Perfectly Peach Jacket
Knitted jacket in DROPS Air. The piece is worked top down with moss stitch,
raglan, V-neck and I-cord. Sizes XS - XXL.
DROPS 248-23
DROPS Design: Pattern ai-483
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZES:
XS - S - M - L - XL - XXL
YARN:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
300-350-400-400-450-500 g colour 54, sweet apricot
BUTTONS:
DROPS BUTTONS NO 522: 4 items in all sizes.
NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLES SIZE 5 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM: Length 80 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 MM.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need 80 cm circular needle in
each size.
KNITTING TENSION:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a
larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
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GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = 2 rows.
BANDS WITH I-CORD:
START OF ROW:
Work the band as follows: Slip 1 stitch purl-wise with yarn in front, knit 1, work 7 garter
stitches.
END OF ROW:
Work the band as follows: Work until there are 9 stitches left on the row, work 7 garter
stitches, slip 1 stitch purl-wise with yarn in front, knit 1.
Work in the same way both from the right and wrong side.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side.
RAGLAN:
All increases are worked from the right side!
Increase 1 stitch before/after each marker-stitch, Marker-stitch worked in stocking stitch.
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over.
On the next row (= wrong side) work yarn overs as follows to avoid holes:
BEFORE MARKER-STITCH:
Purl yarn over twisted.
AFTER MARKER-STITCH:
Slip yarn over onto right needle knit-wise, insert left needle and place yarn over back on
left needle, purl the front loop.
Work the new stitches into the pattern.
V-NECK:
All increases are worked from the right side!
Increase for the V-neck inside the 9 band stitches and 1 stocking stitch on each front piece
as follows: Work the left band, 1 stocking stitch, make 1 yarn over, work until there are 10
stitches left, make 1 yarn over, 1 stocking stitch and work the right band.
On the next row (= wrong side) work the yarn overs as follows to avoid holes:
AFTER RIGHT BAND:
Slip yarn over onto right needle knit-wise, insert left needle and place yarn over back on
left needle, purl the front loop.
BEFORE LEFT BAND:
Purl the yarn over twisted.
Work the new stitches into the pattern.
BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on the right band (when the garment is worn). Work from the right side
when there are 6 stitches left on the row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together,
work the other band-stitches as before. On the next row (wrong side), knit the yarn over
to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked 1 cm after the last increase for the V-neck. The other 3
buttonholes are then worked with approx. 7-8-8-8½-8½-9 cm between each one.
The bottom buttonhole is worked in the transition between the stocking stitch and rib.
DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
All decreases are worked on a round of stocking stitch.
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker-thread as follows: Start at the marker-
thread, knit 1, slip 1 stitch knit-wise, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch,
work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker-thread at the end of the round, knit
2 together, knit 1.
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START THE PIECE HERE:
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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE.
In this pattern long and short needles have been used - begin with fitting length and
switch as needed.
Start by working 2 loose bands, then cast on stitches between them for the yoke. The
yoke is worked back and forth with circular needle from mid-front and top down. When the
yoke is finished it is divided for the body and sleeves. The body is continued back and
forth with circular needle while the sleeves wait. The sleeves are worked in the round with
short circular needle/double pointed needles. The bands are fastened to the neckline to
finish.
LEFT BAND:
Cast on 9 stitches with needle size 5 mm and DROPS Air, work as follows:
RIGHT SIDE:
Slip 1 stitch purl-wise with strand in front, knit 1, 7 GARTER STITCHES – read description
above.
WRONG SIDE:
7 garter stitches, slip 1 stitch purl-wise with strand in front, knit 1.
Work back and forth like this for 17-17-17-17½-18-18 cm, with the last row from the right
side. Cut the strand and lay to one side.
RIGHT BAND:
Cast on 9 stitches with needle size 5 mm and DROPS Air, work as follows:
RIGHT SIDE:
7 garter stitches, slip 1 stitch purl-wise with strand in front, knit 1.
WRONG SIDE:
Slip 1 stitch purl-wise with strand in front, knit 1, 7 garter stitches.
Work back and forth like this for 17-17-17-17½-18-18 cm, with the last row from the right
side. Turn, then work the yoke as described below.
YOKE:
The yoke is worked back and forth with BANDS WITH I-CORD on each side, read
description above.
Work the right band stitches as before from the wrong side, cast on 65-65-65-67-69-69
stitches, work the left band stitches as before from the wrong side = 83-83-83-85-87-87
stitches.
Insert 4 markers, without working the stitches, as follows:
Count 10 stitches (front piece), insert 1 marker in the next stitch, count 17 stitches
(sleeve), insert 1 marker in the next stitch, count 25-25-25-27-29-29 stitches (back
piece), insert 1 marker in the next stitch, count 17 stitches (sleeve), insert 1 marker in the
next stitch, there are 10 stitches left (front piece).
Now work pattern back and forth at the same time as increasing for the V-neck and for
raglan – read all paragraphs, to where you divide for the body and sleeves, before
continuing. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
Work PATTERN as follows from the right side: Work the left band, work A.1 over the left
front piece as far as the first marker, * work A.2, repeat A.3 to the next marker *, work
from *-* a total of 3 times, work A.4 over the right front piece and work the right band.
Work as follows from the wrong side: Work the right band, purl until there are 9 stitches
left (remember to work the yarn overs twisted in the correct directions), work the left
band.
The moss stitch/A.3 is repeated in height – the diagrams establish the moss stitch on each
row from the right side, then work the increased stitches into the pattern. AT THE SAME
TIME, continue increasing for the V-neck and raglan as described below.
V-NECK:
Increase for V-NECK – read description above, inside the bands and 1 stocking stitch on
each side, every 4th row 11-11-12-12-13-14 times (including the increases shown in the
diagrams). 1 cm after the last increase for the V-neck, work the first BUTTONHOLE on the
right band – read description above.
RAGLAN:
Increase on each side of the marker-stitches as described under RAGLAN above, every
2nd row (each row from the right side = 8 increased stitches) 11-20-21-22-23-23 times
(including the increases shown in the diagrams). Then continue to increase for raglan
every 2nd row but every other increase is only on the front and back pieces, i.e., increase
on the front and back pieces every 2nd row, on the sleeves every 4th row (increase
alternately 8 and 4 stitches). Increase like this 11-3-4-4-4-7 times on the front and back
pieces (5-1-2-2-2-3 times on the sleeves). You increase a total of 22-23-25-26-27-30
times on the front and back pieces and 16-21-23-24-25-26 times on the sleeves.
Continue working the bands, moss stitch/A.3 until all the increases are finished. After the
last increase there are 257-281-299-309-321-339 stitches. Continue working without
further increases until the piece measures 20-21-23-24-25-27 cm from mid-back. Work
the last row from the wrong side.
DIVIDE FOR BODY AND SLEEVES:
Work the left band and the next 35-38-41-42-45-50 stitches in moss stitch/A.3, place the
next 49-55-59-61-61-61 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 8-10-12-14-16-18
stitches (in side under sleeve), work the next 71-77-81-85-91-99 stitches in moss
stitch/A.3, place the next 49-55-59-61-61-61 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on
8-10-12-14-16-18 stitches (in side under sleeve), work the next 35-38-41-42-45-50
stitches in moss stitch/A.3, work the right band.
BODY:
= 175-191-205-215-231-253 stitches. Continue with moss stitch/A.3 and the bands as
before until the body measures 22-24-24-25-26-26 cm from the division – with the last
row from the right side. Purl back from the wrong side and increase 18-20-22-24-26-28
stitches evenly spaced (do not increase over the bands) = 193-211-227-239-257-281
stitches.
Change to circular needle size 4 mm and work as follows from the right side: Work the
band as before, * knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* until there are 10 stitches left, knit 1,
work the band as before. Work this rib for 4 cm. Cast off. The jacket measures approx. 51-
54-56-58-60-62 cm from the shoulder.
SLEEVES:
Place the 49-55-59-61-61-61 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on
short circular needle/double pointed needles size 5 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the
8-10-12-14-16-18 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 57-65-71-75-77-79 stitches. Insert
a marker-thread in the middle of the 8-10-12-14-16-18 stitches under the sleeve.
Start at the marker-thread and work moss stitch/A.3 in the round as before – making sure
the pattern continues from the yoke. When the sleeve measures 4-4-4-4-3-3 cm from the
division, decrease 2 stitches under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this
every 6½-4-3-3-3-3 cm a total of 6-9-12-12-13-12 times = 45-47-47-51-51-55 stitches.
Work until the sleeve measures 43-43-42-42-41-40 cm. There is 4 cm left; try the jacket
on and work to desired length before the rib. Knit 1 round and increase 5-7-7-5-5-5
stitches evenly spaced = 50-54-54-56-56-60 stitches. Change to double pointed needles
size 4 mm. Work rib (knit 1, purl 1) for 4 cm. Cast off. The sleeve measures approx. 47-
47-46-46-45-44 cm from the division.
ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons onto the left band. Sew the cast-on edge on each band together and sew
the bands to the neckline – stretching them slightly while sewing.
Diagram explanations
= marker-stitch – knit from right side, purl from wrong side
= knit from right side, purl from wrong side
= purl from right side
= make 1 yarn over which is worked as follows on next row: Slip yarn over knit-wise
onto right needle, insert left needle and replace yarn over onto left needle, purl front
loop
= make 1 yarn over which is purled twisted on next round
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