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 Another Random Document on
Scribd Without Any Related Topics
 “How does he get out of the case?” inquired Tom.
“Easily enough. Look at the strong pair of pincers he has got for
cutting his way through the silken grating with. No longer burdened
with his heavy case, he floats up to the surface. He crawls up out of
the water into the air.
“If there are no rushes or floating leaves about, he is sure to
drown; for your caddis is no longer a water insect, but a fly inside a
thin skin.
“Now, boys, I am going to show you something wonderful.”
Uncle George then took out the three living pupæ that were
floating on the water, and placed them on the table. The boys
watched them for a long time.
They were beginning to get impatient, when suddenly the skin of
one of the creatures burst along the back, and a lovely little fly, with
brown, gauzy wings and long feelers, came out.
After airing its wings for about a minute, it flew to the window.
The other two acted in just the same way.
“Now, my dear boys, I think you know something about the life
of the caddis fly. For a whole year of his life he is a crawling water
insect, then, for about a single day, he is a lively fly.”
“How does the caddis larva first get into the water?” asked Frank.
“As an egg, Frank. The female caddis fly lays her eggs in the
water. She sometimes even crawls down right into the water to lay
them.
“A tiny caddis grub, no bigger than this pin-head, comes 94
out of each egg. As soon as he hatches out, he begins to build
his case, to eat, and to grow; and from the moment of his birth up
to the closing up of his tube, he is scarcely a moment idle.”

Exercises on Lesson XIV.

1. Turn a caddis worm out of his case in the way described in the lesson. Place the
insect in a saucer half filled with water, and make a rough sketch of it.
2. When you have finished your sketch, place the empty caddis case in the saucer,
and watch how the creature gets into it.
3. Make two columns by drawing a line down the centre of a page of your note-
book. In the first column, describe the structure of the caddis larva and fly;
in the second, that of the cabbage caterpillar and butterfly. Compare them.
4. In the same way describe the mode of life of the caddis fly (Column 1), and of
the white butterfly (Column 2).

95
 APPENDIX.
HINTS TO TEACHERS.

BUDS.—Twigs of beech, horse-chestnut, lilac, and hawthorn

ought to be taken in in December and placed in water. They should
have as much warmth and light as possible.
Willow twigs (for catkins) might also be forced in this way.
SEEDS.—Seeds should be soaked for twenty-four hours and then
sown in sawdust in boxes 4 inches deep. They should be sown in
presence of the pupils.
In winter these boxes should be kept on the hot pipes in school.
The sawdust should not be allowed to get dry, neither should it be
deluged with water, but kept evenly moist if possible.
Be careful to use water not colder than the temperature of the
room in which the seeds are grown. Nothing checks growth more
effectively than chilling with icy-cold water. It is a good plan to keep
the watering-pan full of water near the hot pipes, refilling it always
after use.
Seeds germinate best in the dark, but whenever the plumule
shows above the sawdust, the box containing them should be placed
in the light. Sufficient seeds should be sown at one time to supply a
plant to each pupil once a week for at least four weeks. A number of
seeds or plants should be dug up once a week and sketched by the
children. Each sketch should be compared with that of the previous
week, and all changes duly noted down.
The best seeds to grow are:—Broad bean, common or “large
white” maize, runner bean (“Painted Lady”), French bean, kitchen
pea (“Stratagem”), and white mustard.
 A few seeds of white mustard should be sprinkled on a small
piece of moist blotting-paper, and covered over by a small glass bell-
jar or an inverted tumbler. In less than a week the root-hairs may be
seen.
If hot-water pipes are available, the following seeds should be
grown, as their germination is interesting:—date stones, walnuts,
chestnuts, almonds, cherry stones, orange pips, seeds of cucumber
and sunflower.
After maize and bean (or pea) plants have reached the height of
5 inches, they should be transferred to bottles of tap water—as
described at the end of Lesson VI.—and the continuous growth
sketched and noted from week to week.
POND AND DITCH HUNTING.—Make a ring of stout brass
wire about 8 or 10 inches in diameter, and to this attach a bag net
made of mosquito netting not more than 9 inches deep. In making
the wire ring, leave attached to it about 5 inches of the twisted ends
of the wire. Such a net as this can be easily carried and quickly
attached to the end of a walking-stick by means of a piece of string.
The best “finds” are often made by sweeping the net under
banks and among pond weeds.
FROG SPAWN.—Frog spawn is abundant in ponds and ditches
everywhere in March. It should be kept immersed in as much water
as possible in a large vessel, preferably of glass. Whenever the water
show signs of fouling, it should be changed; but, as changing water
containing tadpoles is somewhat difficult, the fewer changes the
better.
As in the case of seed growing, the development of the tadpole
should be learnt by weekly sketches and notes.
NEWTS.—Newts can be taken with the gauze-net or in the
following way:—Tie a piece of small worm on to the end of a cotton
thread fastened to the end of a willow or hazel switch. Cast 96
into the part of the pond where the newts are, and await
results.
Live newts, fish, frog spawn, etc., may be obtained from Messrs
Willson, Live Stock Providers, 37 New Oxford Street, London;
Thomas Bolton, 25 Balsall Heath Road, Birmingham, and other
dealers. Newts should be fed once a day on pieces of small worms.
CATERPILLARS.—Caterpillars and pupæ, if not obtainable in
local woods, fields, and gardens, can be had from Messrs Watkins &
Doncaster, 36 Strand, London, and others.
CADDIS LARVÆ.—Caddis worms are to be found in almost
every stream, pond, and ditch. Most of them are vegetable feeders:
therefore a plentiful supply of water weeds should be placed in their
tank. Carnivorous caddis worms may be fed on small pieces of raw
meat. (See Stickle-backs.)
STICKLE-BACKS.—Stickle-backs are common in canals and
streams. They are easily caught with the net. They should be fed
once a day on grated biscuit, and occasionally on raw meat. The
meat should be chopped very fine, and then pressed through a piece
of perforated zinc. Very little food suffices. If too much is put in, the
residue should be removed by means of a glass tube, as described in
Lesson IX., p. 56. If no green water plants are obtainable, the water
should be changed at least every second day by means of a siphon.
Once a month is quite often enough if sufficient green plants are
kept in the tank and decaying matter carefully removed. Do not
over-stock—few fishes and much water is the rule.
WATER PLANTS.—It is best to take the water plants which are
found growing locally. The following are fairly common:—Elodea
canadensis, water millfoil; Potamogeton (nitens, crispus, or
filiformis), “water soldier”; Vallisneria spiralis, Chara, Nitella, water
star-wort and watercress. A good selection of excellent aquarium
plants are advertised at a cheap rate by the Solway Fishery Co.,
Dumfries. Water plants, if not rooted in the tank, should be renewed
occasionally.
LARVÆ CAGE.—Take four square pieces (about 1½ inches
square) of wood, each a foot long, and nail or screw them upright
into the four corners of a square piece of ¾-inch deal measuring a
foot each way. Stretch mosquito netting over sides, end, and top,
arranging that one side can be opened. This can be managed by
fastening the last fold of netting to one of the upright posts by three
drawing-pins. Fresh leaves should be supplied daily. For those
caterpillars which pupate in the soil, a shallow earthenware flower-
pot—known in the trade as a “seed-pan”—should be supplied. The
seed-pan should be filled with soil, the pupæ placed on the surface,
and a layer of moss placed over them. Once a week the moss should
be dipped in water, squeezed almost dry, and replaced on the pupæ.
AQUARIUM.—Procure from a local florist or seedsman what is
known as a “propagating bell.” These cost from 1s. up to 2s. 6d. A
block of wood 12 inches square and 4 or 5 inches in thickness is also
required. Bore a hole about 2 inches in diameter right through the
centre of the block, to hold the knob of the bell. Then, with a gouge
chisel, make a saucer-shaped hollow round the hole, to roughly fit
the rounded end of the bell. Before fitting the bell into the block,
interpose a thin layer of moss.
This makes an excellent aquarium—elegant and serviceable.
Keep the aquarium in a window, but shade it from bright sunlight.
 Transcriber’s Notes

Retained publication information from the printed exemplar (this

eBook is in the public domain in the country of publication.)
Only in the text versions, delimited italicized text with
_underscores_.
Silently corrected several typos.
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