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*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE BREAD AND
BISCUIT BAKER'S AND SUGAR-BOILER'S ASSISTANT ***
THE
BREAD AND BISCUIT BAKER’S
AND
SUGAR-BOILER’S ASSISTANT
Including a large variety of Modern Recipes
FOR
BREAD — TEA CAKES — HARD AND FANCY BISCUITS — BUNS —
GINGERBREADS — SHORTBREADS — PASTRY — CUSTARDS —
FRUIT CAKES — SMALL GOODS FOR SMALL MASTERS —
CONFECTIONS IN SUGAR — LOZENGES — ICE CREAMS —
PRESERVING FRUIT — CHOCOLATE, ETC., ETC.
WITH REMARKS ON
THE ART OF BREAD-MAKING
AND
CHEMISTRY AS APPLIED TO BREAD-MAKING
BY
ROBERT WELLS
PRACTICAL BAKER, CONFECTIONER, AND PASTRYCOOK, SCARBOROUGH
Second Edition, with Additional Recipes.
LONDON
CROSBY LOCKWOOD AND SON
7, STATIONERS’ HALL COURT, LUDGATE HILL
1890
[All rights reserved.]
PREFACE.
In submitting the following pages for public approval, the Author
hopes that the work may prove acceptable and useful to the Baking
Trade as a Book of Instruction for Learners, and for daily reference
in the Shop and Bakehouse; and having exercised great care in its
compilation, he believes that in all its details it will be found a
trustworthy guide.
From his own experience in the Baker’s business, he is satisfied
that a book of this kind, embodying in a handy form the
accumulated results of the work of practical men, is really wanted;
and as in the choice of Recipes he has been guided by an intimate
acquaintance with the requirements of the trade, and as every
recipe here given has been tested by actual and successful use, he
trusts that the labour which he has bestowed upon the preparation
of the work may be rewarded by its wide acceptance by his brethren
in the trade.
The work being divided into sections, as shown in the Contents,
and a full Index having been added, reference can readily be made,
as occasion may arise, either to a class of goods, or to a particular
recipe.
Any suggestions for the improvement of the work, which the
experience of others may lead them to propose, will, if
communicated to the Author, be gratefully esteemed and carefully
dealt with in future editions.
Scarborough,
October, 1888.
ADVERTISEMENT TO THE SECOND EDITION.
It is very gratifying to both Author and Publishers that this little book
has been so favourably received by the Baking Trade and the public
that a second edition is required within a few months of the first
issue of the work.
The opportunity has been taken to insert some additional recipes
for the whole-meal and other breads which of late have been so
frequently recommended as substitutes for the white bread in
established use, together with some remarks on the subject by
Professors Jago and Graham; and a few corrections in the text (the
necessity for which escaped notice when the work was first in the
press) have also been made.
August, 1889.
CONTENTS.
BREAD AND BISCUIT BAKING, Etc.
PAGE
I.—INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER.
Slow Process in the Art of Bread-making 1
Need of Technical Training 1
Chemistry as applied to Bread-making 2
Process of Fermentation 4
Liebig on the Process of Bread-making 5
Professors Jago and Graham on Brown Bread 7, 8
II.—GENERAL REMARKS ON BAKING.
Baking and its several Branches 10
Essentials of good Bread-making 10
German Yeast and Parisian Barm 11
Recipe for American Patent Yeast 12
Judging between good and bad Flour 13
Liebig on the Action of Alum in Bread 13
Professor Vaughan on Adulteration with Alum 13
Importance of good Butter to the Pastrycook 13
III.—BREAD, TEA CAKES, BUNS, Etc.
1. To make Home-made Bread 17
2. Bread-making by the Old Method 17
3. Modern Way of making Bread 18
4. Scotch Style of making Bread 19
5. Home-made Whole Meal Bread 20
6. Whole Meal Bread for Master Bakers 21
7. Unfermented or Diet Bread 21
8. Rye Bread 22
9. Coarse Bread 22
10.Germ Flour Bread 23
11.Tea Cakes 24
12.Queen’s Bread 24
13.Sally Luns, Yorkshire, or Tea Cakes 24
14. Muffins 25
15. Another Way 25
16.Crumpets 26
17. Oatmeal Cake 27
18.Bath Buns 27
19. Another Way 27
20.Hot Cross Buns 28
21.Chelsea Buns 28
22.Balmoral Cakes 29
23.Balloon or Prussian Cakes 29
24. Saffron Buns 29
25.Cinnamon Buns 30
26.Jubilee Buns 30
27. German Buns 30
28.Common German Buns (for wholesale purposes) 30
29.London Buns 30
30.Penny Queen Cakes 31
31.Patent Flour 31
32.Penny Rice Cakes 31
33.Cocoanut Cakes 31
34. Albert Cakes 31
IV.—GINGERBREAD, PARKINGS, SHORTBREAD, Etc.
35.Queen’s Gingerbread 32
36.German Gingerbread 32
37. Spiced Gingerbread 32
38.Scarborough Gingerbread (for wholesale purposes) 33
39.Ginger Cakes 33
40.Prepared Treacle 33
41.Prepared Treacle for Thick Gingerbread 33
42.Laughing or Fun Nuts 34
43.Grantham or White Gingerbread 34
44. Spice Nuts 34
45. Another Way 34
46. Another Way 34
47. Light Gingerbread 34
48.Italian Jumbles, or Brandy Snaps 35
49.Halfpenny Gingerbread Squares 35
50.Hunting Nuts 36
51.Parkings 36
52. Another Way 36
53.Parking Cake 36
54. Scotch Shortbread 36
55.English Shortbread 37
56.French Shortbread 37
V.—HARD BISCUITS.
57. Machine-made Biscuits 38
58.Ship Biscuits 38
59.Captains’ Biscuits 39
60.Thick Captains 39
61.Abernethy Biscuits (Dr. Abernethy’s original recipe) 39
62.Abernethys as made in London 40
63.Usual Way of making Abernethy Biscuits 40
64. Wine Biscuits 40
65.Soda Biscuits 40
66.Boston Lemon Crackers 41
67. Pic-Nics 41
68.Common Pic-Nics 41
69.Luncheon Biscuits 41
70.Digestive Biscuits 41
71. Another Way 42
72.Small Arrowroot Biscuits 42
73.Coffee Biscuits 42
74. Victoria Biscuits 42
75.Shell Biscuits 43
76.York Biscuits 43
77. Machine Biscuits 43
78.Bath Oliver Biscuits 43
79.Edinburgh Biscuits 43
80.Nursery Biscuits 44
81.Soda Biscuits 44
VI.—FANCY BISCUITS, ALMONDS, Etc.
82.Digestive Biscuits 45
83.Kent Biscuits 45
84. Imperial or Lemon Biscuits 45
85.Venice Biscuits 46
86.Shrewsbury Biscuits 46
87. Another Way 46
88. Another Way 46
89.Peruvian Biscuits 47
90.Currant Fruit Biscuits 47
91.Snowdrop Biscuits 47
92.Rice Biscuits 47
Genoa and Toulouse Biscuits, Exhibition Nuts, and
93. 47
Marseillaise Biscuits
94. Walnut Biscuits 48
95.Queen’s Drops 48
96.Cracknel Biscuits 48
97. Premium Drops 49
98.German Wafers 49
99.Crimp, or Honeycomb Biscuits 49
100. Hermit Biscuits 50
101. Italian Macaroons 50
102. Common Macaroons 50
103. French Macaroons 51
104. Ratafias 51
105. Princess Biscuits 51
106. Rusks 51
107.Rock Almonds (White) 52
108. Rock Almonds (Pink) 52
109. Rock Almonds (Brown) 52
110. Almond Fruit Biscuits 52
111. Meringues 53
112. Another Way 53
113. Common Drop Biscuits 54
114. Savoy Biscuits 54
115. French Savoy Biscuits 54
116. Judges’ Biscuits 54
117.Lord Mayor’s Biscuits 54
118. Fruit Biscuits 54
119. Palais-Royal Biscuits 55
120. Rice Biscuits 55
121. Scarborough Water Cakes 56
122. Sponge Biscuits 56
123. Almond Sponge Biscuits 56
124. Naples Biscuits 56
VII.—PASTRY, CUSTARDS, Etc.
125. Butter for Puff Paste 57
126. Puff Paste 57
127. Another Way 57
128. Crisp Tart Paste 58
129. Sweet Tart Paste 58
130. Paste for a Baked Custard 58
131. Paste for small Raised Pies 58
132. To make a handsome Tartlet 58
133. Nelson Cake or Eccles Cake 58
134. To make a Custard 59
135. Common Custard 59
VIII.—FRUIT CAKES, BRIDE CAKES, Etc.
136. Directions for mixing Cakes made with Butter 60
137. Another Way 60
138. London Way of mixing Cakes 60
139. Another Way of mixing Cakes 61
140. Citron Cake 61
141. Common Fruit Cake 61
142. Pound Cakes 61
143. Seed Cakes 61
144. Two and Three Pound Cakes 62
145. Another Seed Cake 62
146. Four and Six Pound Cakes 62
147.Bride Cakes 62
148. Icing Sugar for Bride Cakes, &c. 63
149. Almond Icing for Bride Cakes 63
150. Wedding Cake 63
151. Rich Twelfth Cake 64
152. Madeira Cakes 64
153. Plum Cake (as made for the best shops in Edinburgh) 64
154. Genoa Cake 64
155. Rice Cake (Scotch Mixture) 64
156. Madeira Cake (Scotch Mixture) 64
157.Pond Cake or Dundee Cake 65
158. Silver Cake 65
159. Gold Cake 65
160. Plum Cake at 6d. per lb. (as sold by Grocers) 65
161. Another Way 65
162. Another Way 65
163. Mystery, or Cheap Plum Cake at 3d. per lb. 66
164. Plum Cake at 4d. per lb. 66
165. Lafayette Cakes 66
166. American Genoa Cake 66
167.Lemon Cake 67
168. Bristol Cake 67
169. Jubilee Cakes 67
IX.—HANDY WHOLESALE RECIPES FOR SMALL MASTERS.
170. Soda Cakes or Scones 68
171. Currant or Milk Scones 68
172. Sugar or White Spice Biscuits 68
173. Halfpenny Scotch Cakes 69
174. Large Square Penny Albert Cake 69
175. Brandy Snaps 69
176. Nonpareil Biscuits 69
177.Common Halfpenny Queen Cake 70
178. Halfpenny Lunch Cake 70
179. Polkas or Halfpenny Sponges 70
SUGAR-BOILING, Etc.
X.—CONFECTIONS IN SUGAR-BOILING.
180. Clarifying Sugar 73
181. Testing Sugar 74
182. To boil Sugar to the degree called “Pearled” 74
183. To boil Sugar to the degree called “Blown” 74
184. To boil Sugar to the degree called “Feathered” 74
185. To boil Sugar to the “Ball” Degree 74
186. To boil Sugar to the degree called “Crackled” 75
187. To boil Sugar to the degree called “Caramelled” 75
188. To boil Sugar by the Thermometer 75
189. Barley Sugar 75
190. Barley Sugar Drops 76
191. Acid Drops 76
192. Pine-apple Drops 76
193. Poppy Drops 76
194. Ginger Drops 77
195. Cayenne Drops 77
196. Ginger Candy 77
197. Lemon Candy 77
198. Peppermint Candy 77
199. Rose Candy 77
200. Burnt Almonds 78
201. Cast Sugar Drops 78
202. Rose Drops 79
203. Orange-flower Drops 79
204. Chocolate Drops 79
205. Coffee Drops 79
206. Barberry Drops 79
207. Peppermint Drops 80
208. Pine-apple Drops 80
209. Vanilla Drops 80
210. Ginger Drops 80
211. Lemon Drops 80
212. Orange Drops 81
213. Pear Drops 81
214. Lavender, Violet, Musk, and Millefleur Drops 81
215. Pink Burnt Almonds 81
216. Philadelphia Caramels 81
217. Boston Chips 82
218. Engagement Favours 82
219. Almond Hardbake 82
220. To make Gum Paste 83
221. To spin a Silver Web 83
222. To spin a Gold Web 83
223. A Spun Sugar Pyramid 84
224. To spin a Gold Sugar Crocanth 84
225. To spin a Gold Cup 84
226. A Spun Sugar Bee-hive 85
227. To Ornament a Bee-hive 85
XI.—COLOURING SUGAR.
228. To prepare Sugar for Colouring 87
229. To colour Sugar 87
230. Blue Colouring 87
231. Carmine Colouring 88
232. Green Colouring 88
233. Another Way 88
234. Orange Colouring 88
235. Red Colouring 89
236. Yellow Colouring 89
XII.—LOZENGES.
237. Peppermint Lozenges 90
238. Rose Lozenges 90
239. Ginger Lozenges 91
240. Transparent Mint Lozenges 91
241. Cinnamon Lozenges 91
242. Clove Lozenges 91
243. Nutmeg Lozenges 91
244. Lavender Lozenges 91
245. Vanilla Lozenges 91
246. Brilliants 91
XIII.—ICE CREAMS.
247. Vanilla Ice Cream 92
248. Bisque or Biscuit Glace 93
249. Crushed Strawberry Ice Cream 93
250. Hokey Pokey 93
251. Cocoanut Ice 94
XIV.—PRESERVING FRUITS.
252. Large Strawberries 95
253. Strawberry Jam 96
254. Raspberry Jelly 97
255. Black Currant Jelly 97
256. Red Currant Jam 97
257. Apple Jelly 97
258. Gooseberry Jam 98
259. Orange Marmalade 98
XV.—CHOCOLATE.
260. General Directions for Making Chocolate 99
261. Chocolate Harlequin Pistachios 100
262. Chocolate Drops with Nonpareils 100
263. Chocolate in Moulds 100
THE BREAD AND BISCUIT BAKER’S
ASSISTANT.
I. INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER.
When we reflect upon the present conditions under which the bread-
making industry is carried on in most of the large cities and towns of
England, Scotland, and Ireland, and remember the importance of
that industry to mankind, we cannot but be impressed by the little
progress that has been made in the art of bread-making. Whilst
other industries have been marked by important improvements, we
find bread being made in much the same manner as it was five
hundred years ago. The mystery is how—by accident, it would seem
—we get such well-made bread as we do. There are very few even
now who have the slightest conception of what yeast really is, and
fewer still who know how or why it makes bread light. But it will
surprise me if the trade does not undergo, in the course of the next
ten years, a complete and beneficial change.
Master bakers and confectioners are everywhere complaining of
the incompetency of their workmen; and it cannot be denied that
there is some ground for the complaint. Proper training in the baking
and confectionery trade is of great importance. A trained servant
gives satisfaction to his employer, and receives a responsive good
feeling in return.
Let us see what is meant by “training.” In its broadest and best
sense, it is knowing what to do, and when and how to do it.
Take the first condition—What to do. This may be considered on
two grounds, generally known as the practical and the theoretical,
though the latter is sometimes confounded with the scientific, and
people are led to sneer at science. Much has been said lately in our
trade journals about introducing scientific chemistry to the
journeyman baker in connection with his daily work of making bread.
But how many journeyman bakers could we find that even
understand the meaning of the word chemistry, without expecting
them to understand mysteries to which years of study have been
devoted by such men as Liebig, Graham, Dumas, Darwin, Pasteur,
and Thoms of Alyth?
Chemistry as applied to Bread-Making.
It is not my intention to depreciate the great good that would be
derived from scientific chemistry if properly applied to bread-making.
But who is to study and apply it? Surely not a man who earns from
20s. to 30s. per week, and works twelve, fourteen, and sixteen
hours a day in an overheated atmosphere. What hours of rest he
has should be used to recuperate his lost vitality. Not till scientific
chemistry is taught in our Board schools and made one of the
elements of a scholar’s ordinary education, can we hope to see it
used successfully with bakers in making bread.
Chemistry, I believe, is destined to play as important a part in the
annals of the baking trade as did the substitution of machinery for
hand labour. But at the present day how many bakers know that the
decomposition of sugar produces fermentation; that fermentation
destroys sugar and produces alcohol; that maltose assists
fermentation; that starch, however obtained, has always the same
characteristics, though there are different kinds from different
sources; that dextrine is soluble in water and insoluble in alcohol;
that protoplasm, the basis of all life, consists of protein, compounds,
mineral salts, nitrogen, &c.? And do not the meaning and use of
terms familiar in scientific chemistry—such as diastase, cerealin,
gluten, and others—only perplex the ordinary journeyman baker, and
make him think that the less he has to do with science, the more
easily he will get his life “rubbed through.” It is impossible for
working bakers to become acquainted with these things while in the
bakehouse; and while there are in many towns such valuable
institutions as free libraries, mechanics’ institutes, &c., they are not
available to the ordinary baker, as his hours are so exceptional. The
baker’s hours of labour, indeed, are shorter in many places than they
used to be, and he is no longer called “the white slave.” Still, the
spirit of competition is so strong that a baker has to work much
harder proportionally than other working men, and his mind is in no
condition, in the little spare time he has, to study the problems of
science; and nobody can expect the baker to know, as it were by
intuition, the whys and the wherefores of chemistry. However, what
he has learnt in the practice of his art, and what the common
custom of the trade has handed down to him, he may use to more
or less advantage, according as he has more or less personal skill. In
the case of fermentation, which may be described as the very
backbone of bread-making, a baker will find plenty to study and to
think about, from his first “setting the sponge” until his bread is out
of the oven, without perplexing himself over problems about which
he can understand little or nothing.
With time and money at his disposal, however, the study of
chemistry opens up a wide field to the studious baker, and would no
doubt reward him for his pains, and at the same time prove a great
gain to his trade; and I believe there are not a few earnest workers
labouring at the present time to afford that knowledge and help to
the journeyman baker which will eventually lead to an easier way of
earning his daily bread.
Fermentation.
The process of fermentation, which has for its object either the
manufacture of bread, or of an alcoholic product in a more or less
concentrated form, is very similar in action during its earlier stages.
It commences with the growth and multiplication of the fermenting
germs contained in the minute organisms floating in the air, the
inorganic constituents of the water, and the protoplasm (essence of
life) of the yeast; and all the changes brought about are
accompanied by heat. Fermentation is caused by the decomposition
of the starch and gluten of a solution of either potatoes, flour, or
malted barley, which decomposition is accompanied by an evolution
of gas. There is also a peculiar vibration given to the various bodies
in contact, which agitates the whole. This agitation is increased by
the bursting of the starch-cells and the formation therefrom of
maltose, and also by the changing of the maltose sugar into
carbonic acid gas. Substances in a state of decomposition are
capable of bringing about a change in the chemical composition of
bodies with which they are in contact. Most of the vegetable
substances used in fermentation have a constituent part—sugar,
starch, or some other substance—which is easily converted into a
fermentable sugar by the action of yeast, or of diluted mineral acids,
or by a constituent of malted barley, called diastase. The sugar
produced by these means is resolved into carbonic acid gas and
alcohol by vinous fermentation. It will be seen, therefore, that
fermentation is started by the saccharine element in the ferment,
which is termed maltose; the process is then kept up by the gluten,
which, becoming decomposed, aids the sugar and starch in the work
of providing food for the yeast as soon as the latter is brought in
contact with it. The fermentation then takes place very rapidly, and
carbonic acid gas is generated and given off in proportion to the
amount of the products contained in the ferment, or sponge, and
also to the strength and freshness of the yeast: especially is this so
with gluten, which is the great agent of fermentation, when in a
state of decomposition and when in contact with yeast.
Process of Bread-Making.
It will be useful to give here some remarks by the great scientist,
Liebig, on the best process of making bread:—
“Many chemists are of opinion that flour by the fermentation in
the dough loses somewhat of its nutritious constituents, from a
decomposition of the gluten; and it has been proposed to render the
dough porous without fermentation by means of substances which
when brought into contact yield carbonic acid. But on a closer
investigation of the process this view appears to have little
foundation.
“When flour is made into dough with water, and allowed to stand
at a gentle warmth, a change takes place in the gluten of the dough,
similar to that which occurs after the steeping of barley in the
commencement of germination in the seeds in the preparation of
malt; and in consequence of this change the starch (the greater part
of it in malting; in dough only a small percentage) is converted into
sugar, a small portion of the gluten passes into the soluble state, in
which it acquires the properties of albumen, but by this change it
loses nothing whatever of its digestibility or of its nutritive value.
“We cannot bring flour and water together without the formation
of sugar from the starch, and it is this sugar and not the gluten of
which a part enters into fermentation, and is resolved into alcohol
and carbonic acid.
“We know that malt is not inferior in nutritive power to barley
from which it is derived, although the gluten contained in it has
undergone a much more profound alteration than that of flour in the
dough, and experience has taught us that in distilleries where spirits
are made from potatoes, the plastic constituents of the potatoes,
and of the malt which is added after having gone through the entire
course of the processes of the formation and the fermentation of the
sugar, have lost little or nothing of their nutritive value. It is certain,
therefore, that in the making of bread there is no loss of gluten.
“Only a small part of the starch of the flour is consumed in the
production of sugar, and the fermentative process is not only the
simplest and best but also the cheapest of all the methods which
have been recommended for rendering bread porous. Besides,
chemical preparations ought never, as a rule, to be recommended by
chemists, for culinary purposes, since they hardly ever are found
pure in ordinary commerce. For example, the commercial crude
muriatic acid which it is recommended to add to the dough along
with bicarbonate of soda, is always most impure, and often contains
arsenic, so that the chemist never uses it without a tedious process
of purification for his purposes, which are of far less importance than
making bread light and porous.
“To make bread cheaper it has been proposed to add to dough
potato starch or dextrine, rice, the pressed pulp of turnips, pressed
raw potatoes, or boiled potatoes; but all these additions only
diminish the nutritive value of bread. Potato starch, dextrine, or the
pressed pulp of turnips, and beet-root, when added to flour, yield a
mixture the nutritive value of which is equal to the entire potato, or
lower still, but no one can consider the change of grain or flour into
a food of equal value with potatoes or rice an improvement. The
true problem is to render the potatoes or rice similar or equal to
wheat in their effects, and not vice versâ. It is better under all
circumstances to boil the potatoes and eat them as such, than to
add potatoes or potato starch to flour before it is made into bread,
which should be strictly prohibited by police regulation on account of
the cheating to which it would inevitably give rise.”
Brown Bread.
With regard to the nutritive qualities of brown bread, Professor
Jago (who I think one of our highest authorities) says that whole
meal, and flour from which the bran and germ have not been
removed, do not keep well. These bodies contain oil and nitrogenous
principles which readily decompose, producing rancidity and
mustiness in flavour. Not only do these changes occur in the flour,
but they also proceed apace in the dough. The diastastic bodies of
the bran and germ attack the starch, and more or less convert it into
dextrine and maltose; they further attack the gluten, and that
remarkably elastic body which confers on wheaten flour, alone of all
the cereals, the power of forming a light, spongy, well-risen loaf. The
gluten, under the action of the bran and germ, loses its elasticity,
and becomes fragile and incapable of retaining the gas produced
during fermentation; the result is heavy, sodden, indigestible bread.
Evidence of this is found in the fact that while whole-meal loaves
are so excessively baked as to produce a crust two or three times
the ordinary thickness, the interior is still in a damp and sodden
condition. This is the effect of bran in whole-meal.
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