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Winds drive, in great quantity meeting with the Shole, is broken into
Waves. The Eddies here are caused by the meeting of the different
Currents by which the Waters are sometimes carried N. and sometimes S.
the great danger is, lest they drive the Ship on either side. We have had
Lightning for seven or eight Nights together.
7. We sail'd by Ætna, now called Mongibel, where the Sea widens ten or
eleven Leagues over. Now we see plainly the Smoke briskly issuing out of
the Crater, the Limbus of which was all black. The uppermost part of the
Mountain was covered with Snow, except some streaks of Ashes, as we
judge, which lie as it were in a Gutter, spread here and there.
8. We espied a Saettia at about 3 Leagues distance, and making up to her,
found her forsaken. The Captain sent several Seamen on board, and carried
the Vessel to Smyrna.
Scanty Wind for several Days: and the Lightning still continued.
13. We were up with Cape Modona, the Southernmost Cape of the Morea,
and sailed by Coron. The Land very high, the Hills of Arcadia lying Eastward
from us. The Weather excessive hot at this time, as it is in England at
Midsummer. We espied from our Maintop-mast five Sail of great Ships,
which we supposed to be Tripolines, who did not think fit to come up and
speak with us. But afterward we heard for certain, that they were part of
the Venetian Fleet.
14. We lay for the most part becalmed over against Cape Matapan: but in
the Evening the Wind blowing fresh, we sailed between the Island of Cerigo
and the Main Land of Greece; it being about three Leagues over to Cape
Angelo.
15. We entred the Arches, and steered through the North Channel, leaving
Melo and Antimelo on the Starboard-quarter, at some Leagues distance.
16. Betimes in the Morning we were athwart Negropont, and sailed
between it and Andros. The Bocca lies S. W. and N. E.
17. We sailed by Chios or Scio, which is very mountainous toward the
middle. It is about four Leagues distant from Cape Caraboroun, or the Cape
of the black Nose, as the Turkish word signifies, which the Seamen, in their
usual way of corrupting Names, call Cape Jobbernoule, the Corinœum of
the Ancients, a Promontory of the famous Mountain Mimas, which runs
along the Southern side of the Bay of Smyrna.
This Day the Smyrna Fleet from England comes up to us very luckily, to our
great Satisfaction and Joy.
18. We are now got into the Bay of Smyrna, and come to an Anchor
without the Castle, not far from St. Jacomo's Point, as the Seamen call it,
or rather Sangiac Point. In the Afternoon the Consul, with several
Gentlemen of the Factory, came to wait upon my Lord Ambassador, and
desired his Lordship to defer his Entrance into Smyrna till the Twentieth,
that he might be received with greater Honour. That Evening we heard a
great howling of Jackalls upon the Hills.
20. The Consul with the Nation, accompanied with his Druggermen and
Janizaries in their Habit, together with several French, Dutch and Genoese
Merchants, residing in that famous Emporium, came to the Village near the
Castle, who there expected us with Horses. Upon our going ashore, the
Leopard fired fifty one Guns. We made about 140 Horse; and immediately
upon our setting forth, we rode for about three Miles together under the
Hill to the S. W. of Smyrna; the places adjoyning set thick with Olive, Fig,
and Almond-trees. Afterwards we clambered over some rocky Ascents; but
the Horses of the Country being sure-footed, we were in no danger of
falling. Some little way we were forced to ride on the Sea-shore, and soon
after came to the Jews burying place, whose Monuments lie flat upon the
ground. As soon as we entred into the City, we found the Streets full of
Greeks, Armenians, Turks, and Jews, whom Curiosity had drawn together
to see and observe our Cavalcade; the English Ships, which were in the
Bay, firing their Guns, as we past near the Shore. And so after three hours
riding the Ambassador was brought to the Consul's House, where Lodgings
were provided for him. During our stay we met with not only kind, but very
noble Entertainment from the worthy Gentlemen of the Factory.
Decemb. 8. We took our leave of Smyrna, being accompanied by the
Consul and Merchants on board the London-Merchant, Capt. John Hill
Commander, the Leopard being ordered to go no further than Smyrna, it
being feared in England, that if she had sailed up to Constantinople, the
Turks might have press'd her for their Service in Candia, which they were
then besieging.
9. This Morning we weighed betimes, and sailed between Scio and
Mytilene. But on the
10. We were forced back near the long Island within the Bay, being
unwilling to go to Scio, the Tripolines and Turkish Galleys lying there. Here
we lay ten Days, expecting a fair Wind.
20. The Wind coming about and favouring us, we sailed a second time
between Scio and Mytilene.
21. We past by Lemnos, and were up with the Island Tenedos; a fine
Champaign Country, only with one Hill toward the middle of it. The Castle
to the N. E. part of the Isle: over against which lye three small Islands in a
strait Line. Here we came to an Anchor. We saw the Ruins of Troas at a
distance, but did not think it safe to go ashore.
22. The Wind coming about at S. we entred the Hellespont, which may be
about two Leagues and a half over. The Castles built upon the opposite
points of Land, about 11 or 12 Years before, after the great Defeat given
the Turkish Armata at the Dardanels by the Venetians; Cape Janizary on the
Asian side; which, with the Philæum, makes a tolerable good Bay for
ordinary Vessels. The narrowest Strait of the Hellespont is at the two other
Castles, distant about six Leagues, where it may be about ¾ of a Mile
wide. These the Christians call the Dardanelli; at which are situate the
Towns, Sestus and Abydus, famous in Greek Poesie. These Castles we
saluted with our Guns and Trumpets, as we did the first: but each, whether
out of Pride, or out of Covetousness, to save the Grand Signior's Powder,
return'd us no more than two Guns. The Wind blowing very fair we sailed
into the Propontis.
23. We passed by St. Stephano's Point, where we had a full view of the S.
E. Angle of Constantinople, which being situated upon several Hills to a
mighty advantage, what with the Cypress-Trees intermixed, and what with
the gilded Spires of the Moschs, yielded us a very diverting glorious
Prospect. Passing by the Seraglio Point, which we saluted by a discharge of
several Guns, in the mid Stream between it and the Tophana, we came to
an Anchor.
26. On St. Stephen's Day the Ambassador landed at Galata, (having before
been visited by the Earl of Winchelsea, and the Merchants residing there)
and was received there by the Chiaus Basha and the Vaivod of Galata, the
Janizaries and Chiauses attending, and was waited upon by them to his
Palace: and soon after the Kaimacam, or Governor of Constantinople, sent
an Officer to Complement him upon his Arrival; the Grand Signior being
then at Larissa in Thessaly.
January 2. The Ambassadors, Old and New, went over to Constantinople,
that Morning being assigned by the Kaimacam to give them Audience, the
Chiaus Basha and other Officers attending at the Water-side to receive
them; Horses being brought thither for them and their Followers to mount.
This Kaimakam Jusuph, a little old Man, had formerly been a Page of the
Chamber, and chief Falconer, and afterwards Basha of Silistria. He
entertained the Ambassadors and their Company with Perfumes, Coffee,
and Sherbet, and distributed about fifteen Koftans Orrests among them:
after about an Hours stay they took their leave.
Being upon the Coasts of Greece about August or September 69. in the
Latitude of 35°. 53´. we found by our Azimouth Compass, that we had
Westerly variation there 5°. 22´.
The variety of Colours of the Sea-Water at several times chiefly depends
upon the Wind and Weather, and the reflexion of the Light upon it. It's
usual and most natural Colour is a deep Green: but in Cloudy and Rainy
Weather, the Surface of the Water appears blackish. On the Goodwins upon
the Tide of Flood, the Water was white, the Waves by reason of the
Shallows, meeting with opposition, and breaking into Foam, till the Flood is
well advanced. Sometimes the Water is of a perfect Azure colour, as we
observed for several Weeks in the Mediterranean. The Sun shining bright
upon the Water, sometimes the upper part of the Waves appears Purplish,
sometimes Reddish; though in Shallows perchance it may receive this latter
Tincture also from the Sands which lie under it. When the Wind has
freshened, and the Ship has been under full Sail, I have observed the
Waves to the head, and at the sides of the Ship, to appear with a pale kind
of brightness: and at Malaga, and at my return, going on board our Ship,
which lay about half a League from the shore, at Night, the Wind then at
East, the Boats Crew letting their Oar fall roughly into the Water, diverted
us as it were with the sight of a continued Flame, raised by their rowing;
which I ascribe rather to the Saline Particles of the Sea-Water, which were
then put into a violent Agitation, than to the Spawn of Fish, as some of our
Company imagined.
Sailing toward the West of Portland, we saw several Porpisces playing with
their Heads above Water; which I mention only, because the Seamen look
upon them as fore-runners of a Storm; the Wind soon after blowing very
hard at North by East. And afterwards arriving at Constantinople, the Wind
blowing a stiff Gale at North, I observed with a pleasing kind of
astonishment good part of the Propontis, that is, from the Seraglio Point
toward the Islands, which lye against the Bay of Nicomedia, Eastward and
South-East from us, as far as we could see, covered as it were with
Porpisces, which appeared every where in great abundance. So that I am
very apt to believe that Julius Solinus in Chap. 12. of his Polykister is to be
understood of Porpisces, and not of Dolphins, now properly so called,
though that be his Word, speaking of the Bosphorus and Propontis: Hæc
profunda Delphinas plurimos habent: and soon after, ante omnia nihil
velocius habent maria, sic ut plerunque transvolent vela navium. I could not
hear that any Dolphins are caught in those Seas by the Greeks, whose
Poverty, added to the love which their Nation has for Fish, and the
advantage arising thence, upon the account of their solemn Fasts and
Abstinences from all Flesh, even to a wonderful strictness and scrupulosity,
has made them excellent Fishermen: nor did I ever see any in their Fish-
Markets, or see one of them brought to the Ambassador's Table by the
Proveditor for curiosity: Though otherwise it is an excellently well tasted
Fish, especially when soused. I allow, that they will swim very swiftly, as do
the Porpisces; and that they will follow a Ship for several Leagues together:
but then they Swim somewhat deep in the Water, sometimes are catch'd,
though not often. The Seamen have reached them with a Fisgig, a kind of
barbed Iron, at the End of a Pole tied fast to a Rope, and have made good
Chear with them. But this is only my Conjecture, with which I end my
Journal.
Deo Servatori Laus.
torical Observations relating to
Constantinople. By the Reverend and
Learned Tho. Smith, D. D. Fellow of Magd.
Coll. Oxon. and of the Royal Society.
Constantinople, formerly Byzantium, was[1] by Constantine the Great,
called so after his own Name, who being mightily pleased with the beautiful
and advantageous situation of the Place between two Seas, and defended
by narrow Streights on both sides, removed the Seat of the Empire hither,
and laid the foundation of its future Splendor and Greatness. It was also by
a[2]special Edict or Law of the same Emperor, which he caused to be
engraven on a Marble Pillar, placed near his own Statue on Horse-back, in
one of the Piazza's of his new built City called Strategium, where the
Soldiers used to Muster, as in the Campus Martius, called second or new
Rome, in emulation of old Rome, which he designed and endeavoured this
should equal in all things. Accordingly he endowed it with the same
Priviledges and Immunities, and established the same number of
Magistrates and Orders of People, and divided the whole extent of it into
fourteen Precincts or[3]Regions, according to the division of Rome. And the
Greek Writers were as elegant and extravagant in their commendations of
it; but the usual Title in their ordinary Discourses and Writings, when they
had occasion to mention it without any flourish, was ἡ βασιλευούσα, ἡ
βασιλίς, that is, the Imperial City, to the same sense with that of[4]Sidonius
Apollinaris,

Salve sceptrorum columen, Regina orientis,

Orbis Roma tui.

The Country about it was afterwards called Romania in a limited and

restrained sense, (for that Romania was anciently the same with orbis
Romanus, seems clear from[5]Epiphanius) and the People Ρωμαῖοι. But I
suppose this was not done till about the middle times of the Empire, when
it began to decline. The Greeks still retain this Name. For if you ask any of
the Greeks born upon the Continent of Thrace, what Country Man he is? he
answers forthwith, Ρωμαῖος Romios, for so they pronounce it. The Turks in
like manner call a Greek Christian Urum Gaour, or the Roman Infidel, as
they will call sometimes the Emperor of Germany, Urumler Padisha or
Emperor of the Romans. Hence it was, that the latter Græcian Emperors
stiled themselves βασιλεῖς Ρωμαίων, Kings of the Romans, that is, such as
were Born in Romania and the other Countries, which made up the Eastern
division of the Empire. Tho' perchance by this flourishing Title they
pretended a right to the Government of the West: Upon which vain
presumption they assumed also the Title of Κοσμοκράτορες, or Emperors of
the World, as if they had been the true Successors of Augustus, and the
Western Emperors, Usurpers, whom they called by way of contempt and
indignation, Ρῆγες, Reges, as[6] Luitprandus informs us in the accompt of
his Embassy to Nicephorus Phocas, and afforded the People of Italy no
other Title than that of[7]Longobards or Lombards. The present Greeks call
all the Western Christians Λατῖνοι or φράγγοι Latins or Franks, the Turks
only making use of the latter, when they speak civilly of us, and calling
Christendom Phrenkistan, in the present Greek φραγγία. The Turks now as
proudly call Constantinople Alem pena, or the refuge of the World: Where
indeed seems to be a medley of all or most Nations of three parts of it, and
of all Religions, which are allowed to be publickly profest and exercised
every where throughout the Empire, except the Persian. For they look upon
it as a corruption of, and deviation from the Rules and Doctrine of
Mahomet, their great false Prophet, and therefore absolutely forbid it, as
repugnant to, and destructive of the Doctrine of Life and Salvation, as they
speak. And accordingly they condemn with all imaginable fury the
Professors of it, who pretend to follow Ali, as Sectaries and Apostates, and
entertain worse Opinions of them, than of Christians, or Jews or Infidels.
The Persians are not behind-hand with them in their hatred and disrespect,
deriding them as gross and stupid, and looking upon them as little less than
barbarous; Interest and Zeal for their several Tenets heightning their
differences so much, that in time of War they destroy one anothers Moschs.
I remember, that there was a great Discourse in Constantinople among the
Turks concerning an impudent hot-headed Persian, who publickly in the
new Mosch built by the Mother of the present Emperor, asserted that Ali
was equal to Mahomet. But it seems he very luckily made his escape out of
their Hands, at which the Priests and the more zealous Turks were very
much scandalized.
The Greeks have twenty six Churches within the Walls of the City, besides 6
in Galata, of which I have given an Account elsewhere. They have also two
Churches at Scutari, one at Kadikui or Chalcedon. So at Staurosis,
Chingilkui, and several other Villages upon the Asian Shore off the
Bosphorus, as at Beshictash, Ortakui, Chorouch chesme, which Church is
dedicated to St. Michal the Archangel, Jenikui or Neochorion, Therapia,
Bujukdere, and other Villages on the European side. They have also a
Church at Haskui, where is their Burying place, and another near the
Bagnio, dedicated to St. Parasceve. And at Tatoula about a Mile from Pera,
upon a Hill, which from the Name of the Church is thence called by the
Greeks and Franks, St. Demetrius his Hill. Next to the holy Virgin, St.
Demetrius and St. George have most Churches dedicated to them.
The Armenians have not, if I remember aright, above seven Churches; they
being few in number in comparison of the Greeks.
The Jews may have in the City and places adjacent between twenty and
thirty Synagogues, this being the greatest shelter of that accursed
contemptible People in the Grand Signiors Dominions, next to Caire and
Saloniki: and I believe there may be about twenty or thirty thousand
families of them. They are of great use and service to the Turks, upon
accompt of their Brocage and Merchandise, and Industry in several
mechanical Trades. All these I look upon as Natives, or Slaves rather, each
paying mony for his Head every year. The Jews indeed very wisely collect
this Tax among themselves, and according to an agreement made with the
Teftardar or Treasurer, pay a certain sum in gross for their whole Nation
residing there: by which piece of cunning they are great gainers, and spare
the poor among them less able to pay, by a contribution of the rich to make
up the sum. The English and Dutch Ambassadors have their Chappels in
their Palaces common to their respective Nations.
The Churches and Chappels of the Western Christians of the Roman
Communion in Galata, are
St. Peters, belonging to the Dominicans, where is the famous piece of
Madonna di Constantinopolis as the Italians call it, or of the blessed Virgin,
holding the holy Child Jesus in her arms: which they pretend to be drawn
by the hand of St. Luke, celebrated by some of the latter Ecclesiastical
Writers to have been a famous Painter. Out of respect to this idle tradition
the credulous and superstitious Latins and Greeks of the Roman
Communion shew great veneration to it, which otherwise hath little in it of
proportion, art, or beauty, to derive any reputation upon the designer, or
upon his work.
St. Francis, belonging to the Conventuali, Friars of the order of St. Francis;
the ground of this by the wise conduct and intercession of Caviliere Molino,
the Venetian Bailo, after the surrender of Candia, upon the Peace made by
the Republick with the Grand Signior, was procured to be restored, and a
handsome Church rebuilt with the large contributions of mony sent out of
Christendom.
St. Benedict, belonging to the Jesuits, where is a rich Altar curiously
adorn'd with several figures in Mosiack. This Convent was purchased for
them by their great Benefactor, Henry the fourth of France.
St. Mary, belonging to the Observantines or Zoccolanti, a branch of the
order of St. Francis, so called from their going in Zoccoli or wooden clogs.
The Capuchines have a little Chappel dedicated to St. George, hard by the
French Ambassadors Palace.
St. Ann, a Chappel frequented by the Perotes.
St. Paul and St. Anthony, were both taken away some years since from the
Christians, and turned into Moschs. The former of which is now known by
the name of Arab Giamesi, or the Mosch of the Arabians. Our Interpreters
mentioned also to me the Church of St. John, which the Turks have seized
upon for their use, St. George, which the Jews are possest of, and St.
Sebastian, which was used to be visited chiefly on Holy days.
The North-wind blows for the most part at Constantinople. Which must be
ascribed to its nearness to the Euxine Sea, which bears that point from it.
So that for want of a Southwardly wind Ships have been forced to lye a
month or two sometimes near the mouth of the Hellespont. This was taken
notice of long since by Eunapius in the life of Ædesius, who ascribes the
seldom blowing of the South wind to the situation of the mountains,
whereas it is checked and overpowered by the exuberance of the Vapours
continually sent forth from the black and great Sea, as the Greeks call it in
comparison of the Mediterranean. Vide ad finem Codini de origin.
Constantinopol. Edit. Paris. Pag. 80.
The Hellespont is about forty miles in length, and at the Castles of Sestos
and Abydos the streight may be about three quarters of an English mile
over, or less.
The length of the Propontis is about a hundred and fifty miles, both shores
may be seen in the middle of it. In it are,
Cyzicus, an Island near the Asian shore, to which it is joined by two
bridges. It still retains its ancient name Κυζικὸ, and is the seat of a Bishop,
being inhabited by a considerable number of Greeks.
Proconnesus, not far from the former; now, as for some centuries past,
called Marmora, from the excellent quarries of Marble there found, the
marmor Cyzenicum also being famous in the time of Pliny.
Besbychus, now called by the Greek καλόλιμνο, or the good haven, not far
from the entrance into the bay of Montanea to the North and by East. The
Turks call it Imralme.
There are several Islands over against the bay of Nicomedia, formerly
called Sinus Astacenus, according to Strabo, about six or seven leagues
from Constantinople.[8]
Prote, so called because they approach first to it, coming from
Constantinople; to the South of this Prencipe and Pytis, which I take to be
the same with Pyrgos, that lyes inmost toward the bay: Chalcitis, in modern
Greek, Chalce or Chalcis. Oxia and Platy to the North-west. I have
expressed the Turkish names of the lesser and uninhabited islands
elsewhere, which perchance were phantastically imposed by some Franks.
The Seraglio is at the extreme point of the North-east Angle of
Constantinople, where formerly stood old Byzantium, within which towards
the Haven is a stately Kiosk or summer house, from whence the Grand
Signior usually takes Barge, when he passes into Asia, or diverts himself
upon the Bosphorus, at which time the Bostangi Bashi, who hath the
principal care of the Emperors palace, and hath the command of the
Bosphorus, sits at the helm and steers.
The seven Towers are at the South-east extremity.
The only Suburbs are to the North-west, along the Haven-side; for above
the hill, where the three walls begin, lies an open champaign Country,
except that here and there at considerable distances farm houses are
scatter'd.
The Haven runs in from the West, and so opens East.
At the East end of Galata is Tophana, where they cast their great Guns.
Pera and Galata have about six gates to the Seaward. The whole tract of
ground was anciently, before the times of the Emperor Valentinian, who
enclosed and fortified Galata with walls and towers, styled Περαῖα or Regio
Peræa being πέραν τῆς πόλεως, on the other side of the City to the North,
which is the reason of its name, seated on higher hills, and whose ascent is
more steep and difficult.
Our modern Geographers, such as Mercator and Ortelius, who herein follow
Ptolomy, place Constantinople in the Latitude of 43. degrees and 5
minutes: the Arabian and Persian Astronomers, as Abulfeda, Nassir Edin,
Vlugh Beigh, and so the πρόχειροι κανόνες, Chrysococcas translated out of
the Persian tables, place it more Northerly in 45. But by latter and better
observation it is found, that they have erred in assigning the Latitude of
this City, as of several other places. To salve these differences, there is no
just ground of pretence to say, that the Poles are moveable and have
changed their situation since their time, whereas it may better be imputed
to their want of due care, or to their taking things upon trust, from the
reports of Travellers and Seamen, not having been upon the places
themselves: which certainly is to be said for Ptolomy whose observations,
as to places more remote from Alexandria, are far from being accurate and
true. The learned Mr. John Greaves, as I find in a Manuscript discourse,
very worthy of being Printed, which he presented to the most reverend and
renowned Arch-bishop Usher, took the height of the Pole at Constantinople
with a brass sextant of above 4 feet radius, and found it to be but 41
degrees 6´. but by the observation we made in our Court-yard at Pera with
a very good Quadrant we found it but 40 degrees and 58 minutes of North
Latitude.
There is no place between the Propontis and the walls of the City, except
just at the Seraglio-point, which may be two hundred paces in length;
where they have raised on a platform a battery for Great guns; but from
the point to the end of the Haven West, the space to the gates is unequal
in some places about twenty paces broad, in others three or four times as
many more.
The distance between Constantinople and Chalcedon upon the opposite
Bythinian-shore may be about three or four miles.
In the Walls are engraven the Names of several Emperors, who reigned
toward the declension of the Græcian Empire, as Theophilus, Michael,
Basilius, Constantius Porphyrogenitus, by whose care, and at whose
expence the several breaches caused in them by the Sea or by
Earthquakes, were repaired.
Kumkapi or the sand-gate lies toward the Propontis; this the Greeks call in
their vulgar language Κονδοσκάλι, Contoscalium, or the little scale or
landing-place. Here formerly was an Arsenal for Gallies and other small
vessels; it being a convenient passage over Sea. Over this Gate was
anciently engraven a curious Inscription still preserved in that excellent
collection published by[9]Gruterus.
Jedicula Kapi, or the Gate of the seven Towers, so called from its nearness
to that Acropolis, is that, I guess, which the Greeks formerly called χρυσῆ
or the Golden Gate, and by some late Latin Writers Chrysea, in Luitprandus,
Carea, by a mistake either of the Transcriber or Printer, for Aurea, for so
certainly it must be mended. Over this Gate was this inscription,

Hæc loca Theudosius decorat post fata Tyranni,

Aurea secla gerit, qui portam construit auro.

cited by Sirmond in his notes upon[10]Sidonius. This Gate is in the twelfth

Region, and was also called ὡραῖα from its beautiful and curious structure.
The Gun gate formerly called Roman gate, not because it leads towards the
continent of Romania or Thrace, but from[11]St. Romanus, where the last
Christian Emperor was killed at the assault which the Turks made to force
their Way into the City by it.
Near Adrianople gate is a fair large Mosch called Ali-bassa, upon a hill
accounted the highest in the City.
The distance between tower and tower in the upper wall to the landward
may be about ninety of my paces; the space between that and the second
wall about eighteen paces over.
The place, where the Lyons, Leopards, and such like wild creatures are
kept, (where I saw also several Jackalls) was formerly, as the Greeks told
me, a Christian Church dedicated to Παναγία or the Blessed Virgin, where
this Verse is still legible,
Κατὰ Σκυθῶν ἔπνευσας θερμὸν ἐν μάχαις.
There is no tide or running back of the water on any side of the Bosphorus
into the black Sea, as[12]some have imagined, whose mistake might
possibly arise hence, that the wind being at North, and blowing hard, the
current sets more violently at such times against the several headlands
jetting out into the channel, which admits of several turnings, and so the
waters are forced back to some little distance: or else because when the
South-wind freshens and grows boisterous, it makes a high rolling Sea in
the Propontis and Bosphorous, and being contrary to the current, gives a
check to it, so that it becomes less sensible, and is easily stemmed. Where
it is narrowest, the distance seems to the eye to be scarce a mile over from
one shore to another; where broadest, not much above a mile and a half,
unless where it runs into the deep Bays, which by reason of their
shallowness only harbour Boats.
The channel certainly is natural and not cut by art, as some have idly
fansied, not considering, how the Euxine Sea should discharge it self
otherwise of those great quantities of waters, poured into it by the Ister
and Tanais, now called Don, and the other Rivers, whereby it becomes less
salt, even very sensibly to the taste, than several parts of the
Mediterranean.
The Fish, by a strange kind of instinct, pass in vast shoals twice a year,
Autumn and Spring, through the Bosphorus, that is, out of one Sea into
another, of which the Greeks, who live several months of the year upon
them, take great numbers, and supply the markets at easie rates; the
Cormorants and other ravenous water-fowl, which the Turks will not suffer
to be destroy'd or otherwise molested, preying upon them.
The weather in some months is very inconstant, great heats and colds
happening the same day upon the change of the wind.
The winters at Constantinople are sometimes extraordinary severe. I have
heard it related by several old Greeks, as a thing most certain that the
Bosphorus was frozen over in the time of Achmed, and that a Hare was
coursed over it. It hapned thus, that upon a thaw huge cakes of Ice came
floating down the Danube into the black Sea, and were driven by the
current into the Bosphorus, whereupon the return of the frost, they were
fixed so hard that it became passable. In the year 1669 there was Ice in
the Haven to the great amazement of the Turks; and some were so frighted
at this unusual accident, that they lookt upon it as a dismal prodigy, and
concluded, that the World would be at an end that Year. The Aguglia or
Obelisk in the Hippodrome is betwixt fifty and sixty Foot high.
The Historical Pillar in basso relievo, raised in honour of the Emperors
Arcadius and Honorius, may be in height about an hundred seven and forty
feet.
Alexius Comnenus lies buried in the Patriarchal Church against the wall, and
his daughter Anna Comnena, the Historian, who lived about the year of
Christ 1117. They pretend to shew there the reliques of St. Anastasia, who
suffered Martyrdom under the Emperor Valerianus, and of St. Euphemia,
Virgin and Martyr, who lost her life most gloriously for Christ's holy religion
at Chalcedon under Dioclesian.
In Sancta Sophia there are pillars so great, that a Man can scarce fathom
them at twice. At the end of the Gallery, that joins the other two, each
about thirty of my paces wide, there is a piece of transparent Marble, two
or three Inches thick. In the North gallery upon the Pavement is a reddish
sort of a Marble Stone, brought, as the Turks and Christians relate, from
Palestine, on which they Fable, that the blessed Virgin used to wash the
linnen of our Saviour.
I observed but one step from the Body of the Church to the Bema or place
where the Altar formerly stood.
The great Mosch at Chasim-bassa on Pera side to the West, was formerly a
Church dedicated to St Theodosia.
Gianghir, a Mosch so called, upon a hill at Fondaclee near Tophana.
In Constantinople there are several narrow streets of Trade, closed up with
sheds and pent-houses, which I suppose were in use before the Greeks lost
their Empire, and are the same with the σκεπαστοὶ καὶ φρακτοὶ δρόμοι in
Chrysaloras his[13]Epistle. But besides these places, several Trades have
their distant quarters. The streets are raised for the most part on each side
for the greater convenience.
Not far from Suleimania is the house of the Aga or General of the
Janizaries, which so often changes its Masters.
Pompey's pillar, as the Franks erroneously call it, is of the Corinthian order,
curiously wrought, about eighteen foot in height and three in Diameter.
Beshiktash, a Village within three or four miles of Constantinople towards
the Bosphorus, where lies buried the famous Pirate Ariadin, whom the
Christian Writers call Barbarossa, who built here a handsome Mosch, having
two rows of Pillars at the entrance. The Captain Bassa usually, before he
puts to Sea with his Armata of Gallies, visits the Tomb of this fortunate
Robber, who had made several thousand Christians Slaves, and makes his
Prayers at the neighbouring Church for the good Success of his expedition.
They reckon in the City above a hundred publick Baths, every street almost
affording one. They are esteemed works of great Piety and Charity; there
being a continual use of them, not only upon the accompt of Religion, but
of Health and Cleanliness. For their Diet being for the most part hot spiced
meats in the Winter, and crude fruits in the Summer, their Liquor Fountain
Water, or Coffee, to which we may add their lazy kind of Life (for walking is
never used by them for digestion, or otherwise in the way of diversion)
frequent bathing becomes necessary.
There are several receptacles of Water under Ground, and one particularly
under the Church of Sancta Sophia, as I was informed; but I did not think it
worth my curiosity to descend into it. These were of great use to the poor
Greeks in the last fatal Siege; but the Turks are so secure, that they do not
think, that they deserve either cost or pains to keep the Waters sweet, or
the cisterns in repair.
The Aqueducts, which answer to those glorious Aqueducts, near Pyrgos,
and convey the water to the great cistern near Sultan Selim's Mosch, are in
that part of Constantinople, which lies between the Mosch of Mahomet the
Great and Shaxade.
The Turks began to besiege Constantinople on the fifth of April, and took it
the twenty ninth of May on Whitsun Tuesday morning 1453. or as the Turks
reckon in the year 857. of the Hegira, or flight of Mahomet, the 22 day of
the first Jomad.
The Chappel, where Ejub Sultan is interred, at whose Head and Feet I
observed great wax Candles, is enclosed with latten wire Grates, for the
better accommodation of such religious Turks as come to pay their respect
to the memory of this great Musulman Saint. In the middle of the Area
there is raised a building sustained by excellent marble Pillars, ascended by
two several pair of stairs, where the new Emperor is inaugurated, and
where he usually goes in Biram-time.

FOOTNOTES:
[1] Κατὰ τὴν ἐπώνυμον ἡμῖν πόλιν. So the Emperor Constantine in a
Letter to Eusebius. de vita Constantini. lib. 4. cap. 36. & apud
Theodoritum Histor. Eccles. lib. 1. cap. 16. v. etiam Socrat. Scholast.
Hist. Eccles. lib. 1. cap. 16.
[2] V. Socratem ibidem. Et Theophanem in Chronographia XXV. anno
Constantini.
[3] The Italian Word Rione is a manifest corruption of the Latin Word.
[4] In Panegyrico, quem Romæ dixit Anthemio Augusto, bis Consuli.
[5] Hæresi LXIX. quæ est Arianorum. Sect. 2. where he says a sad
dismal Fire was kindled by Arius; πῦρ ὀυ τὸ τυχὸν ὃ κατείληφε πᾶσαν
τὴν Ρωμανίαν σχεδὸν, μάλιστα τῆς ἀνατολῖς τὰ μέρη, which seized
almost upon all Romania, or Universum Romanorum imperium, as
Petavius renders it, but especially the Eastern parts of it.
[6] Pag. 144, 152, 153.
[7] Pag. 139.
[8] v. Gillium de Bosp. Thracio lib. III. cap. 12. &c.
[9] Pag. 169. Num. 3.
[10] Pag. 121.
[11] Vid. Historiam Politicam Constantinopoleos apud Crusium in Turco-
Græcia, pag. 9.
[12] This was an old error; for thus writes Dionysius Byzantinus in his
little Book of the Bosphorus. Τοῦ ῥεύματος τὸ μὲν πλεῖον κατιόντος ἐστὶ
δὲ ὅτε κατ' ἐπικράτειαν ἀναστρέφοντος.
[13] Pag. 119.
account of the City of Prusa in Bythynia,
and a continuation of the Historical
Observations relating to Constantinople,
by the Reverend and learned Thomas
Smith D. D. fellow of Magd. Coll. Oxon.
and of the Royal Society.
Montanea formerly called Nicopolis according to Bellonius, or rather Cios,
the bay hence called Sinus Cianus, lies in the bottom of a Bay about
Fourscore miles from Constantinople, and is the Scale or Landing-place for
Prusa, from which it may be about twelve miles; in the middle way to which
is the Village Moussanpoula.
Prusa, now called by the Turks Bursia, the chief City of Bythynia, is seated
at the foot partly, and partly upon the rising of the mount Olympus, which
is one of the highest Hills of the lesser Asia. Its top is covered with Snow
for nine or ten Months of the Year, several streams of Water flowing down
the Hill continually, accounted very unwholesom from the Snow mixed with
it. In the upper part of the City to the North-west lies the Seraglio, which is
walled round; but the Emperors not residing here since their acquests in
Thrace, or scarce making visits to this Imperial City, and none of their Sons
living here of late, according to the former Policy of the Turkish Emperors,
who did not permit their Sons, when grown up, to be near them, but sent
them to some Honourable Employment, accompanied with a Bassa and
Cadi to instruct them in the Arts of War and Government, it lies now
neglected and despoiled of all its ornaments.
In this part also are the Sepulchers of Osman, the founder of the Family,
which now Reigns, and his Son Urchan, who took the City, near a Mosch,
formerly a Christian Church dedicated to St. John, and where was formerly
a Convent of Religious, built by Constantinus Iconomachus, where I saw
the figure of a Cross still remaining upon the Wall. Here hangs up a Drum
of a vast bigness, such as they carry upon the backs of Cammels, and I
suppose is one of those which they used in the taking the Place.
In the lower part, near the bottom of the Hill, Morad the second, the Father
of Mahomet the Great, lies buried: near whereunto was formerly the
Metropolitical Church of the Holy Apostles. The Bezesten, or Exchange,
seems to be much better and larger than the great one at Constantinople,
as are the several Caravanserais built for the use and accommodation of
Merchants, and Travellers; in one of which, the Rice Chane, I took up my
quarters.
Without the City toward the East is the Mosch and Sepulcher of the
Emperor Bajazid the first, whom the Turks call Jilderim or lightning, and the
Greek Writers λαίλαψ. Not far from hence is the Mosch of Mahomet the
first, and his Sepulcher. Toward the West upon the side of the Hill is the
Mosch of Morad the First, whom they call Gazi or the Conqueror, near
which he lies buried. There are in the whole about 124 Moschs, several of
which were formerly Christian Churches, and between fifty and sixty
Chanes. The Castles built by Osman, when he besieged the City, are
slighted and altogether unfortified, the one to the North, the other to the
South-West.
At Checkerghe, about a mile and a half out of Town, are the hot Baths,
much frequented both by Christians and Turks. They are made very
Convenient to Bath in, and are covered over, that they may be used in all
Weathers. Among others, there is a large round Basin, where they usually
divert themselves by Swimming.
What opinions the Turks have of our Blessed Saviour and the Christian
Religion, I shall briefly shew, as they lie dispersed in several Chapters of
the Alcoran, according to which they frame their Discourse, whensoever
either Zeal or Curiosity puts them upon this Topick. For Mahomet upon his
setting up to be the Author of a new Religion, finding such a considerable
part of the World professing the doctrine of Christ, with all the Mysteries of
Faith therein contained, was cast upon a necessity of saying something
both concerning Him and It. By which it will appear, how great the Power of
Truth is above Imposture and Subtility, and that as the Devils in the
Possessed confess'd, though against their Wills, Christ to be the Son of
God, so this Dæmoniack in the midst of all his Forgeries and Lies, and
Ridiculous and Childish Narratives, not being able to contradict the
universal Belief of the Christians of that, and the preceding Ages, founded
on the History of the Gospel, hath been forced to give Testimony to several
particulars of it.
They confess then that Christ was Born of a Pure Spotless Virgin, the Virgin
Mary, chosen by God and sanctified above all the Women in the World; and
that the Angel Gabriel was dispatched out of Heaven to acquaint her with
the News of it. That such a kind of Miraculous and Supernatural Birth never
hapned to any besides, and that Christ was conceived by the Holy Ghost,
and that he wrought mighty Miracles, for Instance, that he cleansed
Lepers, gave Sight to the Blind, restored Sick Persons to their Health, and
raised the Dead.
That he is a great Prophet, sent by God to convert Men from the Vanity and
Error of their false Worship to the Knowledge of the true God, to Preach
Righteousness, and to correct and restore the Imperfection and
Miscarriages of Humane Nature; that he was of a most Holy and Exemplary
Life, that he was the true Word of God, the Apostle or Ambassador of God;
That his Gospel was revealed to him from Heaven, and that he is in Heaven
standing nigh to the Throne of God. They Blaspheme indeed with a
Brutishness and Stupidity only befitting Turks, the Mysteries of the Holy
Trinity, and of the Divinity of our Blessed Saviour, and deny that he was put
to Death, and say that another in his Shape was Crucified by the Jews, and
that he himself was assumed into Heaven in his Body without dying at all,
and consequently they will not own, that he satisfied Divine Justice for the
Sins of the World; so great an affinity is there between the Heresie of
Socinus and profess'd Mahometanism.
I could never yet see any Turkish Translation of the Alcoran; they cry up
the Elegance of the Style, which being Enthusiastick and High-flown, by
reason also of the tinkling of the Periods, is very delightful to their Ears,
who seem to be affected with Rhime mightily. Though I suppose it is upon
a more Politick Account, that they are so averse, as to the translating it into
their vulgar Language, not out of respect to the Sacredness of the Original
only, whose full commanding Expressions they think cannot be translated
without a great diminution to the Sense; but to keep it in greater
Veneration among the People, who might be apt to Slight and Dis-esteem
it, should it become thus common among them. It is enough, that the
Priests and Learned Men explain the difficult Passages of it to the People,
and write Commentaries for the use of the more Curious and Inquisitive.
The Persians on the contrary think it no disparagement to the Arabick, or
Profanation of the Sense, to Translate this cursed Book into their own
Language, and Copies are frequent among them.
The Grand Signior's Women are usually the choicest Beauties of the
Christian Spoils, presented by the Bassa's or Tartars. The present Sultana,
the Mother of the young Prince Mustapha, is a Candiot; the Valide or
Emperor's Mother, a Russian, the Daughter of a poor Priest, who with her
Relations were seized upon by the Tartars in an Incursion, which they made
into the Muscovites Country. She being receiv'd into the Seraglio, by her
beautiful Complexion and cunning Behaviour, gain'd the Heart and Affection
of Sultan Ibrahim (a Man wholly addicted to soft Pleasures, and who
seldom cared to be long absent from the Women's Apartment, but chose to
spend his time among them) having the good fortune to be the Mother of
the Prince Mahomet, the eldest Son of his Father, who now Reigns, she had
all the Honours that could possibly be done her, and was the beloved
Hazaki or chief Concubine. During this height of Splendor and Glory, the
Court removing from Constantinople to Adrianople, distant about an
Hundred and Twenty Miles, as she was passing in great State attended with
her Guards, through the Streets of the City, in a Coach, much like our
Carriage-Wagons, but that they are latticed to let in the Air (for no one
must presume to stare or scarce look upon the Women, much less must
they themselves suffer their Faces to be seen in this jealous Country) she
out of Curiosity looking through the holes, saw a poor Christian Slave in a
Shop, where Sugar and such like Wares were Sold. Upon her return she
sent one of her Eunuchs to enquire for the Person, and to ask him several
Questions about his Country, Relations, Friends, and the time when and
how long he had been a Slave: His answers were so particular and
satisfactory, that she was soon convinc'd of the Truth and Certainty of her
apprehensions, when she first cast her Eyes upon him, that he was her
Brother, and accordingly it proved so. Whereupon acquainting the Emperor
with it, she immediately redeemed him from his Patron, and having made
the poor Wretch turn Turk, got him considerably preferred.
The Bassa's for the most part are the Sons of Christians, taken into the
Seraglio, near the Emperor's Person, and so are prefer'd to considerable
Governments, or else they raise themselves by their Conduct and Valour.
Mahomet Bassa in the time of Achmet, whose eldest Daughter he Married,
was the first natural Turk, that was made chief Vizir, having before been
Captain Bassa. The chief Vizir Mahomet Kupriuli, (who settled the Empire in
the Minority of this Emperor, when it was ready to be shaken into Pieces,
and dissolved by several powerful Factions in the State, and by the Mutinies
and Discontents of the Janizaries and Saphi's, who drove different ways)
was an Albaneze by Birth, the Son of a Greek Priest, whom out of the
height of Zeal for Mahomet, he made turn Turk in his Old Age, and
converted the Christian Church in the Village where he was Born into a
Mosch. This Man also forbad the Dervises to Dance in a Ring and turn
round, which before was their solemn Practice at set times before the
People, which they would do so long, till they were giddy by this swift
circular Motion, and fell down in a Swound, and then oftentimes upon their
recovery from such Trances, they pretended to Revelation. The Church-Men
are not very kind to his Memory, looking upon him as a Man of little or no
Religion; and they give out, that if he had lived, he would have forbid their
calling to Prayers from the Spires of their Moschs, and hanging out Lamps;
both which they look upon as Solemn and Essential to the exercise of
Religion; but he as the effect of Bigotry and Superstition.
They have a mighty Honour and Esteem for Physicians, for though they are
of Opinion, that they cannot with all their Art prolong Life, the Period and
Term of it being Fatal, and absolutely determin'd by God, yet they often
consult them upon any violent Sickness or Pain, in order to make the time
allotted them in this World more pleasant and easie. It is extraordinary
rare, that a natural Turk makes Physick his Profession and Study. They who
practice it among them, when I was in Turky, were for the most part
Greeks and Jews, who know nothing of Chymical Medicines, but follow the
usual Methods, which they learnt in Italy and Spain, the former having
studied in Padua, and the latter in Salamanca, where they pass for good
Catholicks. And I remember I met with a certain Jew Physician, who had
been a Capuchine in Portugal. During the tedious Siege of Candia, the Vizir,
what with the melancholy, and what with the ill Air of the Camp, finding
himself much indispos'd, sent for a Christian Physician Signior Massalins, a
subject of the Republick of Venice, but Married to a Greek Woman, by
whom he had several Children, who was our Neighbour at Pera, an
experienc'd able Man, to come speedily to him, and made him a Present of
about a thousand Dollars, in order to fit himself for the Voyage and bear
the expence of it. By this worthy Gentleman's Care, he recovered his
Health, and would not permit him to depart, till after the surrendry of that
City, which might be about seven Months after his Arrival there, treating
him in the mean while with all imaginable Respect. During our short stay at
Bursia, one of our Janizaries accidentally discoursing with a Turk about us,
whom they knew to be Franks, told him that there was a Physician in the
Company, who had been lately at the Grand Signior's Court at Saloniki with
the English Ambassador, and was now upon his return from Constantinople
to Smyrna, where he lived. This presently took vent, and the Turks thought
that they had got a Man among them, that could Cure all Diseases
Infallibly; for several immediately came to find us out in behalf of
themselves or their Sick Friends, and one of the most considerable Men
upon the Place, desir'd the Doctor to go to his House to visit one of his
Women Sick in Bed, who being permitted to feel her naked Pulse (for
usually they throw a piece of fine Silk or Curl over their Womens Wrists at
such times) soon discovered by that and other Symptoms and Indications
of her Distemper, that opening a Vein would presently give her Ease and
recover her: which he did accordingly; for which he received an
embroidered Handkerchief instead of a Fee, and gained the Reputation of
having done a mighty Cure.
They have little of Ingenious or Solid Learning among them; their chief
Study, next to the Alcoran, being metaphysical Niceties about the Attributes
of God, or else the Maintenance of other odd speculative Notions and
Tenets, derived down to them from some of their famed Masters and Holy
Men, whom they pretend to follow. Their Knowledge of the motion of the
Heavens, for which the Arabians and the other Eastern Nations have been
so deservedly famous, as their Astronomical Tables of the Longitude and
Latitude of the fixed Stars, and of the appulse of the Moon to them, fully
evince, is now very mean, and is chiefly studied for the use of Judiciary
Astrology. The great Instrument they make use of is an Astrolabe, with
which they make very imperfect Observations, having no such thing as a
Quadrant or Sextant, much less a Telescope, or any mechanical Engine, to
direct and assist them in their Calculation. Their Skill in Geography is as
inconsiderable; I remember I heard the Captain Bassa, whom they stile
Admiral of the Black and White Seas, meaning the Euxine and the
Mediterranean, ask this silly Question; whether England were out of the
Streights? and at another time the Caymican or Governour of
Constantinople, hearing that England was an Island, desired to know, how
many Miles it was about, in order, we supposed, to make an estimate of
our King's Greatness and Strength by the extent and compass of it.
One of the great Astrologers of Constantinople, having heard that I had a
pair of Globes in my Chamber, made me a Visit on purpose to see their
contrivance, being introduced by a worthy Gentleman of our own Nation.
After the first Ceremonies were over, I took my Terrestrial Globe, and
rectified it to the position of the Place, and pointed to the several Circles
both without and upon it, and told him in short the several uses of them:
Then shewed him how Constantinople bared from Candia at that time
Besieged, Cair, Aleppo, Mecca, and other chief Places of the Empire, with
the other Parts of the World: At which he was mightily surprized to see the
whole Earth and Sea represented in that Figure and in so narrow a
compass, and pleased himself with turning the Globe round several times
together. Afterwards I set before him the Celestial Globe, and rectified that,
and shewed him how all the noted Constellations were exactly described,
and how they moved regularly upon their Poles, as in the Heavens; some
rising, and others setting, some always above the Horison, and others
always under, in an oblique Sphere, and particularly what Stars would rise
that Night with us at such an Hour; the Man seemed to be ravished with
the Curiosity of it, turning this Globe also several times together with his
Finger, and taking a mighty Pleasure in viewing the motion of it: and yet
this silly Animal past for a Conjurer among the Turks, and was look'd upon
as one that could foretel the events of Battels, the fates of Empires, and
the end of the World.
They have no Genius for Sea-Voyages, and consequently are very Raw and
Unexperienc'd in the Art of Navigation, scarce venturing to Sail out of Sight
of Land. I speak of the natural Turks, who Trade either into the Black Sea,
or some part of the Morea, or between Constantinople and Alexandria; and
not of the Pyrats of Barbary, who are for the most part Renegado's, and
learn'd their Skill in Christendom, which they exercise so much to the Terror
and Damage of it. A Turkish Compass consists but of eight Points, the four
Cardinal and four Collateral; they being at a mighty Loss how to Sail by a
side Wind, when by hauling their Sails sharp, they might lie their Course,
and much more, when they are in the Winds Eye, not knowing how to
make Tacks and Bords, but choose rather to make hast into some
Neighbouring Port, 'till the Wind blows fair. An English and Turkish Vessel
both bound for the Bay of Saloniki, at the time of the Grand Signior's being
there, past together out of the Hellespont; but foul Weather happening, the
Turks got into Lemnos; while our Men kept at Sea and pursued their
Voyage, and after three Weeks stay, returned back to us, observing in their
way, that the Turks remained in the same place where they left them, for
want of a Fore-Wind to put to Sea in.
They trouble not themselves with reading the Histories of other Nations or
of antient times, much less with the Study of Chronology, without which,
History is very lame and imperfect; which is the cause of those ridiculous
and childish Mistakes, which pass current and uncontradicted among them.
For instance, they make Job one of Solomon's Judges and (Iscander)
Alexander the great Captain General of his Army. They number Philip of
Macedon among the Ancestors of our Blessed Saviour, and believe that
Sampson, Jonas, and St. George were his Contemporaries. In this they are
more excusable then their false Prophet Mahomet, who in his Alcoran has
perverted several Historical Notices in the Writings of the Old Testament,
and is guilty of vile and absurd Pseudo-chronismes. To remedy this defect,
of which he was very conscious, and the better to understand the States of
Christendom, and the particular Kingdoms and Republicks of it, the late
Great and Wise Vizir, Achmet, made his Interpreter Panagiotti, a Learned
Greek, at leisure Hours, even at the Siege of Candia, as well as at other
times, read several ancient Histories to him, and render them Ex-tempore
into the Turkish Language, and particularly Blaeus Atlas, with which he was
mightily pleased, and made great use of, and truly gained the Reputation of
a solid and judicious States-man, as well as Souldier among the Christian
Ministers, who in the ordinary course of their Negotiations apply'd
themselves to him.
Tho' their Year be according to the course of the Moon, and so the Turkish
Months run round the civil Year in a Circle of thirty three Years and a few
odd Days, yet they celebrate the Neuruz, which signifies in the Persian
Tongue the New Year, the twenty first Day of March (on which Day the
vernal Equinox was fixed by the Greeks and other Oriental Christians, in the
time of the Emperor Constantine, who made no Provision for the προήγεσις
ἰσημερινὴ, or Precession, which in process of Time the inequality between
the Civil and Astronomical Year must necessarily produce) at which time
the Cadyes and other annual Magistrates, and Farmers of the Customs take
Place, and reckon to that Day twelve Month again.
In their civil Deportment and Behaviour one towards another, the left Hand
is the more Worthy and Honourable Place, except among their
Ecclesiasticks; and the Reason they alledge is, because they Write from the
right Hand, and the Sword is worn on the left Side, and so is more at his
disposal, who walks on that Hand. The chief Vizir accordingly in the Divan
sits at the left Hand of the Mufty, each maintaining their Right of
Precedence according to this way of decision.
In their Moschs they sit without any distinction of degrees.
Some of the more zealous Turks cause to be engraven on their Scymitars
and Bucklers a Sentence out of the sixty first Surat, which is concerning
Fighting or Battle-array, and contains Incouragements to Fight in the Way
and Paths of God, as the Impostor Words it; for which he assures them,
besides assistance from Heaven to help them to get the Victory over their
Enemies, and that God will Pardon their Sins and bring them to Paradice.
Thus spirited with Zeal, a Turk lays about him with Fury, when he is a
fighting, and seems ambitious of dying to gain the delights of Paradice, at
least indifferent whether he dies or lives.
The Turks are as to their Temper serious, or rather inclining to morosity,
seldom Laughing, which is accounted an argument of great Vanity and
Lightness. They perform the Exercises, which they use in the way of
Diversion, as Shooting and Hunting, with a great deal of gravity, as if they
designed them more for Health than for Pleasure; and this too but seldom.
The better and richer sort, who have nothing to do, sitting all Day at Home,
lolling upon a Sofa or rais'd Place in their Rooms, and taking Tobacco,
which their Slaves fill and light for them: And if they retire in the Summer
or Autumn, for a Week or Fort-night to some convenient Fountain in a
Wood with their Women, it is chiefly to enjoy the Refreshments of the cool
Air. In the times of Triumph indeed for some great Success obtained against
the Christians, when the Shops are open for three Nights together, and
hung with Lights, as well as the Spires of the Moschs in curious Figures,
they are guilty of extravagant Mirth, running up and down the Streets in
Companies, and sometimes Singing and Dancing after their rude way; but
this fit being over, they soon return to their former Melancholy. In the
Coffee-Houses where they use to resort to Tipple, there is usually one hired
by the Owners to read either an idle Book of Tales, which they admire as
Wit, or filthy obscene Stories, with which they seem wonderfully affected
and pleased, few of them being able to Read. These are the Schools, which
they frequent for their Information, tho' in times of War, when things went
ill with them, their Discourses would be of the ill Government; and the
Grand Signior himself and his chief Ministers could not escape their
Censures, which manifestly tending to Sedition, and to the heightning of
their Discontents by their mutual Complaints, and by this free venting of
their Grievances during the War at Candia, the Wise Vizir seeing the evil
Consequences that would follow, if such Meetings and Discourses were any
longer tolerated, Commanded, that all the publick Coffee-houses should be
shut up in Constantinople and several other great Cities of the Empire,
where the Malcontents used to rendezvouz themselves, and find fault upon
every ill Success and Miscarriage with the administration of Affairs.
The custom of the Turks to salute the Emperor or the Vizir Bassa's with
loud Acclamations and Wishes of Health and long Life, when they appear
first in their Houses or any publick Place, is derived from the Greeks, who
took it from the Romans. This was done by them in a kind of Singing Tone;
whence Luitprandus Bishop of Cremona tells us, that in a certain Procession
(προέλυσις) at which he was present, they Sang to the Emperor Nicephorus
πολλὰ ἔτη that is, many Years, (which Codinus, who lived just about the
taking of Constantinople, by the Turks, expresses τὸ ψάλλειν τὸ
πολυχρόνιον or by τὸ πολυχρονίζειν and the wish or salute by
πολυχρόνισμα) and at Dinner the Greeks then present wish'd with a loud
Voice to the Emperor and Bardas, Ut Deus annos multiplicet, as he
Translates the Greek.
The Turkish Coin in it self is pitiful and inconsiderable, which I ascribe not
only to their want of Bullion, but to their little Skill in matters relating to the
Mint. Hence it comes to pass that Zecchines and Hungars for Gold, and
Spanish Dollars and Zalotts for Silver stampt in Christendom pass current
among them, most of the great Payments being made in them, they not
caring either through Ignorance or Sloth to follow the Example of the
Indian or Persian Emperors, who usually melt down the Christian Mony
imported by the Merchants into their several Countries, and give it a new
Stamp. The most usual pieces are the Sheriphi of Gold, somewhat less in
value than a Venetian Zecchine, and Aspers; ten of which are equal to six
Pence English, and some few three Asper Pieces. A Mangur is an ugly old
Copper Piece, eight of which make but one Asper, and is not I think a
Turkish Coin, but rather Greek. They have no Arms upon their Coin, only
Letters embossed on both sides, containing the Emperor's Name, or some
short Sentence out of the Alcoran.
The Turks look upon Earthquakes as Ominous, as the vulgar do upon
Eclipses, not understanding the Philosophy of them. During my stay in
Constantinople, which was above 2 Years, there hapned but one, which
was October 26. 1669. about six a Clock in the Morning a stark Calm
preceeding. It lasted very near a Minute, and we at Pera and Galata were
as sensible of it, as those who were on the other side of the Water; but
praised be God nothing fell, and we were soon rid of the Fears in which this
frightful Accident had cast us, being in our Beds, and not able by reason of
the Surprize in so little a space to have past through a Gallery down a pair
of Stairs into the Court, if we had attempted it. The Turks made direful
Reflexions on it, as if some Calamity would inevitably fall upon the Empire,
quickly forgetting the great Triumphings and Rejoycings which they exprest
but a few Days before for the Surrendry of Candia. In the Year 1668. in
August, the Earth shook more or less for forty-seven Days together in the
lesser Asia at Anguri (Ancyra), and for fifteen at Bacbasar, as we heard
from a Scotch Merchant, who liv'd there: And particularly, that at this latter
Place on the second of August, between three and four of the Clock in the
Afternoon it lasted for a quarter of an Hour; several Houses were
overthrown, and some hundreds of Chimneys fell (it being a very populous
Town) and yet there were but seven kill'd. The trembling being so violent,
both Turks and Christians forsook their Houses, and betook themselves to
the Fields, Vineyards, and Gardens, where they made their Abode for
several Days.
Their Punishments are very severe, this being judg'd the most effectual
way to prevent all publick Disorders and Mischiefs. They use no great
Formality in their Processes: If the Criminal be taken in the Fact, and the
Witnesses ready and present to attest it, and sometimes if there be but
probable circumstances, without full Conviction, condemn him; and soon
after Sentence, sometimes an Hour, or less, hurry him away to Execution.
For an ordinary Crime, hanging is the usual Death: But for Robbery and
Murder, committed upon the High Way by such as Rob in Parties and alarm
whole Provinces, or for Sacriledge, or for any hainous Crime against the
Government, either Gaunching or Excoriation, or cutting off the Legs and
Arms, and leaving the Trunk of the Body in the High Way, or Empaling, that
is, thrusting an Iron Stake through the Body out under the Neck or at the
Mouth; in which extreme Torment the miserable Wretch may live two or
three Days, if the Guts or the Heart happen not to be wounded by the
pointed Spike in its Passage. This Punishment seems to have been in use
among the Romans, Seneca's Epist. 14. Cogita hoc loco carcerem, &
cruces, & eculeos, & uncum, & adactum per medium hominem, qui per os
emergat, stipitem: and so in his Book De Consolatione ad Marciam cap. 20.
Ali capite conversos in terram suspendere: Alii per obscena stipitem
egerunt: Alii brachia patibulo explicuerunt. Murder is seldom Pardon'd, and
especially if the Relations of the Murder'd Person demand Justice.
The Circumcision, tho' it be a Sacred Right, is perform'd in their private
Houses, and never in the Moschs.
The Women colour their Eye-Brows and Lids with an ugly black Powder, I
suppose, to set off their Beauty by such a Shadow; and their Nails with the
Powder of Kanna, which gives them a Tincture of faint Red, like Brick (as
they do the Tails and Hoofs of Horses) which they look upon as a great
Ornament. Their great diversion is Bathing; sometimes thrice, if not four
times a Week. They do not permit them to go to Church in time of Prayer,
for fear they should spoil their Devotion: The Turks being of so brutish a
Temper, that their Lust is rais'd upon the sight of a fair Object. They are
call'd oftentimes by the Names of Flowers and Fruits, and sometimes
Phantastick Names are given them, such as Sucar Birpara, or bit of Sugar,
Dil Ferib, or Ravisher of Hearts, and the like.
Their Skill in Agriculture is very mean. In their Gardens they have several
little Trenches to convey Water, where it may be most necessary for their
Plants and Flowers. They know little or nothing of manuring their Grounds:
Sometimes they burn their Fields and Vineyards after Harvest and Vintage,
partly to destroy the Vermin, and partly to enrich the Soil. They tread out
their Corn with Oxen, drawing a square Plank Board, about a Foot and a
half or two Foot over, studded with Flints, and winnow it upon their
threshing Floors in the open Air, the Wind blowing away the Chaff. They
feed their Horses with Barly and chopt Straw; for I do not remember ever
to have seen any Oats among them; and they make but little Hay.
For Draught of great Weight in their Carts they make use of Buffalo's.
Camels will endure Travel four Days together without Water, and will eat
tops of Thistles, Shrubs, or any kind of Boughs: They are very sure-footed,
and kneel when they are a loading, and live to a considerable number of
Years, some even to sixty.
The chief Furniture of their Houses are Carpets or Mats of Grand Cairo,
neatly wrought with Straw, spread upon the Ground; they having no
occasion of Chairs, Couches, Stools, or Tables; their postures within Doors,
being different from ours. They have no Hangings, but their Walls are
whited and set off with Painting, only adorn'd with a kind of Porcelane; no
Beds clos'd with Curtains.
They seal not with Wax, but Ink, at the bottom of the Paper the Emperor's
Name being usually written with Flourishes and in perplext Characters: Nor
have they any Coats of Arms upon their Seals, there being no such thing as
Gentility among them.
Some of them, notwithstanding their Zeal for Mahomet and the Religion by
him establish'd, retain not only a favourable and honourable Opinion of our
Blessed Saviour, but even place some kind of Confidence in the usage of
his Name, or of the Words of the Gospel, tho' it may seem to be wholly in
the way of Superstition. Thus in their Amulets, which they call Chaimaili,
being little bits of Paper of two or three Fingers breadth, roul'd up in pieces
of Silk, containing several short Prayers or Sentences out of the Alcoran,
with several Circles with other Figures, they usually inscribe the Holy and
Venerable Name of JESUS, or the Figure of the Cross, or the first Words of
St. John's Gospel, and the like; they hang them about their Necks, or place
them under their Arm-pits, or in their Bosom near their Hearts (being the
same with what the Greeks call ἐγκόλπια) and especially when they go to
War, as a preservative against the Dangers of it; and indeed against any
misfortune whatsoever. Some have them sow'd within their Caps: And I
heard of a Turk, who was so superstitious herein, that he always pluck'd it
off, and was uncover'd when he had occasion to make Water. Some are
such Bigots in their Religion, and so furious against the Christians, that not
only do they treat them with all imaginable Scorn and Contempt, but take it
ill to be salam'd or saluted by them, as if it were the effect of Sawciness or
unbecoming Familiarity. Their Malice against the Christians makes them
envy the rich Furs they line their Vests with, and it is a trouble to these
hypocritical Zealots to see the Franks ride upon their fine Arabian Horses.
The respect which they shew the Alcoran is wonderful: They dare not open
the Leaves of it with unwashen Hands, according to the Advice or
Command written in Arabick upon the Cover, Let no one touch this Book,
but he that is clean. They kiss it, and bend their Heads and touch their
Eyes with it, both when they open it and shut it.
The Janizaries, when they attend upon Christian Ambassadors to their
Audience, seem to appear in their Bravery, and in a Habit far from that of a
Soldier, being without either Fire-Arms or Swords, (which latter are not
worn but in time of Service), or when they are upon a March, or embodied,
wearing a Cap made of Camel's Hair, with a broad Flap dangling behind, a
gilt embroider'd Wreath running round it, and an oblong piece of Brass
rising up from the middle of their Forehead near a Foot, with a great Club
in their Hand, like inferior Officers of the Civil Government. But when they
are in the Camp, they throw off their upper Vest, and Turbants, which they
wear at all other usual times, as troublesome, and put on a Fess, or red
Cap, which sits close to their Head, and tuck up their Duliman or long Coat,
to their Girdle, that they may be the more quick and expedite in their
Charge.
They affect finery and neatness in their Cloths and Shashes; not so much
as a spot to be seen upon them, and in rainy or suspicious Weather, are
very careful how they go abroad without their Yamurlicks, which is a kind of
Coat they throw over their Heads at such times.
Their Pans and Dishes are for the most part of Copper, but so handsomly
Tinn'd over, that they look like Silver.
There are thousands of Gypsies or Zinganies in Turky, who live the same
idle nasty kind of Life, as they do in Christendom, and pretend to the same
Art of telling Fortunes; and are look'd upon as the Off-scouring of Mankind.
It is accounted the extremest point of human Misery to be a Slave to any of
this sort of Cattel.
The Haggi, or Pilgrims, that have been at Mecca and Medina, forbear to
drink Wine most Religiously, out of a perswasion, that one drop would
efface all the Merits of that troublesome and expensive Journey; and some
have been possess'd with such a mad Zeal, that they have blinded
themselves after their having been bless'd with the sight of Mahomet's
Sepulcher.
After Jatzih, that is, an Hour and a half in the Night, throughout the whole
Year, there is as great a silence in the Streets as at Midnight: The Emperor
Achmet in the Year 1611. having made an Order, that no one should
presume to be out of his House after that time; which is to this Day most
punctually observed. The Bostangi bashi, who has the Command of all the
Agiamoglans in the Seraglio, the Topgibashi or such great Officers attended
with a great Train of armed Men, walking the Rounds, and drubbing such
as they find abroad at unseasonable Hours of what Nation or Quality
soever, except Physicians, Chyrurgeons, and Apothecaries, whom they
allow at all times to visit the Sick.
The Turkmans, (for so they are peculiarly called, as if they were the true
Descendents of the Old Turks or Scythians, whose wandering kind of Life is
described by the Poet;
Nulla domus, plaustris habitant, migrare per arva
Ἁμαξόβιοι
Mos, atq; errantes circumvectare penates.)
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