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 Another Random Document on
Scribd Without Any Related Topics
 Fig. 102.—
Fig. 101.— Small Fid
The Loop. and Loop.
Fig. 100.—
Hammock
Needle.

One pound of Macremé cord number twenty-four, or hammock

twine of the same number, which can be had for less than thirty
cents; colored cord comes five cents extra.
Wind the cord in balls, as it is then more convenient to handle,
and begin making your hammock. First, thread the needle by taking
it in the left hand and using the thumb to hold the end of the cord in
place, while looping it over the tongue (Fig. 100); pass the cord
down under the needle to the opposite side and catch it over the
tongue; repeat this until the needle is full.
 Next, make a loop of a piece of cord two
yards long and fasten this to any suitable
place (Fig. 101)—a door-knob will do very
well; then tie the cord on your needle three
inches from the end to this loop. Place the
small fid under the cord, the bevelled edge
close to the loop (Fig. 102). With your
thumb on the cord to hold it in place while
you pass the needle around the fid, and
with its point toward you, pass it through
the loop from the top, bringing it over the
fid, so forming the first half of the knot (Fig.
103). Pull this taut, holding it in place with
your thumb while throwing the cord over
your hand, which forms the loop as in (Fig.
104). Then pass the needle from under
Fig. 106.—Meshes.
through the loops, drawing it tight to fasten
the knot. Hold it in place with your thumb,
and repeat the operation for the next knot. Fig. 105 shows a number
of these knots finished. A is a loosened knot, making plain its
construction. B, in Figs. 103, 104, and 105, is the cord running to
the needle, and D is the fid. When thirty meshes are finished shove
them off the fid (Fig. 106), as this number will make the hammock
sufficiently wide.
Commence the next row by again
placing the fid under the cord, and take
up the first mesh, drawing it close to the
fid; hold it in place with your thumb while
throwing the cord over your hand; pass
the needle on the left hand-side of the
mesh from under through the loop
thrown over your hand (Fig. 107); pull
this tight and you will have tied the
common knitting-knot; proceed in like
manner with all the loops in rotation until
the row is finished. When it is necessary Fig. 107.—Commencing
to thread or fill your needle, tie the ends the Second Row.
of the cord with the fisherman’s knot
shown in Fig. 108, which cannot slip when properly tightened. Wrap
each end of the cord from the knot securely to the main cord with
strong thread to give a neat appearance to the hammock.
Continue knitting until
thirty rows are finished.
Then use the large fid,
knitting one row on the
short side first, next one
on the long side. This
Fig. 108.—Fisherman’s Knot. accomplished, knit the
meshes to the ring by
passing the needle through it from the top, knitting them to the ring
in rotation as if they were on the mesh-stick or fid (Fig. 109). When
finished tie the string securely to the ring, and one end of your
hammock is finished.
 Cut the loop on which the first row was
knitted, and draw it through the knots. Tie the
end of the cord on your needle to the same
piece used in fastening the end of the first
needleful to the loop (Fig. 110), and knit the
long meshes to the other ring as described.
This completed, the hammock is finished.
To swing it, secure two
pieces of strong rope and
fasten them firmly to the iron
rings, the length of the rope
depending upon the space
between the two points from
which you wish it to hang.
These should be if possible
twelve or fifteen feet apart and
at least ten feet high, to give
your hammock sufficient room
to swing freely.
This suspended bed will
furnish a welcome retreat when
On the Ring. the weather is too warm to
admit of games, walks, or other
amusements. Then, with some favorite book, or if
even reading is too much of an exertion, simply to lie
indolently in the hammock is a comfort, so restful
and quiet that the time quickly passes, and we are
made better and brighter for our short, passive repose.
Very decorative nets, and useful ones of many kinds, including
fish-nets and minnow-seines, are made with the same stitch as that
used in the hammock. The size of the mesh is regulated by the
circumference of the fid, and the twine used is fine or coarse,
according to the style of net desired.
 Barrel Hammock.
When in
the Catskills
last summer
the writer
saw for the
first time a
hammock
made of a
barrel. It
was painted
red and
looked very
cheery and
inviting
hanging
under the
green
boughs; the two colors, being
complementary, harmonized beautifully.
This hammock was made of a
piece of strong rope twenty feet
long threaded in and out of barrel
staves, and was substantial and
durable. The construction of such
a hammock is very simple.
Remove the top and bottom
hoops and nails from a firm,
clean barrel. Then before taking
off the remaining hoops draw a
pencil-line around both ends of the barrel, being careful to have the
marking three inches from and parallel to the edges; this is for a
guide when making the two holes in each end of all the staves. Bore
the holes with a five-eighth of an inch augur or a red-hot poker,
using the pencil-line as a centre; leave an equal margin on both
sides of the staves, and at the same time enough space in the
centre to preclude all danger of breakage.
Fasten the staves together by threading the rope through the hole
from the out side of the first stave, then across the inside of the
stave down through the other hole (see illustration). Continue
threading until one side is finished, then in like manner thread the
other side. Knock off the remaining hoops and the staves will appear
as shown at bottom of illustration. Tie the two ends of the rope
together and fasten loops of rope on both ends; these should be of
sufficient length to conveniently swing the hammock. When
threading the staves let the rope be loose enough to leave a space
of an inch or so between each stave when the barrel is spread out in
the form of a hammock.
In this way you can have a serviceable hammock, the cost of
which will be about twenty-five cents and a little labor.
Grandmamma’s Dolls.
 CHAPTER XV.
(FOR LITTLE GIRLS.)

CORN-HUSK AND FLOWER DOLLS.

O such beautiful dolls as

delight the hearts of the
children of to-day, ever
peeped forth from the
Christmas-stockings of
our grandmothers or
great-grandmothers
when they were little
girls. In those times
there were not, as there
are now, thousands of
people doing nothing
but making toys for the entertainment and pleasure of
the little ones, and the motherly little hearts were fain
Head
to content themselves with lavishing unlimited Commenced.
affection and care upon a rag, wooden, or corn-husk
baby, made and dressed at home. Since then almost
every child tired of, and surfeited with handsome and expensive
toys, has been glad at times to get grandma to make for her a real
old-fashioned dollie which might be hugged in rapturous moments of
affection without fear of dislocating some of its numerous joints, or
putting out of order its speaking or crying apparatus; and might in
times of forgetfulness be dropped on the floor and suffer no injury
thereby. Such a doll is just the kind to adopt for the summer. The
fine French doll with its delicate wax or china face, silky hair, and
dainty toilets, is more suited to the elegances of the parlor than to
the wear and tear of out-door life, and everyone knows that summer
holidays spent in the country are far too precious to be wasted
taking care of anyone’s complexion, let alone a doll’s; so it is best to
leave the city doll in her city home, safe out of harm’s way, and
manufacture, from materials to be found in the country, one more
suited to country surroundings.
Corn-husks, corn-cobs, and ordinary garden
flowers can be made into dolls which, although
not quite so pretty nor so shapely as those
produced from more costly material, yet possess
a charm of their own which the children are not
slow to perceive.
Little Indian girls, to whom store babies are
unknown, make the most complete and durable
corn-husk dolls, and the following directions tell
just how to construct them:
Provide yourself with the husks of several
large ears of corn, and from among them select
the soft white ones which grow closest to the
ear. Place the stiff ends of two husks together,
fold a long, soft husk in a lengthwise strip, and
The Corn Husk.
wind it around the ends so placed as in Fig. 111.
Select the softest and widest husk you can find,
fold it across the centre and place a piece of strong thread through it
(as in Fig. 112), draw it in, tie it securely (Fig. 113), place it entirely
over the husks you have wound, then bring it down smoothly and tie
with thread underneath (Fig. 114); this will form the head and neck.
To make the arms, divide the husks below the neck in two equal
parts, fold together two or more husks and insert them in the
division (Fig. 115). Hold the arms in place with one hand, while with
the other you fold alternately over each shoulder several layers of
husks, allowing them to extend down the front and back. When the
little form seems plump enough, use your best husks for the
topmost layers and wrap the waist with strong thread, tying it
securely (Fig. 116). Next divide the husks below the waist and make
the legs by neatly wrapping each portion with thread, trimming them
off evenly at the feet. Finally, twist the arms once or twice, tie, and
trim them off at the hands. The features can be drawn on the face
with pen and ink, or may be formed of small thorns from the rose-
bush. Fig. 117 shows the doll complete, minus its costume, which
may be of almost any style or material, from the pretty robe of a
civilized lady to the more scanty garments of its originator, the
Indian. The doll is represented in full Indian costume in Fig. 118.
The war-paint and tomahawk are not necessary here, as he is
smoking a pipe of peace. His apparel is composed of one garment,
which is cut from a broad, soft corn-husk, after the pattern given in
Fig. 119. A narrow strip of husk tied about his waist forms the belt.

Corn-husk
Tied. Head
Head and Arms. Finished.
 His head-dress is made of small chicken feathers stuck at regular
intervals into a strip of husk. The corn-silk hair is placed on his head,
and on top of that one end of the head-dress is fastened with a
thorn.

Finished Doll.
Head, Arms, and Body.

A small twig is used for the stem of his pipe, and two rose-bush
thorns form the bowl. Instead of using a thorn for his mouth, a
round hole is punched in the face and the stem of the pipe inserted.
 The Indian’s
A Real Indian Doll. Dress.

Mary Jane.
Here is another way of making a doll which is very easy and
simple. First find a young ear of corn, one on which the silk has not
turned brown; then with a crab-apple for a head and a leaf of the
corn to dress her with, you have your material. Cut off squarely that
end of the ear where the husks are puckered, to join the stalk, and
carefully take the silk from the other end, disturbing as little as
possible the closely wrapped husks.
Roll part of the leaf (as indicated in Fig. 120) for the arms, then
with a small twig fasten the head to the arms; stick the other end of
the twig into the small end of the corn-cob, and the doll is ready for
dressing. Her bonnet is made of the leaf just where it joins the stalk
(Fig. 121), and is fastened to her head with a thorn. Before
adjusting the bonnet, however, the silk must be placed on the head
to form the hair.
 Mary Jane.
Material and Parts of Doll.

Make the scarf of part of the leaf (Fig. 122), fold it around the
shoulders, and secure it with thorns.
The features also are made of thorns.
When her toilet is complete, you can but acknowledge that this
rosy-cheeked little maid, peeping from beneath her poke-bonnet, is
very cunning indeed.

Flower Dolls.
 The flower lady with the baby is made of a yellow gourd flower;
the small gourd attached, which has just begun to form, serves for
her head; a green gourd leaf is used for her shawl, and her bonnet
is made of a smaller leaf folded to fit her head. The baby is a white
gourd bud, with a cap made of a leaf. A small twig stuck through
part of the lady’s shawl, through the baby, and into the lady doll,
holds the child in place and makes it appear as though clasped in
the mother’s arms.
The features of both dolls are scratched on with a pin and then
inked. To make the lady stand erect, a small twig is stuck into the
heart of the flower, and the other end into the top of a small paste-
board-box lid.
The other flower doll is made of the common garden flowers. The
underskirt is a petunia; a Canterbury-bell forms the over-skirt and
waist; small twigs, or broom-straws stuck through buds of the phlox,
are the arms, and the head is a daisy with the petals cut off to look
like a bonnet. The features are made with pen and ink on the yellow
centre. A reversed daisy forms the parasol.
If the flowers named are not at hand, those of a similar shape will
answer just as well.
Gaily dressed little ladies can be made of the brilliantly tinted
hollyhocks, and many other flowers can also be transformed into
these pretty though perishable dolls.
 CHAPTER XVI.
HOW TO MAKE A FAN.

“That graceful toy whose moving play

With gentle gales relieves the sultry day.”

FAN is only a pretty trifle, yet it has

been made rather an important one.
To manage a fan gracefully was some
time ago considered very essential by
fair dames of society, and in the
dainty hand of many a famous
beauty it has played a conspicuous
part. Queen Elizabeth regarded it with so much favor that she was
called the “Patron of Fans,” and she made a rule that no present
save a fan should be accepted by English queens from their
subjects.
Although held in such high esteem, it is only since the influx of
any and every thing Japanese that we have had fans in such
profusion, and have discovered how effective they are when used for
decorative purposes.
A brilliantly tinted fan is of equal value in giving just the right
touch of color to a costume or the decorations of a room, and this
chapter will show how the girls can make the fans themselves, and
have for use or for the adornment of their rooms those of various
shapes, sizes, and colors. The first fan represented here is made in
the form of a butterfly.
The principal articles
necessary for its
manufacture are a strip of
smooth, brown wrapping-
paper, stiff enough to keep
its folds, and two sticks for
handles. The ribbon which,
in the illustration, ties the
handles together looks
pretty, but is not
indispensable; an elastic
band, or one made of
narrow ribbon, slipped
over the sticks will do as
well.
The paper must be
twenty-eight inches long
and five and one-half
inches wide. In order to
fold it evenly it should be
ruled across with lines
one-half inch apart, as
shown in diagram of
butterfly (page 179). Butterfly Fan.
When the paper is
prepared the pattern can be copied from the diagram, which is half
of the butterfly. By counting the lines and using them as guides for
obtaining the proportions, an exact reproduction of this pattern can
be made. The outlines being drawn, the paper must be plaited, one
fold on top of another, until twenty-seven plaits have been laid.
Smoothing out the paper again, the butterfly should be painted with
water-colors in flat, even tints.
 The
lower
part of
diagram
is the
body of
the
insect
and is of
a light-
Diagram of One-half of Butterfly Fan brown
color, also the space just below the head,
which is surrounded by a strip of black.

Folded Fans.

Handle.

The head and eyes are black, the eyes having a half-circle of
white to separate them from the head. The main part of the wings
are a brownish purple, next to which comes a border of very dark
purple with light-blue spots. The outer border is light yellow. When
the paint is quite dry the extra paper at the top of the butterfly is to
be cut away. Again the fan must be plaited in the folds already
formed, and the plaits fastened together at one end with a strong
needle and thread, as shown in diagram (Fig. 123). Fig. 124 shows
the shape of the handles, two of which are required; they should be
about nine inches long, one-third of an inch wide, and one-eighth of
an inch thick. A handle must be glued to the last fold at each end of
the fan (see Fig. 125). The fan should be kept closed until the glue
is dry, when it may be opened and used at pleasure.

Our next sketch is that of the Mikado fan, and represents a

Japanese lady who, with her fan held aloft, is making a bowing
salutation.
This fan is made of the same paper as that used for the butterfly,
and is cut the same width; there are, however, twenty-nine plaits
instead of twenty-seven, as in the other. The diagram gives the
pattern in two parts, and the colors it is to be painted; the face and
hands should be of a flesh-tint and the features done with black in
outline. The directions for putting together the butterfly apply as
well to the Mikado fan.

Pattern of Mikado Fan.

The third illustration shows a fan made in the shape of a daisy.

Diagram on page 183 shows a section of the pattern.
White paper should be used, and it must be laid in thirty-four
plaits, which will give the flower fifteen whole and two half petals,
the half petals being at each end.
The tinted part of pattern indicates where it is painted yellow to
form the centre of the daisy.
For a plain round fan no pattern is needed. It is made simply of a
strip of paper, of the width used for the other fans, and has about
thirty plaits. When fans of
this kind are made of
colored paper in solid tints
they are very pretty. Pieces
of bright, figured wall-
paper left from papering a
room can be utilized, and
quite effective fans be
made of them to use for
decoration.
Another style of fan is
represented in our last
illustration. It is made of
twenty slats of cardboard
cut after pattern Fig. 126.
These slats are joined
together at the top and
centre with narrow ribbon
passed through the slits
cut for it, as shown in Fig.
127. Over the ribbon where
it passes through the top
slits, on the wrong side of
the fan, square pieces of Daisy Fan.
paper are pasted, which
hold the ribbon down securely at these points. The paper is pasted
only at each end of the ribbon in the middle row. It is best to leave
one end of this ribbon loose until the fan is joined at the bottom;
then opening the fan, and drawing the ribbon until it fits the fan
smoothly, it can be cut the right length and the loose end fastened
down. A ribbon is also used to hold the slats together at the bottom;
a bow at each side keeps them in place (see Fig. 128). When a large
fan for decoration is desired, the slats should be about eighteen
inches long, two and a half inches wide at the top, and one and a
half inch wide at the bottom. The fan may be larger still, in which
 case it can be used as a
screen to set before an empty
fire-place. For this purpose
the slats have to be two feet
long, four inches wide at the
top, and two and a half inches
wide at the bottom.
The proportions of the
slats for a small hand-fan are
eight and a half inches long,
Pattern for Daisy Fan. one and a half inch wide at
the top, and one inch wide at
the bottom. The large fans
should be made of heavier
cardboard or pasteboard than
that used for smaller ones.
Colored cardboard, which can
be bought at almost any
stationer’s, is the best to use,
but the slats of ordinary white
cardboard may be covered with
colored paper if more
convenient.
Construction of Cardboard Fan.
These fans may be varied to
suit the taste of the girls who make them. Instead of a solid color,
one can be made with alternate slats of red and white, blue and
yellow, or any other colors that harmonize. Another may show all the
tints of the rainbow, and for use on the Fourth of July one might
display the red, white, and blue.
Some will look especially handsome if prettily painted. A dark-red
fan with a branch of dogwood-blossoms painted across it makes a
charming wall decoration, as does also one of light blue with pine-
branch and cone painted in brown or black.
 A gilt fan lightens up a
dusky corner beautifully; it
can be curved around to fit
the place, and catching and
reflecting the light at all
angles, as it does, it is quite
effective.

Cardboard Fan
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