Backyard Hobby Metal Casting

A Complete Starter Guide to Building a Cheap Foundry and Starting to Melt

and Cast Metals
By Pete Daniel
© Copyright 2021—All rights reserved.

It is not legal to reproduce, duplicate, or transmit any part of this document in either electronic means or in printed
format. Recording of this publication is strictly prohibited and any storage of this document is not allowed unless
with written permission from the publisher except for the use of brief quotations in a book review.

Table of Contents By Pete Daniel

Table of Contents
Introduction
Chapter One: Building on a Budget
Chapter Two: Foundry Tools and Supplies
Chapter Three: Foundry Safety
Chapter Four: Metals and How to Find Them
Chapter Five: Melting and Mold Making
Chapter Six: The Ten Types of Casting
Chapter Seven: What Can I Make with My Foundry? Chapter Eight: Tips for Successful Mold Preparation Chapter
Nine: Patternmaking for Home Foundry References

Introduction

Have you ever seen a splendidly beautiful or artistically created piece of metalwork and wished you could recreate
it without breaking the bank? It could have been a simple thing like a creative metal flower vase, or something as
complicated as an impressively designed dog kennel that took your breath away. Well, many people cannot even
imagine the possibility that they have the capacity to create such items, giving up before they even start. But the
truth is that anyone who pays enough attention can start their metal-casting hobby using affordable materials and
tools.

It initially seems like creating objects from metal should be something best left to full-time blacksmiths working
from a large factory workshop—at least that’s how I thought about it. But my view changed when I started my
metal-casting journey. I learned that with a small space in my backyard and few tools to start with, anyone can
create just about anything using waste metal. This realization changed my life, and I’m hoping to change yours as
well by sharing what I have learned in the more than ten years I have indulged in the hobby.

Why Is Metal Casting an Important Hobby?

From armor that protected soldiers across ancient civilizations to dazzling works of modern art, metalwork has
withstood the passage of time and provided us with beautiful and useful items throughout the ages. Evidence of
metal casting goes back to ancient civilizations for the creation of farming and agricultural machinery (Maisels,
2003, 118). Today, the hobby has grown to include creating functional DIY tools, outdoor furniture, and has
become essential in the creation of aesthetic additions to our homes and offices.

In commercial industries, metal-casting foundries are split into specific metal divisions such as cast iron and cast
aluminum. This allows factories to have specially tailored machines for those specific metals. Later, we will learn
why this is a necessary process when melting down metals.

Working with metal may seem like an intimidating or expensive hobby, but with the proper guidance, it is possible
to create amazing metal pieces on a dime. It is very disheartening, however, that very little material is available to
guide beginners through their metal-casting journey. Available materials tend to focus on individuals with enough
money to rent a metal-casting workshop and buy the latest tools and expensive metals for their hobby. Other
materials are written using inaccessible language—jargon and professional terminology, which can feel like
speaking nonsense.
This Book Is Ideal for You If:

● You are wondering how you can start and run a metal-casting hobby in your backyard.
● You have a lot of waste metal that you do not know what to do with. ● You are a mechanic or an electrician
looking to declutter your workshop. ● You want to start exploring metal casting as an income-generating hobby. ●
You are concerned about the environment and want to recycle pieces of waste metal.

My goal is to provide you with a comprehensive and actionable guide to start and run a successful metal-casting
hobby right in your own backyard. You will learn the different types of cost-efficient furnaces you can build and
how to build them, get practical guides on how to create various objects from waste metal and how to make a metal-
casting budget, as well as other valuable information. I will also introduce you to the materials you will require for
various projects as a beginner, how to evaluate their suitability and, more importantly, where to find them. Finally,
you will learn how to blend metal with other raw materials to come up with incredible objects. Let’s get to it, shall
we?

Chapter One: Building on a Budget

The traditional attitude toward metal casting is that it can be expensive. And, if I am to be totally honest with you,
casting metals requires time, patience, effort, materials, space, and money, among other things. Be that as it may,
you can easily adjust your schedule and budget to fit the requirements of your new hobby, plus you can later sell the
objects you create from your metal-casting hobby to partially or fully recover the investment you make on the
project.

The first concern on most people’s minds when beginning any new hobby is “How much is this going to cost?”
This is a perfectly reasonable question as some hobbies end up running well into thousands of dollars, sometimes
even more. This chapter focuses on how you can successfully start your metal-casting hobby on the smallest
possible budget.

Cutting down on the budget means that you avoid buying the required materials, and instead source them from your
environment or convert other ones to suit your needs. In essence, you can do the following to lower the initial cost
of starting a metal-casting hobby in your backyard:

1. Build your furnace using locally available materials. 2. Carefully select a foundry fuel.
Build Your Furnace Using Locally Available Materials

The idea of creating a hearth hot enough to melt metal sounds like an expensive affair. If you do a quick internet
search for a factory-created metal-casting furnace, you will be shocked at the price attached to this important piece
of equipment. But why spend so much money on something that you can create using materials available in your
own backyard?

You can build a metal-casting furnace using common scrap materials found around almost any garage or workshop.
These materials don’t often run for very much if anything at all. There are two major types of metal-casting
furnaces you can create by yourself: a drum furnace or a brick furnace. Before you can start building your metal-
casting furnace, however, it is paramount that you understand how a metal furnace works.

How Does a Metal-Casting Furnace Work?

Metal-casting furnaces are large ovens filled with sand or ceramic material that are used to melt solid metals into
thick liquid. This liquid form is easy to cast into various shapes that suit your needs. Furnaces are designed to melt
metal at high temperatures so that it can be cast into various shapes through molds. These molds are made of
refractory materials such as clay, graphite, or silicon carbide. All you need to do is pour the molten metal liquid into
the preset molds and then leave it to harden back into its solid form.

The metal-casting furnace provides the heat needed to complete the melting process while also acting as insulation
against outside air currents and reducing oxidation on the surface of the molten metal inside it. Casting makes it
possible for shaped metal objects to be reproduced cheaply and quickly. Casting furnaces are most commonly
heated using coal or natural gas, although some newer HVAC systems are now being created for electric heating.
Casting furnaces can also be heated with an uncooled flame produced by a torch.

You will also need a casting furnace if you are planning to mix two or more metals to form an alloy. Cast metals are
some of the most popular metal alloys in the world. Casting alloys are made by combining two or more metals to
create a desired property. The most common casting alloys are brass, bronze, and aluminum. Casting alloys have
many desirable properties including corrosion resistance, machinability, and strength. There are also high-
temperature alloys, such as steel, stainless steel, tool steel, and cast iron.

Cupola Furnaces

Cupola furnaces are a traditional type of metal-melting equipment. They are large and cylindrical furnaces that use
air blasts to heat the metal, which is cast in a crucible placed inside the furnace so that it melts. This furnace is used
for casting iron and steel products. Cupola furnaces are rarely used today since more advanced furnaces have been
invented (Reliance Roundry, n.d.).

Induction Furnaces

Induction furnaces are electric heating devices that require no fuel to operate. They work by utilizing gas to produce
electric currents, which are then transferred into the induction furnace. This type of furnace is necessary if you plan
on melting metal or casting it without a furnace, as this process doesn’t require any outside power source (Amelt,
2019).

Open Hearth Furnaces

The o pen hearth furnace is a large, rectangular-shaped structure that contains conveyors that move iron or steel
onto the bottom of the furnace. There are also evenly spaced brick pillars inside the fire chamber of the furnace.
These bricks are heated to about 1,000 degrees Celsius. This temperature melts the metal on the floor of the furnace.
The melted metal is called pig iron, which is an impure form of iron with a carbon content between 0.3 and 0.5
percent. A tuyere draws air through pipes to heat it. This hot air is then blown up through holes in each one of the
brick pillars, which heats them up to 1,500 degrees Celsius. This process causes the carbon to burn out of the pig
iron. The hot air also helps remove harmful impurities from the iron, such as silicon and sulfur (SentroTech, n.d.).

***

While these furnace examples may seem complicated, you can make one for yourself out of a metal drum and a lid,
or out of red clay bricks. These materials don’t often run for very much, if anything at all.

Building a Drum Furnace

A drum furnace is an easy-to-make furnace that can be used for casting metals. It is made by welding two steel
drums together in the shape of a cylinder. The open end of the drums should be facing down so that the metal can
be melted and poured out of the top. The furnace should be placed on a sturdy surface, such as concrete, when it is
being used. Below are a few drum furnaces and how to make them in your backyard:

Steel Bucket (Small Furnace):

A steel bucket is ideal if you only need a small furnace, as it helps save energy. Materials needed include:
● Steel bucket
● Smaller plastic trash can or bin
● Steel pipe
● Insulation (Perlite)
● Concrete mix
● Gravel
● Big bucket (a paint bucket will do)
● Smaller bucket
● Two iron handles
● Chisel
● Hammer
● Drill

First, drill a hole near the top of the bucket and make it large enough to fit a pipe, such as a steel pipe, through it.
Next, mix insulated concrete. It is important to make sure you mix in gravel (three times the amount of cement) and
some insulation, such as Perlite. This is very important because concrete does not hold heat well and is likely to
explode. Once you have these ingredients together, all you have to do is mix thoroughly and add water when you
are finished. Be cautious of how much water you are adding so that it does not fill up the bucket too much and
overflow through the pipe-sized drill holes.

In the center of the steel bucket, place a smaller trash can or bin and connect a pipe to the can, through the hole in
the outer steel bucket. It is best to have the inner can or bin be made of a flexible plastic, as it will need to be
removed later. The pipe should be put through at an angle to prevent any accidents in the event that the crucible
breaks. Then, all you have to do is tightly tape the pipe to the inner can, bin, or bucket.

Now is when you can begin filling the bottom of the steel bucket with the insulated concrete. Once you have filled
the walls with your mixed concrete, it is important that you allow at least forty-eight hours to completely dry the
concrete.

The next step is to create a lid for your furnace. This will require a larger bucket, two iron semicircular handles,
another small bucket or can, and concrete. Begin by placing the smaller bucket or can in the middle of the larger
bucket and filling the surrounding bottom of the larger bucket with concrete. All that’s left to do for this step is to
stick the iron handles into the concrete around the smaller bucket. Then leave to dry for at least forty-eight hours as
well.

Now that the furnace and lid have finished drying, you will need to use a chisel to remove the inner can and pipe
from the furnace. You will also need to retrieve the furnace lid from the bucket. Using the chisel, move it along the
edge of the can until it is free to pull out of the furnace. For the lid, it is easiest to flip the bucket over and hit the
bottom with a hammer until it is released. Take care not to hit it too hard to avoid breaking the lid before it’s free
from the bucket. In order to remove the pipe, it is best to strike it with a hammer inward and then attempt to twist
until it comes loose. Then, it should be possible to take it out.

Steel Garbage Can (Large Furnace):

Steel garbage cans are ideal for making drums because they have the right height and width, so it is easy to weld
them together. The only real preparation needed for this project is cleaning out the inside of the drums so that they
don’t contain any residue from yesterday’s dinner. Materials needed include:

● Safety gloves
● Safety glasses
● Protective clothes
● Dust mask
● Steel garbage can and lid
● Drill with a 1-inch hole saw attachment ● 2-inch ceramic fiber wool
● Exacto blade
● Rigidizer spray
● Furnace cement (optional)

To make a larger furnace, the steps are essentially the same, only with different materials. Here we will begin with a
larger steel garbage can that is at least eighteen inches high and sixteen inches in diameter. If it is a little taller, you
can always cut the trash can down. Be sure you always use safety gear such as gloves and safety glasses.
Next, you will need to mark a spot four inches from the bottom of the garbage can. You will need a one-inch-hole
saw attachment for the end of your drill. Be sure that it is secured at the end of the drill. You will use this to drill a
hole into the marking made four inches from the bottom of the can. This is to allow air to circulate the heat within
your furnace.

Our next step is to fill the inside of the can with ceramic fiber wool. This is a type of insulation that is good for a
homemade furnace due to the fact that it is resistant to heat and fire. The fiber wool needs to be two inches thick.
You will need to line the inside of the garbage can with this fiber wool. Next, you will need to cut out a hole in the
wool where your hole is in the garbage can. This can be done with an Exacto blade. Take care to wear protective
clothes, gloves, and a dust mask when handling this material as it can be a skin irritant and the particles are harmful
to your lungs if inhaled.

For the next step, you will need a Rigidizer spray. This spray is a chemical compound that causes particles in a
material to activate, allowing it to become solid and hold its shape. This is something that you can only buy online,
so keep in mind how long it will take to ship before starting this project. Be sure to spray the entire surface of the
ceramic wool with Rigidizer to assure that it is completely covered. Now the wool will need at least twenty-four
hours to dry before continuing on with building the furnace. This next step is not a necessity, but will help your
furnace last longer.

After it has been allowed to dry for twenty-four hours, you will need furnace cement to coat the top of the ceramic
wool. First, completely mix the furnace cement using a stirring stick. Take care to cover every bit of the surface of
the ceramic wool with the furnace cement to prevent any heat from escaping your furnace. Then, allow the furnace
cement to dry for at least twenty-four hours.

Next, we will focus on creating the lid. We will be using the lid of the garbage can for this. You will need to attach
a two-inch saw attachment to your drill. Be sure that it is on securely. The vent hole needs to be three to four inches
from one side of the lid’s handle. It is important that you create a vent hole for your furnace or else the furnace will
build up pressure inside and explode.

Once you have drilled the vent hole, the lid can now be filled with a two-inch-thick layer of ceramic wool. Be sure
that the wool is snuggly inside the lid and fills it in completely. Now, you will need to cut a hole in the ceramic
wool where you drilled the vent hole. Then, follow the same process we used for the furnace: apply the Rigidizer to
the wool and allow it to dry for at least twenty-four hours. You may use the furnace cement if you wish in order to
prolong the lifespan of your furnace and make everything smooth and even inside your furnace.

Now, we will focus on the pipe you will need to feed your fuel to the furnace. The pipe is fed through the side hole
drilled into the side of the garbage can. Be sure to insert at least an inch of the pipe so that it extends into the
furnace.

Building a Brick Furnace:

A brick furnace is a type of metal-casting furnace which is fueled by coke or natural gas. This type of furnace
usually has an electric arc similar to that of an induction furnace, but it can also have a gas burner. The larger the
furnace, the more expensive it becomes to operate. Brick furnaces are often used in foundries because they are
cheaper to operate. Brick furnaces are available in various sizes, with the most popular size being large enough to
melt steel ingots. Materials needed include:

● Bricks (at least twenty to thirty of them)

● Play sand
● 5-inch-long steel pipe with a ½-inch diameter inside (not made of copper or

aluminum)
● A metal or grill grating
● An elbow pipe that will fit your steel pipe
● A pipe end cap
● Some type of air source (an air mattress pump will do)
● Duct tape ● Drill
● Hacksaw ● Trowel

A brick furnace is definitely one of the cheaper options when looking to create a budget-friendly backyard furnace.
In this example, we will be building the furnace using a total of six bricks for each layer. The “lid” will be made out
of four bricks. It is up to you if you wish to make the furnace taller, depending on what type of work you plan on
doing.

The most important thing to consider when building a brick furnace is location. Be sure to pick a spot away from
anything flammable. Stay away from garages or small workshops. Dry grass is able to catch on fire when near a
brick furnace, so keep that in mind and always err on the side of caution when dealing with this type of furnace.

The first step is to begin laying down your bricks into a square shape. Take care to leave space between each brick
in order to fit your pipe through. You may line up your brick however you like, but it might be best to lay two
bricks on either side horizontally and one brick on either side vertically, connecting everything and creating a
rectangular shape. This uses less material and makes the structure more sound, which is something you may find
important—especially if you’re going to build your brick furnace higher than three layers. After you are done with
this step, you can continue to build up your structure until you are satisfied with the size.

The next step in creating your brick furnace is constructing your air system. This requires you to cut a piece of your
pipe that is the same height as your brick furnace. This pipe will deliver air directly into your furnace. Now, you are
going to attach the pipe elbow to a longer piece of your pipe. It is important to make sure that the pipe elbow is
firmly attached to the pipe. It is best to twist the pipe elbow onto the pipe even if the pipe isn’t perfectly threaded to
the elbow. This ensures that it is a tight fit. Next, you will need to drill a series of holes into your end cap. You may
drill as many holes as will fit or that you see fit. Once you are finished here, you are going to attach the end caps to
the shorter pipe. Attempt to get as snug of a fit as possible with the shorter pipe and your end cap.

Now we are going to begin putting everything together. First, you’re going to want to place the elbow end of the
long pipe through the gap left at the bottom of your brick furnace. Then, twist the shorter pipe into the other end of
the elbow. This is where your play sand comes in handy. Begin packing it around the pipe inside the brick furnace.
At this point, the pipe should be upright and close to the center of the brick structure. In order to improve your
structure, you may also pack the sand into the gaps between the bricks.

Next, we are going to be placing our metal grate or grill over the brick structure. You will need to lay some more
bricks down on top of the grate in order to hold it in place. It also acts as a protective barrier when keeping your
projects and fuel inside the furnace.

Once the grate is in place, it’s time to attach our air source to the other end of the pipe. Of course, it’s not a
backyard project until you use duct tape. Once your air source is in place, simply duct tape the pieces together,
making sure that there is nowhere for air to leak out.

Now the only thing left to do is fire it up. Begin by gathering a bundle of sticks or other fuel source. Place the sticks
at the top of your furnace and begin using your homemade brick furnace. You may also use charcoal or wood to
make the fire hotter.

One final note, it is important to keep in mind that the bricks located at the top of the furnace above the grate must
be replaced periodically due to their exposure to high temperatures. Once you have your crucible, which is the
metal container where you melt your metals, you can start using your new backyard furnace! Be sure to have a pair
of fire tongs handy when placing and removing the crucible from the middle of your furnace.

Drum vs. Brick Furnace

There are a few key differences between drum furnaces and brick furnaces. The first is that drum furnaces are
cheaper to operate because they use less fuel. Brick furnaces, on the other hand, are more expensive to operate but
can melt larger quantities of metal.

Brick furnaces also tend to be more reliable than drum furnaces. This is because drum furnaces with gas burners are
more likely to be damaged by the flame. Drum furnaces also use black coal, which is an impure form of coal that is
commonly used for producing coke or cooking food. Black coal contains sulphur, which can lead to lower melting
temperatures and less efficient production. Brick furnaces, on the other hand, use coke, which is made from pure
coal. Coke is a more efficient fuel because it doesn’t contain any sulphur, meaning that the furnace can reach a
higher temperature and produce more metal.

Foundry Fuel

The next decision that you will need to make is which fuel source to use for your backyard furnace. Keep in mind
that if you decide to go with a charcoal furnace, the highest temperature it can reach is about 1,200 degrees
Fahrenheit or 649 degrees Celsius. Propane as a furnace source, on the other hand, can reach heats up to 2,300
degrees Fahrenheit or 1,260 degrees Celsius. This means that having a propane furnace will allow you to melt
metals with a higher melting point while still being able to work with low-melting-point metals like gold and silver.

Propane Furnace

For a propane fuel source, you will need to place a burner inside the furnace. Then the valve will need to be put
through the pipe feeding out of the furnace. Be sure that the burner is not directly in the center of your furnace. Also
be sure not to use a regular steel pipe when operating with propane, as that will make it more difficult to control the
flames. Now, you can connect the propane using an air supply hose and attach it to the end of the burner. Once
that’s done, you may open the valves of the tank and burner. A striker may be used to light the middle of the
furnace. Cover the top with the lid to prevent any heat from escaping. From here, the heat level can be controlled
through use of the valves on the propane tank. Propane furnaces tend to get hotter, which is good if you plan on
working with higher-melting-point metals. You will also have more control over the heat because of the propane
valve.

Charcoal Furnace
For a charcoal fuel source, you will need a twelve-inch steel pipe with a one-inch interior diameter. If you decide to
use a charcoal fuel source, then you will have to fill the furnace floor with at least two to three inches of briquettes
and light them using a lighter. From here, you can turn on the air blower to the lowest setting to encourage the
heating process. Charcoal furnaces are the cheaper option if you are really looking into making a furnace on a
budget, but keep in mind that your furnace won’t get as hot as it would with a propane tank. This won’t be a
problem if you decide you only want to work with the metals that have a low melting point, of course.

Charcoal vs. Propane Furnace Fuels

Both charcoal and propane are fuels that can be used in metal-casting furnaces, but there are some key differences
between these two types of fuel:

● Charcoal is a cheaper fuel than propane, but it produces less heat. This means that it takes longer to melt metal in
a charcoal furnace (Greyser, 2018).
● Propane is more expensive than charcoal, but it produces more heat. This means that it takes less time to melt
metal in a propane furnace.
● Charcoal is a cleaner fuel than propane, meaning that it doesn’t produce as much smoke or fumes.
● Propane is a more efficient fuel than charcoal, meaning that it produces more heat for the same amount of fuel.
● Charcoal is not as volatile as propane, meaning that it is less likely to explode.
● Charcoal is a renewable fuel, whereas propane is not.
● Propane can be used in both stationary and portable furnaces, whereas charcoal can only be used in stationary
furnaces.

Chapter Two: Foundry Tools and Supplies

In this chapter, we are going to talk about the tools and supplies that will be necessary to begin using your metal-
melting furnace. It goes without saying that this hobby requires a lot of safety protocol and gear. It is important that
you are always protected with safety gloves and goggles. It is also advised that you wear protective clothes as well.
Some of the things that can help keep you safe when you are using your metal furnace are the tools that help you
handle your projects at their hottest. Below, I will list all of the tools required and describe them so that you are
fully prepared and knowledgeable about each aspect of using your metal furnace safely. Unfortunately, you will not
be able to find most of these foundry tools in your local hardware store. That does make acquiring them a little
trickier but not impossible. Since it is fairly expensive to obtain these tools by buying them commercially, it is
possible to use substitutes for these tools. It is important to make sure that they are long enough to keep you away
from anything dangerous like melted metal or a fire-hot furnace.

What to Consider When Buying Foundry Tools

Foundry tools are an essential part of the metal casting process. Foundries rely on a variety of different tools to
complete each step in this complicated and precise process. The type, quality, and number of foundry tools required
for any particular job will vary depending on the size and complexity of the project.

A good place to start when you’re ready to buy new foundry tools is by contacting your local Foundry Association
or Regional Foundry Supplier (RFS). They will be able to provide you with all the information you need for
selecting individual items as well as entire packages that include everything from basic hand tools to more
sophisticated computerized control systems. The following list includes some important factors that should be taken
into consideration when selecting foundry tools:

● Your Budget: Foundry tools can be expensive, so it’s important to set a realistic budget and then find the best
tools to fit within that budget (Crescent Foundry, 2021).

● The Type of Metal You Will Be Casting: Foundry tools are designed to work with specific types of metals.
Make sure the foundry tools you select are compatible with whatever metal you plan to work with.

● The Size of Your Projects: Foundry tools come in a wide variety of sizes, so find the ones that best fit your
specific project.
● Frequency of Use: Foundry tools that are used frequently need to be more durable than ones that are not used as
often.
● Level of Automation: Foundry tools can be either manually or automatically operated. If you’re looking for a
tool that is less labor intensive, then you should consider a tool that has some level of automation.
● Ease of Use: Foundry tools can be complicated and difficult to operate if you’re not familiar with them. Make
sure the tools you select are easy for you to use.
● Maintenance: Foundry tools require regular maintenance in order to keep them in working order. Find out what
the maintenance schedule is for the tools you select and make sure you are able to comply with it.

By keeping these factors in mind, you should be able to find the best foundry tools for your specific needs.
Basic Foundry Tools You Will Need

Foundries rely on a variety of different types of foundry equipment in order to produce products, from simple molds
all the way to more complex machinery. We cannot exhaust the long list foundry equipment and tools in one sitting.
There are many more foundry tools than I have mentioned below, but these are the basics:
Skimmer
A skimmer is a ladle-like tool used to remove dross. Dross is the unwanted material that will float to the top of the
crucible as the metal is melting. A skimmer essentially gives you the ability to scrape this stuff away during the
process of melting. A commercially bought skimmer will have holes in it, which are supposed to let the melted
metal filter through so that you’re only scraping up the dross, but most iron-casting enthusiasts have found that the
holes are essentially useless. The only thing you need for a good skimmer is a slightly bent lip, which makes it
easier to capture the dross. It is also important that the skimmer is circular enough to fit the diameter of the crucible
(Mibot, n.d).

Lift-Out Tongs

Lift-out tongs are important because they grip the crucible and allow you to remove it from your furnace. They are
especially important when dealing with a charcoal furnace, as the crucible tends to sink into the furnace after a
period of time. It is important that your lift-out tongs can wrap fully around the outer circumference of your
crucible. Keep in mind that your crucible will be heavy, especially with melted metal in it. So be sure that your lift-
out tongs are strong enough to lift and hold the crucible until you can set it down safely. The last thing you want is
for your lift-out tongs to give out on you while transporting the melting metal, as it could incur a serious injury.

General-Purpose Tongs

General-purpose tongs are used simply for grabbing things safely when dealing with your furnace while it is on.
They can mostly be used for placing new pieces of metal into the crucible while it is still hot, or for moving the
crucible slightly while it’s still in the furnace. Take care not to use the general purpose tongs to move the crucible
out of the furnace because providing the crucible with uneven pressure may cause the crucible to break.
Pouring Tongs

Pouring tongs are used to grab the crucible from the side and pour the molten metal into a casting mold. It is
important that your pouring tongs are tailored specifically to the outer circumference of your crucible. It is also
important that you are sure your pouring tongs are capable of holding the full weight of your crucible before you
begin using them to pour melted metal.
Stirring Rod

Your stirring rod is probably the easiest tool to acquire, as it is only required to mix the melted metal within the
crucible. My suggestion is to simply use a fireplace poker, as they are already made to withstand heat (PMC
Supplies, n.d.).

Shovels

Shovels are essential tools in any foundry workshop. There is no specific “foundry shovel”—your everyday sand or
gravel shovel will do. A shovel helps you to scoop and transfer various foundry materials. You will need to have
many different types of shovels on hand. For instance, you’ll need one for sand casting and one for pouring
concrete. You’ll also need some extra ones on hand in case of an emergency, such as a broken shovel.
Crucible
A crucible is a container that is used to heat the metal until it liquifies. It is typically made of graphite, clay, or
silicon carbide. The crucible is placed in the furnace and metal is melted inside of it. The crucible is important
because it ensures that the metal is heated evenly so that it does not solidify areas and create defects in the casting.
Mold

A mold is a container that molten metal is poured into to create the object that is being cast. The mold can be made
out of many materials, including sand, plaster, graphite, and ceramics. The most common type of mold used in
foundry work is a sand mold. A sand mold has the shape of the final object in negative. This means that there is a
space inside of it for the molten metal to flow into, creating an exact replica of the desired object.
Lifters/Cleaners

Lifters or cleaners are also known as finishing tools. They are useful foundry tools that are made using thin steel
sections of various sizes that bend at right angles on one end. They can help lift hot lids, or clean any sand particles
that might have fallen into the mold. The tool’s design enhances its functionality, especially since it can
comfortably reach the bottom and sides of openings in the mold.

Trowels

Trowels are essential foundry tools. They’re used for a variety of purposes, such as smoothing out the surface of the
casting bed, shaping and removing casting flasks, and stirring molten metal. There are a few different types of
trowels, each with their own strengths and weaknesses.
1. Flat Trowel
The flat trowel is perfect for general use. It has a straight blade and is best for spreading material evenly.
2.Square-Pointed Trowel

The square-pointed trowel is the most common type of trowel. It has a squared-off blade that is perfect for general
use. It’s ideal for spreading material evenly and can be used for a variety of applications, such as shaping and
removing casting flasks.
3. Round-Pointed Trowel
The round-pointed trowel has a rounded blade that is perfect for curved surfaces. This type of trowel is great for
smoothing out surfaces and shaping materials.
Mallet
A mallet is a tool that is used to strike metal. It is usually made from wood, with a head made from metal. Mallets
are useful for breaking metals up into smaller pieces, which allows for the easy collection of small pieces of metal.
The mallet is a simple but effective tool, and it can be used to break down large pieces of metal quickly and easily.
Propane Torch
A propane torch is a handheld device used to generate heat. It works by burning propane gas, which then produces
a flame. This flame is then used to heat up foundry supplies such as metal alloys, crucibles, and foundry molds.
Rammers

Rammers are tools used in foundry work to compact sand into molds. They can be made of wood or metal, and
usually have a concave shape to them. When a rammer pushes down over the sand in the mold, the sand compacts.
There are four basic rammer types found in a foundry:

1. Hand Rammers: These can be made of wood or metal and will have a concave shape to them. One end of this
small tool looks like a wedge, called the peen, while the other is a cylindrical compact metal, called the butt.

2. Peen Rammers: These are a metallic rod with a trilateral-shaped metal compact at one end. Peen rammers help
you to pack sand in pockets and corners.
3. Floor Rammers: These consist of a metal head that has a peen on one side and a flat portion on the other edge. It
has a metallic handle and is much bigger than the hand and peen rammers. It is used to compact sand on the floor of
a foundry.
4. Crank Rammers: Crank rammers are the largest rammer type. These can be made from wood or metal. They
have two parts connected by a pivot point so the rammer can be turned.

Casting Chill

A casting chill is used to cool parts of the mold extremely rapidly so that they solidify before the rest of the metal
has completely cooled. The most common type of chill used in foundry work is a sprue chill. A sprue chill is placed
around the gate with which the molten metal was poured into the mold. The sprue chill must be designed to allow
airtight casting. It is important that the casting tooling is high quality, durable, and can withstand extreme
temperatures without deforming or melting because it will be exposed to some pretty intense heat!

Casting Flasks
Casting flasks are containers used to hold a casting mold while casting metal. Casting flasks are made out of a
variety of materials, such as sand or ceramics.
Gaggers
Gaggers are long steel rods or wires, bent on either or both ends. These tools enable you to reinforce the molding
sand in the cope area of your molding boxes. Gaggers can be as short as two centimeters, or as long as half a meter.
They work best when their handles are coated with clay wash.

Casting Sprue

The casting sprue is the part of the mold that molten metal is poured into. It is usually a thin channel that runs from
the opening of the mold to the bottom. This allows the metal to flow into all parts of the mold evenly and create a
smooth surface. If there is no casting sprue, the metal will solidify in places and create defects in the casting.

Slicks

Casting metal is accomplished by packing finely powdered metal (called flux) and sometimes other material, such
as sand or ceramics (called granules), into a casting bed and then covering it with molten metal. This creates a
casting flask that fills the negative space created by the flux and granules. A slick is used to remove this casting
flask from the casting bed without causing damage to the casting. There are two major types of foundry slicks:

1. One-Handed Slick: This casting tool has a one-sided, flat blade.

2. Two-Handed Slicks: These casting tools have two equal flat blades that can be gripped in either hand.

Hand Riddles

Hand riddles are a type of tool used to separate small pieces of metal from larger pieces. They are usually made
from wood and consist of a series of metal screens, which are used to sort the metal. The screens are placed over a
bin, and the metal is shaken through the screens. This separates the small pieces of metal from the larger pieces, and
allows them to be collected in the bin.
Spray Guns
Spray guns help you to spray paint on various metal surfaces. These may or may not be necessary, depending on the
project you’re working on.
Clamps
Clamps are used for holding molding boxes together as you pour molten metal into them. Clamps are mostly made
of thick steel metal plates.
Supplies You Will Need
Here are some important supplies you will need to start your backyard foundry:

● Heat-Resistant Safety Gear: The most important gear you are going to need in order to begin metal casting with
your furnace is heat-resistant safety gear. This means having items such as welding gloves, aprons, sleeves, face
shields, and protective eye glasses. You may also want to include a respirator. While not always required, it does
help to have it handy in the event that you do need it.

● Silica Sand: Foundries often use silica sand as foundry sand. It is composed primarily of silicon dioxide and can
be found in many places, such as deserts and some beaches. Silica sand has a fine particle size and close packing
properties, which makes it ideal for foundry work. The type of silica sand found at most home improvement stores
like Home Depot is not suitable for foundries because they are too coarse and—if not washed—contain significant
amounts of organic material.

● The Crucible: One of the most important tools that you are going to need in order to start working on projects is
obviously the crucible. The crucible is a metal container, smaller than your furnace, that is placed in the middle of
your furnace in order to melt metals. This tool is a very crucial part to the process of metal casting. It must
withstand the heat of the furnace and also have the ability to be picked up, carried, and tipped over in order to pour
melted metal into casting molds.

● Refractory Material: A refractory material is any substance that retains its strength at high temperatures.
Firebrick is the most common type of refractory material found in foundries, as it has low thermal conductivity and
high strength. Firebrick is made from natural clay and fired in a kiln to produce bricks with different physical
characteristics, such as softening temperature and porosity (holes found throughout the brick).

● Thermometer: Having a heat resistant thermometer handy is important because it allows you to check the
temperature of various things during the melting and casting process to assure that they are at the proper
temperature and will be able to melt properly.

● Borax: This is a natural mineral found in the western United States. It has a low melting point and is found as a
white powder or crystal, making it useful for foundry work.

● Ladle Oil: Ladle oil is used to lubricate foundry machinery to prevent parts from rusting when not in use.

● Heat-Resistant Surfaces: It goes without saying that you will require heat-resistant surfaces in order to handle
metal casting. Be careful not to operate your furnace anywhere near dried patches of grass, oils, or anything that is
liable to catch fire. The best heat-resistant surfaces are going to be granite, soapstone, and other natural stones.
● Flux: Flux is used to oxidize and season a crucible. This process is important to keep the metals liquified and
therefore resulting in a better product. This is done by creating a glassy shield between the crucible and the metal.
In order to accomplish this you can use the common household product Borax, mentioned above. In essence, ladle
fluxes are used to clean molds before pouring foundry metal into them. They come in a wide variety of chemical
compositions for different foundry needs, such as sand casting, metal casting, and lost wax.

● Metal Molding Sand: Metal molding sand is a fine brownish-red clay that was first discovered in the small
village of Sand Casting, England. The clay can be obtained from various locations and is a part of many casting
processes. Metal molding sand is mainly composed of four different minerals. These are gibbsite, boehmite,
hematite, and goethite. These mineral compounds absorb a lot of heat from the molten metal as it is being poured in
the mold. This creates a very strong interface between the molten metal and the mold, reducing the chances of a
crack in the casting.

Chapter Three: Foundry Safety

In this chapter, we will fully dive into the safety protocols that are necessary when dealing with a metal furnace as
well as the casting process. I’m sure you’ve heard that fire is an element that should always be respected. Keep in
mind that copper, a low-melting-point metal, melts at 1,984 degrees Fahrenheit. Even a lower-melting-point metal
will still be incredibly hot, and safety protocols need to be followed in order to avoid injury. While foundries can be
amazing tools for creation, if they are used incorrectly, things can get out of hand and become very dangerous.
Always exercise caution when handling anything hot. Even if something does not look hot, and even with insulation
precautions taken, it may still pose a burn or injury risk. Keep this in mind and always make sure you are protected
with the proper safety gear and operate with utmost caution.

Now that you have your furnace built, I’m sure you are just chomping at the bit to begin using it. But we must go
over safety procedures in order to protect you and your home or workshop. Having a backyard foundry is a very
different ball game from the requirements of a commercial foundry. There is no governmental department to
enforce safety regulations, and there’s no boss to enforce safety guidelines on you. However, this does not mean
that enforcing safety guidelines for yourself is not incredibly important. The safety protocols are put in place to help
prevent things such as a steam explosion, a broken crucible, or other possible safety hazards. It is worth investing
some your foundry budget into proper protective clothing such as leather boots with steel toes, a full face shield,
leather welding caps, a leather jacket, and especially insulated leather gloves. (TheMetalCasting.com, n.d.).
Next, we will talk about how to make sure that your workspace is safe for your metal-casting hobby. Although most
of the metals that you will be casting with are reasonably safe, it is important to make sure that your workspace or
workshop is properly ventilated to avoid you breathing in the fumes from the furnace. If you are melting down
scrap metals, keep in mind that you may be exposed to arsenic, cadmium, lead, or other harmful fumes. It is
important that you keep a fire extinguisher handy in the event that something ignites. It is also helpful to have a
bucket of dry sand. If you have opted for a propane furnace, be sure to check the propane fitting for leaks before
each and every use to prevent any accidents. It also goes without saying to never leave the furnace unattended while
it is in operation. Another very important thing to keep in mind is that any moisture must remain far away from
your furnace and work station. Due to the extreme heat from your foundry, any contact with any type of moisture
will cause liquid to turn into steam and could cause an explosion. A good way to protect against this is to have an
emergency run-out pit to protect yourself from any excess spills. Also, be sure to never approach your furnace
without your safety gear.

As for your workspace, it is important to make sure that your work area is completely clear of slipping or tripping
hazards. It is also important to make sure that once you have picked up your crucible with the melted metal in it that
you have a clear path and you do not have to walk backward to get to your casting mold.

Foundry Safety Regulations

Foundry safety regulations are designed to protect the health and safety of foundry workers. Foundries, often called
steelworks, produce castings from molten metal by pouring it into molds or onto a casting surface. Molten metals
are dangerous because they have high heat energy, which can cause serious burns if they come in contact with
human skin, and because they react violently with water.

Therefore, in order to minimize hazards at foundries, an extensive set of regulations has been developed over the
years through consultation between government agencies and industry groups representing employers and
employees alike. These regulations cover everything from personal protective equipment for workers to operating
procedures for machinery used during production processes. A few examples will illustrate the range of topics
covered by these rules:

● A provision requiring the use of face shields for workers handling molten metal; ● Specifications for the type of
fire extinguishers that must be on hand in a foundry; ● Procedures for cleaning up spills of molten metal.

Foundry safety regulations are updated from time to time as new hazards are identified. For example, when it was
found that silica dust generated during the welding process is hazardous to workers, new regulations were
developed to protect workers from harm. These safety regulations vary from state to state, so it is important that you
acquaint yourself with the requirements set by your state or country.

Common Foundry Health & Environmental Hazards

The foundry industry has many health and environmental hazards. You should know about these before starting
work in the foundry industry.

● Foundry Safety: This is a set of practices used to ensure that people are not injured or killed by dangerous
conditions at work, including fires, explosions, falling into vats of molten metal, exposure to hazardous substances
such as asbestos or lead paint chips, and electrocution from contact with live wires or energized machinery parts.

● Foundry Health Hazards: The main dangers arise from inhaling fumes consisting mostly of oxides of carbon
(soot), sulphur dioxide (acid gas), and other toxic gases produced during the melting and casting of metals. These
fumes can cause a number of health problems, including metal fume fever, bronchitis, pneumoconiosis (a form of
lung disease caused by inhaling dust), and cancer.

● Foundry Risks: Other risks include slips, trips, and falls; being struck by objects such as tools or molten metal;
and contact with electric currents, heat, or sparks.
Safety Equipment and Clothing

Foundries are industrial operations with the potential to release hazardous substances into the environment as a
result of their processes or from accidents that may happen on-site. The hazards faced by those working at foundries
include physical dangers such as noise levels, which can cause hearing loss; breathing difficulties due to fumes;
burns caused by molten metal or chemicals; as well as falls and other accidents. As you begin your metal casting
journey, here are few examples of safety equipment and clothing you can use while in the foundry to protect
yourself from the aforementioned risks.
Personal Protection Equipment (PPE)

One of the most important pieces of safety equipment is personal protective equipment, or PPE. This includes items
such as safety glasses, hard hats, earplugs, gloves, aprons, and boots. Depending on the type of work being done,
different PPE may be necessary. For example, someone working with molten metal would need to wear a flame-
resistant jacket and pants in addition to the other items listed above. Here is a closer look at various PPE items:

● Leather steel-toed work boots: One thing any worker at a foundry should always have is proper work boots.
The best work boots are made from a combination of synthetic materials, such as canvas and leather, to provide the
flexibility needed in many different foundry jobs. Composite toe caps or steel-toed boots offer added protection
from falling objects or molten metal. Shellacked insoles help wick away moisture inside the work boot, while
exterior rubber outsoles can help grip slippery surfaces.

● Safety hats: Safety hats are designed to provide protection against any type of debris or hazardous substance that
might come into contact with your head while you work. These hats are typically made from high-quality materials
so they can withstand liquid, sharp objects, and more without fear of damage. When choosing one for your at-home
foundry, it is important to find one that fits well so you don't have to worry about it falling off or being too tight. In
order to have a good idea of what size you need, measure your head circumference before buying.
● Safety glasses: Safety glasses are an important part of PPE that should be worn when working at a foundry.
These glasses protect workers from potential eye injuries and other problems that could result from flying objects,
hot metal, or other hazards found in this type of workplace. The best type of safety glasses for work at a foundry
should have side protection to protect the eyes from side impacts. In addition, they should meet current ANSI Z87+
standards so they can provide adequate protection against various hazards found in the foundry environment.

● Full face shield: A full face shield is one of many types of safety equipment that are necessary for any job at a
foundry. These shields are typically made from high-quality materials so they can withstand contact with molten
metal or other hazardous substances, while also providing protection against airborne particles and anything else
that might be thrown your way when working at this type of site.
● Respirator masks: The next thing workers should have is an approved respirator mask that has been tested for fit
by a professional. These masks may also be air-purifying respirators that protect against inhaling chemical fumes,
dusts, and other hazardous substances when doing their job at a foundry.

● Overalls: Another important piece of protective clothing is a set of overalls. These are much more effective than
normal clothing when it comes to protecting a foundry worker because they are made from thicker fabrics, such as
denim or canvas.

● Fireproof apron: A fireproof apron is designed to protect you from potential burns and other hazards while also
providing comfort and freedom of movement. At a foundry, these aprons keep you safe from molten metal or
anything else that might come into contact with your clothing during work. One of the main benefits of wearing a
fireproof apron is that it prevents any type of liquid from getting inside the fabric, making it more difficult to
accidentally get burned.
● Gloves: At a foundry, gloves can protect against burns and molten metal that might splash onto workers’ hands.
The best gloves for foundry work are made from leather or high-quality synthetic materials, but some types of
disposable plastic gloves may be appropriate in certain situations where there is minimal risk of molten metal
contact. You can choose to either wear welder’s gloves or leather gloves with long, arm-length gauntlets for your
work in the foundry.
● Hearing protective equipment: In addition to the many other types of safety equipment that you will need to
wear in your backyard foundry, you will also need hearing protection. In fact, it is recommended that you wear
hearing protection not only to reduce the risk of hearing loss later in life but also to protect yourself from the noise
levels you experience on a daily basis. Some general recommendations for selecting a hearing protection system
include doing your research to find an inexpensive solution, choosing one with good acoustics, and keeping
durability in mind. Whatever your budget may be, there are many different options available for you to choose
from, depending on your specific needs.
● Hand-protective creams: These creams provide a protective barrier between your hands and any substances they
might come into contact with while doing work. This includes things like chemicals and solvents that could
potentially cause skin irritation or burns over time (which can be really bad, considering how much we use our
hands on the job). Some of these creams also offer a cushioning effect that’s especially valuable if you work with
heavy machinery. Generally speaking, it doesn’t require too much consideration to figure out which type of cream
to use; just make sure the one you select has some SPF to protect from UV rays and that it is water resistant.
● Gas Detectors: Gas detectors are a must-have for any foundry. They can help to identify possible leaks that could
create dangerous conditions, and they provide you with some peace of mind—one less thing to worry about going
wrong in the foundry. When it comes to choosing this type of PPE, it is important to make sure you’re working with
a reliable company that offers quality products because these devices need to be easy to use and made to last for
years before needing replacement. It’s also important to know what kind of gases they detect so you know whether
or not they will work best in your particular foundry.

● Radioactive detection systems for scrap: The scrap metal you use in your foundry can pose a great hazard,
especially if it has radioactive elements that you are not aware of. Therefore, it goes without saying that you should
handle scrap metal with a lot of care to avoid hazards and accidents that radioactive substances can cause. A
radioactive detection system for scrap will alert you to the presence of any radioactive material, as well as show
how much of it is present in your materials.
● Environmental control equipment: Environmental control equipment is another important piece to your
foundry safety puzzle. This equipment can help provide a safe environment for you, providing you with clean air to
breathe and preventing any dangerous substances from being released into your backyard. This type of equipment
typically does its job by filtering out any harmful substances that may be present in the air around you so you don’t
have to worry about them. For example, it can remove carbon monoxide and other chemicals or contaminants that
could cause problems for your health over time if inhaled too much.
● Water pollution control equipment: Chemicals used in the foundry can contaminate the water supply if not
properly controlled. In order to reduce this risk, there are many different types of chemical waste treatment systems
available for purchase—from chemical absorbents to tanks that allow you to recycle spent chemicals. In addition, it
is important to maintain your system so that it does not become damaged or ineffective over time. If your system
breaks or clogs up with chemicals, you will need to take steps to get it running again to avoid the possibility of
contamination.

● Pollution control equipment: When it comes to reducing pollution on a larger scale, there are many different
types of equipment available for use. One option is the scrubber system, which is typically used in power plants to
remove sulfur from the air stream before it reaches the chimney. In addition, these systems can also be utilized
outdoors or by industries that may be releasing greenhouse gases. Another option to reduce pollution is a baghouse,
which is used to collect particulate matter and other dangerous substances released into the air. These can come in
both wet and dry configurations depending on their use.

● Fire protection equipment: Home foundry equipment and supplies are designed to be safe for use in the home,
especially when casting metal objects or pouring hot liquid metals into molds. Home foundry fire protection
equipment includes: a gas regulator, which will automatically shut off if there is a leak, and an emergency shutdown
button that can cut power to the furnace and stop the fuel flow.
Foundry Dos and Don’ts
The more that you know about how to work with a foundry and its attendant risks, the safer you will be as you grow
your metal-casting hobby. In this subsection, we’ll cover some of the most important dos and don’ts for working in
a foundry.

Foundry Dos:

● Make sure your clothes are not too loose or too tight—loose clothing can catch fire easily, while tight clothing
may constrict breathing ability if it becomes contaminated by dust particles or molten metal droplets.

● Keep your hair away from your face to avoid contact with any airborne contaminants like sparks or overspill from
molten metals. If you have long hair, tie it back securely using an elastic tie.

● Wear protective gloves, eyewear, and shoes at all times to avoid contact with molten metals or heat sources. It’s
also important to cover any exposed skin that could come in contact with the foundry equipment—this is why
wearing proper clothing is so important!

● Think about what you’re doing before you act. Making sure that you’re thinking clearly and not impulsively is
very important when it comes to safety! Don’t get distracted by your thoughts or sudden urges.

● Make sure to take frequent breaks, and take some time after each shift (whether it’s a couple of hours or a few
days) to cool down and rest.

● Make sure you’re hydrated! Foundry work is hard work, so drink lots of water to avoid overexertion or strain on
your body.
● Always be aware of your surroundings—if something seems off or out of place, pause and reassess before
proceeding. It pays to be cautious!

Foundry Don’ts:

● Don’t wear any clothing made of flammable materials. This includes things like synthetic fabrics, plastics, and
leather.
● Don’t smoke or use open flames in the vicinity of a foundry.
● Never put anything metal into a foundry! The casting process may require an initial input of molten metals, but
any other foreign matter could contaminate the final product or cause safety hazards.
● Don’t wear loose clothing that might catch fire or tight clothing that might restrict breathing if it gets
contaminated by dust particles or molten metal droplets.
● Don’t wear jewelry in a foundry, because it could come loose and snag on something dangerous! If you have
piercings, make sure to take them out so they don’t get caught on anything . . . and, of course, be aware of your
surroundings at all times!
● Don’t eat, drink, or smoke around molten metal. Keep a safe distance from whatever is pouring or casting the
metals—five feet or more should be sufficient to avoid any accidental splashes or spills.
● Try not to work in a foundry if you’re pregnant! The heat and fumes can be harmful, both to you and a fetus.
● Don’t enter a foundry if you’re feeling sick, especially if you have a cold or the flu. You don’t want to expose
yourself to any additional health risks.

Further Foundry Safety Tips

1. Avoiding mixing moisture and molten metal as this could result in a steam explosion. Avoid pouring water on
metal, a fire, or even on wet ground. Remember, even traces of moisture can cause an explosion. It is the number-
one cause of death in foundries.

2. It is vital to have a dry pile of sand ready to put out any fires and to control metal spills. Molten metal on
concrete could also result in an explosion, so make sure the area is filled with sand to protect your floors. In fact, it
would be best to have a sand bed that is at least three inches thick for your entire foundry space.

3. Make sure the metal you are using as feedstock is clean. This is because when some lubricants and paints are
heated at high temperatures, they can be very toxic (UAH, n.d.).

4. Ventilation is critical. This guards you from dust, fumes, combusted toxins, and any chemicals that might be
present in the air. Even if the area is well ventilated, use a good NIOSH-rated dust mask to guard yourself from
chemicals and dust that could cause cancer.
5. Wear safety glasses to protect yourself from injury caused by sparks or airborne debris.
6.Avoid damaged crucibles. You risk injury if the crucible crumbles as you carry it.

Working in a foundry can be dangerous business, but with a little caution and common sense, it can also be
rewarding and safe. Make sure that you’re always thinking clearly, doing your best to keep yourself out of harm’s
way, and paying mind to the dos and don’ts listed above—and most importantly, stay safe!

Chapter Four: Metals and How to Find Them

I was lucky enough to have learned how to metal cast while surrounded by all kinds of scrap metal. Not everyone is
lucky to have such an easy start. But I can assure you, finding the metals you want to use is not difficult or
expensive. You just have to know where to look. In this chapter we will talk about the metals involved in this
hobby. We will look at metals and their melting points so that you can be prepared with the knowledge of what
metals you can and can’t melt with your backyard furnace. We will also touch on what types of metals you should
look for, as well as ones that can’t use in a backyard foundry.

There are many different types of metals that are used for metal casting. First off, there are pure metals and scrap
metals. Pure metals have not been used or altered for any other purpose. They are sometimes referred to as virgin
metals for this reason. The more cost-effective and popular route for backyard foundries, however, is to use scrap
metals. Scrap metals are simply materials that have been used before for various other projects, such as forging or
machining, but that does not mean they are not just as valuable or useful for your backyard furnace.

Popular Metals for Metal Casting (and Their Melting Points)

Metal-casting metal is available in many different types, shapes, and sizes, perfect for your metal-casting needs.
Before you learn where to find the metals for your backyard workshop, it would help if you understood various
metals and their behavior:

1. Metal Casting with Bronze

Bronze is an alloy of copper and tin that has been around since prehistoric times. It was considered the best way to
create metal sculptures and statues before the invention of other processes, like sand casting, die-casting, and
investment casting. Bronze metal casting is often used for statues, memorials, bells, and other decorative objects.
The properties of bronze make it a good choice for metal casting because it is strong, resists corrosion, and allows
for more control over your work than most other metals. Bronze is also often used for metal casting because it can
produce parts that are smooth and free of imperfections. Bronze can be cast by the lost-wax technique or sand
casting. Bronze has a melting point of 1,675 degrees Fahrenheit (913 degrees Celsius).

2. Metal Casting with Brass

Brass is an alloy of copper and zinc that has also been used since ancient times. Brass metal casting has many of the
same properties as bronze, but brass is less expensive and easier to cast. It is also stronger, less corrosive, and has a
higher melting point (1,710 degrees Fahrenheit, 930 degrees Celsius). Metal casting with brass is a great way to
make jewelry, tools, or other objects in small batches.

Metal casting with brass has many advantages over other metals because it has a low setup cost, minimal waste, and
increases efficiency when making products in smaller quantities. Brass also produces parts that are smooth and free
of defects, making it a popular choice for at-home metal casting. Metal casting with brass is often done using
incredibly strong and resilient sand. Brass’ corrosion resistance ability also makes it a great choice for household
construction projects.

3. Metal Casting with Copper

This orange-colored metal can often be found in the natural world, and it is one of the oldest metals the human race
has ever worked with. Copper is soft and malleable, which allows for relatively higher control when casting. It is
also one of the greatest conductors of electricity, making it suitable for electrical appliances. Copper’s non-
corrosive nature also makes it a great choice for plumbing equipment, saucepans, and radiators. You can mix
copper with other metal components to produce alloys. Alloys formed from copper include bronze, brass, and
cupronickel. Additionally, copper is relatively strong (compared to other metals like aluminum) and ideal for
projects that require tensile strength. Copper is, however, fairly expensive, which can be disadvantageous if you are
working on a small budget. Copper’s melting point is 1,983 degrees Fahrenheit (1,084 degrees Celsius).
4. Metal Casting with Gold

Gold is a popular choice for casting because it is both a valuable and durable material. The process of gold casting
can be done in a few different ways. One way is to use a crucible furnace. In this type of furnace, the gold is melted
and poured into a mold. Another way to cast gold is with a centrifugal caster. In this type of caster, the gold is
melted and then spun at high speeds until it is thin enough to flow into a mold. Gold casting can be used to create a
variety of different objects. It is most often used to make jewelry, but it can also be used to create sculptures and
other art pieces. Gold’s melting point is 1,945 degrees Fahrenheit (1,063 degrees Celsius).

5. Metal Casting with Cast Iron

Cast iron is made by melting pig iron and adding carbon—essentially any iron-carbon alloy with more than 2
percent carbon content should do. The combination of iron’s high carbon content and silicon enhances its
castability. Types of cast iron metals include:

● Gray iron
● White iron
● Malleable iron
● Ductile iron
● Compacted graphite iron

Cast iron is typically used to make thick objects like tools, machine parts, and engine parts. Cast iron is not good for
making thin objects, as the metal is stronger than it is flexible. Metal casting with cast iron can be done in two
ways: sand casting and die-casting. In sand casting, a mold is made from sand. The molten metal is then poured
into the mold and allowed to cool. After the metal has cooled, the mold can be destroyed and the object can be
removed. The die-casting process is similar to sand casting, but it uses a more sturdy material than sand, which
allows for thinner molds. The molten metal is poured into the mold and allowed to cool before the mold is
destroyed and the object can then be removed.

Cast iron is a good choice for making objects that need to be both strong and durable. Such objects include cylinder
heads, gear blanks, and houses. It can also be melted down and reused, making it a more environmentally friendly
option than some other metals. Cast iron is easy to handle and you will enjoy working with it as a beginner metal
caster. Cast iron’s melting point is 2,200 degrees Fahrenheit (1,204 degrees Celsius).

6. Metal Casting with Nickel

Nickel is a strong metal with a high melting point, which means it is not easy to melt. Nickel is a very strong metal,
making it ideal for projects that require high pressure. Additionally, nickel’s high corrosion and oxidation resistance
makes it ideal for objects or appliances that will need to work in harsh environments. Nickel can be alloyed easily
with other metals like cobalt or chromium and can be melted using direct or indirect methods. Nickel’s melting
point is 2,647 degrees Fahrenheit (1,453 degrees Celsius).

7. Metal Casting with Platinum

A lot of people think that platinum is too expensive for jewelry because its price has increased so much over the
years. That may be true for individually cast pieces, but mass-produced items are indeed selling for lower prices
these days. It’s still not cheap enough to compete with costume jewelry made from cheaper materials like plastic,
aluminum, or zinc, however.

The pros of platinum are perfect for casting metals, though. It melts at a low temperature, so it doesn’t damage the
burners in most at-home foundries or kilns. This is important when you have to keep an eye on your metal not just
during the melting process but also after all of the ingredients have been added to the mixture. Platinum is also
highly resistant to the carbonization process that happens when metal is burned, so it is especially great for lost-wax
casting. Lost-wax casting is a casting method where you make a model of your design out of wax before applying
alloys to give it more strength and durability. It’s not easy for most metals, especially cheaper ones, to hold on to
details when they’re being burned out. Platinum’s resistance to carbonization means that your design will come out
looking just like it did in the wax model. In short, platinum is a great metal for casting because it’s easy to melt and
doesn’t produce harmful fumes or by-products. It also holds on to detail well, so your designs will come out exactly
as you intend them to. Platinum’s melting point is 3,218 degrees Fahrenheit (1,770 degrees Celsius).

8.Metal Casting with Carbon Steel

Carbon steel is composed of iron alloyed with carbon. Sometimes it will also have other elements—like silicon,
manganese, or chromium—mixed in for additional properties (e.g., high-speed steel). Carbon steel is both tough
and strong, its cost is relatively low, it can be welded, and—if tempered—it can still be hardened. Carbon steel is
the most common choice for metal casting because it can be easily melted and shaped. The main downside to
carbon steel is that it rusts if not properly cared for.

When choosing a steel alloy for casting, it is important to consider the temperature at which the alloy will melt.
Low-carbon steels typically have a melting point below 1,500 degrees Fahrenheit, while high-carbon steels have a
melting point above 1,600 degrees Fahrenheit. The higher the carbon content in a steel alloy, the harder and
stronger it will be, but also the less ductile it will be (meaning it will be more brittle). Carbon steel’s melting point
can be anywhere between 2,597 and 2,800 degrees Fahrenheit (between 1,425 and 1,540 degrees Celsius).

9. Metal Casting with Stainless Steel

Metal casting with stainless steel has many benefits, including the ability to be molded into more complex shapes
than other metals. This steel’s stainless properties provides for ease in finishing and polishing before being put to
use. Stainless steel is also a great material for metal casting because of its corrosion resistance and strength. When it
is heated and poured into a mold, the stainless steel will cool and harden quickly, resulting in a strong finished
product. In addition, stainless steel does not require a lot of finishing work, so it can be used as is, or polished to a
high sheen. There are two major types of stainless steel: cast stainless steel and wrought stainless steel. Stainless
steel, like other forms of steel, also has great weldability and heat tolerance. Stainless steel’s melting point is
between 2,500 and 2,785 degrees Fahrenheit (1,375 and 1,530 degrees Celsius).

10.Metal Casting with Tungsten

Tungsten is used in metal casting for several reasons. First, tungsten has the fourth-highest melting point of any
element at 6,127 degrees Fahrenheit (3,327 degrees Celsius; Metal Supermarkets, 2020). That’s right around the
temperature most metals need to melt at. Second, tungsten has the highest tensile strength of any metal aside from
titanium and niobium. That means it’s very difficult to deform tungsten when forming the casting, which increases
your ability to make thin walls (which are common in complex castings) because thin walls require less strength.
Tungsten also has other alloying capabilities through the addition of different elements like carbon and oxygen.
These can enhance the properties of the metal. Lastly, tungsten is both abundant and relatively cheap.

11.Metal Casting with Zinc

The unique properties that zinc has are not found in many other metals used for casting work. It is inexpensive and
environmentally friendly because it does not corrode easily or pollute the natural environment. It is also strong and
easy to drill. The end-product created from zinc casting work has a high gloss finish, which makes it aesthetically
pleasing. The history of zinc metal casting dates back to the fifteenth century, during the time of Leonardo da Vinci.
Da Vinci designed machines for bronze casting. Since then, the process of metal casting has evolved and improved,
but zinc continues to be a popular metal for casting because of its unique qualities. There are many different
applications that zinc casting can be used for, including automotive parts, hardware, tools, medical equipment, and
jewelry. The benefits of using zinc in these applications is that it is strong, durable, and resistant to corrosion. Zinc
casting is a reliable and efficient process for producing high-quality products.

12. Metal Casting with Aluminum

Aluminum is a lightweight metal, which makes it easy to work with and reduces the amount of force that is needed
to pour it into a mold. It also has a relatively low melting point, so it can be easily melted down and poured into a
mold. In addition, aluminum is nontoxic and does not corrode, which makes it safe to use in products that will come
in contact with food or other sensitive materials. The ease with which aluminum can be melted and worked makes it
a good metal for metal casting. For this reason, it is often used as the basis of die-cast models, also known as
castings. Aluminum can be cast by the lost-wax technique or via sand casting. Aluminum has a melting point of
1,221 degrees Fahrenheit (661 degrees Celsius).

Popular Casting Metals and Their Melting Points

Number Casting Metal Melting Point °F Melting Point °C
Aluminum
1 1,220 660
Aluminum Bronze 1,190–1,250 600 2
Brass 1,710–1,832 930–1,000 3
Copper 1,983 1,084 4
Gold 1,945 1,063 5
Cast Iron 2,060–2200 1,127–1,204 6
Nickel 2,647 1,453 7
Platinum 3,220 1,770 8
Silver 1,761 961 9
Carbon Steel 2,500–2,800 1,371–1,540 10
Stainless Steel 2,750 1,510 11
Titanium 3,040 1,670 12
Tungsten 6,150 3,400 13
Factors to Consider When Choosing Casting Metals

There are a few factors to consider when choosing casting metals for foundry work. Metal prices, melting point, and
hardness all play a role in which type of metal you should choose for your project.

1. Metal Casting: When casting metals, you need to choose a metal that is capable of being melted down and
poured into a mold. The most common metals used for casting are aluminum, brass, bronze, copper, and steel. Each
of these metals has its own benefits and drawbacks.

2. Casting Metals: The type of metal you choose to cast is just as important as which metal you choose. Metal
casting uses either ferrous or nonferrous metals, also known as iron alloys and non-iron alloys, respectively.
Ferrous metals have a high percentage of iron in them, whereas nonferrous metals have a very low percentage of
iron in them.

3. Metal Prices: You will need to consider the cost of each metal before choosing one for your project. Metal
prices are influenced by many different factors, including weight, chemical composition, and purity. The more
concentrated a metal is, the higher its price will be. Metal prices will depend heavily on market value as well.

4. Melting Point: All metals melt at different temperatures depending on their chemical composition. Metal casting
is typically done with a melting point between 1,292 and 5,432 degrees Fahrenheit (equivalent to between 700 and
3,000 degrees Celsius). A metal’s melting point can be lowered by alloying it with other metals, such as adding tin
to the mix to create pewter.

5. Hardness: A metal’s hardness is how resistant it is to being scratched or dented. Hardness is measured on the
Mohs scale, which ranges from one (talc) to ten (diamond). The higher the number on the Mohs scale, the harder
the metal is. A metal’s hardness can also be affected by its chemical composition and purity. For example, a metal
that is more concentrated will be harder than a metal that is less concentrated.

***

When choosing a metal for casting, you need to consider all of these factors in order to make the best decision for
your project. Metal prices, melting points, and hardness vary greatly between different types of metals, so it’s
important that you do your research before making any purchases. By understanding the factors that influence metal
prices, you can make an informed decision about which metal to buy for a given project.

How and Where Do I Get Casting Metals?

Just about any kind of metal can be recycled, so it’s important to take a look around your garage or yard to see if
you have anything that is made of steel, copper, aluminum, or another useful metal. The best way to find scrap
metal is to drive around neighborhoods looking for old appliances, cars, or anything else that is made of metal. You
can also ask local businesses if they have any metal-casting scrap that they would be willing to sell you on the
cheap.

● Junk Vehicles: Junk vehicles are often a major source of scrap metal, and you know what the good news is? Junk
vehicles and junk vehicle parts are all over the place—from right inside your garage to even your friends’ homes
and workplaces. It will be helpful if you put the word out that you plan to start a metal-casting hobby, and would
any of your friends have junk vehicles that you can scrap? Some will allow you to scrap their cars for free, while
others will expect you to pay a little money for the junk. Either way, getting scrap metal from your friends and
family is always cheaper than buying new metal from the store.

You can also get junk cars by striking a deal with local car repair shops. Car repair shops are hospitals for sick cars,
and just like humans, vehicles do die in these “hospitals.” And who is better placed to inform you of the latest junk
cars than a mechanic in the repair shop? Even more, junk car owners will trust the mechanic’s advice to sell their
“dead” car to you, instead of having it waste away in the yard or having to pay to have it destroyed.

Driving around your neighborhood is also a great way to find junk cars. Consciously look out for old, rusting cars
outside people’s homes and contact the owners to convince them to sell the car to you. You can also attract junk car
owners by running a “We Buy Junk Cars” ad in the classified section of your local newspaper or on social media.

Another source of junk cars is your local metal recycling center. Metal recycling centers collect junk metal and
recycle them into functional metal items. As you would expect, metal recycling centers have a wide variety of junk
car parts that you can appropriate for your new hobby. Metal recycling centers know the value you can create out of
a junk car and can be relatively expensive. As such, this should be the last resort in your quest to find junk cars and
car parts for your hobby. Metal recycling centers work similarly to scrap yards, where customers pay per pound for
reclaimed metals like steel or aluminum. So, it’s important to inquire about their rates before making your purchase
order. Some common scrap metals that can be found in vehicles include:

○ Aluminum: Most commonly used in automotive manufacturing, aluminum is a lightweight metal that is also
resistant to corrosion.
○ Copper: Often used in wiring, plumbing, and other electrical applications, copper is a valuable metal with a high
scrap value.
○ Steel: The most common type of steel, carbon steel, is strong and durable and has a high scrap value.

● Damaged Home Appliances and Machines: Another source of scrap metal is damaged home appliances and
machines. These items can often be found at thrift stores or junkyards, and they are a great way to get started in
metal casting. Appliances and machines are made of all sorts of different metals, so it’s important to know what
type of metal you’re working with before you start melting it down. Some common metals used in appliances and
machines include aluminum, brass, copper, steel, and tin.

If you’re not sure what type of metal you have, try testing it with a magnet. If the magnet sticks, the metal is ferrous
and can be melted down in a forge or a foundry. If the magnet doesn’t stick, the metal is nonferrous and can be
melted down in a melter.

Vacuum cleaners, old lawn mower engines, boxes of old pipe fittings, and lawn sprinklers are good sources for
copper, aluminum, and brass. These can usually be purchased at a lesser price than the scrap metal value. Here are
some more creative ways you can find damaged home appliances to scrap:
○ Attend garage sales or flea markets.
○ Ask your friends and family if they have any damaged appliances or machines that they want to get rid of.

○ Look for damaged appliances and machines at garage sales, thrift stores, or online auction websites like eBay.
○ Check with your local recycling center to see if they accept damaged appliances and machines as scrap metal.

● Dumpsters and Mechanic Shops: Check dumpsters for metal objects that can be recycled. Many businesses will
discard metal objects in the trash, so it’s worth checking. Mechanic shops will gladly offload the numerous
damaged car parts that collect over time from the cars they service. Checking dumpsters and talking to mechanics
are both, therefore, great ways to find metal for your backyard metal-casting hobby. You can find scrap metal from
dumpsters by doing the following:

○ Poke through the trash to find scrap metal (be cautious of sharp objects). ○ Scope out local businesses for things
like old bikes, cars, microwaves, and the like. Metal recycling programs are becoming more popular, so you may
even be able to talk to managers there for more access to scrap metal!
○ Metal scrap is often placed outside for people to take. Before taking any metal from a location, find out who owns
it and get their permission. Metal recyclers will sometimes buy scrap if they feel that you took the metal responsibly
(i.e., you got permission first and didn’t damage anything).
○ Be on the lookout for abandoned buildings and homes. Metal scraps can often be found in these places.
● Scrap Yards: There are many sources for Metal casting, but if you are looking for metals that are specifically
made to be recycled, your best bet is to visit a scrap yard. Scrap yards will often have scrap metal-casting pieces of
all sorts available for purchase. The first step would be to look for scrap yards around town or online. Once you find
one, make sure they have what you need by asking about what they have at the scrap yard. Metal casting is a
versatile process, so it’s important to find a scrap yard that has a variety of metal-casting pieces available. You
don’t want to waste your time travelling to a scrap yard that doesn’t have what you need.

Once you find a scrap yard that has pieces available for purchase, take your own metal-casting pieces to determine
compatibility. Metal casting works best with other pieces that are the same type of metal. If the metals are not
compatible, it can lead to a backfire during the casting process. Metal castings should also be approximately the
same size. If you’re not sure what metal(s) are compatible, ask the scrap yard attendant for help. They should be
able to help you identify metal-casting pieces that are compatible with your pieces.
● New Metal-Casting Pieces: Metal casting can also be done with new

metal-casting pieces, but it can be more expensive than using recycled ones. If you have the money, new metal-
casting pieces can be found at most metal suppliers. Just like scrap yards, metal-casting suppliers will have a variety
of pieces to choose from. When looking for metal-casting supplies, it’s important to keep in mind the types of metal
you are interested in. Different metal castings use different kinds of equipment and materials, so metal-casting
suppliers will keep metal castings separate according to type.

If you’re having trouble finding the types of metal you need at one supplier, check other metal-casting suppliers
until you find ones that meet your needs. It’s important to get the right metal-casting supplies to do metal casting
well. You can also always find waste metal products from scrap materials around your home or from a nearby
mechanic shop. Waste metals could be anything from a container to old metal wares, or even parts of old machinery
or vehicles. Your home can provide great tools for your backyard foundry!

***

It is important to note that not all metals in your home foundry are great for casting. Avoid small or thin pieces of
aluminum such as that found in foil, cans, chips from a drill, and small metal leftovers. The reason for this is they
have a small volume-to-surface ratio and are likely to have a high loss due to oxidation. Instead, opt for the chunky
stuff. Stuff like an old lawnmower engine or aircraft aluminum make the best materials for casting. But in case you
find thin metallic materials, try to compress them as much as possible before submerging them in liquid melt.

Brass can also make for great scrap. However, avoid nickel-plated, thin pieces of brass scrap. Nickel’s melting
point is higher than that of brass, and melting this kind of mixture could result in dross and yuk. It’s worth noting
that recycling materials are increasing in popularity and are therefore bound to be more expensive in future.

If you are lucky enough to strike a deal with a local mechanic shop for scrap, good for you! You can also look for a
local scrap yard where you can find a variety of materials. Otherwise, you can also find good chunks of scrap metal
—such as old lawn mower engines, vacuum cleaners, auto parts, lawn sprinklers, and boxes of old pipe fittings—at
garage sales and flea markets at cheaper prices than at other locations.

One of the most frequent questions is whether soda and beer cans can be great sources for aluminum. Well, yes they
can, but there is a way to use them successfully. You see, these cans are very thin and can easily burn and oxidize
instead of melting. That’s why they are not commonly used for metal casting. The trick is to have a significant
amount of molten aluminum in the crucible in the first place before adding any crushed cans. This way, the cans
will easily melt and won’t oxidize.

Any aluminum object has the potential to be a good aluminum source. The best source for casting is old aluminum
machine parts such as car cylinder heads, transmission cases, or water pump pistons and housings. The parts are
made up of a strong alloy that doesn’t shrink as much. Other sources include lawn chairs, storm doors, beverage
cans, window frames, pie pans, disposable turkey foils; the list goes on.

Chapter Five: Melting and Mold Making

Now that we have covered the important basics of knowledge and safety when it comes to using your backyard
furnace for metal casting, we will cover how to create molds to cast the form that you would like for your metals.
Casting metals requires a hollow cavity, referred to as a mold, which holds the liquid metal in a particular form or
design until it cools and solidifies. The final process is complete when the cast is removed and the final product is
revealed. Molds are most often created for metal casting when a particular object is too complex in shape to
reasonably make outside of a mold. The preferable material for this is rigid material, which is a pure form of the
metal you have chosen. However, it is also possible to use various types of metal, including scrap metal, which
opens up the possibility of recycling what would normally be considered junk. Not only does this make using
various scrap metals a largely cheaper option but it is also more environmentally and financially friendly option for
a hobby metal caster like you!

Many molds also utilize cores, which are placed into the middle of a mold in order to create a hollow area within
the mold. These cores allow for the finished product to have empty space in the center, which would otherwise be
impossible to achieve when casting with a mold.

It is also very important that when you are creating your pattern for your casting molds you taper the edges. This
allows the pattern to be removed from the mold without breaking the mold itself. This process is known as drafting.
These patterns can be made out of various different materials, such as plastic, metal, wood, or wax. Next, we will
discuss the various types of molds that can be made so that you can decide which material is best for you and your
project.

Different Types of Foundry Crucibles

Foundry crucibles are used in foundries to create castings from molten metal. They can be made of refractory
materials such as fireclay, graphite, or silicon carbide and may have a steel lining for strength. The crucible material
must have a low thermal conductivity so that it does not transfer heat away from the molten metal too quickly. This
is important because the melt will start to solidify if it cools too much before being poured into the mold. The three
main types of foundry crucibles are sand-casting crucibles, investment casting crucibles, and continuous casting
crucibles. We will explore these and many more types of foundry crucibles below.

1. Sand-Casting Crucibles: These crucibles are used for projects where a high-temperature metal melt is not
desired. This type of foundry crucible produces a sand mold that is then filled with molten metal. The sand mold is
usually in a bowl shape and can be made from any refractory material. If your foundry is going to use this kind of
crucible, make sure that you have a steady supply of sand available.
2. Investment Casting Crucibles: This kind of crucible gives foundries the ability to use higher-melting-point
metals such as bronze and aluminum. These foundry crucibles allow foundries to pour bronze, which has a melting
point of 1,625 degrees Fahrenheit (883 degrees Celsius), into them without getting too hot because they conduct the
heat away from the metal slowly. They do this by relying on whiskers rather than conduction, like sand-casting
crucibles do. The foundry will create a pattern, called a model, of what is going to be created. Foundry crucibles for
this use can be made from a number of refractory materials such as fireclay, graphite, silicon carbide, and
vanadium.

Investment foundry crucibles are similar to sand foundry crucibles in that they produce a sand mold. However,
unlike sand foundry crucibles, investment casting crucibles use wax instead of sand (PMC Supplies, n.d.). Melted
paraffin wax is used, and once the wax has cooled and hardened, the investment casting crucible is placed in a kiln
and fired. The high temperature of the kiln melts the wax and creates a void in the shape of the pattern that was used
to create the foundry crucible. This void is then filled with molten metal and, once cooled, the mold is removed
from the casting. Investment casting crucibles are not as common as sand-casting crucibles, but they have the
advantage of having the capacity to create very intricate castings.
3. Continuous Casting Crucibles: Continuous casting crucibles are used in

foundries that produce metal parts using the continuous casting process. In this foundry process, molten metal is
poured into the foundry crucible. A tundish with a tap hole above it is attached to it, and as molten metal leaves the
foundry crucible, it solidifies into a strand of metal. This process continues until there is enough metal in the
tundish to make what’s needed. Foundry crucibles for this foundry process are very large and can range from a few
inches across to two feet in diameter.

Continuous casting crucibles cannot be made from graphite, silicon carbide, or refractory fireclay because the metal
will react with these materials at high temperatures. They need to be made from a material that is inert to the metal
being poured. The most common material for this type of crucible is silicon nitride. Foundry crucibles can be made
of refractory materials such as high-alumina ceramics, graphite, pot-style silicon carbide, fused silica, cordierite, or
crystallobalite.

4. Ceramic Crucibles: Ceramic crucibles are ceramic vessels that can be used for foundry purposes. These
crucibles are mainly used for melting aluminum because their natural insulation properties help to reduce heat loss.
Ceramic crucibles come in two main designs: a straight-sided or a conical model. The straight-sided crucible is
generally preferred by operators because it is easier to remove the slag after the metal has melted, but it cannot
handle as much volume as a conical crucible. A conical crucible, on the other hand, can handle more volume,
though slagging can be difficult. It is up to the operator to decide which version is better for their needs.

There are also three main types of ceramic crucibles: alumina, silica, and magnesia. Alumina crucibles have the
highest thermal shock resistance, while magnesia ones have the lowest. Silica crucibles are a good compromise
between the two.

The main disadvantage of ceramic crucibles is that they are not as durable as other types of foundry crucibles. They
can shatter if they are dropped. They also need to be fired in a kiln after each use, which takes time and increases
the cost of using them.
5. Graphite Crucibles: This kind of crucible is made of high-purity graphite and is the most common type of
foundry crucible. They have a high heat resistance, meaning they can be used for casting all types of metals at high
temperatures. Graphite crucibles also have a low reactivity with most metals, so they can be used for foundries that
produce large volumes of castings.

Graphite crucibles come in different shapes and sizes depending on the manufacturer. They can be rectangular or
cylindrical, though the most popular types are tapered at the bottom and have a flat top and base. The main
disadvantage of graphite crucibles is that they are not as durable as other types of crucibles. They can crumble if
they are dropped. And, like ceramic crucibles, they also need to be fired in a kiln after each use.

6. Silicon Carbide Crucibles: Silicon carbide crucibles are the most durable kind of crucibles because they can
withstand temperatures of up to 5,252 degrees Fahrenheit, or 2,900 degrees Celsius. Foundry workers use silicon
carbide crucibles for casting aluminum-, copper-, and nickel-based alloys. They also come in different shapes and
sizes.

The main disadvantage of silicon carbide crucibles is that they are not as popular among foundry workers because
their durability means they are more expensive. And like the two aforementioned crucible types, they also need to
be fired in a kiln after each use.

7. Zirconia Alumina Crucibles: Zirconia crucibles are a durable option that can heat up and cool down quickly.
Foundry workers use zirconia alumina crucibles for casting magnesium and its alloys because the material does not
absorb water (which is a common problem with other types of foundry crucibles). Foundry workers also use
zirconia alumina crucibles for castings that require a high-temperature refractory lining to protect the foundry from
corrosion.

Zirconia crucibles come in different shapes and sizes, but they are most commonly cylindrical in shape. Also
available are cyclendrical options with a flat bottom and lid, though they are more expensive to buy. The main
disadvantage of zirconia crucibles is that they can break if they are dropped or handled roughly. These will also
need to be fired in a kiln after each use.

8. Fused Silica Crucibles: Fused silica crucibles are the most popular type of crucible for melting gold and silver.
They are made of high-quality quartz glass and can withstand temperatures up to 3,092 degrees Fahrenheit, or 1,700
degrees Celsius. Foundry workers use fused silica crucibles for casting gold, silver, and other precious metals.
The main advantage of fused silica crucibles is that they are durable and can withstand high temperatures. Foundry
workers also use them because they do not absorb water, which can cause other types of crucibles to crack. The
main disadvantage of fused silica crucibles is that they are expensive to buy. And these also need to be fired in a
kiln after each use.

Factors to Consider When Buying Foundry Crucibles

● Shape: The shape of the crucible is an important thing to consider. There are many different shapes available,
including round, square, and rectangular. You need to choose the shape that will best fit the needs of your foundry
or project. Round crucibles are best used for small parts because they have a smaller surface area than square or
rectangular ones. This will help to prevent molten metal from spilling over the sides of the crucible. On the other
hand, square and rectangular crucibles are better for larger castings because they have a larger surface area than
round crucibles. This will help to prevent the molten metal from pooling and forming a solid casting on the bottom
of the crucible.

● Type of Refractory Material: The refractory material used to make the foundry crucible is important because it
affects the performance of the crucible. There are three main types of refractory material used to make foundry
crucibles: clay, alumina, and silicon carbide.

Clay crucibles are made from a natural clay that is fired at a high temperature. This type of crucible is the most
durable and can withstand the highest temperatures. However, they are also the most expensive to purchase.
Alumina crucibles are made from an alumina-based ceramic material. They are not as durable as clay crucibles, but
they are less expensive to purchase. Silicon carbide crucibles are made from a ceramic material that is blended with
silicon carbide particles. They are more durable than clay crucibles, but they are also the most expensive type to
purchase.

● Price: The price of your foundry crucible is also an important consideration because you don’t want to purchase
one that is too expensive. The price of the crucible will vary depending on the type of refractory material used.
Alumina crucibles are less expensive than silicon carbide crucibles, while clay crucibles are the most expensive
option.

● Temperature the Crucible Can Withstand: All foundry crucibles are not created equal, and some can
withstand higher temperatures than others. For example, foundry crucibles made from alumina will be able to
withstand higher temperatures than crucibles made from clay. So it is important to choose a crucible that can
withstand the temperatures required for the work you plan to do.

***
Metal-Casting Molds

There are many different types of metal-casting molds, each with its own advantages and disadvantages. Some of
the most common types of metal-casting molds are sand molds, plaster molds, and die-casting molds.

● Sand Molds: Sand molds are the oldest type of metal-casting mold and can be made at home with a little bit of
effort. A sand mold is made by wetting sand and then pouring it into a carved design on a wooden block, such as an
armchair or fireplace. The last step in making a sand mold is to cover the mold with more dampened sand so that
the hot metal doesn’t dry out prematurely.

The main disadvantage of sand molds is that they are not very strong and tend to break easily. They are also
susceptible to warping and can only be used a few times before they need to be replaced.
● Plaster Molds: A plaster mold is made by mounting a model, such as a human head or figure, inside a box and
then coating the outside of the box with wet plaster. After the plaster dries, the mold can be removed from the box
and is ready to be filled with molten metal. This type of metal casting is best used in situations where you have a
good idea of what the finished product should look like. The main downside to using this type of metal-casting
mold is that they can’t produce large quantities in one sitting. It also takes a long time to dry and can be difficult to
remove from the model.
● Die-Casting Molds: A die-casting mold is a type of mold that has a hollow cavity in which liquid metal can be
poured. The shape of the cavity determines the shape of the final product, so this works best for designs that are
symmetrical. The cavity is made with a set of steel blocks that are machined to extraordinarily precise
measurements so that the finished product will appear exactly as intended. Die-casting molds produce finely
detailed metal products and can make pretty much any shape or design. However, this type of metal-casting mold is
very expensive, which can makes it difficult for amateurs to procure.
***

Metal-casting molds also differ depending on their construction materials—like graphite, cast iron, and steel.
Graphite molds are lightweight but fragile, so they are not suitable for complex lettering or lacy designs. Cast iron
molds are heavy and sturdy, but require extensive preparation to ensure the finished product is ready for use. Steel
molds are durable and can produce high-quality patterns. Above, we have covered some basic information about
different types of metal-casting molds, with pros and cons to help you decide which one might be best for what
you’re trying to accomplish. This is not an exhaustive list by any means but should give a good overview of what’s
out there when it comes to metal-casting mold options.

Step-by-Step Guide for Making DIY Metal-Casting Molds

It is possible to make your own metal-casting molds at home using the following steps. You will need:

● Alumel casting tubes

● Bentonite clay (optional)
● Paper towels
● Aluminum foil (optional)
● Silicon rubber mold release spray, or Vaseline (optional)
● Plaster mold mix
● Bucket of water (for mixing)
● Paper cups or beakers for measuring out components ● Rubber gloves
● Safety glasses

Procedure:
1. Cut your alumel casting tubes to the desired length using a hacksaw or tubing cutter.
2. If you are using bentonite clay, mix it with water to form a slurry. The consistency should be that of thick paint.
Add water until you reach the desired consistency.
3. If you are using aluminum foil, cover the work surface with it. The aluminum foil will help to keep the bentonite
clay from sticking to the surface.
4. Soak the paper towels in the bentonite slurry, making sure to saturate them well. Wring out the excess and place
the towels on your work surface.
5. Spray the silicon rubber mold release spray or apply a coating of Vaseline to the alumel casting tubes.
6. Mix the plaster mold mix according to the instructions on the package.
7. Pour the plaster mix into a bucket of water and stir until it is well mixed and has a thick, smooth consistency.
8. Pour the plaster mix into the mold cavity of the alumel casting tubes, filling it about three-quarters full.
9. Place a paper cup in each end of the mold and trace around them with a pencil to mark where they sit in the
aluminum foil or bentonite clay.

10.Place one hand inside a paper cup and use your other hand to press the bentonite clay or aluminum foil against
the traced circles. This will help to create a seal between the mold and the casting material.

11. Allow the plaster mix to harden for twenty-four hours.

12. Remove the plaster cast from the alumel casting tubes by gently pressing on the top of the cup. If the cast
doesn’t come out easily, use a screwdriver or other sharp object to help pry it loose.

13. Sand the rough edges of the plaster cast with sandpaper to smooth them out.
14. If you are making multiple molds, repeat the steps above as many times as needed.
Creating a Mold Using a Series of Frames

The first step in creating a casting mold is acquiring your mold flask. These two frames are often made out of iron
or wood. It is important to make sure that your frames are large enough to hold whatever object you were trying to
cast. You can find these mold frames online or at specialty metal supply stores, but they can also be crafted. It is
possible to use bold frames of any material. The frame simply has to be strong enough to withstand the project.

Next, we are going to place one of the old frames on a flat surface. Then we are going to place the object that you
are trying to cast in the center of the frame. Take care to place the flattest side of the object facedown on the table.
You will then cover your object in parting dust, just enough so that the entire surface is sprinkled with it. This is to
prevent the molding material from sticking to your molding objects. This also allows for a more detailed mold.
Parting dust can be found online or in specialty metal-casting supply stores.

Now, you will begin the process of dampening your molding sand and mixing it, which will result in a molding
paste. First you must grab your molding sand and slightly dampen the material with water, preferably with a spray
bottle. Then the sand must be tossed until it is a semi-dry paste. The longer you toss your sand, the better the
material will turn out. This allows time for the moisture to soak into your molding sand. If you’re looking to
purchase molding sand online or in a specialty store, it is also called foundry sand or green sand.

The molding frame can now be filled with your sand. It must be poured and then sifted into the frame to help
compact the material and fully compress your casting object. You may press the object with your fingers to receive
a better pattern in your mold. After this is done, add additional sand to the mold and make sure that it is well above
the frame’s border. The frame itself should be somewhat overflowing. Once you have filled the frame with a
sufficient amount of sand, it is important to compact the sand as much as possible, taking up any free space within
the frame. This is best accomplished by using the paddle end of a rammer to press the material fully into the frame
as much as possible. Now, you can scrape away the excess sand from the top. At this point, your mold should be
smooth all across the top. You can then place your molding frame on top of the frame you have just finished
packing and repeat the process.

Next, we will be focusing on making a sprue hole. This hole is intended to pour liquid metal into the cast and
should be approximately half an inch wide and run from the top of the mold to the bottom. You can make this hole
by using your dowel rod and pushing it into molding sand. You are only going to need to make this hole in one
mold frame piece. Using a chisel or a small knife, cut a shallow passageway between your sprue hole and the
casting object. This allows the liquid metal to move through the mold and into your main cast. Make sure your
passageway does not go all the way through it, the way the sprue hole did.

Now, we are going to create riser holes, which are intended to hold excess metal that has been poured into the cast.
This can also be done using your dowel rod. You can create one or more riser holes for your project, depending on
how many you think you’ll need. You have the option to connect your riser holes to the surface of the cast or keep
them as they are in the sand.

Once you have finished creating your sprue and riser holes, you may tap your molding object gently to loosen it
from the imprinted mold and your frame. Carefully remove the object, taking care not to disturb the pattern in your
sand. If your sand is still wet, allow time for your mold to dry. If your sand is fairly damp then you may begin using
it to cast your metal immediately.

Filling the Mold

Before we begin filling the mold, it is important that you put on your protective gear. Your PPE for this project
should consist of a pair of leather working gloves, protective goggles or a full face shield, and thick leather boots.
Now, begin by locking your mold frame into place. Metal-casting frames should have locking mechanisms on either
side that can be tightened together via a nut and screw.

Step-by-Step Guide to Pouring Molten Metal

1. When you’re ready to pour your molten metal, make sure that you have all of your safety gear on. This includes a
face shield, welding gloves, and apron. Metal casting can be dangerous, so it’s important to be safe.

2.Next, place your crucible on the foundry furnace. Make sure that it’s in the correct position so that the metal will
flow into your mold properly.

3. Once the crucible is in place, light the furnace and wait for it to reach the correct temperature. When the metal is
at the right temperature, use your tongs to remove it from the furnace.

4.Carefully pour the molten metal into your mold. Make sure that you pour it slowly and steadily so that you don’t
create any turbulence in the metal.
5.Once the metal has solidified in the mold, use your chisel to break it free. Then, use your hammer to knock it out
of the mold.
6.Congratulations! You’ve just created a cast-metal object.
Skimming as a Metal Refining Technique

Skimming is a metal refining technique that removes slag. The removal of slag refers to the material that forms on
molten metal during metallurgy production—this material can sometimes be skimmed off with certain devices
called ladles. Skimming helps your metallurgy production in many ways, including:

● Removing slag, which improves the quality of your metal.

● Reducing the amount of impurities in your metal.
● Maintaining a consistent temperature during the metallurgy process, which reduces

the time you spend waiting for your metal to cool.

● Preventing carbon from mixing with your metal, which can cause serious health
problems during metallurgy processes.
● Promoting uniformity in your production process.

How to Successfully Skim Slag

To skim slag off of molten metal, you will need a ladle. Metal refining usually requires multiple vessels and ladles,
which can be used to transfer molten metal from one vessel to another. Metal must be transferred using a skimming
device, such as a ladle or skimmer. Metal must also be preheated before it is skimmed because removing moisture
and preventing metal from sticking to the surface of the vessel will improve the refining process. Metal should be
skimmed from the surface and poured into molds or vessels for storage. Essentially, you should remember the
following:

● Metal vessels must be preheated to remove moisture and prevent your metal from sticking to the vessel’s surface.
● Metal must be ladled into a specific area of the vessel using a skimming device, such as a ladle or skimmer.
● Metal is skimmed off of the surface and poured into molds or vessels for storage of new material.

Tips for Successfully Skimming the Slag

Skimming slag is an essential step in the process of making metal. Skimmers are used to remove excess slag, which
floats on top of molten metal during the refining process. With a skimmer, you can remove up to 95 percent of this
impurity at once, leaving just pure iron or steel below. Skimming slag is not only important for producing quality
metals for use in industry and construction projects but it also provides a valuable commodity that can be sold
commercially.

Considerations to Make When Skimming

Here are are a few things to keep in mind when skimming slag:

● Slag Type (e.g., iron, steel, aluminum): The first thing you need to do is determine what kind of slag you are
going to be skimming. There are three basic types: iron, steel, and aluminum. Iron slags tend to be the softest, steel
tends to generate more heat as it melts, and aluminum slags are the hottest.

● Metal Temperature: You also need to take into account the temperature of the metal. When skimming iron, the
metal should be between 1,600 and 1,800 degrees Fahrenheit (871–982 degrees Celsius). For steel, it should be
between 2,200 and 2,400 degrees Fahrenheit (1,204–1,315 degrees Celsius). And for aluminum, it should be
between 1,000 and 1,200 degrees Fahrenheit (537–649 degrees Celsius).

● Slag Composition: The next thing to consider is the composition of the slag. Slag can be basic or acidic. Basic
slag is made up of oxides, while acidic slag is made up of sulfides. The easiest way to determine whether a slag is
basic or acidic is to test it with a pH meter.

● Slag Size: The size of the slag is also important. If the slag is too big, it will be difficult to skim off. If it is too
small, it will be blown away by the wind or fall through the cracks in your skimmer. The ideal size for a slag is
between one and one-and-a-half inches in diameter.

● Your Skimming Tool’s Surface Area: The final thing to consider when skimming slag is the surface area of
your tool. The larger the surface area, the more material you will be able to skim off at one time. However, it is
important not to make your skimmer so big that it will sink down into the molten metal.

Chapter Six: The Ten Types of Casting

Metal-casting methods vary, but all involve pouring molten metal into a mold and allowing it to cool before
extracting the finished product. There are two main categories of metal casting: lost-wax (the most prevalent) and
sand casting. Both require specialized equipment like molds, furnaces, crucibles, and ladles. The types of metal
castings produced depend on the type of equipment used. These include cold-chamber die-casting (for producing
small parts), shell molding (producing hollow shapes with thick walls), centrifugal casting (a more economical
method than cold-chamber die-casting), and pressure casting (for producing thin parts). The main advantage of
metal castings is their strength, which results from a process called solidification.

Types of Casting

As you embark on your metal-casting hobby, it’ll be helpful for you to understand the various metal-casting types
and their advantages and disadvantages before you settle on the most appropriate metal-casting type for your home
foundry.

● Lost-Wax Casting: Lost-wax casting is the most commonly used type of casting because it produces high-
quality products with a high level of detail. It’s a subtractive process that starts with an artist creating a wax replica
of the desired object. A metal or plaster pattern is created to form an impression in a material, called the mold. The
pattern is then removed and wax (called the lost-wax) is poured into the cavity to create a mold. Molten metal is
then introduced into the mold, which later solidifies inside it. After cooling, the wax pattern is taken out of the mold
and a new metal object is created with the same shape.

The main advantage of the lost-wax method is the amount of detail that can be achieved. The lost-wax method
allows for more intricate details to be created in a metal object because there are no limitations imposed by the
mold. Furthermore, it allows for the creation of complex shapes with complicated features, without needing to
worry about limitations of the mold.

The main disadvantage of lost-wax casting is the amount of time it takes to create a mold. Another disadvantage is
the amount of money you’ll need to set up the equipment necessary for this casting method. The final disadvantage
is the lack of flexibility that this casting method offers. Once a mold is created, it can only be used to produce one
object. If any changes need to be made to the design, you’ll need to create a whole new mold.

● Sand Casting: This casting method involves pouring molten metal into a sand mold to create a finished product,
usually a part of a larger original pattern, called the master pattern. A two-component system consisting of two
types of sand is used: loose sand and green sand. If it’s a two-part mold, three different sands are required for
pouring: loose sand, applied to the pattern; a binding agent (or glue), which attaches the loose sand to the pattern;
and finally green sand, an untampered mixture of sand, clay, and water, used to fill the mold cavity. The use of
different sands allows for a better surface finish due to the finer grain of the sand. It also results in a stronger
casting. The main advantages of sand casting include:

○ Low cost: Sand casting is a relatively inexpensive process, which makes it a popular choice for producing small-
to medium-size parts.
○ Ease of use: Sand casting is a simple process that can be used to create a wide variety of objects of different
shapes and sizes.
○ Large casting: Sand casting can produce large parts, up to several thousand pounds.
○ Fewer restrictions: There are few restrictions on the shape or size of parts that can be produced with sand casting.

The main disadvantage of sand casting is the low dimensional accuracy. This is due to the nature of the process,
because it’s essentially creating a mold using loose material. Another disadvantage is that any fine detail on the
pattern has to be reproduced in secondary operations, such as filing and grinding. Also, because sand casting
doesn’t hold shut-off features well, it’s more difficult to avoid shrinkage and warping.

● Cold-Chamber Die-Casting: Cold-chamber die-casting is a metal-casting process that is used to produce parts
from nonferrous metals, like aluminum and brass. In this process, the molten metal is poured into a chamber that is
cooled by water. The metal solidifies and is then ejected from the chamber. This casting process is ideal for metals
with high melting points and corrosive properties, such as aluminum.

The main advantage of cold-chamber die-casting is that it produces high-quality parts with a good surface finish.
Additionally, this process is efficient and can be used to produce parts in large quantities. The main disadvantage of
cold-chamber die-casting is the higher cost associated with the process. Additionally, it can be difficult to maintain
consistent quality when producing large quantities of parts.

● Shell Molding: Shell-mold casting uses resin-coated sand for the mold. The sand is first covered in a resin and
then compressed to create a hard shell. This shell is then used to create a mold for the metal casting.

The advantage of shell-mold casting is that it’s an inexpensive process. It also produces high-quality products with
little surface defects. The main disadvantage of this process is that it takes a long time to produce a mold. This is
because of the time it takes to cure the resin before it can be removed from the sand. Additionally, some fine-tuning
may be necessary after the mold has been created. For example, if a part had a surface defect, then this defect will
also exist on the mold. Furthermore, shell patterns are very fragile and cannot withstand high temperatures, so they
are typically used for low-temperature metals.

● Centrifugal Casting: Also known as rotocasting, this is a casting technique that typically used to cast thin-
walled cylinders. It is a fast and efficient process that produces high-quality products with little defects.

The main advantage of centrifugal casting is the high production rate—this method can produce parts at a rate of up
to 1,000 parts per hour; that’s a large number of parts in a very short amount of time! Additionally, the parts
produced are high quality and have very few defects. The main disadvantage of centrifugal casting is that it can
only be used to cast cylindrical parts. Non-cylindrical parts cannot be produced with this casting method.
Additionally, the process is limited to small parts with a diameter of up to twelve inches.
● Pressure Casting: Pressure casting is the process of using a pressure chamber and compressor to eliminate
bubbles from a casting resin or rubber mold. It is also known as pressurized casting, vacuum casting, or vacuum-
assisted casting. The chamber is filled with liquid polyurethane before it is compressed with a pressure pump to
reduce the number of bubbles in the resin. This technique can be used for either green or dry-cast production. It has
many advantages, including reduced cooling time, reduced material consumption, improved surface finish,
improved dimensional accuracy, less distortion during drying, and better tolerance, which we dive into below:

○ Reduced cooling time: Parts can be removed from the pressure chamber and used immediately, without the need
for additional cooling time.
○ Reduced material consumption: The use of pressure casting can reduce material consumption by up to 50 percent.
This is because it minimizes the amount of gas trapped in the casting resin.
○ Improved surface finish: The pressure used during the casting process helps fill in small surface pores and
recesses.
○ Improved dimensional accuracy: Pressure casting can reduce shrinkage, which results in a decrease in
dimensional size.
○ Less distortion during drying: This is because the pressure applied to the resin forces it into all of the part’s
cavities, which helps to prevent distortion.
○ Better tolerance: Pressure casting results in a more consistent part finish, which leads to better tolerance of the
product.

The main disadvantage of pressure casting is the high initial cost. This is because it requires the purchase of a
pressure chamber and compressor. Additionally, the process can only be used with liquid polyurethane resins.

● Investment Casting: Investment casting is so named because the process invests (surrounds) the pattern with
refractory material to make a mold, which a molten substance is cast into. Investment casting can be done by hand
or via a machine. The latter follows the same procedure as lost-wax casting, but with simplified preparation. The
main advantages of investment casting are:
○ High-quality parts with very few defects.
○ A fast and efficient production process.
○ Can produce parts with a high degree of accuracy and precision. ○ Can produce thin and hollow parts.

The main disadvantage of this method is its high initial cost. Investment casting requires a great deal of skill to
produce consistent results, and the patterns require a significant amount of time to prepare, both of which also
increase the overall cost. A typical production rate for investment casting is less than one part per hour, which is
much lower than other casting methods.

● Gravity Casting: Gravity casting is among the oldest-known processes for fabricating metals and metal alloys. It
involves the pouring of molten metal from a crucible into a mold that is situated below the crucible. The mold is
generally made of sand, although other materials (such as graphite) can be used. The metal solidifies and is then
removed from the mold. The main advantages of gravity casting are:

○ Low cost: Gravity casting is one of the least expensive methods of manufacturing metal parts.
○ Efficient: Parts can be produced at a high rate, making it an ideal process for high volume production.
○ Accurate: Gravity casting produces parts with high dimensional accuracy and precision.
○ Wide range of metals and alloys can be cast: This includes both ferrous and nonferrous metals.

The main disadvantage of gravity casting is its low-quality surface finish. Additionally, the process is not suitable
for the production of small or intricate parts.

● Low-Pressure Die-Casting: This type of casting allows for molten metal to be introduced at a lower pressure
than normal, due to its downward direction. This is especially true when compared with other pressure-based
casting processes. This process can produce a large number of parts in a short period of time, and it is typically
much more cost-effective than other casting methods. The main disadvantage of low-pressure die-casting is that it
can only be used with nonferrous metals. Additionally, the process results in a lower-quality part finish.

● Open-Die Forging: Open-die forging, also known as flat-die forging, hand forging, blacksmith forging, or smith
forging, is basically done by hand. As such, you don’t need to use any special tools. The hammer is the only tool
used to form the metal. This type of forging produces a rough part with lots of surface defects. The main advantage
of open-die forging is that it can be used to produce parts from a variety of metals, including high-carbon steels.
Additionally, this process is very versatile and can be used to create a wide range of part shapes and sizes. The main
disadvantage of open-die forging is its low production rate. It can take hours to make only a few parts.

● Closed-Die Forging: Closed-die forging is also referred to as impression-die forging. It utilizes high pressure to
form the metal into a desired shape. This process can produce a greater number of parts in a shorter amount of time
than open-die forging.

The main advantage of closed-die forging is the relative ease of the process. It is a more automated process than
open-die forging, which means it can produce a greater number of parts in a shorter amount of time. The main
disadvantage of closed-die forging, however, is that it can only be used with ferrous metals. Additionally, the
process results in a lower-quality part finish.

● Roll Forging: A roll forging machine typically consists of a punch and a die, mounted so that they can move in
perpendicular directions to shape metal parts. The rolls are pressed together to create the desired shape. Roll forging
has been widely used in many industries, from automotive production to engines. The advantages of roll forging are
its flexibility. The process can be set to produce a variety of shapes and sizes, making it ideal for high-volume
production. Additionally, the rolls are inexpensive compared to other tooling options.

The major disadvantage of this process is its inability to produce long, thin parts. Roll forging also requires
excessive amounts of force, which can cause large forgings to break or deform before they reach their desired
shape.
● Wire Drawing: Wire drawing is a metalworking process used to reduce a

cross-section of wire by pulling it through a series of dies. This is done by forcing the wire through a die that has a
smaller opening than the wire. The process can be repeated multiple times to produce a wire with an even smaller
diameter. The main advantages of wire drawing include:

○ It’s a versatile process that can be used to form wires from a variety of metals.

○ It’s an efficient process, capable of producing large quantities of wire in a short period of time.
○ It produces wires with a high degree of accuracy and precision.

The main disadvantage of wire drawing is its low production rate. It can take hours to make only a few wires.
Factors to Consider When Choosing a Metal-Casting Technique

There are many different types of metal casting, each with its own advantages and disadvantages. So, how do you
choose the right one for your project? Here are some factors to consider:

● Type of Metal: The metal you’re casting will have a huge impact on the type of metal-casting technique you’ll
want to use. For example, aluminum is a soft metal and is best cast using the lost-wax technique. Steel is a much
harder metal and can be cast using several different techniques, including sand casting and investment casting.

● Complexity of the Design: The more complex the design, the more difficult it will be to cast. Some casting
techniques are more versatile than others, so if your design has intricate details or sharp corners, it may be best to
choose a technique that will allow you the best results.

● Size of Casting Required: Choosing the metal casting technique with the largest capacity is usually your best
bet. If you need to cast small jewelry pieces, lost-wax might not be ideal, while sand casting may be a better choice.

● Cost: Casting techniques can vary in terms of the cost of the equipment and materials required. Choose the
technique that fits your budget without compromising quality.

● Ease of Use: Some metal-casting techniques are more difficult to follow than others. If you’re a beginner, choose
a technique that is easy to learn and has forgiving parameters.
● Required Equipment: Some metal-casting techniques require more equipment than others, so choose the
technique that requires less specialized equipment.

● Time Involved: Metal casting is known for being a very time-intensive process. If you’re short on time, invest in
some extra hands or automated equipment to speed up your next project.

The factors above are just a few of the things to consider when choosing a metal-casting technique. By taking the
time to assess your needs, you’ll be able to choose the technique that’s best for your project.

Chapter Seven: What Can I Make with My Foundry?

If you love creative challenges and building new things, then metal casting is the perfect hobby for you. There are
thousands of metalworkers in the world doing metal casting as a hobby. The job itself is not rocket science; all you
need is the right knowledge and you are good to go.

There is no reason not to try metal casting. Start enjoying the benefits right away, when you build your first set of
equipment, and in no time, you will be creating amazing things. You only need some basic foundry knowledge and
simple home equipment for the trade and you are ready to start making things.

What You Can Make with Your Home Foundry

With a home foundry, you can create anything you want. The only limit is your imagination, passion,
determination, and—of course—your skill. The more you learn, the more you will improve at your craft. As you
have seen in this guide, foundry activities are fairly basic. Some of the common things to make with a home
foundry are:

● Hand wheels
● Ornaments like door knobs or handles
● Statues and art casings
● Property nameplates
● Vintage car and motorcycle parts
● Special project parts
● Unobtainable and creative parts for restoration projects

Now, that’s the simple part of metal casting. When it comes to the professional side, casting has a wide application
in various industries. Here are a few statistics from the US alone: In 2005, the US shipped over fourteen million
tons of castings, which were worth more than $33 billion. It was estimated then that by 2015 the figure would reach
$46.7 billion (TheMetalCasting.com, n.d.).

You cannot deny that casting is an essential part of the economy, especially the manufacturing sector. Casting
eliminates the long process of assembly and the expensive cost of machine parts. Any piece that can be combined
into a single part is cast, and any metal that can be melted is cast. Size does not matter here. From a watch case to a
diesel engine, casting is everywhere, with the transport sector being the most predominant and taking up over half
of casting products. Here is an illustration showing the industry consumers of casting:

● Transport industry: Railway, automobile, aerospace, and shipping.

● Machine tools: Casting, machining, forging, plastics molding, extrusion, and forming.
● Heavy Equipment: Farming, construction, and mining.
● Plant machinery: Petroleum, chemical, textile, sugar, paper, steel, and textile. ● Defense: Artillery, vehicles,
munitions, storage, and supporting equipment. ● Electrical equipment machinery: Pumps, motors, generators, and
compressors. ● Hardware: Valves, joints plumbing industry pipes, and fittings.
● Art objects: Furniture, sculptures, idols, lamp stands, and other decorative items. ● Household: Kitchen and
gardening appliances, furniture, and fittings.

Inspiring Ideas for Items You Can Make in Your Home Foundry

So, you’ve built yourself a home foundry and you’re wondering what you can make with it. Well, wonder no more!
Here are some examples of things you can make with your home foundry:

1.Make a birdbath with your foundry! It’s a great way to spend some time on a Saturday afternoon.
2. Do you have a small child who is mysteriously drawn to the furnace in the basement? You can use your home
foundry to make an adorable little duck pond for her that she’ll love! Make sure to put a fence around it to keep her
from falling in.

3.Cast some new door handles for your house! It’s a great way to give your home a fresh look without spending a
lot of money.
4.Cast some new knobs for your kitchen cabinets! This is a great way to add some personality to your kitchen
without spending a lot of money.
5.Cast a new mailbox for your front yard! This is a great way to add some personality to your neighborhood and
keep your mail safe from the elements.
6.Cast a new weathervane for your roof! This is a great way to keep an eye on the weather and make your house
look unique.
7.Make an old-fashioned witch’s cauldron! This is a great way to add some whimsy and magic to your home.
8.Cast a new umbrella stand! This is a great way to add a more personal touch to functional home furniture.
9.Cast some new bookends for your bookshelf! This is a great way to add some personality to your library and keep
your books from falling over.
10.Cast a new doorstop in the shape of a rubber duck! This is a great way to keep your doors from slamming shut
and adding a touch of whimsy to your home.

11. Cast a new paperweight in the shape of your favorite animal! This is a great way to show off your creativity.
12.Cast some new name plates for your mailbox! This is a great way to constantly be reminded of who lives at your
house and keep your mail from getting mixed up with your neighbor’s.

You can cast anything you want, in any shape you want, so why stop there? Once you’ve mastered the basics of
metal casting, you can cast anything you want! Just use your imagination.

Monetizing Your Home Foundry Hobby

It’s easy to monetize your home foundry hobby, especially if you know the right tricks. We will discuss the details
of how you can monetize your hobby in a bit. But first, let’s discuss why you should.

Why Monetize Your Home Foundry Hobby?

There are many reasons why monetizing your metal-casting hobby can be a great idea. Some of these reasons
include:

● You can make money from something you love doing.

● It’s a great way to turn a hobby into a secondary source of income. ● It’s a way to get more use out of your home
foundry.
● It can help you improve your metal-casting skills.
● It can help you expand your knowledge of metal casting.
● You might have a lot of products in mind that you want to try your hand at casting,

but don’t have a use for them yourself.

The above list is, of course, inconclusive. There are many more reasons why you should consider monetizing your
hobby. Below, we’ll dive into a few ways you can monetize your metal-casting hobby.

Ways to Monetize Your Home Foundry Hobby

Now that we know why monetizing a home foundry is a good idea, let’s discuss how. There are two main ways to
generate income from your metal-casting hobby: selling the objects you make, and monetizing your skills.

Selling Metal-Cast Objects

One way to monetize your home foundry hobby is to sell the objects you have created at your home forge. There
are a few things you need to do in order to make this work, though. First, they need to be actually worth something
monetarily. Only monetize products that you know will sell. For example, monetizing rusted candle holders isn’t
going to work because they aren’t worth much money. You can monetize other objects, such as solid-brass door
knobs, metal statues, and so on.

Monetizing Your Metal-Casting Skills

Your metal-casting skills are worth a lot of money, so you should consider this path. The easiest way to monetize
your metal-casting skills is by sharing your knowledge with beginners or even experienced metal casters. Below are
some tips to help you sell your skills.

Tips to Quickly Monetize Your Home Foundry Hobby

The following tips will make your metal-casting monetization process simpler and faster:

1. Design your objects with the customer in mind: Designing your objects with the customer in mind is essential.
When you are designing your objects, think about how you can make them more appealing to buyers. This could
include making sure that the shapes are interesting and unique, or adding decorative elements to them.

When you are designing your objects, think about how you can sell them for a profit. For example, if you are
making small metal animals, make sure that the shapes are interesting and unique so that people will be more likely
to buy them.

2. Sell your objects online: One of the best ways to monetize your home foundry hobby is to sell your objects
online. There are a number of websites that allow you to sell your creations, such as Etsy or eBay. These websites
provide a platform for you to showcase your work and connect with buyers from all over the world. You can also
use social media channels to sell your objects. This could include setting up a Facebook page or a Twitter account
specifically for your business. Alternatively, you could create a website or blog to showcase your work.

3. Sell your creations at craft fairs: Another great way to monetize your home foundry hobby is to sell your
products at craft fairs. These events provide a great opportunity for you to meet potential buyers, sell your creations
directly, and talk to them about your work. You may even be able to get some feedback on how you can improve or
market certain items, which will give you new ideas on how to monetize your home foundry hobby in the future.

4. Sell your products to retailers: If you want to take your monetization efforts one step further, you could sell
your objects to retailers. This could involve setting up a deal with a local store, or reaching out to larger retailers
online. When selling your products to retailers, it’s important to make sure that you have a good understanding of
their buying process. This includes knowing what types of products they are interested in, as well as the prices that
they are willing to pay. It’s also important to have a good understanding of the retailer’s branding and marketing
efforts. This will help you to create objects that are in line with their overall branding strategy.

5. Offer workshops: Offering workshops is a great way to monetize your metal-casting knowledge. When you
offer workshops, you can charge participants a fee to attend. This could be a one-time fee, or it could be a recurring
fee for participants who want to attend multiple workshops. When you offer workshops, you can also promote your
services as a metalcaster. This could help you to attract new clients and increase your income from your home
foundry hobby. You can also monetize your hobby by creating DIY videos, monetized online through YouTube or
Patreon. You also have the option to strike deals with brands for affiliate marketing or lead generation campaigns.

6. Collaborate with other foundry hobbyists: Another great way to monetize your metal-casting hobby is to
collaborate with other foundry hobbyists. This could include teaming up with fellow metalcasters on a new project
or reaching out to artists who need cast pieces for their creative projects. Working together on a new project can be
a great way to monetize your home foundry hobby. Not only will you be able to share your skills and knowledge
with others, but you’ll also be able to work on new and exciting projects together.

There is no limit to how you can monetize your metal-casting hobby. Let your imagination soar and, if you follow
it, you can make tons of money from your home foundry projects.

Chapter Eight: Tips for Successful Mold Preparation

Mold preparation is an important process in any foundry. Mold preparation is the act of assembling the mold,
which will be used to cast metal into a specific shape. Mold preparation can happen at home or in a professional
setting with an experienced team of professionals. Mold preparation is important because it determines how well
your metal casting will come out. If you are not satisfied with your results, then there is always room for
improvement.

Mold preparation is an art that starts before you even begin to work with your materials. There are many essential
parts to mold preparation; I will cover ten tips here, but there are many more that can be learned through
experience.

1. Always use a plan: A plan is essential when it comes to mold preparation, especially if you are doing it at home.
You need to have an idea of what you want your final product to look like and what materials you will need to
make it. This includes the type of metal you will be casting and the specific shape you are trying to create. Having a
plan is also important because it can help you save time and money.

2. Gather your materials: Once you have a plan in place, it is time to gather your materials. This includes the
metal you will be casting, the mold-making material, mold release agent, sandpaper, measuring tape, and a ruler.
Mold-making material is a specific type of foam that allows you to create an airtight seal when it is pressed against
the sand. A mold release agent is a thin layer that will be applied directly to the inside of your mold so that your
final product can easily be removed from its mold after casting. Sandpaper is used to smooth out the surface of your
mold and make it easier to work with.

3. Assemble your mold: This step is essential in order to create a successful mold. When assembling your mold, be
sure that all of the pieces fit together tightly. This will ensure that your metal casting comes out smooth and without
any defects.

4. Apply mold release: Before you begin to cast your metal, it is important to apply a coat of mold release to the
inside of your mold. This will help to ensure that your final product comes out easily and without any damage.

5. Mix your sand: Next, you will need to gather your sand. When making your mold, you will be using a mixture
of half coarse and half fine play sand. This mixture helps create an airtight seal between the mold-making material
and the sand inside of your mold.

6. Mold your product: Now that all of your materials are prepared, it is time to mold your product. Mold your
metal into the shape you have created and press the mold-making material over the top of your mold so that a tight
seal is formed. The mold-making foam creates an airtight seal to protect the sand from any moisture and allow you
to pour fluid metal all the way up to the edges of your mold.

7. Pour your metal: Once your mold is assembled and the mold release has been applied, it is time to pour your
metal. Be sure to use a ladle or funnel when pouring so that you do not spill any metal. Pour the metal all the way
up to the edges of your mold and allow it to cool.

Tips for Skimming the Slag

1. Know what is slag and what isn’t: First things first, you need to be able to identify the difference between good
stuff and bad stuff. Bad stuff is usually gray and looks like webs of dried-up slime. Good stuff will usually be black
but can also be light gray to dark brown. Another way to tell what is good and bad is to first focus on the core; if
molten metal fuses with slag, it’s probably not something you want to collect.

2. Watch the flux: Flux is a really important part of the smelting process, but it can also make things difficult when
skimming. It’s a good idea to watch how the flux behaves and flows. If it starts to move quickly and forms rivers,
that’s a sign that there isn’t much slag left.

3. Use the right tools: Having the right tools for the job is always important, and that goes for skimming slag too!
A metal detector can come in handy when trying to find good stuff among all the mess. Some other tools you might
find useful for skimming slag include hand sieves, hand tongs, and a bucket.

4. Stay safe: Skimming slag can be dangerous, especially if you’re not careful. If you decide to try skimming slag
by yourself, be sure that someone is nearby to help if things get out of hand. Whilst skimming slag is not dangerous
in the way that it can consume your body, it can still burn your skin or clothes. So, it’s best not to do this without
any gloves. Just think of skimming like a dangerous sport: you’ll be fine if you stay away from the edge of the
volcano.

5. Have patience: Skimming slag is not a quick process, but with a bit of practice it can be done fairly quickly.
Take your time and pay attention to what you’re doing and eventually you’ll get the hang of it.

6. Know when to stop skimming: If you've been skimming for a while and nothing has shown up yet, it’s probably
time to stop. Remember that the slag will usually sink into liquid metal at this point anyway so there isn’t much
point in skimming any longer. It might be a good idea to try again later when the slag is a bit thicker.

7. Experiment: Every foundry is different and will produce different types of slag, so it’s important to experiment
with different techniques until you find what works best for you.
8. Have fun: Skimming slag can be frustrating at times, but it’s also really fun to see the end result of all your hard
work. Take your time, stay safe, and have fun!
With these tips in mind, you should be able to successfully skim the slag and produce quality metal products.
Tips for Polishing the Final Product

After you have finished creating an item in the home foundry, it’s time to give it some aesthetic appeal. There are
many ways to polish metal products for this final step, including using automotive polishes, linseed oil, waxes, and
liquid metal cleaners. There are also other methods that involve using cloth or even plastic tubs with a solution of
hot water and dish soap.

The most important thing to remember when polishing your final product is to use the same motion consistently in
order to get a consistent shine. You may also want to try different methods and see which one gives you the best
results. In general, you will want to start with a coarse polish and work your way up to a finer polish.

When polishing your final product, it’s important to keep the following tips in mind:

● Use the same motion consistently to get a consistent shine.

● Start with a coarse polish and work your way up to a finer polish.
● Try different methods to see which one gives you the best results.
● Be careful not to rub too hard on sharp edges.
● Remember to clean the metal item before polishing.
● If needed, use a rag slightly dampened with water as the final polish. ● Use mineral spirits as a final step to
remove any excess residue and restore oil to

cast iron.
Here are additional tips if you who are planning to use automotive polishes on your items:

● Be sure to read the instructions carefully. In general, you will want to start with a coarse polish and work your
way up to a finer polish. Some polishes may require that you apply a wax or sealant after the polishing is complete
in order to protect the finish.

● If you are using linseed oil as a polish, remember that it may take a few days to see results. To apply, rub a small
amount of linseed oil onto the metal with a rag. Allow the product to dry and rub off the residue with another rag.
Continue until you achieve your desired shine or finish.

● Waxes can be used as an alternative to linseed oil. Apply wax to the metal project with a clean cloth. Once the
wax has dried, buff off any excess residue with another clean cloth.

● When using liquid metal cleaners as a polish, always start by prepping the surface of your item first. To do this,
mix two ounces of cleaner concentrate with one gallon of hot water in a plastic tub. Dip a clean rag into the solution
and wipe down your metal product to remove any debris or moisture. After doing this, you can then proceed to
polish using either a fine steel wool or rubbing compound.

Complete Guide to Filling the Mold

Pouring molten metal is one of the most dangerous jobs in the world. Pouring molten metal can be deadly if not
done correctly, but it’s necessary for many products, such as creating steel pipes and wire mesh. A resource I
recommend is Pouring Molten Metal: Complete Guide to Filling The Mold by author David J. Kowalski. This book
will teach you everything you need to know about pouring molten metals into molds safely and efficiently while
protecting yourself from injury or death.

If you’re going to be pouring steel, you can use a drill to add holes in the steel before it cools so that the air bubbles
can release. There are different kinds of metal and different kinds of smelters, so make sure to follow specific
instructions for how to handle the type you are using. Pouring molten aluminum can be a bit more difficult because
the metal is so light and it’s easy to spill. Pouring molten lead is even more dangerous, as it’s a very heavy metal.
You’ll want to use a ladle to pour lead into a mold, making sure that you don’t spill any of the hot liquid.

Make sure that you have the right tools for the job. You’ll need a furnace, tongs, a hammer, a chisel, and a bucket of
water. The furnace will heat up the metal to its molten state, and the tongs will be used to hold the metal while it’s
being poured. The hammer and chisel can be used to break the mold if necessary, and the bucket of water can be
used to cool down the metal if it’s too hot. Here are a few tips to help you fill the mold successfully:
● Wear proper safety gear, including a face shield, gloves, and an apron. ● Make sure the mold is clean and free of
debris before pouring.
● Use a ladle or other pouring tool to pour the metal into the mold.
● Be careful not to splash the molten metal on yourself or anyone else. ● Pouring molten metal is hard work, so be
sure to stretch before starting the job.

Pouring molten metal can be a dangerous job, but with the proper precautions, you can do it safely.
Guide to Venting the Mold

Venting in metal casting means allowing the gases that are created during the casting process to escape from the
mold. This is important because it prevents the mold from becoming damaged and allows for a better cast. Venting
the mold is an important step that needs to be taken before any casting operation begins because it allows you to
produce higher-quality parts and keep them free of defects. Follow these venting tips to achieve better metal casting
results:
1. Vent the mold before each casting operation.

2. Make sure that the vents are clear and open.

3. Don’t forget to vent the sprue and runner systems.
4. Vent the mold in a well-ventilated area.
5. Monitor the progress of the casting process and adjust the vents as necessary.
6. Vent the mold after the casting operation is complete.
7. Keep the mold clean and free of debris.
8. Use the right type of venting system for your project.
9. Learn how to use the proper venting tools and equipment.
10.Keep all vents at least six inches away from any open flames or other sources of ignition.

Venting the mold before each casting operation is a necessary step to take when metal casting. If you don’t do this,
it can lead to many different issues that will make your castings look inferior and have defects, such as bubbles or
shrinkage. Venting also prevents any damage from occurring on the inside of the mold, which means there’s less of
a chance for breakage occuring during production. Additionally, vents should always be clear and open without any
debris blocking them so they can do their job properly—this includes making sure that all vents are at least six
inches away from sources of ignition like an open flame or other heat source. If not, you could cause a fire, which
would ruin your entire project!

Chapter Nine: Patternmaking for Home Foundry

A pattern is essentially a replica of the object you want to cast. Metal-casting patterns are used to make replicated
casts of the original object. These are important because they allow for the creation of many duplicates at once at
minimal cost. Metal-casting patterns also ensure perfect copies every time. Metal-casting patternmaking is an
essential process in molding and modeling that leads to metal castings.

There are several reasons why patternmaking is so important for metal-casting projects. First, it ensures that perfect
replicas can be created every time. Metal-casting patterns also help to keep the cost of producing multiple
duplicates as low as possible. Furthermore, patternmaking is essential for creating molds that will yield high-quality
metal castings. In short, patternmaking is a critical step in the metal-casting process that should not be overlooked.

Factors to Consider When Making Patterns

When it comes to making metal-casting patterns, there are a few things to keep in mind.

● Ensure that the pattern is an accurate representation of the final object: This is important because it will
affect the quality of the metal casting. If the pattern is not accurate, the metal casting will also be inaccurate.
Furthermore, it is important to have an accurate pattern so that the metal casting can be duplicated perfectly. You
can ensure that the pattern accurate by doing a full-size drawing of the object and transferring it. Doing this will
take care of perspective as well as proportion issues. If there’s still something off, make adjustments as needed.

The other way to ensure accuracy is to do a full-size mockup. The mockup can be done with cardboard and papier-
mâché. It is important to get the sizing and proportions correct before moving on to the final pattern.

● Create a pattern that can easily be reproduced: A good pattern should be easy to reproduce. This will help to
keep the cost of making multiple duplicates as low as possible. It is also helpful if the pattern can be easily modified
so that different versions of the same object can be created. There are a few ways to do this. One is to use a standard
pattern, such as a cube or cylinder. These shapes are easy to modify and can be used to create a variety of objects.
Another way is to use a slush-casting method. This method uses a simple container to create the pattern. The
container can be easily filled with a slushy mixture of sand and water. When the mixture hardens, it will form a
pattern that can be used for metal casting.

● Take into account the size and shape of the metal-casting die: The size and shape of the metal-casting die will
impact how a pattern can be made. Metal-casting dies, also known as the flask, come in many shapes and sizes. It’s
important to take this into account when making patterns because it will make the process easier. The size and
shape of the die will affect how much reinforcement is needed. In addition, it is important to make sure that the
pattern can easily be removed from the die. There are a few ways to do this. One is to use a standard pattern like
that of a cube or cylinder, as these shapes can easily be modified to fit most die sizes and shapes. Another way is to
use a modular pattern. This type of pattern can be easily modified to fit the needs of any project.

● Include appropriate reinforcement: A good pattern should include appropriate reinforcement so that it can
withstand the pressure of the metal-casting process. Metal castings have a relatively high pressure when compared
to other casting processes, like slip casting. In addition, the pattern should have enough resistance so that it can be
reused many times. There are a few ways to add reinforcement to a pattern. One is to use support ribs around the
outside of the pattern. Metal castings don’t form well on thin surfaces, so the ribs will help to add strength. Another
way to reinforce a pattern is by using a sprue and runner system. This type of system helps to distribute the pressure
of the metal casting evenly across the pattern. It also makes it easier to remove the casting from the pattern.

● Make sure that the pattern can easily be removed from the metal-casting die: This will help to reduce the
amount of damage that is done to the pattern. In addition, it will make it easier to clean the die between castings.
There are a few ways to ensure this. One way is to use a pattern that is made of soft material. This type of pattern
will deform when it is removed, which will help to break the seal between the pattern and the die. Another method
is to use a release agent. A release agent is a substance that is applied to the pattern before it is cast. This will help
to reduce the amount of friction between the two surfaces.

● Create a pattern that is easy to transport: This will make it easier to move the pattern from the workshop to
the foundry. Metal castings require a lot of heat and it is important that the pattern can stand up to this type of
extreme environment. There are a few things to keep in mind when thinking about ease of transport. One is to make
sure that the pattern fits easily into most transportation containers. Another way to make it easier is to use a modular
pattern. This type of pattern can be easily broken down into smaller parts.

Types of Patterns
There are a few different types of patterns you can use when making a pattern for your home foundry. The type of
pattern will depend on the needs of the project.

1. Metal-Casting Patterns: These patterns work well for projects that have a large surface area or need
reinforcement because metal castings have a higher pressure than other kinds of metals. Metal castings also need to
withstand high temperatures, so it’s important to make sure that these patterns can stand up to this type of
environment and not be damaged in any way. Metal-casting patterns should also include appropriate reinforcement,
such as support ribs and sprue and runner systems, to make them easier to transport and use.

2. Slip-Casting Patterns: Slip-casting patterns are used when casting objects with a delicate surface. These patterns
are often made out of a plaster-like material and they need to be easy to remove from the casting die. Slip-casting
patterns can be reinforced by using a support rib system or a sprue and runner system.

3. Sand-Casting Patterns: Sand-casting patterns are used when casting objects with a rough surface. These
patterns are often made out of a sand-like material and they need to be easy to remove from the casting die. Sand-
casting patterns can be reinforced by using a support rib system or a sprue and runner system (StudentLesson, n.d.).

4. Investment Casting Patterns: Investment casting patterns are used when making parts out of metal. These types
of patterns are often made out of aluminum, steel, or copper and they need to be easy to remove from the die.
Investment casting patterns can be reinforced by using a support rib system or a sprue and runner system.

Patternmaking Materials
Metal patterns can be made out of:

● Metal: Metal patterns will need to withstand high temperatures and pressure and should also include
reinforcement, such as support ribs and sprue and runner systems.
● Plaster: Plaster patterns are easy to remove from the casting die and are often used for slip-casting patterns.
● Sand: Sand patterns can be easily removed from the casting die and work well for sand-casting patterns.
● Plastic: Plastic patterns are easy to remove from the casting die and don’t damage easily.
● Foam: Foam patterns are easy to remove from the casting die, but they do sometimes get a little damaged when
used for a certain projects.

How to Make Metal-Casting Patterns

Here is a simple guide to making your patterns:

1. Sketch the Part: The first step in making a metal-casting pattern is to sketch the part on paper. This will help to
give you an idea of what the part will look like and how it will be oriented in the casting die.

2. Check the Size: Make sure that the sketch of the part is to scale. This will ensure that the pattern is the correct
size and that it will fit into the casting die correctly.

3. Mark the Parting Lines: The parting line is where the pattern will be cut apart from the casting die. It’s
important to mark these lines on the sketch so that they can easily be transferred to the pattern.

4. Scale the Sketch: Make sure that the sketch of the part is to scale so that it will be easy for you to use when
transferring measurements onto the pattern.
5. Transfer Parting Lines onto Metal Sheet: Once you’ve made your sketch, transfer each point on each parting
line onto a metal sheet using a scribe.
6. Cut Metal Sheet: Using metal snips, cut along the lines that you’ve drawn on your pattern to create two separate
pieces (front and back).
7. Drill Holes: Drill holes for any dowel pins or other features on each piece of the pattern if they are required for
the casting project.
8. Assemble Pattern: Assemble the pattern using metal screws and washers.
9. Check the Fit: Make sure that the assembled pattern fits into the casting die correctly.
10.File Edges: File down any sharp edges on the pattern so that it is safe to use.
11. Wax Pattern: Apply a layer of wax to the pattern.
12. Polish Wax: Polish the waxed pattern with steel wool to give it a smooth finish.
Maintenance, Care, and Repair of Metal-Casting Patterns
Metal-casting patterns will need to be maintained and cared for in order to ensure that they last for multiple
projects. Here are a few tips for caring for your patterns:

● Clean the pattern with a damp cloth and dry it off immediately.
● Do not use any harsh chemicals or solvents on the pattern, as this may damage it. ● If the pattern becomes
damaged, it can be repaired by using a metal file to smooth

out the edges.

● Store the pattern in a safe place when it is not in use.
● Make a copy of the pattern before starting any project in case the original is

damaged or lost.

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