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Discovering Diverse Content Through
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all moisture from the dark mass by rolling on a slab and warming
before the fire occasionally so as to keep it soft. When quite dry add
2 1/4 times its weight of turpentine and put it over a small flame for
about 2 hours; then slightly increase the heat for another hour and a
half. Allow this to stand about 24 hours, and then take a glazed bowl
and spread over the bottom of it 1,760 parts, by weight, of finely
powdered bismuth; pour the prepared gold over it in several places.
Now take a vessel containing water and place inside the other vessel
containing the gold, and heat it so as to cause the water to boil for 3
hours; allow it to remain until settled and pour off the gold from the
settlings of the bismuth, and try it; if not quite right continue the last
process with bismuth until good; the bismuth causes the gold to
adhere.
Preparation Of Balsam Of Sulphur.—Take 16 parts oil of
turpentine; 2 1/2 parts spirits of turpentine; 8 parts flour of sulphur.
Place all in a chemical pot and heat until it boils; continue the
boiling until no sulphur can be seen in it; now remove from the heat
and thin it with turpentine until about the thickness of treacle, then
warm it again, stirring well; allow it to cool until it reaches 45° F.,
then test it with the hydrometer, and if specific gravity is not 995
continue the addition of turpentine and warming until correct, let it
thoroughly cool, then bottle, keeping it air-tight.
To Purify Bismuth.—Take 6 parts bismuth metal, 3/4 part
saltpeter. Melt together in a biscuit cup, pour out on to a slab, and
take away all dirt, then grind into a fine powder.
To Recover The Gold From The Remains Of The Foregoing
Process.—Put all the “watery” solutions into a large vessel and mix
with a filtered saturated solution of copperas; this will cause {381} a
precipitate of pure metallic gold to gradually subside; wash it with
cold water and dry in an evaporating dish.
 All rags and settlings that are thick should be burnt in a crucible
until a yellow mass is seen; then take this and dissolve it in 2 parts
muriatic acid and 1 part nitric acid. Let it remain in a porcelain dish
until it begins to thicken, and crystals form on the sides. Add a little
nitric acid, and heat until crystals again form. Now take this and mix
with cold water, add a solution of copperas to it and allow it to
settle; pour off the water, and with fresh water wash till quite free
from acid. The gold may then be used again, and if great care is
exercised almost one-half the original quantity may be recovered.
The quantities given in the recipe should produce about 13 to 15
parts of the liquid gold. It does not in use require any burnishing,
and should be fired at rose-color heat. If desired it can be fluxed
with Venice turpentine, oil of lavender, or almonds.
Treatment Of Brittle Gold.—I.—Add to every 100 parts, by
weight, 5 to 8 parts, by weight, of cupric chloride and melt until the
oily layer which forms has disappeared. Then pour out, and in most
cases a perfectly pliable gold will have been obtained. If this should
not be the case after the first fusion, repeat the operation with the
same quantity of cupric chloride. The cupric chloride must be kept in
a well-closed bottle, made tight with paraffine, and in a dry place.
II.—Pass chlorine gas through the molten gold, by which
treatment most of the gold which has otherwise been set aside as
unfit for certain kinds of work may be redeemed.
Assaying Of Gold.—To determine the presence of gold in ores,
etc., mix a small quantity of the finely powdered ore in a flask with
an equal volume of tincture of iodine, shake repeatedly and well,
and leave in contact about 1 hour, with repeated shaking. Next allow
the mixture to deposit and dip a narrow strip of filtering paper into
the solution. Allow the paper to absorb, next to dry; then dip it again
into the solution, repeating this 5 to 6 times, so that the filtering
paper is well saturated and impregnated. The strip is now calcined,
as it were, and the ashes, if gold is present, show a purple color. The
coloring disappears immediately if the ashes are moistened with
bromine water. The same test may also be modified as follows:
Cover the finely pulverized ore with bromine water, shake well and
repeatedly during about 1 hour of the contact, and filter. Now add to
the solution stannic protochloride in solution, whereby, in case gold
is present, a purple color (gold purple of Cassius) will at once
appear. In case the ore to be assayed contains sulphides, it is well to
roast the ore previously, and should it contain lime carbonate, it is
advisable to calcine the ore before in the presence of ammonium
carbonate.
Gold Welding.—Gold may be welded together with any metal, if
the right methods are employed, but best with copper. Some recipes
for welding agents are here given.
I.—Two parts by weight (16 ounces equal 1 pound) of green
vitriol; 1 part by weight (16 ounces equal 1 pound) of saltpeter; 6
parts by weight (16 ounces equal 1 pound) of common salt; 1 part
by weight (16 ounces equal 1 pound) of black manganic oxide or
pulverized, and mixed with 48 parts by weight (16 ounces equal 1
pound) of good welding sand.
II.—Filings of the metal to be used in welding are mixed with
melted borax in the usual proportion. To be applied in the thickness
desired.
III.—A mixture of 338 parts of sodium phosphate and 124 parts of
boracic acid is used when the metal is at dark-red heat. The metal is
then to be brought to a bright-red heat, and hammered at the same
time. The metal easily softens at a high temperature, and a wooden
mallet is best. All substances containing carbon should be removed
from the surface, as success depends upon the formation of a fusible
copper phosphate, which dissolves a thin layer of oxide on the
surface, and keeps the latter in good condition for welding.
To Recover Gold-Leaf Waste.—To recover the gold from color
waste, gold brushes, rags, etc., they are burned up to ashes. The
ashes are leached with boiling water containing hydrochloric acid.
The auriferous residuum is then boiled with aqua regia (1 part nitric
acid and 3 parts hydrochloric acid), whereby the gold is dissolved
and gold chloride results. After filtration and evaporation to dryness
the product is dissolved in water and precipitated with sulphate of
protoxide of iron. The precipitated gold powder is purified with
hydrochloric acid.
Gold From Acid Coloring Baths.—I.—Different lots are to be
poured together {382} and the gold in them recovered. The following
method is recommended: Dissolve a handful of phosphate of iron in
boiling water, to which liquor add the coloring baths, whereby small
particles of gold are precipitated. Then draw off the water, being
careful not to dissolve the auriferous sediment at the bottom. Free
this from all traces of acid by washing with plenty of boiling water; it
will require 3 or 4 separate washings, with sufficient time between
each to allow the water to cool and the sediment to settle before
pouring off the water. Then dry in an iron vessel by the fire and fuse
in a covered skittlepot with a flux.
II.—The collected old coloring baths are poured into a sufficiently
large pot, an optional quantity of nitro-muriatic acid is added, and
the pot is placed over the fire, during which time the fluid is stirred
with a wooden stick. It is taken from the fire after a while, diluted
largely with rain water and filtered through coarse paper. The gold is
recovered from the filtered solution with a solution of green vitriol
which is stored in air-tight bottles, then freshened with hot water,
and finally smelted with borax and a little saltpeter.
Parting With Concentrated Sulphuric Acid.—It is not
necessary scrupulously to observe the exact proportion of the gold
to the silver. After having prepared the auriferous silver, place it in a
quantity of concentrated sulphuric acid contained in a porcelain
vessel, and let it come to a violent boil. When the acid has either
become saturated and will dissolve no more, or when solution is
complete, remove the dissolving vessel from the fire, let it cool, and,
for the purpose of clarifying, pour dilute sulphuric acid into the
solution. The dissolved silver is next carefully decanted from the gold
sediment upon the bottom, another portion of concentrated acid is
poured in, and the gold is well boiled again, as it will still contain
traces of silver; this operation may be repeated as often as is
deemed necessary. The solution, poured into the glass jars, is well
diluted with water, and the silver is then precipitated by placing a
sheet of copper in the solution. The precipitate is then freshened
with hot water, which may also be done by washing upon the filter;
the granulated silver (sulphate of silver) is pressed out in linen, dried
and smelted. The freshened gold, after drying, is first smelted with
bisulphate of soda, in order to convert the last traces of silver into
sulphate, and then smelted with borax and a little saltpeter.
To Remove Gold From Silver.—I.—Gold is taken from the
surface of silver by spreading over it a paste, made of powdered sal
ammoniac with aqua fortis and heating it till the matter smokes and
is nearly dry, when the gold may be separated by rubbing it with the
scratch brush.
II.—The alloy is to be melted and poured from a height into a
vessel of cold water, to which a rotary motion is imparted, or else it
is to be poured through a broom. By this means the metal is reduced
to a fine granular condition. The metallic substance is then treated
with nitric acid, and gently heated. Nitrate of silver is produced,
which can be reduced by any of the ordinary methods; while metallic
gold remains as a black sediment, which must be washed and
melted.
Simple Specific Gravity Test.—A certain quantity of the metal
is taken and drawn out into a wire, which is to be exactly of the
same length as one from fine silver; of course, both must have been
drawn through the same hole, silver being nearly 1/2 lighter than
gold, it is natural that the one of fine silver must be lighter, and the
increased weight of the wire under test corresponds to the
percentage of gold contained in it.
To Make Fat Oil Gold Size.—First thin up the fat oil with
turpentine to workable condition; then mix a little very finely ground
pigment with the gold size, about as much as in a thin priming coat.
Make the size as nearly gold color as is convenient; chrome yellow
tinted with vermilion is as good as anything for this purpose. Then
thin ready for the brush with turpentine, and it will next be in order
to run the size through a very fine strainer. Add japan, as experience
or experiment may teach, to make it dry tacky about the time the
leaf is to be laid. Dry slowly, because the slower the size dries, the
longer it will hold its proper tackiness when it is once in that
condition.
To Dissolve Copper From Gold Articles.—Take 2 ounces of
proto-sulphate of iron and dissolve it in 1/2 a pint of water, then add
to it in powder 2 ounces of nitrate of potash; boil the mixture for
some time, and afterwards pour it into a shallow vessel to cool and
crystallize; then to every part of the crystallized salt add 8 ounces of
muriatic acid, and preserve in a bottle for use. Equal parts of the
above preparation and of boiling water is a good proportion to use in
dissolving copper, or 1 part by weight {383} of nitric acid may be used
to 4 parts by weight of boiling water as a substitute.
Gold Purple.
I.—The solution of stannous chloride necessary for the preparation
of gold purple is produced by dissolving pure tin in pure hydrochloric
acid (free from iron), in such a manner that some of the tin remains
undissolved, and evaporating the solution, into which a piece of tin is
laid, to crystallization.
II.—Recipe for Pale Purple.—Dissolve 2 parts by weight of tin in
boiling aqua regia, evaporate the solution at a moderate heat until it
becomes solid, dissolve in distilled water and add 2 parts by weight
of a solution of stannous chloride (specific gravity 1.7) dilute with
9,856 parts by weight of water, stir into the liquid a solution of gold
chloride prepared from 0.5 parts by weight of gold and containing no
excess of acid (the latter being brought about by evaporating the
solution of gold chloride to dryness and heating for some time to
about 320° F.). This liquid is dimmed by the admixture of 50 parts by
weight of liquid ammonia which eliminates the purple. The latter is
quickly filtered off, washed out and while still moist rubbed up with
the glass paste. This consists of enamel of lead 20 parts by weight;
quartzose sand, 1 part by weight; red lead, 2 parts by weight; and
calcined borax, 1 part by weight, with silver carbonate, 3 parts by
weight.
III.—Recipe for Dark Gold Purple.—Gold solution of 0.5 parts by
weight of gold, solution of stannous chloride (specific gravity 1.7) 7.5
parts by weight; thin with 9,856 parts by weight of water, separate
the purple by a few drops of sulphuric acid, wash out the purple and
mix same with enamel of lead 10 parts by weight and silver
carbonate, 0.5 parts by weight.
IV.—Recipe for Pink Purple.—Gold solution of 1 part by weight of
gold; solution of 50 parts by weight of alum in 19,712 parts by
weight of water; add 1.5 parts by weight of stannous chloride
solution (specific gravity 1.7) and enough ammonia until no more
precipitate is formed; mix the washed out precipitate, while still
moist, with 70 parts by weight of enamel of lead and 2.5 parts by
weight of silver carbonate. According to the composition of the
purple various reds are obtained in fusing it on; the latter may still
be brightened up by a suitable increase of the flux.
 To Render Pale Gold Darker.—Take verdigris, 50 parts by
weight and very strong vinegar, 100 parts by weight. Dissolve the
verdigris in the vinegar, rub the pieces with it well, heat them and
dip them in liquid ammonia diluted with water. Repeat the operation
if the desired shade does not appear the first time. Rinse with clean
water and dry.
To Color Gold.—Gilt objects are improved by boiling in the
following solution: Saltpeter, 2 parts by weight; cooking salt, 1 part
by weight; alum, 1 part by weight; water, 24 parts by weight;
hydrochloric acid, 1 part by weight (1.12 specific gravity). In order to
impart a rich appearance to gilt articles, the following paste is
applied: Alum, 3 parts by weight; saltpeter, 2 parts by weight; zinc
vitriol, 1 part by weight; cooking salt, 1 part by weight; made into a
paste with water. Next, heat until black, on a hot iron plate, wash
with water, scratch with vinegar and dry after washing.
Gold-Leaf Striping.—To secure a good job of gilding depends
largely for its beauty upon the sizing. Take tube chrome yellow
ground in oil, thin with wearing body varnish, and temper it ready
for use with turpentine. Apply in the evening with an ox-tail striper,
and let it stand until the next morning, when, under ordinary
circumstances, it will be ready for the gold leaf, etc. After the gilding
is done, let the job stand 24 hours before varnishing.
Composition Of Aqua Fortis For The Touch-Stone.—
Following are the three compositions mostly in use: I.—Nitric acid,
30 parts; hydrochloric acid, 3 parts; distilled water, 20 parts.
II.—Nitric acid, 980 parts by weight; hydrochloric acid, 20 parts by
weight.
III.—Nitric acid, 123 parts by weight; hydrochloric acid, 2 parts by
weight.
To Remove Soft Solder From Gold.—Place the work in spirits
of salts (hydrochloric acid) or remove as much as possible with the
scraper, using a gentle heat to remove the solder more easily.
Tipping Gold Pens.—Gold pens are usually tipped with iridium.
This is done by soldering very small pieces to the points and filing to
the proper shape.
To Recognize Whether An Article Is Gilt.—Simply touch the
object with a glass rod previously dipped into a solution of bichloride
of copper. If the article has been gilt the spot touched should remain
intact, while it presents a {384} brown stain if no gold has been
deposited on its surface.
To Burnish Gilt Work.—Ale has proved a very good substitute
for soap and water in burnishing gilt as it increases the ease and
smoothness with which it is accomplished. Vinegar is a somewhat
poorer substitute for ale.
White-Gold Plates Without Solder.—The gold serving as a
background for white-gold is rolled in the desired dimensions and
then made perfectly even under a powerful press. It is then carefully
treated with a file until a perfectly smooth surface is obtained. After
a white-gold plate of the required thickness has been produced in
the same manner, the surfaces of the two plates to be united are
coated with borax and then pressed together by machine, which
causes the harder metal to be squeezed slightly into the surface of
the other, furnishing a more solid and compact mass. The metals,
now partially united, are firmly fastened together by means of strong
iron wire and a little more borax solution is put on the edges. Then
heat to the temperature necessary for a complete adhesion, but the
heat must not be so great as to cause an alloyage by fusing. The
whole is finally rolled out into the required thickness.
To Fuse Gold Dust.—Use such a crucible as is generally used for
melting brass; heat very hot; then add the gold dust mixed with
powdered borax; after some time a scum or slag will be on top,
which may be thickened by the addition of a little lime or bone ash.
If the dust contains any of the more oxidizable metals, add a little
niter, and skim off the slag or scum very carefully; when melted,
grasp the crucible with strong iron tongs, and pour off immediately
into molds, slightly greased. The slag and crucibles may be
afterwards pulverized, and the auriferous matter recovered from the
mass through cupellation by means of lead.
GOLD ALLOYS: See Alloys.
GOLD, EXTRACTION OF, BY AMALGAMATION: See Amalgams.
GOLD LETTERS ON GLASS, CEMENTS FOR AFFIXING: See Adhesives, under Sign-Letter
Cements.
GOLD, REDUCTION OF OLD PHOTOGRAPHIC: See Photography.
GOLD FOIL SUBSTITUTES AND GOLD LEAF: See Metal Foil.
GOLD-LEAF ALLOYS: See Alloys.
GOLD LEAF AND ITS APPLICATION: See Paints.
GOLD PLATING: See Plating.
GOLD, RECOVERY OF WASTE: See Jewelers’ Formulas.
GOLD RENOVATOR: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods.
GOLD, SEPARATION OF PLATINUM FROM: See Platinum.
GOLD SOLDERS: See Solders.
GOLD TESTING: See Jewelers’ Formulas.
GOLD VARNISH: See Varnishes.
GOLDWASSER: See Wines and Liquors.
GONG METAL: See Alloys.

GRAIN.
Formalin Treatment Of Seed Grain For Smut.—Smut is a
parasitic fungus, and springs from a spore (which corresponds to a
seed in higher plants). This germinates when the grain is seeded
and, penetrating the little grain plant when but a few days old,
grows up within the grain stem. After entering the stem there is no
evidence of its presence until the grain begins to head. At this time
the smut plant robs the developing kernels of their nourishment and
ripens a mass of smut spores.
These spores usually ripen before the grain, and are blown about
the field, many spores becoming lodged on the ripening grain
kernels. The wholesale agent of infection is the threshing machine.
For this reason the safest plan is to treat all seed wheat and oats
each year.
Secure a 40 per cent solution of formalin (the commercial name
for formaldehyde gas held in a water solution). About 1 ounce is
required for every 5 bushels of grain to be treated. {385}
Clean off a space on the barn floor or sweep a clean space on the
hard level ground and lay a good-sized canvas down, on which to
spread out the wheat. See that the place where the grain is to be
treated is swept clean and thoroughly sprinkled with the formalin
solution before placing the seed grain there.
Prepare the formalin solution immediately before use, as it is
volatile, and if kept may disappear by evaporation.
Use 4 ounces of formalin for 10 gallons of water. This is sufficient
for 600 pounds of grain. Put the solution in a barrel or tub,
thoroughly mixing.
The solution can be applied with the garden sprinkler. Care must
be taken to moisten the grain thoroughly. Sprinkle, stir the grain up
thoroughly and sprinkle again, until every kernel is wet.
After sprinkling, place the grain in a conical pile and cover with
horse-blankets, gunny sacks, etc. The smut that does the damage
lies just under the glume of the oats or on the basal hairs of the
wheat. Covering the treated grain holds the gas from the formalin
within the pile, where it comes in contact with the kernels, killing
such smut spores as may have survived the previous treatment.
After the grain has remained in a covered pile 2 to 4 hours, spread it
out again where the wind can blow over it, to air and dry.
As soon as the grain can be taken in the hand without the kernels
sticking together, it can be sown in the field. The grain may be
treated in the forenoon and seeded in the afternoon.
Since this treatment swells the kernels it hastens germination and
should be done in the spring just before seeding time.
While the copper sulphate or bluestone treatment is valuable in
killing smut, the formalin treatment can be given in less time, is
applied so easily and is so effectual that it is recommended as a sure
and ready means of killing smut in wheat and oats.
GRAINING CRAYONS: See Crayons.
GRAINING COLORS: See Pigments.
GRAINING WITH PAINT: See Paint.
GRAINING, PALISANDER: See Palisander.
GRAPE JUICE, PRESERVATION OF: See Wines and Liquors.
GRAPHITE AS A LUBRICANT: See Lubricants.

GRAVEL WALKS.
For cleaning gravel walks any of the following may be used: I.—
Gas-tar liquor.
II.—Rock salt (cattle salt).
III.—Hydrochloric acid.
IV.—Sulphuric acid.
V.—Fresh limewater. The gas-tar liquor must be poured out a few
times in succession, and must not touch the tree roots and borders
of the paths. This medium is cheap. Cattle salt must likewise be
thrown out repeatedly. The use of hydrochloric and sulphuric acids is
somewhat expensive. Mix 60 parts of water with 10 parts of
unslaked lime and 1 part of sulphuric acid in a kettle, and sprinkle
the hot or cold mixture on the walks by means of a watering pot. If
limewater is used alone it must be fresh—1 part of unslaked lime in
10 parts of water.

GRAVERS:
 To Prepare Gravers For Bright-Cutting.—Set the gravers after
the sharpening on the oilstone on high-grade emery (tripoli) paper.
Next, hone them further on the rouge leather, but without tearing
threads from it. In this manner the silver and aluminum engravers
grind their gravers. A subsequent whetting of the graver on the
touchstone is not advisable, since it is too easily injured thereby. A
graver prepared as described gives excellent bright engraving and
never fails.
In all bright-cutting the graver must be highly polished; but when
bright-cutting aluminum a lubricant like coal-oil or vaseline is
generally employed with the polished tool; a mixture of vaseline and
benzine is also used for this purpose. Another formula which may be
recommended for bright-cutting aluminum is composed of the
following ingredients: Mix 4 parts of oil of turpentine and 1 part of
rum with 1 ounce of stearine. Immerse the graver in any of the
mixtures before making the bright-cut.
GREASES: See Lubricants.
GREASE ERADICATORS: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods. {386}

GREASE PAINTS: See Cosmetics.

GREEN, TO DISTINGUISH BLUE FROM, AT NIGHT: See Blue.
GREEN GILDING: See Plating.
GRENADES: See Fire Extinguishers.
GRINDING: See Tool Setting.
GRINDER DISK CEMENT, SUBSTITUTE FOR: See Adhesives.

GRINDSTONES:
To Mend Grindstones.—The mending of defective places in
grindstones is best done with a mass consisting of earth-wax (so-
called stone-pitch), 5 parts, by weight; tar, 1 part; and powdered
sandstone or cement, 3 parts, which is heated to the boiling point
and well stirred together. Before pouring in the mass the places to
be mended must be heated by laying red-hot pieces of iron on them.
The substance is, in a tough state, poured into the hollows of the
stone, and the pouring must be continued, when it commences to
solidify, until even with the surface.
Treatment Of The Grindstone.—The stone should not be left
with the lower part in the water. This will render it brittle at this
spot, causing it to wear off more quickly and thus lose its circularity.
It is best to moisten the stone only when in use, drop by drop from
a vessel fixed above it and to keep it quite dry otherwise. If the
stone is no longer round, it should be made so again by turning by
means of a piece of gas pipe or careful trimming, otherwise it will
commence to jump, thus becoming useless. It is important to clean
all tools and articles before grinding, carefully removing all grease,
fat, etc., as the pores of the stone become clogged with these
impurities, which destroy its grain and diminish its strength. Should
one side of the grindstone be lighter, this irregularity can be
equalized by affixing pieces of lead, so as to obtain a uniform motion
of the stone. It is essential that the stone should be firm on the axis
and not move to and fro in the bearings.
Grindstone Oil.—Complaints are often heard that grindstones
are occasionally harder on one side than the other, the softer parts
wearing away in hollows, which render grinding difficult, and soon
make the stone useless. This defect can be remedied completely by
means of boiled linseed oil. When the stone is thoroughly dry, the
soft side is turned uppermost, and brushed over with boiled oil,
which sinks into the stone, until the latter is saturated. The operation
takes about 3 to 4 hours in summer. As soon as the oil has dried, the
stone may be damped, and used without any further delay. Unlike
other similar remedies, this one does not prevent the stone from
biting properly in the oiled parts, and the life of the stone is
considerably lengthened, since it does not have to be dressed so
often.
GROUNDS FOR GRAINING COLORS: See Pigments.

GUMS:
(See also Adhesives, under Mucilages.)
Gums, Their Solubility In Alcohol.—The following table shows
the great range of solubility of the various gums, and of various
specimens of the same gum, in 60 per cent alcohol:
Acajon 6.94 to 42.92
Aden 0.60 to 26.90
Egyptian 46.34
Yellow Amrad 26.90 to 32.16
White Amrad 0.54 to 1.50
Kordofan 1.40 to 6.06
Australian 10.67 to 20.85
Bombay 22.06 to 46.14
Cape 1.67 to 1.88
Embavi 25.92
Gedda 1.24 to 1.30
Ghatti 31.60 to 70.32
Gheziereh 1.50 to 12.16
Halebi 3.70 to 22.60
La Plata 9.65
Mogadore 27.66
East Indian 3.24 to 74.84
Persian 1.74 to 17.34
Senegal 0.56 to 14.30
Substitute For Gum Arabic.—Dissolve 250 parts of glue in
1,000 parts of boiling water and heat this glue solution on the water
bath with a mixture of about 10 parts of barium peroxide of 75 per
cent BaO2 and 5 parts of sulphuric acid (66°) mixed with 115 parts
of water, for about 24 hours. After the time has elapsed, pour off
from the barium sulphate, whereby a little sulphurous acid results
owing to reduction of the sulphuric acid, which has a bleaching
action and makes the glue somewhat paler. If this solution is mixed,
with stirring, and dried upon glass plates in the drying-room, a
product which can hardly be {387} distinguished from gum arabic is
obtained. An envelope sealed with this mucilage cannot be opened
by moistening the envelope. The traces of free acid which it contains
prevent the invasion of bacteria, hence all putrefaction.
The adhesive power of the artificial gum is so enormous that the
use of cork stoppers is quite excluded, since they crumble off every
time the bottle is opened, so that finally a perfect wreath around the
inner neck of the bottle is formed. Only metallic or porcelain
stoppers should be used.
GUM ARABIC, INCREASING ADHESION OF: See Adhesives, under Mucilages.
GUM BICHROMATE PROCESS: See Photography.
GUM DROPS: See Confectionery.
GUM-LAC: See Oil.
GUMS USED IN MAKING VARNISH: See Varnishes.
GUN BARRELS, TO BLUE: See Steel.
GUN BRONZE: See Alloys, under Phosphor Bronze.
GUN COTTON: See Explosives.
GUN LUBRICANTS: See Lubricants.
GUNPOWDER: See Explosives.

GUNPOWDER STAINS.
A stain produced by the embedding of grains of gunpowder in the
skin is practically the same thing as a tattoo mark. The charcoal of
the gunpowder remains unaffected by the fluids of the tissues, and
no way is known of bringing it into solution there. The only method
of obliterating such marks is to take away with them the skin in
which they are embedded. This has been accomplished by the
application of an electric current, and by the use of caustics. When
the destruction of the true skin has been accomplished, it becomes a
foreign body, and if the destruction has extended to a sufficient
depth, the other foreign body, the coloring matter which has been
tattooed in, may be expected to be cast off with it.
Recently pepsin and papain have been proposed as applications to
remove the cuticle. A glycerole of either is tattooed into the skin
over the disfigured part; and it is said that the operation has proved
successful.
It is scarcely necessary to say that suppuration is likely to follow
such treatment, and that there is risk of scarring. In view of this it
becomes apparent that any such operation should be undertaken
only by a surgeon skilled in dermatological practice. An amateur
might not only cause the patient suffering without success in
removal, but add another disfigurement to the tattooing.
Carbolic acid has been applied to small portions of the affected
area at a time, with the result that the powder and skin were
removed simultaneously and, according to the physician reporting
the case, with little discomfort to the patient.
Rubbing the affected part with moistened ammonium chloride
once or twice a day has been reported as a slow but sure cure.

GUTTA-PERCHA.
Gutta-Percha Substitute.—I.—A decoction of birch bark is first
prepared, the external bark by preference, being evaporated. The
thick, black residue hardens on exposure to the air, and is said to
possess the properties of gutta-percha without developing any
cracks. It can be mixed with 50 per cent of India rubber or gutta-
percha. The compound is said to be cheap, and a good non-
conductor of electricity. Whether it possesses all the good qualities
of gutta-percha is not known.
II.—A new method of making gutta-percha consists of caoutchouc
and a rosin soap, the latter compounded of 100 parts of rosin, 100
parts of Carnauba wax, and 40 parts of gas-tar, melted together and
passed through a sieve. They are heated to about 355° to 340° F.,
and slowly saponified by stirring with 75 parts of limewater of
specific gravity 1.06. The product is next put into a kneading
machine along with an equal quantity of caoutchouc cuttings, and
worked in this machine at a temperature of 195° F. or over. When
sufficiently kneaded, the mass can be rolled to render it more
uniform.
GUTTER CEMENT: See Cement and Putty.

GYPSUM:
See also Plaster.
Method Of Hardening Gypsum And Rendering It Weather-
Proof.—Gypsum possesses only a moderate degree of strength
even after complete hardening, {388} and pieces are very liable to be
broken off. Various methods have been tried, with a view to
removing this defect and increasing the hardness of gypsum. Of
these methods, that of Wachsmuth, for hardening articles made of
gypsum and rendering them weather-proof, deserves special notice.
All methods of hardening articles made of gypsum have this in
common: the gypsum is first deprived of its moisture, and then
immersed in a solution of certain salts, such as alum, green vitriol,
etc. Articles treated by the methods hitherto in vogue certainly
acquire considerable hardness, but are no more capable of
resistance to the effects of water than crude gypsum. The object of
Wachsmuth’s process is not merely to harden the gypsum, but to
transform it on the surface into insoluble combinations. The process
is as follows: The article is first put into the required shape by
mechanical means, and then deprived of its moisture by heating to
212° to 302° F. It is then plunged into a heated solution of barium
hydrate, in which it is allowed to remain for a longer or shorter time,
according to its strength. When this part of the process is complete,
the article is smoothed by grinding, etc., and then placed in a
solution of about 10 per cent of oxalic acid in water. In a few hours it
is taken out, dried, and polished. It then possesses a hardness
surpassing that of marble, and is impervious to the action of water.
Nor does the polish sustain any injury from contact with water,
whereas gypsum articles hardened by the usual methods lose their
polish after a few minutes’ immersion in water. Articles treated by
the method described have the natural color of gypsum, but it is
possible to add a color to the gypsum during the hardening process.
This is done by plunging the gypsum, after it has been deprived of
its moisture, and before the treatment with the barium solution, into
a solution of a colored metallic sulphate, such as iron, copper, or
chrome sulphate, or into a solution of some coloring matter.
Pigments soluble in the barium or oxalic-acid solutions may also be
added to the latter.
Gypsum may be hardened and rendered insoluble by ammonium
borate as follows: Dissolve boric acid in hot water and add sufficient
ammonia water to the solution that the borate at first separated is
redissolved. The gypsum to be cast is stirred in with this liquid, and
the mass treated in the ordinary way. Articles already cast are simply
washed with the liquid, which is quickly absorbed. The articles
withstand the weather as well as though they were of stone.
GYPSUM FLOWERS: See Flowers.
GYPSUM, PAINT FOR: See Paint.

HAIR FOR MOUNTING.

The microscopist or amateur, who shaves himself, need never
resort to the trouble of embedding and cutting hairs in the
microtome in order to secure very thin sections of the hair of the
face. If he will first shave himself closely “with the hair,” as the
barbers say (i. e., in the direction of the natural growth of the hair),
and afterwards lightly “against the hair” (in the opposite direction to
above), he will find in the “scrapings” a multitude of exceedingly thin
sections. The technique is very simple. The lather and “scrapings”
are put into a saucer or large watch-glass and carefully washed with
clean water. This breaks down and dissolves the lather, leaving the
hair sections lying on the bottom of the glass. The after-treatment is
that usually employed in mounting similar objects.

HAIR PREPARATIONS
Dandruff Cures.
The treatment of that condition of the scalp which is productive of
dandruff properly falls to the physician, but unfortunately the subject
has not been much studied. One cure is said to be a sulphur lotion
made by placing a little sublimed sulphur in water, shaking well, then
allowing to settle, and washing the head every morning with the
clear liquid.
Sulphur is said to be insoluble in water; yet a sulphur water made
as above indicated has long been in use as a hair wash. A little
glycerine improves the preparation, preventing the hair from
becoming harsh by repeated washings.
The exfoliated particles of skin or “scales” should be removed only
when entirely detached from the cuticle. They result from an
irritation which is increased by forcible removal, and hence
endeavors to clean the hair from them by combing or brushing it in
such a way as to scrape the scalp are liable to be worse than
useless. It follows that gentle handling of the hair is important when
dandruff is present. {389}
 I.— Chloral hydrate 2 ounces
Resorcin 1 ounce
Tannin 1 ounce
Alcohol 8 ounces
Glycerine 4 ounces
Rose water to make 4 pints
II.— White wax 3 1/2 drachms
Liquid petrolatum 2 1/2 ounces
Rose water 1 ounce
Borax 15 grains
Precipitated sulphur 3 1/2 drachms
Pine-Tar Dandruff Shampoo.—
Pine tar 4 parts
Linseed oil 40 parts
Heat these to 140° F.; make solution of potassa, U. S. P., 10 parts,
and water, 45 parts; add alcohol, 5 parts, and gradually add to the
heated oils, stirring constantly. Continue the heat until saponified
thoroughly; and make up with water to 128 parts. When almost
cool, add ol. lavender, ol. orange, and ol. bergamot, of each 2 parts.
Hair-Curling Liquids.
It is impossible to render straight hair curly without the aid of the
iron or paper and other curlers. But it is possible, on the other hand,
to make artificial curls more durable and proof against outside
influences, such as especially dampness of the air. Below are
trustworthy recipes:
I II
Water 70 80
Spirit of wine 30 20
Borax 2 —
Tincture of benzoin — 3
Perfume ad. lib. ad. lib.
Hair Dressings And Washes:
Dressings for the Hair.—
I.— Oil of wintergreen. 20 drops
Oil of almond, essential 35 drops
Oil of rose, ethereal 1 drop
Oil of violets 30 drops
Tincture of cantharides 50 drops
Almond oil 2,000 drops
Mix.
Hair Embrocation.—
II.— Almond oil, sweet 280 parts
Spirit of sal ammoniac 280 parts
Spirit of rosemary 840 parts
Honey water 840 parts
Mix. Rub the scalp with it every morning by means of a sponge.
Hair Restorer.—
III.— Tincture of cantharides 7 parts
Gall tincture 7 parts
Musk essence 1 part
Carmine 0.5 part
Rectified spirit of wine 28 parts
Rose water 140 parts
To be used at night.
Rosemary Water.—
IV.— Rosemary oil 1 1/2 parts
Rectified spirit of wine 7 parts
Magnesia 7 parts
Distilled water 1,000 parts
Mix the oil with the spirit of wine and rub up with the magnesia in
a mortar; gradually add the water and finally filter.
 Foamy Scalp Wash.—Mix 2 parts of soap spirit, 1 part of borax-
glycerine (1+2), 6 parts of barium, and 7 parts of orange-flower
water.
Lanolin Hair Wash.—Extract 4 parts quillaia bark with 36 parts
water for several days, mix the percolate with 4 parts alcohol, and
filter after having settled. Agitate 40 parts of the filtrate at a
temperature at which wool grease becomes liquid, with 12 parts
anhydrous lanolin, and fill up with water to which 15 per cent spirit
of wine has been added, to 300 parts. Admixture, such as cinchona
extract, Peru balsam, quinine, tincture of cantharides, bay-oil,
ammonium carbonate, menthol, etc., may be made. The result is a
yellowish-white, milky liquid, with a cream-like fat layer floating on
the top, which is finely distributed by agitating.
Birch Water.—Birch water, which has many cosmetic applications,
especially as a hair wash or an ingredient in hair washes, may be
prepared as follows:
Alcohol, 96 per cent 3,500 parts
Water 700 parts
Potash soap 200 parts
Glycerine 150 parts
Oil of birch buds 50 parts
Essence of spring flowers 100 parts
Chlorophyll, q. s. to color.
Mix the water with 700 parts of the alcohol, and in the mixture
dissolve the soap. Add the essence of spring flowers and birch oil to
the remainder of the alcohol, mix well, and to the mixture add, little
by little, and with constant agitation, the soap mixture. Finally {390}
add the glycerine, mix thoroughly, and set aside for 8 days, filter and
color the filtrate with chlorophyll, to which add a little tincture of
saffron. To use, add an equal volume of water to produce a lather.
Petroleum Hair Washes.—I.—Deodorized pale petroleum, 10 parts;
citronella oil, 10 parts; castor oil, 5 parts; spirit of wine, 90 per cent,
50 parts; water, 75 parts.
II.—Quinine sulphate, 10 parts; acetic acid, 4 parts; tincture of
cantharides, 30 parts; tincture of quinine, 3 parts; spirit of rosemary,
60 parts; balm water, 90 parts; barium, 120 parts; spirit of wine, 150
parts; water, 1,000 parts.
III.—Very pure petroleum, 1 part; almond oil, 2 parts.
Brilliantine.—I.—Olive oil, 4 parts; glycerine, 3 parts; alcohol, 3
parts; scent as desired. Shake before use.
II.—Castor oil, 1 part; alcohol, 2 parts; saffron to dye yellow.
Scent as desired.
III.—Lard, 7 parts; spermaceti, 7 parts; almond oil, 7 parts; white
wax, 1 part.
A Cheap Hair Oil.—I.—Sesame oil or sunflower oil, 1,000 parts;
lavender oil, 15 parts; bergamot oil, 10 parts; and geranium oil, 5
parts.
II.—Sesame oil or sunflower oil, 1,000 parts; lavender oil, 12
parts; lemon oil, 20 parts; rosemary oil, 5 parts; and geranium oil, 2
parts.
Hair Dyes.
There is no hair dye which produces a durable coloration; the
color becomes gradually weaker in the course of time. Here are
some typical formulas in which a mordant is employed:
I.—
Nitrate of silver 1/
ounce
2
Distilled water 3 ounces
Mordant:
Sulphuret of potassium 1/
ounce
2
Distilled water 3 ounces
II.—
 (a ) Nitrate of silver (crystal) 1 1/2 ounces
Distilled water 12 ounces
Ammonia water sufficient to make a clear
solution.
Dissolve the nitrate of silver in the water and add the
ammonia water until the precipitate is redissolved.
(b ) Pyrogallic acid 2 drachms
Gallic acid 2 drachms
Cologne water 2 ounces
Distilled water 4 ounces
III.—
Nitrate of silver 20 grains
Sulphate of copper 2 grains
Ammonia, quantity sufficient.
Dissolve the salts in 1/2 ounce of water and add ammonia until the
precipitate which is formed is redissolved, Then make up to 1 ounce
with water. Apply to the hair with a brush. This solution slowly gives
a brown shade. For darker shades, apply a second solution,
composed of:
IV.— Yellow sulphide
2 drachms
ammonium
Solution of ammonia 1 drachm
Distilled water 1 ounce
Black Hair Dye without Silver.—
V.— Pyrogallic acid 3.5 parts
Citric acid 0.3 parts
Boro-glycerine 11 parts
Water 100 parts
If the dye does not impart the desired intensity of color, the
amount of pyrogallic acid may be increased. The wash is applied
evenings, followed in the morning by a weak ammoniacal wash.
One Bottle Preparation.—
 VI.— Nitrate of copper 360 grains
Nitrate of silver 7 ounces
Distilled water 60 ounces
Water of ammonia, a sufficiency.
Dissolve the salts in the water and add the water of ammonia
carefully until the precipitate is all redissolved. This solution, properly
applied, is said to produce a very black color; a lighter shade is
secured by diluting the solution. Copper sulphate may be used
instead of the nitrate.
Brown Hair Dyes.—A large excess of ammonia tends to produce a
brownish dye. Various shades of brown may be produced by
increasing the amount of water in the silver solution. It should be
remembered that the hair must, previously to treatment, be washed
with warm water containing sodium carbonate, well rinsed with clear
water, and dried.
I.— Silver nitrate 480 grains
Copper nitrate 90 grains
8
Distilled water
fluidounces
Ammonia water, sufficient.
Dissolve the two salts in the distilled water and add the ammonia
water until the liquid becomes a clear fluid.
In using apply to the hair carefully {391} with a tooth-brush, after
thoroughly cleansing the hair, and expose the latter to the rays of
the sun.
II.— Silver nitrate 30 parts
Copper sulphate, crystals 20 parts
Citric acid 20 parts
Distilled water 950 parts
Ammonia water, quantity sufficient to
dissolve the precipitate first formed.
 Various shades of brown may be produced by properly diluting the
solution before it be applied.
Bismuth subnitrate 200 grains
2
Water
fluidounces
Nitric acid, sufficient to dissolve, or
420 grains
about
Use heat to effect solution. Also:
Tartaric acid 150 grains
Sodium bicarbonate 168 grains
32
Water
fluidounces
When effervescence of the latter has ceased, mix the cold liquids
by pouring the latter into the former with constant stirring. Allow the
precipitate to subside; transfer it to a filter or strainer, and wash with
water until free from the sodium nitrate formed.
Chestnut Hair Dye.—
Bismuth nitrate 230 grains
Tartaric acid 75 grains
Water 100 minims
Dissolve the acid in the water, and to the solution add the bismuth
nitrate and stir until dissolved. Pour the resulting solution into 1 pint
of water and collect the magma on a filter. Remove all traces of acid
from the magma by repeated washings with water; then dissolve it
in:
Ammonia water 2 fluidrachms
And add:
Glycerine 20 minims
Sodium hyposulphite 75 grains
Water, enough to make 4 fluidounces.

Hair Restorers And Tonics:

 Falling Of The Hair.—Afterthe scalp has been thoroughly cleansed
by the shampoo, the following formula is to be used:
Salicylic acid 1 part
Precipitate of sulphur 2 1/2 parts
Rose water 25 parts
The patient is directed to part the hair, and then to rub in a small
portion of the ointment along the part, working it well into the scalp.
Then another part is made parallel to the first, and more ointment
rubbed in. Thus a series of first, longitudinal, and then transverse
parts are made, until the whole scalp has been well anointed. Done
in this way, it is not necessary to smear up the whole shaft of the
hair, but only to reach the hair roots and the sebaceous glands,
where the trouble is located. This process is thoroughly performed
for six successive nights, and the seventh night another shampoo is
taken. The eighth night the inunctions are commenced again, and
this is continued for six weeks. In almost every case the production
of dandruff is checked completely after six weeks’ treatment, and
the hair, which may have been falling out rapidly before, begins to
take firmer root. To be sure, many hairs which are on the point of
falling when treatment is begun will fall anyway, and it may even
seem for a time as if the treatment were increasing the hair-fall, on
account of the mechanical dislodgment of such hairs, but this need
never alarm one.
After six weeks of such treatment the shampoo may be taken less
frequently.
Next to dandruff, perhaps, the most common cause of early loss
of hair is heredity. In some families all of the male members, or all
who resemble one particular ancestor, lose their hair early. Dark-
haired families and races, as a rule, become bald earlier than those
with light hair. At first thought it would seem as though nothing
could be done to prevent premature baldness when heredity is the
cause, but this is a mistake. Careful hygiene of the scalp will often
counterbalance hereditary predisposition for a number of years, and
even after the hair has actually begun to fall proper stimulation will,
to a certain extent, and for a limited time, often restore to the hair
its pristine thickness and strength. Any of the rubefacients may be
prescribed for this purpose for daily use, such as croton oil, 1 1/2 per
cent; tincture of cantharides, 15 per cent; oil of cinnamon, 40 per
cent; tincture of capsicum, 15 per cent; oil of mustard, 1 per cent;
or any one of a dozen others. Tincture of capsicum is one of the
best, and for a routine prescription the following has served well:
Resorcin 5 parts
Tincture capsicum 15 parts
Castor oil 10 parts
Alcohol 100 parts
Oil of roses, sufficient.
{392}
It is to be recommended that the stimulant be changed from time
to time, so as not to rely on any one to the exclusion of others.
Jaborandi, oxygen gas, quinine, and other agents have enjoyed a
great reputation as hair-producers for a time, and have then taken
their proper position as aids, but not specifics, in restoring the hair.
It is well known that after many fevers, especially those
accompanied by great depression, such as pneumonia, typhoid,
puerperal, or scarlet fever, the hair is liable to fall out. This is
brought about in a variety of ways: In scarlatina, the hair papilla
shares in the general desquamation; in typhoid and the other fevers
the baldness may be the result either of the excessive seborrhea,
which often accompanies these diseases, or may be caused by the
general lowering of nutrition of the body. Unless the hair-fall be
accompanied by considerable dandruff (in which case the above-
mentioned treatment should be vigorously employed), the ordinary
hygiene of the scalp will result in a restoration of the hair in most
cases, but the employment of moderate local stimulation, with the
use of good general tonics, will hasten this end. It seems unwise to
cut the hair of women short in these cases, because the baldness is
practically never complete, and a certain proportion of the hairs will
retain firm root. These may be augmented by a switch made of the
hair which has fallen out, until the new hair shall have grown long
enough to do up well. In this way all of that oftentimes most
annoying short-hair period is avoided.
For Falling Hair.—

I.— Hydrochloric acid 75 parts

Alcohol 2,250 parts
The lotion is to be applied to the scalp every evening at bedtime.
II.— Tincture of cinchona 1 part
Tincture of rosemary 1 part
Tincture of jaborandi 1 part
Castor oil 2 parts
Rum 10 parts
Mix.
Jaborandi Scalp Waters For Increasing The Growth Of Hair.—First
prepare a jaborandi tincture from jaborandi leaves, 200 parts; spirit,
95 per cent, 700 parts; and water, 300 parts. After digesting for a
week, squeeze out the leaves and filter the liquid. The hair wash is
now prepared as follows:
I.—Jaborandi tincture, 1,000 parts: spirit, 95 per cent, 700 parts;
water, 300 parts; glycerine, 150 parts; scent essence, 100 parts;
color with sugar color.
II.—Jaborandi tincture, 1,000 parts: spirit, 95 per cent, 1,500
parts; quinine tannate, 4 parts; Peru balsam, 20 parts; essence
heliotrope, 50 parts. Dissolve the quinine and the Peru balsam in the
spirit and then add the jaborandi tincture and the heliotrope
essence. Filter after a week. Rub into the scalp twice a week before
retiring.
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