Designed by Ekaterina Borisova

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Dear crochet lovers!
Thank you for purchasing this
pattern! I really hope that crochet will
be easy for you and you fully enjoy
the whole process of work!..
I want to say a few words about the
doll…
This is a girl in “Country” style. Doll is
28 cm / 11 inches height, but the
tension and yarn may differ, so the
size of the toy may vary too.

Her face is embroidered with

Mouline floss, her arms are made
with the wire frame and the legs can
move due to the split pins joints. She
can sit, stand and move her arms and
legs.
The outfit is completely removable
and consists of: a body suit with
stripes, a warm mohair pullover, airy
shorts, sport shoes, straw hat and
straw shoulder bag.

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In this pattern, you will learn to:
- crochet the doll's body using split pins joints and wire
frame;
- embroider eyes, eyebrows and mouth with Mouline
floss;
- knit an outfit in “Country” style.
I would like to introduce you with my other dolls, the
patterns are already available. You can also crochet them
or create a new outfit for your ready doll. Note, all sets
of clothes are suitable to all my dolls.
This pattern is a work of authorship and it intends only
for personal use. Full or partial reproduction and
distribution, sales and publications on the Internet are
forbidden!!!
I would love to see your finished creation, so please do
tag @kb_loveknitting and provide a credit Ekaterina
Borisova as the designer on Instagram!
Never hesitate to contact me
if you have any questions
with regards to this
pattern…I will do all my best
to help you.
You can contact me or see
the other patterns through
websites:

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https://vk.com/kb_loveknitting
https://www.etsy.com/shop/KBloveknitting?ref=seller-platform-mcnav
Instagram: @kb_loveknitting
Write me through e-mail: [email protected]
https://www.ravelry.com/people/KBloveknitting
The doll is made with great love and it is safe for kids +3 years. It can be a great gift
for any girl!

Best Regards, Ekaterina Borisova

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The required materials:

1.Yarn
For doll:

YarnArt Jeans (50 g / 160 m, cotton - 55%, polyacryl - 45%) color 03 milk, for body,
1 ball.
For clothes:
YarnArt "JEANS" - (50 gr /160 m, 55% cotton 45% polyacrylic ) 70 – brown mélange,
1 ball; Jeans YarnArt, 48 - dark brown, 1 ball; REX Kid Mohair (Italy) (25 gr /220 m,
70% mohair, 30% polyamide) color 2387 honey mustard, 1 ball; Tunc Dolly (100%
acrylic) 100 gr/225 m, color blue. 1 ball;
Natural Jute Twine 1 –ply (for hat and
bag) – 1 piece.
2. Crochet hook №1,75, DPNs №2.5 (5
pcs), circular knitting needles №2.5
3. Stuffing materials Fiberfill;
4. Mouline floss (brown, black, white,
blue) for embroidering the face,
corrector pen of white color;
5. Stitch marker, sewing needle for
embroidering;
6. Scissors, pliers;
7. 4 buttons (4 mm) – for body suit, 3 buttons (6 mm) – for shorts;
8. Split pins (25 cm) and disks (15 mm);
9. Wire of average thickness;
10. Thick cardboard (plastic) for insoles;
11. Wool Mouline floss for hair (brown color) – 20 pcs

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ABBREVIATIONS (US terms):
ch = chain
dec = decrease
inc = increase
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet
dtr = double treble crochet
sl st = slip stitch
st = stitch
HDC = half double crochet
***
k – knit
p - purl
edge st – edge stitch
inc – increase
dec – decrease
* repeat the specified number of times
The number in the brackets at the end of each row shows how many stitches should
be in the round.

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Split pin connectors:
What are split pin connectors? They are
traditionally used in a crocheted doll. Such
connectors give a mobility to hands and
legs. They turn freely meanwhile the
connectors are very reliable. We need a T-
shaped split pins, disks, pliers and details of
the toy.
Take a split pin and push it through the first
detail of the toy.
Then insert a split pin into the second
detail of the toy, put the disk on top and
with the help of the pliers twist the ends of
the split pins clockwise. Trust me, it is very
easy!

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 Left and Right Leaning decreases
Left- leaning decrease (SSK)

1. First you slip the first stitch purl-wise.

Then insert the right needle into the next
stitch on the left needle as if you are going
to knit it, then simply let it slip off the left
needle.
2. Slip the next stitch in the same way i.e.
insert the right needle into the next stitch
on the left needle and let it slip off.
3. Now insert the left needle into both of these slipped stitches on your right
needle, crossed in front of the right needle as in the image to the left.
4. Wrap the yarn around the right needle as for a regular knit stitch.
5. Pull the right needle through to the front and slip the stitches off the left
needle as for one regular knit stitch. Voila! You have now decreased one
stitch. You'll find that the decrease will slant to the left, which is perfect. Well
done!
Right- leaning decrease(K2tog)
1. Insert the right needle into the first two stitches on the left needle as if
you are going to knit them.
2. Wrap the yarn, pull it through and slip the stitch off as for a regular knit
stitch.
3. You have now decreased one stitch.

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 THE FRONT AND BACK POST STITCH
Front post stitch

1. First, start with a row of double crochets.

2. For a double crochet, yarn over once. Now, insert your hook from the back
around to the front of the dc from the previous row (exiting next to the post
of the dc). A dc is considered a post here and as you are pushing the post to
the front it is considered a front post.
3. Yarn over as you normally would for a double crochet.
4. Pull the just yarned over yarn through 2 loops on your hook. Yarn over and
pull the yarn through the last 2 loops. You now made your first front post
double crochet. Then chain 2 and turn.
5. Now repeat steps 2 to 4 for more front post double crochets. The idea is that
you do not insert the hook thru the front and back loop, but rather go around
the stitch from the previous row. Which means you can do that for many
other basic crochet stitches as well.

Back post stitch

1. In order to crochet a back post double crochet, yarn over and insert the hook
from the back in front of the double crochet you are working on (the dc is
the post).
2. Now, push the hook around the dc (the post) back to the back (which is why
it is called a back post).
3. Now yarn over as you normally would for a double crochet.

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4. And finish up the stitch like a normal double crochet. You now created one
back post double crochet stitch where both the first row dc and the 2nd row
dc are push towards the back.

POPCORN STITCH PATTERN

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BODY
ARM х 2
Use YarnArt Jeans color 03 beige, crochet
hook №1.75
Work 2 arms.
Round 1: 6 sc in a magic ring (6)
Round 2: 6 inc (12)
Round 3: (2 sc, inc) х 4 (16)
Round 4-6: 16 sc (16)
Round 7: Left arm sc, Hdc5tog, 4 DC, 10 sc (16)
Right arm sc, 4 DC, Hdc5tog,10 sc (16)
Round 8: 15 sc (we do not work into the puff stitch)
Round 9-11: 15 sc
Round 12: (3 sc, dec) х 3 (12)
Round 13-25: 12 sc (12 rounds)
Left arm + 6 sc in the last round.
Stuff lightly in the process of crocheting. Secure the yarn and hide. We will crochet
the arms into the body and insert the wire inside later.
Note: Do not cut the yarn until you did not crochet a body. Later you can regulate
the length of the arms.
LEGS х 2
FEET х 2
YarnArt Jeans color 03 beige color,
crochet hook №1.75
Chain 7 and work into the 2nd stitch:
Round 1: 5 sc, 4 inc into 1 stitch, 5 sc, 3
inc into 1 st (17)
Round 2: 5 sc, 4 inc, 5 sc, 3 inc (24)

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Round 3: 7 sc, 4 inc, 9 sc, 2 inc, 2 sc (30)
Round 4: 9 sc, 4 inc, 12 sc, 2 inc, 3 sc (36)
Trace the outline of the foot twice onto plastic and cut them out.

Round 5: 36 sc through back loops

Rounds 6-7: 36 sc
Round 8: 8 sc, (dec, 1 sc)х4, 16 sc
(32)
Round 9: 3 sc, 8 dec, 3 sc, dec, 6 sc,
dec (22)
Note: decreasing are exactly in the
center. If they are not in the center,
then use a shift st/s for a new BOR
Rounds 10: 22 sc (insert the insole)
Round 11: 3 sc, 4 dec, 11 sc (18)
Rounds 12-14: 18 sc (3 rounds)
Round 15: inc, 10 sc, inc, 6 sc (20) The
increases are in the center
Rounds 16-21: 20 sc (6 rounds)
Start stuffing with fiberfill.
Round 22: 18 sc, 1 dec (19)
Round 23: 19 sc (19)

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Round 24: 7 sc, 6 inc, 6 sc
The increases of the knee are exactly in the center in the front of the leg.
Round 25: 25 sc (25)
Round 26: 7 sc, 6 dec, 6 sc (19)
Round 27: 19 sc (19)
Round 29: 16 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc (20)
The increase is in the center in the
back of the left.
Rounds 30-31: 20 sc

Round 32: 2 sc, 1 inc, 8 sc, 1 inc, 8 sc (22)

Rounds 33-34: 22 sc (2 rounds)
Round 35: 4 sc, 1 inc, 10 sc, 1 inc, 6 sc (24)
Rounds 36-39: 24 sc (4 rounds)
Round 40: (1 dec, 2 sc) х 6 (18)
See the photo below.
In this round, we insert the disk with pin.
You can read about the split pin fastening at the beginning of the pattern.
In the right leg we insert the split pin exactly in the middle of the left side, and in
the left leg we insert the split pin in the middle of the right side. The split pin is
exactly in the middle of the side!
Round 41: (dec, 1 sc) х 6 (12)
Stuff firmly.

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Round 42: 6 dec (6)

Bind off, cut off the yarn, secure and hide.

Our legs are ready!

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BODY
Round 1: 6 sc into MR (6)
Round 2: 6 inc (12)
Round 3: (sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)
Round 4: (2 sc, 1 inc) х 6 (24)
Round 5: (3 sc, inc) х 6 (30)
Round 6: (4 sc, inc) х 6 (36)
Round 7: (5 sc, inc) х 6 (42)
Round 8: (6 sc, inc)х6 (48)
Round 9: (7 sc, inc) х 6 (54)
Round 10: (8 sc, inc) х 6 (60)
Round 10: (8 sc, inc) х 6 (60)
Round 11: 60 sc
Attach the legs to the body between
the 6th and the 7th rounds with the
help of the split pin.

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Put the disk onto the split pin. Twist FIRMLY the ends with the help of the pliers.
Round 12: (8 sc, dec)х6 (54)
Round 13: (7 sc, dec)х 6 (48)
Round 14: 48 sc (48)
Round 15: (6 sc, dec) х 6 (42)
Round 16: 42 sc (42)
Round 17: (5 sc, dec)х6 (36)
See the photo on the left.
Rounds 18-21: 36 sc (4 rounds)
Round 22: (5 sc, inc) х6 (42)
Round 23: 42 sc
Round 24: (6 sc, inc)х 6 (48)
Round 25-26: 48 sc (2 rounds)
Create the carcass from the wire for the arms and the neck. See the photo below:

The ends of the wire must be rounded. This is necessary so that the sharp ends of
the wire do not go out. The length of the frame from the end of the arm to the end
of the neck is 18-20 cm / 7- 7.8 inches.
Start to crochet the arms into the body. Move the stitch marker 3 sts back.
Round 27: 18 sc, work 6 sc along the arms and the body together, 18 sc on the back,
6 sc along the body and the arm together (48)

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 See the pattern on the left.
Round 28: 48 sc (work over the arm)
Round 29: 8 sc, 1 dec, 7 sc, 1 dec
(along the arm and the body), 4 sc, 1
dec (along the arm and the body), 7
sc, 1 dec, 7 sc, 1 dec (along the body
and the arm), 4 sc, 1 dec (along the
arm and the body) (42)
Round 30: (5 sc, 1 dec) х 6 (36)
Round 31: (4 sc, 1 dec) х 6 (30)
Note: Join the arms with the body on
the wrong side of the arm. Do not crochet through both sides of the arms!
See the photo below:

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Note: join the arm with the body along the inner part of the arm. We must not to
crochet into both sides of the arm.

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Insert the wire frame and stuff the arms gently.
Round 32: (3 sc, dec) х 6 (24)
Round 33: (2 sc, dec) х6 (18)
Round 34: (1 sc, dec) х 6 (12)

Complete stuffing the body

firmly, shape the shoulders.
NECK
Round 35-38: 12 sc
HEAD
Round 1: (inc, 1 sc)х6 (18) through back loops
Round 2: (inc, 2 sc) х 6 (24)
Round 4: (inc, 4 sc) х 6 (36)
Round 5: (inc, 5 sc) х 6 (42)
Round 6: (inc, 6 sc) х 6 (48)
Round 7: (inc, 7 sc) х 6 (54)
Round 8: (inc, 8 sc) х 6 (60)
Round 9: (inc, 9 sc) х 6 (66)
Rounds 10-19: 66 sc (10 rounds)
Round 20: (dec, 9 sc) х 6 (60)
Round 21: (dec, 8 sc) х 6 (54)

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Round 22: (dec, 7 sc) х 6 (48)
Round 23: (dec, 6 sc) х 6 (42)
Round 24: (dec, 5 sc) х 6 (36)
Round 25: (dec, 4 sc) х 6 (30)
Round 26: (dec, 3 sc) х6 (24)
Do not forget to stuff with
fiberfill.
Round 27: (dec, 2 sc) х 6 (18)

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Round 28: (dec, 1 sc) х 6 (12)
Stuff the head firmly.
Round 29: 6 dec
Embroider the nose in the center
of the head, it must be in the 12th
round if you count from the last
round of the neck. Cut the yarn of
the same color and insert it into 2
sc with the hook. Work 2-3 sts to
the side as you see in the photo.
You also can embroider the nose
with the help of the sewing needle.
EARS х 2
6 sc into MR
Work two ears and attach to the
head.
Attach the ears on the head between the 13th and the 15th rounds. The bottom
part of the ear secure in the 13th round and the upper part of the ear secure in the
15th round, see photo below:

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Secure in a slip stitch. You also can sew the
ears to the head with the sewing needle.

Congratulation! The body of the doll is done!

She can sit, stand and move the hands. Now we
are going to the most important part of the
pattern. Let us move to embroidery the face!
EYES
We embroider the eyes with Moline floss. It is not difficult at all! At the beginning,
I will give a pattern with step-by-step description of embroidering the eyes so that
you have an idea about eye, eyebrow and mouth embroidery. Then I will add many
photos with its description.
This doll has blue eyes, so we will use blue, black, brown and white flosses. We will
embroider with the help of sewing needle. Mouline is 6 ply floss. We embroider
with 2-ply floss.
We embroider both eyes at once, so they will be symmetrical! Now let us start
embroidering:
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 Pattern:
- upper eye’s line;
- pupils;
- outer line;
- fill the iris;
- white eye, glare;
- outline the counter of the eye,
eyelashes, nose and lower line;
- eyebrows, mouth, repeat the
lines if needed.

STEP 1. Embroider the upper eye’s

border. To do this, take a thin
needle with black floss. You need
it as the border of our eye. The
upper eye’s line starts in the 2nd
round from the nose, 2 sc to the
side. Embroider the second eye’s
border at a distance of 4 sc.

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Insert the needle with black floss
on the back of the head, pull out at
the edge of the eye and embroider
in a Running Stitch. Work two lines
at once.
Note: Do not insert the needle very
deep.
STEP 2. Embroider a pupil of the
eye. Do not be afraid of
irregularities, you will smooth and
form the circles later. See photo
on the right:
STEP 3. Embroider the outer line
of the eye with blue color.
STEP 4. Embroider the center of
the eye. Insert the needle near the
outer border and come back near
the pupil. Repeat and work in a
round as follow.
We embroider two eyes symmetrically. See the photo:
Note: we do not cut threads of other colors, we still need them for correction. (See
photo)
STEP 5. Start embroidering the borders of the white with white floss. Now make
glares on the pupils to revive the view with white floss.

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Note: To make the white of the
eye more visible, I use special
white corrector! I put it around
the eye and on the glares. See the
photo below:

STEP 6. Embroider the upper and

bottom lines of the eye with
black floss again. Correct all lines
of the eye.
STEP 7: Embroider the eyelashes.
Pull out all floss to the top of the
head and cut them off.
Embroider the eyebrows and
mouth.
We use brown floss (I use the same floss that I use for hair, 1 ply).
Eyebrows: make the arc and twist stitches along the arch in the opposite direction.
Mouth: insert brown floss 2 sc below the nose and 2 sc to the left, pull the floss 6
sc in parallel, 2 sc below the nose on the right. From point A to point B. There is no
need to embroider the mouth several times. It is enough to pull the floss only one

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time! Pull floss to the top of the
head, secure and cut off. Move
the floss down with your finger to
get an arc (smile). See the photo
on the right:

HAIR
Use wool Mouline floss of brown
color. We need 20 pcs and crochet
hook №1.75
See photo of the floss on the right:
This floss is 1-ply, so it is very thin.
We work with 4-6 flosses together.
Take the first piece of floss and cut
out in the middle of the top, see
photo below:

We have pieces of the same length

(30 cm).
The length of floss depends on the desired
length of hair.
Start attaching hair on the top of the head
in a round.

26
Insert the hook into the middle stitch. Grab the folded thread by the middle and
pull it out.
Pull the ends of the thread through the formed loop and tight firmly.
Work in this way in each stitch, moving in a round. Then decide how your hair will
go on the sides. I usually just smoothly come down on each row. See photo:
Continue working in the same way.

Work is done! We must trim the ends of the hair

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Please note, that each doll will have the completely different look and face. I am
sure, that each doll will be beautiful!!!

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 OUR DOLL IS READY! START TO DRESS?! 

Set of clothes in “Country” style.

Body suit
YarnArt "JEANS" - (50 gr /160 m, 55% cotton 45% polyacrylic ) 70 – brown mélange,
1 ball; Jeans YarnArt, 48 - dark brown, crochet hook №1.75

Work the body from the bottom to the top.

Front part:
Cast on 10 and work into the 2nd st from hook, work in forth and back rows.
Round 1: 8 DC, turn (8)
Round 2: 2 ch, 8 DC, turn (8)
Round 3: 2 ch, 1 DC, 1 inc DC, 4 DC, 1 inc DC, 1 DC, turn (10)
Round 4: 2 ch, 1 DC, 1 inc DC, 6 DC, 1 inc DC, 1 DC, turn (12)
Round 5: 2 ch, 1 DC, 1 inc DC, 8 DC, 1 inc DC, 1 DC (14)
Cut off the yarn and secure.
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Back part:
Cast on 10 and work in the 2nd st from hook, work forth and back in rows.
Round 1: 8 DC, turn (8)
Round 2: 2 ch, 1 DC, bind off 1 DC
(button hole), 4 DC, bind off 1 DC
(button hole), 1 DC, turn (8)
Round 3: 2 ch, 8 DC, turn (8)
Round 4: 2 ch, 1 DC, 1 inc DC, 4 DC, 1 inc
DC, 1 DC, turn (10)
Round 5: 2 ch, 1 DC, 1 inc DC, 6 DC, 1 inc DC, 1 DC, turn (12)
Round 6: 2 ch, 1 DC, 1 inc DC, 8 DC, 1 inc DC, 1 DC (14)
Join two parts and continue crocheting in a
round.
Chain 11 and join in a sl st to the front part.
Cut off the yarn, secure and hide.
Attach the yarn to the other end of the back
part and chain 11, join in a sl st to the front
part. We have 50 sts. Place a stitch marker –
it is a beginning of round.
Continue working in a round.
Rounds 7-9: 2 ch, 50 DC, sl st (50)
Round 10: 2 ch, 1 dec DC, 12 DC, 2 dec DC, 9
DC, 2 dec DC, 12 DC, 2 dec DC, 9 DC, 1
dec DC, sl st (42)
Round 11: 2 ch, 1 dec DC, 10 DC, 2 dec
DC, 7 DC, 2 dec DC, 10 DC, 2 dec DC, 7 DC,
1 dec DC, sl st (34)
Round 12: (dark beige) 2 ch, 34 DC (34)

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Round 13: (brown) 2 ch, 34 DC (34)
Round 14: (dark beige) 2 ch, 34 DC (34)
Round 15: (brown) 2 ch, 34 DC (34)
Work only the front side.
Round 16: 2 ch, 12 DC through front loops, turn
(12)
Rounds 17-18: 2 ch, 12 DC, turn (12)
Cut off the yarn, secure and hide.
Attach the yarn to the back part, 5 DC from the
front part.
Round 19: 2 ch, 12 DC through front loops,
turn (12)
Rounds 20-21: 2 ch, 12 DC, turn (12)
Work the stripes:
Rounds 22-29: 2 ch, 3 DC, turn (3)
Round 30: 2 ch, 1 DC, skip 1 and 1 ch
(buttonhole), 1 DC (2)
Round 31: 2ch, 3 DC, turn (3)
Cut off the yarn, secure and hide.
Work the second stripe symmetrically.
Note: work the length of the stripe and the
buttonhole as desired. Add or decrease a few
rows.
Sew the buttons. 2 buttons are between the
legs and two buttons on the front part.

31
Work the strips on the sides and in the
middle of the body with dark beige
yarn. See the pattern on the right:
Our body suit is ready!
Pullover
REX Kid Mohair (Italy) (25 gr /220 m, 70% mohair, 30% polyamide) color 2387 honey
mustard, DPNs or circular needles №2.5
Work the jacket from the bottom to the top with Raglan.
Cast on 100 on the circular needles and work 8 rounds in a knit st in a round. (You
can use DPNs and divide sts: 25+25+25+25)
Rounds 1 - 9: 100 kn in a round
(100)

Round 10: dec in each st (50)

Rounds 11-34: knit 24 rounds (50)

Put aside your work and start

knitting the sleeves separately.

Sleeves х 2:

Cast on 20 on DPNs and divide sts

into 3 needles: 7+7+6 and work in
a Stockinette St 12 rounds in a
round.

We do not bind off. Crochet around

the bottom of the sleeve as follows
the pattern below:

Work the second sleeve similarly.

32
Joining:

Now we knit sleeves with the main piece of jacket together and start Raglan
decreasing.

Slip 3 sts of each sleeve and 3 sts from the

sides of the main part in the place of the
sleeves into the stitch marker, we slipped
12 sts. See photo:

Join sts of the sleeves to the main piece:

22 sts (back), 17 sts (sleeve), 22 sts
(front), 17 sts (sleeve). There are 78 sts.

Work 1 round in a Stockinette St in a

round. Start Raglan decreasing in the
next round.

Pattern:

Place the Pullover right side facing.

Decrease in the following way: 1 dec
right leaning before the beginning of the
sleeve, 1 dec left leaning inside the
sleeve, 1 dec right leaning at the end of

the sleeve and 1 dec left

leaning in the back. There are
8 decreases. Red points in the
pattern below are decreases.

Note: you can see how to work

decreases right and left
leaning at the beginning of the
pattern.

Now, start BOR in the 1st st in

the front. We knitted all sts of

33
the sleeve and start knitting the front, here we place a stitch maker in the 1st st and
start knitting:

Round 1: 2 k, 1 SSK, 14 k, 1 K2tog, 2 k (front sts); 2 k, 1 SSK, 9 k, 1 K2tog, 2 k (sleeve

sts); 2 k, 1 SSK, 14 k, 1 K2tog, 2 k (back sts); 2 k, 1 SSK, 9 k, 1 k2tog, 2 k (sleeve sts).
(70)

Round 2: 2 k, 1 SSK, 12 k, 1 k2tog, 2 k (front); 2 k, 1 SSK, 7 k, 1 k2tog, 2 k (sleeve); 2

k, 1 SSK, 12 k, 1 k2tog, 2 k (back); 2 k, 1 SSK, 7 k, 1 k2tog, 2 k (sleeve) (62)

Round 3: 2 k, 1 SSK, 10 k, 1 k2tog, 2 k (front); 2 k, 1 SSK, 5 k, 1 k2tog, 2 k (sleeve); 2

k, 1 SSK, 10 k, 1 k2tog, 2 k (back); 2 k, 1 SSK, 5 k, 1 k2tog, 2 k (sleeve) (54)

Round 4: 2 k, 1 SSK, 8 k, 1 k2tog, 2 k (front); 2 k, 1 SSK, 3 k, 1 k2tog, 2 k (sleeve), 2

k, 1 SSK, 8 k, 1 k2tog, 2 k (back); 2 k, 1 SSK, 3 k, 1 k2tog, 2 k (sleeve) (46)

Round 5: 46 k (46)

Collar

Rounds 6-15: work 10 rounds in

ribbing 2х2, *2 k, 2 p, repeat from
* to the end.

Bind off all sts in ribbing st, for the

collar to stretch.

Sew stitches in the markers with the help of

the sewing needle and the yarn of the same
color. See photo:

34
Belt

Use any yarn of the contrast collar. We need 30 cm or chain 30 cm length. Insert
the belt into sts on the 10th round from below of the pullover. Dress on the pullover
and tighten the belt firmly.

The pullover is ready!

Shorts

Tunc Dolly (100% acrylic) 100 gr/225 m, DPNs, crochet hook №1.75

Cast on 50 on DPNs. Divide them into 3 sts: 17+17+16

35
Work 5 rounds in ribbing 1х1, where 1 k, 1 p

Rounds 1-2: *1 k, 1 p, repeat from * in a round (50)

Round 3: 1 k, 1 p, bind off 2 (button hole), *1 k, 1 p, repeat from * to the end of the
round (48)

Round 4: 1 k, 1 p, 2 yo, *1 k, 1 p, repeat from * to the end of the round (50)

Round 5: *1 k, 1 p, repeat
from * in a round (50)

Round 6: inc in each st, we do

not inc into the first and the
last sts (98)

Divide into 4 needles:

25+25+25+23

Start working in popcorn st

from the 7th round. How to
work a popcorn st at the
beginning of the pattern. Work in a round.

The pattern consists of 7 sts.

Rounds 7-8: knit (98)

Round 9: *6 k, 1 popcorn st, repeat from * to

the end of the round (98 sts, 14 popcorn sts)

Rounds 10- 12: knit (98)

Round 13: 3 k, *1 popcorn st, 6 k, repeat from

* to the end of the round (98 sts, 14popcorn sts)

Note: popcorn sts must be in the form of a chequered pattern, i.e. we knit a popcorn
st in the middle of the pattern (3 k + 1 popcorn + 3 k), there are 6 knit sts are between
each popcorn, than we knit 3 rounds and start 1 new round of popcorn pattern
moving a new popcorn 3 sts to the right – see the pattern above:

Rounds 14-16: knit (98)

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Round 17: *6 k, 1 popcorn st, repeat from * to the end of the round (98 sts, 14
popcorn st)

Rounds 18-20: knit (98)

Round 21: 3 k, *1 popcorn st, 6 k, repeat from * to the end of the round (98 sts, 14
popcorn sts)

Rounds 22-23: knit (98)

Start knitting the legs. Divide 98 sts into two, there are 49 sts for each leg. Start
counting from the middle of the front to the left. Slip the remaining 49 sts to the
other needle or piece of yarn.

Knit the right leg in a round.

Divide sts into 3 DPNs:
17+17+15.

Round 24: knit

Round 25: *6 knit, 1 popcorn

st, repeat from * to the end
(there are 7 popcorn sts)

Rounds 26-28: knit

Note popcorn sts must be in the

form of a chequered pattern

Round 29: 3 knit, * 1 popcorn

st, 6 k, repeat from * to the end (there are 7 popcorn sts)

Rounds 30-32: k

Round 33: *6 knit, 1 popcorn st, repeat from * to the end (there are 7 popcorn sts)

Rounds 34-36: k

Round 37: 3 knit, * 1 popcorn st, 6 k, repeat from * to the end (there are 7 popcorn
sts)

Rounds 38-40: k

Round 41: dec k into each st (25)

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Work in forth and back rows!

Round 42: 25 k, chain 6 at the end of the round with the help of the hook and slip
the loops into the needle, we have 31 sts, see photo below:

Round 43: 31 p (31)

Round 44: 31 k (31)

Round 45: 31 p (31)

Round 46: 2 k, bind off 2 sts (button

hole) , 27 k (29)

Round 47: 27 p, 2 yo, 2 p (31)

Round 48: 31 k (31)

Round 49: 31 p (31)

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Round 50: bind off in a knit st.

Work the left leg similarly.

Sew the button at the back on the belt and 2

buttons on the sides of the legs.

Our shorts are ready!

Sport shoes

YarnArt "JEANS" - (50 gr /160 m, 55% cotton

45% polyacrylic ) 70 – brown mélange, 1 ball; Jeans YarnArt, 48 - dark brown,
crochet hook №1.75

Sole

Chain 7 and work into the 2nd st from hook in a round

Round 1: 5 sc, 4 sc in 1 st, 5 sc, 3 sc in1 st (17)

Round 2: 5 HDC, 4 inc HDC, 5 HDC, 3 inc sc

(24)

Round 3: 7 HDC, 4 inc HDC, 7 HDC, 2 sc, 2 inc

sc, 2 sc (30)

Round 4: 9 HDC, 4 inc HDC, 12 HDC, 2 inc

HDC, 3 HDC (36)

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Round 5: 12 HDC, 4 inc HDC, 14 HDC, 1 inc HDC, 3 HDC, 1 inc HDC (42)

Round 6: 42 sc (42)

Round 7: 42 sc through front loops

Rounds 8-10: 42 sc (3 rounds)

Count 14 sts in the front from the middle to

the right and to the left and place two stitch
markers on the sides. See photo:

Work
14 sc to the stitch marker.

Round 11: 1 ch, 1 sc, skip 1 and ch 1, 23 sc,

skip 1 and ch 1, 1 sc, turn (27) buttonholes

Round 12: 1 ch, 2 HDC, skip 1 and ch 1, 24

HDC, skip 1 and ch 1, 2 HDC, turn (27)
buttonholes

Round 13: 1 ch, 2 HDC skip 1 and ch 1, 19

HDC, skip 1 and ch 1, 3 HDC, turn (27) buttonholes

Cut off the yarn, secure and hide.

Attach the yarn of the contrast color from the

left in the front side and work:

Round 1: 14 sc, turn

Round 2: 1 ch, 14 HDC through back loops, turn

Rounds 3-7: 1 ch, 14 HDC

Cut off the yarn, secure and hide.

Shoelace:

Chain 70-80, insert the chain into the

buttonholes.

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 Our shoes are ready!

Hat:

Natural Jute Twine 1 –ply, crochet hook № 1.75

Round 1: 6 sc into MR (6)

Round 2: (inc into each st) х 6 (12)

Round 3: (1 inc, 1 sc) х 6 (18)

Round 4: (1 inc, 2 sc) х 6 (24)

Round 5: (1 inc, 3 sc) х 6 (30)

Round 6: (1 inc, 4 sc) х 6 (36)

Round 7: ( 1 inc, 5 sc) х 6 (42)

Round 8: (1 inc, 6 sc) х 6 (48)

Round 9: (1 inc, 7 sc) х 6 (54)

Round 10: 54 sc through front

loops

Rounds 11-13: 54 sc (54)

Round 14: (1 dec, 7 sc) х 6 (48)

Round 15: 48 sc

Round 16: *inc, 2 sc, repeat to the end of the round (64)

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Rounds 17-20: 2 ch, (2 DC in 1 st, 1 front post st, 1 back post st, 2 DC in 1 st) х 8

You can read how to work a back and front post stitches at the beginning of the
pattern.

Round 21: sc. Cut off the yarn, secure and hide. Decorate the hat. Ready!

Bag

Natural Jute Twine 1 –ply, crochet hook № 1.75

Front part:

Rounds 1: 6 sc into MR (6)

Round 2: (inc into each st) х 6 (12)

Round 3: (1 inc, 1 sc) х 6 (18)

Round 4: (1 inc, 2 sc) х 6 (24)

Round 5: (1 inc, 3 sc) х 6 (30)

Round 6: (1 inc, 4 sc) х 6 (36)

Cut off the yarn, secure and hide.

Work the back part of the bag:

Round 1: 6 sc into MR (6)

Round 2: (inc into each st) х 6 (12)

Round 3: (1 inc, 1 sc) х 6 (18)

Round 4: (1 inc, 2 sc) х 6 (24)

Round 5: (1 inc, 3 sc) х 6 (30)

Round 6: (1 inc, 4 sc) х 6 (36)

Round 7: 2 ch, 36 Dc through front loops, sl

st with front part

Round 8: join two parts in a sc, but leave 6 sc unworked. 28 sc.

42
Cut off the yarn, secure and hide.

Make a button loop on the back part from the top.

Sew the button on the front side of the bag.

Attach the yarn on the side of the bag and

work a bag handle.

Round 1: 2 ch, 2 DC, turn

Round 2: 2 ch, 2 DC, turn

Repeat the round to the desired length. I

have 28 rounds.

Cut off the yarn and secure.

Our bag is ready!

The set of clothes is ready!

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 CONGRATULATION!!! OUR DOLL IS READY, ENJOY THE RESULT DONE!!!

© For personal use only. The pattern or parts of it may not be: distributed or resold, translated
into any language, altered, reproduced, published or shared (free or for sale) online or printed.
2019.

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