintain proper tension while spreading the fabric layers to avoid
wrinkles or distortion. Pull the fabric slightly to remove any slack, but be careful not to
stretch it excessively.

7. Check for Alignment: Regularly check the alignment of the fabric layers during the
spreading process. Ensure that the selvedges or fabric edges remain aligned and parallel
to each other. Adjust the fabric as needed to maintain proper alignment.
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 8. Cutting Tickets or Markers: there are spec ic cutting tickets or markers for the
garment patterns, place them on top of the fabric layers at designated locations. These
markers indicate the position and orientation of each pattern piece for cutting.

9. Ply Marking: Mark each fabric ply with identification labels or markers to indicate the
ply number and any other relevant information. This helps in tracking and organizing the
fabric layers during the cutting process.

10. Final Inspection: Once the fabric lay-up is complete, perform a final inspection to ensure
that all fabric plies are properly aligned, free from defects, and ready for cutting. Make
any necessary adjustments before proceeding to the cutting stage.

Proper fabric lay-up is crucial for achieving accurate and efficient cutting results. It helps
minimize fabric waste, ensure consistent pattern alignment, and maintain the quality of the
finished garments. Following standardized procedures and maintaining attention to detail during
the fabric lay-up process can significantly contribute to the overall success of garment
production.

Fabric lay-up needs the following:

 Scissors or a rotary cutter

 Fabric
 Cutting mat
 Pattern pieces
 Measuring tape
Pins
1. Gather supplies:- Make sure that have all of the necessary supplies before begin laying up
the fabric.
2. Press the fabric:-This will remove any wrinkles and make it easier to lay up the fabric
accurately.
3. Identify the grain of the fabric:-The grain of the fabric is the direction in which the threads
run. The grain is typically marked on the fabric selvage.
4. Place the pattern pieces on the fabric:-Follow the markings on the pattern pieces to place
them on the fabric correctly.
5. Pin the pattern pieces to the fabric:-Use pins to secure the pattern pieces to the fabric.
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 6. Cut out the fabric pieces. Use scissors or a rotary cutter to cut out the fabric pieces along
the pattern lines.
7. Organize the fabric pieces: Group the fabric pieces together by garment type and size.

Additional tips for fabric lay-up:

 Using a directional print, make sure that all of the pattern pieces are placed so that the
print runs in the same direction.
 Using a stretchy fabric is sure to lay up the fabric pieces with the grain running in the
correct direction.
 Using a heavy fabric, may need to use weights to hold the fabric in place while are
cutting it.
 How to lay up a particular piece of fabric, consult a sewing book or ask for help from a
quailed seamstress.

2.2 Fabric check

Fabric checks are essential quality control procedures conducted to ensure the suitability,
integrity, and conformity of fabric before it is used in garment production. These checks help
identify any defects, flaws, or inconsistencies in the fabric that could affect the final product's
quality.
Common fabric checks performed in garment production:
A. Visual Inspection: The fabric is visually examined under proper lighting conditions to detect
any visible defects such as stains, holes, snags, colour variations, printing or weaving
inconsistencies, or other surface abnormalities. This inspection is usually done by trained
quality control personnel.
B. Colour Fastness Testing: Colour fastness refers to the fabric's ability to retain its colour
when exposed to various conditions such as washing, rubbing, light exposure, or perspiration.
colour fastness testing is conducted to ensure that the fabric's colour does not bleed or fade
excessively during normal use or care.

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 C. Dimensional Stability Testing: Dimensional stability testing assesses how well the fabric
maintains its original size and shape after exposure to various conditions like washing, dry
cleaning, or mechanical stress. Shrinking, stretching, or distortion beyond acceptable limits
can affect the garment's fit and appearance.
D. Fabric Weight and Thickness Measurement: Fabric weight and thickness are important
parameters that influence the garment's drape, hand feel, and overall quality. These
measurements are typically done using specialized instruments to ensure that the fabric meets
the required specifications.
E. Fabric Strength Testing: Fabric strength testing evaluates the fabric's resistance to tearing,
bursting, or breaking under controlled conditions. It helps determine whether the fabric is
strong enough to withstand normal wear and tear without compromising the garment's
durability.
F. Seam Slippage Testing: Seam slippage occurs when the fabric fibres pull apart along a sewn
seam, causing the seam to fail. Seam slippage testing assesses the fabric's resistance to seam
slippage, ensuring that the fabric can withstand the stress exerted on it during garment
construction and use.
G. Pilling Resistance Testing: Pilling refers to the formation of small, undesirable balls of fiber
on the fabric's surface. Pilling resistance testing evaluates the fabric's ability to resist pilling,
maintaining its appearance and smoothness over time.
H. Fabric Composition Analysis: Fabric composition analysis varies the fibre content and
composition of the fabric to ensure that it matches the specified requirements. It helps
prevent mislabelling or misrepresentation of the fabric's content.
I. Flammability Testing: Flammability testing determines how easily the fabric ignites and
how it behaves when exposed to a flame. This testing is crucial for ensuring that the fabric
meets safety standards and regulations, especially for garments intended for high-risk
environments.
Fabric checks are typically performed at different stages of the production process, including
incoming fabric inspection, in-process quality control, and final inspection before cutting or
sewing. By conducting these checks, garment manufacturers identify and address any fabric-

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 related issues early on, ensuring that only high-quality fabric is used, and the final garments meet
the desired standards of quality and performance.

2.3 Minimize fabric fault

To minimize fabric faults in garment production, it is important to implement effective quality
control measures and follow best practices throughout the manufacturing process.
Some strategies to minimize fabric faults:
1. Reliable Fabric Suppliers: Start by sourcing fabrics from reputable and reliable suppliers
known for their quality standards. Conduct thorough research, request fabric samples, and
assess the supplier's track record before making a decision. Working with trusted suppliers
reduces the risk of receiving faulty or substandard fabrics.
2. Incoming Fabric Inspection: Perform a detailed inspection of the fabric upon its arrival at
facility. Check for any visible defects, such as stains, holes, snags, or weaving
inconsistencies. Conduct fabric tests, including colour fastness, dimensional stability, and
strength testing, to ensure the fabric meets the required specifications.
3. Quality Control at Cutting Stage: Prior to cutting the fabric, conduct a thorough inspection
to identify any faults or defects. This includes examining the fabric for colour variations,
printing inconsistencies, or any other flaws that may affect the garment's final appearance.
Discard or segregate any faulty fabric to prevent it from being used in production.
4. Proper Fabric Handling: Handle the fabric with care to minimize the risk of introducing
faults. Train the personnel involved in fabric handling on proper techniques to avoid
snagging, tearing, or contaminating the fabric. Use appropriate equipment, such as fabric
clamps or smooth-edged tools, to prevent damage during spreading or cutting.
5. Regular Maintenance of Cutting Equipment: Ensure that cutting equipment, such as
blades or laser cutters, are regularly maintained and sharpened to prevent fabric damage
during cutting. Dull blades or improper settings can cause fraying, uneven cuts, or snags,
leading to fabric faults.
Operator Training: Provide comprehensive training to the operators responsible for fabric
handling, spreading, and cutting. Educate them about fabric faults, their causes, and how to

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 prevent them. Train them on proper cutting techniques, equipment usage, and quality control
procedures to minimize fabric-related issues.
6. Quality Control during Sewing: Implement quality control checkpoints during the sewing
process to identify and address any fabric faults that may arise during garment assembly.
Conduct regular inspections of sewn garments to catch any fabric-related issues before they
become widespread.
7. Continuous Improvement: Establish a culture of continuous improvement by regularly
reviewing and analysing fabric fault data. recurring issues and work with suppliers,
operators, and quality control teams to implement corrective actions and preventive
measures. Encourage feedback and collaboration to address fabric fault issues proactively.
By implementing these strategies, can minimize fabric faults and ensure that the fabrics used in
garment production meet the required quality standards. This, in turn, helps reduce fabric waste,
improve production efficiency, and enhance the overall quality of the finished garments.

2.4 Fabric performance

Fabric performance refers to the ability of a fabric to meet spec ic functional requirements or
standards when subjected to various conditions or environments. It encompasses a range of
characteristics that determine how well the fabric performs in terms of comfort, durability,
functionality, and aesthetics. Here are some key aspects of fabric performance:
A. Comfort: Fabric comfort is an important aspect of performance, especially for garments
worn close to the body. It includes factors such as breathability, moisture management,
thermal regulation, and softness. Fabrics that provide good comfort properties help the
wearer stay cool, dry, and comfortable in different climates or physical activities.
B. Durability: Fabric durability refers to its ability to withstand wear, tear, abrasion, and
repeated laundering without losing its structural integrity or performance properties. Durable
fabrics maintain their strength, shape, and appearance over time, ensuring the longevity of
the garment.

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 C. Moisture Management: Fabrics with good moisture management properties wick away
moisture from the body, allowing it to evaporate quickly. This helps to keep the wearer dry
and comfortable during physical activities or in humid conditions.
D. Breathability: Breathable fabrics allow air circulation, promoting ventilation and reducing
the build-up of heat and moisture. Breathability is particularly important in active wear,
sportswear, and outdoor garments, as it enhances comfort and helps regulate body
temperature.
Water Resistance/Waterproofness: Fabrics designed for outdoor or protective garments may
require water resistance or waterproofness to keep the wearer dry in wet conditions. Water-
resistant fabrics repel light rain or moisture, while waterproof fabrics provide a high level of
protection against water penetration.
E. Wind Resistance: Fabrics with wind resistance properties provide a barrier against wind
penetration. This is particularly important in outerwear or performance garments, as it helps
to maintain thermal comfort by reducing the effects of wind chill.
F. UV Protection: Fabrics with UV protection properties help to shield the wearer from
harmful ultraviolet (UV) radiation from the sun. UV-protective fabrics have a UPF
(Ultraviolet Protection Factor) rating, indicating their effectiveness in blocking UV rays.
G. Stain Resistance: Stain-resistant fabrics are treated to repel or resist stains, making them
easier to clean and maintain. This is particularly beneficial for garments that are prone to
staining, such as work wear or children's clothing.
H. Wrinkle Resistance: Wrinkle-resistant fabrics have properties that minimize the formation
of wrinkles, creases, or folds. They help garments maintain a smooth and wrinkle-free
appearance, reducing the need for ironing or pressing.
I. Fire Resistance/Fire retardancy: Fabrics used in certain industries or environments may
require fire resistance or fire retardant properties to minimize the risk of ignition or to slow
down the spread of flames. These fabrics are designed to resist or inhibit combustion and
comply with relevant safety regulations.
Fabric performance is influenced by various factors, including the fiber type, fabric construction,
finishing treatments, and intended use of the garment. Manufacturers and designers often

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 conduct spec ic tests and evaluations to assess and quant y the performance characteristics of
fabrics, ensuring that they meet the desired standards and requirements for their intended
applications.

Fabric tension to match

Adjusting fabric tension is an important step in garment production to ensure that the fabric is
properly aligned and secured during cutting and sewing. Matching the fabric tension involves
maintaining consistent tension across different fabric plies or layers to prevent distortion,
puckering, or uneven cutting.

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 Self-check-2
PART: I Say true or false
1. Lay-up fabric is the process of arranging fabric on a flat surface in preparation for
cutting.
2. The goal of lay-up is to arrange the fabric in the most efficient way possible, minimizing
waste and ensuring that the garment pieces are cut accurately.
3. Lay-up can be done by hand or using a machine.
4. Hand lay-up is typically used for large batches of garments.
5. Machine lay-up is typically used for small batches of garments.
6. The lay-up process typically involves the following steps: preparing the fabric, spreading
the fabric out on a flat surface, placing the marker on top of the fabric, securing the
marker in place, and cutting the fabric along the marked lines.
7. Lay-up machines are very accurate, which helps to reduce the number of defects in the
garment pieces.
8. Lay-up machines can help to reduce fabric waste by arranging the fabric in the most
efficient way possible.
9. Lay-up fabric for garment production is an important process that helps to ensure that
garments are produced efficiently and accurately.

PART: II short Answer

1. What are the different types of lay-up fabric?
2. How do different types of lay-up fabric affect garment production?
3. What are the different ways to lay up fabric?
4. What are the best practices for laying up fabric?
5. What are the common mistakes to avoid when laying up fabric?

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 UNIT THREE: MARKER LAY AND POSITION
This learning unit is developed to provide the trainees the necessary information regarding the
following content coverage and topics:

 Lay marker
 Cut order planning
 pattern pieces collecting
 marker making
 marker efficiency Calculate
Assessing quality standards This unit will also assist to attain the learning outcomes stated in
the cover page. Specially, upon completion of this learning objective, will be able to:

 Perform Cut order planning

 Check and collect pattern pieces
 Perform marker making
 Calculate marker efficiency

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 3.1 Marker Lay
Marker lay, also known as fabric marker placement, is a crucial step in garment production that
involves arranging and positioning fabric markers on the fabric layers before cutting. The marker
lay determines the efficiency of fabric utilization and affects the overall production cost. Here's
an overview of the marker lay process:
1. Marker Planning: Marker planning involves determining the most efficient la t of
pattern pieces on the fabric to minimize fabric waste and maximize fabric utilization.
This requires careful consideration of the pattern shapes, sizes, and quantities, as well as
any specific fabric characteristics or constraints.
2. Spreading the Fabric: Once the marker plan is established, the fabric is spread out on a
large cutting table or spreading machine. The fabric is smoothed and aligned to ensure it
lies flat and free of wrinkles or distortions. It is essential to follow the grain lines or fabric
alignment marks specified on the pattern to maintain the fabric's integrity and prevent
distortion during cutting.

3. Placing the Fabric Markers: Using the marker plan as a guide, fabric markers are
positioned on the fabric according to the desired pattern la t. Fabric markers are typically
made of paper or cardboard and represent the outline of each pattern piece. They are
placed strategically to fit as many pattern pieces as possible within the available fabric
area while maintaining the required seam allowances and pattern orientations.

4. Nesting and Optimization: Nesting refers to arranging the fabric markers in a way that
minimizes the wasted fabric space between them. Skilled marker planners carefully
position the markers, taking into account the fabric's width, pattern piece shapes, and any
pattern matching requirements. Advanced nesting software or computer-aided marker
(CAM) systems can assist in optimizing the marker lay to achieve higher fabric
utilization and reduce fabric waste.

5. Marker Verification: After placing the fabric markers, it is important to double-check

the accuracy and integrity of the marker lay. The pattern piece outlines and their

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 orientations should match the intended design and specifications. Any discrepancies or
errors should be corrected before proceeding to the cutting stage.

Efficient marker lay is critical to reduce fabric waste, optimize material usage, and improve
production efficiency. It requires a combination of skill, experience, and attention to detail. By
carefully planning and executing the marker lay process, garment manufacturers can minimize
fabric costs, improve production yields, and contribute to sustainable and cost-effective
manufacturing practices.

3.2 Cut order planning

Cut order planning is the process of determining the order in which garments will be cut from
fabric. This is done to minimize fabric waste and maximize production efficiency.
To perform cut order planning, will need the following information:
 The garment styles and sizes that need to be produced
 The quantity of each garment style and size
 The fabric width and length
 The pattern pieces for each garment style and size
 The seam allowances
Once have gathered this information, can begin to plan the cut order.
Here are some general tips for performing cut order planning:
 Start by grouping the garment styles and sizes together based on their fabric requirements.
 Within each group, arrange the garment styles and sizes in order of decreasing quantity.
 Place the largest pattern pieces on the marker paper first.

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  Place the remaining pattern pieces on the marker paper in a way that minimizes fabric waste.
 Be sure to leave enough space between the pattern pieces for seam allowances.
 Once are satisfied with the placement of the pattern pieces, trace the outlines of the pieces
onto the marker paper.
 Cut out the lay marker along the traced lines.
some additional tips for performing cut order planning:
 Using a computer-aided design (CAD) program, can use it to create a digital cut order plan.
 CAD programs can automatically generate lay markers that minimize fabric waste.
 Using a CAD program be sure to spec y the grain direction of the fabric so that the program
can place the pattern pieces accordingly.
 Once have created a digital cut order plan, can print it out and use it to cut out r fabric
pieces.
By following these tips, can perform cut order planning accurately and efficiently. This will
help to minimize fabric waste and maximize production efficiency.
Example of how to perform cut order planning:
 Group the garment styles and sizes together based on their fabric requirements. For example,
might have one group for all of the garments that are made from cotton fabric, and another
group for all of the garments that are made from polyester fabric.
 Within each group, arrange the garment styles and sizes in order of decreasing quantity. For
example, might have a group of cotton garments that includes 100 sizes small, 50 size
medium, and 25 sizes large.
 Place the largest pattern pieces on the marker paper first. For example, might start by
placing the front bodice piece on the marker paper.
 Place the remaining pattern pieces on the marker paper in a way that minimizes fabric waste.
For example, might place the back bodice piece next to the front bodice piece, and then
place the sleeve pieces around the bodice pieces.
 Be sure to leave enough space between the pattern pieces for seam allowances. Seam
allowances are typically 1/2 inch wide.

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  Once are satisfied with the placement of the pattern pieces, trace the outlines of the pieces
onto the marker paper.
 Cut out the lay marker along the traced lines.
Once have created the lay marker, can use it to cut out fabric pieces. To do this, simply place
the lay marker on the fabric and use a rotary cutter or scissors to cut out the pieces along the
drawn lines.
To draft a lay marker for a garment with a directional print, will need to follow the same steps
as drafting a lay marker for any other garment, with the additional step of making sure that all of
the pattern pieces are placed so that the print runs in the same direction

3.3 Pattern pieces Checking and collecting

Checking and collecting pattern pieces is an essential step in garment production that involves
verifying the accuracy and completeness of the pattern pieces before they are used in cutting and
sewing. Here's an overview of the process:
1. Pattern Piece Verification: Begin by carefully comparing the pattern pieces to the
corresponding design specifications or technical drawings. Check that the shapes, sizes,
and markings on the pattern pieces match the intended design. Ensure that the pattern
pieces have been properly graded if multiple sizes are being used.
2. Pattern Markings: Examine the pattern markings, such as notches, grain lines, seam
allowances, and placement marks. Verify that they are accurately indicated on the pattern
pieces. These markings are crucial for aligning the pattern pieces correctly during cutting
and sewing.

3. Pattern Numbering and Libelling: Check if each pattern piece is appropriately

numbered or labelled with its corresponding identifier. This helps to organize and track
the pattern pieces during the production process.
4. Pattern Quantity: Verify that the set of pattern pieces includes all the required pieces for
the specific garment style or size range. Ensure that no pattern pieces are missing or

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 duplicated. Cross-reference the pattern pieces with the cutting instructions or bill of
materials to confirm their completeness.
5. Quality Control: Inspect the pattern pieces for any physical defects, such as tears,
creases, or distortions. If any pattern pieces are damaged or compromised, consider
replacing or repairing them to ensure accurate cutting and sewing.
6. Organizing and Collecting: Once the pattern pieces have been checked and verified,
organize them in a systematic manner. Group the pattern pieces by garment style, size, or
any other relevant classification. Use appropriate storage methods, such as pattern
envelopes, plastic sleeves, or designated pattern cabinets, to protect and preserve the
pattern pieces.
7. Documentation and Record-Keeping: Maintain accurate documentation of the pattern
pieces, including the pattern numbers, garment styles, sizes, and any modifications or
alterations made. This documentation serves as a reference for future production runs or
pattern adjustments.
8. Pattern Maintenance: Regularly review and update the pattern pieces based on
feedback, design revisions, or changes in production requirements. Keep track of pattern
modifications and ensure that the updated pattern pieces are properly labeled and
documented.
By meticulously checking and collecting pattern pieces, can ensure the accuracy and
completeness of the patterns used in garment production. This helps to minimize errors, improve
production efficiency, and maintain consistent quality throughout the manufacturing process.

3.4 marker making

Marker making is a crucial process in garment production that involves creating the la t of fabric
markers on a marker paper or digital file. The marker serves as a guide for cutting the fabric and
plays a significant role in optimizing fabric utilization and minimizing waste. Here are the steps
involved in marker making:

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 1. Gather Pattern Information: Collect all the necessary pattern information, including
the pattern pieces, sizes, quantities, and any specific instructions or requirements
provided by the designer or client.
2. Determine Marker Width: Decide on the width of the marker, which is the distance
between the fabric edge and the outermost pattern piece on the marker. The marker width
depends on factors such as fabric type, cutting method, and desired efficiency.
3. Create the Marker Plan: Develop a marker plan that outlines the arrangement of pattern
pieces on the marker. Consider the fabric characteristics, pattern shapes, sizes, and any
pattern matching or directional requirements. The marker plan aims to maximize fabric
utilization and minimize waste.
4. Nest the Pattern Pieces: Nesting involves arranging the pattern pieces within the marker
boundaries to optimize fabric usage. Skilled marker makers strategically position the
pattern pieces, taking into account their shapes, sizes, grain lines, and any pattern
matching considerations. Advanced software or computer-aided marker (CAM) systems
can assist in optimizing the nesting process.
5. Optimize Fabric Utilization: Fine-tune the marker la t to achieve the highest possible
fabric utilization. Adjust the placement of pattern pieces, rotate them if necessary, and
modify the nesting arrangement to minimize the wasted space between the pattern pieces.
6. Consider Fabric Directionality: Take into account the fabric's directional properties,
such as the grain line or pattern motifs. Ensure that the pattern pieces are positioned
correctly to maintain the desired orientation and alignment when the fabric is cut.

7. Duplicate and Arrange Markers: If multiple markers are required due to the size or
quantity of the garments being produced, duplicate the marker la t and arrange them
accordingly. This allows for efficient cutting and production planning.
8. Add Cutting Instructions: Include essential cutting instructions on the marker, such as
the number of fabric plies to cut, any special cutting techniques, or specific areas to pay
attention to. These instructions provide guidance to the cutting room personnel.

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 9. Review and Finalize: Carefully review the marker la t to ensure accuracy and
completeness. Check for any overlapping pattern pieces, missing pieces, or errors in the
marker plan. Make necessary adjustments or corrections before finalizing the marker.
10. Document and Archive: Maintain proper documentation of the marker, including its
identification number, style, size range, and any modifications or updates made. Archive
the marker file or paper copy for future reference, reorders, or pattern revisions.
Marker making requires precision, attention to detail, and expertise in optimizing fabric
utilization. By following these steps, garment manufacturers can create efficient marker la ts that
minimize fabric waste, reduce production costs, and improve overall manufacturing efficiency.
Marker making, will need the following tolls:
 Pattern pieces
 Marker paper
 Rule
 Pencil
 Scissors
Key characteristics of marker making:
A. Efficiency: Marker making aims to maximize fabric utilization and minimize waste. A
well-optimized marker la t can significantly reduce material costs and enhance
production efficiency by utilizing fabric more efficiently. Efficient marker making helps
to decrease the number of fabric rolls required for production and minimizes the time
spent on cutting and handling fabric.
B. Precision: Marker making requires precision and accuracy. The marker must be created
with meticulous attention to detail to ensure that the pattern pieces are correctly
positioned, aligned, and nested on the fabric. Precision in marker making helps to
maintain the integrity of the garment design, size grading, and pattern matching
requirements.
C. Optimization: The process of marker making involves optimizing the arrangement of
pattern pieces on the marker to achieve the best possible fabric utilization. This includes
considering factors such as pattern shapes, sizes, fabric characteristics, grainlines, and
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 any specific requirements or constraints. Optimization techniques help to minimize fabric
waste and improve the overall efficiency of the cutting process.
D. Flexibility: Marker making allows for flexibility in adapting to different fabric widths,
pattern sizes, and garment styles. Marker la ts can be adjusted and customized based on
the specific requirements of each production run. This flexibility enables manufacturers
to efficiently utilize different fabric types and sizes, resulting in cost savings and
improved resource management.
E. Technology Integration: Marker making has evolved with the integration of advanced
technology and computer-aided marker (CAM) systems. These systems utilize software
to optimize marker la ts, automate nesting, and provide real-time fabric utilization
calculations. Technology integration enhances the speed, accuracy, and efficiency of
marker making, reducing human error and increasing productivity.
F. Collaboration: Marker making involves collaboration between different departments
within a garment manufacturing organization. Collaboration between pattern makers,
marker makers, designers, and production planners is essential to ensure that the marker
plan accurately reflects the design and production requirements. Effective communication
and collaboration contribute to the successful execution of marker making and its
alignment with overall production goals.
G. Continuous Improvement: Marker making is an iterative process that allows for
continuous improvement. Manufacturers can analyze and evaluate the outcomes of
previous marker la ts to identify areas for optimization and refinement. By learning from
past marker experiences, manufacturers can refine their marker making techniques and
achieve better fabric utilization and production efficiency over time.

3.5 marker efficiency Calculation

Marker efficiency is calculated by dividing the area of the pattern pieces used in the marker by
the total area of the marker. This is expressed as a percentage.
To calculate marker efficiency, will need the following information:

 The area of the pattern pieces used in the marker

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  The total area of the marker
To calculate the area of the pattern pieces used in the marker, can use a variety of methods. One
simple method is to trace the pattern pieces onto a piece of graph paper and then count the
number of squares. Multiply the number of squares by the area of each square to get the total
area of the pattern pieces.
To calculate the total area of the marker, simply multiply the length of the marker by the width
of the marker.
Once have calculated the area of the pattern pieces used in the marker and the total area of the
marker, can calculate marker efficiency using the following formula:
Marker efficiency = (Area of pattern pieces used in marker / Total area of marker) * 100%
For example, the area of the pattern pieces used in the marker is 100 square inches and the total
area of the marker is 150 square inches, then the marker efficiency would be 66.67%.
Marker efficiency is an important measure of the efficiency of the marker making process.
Higher marker efficiency indicates that less fabric is being wasted.
Tips for improving marker efficiency:
 Use a computer-aided design (CAD) system to create digital lay markers. CAD systems
can automatically generate lay markers that minimize fabric waste.
 Making a garment with multiple pieces, try to group the pattern pieces together based on
their size and shape. This will help to reduce wasted space in the marker.
 Be sure to leave enough space between the pattern pieces for seam allowances. However,
do not leave too much space, as this will waste fabric.
 Using a directional print, make sure that all of the pattern pieces are placed so that the
print runs in the same direction.
Marker
Marker is a thin paper on which all pattern pieces for all sizes for a particular style of garments
are drawn in such way that maximum fabrics will be used and fabric wastage will be minimum.

Objectives of Marker Efficiency:

-Examine how fabric utilization affects marker efficiency
-Enumerate the factors affecting material utilization
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 Marker efficiency is the important part of garments manufacturing. Direct cost of garments could
be utilized by marker efficiency. Salary of a marker planner truly depends upon the capability to
increase the marker efficiency.
Marker efficiency is determined by fabric utilization, the percentage of the total fabric that is
actually used in garment parts. The area not used in garment parts is waste. Marker efficiency
depends on how tightly the pattern pieces fit together within the marker. The total surface area of
the pattern pieces is compared to the total area of the marker to calculate the percentage of fabric
that is used. This is determined automatically by marker-planning software. marker-making and
marker planning technology is not available, the area of each pattern piece may be determined by
a perimeter – a mechanical device that calculates the surface area as the outline of the pattern is
traced. Factors that affect marker efficiency are fabric characteristics, shape of the pattern pieces,
and grain requirements.
Factors of Marker Efficiency
1. Fabric Characteristics 3. Grain Line Orientation

2. Characteristics of Pattern Pieces 4. Standards of Fabric Utilization

Standards of Fabric Utilization

Firms often establish fabric utilization standards. Firms producing basics may strive for 90 to 97
percent utilization, while fashion-firms may be able to achieve only 80 to 85 percent. It is
important for firms to document material utilization and variances from the standards to monitor
improvements or factors that impact the utilization. Better utilization is normally developed for
basic styles because optimum fabric widths are used consistently and more time invested in cut
planning and manipulating pattern pieces in the markers to reduce waste of materials. Markers
for basic styles are used to cut large volumes of piece goods and may be kept on file and used
repeatedly; thus, the time invested in improving utilization results in greater savings.
Markers for fashion styles and Quick Response strategies may be used only once or for a limited
number of spreads and few ply.

Fashion garments are subject to constant changes in styling and materials and tight deadlines that
limit the time available to develop efficient markers.
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 Total area of all the pattern pieces in the marker
Marker efficiency (η) = ………………………………………………………………x 100
Total area of the marker plan

The higher the marker efficiency, the lower will be the fabric wastage i.e. least fabric will be
required to make a definite number of garments. So increase in marker efficiency is very
important.

Factors on which marker efficiency depends on

1. Marker planner: Marker efficiency is largely governed by the experience, honesty,

sincerity and technological knowledge of the marker planner. It also depends on the
number of trials given for marker making.

2. Size of garments: more sizes of garments can be included e.g. S, M, L, XL, XXL for a
particular style in the marker, then more will be the marker efficiency.

3. Marker length: the marker length is higher, then marker efficiency will be higher. The
length of the marker is related with many factors but bigger marker length enhances more
production in the cutting room.

4. Pattern engineering: Marker efficiency can also be increased by changing or alternating

the patterns’ position in the marker.

5. Fabric characteristics: Marker efficiency will be higher for symmetrical fabric. But the
fabric is asymmetric then the marker efficiency will be less. the fabric is cheeked or
stripped then marker efficiency will be obtained less.
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 6. Marker making method: Marker efficiency will be higher for computerized method that
obtained in manual method. But the marker maker is highly experienced, then manual
method may enhance more efficiency.

7. Marker width: It has been found from experiment that the marker width is more, then
marker efficiency will be more because patterns can be placed in the marker easily. But
for tubular fabric, the above statement may not be correct.

8. Style of garments: The more large patterns and less small patterns for a particular style
of garments reduce marker efficiency and vice versa.

Marker efficiency formula

Formula using weight,

Weight of garment parts: To calculate weight of garment parts cut one layer of fabric
according to markers and weigh all garment parts that are included in a marker.
Weight of marker total area: Measure weight of fabric (one layer) of total marker area.
Example
1. the GSM of the fabric is 250 and we have spread it for a marker plan size of 1.40 meter
width and 5 meter length, the total weight of the cut and on a layer is 1.5Kg, then how
much its marker efficiency?
Hint: GSM = Weight /Area

We should calculate by Formula using weight, so,

Given:
GSM=250 Required
marker efficiency (η) =?
Marker plan size (total weight) = 1.40m X 5m=7m2
Total weight of the cut (pattern) =1.5Kg

Solution

GSM=W/A………….250g/m2=w/7m2
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 w=250g/m2 x 7m2= 1750g =1.75kg

Marker efficiency (η) =

x 100

(η)= x 100= 0.8571 x 100= 85.71 %

So, Marker efficiency (η) of the given calculation is 85.71% Efficient.

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 Self-check-3
PART: I Say true or false

1. Lay markers can help to reduce fabric waste by ensuring that the fabric is used as
efficiently as possible.

2. Lay markers can be created using computer software.

3. Lay markers can be used to cut multiple layers of fabric at once.

4. Lay markers are most commonly used in the apparel industry.

5. Computerized lay marking is becoming increasingly popular, as it allows for more

complex and efficient markers to be created.

6. Lay markers can help to reduce labor costs by automating the cutting process.

II Give short answer

1. What is the main purpose of a lay marker?

2. What are the two main types of lay markers?

3. What are the two main benefits of using lay markers in the apparel industry?

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 UNIT FOUR: COPY MARKER
This learning unit is developed to provide the trainees the necessary information regarding the
following content coverage and topics:
 Position and Copy marker
 Place marker on lay.
Assessing quality standards This unit will also assist to attain the learning outcomes stated in
the cover page. Specially, upon completion of this objective guide, will be able to:
 Checking a marker against requirements
 Checking marker and lay alignment
 Copying and maintaining a marker

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 4.1 Position marker
Position marker is a series of lines and symbols that are printed on the lay marker paper. These
lines and symbols indicate the position of the fabric on the marker, as well as the direction in
which the fabric should be cut. The position marker is typically located in the top left corner of
the lay marker. It should be clear and easy to read, so that the fabric cutter can easily understand
how to position the fabric on the marker.

To position a marker on a fabric cutting machine, follow these steps:

1. Place the fabric on the cutting table and smooth it out.

2. Place the marker on top of the fabric, aligning it with the desired cutting lines.
3. Use weights or pins to secure the marker in place.
Marker is centered on the cutting table and that it is not obstructing any of the moving parts of the
cutting machine.
The position marker is a small symbol that is placed on the lay marker to indicate where the
fabric should be placed on the cutting table. The position marker typically includes the following
information:
 Garment style
 Size

 Quantity

Example of how the position marker and copy marker could be used in the introduction of a lay
marker:
Position marker: Copy marker:
Style: T-shirt Style: T-shirt
Size: M Size: M
Quantity: 10 Quantity: 10
This lay marker would be used to cut 10 layers of T-shirt fabric, size M. The fabric would be
placed on the cutting table so that the position marker is aligned with the corner of the table. The
cutter would then use the copy marker to guide the cutting of the fabric.

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 Marker mode
 Nap-either-way (N/E/W): This type of marker mode is used for symmetrical and non-
directional fabrics, such as cotton and linen. The pattern pieces can be placed in any
direction on the fabric, as long as the grain line is followed.
 Nap-one-way (N/O/W): This type of marker mode is used for asymmetrical and
directional fabrics, such as velvet and corduroy. The nap of the fabric must be running in
the same direction for all of the pattern pieces in a garment.
 Nap-up-and-down (N/U/D): This type of marker mode is a variation of the nap-one-way
marker mode. It is used for asymmetrical and directional fabrics, but it allows for the
pattern pieces to be placed in two d ferent directions, as long as the nap is running in the
same direction for all of the pattern pieces in a garment.
The type of marker mode that is used will depend on the type of fabric that is being cut. It is
important to use the correct marker mode to ensure that the fabric is cut accurately and that the
garments are produced with a consistent quality.
In addition to the three main types of marker modes, there are also a number of other marker
modes that can be used, such as:

 Double-sided marker mode: This type of marker mode is used to cut fabric from both
sides of the roll. This can be useful for reducing fabric waste and improving cutting
efficiency.

 Multi-layer marker mode: This type of marker mode is used to cut multiple layers of
fabric at once. This can also help to reduce fabric waste and improve cutting efficiency.

 Nested marker mode: This type of marker mode is used to place the pattern pieces as
close together as possible to minimize fabric waste.

Copy and maintaining marker

The copy marker is a series of numbers and symbols that are printed on the lay marker paper.
These numbers and symbols indicate the number of times that each pattern piece should be cut.

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 The copy marker is typically located in the bottom right corner of the lay marker. It should be
clear and easy to read, so that the fabric cutter can easily understand how many times to cut each
pattern piece.

One simple method is to trace the marker onto a new piece of marker paper. also use a copy
machine to copy the marker. Using a CAD system, can simply create a copy of the digital lay
marker.

Once copied the marker, need to maintain it properly. This includes the following point:
 Storing the marker in a flat place
 Protecting the marker from moisture and dirt
 Repairing any damage to the marker
Not going to be using the marker for a while, it is a good idea to store it in a flat place. This will
help to prevent the marker from becoming wrinkled or damaged. Also protect the marker from
moisture and dirt by storing it in a plastic sleeve or envelope.
The marker is damaged, can try to repair it using tape or glue. However, the damage is severe,
may need to create a new marker.
Here are some additional tips for copying and maintaining markers:
 When copying a marker, be sure to copy all of the markings, including the pattern piece
names, sizes, and grain direction.
 When storing a marker, be sure to store it in a cool, dry place.
 Using a CAD system to create and maintain markers, be sure to back up r digital lay
markers regularly.
4.2 Place marker on lay
To place a marker on a lay, follow these steps:

 Prepare the lay by smoothing out the fabric and ensuring that it is flat and free of
wrinkles.
 Place the marker on the lay, aligning the edges of the marker with the edges of the lay.
 Use pins or weights to secure the marker to the lay.
 Cut out the fabric pieces along the lines of the marker.
Here are some additional tips for placing a marker on a lay:
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  Using a directional print, make sure that all of the pattern pieces are placed on the lay so
that the print runs in the same direction.
 Using a stretchy fabric, make sure that the pattern pieces are placed on the lay so that
the grain runs in the correct direction.
 Be sure to leave enough space between the pattern pieces for seam allowances.
 Unsure about how to place a marker on a lay, consult a sewing book or ask for help from
a quailed seamstress.

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 Self-check-4
PART: I Say true or false
1. The position marker is used to indicate where the fabric should be placed on the cutting
table.
2. The copy marker is used to indicate how many layers of fabric should be cut at once.
3. The position marker and copy marker should be placed in the same location on the lay
marker.
4. The position marker and copy marker symbols may vary depending on the spec ic lay
marker software or system being used.
5. The position marker and copy marker should be placed in a location that is easy for the
cutter to see.
PART: II Give short answer
1. What is the difference between the position marker and copy marker in a lay marker?
2. The copy marker indicates how many layers of fabric should be cut at once.
3. Where to place the fabric
4. How many layers to cut

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 UNIT FIVE : CUT AND COMPLETE WORK
This learning unit is developed to provide the trainees the necessary information regarding the
following content coverage and topics:
 OHS practices
 Cutting machinery and equipment
 cutting operation
 Cutting quality and taking an action
 Cut and Complete work
Assessing quality standards This unit will also assist to attain the learning outcomes stated in
the cover page. Specially, upon completion of this learning objective, will be able to:
 Follow OHS practices
 Operate cutting machinery and equipment
 Perform cutting operation
 Check cutting quality and taking an action
 Label cut works.
 Prepare cut work

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 5.1 Follow OHS practices for fabric cutting
Occupational health and safety (OHS) practices for fabric cutting are important to protect
workers from hazards such as cuts, abrasions, eye injuries, and exposure to dust and fumes.
Here are some OHS practices that should be followed in fabric cutting operations:
 Wear appropriate personal protective equipment (PPE). This includes safety glasses,
gloves, and a dust mask.
 Use sharp cutting tools. Sharp tools are less likely to slip and cause cuts.
 Keep the cutting area clean and free of clutter. This will help to prevent tripping and
slipping accidents.
 Be aware of surroundings. Be careful not to cut self or others with the cutting tools.
 Use a cutting board or other protective surface to protect work surfaces.
 Dispose of fabric scraps properly. Fabric scraps can be a tripping hazard and can also
catch fire.
Here are some additional OHS practices that can be followed in fabric cutting operations:
 Use a well-ventilated cutting area. This will help to reduce exposure to dust and fumes.
 Take breaks regularly. This will help to prevent fatigue and accidents.
 Report any accidents or injuries immediately.

Examples of how to follow OHS practices for fabric cutting:

 When using a rotary cutter, always keep the blade guard in place until are ready to make
a cut.
 When using a straight edge, make sure that it is held securely in place before making a
cut.
 When using scissors, make sure that they are sharp and that the blades are properly
aligned.
 When cutting fabric with a machine, make sure that the machine is properly guarded and
that the blades are sharp.
 When cutting fabric with a laser cutter, make sure that the machine is properly ventilated
and that the laser beam is properly enclosed.

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 5.2 Fabric cutting machine and equipment
Fabric cutting machines and equipment are used to automate and streamline the fabric cutting
process in the textile and garment manufacturing industry. These machines are designed to cut
fabric with precision, speed, and efficiency, reducing labor requirements and improving
productivity. Here are some commonly used fabric cutting machines and equipment:
A. Straight Knife Cutting Machine: This type of cutting machine features a straight,
oscillating blade that moves up and down to cut through the fabric layers. It is suitable for
cutting straight lines and curves and is versatile enough to handle various types of fabrics.
B. Round Knife Cutting Machine: Round knife cutting machines have a circular blade that
rotates and cuts through the fabric. They are particularly useful for cutting small radius
curves and are efficient for both straight and curved cuts.
C. Band Knife Cutting Machine: Band knife cutting machines utilize a long, narrow blade
that moves in a continuous loop. They are ideal for cutting straight lines, curves, and
intricate patterns. These machines are commonly used for cutting single-ply fabrics, such
as leather, foam, and technical textiles.
D. Die Cutting Machine: Die cutting machines use a die, which is a specialized cutting tool
with a specific shape, to cut fabric into precise shapes and sizes. The fabric is placed on a
cutting bed, and the die is pressed onto the material, resulting in clean, uniform cuts. Die
cutting machines are commonly used for cutting fabric for appliques, labels, and intricate
designs.
E. Laser Cutting Machine: Laser cutting machines use a focused laser beam to cut through
fabric layers. They offer high precision and can cut complex shapes and patterns without
the need for physical dies. Laser cutting machines are particularly suitable for delicate
fabrics and intricate designs.
F. Automated Cutting Systems: These systems integrate computerized software, cutting
machines, and material handling equipment to automate the entire cutting process. They
often include features such as pattern digitization, nesting optimization, and material
utilization tracking. Automated cutting systems can significantly improve cutting
efficiency, accuracy, and productivity.

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 In addition to the cutting machines themselves, fabric cutting equipment may include cutting
tables or surfaces, cutting mats, cutting guides or rulers, fabric spreading machines, fabric
tensioning devices, and computerized control systems.
The choice of fabric cutting machine and equipment depends on factors such as the type of
fabric, cutting requirements, production volume, and budget. Manufacturers often select the most
suitable equipment based on their specific needs to optimize the fabric cutting process and
achieve high-quality cut components.

5.3 cutting operation

Fabric cutting is an essential operation in the textile and garment manufacturing industry. It
involves the process of converting large rolls or bolts of fabric into individual garment
components or patterns. The cutting operation is typically performed after the fabric has
undergone various pre-production processes such as spreading, marking, and layering.
Here are the key steps involved in fabric cutting:
1. Spreading: In this step, the fabric is unwound from the roll and spread out on a cutting
table or surface. The fabric is laid in multiple layers to increase efficiency and optimize
cutting.
2. Marking: Prior to cutting, the fabric layers are marked with patterns or templates. These
markings indicate the outline and details of each garment component, such as sleeves,
collars, pockets, etc. Marking can be done manually using chalk or by using
computerized techniques such as automated fabric cutting machines.
3. Layering: Once the fabric is marked, the layers are carefully stacked on top of each other
according to the cutting plan. This step ensures that multiple garment components can be
cut simultaneously, reducing material waste and increasing efficiency.
4. Cutting: The marked fabric layers are cut along the outlines and details of the garment
components. There are various methods for cutting fabric, including manual cutting with
scissors or rotary cutters, as well as automated cutting machines equipped with computer-
controlled cutting heads. The choice of cutting method depends on factors such as the
volume of production, fabric type, and desired precision.
5. Sorting and bundling: After cutting, the individual garment components are sorted and
bundled together for further processing. This step ensures that the cut pieces are

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 organized and ready for subsequent sewing operations. It's worth noting that fabric
cutting requires skill and precision to ensure accurate and consistent results. Proper
maintenance of cutting tools and equipment is also crucial to avoid fabric damage and
achieve high-quality cut components.
Additionally, advancements in technology have led to the development of computerized fabric
cutting systems that use digital patterns and automated cutting machines. These systems can
improve cutting accuracy, speed, and material utilization while reducing labor requirements.
Overall, fabric cutting is a critical step in the production of garments and other textile products,
and efficient cutting practices contribute to the overall success of the manufacturing process.
To perform a cutting operation using a lay marker, follow these steps:
Before starting:
 Make sure the proper tools and equipment. This includes a sharp cutting tool, a cutting
board, and any other necessary safety gear, such as gloves or safety glasses.
 Inspect tools and equipment to make sure they are in good condition.
 Clear workspace of any obstructions.
 Make sure are well-lit and have good visibility of cutting area.
While cutting:
 Keep fingers away from the cutting blade.
 Use a steady, controlled motion when cutting.
 Do not cut too quickly or forcefully.
 Be aware of surroundings and be careful not to cut self or others.
After cutting:
 Dispose of any sharp or used materials safely.
 Clean up workspace.
5.4 Cutting quality and take an action
Fabric cutting quality refers to the level of precision, accuracy, and consistency achieved during
the cutting process in textile manufacturing. It is essential to ensure that fabric pieces are cut
according to the desired specifications to maintain product quality and minimize waste. Here are
the key concepts related to fabric cutting quality and actions that can be taken to address them:
To ensure cutting quality and take appropriate action, follow these steps:

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 1. Inspect the cutting tool: Examine the cutting tool being used for any signs of wear,
damage, or dullness. A sharp and properly maintained tool is crucial for achieving good
cutting quality. If the tool is worn or damaged, replace or repair it as necessary.
2. Check machine settings: Review the machine settings, such as cutting speed, feed rate,
and depth of cut. Ensure that they are set according to the recommended parameters for
the material being cut. Improper settings can result in poor cutting quality. Adjust the
settings if needed.
3. Material examination: Inspect the material being cut for any defects or irregularities that
could affect the cutting quality. Check for hardness variations, surface imperfections, or
contaminants. Make sure the material is properly secured and positioned for cutting.
4. Lubrication and cooling: Ensure that appropriate lubrication or cooling methods are
employed during the cutting process. Lubricants or coolants help reduce friction, heat,
and tool wear, resulting in improved cutting quality. Verify that the lubrication or coolant
systems are functioning correctly.
5. Monitor cutting parameters: During the cutting process, closely monitor the cutting
parameters, such as tool wear, cutting forces, and surface finish. Use measuring
instruments or sensors if available to gather data and evaluate the cutting performance.
6. Assess the cutting quality: Inspect the cut surface or edges of the workpiece to assess
the quality. Look for signs of roughness, burrs, chips, or any other surface defects.
Measure critical dimensions to confirm accuracy. Compare the results to the desired
specifications or standards.
7. Take corrective action: If the cutting quality is not satisfactory, identify the potential
causes of the issue. Consider factors such as tool wear, incorrect machine settings,
material properties, or inadequate lubrication. Take the necessary corrective actions to
address the problem.
 Replace or regrind the cutting tool if it is dull or damaged.
 Adjust machine settings to optimize cutting parameters.
 Verify the material properties and make necessary adjustments.
 Improve lubrication or cooling methods.
 Check for proper alignment and stability of the work piece.

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 8. Document and communicate: Record any observations, measurements, and actions
taken regarding the cutting quality. Communicate the findings and necessary actions to
colleagues, supervisors, or maintenance personnel as required.
9. Continuous improvement: Regularly review the cutting process and quality to identify
opportunities for improvement. Seek feedback from operators, monitor performance
trends, and implement changes to enhance cutting quality over time.
Remember that cutting quality can be influenced by various factors, and the specific actions to be
taken may depend on the situation. It's essential to have a good understanding of the cutting
process and consult with experienced personnel or experts when needed.
To check the quality of a cut should look for the following:

 Accuracy: The cut should be accurate, with no jagged edges or uneven lines.
 Consistency: The cut should be consistent across all layers of fabric.
 Completeness: The cut should be complete, with no missed sections.
Find any problems with the cut, should take the necessary action to correct them.
Here are some additional tips for checking cutting quality:

 Use a good quality rotary cutter and cutting mat.

 Cut with a sharp blade. A dull blade can produce uneven cuts.
 Use a straight edge to guide cuts.
 Cut slowly and carefully.
 Take breaks often to avoid fatigue.
Labeling cut works
Labeling cut works is an important step in organizing and tracking different pieces or
components after they have been cut. Here are some guidelines for labeling cut works
effectively:
1. Use clear and descriptive labels: Ensure that the labels clearly identify the cut works
and provide relevant information. Include details such as part numbers, job numbers, or
specific descriptions that help distinguish one cut work from another.
2. Label immediately after cutting: Apply labels to the cut works as soon as they are
finished to minimize the risk of mix-ups or confusion. Waiting to label them later may
lead to errors or difficulties in identification.
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 3. Use durable and legible labeling materials: Choose labeling materials that can
withstand the conditions of the work environment, such as exposure to moisture, heat, or
chemicals. Ensure that the labels are legible and won't fade or smudge easily.
4. Apply labels in a consistent location: Establish a specific area or location on each cut
work where the label will be affixed. This consistency makes it easier to locate and read
the labels consistently across all the cut works.
5. Include relevant information on the label: In addition to identifying the cut work,
consider including other pertinent information on the label. This could include the date of
cutting, the operator's initials, specific instructions, or any other details that may be useful
for tracking and processing.
6. Consider barcode or QR code labels: If applicable, use barcode or QR code labels for
efficient scanning and automated tracking. This can streamline inventory management
and improve traceability.
7. Maintain a labeling log or database: Keep a record of the labels applied to the cut
works, along with corresponding details such as quantities, specifications, or any
additional remarks. This log or database can serve as a reference for tracking and
managing the cut works.
8. Store labeled cut works properly: Ensure that the labeled cut works are stored in an
organized manner, preferably in designated bins, racks, or containers. This helps maintain
their integrity and makes them easily accessible when needed.
9. Train personnel on labeling procedures: Provide training to operators and personnel
involved in the cutting process to ensure they understand and follow the labeling
procedures consistently. This promotes a standardized approach and reduces the chances
of errors.
10. Regularly review and update labels: Periodically review the labels on the cut works to
ensure they remain accurate and up to date. Update or replace labels as needed, especially
if there are changes in specifications, quantities, or other relevant information.
By implementing these labeling practices, you can enhance the organization, identification, and
traceability of cut works, leading to improved efficiency and accuracy in subsequent processes.
There are two main ways to label cut works:

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 1. Hand labeling: This is the traditional method of labeling cut works. It involves using a
marker or pen to write the necessary information on each piece of fabric. This
information typically includes the garment style, size, and quantity.
2. Machine labeling: This is a more modern method of labeling cut works. It involves
using a machine to print the necessary information on each piece of fabric. This
information is typically stored in a computer file, which makes it easy to update and print
new labels as needed. Which methods choose to use will depend on septic needs and
preferences. Only cutting a small number of pieces, hand labeling may be the most
efficient option. However, are cutting a large number of pieces, machine labeling may
be the better option.
Here are some tips for labeling cut works:

 Use a permanent marker or pen are hand labeling.

 Write the information in a clear and concise manner.
 Make sure that the information is visible on both sides of the fabric.
 Machine labeling, use a high-quality label printer.
 Use durable labels that will not fade or peel off.
Here are some additional tips for labeling cut works:
 Use a consistent labeling system. This will make it easier to identify and locate pieces of
fabric.
 Label pieces of fabric that are similar in appearance. This will help to avoid confusion.
 Label pieces of fabric that are used in multiple garments. This will help to ensure that the
correct piece of fabric is used in each garment.
 Label pieces of fabric that are difficult to identify. This will help to avoid errors during
the sewing process.

5.5 Preparing cut work to next operation

Preparing cut work for the next operation, there are several steps you can follow to ensure an
efficient and accurate process. Here's a general guideline:

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 1. Review the work instructions: Familiarize yourself with the work instructions or
standard operating procedures (SOPs) for the next operation. Understand the
requirements, specifications, and any special considerations.
2. Gather necessary tools and equipment: Identify the tools, equipment, and materials
needed for the next operation. Ensure that everything is in good working condition and
readily available.
3. Inspect the work piece: Examine the work piece that will undergo the next operation.
Check for any defects, damage, or irregularities that may affect the process. If any issues
are found, document them and consult with the appropriate personnel.
4. Measure and mark: Take accurate measurements of the work piece as required by the
next operation. Use appropriate measuring instruments such as calipers, micrometers, or
gauges. Mark any reference points, lines, or dimensions needed for the upcoming cut.
5. Plan the cut: Based on the work instructions, determine the specific cut(s) required for
the next operation. Consider factors such as the type of cut, depth, angle, and any specific
techniques or guidelines provided. Visualize the process and plan your approach
accordingly.
6. Set up the cutting equipment: If the next operation involves using cutting tools or
machinery, set them up according to the manufacturer's instructions. Ensure that the
equipment is properly calibrated, adjusted, and secured. Follow all safety protocols and
wear appropriate personal protective equipment (PPE).
7. Verify safety measures: Double-check that safety measures are in place, such as
machine guards, emergency stop buttons, and proper ventilation. Confirm that you are
following all safety guidelines and procedures.
8. Organize the workspace: Arrange your work area to optimize efficiency and safety.
Remove any unnecessary items or potential hazards from the vicinity. Have a clear
workspace that allows you to perform the cut work without obstructions.
9. Communicate with the next operator: If there is a handoff between operators or shifts,
communicate important information about the work piece, any issues encountered, and
specific instructions for the next operation. Ensure a smooth transition and exchange of
information.

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 10. Perform a final check: Before starting the next operation, do final reviews of your
preparation. Verify that all necessary steps have been completed, tools and equipment are
ready, safety measures are in place, and you have a clear understanding of the upcoming
cut work.
Remember, these steps are general guidelines, and the specific process may vary depending on
the nature of the work and the industry you are in. Always refer to your organization's
procedures and consult with your supervisors or colleagues for any specific instructions or
requirements.
Additional tips for preparing cut work:
 Use a sharp rotary cutter to cut the fabric. This will help to ensure that the cuts are
accurate and clean.
 Use a cutting mat to protect work surface.
 Cut slowly and carefully to avoid errors.
 Label the cut work immediately after cutting. This will help to avoid confusion.
 Sort the cut work by garment style and size. This will make it easier to assemble the
garments.
 Bundle the cut work for each garment style and size. This will help to keep the cut work
organized and prevent it from getting lost.
 Attach a bundle ticket to each bundle. This will help to ident y the contents of the bundle
and track its progress through the production process.
 Store the cut work in a clean and dry location. This will help to prevent the fabric from
becoming damaged or soiled

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 Self-check-5
PART: I Say true or false

1. Cut work is the process of cutting fabric into pieces to create a garment.
2. Complete work is the process of sewing together the pieces of cut work to create a
finished garment.
3. Cut work should be inspected, labeled, sorted, bundled, and stored before beginning to
sew.
4. Cut work should be cut with a sharp rotary cutter.
5. Cut work should be stored in a clean and dry location.
PART II Give short answer
1. What are the two main types of cut work preparation?
a. Inspecting and labeling the cut work
b. Sorting and bundling the cut work
2. Why is it important to label cut work? To avoid confusion and errors during the sewing
process.
3. What are some tips for storing cut work?

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 Operation Sheet: Layup & cutting fabric
Note: complete the work by using necessary procedures or instruction to do the operation sheet
Materials selection
Task1:-select the cutting table
Task2:- select the cutting equipment & tools
Task 3:- select the fabric
PROCEDURES

TASK 1. Prepare the cutting table

TASK 2. Prepare the cutting tools & equipment’s
TASK 3. Spreading the fabric
TASK 4. Layup the marker on the spreading fabric.
TASK 5. Cutting the fabric according to the marker making
TASK 6. Bundling and ticketing the cutting fabric or component

QUALITY  To cut pattern of fabric should confirm with r

CRITERIA: analyze line
 The pattern should look like accurate, neat, and
complete.
 Necessary information and symbols should be
written on each piece of pattern.

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 LAP TEST: Layup & cutting fabric
Instruction: Given necessary templates, workshop, tools and materials are required to perform
the following tasks within 3 hours ፡-
PROJECT TITLE: Spread and cutting fabric
Geven time 5 hrs

Reference
 Mausmi A., “Fabric Utilization, Cut Order Planning”, Stitch World, June 2013.
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  [2] Elmira Dumishllari and Genti Guxho, “Impact of Marker on Cut Plan in Garment
Production”, International Journal of Innovative Research in Science, Engineering and
Technology, Vol. 4, Issue 8, August 2015.
 .
 [3] Harold Carr nd Barbara Latham, “The Technology of Clothing Manufacture”, Wiley
Publications.

Books:

 Smith, G. T. (2008). Cutting tool technology: Industrial handbook. Springer.

 Shaw, M. C. (2005). garment cutting principles. Oxford University Press.

 Juneja, B. L., & Sekhon, G. S. (2003). Fundamentals of metal cutting and

machine tools. New Age International.

Websites:

 National Institute of Standards and Technology (NIST) Manufacturing

Engineering Laboratory (MEL) (2023). https://www.nist.gov/el

 Society of Manufacturing Engineers (SME) (2023). https://www.sme.org/

 American Machinist (2023). https://www.americanmachinist.com/

Journals:

 American Society of Mechanical Engineers (ASME). (2023). Journal of

Manufacturing Science and Engineering. https://www.asme.org/publications-
submissions/journals/find-journal/journal-manufacturing-science-engineering

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 DEVELOPER PROFILE
No Name Qualification Educational Region College Mobile E-mail
background number
1 MELKIE ERKYIHUN MSC Garment Technology A.A Bole manufacturing 0925755581 [email protected]
college
2 ANDEBET ZEWDU MSC Garment Technology A.A Bole manufacturing 0931494269 [email protected]
college
3 DEMEKSA FIROMSA BSC Garment Technology Oromia Sebeta polytechnic 0917656793 [email protected]
college
4 FUFA DIRIBA MSC Garment Technology Oromia Adama polytechnic 0912006604 [email protected]
college
5 CHERU GEREMEW MSC Garment Technology Sidama Aleta wondo 0915612805 [email protected]
polytechnic college