Be a Better Cook

THE ULTIMATE BBQ BURGER • JUICY JERK CHICKEN • BRIGHT BANGLADESHI FLAVOURS

ON SALE 1-31 JULY 2025 £6.99 • deliciousmagazine.co.uk

Sunny
days
From confit tuna
and tomatoes
to potato and
pasta salads
for every
occasion

&
• Tom Kerridge’s BBQ salmon
• Fruity summer crumbles
• Emily English’s quick dinners
• Greek island feasting
MAKE GOOD FOOD

Find us in the Table Sauces & Condiments aisle

Discover the rest of the range at: @newmansownuk Newman’s Own UK
 welcome.

very few years a survey claims we Brits are stuck

in a recipe rut, cooking the same six or so dishes
week after week. Now, as you’re here with us, it’s
unlikely you share that problem – after all, we’ve
cooked some 10,000 recipes together over the past
22 years. And yet… when it comes to salad, I can’t
be the only one who defaults to the same dressing
over the same chopped veg. I might mix things up
occasionally with crumbled feta. I may throw in a
pulse or two. But when I want something fresh and
quick, my creativity seems to be found wanting.
Well, the team have done it again. They’ve created 10 new salads (p88) to keep
you inspired, refreshed and well fed this summer. We have it all: pasta salads
Laura Rowe
you can pop out at a picnic; a protein-packed number to keep you sustained over
Editorial director, delicious.
Follow me on Instagram a long day; a simple new way to serve seasonal tomatoes; and a showstopping
@lauraroweeats salad with cheese and ham you could serve to guests. And as if that weren’t
enough inspo, do make sure you’re signed up to our newsletter and follow us on
social, as we’ll be curating a whopping 30 salads of summer for you to explore.
How else are we celebrating these sunnier days? July abounds with soft and
stone fruit – and crumbles are a callin’! (p34). On p82, superstar nutritionist
Emily English is sharing her top recipes to eat well (and quickly). And we’re
ring up the barbecue with our ultimate jerk (p60) and burger recipes (p54).
Happy eating, as ever,

Being a good sport FISHY DISHY

We might not always win in summer sports (whether it be Wimbledon or One of my favourite rituals at the
Formula 1), but we Brits sure know how to mark the occasion with good weekend is making a leisurely
food and drink! I’ll be watching the tennis this year with this jolly spread. brunch of eggs and toast in
various guises. But my hyper
fixation of late, when I’m less
inclined to stand in front of
a hot stove, is to shortcut to
deliciousness with the help
of Secret Smokehouse’s
oak-smoked trout pâté
PORTRAIT: INDIA WHILEY-MORTON

(£5 for 200g). Bound with

crème fraîche, horseradish,
dill and lemon, it’s addictive
Pimm’s glazed chicken Strawberry and Hugo spritz spread on toasted sourdough
with strawberry & lemon verbena with slices of cold cucumber. I’ve
cucumber salad fraisier cake been known to stir it into pasta, too.
secretsmokehouse.co.uk
Search all the recipes at deliciousmagazine.co.uk

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 3
 JULY
6 Food hero We find Tom 42 Something to drink Guides 88 Your summer salad hotlist
Kerridge in a celebratory mood to riesling and chilling wine, 10 brilliant new ideas to
and ready for grill season plus a liqueur and a softie see you through the season
10 Nuggets Morsels of news 102 Pasta winner Take your
and knowledge, seasonal Be a better cook. taste buds to Calabria with
inspiration and more 48 Jack Croft and Will Murray’s a speedy seafood feast
13 Inbox Your emails, meet the nose-to-tail cookery course 106 In my trug Gardener Kathy
reader and a prize to be won Our new chefs in residence Slack knows sensational
14 Discoveries Our pick of the create luscious and food often just needs thyme
best goodies and homeware luxurious lobster crumpets 112 Air fryer magic Enjoy that
16 Booklist The best new recipe 54 Trad vs Twist Which Friday feeling with these
titles, plus one to make, barbecue cheeseburger easy kofte wraps
chosen by Mark Diacono takes your fancy? 114 Veg of the month Make the
44 A drink with... Reality 60 Hot stuff Caribbean chef most of versatile courgettes
TV star-turned entrepreneur Dom Taylor reveals the spicy at their seasonal best
Spencer Matthews secrets of jerk chicken 120 The best BBQ side Super-
122 Exploring Brighton Oh we do 64 Make your own brown smoky beans served on
like to eat beside the seaside... sauce Breakfast will never a fresh, crunchy slaw
130 Stirring it up One writer’s be the same again
ice cream epiphany 70 Welcome to Bangladesh Other great stu.
Dina Begum shares three 68 What an offer! Get Tom
Make it special. flavour-packed recipes Kerridge’s new book and
22 A chilled-out affair Stay cool 76 Your must-bake summer three issues of delicious.
with Rosie Mackean’s light treat Nicola Lamb takes magazine for just £19.99
and breezy menu for six strawberries to a new level 104 Coming next month
28 Sun-kissed cookery Re-create 105 Win! A luxury boutique
Greek island flavours Elevated everyday. hotel break worth £1,000
34 Everyone’s favourite puds 82 Be good to yourself Easy, 128 Recipe index
Summer crumbles made with flavourful meals from 129 Take five Your food lovers’
juicy soft fruit at its peak nutritionist Emily English prize crossword

On the cover. Get Tom Kerridge’s latest book

Confit tuna salad with
potatoes, chickpeas and
tomato dressing p25
& 3 issues of delicious. magazine
Recipe Rosie Mackean for only £19.99
Photograph
India Whiley-Morton Save over £25 on this brilliant combined deal – a new BBQ book &
Styling Hannah Wilkinson oodles of recipes and know-how from us. See p68
 in the issue.

112 22

88 106

60 70

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 5
enjoys a good grilling
 food hero.

The former child actor, one of the UK’s best-loved chefs, is celebrating a big
birthday for The Hand & Flowers, the UK’s only pub with two Michelin stars.
With outdoor grilling season at its height, Tom talks barbecue (and his new
barbecue book), beverages and best-behaviour entertaining
INTERVIEW MIA RODRIGUEZ PHOTOGRAPHS CRISTIAN BARNETT

Q Congratulations on 20 years drinking quality stuff as opposed we have the Pub In The Park
of the Hand & Flowers! How to quantity. And I think, if you’re festivals, so we’re hoping for
was the anniversary party? in the world of food and beverage, warm weather. If you’re into
A Thank you! It’s been a crazy and you know, you’re 50 years the festival season, that’s
20 years, but it’s been brilliant. old, you go, actually, I just enjoy exactly where you want to be.
It’s gone quickly but, when I look
back, so much has been achieved.
So it feels like a mixture of The years at the Hand & Flowers feel like
amazement and a retrospective
of incredible experiences. a retrospective of incredible experiences.
Some brilliant, others absolute Some brilliant, others absolute nightmares,
nightmares, but they’ve all
been part of the journey. but they’ve all been part of the journey”
We decided to invite all our
friends and people we know in something of quality and not a Q You have a barbecue
the industry, those who have huge amount of it. book out at the moment,
been a part of the journey with and you’ve shared a recipe
us and been our friends for 20 Q What’s your non-alcoholic with us (see p8). Which
years, whose own businesses beverage of choice? do you prefer, hosting or
have also grown alongside ours. A I don’t do alcohol alternatives, attending barbecues?
People like Tom Kitchin, Adam although my wife will quite often A I don’t mind either really,
Byatt, Heston, Raymond Blanc drink non-alcoholic or zero but I thoroughly enjoy the
(they’ve always been supportive) alcohol beers or Guinness. cooking process of hosting.
and then great friends like Clare We’re quite lucky that we’ve
Smyth, Simon Rogan, Mark Q Any plans for this summer? got a big enough space to be
Birchall, Brett Graham. To A I’m a huge fan of outdoor able to host a few friends. So it
celebrate all our places with cooking, and I’m particularly always works well. Around our
fantastic friends and chefs who excited because we’re currently house it’s a big enough garden
have been on the same journey renovating our garden to include for the kids to have a good run
was just brilliant. an outdoor kitchen. We’re hoping around and have fun.
to spend a lot more time out there
Q Was it a boozy one? Of cooking on a Sunday, which is Q For those intimidated by
course you’ve been sober exactly where I want to be. cooking outdoors, what’s
for a few years now. I love cooking on coals, pizza a foolproof barbecue recipe
A Everyone was on their best ovens and all of that stuff. It’s a that’s almost impossible
behaviour and on really good great way of gathering people. to mess up?
form. We all went home and And it’s nice to have lots of A I think what happens is you get
were tucked up in our beds by different flavours mixed together. barbecue geeks who are brilliant
midnight. I think things have But you don’t have to worry about at it, and it can feel intimidating
definitely changed, drinking- the crossover of global cuisines, when they’re talking about a
wise, but I don’t know if that’s because it’s all cooked outdoors, 16-hour slow-cooked brisket you
because we’ve got older… It was so it all tastes delicious! And then wrap in paper and leave,
very civilised. People were then on a professional level, and you know, you got to do →

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 7
 Barbecuing can be intimidating when they’re TOM’S ZESTY NEW
BARBECUE RECIPE
talking about a 16-hour brisket but the only way you YOU’LL LOVE
get better at it is by giving it a go. Be brave with it”
Salmon with fennel
and dill
the dry rub and it all feels a little But there’s nothing wrong with Serves 4
bit, “Oh my God”. having things like potatoes Prep time 15 min, plus 30 min
I think most people feel like prepped in an air fryer. marinating
there’s a big skill set and you Cook time 10 min
should be worried about how Q What’s an underrated Specialist kit Grill basket (see
to do it properly. But start off vegetable, meat or fish that Know-how)
simply, cooking grilled chicken home cooks should be trying
breast, say, then do something on the barbecue? “This dish is all about
like beer can chicken, which is A A bavette steak is a really good balancing the smoky, herby
a great thing to do on one of one because it’s quite thin and flavours of seasoned salmon
those egg-style barbecues. After it’s relatively cost effective (see with a creamy, tangy mustard
that you can move forward to p100 for recipe inspiration). You and herb crème fraîche that
those longer, slower cooks. can cook it quite quickly. Sear it adds just the right amount of
Just simply cooking steaks heavily on both sides, then leave zing. Serve with steamed baby
on a barbecue is a lovely it to rest and you end up with this potatoes and a lemon wedge
introduction, and the flavour, the beautifully pink, gorgeous steak and you have a meal that’s both
char marks and the smokiness – you cut against the grain so it’s satisfying and sophisticated.”
they really do lift your cookery nice and tender.
to a flavour profile you can’t get A grill basket is handy
KNOW-
from anything else. So I really Q Any tips and tricks for HOW for cooking fish and
wouldn’t worry about it at all. stress-free entertaining other delicate things
And the only way you’re going when hosting outdoors? on a barbecue, turning without
to get better at it is by giving it A So much of it is about structure, them sticking (and without you
a go. Be brave with it. making sure you know what losing any food through the
you’re doing and having an gaps!). Buy online or from large
Q What’s a simple way to add understanding of what you’re supermarkets. Brush the inside
Michelin-starred flair to a going to do. So don’t just walk with oil before using.
barbecue or garden party? into it blind – a little bit of Swedish mustard is mild,
A I think the use of vegetables planning will go a long way to a little spicy and sweet. It’s
is overlooked. A lot of people ensuring your barbecue goes available online or in large
don’t think of doing things like off with no stress. supermarkets, but if you’re
grilling asparagus in spring struggling to find it, use dijon.
(which is beautiful), or quarters Q Coleslaw or corn on the cob
of those vibrant hispi cabbages, for the rest of your life? • 4 skin-on salmon fillets
slow-cooked and charred – A Coleslaw! (about 250g each) FOOD STYLING: NICOLE HERFT. STYLING: LYDIA BRUN MCPHERSON

absolutely lovely. • 1 tsp dill seeds (or caraway

seeds)
Q You’re an avid air fryer • 2 tsp fennel seeds, roughly
user and many of our readers Recipe taken crushed
love them. What would you from The BBQ • Finely grated zest and juice
use one for in summer? Book by 1 lemon
A I think there’s probably a lot Tom Kerridge • 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
you could get done with an air (Bloomsbury £25) • Small handful (10g) dill,
fryer. You could give some small and tested by roughly chopped
potatoes an initial cook before delicious. NEXT MONTH • Steamed new potatoes
We catch up
you chargrill them. The longer • See p68 to get the book in to serve
with baking
they spend on the barbecue the a special deal with 3 issues superstar Paul • Watercress to serve
better, to get that good flavour. of delicious. for £19.99 Hollywood • Lemon wedges to serve

8 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
 food hero.

For the herby crème fraîche

• 300ml crème fraîche
• Finely grated zest 1 lemon
• Juice ½ lemon
• 1 tsp wholegrain mustard
• 1 tsp Swedish mustard
(see Know-how)
• 2 tbsp finely chopped chives
• 2 tbsp finely chopped dill

1 Season both sides of the

salmon fillets with salt and
pepper, then sprinkle with the
dill seeds and crushed fennel
seeds. Trickle over the lemon
juice and drizzle with the
extra-virgin olive oil, turning to
coat the salmon on both sides.
Sprinkle over the lemon zest
and chopped dill. Put in a bowl
and leave to marinate in the
fridge for 30 minutes.
2 Meanwhile, light a barbecue.
For the herby crème fraîche,
mix all the ingredients together
in a bowl and season with salt
and pepper to taste.
3 Put the salmon fillets,
skin-side down, in a grill basket
(see Know-how) and secure.
4 When you’re ready to cook,
put the grill basket on a hot
barbecue, so the fish is skin-
side down, and cook for 3-4
minutes or until the skin is
crisp. Flip the grill basket over
and barbecue for 2-3 minutes
more or until the fish is just
cooked through.
5 Remove the basket from the
barbecue and leave the fish to
rest for a couple of minutes.
Meanwhile, in a bowl, toss the
steamed new potatoes with half
the herby crème fraîche.
6 Transfer the salmon to serving
plates and pile the potatoes
alongside. Serve with some
herby crème fraîche, a handful of
watercress and a lemon wedge.
Per serving 741kcals, 60g fat
(23g saturated), 47g protein,
2.8g carbs (2.6g sugars),
0.8g salt, 0.6g fibre
 Choice bits of knowledge, food news and seasonal inspiration.
Compiled by Anthony Noonan and Wiki Jazwinska

PEAS
SEASON’S EATINGS

If you grow your own peas you’ll know how flavourful they
can be picked right off the plant. Be wary of fresh pods in
supermarkets, though – they start losing their sweetness
just a day or two after being picked. Stir-fry on a barbecue
in a metal sieve– they’ll take on a welcome smokiness.
Head of
Food Tom TOMATOES
Peak season British tomatoes are like nature’s sweets.
Shingler’s To really bring out their flavour, especially when raw,
favourite chop however you like, sprinkle with a liberal amount of
produce salt, throw them in a colander and let them sit for
for July 30 minutes. They’ll lose some of their wateriness and
intensify massively in flavour.

CHERRIES
I like them frozen; I even like them tinned, sold as pie filling. But a
fresh cherry is inimitable. You don’t need to do a lot to them (except
try not to look too bloodthirsty with the juice running down your
chin) but they char and sear well in a griddle pan. Or make a sorbet
and compote (right). Search ‘sorbet’ at deliciousmagazine.co.uk

WHAT’S IN YOUR PICNIC? According to a study by YouGov, savoury

favourites dominate British picnic baskets. Sandwiches and wraps are non-
negotiable for 90% of us, while crisps and fruit come in second, each favoured by
87% of respondents. Sushi is the least popular, with just 35% choosing the
Japanese classic. Find inspo for your spread at deliciousmagazine.co.uk/picnicrecipes

ROCK ON!
On 24-27 July, Dinham House in North Cornwall opens its doors once more to the Rock
Oyster Festival. Known as the ‘Glasto for foodies’, the weekend features a range of
live music, chef demos, food and drink stalls, oyster shucking and more. This year
Cornish brewery Harbour is the festival’s official beer sponsor. Expect chart-topping
headliners like Ministry of Sound Classical, Rag ’n’ Bone Man and UB40, plus
masterclasses from Richard Bertinet, John Torode, Lisa Goodwin-Allen and Jack Stein.
From £65 for an adult day ticket, rockoysterfestival.co.uk/tickets
 july moments.

BACK TO SCHOOL

THE FOOD HISTORY BIT

Our monthly
recommendation of
cookery schools and
courses to sharpen
your skills
JnrChef is a new recipe box
subscription for children. Every four
weeks, it delivers fresh ingredients
with access to online cookery
lessons specially designed for kids.
Our head of commercial Liz Webber
FOODIE READ tested one on her 11-year-old son,
OF THE MONTH Billy. “He was thrilled to receive
a box and cooked chicken kebabs
Peach Street To for our family dinner. The
ingredients were super fresh, the
Lobster Lane by instructions easy to follow, and the
Felicity Coake video was a brilliant way to guide HOW THE
(Mudlark £16.99) and inspire young cooks. The end ‘NORANGE’
result? Absolutely delicious!”
If you have a child or grandchild BECAME THE
Reviewed with an interest in cooking, it could ORANGE
by editorial be a wise investment (especially A zesty, juicy story of
if you’re getting dinner out of it).
director From £29.99 a month, jnrchef.co.uk
linguistic slipperiness
Laura Rowe Did you know the word ‘orange’
used to have an ‘n’ at the front?
You may love food writer and
When these zesty fruit rolled
Guardian columnist Felicity
into Europe from Asia in the
Cloake, but a 389-page
medieval period, they were
culinary adventure across
known as noranges. (There was
the USA by bike?! It might
no word in English for the colour
sound challenging, but any
orange then, which is why the
concerns that the pages
robin’s orange breast was – and is
would be limited to burgers
– said to be red.) The name came
and doughnuts, or multi-lane
from the Sanskrit ‘nāranga’,
freeways, are quickly put to
which travelled through Persia
bed. Bridget Jones-esque in
becoming ‘narang’, before
its tracking (of pies consumed
landing in Spain as ‘naranja’ and
and miles cycled), this
France as ‘norenge’. While
delicious diary is of course
crossing the Channel, the ‘n’
about food, but also the
slipped overboard – probably
people who make and enjoy
thanks to a linguistic mix-up
it, captured (poignantly) in
(‘a norange’ sounds like ‘an
election year. Expect
orange’). The ‘orange’ was born,
mouthwatering, funny
with the colour named after
descriptions of a melting pot
the fruit in 1512.
of food and drink, from
Get zesting at deliciousmagazine.
barbecue and burritos to
co.uk/orangerecipes →
breakfast dumplings and
braunschweiger.

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 11
 july moments.

THE MINDFUL COOK

Our sustainability expert
Emily Gussin celebrates
10 years of the world’s first
zero waste restaurant
It’s never easy opening a restaurant, but chef Douglas
McMaster started fine-dining Silo in 2015 with the added
challenge of operating without a bin. Originating in Brighton,
then moving to east London, the restaurant’s approach has
FOODIE DAY TRIPPER

FOLKESTONE seen the Silo team rethink every aspect of running a food
business. That includes a super-seasonal menu, fermentation
Acting deputy digital
projects and plates made from upcycled wine bottles.
editor (audiences) McMaster’s closed-loop cooking has inspired chefs worldwide
Mia Rodriguez visits (inevitably, he has a TED Talk).
a Kentish coastal town on the up Now, even restaurants that
don’t shout about their eco-creds
THE LOWDOWN are thinking about how they can
Recently named best place to live in make the most of every scrap.
southeast England, Folkestone is on the And although they aren’t all
regeneration train. You can tick off luxury making garum (fermented fish
new seafront apartments, a street art tour, sauce) from seafood shells, the
live music on the harbour arm and plenty positive impact is clear to see.
of cool new bars and restaurants. Find out how other UK
restaurants are going green at
CREATIVE CONSUMPTION deliciousmagazine.co.uk/
In the new Creative Quarter centred around ecorestaurants
Tontine Street (gifts galore), pop into the
Folkestone Bookshop and grab a tome or two.
If caffeine is required, Steep Street Coffee
House is a book café and bakery with tasty
VIVE LA FRANCE!
cakes – the chocolate hazelnut is a winner. Want to treat someone to a very
special day out? Raymond Blanc
THE DRINK invites you to two events at the
Brewing Brothers Beachside, a friendly legendary Le Manoir aux
sea-container joint on the revamped harbour Quat’Saisons in Oxfordshire. On
arm, has a taproom that also dishes out Wednesday 9 July Raymond will
cracking pizzas and small plates. Pair a be joined by Michelin royalty
capricciosa with a pint of Smuggler’s Stout. Yannick Alléno (his restaurants
around the world have a
THE FOOD combined 17 stars) for the Four
At Rocksalt across the harbour, seafood is the Hands Lunch celebrating the
thing – perhaps torched mackerel with Kewpie range and beauty of French
mayo and teriyaki daikon slaw. At the rooftop cuisine. Then, on Sunday 13 July,
bar, jazz and funk DJs play at sunset every Le Manoir will host a Provençal-
Saturday in summer. You’ll find more great style garden party in honour of
seafood, including local scallops and crab, at Bastille Day. The celebrations
dinky Little Rock on the beach. will bring together local artists,
artisans and producers with
EXTRA BITES live music, new food and local
Cycle or walk west along the coast path to creativity in the heart of the
Sandgate, where Orchard Lane does great hotel’s gardens.
pastries including super-popular Swedish From £385 per person for the
buns, and John Dory wine shop doubles as garden party. Click ‘what’s on’ at
a simple but brilliant restaurant. Le Manoir site at belmond.com

12 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
 inbox.

Over to you...

MEET THE READER

Subject: The year of living deliciously
STAR From: Ken Tombs Laura Douglas-
EMAIL I’ve had a subscription to delicious. for four years now. Every Hamilton lives in
+ month I eagerly await its delivery, then I read it from cover to cover London and is
before starting to read it again. But I never cooked any of the recipes!
So, on 31 December 2024 I made a New Year’s resolution to cook at least one recipe an Edinburgh
from delicious. each month. So far I have cooked the Thai fried egg salad [Jan], University graduate
traditional chicken fajitas [Feb], schnitzel à la holstein [Mar], chicken marbella [Apr],
creamy lemon linguine [May] and ultimate tortilla [Jun] – all great successes! The Most treasured food
recipes are easier to cook than I imagined. Usually I give up on New Year’s resolutions memory? My first oyster,
by the second week in January but I’m sure I’ll keep this one going until December, in Cornwall. The texture,
then into 2026 and beyond. I’m only sad about all those months I spent just reading. the taste... Unforgettable.

Favourite family recipe?

Subject: My Welsh discovery Mum’s chicken casserole.
From: Jane Miller It’s the epitome of comfort.
I was given a subscription to delicious. as a birthday I love how she varies the
present and what a great magazine it is. I loved the tinned seasonal veg – one month
fish feature in the Spanish issue [Jun] but, outside London, carrots and onions, the next,
finding shops that source these delicacies isn’t easy. I hit leeks and fennel.
the jackpot when I visited Aberystwyth in Wales, though.
Ultracomida deli is a treasure trove of all things Spanish and Your cheer-up meal? Steak
especially tinned fish, plus stuffed olives, pata negra jamón and chips. It reminds me of
bellota and superb Spanish wines. A brilliant find. Friday nights when Dad
CONTRIBUTIONS MAY BE EDITED FOR SPACE/CLARITY AND ARE PUBLISHED ON THE BASIS THAT CONTRIBUTORS HAVE THE AGREEMENT

would come back from the

butcher’s and fry our steaks
OF ANYONE MENTIONED FOR ANY PERSONAL INFORMATION TO BE INCLUDED. *FOR T&CS SEE P128. PORTRAIT: YUKI SUGIURA

Subject: Fiddling with Fiedler Subject: Swap shop in copious amounts of butter,
From: Jack Owen From: Wyn Oldfield garlic and herbs. So nostalgic.
I enjoyed the Julius Fiedler I love June’s Spanish
interview [Jun]. As a nutritionist issue, but can anyone Your secret weapon in the
I often advise people to add foods suggest alternatives to kitchen? My Microplane.
like raw spinach to dishes in the beans in recipes? My Perfect for grating garlic,
final stages of cooking to avoid husband is allergic and lemon zest, frozen chillies…
overcooking and retain water- I’m running out of ideas.
soluble nutrients. I noticed in HEAD OF FOOD TOM Your biggest cooking
Julius’s recipe for spinach with SHINGLER SAYS: It’s adventure? The foundation
chickpeas, the spinach is wilted in the boiling chickpeas, tricky, once you’ve tried course at Leiths. I learned so
then the cooking water discarded. I made the dish with chickpeas and lentils – much and it changed my life.
a slight modification, adding the spinach in step 5 for but the Murcia salad is
the simmer – still delicious but with a nutritional bonus! great without beans! Ever had a cooking
disaster? Adding teaspoon
after teaspoon of caster
This month’s star emails wins an easy-to-use, sugar to a bechamel sauce,
STAR PRIZE

FOR YOUR CHANCE

quiet and cool Magimix Blender Power 3 TO WIN A MAGIMIX thinking it was salt!
worth £200. It helps you make light work of BLENDER POWER 3...
everything from gut-healthy drinks to Let us know your Favourite weird food
nutritious soups, nut butters and milks. With thoughts on this
a 1.2 litre working capacity and a 1,000 watt
combination? When I was
month’s issue by
motor (guaranteed for 30 years) it’s ideal for emailing us at younger I swore by cucumber
small kitchens, and with a built-in Auto-Clean info@delicious and ketchup. I promise
Function it’s easy to maintain. magimix.co.uk magazine.co.uk* I don’t eat that any more.

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 13
 BOWLED OVER
In my kitchen I have a partner-imposed
one-in, one-out policy for all crockery/

2
kitchen kit, so new purchases have to
earn their place. And boy, do these Hokan
bowls do that. Their USP is that they
LAURA ROWE
can be used to ‘prepare, cook, serve, save
Editorial
and store’. Not only are these stoneware
director
bowls oven, microwave, freezer and

1
dishwasher safe but they also come in a
variety of sizes and have lids that double
as side plates and allow for space-saving
stacking. And I’ve not even got to the best
bit – they’re gorgeous and come in vibrant
colours. I chose Green Jade (pictured).
£90 for a set of three (400ml, 600ml and
1 litre), hokanbowls.com

DISCOVERIES
A selection of the best new bites and homeware
RELISH THE THOUGHT delights from producers big and small, as tasted
Move over, mango chutney – and tested by the delicious. team
there’s a fresh new zingy-
sweet-tangy condiment in
town. As fans of Tracklements
will expect, this is a special- AYE, HERE’S THE RUB
edition relish with only a few Americans take their barbecuing
simple ingredients but real seriously, and it’s their spice
bite (as in actual chunks of mixes and rubs that are often
pineapple, and pleasing heat key to creating great flavour, but
from red chilli, ginger and these British-made Lumberjaxe
mustard seeds). In our TOM rubs are some of the best I’ve
household, we’ve quickly SHINGLER had. I love the Cowboy Butter
become addicted to water Head of food Seasoning – it’s like coating
biscuits, a hunk of mature whatever you’re grilling in the
cheddar and a big dollop of most flavourful garlic butter –
this stuff – but it’s equally the buttery notes are beefed up
ideal with sausages from the with paprika, chilli, pepper and
barbie and as a hard-working lemon. You’ll find single tins in

3
base for your next meat delis and online, but their mixed
marinade. And as a glaze over box of seasonings will see you
chicken wings? Chef’s kiss! through a summer of grilling.
£3.95 for 190g, delis, farm £30 for 6 tins (100-110g),
shops and tracklements.co.uk lumberjaxefoodcompany.co.uk

14 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
 in the know.

SET SAIL
I never really understood coffee until I lived with
a housemate who cared deeply about his morning
cup of joe. The coffee he made opened my eyes
– literally. Another revelation was tasting Origin
4
Coffee’s Sail Ship range. To help address the
ANTHONY
high carbon emissions of coffee transport,
NOONAN
they bring the beans from Brazil by sailing ship,
Editorial
with emissions four times lower than diesel-
assistant
powered sea freight. On top of that, the coffee
is mellow, richly flavoured and well balanced.
Whole beans or ground, £11.95 for 250g (10
compostable pods for £7.25), origincoffee.co.uk

5 SODA AND SPICE

Despite my love of wine and beer I like to keep an
eye out for the auld liver (mainly so I can assure
more years of indulgence). With this in mind, I’m
always on the look out for premium pop (drinking
tap water on a night out can get old quickly). To
my joy, Picoso’s spicy sodas have entered my life.

6
Melding bright fruitiness with a distinct spice,
their lime & scotch bonnet and mango & habañero
offerings really engaged my taste buds and are
oh-so sippable. £10 for 4 x 250ml, delli.market

7 ME AND MY SPOON
I’m obsessed with
Crow Canyon’s splatter
enamelware; not only
is it gorgeous on any
LOCAL PASTA FOR LOCAL PEOPLE table setting, but also
Swapping staple ingredients with a lower mileage, POLLYANNA the products are useful
British-made alternatives always bring me joy. COUPLAND and hardwearing. Do
Northern Pasta Co’s spelt pasta range is made Senior food I already have the
in small batches using traditional methods with producer spoon in all three
sustainable grains, all in the UK. The spelt gives colours? Yes I do. Is
EMILY GUSSIN it a toasted, nutty flavour and sauces coat the the pet bowl in the
Food producer bronze die-cut shapes with ease. The range shopping basket as
& sustainability includes fusilli, rigatoni, casarecce, conchigliette we speak? Yes it is!
lead and gigli but my favourites are the sauce-trapping Large serving spoon,
radiatori, which look like mini frilly radiators – £9; large pet bowl,
hence the name. £3.95 for 450g, ocado.com £24.50, trouva.com
 The booklist Can’t decide on a holiday destination this
summer? Mark Diacono’s pick of the new
cookbooks might help: the flavours of
Turkey, Malaysia, Portugal and more are
singing like the sirens from bookshop shelves

A BIT ABOUT MARK

DIACONO
BOOK OF THE MONTH
If there’s anyone more obsessed
with growing, cooking, eating SIMPLY MALAYSIAN
and writing about food than Following the success of her debut book, Sambal
Mark, we’re yet to find them. Shiok, chef Mandy Yin brings us a collection of
His books, such as Sour (2019), 80 unfussy Malaysian recipes where flavour is
have won awards, so he knows uncompromised by the recipes’ simplicity.
a goodie when he sees one. Inspired by the arrival of a son, Yin’s book is
Read his Substack, Mark for home cooks with limited time looking to eat
Diacono’s Garden To Table, great food every day. Expect a blend of traditional
or follow him on Instagram and modern, authentic and fresh takes that
@mark_diacono reflect Yin’s Malaysian-born Chinese of Peranakan
Nyonya heritage – she spent years in Kuala
Lumpur before moving to London.
“Hainanese chicken
As you’d expect, flavours are big: dried shrimp, rice is a classic in
soy, curry powder, chillies and ginger are just
some of the lively threads running through the
Malaysian cuisine.
book, alongside the gentler notes of coconut milk, But the traditional
rice and noodles. The one-pot chicken rice (right)
– a low-fuss take on the classic Hainanese chicken
method does take
rice – was a simple, achievable joy. I suspect the some commitment
lime, coriander and shrimp paste chicken (I could
– and will – eat all the chicken recipes) and the
– you need to poach
four-ingredient sambal skate wing will be up next. an entire chicken,
Practical factor Many cookbooks promise simple,
then pass it through
accessible recipes for busy households, but not iced water before
many deliver like Simply Malaysian. Full of menu
suggestions, pleasing textural combinations,
chopping it up.
vegetarian one-pot meals and more, the pages Here I’ve turned it
work hard so you don’t have to. into a much simpler
Recipe taken The taste test The first main recipe in the book – one-pot dish”
from Simply spicy sardine linguine – with a punchy yet perfectly MANDY YIN
Malaysian suited Malaysian curry powder, was so good, and
(Quadrille £27, a taste of the pleasures in the rest of the book.
out 31 July) and
tested by Quadrille £27, out 31 July; photographs by
delicious. Louise Hagger
 new recipe books.

BOOK-OF-THE-MONTH
RECIPE
One-pot chicken rice
Serves 4
Prep time 15 min, plus resting
Cook time 40 min

• 2 tbsp salted butter

• ½ small onion, finely chopped
• 4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
• 400g jasmine rice, washed
in a sieve until the water runs
clear, then thoroughly drained
• ½ tbsp fine salt
• 2.5cm piece ginger, thinly
sliced
• 1 tbsp toasted sesame oil
• 400g chicken breast, cut into
3cm x 1cm pieces
• 800ml chicken stock (it’s fine
to use a chicken stock cube
or bouillon)
• 15g coriander, roughly
chopped
• 2 spring onions, thinly sliced
• Spring onion and ginger relish
and sambal or hot sauce to
serve (optional)

1 Add the butter to a large

hob-safe casserole (with a lid)
or ovenproof pan over a medium-
high heat. Once melted, add the
onion and garlic, then stir-fry for
2 minutes. Add the rice, salt,
ginger, sesame oil, chicken and
PHOTOGRAPH: LOUISE HAGGER. FOOD STYLING: NICOLE HERFT. STYLING: ALEXANDER BREEZE

stock, then stir well.

2 Turn the heat up to high and
bring to the boil, stirring often
– this will take 3-5 minutes.
Cover with the lid, reduce the
heat to the lowest level and
leave to cook for 30 minutes.
3 After this time, turn off the
heat and leave the dish to rest
for 10 minutes.
4 Take off the lid, add the
chopped coriander and stir into
the rice, then sprinkle with the
spring onions to finish.
Per serving 588kcals, 13g fat
(5.2g saturated), 37g protein,
80g carbs (1.5g sugars),
2.9g salt, 1.9g fibre →

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 17
 SABZI
BEST OF THE REST

I love author and broadcaster Yasmin Khan’s books.

As well as offering great recipes, she’s a seriously
good food and travel writer. This, her fourth, is
perhaps her most direct, recipe-led book, and if the
idea of a vegetarian (partly vegan) cookbook inspired
by Khan’s travels through the Mediterranean, Middle
East and South Asia appeals, this is for you.
The title Sabzi (Persian for ‘herbs’) hints at the bold
flavours and fragrances within. It won’t be long until
I make aubergine and barberry kuku (a sort of Persian
frittata), sweet potatoes with pistachio and mint
pesto, and rhubarb and cardamom tart. The design –
PORTUGAL: A clean lines, white space, beautiful illustrations and full
CULINARY JOURNEY bleed photography – complements the writing so well,
Anaïs Bourny Delon’s inviting the reader into Khan’s world of flavour.
beautiful celebration of
Portugal and its cuisine Practical factor I love the construction of this book:
uses the food of 12 chapters such as Bountiful Breakfasts and Big Salads,
chefs and restaurants along with pages on cupboard essentials, kitchen
to share both classic hacks and menu planning, make everything so
recipes and more approachable and easy to navigate to suit your mood.
modern creations.
Expect much seafood The taste test Slow-roasted carrots with tahini lentil
– octopus salad, grilled dip (pictured below) was a simple joy; the mushroom
scallops and salpicão and buckwheat soup that followed was pleasingly
(Portuguese sausage) hearty and satisfying; and the dark chocolate and
– many stews and dried lime tart to finish is a new favourite.
inviting desserts.
I made the chocolate Bloomsbury £26, out 3 July; photographs
mousse with olive oil, by Jonathan Gregson
and it won’t be the
last time.
Mitchell Beazley £26,
out 17 July

MARK’S VERDICT
“The title Sabzi (Persian
for ‘herbs’) hints at the bold
avours and fragrances
within... and the design
complements the writing,
inviting the reader into
Khan’s world of avour”
 new recipe books.

MEMORIES OF GASCONY
Not many chefs can claim the
expertise or influence of Pierre
Koffmann, and this book – the
story of how he fell in love with
food, newly released in
PHOTOGRAPH: LAURA EDWARDS (FROM 2016 EDITION OF MEMORIES OF GASCONY)

paperback, without
photographs – is, to my mind,
perhaps his greatest gift.
The recipes are a rolling
stream of irresistibles: grilled
chicken with shallots and
vinaigrette, greengages in
Armagnac, salt cod cassoulet
and tarte aux pruneaux
(pictured left, from an earlier
edition) are four randoms
plucked from so many. This is
also a love story: an engrossing
read about growing up and
helping at his grandparents’
farm in rural Gascony, learning
to appreciate seasonality, and
the pleasure of simple cooking
using the best ingredients.
A few recipes are, for most of
us, historical joys for reading
SUMMER
HOLIDAY rather than cooking (not many
READ will be making the gudgeon
omelette) but that doesn’t
dilute the pleasure or value here
one bit: whether you’re hoping
for a brilliant read or a collection
of exceptional recipes, you will
find yourself perfectly satisfied.

Practical factor It’s a reflection

SMOKE AND MARK’S VERDICT of the book’s excellence that
SEASONED BREAD the paperback reissue of this
Hasan Semay – aka Big Has “A few recipes are, for 1989 classic is as relevant and
– is a half Turkish-Cypriot, most of us, historical enjoyable now as it was then.
half British chef and a
graduate of Jamie Oliver’s
joys for reading rather The taste test The simplicity of
Fifteen program. This – his than cooking (not many the gratin of leeks with
second book – is a colourful, roquefort, which I made at the
vibrant celebration of Turkish
will be making the same time as the Gascon leg of
food and the country itself. gudgeon omelette) but lamb on the following page, could
Grilled squid with flowering not have been more perfect.
oregano and pul biber, beef
that doesn’t dilute the
and bulgur wheat köftes, and pleasure one bit” Aster £12.99, out 17 July
the lokma (syrup doughnuts)
immediately took my eye.
Pavilion Books £22,
out 17 July For more rave reviews, visit deliciousmagazine.co.uk/bestcookbooks

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 19
maldonsalt.com @maldonsalt
 Inspo for fabulous food for friends. In Rosie Mackean’s laid-
back menu, even the soup (pictured) is chilled out. Plus:
Greek island classics, fruity crumbles and the rules of riesling
PHOTOGRAPH: INDIA WHILEY-MORTON

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 21
dinner with rosie.

A chilled-out
affair
The secret to being a laid-back
host is prepping in advance.
Follow entertaining queen
Rosie Mackean’s low-effort
summer menu and discover
how easy the living can be
RECIPES AND FOOD STYLING
ROSIE MACKEAN
PHOTOGRAPHS
INDIA WHILEY-MORTON

A BIT ABOUT ROSIE MACKEAN

A food stylist and dinner party
revivalist, Rosie trained as a
chef before spending two years
working in London kitchens.
Obsessed by cookery books and
TV programmes, she turned her
passion into a career working on
cookbooks and shows such as
Nadiya’s Family Favourites. She
has a popular Substack, The
Dinner Party, and published her
first book, Good Time Cooking
(Pavilion Books £26), in 2024.
Follow Rosie on Instagram
@rosiemackeanpastaqueen

22 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
 Confit tuna salad
ROSIE’S SUMMERY with potatoes,
chickpeas
MENU FOR 6 and tomato
dressing
Chilled cucumber
and yogurt soup with
prawns and dill
Confit tuna salad with
potatoes, chickpeas
and tomato dressing
Pineapple mousse
Chilled cucumber Cucumber is a comforting flavour for
and yogurt soup
with prawns and dill me, and I love that this soup is refreshing
Serves 6 and soothing. It’s also super easy to make
Prep time 25 min, plus salting
and at least 3 hours chilling
ahead and keep in the fridge until needed.
Cook time 5 min I serve it with pickled cucumber and
• 4 medium cucumbers,
dressed prawns – it’s giving Greek and
peeled, deseeded and Scandi vibes – and it’s utterly delicious”
roughly chopped
• 3 tsp salt flakes
• 450g natural yogurt
• 1 garlic clove, roughly
chopped
• 50ml olive oil
• 10g dill, roughly chopped
• Finely grated zest ½ lemon
• Bread and butter to serve

For the pickled cucumber

• 1 medium cucumber,
peeled, deseeded
and diced
• ½ tsp salt flakes
• 50ml rice vinegar
• 2 tbsp caster sugar

For the prawns

• 200g cooked Atlantic prawns
• Finely grated zest and juice
½ lemon
• ½ tsp chilli flakes (optional)
• 20g dill, roughly chopped
• 100ml extra-virgin olive oil

1 Put the 4 roughly chopped

cucumbers in a colander and
sprinkle over the salt. Toss, then
leave to sit for 30-60 minutes to
draw out excess moisture and
intensify the cucumber flavour.
2 Pat the cucumber dry with
kitchen paper, then put in a
blender with the yogurt, garlic,
olive oil, dill and lemon zest.
Whizz until completely smooth,
then season to taste (it may
need a pinch more salt). Pour
into a container, then chill in
the fridge for at least 3 hours
but ideally overnight.
3 For the pickled cucumber, put
the diced cucumber in a colander
 dinner with rosie.

and add the salt, then set aside. I had a salad like this at Chapel Market Kitchen in
Meanwhile, put the vinegar,
sugar and 50ml water in a small
London and was reminded of how delicious homemade
saucepan and bring to the boil. confit tuna is. I love to serve it on this wonderful
Remove from the heat, leave to
cool for 5 minutes, then transfer
hearty salad, dressed with grated tomatoes which are
the salted cucumber to a so good at this time of year. It’s a good hack for a quick,
container and pour over the
still-hot pickling liquid. Leave to
delicious dressing. There is a bit of cooking involved
pickle for at least 30 minutes here but it’s low-key and easy to get ahead with”
(or overnight in the fridge).
4 Stir the prawns, lemon zest • 2 tbsp salt flakes can see tiny bubbles in the oil (it
and juice, chilli (if using), dill, • Pared zest 1 lemon shouldn’t ever get to a simmer;
olive oil and a pinch of salt and • 3 bay leaves think more of a blip-blip-blip).
pepper together. • 1 red chilli, halved Cook the tuna like this for 15
5 To serve, ladle the chilled soup • 2 garlic cloves, bashed in minutes; it should be cooked
into bowls. Top with the pickled their skins through but tender and full of
cucumber and dressed prawns, • 1 tbsp coriander seeds flavour. Leave it to cool in the
along with any oil they sit in. • ½ tsp fennel seeds oil, then keep it covered in the
Serve with buttered bread. • ½ tsp cumin seeds fridge for up to 3 days until
Per serving 363kcals, 29g fat • Up to 800ml extra-virgin needed (see Don’t Waste It).
(5.7g saturated), 12g protein, olive oil 3 For the salad, put the potatoes
11g carbs (11g sugars), 1.8g in a saucepan and cover with
salt, 2.2g fibre For the salad cold water. Add lots of salt and
• 500g new potatoes, halved the sherry vinegar. Bring up to
lengthways a simmer, then cook for 15-18
• 3 tbsp sherry vinegar minutes or until the potatoes
• 570g jar chickpeas, drained are just cooked. Drain and dress
• 20g flatleaf parsley, leaves with 4 tbsp of the confit tuna
picked oil while still hot – they’ll soak
• 10g coriander, leaves picked up lots of that great flavour.
and stalks finely chopped 4 Make the tomato dressing by
• 200g cherry tomatoes, halved combining all the ingredients
• 140g mixed olives with a pinch of salt and pepper.
5 To serve, make sure nothing
For the tomato dressing is fridge-cold (especially the
COVER RECIPE • 2 large plum tomatoes, tuna) by letting it come to room
Confit tuna salad with coarsely grated temperature if needed. Toss the
potatoes, chickpeas • 4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil potatoes, chickpeas, parsley,
and tomato dressing • 1 garlic clove, finely grated coriander, cherry tomatoes and
Serves 6 • 2 tbsp sherry vinegar olives in the tomato dressing,
Prep time 25 min saving some coriander stalks
Cook time 20 min 1 Put the tuna steaks on a plate and some dressing for the top.
and rub the salt into them. Set Arrange the salad on a large
When you’ve used the aside for 10 minutes. Meanwhile, platter, then drain the tuna
DON’T
WASTE tuna, strain the oil and put all the remaining ingredients steaks from the oil and gently
IT
discard any solids. Keep for the tuna in a large wide pan lay them on top, flaking them
in an airtight container in the (ideally the tuna steaks should into large chunks if you like.
fridge for up to a month and be able to sit in a single layer). Finish with the coriander stalks
use to cook fish or vegetables. 2 After 10 minutes, Lower the and remaining dressing.
tuna into the pan – the steaks Per serving 430kcals, 17g fat
For the tuna should be completely submerged (2.6g saturated), 39g protein,
• 6 tuna steaks (around in the oil. Set over a low heat 25g carbs (3.9g sugars),
750g in total) and leave, undisturbed, until you 3.2g salt, 8.6g fibre →

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 25
This is a great retro pud to impress; it’s light,
creamy and tropical – and very, very hard to
stop eating. Make this the night before so you
know it will be perfectly set in time. I like using
whipped egg yolks instead of whites for extra
stability in mousses; they give things a custardy
texture, as does the mascarpone here”
 dinner with rosie.

Pineapple mousse 1 Put two thirds of the drained take a spoonful of the egg yolk
Serves 6 pineapple in a blender. Finely mixture and whisk it in.
Prep time 25 min, plus at least chop the final third and set 4 Pour the whole lot back into
8 hours chilling aside. Whizz the pineapple until the bowl of egg yolks and use
Cook time 10 min smooth, then pass the mixture an electric mixer to beat it
through a fine sieve into a quickly until combined. Add
Fresh pineapple saucepan. Add 60g of the sugar, the pineapple purée, mix well,
KNOW-
HOW contains the enzyme bring to the boil, then simmer then, working in batches, fold
bromelain, which will for 10 minutes or until reduced in the mascarpone cream using
break down the gelatine so by half. Leave to cool, then put a large metal spoon/whisk in a
the mousse won’t set. Heat in the fridge to chill completely. figure-of-eight motion, trying
destroys bromelain, so using 2 Put the egg yolks and to avoid knocking the air out
tinned pineapple – which has remaining 80g sugar in a mixing of the mixture.
been heat treated – and bowl and use an electric mixer 5 Pour the pale yellow mousse
cooking it again for good to beat them until pale, thick into a container if you like,
measure means the gelatine and shiny (about 5 minutes). serving it scooped onto a plate
will be able to set the mousse. Set aside 60g of the double like I do, or pour it into your
Lightly whisk, label in cream in a small saucepan, then chosen serving bowls, then
DON’T
WASTE a bag and freeze the pour the rest into a separate cover and leave to set in the
IT
leftover egg whites bowl with the mascarpone. fridge for at least 8 hours.
to use in other recipes. Beat the mascarpone mixture Serve with a dollop of softly
to soft peaks (that flop over whipped cream and the
• 3 x 272g tins pineapple rings, when you remove the whisk). reserved finely chopped
drained (see Know-how) 3 Put the gelatine leaves in a tinned pineapple.
• 140g caster sugar bowl of cold water to soften. Per serving 693kcals, 57g fat
• 4 medium egg yolks Gently heat the 60g double (35g saturated), 5.2g protein,
• 300g double cream cream until steaming, then 38g carbs (38g sugars),
• 200g mascarpone remove from the heat. Lift 0.1g salt, 1.1g fibre
• 3 gelatine leaves (I used Dr the gelatine leaves out of
Oetker Platinum Leaf Gelatine) the water, squeeze to remove NEXT MONTH
• 200g whipping cream, the excess liquid, then add Don’t miss
whipped to soft peaks (when them to the hot cream and Find all Rosie’s menus created Rosie’s menu,
you lift out the whisk or whisk until dissolved. Leave exclusively for delicious. at complete with
an inspired
beaters the tips of the peaks until the cream has turned deliciousmagazine.co.uk/ barbecue
formed will flop over) warm instead of hot, then dinnerwithrosie chicken hack

Rosie’s get- DISH UP TO 3 DAYS

BEFORE
THE DAY BEFORE ON THE DAY

ahead plan Chilled cucumber

soup
• You can make and
chill both the soup and
• Prepare the prawns and
dressing
I believe you should be doing the pickled cucumber
minimal cooking while your
friends are in your home. Confit tuna salad • You can make • Cook the potatoes
with potatoes, and chill the • Make the tomato dressing
Restaurant chefs prep or cook
chickpeas and confit tuna • Assemble the salad
nearly everything before tomato dressing
service to make things easier,
and so should you. Here’s a
plan so you can get ahead, Pineapple • You can make the • Serve with chopped
have minimal stress and mousse pineapple mousse pineapple and whipped
enjoy time with your guests. cream

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 27
Sun-kissed
COOKERY
For thousands of years the islands of
Greece have developed a simple cuisine,
transforming home-grown produce with
local herbs and a little culinary magic.
Experience it for yourself with Greek
chef Carolina Doriti’s beguiling recipes

Classic tzatziki
(below) and
three variations
 greek island flavours.

“Tzatziki needs no introduction; it’s a

much- loved classic that pairs wonderfully
with many dishes. The key to a great
tzatziki is high-quality yogurt: it should be
well strained, thick and creamy. While the
classic version includes cucumber, it can
be made with various ingredients to suit
your taste. Always serve it chilled!”

TZATZIKI FOUR WAYS chopped dill. Serve drizzled

Serves 6-8 as a side (each with a little extra oil.
version) Per serving (for 8) 181kcals,
Prep time 10 min, plus 10-15 17g fat (5.1g saturated),
min salting (each version) 3.7g protein, 3.5g carbs (3.1g
sugars), 0.2g salt, 0.6g fibre
Classic tzatziki
• 400g strained greek yogurt
(we used Fage) Tzatziki with capers
• 1 large cucumber, halved Prepare exactly as above but
A BIT ABOUT CAROLINA DORITI lengthways and seeds mix in 1 tbsp chopped capers
Born in Greece, Carolina moved to scraped out with the dill in step 2, then
the UK in 1997 to study at university. • 3-4 garlic cloves, finely sprinkle a few on top to serve.
Since 2005 she’s worked as a chef and chopped Per serving (for 8) 182kcals,
restaurant consultant and has written • 2-3 tbsp white wine vinegar 17g fat (5.1g saturated), 3.8g
about food for various journals and • 90ml extra-virgin olive oil, protein, 3.5g carbs (3.1g sugars),
websites. She worked on Amazon plus extra to serve 0.3g salt, 0.6g fibre
Prime series My Greek Table and has • 1 tbsp finely chopped dill
appeared on international TV shows. Tzatziki with beetroot
The Greek Islands Cookbook is The cucumber water you and carrot
Carolina’s second publication. COOK’S
squeeze out is excellent • 300g strained greek yogurt
TIP
Follow her on Instagram added to a gin and tonic. (we used Fage)
@carolina_doriti • 2 small uncooked beetroot,
1 Spoon the yogurt into a fine peeled and coarsely grated
sieve set over a bowl or sink (you might want to wear
to remove any remaining water. gloves for this)
Coarsely grate the cucumber • 1 carrot, peeled and coarsely
into a colander. Sprinkle over grated
a little salt, then set aside • 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
over a plate for 10-15 minutes. • 3 tbsp cider vinegar
2 Squeeze the grated cucumber • 3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil,
in your hands to remove as plus extra to serve
much excess water as you • 2 tbsp finely chopped dill
can (see tip). Add both the • ½ tsp finely grated orange
cucumber and yogurt to a large zest
mixing bowl, then stir in the • Toasted sesame seeds
garlic and vinegar. Stirring to serve
vigorously, gradually add the
RECIPES CAROLINA DORITI olive oil. Season to taste with 1 Spoon the yogurt into a fine
PHOTOGRAPHS MANOS CHATZIKONSTANTIS salt and pepper, then mix in the sieve set over a bowl or sink →

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 29
to remove any remaining water. olive oil. Season to taste with Choriatiki (Greek salad)
Put the beetroot in a colander. salt and pepper, then mix in the Serves 2-4 (as a side or as
Sprinkle over a little salt, then cumin, mint and lemon zest. part of a mezze)
set aside for 10 minutes. Serve drizzled with extra oil and Prep time 20 min
2 Add both the beetroot and garnished with a sprig of mint.
yogurt to a large mixing bowl, Per serving (for 8) 82kcals, 7.2g For a Greek salad, the
COOK’S
then stir in the carrot, garlic fat (2.7g saturated), 1.9g protein, TIP tomatoes should be
and vinegar. Stirring vigorously, 1.8g carbs (1.3g sugars), ripe, sweet and never
gradually add the olive oil. 0.1g salt, 0.7g fibre refrigerated. Storing tomatoes
Season to taste with salt and in the fridge stops them ripening
pepper, then mix in the dill and properly and ruins their texture.
orange zest. Serve sprinkled If you can’t find ripe tomatoes,
with the sesame seeds and opt for the sweetest variety
drizzled with a little more oil. available – cherry tomatoes are
Per serving (for 8) 106kcals, a safe choice. When using
8.6g fat (3.2g saturated), 2.6g larger tomatoes, as they usually
protein, 4g carbs (3.6g sugars), do in Greece, I particularly love
0.2g salt, 1g fibre it when the tomato is peeled,
“Although choriatiki translates especially if it’s thick skinned.
as ‘from the village’, Greek
Tzatziki with avocado • 400g ripe tomatoes or cherry
and mint salad was invented in Athens. tomatoes, cut into bite-size
• 200g strained greek yogurt It’s summer on a plate! The pieces (see tip)
(we used Fage) • Pinch caster sugar (optional)
• 2 tbsp coarsely grated best part is what Greeks call • ½ cucumber, peeled, halved
cucumber, avoiding the seeds papara: dipping bread into lengthways and cut into
• 1 avocado 1.5cm chunks
• 3 tbsp lemon juice
the dressing to soak up • ½ green pepper, thinly sliced
• 2 garlic cloves, finely every last drop of the juices” • ½ onion, thinly sliced
chopped
• 1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil,
plus extra to serve Choriatiki
• 1 tsp ground cumin (Greek
• 2 tbsp finely chopped mint, salad)
plus a sprig to garnish
• 1 tsp finely grated
lemon zest

1 Spoon the yogurt into a fine

sieve set over a bowl or sink to
remove any remaining water.
Put the cucumber in a colander,
sprinkle over a little salt, then
set aside for 10-15 minutes.
2 Squeeze the grated cucumber
in your hands to remove as much
excess water as you can. Add
both the cucumber and yogurt
to a large mixing bowl. Add the
avocado and lemon juice to a
food processor and whizz until
smooth, then stir this into the
yogurt with the garlic. Stirring
vigorously, gradually add the
 greek island flavours.

• 6-7 black olives (such as

kalamata), pitted “Fourtalia originates from the Cycladic islands. The
• 4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 tbsp red wine vinegar
original recipe includes preserved pork or sausage
(optional) and lard, staples in every home. For a vegetarian
• 1½ tsp dried oregano or 2-3 option, replace the sausages with courgettes. Greeks
sprigs fresh oregano
• 150g feta or xinomizithra relish sharing this dish over leisurely conversation,
cheese and even with drinks, as it’s good at any time of day”
• 1-2 tbsp capers, rinsed
and dried
• Crusty bread to serve

1 Put the tomatoes in a bowl,

sprinkle with the sugar (if you
like), then set aside for 10-15
minutes. Add the cucumber,
pepper, onion and olives.
3 Mix 2 tbsp of the oil with the
vinegar (if using), then drizzle
over the salad. Sprinkle in 1 tsp
of the oregano, season with salt
and toss everything together.
4 Put the cheese on top of the
salad, then scatter over the
capers. Sprinkle with the rest of
the olive oil and oregano. Break
up the cheese in the bowl, then
serve immediately with bread.
Per serving (for 4) 277kcals,
23g fat (7.4g saturated), 8.1g
protein, 7.5g carbs (6.8g sugars),
1.5g salt, 2.8g fibre

Fourtalia (eggs with

sausages, potatoes
and mint)
Serves 2-4
Prep time 5 min, plus 15 min
soaking
Cook time 25 min

• 3 medium floury potatoes

Fourtalia (eggs
(such as king edward or maris with sausages,
piper), peeled and cut into potatoes and mint)
1.5cm cubes
• Olive oil to fry
• 2 thick, rustic sausages, cut
into 1cm thick coins
• 6 large eggs
• 2 tbsp finely chopped mint
leaves, plus extra to serve
• Crumbled feta to serve
(optional) →

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 31
 1 Put the cubed potatoes in
a large bowl of cold water with
“Yogurt is used in many local recipes,
a pinch of salt and leave to soak from sauces and dips to wonderful
for 15 minutes. Put a large, deep desserts such as this traditional cake
non-stick frying pan (one with a
lid) over a medium heat. Once named after the Greek word for yogurt.
hot, add a drizzle of oil and the After the cake is baked, it’s drizzled with
sliced sausages. Cook for a few
minutes, turning occasionally, syrup infused with lemon and chamomile”
until browned on all sides, then
transfer to a plate, leaving as Yiaourtini (semolina cake 10 minutes, before straining
much oil in the pan as you can. with yogurt, lemon and through a fine sieve and leaving
2 Drain the potatoes and pat chamomile syrup) it to cool to room temperature.
dry with kitchen paper. Add Serves 12 2 Grease the base and sides of
more oil to the pan until it’s 3cm Prep time 20 min the cake mould with a little
deep, then put over a medium- Cook time 1 hour butter. Heat the oven to 180°C/
high heat. Once shimmering hot, Specialist kit 20cm silicone 160°C fan/gas 4. Sift the flour,
carefully add the potatoes and Bundt cake mould baking powder and a pinch of
fry until crisp and golden – this salt into a bowl. In a separate
typically takes 8-12 minutes, I use silicone moulds bowl, beat the egg whites with
COOK’S
depending on the variety of the TIP as they’re less likely to an electric whisk until they form
potato. For the first 6-7 minutes, stick to a syrupy cake. stiff peaks (that don’t flop over
avoid stirring the potatoes when you lift out the beaters).
to allow them to cook evenly. • 200g unsalted butter, 3 In a third bowl, beat the 200g
Once they start to crisp up, softened, plus extra to grease butter and the sugar together
gently stir occasionally. • 100g plain flour using a balloon whisk until pale
3 While the potatoes fry, crack • 1 tsp baking powder and creamy. Add the egg yolks,
the eggs into a bowl, add the • 5 medium eggs, separated, one at a time, whisking well
mint and season with plenty at room temperature after each addition. Stir in the
of salt and pepper. Lightly • 150g granulated sugar lemon zest, vanilla and yogurt,
beat until just combined. • 1 tsp finely grated lemon zest then gently fold in the whisked
4 Once the potatoes are crisp, • 1 tsp vanilla extract egg whites with a silicone
carefully spoon or pour off • 200g greek yogurt spatula. Mixing gently, gradually
most of the oil from the pan. • 100g fine semolina sprinkle in the flour mixture,
Return the pan to a low-medium • Vanilla ice cream to serve followed by the semolina, then
heat. Arrange the cooked (optional) pour the batter into the mould,
sausages over the potatoes, shaking to distribute it evenly.
then pour over the beaten eggs. For the syrup 4 Bake for 50-60 minutes or
Cover and cook for 6 minutes • 3 tbsp lemon juice until golden brown. A skewer
or until the eggs are set. • 3-4 pared strips lemon zest, pushed into the centre should
5 Using a spatula, transfer avoiding the white bitter pith come out clean when it’s ready.
the fourtalia to a serving • 200g granulated sugar Drizzle the syrup over the cake
platter. Sprinkle over the • 1½ tbsp dried chamomile while it’s still hot and in the
mint and the feta, if using, (or empty the contents of mould, ensuring it’s evenly
immediately before serving. 4-5 chamomile teabags) distributed. Once all the syrup
Per serving (for 4) 389kcals, Recipes taken has been added, let the cake
19g fat (6.3g saturated), 20g from The 1 Begin by making the syrup. Put cool completely before removing
protein, 33g carbs (2.6g sugars), Greek Islands all the ingredients in a saucepan it from the mould and putting it
0.9g salt, 4.5g fibre Cookbook by over a medium heat with 250ml on a serving plate. Serve with
Carolina Doriti water. Gently simmer for 5-6 vanilla ice cream, if you like.
Go on your own Greek culinary (Murdoch minutes, stirring occasionally, Per serving 351kcals, 17g fat
odyssey with more sun-kissed Books £20) until the sugar has dissolved. (10g saturated), 6.7g protein,
recipes at deliciousmagazine. and tested by Remove from the heat and let 42g carbs (30g sugars),
co.uk/greekrecipes delicious. the syrup stand, covered, for 0.2g salt, 0.5g fibre

32 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
 greek island flavours.

Yiaourtini (semolina
cake with yogurt, lemon
and chamomile syrup)
Incredibly
 fruity summer.

Fig roll
crumble

The best biscuit

combined with
the best dessert!
Sweet fresh
figs make a juicy
and perfumed
crumble, and
adding fig rolls
to the topping
introduces a
touch of delicious
nostalgia

If you wait until autumn to make a crumble, you’re missing a trick. Summer fruit
is fabulous paired with a light, crunchy topping, as these juicy delights prove.
Plus: they’re all quick and easy, so you can enjoy more of those balmy evenings
RECIPES AND FOOD STYLING EMILY GUSSIN, POLLYANNA COUPLAND AND TOM SHINGLER PHOTOGRAPHS INDIA WHILEY-MORTON

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 35
 This super-simple pud allows bang
in-season strawberries to shine, amped
up with vanilla. The sweetness is teased
out with a little maceration and leaving
the tips of the berries exposed to lightly
caramelise in the oven. The ‘rubble’
is a simple shortbread mixture sprinkled
Fig roll crumble over the top, providing maximum
Serves 4 opportunity for crunch
Prep time 10 min
Cook time 20 min

• 10 small figs Strawberry and a squeeze of lemon juice,

• Squeeze lemon juice vanilla ‘rubble’ stirring until there are no dry
• 1 tsp caster sugar Serves 4 patches of sugar/cornflour left.
• 4 tbsp mascarpone to serve Prep time 10 min Fit the strawberries in the
Cook time 25 min baking dish in a snug single
For the crumble top Specialist kit 20cm round layer, tips pointing up (eat any
• 4 fig rolls baking dish that don’t fit). Set aside at room
• 50g plain flour temperature while you prepare
• 20g soft brown light sugar You can serve these as the rubble topping.
KNOW-
• 30g unsalted butter, chilled HOW individual portions in 2 Whizz the butter and caster
and cubed small ovenproof dishes. sugar in a food processor until
Maceration is a way to creamy (or beat together in a
BE A
1 Heat the oven to 200ºC/180ºC BETTER make your fruit fruitier. bowl with a wooden spoon).
COOK
fan/gas 6. For the crumble top, A light sprinkling of Add the flour and a pinch of
whizz the fig rolls in a food icing or caster sugar and just salt and pulse a few times (or
processor to a coarse, crumbly 20 minutes is all it takes to mix it in with a wooden spoon),
texture. Add the flour, sugar and leave your berries glistening taking care not to overwork
butter, then pulse to a rubble, and sweet. A slightly longer the mixture.
leaving some larger chunks. maceration will yield an intense 3 Use your hands to squish
2 Set aside one of the figs bright red syrup. the breadcrumb-like mixture
to garnish and halve the rest, into something more rubbly:
trimming the stalks. Tip into • 500g strawberries, ideally a combination of larger and
a snug-fitting baking tray, all the same size smaller pieces, a bit like gravel.
squeeze over the lemon juice, • 2 tbsp icing sugar If you have time, pinch off little
sprinkle over the sugar, then • ½ tbsp cornflour pieces of the dough and roll
toss together gently. Sit the • 1 tsp vanilla bean paste into small balls, putting them
figs cut-side up, scatter over • Squeeze lemon juice on a lined tray as you work.
the crumble top, then bake for • 65g unsalted butter, softened 4 Scatter the rubble over the
20 minutes. • 25g caster sugar strawberries, leaving the tips
3 Divide among bowls and top • 90g plain flour of the berries exposed. Bake for
with the mascarpone. Slice the • Clotted cream to serve 25-30 minutes until the juice
reserved fig. Add a slice of fig (optional) is bubbling around the edges
on top of the mascarpone, then and the topping is golden. Serve
drizzle over the beautiful pink 1 Heat the oven to 190°C/ with a scoop of clotted cream,
juices left in the tray to serve. 170°C fan/gas 5. Cut the green if you like.
Per serving 480kcals, 32g fat tops off the strawberries, giving Per serving 303kcals, 14g fat
(20g saturated), 5.8g protein, each one a flat base. Tip into (8.6g saturated), 2.9g protein,
41g carbs (28g sugars), a bowl and toss with the icing 37g carbs (19g sugars),
0.3g salt, 3g fibre sugar, cornflour, vanilla and 0.1g salt, 5.7g fibre →

36 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
 fruity summer.

Strawberry and
vanilla ‘rubble’
 Cherries are at their best
right now – bury them
under a chocolatey soil
full of cocoa and biscuits
to bring out their sweetness
and reimagine the retro
flavours of everyone’s
favourite gateau

Black Forest
crumble
 fruity summer.

The iconic summer

fruit duo of sweet
peaches and tart
raspberries make a
legendary crumble
filling. Add a
delicious almond
topping with a
surprise sprinkling
of cornflakes for
extra crunch and
you’re onto a winner

Peach melba
frangipane crumble
Serves 6
Prep time 15 min
Cook time 45 min
Specialist kit 1.5 to 2 litre
baking dish (about 15cm x
This is one 25cm)
peachy little
dish Out of season, you could
EASY
SWAPS use drained tinned
peach slices (2 x 411g
tins) and defrosted frozen
raspberries. Skip step 1 and
assemble as in step 3, adding
2 tbsp peach syrup, then bake.

• 500g peaches (about 3),

cut into 1.5cm wedges
(see Easy Swaps)
• 2 tbsp icing sugar
• 120g unsalted butter,
chilled and chopped
• 130g self-raising flour
• 80g ground almonds
• 40g golden caster sugar
• 250g raspberries
• 20g flaked almonds
• 15g cornflakes
• Crème fraîche or custard
to serve →

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 39
fruity summer.

1 Heat the oven to 200°C/ • 30g light brown soft sugar, Honey, apricot and bay
180°C fan/gas 6. Put the peach plus 2 tbsp leaf crumble
wedges in the baking dish, • 30g cocoa powder Serves 4
sprinkle with the icing sugar • 30g blanched hazelnuts, Prep time 10 min
and 1 tbsp water and toss roughly chopped Cook time 30 min
to mix. Bake for 10 minutes. • 30g cocoa nibs
2 Meanwhile, in a large bowl, • 6 Oreos or similar chocolate If you’ve never tried bay
BE A
rub the butter into the flour biscuits, roughly crushed BETTER leaf in a sweet context,
COOK
|and ground almonds until it • 20g dark chocolate chips now’s the time. A single
resembles chunky breadcrumbs. (70% cocoa solids) leaf adds a wonderfully floral
Stir in the caster sugar and • 700g cherries, pitted complexity to desserts.
a pinch of salt. (see Know-how)
3 Stir the raspberries into the • 2 tbsp hazelnut liqueur or • 600-700g apricots (about
peaches, then cover evenly with cherry brandy (optional) 2 punnets)
the crumble mixture. Scatter • Stracciatella or vanilla • 1 bay leaf
over the flaked almonds and ice cream to serve • 1 tbsp honey, plus extra to
cornflakes, then bake for 30-35 drizzle
minutes until golden. 1 Heat the oven to 200°C/ • 1 tbsp demerara sugar
Per serving 505kcals, 27g fat 180°C fan/gas 6. Rub the butter • 4 scoops frozen natural yogurt
(11g saturated), 8.9g protein, into the flour in a bowl until it or greek yogurt to serve
52g carbs (35g sugars), resembles breadcrumbs. Stir in
0.3g salt, 7.2g fibre the 30g sugar, the cocoa powder For the puffed wheat crumble
and a pinch of salt, then mix in • 100g plain flour
the nuts, cocoa nibs, biscuits • 75g demerara sugar, plus
and half the chocolate chips. extra for sprinkling
2 Put the cherries, 2 tbsp sugar, • 75g unsalted butter, chilled
the liqueur (if using) and a pinch and chopped
of salt in the baking dish. Mix, • 10g puffed wheat
then spread out evenly. Top with • 1 tbsp blanched hazelnuts
the crumble mix, scatter over
the remaining chocolate chips, 1 Chop half the apricots into
then bake for 30-35 minutes 1cm pieces, then halve the rest.
until darker and crisp on top. Add them all to a pan with the
Black Forest crumble Serve with plenty of ice cream. bay leaf, honey and the 1 tbsp
Serves 4-6 Per serving (for 6) 399kcals, sugar. Heat gently for 5 minutes
Prep time 15 min 20g fat (10g saturated), 5.8g until starting to break down.
Cook time 35 min protein, 46g carbs (31g sugars), 2 Heat the oven to 200ºC/
Specialist kit 1.5 to 0.3g salt, 5.3g fibre 180ºC fan/gas 6. For the puffed
2 litre baking dish wheat crumble, put the flour,
(about 15cm x 25cm) 75g sugar and butter in a bowl
The crumble party continues and rub the mixture between
If you don’t have a at deliciousmagazine.co.uk/ your thumbs and fingers until
KNOW-
HOW cherry pitter, you crumble you have a coarse, uneven
can use the thinner rubble. Stir in the puffed wheat
end of a chopstick to gently and hazelnuts. Transfer the
push the stones out. Or, if apricots to an oven tray or dish,
you find that tricky, halve then sprinkle evenly with the
the cherries and scoop out crumble and bake for 30
the pits with either your minutes. Serve with frozen
fingers or a teaspoon. yogurt and a drizzle of honey.
NEXT MONTH Per serving 427kcals, 18g fat
Get ready to
• 80g unsalted butter, chilled (10g saturated), 4.8g protein,
barbecue Indian-
and chopped style with 59g carbs (37g sugars),
• 100g self-raising flour Aktar Islam 0.1g salt, 4g fibre

40 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
Evoking the flavours of
a Greek breakfast, this
tasty fruit crumble is
perfect for a summer’s
day. Serve with a good
dollop of frozen yogurt
or thick greek yogurt
 The acid test
Riesling is one of the world’s most
revered white grapes, but it can be
misunderstood as a sickly-sweet wine.
Shane Jones shares just how good it
is. Plus: two worthy summer sippers

REFRESHING RIESLING
A BIT ABOUT Fine perfume, exuberant fruit, refreshing acidity, versatile in its
SHANE JONES expression of sweetness – that’s riesling. Yet wines from this notable
Shane is a WSET Certified white grape remain largely misunderstood. Pronounced ‘REEZ-ling’
Wine Educator with a and originating in Germany, the grape is planted in all the country’s
decade of experience across wine regions, producing wines that age well in the bottle and range all
the UK and Europe. He’s along the sweetness scale – dry, off-dry, medium, sweet and, frankly,
also a wine judge with the luscious. It also produces beautiful sparkling wines called sekt.
world’s largest consumer Resistant to cold winters and spring frosts, reisling loves Germany.
wine competition, There, the grapes ripen slowly and the special character of its acidity
Decanter World Wine remains bright. The sweet wines are never sickly and that acidity gives it
Awards. Follow Shane on longevity in the bottle. If you’re picking a German bottle, you need to
Insta at @shane_d_jones translate the arcane labels. Lovers of pudding wines should look out for
beerenauslese, trockenbeerenauslese and eiswein. Spätlese, kabinett
and auslese are trickier in terms of what sweetness to expect – here, let
“In terms of what the alcohol level guide you. Wines below 11% will have some sweetness,
becoming sweeter as the alcohol goes lower. For dry, target trocken,
sweetness to expect, while feinherb or halbtrocken range between off-dry and medium.
let the alcohol Alsace in France and Austria both champion high-quality examples
of riesling. Styles tend to be dry and medium bodied. Beyond Europe,
level guide you” the Clare and Eden Valleys of south Australia produce bone-dry versions.

3
These wines take on the ‘petrol-like’ aroma normally associated with
aged riesling, differentiating them from their European peers. In New
Zealand, Marlborough’s sunshine, offset by cool temperatures, allows
accessible styles with tropical notes. Canada is renowned for ice wine
(the same style as eiswein) while in the USA, Finger Lakes in New York
and Columbia Valley in Washington favour dry or off-dry examples.
Whether you like it dry, sweet or somewhere in between, riesling
GREAT
RIESLINGS

RIGHT NOW
TO BUY
does have all of us covered, as my three picks [right] prove. Prost!

WHAT TO EAT WITH RIESLING

The classic pairing Something different
MOULES MARINIÈRES ANDI OLIVER’S
Dry riesling is a proven CARIBBEAN
match for shellfish such ROAST PORK (LEFT)
as mussels. The brisk This highly aromatic dish
acidity cuts through the enhances riesling’s fruit
richness of the cream purity. Seek out a bottle
while allowing the with some sweetness like
delicate flavours of the German kabinett to level
mussels to shine. the fiery scotch bonnets.

42 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
 something to drink.

WINE DEBUNKED
WHY DO WE CHILL WHITE BUT NOT RED?
The theory goes that chilling a white emphasises its acidity, which is
generally to be desired. Red wines, though, are known for their tannins.
These compounds are also found in strong black tea and are said to
make a wine ‘chewy’. While you expect tannins in a red, they need
to be balanced out with smoother notes, but if you chill a tannic red
it will overemphasise those tannins, making the wine taste harshly
bitter (ever enjoyed a stewed cuppa that’s gone cold? Exactly).
Because white wines are served chilled, we tend to associate them
with summer, but some reds chill well, too. Not tannic ones but bright,
fruity reds that are light or medium-bodied, such as beaujolais and
Loire cabernet franc. Don’t chill them too long, though – 45 minutes
in the fridge should do it, or you’ll dull those lovely flavours too much.

FIT FOR A KING

If you’re a fiend for ginger,
you need to get a bottle of
The King’s Ginger on your bar
cart. It will elevate a flute
of so-so sparkling wine with
its iconic zesty tingle and
bring much joy (and spice) to
your Friday night margarita.
This sweet-and-spicy liqueur
would even be welcome in
a ginger-adjacent dessert,
so treat yourself – it’s got
royal approval, after all.
The King’s Ginger 29.9%,
£25.50 for 500ml, Waitrose

SOFTIE OF
THE MONTH
Van Hunks Non-Alcoholic
Get more wine advice
Sparkling Wine from
at deliciousmagazine.
South Africa is surprising
co.uk/wine
beyond measure with
its quality, fruit-forward
character and keen
AROUND A TENNER MID RANGE SPLURGE
minerality. Once it was
Villa Maria Private Weingut Müller Riesling Weinrieder Riesling
opened at delicious. HQ one
ADDITIONAL WORDS: LES DUNN (WINE DEBUNKED), ANTHONY

Bin Riesling 2024, Trocken 2022, Mosel, Eiswein Ried

sunny afternoon, this subtly
Marlborough, New Germany 11% Schneiderberg 2016,
salmon-pink beauty didn’t
NOONAN (SOFTIE), LOUISA DAVIES (KING’S GINGER)

Zealand 11.5% This has an intriguing Niederösterreich,

last 30 minutes. If that isn’t
A slight flirtation with smoky aroma that evokes Austria 9.5%
a ringing endorsement,
sweetness makes this the slate soils on which This ice wine (dessert
we don’t know what is.
off-dry but the high acidity the vines are planted. wine made with grapes
£14 for 750ml, Amazon
keeps it crisp and juicy. It’s Savoury preserved frozen on the vine) is
and vanhunksdrinks.com
playful with fresh tropical lemons are joined by sweet wine heaven. Rich
fruit. A great aperitif style lime, white peaches and with honey, dried apricot,
that should also work well green apple notes. £20, pineapple and mango.
with a range of nibbles. Butterworth & Penzer; £45.43 for 375ml, NEXT MONTH
£11, Waitrose butterworthpenzer.com lantstreetwine.com Session wines for summer
 A booze-free paloma with

SPENCER MATTHEW
The Made In Chelsea star turned entrepreneur,
documentary presenter, podcaster and multi-
marathon-runner shares lessons from his sober
journey, as well as food memories from his travels

From the age of six to 10, bloated. It’s like you’re drinking
I lived on St Barts, an island in pints but not getting the benefit.
the French West Indies. I spent I wanted to create sophisticated
a lot of time in the kitchen in our alc-free alternatives to cocktails.
family hotel, Eden Rock. We had The 30 marathons
a chef who worked there called Self-loathing and years of
Jean-Claude Dufour, who has his disappointment in myself in 30 days was
own restaurant in St Barts now. were replaced with extreme the rst time in
I used to sit in his kitchen for pride and satisfaction at the
hours, watching him cook, and I end of my 30 marathons in 30 my life I felt I’d
used to just really, really enjoy his days (Spencer’s Great Desert actually done
company. I learned a lot from him. Challenge). I noticed a huge shift
in the way my family saw me and something that
Everyone thinks their mother I had people screaming at me could have inspired
is an amazing chef, but my from cars. It was the first time
mum really is a great cook. in my life I felt I’d actually done
some people to
Anyone who has had my mum’s something that could inspire change their lives”
roast lamb recognises it as a kind people to change their lives. I
of award-winning experience – know that sounds big headed, but
it’s my death row meal. She’s a that’s how it felt.
beautiful host and puts everybody SPENCER’S ALCOHOL-FREE
before herself. We were always I’d lost control of my drinking COCKTAIL CABINET
really well looked after by her. and it was having an effect When I drink alcohol, I love
with jobs I wasn’t getting. white wine and tequila, but
I drank to excess regularly The people who really loved me, I drink a lot of CleanCo
for many years. CleanCo, my I could see them drifting a little cocktails. My go-to is either a
alcohol-free spirits company, bit or not being quite so sure G&T, a hot-honey margarita
NEXT MONTH was born out of a desire to fix about me any more. It was a big or a paloma. The latter two
INTERVIEW: LAURA ROWE

Sunny chat that problem in my own life. wake-up call. To go from that are made with our Clean T,
and a frosty When I decided to go teetotal for to crossing the finish line of an alcohol-free tequila
white wine
some time, I got into drinking the 30th desert marathon as a alternative made with blue
with weather
presenter alcohol-free beer, but if you have world-record-holding athlete, agave – it’s quite sharp and
Carol Kirkwood four or five of them, you still feel having raised £630,000 for has great alcohol notes.
 star interview.

children mostly, I cried when

I got to the hotel.

The goat’s head we ate on

marathon 26 wasn’t nice.
We’d had a full day of flies, where

WS
we had to continuously move to
keep the flies off us. At 6.30pm,
we were served a boiled goat’s
head – and goats’ faces are not
notoriously fleshy. We were
kind of just picking boiled skin.

When I got home from the

desert, I had four double
bacon Bleecker burgers.
Yesterday I had two pizzas
covered in hot honey. The way
I train, I need to give myself the
best fuel I can, so I eat a lot of fats,
carbs and protein. By the way, if
you’ve not drenched pizza in hot
honey, it’s time to start living.

On my podcast Untapped we
interview elite athletes about
mindset, discipline, routine and
nutrition. Jake Dearden, a Red
Bull athlete, shared some fuelling
tips I then used in the London
Marathon. It was the best
executed run of my life and I’d
attribute 20% of that to his advice.

It was in the desert where

I decided to pursue Untapped.
If you care about what you’re
building and it also has a small
knock-on effect to help people
make better decisions in their
lives or even provide a way of
drinking less alcohol, your
purpose feels meaningful instead
of what I was doing before, which
was trying to entertain you for
a laugh. I loved those shows,
but what we’re doing now is
more meaningful to me.

Spencer is the founder of CleanCo

and podcast co-host of Untapped.
Watch his documentary, Finding
Michael, on Disney+. Follow him
on Instagram @spencermatthews

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 45
Be a Better Cook
Learn jerk chicken and the ultimate BBQ burger, dive into Bangladeshi
cooking and make our DIY brown sauce. Plus: create lobster crumpets with
our new resident chefs and plait your way to strawberry brioche perfection

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 47
THIS MONTH: PREPPING LOBSTER & MAKING CRUMPETS

Jack Croft
and Will
Murray’s
nose-to-tail
cookery
course
PHOTOGRAPHS INDIA WHILEY-MORTON
Jack

Will Lobster crumpet

 chefs in residence.

A big welcome to our new chefs in

residence, Jack Croft and Will Murray,
masters of ‘conscious culinary
creativity’. With these guys, little is
wasted, and the often disregarded
bits and pieces get a chance to shine
in sublime dishes that have made
their three London restaurants
a hot ticket. The pair kick off their
residency in style with luxurious
(but use-every-bit) lobster crumpets

W
hat we’re trying to demonstrate here PREPPING LOBSTER LIKE A PRO
is that lobster is one of those beautiful This method of preparing lobster is how we would
products where there’s very little do it in the restaurant. It’s a great way to test
waste. In the restaurant the only bits yourself and learn a neat skill – plus you get far
we throw away are the antennae and more for your money when you prepare the lobster
the dead man’s fingers (the feathery gills in the yourself. That said, you could simplify things if you
lobster’s head). The claws, body and tail get gently wanted. You could just halve the lobster and cook it
poached, then everything else (including the shells) on the barbecue, then pull out the meat. You could
is used to make a super flavourful lobster butter. boil it whole and extract the meat afterwards.
Hardly anything is wasted and if you cook this It depends how much you want to test yourself
on a Sunday afternoon, your whole house is going and try out new skills.
to smell just amazing. It’s awesome.
WHY LIVE LOBSTER IS BEST
The one thing we’d suggest avoiding is buying
lobster pre-cooked. The real flavour of this
dish comes from the lobster butter, and if you
A BIT ABOUT JACK CROFT AND WILL MURRAY make it with pre-cooked shells they’ll have
Jack and Will bonded as young chefs working at Dinner By Heston lost a lot of their aroma. It really is worth the
Blumenthal, where their shared love of creating dishes from bits effort of sourcing and cooking a raw lobster. If
normally thrown away, such as leek tops, fish heads and lemon peel, you’re not up for killing it yourself, the fishmonger
created many a creative staff meal or snack. will; just be sure to cook it on the same day.
In 2019 they got together with hospitality entrepreneur James
Robson, another fan of sustainable, innovative cooking, and created THE HOMEMADE CRUMPETS
Fallow, first as a pop-up and now a permanent restaurant in St James’s, The crumpets are there because there’s no better
London. It’s been a huge hit, making no-waste cooking exciting, and vessel to soak up all that delicious butter. They’re
even cool. Fallow was joined in 2023 by Fowl, a ‘beak-to-feet’ chicken like little sponges. Homemade crumpets are
restaurant just around the corner. In 2024 the partners opened Roe in completely different from ones you can buy, and
Canary Wharf. It follows the same nose-to-tail, root-to-tip ethos as its it’s a nice little technique to learn. →
sister restaurants, with rare-breed meat and carefully sourced fish on
the menu. Follow Jack and Will on Instagram @herd.chefs,
where they share recipes, tips and tricks

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 49
A B C

D E

F G H
 chefs in residence.

“This dish is on the menu at our restaurant, Fallow. We’ve used

different seafood over the years: brown crab, spider crab, octopus...
We decided to put lobster on it because it’s an ingredient no one
thinks of as being seasonal. But it’s in season right now; in the
summer months lobsters migrate inshore so they’re easier to catch”

Lobster crumpets For the crumpets 1 To make the yogurt, put all
Serves 4 • 40ml warm water the ingredients in a blender
Prep time 1 hour 20 min, • 160ml whole milk, warmed and whizz until smooth. Keep
plus 2 hours 45 min proving • 13g fresh yeast (or 6.5g dried) in the fridge until needed.
Cook time 1 hour • ½ tsp caster sugar 2 To make the crumpets, whisk
Specialist kit Probe • ½ tsp fine salt the warm water, milk and yeast
thermometer; kitchen scissors; • ½ tsp bicarbonate of soda in a mixing bowl using a balloon
nutcracker (optional); muslin • 135g plain flour whisk. Ensure the water and milk
cloth (optional); crumpet ring • Vegetable oil to fry don’t exceed 40°C (check with
a thermometer) otherwise the
You can make the For the lobster heat could kill the yeast. Set
MAKE
AHEAD yogurt, cook the • 50g leek, roughly chopped aside in a warm place for 45
lobster and make the • 50g round shallots (about 2 minutes to activate the yeast.
lobster butter up to a day in shallots), roughly chopped 3 In another bowl, mix the
advance, keeping everything • 50g carrot (about 1 medium sugar, salt and bicarb into the
covered in the fridge. carrot), roughly chopped flour, then whisk this into the
You can buy live lobster • 50g onion (about ½ small milk mixture. Whisk well until
KNOW-
HOW from good fishmongers. onion), roughly chopped the batter is thick and falls off
The fishmonger will kill • Bowl ice-cold water the whisk in ribbons that slowly
it for you if you want – just be • 1 live/raw lobster (about sink into the surface [A]. Cover
sure to cook it the same day. 750g – see Know-how) and set aside for 2 hours at
Kombu seasoning features room temperature to prove –
in a lot of Will and Jack’s For the lobster butter you’ll see the bubbles forming.
dishes, and is so popular • 240g unsalted butter 4 Meanwhile, cook the lobster.
they sell jars of it online • 40ml cold-pressed Add all the chopped veg to a
(shop.fallowrestaurant.com). rapeseed oil large pan of water and bring
You can substitute it with a • Pinch ground mace to 90°C (a bare simmer). Set up
pinch of salt. • Pinch cayenne pepper the iced water alongside. If the
You’ll have some of the • Pinch kombu seasoning lobster is live, use a large heavy
DON’T
WASTE lobster butter left over (see Know-how) knife to cut through its head [B],
IT
and it’s a great thing to • Dash Worcestershire sauce using the crease between the
have in your culinary arsenal. lobster’s eyes to guide you. This
Chill what remains until solid, For the salad will instantly kill the lobster.
then cut into cubes and keep in • 20ml white wine vinegar (The legs may move a little after
a bag or tub in the freezer for (ideally chardonnay vinegar) it’s been dispatched).
up to 3 months. The cubes can • 1 tsp lemon juice 5 Twist off the claws and set
be used direct from frozen • 80ml vegetable oil aside, then do the same with
to enrich sauces or for frying • 2g fine salt the tail [C] (you may need to
fish and shellfish. • 2g caster sugar use a knife to gently separate
• ½ apple, finely sliced the tail from the body). Push
For the lime pickle yogurt • ½ fennel bulb, finely sliced a teaspoon handle into the top
• 60g greek yogurt • Mixed herbs to garnish (Will of the tail, between the shell
• 40g lime pickle and Jack use nasturtium and the flesh, to keep it straight
• 1 tsp caster sugar leaves, Vietnamese coriander when it cooks. Using the initial
and other micro leaves) cut you made in the head to →

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 51
chefs in residence.

I J K

guide you, cut through the rest towel and bash with a rolling bowl, then gradually stream in
of the body lengthways to halve pin). Add half the butter to a the oil while whisking constantly.
it. Discard the antennae, gills large pan over a medium heat; Season with the salt and sugar,
and entrails. The feathery gills once melted, add the shells. then add the apple and fennel
are at the sides, above the legs, Cook, stirring, for about and lightly toss.
and the entrails are near the 5 minutes until the shells are 11 Now it’s time to assemble
head – they’re clearly different evenly roasted, then add the the crumpets. Put two thirds of
from the meat. You now have the remaining butter, oil, spices the lobster butter in a medium
tail, claws, legs and body/head and Worcestershire sauce. saucepan and gently warm
pieces [D]. Set the body/head Simmer for 10 minutes [E], through. You can reheat the
and legs aside in the fridge to then cover and set aside, off lobster meat however you like
make the butter. the heat, to infuse for 1 hour. – at our restaurant, Roe, we
6 Put the tail and claws in the 8 Strain the lobster butter warm it on the barbecue [I],
simmering water. Lift the tail through a fine sieve into a then drench it in the melted
out after 6 minutes and the bowl [F]. Ideally, strain it again butter [J], but you can warm it
claws after 12-14 minutes through a muslin cloth to get it in the melted butter on the hob.
(depending on their size), really clear. Discard the shells Put a crumpet on each serving
putting both in the iced water and put the butter in the fridge. plate and spoon over some
immediately. Once fully cooled, 9 By now your crumpet batter lobster butter. Slice the lobster
remove the lobster meat from should be ready. Put a large, meat and arrange it on top, then
the shells. Do this carefully; you heavy (ideally cast iron) skillet pile on the apple and fennel
want to keep the claws and tail or frying pan over a medium salad. Add little dollops of the
in whole pieces. Use kitchen heat and coat the base with oil. lime pickle yogurt, then spoon
scissors or a small sharp knife Add an oiled crumpet ring, then over even more lobster butter.
to cut along the underside of ladle in enough of the batter to Finish with the herb garnish.
the tail shell, then pull the meat come up about halfway up the Per serving 411kcals, 22g fat
out – remove and discard any sides of the ring. Leave to cook, (12g saturated), 21g protein,
tube-like pieces. Using scissors undisturbed, for about 5 minutes 32g carbs (7g sugars),
or a nutcracker, crack the claws or until the top of the crumpet 2.3g salt, 2.6g fibre
to remove the meat. Keep the looks dry and has lots of little
shells and transfer the meat, holes [G]. Remove the ring, flip
NEXT MONTH covered, to the fridge. the crumpet [H] and cook for
Jack and Will 7 For the lobster butter: put all 30 seconds, then set aside.
show how to the reserved shells in a blender Repeat to make 4 crumpets.
stuff chicken or food processor and pulse a 10 To make the salad, put the Look out for a video of Jack and
wings with a
crispy-spicy few times to break them up a vinegar and lemon juice in a Will making these cracking
recipe little (or wrap in a clean tea small (ideally round-bottomed) crumpets on our social channels

52 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
 what’s online.

Go big on
summer’s
bounty!
Discover how to make the
most of seasonal produce
at deliciousmagazine.co.uk
STRAWBERRIES
Enjoy summer’s jewels in a classic
jam, tart and cheesecake – or give
them a savoury spin with burrata and
tomatoes or Pimm’s-glazed chicken.

COURGETTES
Have you tried our famous courgettes
& ricotta on toast (bottom right) yet?
Or use in bakes, pastas and more…

GOOSEBERRIES
Chefs love the sweet-sharp balanced
flavour these berries bring – scatter
over focaccia, pep up pork or poach
with elderflower for a creamy fool.

BLACKCURRANTS &
REDCURRANTS
Go trad with summer pudding, sorbet
and crème de cassis or add a twist
to salads, biscuits or duck.

SCAN THE
QR CODE
WITH YOUR
PHONE

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 53
 Two delicious.
experts offer their
version of the
fast-food classic.
But whose will
you be grilling on
your barbecue?

BBQ CHEESEBURGER
‘ABOMINATION’
PROCESSED
CHEESE IS
AN INTEGRAL
MELTY GLUE

20% FAT BRITISH

BEEF MINCE
FOR A JUICY
CENTRE AND
CARAMELISED
CRUST

PIQUANT
HOMEMADE
BURGER SAUCE
FOR SWEETNESS
AND TANG

TRAD
 the big cook-off.

SWEET BRIOCHE
TO BALANCE
SMOKY CHORIZO
AND PEPPERS

A GLORIOUS VEIL
OF MINGLED
MELTED CHEESES

MINCED BEEF CHUCK

MEETS CHORIZO
FOR THE ULTIMATE
JUICY PATTY

SHARP AND SWEET

PICKLED WALNUT
ROMESCO

TWIST
deliciousmagazine.co.uk 55
 TEAM TRAD Ultimate barbecue
cheeseburger
of the grill (directly above the
hottest coals or flame). Arrange
A sizzling burger on a barbecue Makes 4 the onion slices on a slightly
is, for me, the sound of summer. Prep time 10 min cooler part of the barbecue.
Combine it with a couple of Cook time 10 min Leave everything to cook,
mates, cans of beer and a tinny Specialist kit Barbecue undisturbed, for 3 minutes.
bluetooth speaker blasting out 5 Use a fork and a spatula to
songs from my youth and I’m in You can cook these carefully flip the onion slices
NO
British Summer Time heaven. But that ethereal BBQ? in a griddle pan over – don’t worry if they break up
moment can come crashing down if the burger a high heat instead. a little or get a little charred.
isn’t up to scratch. A burnt, dry patty in a torn- If they’re getting burnt too
apart bun with a slice of cold cheese doesn’t do • 1 large onion quickly, sprinkle them with
it for me, and I’ve yet to have a fancy burger • Vegetable oil to drizzle water (although some charring
that’s stood up to the classic cheeseburger. • 500g beef mince, at least is fine). Flip the burgers and
HEAD OF FOOD TOM SHINGLER 20% fat, at room temperature top each one with a slice
• 4 processed cheese slices of cheese. Leave to cook for
• 4 sesame seed buns another 3 minutes while you
BETWEEN THE BUN • Butter, softened, to spread split open the buns and spread
There’s a beautiful purity about a cheeseburger, the cut sides with butter.
especially when given a lick of flame. Barbecuing For the burger sauce 6 After the 3 minutes, add the
the patty gives it that smoky finish, as well as the • 2 tbsp mayonnaise buns, cut-side down, and grill
caramelised gnarly crust you usually only get • ½ tbsp ketchup for 20 seconds until lightly
from ‘smashing’ the patty – but with the bonus • ½ tbsp American mustard toasted. Sit them on a board
of a juicy centre. Combined with gooey cheese, • ½ tsp smoked paprika or plate, then add a spoonful
a piquant sauce and crunch from pickle, it creates • ½ tsp celery salt of sauce to each, followed by
something greater than its parts. The simplicity, • ½ tsp onion granules a burger, cheese-side up. Put an
however, means you have to nail each element. • 4 gherkin slices, finely onion slice on top, then another
chopped, plus a splash of spoonful of the burger sauce
HOW I DID IT their brine (and extra gherkins (and more gherkins, if you like).
A great burger hinges on the patty. You want the for the burgers, if you like) Add the bun lids, then wrap
mince to be 20% fat – any less and it’ll be dry and in baking paper or foil. Wait a
crumbly. Don’t buy pre-formed patties; they’re 1 Light the barbecue. If using a minute, then unwrap and enjoy.
too dense and processed. Lightly work the mince gas barbecue, wait until the grill Per burger 680kcals, 43g fat
into a disc, then make an indent in the top; this is red-hot; if using charcoal, wait (16g saturated), 40g protein,
counteracts the beef ‘ballooning’ out as it cooks. until the coals are glowing white. 31g carbs (8g sugars), 2.6g salt,
Processed cheese is an abomination in every 2 Meanwhile, mix all the sauce 2.9g fibre →
scenario except on a burger, where it’s an integral ingredients together with a big
thing. Melty without being greasy, it acts as a pinch of salt and pepper, then
sort of rich, creamy glue to hold everything set aside. Cut 4 slices (around
together. Your burger sauce is the third most 0.5cm thick) from the centre of
important element, providing sweetness and the onion, then finely chop the
tang to cut through the rich meat and cheese. rest and add to the sauce. Brush
PHOTOGRAPHS: NATO WELTON. FOOD STYLING: EMILY GUSSIN

That’s all you need for a great burger, but I add the onion slices with a little
a thick ring of onion too. Grilling a disc of onion vegetable oil, then set aside.
at the same time as your burgers gives you the full 3 Divide the mince into 4 balls
range of onion goodness: a little bit raw in places, weighing 125g each. Flatten
beautifully caramelised in others, then charred each into a disc that’s about the
and blackened where it’s licked by fire. It offers same diameter as the buns. Use
crunch, sweetness and smokiness all at once. your thumb to make an indent
Brioche buns are too cakey and sweet, so go for in the centre of each patty. Turn to p120 for a scintillating side
sesame seed. Finally, wrap the finished burger in 4 When the barbecue is up to dish to go with this, then visit
foil and let it rest for a minute so the residual heat temperature, season the burgers deliciousmagazine.co.uk/
and steam stick everything together. It’s what heavily with salt on both sides bbqdesserts to find some
elevates a burger from good to outstanding. and add to the hottest part fire-friendly puds

56 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
 the big cook-off.

“A classic burger that prioritises technique over

newfangled additions. The holy trinity of beef, cheese
and burger sauce is everything you want in the
greatest culinary export the USA has given the world”
the big cook-off.

TEAM TWIST “If you’re at my house this summer,

expect this Spanish-inspired, partner-
There’s very little I don’t ‘twist’
in cooking. More ingredients = barbecuer-proof (sorry, partner)
more flavour, texture, aroma. spin on the traditional burger”
While I love a classic barbecued
burger, there’s nowhere to hide Barbecued chorizo 3 Meanwhile, make the romesco.
when things go wrong. If the burger with pickled In a blender, whizz together 250g
meat isn’t good quality or the fat ratio isn’t right, walnut romesco and of the peppers with the walnut
or someone butchers the cooking, you’re left with manchego melt halves, pickled walnuts, garlic
a flavourless puck. So, if you’re at mine, expect Serves 4 and oil until smooth. Slice the
this Spanish-inspired, partner-barbecuer-proof Prep time 20 min, plus up to remaining pepper into strips.
(sorry, partner) spin on the traditional. 1 hour to come to temperature 4 Cook the burgers over the
EDITORIAL DIRECTOR LAURA ROWE Cook time 10 min hottest part of the barbecue
Specialist kit Barbecue (directly above the hottest
coals or flame) for 4 minutes
FLAVOUR AND FAT HACK You can cook these on each side. Leave to rest for
NO
I’ve experimented with bits in burgers but there’s BBQ? in a griddle pan over a few minutes before you load
little that adds to the experience. Because a) we’re a high heat instead. up the buns.
all here to taste the beef! b) bits can affect how the Stir the romesco into 5 Meanwhile, in a small pan over
NEXT
patty holds together. The exception? More meat. TIME pasta with butter beans a medium heat or on the cooler
For a shortcut to flavour and juiciness, my trick is and lots of black pepper. side of the barbecue, melt the
chorizo. This Spanish sausage does all the hard two cheeses, stirring regularly.
work for you – it’s ready seasoned with salt, garlic • 440g beef chuck with 15-20% Once melted and combined,
and paprika, and the fat acts as a natural baster. fat, minced twice (see How remove from the heat.
I Did It) or 15-20% fat ready 6 Split the buns, add them
HOW I DID IT ground beef mince cut-side down to the barbecue
Since we’re using chorizo too, mince with 15-20% • 160g cooking chorizo, skin and grill for 20 seconds until
fat is fine. I get mince from my local butcher, removed lightly toasted. Spread the tops
Ginger Pig (available nationally online). Ask your • 375g roasted red peppers, with aioli, if using, and the
butcher to mince beef chuck (a flavourful and from a jar or from the bases with the romesco. Top
cheap shoulder cut) twice over for a finer texture, barbecue (see How I Did It) with a burger patty, pour over
more even fat distribution and a firmer patty – • 80g walnut halves the manchego melt and sprinkle
although ready ground will work perfectly well. • 70g (about 3) pickled walnuts with pepper. Top with a few
Remove the meat from the fridge, make the • 1 large garlic clove rocket leaves and the red pepper
patties and store them at room temperature up • 50g extra-virgin olive oil strips, then close the buns.
to an hour before cooking. This will help avoid • 100g manchego cheese, Per burger 853kcals, 57g fat
shocking the meat over the intense heat, giving coarsely grated (22g saturated), 48g protein,
you a more tender burger. While it’s tempting to • 4 tbsp cream cheese 40g carbs (17g sugars),
serve a burger straightaway, rest it a few minutes. • 4 brioche buns, halved 3.1g salt, 4.7g fibre
In my twist on the sauce, you get the sharpness, • 4 tbsp aioli (optional)
sweetness and creaminess of burger sauce with • 4 handfuls rocket
a romesco of raw and pickled walnuts (Nikki
Segnit notes their affinity with beef in her 1 Light the barbecue. If using a
Flavour Thesaurus). Roasted peppers from a jar gas barbecue, wait until the grill
are good, but barbecuing whole fresh ones offers is red-hot; if using charcoal, wait
extra sweetness (grill until blackened, cover in until the coals are glowing white.
a bowl to cool, then peel and deseed). 2 In a large mixing bowl, mash
No plastic cheese please – instead a sauce of the mince and chorizo together
manchego and cream cheese that drapes with a clean hand until the
beautifully over our patties. Rocket adds chorizo is evenly distributed. Whose recipe is tempting you
peppery punch while the sweetness of brioche Divide into 4 balls and shape more? Let us know and share your
buns balances the heat of chorizo and chimes into 2cm thick patties. Set aside results on our social channels or at
with the sweetness of the peppers in the romesco. for up to an hour. [email protected]

58 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
SUMMER COOKING

stuff

PHOTOGRAPHS INDIA WHILEY-MORTON

 the project.

Jamaican jerk isn’t just a hot-spicy

method of flavouring meat for the
barbecue – it’s a way of life. So chill
a few cans of Red Stripe, fire up
the coals and let Dom Taylor show
you how to do it properly. He’s
even sharing what could become
your new favourite barbecue side

Jerk chicken
Serves 4
Prep time 20 min, plus
overnight marinating
Cook time 1 hour

You need to start the

MAKE
AHEAD recipe a day ahead. The
marinade and sauce can
both be made up to 24 hours in
advance and kept in the fridge.
To get the best out of
DOM’S
TIPS jerk chicken, you want
to cook it slowly,
turning and basting it regularly
with the jerk sauce. It will take
30-45 minutes for bone-in
chicken, so you don’t want your
barbecue so hot it’ll burn the
outside to a crisp before the
centre is cooked through. “The marinade for jerk is only half the story;
Don’t worry too much about
the chicken charring and turning
the cooking over coals and pimento wood
black – this is just the marinade smoke is just as important. Pimento wood
absorbing the fragrant smoke can be hard to find in the UK, but throwing
and the sugars caramelising.
It’s all flavour and that charred soaked thyme, bay leaves and cinnamon
smokiness is the perfect onto the coals helps replicate the flavour”
accompaniment to the fragrant
flavours of the marinade.
Weather not playing
KNOW-
HOW ball for a barbecue? A BIT ABOUT DOM TAYLOR
You can roast the jerk Born in south London with Jamaican and Saint Lucian roots, Dom honed
chicken in a 200°C/180°C fan/ his cheffing skills around the world before returning to the capital to work
gas 6 oven for 35-40 minutes, as a head chef in luxury hotels. His passion for Caribbean cuisine saw
then give it 5-7 minutes under Michel Roux Jr pick him as the winner of Five Star Kitchen: Britain’s Next
a hot grill to char the skin. Great Chef (Channel 4, 2023). Chef Dom opened The Good Front Room
The pimento tree is also in Michel’s restaurant at the Langham hotel, showcasing Caribbean cuisine
known as the allspice tree in a fine-dining setting, and his six-month residency was so popular it was
(Pimenta dioica), part of the extended for four more months. Dom’s latest venture is Marvee’s Food Shop
myrtle family and native to the in Ladbroke Grove. Named after his mum, Marveline, it celebrates the food
West Indies. The dried ground → and culture of the Caribbean. Follow Dom on Instagram @chefdomtaylor

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 61
berries are well known as a 1 Begin by making the marinade.
spice, but in the Caribbean Put all the ingredients in a
the fragrant leaves are used blender or food processor
in cooking too, while the wood and whizz to a thick paste,
is burned to cook jerk. scraping down the sides as
You can use any cut needed (see Make Ahead).
EASY
SWAPS of chicken, but bone-in 2 Make deep slashes all over
is easier to get right the chicken legs, put them in a
as it stays juicier for longer. bowl, then season liberally with
Boneless cuts will cook faster. salt. Add the jerk marinade and
massage it into the chicken
• 4 chicken legs legs. Cover and chill overnight.
• Thyme sprigs, bay leaves and 3 The next day, make the jerk
cinnamon sticks, soaked in sauce. Pour the oil into a
cold water for 30 minutes medium saucepan over
• Lime wedges to serve a medium heat, then add the
onion, garlic and ginger. Fry for
For the marinade 5 minutes until soft, then add
• 3 tbsp pimento (allspice) the pimento berries, scotch
berries bonnet, cinnamon and thyme
• 1 tbsp black peppercorns leaves. Cook for 1 minute, then
• 1 tsp ground cinnamon add the remaining ingredients.
• 1 tsp ground ginger Bring to a simmer and cook for
• 1 tsp ground coriander 15-20 minutes. Leave to cool,
• 1 tsp celery salt then whizz in a blender until
• 2 tbsp thyme leaves smooth (see Make Ahead).
• 6 garlic cloves 4 To cook the chicken, light the
• 4 spring onions barbecue and wait until the
• 5cm piece ginger coals are glowing white. Throw
• 3 scotch bonnet chillies the soaked thyme, bay and
• Finely grated zest and juice cinnamon directly on the coals.
1 lime Place the chicken legs on the
• 1 tbsp distilled malt vinegar cooking grate and cook, turning
or cider vinegar regularly, for 30-45 minutes
• 2 tbsp soft dark brown sugar (depending on how hot your
• 1 tbsp vegetable oil barbecue is). Decant some of
the sauce into a little bowl and
For the sauce use a pastry brush to apply it
• 1 tbsp vegetable oil regularly to the chicken as it
• ½ onion, chopped cooks. If your barbecue has a
• 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped lid, close it in between to help
• 3cm piece ginger, coarsely cook the chicken and to add a
grated smokier flavour.
• 1 tsp pimento (allspice) berries 5 Once cooked through, let the
• 1 scotch bonnet chilli, chopped chicken legs rest for 5 minutes
• ½ tsp ground cinnamon before serving them whole or
• ½ tsp thyme leaves carved, with lime wedges, the
• 1 tbsp tomato purée remaining jerk sauce and, if you
• 2 tbsp soft dark brown sugar like, plantain dauphinois (see
• 1 tbsp light soy sauce opposite page).
• 1 tbsp distilled malt vinegar Per serving 399kcals, 24g fat
or cider vinegar (5.1g saturated), 26g protein,
• 250ml chicken stock 19g carbs (18g sugars),
• 1 tsp celery salt 1.2g salt, 1.3g fibre
 the project.

“A great side for jerk chicken (and more),

this clever dauphinois variation is lighter
and more aromatic than the original, with
a wonderful texture from the plantains”

Green plantain • 20g parmesan or veggie

dauphinois alternative, finely grated
Serves 4 • Olive oil to drizzle
Prep time 20 min
Cook time 1 hour 10 min 1 Add the coconut oil to a
Specialist kit Mandoline (see medium saucepan over a
Know-how) medium heat. Once hot, add the
onion, garlic, thyme and bay,
You can assemble the then gently cook for 8 minutes
MAKE
AHEAD dauphinois up to 6 hours until the onions are softened.
ahead and keep it in the 2 Pour in the coconut milk, then
fridge; make sure there isn’t add the nutmeg and nutritional
any potato exposed on top as yeast. Season well with salt and
it could turn brown. pepper, then cover and leave to
You can buy green simmer for 15 minutes.
KNOW-
HOW plantains in Asda and 3 Meanwhile, heat the oven to
Tesco, from African and 190°C/170°C fan/gas 5. Peel
Asian grocers, and online at the plantains and potatoes.
evergreenfoods.co.uk. Use a mandoline (see Know-
You don’t need a mandoline how) to slice them as finely as
for this – a sharp knife will work possible into thin discs.
– but a mandoline makes it much 4 Begin layering the plantain
quicker and easier. If you’re and potato slices in a baking
using a knife, try to keep the dish, spooning over the coconut
slices as even as possible. milk mixture as you layer them
up (discard the bay leaf). Once
• 1 tbsp coconut oil everything is used up, wrap the
• 1 small onion, finely sliced dish very tightly with foil and
• 4 garlic cloves bake for 30 minutes.
• 1 tbsp thyme leaves 5 Remove the foil and bake,
• 1 bay leaf uncovered, for 10-15 minutes
• 400ml tin coconut milk until the golden on top.
• Pinch ground nutmeg 6 Meanwhile, if you’re making
• 2 tbsp nutritional yeast the topping, mix all the
• 3 green (unripe) plantains ingredients together, adding
• 2 medium floury potatoes, enough olive oil to coat each
such as king edward breadcrumb well. Bake, stirring
regularly, until golden and crisp
For the topping (optional and (about 8 minutes).
not vegan) 7 Serve the dauphinois with the
• Handful (20g) fresh breadcrumbs (if you’ve made
breadcrumbs them) sprinkled over the top.
• Finely grated zest 1 lemon Per serving 509kcals, 24g fat
• 1 tbsp thyme leaves (20g saturated), 10g protein,
• 1 tbsp finely chopped 60g carbs (11g sugars), Find more than 130 barbecue recipes at
rosemary leaves 0.2g salt, 8g fibre deliciousmagazine.co.uk/barbecue

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 63
MAKE YOUR
OWN

It’s the great British leveller: from the Houses of Parliament to your home, there’s
a bottle of brown sauce in every cupboard. And despite its dull name, says
senior food producer Pollyanna Coupland, it’s a condiment that bursts with
flavour. Fancy making your own more vibrantly flavoured version? Here’s how
FOOD STYLING POLLYANNA COUPLAND PHOTOGRAPHS INDIA WHILEY-MORTON
 condiment club.

POLLYANNA’S BEAUTIFUL BROWN SAUCE RECIPE

Homemade brown sauce
Makes 600ml
Prep time 25 min
Cook time 1 hour

Unopened, the sauce will

MAKE
AHEAD keep in a cool, dark place
for up to 3 months.
Once opened, keep in the fridge
and use within 3 weeks.
To peel tomatoes, use
BE A
BETTER a small sharp knife to
COOK
cut out the green stem
bit (calyx) and make a tiny
cross on the opposite end. Put
in boiling water for 30 seconds,
then plunge into iced water. The
skin should easily peel off.
To find out how to
KNOW-
HOW sterilise jars/bottles
search ‘sterilise’ at
deliciousmagazine.co.uk.
To make the sauce
EASY
SWAPS vegan you can use
he French may have five mother sauces, but at breakfast Henderson’s relish
two sauces rule. America’s tomato ketchup has a simple instead of Worcestershire
sweetness, but when it comes to complexity and depth of sauce; and to make it gluten
flavour, British brown sauce rules supreme. Best buddy of free, use tamari instead of soy
the bacon sandwich, friends with fried egg, it’s the perfect sauce (do note that tamari is
partner for the full English. This beguiling condiment slightly saltier than soy sauce).
originated in the 19th century and has a distinctive sweet, sour, savoury,
spicy and fruity flavour profile – but have you ever wondered what’s in it? • 1 tbsp olive oil
• 1 onion, finely chopped
FABULOUSLY FRUITY umami notes of dark soy and • 1 cinnamon stick
When I first made my version, Worcestershire sauce. Stewed • 8 whole cloves
I did wonder why it had been down with malt vinegar, the • 10 peppercorns
given the drab name ‘brown sauce is reminiscent of a chutney • 8 allspice berries
sauce’. ‘Fruit sauce’ is much more in smooth sauce form, making it • 1 star anise
appealing (and informative). It fantastic in a cheese sandwich. • 2½ tbsp ginger-garlic paste
contains apples, tomatoes and • Pinch ground mace
orange juice, as well as dried fruit MAKING IT YOUR OWN • 1 bay leaf
such as dates and apricots for After studying many recipes, I • 2 granny smith apples, peeled
rich sweetness, and tamarind for discovered the beauty of the sauce and coarsely grated
that signature sour tang. is in its variety of ingredients. • 6 vine tomatoes, peeled,
Sure, there are some constants, deseeded and chopped (see
SPICE AND OTHER THINGS NICE such as tamarind, malt vinegar, Be A Better Cook)
A medley of spices adds powerful tomatoes and apples, but the • 150g pitted dates, chopped
earthy, woody and floral notes. mixture of spices and fruit can • 80g dried apricots, chopped
Toasting the spices to boost their be adapted to your taste. Don’t • 2 tbsp dark brown sugar
aromas is what really elevates a like dates? Try figs instead. • 2 tbsp tamarind paste
homemade version of the sauce. Prefer more heat? Add some • 3 tbsp black treacle
For that deep brown colour, glossy chilli flakes. As the sauce cooks it • ½ tsp Worcestershire sauce
texture and bitter sweetness, develops layers of flavour, which • 1 tbsp dark soy sauce
dark treacle or molasses is added, makes it a forgiving playground • 125ml malt vinegar
balanced with the savoury for experimentation. • Juice ½ orange →

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 65
condiment club.

BROWN SAUCE CHEAT SHEET

BROWN SAUCE IS A GENERIC NAME FOR A CLASS
OF SAUCES, the most popular being HP Sauce.
Invented in 1890 by Mr Garton, a Nottingham
greengrocer, this was originally named The
Banquet Sauce. Supposedly, when he heard it
was being used in the Houses of Parliament he
renamed it HP Sauce. Mr Garton sold the recipe
for £150 to the Midlands Vinegar Factory in
1903. It was the new owners who put an image
of the Houses of Parliament on the label. The
sauce was made in a factory in Birmingham until
2005, when the company was bought by Heinz
and production moved to the Netherlands.

THE AMERICAN COUSIN TO BROWN SAUCE, A1 SAUCE

(later called A1 Steak Sauce) actually predates
our beloved HP as it was invented in the UK in
1824 and made its way to America in 1905. It
finally fell out of favour in the UK in the 1960s.
The flavour profiles are similar, but while we
1 Put a large, heavy-based pan the mixture has thickened but use brown sauce mainly at breakfast, A1 Steak
over a medium heat, add the oil, is still loose enough to blend Sauce is served with steaks and barbecues,
then add the onion with a good (add a splash of water if the as a glaze and as a burger topping. Go wild
pinch of salt and cook for mixture starts sticking). this summer and add your homemade brown
8 minutes, stirring regularly. 3 Leave to cool a little, then sauce to your barbecue repertoire.
Meanwhile, toast the cinnamon, blend for 5 minutes or until very
cloves, peppercorns, allspice smooth. Taste and check the IN 1940 JOHN BETJEMAN IMMORTALISED THE
and star anise in a hot dry pan seasoning – it shouldn’t need CONDIMENT in his poem Lake District:
for 30-40 seconds until fragrant, much more salt as the For me she breathes, for me each soft intake,/
then transfer to a pestle and Worcestershire sauce and soy For me the plunge, the lake and limbs
mortar or spice grinder and will have reduced down to give combine/I pledge her in non-alcoholic wine/
grind to a fine powder. a more concentrated salty And give the HP Sauce another shake.
2 Add the ginger-garlic paste flavour. Store in sterilised jars
and stir for a minute, then add or bottles (see Make Ahead). THE SAUCE WAS BRIEFLY DUBBED ‘WILSON’S GRAVY’
the spice powder along with the Per tbsp 13kcals, trace fat in the 1960s after Prime Minister Harold
ground mace and bay leaf. Stir (trace saturated), trace protein, Wilson, whose wife said: “If Harold has a fault,
for a further minute before 2.6g carbs (2.2g sugars), it is that he will drown everything in HP Sauce.”
adding the apples, tomatoes, 0.1g salt, trace fibre
dates and apricots. Cook for BROWN SAUCE IS TWICE AS POPULAR IN SCOTLAND
5 minutes, add the rest of the Fill your storecupboards with as in England. In Scotland it’s sometimes
ingredients and stir well, then more delectable DIY sauces at called ‘chippy sauce’, though purists will tell
turn the heat right down and deliciousmagazine.co.uk/ you the latter should really be a mixture of
simmer for 40-45 minutes until condiments brown sauce and malt vinegar.

66 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
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 Chingri
macher bora
(Bangladeshi
prawn fritters)

Welcome to
Bangladesh
WITH DINA BEGUM
 chef’s deep dive.

A BIT ABOUT DINA BEGUM

A British-Bangladeshi food
writer, Dina is a leading
champion of Bangladeshi
cooking, and published
the acclaimed Made In
Bangladesh in 2023.
She’s written for various
outlets including The
Telegraph, Food52
and, of course, delicious.
Find her on social media
@dinasfoodstory

If you’re not familiar with Bangladeshi food, prepare to be delighted by the boldness of its
spice blends and generosity of its flavours. Let food writer Dina Begum be your guide to these
three diverse dishes, which you could try on their own or combine into a magnificent menu
RECIPES AND FOOD STYLING DINA BEGUM PHOTOGRAPHS INDIA WHILEY-MORTON

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 71
chef’s deep dive.

“These classic Bangladeshi fritters are a delicious addition

to afternoon tea. My mum used to make them when I was
growing up and I’d wait in anticipation so I could devour a
plate as soon as they were out of the oil. Aromatic and slightly
spicy, they’re made extra crispy with the addition of rice flour.
They’re super moreish and pair perfectly with a cup of tea”
Chingri macher 1 Put the prawns in a food to a plate or tray as you work.
bora (Bangladeshi processor and pulse a few 4 Pour enough oil into a wide,
prawn fritters) times until finely chopped. You deep frying pan over a medium-
Makes about 20 (enough don’t want a smooth paste but high heat until it’s around 5cm
to serve 4) you don’t want any large pieces deep. Once it’s shimmering hot,
Prep time 15 min either. You can also do this add the fritters carefully to
Cook time 10 min with a sharp knife. the oil (you’ll need to work in
2 Combine the rest of the batches). Reduce the heat to
• 320g raw peeled prawns, ingredients (apart from the low-medium and leave them to
defrosted flours and oil) in a mixing bowl. fry, undisturbed, for 2 minutes
• 1 red onion, finely chopped Add the chopped prawns and before flipping and cooking for
• 1 tsp ground coriander both flours, then start stirring another 2 minutes.
• 1 tsp chilli powder while gradually adding 100ml 5 Remove the fritters from the
• 1 tsp fine salt cold water. Keep testing the oil using a slotted spoon and
• 1 tsp garlic paste consistency; you want it to drain on kitchen paper. Repeat
• 2 green finger chillies, be thick and falling slowly off until all the fritters are cooked.
finely chopped a spoon. You may not need Serve with hot sauce and lime
• 10g coriander, finely chopped all the water. wedges for squeezing.
Keep an eye out • 50g plain flour 3 Take a heaped tablespoon of Per serving 188kcals, 4.7g fat
on our Instagram • 50g rice flour the mixture and shape into a (0.4g saturated), 15g protein,
for recipe videos • Vegetable oil to shallow fry very rough, slightly flattened 21g carbs (2.4g sugars),
with Dina • Hot sauce and lime wedges round. Repeat until all the mix 2.8g salt, 1.2g fibre →
@deliciousmag to serve is used up, transferring them

72 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
Sheem murghi
(Bangladeshi
chicken and
mangetout
curry)

“This light curry comes together easily and is a wonderful dish for a
weeknight supper or weekend hosting. The heat of the spices balances
well with the chicken, mangetout and fragrant coriander”
 Sheem murghi
(Bangladeshi chicken
“Firni (or phirni) is a dessert served on
and mangetout curry) special occasions across South Asia, and
Serves 4 one that evokes memories of Eid and
Prep time 15 min
Cook time 50 min family get-togethers. In Bangladesh, this
creamy ground rice pudding is set in
“Sheem, or hyacinth beans,
are a staple in Bangladeshi individual earthenware dishes and enjoyed
cuisine and one of my after a feast. Here I’ve added mango to
favourite things to eat in
summer. I sometimes celebrate mango season and summer,
substitute them with smaller while ground cardamom adds a floral citrus
and thinner mangetout,
which are readily available in note, complementing the milk and mango”
supermarkets. The delicate
herbaceous aroma of these stir in the ground spices. Cook 1 Drain the soaked rice and rinse
beans pairs perfectly with for 1 minute, then add another it under running water until the
chicken in this light curry, 150ml water and simmer for water runs clear. Transfer to
which comes together easily 3-4 minutes. Add the chicken, a blender or spice grinder with
and makes for a wonderful stir to coat, then cover and 2-3 tbsp water and whizz the
addition to weeknight leave for 20 minutes, stirring rice into a coarse paste.
suppers or weekend hosting.” occasionally. 2 Transfer the rice paste to a
3 Add the mangetout and wide, heavy hob-safe casserole
• 5 tbsp vegetable oil 400ml water, turn the heat up or deep frying pan with 100ml
• 1 onion, finely chopped to a lively simmer, then cook water. Put over a medium heat
• 1 tbsp garlic paste uncovered for 6-7 minutes until and cook, whisking constantly
• 1 tbsp ginger paste the mangetout are tender. [A], until the rice paste has
• 1½ tsp fine salt Finish with the coriander, then absorbed the water and you
• 1 cinnamon stick serve with basmati rice. have a thick yet still loose
• 1 bay leaf Per serving 452kcals, 30g fat paste. Pour in the milk, whisk
• 4 green cardamom pods (3.9g saturated), 36g protein, well to remove any lumps, then
• 1 tsp ground turmeric 7.3g carbs (6.3g sugars), add the sugar and cardamom.
• 2½ tsp ground cumin 2.6g salt, 3.5g fibre 3 Bring to the boil, then turn to
• 2 tsp ground coriander a simmer and cook for 25-30
• 1½ tsp chilli powder Aam firni (Bangladeshi minutes, stirring regularly, until
• 1 tsp smoked paprika mango and ground the mix has the consistency of
• ½ tsp garam masala rice pudding) custard and it clings to (but
• 750g skinless chicken thighs Serves 4-6 falls easily off) a spoon.
and drumsticks, on the bone Prep time 5 min, plus 30 min 4 Stir in the mango pulp [B]
• 300g mangetout soaking and at least 6 hours and cook for 2 minutes, then
• 10g coriander, chopped chilling remove from the heat. Pour into
• Steamed basmati rice to serve Cook time 40 min a large heatproof serving dish
or 4-6 individual glasses. Leave
1 Add the oil to a large pan (one • 70g basmati rice, soaked to cool to room temperature,
with a lid) over a medium-high in cold water for 30 minutes then transfer to the fridge. Chill
heat. Stir in the onion, garlic, • 1 litre whole milk for at least 6 hours (but ideally
ginger and salt, then add the • 75g caster sugar overnight). Add pistachios and,
cinnamon, bay and cardamom. • ½ tsp ground cardamom if you like, rose petals before
Cook, stirring, for 3-4 minutes, • 300g sweetened mango pulp serving with flaked almonds.
then add 150ml water and turn • Crushed pistachios and Per serving (for 6) 248kcals,
down to low. Cover and leave for (optional) flaked almonds and 6.3g fat (3.9g saturated), 7g
7-8 minutes, stirring occasionally. dried rose petals/buds to protein, 41g carbs (30g sugars),
2 Turn the heat to medium and serve 0.2g salt, trace fibre

74 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
 chef’s deep dive.

Aam firni
(Bangladeshi mango
and ground rice
pudding)

B
MASTERING BRIOCHE TART

Your must-bake
SUMMER TREAT PHOTOGRAPHS INDIA WHILEY-MORTON

Expert baker Nicola Lamb’s prettily plaited brioche strawberry tart, with super-sweet
berries topping a rich vanilla custard, is a bake for the ages. Once you’ve got the
hang of its twists and turns you’ll be making it again and again, all summer long

76 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
 technical bake.

A BIT ABOUT NICOLA LAMB

Nicola trained as a pastry chef
at some of the best places in the
business, including Dominique
Ansel and Little Bread Pedlar.
She’s also worked with modern
legend Yotam Ottolenghi and her
2024 debut baking book, Sift,
was many people’s food book
of the year. Find Nicola’s
popular pastry newsletter at
kitchenprojects.substack.com
A B

Roasted strawberry it won’t stick to whatever’s

brioche tart covering it at that point and
Serves 8-10 it doesn’t have to be airtight,
Prep time 1 hour, plus at least but neither do you want lots of
2 hours 30 min proving exposed dough or it could dry
Cook time 1 hour, plus cooling out in the fridge.

You can roast the For the brioche dough

MAKE
AHEAD strawberries up to • 50g whole milk, warm
3 days in advance • 100g (about 2 medium) eggs,
and keep them in the fridge. plus 1 extra, beaten, for an
Putting the tart on the egg wash
BE A
BETTER oven shelf, then pouring • 1 tbsp vanilla paste or 1 vanilla
COOK
the custard directly into pod, split and seeds scraped
it means you can fill it to the • 200g strong white bread flour
brim without spilling any. • 4g instant dry yeast
It’s worth weighing the • 4g fine salt
(cracked) eggs to ensure your • 75g unsalted butter, softened,
ratios are bang on. plus extra to grease
No stand mixer? You • Pearl sugar to sprinkle (optional)
KNOW-
HOW can knead the brioche
by hand – just be For the strawberries
aware it will be quite sticky • 400g strawberries
at first and will take longer • 40g caster sugar
to turn smooth and elastic.
You separate the yeast and For the custard
salt in step 1 so there’s no risk • 250g double cream
of the salt killing the yeast. • 50g (about 1) egg
When you’re covering the • 50g caster sugar
flattened dough in step 5, • 1 tbsp vanilla bean paste
 technical bake.

C D

E
1 To make the brioche dough, until it’s fully developed.
add the milk, eggs and vanilla 4 Remove the dough from the
paste or scraped vanilla seeds bowl and shape it into a smooth
to the bowl of a stand mixer. ball using your hands or a bench
Add the dry ingredients, putting scraper. Use the work surface
the yeast on one side of the to create surface tension and
bowl and the salt on the other. form a tight ball.
2 Using the dough hook, mix on 5 Put the dough in a lightly
medium speed for 6-8 minutes greased bowl, cover (with a
or until you reach medium gluten clean tea towel or plastic bag)
development (this means the and let it rise for about 1 hour.
dough holds together when It should noticeably puff and
stretched but still feels slightly almost double in size. Press
fragile). You can mix further, but onto a tray lined with greased
this is the minimum needed baking paper to deflate, then
before adding the butter. cover (with tightly wrapped
3 With the mixer running, add baking paper, another tray or a
the butter a teaspoon at a time, clean tea towel) and chill until
waiting for it to be incorporated firm – overnight is best but you
before adding the next. Continue can do this in the freezer in
mixing at medium-high speed 30 minutes if you’re in a rush.
for another 10-12 minutes until 6 For the roasted strawberries,
the dough is very smooth and heat the oven to 170°C/150°C
fully developed. You should fan/gas 3½. Wash, hull and halve
be able to stretch a piece of it the strawberries, then toss with
into a thin, almost translucent the sugar on a tray. Roast for
sheet. If it hasn’t reached this 30-40 minutes until soft, syrupy
stage yet, let the dough rest and shrunken. Leave to cool,
for 5 minutes, then continue then set aside in the fridge.
mixing in 5-minute intervals 7 To prepare the tart, put the →

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 79
technical bake.

“This is a
showstopping
centrepiece
for summer and
such a beautiful
way to enjoy dough on a sheet of baking
paper and roll into a circle
egg wash. Pour the custard into
the middle [C] and use a spoon
seasonal roughly 30cm wide. Using to even it out, making sure it
strawberries. a bench scraper or knife, cut
5cm long slits around the
goes to the edge (see Be A
Better Cook). Sprinkle the border
Roasting the edge of the dough at 1-2cm with pearl sugar, if using [D].
berries intensifies intervals [A]. 11 Bake for 18-20 minutes or
8 To braid the border, pull until golden at the edges and
their flavour each ‘arm’ of dough horizontally the custard barely wobbles
and creates across the next and tuck under when shaken [E]. Leave to cool.
the arm that’s two spaces 12 Drain the strawberries from
a wonderful along to create a rope-like braid. their syrup [F]. Heat the syrup
glossy syrup. The Slide the tart, still on its paper, in a pan until slightly thickened
onto a baking tray, loosely cover (coating the back of the spoon),
plaiting looks and leave to prove until puffy then leave to cool. Arrange the
fancy but (about 45 minutes to 1 hour). berries in the middle of the tart,
9 For the custard, mix all the then spoon over the syrup.
it’s not so hard, ingredients together in a bowl Per serving (for 10) 318kcals, NEXT MONTH
and the custard until smooth, then set aside. 21g fat (12g saturated), 5.1g
Nicola’s
summery
10 Heat the oven to 190°C/ protein, 26g carbs (12g sugars),
is as easy as it 170°C fan/gas 5. Press down 0.5g salt, 2.2g fibre
pavlova is a
work of art
gets – just stir the centre of the puffy tart,
moving any dough to the edges
the ingredients to help maintain the crater shape Find more ways to use summer’s favourite fruit at
together” [B], then brush the border with deliciousmagazine.co.uk/best-strawberry-recipes

80 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
 Elevated
PHOTOGRAPH: INDIA WHILEY-MORTON

Refresh your salad repertoire with our new top 10, make Kathy
Slack’s kitchen-garden delights and get courgette-inspired.
Plus: seafood pasta ragù, air fryer kofte and a beany BBQ side

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 81
Be good
to yourself

HIGH
PROTEIN
 midweek magic.

Bestselling author and nutritionist Emily English is back with a new book and
some reassuring news: enjoying the food you love doesn’t have to mean
sacrificing healthiness. These weeknight meals are bursting with the good stuff
PHOTOGRAPHS CLARE WINFIELD STYLING LIBBY SILBERMANN

“THESE SEARED CHIPOTLE STEAK

BOWLS are full of punchy spice, with
a smoky, creamy corn salad and lots
of fresh, zippy lime. One of my favourite
ways to enjoy a good steak, this is
a satisfying yet healthy recipe”

Seared chipotle • 1 heaped tsp honey

steak bowls with • A few dashes Tabasco
charred corn salad
Serves 2 1 Mix the chipotle paste, olive
Prep time 20 min, plus at least oil, garlic and lime juice with
30 min marinating some salt and pepper in a small
Cook time 15 min, plus bowl. Rub the mixture all over
5 min resting the steak and let it marinate for
at least 30 minutes, preferably
• 1 tbsp chipotle paste longer (you could marinate it in
1 tbsp olive oil the fridge overnight).
• 1 garlic clove, finely chopped 2 Meanwhile, for the charred
• Juice 1 lime corn salad, heat a griddle pan A BIT ABOUT EMILY ENGLISH
• 350-400g sirloin steak (or over a medium-high heat. Born in Bedford, Emily is a nutritionist known for her
use any steak you like) Griddle the corn for 8-10 sensible approach to eating well. When she started
• 20g baby leaf spinach minutes until charred on all posting recipe videos on social media during the
• 250g cooked quinoa or brown sides. Remove from the heat pandemic, she became a hit, and began combining
rice to serve (optional) and leave to cool slightly. Cut her healthy-eating nous with her enjoyably simple
• ½ medium avocado, sliced the kernels off the cob and put cooking. She’s just published her second book
• 100g cherry tomatoes, halved them in a large bowl. Add the (see p86). Find her on social media @emthenutritionist
• Lime wedges to serve spring onions, green pepper, and look out for our videos together this month
coriander and feta. Mix in the
For the charred corn salad yogurt, lime juice, smoked
• 2 corn-on-the-cobs paprika, jalapeños and their
• 3 spring onions, finely chopped brine, along with the honey and 4 Divide the spinach between
• 1 green pepper, chopped Tabasco. Add salt and pepper 2 bowls. Add the cooked quinoa
• 15g coriander leaves, chopped, to taste, then toss to combine. or rice, if using. Top with the
plus extra (optional) to serve 3 Heat a large frying pan over sliced avocado, halved tomatoes
• 80g feta, crumbled a medium-high heat. Sear the and charred corn salad. Add the
• 1 heaped tbsp greek yogurt steak for 3 minutes on each sliced steak on top and serve
(0% or full fat) side for medium-rare or until with lime wedges for squeezing,
• Juice 1 lime cooked to your liking. Remove plus extra coriander, if you like.
• 1 tsp smoked paprika from the frying pan and let it Per serving 617kcals, 34g fat
• 1 tbsp pickled jalapeños from rest on a board for 5 minutes (13g saturated), 54g protein,
a jar, chopped, plus 1 tbsp before slicing against the grain 19g carbs (12g sugars),
brine (across the lines in the meat). 1.6g salt, 5.3g fibre →

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 83
 • 2 garlic cloves, bashed but
left in their skins
• Olive oil for drizzling
• 1 tbsp tomato purée
• 10g basil leaves
• 250g fresh gnocchi

For the whipped ricotta

• 2 heaped tbsp ricotta
• Finely grated zest ½ lemon
• 20g parmesan or vegetarian
equivalent, finely grated, plus
extra to serve

1 Heat the oven to 210°C/

190°C fan/gas 6½. In an
ovenproof dish or pan, combine
the tomatoes, aubergine, olives,
capers, chilli flakes, oregano and
balsamic vinegar, then season
with salt and pepper. Add the
garlic cloves, drizzle over some
olive oil, then gently toss to
evenly coat the vegetables.
2 Cover the dish with foil, then
bake in the oven for 25 minutes.
Remove the foil and add the
tomato purée and 2 tbsp water,
then mix and bake for another
VEGGIE
HERO 10 minutes until the tomatoes
are collapsing and everything is
soft. Remove the garlic, squeeze
the flesh into the sauce (discard
the skin), then add most of the
basil and another 2 tbsp water.
“SLOW-ROASTING THE TOMATOES, GARLIC AND 3 For the whipped ricotta, use
a fork to beat the ricotta, lemon
AUBERGINE creates an intensely flavoured sauce that zest and cheese together. Add
pairs so well with the lemon and parmesan ricotta. It’s salt and pepper to taste.
4 Cook the gnocchi in a pan of
also great served with any cooked protein you like. Any salted boiling water according
leftovers will make an easy lunch for the next day” to the packet instructions. Drain,
saving a cup of the cooking
water. Add the warm gnocchi
Whipped ricotta and • 250g cherry tomatoes to the sauce and mix. Add some
slow-roasted tomato • 1 small aubergine, cut into of the gnocchi water, if needed,
gnocchi small cubes to loosen the sauce.
Serves 2 • 12 pitted kalamata olives, 5 Serve topped with the
Prep time 10 min quartered whipped ricotta, the remaining
Cook time 35 min • 1 tbsp capers, drained and basil and more grated cheese.
rinsed Per serving 517kcals, 24g fat
This recipe will easily • Pinch chilli flakes (9g saturated), 23g protein,
SCALE
IT UP double up to serve • 1 tsp dried oregano 47g carbs (11g sugars),
4 people. • 1 tbsp balsamic vinegar 4.2g salt, 7.7g fibre
 midweek magic.

Simple super greens pasta

Serves 2
Prep time 10 min
Cook time 10 min

Use a veggie stock cube

EASY
SWAPS and veggie hard cheese
to make this vegetarian. SUPER
SPEEDY
• 150g dried pasta (any shape)
• Olive oil for frying
• 1 shallot, finely chopped
• 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
• 1 leek, finely sliced
• ½ tsp chopped rosemary
leaves
• 75g kale, roughly chopped
• 120g frozen peas
• 1 chicken stock cube,
crumbled (see Easy Swaps)
• 40g parmesan (see Easy
Swaps), finely grated, plus
extra to serve
• 75-100ml semi-skimmed milk
• 20g basil leaves, plus extra

1 Cook the pasta in a pan of

salted boiling water until al dente
(still with bite), then drain,
keeping some of the pasta water.
2 Meanwhile, add a little oil to a
frying pan (one with a lid) over
a low-medium heat and gently
fry the shallot, garlic, leek and
rosemary with a pinch of salt
until translucent. Add the kale
and peas, mix, then cover with
the lid to cook for 5 minutes or
until the kale has softened.
3 Tip it all into a blender and add
the stock cube, parmesan, 75ml
milk, basil and a pinch of pepper.
Whizz until smooth, adding more
milk if it needs loosening.
4 Mix the sauce into the pasta. “THIS IS ONE OF THOSE RECIPES
adding a little of the reserved
pasta water if it’s still too thick. THAT PACKS in all the goodness in
5 Serve, topped (if you like) with my favourite form – a big bowl of pasta.
your protein of choice, with
extra parmesan and basil. It has the silkiest vibrant green sauce with
Per serving 505kcals, 15g fat plenty of fresh basil, parmesan, kale, protein-
(5.5g saturated), 24g protein,
64g carbs (9.9g sugars), packed peas – and, of course, lots of garlic”
2.5g salt, 9.3g fibre →

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 85
 “A FAVOURITE
RECIPE OF MINE,
this matches the
rich, spiced
flavours of tikka-
marinated cod with
the sweetness of
mango chutney and
caramelised onions.
Served with a
MEAL
FOR 1
refreshing mint
raita, it’s a dish I eat
all year round”
“THIS QUICK, AROMATIC LUNCH is filling Tikka cod with
caramelised onion
yet light, will help you avoid the afternoon Serves 2
slump and it’s ready in under 20 minutes. Prep time 10 min
Cook time 35 min
You can use whatever veg you have handy”
The recipe easily
SCALE
Thai red coconut • ½ red pepper, sliced IT UP doubles to serve
gyoza soup • 1 large spring onion, sliced 4 people.
Serves 1 • 1 tsp crispy chilli oil to serve
Prep time 5 min (optional) For the marinated cod
Cook time 12 min • 2 tbsp greek yogurt (ideally
Useful to have Julienne peeler 1 In a deep pan, combine the full fat)
curry paste, soy, ginger, coconut • Juice 1 lemon
You can easily double or milk and 150ml water. Bring to a • 1 tsp ginger paste
SCALE
IT UP quadruple the amounts. gentle simmer, add the fish • 1 tsp garlic paste
Use your largest pan. sauce and simmer for 5 minutes. • 1 tsp garam masala
2 Add the gyoza, carrot, • 1 tsp mango chutney, plus
• 1 tbsp thai red curry paste broccoli, edamame (if using), extra to serve
• 1 tbsp light soy sauce, plus red pepper and spring onion • 1 tsp tomato purée
extra if needed (reserving some to garnish). • 2 skinless cod fillets
• 1 tsp ginger paste Simmer for 5-7 minutes until • Lime wedges to serve
• 150ml coconut milk (light or the gyoza are cooked and
full fat) the veg are tender but still For the caramelised
• 1 tbsp fish sauce vibrant and crisp. Season to onion rice
• 6 ready-made gyoza (choose taste with soy sauce if needed. • 2 tsp olive oil
your favourite flavour/filling) 3 Pour into a serving bowl, • 2 red onions, finely sliced
• 1 small carrot, cut into drizzle with crispy chilli oil, if Recipes taken • 1 tbsp mango chutney
matchsticks using a julienne you like, and garnish with the from Live To Eat • 1 tbsp garam masala
peeler or a sharp knife reserved spring onion. by Emily English • 1 tbsp tomato purée
• A few spears long-stem Per serving 593kcals, 33g fat (Seven Dials • 80g frozen peas
broccoli, halved (25g saturated), 20g protein, £25) and • ½ x 400g tin chickpeas,
• Handful frozen edamame/soya 50g carbs (19g sugars), tested by drained and rinsed
beans (optional) 8.1g salt, 9.4g fibre delicious. • 250g cooked rice

86 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
 midweek magic.

• Handful (20g) baby leaf

spinach

For the raita

HIGH
FIBRE • 150g greek yogurt (ideally
full fat)
• 2 tbsp chopped coriander
leaves
• 1 tbsp chopped mint leaves
• Juice ½ lemon

1 In a small bowl, mix all the cod

ingredients (except the fish and
lime) with salt and pepper to
make a marinade. Coat the
fillets in the marinade and leave
for at least 30 minutes. Heat
the oven to 220°C/200°C fan/
gas 7 or the air fryer to 200°C.
2 Meanwhile, in a large pan,
make the rice. Heat the oil over
a medium heat. Add the red
onions and mango chutney,
then cook for 10-15 minutes
until caramelised, adding a
splash of water if they start to
catch. Stir in the garam masala
and tomato purée, then cook for
2 minutes more until aromatic.
3 Add the peas and chickpeas,
then fry for about 3 minutes
until heated through. Add the
cooked rice and spinach, mix
to coat, then cook for a few
minutes more until the rice is
hot and the spinach has wilted.
4 Put the marinated cod on
a baking sheet and bake in the
oven for 10-15 minutes (or in
the air fryer for 12-15 minutes)
until cooked through and the
cod flakes easily with a fork.
5 Meanwhile, mix the raita
ingredients in a small bowl with
salt and pepper to taste.
6 Put a generous portion of
the rice on each plate. Top with
a cod fillet and a dollop of raita,
then serve with lime wedges
Don’t settle for boring and mango chutney.
midweek meals! Per serving 700kcals, 20g fat
Search ‘midweek’ at (9.3g saturated), 43g protein,
deliciousmagazine.co.uk 78g carbs (23g sugars),
1.4g salt, 13g fibre
YOUR SUMMER
SALAD HOTLIST
Drumroll please… Here are our top 10 fresh new salads for summer, all full of varied
textures and bright flavours. Whatever you’re craving, we have the answer

Smoked mackerel
soba noodle salad
with carrot, ginger
and miso dressing
 everyday hero.

This crowd-pleasing
pasta salad is inspired
by the Mexican street
food elotes: charred
corn slathered with a
creamy, tangy dressing
of mayonnaise,
lime, coriander and
crumbled cheese

Elotes pasta salad

RECIPES AND FOOD STYLING POLLYANNA COUPLAND AND EMILY GUSSIN PHOTOGRAPHS INDIA WHILEY-MORTON

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 89
everyday hero.

Burrata and mortadella

salad with charred
nectarines and long-
stem broccoli

90 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
THE TOMATO SALAD
‘Tarka’ tomato salad
Serves 4 as a side
Prep time 10 min
Cook time 5 min

BE A Keep your tomatoes at

BETTER
COOK a cool room temperature
rather than in the fridge,
to preserve their flavour. They
last longer upside down, as the
green calyx is where moisture
enters and spoils the fruit.

• 1kg mixed tomatoes (a variety

of colours, shapes and sizes)
• 2 tbsp cold-pressed
rapeseed oil
• 20 curry leaves (ideally fresh)
• ½ tsp black mustard seeds
• ½ tsp cumin seeds
• ½ tsp coriander seeds, lightly
crushed
• 3 garlic cloves, sliced
• Juice 1 lime

1 Cut the tomatoes into various

shapes and sizes, then arrange
on a serving platter and season
all over with sea salt flakes and
freshly ground black pepper.
2 Heat the oil in a small pan
over a medium heat. Add the
curry leaves and whole spices,
then sizzle for 2-3 minutes. Add
the garlic and cook for another
2-3 minutes until the garlic
has softened. Remove from the
heat and squeeze in the lime
juice. Pour the hot spiced
dressing all over the tomatoes
and serve immediately.
Per serving 114kcals, 6.6g fat
(0.5g saturated), 1.5g protein,
The hot dressing of toasted
8g carbs (7.7g sugars), 0.2g salt, seeds, curry leaves and lime
2.6g fibre →
juice works a bit like an Indian
tarka (where spices infuse
hot oil), instantly elevating
this single-ingredient salad
with bright, fragrant flavours
 Chicken and grape
salad with
chicken-fat croutons

This is a celebration of everything we love about roast

chicken. It’s peppered with crisp shards of chicken
skin and croutons fried in chicken fat, while the
grapes add pops of sweetness alongside the fresh
crunch of shallot and romaine. It’s an absolute beauty
 everyday hero.

THE CHOPPED SALAD • 1 shallot, finely chopped • 100g sun-dried tomatoes,

Crunchy broccoli and • 1 tbsp capers, drained, chopped
five-herb salad rinsed and chopped • 8 anchovy fillets in oil
Serves 4-6 as a side • 1 tbsp red wine vinegar
Prep time 10 min • 3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, 1 Put all the ingredients apart
(or oil from the anchovies) from the anchovies in a large
This raw salad packs so much • 10g tarragon leaves, bowl, season with salt and
flavour for just 10 minutes of chopped pepper, then toss to combine.
work. Mix and match the herbs • 10g flatleaf parsley, Roll up the anchovies into curls
and, to make it plant-based, chopped and use to garnish the salad.
omit the anchovies. • 10g chives, chopped Per serving (for 6) 93kcals,
• 10g mint, chopped 16g fat (2.2g saturated), 5.3g
The salad can be made • 10g dill, chopped protein, 4g carbs (2.4g sugars),
MAKE
AHEAD fresh but tastes sublime • 1 large broccoli head, 1.3g salt, 5.8g fibre →
after a day of marinating chopped into 1cm pieces
in the dressing. Just be sure to (including the stalk)
add the herbs fresh on the day. • Lemon juice to taste

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 93
everyday hero.

Mojo steak and

black bean salad

94 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
THE FRUITY SALAD
Cantaloupe melon
salad with feta and
crispy chickpeas
Serves 4 as a side
Prep time 20 min
Cook time 25 min

Skip the feta to make

EASY
SWAPS this salad vegan – it
will still be delicious.
You can use an air fryer
AIR
FRYER to bake the chickpeas
and seeds. Cook the
chickpeas at 180°C for 12
minutes, then add the seeds
and cook for 3-5 minutes more.

• ½ x 400g tin chickpeas,

drained
• 1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil,
plus extra to drizzle
• 2 tbsp mixed seeds (pumpkin,
sunflower, sesame, linseeds)
• ½ tsp nigella seeds
• ½ tsp sumac, plus extra
to sprinkle
• 1.2kg cantaloupe melon,
peeled and cut into thin
wedges
• 1 baby cucumber, thinly
sliced
• 4 mint sprigs, leaves picked
• 75g feta, crumbled

1 Heat the oven to 200°C/

180°C fan/gas 6. Tip the
chickpeas onto a large baking
tray where they’re not crammed
together. Season with salt and
pepper, then drizzle with the
1 tbsp olive oil. Bake for 15
minutes, stir through all the
seeds, then return to the oven
for 8-10 minutes more until the
chickpeas are crisp. As soon as seed mixture, then scatter
they come out of the oven, over the mint leaves and feta.
Step aside, ham-wrapped melon
sprinkle over the ½ tsp sumac, Drizzle with a little oil, then – crispy roasted chickpeas and
then set aside to cool. sprinkle over some more sumac.
2 Arrange the melon on serving Serve straightaway.
seeds with crumbled feta are
plates, tucking in slices of the Per serving 238kcals, 12g fat the ideal accompaniments for
cucumber as you go. Season (3.7g saturated), 10g protein,
all over with a little salt. Spoon 18g carbs (9.3g sugars),
juicy cantaloupe, while mint
over the crispy chickpea and 0.5g salt, 7.3g fibre → and cucumber bring freshness
 These marinated aubergines are an excellent dish
to have in the fridge and use for lunch all week –
they just carry on soaking up all that flavour

Sweet-and-sour
marinated
aubergines

96 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
 everyday hero.

THE POTATO SALAD • 1kg new potatoes, quartered 1 Cook the new potatoes in
Prawn cocktail • 250g cooked and peeled cold a pan of salted boiling water
potato salad water prawns, defrosted if for 12 minutes or until tender,
Serves 4-6 frozen (see Know-how) then drain and leave to cool
Prep time 5 min • 1 little gem lettuce, finely (see Make Ahead).
Cook time 12 min, plus cooling sliced 2 Mix the ingredients for the
• 2 avocados, chopped dressing in a large bowl, then
The potatoes are best • 20g dill, chopped, plus fronds gently stir in the cooled
MAKE
AHEAD cooked in advance to garnish potatoes, prawns, shredded
so they have time to • 28g pack prawn cocktail lettuce, chopped avocados
cool to room temperature. crisps, roughly crushed and dill. Garnish with a pinch
BE A
Keep the sliced lettuce of smoked paprika, the crushed
BETTER crisp by storing in a bowl For the dressing crisps and dill fronds.
COOK
of cold water in the • 4 tbsp mayonnaise Per serving (for 6) 379kcals,
fridge while the potatoes cool. • 4 tbsp ketchup 21g fat (3g saturated), 11g
We love cold water • ½ tsp Worcestershire sauce protein, 33g carbs (7.2g sugars),
KNOW-
HOW prawns in this dish – • ¼ tsp Tabasco 1g salt, 5.3g fibre →
but if you want to take • ¼ tsp smoked paprika, plus
it to another level, add some a pinch to garnish
big barbecued king prawns. • Lemon juice to taste

Combining two salad favourites,

this 20-minute dish is filling,
crowd-pleasing and absolutely
delicious. Crumbling prawn
cocktail crisps over the top for
crunch makes it double potato
AND double prawn cocktail
Carrot gives this creamy miso, ginger
and sesame dressing plenty of body and
an appealing orange hue. It’s fantastic
with the earthy buckwheat noodles
and plenty of crisp fresh vegetables
• 1 tsp sesame seeds, toasted
in a dry pan until fragrant
THE BBQ PASTA SALAD
For the dressing Elotes pasta salad
• 1 medium carrot, coarsely Serves 6-8
grated Prep time 25 min
• 30g ginger, thinly sliced
• 1 garlic clove, roughly chopped Traditional elotes are
KNOW-
• 1 tbsp white miso paste HOW sprinkled with a Mexican
• 2 tsp sesame oil cheese called cotija, a
• 1 tbsp cold-pressed tangy, crumbly cheese similar
THE NOODLE SALAD rapeseed oil to feta but with a more aged
Smoked mackerel soba • 1½ tbsp rice vinegar flavour like parmesan. As it’s
noodle salad with carrot, • 2 tsp light soy sauce hard to come by in the UK,
ginger and miso dressing • 2 tbsp mayonnaise a mixture of feta and parmesan
Serves 4 (we like Kewpie) makes a good substitute.
Prep time 25 min Tajín is a Mexican spice mix
Cook time 5 min 1 Cook the soba noodles in a of lime, ground chillies and salt
pan of salted water according – it’s used for everything from
This recipe is great as to the pack instructions, then coating the rims of margarita
MAKE
AHEAD a lunchbox salad. Toss drain and rinse under cold water. glasses to sprinkling over fruit
the noodles with half Once cool and fully drained, tip salads, flavouring popcorn and
the dressing, then pack in a into a bowl and season with the rubbing on meat.
container and spoon the rest of sesame oil and rice vinegar. For an air fryer: rub the
NO BBQ?
the dressing on top. It will keep 2 For the dressing, put all corn cobs with 1 tbsp
in the fridge for 3 days. So they the ingredients except the butter and cook in the
stay crisp, keep the seaweed mayo in a blender with 2 tbsp air fryer at 200ºC for 15
thins to add when you eat it. water and whizz at a low- minutes, turning halfway.
BE A For super-crisp medium speed until as smooth For a griddle pan or frying pan:
BETTER and fresh-tasting as possible. Add the mayo and remove the husks if they have
COOK
lettuce, radishes and whizz again until creamy and them and rub the corn with the
mangetout, drop them into a everything is combined. butter. Cook in a hot pan until
bowl of iced water 10 minutes 3 Arrange the noodles, mackerel, there are even scorch or char
before assembling the salad. lettuce and veg on a serving marks all over the cobs.
platter or plates, layering each When fresh corn isn’t in
YEAR
• 200g buckwheat soba noodles element separately to be mixed ROUND season use a 340g tin
(please note, some soba as you eat and seasoning the drained corn or 300g
noodles are not gluten free) veg with a little salt. Add the defrosted frozen corn. Warm
• 1 tsp sesame oil seaweed thins, spoon over the the corn in butter in a pan – it
• 1 tsp rice vinegar dressing and scatter over the wont have the smokiness but
• 4 smoked mackerel fillets sesame seeds to finish. will still taste great.
• 2 little gem lettuces Per serving 819kcals, 51g fat
• 80g radishes, sliced (9.1g saturated), 43g protein, • 3 corn cobs, preferably
• 100g mangetout 44g carbs (5.6g sugars), 5.4g still in their husks
• 10g crispy seaweed thins salt, 8.2g fibre • 1½ tbsp butter
 everyday hero.

• 350g farfalle pasta This is a treat all right – it requires a mere

• Bunch spring onions,
finely sliced 15 minutes to make and relies heavily on
• 25g coriander, chopped a delightful assortment of high-quality
• 100g feta, finely crumbled
• Tajín seasoning to serve ingredients to do the heavy lifting
(optional; see Know-how)

For the dressing • 1 tsp sherry vinegar

• 150g mayonnaise • ½ tbsp extra-virgin olive oil,
• Finely grated zest 2 limes, plus extra to drizzle
juice from 1 • 1 burrata
• 1 large garlic clove (or two • 1 tbsp pine nuts, toasted in
small), finely grated a hot dry pan until golden
• 25g parmesan (or vegetarian
alternative), finely grated 1 Put a large frying pan or
griddle pan over a high heat
1 Make sure the barbecue is lit to get smoking hot. Toss the
and ready to cook on (see No broccoli, sugar snaps and
BBQ?). Peel back the husks if THE TREAT SALAD nectarine in the olive oil,
they have them, then rub the Burrata and mortadella then add to the pan to char.
corn with the butter, season salad with charred They should be in a single
with salt and wrap in their nectarines and layer, so you might need to
husks again (or in foil if they long-stem broccoli work in batches. Sprinkle with
don’t have husks). Cook on the Serves 2 salt, then leave to cool to
hot barbecue for around 20 Prep time 5 min, plus cooling room temperature.
minutes, turning occasionally. Cook time 10 min 2 Toss the vegetables with the
2 Cook the pasta in salted boiling herbs, torn mortadella, sherry
water for 10-12 minutes BE A
This is a prime salad vinegar and extra-virgin olive
or according to the pack BETTER for when you have the oil, then arrange on a platter.
COOK
instructions. Drain and run barbecue going; toss Open out the burrata and lay
under cold water until cold. the nectarine, broccoli and sugar on top, drizzle with more oil,
This step is important to stop snaps in a dash of oil and griddle then sprinkle with the toasted
it sticking together. until charred on each side. Not pine nuts and some salt and
3 Meanwhile, mix the dressing only do you get lovely charring pepper to serve.
ingredients together. When the but you also enjoy a wonderful Per serving 595kcals, 46g fat
corn is cooked, unwrap the cobs smokiness, which pairs so well (23g saturated), 31g protein,
and slice off the kernels. In a with the creamy burrata. 11g carbs (9.5g sugars),
serving bowl mix the corn with We’ve made many 1.4g salt, 5.5g fibre →
EASY
the pasta, dressing, half the SWAPS versions of this tasty
spring onions, half the coriander salad using parma ham,
and half the feta. Sprinkle over mozzarella, peaches, apricots,
the remaining ingredients asparagus and green beans.
(including the Tajín, if using), They’re all just as wonderful.
then serve.
Per serving (for 8) 371kcals, • 200g long-stem broccoli
21g fat (5g saturated), 9.6g • 100g sugar snap peas
protein, 34g carbs (2.5g sugars), • 1 nectarine, cut into
0.4g salt, 2.7g fibre 8 wedges
• 1 tbsp olive oil
• 10g flatleaf parsley leaves
• 10g basil leaves
• 4 slices mortadella, torn
in half

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 99
 Bringing retro bean salads firmly into the
modern age, this high-protein bowl tops
beans with pan-fried steak and toasted
seeds, all dressed with a zesty, fiery and
fragrant Cuban mojo-inspired dressing

• 30g coriander, roughly

chopped
• 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil THE CHICKEN SALAD
• ½ tsp fine salt Chicken and grape salad
• 1 tsp caster sugar with chicken fat croutons
Serves 4-6
1 Remove the steaks from the Prep time 25 min
fridge and pat dry 15 minutes Cook time 43 min
before cooking to take off the
chill. Meanwhile, make the mojo BE A
Baking the chicken on
dressing by whizzing all the BETTER top of the bread means
COOK
THE HIGH-PROTEIN SALAD ingredients in a blender until you make the most of
Mojo steak and black smooth with flecks of coriander. every ounce of flavour from
bean salad 2 Heat a large heavy-based the meat. The fat slowly drips
Serves 4 frying pan over a high heat. into the croutons as they
Prep time 35 min Season the steaks with salt and cook, leaving some delightfully
Cook time 6 min pepper. Add the oil to the pan, squidgy and others crunchy.
then the steaks. For medium- The chicken skin is crisped up
Make the bean salad rare, cook for 2-3 minutes each too, to scatter over the salad.
MAKE
AHEAD and mojo dressing in side depending on thickness (or
advance and keep in until done to your liking). • 300g day-old bread (a classic
the fridge for up to 3 days, then Remove and set aside to rest. loaf, focaccia or ciabatta works
serve at room temperature. 3 In a large bowl, toss the beans well), cut into 2cm chunks
Griddled chicken or with the tomatoes, spring onions • 2 rosemary sprigs, leaves
EASY
SWAPS halloumi would be a and half the mojo dressing. Slice picked
great swap for steak. the rested steaks against the • About 700g chicken thighs and
grain (at an angle to the lines in drumsticks (skin-on, bone in)
• 2 x 200g bavette steaks the meat). Arrange the bean • 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
(sometimes sold as flank mixture on plates or a serving • 2 round shallots, thinly sliced
steaks) platter, then top with the • 1 tbsp balsamic vinegar
• 1 tbsp olive oil avocados, a pinch of salt and • 1 tsp dijon mustard
• 570g jar black beans, drained pepper and steak slices. Scatter • 1 romaine lettuce, leaves
• 400g cherry tomatoes, halved over the pumpkin seeds, then separated
• 4 spring onions, sliced drizzle with the remaining mojo. • 200g red grapes
• 2 avocados, mashed Per serving 605kcals, 37g fat • 1 tsp capers, drained and
• 2 tbsp pumpkin seeds, (9.7g saturated), 34g protein, rinsed
toasted in a dry pan until 25g carbs (13g sugars),
fragrant 1.6g salt, 16g fibre 1 Heat the oven to 200°C/
180°C fan/gas 6. Spread out
For the mojo dressing the bread on a baking tray so
• Juice 1 orange it’s all in one layer with just
• Juice 1 lime a little space between each
• 1 green chilli (deseeded piece. Season with salt and
if you prefer less heat) pepper, then scatter over the
• 1 garlic clove rosemary. Season the chicken

100 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
 everyday hero.

all over with salt and pepper, • 2 bird’s eye chillies

then arrange on top of the • 1 round shallot, sliced
bread. Drizzle with 1 tbsp of the into rings
oil. Bake for 30-35 minutes until • ½ lime, juiced
the chicken is cooked through
and the bread is crisp. 1 Put a large frying pan over a
2 Meanwhile, put the shallot high heat with 1 tbsp of the oil.
slices in a bowl of cold water for Once hot, add the aubergines
15 minutes to soften slightly. (work in batches so you don’t
3 Remove the skin from the overcrowd the pan) and fry until
thighs and transfer it to another golden, adding a little more oil
baking tray. Return the skin to THE OVERNIGHT SALAD with each batch if needed.
the oven for 5-8 minutes until Sweet-and-sour Transfer to a bowl with the
deep golden brown and crisp. marinated dried mango once cooked.
4 Meanwhile, put the chicken aubergine salad 2 Meanwhile, make the dressing.
on a board and leave to cool Serves 6-8 as a side Put all the dressing ingredients
slightly. Transfer the croutons Prep time 20 min, plus except the lime juice in a small
to a large bowl. To make a overnight marinating pan and simmer for 6 minutes,
dressing, scrape the fat and Cook time 10 min stirring to dissolve the sugar.
cooking juices from the tray into Leave to cool a little, then pour
a jug, whisk in the remaining 1 The salad is best made over the aubergines. Squeeze
MAKE
tbsp oil, the balsamic and AHEAD a day in advance, giving over the lime juice, stir well,
mustard, and salt and pepper. plenty of time for the then leave to marinate in the
5 Use 2 forks to shred the aubergines to soak up all those fridge (overnight ideally or
chicken and remove the bones. magnificent flavours. for as long as you have).
Season, add to the bowl of BE A Italian caponata is the 3 Remove the aubergines from
croutons with the drained BETTER inspiration for this: a the fridge in good time before
COOK
shallots, lettuce, grapes and dish in which aubergines serving to come up to room
capers, then toss together to are stewed in a sweet-and-sour temperature. Garnish with the
combine. Arrange the salad on a sauce with sultanas. This basil and toasted cashews.
serving platter, then drizzle over Thai-influenced take has a Per serving (for 8) 193kcals,
the chicken fat balsamic sweet chilli dressing, with lime 7.4g fat (1.3g saturated), 2.4g
dressing and crumble over for the sour balance and dried protein, 26g carbs (23g sugars),
shards of crispy chicken. mango replacing the sultanas. 0.1g salt, 4.1g fibre
Per serving (for 6) 397kcals, If you’re not a fan of hot
EASY
17g fat (4g saturated), 26g SWAPS bird’s eye chillies, use
protein, 33g carbs (8.5g sugars), regular red chillies.
0.8g salt, 3.2g fibre
• 3-4 tbsp olive oil
• 3 medium aubergines, cut into
2-3cm cubes
• 100g dried mango, larger
pieces torn into strips
• 10g thai basil (or regular basil
if not available)
• 2 tbsp cashews, toasted
in a dry pan until fragrant

For the dressing NEXT MONTH

• 100g caster sugar Escape the
• 70ml rice vinegar kitchen on
• 1 lemongrass stalk, tough sunny eves
with genius
Find hundreds more salads of every stripe outer leaves removed, finely batch-cook
at deliciousmagazine.co.uk chopped ideas
 The instant
seafood feast
Inspired by Calabrian Seafood ragù • 6 basil leaves, torn
seafood ragù from with spaghetti
Serves 4 1 Heat the oil over a low-
southern Italy, this really Prep time 10 min medium heat in a large shallow
packs in the flavour for Cook time 25 min pan, then add the fennel seeds.
When they begin to sizzle, add
a 30-minute sauce. A Any leftover ragù can the fennel, shallot, carrot and
shoo-in for your cooklist MAKE
AHEAD be frozen and kept garlic, then fry for 5 minutes.
RECIPE AND FOOD STYLING for up to 2 months. Add the wine, cook for 2-3
POLLYANNA COUPLAND You can use fresh, minutes to reduce by half,
PHOTOGRAPH NATO WELTON KNOW-
HOW frozen (defrosted) or then add the passata and
ready-cooked seafood. cook for 8-10 minutes until
If using ready-cooked, warm it reduced by a third. Season.
through in the sauce for 2 2 Once the sauce has reduced,
minutes at the end. cook the spaghetti in salted
boiling water for 10 minutes.
• 1 tbsp olive oil When the spaghetti has
• 1 tsp fennel seeds 5 minutes remaining, add the
• ½ fennel bulb, finely chopped fish and seafood to the sauce,
• 1 banana (echalion) shallot, stir to combine, then leave
finely chopped to cook through (see Know-
• 1 carrot, finely chopped how). Strain the spaghetti, then
• 3 garlic cloves, finely chopped add to the sauce and mix well.
• 125ml dry white wine Divide among bowls, finishing
• 500g passata with the fresh basil and a crack
• 300g dried spaghetti of black pepper.
• 250g monkfish (or cod fillet), Per serving 457kcals, 5.7g fat
NEXT MONTH cut into 1cm cubes (0.9g saturated), 29g protein,
Worship • 200g mixed seafood 61g carbs (10g sugars),
the ‘green
goddess’ (mussels, squid, prawns), 0.9g salt, 5.7g fibre
pasta salad cut into 1cm cubes

102 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
 pasta winner.

Monkfish is perfect in this dish as it holds its

texture well, and you can add in a mixture
of whatever other seafood you have available

Get your regular fix at deliciousmagazine.co.uk/weeklypasta

 AUGUST’S ON SALE
Friday
1 August

IS PACKED PLUS…
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• Rosie Mackean’s magic • Chefs-in-residence • Batch-cook genius to
menu from the coals Jack and Will elevate make summer a doddle
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• Who’s for a sizzling work-of-art pavlova from her trug
hog dog? We have • DIY flavoured • Introducing the green
classic, veggie, fish… vinegars for your goddess pasta salad
• Cool down afterwards summer salad needs • Wonderful things
with a machine-free • Whose bakewell tart with seasonal
ice cream is best – trad or twist? blackberries

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 delicious. competition.

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deliciousmagazine.co.uk 105
It doesn’t get much better than
this for our expert kitchen
gardener Kathy Slack. It’s
peak season – time to enjoy
underappreciated runner beans,
fragrantly flexible thyme and
scene-stealing strawberries

In my
PHOTOGRAPHS KIRSTIE YOUNG
FOOD STYLING KATHY SLACK
 grow, cook, eat.

feel like I’m in a novel. It’s high summer and I am strolling through the kitchen
garden (a grand renaming of my tiny raised beds that suits my mood) in a frock
(impractical, but ditto mood), collecting vegetables in my handmade wooden
trug. The garden is luxuriant – plants dripping with crops, each bed a forest of
green. This is what we growers crave. This moment of glorious abundance.
It’s not always like this. My growing style is too haphazard for the garden to
look this idyllic all the time. I’m too impatient, too forgetful, too rushed for it
to mostly be anything but messy. But July is different. Lush growth hides a
multitude of sins. It distracts the eye from the vegetables that are struggling
or pest-ridden (hello, pockmarked kohlrabi). The gaping holes in the neat rows where
something failed to germinate are easily plugged with spare lettuce plants or hidden by
lolling heads of nasturtiums, calendula and other edible flowers that pepper the beds. A BIT ABOUT KATHY SLACK
Nature papers over the cracks and creates a tranquil scene of plenty such as would grace Kathy is a food writer who has
the backdrop of any romantic English novel. become renowned for her love
of vegetables. Not only does
BEAN CONVERTED she grow them in her garden
Most prolific of all are the runner beans. I used to be a dreadful snob about runners. but she also creates recipes
I thought they were the preserve only of grumpy old Farmer McGregor types who grew and hosts monthly supper clubs
them long, woody and tasteless for entering in village shows. And I think, if we’re honest, from the harvests, as well as
most of us dismiss runner beans as stringy, furry, fibrous sticks. But picked young and teaching cookery classes.
eaten fresh from the vine, they’re sweet and crisp. Read her Substack, Tales From
Also, name me another vegetable that has its own kitchen implement? I dig out The Veg Patch, or follow her on
my underutilised runner bean slicer and prepare young beans for quick-pickling raw, Instagram @gluts_gluttony
or blanching briefly and dousing in a traditional French vinaigrette.
I stew them too, low and slow, in rich tomato sauce to serve on toast.
(I freeze tubs of this stew for the winter.) And on the barbecue, mature
whole runners blister temptingly and can be daubed with goat’s cheese
for a less ordinary barbecue side dish.
When some beans do inevitably turn woody because I didn’t pick
them soon enough, I make piccalilli and line the cupboard under the
stairs with jars like a chutney-obsessed squirrel hoarding for winter.

TIME FOR THYME

Alongside the runner beans, I pick some thyme for my July trug. If you
grow nothing else, grow perennial herbs like thyme. They take no
effort, return year after year, and grace almost every meal with
fragrant depth of flavour. Thyme is especially good because it’s
drought-tolerant and needs only a light prune in late summer after
flowering. In the kitchen, it’s a staple in almost every stew or pasta
sauce I make, as here, and the pretty flowers add a beautiful cheffy
flounce to many dishes, from salads to cakes.
But where thyme really comes to life is in desserts. It’s a cheap trick,
honestly, for making ordinary puddings and bakes more exciting:
thyme-infused pannacotta or cheesecake; cakes sandwiched with
thyme-spiked fruit jam; shortbread or biscuits with flecks of thyme
leaves; and icing speckled with the same.

NEWBIE STRAWBS
With that thought in mind, I check in on my fledgling strawberry patch
on the way back to the kitchen. I planted it accidentally this spring.
I had no plans and no space for a strawberry patch, but a friend offered
me some free baby plants and I couldn’t resist. So now I have a dozen →

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 107
little plants too densely packed into a corner of a raised bed. They
might produce a couple of berries this year, but I buy a punnet from WHAT I’M PICKING IN MY PLOT
a lay-by van and show them what they’re aiming for next year, once Everything. The climbing beans
mature. Strawberries love herbs, basil being the most common festoon the arches between
‘novelty’ pairing. Personally, I favour more aromatic herbs like, the raised beds (great for extra
helpfully, thyme for unexpected strawberry combinations and growing space). From the beds
I often use them together in puddings and cakes, as here in this I pick beetroot, broad beans,
frangipane tart – which is, I think, just the right side of oddly delicious. carrots, courgettes, kohlrabi,
spinach and enough lettuce to
feed a warren of rabbits. In the
greenhouse, the first cucumbers
are ready. The tomatoes have a
way to go but the basil growing
at their feet is abundant. Despite
my neglect, the potatoes in my
allotment are ready to harvest.

WHAT I’M SOWING NOW

July is turnip sowing time. Their
leaves, ready to harvest by
September, are delicious wilted
and you will, I promise, be glad
of the root come winter. I also
sow chard. It might seem like
a dowdy crop now, but in
January when there’s nothing
else to pick, you’ll be grateful
there’s always chard to eat.
There’s also just time to sow
a final row of carrots and dwarf
french beans. Any later and they
won’t have time to swell before
the autumn chill. I fill a few gaps
in the beds with lettuce and
radish seeds too, watering them
so they don’t bolt in the heat.

OTHER JOBS FOR JULY

The biggest (and most tiresome)
job this month is planting out
leek seedlings. Digging 20cm-
deep holes in the sun-baked
soil to drop seedlings into
and ‘puddling’ them in with
water is back-breaking. You
have permission to puddle
yourself in, turning the hosepipe
on your own sweaty body once
the task is done. Planting out
brassicas for winter is more fun.
Using plug plants (seedlings
grown in individual trays) of kale,
purple sprouting broccoli and
cabbages saves the heartache
of trying to germinate them.
 grow, cook, eat.

KATHY’S JOYFUL
JULY RECIPES
Runner bean and thyme
‘carbonara’
“A TANGLE OF SPAGHETTI TOSSED Serves 2
with runner bean ribbons makes for Prep time 15 min
Cook time 20 min
a quick but decadent meal. True
carbonara is made without cream, but • 3 large egg yolks
I think the runner beans benefit from a •
•
30g double cream
50g parmesan, finely grated
more substantial sauce to bask in. If you • 70g diced pancetta
don’t have a runner bean slicer, just slice •
•
2 round shallots, finely sliced
1 garlic clove, crushed
the beans top to tail into thin strips” • 1 tbsp thyme leaves
• 1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
(if needed)
• 120g spaghetti
• 200g runner beans, topped,
tailed and sliced into thin
strips

1 Bring a large pan of well

salted water to the boil. Put
the egg yolks, double cream
and most of the parmesan
in a bowl or jug and beat
together with plenty of pepper
and a little salt. Set aside.
2 Put a wide non-stick frying
pan over a medium-high heat.
Add the pancetta and cook
for 2-3 minutes, then add the
shallots, garlic and thyme and
turn the heat right down. If
the pancetta has not released
much fat you may want to
add the olive oil to help the
shallots cook, otherwise carry
on without. Cover and leave to
cook until the shallots are soft
and sweet (around 15 minutes).
3 Add the spaghetti to the
boiling water and cook for
6 minutes, then add the
runner beans and cook both
for a further 3 minutes. Drain,
reserving a cup of the pasta
and bean water.
4 Add the pasta and beans to
the pan with the pancetta and
toss everything together. The
next part requires a confident →

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 109
 grow, cook, eat.

hand, so think assertive Strawberry and thyme one and put it in the freezer for
thoughts. Remove the frying frangipane tart next time; chill the other for at
pan from the heat. Loosen the Serves 6-8 (with enough least 30 minutes.
egg mixture with a splash of pastry for another case) 2 Roll the chilled pastry between
the reserved pasta cooking Prep time 20 min, plus 1 hour 2 sheets of baking paper until
water, then pour the egg resting and cooling 3mm thick and use it to line the
mixture into the pan and stir Cook time 1 hour 15 min tin. Prick the base all over with
vigorously. The egg will cook Specialist kit 25cm loose- a fork, trim off any overhang,
in the residual heat of the pan bottomed tart tin then put the pastry case in the
so keep it moving or you risk freezer for about 30 minutes.
scrambled eggs. The tart will keep 3 Heat the oven to 180°C/
MAKE
5 Loosen the sauce with AHEAD in a sealed container in 160°C fan/gas 4. Cover the
a splash more cooking water a cool place (but not in semi-frozen pastry with baking
if needed. Spoon onto warmed the fridge – the pastry will go paper and fill with baking beans
plates, top with the remaining soft) for up to 2 days. or uncooked rice. Bake for 20
parmesan and dash to the table. You could make a minutes or until sandy and firm
Per serving 673kcals, 40g fat NEXT MONTH NEXT
different tart with the in the middle. Remove the
TIME
Summer hits
(17g saturated), 29g protein, second lot of pastry. beans/rice and paper, then cook
new heights
46g carbs (5.5g sugars), in Kathy’s veg Search ‘fruit tart’ at for 5-10 minutes more or until
2.1g salt, 5.3g fibre patch – rejoice! deliciousmagazine.co.uk. the pastry is lightly golden.
Remove from the oven and allow
• 5 tbsp strawberry jam to cool. (Leave the oven on.)
• 250g strawberries, hulled 4 While the case cooks, make
and halved the frangipane. Beat the butter,
“IF YOU DON’T HAVE A • 30g flaked almonds sugar and thyme together until
RAGING SWEET TOOTH, • Crème fraîche to serve light and fluffy, then add the
this tart is for you. The thyme (optional) eggs one at a time, beating well
before adding the next one. Mix
brings a fragrance and depth For the pastry in the ground almonds and flour.
to offset the sweetness of • 330g plain flour
• 100g icing sugar
5 To assemble the tart, spread
the jam over the base of the
the frangipane and works • 180g unsalted butter, chilled cooked pastry case. Carefully
beautifully with the floral and chopped spoon the frangipane on top
• 1 tbsp thyme leaves, plus and smooth out the top without
strawberry flavours” more thyme to serve disturbing the jam layer. Press
• 1 medium egg yolk the halved strawberries into the
• 2 tbsp ice-cold water top of the frangipane, cut-side
down. Scatter over the flaked
For the frangipane almonds and return the tart
• 125g unsalted butter, to the oven for 45 minutes or
softened until the frangipane is set.
• 125g caster sugar 6 Serve the tart warm or at
• 2 tbsp thyme leaves room temperature, sprinkled
• 2 medium eggs with more thyme and with
• 110g ground almonds crème fraîche if you like.
• 1 tbsp plain flour Per serving (for 8) 662kcals,
44g fat (21g saturated), 11g
1 For the pastry, whizz the flour, protein, 54g carbs (22g sugars),
icing sugar, butter and thyme in 0.1g salt, 4g fibre
a food processor until the
mixture is sandy in texture. Add
the egg yolk and water and Find more of Kathy’s home-grown
whizz until just combined. happy food at deliciousmagazine.
Shape into 2 equal discs: wrap co.uk/kathyslack

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 111
 Flavour
wrapped up
When that Friday night takeaway craving comes calling, turn to your
air fryer for a speedy and much tastier treat that’s packed with colour
RECIPE TOM SHINGLER PHOTOGRAPH NATO WELTON FOOD STYLING EMILY GUSSIN

Air fryer kofte wrap • 1 pointed (romano) red rectangular slab slightly smaller
Serves 4 pepper, cut into 1cm squares than your air fryer basket. Cut
Prep time 25 min • 1 tbsp olive oil this rectangle lengthways into
Cook time 20 min 4 longer, thinner rectangles.
Specialist kit Air fryer To serve 4 Put the potato mixture in
• 4 flatbreads the bottom of your air fryer,
• ½ red onion, roughly chopped • 4 tbsp greek yogurt then place the kofte in the
• 4 garlic cloves, roughly • ½ red onion, thinly sliced basket that sits above them.
chopped • 15g flatleaf parsley, roughly Cook for 20 minutes, turning
• 15g flatleaf parsley, roughly chopped the kofte and stirring the
chopped • 1 tsp sumac potatoes halfway through.
• 2 tbsp shawarma spice mix • 4 tsp pomegranate molasses (If your air fryer doesn’t have
• 1 tbsp rose harissa paste or hot sauce (or both) a basket, sit the kofte on top
(optional) • Juice 1 lemon of the potato mix. Turn the
• 500g lamb mince (20% fat) kofte/potatoes as above.)
• 1 large floury potato (such 1 Add the onion, garlic, 5 To serve, warm the flatbreads
as maris piper), peeled and parsley, spice mix and harissa for 30 seconds in the microwave
cut into 1cm cubes (if using) to a food processor or air fryer, then spread with
with a big pinch of salt. Whizz the yogurt. Combine the onion,
to a coarse paste, then add parsley, sumac and a pinch of
Air fryers are great when the lamb and whizz again until salt. Divide the potato and
combined. You really want to pepper mixture and kofte
you want meat with a crisp, break down the mince into a among the flatbreads, then top
caramelised exterior and juicy paste-like consistency, so don’t with the onion salad. Drizzle
worry about overworking it. with pomegranate molasses
centre – such as kofte. Cooking 2 Rinse the potato cubes in and/or hot sauce, squeeze over
them over a bed of potatoes cold water to remove the some lemon juice, then roll up
excess starch (this helps them and slice however you like.
and peppers means none of crisp up). Drain, pat dry, then Per wrap 619kcals, 26g fat
that wonderful spiced lamb put in a bowl with the red (11g saturated), 37g protein,
pepper and oil. Toss to coat. 55g carbs (8.2g sugars),
fat goes to waste, creating 3 Heat the air fryer to 190°C. 1g salt, 9g fibre
a fabulous filling for a wrap Shape the lamb mixture into a

112 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
 easy air fryer.

For more easy-cook magic go to

deliciousmagazine.co.uk/airfryer
YOUR
FLEXIBLE
FRIEND
There are so many exciting ways
to prepare and cook courgettes
that they’ll keep you in great meals
all summer long. Time to get
grating, griddling and gorging!
RECIPES AND FOOD STYLING
POLLYANNA COUPLAND AND EMILY GUSSIN
PHOTOGRAPHS INDIA WHILEY-MORTON
 veg of the month.

DELIGHTFUL FOR BRUNCH

OR DINNER, these courgette
fritters are packed with
the bright flavours of dill
and spring onion

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 115
 • They’re actually fruit. The
Latin name is Cucurbita
pepo and courgettes come
from the same family as
pumpkins, cucumbers and
melons. They can be yellow,
green, green-striped, long
and thin or short and round.
In season from June to
September, they’re at their
best in July and August
– so get cooking them now!
• Like squash, the courgette
has its origins in North
and Central America, but
modern varieties (which are
actually marrows bred to
give immature fruit) weren’t
developed until the 19th
century in Italy. Good pub-
quiz knowledge: zucchini
and courgettes both mean
‘little marrows’ in Italian
and French respectively.
Left to grow on the plant,
courgettes will become Hasselback courgettes along where the knife hits the
large, watery marrows with feta, mint and spoon handle. Repeat with the
• Courgettes are so salted almonds other courgette, then transfer
versatile. You can grate Serves 2 to a baking tray and drizzle with
them like carrots to use in Prep time 10 min oil, massaging it into the cuts.
cakes, mix into batter for Cook time 50 min Season with salt and pepper,
fritters or eat them raw in then roast for 45 minutes until
salads. You can stuff them, • 2 medium courgettes meltingly soft on the inside and
shred or spiralise for a • 1 tbsp olive oil starting to crisp on the outside.
pasta alternative, stir-fry, • 1 lemon 2 Remove the courgettes from
grill, griddle, steam or whizz • 75g feta, crumbled the oven. Finely grate over
into a soup… You can even • 400g tin butter beans, the zest of half the lemon and
eat the flowers – stuff with drained and rinsed sprinkle with the feta, then
ricotta spiked with lemon • 80g sun-dried tomatoes, return to the oven for 5 minutes.
zest, dip in a light batter, sliced, plus 1 tbsp of their oil 3 Meanwhile, tip the beans into
then deep-fry. • 3 mint sprigs, leaves picked a bowl with the remaining
and torn lemon zest and a squeeze of
• 1 tbsp salted almonds, lemon juice. Stir in the sun-
roughly chopped dried tomatoes, 1 tbsp of their
oil and the mint leaves. Transfer
THIS IS A FANTASTIC WAY OF 1 Heat the oven to 200ºC/ the salad to a serving platter,
COOKING COURGETTES – 180ºC fan/gas 6. Put the handle then top with the courgettes
of a wooden spoon beside a and sprinkle with the salted
crisp on the outside and tender courgette on a chopping board almonds to serve.
inside. The simple bean and (this will stop you cutting all Per serving 647kcals, 38g fat
the way through). Slice the (9g saturated), 25g protein,
sun-dried tomato salad is the courgette into slim 3-4mm 39g carbs (6.4g sugars), 2g salt,
perfect accompaniment near-coins, attached all the way 21g fibre

116 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
 veg of the month.

Courgette gochujang THIS DISH IS A VARIATION ON A TRADITIONAL

parmigiana with black
sesame PARMIGIANA, using charred courgette slices to soak up
Serves 6 that umami-packed parmesan tomato sauce instead of
Prep time 20 min
Cook time 60 min the usual aubergine. Thing are ramped up even more,
Essential kit 30cm x 23cm thanks to the addition of fiery gochujang paste
baking dish

The dish can be made

MAKE
AHEAD and layered up a day or
two in advance, then
baked fresh when ready to
serve. It freezes well too, so it’s
great for a weekend batch cook.
Gochujang is a Korean
KNOW-
HOW fermented chilli paste.
It’s available from most
large supermarkets – the
Korean brands tend to taste
better (and spicier) than
supermarket own brands.

• 1 tbsp vegetable oil, plus

extra for frying
• 4 large courgettes
• 8 garlic cloves, sliced
• 2 tbsp gochujang paste
(see Know-how)
• 3 x 400g tins chopped
tomatoes
• 30g basil
• 250g ball mozzarella, torn
• 4 tsp black sesame seeds
• 80g parmesan (or a vegetarian
alternative), finely grated

1 Put a large frying pan over

a high heat with a splash of
vegetable oil. Slice the
courgettes lengthways into
long, 5-10mm thick pieces. Fry
the slices (working in batches)
in the hot oil until golden brown
on both sides. Drain on kitchen
paper, then repeat with the
rest, adding more oil as needed.
2 While the courgettes are
frying, make the gochujang
tomato sauce. Put a large
saucepan over a medium heat
with the 1 tbsp vegetable oil.
Add the sliced garlic and cook
gently for a minute until just →
 softening, then add the
PILE THESE SWEET-AND-SOUR COURGETTES gochujang paste and tinned
onto toast, enjoy them as part of a multi-dish tomatoes. Simmer until reduced
mezze or serve as a classy barbecue side by half, then season well with
salt and pepper.
3 Heat the oven to 180°C/
160ºC fan/gas 4. To assemble
the parmigiana, cover the base
of the baking dish with a single
layer of courgette slices. Next,
add a few torn basil leaves, then
top with tomato sauce, followed
by some torn mozzarella, a
sprinkle of black sesame seeds
and some grated parmesan.
Repeat the layers until
everything is used up, then
bake in the oven for 35-40
minutes until bubbling and
golden. Leave to rest for
5 minutes before serving.
Per serving 411kcals, 25g fat
(13g saturated), 26g protein,
18g carbs (15g sugars),
1.9g salt, 4.3g fibre

Blistered courgette
agrodolce
Serves 6 as a side
Prep time 15 min
Cook time 15 min

This will keep for up to

MAKE
AHEAD 3 days in a container in
the fridge. In fact, the
longer you leave it the more
the courgettes will soak up the
flavours. If you’re taking it from
the fridge, let the courgettes
come back to room temperature
before eating.
Agrodolce is a type of
KNOW-
HOW sticky, intense, sweet-
and-sour Italian
condiment. Usually made with
sugar or honey, vinegar and
sometimes fruit, it goes well with
griddled courgettes.

• 3 medium courgettes,
thickly sliced
• 4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 tbsp pine nuts
 veg of the month.

• 1 shallot, finely sliced 1 Use a peeler to shave 50g

• 1 red chilli, finely sliced of long ribbons from the side of
• 2 garlic cloves, finely sliced a courgette. Put the ribbons in
• 2 tbsp red wine vinegar the ice-cold water in the fridge
• 2 tsp honey or date syrup to help them curl up. Coarsely
• 2 tbsp sultanas or raisins grate the rest of the courgettes
• 1 tbsp capers, drained and into a colander, then mix in the
rinsed salt. Leave over the sink or a
bowl to drain for 30 minutes.
1 Heat a large griddle pan over a 2 Drain the grated courgettes,
medium-high heat (or fire up the then transfer to a clean tea
barbecue). Put the courgettes Courgette fritters with towel and squeeze out any
in a bowl and drizzle with 1 tbsp lemon dill yogurt, excess liquid. Tip into a large
of the oil, season with salt and courgette ribbons bowl and add the spring onions,
pepper, then toss to coat. Cook and ham a third of the dill and the gram
for 5-8 minutes on each side (in Serves 4 (makes 8 fritters) flour, then stir until everything
batches if needed) until charred Prep time 35 min, plus salting is combined. Add the eggs and
and tender (it will take less time Cook time 10 min stir to combine again.
on a barbecue than in a pan as 3 Heat the oil in a frying pan
it will be much hotter). We’ve used gram flour, over a medium heat. Dollop
BE A
2 Toast the pine nuts in a dry BETTER which is made from spoonfuls of the courgette
COOK
frying pan over a medium heat chickpeas – it gives the mixture into the pan (roughly an
for a few minutes until golden fritters a nutty, toasted flavour eighth of the mixture per fritter
(if you’re barbecuing the and it also means they’re – see Be A Better Cook) and
courgettes you could brown the gluten free. flatten slightly with a spatula.
pine nuts in a tray or pan on the If you’d like your fritters to be Fry in batches for 2-3 minutes
grill). Add the remaining 3 tbsp neatly round, shape them using until golden underneath and
oil and, once warm, add the a greased crumpet ring. starting to set at the edges,
shallot, chilli and garlic. Cook Any leftover fritters then flip and cook for 1-2
DON’T
for about 4 minutes until WASTE can be frozen to use minutes more. Transfer the
IT
softened, stirring regularly. another day. Reheat fritters to a wire rack over
Add the vinegar, honey/syrup, from frozen in a pan over a a tray to drain, then repeat
sultanas/raisins and capers, medium heat or in an air fryer. with the remaining mixture.
then simmer for a few minutes. Swap the ham for a 4 Meanwhile, in a medium bowl,
EASY
Remove from the heat and SWAPS salty cheese like feta mix the yogurt, lemon zest,
season with salt and pepper. or grilled halloumi – or, a squeeze of the lemon juice,
3 Arrange the courgettes on a if you prefer, fried eggs. most of the remaining dill
serving plate and pour over the (reserving some to serve)
warm agrodolce. Serve warm or • 800g courgettes (3-4) and some salt and pepper.
keep in a container in the fridge • Bowl ice-cold water 5 Drain the courgette ribbons,
to use later (see Make Ahead). • 1 tsp fine salt season with salt and pepper
Per serving 121kcals, 8.8g fat • 3 spring onions, finely sliced and toss with the extra-virgin
(1.3g saturated), 1.8g protein, • 20g dill, chopped olive oil and remaining lemon
8.4g carbs (8.1g sugars), • 100g gram (chickpea) flour juice. Serve the fritters topped
0.1g salt, 0.9g fibre • 2 medium eggs, beaten with a dollop of the yogurt,
• 4 tbsp sunflower oil for some courgette ribbons and the
frying ham. Drizzle with a little more oil
• 200g greek yogurt and scatter over the reserved
• Finely grated zest and juice dill. Serve with the remnants of
1 lemon the lemon, cut into wedges.
• 8 slices coppa or serrano Per serving 426kcals, 27g fat
Find oodles more ideas for (dry-cured) ham (5.7g saturated), 25g protein, NEXT MONTH
Go rambling
seasonal star courgettes at • 1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, 20g carbs (7.2g sugars), for brambles
deliciousmagazine.co.uk plus extra to serve 2.2g salt, 3.9g fibre to cook with

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 119
 The best
BBQ side
Refreshing, satisfying Crispy paprika beans • Juice 1 lemon
and smoky, this flavour- with mint slaw • 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
Serves 2-4 as a side • 15g mint, leaves picked and
packed side salad is Prep time 15 min finely sliced
guaranteed to elevate Cook time 35-40 min
1 Heat the oven to 180°C/
whatever else you You can roast the 160°C fan/gas 4. Add the beans,
have on your plate MAKE
AHEAD beans up to 24 hours paprika, oil and garlic to a large
RECIPE TOM SHINGLER in advance, then keep baking dish with a pinch of salt.
PHOTOGRAPH NATO WELTON them in an airtight container Mix until the beans are all tinted
FOOD STYLING EMILY GUSSIN at room temperature. The slaw red, then roast for 35-40
is best made relatively fresh minutes, stirring occasionally.
otherwise the cabbage will 2 Meanwhile, put the cabbage
become too soft, but you could in a mixing bowl and add
get the dish ready about an a big pinch of salt. Scrunch
hour before serving. it together with your hands
You can cook the beans for about a minute until the
AIR
FRYER in an air fryer heated to shredded cabbage separates
180°C – just give them and begins to soften.
a stir halfway through and 3 Mix together the garlic, lemon
check them after 25 minutes as juice and olive oil, then pour
they may cook slightly faster. over the cabbage and mix well.
4 Once the beans are ready,
• 700g jar queen butter beans stir the mint leaves into the
(we used Bold Bean Co), cabbage. Transfer to a serving
WHY BEANS ARE THE drained, rinsed and patted dry dish, then pile the beans in
BUSINESS • 1 tsp sweet smoked paprika the centre (discarding the
They’re one of the best • 2 tbsp olive oil garlic cloves).
natural sources of dietary • 3 garlic cloves, bashed but Per serving (for 4) 333kcals,
fibre and a rich source of unpeeled 15g fat (1.9g saturated), 12g
protein and complex protein, 31g carbs (4.5g sugars),
carbohydrates. Growing For the slaw 1.4g salt, 14g fibre
beans is good for improving • ½ white cabbage, finely
soil health and biodiversity, shredded
and reducing greenhouse • 1 garlic clove, finely grated
gases. Plus, they’re
affordable and taste great!
Get seriously beany at deliciousmagazine.co.uk/beans

120 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
 magic beans.

The slaw is based on the

Lebanese dish salatet malfouf,
full of salty refreshing
crunch, while the beans have
a smoky richness reminiscent
of Spain. The two work
together beautifully
The cosmopolitan south coast resort
PHOTOGRAPH: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES

sustains a thriving restaurant and bar

scene – with sun, sea and shingle
thrown in. Travel writer and long-time
resident Norman Miller lets us in on the
best of Brighton (not forgetting its
esteemed neighbour Hove, of course)
 my town.

W
hether you’re
exploring The
Lanes, that
maze of narrow
streets in the
oldest part of town, fishing for
something good on the seafront
or just need a cooling beer, don’t
worry – I’ve got you covered.
Let’s take a stroll together and
breathe in that salty sea air.

TERRIFIC TASTING MENUS AND

A VERY GOOD VEGGIE
Regarded by many as the top
restaurant in Brighton right now,
Furna (furnarestaurant.co.uk)
is in the centre of town by the
18th-century Theatre Royal. It
puts on gourmet performances
with a nine-course tasting menu
but also offers affordable à la
carte dishes like confit duck leg
with grilled peach and coco
beans or Sussex tomatoes with
curds, olive and elderflower.
For inventive modern-British
fine dining, try Dilsk (dilsk.co.uk),
a zero-waste kitchen beneath
Georgian seafront hotel Drakes.
There, chef Tom Stephens creates
short, well priced tasting menus
featuring innovative combos
such as grey mullet with
strawberry and lovage, plus
neglected ingredients like spider
crab paired with cod and sorrel.
Vegetarians and vegans won’t
go hungry, either. On a London
Road side street, Bonsai Plant
Kitchen (bonsaiplantkitchen.
co.uk), with its dragon murals and
neon wall lights, transports you
to a backstreet Tokyo diner.
Superb dishes such as tempura
‘sea bream’ and char siu ‘chicken’
skewers are made entirely from
plant ingredients and cooked on
the Japanese-style charcoal grill.

GORGEOUS GLOBAL
The Regency splendour Palmito (palmito.co.uk) is a
of the Royal Pavilion by former takeaway turned 20-seat
architect John Nash pink-walled space where chef →

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 123
 Diego Ricaurte merges South Burnt Orange (burnt-orange. …AND THERE’S HOVE TOO
American and South Asian co.uk) in The Lanes. Come for Just a five-minute train ride or
flavours in an innovative way. deceptively simple-sounding 20 minute walk away, Brighton’s
Think crisp celeriac masala dishes like mussels on toast with chi-chi neighbour Hove has foodie
with stuffed padrón peppers or young leeks and urfa chilli haunts well worth a visit. Behind
Peruvian-style sea bass tiradito butter, or crispy artichokes with a Tesco car park, The Urchin
with kiwi and raspberry leche cashew cream and pickled pear. (urchinpub.co.uk) is a gem of
de tigre. Near the historic Duke a gastropub (with an on-site
of York’s cinema, Kitgum ICE CREAMS, COCKTAILS microbrewery) serving seafood
(kitgumkitchen.com) offers an AND PROPER PINTS such as roasted scallop with
unfussy celebration of East The new Brighton branch of celeriac and apple, or crispy soft-
African and Indian dishes like Badiani (badiani1932.com), shell crab with Chongqing spice.
Kenyan lamb sausage with pinto which began in Florence and is Fourth and Church
beans and green peppercorn, or slowly taking over the world, is a (fourthandchurch.co.uk) began
charred aubergine curry with must-stop for ice cream slurpers. as a wine-shop-with-snacks but
crispy aubergine bajia, date and The intense dark chocolate and now serves delights like pork
tamarind. If you like your food sweet-savoury pistachio are char siu with mustard plums and
caramelised peanuts, augmented,
as you’d expect, by superb wines.
“Badiani, which began in Florence and is slowly taking Further along Church Road,
over the world, is a must-stop for ice cream slurpers” Wild Flor (wildflor.com) is the
perfect laidback neighbourhood
gaff, offering dishes such as Sussex
fast, Shelter Hall (shelterhall. standouts but it’s all good stuff. venison with jerusalem artichoke
co.uk) has pop-up kitchens Celebrated for its seriously good and grapes alongside great set
offering pukka global eats in cocktails, from a ‘Thums up’ menus, from £22 (two courses).
a fabulous beachfront location. sazerac to an orange-wine
margarita, Permit Room WHEN YOU’RE NOT EATING
ONE-MAN SHOW (permitroom.co.uk) is a spin-off AND DRINKING
Restaurateur Razak Helalat has of the Dishoom Bombay-style café Combine the Brighton Museum
given Brighton a set of excellent chain, just up from Palace Pier. & Gallery (brightonmuseums.
restaurants: seafront seafood Enjoy a cocktail with a nibble – org.uk) – opposite George IV’s
sensation The Salt Room crispy spinach chaat – then move eastern-fantasy Royal Pavilion
(saltroom-restaurant.co.uk); on to a classic curry. If you’re on – with Hove Museum of
North Laine Italian Tutto the beach, thirsty for a craft beer, Creativity’s charming displays
(tutto-restaurant.co.uk); and the hidden away just behind the of vintage toys and modern craft.
shrine to grilled meat and fish seafront is the small, welcoming Browse Britain’s finest cluster of
that is The Coal Shed in its new The Hole In The Wall cool indie shops in North Laine,

PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES, TRAVEL BRIGHTON - ELLEN RICHARDSON

NEXT MONTH North Street spot (coalshed- (theholeinthewall.net) – so then visit the Open Market
A foodie restaurant.co.uk). Holder of the called, apparently, because (brightonopenmarket.co.uk) to
adventure in
Trøndelag, people-voted Brighton’s Best fishermen used to be served get yourself some shades and
Norway Restaurant 2025, however, is outside through a hatch. bring that seaside vibe home.

WHERE TO STAY
Artist Residence is a bohemian hangout wood floors, charcoal grey decor
with art-filled, individually styled rooms and flea market finds. Below it is
on a square overlooking the evocative an outstanding brasserie beloved by
ruined West Pier. Doubles from £140 savvy locals. Doubles from £124 B&B,
(room only), artistresidence.co.uk gingerpigbrighton.co.uk
The Ginger Pig (left) Set between
restaurant-filled Church Road and the For more information see
seafront in Hove, this place has elegant visitbrighton.co.uk
 my town.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP

Cocktail from Bonsai Plant
Kitchen; on the menu at
Burnt Orange; fine dining
at Dilsk; Dishoom’s Permit
Room; seafood from The
Urchin; Brighton Palace Pier

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 125
TüßùēěĶĔijǴ ěĩåüÓčĭǴ*ĩüĭùǴčåéĩóčěŅéĩǴ9üĨĶéĶĩ 'ěŅǴÓǴĭĦéßüÓčijŋǴßěóóééǴĭĶÞĭßĩüĦijüěĔǴßÓĔǴĭÓńéǴŋěĶǴóĩěē
Richmount Irish Elderflower Liqueur éēÞÓĩĩÓĭĭēéĔij
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David and Martina Burns, founders of think of when you open your
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Cordial Company in County Longford. to make sure that you’re
Since 2014, the couple has always fully stocked for your
been handcrafting premium morning brew. A specialty
elderflower and elderberry cordials. coffee subscription means
David and Martina have now created a you never have to suffer the
uniquely Irish, silky-smooth embarrassment of running
elderflower liqueur that captures the down to the corner shop in
authentic taste of elderflower and your PJs on a Saturday
the essence of summer. All the morning because you again
elderflowers are grown and harvested forgot to buy your favourite
on their farm, infused within hours, beans. Your coffee arrives at
ensuring a liqueur tasting of peak a frequency that works for
freshness and superior quality. you, and you aren't stuck with
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balanced, it’s ideal for sipping neat,
elevating cocktails, or gifting to the Click, subscribe, brew - easy!
discerning drinks enthusiast.

www.richmountcordials.ie

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at a glance.

July ESSENTIAL RECIPE INFO

Our symbols explained
You can freeze all or most

RECIPE INDEX of the recipe. Unless stated

otherwise, freeze the finished
dish for up to 3 months.
Defrost and heat until piping
hot throughout.

Vegetarian Vegan
• Courgette fritters with • Courgette gochujang Gluten free Dairy free
lemon dill yogurt, courgette parmigiana with black Recipes with these symbols
ribbons and ham 119 sesame 117 are suitable for special diets
• Fourtalia (eggs with • Crunchy broccoli and provided you choose
sausages, potatoes and five-herb salad 93 appropriate free-from
mint) 31 • Elotes pasta salad 98 ingredients – always check the
label. Other recipes can be
• Mojo steak and black • Hasselback courgettes with
adapted for special diets – see
bean salad 100 feta, mint and salted our Make It Veggie and Easy
• Runner bean and thyme almonds 116 Swaps tips.
‘carbonara’ 109 • Simple super greens
• Seared chipotle steak bowls pasta 85 Standard kit
with charred corn salad 83 • Sweet-and-sour Our recipes assume cooks
will have a food processor/

78
• Ultimate barbecue marinated aubergine salad
blender/stick blender; an
cheeseburger 56 101 electric stand mixer/hand
• ‘Tarka’ tomato salad mixer; a selection of pans, tins
Fish and seafood 91 and casseroles; baking paper
• Confit tuna salad with • Thai red coconut gyoza and kitchen paper. We give
STARTERS, SIDES potatoes, chickpeas and soup 86 alternative methods for
combining ingredients if
& SNACKS tomato dressing 25 • Whipped ricotta and possible and specify the size
• Chilled cucumber and • Prawn cocktail potato slow-roasted tomato of dish/tin if relevant.
yogurt soup with prawns salad 97 gnocchi 84 We also think a digital probe
and dill 24 • Salmon with fennel and thermometer is helpful for
• Chingri macher bora dill 8 SWEET THINGS cooking meat, making jam etc.
(Bangladeshi prawn fritters) • Seafood ragù with spaghetti • Aam firni (Bangladeshi
Prep and cooking times
72 102 mango and ground rice All our timings include prep.
• Choriatiki (Greek salad) • Smoked mackerel soba pudding) 74 Prep time is when you’re
30 noodle salad with carrot, • Black Forest crumble chopping, stirring, assembling,
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deliciousmagazine.co.uk 129
stirring it up.

How did I not realise

ICE CREAM
is the best thing ever?
It took her a
while, but
food writer
y daughter Laura and one of hazelnut – or in other
came home Goodman words, when I became a fully
from school paid up foodie with a capital F
all lit up about
has come to appreciate (nom nom). When in Rome, eh?
a new ice the generation-uniting It’s the possibilities of ice
cream she’d wonder of a good scoop cream that thrill me. Custard-
discovered at lunchtime. “It’s based, ricotta-based, soft serve,
like, three flavours in a pattern: gelato, sherbet, sorbet. Fruity,
vanilla, strawberry and chocolate. Do you creamy or boozy; laced with chunks or smooth as
understand, mum? Three flavours in one.” silk. Last Christmas, when I realised we wouldn’t
It was heartening to discover that a five-year-old get through the Christmas pud before we went on
with a freezerful of artisanal gelato could still be holiday, I hurriedly knocked up an amazing no-churn
wowed by the simple, striped pleasure of Neapolitan. vanilla ice cream swirled through with Advocaat
Like her, I’ve always been enthusiastic about ice and the last chunks of the pudding. Last spring,
cream. I had an acute awareness of the different types I experienced a new level of creaminess at Folderol
and their various applications from an early age: in Paris. Ice cream’s revelations just keep coming.
Viennetta after Sunday lunch, Arctic Roll on a school I think, in summer, whatever age you are, you
day but only once a week, choc ices for in the garden should have an ice cream every day and not think
WHAT DO in the summer holidays, a tub of Gino (oh Gino) twice about it. And adults should never comment on
YOU THINK? Ginelli (toffee fudge) when it was on offer at Tesco. the size of a child’s ice cream – tempting though it is
Should ice However, even as a child, I would have prioritised when their entire face is obscured by Mr Whippy.
cream be a pudding over an ice cream – an apple crumble, a pile Ice cream unites us like no other food: tongues out,
prescribed on of profiteroles, a fruit-laden pavlova, a hefty suet- hearts full, giddy togetherness. One of my children
the NHS or based number steamed in a basin. I wanted pudding has an egg and dairy allergy, and there are now so
does it leave in the most puddingy sense of the word, and ice many great sorbets and vegan ice cream options,
you cold? cream was just… ice cream. If I saw it at the bottom she never has to feel like she’s missing out.
Let us know of a restaurant menu, priced per scoop, I felt almost This isn’t to say that ice cream isn’t without its
on our social sorry for it. Imagine how desperate you’d have to be perils for the very young – it melts, it droops, it slaps
channels or at to choose that instead of pudding! the pavement. It causes the sort of heartbreak that
info@ This line of thinking went on for years. In fact, if keeps little brains awake at night. But these are life
delicious you were to trace the precise point my outlook shifted lessons, there to be learned. And the key lesson is:
magazine. it would probably be when, in Rome, I ordered a choc- ice cream is excellent.
co.uk dipped waffle cone with one scoop of zuppa inglese Follow Laura on Instagram @laurajgood

130 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
Available at Asda, Co-op, Morrisons, Ocado,
Sainbury’s, Tesco & Waitrose. Subject to availability.