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100% found this document useful (3 votes)
88 views79 pages

Turkey Eyewitness Travel Guides Suzanne Swan Instant Download

The document provides information about the 'Turkey Eyewitness Travel Guides' authored by Suzanne Swan, available for download in various formats on ebookgate.com. It includes details on the guide's content, which covers various aspects of Turkey such as bazaars, restaurants, history, and travel tips. The guide aims to enhance the travel experience with expert recommendations and practical advice for visitors to Turkey.

Uploaded by

kipwqzrxp320
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
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EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

TURKEY

BAZAARS • RESTAURANTS
BEACHES • MOSQUES
HISTORY • CARPETS
HOTELS • NATIONAL PARKS Y
&!
,?
&$ %1

SHOPS • MUSEUMS • RUINS


THE GUIDES THAT SHOW YOU WHAT
OTHERS ONLY TELL YOU
EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

TURKEY
EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

TURKEY
MAIN CONTRIBUTOR: SUZANNE SWAN
PRODUCED BY Struik New Holland Publishing (Pty) Ltd,
Cape Town, South Africa
MANAGING EDITORS Alfred LeMaitre, Laura Milton
MANAGING ART EDITOR Steven Felmore
EDITORS Amichai Kapilevich, Anna Tanneberger
EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Christie Meyer
DESIGNER Peter Bosman
MAP CO-ORDINATOR John Loubser
CARTOGRAPHER Carl Germishuys
PICTURE RESEARCHERS Sandra Adomeit, Karla Kik
DTP CHECK Damian Gibbs
PRODUCTION MANAGER Myrna Collins
MAIN CONTRIBUTOR
Suzanne Swan
OTHER CONTRIBUTORS
Rosie Ayliffe, Rose Baring, Barnaby Rogerson, Canan Sılay, Dominic Whiting
PHOTOGRAPHERS
Kate Clow, Terry Richardson, Anthony Souter, Dominic Whiting, Linda Whitwam,
Francesca Yorke
ILLUSTRATORS
CONTENTS
Richard Bonson, Stephen Conlin, Gary Cross, Bruno de Robillard, Richard Draper,
Steven Felmore, Paul Guest, Ian Lusted,
Maltings Partnership, Chris Orr & Associates, David Pulvermacher, Paul Weston, John HOW TO USE
Woodcock
THIS GUIDE 6
Reproduced by Colourscan, Singapore
Printed and bound in China by L.Rex Printing Company Limited
First American edition 1995 INTRODUCING
10 11 12 13 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 TURKEY
Published in the United States by DK Publishing,
375 Hudson Street, New York, NY 10014
Reprinted with revisions 2006, 2008, 2010 DISCOVERING TURKEY
Copyright 2003, 2010 © Dorling Kindersley Limited, London
A Penguin Company 10
ALL RIGHT RESERVED. WITHOUT LIMITING THE RIGHTS RESERVED UNDER COPYRIGHT
RESERVED ABOVE, NO PART OF THIS PUBLICATION MAY BE REPRODUCED, STORED IN
OR INTRODUCED INTO A RETRIEVAL SYSTEM, OR TRANSMITTED, IN ANY FORM, OR BY PUTTING TURKEY
ANY MEANS (ELECTRONIC, MECHANICAL, PHOTOCOPYING, RECORDING OR
OTHERWISE), WITHOUT THE PRIOR WRITTEN PERMISSION OF BOTH THE COPYRIGHT ON THE MAP 12
OWNER AND THE ABOVE PUBLISHER OF THIS BOOK.
PUBLISHED IN GREAT BRITAIN BY DORLING KINDERSLEY LIMITED.
A CATALOGING IN PUBLICATION RECORD IS AVAILABLE FROM THE LIBRARY A PORTRAIT OF
OF CONGRESS.
TURKEY 14
ISBN 978 0 75666 129 8
FLOORS ARE REFERRED TO THROUGHOUT IN ACCORDANCE WITH EUROPEAN
USAGE; I.E, “FIRST FLOOR” IS ONE FLIGHT UP.
Front cover image: Blue water along the coast, Lycian region.

            

     


   
   
    
  
     
     

     


     

The information in this


DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly.
Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date Commagene stone head on Mount
as possible at the time of going to press. Some details, however, Nemrut (Nemrut Daği)
such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging
arrangements and travel information are liable to change. The
publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising TURKEY THROUGH
from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party THE YEAR 34
websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in this
book will be a suitable source of travel information. We value the
views and suggestions of our readers very highly. Please write to: THE HISTORY OF
Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides,
Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL, Great Britain. TURKEY 40
Dramatic light accentuates the İshak Paşa Sarayı near Doğubeyazıt
TURKEY REGION
BY REGION
TURKEY
AT A GLANCE 148

THRACE AND THE SEA


OF MARMARA 150

THE AEGEAN 170


Emblems of Istanbul, the Haghia
MEDITERRANEAN Sophia and Blue Mosque

TURKEY 204
TRAVELLERS’
ANKARA AND WESTERN NEEDS
The village of Üçağız, on the ANATOLIA 236
Mediterranean coast
WHERE TO STAY 322
ISTANBUL WHERE TO EAT 346
AREA BY AREA
SHOPPING IN
ISTANBUL TURKEY 374
AT A GLANCE 62
ENTERTAINMENT IN
SERAGLİO POINT 64 TURKEY 380

SULTANAHMET 78 OUTDOOR
ACTIVITIES 384
THE BAZAAR QUARTER Vendor selling boza, a drink made
94 from lightly fermented grain

BEYOĞLU 106 THE BLACK SEA 260

FURTHER AFIELD 112 CAPPADOCIA AND


CENTRAL ANATOLIA 276
ISTANBUL
STREET FINDER 134 EASTERN ANATOLIA 300
Example of Turkish weaving with
geometric design

SURVIVAL GUIDE
PRACTICAL
INFORMATION 392

TRAVEL INFORMATION
400

GENERAL INDEX
412

PHRASE BOOK
432
Sumela Monastery (see p272)
6 H O W T O U S E T H I S G U I D E

HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE


T his guide helps you to get the
most from your stay in Turkey.
It provides expert recommen-
dations and detailed practical advice.
Introducing Turkey locates the coun-
seeing sections, giving information on
major sights, with photographs, maps
and illustrations. Suggestions for restau-
rants, hotels, entertainment and shop-
ping are found in Travellers’ Needs,
try geographically, and sets it in con- while the Survival Guide contains use-
text. Istanbul Area by Area and Turkey ful advice on everything from chang-
Region by Region are the main sight- ing money to travelling by bus.

ISTANBUL AREA BY AREA                   


All pages relating to Istanbul
  9
Turkey’s largest city has been have red thumb tabs.
divided into four sightseeing  !!"%%1/(()*(&(',(*1 !)%"+'(/()',(,!)-%"
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522 24 24.  Sultanahmet.  8am– )28)6)(*631(-**)6)28786))87 0)%:)=396 &!3!((!./((%#.,$!./* +0$!.  Topkapı Palace %/%*/.%! 3%0$,+!0.5(%'!*%*#%00+
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context, and providing detailed
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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp326–330 and pp352–356
showing a romantic view of Istanbul
information on what can be
seen today.
H O W T O U S E T H I S G U I D E 7
                   

   
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Introduction
1 TURKEY REGION BY
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the landscape, history and Apart from Istanbul, the rest
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veloped over the centuries interesting towns and sights
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and what attractions it to visit are numbered on
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has to offer visitors today. a Regional Map at the
beginning of each chapter.

                               Each area of Turkey can


   -ÉQTFLJ

±"/",,"-&
GETTING AROUND
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2This shows the main road


Regional Map
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SIGHTS AT A GLANCE 4FMFOEJ


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terraces, near Hierapolis
overview of the whole region.
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All interesting places to visit


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are numbered and there are


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also useful tips on getting to,
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and around, the region.


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Tours
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Motorway
A town map shows the
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locations of all the sights


' O KOVA Major road
 %  + Ú R FE Z I
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"&!##   1 & /* / Minor road
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%BUÎB

Temple of Trajan, Bergama (Pergamum)


+NIDOS
Main railway

Minor railway
Bodrum’s marina and Castle of St Peter
described in the text.
For additional map symbols see back flap

 # $ !   &  !        &  !      #          

  VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

/1+359:5,:.+8+958:9'254-:.++-+'4 9:8522/4-'254-:.+9:8++::5  35,000. from Rhodes.


)5'9:/:/9*/,,/);2::5+4</9'-+'83'8/9'9 5(9+8<+:.59+=.5='4::5 Dalaman, 120 km (75 miles)
(+5(9+8<+*"53+5,:.+ E of town, (0252) 792 52 91.
:.+7;'/4:,/9./4-</22'-+/:;9+*:5(+#.+
('89.'<+(++44/)+2?*54+  NE of town centre on Muğla
9:8+:).5,(+').45=2/4+*=/:..5:+29 road. iskele Meydanı (central
;6'4**+)/(+29'9/*+:./9
+>:+4*+*:5:.+3'/49:8++:;4:/2:.+ 9 /945:'4;4'::8'):/<+'8+' harbour), (0252) 412 10 35.
'83'8/9='9+>:+49/<+2?*'3'-+*(?'4

3All the important towns


Detailed information
#.+8+'8+'295'4;3(+85,  Thu. Yacht Race Week
+'8:.7;'1+/4  =./).*+9:85?+*359: .5:+29'4*6+49/549/4:.+ (Apr 2008, then every three years).
5,:.+52*:5=4#5*'?:.+8+(;/2:'4*-8+':2? '8+'(;:</9/:589/49+'8).
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statue of ,8+9.9;33+8685*;)+=/22
9:':+5,!.5*+9"F2+?3'4:.+'-4/,/)+4:

and other places to visit are Atatürk


  '99+3(2+*'3/-.:?,2++:.+8+/4
:568+6'8+,58./9)547;+9:5,!.5*+9':=./).
:/3+.+8+-'/4+*6599+99/545,:.+':E'+4/49;2'
The Castle, incorporating a nautical museum
4;3(+85,2'8-+.52/*'?
.'<+(++4952*

Environs

 '4*.'*'83'8/9'9:2+8+(;/2:
described individually. They Exploring Marmaris 9+8</)+9 354-9+<+8'2?').:
 Castle and Museum
Tel (0252) 412 14 59.  8am–noon
& 1–5:30pm Tue–Sun. 
#.+58/-/4'2)'9:2+='98+(;/2:
 Bazaar
Entrance from Kordon Caddesi and

&5;3'?,/4*';4/7;+
</22'-+9'8+25)':+*/4Içmeler
'(5;:13 3/2+9'85;4*
:.+('?,853'83'8/9
the street beside the tourist office.
#8'49658::5'4*,853

are listed in order, following +=62')+9)'4)536+:+=/:.


'83'8/9+>)2;9/<+9+::/4-/4
'9.+2:+8+*('?8/33+*=/:.
52+'4*+892/7;/*'3('8:8++9
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Marine=/2258-'4/@+2;>;8?
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'83'8/9,853:.+=':+8#.+8+
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the numbering on the Regional '4*6/4+,58+9:9223'058


'::8'):/549'8+25)':+*=/:./4
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'4*)'4(+8+').+*54,55:
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 #.+ +:9+2)'229/-454%
).'44+2/9A58:'83'8/9C Restored Greek houses in the Old
/9'3;9+;3.5;9/4-'93'22
)522+):/545,4';:/)'2/:+39
#.+8+'8+'295/49)8/6:/549
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'254-'(+').='21='?:.':
8;49:.+2+4-:.5,:.+:5=4
'83'8/9/9'9',+'4).58'-+ Quarter near the harbour
=/:.45;4*+8=':+8);88+4:9
9'4*('4195885)19'4*)'4
(+'6685').+*4/-.:'4**'? Old Quarter
Greek Revival Houses in
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is further detailed information Netsel Marina


Tel (0252) 412 27 08 and 412 14 39.
Fax (0252) 412 53 51.
www.netselmarina.com
/4359:=+':.+8)54*/:/549
Gino Marine
Tel (0252) 412 06 70 / 80.
Fax (0252) 412 53 51.
Tepe Mahallesi.
#.+ 2* ;'8:+8'85;4*:.+
'9:2+/9(?,'8:.+359:
).'83/4-6'8:5,'83'8/9
.5;9+9;4*+88+45<':/54

MARMARIS TOWN CENTRE


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on important buildings and #;81+?92'8-+9:'4*359:


2;>;8/5;93'8/4'.'9/:'22B
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     VISITORS’ CHECKLIST 9'3+7;'/4: 0 yards 300 Key to Symbols see back flap
'66+'2'9:./9
0&36.4.045&+45+/%5+7'-#/&.#3,+4+54%#45-' In Bodrum harbour. Tel (0252) '8/9
316 25 16.  9am–noon &
$')6/+/ $:5*'/+)*540(50*/,
2–7pm. Allow a minimum of 2–3
* 54(+7'508'343'13'4'/5'&5*'/#5+0/#-+5+'4 hours.  Mon (also Sat & Sun
0(+54(03.+&#$-'+/*#$+5#/54!*'/<-':.#/ for Glass Shipwreck Hall and
5*' #)/+(+%'/5%0/26'3'&*0&'4+/ $05* # Carian Princess Hall).  several
0&36.#/&*0&'4%#.'6/&'3550.#/36-' "#,#,)() -0)-)0+, exhibits charge an additional
Heraldic #/&5*',/+)*54-'(5(03#-5# ')-'%5'&(03 -"-+)*(-)-"*.&# entry fee.  
relief %'/563+'45*'%#45-'$'%#.'#13+40/+/  #/& www.bodrum-museum.com
carving 8#4&#.#)'&$:4*'--4(30.#3'/%*8#34*+1 #!  ! ! "
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4536%5+0/40(#/%+'/54*+183'%,4#/&5*'+3%#3)0'4*#7' Tower
French Tower

Italian Tower For all the top sights, a Visitors’


5th-century BC
$306)*55*'.64'6.+/5'3/#5+0/#-#%%-#+.

  
shipwreck
Checklist provides the practical
"2((,(
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information you will need to
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plan your visit.
(-.+2

Land-facing
battlements

Carian
Princess
Hall

Chapel and Eastern


 !%#
(#(-(.-#&&# (-++
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4The historic buildings are
Turkey’s Top Sights

dissected to reveal their interiors;


Roman Shipwreck #(-" -"(-.+2
  # 
,-& +',.**)+-,-")+#!#(&
important archaeological sites
Outer
entrance
-#'+,) -#'#23(-#( DIVING FOR TREASURE
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 "!&,,,"+,(#(!)-, -0%#5'&#%%+&'/5#--:$:410/)'
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have maps showing key sights
STAR FEATURES
 Amphora Exhibit  $!
5*'3'46-50(.03'5*#/ 
&+7'4#/&1#+/45#,+/)4%+'/5+(+%
3'4'#3%*$:'91'354#/&3'4503'34
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and facilities. The most inter-
 Glass Shipwreck
Hall
+-"(0+$+,(*)-,
0+.,-)-+(,*)+-)#&
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The Commander’s Tower
(03.45*'+//'3'/53#/%'50
5*'%#45-'#/&&'5#+-440.'
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53'#463'4$'#65+(6--:13'4'37'&+/
esting towns or city centres have
 Late Bronze-Age
Shipwrecks

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp332–335 and pp359–362
,,&&)0 )+.*+#!"-
,-)+!#(&2+,
!03-&!#3*+4503: Diver recovering amphorae from the
floor of the Mediterranean
5*'+3-#4510350(%#--
maps, with sights picked out
and described.
INTRODUCING
TURKEY

DISCOVERING TURKEY 1011


PUTTING TURKEY ON THE MAP 1213
A PORTRAIT OF TURKEY 1433
TURKEY THROUGH THE YEAR 3439
THE HISTORY OF TURKEY 4059
10 I N T R O D U C I N G T U R K E Y

DISCOVERING TURKEY
F rom prehistory to the
present, numerous ingen-
ious and civilized cultures
have emerged and declined
within Turkey’s present-day
and remarkable ruins –
Turkey is home to ten World
Heritage Sites. Turkey also
offers a range of invigorating
outdoor activities, particularly
borders, such as the pre- in the Black Sea and Eastern
Biblical Hittites, and the Anatolian areas, where visitors
Byzantine and Ottoman can walk, hike, kayak, sail,
empires. The country horse ride, ski and more.
16th-century
possesses rich layers of history, İznik tiles Beautiful, sandy beaches along
ancient palaces and museums, the Meditteranean and Aegean
impressive mosques and churches coasts offer relaxing surroundings.

AEGEAN

• Fantastic beaches
• Legendary Greek and
Roman cities
• Pamukkale hot springs

Beaches, yachts and fun in


the sun are a major draw for
visitors to this region.
Bodrum (see p194) was
Turkey’s first tourist resort
and the Castle of St Peter is
its most distinctive landmark.
Elegant domes and minarets of the Blue Mosque, Istanbul An incredible amount of
remains of Classical Greek
meates the labyrinthine and Roman civilizations are
ISTANBUL Grand Bazaar (see pp104–05). scattered across the region.
Thousands of booths sell a The Greco-Roman ruins at
• Historic Blue Mosque staggering array of wares. Ephesus (see pp182–3) are a
• Sizzling nightlife and café dramatic sight, and the city
society also played an important role
• The Grand Bazaar THRACE & SEA OF in the spread of Christianity.
MARMARA The terraced pools and
The name Constantinople, or springs at Pamukkale (see
Istanbul, stirs visions of • Byzantine capital Iznik p186) are one of the country’s
Ottoman sultans, harems and • Poignant World War 1 most popular natural attrac-
palaces. Topkapı Palace battleground Gallipoli tions. The unusually shaped
museum (see p68–71) built • Peaceful island retreat formations were created by
by the conquerer Mehmet II limestone-laden thermal
in the 14th century, offers an One of the most glorious springs.
intriguing insight into a part Byzantine capitals in the 6th
of the city’s rich history. century, İznik (see pp160–1)
The iconic Blue Mosque produced exquisite ceramic
(see p88–9), a dignified cont- tiles in the 16th century and
our on Istanbul’s skyline, is still retains its original layout.
one of Islam’s most revered The annual Gallipoli cere-
holy sites. mony on ANZAC Day in April
Modern Istanbul is an (see p34) commemorates the
eminently sophisticated city courage of World War I
which also has a bohemian soldiers on both sides and the
side. The Beyoğlu district Kabatepe Information Centre
(see p106–11) pulses with houses poignant memorabilia
night life in the jazz and rock (see p168).
clubs and mayhane or The cool and verdant
tavernas. Princes’ Islands (see p158)
Committed shoppers will have lovely beaches and offer Spectacular white travertine
love the energy that per- respite from Istanbul’s bustle. terraced pools at Pamukkale

A close-up of an İznik tile panel, showing the intricate floral motifs known as arabesques
D I S C O V E R I N G T U R K E Y 11

in Ottoman times. The


frescoes of Sumela Monastery
(see p272), although badly
damaged, are worth seeing.

CAPPADOCIA &
CENTRAL ANATOLIA

• Surreal volcanic formations


• Göreme Open-Air Museum
• Seat of Pontic Kings
Picturesque lagoon and beach at Ölü Deniz
The bizarre rock formations
(see p246). Of particular and ‘“fairy chimneys” (see
MEDITERRANEAN note are the pp280–81) of the Capp-
TURKEY Bronze Age adocia region offer
settlements of bewitching
• Ölü Deniz lagoon Çatalhöyük (see natural beauty.
• Legends of St Nicholas p254); however, Below ground,
• Timeless Antakya the best finds are early Christian churches
displayed in the with Byzantine frescoes
Sweeping sandy beaches, Museum of Anat- can be discovered at
warm sun, golf and leisurely olian Civilizations the Göreme Open-
cruising on gulet (wooden (see pp242–3). Air Museum (see
boats) are the notable attract- The Whirling pp 284–5).
ions of Mediterranean Turkey. Dervishes are cele- Secluded Amasya
The most dramatic stretch of brated in Konya’s Traditional Whirling (see pp298–9) has a
sand is at Ölü Deniz (see Mevlâna Museum Dervish long and prominent
pp212–3), while the comp- (see pp252–3). history. Settled first
elling backdrop of the Toros by the Hittites, the town
Mountains, cool streams and became the capital of the
forests and the 350 km BLACK SEA Roman Pontus Kings; their
(217 mile) Lycian Way (see graves are carved out of the
p216), a long-distance foot- • Exhilarating outdoor sports cliff faces, which tower over
path, offer an invigorating • Ottoman town Safranbolu the town.
alternative. • Sumela Monastery
St Nicholas was the 4th-
century Christian bishop of The Black Sea is Turkey’s EASTERN ANATOLIA
Myra (see p216), and Demre’s wettest and most temperate
church bears his name. region and it is ideal for raft- • Mystical site of Mt Nemrut
Antakya (see pp234–5), called ing and trekking or just enjoy- • Restored Roman mosaics
the “Turkish Riviera”, has ing simple village life. In • World’s oldest functioning
French colonial architecture Safranbolu’s (see pp 268 –9) monastery
and a beautiful coastline. market area, traditional trades
and crafts are still practised This region is relatively un-
by local artisans as they were developed and unspoiled.
ANKARA & WESTERN Little can rival the Greco-
ANATOLIA Persian cult site of Mount
Nemrut (see p306). Vistas of
• Steaming geothermal spas the enormous terraces and
• Bronze Age Çatalhöyük stone heads at sunrise or
• Home of the Whirling sunset are dramatic.
Dervishes The exquisite Roman
mosaics of Zeugma (Belkis)
The dignified air of Ankara, on display at the Gaziantep
(see pp240 –7), Turkey’s Archaeological Museum (see
capital city, adds to its shop- pp308–9) are one of Tur-
ping opportunities, cosmo- key’s most thrilling finds in
politan restaurants and lively 50 years. The Syrian Ortho-
nightlife. An hour’s drive dox monastery of Mor Gabriel
away is the opportunity to (see p307), near Mardin, is
picnic in national parks such the oldest surviving monas-
as Soguksu (see p246) or tery in the world, having
enjoy the hot springs at Stone heads of Zeus and the other practised devout monastic tra-
Kızılcahamam or Haymana gods at Mount Nemrut ditions for over 1,600 years.
12 I N T R O D U C I N G T U R K E Y

Putting Turkey on the Map


Lying between Europe, Asia and the Middle East,
Turkey is located midway between the equator
and the North Pole. It covers an area of 814,578 KEY
sq km (314,533 sq miles). A small area (3 per Airport
cent) called Thrace forms part of the European
Motorway
continent, while the larger section, Anatolia,
forms part of Asia. The city of Istanbul is situated Major road
at the meeting point of Europe and Asia and is Secondary road
divided by the Bosphorus, the strait linking the
Railway
Black Sea and the Sea of Marmara. Countries
bordering Turkey are Greece and Bulgaria on International boundary
the European side, and Georgia, Armenia, Iran,
Iraq, Syria and Nakhichevan
to the east and southeast.

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I N T R O D U C I N G T U R K E Y 15

A PORTRAIT OF TURKEY
he popular image many visitors have of Turkey is one of

T idyllic Mediterranean beaches lapped by an azure sea. Sun


and sand, however, barely hint at the riches this country has
to offer. A bridge between Asia and Europe, Turkey is one of the great
cradles of civilization – a proud country whose cultural and historic
treasures will delight and inspire even seasoned travellers.

Contrasts between old for the vast empty steppes of


and new add greatly to the the eastern provinces. Pictures
fascination that overwhelms can only hint at the enchant-
visitors to Turkey. Istanbul, ment that awaits travellers in
the metropolis of this fast- Cappadocia. Here, centuries
changing nation, displays all the of underground activity have
hustle and bustle of a great world resulted in entire cities carved
city, while only a few hours Tulips in bloom deep into the porous tuff,
away rural people congregate while aeons of erosion have
around communal water supplies carved the landscape into fantastic
and collect wood to light their fires. fairytale-like mushroom formations.
The superb scenery and landscape Many of Turkey’s national parks and
reflect a remarkable geographical wetland sanctuaries are a last refuge
diversity. Beguiling seascapes, soft for species that are almost extinct else-
beaches and brooding mountains where in Europe, and for botanists
along the Mediterranean coast yield there is an amazing display of flora.
to the tranquillity of Turkey’s Lake Add to this countless ancient ruins,
District, while the deep forests and and the friendliness and hospitality
cool yayla (plateaux) of the Black of the Turkish nation, and you are
Sea region leave visitors unprepared guaranteed an unforgettable holiday.

Looking out over the Bosphorus from Sultanahmet

Prayer on a holy Friday during Ramazan


16 I N T R O D U C I N G T U R K E Y

The Library at Ephesus (see pp182–3), one of the most famous Roman sites in Turkey

HISTORICAL FRAMEWORK tectural masterpieces, which can still


Anatolia has seen the rise and fall of be seen at places like Ephesus (see
sophisticated civilizations, including pp182–3), Aphrodisias (see pp188–9),
that of the great Assyrians, Hittites, and in Istanbul, where the former
Phrygians and Urartians. Over the cen- church of Haghia Sophia has stood for
turies, this land was populated almost more than 14 centuries (see pp82–5).
continuously. The Hellenistic period The Seljuk Turks added their superb
produced some of the finest sites. Near architectural legacy, as did the
Çanakkale, on the Aegean coast, lie Ottomans, whose empire at one point
the remains of ancient Troy (see p174), stretched from Hungary to Iraq. Many
and in the mountainous southwest are other peoples, among them Jews,
the ruined settlements of Lycia (see Russians, Armenians and Greeks, have
p215), whose inhabitants left behind played an important part in Turkey’s
an assortment of unusual rock tombs. complex history. The fruits of this diver-
In the early Christian era, sity can be seen in superb mosaics and
St Paul travelled through frescoes, colourful tilework,
Asia Minor, then part of the underground cities,
Roman empire, to preach interesting historic and
the Gospel. Between the biblical sights, city walls
3rd and 7th centuries, and fortresses.
Christianity was a central Turks are proud of the
force in the development of modern nation Atatürk (see
Anatolia. This was the p58) forged out of the ruined
period when the Byzantine Ottoman empire. “Ne Mutlu
empire attained the pinna- T ürküm Diyene” i s a
cle of its glory. The Romans common Turkish phrase that
and Byzantines endowed Ottoman tilework at the means “happy is the person
Turkey with glorious archi- Topkapı Palace, Istanbul who can say he is a Turk.”
A P O R T R A I T O F T U R K E Y 17

RELIGION
Most of Turkey’s population of
71 million people follow the Sunni
branch of Islam, but one quarter of
the population are Alevis, Mevlevis
(see p225) or other Muslim sects.
Because the Turkish Republic is
founded on secular principles, religion
does not seem to hold the significance
that it does in other Muslim countries.
The devout do attend prayer times in
the mosque five times daily as laid
down by the Koran, but some Turkish
Muslims do not go to mosque at all.
A department of religious affairs
exists and carries out the function of
exercising control over family morals A card game interrupted for a tray of simit
and to safeguard the principles of
Islam. Mosque and state are not sep- SOCIETY
arated by statute, and so the bound- The Turkish language is of Central Asian
aries between them can be origin but uses the Latin alphabet.
unclear at times. Invariably, It has a natural vowel harmony
Atatürk’s principles are that makes it sound melodic
invoked as sacred when and soft. Turkish terms such
religion appears to steer as divan and ottoman have
too close to politics. The entered the English vocabu-
issue of Islamic dress is lary, while Turkish borrows
emotionally charged and a words like tren and randevu
subject of debate. Byzantine mosaic, from English and French.
Haghia Sophia
Approximately 130,000 non- Turks have an uninhibited
Muslims, including Greek and body language that is as emphatic as
Armenian Orthodox, are found in speech. They are unrestrained about
larger cities, and members are enjoying themselves, but traditional
allowed to worship freely within segregation of the sexes means that
their own communities. groups of men sitting around smok-
ing, drinking endless cups of çay (tea)
and playing dominoes, cards or tavla
(backgammon) are a common sight. A
pronounced family ethos cements
the generations, and festivals unite
the extended family. It is all bound
together by hospitality, an age-old
Turkish tradition, in which food and
drink play a central role.
Children are regarded as national
treasures, but many families blame the
advent of television and the Internet
for eroding the discipline and respect
The Blue Mosque (see pp88–9) in Istanbul for elders that were once sacred.
18 I N T R O D U C I N G T U R K E Y

Turkey’s gradual transition Atatürk set Turkey on the road


to a modern, Western society to becoming a modern state.
received a major boost in His reforms, strictly enacted,
1952 when it became a steered Turkey towards
member of the North Atlantic becoming European rather
Treaty Organization (NATO). than Asian, and his status in the
This brought advances in eyes of the Turkish nation has
communications, transport and scarcely dimmed since his
its defence policy. New roads, death. His picture is everywhere
highways and projects to improve and his statue adorns almost
the tourism infrastructure Traditional juice every village square. Few
vendor
changed the face of the country. statesmen have matched his
Modernization is, more than ever, integrity and style, and the soldier-
the hallmark of Turkish society. turned-politician model still appeals
Today, remote villages can boast of strongly to Turks.
high-speed, fibre-optic telephone Democracy has proved much more
connections, but may lack adequate difficult to implement than Western
water or reliable electricity supplies. theoretical models. Turkey’s military
The Internet and mobile telephones leaders, who intervened in politics in
have become essential accessories, 1960, 1971 and 1980, keep a close
and new housing projects are quickly eye on political life. In 1997,
festooned with satellite TV dishes. democratically elected prime minister,
Necmettin Erbakan, was ousted from
MODERN TURKEY office for his overt religious leanings,
For most Turks, the modern version but few Turks challenge the idea of a
of their ancient country dates from secular safety net. In November 2002
the founding of the Turkish Republic an Islamic party scored a victory in
in 1923. Its architect was Mustafa national elections, sweeping aside a
Kemal – better known as Atatürk – a decade of coalition party alliances
decorated former army officer who w h o s e p o p u l i s t t e n d e n c i e s
became Turkey’s first President. overshadowed democratic reforms.

Soldiers mounting guard at the Atatürk Mausoleum (see p244), Ankara


A P O R T R A I T O F T U R K E Y 19

Turks consider themselves


Europeans, despite income
gaps and social inequalities.

POPULATION MOVEMENT
In the 1960s, many Turks left
for Germany to work under a
government scheme offering
remittances in foreign cur-
rency – an important source
of export income. Many settled
there, and 2.2 million Turks
now call Germany their home.
Children hard at work in school
There are large Turkish com-
In Ottoman times, the state provided munities in other EU states, too.
an all-encompassing social service to Within Turkey, the trend has been for
its citizens, who willingly complied rural people to leave the land and seek
with its ordered governance. Today, a more stable life in urban areas. Few
the role of the state is being redefined. plan to return, even if city life is not
Officials are elected and what they hoped for. Some of
democracy is the goal Turkey’s best-known films,
of society. Many such as Sürü (The
state-owned joint- Herd), and Eşkıya
stock companies (The Bandit), high-
and monopolies light the common themes
that put Turkey on of identity, lifestyle and
its feet are sched- poverty. Turkey’s in-
uled for privatiza- domitable spirit and
tion. Several are well vitality are best seen
prepared for global Folk dancers from the Black Sea
and appreciated in its
competition but others view change as proud people. Journeys invariably
eroding a comfortable status quo. result in friendships. If a Turk declares
Maintaining a centralized state has himself your arkadaş (friend), he will
placed a huge financial burden on be a steadfast soulmate long after
Turks. Interest on international loans your holiday memories have faded.
consumes a large chunk of
public money, while the
military budget exceeds
that of health, social ser-
vices and education. Since
2002, political and eco-
nomic reforms have trans-
formed Turkey. Inflation,
running at 100 per cent in
2001, is now in single dig-
its and the Turkish Lira
has shed its awkward
zeros (see p397). Many Fish sold on the quayside along Istanbul’s Golden Horn (see p99)
20 I N T R O D U C I N G T U R K E Y

Landscape and Geology


Mountain ranges are Turkey’s most distinctive
geographic feature, with the Taurus and Pontic
ranges enclosing the high Anatolian Plateau. The
mountains are geologically young, and the many
faulting and folding areas indicate that mountain
building is still active. In fact, 80 per cent of the
country lies in an extremely active tectonic zone,
and earthquakes are frequent. Turkey has eight
main drainage basins but the most important ones
are the Euphrates (Fırat) and the Tigris (Dicle).
About one quarter of Turkey is covered with forest,
with stands of pine, spruce and cedar, as well as
deciduous trees. About 13 per cent of this area
is productive; erosion, logging and fires have all Saklıkent Gorge is typical of the
depleted forested areas. Mediterranean coastal region,
where steep valleys and gorges
Ìzmit, east of bisect elongated mountain ridges.
Istanbul, was the
epicentre of the
1999 earthquake U LT
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L IA
on the Richter scale TO

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Collisions between two Adana and Antalya
continental plates result in crust support extensive food,
being pushed upwards to form crop and horticultural
mountain ranges. production.
A P O R T R A I T O F T U R K E Y 21

Lake Van lies in a


crater-like depression that
became landlocked when lava
flows from the adjacent
Pleistocene-era volcano blocked
the flow of water. Today, drain-
age from feeder streams fills the
lake and only evaporation
sustains a constant water level.
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km (1,440 sq miles) and a very
high level of sodium carbonate.

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SOUTHEAST ANATOLIAN PROJECT (GAP)


This showpiece project was conceived during the 1980s
to produce hydroelectric power by harnessing the flow
of the Tigris and Euphrates rivers. Plans involve the
building of 22 dams and 19 power plants spread over
more than 1.7 million
hectares (4.2 million acres)
Isolated Mediterranean bays of land. The project is
were, for centuries, havens for intended to help develop
pirates. The Taurus Mountains Turkey’s poor eastern
made sections of the coast provinces, but critics argue
inaccessible, allowing peoples that flooding 300,000
like the Lycians (1st and 2nd sq km (115,800 sq miles)
century BC) to resist Roman rule will submerge ancient
and retain their own language cultural treasures and
and culture. As harbours silted displace local people. The massive Atatürk Dam
up, such civilizations declined.
22 I N T R O D U C I N G T U R K E Y

Flora and Fauna of Turkey


Turkey offers much for the naturalist, with rich
marine ecosystems, abundant birdlife and elusive
larger mammals. The rugged eastern provinces
still harbour large mammals such as bear,
jackal, and wolf. The country is also
floristically rich, with more than 11,000 plant
species recorded. The tulip is perhaps
Poppies, the most famous of these. The great diversity
central
Anatolia
of plants stems from the variety of habitats –
from arid plains to mountains and temperate
woodland – but also from Turkey’s position as a
The Anatolian lynx can still
“biological watershed” at the crossroads of Europe and
be found in upland areas,
Asia. There are huge tracts of unspoiled countryside, although its habitat
some of which have been set aside as national parks. is under threat.

THE MEDITERRANEAN COAST


Large areas of the Mediterranean and Aegean
coast are dominated by evergreen scrub, with
Jerusalem sage, kermes oak, broom and sun
roses among the common species. More open
scrub areas contain orchids, bulbs
and annuals. Tucked under bushes
are hellebores and Comper’s orchid
with its distinctive trailing tassels.
Arum lilies exude a fetid odour to
entice pollinators. Late summer
brings the spires of sea squill and
sea daffodil. The carob tree sheds its
pods in autumn while colchicum Common
and sternbergias unfold. sternbergia

WETLANDS
Here, dragonflies hover over flowering rush,
waterlilies and irises, while water meadows
fill with buttercups, bellevalia, marsh
orchids and pale blue asyneumas. Despite
international recognition of their diversity,
Turkish wetlands are under threat from
dams, drainage, pollution and
climatic change. Surviving exam-
ples are Sultansazlığı near Niğde
(see p289), Kuşcenneti National
Park near Bursa (see p157), and
the Göksu Delta (see p229).

Marsh orchid

WOODLANDS
Coniferous forests harbour stands of peonies,
orchids, foxgloves, fritillaries and golden peas.
The western Taurus range has an endemic
subspecies of cedar of Lebanon, and in the
north are forests of Oriental beech and fir,
with rhododendron, ferns, lilies, primulas and
campanulas. In autumn cyclamen
and edible mushrooms appear.
There are giant cedar at Dokuz
Göl near Elmalı, endemic oak
species at Kasnak near Eğirdir
(see p254), and ancient mixed
woodland, now threatened by
a dam, in the Fırtına valley. Peony
A P O R T R A I T O F T U R K E Y 23

STEPPE
Despite their sparse appearance, the broad
expanses of the Anatolian Plateau support
many flowering plants. Highlights include
stately asphodelines, which reach 1.8 m (6 ft)
in height, purple gladioli, flax in yellow, pink
or blue, and the colourful parasite Phelypaea
coccinea. On the eastern steppe are found the
lovely white, purple or blue oncocyclus iris.
Göreme National Park in Cappadocia and
Nemrut Dağı National Park (see p306) are
good places to see this flora.
Deforestation and erosion have
greatly altered the steppe, and
intensive farming practices have
accelerated this process.

Iberian oncocyclus

MOUNTAINS
In spring, subalpine meadows are
carpeted with buttercups.
Above the treeline, snow-
drops, winter aconite and
crocus crowd together near
Snowdrop
the snowmelt. These are
followed by star-of-Bethlehem, grape
hyacinth, fritillaries, foxtail lilies, asphode-
lines and bright red tulips. Scree and rocky
slopes are dotted with colourful alpine
flowers like iris, rock jasmine and aubretia.
Important mountain reserves include
Kaçkar Mountains National Park near the
Black Sea coast, Aladağlar National Park,
Beyşehir Gölü National Park near Eğirdir
(see p254) and the ski centres at Uludağ
(see p157) and Erciyes (see p288).

BIRDS OF ANATOLIA
More than 440 species of bird have Alpine chough
been recorded in Turkey, which offers can be seen in the
a range of habitats from woodlands and mountains, where
mountains to wetlands and steppe. they nest on ledges,
The country’s position on the migratory nooks and crevices.
flyways makes its a paradise for bird- They store food in
watchers. Autumn offers the spectacle cracks, which they
of vast flocks of migrating storks and cover with stones.
raptors over the Bosphorus. In
winter, lakes and wetlands hold Adult golden eagles are
thousands of wintering wildfowl. resident, but the young
of northern Europe
migrate south in
Chukar partridge is winter to the
one of many game mountainous
birds in Turkey, areas of the
where hunting Mediterra-
is a popular nean.
pastime.

Serin live in
woodlands and vine-
yards. Local populations
are augmented by migra-
tory birds in autumn.
24 I N T R O D U C I N G T U R K E Y

Hans and Caravanserais


Dotted across Anatolia are many hans
(storage depots) and caravanserais
(hostelries) built in Seljuk and Ottoman
times to protect merchants travelling the #VSTB  #PMV
5SBC[PO


caravan routes that crossed Anatolia .BOJTB 




 
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*TQBSUB ,POZB %JZBSCBLJS


Carved detail along the Roman-Byzantine road system. "MFQQP   #BHIEBE
from the From the 13th century, the Seljuks built 

Sultanhanı more than 100 hans to encourage trade. $BJSP

It was under the Ottomans, though, that


hans and caravanserais became a part of the state-
sponsored social welfare system and played a key LOCATOR MAP
role in expanding Ottoman territory and influence. Major trade routes
Several of these facilities can be visited today, and
some have been turned into hotels or restaurants.

Portal of the
storage hall

A small mosque raised


on arches stands in the
centre of the courtyard.

Camel caravans laden with silks


and spices from China made their
way through Anatolia to the great
commercial centre of Bursa (see
pp162–7). Slaves from the Black
Sea hinterland were another
important trading commodity.

A thick curtain
wall surrounded
the caravanserai.

The central gate


provided the only
entry to the fortified
structure.

The central courtyard,


surrounded by arcades,
provided shelter from the hot
sun and contained apartments Corner
and a hamam (Turkish bath) turret for
to revive weary travellers. defence
A P O R T R A I T O F T U R K E Y 25

The stone bridge over


the Köprü River near
Antalya was built by
the Seljuks near the
site of a Roman bridge.
The structure has
been restored.

Barrel-vaulted
ceiling
A caravanserai at Mylasa, a bustling
commercial centre in western Anatolia, is
shown in this 19th-century oil painting by
the English artist, Richard Dadd.

The octagonal
lantern tower
let light into
the interior.

THE SULTANHANI
The Sultanhanı, near the central
Anatolian city of Aksaray (see
pp292–3), is one of the best-
preserved Seljuk caravanserais.
Built between 1226 and 1229 for
Sultan Alaeddin Keykubad (see p250),
the complex consisted of a courtyard
surrounded by various amenities – stables,
mosque, Turkish bath and accommodation –
for the use of travellers, and a covered hall in
which trade goods could be safely stored.
Five-aisled
storage
hall

The Cinci Hanı (see


p268) was an important
fixture of the busy trading
centre of Safranbolu, which
lay on the key Black Sea
caravan route.

The Kızlarağası Hanı in


ìzmir (see p178) is an
Ottoman han dating
from 1744. Hans had the
same amenities found at
a caravanserai, together
Accommodation
with storerooms, offices
for travellers was and rows of cell-like
provided in two workshops, all grouped
tiers of rooms. around a courtyard.
The restored Kızlarağası
Hanı houses a variety
of cafés, shops and craft
workshops.
26 I N T R O D U C I N G T U R K E Y

Customs and Traditions


Turkish customs have been passed down from
generation to generation and are integrated into
contemporary life. Climate, geography and
ethnic background play a significant role,
but many customs have their origins in Islam
and have changed little over the years. An
enduring faith is attached to the blue bead,
Mavi or mavi boncuk, an amulet that protects the
boncuk wearer from the evil eye. It may be seen
dangling wherever good luck is needed.
Religious and social mores dictate separate lives
for many men and women, so customs bring them
In Karagöz shadow puppet
together for celebrations such as weddings, births theatre, a cast of stock characters
and rites of passage. Family life is pivotal to Turkish enact satiric themes. The puppets
culture, and communities are strengthened by the are three-dimensional cut-outs
social and economic ties of the extended family. made from camel skin.

CIRCUMCISION
For the celebration of his Gold coins
sünnet, or circumcision attached to
ribbons
ritual, a boy is dressed in
the satin uniform of a
sergeant major, and his Offerings pinned to
parents throw as lavish a a pillow symbolize
celebration as they can the gifts the young
afford. Relatives and man will take into
friends proffer money as manhood.
gifts for the young man,
and the whole event is In line with Islamic tradition, Turkish
often photgraphed for boys are circumcised between the ages of
the family album. seven and 10. A lavish uniform is worn
for this special occasion.

VILLAGE WEDDINGS
Headscarves are worn
Celebrations such as weddings may by many rural women.
last for several days and involve a Village square
number of individual rituals. In the (meydan)
rural areas, families often approve
and sanction wedding partners. The
bride always has a çeyiz (trousseau)
comprising lovely, handcrafted
articles she and her mother have
made for the new home.

Making flat bread for the marriage


feast is the responsibility of the women
of the family. The tradition of making Wedding festivities in the picturesque village of Midyat,
katmer or gözleme (crepes) is being near the Syrian border, bring a large and appreciative
revived in some parts of Turkey. crowd out to watch dancers performing.
A P O R T R A I T O F T U R K E Y 27

HANDICRAFTS
Craft skills were handed down from
the Ottoman guild system, and Turkey
has many skilled craftspeople. One
example is oya, or needle lace, which
is noted for its intricate floral designs
crocheted in silk. These were originally
crafted for a bride’s trousseau. As
late as the 1920s, wives crocheted
them as part of their husband’s
headdress. Quilt-making, on the
other hand, was traditionally Copper and brass
passed down from the father. Weaving is a rural tradition and ware, worked by
done mainly by women. Designs hand, is an integral
of carpets and kilims (see pp358–9) part of the Turkish
are handed down from one gener- household.
ation to the next.

Woodworking skills
were handed down from the
Ottomans. Unique wooden
Local markets are the best Hand-printed textiles, known as walking sticks are made in
places to look for traditional yazma, are a proud and venerable Devrek, near the Black Sea.
crafts. Shown here are craft tradition in central Anatolian These wooden bowls were
handmade linens in Kalkan. towns such as Tokat. produced near Adana.

TRADITIONAL DRESS Decorative


Printed Full robe headdress
Traditionally, Turkish women wove skirt
their clothing according to individual
designs, and dyed them using plant
extracts. Today, each region has its
own styles of şalvar (trousers worn
by women) and head coverings
such as başörtüsü (scarves).

A group of folk dancers


wears the traditional costume
of the Van region. Folk dancing
is hugely popular, with regional
costumes as much a part of the
show as music and laughter.

NATIONAL SERVICE
All men over the age of 20 must serve 15 months of
compulsory military service, and Turkish society still
considers this to be a fundamental rite of passage to
manhood. For rural youths, this may be their first time
away from home, and askerlik (military service) fulfils
a social role as a bridge to adulthood. The departing
conscript may be required to visit friends and relatives
to ask forgiveness for any wrongdoings and be pres-
ented with gifts and money before he reports for duty.

Young soldiers of the Turkish Army on duty


28 I N T R O D U C I N G T U R K E Y

Islamic Art in Turkey Ceramic tile


panels contain
In Islamic art, the highest place is messages taken
held by calligraphy, or the art of from the Koran,
beautiful writing. This is because a Calligraphic
executed in Arabic
or Kufic script.
calligrapher’s prime task is writing inscription
the Holy Koran, believed by Muslims in embossed
metal
to be the word of God. In the purest
Tile detail forms of Islam, the use of animal
forms in works of art is regarded as
detracting from pious thoughts. Thus artists and
craftsmen turned their talents to designs featuring
geometric motifs and intricate foliage designs
known as arabesques. As well as calligraphy,
these highly disciplined forms included miniature
paintings, jewellery, metal, tiles and ceramics,
stone-carving and textiles. Under the Ottomans,
the finest creations came from the Nakkaşhane,
or sultan’s design studio. Here, an apprentice
system that lasted up to 10 years maintained the
imperial traditions of excellence and innovation.

Floral
The sultan’s tuğra was his
decorations personal monogram, used
in place of his signature.
It would be drawn by a
calligrapher or engraved on
a wooden block as a stamp.
This example shows the
tuğra of Abdül Hamit I
(1774–89).

Ornamental
Tile panel
loops
featuring plant
motifs

Koranic texts
provided templates
for woodcarvers,
metal-workers,
weavers and ceramic
painters. Although
highly decorative,
Islamic art is filled
with meaning: the
tulip (lãle), a much- SOKOLLU MEHMET PAŞA
used motif, is an MOSQUE IN KADIRGA,
anagram for Allah. ISTANBUL
Floral tile motif Designed by Sinan (1577–8) for
a distinguished grand vizier,
the prayer hall features a beau-
tiful qibla (wall of the mosque
at right angles to the direction
of Mecca). The calligraphic
decoration includes exquisite
Inscription in metal
tilework and stone-carving.
A P O R T R A I T O F T U R K E Y 29

The minaret of the Green


Mosque (Yeşil Camii) in İznik THE ART OF THE
Tilework on
(see p160) features complex OTTOMAN MINIATURE
squinches patterns of coloured tiles.
The mosque, which was Ottoman miniature painting
supporting
the dome completed in 1378, takes was primarily a courtly art
its name from the richly form, which reached a peak
decorated minaret. of development in the late
16th century during the rule
of Süleyman the Magnificent
(see p55). Miniature painting
was influenced by Persian
art, with many of the finest
Persian minaturists being
brought to work at the
court workshops of Topkapı
Palace (see pp68–71). As
well as illustrations for
manuscripts of Koranic texts
and Persian epics – Persian
was the language of the
Ottoman court – a unique
style was developed to
record the history of the
dynasty. This included battle
scenes, palace rituals, major
festivals and topographical
scenes. By the 17th century,
miniature painters had
mastered three-dimensional
representation, while the
This tile panelis set
into the the stone wall. 18th century heralded a
more naturalistic style and a
broadening of subjects to
The conical roof include landscapes, still lifes
of the minbar (see and portraits. Although
p32) features there were a number of
polychrome tiling. celebrated miniature artists,
these exquisite works were,
Stained-glass windows
for the most part, neither
signed nor dated.

An Arabic inscription
winds around a gravestone
in the grounds of the Alanya
Museum (see p226).

A tile panel over the entrance


to the Mausoleum of Selim II, in
the precincts of Haghia Sophia
in Istanbul, shows a masterful Early 17th-century miniature
integration of calligraphy and showing Hasan, grandson of
organic motifs. Mohammed, on his deathbed
30 I N T R O D U C I N G T U R K E Y

Ottoman Architecture
From Albania to Tripoli, and from Baghdad to
Bosnia, the Ottomans left superb examples of
their architectural skills. Nowhere is this more
apparent than in Istanbul, where the sultans
İznik tile
built beautiful mosques, palaces and külliyes
detail (Islamic charitable institutions).
Ottoman architecture is marked by a strict
hierarchy of forms, scales and materials, reflecting the
rank of a building’s patron. Mosques commissioned by
members of the Ottoman family, for example, were the
only ones entitled to two or more minarets. Another Ornamental fountains
distinguishing feature is the influence of Byzantine (çeşme) were built in busy
central squares or markets.
architecture. Many architects, among them Mimar Sinan This example is in the bazaar
(see p101), were of Greek or Armenian origin. in Kayseri (see pp290–91).

THE EARLY OTTOMAN MOSQUE


The earliest form of the Ottoman mosque
consisted of a single large prayer hall covered by
a hemispheric dome, with a covered porch and
minaret outside. The Junior Hacı Özbek Mosque
(1333) in İznik is considered the earliest example
of this form. It was modified by adding bays
(often covered by small domes) around the central
dome, and by the addition of a covered portico
and arcaded courtyard.

Rubble-filled A pier supports the


masonry wall central dome.

The pillared portico i


s covered by seven
domes.
The Selimiye Mosque, in Konya (see
A ground plan pp250–51), was started in 1558 by Sultan
of the Selimiye Selim II when he was governor of Konya.
Mosque shows It was finished in 1587. Clearly visible is
the domed bays the bulk of the central prayer hall, which
surrounding the is topped by a hemispheric dome. The
central hall. mosque adjoins the Mevlâna Museum.

THE LATER OTTOMAN MOSQUE


The central dome Four semi-domes, each
The form of the Ottoman mosque is 19 m (62 ft) in resting on three arches,
underwent a dramatic evolution in diameter. surround the central dome.
the years following the conquest
of Constantinople. The Ottomans
Minaret Small corner
frequently converted Orthodox dome
churches, notably Haghia Sophia
(see pp82–5), into mosques. Under
the influence of such models,
architects began to create higher,
single-domed mosques, and greatly
open up the interior space.

The Şehzade Mosque (also called


the Prince’s Mosque) in Istanbul was
the first imperial mosque built by the
architect, Mimar Sinan (see p101).
It was commissioned in 1543 by
Süleyman the Magnificent.
A P O R T R A I T O F T U R K E Y 31

FOUNTAINS (ŞADIRVAN) Decorative


Based on the Koranic principle cupola
that water is the source of life,
the provision of public water Calligraphic
supplies was a civic duty. Every panels feature
town had its çeşme (public verses from the
fountain), and külliyes offered Koran.
sebil (free distribution of water).
The şadırvan was placed in a
mosque courtyard for the Basin
performance of ritual ablutions.

The Fountain of Sultan Ahmet III


is one of the most famous sights of
Istanbul. Built in 1728, the square
structure has basins on all sides.

THE KONAK Pitched


Like many other Ottoman buildings, the konak Wooden roof
(mansion house) consisted of a wooden upper floor
structure built on a foundation of stone and
brick to withstand the cold Anatolian winter.
The ground floor contained granaries, stables
and storage areas. The kitchens and public
rooms were on the first floor, with the private
quarters on the top floor.

Living areas had


sofas (upholstered
benches) along
the walls. The
nook shown here Stone
is in a konak that foundation
has been turned A rural konak in northern Turkey shows
into a hotel in the typical three-storey form. Some had
Safranbolu (see separate entrances for the harem (women’s
pp268–9). quarters) and selamlık (men’s quarters).

BUILDING TYPES
YALI
The yalı (waterfront villa), is found along the Bosphorus. Most Bedesten Covered stone
yalıs were built during the 18th and 19th centuries as grand market
summer residences for wealthy citizens of Ottoman Istanbul.
Sited to make maximum use of the waterside location, they Çeşme Public water fountain
also incorporated boathouses or moorings.
Daruşşifa Hospital

Wood was Hamam Bath house


the main (see p77)
building
material. İmaret Soup kitchen

Külliye Educational/charitable
complex surrounding a major
Decorative
mosque (see pp32–3)
pilasters
Medrese Theological college
The water-
(see pp32–3)
side location
provided easy Mescit Small prayer hall
access and
maximum Tekke Dervish lodge
visibility.
Tımarhane Lunatic asylum
Yalıs were built in a variety of forms and
architectural styles, from simple wooden structures Türbe Tomb
to this lavish Russian-style mansion.
32 I N T R O D U C I N G T U R K E Y

Exploring Mosques
Five times a day throughout Istanbul a chant is
broadcast over loudspeakers set high in the city’s
minarets to call the faithful to prayer. Over 99 per cent
of the population is Muslim, though the Turkish state
is officially secular. Most belong to the Sunni branch
of Islam, but there are also a few Shiites. Both follow
the teachings of the Koran, the sacred book of Islam,
and the Prophet Mohammed (c.570–632), but Shiites
accept, in addition, the authority of a line of 12 imams
directly descended from Mohammed. Islamic mystics Overview of the impressive
are known as Sufis (see p255). Süleymaniye Mosque complex

Turkish baths
The ablutions fountain
(şadİrvan) was used by (hamam)
worshippers for ritual washing. Courtyard
(avlu)
The han or
caravanserai
(see pp24–5) Prayer hall
provided (cami)
accommo-
dation for
travellers.

A mausoleum (türbe)
was built for the founder
The kitchen of the mosque.
(imaret) catered
for mosque
officials, stu-
dents, the sick PLAN OF A TYPICAL MOSQUE
and the poor. COMPLEX (KULLİYE)
The külliye was a charitable
Hospital
foundation as well as a place of
(darüşşifa) worship. This example forms part
of the Süleymaniye Mosque (see
Colleges (medreses) for general
pp100–101) in Istanbul. A typical külliye
and theological education were had a school, hospital, Islamic study halls,
built adjacent to the mosque. caravanserai (lodgings for travellers),
Most now serve other uses. public soup kitchen, and bath house.

INSIDE A MOSQUE
The prayer hall of a great mosque can offer
visitors a soaring sense of space. Islam
forbids images of living things (human or
animal) inside a mosque, so there are never
any statues or figurative paintings, but the
geometric and abstract architectural details
of the interior can be exquisite. Men and
women pray separately. Women often
use a screened-off area or a balcony.

The mihrab, a niche The minbar is a lofty


in the wall, marks the pulpit to the right of the
The müezzin mahfili is a platform found in direction of Mecca. mihrab. This is used by
large mosques. The muezzin (mosque official) The prayer hall is laid the imam when he
stands on this when chanting responses to the out so that most people delivers the Friday
prayers of the imam (head of the mosque). can see the mihrab. sermon (khutba).
A P O R T R A I T O F T U R K E Y 33

MUSLIM BELIEFS AND PRACTICES PRAYER TIMES


Muslims believe in God (Allah), and the Koran
shares many prophets and stories with the Bible. The five daily prayer times are
However, whereas for Christians Jesus is the son calculated according to the times
of God, Muslims hold that he was just one in of sunrise and sunset, and thus
a line of prophets – the last being Mohammed, change throughout the year.
who brought the final revelation of God’s truth Exact times are posted on boards
to mankind. Muslims believe that Allah com- outside large mosques. Those
municated the sacred texts of the Koran to given here are a guide.
Mohammed through the archangel Gabriel.
Muslims have five basic duties. The first of Prayer Summer Winter
these is the profession of faith: “There is no Sabah 5am 7am
God but Allah, and Mohammed is his Prophet”. Öğle 1pm 1pm
Muslims are also enjoined to pray five times İkindi 6pm 4pm
a day, give alms to the poor, and fast during Akşam 8pm 6pm
the month of Ramazan (see p36). Once during Yatsı 9:30pm 8pm
their lifetime, if they can afford it, they should
make the pilgrimage (haj) to Mecca (in Saudi
Arabia), the site of the Kaaba, a sacred shrine
built by Abraham, and also the birthplace
of the Prophet.

The call to prayer used to be


given by the muezzin from the
balcony of the minaret. Now-
adays loudspeakers broadcast
the call. Only imperial mosques
have more than one minaret.

Ritual ablutions
must be under-
taken before
prayer. Worship-
pers wash their When praying, Muslims face the
head, hands and Kaaba in Mecca, even if they
feet either at the are not in a mosque, where the
fountain in the mihrab indicates the right direc-
courtyard or at tion. Kneeling and lowering the
taps set in a wall head to the ground are gestures
of the mosque. of humility and respect for Allah.

VISITING A MOSQUE
Visitors are welcome at any mosque in
Turkey, but non-Muslims should avoid
visiting at prayer times, especially the main
weekly congregation and sermon on Fridays.
Take off your shoes before entering the
prayer hall. Shoulders and knees should be
covered. In remote
areas women
should cover their
head with a scarf
but main touristic
mosques insist less
on this. Do not eat,
take photographs
with a flash or
stand very close
The loge (hünkar The kürsü, seen in to worshippers.
mahfili) provided the some mosques, is a A contribution to
sultan with a screened- throne used by the a donation box
off balcony where he imam while he or mosque official Board outside a mosque
could pray, safe from reads extracts is courteous. giving times of prayers
would-be assassins. from the Koran.
34 I N T R O D U C I N G T U R K E Y

TURKEY THROUGH THE YEAR


T urkey’s national and
regional holidays fall
into three categories:
religious feasts celebrated
throughout the Islamic world,
Regional events celebrate Turkey’s
diverse origins in terms of
music, folklore, sport and the
performing arts. Urban centres
like İzmir and Istanbul host well-
festivities associated with events publicized festivals, but smaller
or people in Turkish history, and towns also stage lively celebra-
traditional festivals, usually with tions. Luna park (fun fairs) are
a seasonal theme. The joyful wildly popular. The passage of
Folk dancers
spirit is tangible on public holi- the seasons is important, as many
days and religious feast days venues are outdoors. In the east-
when old and young, rich and poor ern provinces, harsh winters restrict
unite and extended families gather. the types of events that can be staged.

SPRING

This is the best season for


visiting Turkey. Temper-
atures are comfortable and
the days longer and warmer.
Many places receive a facelift
after winter and restaurants
arrange their tables outdoors.
This is also the time to see
Turkey’s wild flower displays.
Most tourist attractions, such
as the historic sights, are far
less crowded and thus more
peaceful at this time of year.
Turkish children paying their respects to the memory of Atatürk
MARCH
National Sovereignty and Marmaris International
International Film Festival Children’s Day (23 Apr). Yachting Festival (2nd week
(late Mar–mid-Apr), Istanbul. Anniversary of the first Grand in May), at Marmaris (see
Various cinemas in the city National Assembly that con- pp200–201). Mainly a con-
screen a selection of Turkish vened in Ankara in 1920. vention for yacht owners, bro-
and foreign films. Children from all kers and buyers, this event
around Turkey com- fills the marina with all
APRIL memorate the life of kinds of vessels and is
the revered Atatürk. sure to appeal to any-
Tulip Festival (Apr–May), ANZAC Day (24–25 one interested
Emirgan, Istanbul. A colour- Apr), Çanakkale and in yachting.
ful celebration of the flower Gallipoli Peninsula (see National Youth
that originated in Turkey, pp168–9). Representa- and Sports Day
held in a chic suburb north tives from Australia, (19 May). Celebrated
of the Fatih Bridge. New Zealand and all over the country
Turkey commemorate to mark Atatürk’s
the courage in battle birthdate in 1881
displayed by both Memorial at and the anniver-
sides in World War I. Gallipoli sary of his arrival in
the town of Samsun
MAY (see p265) in 1919 to plan the
War of Independence.
Yunus Emre Culture and Conquest of Istanbul (May
Art Week (6–10 May), 29), Istanbul. The anniversary
Eskişehir (see p257). A week- of Constantinople’s capture
long commemoration of the by Sultan Mehmet the
life and devotional love Conqueror in 1453.
Tulips in Emirgan Park, scene of poetry of the 13th-century Cirit Games (May–Sep; see
the Tulip Festival in spring mystic, Yunus Emre. September p36).
T U R K E Y T H R O U G H T H E Y E A R 35

JULY

Navy Day (1 Jul). This


holiday has some symbolism
for Turks as it commemorates
the anniversary of the end of
the capitulations, or trade
concessions, granted by the
Ottoman sultans to a number
of European powers from the
mid-16th century onwards.
International Hittite Festival
(first week Jul), Çorum (see
p294). Students of Hittite art
Turkey’s beaches, popular with locals and visitors in summer and culture and enthusiasts
from around the globe
formance of Mozart’s gather for this annual event
SUMMER Abduction from the Seraglio, to attend lectures, debates
which is authentically staged and related outings.
Turks take their holidays at the Topkapı Palace.
seriously, and summer Kırkpınar Festival and AUGUST
sees coastal areas of the Grease Wrestling Champi-
Aegean and Mediterranean, onship (last week Jun), Troy Festival (10–15 Aug),
in particular, crowded with Edirne (see pp152–3). A Çanakkale (see p174). Dance,
university students and popular event with men, in theatre and art events that
families on the move. Those which the contenders, in attract foreign
city-dwellers lucky enough kıspet (leather performers.
to own a summer house breeches) and Hacı Bektaş
usually move to the coast to smeared with Commem-
escape the oppressive heat olive oil, com- orative
when the school holidays pete for the Ceremony
begin in June. coveted honour (mid-Aug),
Turkey’s beaches offer in this tradition- Avanos (see
opportunities for all kinds of al national p283). Annual
activities, and resorts such as sport. ceremony held
Bodrum and Marmaris are International in remembrance
renowned for their active Opera and Ballet of Hacı Bektaş Veli,
nightlife. Be on the look-out Festival (Jun–mid- the mystic and
for impromptu festivals Jul), Aspendos (see Grease-wrestling philosopher who
involving grease-wrestling or p221). The Roman tournament founded an Islamic
folk dancing, for example. amphitheatre is the sect based on the
Although local tourist offices venue for thrilling, principles of unity
have information on events open-air performances of and human tolerance.
in their area, these may not opera, ballet and orchestral Turkish Grand Prix (third
be well publicized and full music. Visitors can also enjoy week Aug), Otodram, Tuzla
details may be unavailable a picnic at the site before and Istanbul. One leg of this
until just prior to the event. performances. Formula One racing event is
held at the purpose-built
JUNE Grand Prix Circuit.
International İzmir Festival
Kafkasör Culture and Arts (last week Aug–early Sep),
Festival (second week Jun), İzmir (see pp178–9). An
Artvin (see p275). A festival excellent programme for
in an alpine meadow that connoisseurs of music, ballet
offers country handicrafts, and theatre. Some perfor-
folk dancing and singing, mances also take place at
as well as bull wrestling. Çeşme and Ephesus.
Istanbul Festival of Arts Victory Day (30 Aug). This
and Culture (mid-Jun– day, known as Zafer Bayramı,
mid-Jul), venues around the is celebrated throughout
city. A prestigious event for Turkey. It celebrates the
opera, theatre and ballet victory of the Turkish
performances. Both Turkish Republican army over the
and Western classical music Greeks at the battle of
are featured and the International Opera and Ballet Dumlupınar in 1922 during
highlight is a one-night per- Festival poster, Aspendos the War of Independence.
36 I N T R O D U C I N G T U R K E Y

Bodrum (see pp198–9). This


regatta is open to several
classes of wooden yachts
only. Both Turkish and
foreign yachtsmen compete.
Race Week (last week Oct to
first week Nov), Marmaris (see
pp200–201). In-and offshore
races held in three divisions
under authority of the Turkish
Sailing Federation. There is
also a fancy-dress night, and
cocktail and dinner parties.
Republic Day (29 Oct).
This important national
holiday commemorates the
Racing yachts competing in Marmaris Race Week proclamation of the Turkish
Republic in 1923.
between polo and javelin-
AUTUMN throwing in which horse and NOVEMBER
rider enjoy equal prestige.
Autumn is an ideal time for The games take place every Atatürk Commemoration
visiting Turkey. The rural Sunday. Kaş-Lycia Culture and Day (10 Nov). Atatürk’s death
regions have grape or wine Art Festival (first week Sep), in 1938 is recalled each year
festivals and many villages Kaş. Renowned for its with a poignant one-minute
celebrate their success- superb performan- silence. This show of respect
ful harvests of wheat, ces of contem- is observed throughout the
apricots, cotton or other porary dance country at 9:05am, the exact
crops. In coastal regions, and theatre, as moment the revered leader
the sea is still well as pain- passed away in Istanbul’s
warm and ting exhibits. Dolmabahçe Palace. Every-
watersports can Tango Festival thing in the country grinds to
continue well (second week in a halt – people and even the
into October. Sep), in Marmaris traffic stops.
Along the south (see pp200–201). A
coast, warm weather popular six-day MUSLIM HOLIDAYS
can last until quite Watermelon cart, event in which
late in November. Diyarbakır couples follow the The dates of the Muslim
lead of profes- calendar and its holy
SEPTEMBER sional dance couples. days are governed by the
Watermelon Festival phases of the moon and
Cirit Games (May–Sep), (16–23 Sep), Diyarbakır (see therefore change from
Erzurum (see pp318–319). pp310–311). One of only a year to year. In the holy
Cirit originated with nomads few festivals in eastern Tur- month of Ramazan,
from Central Asia. It is a key, this one focuses on the Muslims do not eat or
rough-and-tumble cross gigantic watermelons grown drink between dawn and
by the local farmers. dusk. Some restaurants
Cappadocia Grape Harvest are closed during the day
Festival (mid-Sep), Ürgüp and tourists should be
(see p283). Celebration of discreet when eating in
local food and wine in an public. Straight after this
area that has been called the follows the three-day
birthplace of viticulture. Şeker Bayramı (Sugar
Festival), when sweet-
OCTOBER meats are prepared. Two
months and 10 days later,
Golden Orange Film a four-day celebration,
Festival (first week Oct), Kurban Bayramı (Feast of
Antalya (see pp218–19). the Sacrifice),
Turkish-language films and commemorates the Kora-
those with a local flavour nic version of Abraham’s
now feature more prominen- sacrifice. This is the main
tly in this festival that has annual public holiday in
been going for over 20 years. Turkey, and hotels, trains
Horse and rider at the Cirit International Bodrum Cup and roads are packed.
Games in Erzurum Regatta (third week of Oct),
T U R K E Y T H R O U G H T H E Y E A R 37

the mystic who founded the


Mevlevi order. This is the
only time that the whirling
dervishes are in residence
in their home city and offers
one of the best performances
anywhere in Turkey.

JANUARY

New Year’s Day (1 Jan).


A national holiday.
Camel Wrestling (mid-Jan),
Selçuk (see p180). Premier
Whirling Dervishes at the Mevlevi Monastery in Istanbul championship event held in
the ruined Roman theatre at
the main course is turkey! Ephesus (see pp182–3).
WINTER Visitors are always welcome
to join in these celebrations, FEBRUARY
When the street vendors but advance booking is
begin roasting chestnuts advisable for popular places. Camel Wrestling (through
in Ankara and Istanbul, it is a Some establishments that Feb), Aydın, İzmir and other
sign that winter is near. Both close for the winter open Aegean towns. Impromptu
cities can be damp and cold. again just for the New Year’s camel wrestling bouts (deve
Ankara frequently has Eve celebrations. güreşi) that coincide with the
temperatures below freezing mating season (Dec–Feb),
and much snow. This is DECEMBER after which male camels
when coastal regions have become docile again.
their rainy season. Winter is St Nicholas Symposium and
a good time for visitors to Festival (first week Dec),
explore Turkey’s museums, Demre (see p216). Visitors
as major sights are open and who have an interest in the
uncrowded. The ski centres legend of Santa Claus will
(see p384) at Palandöken not want to miss this
(see p319) and Uludağ (see symposium and the discus-
p157) have their busiest sions and ceremonies that
season from December to accompany it. A host of
April, and offer activities related debates is organized,
both on and off the slopes. and pilgrimages are made to
Turks do not celebrate the 4th century church of St
Christmas, but most hotel Nicholas in Demre, located A champion camel, adorned with
chains offer a special menu near Antalya, and to the tassels and rugs
on the day. New Year’s Day, birthplace of Nicholas in
however, is an official holi- Patara, near Kaş. NATIONAL HOLIDAYS
day throughout Turkey. Mevlâna Festival (10–17
It is celebrated heartily in Dec), Konya (see pp250–51). New Year’s Day (1 Jan)
restaurants and at home, and A festival that commemorates National Sovereignty and
a lavish meal is served. Often Celaleddin Rumi (see p255), Children’s Day Ulusal
Egemenlik ve Çocuk
Bayramı (23 Apr)
National Youth and
Sports Day Gençlik ve
Spor Günü (19 May)
Conquest of Istanbul
(May 29)
Navy Day Denizcilik
Günü (1 Jul)
Victory Day Zafer
Bayramı (30 Aug)
Republic Day Cumhuriyet
Bayramı (29 Oct)
Atatürk Commemoration
Day (10 Nov)
New Year’s celebrations in Istanbul
38 I N T R O D U C I N G T U R K E Y

ISTANBUL

The Climate of Turkey 29


(84)
Turkey’s mountainous terrain and maritime influence 21
°C 18
have created diverse climatic regions. The Aegean and (°F) 16 (64) (70)
Mediterranean coasts enjoy mean temperatures of 29°C (61) 12 9
(84°F) in July and 9°C (48°F) in January. Rain falls mainly 7 (54) (48)
(45) 3
in winter; Antalya receives an annual average of 991 mm (37)
(39 in). Along the Black Sea, rainfall is heavier, averaging
2,438 mm (96 in) a year. The rugged northeast has warm 6 12 6 3
summers, but severe winters, with temperatures averaging hrs hrs hrs hrs
-9°C (16°F). Precipitation is more evenly spread throughout 46 34 81 109
the year, and snow lasts 120 days. The central plateau has mm mm mm mm

hot, dry summers averaging 23°C (73°F) and cold, moist month Apr Jul Oct Jan

winters, when temperatures average below 0°C (32°F).


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(64) 16 31
(61) (88) 28
10 (82)
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(50) 7 °C °C
(45) (45) 19 20 (73) 18
1 (°F) (66) (68) (°F) 16
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10 (57)
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8 10 5 4 (39) (43) (37)
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26 26 26 26 (25)
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Jul Oct Jan
26 26 26 26 26 26 26 26
mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm
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T U R K E Y T H R O U G H T H E Y E A R 39

CAPPADOCIA AND THE BLACK SEA


CENTRAL ANATOLIA

27
(81) 25
°C °C (77) 20
19
(°F) 16 13 (6) (°F) 17 (68)
14 (63)
(61) (55) (57) 11 8
5 2 7 (52) (46)
4
(39) (41) (36) (45) 2
-5 (36)
(23)
8 10 5 4 3 8 7 3
hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs

26 26 26 26 51 26 76 76
mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm
month Apr Jul Oct Jan month Apr Jul Oct Jan

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MEDITERRANEAN (°F) 16 17 (68)
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TURKEY 7
33 5 (45) 2
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°C 21 21 (79) Average monthly
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maximum
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(50) 5 51 51 51 26
Average monthly mm mm mm mm
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temperature month Apr Jul Oct Jan

10 13 8 7 Average daily
hrs hrs hrs hrs
hours of sunshine
51 26 51 102 Average monthly
mm mm mm mm 0 kilometres 100
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month Apr Jul Oct Jan
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I N T R O D U C I N G T U R K E Y 41

T H E H I S T O RY O F T U R K E Y

T
he history of Turkey is as ancient as that of humankind.
Known as Anatolia and previously as Asia Minor, this land
has witnessed the rise and fall of many great and advanced
civilizations, from the early Hittites to the Persians, Lydians, Greeks,
Romans, Byzantines and Ottomans. A singular heritage of splendid
art and architecture bears the mark of an often tumultuous past.

Long before great empires such THE FERTILE CRESCENT


as the Persian, Roman, Byzantine The earliest permanent settlers
and Ottoman began to exploit were the prehistoric farming
the strategic position of Asia communities of Mesopotamia,
Minor, important ancient civi- living in the well-watered stretch
lizations flourished in the fertile of land between the Tigris and
river valleys, on the windswept, Euphrates rivers in what is now
arid interior plains and along the northern Syria and Iraq.
southern coastline of Anatolia. Around 10,000 BC groups of
The early communities were people began to settle in Anatolia,
replaced by successive waves where they raised crops of
of migration that saw the rise Female figurine, wheat and barley. They also
and fall of new cultures, each Alacahöyük kept domestic animals such as
(c.1270 BC)
of which left reminders of its sheep, goats and cattle, and
dominance and glory and con- used dogs to protect and herd
tributed to the astoundingly varied their livestock. These early farmers
cultural tapestry that forms the basis were the first to venture beyond the
of today’s proud, modern republic. boundaries of the Fertile Crescent,
establishing communities along the
PREHISTORIC TURKEY Mediterranean and Red Sea, as well
Stone tools as well as various other as around the Persian Gulf. Here, the
crude artifacts, animal bones and archaeological remains of Neolithic
food fossils from the Old Stone Age villages date back to 8000 BC, and by
that were found near Burdur north of 7000 BC countless thriving settle-
Antalya (see pp218–19), prove that ments had sprung up.
people have lived in Turkey since It was during this period that people
20,000 BC. The earliest inhabitants discovered how to smelt metal and
were nomadic hunter-gatherers who work with it. They developed meth-
migrated in response to changing ods of extracting and casting various
weather patterns and seasons. They useful objects such as weapons, as
followed the wild animal herds they well as ornamental items. The
depended upon for their sustenance, earliest items cast from copper were
clothing, tools and weapons. made in Anatolia around 5000 BC.

TIMELINE

20,000 BC Old Stone Hand 10,000 BC End of Old


Age settlement north axe Stone Age in Anatolia
of Antalya

20,000 BC 18,000 BC 16,000 BC 14,000 BC 12,000 BC 10,000 BC 8000 BC

Flint 17,000 BC Paleolithic 9000 BC Emergence


spear hunter-gatherers fashion of modern humans
tips flint spear tips in Anatolia

Constantine IX Monomachus, ruler of the Byzantine Empire from 1042 to 1055


42 I N T R O D U C I N G T U R K E Y

THE FIRST TOWN THE COPPER AGE


Together with Hacılar, Çatalhöyük (see By the Copper Age (from about 5500
p254) near Konya was possibly the to 3000 BC), farming had become a
world’s first town. It had a population way of life and people were raising
of around 5,000 people and is thought crops and animals for a living. The
to have been the largest settlement increase in agricultural activity
at the time. Most of its inhabitants created a growing need for tools
were farmers, but there was also and implements. Methods for ore
brisk trade in obsidian (volcanic extraction and smelting were
glass), brought into workshops refined and passed on from father
from nearby volcanoes and used to son. Copper implements were
to fashion sharp cutting tools. widely used. Focal points of this
Archaeologists have been able period were Hacılar and Canhasan,
to determine with certainty that both of which also manufactured
Çatalhöyük’s houses were sturdy fine pottery items, using advanced
structures built of brick and techniques. Their attractive clay
timber. The architectural designs Flint dagger vessels were decorated with
also reflect the demands of an with bone
handle
distinctive multicoloured
advanced culture that valued backgrounds.
comfort. They typically feature
separate living quarters and cooking THE BRONZE AGE
areas, as well as several sheds and a Between 3000–1200 BC, the Anatolian
number of store rooms. metalworkers began to experiment
Cattle seem to have played a rather with various techniques and developed
important part in this ancient culture new skills. Their workshops produced
of Anatolia. This is evident from the a surplus of goods and a brisk trade
fact that many of the rooms that were began to flourish. Among these items
excavated at Çatalhöyük were deco- were gold jewellery, ornaments, belts,
rated with elaborate wall paintings drinking vessels and statuettes of the
depicting cows, as well as clay heads mother goddess.
with real horns moulded
in relief onto the walls.
Since Çatalhöyük’s people
had animistic beliefs, it
has been suggested that
the murals and bull’s-
head emblems could
point to the practice of
ritual or cult activities.
Similarly, small terracotta
figurines of a voluptuous
female deity (the mother
goddess) probably played
a part in fertility rites,
offerings or other reli-
gious ceremonies. Artist’s impression of Çatalhöyük, possibly the world’s first town

TIMELINE

8000 BC Start of the 5600 BC Fertility


Neolithic period in Statuette of mother figurines made of
Anatolia goddess, Çatalhöyük terracotta at Hacİlar
and Çatalhöyük
8000 BC 7000 BC 6000 BC 5000 BC
7250–7500 BC 6800 BC Çatalhöyük 5000 BC Pottery
Community at Cayonu develops into a begins to combine
near Diyarbakİr farms farming town of functionality with
with sheep and goats 5,000 people Terracotta attractive design
jar from
Canhasan
T H E H I S T O R Y O F T U R K E Y 43

THE ASSYRIANS are the earliest examples of writing to


The empire of Assyria developed in have been discovered in Anatolia.
northern Mesopotamia sometime in Lively trade meant increased travel
the 3rd millennium BC. It expanded and demands on transport. Some
and, by about 1900 BC, a network of areas saw the introduction of simple
Assyrian trading colonies had been taxation systems. For the first time in
established. Commerce between history, money came to be regarded
northern Mesopotamia and Anatolia as the primary source of wealth, and
began to take shape. envy, conflict and violence
As trade goods circulated, ensued as communities sought
the demand for them quickly to protect territories, routes and
grew and merchants found resources from outsiders.
themselves catering to a Not all inhabitants of the area
rapidly expanding market. presently occupied by Turkey
The Assyrians grasped gathered in central Anatolia.
the importance of keeping The city of Troy, immortalized
track of their transactions, by Homer and Virgil, stood
and developed a writing at the strategic entrance to
system using cuneiform the Dardanelles Straits (see
symbols to represent words. p168). Some scholars believe
Their trade agreements and that the fall of Troy, as told
accounts were imprinted on Assyrian clay ´letter’ in Homer’s Iliad, coincides
clay tablets, several of which and envelope with the end of the Bronze
have been preserved. The Age, an era that had helped
commercial records that were found to establish an artistic and civilized
at the Assyrian trading colony at culture in which the next civilization,
Kanesh (modern Kültepe, see p291) the Hittites, would thrive and flourish.

HELEN OF TROY
According to Greek mythology Helen was the most
beautiful woman of the ancient world. She was the
daughter of King Tyndareus and Leda, who had
been seduced by Zeus. In childhood, Helen was
abducted by Theseus, who hoped to marry her
when the time came. After having been rescued
by her twin brothers Castor and Pollux, King
Tyndareus decreed that Helen should marry the
man of her choice. Helen chose Menelaus, king
of Sparta, and lived happily at his side until she
met Paris. Her elopement with the Trojan prince
resulted in a heated battle between Greece and
Troy as Menelaus fought to free his wife. After
nine years of futile warfare Menelaus and Paris
agreed to meet in single combat. Paris died as
a result of his wounds; the victorious Menelaus
reclaimed his Helen and returned with her to
Sparta, where they lived happily to an old age. Beautiful Helen of Troy with Paris

4000–3000 BC
Settlement at 3000 BC Beginning of 1900 BC Brisk
Alacahöyük Bronze Age in Anatolia; trade by Assyrian
flourishes Gold cup, Troy, Ephesus and Smyrna trading colonies
Alacahöyük become important cities

4000 BC 3000 BC 2000 BC

3900 BC Cities begin 2500 BC Hatti 1900–2000 BC Assyrian


to emerge and a civilization Arrival of Hittites cylinder seal
simple form of establishes city from the Caucasus; made of
writing develops kingdoms rise of Hittite empire serpentine
Exploring the Variety of Random
Documents with Different Content
from a prostitute’s dwelling. It appears to be England alone, the
classical country of flagellomania, in which actual “flagellation
brothels” have existed.[609] A historical example is that of the
celebrated establishment of Theresa Berkley, the inventor of an
especial apparatus for the whipping of men, the so-called “Berkley-
Horse.” It appears that in England the female sex has a taste for
active and passive flagellation; and we find that a German
author[610] attributes to woman a greater inclination towards
flagellomania than that exhibited by man. This tendency is
encouraged by certain male flagellants, who obtain sexual
gratification by the flagellation of women. Guénolé (op. cit., pp. 151,
152) reports the existence of secret places in Paris where young
women and girls combine to form a kind of “school,” in which male
sadists carry out “instruction” with the switch!
In connexion with flagellation we must consider the peculiar
tendency to the fettering of the individual to be flogged, who
desires to be rendered defenceless. For this purpose various
apparatus exist of the same kind as the “fettering-chair” invented in
the eighteenth century by the Duke of Fronsac.[611] Of the same
nature also is the impulse to wear very tight shoes and gloves and
very small corsets, the so-called “corset discipline,” in which the
person affected, who may be of either sex, is laced up very tightly in
a very small corset. This is met with chiefly in England, especially in
association with sexual flagellation.
In comparatively rare cases flagellomania is a morbid condition by
which responsibility is entirely abrogated; but from the medico-legal
point of view responsibility is impaired or suspended in the majority
of cases of well-marked sadism, which we have now to describe. To
this category belong:
1. Sadistic Bodily Injuries and “Lust-Murder.”—The main
types of this category are the “girl-stabbers” and the “lust-
murderers,” who simply for the purpose of producing sexual
excitement, or when already under the influence of such excitement,
inflict on women more or less severe injuries with a knife or other
murderous instrument. The actual intention to kill is present only in
very rare cases. The lust-murder is, as a rule, only a murder as a
sequel of a sexual act committed by force, the murder being done
from fear of discovery, etc.; thus the murder has not in these cases
anything directly to do with the sexual act. In other cases we have
what appears to be a lust-murder in which death has resulted,
contrary to the wish of the offender, from a sadistic bodily injury.
Killing from a purely sexual motive is a very rare occurrence, of
which, however, some very widely known cases are on record—like
those of Andreas Bickel, Menesclou, Alton, Gruyo, Verzeni,[612] and
“Jack the Ripper,” the Whitechapel murderer. [Regarding the
Whitechapel murders, see E. C. Spitza, “The Whitechapel Murders:
their Medico-Legal and Historical Aspects,” published in the Journal
of Nervous and Mental Diseases, December, 1888. Great attention
and alarm was aroused in Paris in the years 1818-1819 by a girl-
stabber (piqueur). In numerous caricatures, popular songs, and
vaudevilles these assaults were “celebrated,” of which a very rare
pamphlet, “La Piqure à la Mode” (Paris, 1819), gives evidence. Cf. J.
Grand-Carteret in “Les Images Galantes” (1907, No. 7). Much alarm
was caused in July, 1902, by the crimes of a new “Jack the Ripper”
in New York, and by the horrible child-murders committed in Berlin
by an obviously insane sadist, not yet arrested. In a single day he
ripped up the abdomens of several small children with a pair of
scissors.] Many “murder epidemics” (manie homicide), such as the
murders recently committed in Sweden by Nordlund, who, though
indubitably insane, was executed for them, are certainly connected
with sexuality. The two following cases from German experience
relate to typical “girl-stabbers”:
Ludwigshafen am Rhein, March 26, 1901.—After the manner of the Whitechapel
murderer, an unknown criminal had for several weeks made the parts of the town
lying in the direction of the suburb of Mundenheim unsafe. Not less than eleven
girls were seriously injured after nightfall by stabs in the abdomen. To-night the
police succeeded in arresting the criminal, who is a drover, Wilhelm Damian by
name, twenty-eight years of age. Five years ago he was suspected of having
committed a lust-murder on a servant-girl; he was arrested at this time, but was
discharged owing to the lack of sufficient proof. Now the suspicion is aroused that
Damian is responsible also for the lust-murder committed two years ago near
Mundenheim on a little girl seven years of age, because the circumstances of that
case suggested that the murderer was a butcher by occupation, and this applies to
Damian.
Kiel, November 29, 1901.—It is not yet possible to arrest the stabber who,
during the last week, has been active in the poorest quarter of the town. At first
he limited himself to the northern districts, and there wounded only women and
girls; but in the last day or two he appeared, not only in the central parts of the
town, but also in the southern quarter, where, the day before yesterday, in the
evening, he wounded a girl by two stabs, one in the neck and one in the hip. Since
then a man has been stabbed, apparently by this same evil-doer, but was not
seriously hurt. This happened in one of the busiest streets of the town, so that the
escape of the criminal is very remarkable.

Other peculiar sadistic injuries sometimes occur. Thus, in the year


1902 a printer, twenty-two years of age, was condemned by the
criminal court of Breslau, because in thirteen cases he had thrown
oil of vitriol at young ladies! Here also we have probably to do with
a sadistic tendency. In the end of October, 1906, in Berlin, a case
came under notice in which a young girl took another girl to the
dentist (!) and (after previous anæsthetization) had two teeth drawn
unnecessarily; but whether this case was or was not of a sadistic
nature remains undetermined. But we certainly have to do with
sadism in those cases in which men or women inflict slight injuries
on their love-partner for the purpose of sucking blood, which gives
them sexual gratification (sexual vampirism). Many murders by
poison (women murderers commonly prefer the use of poison to
that of any other instrument) also arise from sadistic tendencies. At
any rate, the majority of professional female prisoners, such as
Jegado, Brinvilliers, Ursinus, Gottfried (the celebrated poisoner of
Bremen), and others, were unquestionably women given to sexual
excesses or sexually very excitable, so that here voluptuousness and
the lust for murder appear to have an intimate causal connexion.
The following remarkable case of sadistic deprivation of freedom is
reported by Kiernan (“A Remarkable Case of Fetishism,” published in
The Alienist and Neurologist, 1906, p. 462):
“Two citizens of good position, of Wladikaukas, in Russia, had repeatedly carried
off girls of good family, and had treated them in an extraordinary way. On account
of senile dementia they were acquitted of criminality, and were sent to an asylum.
The last victim was a young heiress, who was kept prisoner by them for an entire
year. Two masked elderly men fell upon her by night, gagged her, put a bandage
over her eyes, and drove away with her in a carriage. When the bandage was
taken off, she was in a well-furnished drawing-room. The two old men, without
saying a word, gave her a scanty dress of feathers, and shut her up in a great
gilded cage, which stood in the drawing-room. One of them—she never saw the
other again—came in silence to visit her every morning, looked at her through the
bars of the cage, often threw her lumps of sugar, and every morning brought her a
can of hot water, which he emptied into a vessel inside the cage, saying, ‘Take a
bath, little bird.’ These were the only words which she heard. After a year had
passed, the man let her out of the cage, put a bandage over her eyes, and drove
her in a carriage to a place near her house. No similar case is known to me in
medical literature. Everything was conducted Platonically; there was no coitus, no
exhibitionism or masturbation, either before or after looking at this peculiar bird.
Certainly there must have been some kind of abortive sexual gratification, of a
sadistic character, and with the limitation that only young girls of good family,
dressed as birds and kept in a cage, could excite libido. But why must they have
the appearance of a bird? Possibly in the subconsciousness the idea of the bird as
a lascivious animal played a certain part. But why did one only come and see the
‘bird’ every day? That they must be young girls is natural in the case of old men:
extremes meet; but that they must be of good family suggests a sadistic element,
and still more is this suggested by the imprisonment.”

2. Offences against Property committed from Sadistic


Motives.—To this class belong all sadistic injuries not of the person,
but of property. For example, pouring vitriol over the clothing, of
which the following case (Vossische Zeitung, No. 574, December 7,
1905) is an example:
At the present time an unknown man is making the south-eastern districts of
Berlin unsafe by the use of oil of vitriol. This dangerous criminal pours the liquid
upon women’s clothing, selecting by preference light-coloured fabrics. Yesterday
evening he almost completely ruined the new light-coloured dress of a young lady
who was passing along the Hermannstrasse. The offender, who apparently derives
pleasure from injuring women’s clothing, is of middle height, about twenty-five
years of age, has fair hair, and wears a fashionable overcoat.

To the same category belongs arson from sexual motives, which


was formerly[613] attributed to a “passion for fire” (pyromania); but
when sexual motives play a part, it is unquestionably of a purely
sadistic nature.[614]
Of the same character is sexual kleptomania—theft from sexual
motives. Lichtenberg was familiar with this, for he says “the sexual
impulse very frequently leads to thefts,” and he alludes to the
proposal which has been made in England to castrate thieves.[615]
The organic causation of the kleptomania so often seen at the
present day in large shops is very frequently of a sexual nature,
dependent upon puberty, the climacteric, menstrual anomalies, etc.
Cases of this character have been reported by Worbe, Gönner,
Schmidtlein, Unzer, Häussler, Lombroso, and Ferrero. The suspicion
of sexual sadistic grounds for kleptomania may always be justifiably
entertained when rich ladies repeatedly steal articles of small value
of which they have no need.
A typical case of sexual kleptomania is reported by H. Zingerle
(“Contributions to the Psychological Genesis of Sexual Perversities,”
published in the Annual for Psychiatry and Neurology, 1900):
A woman, twenty-one years of age, who from childhood had been psychopathic,
had from her school-days onwards had a definite desire to appropriate certain
objects, especially such as were made of brown leather (brown shoes), umbrellas,
money. Only the act of stealing gave her any gratification, not the keeping of the
stolen objects, which she usually destroyed or gave away. During the act of
theft she had a well-developed sense of voluptuousness, accompanied
by a discharge of secretion from the genital organs. She performed these
thefts as the result of an irresistible impulse, and after them she felt remorse. She
preferred large objects such as were difficult to hide, and it was precisely when
there were great hindrances to be overcome and dangers to be run, and
when in the pursuit of her aim she was subjected to emotional disturbances,
that the accompanying voluptuous sensations were most prominent. The
psychopathic basis of this condition is unquestionable.

In addition to these two categories of sadism, which for the most


part depend upon morbid conditions, we meet also with a symbolic
form of sadism, where this manifests itself rather in idea than in
reality, and where the person thus affected luxuriates in all possible
fantasies of the infliction of pain and of abasement.[616] This
mitigated sadism is certainly to some extent connected with
physiological sadism. Thus the so-called verbal sadism is nothing
more than an increase in, an emphatic instance of, the physiological
voluptuous sighing and crying in coitu, whose influence in verbal
sadism is increased, and exercises a stronger stimulus, by the
accentuation of the animal, the brutal, the coarse, and the
obscene. Verbal sadism is not a peculiar refinement of modern
debauchees, but a phenomenon belonging to folk-lore and
ethnology, an extraordinarily widely diffused mode of expression of
the primitive sadistic instinct of the genus homo. In the popular
speech of all countries we find that abusive terms and curses are
intermingled with extraordinary frequency with sexual matters and
ideas. The naïveté of this sexual depravity and cursing, with its
thousandfold variations, shows its origin from the purely instinctive
sources of the popular soul, as the celebrated brothers Grimm
recognized when they devoted a careful, critical investigation in their
well-known dictionary to the obscene verbal treasury of the
Germans. A rich material for the study of the sources of verbal
sadism is offered by the vocabularia erotica of Hesychios; also by the
collections of local and provincial riddles and proverbs.[617] A
typically developed verbal sadism is found among the Hindus,
especially the women. The Indian erotist Vātsyāyana rightly deduces
it from the various sounds which are uttered in normal coitus. In
European brothels the verbal sadists and verbal masochists are well-
known phenomena—men who find sexual enjoyment in the
expression of the coarsest, commonest, obscene words, curses, and
abusive language; in some cases by doing this themselves (verbal
sadism), in other cases by listening to it when done by others
(verbal masochism). Such verbal sadists, also, are the individuals
described by A. Eulenburg (“Sexual Neuropathy,” p. 104) as “verbal
exhibitionists,” people who gladly indulge in lascivious conversation
in the presence of women, or who whisper obscene words in
women’s ears. Many men visit prostitutes, not for the purpose of
having sexual intercourse with them, but merely for the opportunity
of such lecherous conversation. The following case, complicated by
bisexual or masochistic features, is characteristic of this:
A leading merchant of middle age visits a cocotte from time to time, and puts on
the girl’s silken clothing, whilst she must put on man’s dress; they then go out
walking arm-in-arm in dark, unfrequented streets, and converse meanwhile in an
extremely obscene, indecent manner; this alone suffices him for sexual
gratification. During the whole time he does not touch the girl.

This sexual depravity and obscene language can also be


conducted by correspondence. Thus we have a kind of “epistolary
sadism” and “epistolary masochism.” The former, especially, is
frequently employed in the circles of the “masseuses” and “strict
governesses,” in relation to their masochistic clientèle, whilst the
answers belong to the second category.
A remarkable symbolic form of sadism or masochism is
represented by inunction and lathering, for the purpose of sexual
gratification. Lathering with soap more especially is a phenomenon
with which those who have to do with brothels are especially
familiar. Either the man finds sexual pleasure in lathering the
prostitute or he experiences gratification in the passive attitude
when she lathers him. Some time ago, in a trial in which a man
belonging to one of our leading mercantile houses was accused, I
referred in my evidence to analogous occurrences in brothels and
among prostitutes. This testimony was disputed by another
physician, who stated that this “lathering” for the purpose of
inducing sexual excitement was “unknown” to him. It is, however, a
well-known phenomenon whose existence has been confirmed to me
by colleagues in Berlin, and more especially in Hamburg. According
as it is active or passive, it is respectively sadistic or masochistic.
Whether, in such cases, a defilement of the woman’s person is
effected, as in a case reported by von Krafft-Ebing, in which a man
blackened his mistress with charcoal, is indifferent. The larval sadism
consists in the act of manipulation, in the inunction or lathering.
As a last form of symbolic sadism may be mentioned blasphemy
based on sexual motives, the so-called “satanism,” which played
a great part more especially in the middle ages, and as the “black
mass” constituted a peculiar cult, in which the Christian Mass was
profaned by sexual practices, and was insulted to the uttermost.
According to Schwaeblé, these obscene masses are still celebrated at
the present day in two places in Paris. He gives a detailed
description of such a black mass which was celebrated in a house in
the Rue de Vaugirard.[618]
Passive algolagnia, masochism, the desire to endure pain and
degradation and abasement of every kind, for the purpose of
inducing sexual excitement, is perhaps to-day more widely diffused
even than its converse.[619] The cause of this, which is to be found
in the conventionality of our time, is a matter to which I have
previously more than once alluded (vide supra, pp. 322-324, 467-
469). This view is supported also by the remarkable fact that, above
all, lawyers, leading State officials, and judges, constitute a
disproportionately large contingent of masochists—that is to say,
persons whose professional life gives them a certain unusual
exercise of power, and whose profession imposes on them a strict
official demeanour. Precisely these conditions, perhaps, arouse
masochistic tendencies to activity, as a kind of liberation from
conventional pressure and the professional mask.
The connexion between love, voluptuousness, and the suffering of
pain, has already been discussed. In masochism there also comes
into play the important element of abasement, a complete self-
surrender of body and soul, self-sacrifice. The union of these
perceptions and their voluptuous tinge has been beautifully
described by Alfred de Musset:[620]
“My passion for my mistress had become extremely unruly, and my whole life
had assumed a kind of monastic savagery. I will give only one example of this:
She had given me her miniature likeness in a medallion. I wear it on my heart—
many men do this. But one day in the shop of a second-hand dealer I found an
iron scourge on the end of which was a small plate covered with little spines. I had
the medallion fastened on to the plate and wore it in this way. The spines, which
at every movement pierced the skin of my breast, produced in me the most
peculiar ecstasy, so that I sometimes pressed my hand on the place in order to
drive them deeper. I am well aware that this was folly; but love makes us commit
many such follies.”

In masochism physical pain plays an important part. The


“mistresses” have at their disposal an extensive instrumentarium for
producing such pain, for masochists often have the most peculiar
ideas regarding the mode in which their pain should be caused.
Probably unique in their kind are the two following authentic cases,
which my colleague, Dr. D——, in Hamburg, was so good as to
report to me:
1. A rich Hamburg merchant, known among the prostitutes by the name of “Nail
William,” had sexual intercourse only with certain prostitutes, who had to allow
their nails to grow quite long and pointed. They had to scratch him on the scrotal
raphe and on the penis until the blood flowed in streams. One day he consulted a
physician on account of extensive œdema of the scrotum and the penis.
2. Another man had his scrotum sewn to the sofa-cushion with thick sail-maker’s
needles. He sat for a while in this “fettered” condition, after which the strings were
cut!

All possible cutting and stabbing instruments and burning


substances are used for the gratification of the masochist’s lascivious
love of pain; they have themselves scratched, bitten, pinched,
burned, their hair torn out; they are trodden upon, whipped with
switches or ox-whips; they have themselves “put to the question” in
every possible way in special “torture chambers” or “punishment
rooms.” Such a genuine torture chamber, in the house of a Hamburg
prostitute, was recently described by the public prosecutor, Dr. Ertel,
in Hamburg.[621] Of the dwelling of this prostitute the following
account is given in the testimony of the examining judge:
To the side of the flat towards the bath-room is the door of entrance to the so-
called “black room.”
The walls of this room, lighted by one window only, were covered with a coal-
black material of the nature of calico, and the plaster of the ceiling was similarly
covered; to the middle of the ceiling, proceeding from the centre of a black
rosette, was attached a pulley, consisting of the usual rollers and blocks, made in
this instance of metal, and furnished with a strong twisted cord.
In the dark corner between the window and the wall there stood a peculiar
scaffold, made of roughly hewn planks, consisting of two similar parts placed side
by side; the back of this scaffold was placed against the wall beside the window.
The purpose of this scaffold was not immediately apparent. Seen sideways, the
form of this wooden structure was somewhat like that of a heavy, coarsely-made
armchair; the upper parts of the arms were about the height of a man’s shoulders.
To the framework along the upper edge there were attached five fairly strong iron
rings, which were screwed into the wood. The framework ran on rollers, so that it
could be moved about.
On the wall was hung on a nail a leather girdle with buckles; there was also a
rope about the thickness of the finger, ending in a loop; there were also two dog-
collars, part of a sword-stick, leather reins, and fetters for wrists and ankles, the
former being heavy iron handcuffs.
The window in the wall separating the “black room” from the bathroom, the
glass of which was frosted, was covered with special hangings. The inner side of
the door of the room was also hung with black.
In respect to this “black room” A. testified:
“Z. insisted that one room should be entirely draped with black, as the ‘hall of
judgment.’ He sent me pulleys from Cologne, by which he was to be drawn up and
hanged.[622] This excited him, his face got quite blue, and it made him ‘ready’ for
intercourse. I was afraid that it might kill him, and I only allowed him to have it
done once.
“To the wooden framework in the ‘black room,’ Z. was securely fastened, so that
he had the illusion that he was on the scaffold.”

In all large towns widely diffused masochistic prostitution


subserves the desires of male masochists, and frequently also those
of female masochists. These priestesses of Venus flagellatrix hide
themselves commonly under the cloak of a “masseuse”[623] an
“educationalist,” or “governess,” adding to this professional title
the expressive adjective “severe” or “energetic.” “Wanda” is also
a favourite pseudonym, which corresponds to the masochistic
nickname of “Severin” (the principal character of Sacher-Masoch’s
“Venus im Pelz”).
These women, the “mistresses,” treat their masochistic clients as
“slaves” or “dogs,” and maintain this fiction not only in personal
association, but also in correspondence—masochists are all
passionate correspondents. The relationship also of the “lady” to
her “page” is a favourite one (the so-called “pagism”). The nature
of the relationship is clearly shown in the following original letter of
such a masochist:
“Berlin,
“June 7, 1902.
“Gracious Lady,—
“First of all I must sincerely ask your pardon for daring, most honoured
lady, to write to you. I saw recently a lady with a glorious figure and magnificent
hips enter your house, and I suspect that you are this lady. If you, gracious lady,
desire a servant and a slave, who will blindly obey all your commands, and upon
your order, as a slave, without any will but your own, will perform the basest and
dirtiest services, I should be happy if you would be so gracious as to make me
that slave, if I might visit you from time to time in order to serve you, my strict
mistress and commander. If at any time I should fail to obey you absolutely, you
can treat me most cruelly and chastise me most severely.
“Will you, gracious lady, deign to answer me, your basest servant, and to make
use of the enclosed envelope to tell me if you, this evening, will go for a walk, and
how, and where, in what café you may chance to spend the evening, and if you
will be my strict mistress, and if I may venture to be your slave. Perhaps, most
honoured lady, you could be at the Oranienburger Tor at eight o’clock precisely on
Friday evening, with a rose in your hand. Full of subjection and abasement,
obedient to your strict commands, and slavishly kissing your feet and hands, I am
your most abject servant and your basest slave.”

Such a slave luxuriates voluptuously in the lowest services, in the


most loathsome abasements, such as are indicated sufficiently in the
names “coprolagnia” and “urolagnia.” I have in my possession a
series of letters by masochists full of such things, described with the
utmost particularity, some even in a poetic form (!), which I cannot
print on account of their loathsome contents. A sufficient idea of the
slavery of the masochist is given in the above-mentioned report of
the public prosecutor, Dr. Ertel, in which a “mistress” states:
“When I took my meals he lay either under the table, or in a corner of the
room; I threw him bones, and gave him the remains of my own food. He often
barked, and usually had a dog-collar round his neck, with a chain attached to it.
He had given himself the name of Nero, so this is what I called him. When anyone
wished to come near me without permission, he bit him in the leg; this was the
first step in a slave’s duty. He swept out my room, boiled potatoes, roasted meat
for me, and did other work of the house. He also wanted to be my horse; I had to
ride on him; he carried me in this way from one room to the other.[624] When he
disobeyed me in any way, I had to use the whip. He related to me that formerly he
had corresponded with a music-hall comedian who played woman’s parts, and
subsequently had associated with him, but he got weary of this, and disappeared
for a long time to get free from the man. He told me also that he was accustomed
to make appointments in the Schaarhof (a street in Hamburg in which the
prostitutes visited by the lowest classes of the population live). On Sunday
evenings these women have many visitors, when the workmen have got their
week’s money.
“Often I had to shut him up in a wardrobe, with a chain round his neck,
fastened to the wall of the wardrobe, so short that he could hardly move; the door
of the wardrobe was shut upon him.
“In my flat I had to give him a slave’s dress to wear, in order that he might feel
himself to be fully a slave. I took away all his money, all the keys of his house, of
his office, and of his safe, and returned them to him only after a night and two
days. Z. only does this occasionally, when he is utterly beside himself; often he is
quite reasonable. He does not associate with any decent people; the society in
which he feels happiest is that of whores and other obscure persons; he has
himself said this to me. Even the people who make use of him avoid him in the
street.
“He would also learn to dress hair, and how to paint the face, if I ordered him.
Painted faces stimulate him.
“Once he said to me that I might have another slave; this I did. First of all I had
to bind Z. hand and foot, and to wrap up his head in cotton-wool, in order to give
the new slave the idea that he had been very badly treated, and had been sent to
the hospital. When, later, the new slave came, and I explained everything to him
as Z. had told me to, and led him in to see Z., the new man was very much
surprised to see Z. tied up in this way, became frightened, and soon went home.”

Another prostitute reports:


“I made the acquaintance of Z. in No. 8, Schwiegerstrasse. He has three or four
times had intercourse with me. He had himself whipped by me. Z. once asked me
to fetch a man, which I did. This man got into bed with me, and satisfied himself
manually, without having intercourse with me. Z. on this occasion lay under the
bed: he wished to do so; I believe he had arranged this in order to obtain sexual
excitement in this way. Z. and the other man did not see one another.
“When the other man had gone away, Z. did the most disgusting things.
“When Z. had himself whipped, he first had his hands fastened with iron
handcuffs.”

It would be quite erroneous to assume that in the case of these


masochistic “slaves,” whose human worth has been lowered to the
depths, who seem completely to discard their humanity and to sink
below the level of animals, that we always have to do with
effeminate, degenerated weaklings. No; much more frequently they
are healthy, powerful men, of an imposing appearance and
distinguished demeanour, who find pleasure in playing such
tragic rôles, and who obviously obtain sexual gratification by this
complete reversal of their nature. The “slave” just described was “by
nature tall and stately. His features were energetic and
sympathetic, and he had a large beard. His eyes were clear and
bright. In actions and appearance he was a thoroughly
masculine being.”[625] In Berlin there exist masochists in high
official positions, in appearance and in profession true manly natures
—“supermen”—who only become “slaves” in relation to their
“mistresses.” According to Sacher-Masoch, Germans and Russians
especially are inclined to masochism; but, as a matter of fact, this
tendency is also widely diffused in France and England. Zola
describes such a type in “Nana.”
The slave type is not always completely developed; more
commonly masochism manifests itself in a less marked degree.
There are many and various shades: sometimes there is only a
spiritual abasement, exhibited in apparently trifling procedures and
practices (symbolic masochism). A few authentic cases will serve to
illustrate this—they sound incredible, but are in fact true:
1. A handsome and fine-looking officer, married to a beautiful wife, continually
associates with an elderly, robust washerwoman, with whom he also has sexual
intercourse. Since he refuses to leave this woman, his wife has separated from
him.
2. A State official of high position, fifty years of age, visits a prostitute from time
to time, and puts on her clothing, with corset and stockings, while she wears
man’s clothing. Then for two hours they play cards. At eleven o’clock he lays
himself, still clothed, in her bed, whilst she must lie down naked upon the bed
covering. Nothing else happens. He does not make the least attempt to touch her;
and after a time he goes away, first paying her fifty marks.
3. An active Minister of State (!), now deceased, used often to visit a cocotte,
who had to sit upon him, and then in corpus totum ei minxit. This was sufficient to
give him sexual gratification (urolagnia).
4. An engineer meets a prostitute (who has been previously instructed what to
do) in the street, and asks her if he may go home with her for twenty marks
(shillings). Having reached the home of the girl, he suddenly declares with tears
that he has only five marks with him. The prostitute overwhelms him with abuse,
takes the five marks from him, and then carefully searches his clothing, until
somewhere or other she finds a hundred-mark piece! The moment of the
discovery of this piece of money is precisely the moment when the man has the
sexual orgasm. In answer to his prayers and whining, to his pitiful request that she
shall at least give him back half the money, he only receives scornful abuse.
Finally, she presses one mark into his hand, and gives him his congé. This
procedure is repeated regularly every fortnight—an expensive amusement for a
man who is by no means wealthy. But he is unable to give up this peculiar
passion, which for him is the only way of obtaining sexual gratification.
5. A man of the upper classes, thirty years of age, frequents only prostitutes
with artificial teeth. They must take these teeth out, and he puts them in his
mouth and sucks them. He then stretches himself upon the covering of the bed,
and the prostitute must lay one of her dirty chemises upon his face, whilst he at
the same time holds one of her shoes in each hand. This is for him the critical
moment. To the girl herself during the whole procedure he does not direct a single
glance; for him there exist only the teeth, the chemise, and the shoes. Thus we
have to do with a case of masochism with mental fetishistic associations. The
previously described medieval “cure by disgust” (the exhibition of a dirty chemise)
would in this man have had the opposite effect to that intended.

Masochism is much commoner in men than in women, because


the latter have more command over their sexual impulse, and are
not so readily subordinated and enslaved thereby as are men. The
physiological masochism of woman is of a more spiritual nature. Still,
in women who are very excitable sexually a similar “sexual
obedience” may appear to that which we encounter in men.
Shakespeare, in the “Midsummer-Night’s Dream,” when he makes
Helena feel herself to be Demetrius’ little dog, gives her definite
masochistic characteristics.
Masochistically inclined, also, are women of good position who
play the part of prostitutes, either in brothels or in the streets, such
as have recently been described by d’Estoc in “Paris-Eros”; we may
regard the celebrated Messalina as their prototype. Similarly
disposed are women of good position who have enduring sexual
relationships with men of the lower classes, such as workmen,
coachmen, etc., and who even seek sexual enjoyment with any
casual member of the rabble they may meet in the streets—a
practice of which Lombroso has collected examples. Passive
algolagnia also occurs in women, as is proved by the following letter
of a typical masochist:
“Berlin,
“November 9, 1902.
“Honoured Lady,—
“I allow myself to make the polite inquiry whether you will consent to visit
me once a week, in my dwelling in the Kurfurstendamm, after your reception hour.
I have a peculiar wish from time to time to be chastised in the most severe
and energetic manner, until the blood flows. I am twenty-eight years of age,
and widowed, and have a very large and luxuriant figure. For the flagellation I
would pay fifty marks (shillings). If you accede to my wish, I beg you to describe
how you intend to carry out the chastisement. On what part of the body will you
whip me? In what way should this be clothed, if clothed at all? What instrument
will you use for the whipping? In what position should I receive the whipping?
How many blows should I receive the first time?
“After the sixth blow my voluptuous sensations increase to such a degree that
my whole body trembles with sensuality. Are you yourself inclined to sensuality,
and do you carry out this chastisement from purely voluptuous motives?”

We cannot determine whether in this case homosexuality plays


any part. In my “Contributions to the Etiology of Psychopathia
Sexualis” (vol. ii., p. 183), I have printed a letter of another
unquestionably heterosexual masochist woman to an “energetic”
man.

APPENDIX[626]
A CONTRIBUTION TO THE PSYCHOLOGY OF THE
RUSSIAN REVOLUTION (HISTORY OF THE
DEVELOPMENT OF AN ALGOLAGNISTIC
REVOLUTIONIST).
The author of the following sketch, the Russian anarchist N. K., was arrested in
Warsaw in the early months of 1906. Like all those who at this time were
considered to be members of the revolutionary party, the intention of the
authorities was to shoot him immediately, without any elaborate inquiry, after a
drum-head court-martial.
His demeanour during the shooting of his companions, who preceded him to
death, and also during the court-martial, showed that his psychical individuality
was so profoundly abnormal that the Colonel in command of the firing-party
suspected him to be a psychopath, and on his own authority postponed his
execution pending further examination in the citadel. While imprisoned K. wrote
his reminiscences, which are here given word for word and without comment:

I.
My parents were opposite elements: my father, strong, coarse, brutal, egotistic,
material to excess; my mother, suffering, delicate, sensitive, ethereal. From such a
cross, a masochistic character must necessarily be produced. My father brought
me up with storms, chastisements, and fear; my mother counteracted all this with
caresses, kisses, and tears.... I trembled with secret anxiety and exulted
inwardly at the same moment when my father stretched me across his knees. As
soon as the punishment was over, he immediately proceeded to box someone’s
ears—anyone’s, a footman’s, a maid’s, anyone’s. I ran with a smarting posterior to
my mother. By her first my injuries were inspected, then I was cried over,
embraced, kissed, and finally laughed at and with. This scene repeated itself at
irregular intervals. To these years belong my first memory of the masochistic
principle of life. This was based upon the following observations:
All my companions, boys and girls alike, endeavoured to play tricks on one
another; to tell tales of one another to their parents, tales true and false; in every
way to cause suffering, in order then, by redoubled love, to make all right again.
On the other hand, I noticed that no child loved another unless it was tormented
by that other. Those who did not torment one another were mutually indifferent.
This mutual tormenting and being tormented must therefore, in the nature of
things, produce a certain charm, gives rise to a pleasure. This pleasure
consisted in increasing, mentally realizing, sympathizing with, the pain of
another. This is not sadism—generally speaking, sadism does not exist—it is only
refined masochism; for we prepare pains in order to sympathize with them—
that is, in order that we may free ourselves.
I especially enjoyed teasing girls, destroying their toys, tearing their dolls to
pieces, dirtying their clothing, etc. When, thereupon, they wept bitterly, I fought
against their tears, until finally they were consoled. Then I went close to them,
embraced them, caressed them, kissed them, and cried with sympathy. What pain
and what pleasure did I experience when they pushed me away, struck me, and
spat in my face! I bought them once more finer toys, and was so happy when
their tears gave place to laughter!
How often I told false tales of other children to their parents, in order to be able
to sympathize with the mental pain of an undeserved chastisement! But I was no
exception in this, because most of my playmates were the same. I remember how
a girl of eleven calumniated a boy of twelve: she declared that he had put his
hand on her private parts when she was out walking! The happy, poor lad was
frightfully beaten at school and at home. All the children baited him, despised him,
and avoided him like the plague.... He became quite afraid of his fellows.
What did I live through at that time?
Moody and spiteful, he lay under a tree; the girl who had told this false tale
about him softly drew near, stood by him, and with a pleading voice called his
name. Furiously he jumped to his feet, and wished to run away; but she seized his
hand, fell upon her knees, and begged for his forgiveness. It was useless for him
to abuse her, to strike her, and to tread upon her toes. She threw her arms round
him, cried as if her heart was broken, and spoke tenderly to him for so long a
time, until at last he sat down beside her, and allowed himself to be caressed.
Thus they sat together for a long time, and wept and laughed and wept. Suddenly
she seized his hand and pressed it violently between her thighs....
This contact formed the last link of a long logical chain....
These were the facts which first made me feel instinctively how, like every
fundamental thing—everything which is of a primeval character: primeval force,
primeval matter, primeval impulse, etc.—all represent the union of two extremes;
the primeval impulse “love” can also be the coalescence of two opposites. These
two opposites in this case are pleasure and pain; as in the case of electricity we
have the union of the two opposites, positive and negative electricity; in the case
of magnetism, we have the union of positive and negative magnetism; in the case
of the atom, the positive and negative ion; in the case of sex, man and woman,
etc.

II.
My years of school and University life were spent at St. Petersburg.
Tempestuously I threw myself upon simple physical “love” (!), upon the orgies,
upon all the varieties, of physical love. Bodily-sexual masochism, with all its
artificial sensual charms, was a cup which I drained to the dregs; but I was never
able to explain to myself why humanity was satisfied with so crude a definition of
the idea of “masochism.” Sexual masochism is indeed one of the most obvious
facts of life. But the same is true also of sexual love; and yet we do not maintain
that love is only sexual impulse.
I passed beyond this physical masochism; it was for me a necessary phase of
development. The spiritual element within me began to sway my
existence. At this time I learned to love a girl of a wonderful character. She loved
me to a similar degree of insanity.
Had I been a beggar or a tramp, she would have followed me through the
streets. She would have accompanied me to forced labour in Kara, Kamtchatka, or
Saghalien. For me she would also have mounted the scaffold; to save me she
would even have become a prostitute. It was a blessedness to love her and to be
loved by her.
How can we wonder that in conformity with this interminable love
accompanying sorrows should also extend into infinity, and ultimately lead to a
catastrophe?
Every night we slept together, although for months at a time we did not have
sexual intercourse; we embraced one another so closely and slept so gently!...
To separate from one another only for a few hours was a torment. If I went out
alone, I must tell her the precise moment at which she might expect me to return.
If I remained away a quarter of an hour longer, Mascha at once pictured to herself
that I had been run over by a tram, that I had fallen down in an epileptic fit, that I
had suddenly become insane and jumped into the Neva, or that some other
disaster had befallen to me. Thus she stood continually at the window, in order to
see what was passing in the street. If anyone came up to our floor, she ran quickly
to see who it was. If it was not I, then she felt horrible anxiety. When at length I
came, she stood waiting for me in the doorway, laughing and crying at the same
time. Then there followed embraces and kisses as if I had returned from a journey
to the North Pole; but also reproaches, such as, “You do not love me at all; if you
did you would not torture me so! You know how anxious I always am about you
when you are away!”
Gradually I began to understand this condition, as an inevitable
consequence of the masochistic principle of love.
This martyrdom of the soul, which lovers prepare for themselves in the
unceasing dread of losing one another, or of losing one another’s love, is
intimately connected with the very nature of love. Without anxiety of
this kind, love would be unthinkable. He who loves must continually
torment himself with this anxiety; and the stronger the love, the greater
is this torment. When the torment is increased by the other’s
participation in it, the mutual love is also increased thereby.
This necessity we also felt, and we resolved to procreate an illegitimate child.
What this step meant to us—members of leading families—can readily be
understood; but we proudly resolved to defy society at large, in order to
consecrate our love by the sorrows which this would entail.

III.
As soon as Mascha became pregnant, I felt an irresistible impulse to increase
our mutual torments! To increase them!! To increase them!!! For our love did not
appear to me sufficiently great, nor yet sufficiently worthy, nor yet sufficiently holy,
for us to crystallize ourselves in a new living being.
This idea racked me continually. In vain I sought to convince myself that our
love was a million times greater than the love of ordinary mortals, that it was
unique!... Again and again my conscience said to me: “How can you use for
yourself the measuring rule of ordinary men, even if they are the leaders of men?
You are the conscious masochist! Your ideals must be suited to this fact! Is it
anything so much out of the common to have an illegitimate child? You must
increase your sorrows! Increase them!!”
(He proceeds to describe how in every possible way he tormented his beloved.)
At length, in consequence of my continued vexation, Mascha became as nervous
as I was myself.... Now she really began to take everything perversely.
“Leave me in peace! It is your fault! You are driving me quite out of my mind!!”
On account of the most trifling matters we became furious with rage, mutually
making one another more wretched and more bitter. Ten, twenty times a day, we
stood facing one another, leaning forwards, shaking with wrath, our mouths
gaping with anger, our eyes sparkling, our fingers widely separated, like tigers
ready to spring; many times she struck me in the face or spat at me!
“Oh, you wretch! How I hate you!!! I should like—I should like——!”
Then we said to one another calmly and quietly that we did not suit one
another; that we had been deceived; that everything was now at an end; we
begged one another for forgiveness, and separated.
Soon came the pangs of conscience, the question, “Who is to blame?” Now the
pains began: “What have I done? It is impossible that it can be so; I will beg her
forgiveness upon my knees. She must be mine again—must be, must be!”
“Oh, love, love! How interminable is your pain!”
Now I began with nervous haste to say to myself, “Where will she be? With
Katja? Up! Go to her and ask her!”
“Has Mascha been here?”
“Yes—she has just gone away!”
“Did she not say where she was going?”
“No!... Have you quarrelled once more?”
“H’m!... A little, but it was my fault!... I must find her!... Good-bye!”
At the house of A, B, C, and D she was not to be found. Is it possible that in her
pain——? No, no! Not that! Not that!!
This pulsed in my temples, whilst I ran up and down the stairs!
Six o’clock! now she will go out walking on the Newsky-Prospekt!!...
At last I reach the Newsky-Prospekt! I rush up and down looking for her! Is that
she? No! Or there? It is not she! That must be she? No—yes—no—yes, yes!... It is
she.... Now walk a little more slowly.... Now she sees me.... She turns as if to pass
by on the other side.... She changes her mind and stays on this side....
“Have you been out walking long?”...
Mascha lies in my arms. We cry and laugh—cry and laugh.... Never, never, never
again!!... Forgive, forgive!!... We embrace one another, press one another, kiss one
another, as if we could be absorbed into one another.... We abuse one another,
pull one another’s hair, and playfully box one another’s ears.... Then we rub our
cheeks together, and give one another the maddest pet names....
Oh, paradise of love! Why did I quarrel with my fate which imposed upon me
such unheard-of torments?... Nothing else could have brought me such
blessedness as this!!
Oh, fate! More, more, still more martyrdom!... In this way let my love grow!

IV.
Our life together became continually more intolerable, and yet we could not
bear to be away from one another a single hour. A terrible fate chained us
together, and threw us into the maelstrom of this furious impulse, irresistible in its
elemental force. To tear ourselves apart was rendered impossible by the fetters
that chained us together.
Continually more frightful, continually more insane, became our scenes, and the
love-eruptions which broke out from time to time.
(After mutual spiritual torments, becoming ever worse and worse, K. begs his
beloved to procure abortion!)
She wept quietly, then kissed me and went out....
The key grated in the lock....
“Mascha! Mascha! For God’s sake! Mascha! What are you going to do?...”
I shook the door like a madman.... It would not give way.... I tore open the
window.... “Help! Help!”... The door was burst open.... Break open Mascha’s
door!... It was quickly forced.... She lies there.... Dead.... Poison....

V.
Finally—after weeks—I was once more somewhat calmer, and was able to think
a little. I had so utterly lost all power that I was only able to get from my bed to
the sofa, or back again, with assistance. They had been afraid that I should not
get over it at all.... Week after week to endure the most shattering, superhuman
sorrows, to oscillate between death and madness!...
But superhuman love had also been mine! The statue of Saïs had been unveiled
to me!... I had quaffed the cup of love to the last dregs!... But he only will have
had this experience who has first drunk to the dregs the draught of sorrow!...
Oh, short-sighted world, which will call the murder of Mascha “sadism”!... Had
not her pains cut twice as deeply into my own heart? Has not my soul been
convulsed by her torment?... I wished only to torture myself!... Am I to blame
that it was only possible to do so through her martyrdom?... Has not she shared
also all my superearthly blisses?... He who has experienced this does not regret—
even if he must pay double the price in sorrows!!
Is not that “masochism”?
Have you who wished to pass judgment on me learned that? No! Who will set
up to be a judge of a case of which he knows nothing?
Oh, crude psychology, which teaches that out of an inhuman impulse—out of
cruelty—we commit “crimes” on those nearest to us! Only from a purely human
impulse—from “love”—do we do to the nearest to us what you call “crimes,” in
order that he may share that unnamable happiness which we ourselves feel. Thus
the influences which move us are purely ethical.
Do you believe that we only are masochists? Or do you believe that those only
are masochists who have themselves trodden on by a prostitute, have had their
ears boxed, have been whipped, befouled, and have let the prostitute spit in their
faces?
Oh, idiots! I say to you all love is masochistic, and all which leads to it is
associated with it, or results from it, bears the imprint “pleasure and pain.”
Nature never fails. Who, then, believes that it was caprice, chance, or irony, on
Nature’s part, when she associated love with so much torment?
Who does not think of all the tragedies of unhappy love, with its murders and
suicides, all its physical and spiritual martyrdom, which every day brings to us?
Who does not think of the tragedy of sexual love which is offered to us in the
hospitals? all the hundreds of thousands who have to pay for the licentiousness
which results from sexual lust—all the tabetics, syphilitics, general paralytics, etc.?
Who does not remember the torments which the sexually perverse have brought
on themselves and on humanity? All the lust-murders! And all the punitive
measures? The lust-murders which we commit—to prevent lust-murders!...
Who does not think of the torments of pregnancy? its risks of life and death?
Are all these mistakes of Nature? No! No!! The accompaniment of pleasure by
pain must have some definite purpose. This purpose is: That pleasure, without
its opposite, pain, would not be perceptible, would be unthinkable,
would be inconceivable—just as cold could not be apparent to our
consciousness without heat, or light without darkness. Thus pleasure, in
the absence of pain, would not be perceived as pleasure. Therefore, by
increase of pain, pleasure becomes of greater value, for the greater the
contrast the more readily do we perceive it.
“Masochism is thus a natural law.”
The more fully it is developed in any individual, the higher, the more
superhuman is that person.

VI.
Through the recognition of the masochistic natural law, I passed into a peculiar
condition. Individual love and sorrow no longer made any particular impression on
me. I began to observe masochism in the life and work of Nature, in the history of
humanity, in social life, and in civilization.
Is not the great developmental principle of Nature based upon this—that the
existence and progress of the species is dependent upon pressure exercised on it
by its environment? The more difficult the conditions of existence, the harder the
pressure of the environment, the more suffering the species has to bear, the
stronger must be the reaction against these, the more strongly will the powers
and capacities of that species become active, and by this the species will be
elevated to a higher level.
“Thus suffering is the driving force of Nature. Nature is therefore
masochistic!”
Within the species itself the same law holds. Within the “human” species have
not those varieties developed to the highest which have had to overcome the
hardest environment? Those who by nature have been troubled with the greatest
difficulties in providing for their food-supply? Those who have suffered most?
Is not the existence of the living being dependent upon the “struggle for
existence,” upon the mutual hostility of the species, striving for one another’s
annihilation?
It is a characteristic trait of human nature that all religions are based upon the
same fundamental principle: “Only by suffering canst thou become happy!”
Is not this true masochism, when humanity, by means of modern science, has
also been robbed of the hope of a beyond, of the hope for eternity and
blessedness, and is offered nothing in its place? Look at universal history!
Was not the birth of that great idea associated with frightful sufferings, with the
influence of fire and sword, blood and death? Has not humanity crucified its
greatest benefactors? Has it not rewarded them with the gallows, the torture-
chamber, the wheel, the stake, the prison, and the asylum?
And all out of love for humanity!
All the persecutions of Christians and Jews, the inquisitions and burnings of
heretics, witch-trials, the religious sorrows of all times—all were outflows of the
love for humanity. Their aim was to safeguard mankind from the robbery of its
happiness by heresy!
The love of humanity begat our Neros, our Torquemadas, our Ivans the Terrible,
and Schdanows!
Why did these men torture other men?... In order themselves to realize in
imagination the others’ torments, to sympathize with them, to feel with them. In
order in their own spirit to endure these martyrdoms; that is to say, to torture
themselves with the representation of the pain of another.... “Thus in its
motives sadism is nothing else than masochism.”
The love of humanity erected the cross of Christ, lighted the faggots with
which Huss and Bruno wore burned, tortured Thomas Münzer, stabbed Marat,
decapitated Hebert, and built the gallows of Arad, St. Petersburg, Chicago, etc.!
The love of humanity built the Bastille, the Tower of London, the Spielberg,
Blackwell’s Island, and the Schlüsselburg, built the torture-chambers of the
Inquisition, constructed the medieval penal system, and those of Montjuich, Alcalla
del Valle, Borissoglebsk, and many others.
Remarkable! That precisely your “love of humanity” was the most cruel
tormentor, the most inexorable executioner, the most bloodthirsty butcher of men,
and the greatest of all criminals.
Do you not see in all this the wise rule of the masochistic principle?
That it was only persecution which diffused these ideas? All the progress
which man makes in civilization must be paid for by means of enormous
sacrifice. The superhuman sorrows of millions of slaves created the civilization of
antiquity—the Phœnician, the Babylonian, the Persian, the Assyrian, the Greek,
and the Roman! (With regard to this often disputed fact, see Mommsen: “In
comparison with the sufferings of the slaves of antiquity, all the sufferings of
modern negro slaves are simply a drop in the ocean!”)
Indian civilization is the product of the most horrible suppression and plunder
of the lower castes by the higher. The soil of the Southern States of America was
cultivated through being manured with the sweat, blood, and bones of negro
slaves.
The soil of Europe, again, was made fertile by the sufferings of slaves and serfs,
and so on!
Amid the most horrible birth-pangs, amid the slave rebellions, peasant wars,
and revolutions, in the eighteenth, nineteenth, and twentieth centuries, mankind
was enabled to throw off the shell of the feudal system. Therewith capitalism was
born. This newest form of civilization, once more, is based upon horrible
plundering, oppression, and misery of millions and millions of proletarians.
What a devastation of humanity results from the acquirements of civilization in
respect of engineering and the practical arts!... Every invention and discovery
demands its victims!...
How often have chemists been destroyed by an explosion in the creation of new
compounds, or killed by the development of poisonous vapours!
Count the engineers who have been sacrificed to their profession, or
bacteriologists who have been killed through infection in the study of zymotic
diseases!
Count all the victims of professional diseases, of tuberculosis, phosphorus
necrosis, lead poisoning, mercurial poisoning, etc.!... Count all those who have
fallen from scaffoldings, all the sailors who have been drowned, all the railway
employees who have been run over, all the factory hands who have been torn to
pieces by machinery, all those who have been destroyed in mines by explosions,
etc.!
Think of the hunger and misery of the widows and children of these victims of
industry and science, of the loss of work and other social injuries resulting from
capitalism!
The rebellion of the victims of this system, again, gives rise to the class war,
with new tortures, new sufferings!... In order ultimately, by the creation of a new
social system in the future, to free mankind from these sufferings!... People
believe it! But that is nonsense! The sufferings will only assume a new form, and
will increase!!
Do you, then, believe that all the miseries of mankind at the present time have
been the result only of chance, not of foresight?
Oh, no! These sufferings were only the stimulus which drove mankind forward
to new construction, to greater progress, in order to avoid suffering!... Progress
brought new suffering, and so on.
“Thus suffering is the civilizing factor of mankind! To free mankind
from suffering would mean to rob mankind of civilization.”
Can we represent to ourselves a life of complete satisfaction?
No! Without suffering, the needs would be wanting which alone provide the
stimulus to progress!... Without suffering, we should also be without enjoyment.
For everything reaches our consciousness only by means of its opposite.
“To free us from torment means to rob us of pleasure.... But then we
should no longer have any interest in life!”
“Civilization is a union, a hermaphrodite structure, of pleasure and
pain—that is, masochism!!... The progress of mankind is only possible by
means of the masochistic principle.”
Oh, cruel-sweet philosophy of Golgotha!! Eternally shalt thou remain
the Moira and Kismet of humanity!!!

VII.
“Always the more, always the better of your kind shall perish, for it shall always
be worse for you. So only—so only—does man grow upwards” (Nietzsche,
“Zarathustra,” ii., p. 126).

Magnificent Nietzsche!
Now first do I grasp your “superman”!... Now I share your hatred of the every
day and the average!
Away with the philistine cowardice which says, “Above all, do not go too far!...
Do everything with moderation and for a definite end!... Never go too far, and
never fall into extremes!”...
No!... Go forward with courage into the extreme!... Only slothfulness,
comfortableness, and cowardice are afraid of a Turkish bath, with the subsequent
cold douche!
But how the body softens under this laisser faire et laisser passer, how it loses
its power of resistance, accumulates substances which are superfluous, and
therefore harmful! In the same way that part of humanity which follows this
device will perish from the philistine disease named “moderation”!
Let mankind get into its Turkish bath—and then get under the cold douche!
Thus it will be steeled, rejuvenated, and invigorated! Thus it will be freed from
superfluous matters!
“Let things be made continually worse and harder for mankind, then the
reaction will step in and drive them forward!”
According to this device I acted henceforward. To increase pain, in order that
pleasure might become greater!
An immeasurable love for humanity took possession of me now that I had at
length attained the point of view which so perfectly harmonized with my
individuality.... I myself became equivalent to humanity; I felt the heart-beat
of millions in myself. Their contradictory feelings were united in my own person. I
felt equally capitalist and proletarian; equally orthodox Christian and Catholic, Jew
and atheist; equally man and woman.
All the sorrows and joys in humanity I felt in myself, and I plunged myself in
them to the depths.
I wished to experience them all in my own spirit.... I studied universal history,
but with what perception!... I did not confine myself to facts, but I turned to the
persons of those who were acting; I represented to myself all the misery of the
crowd and the thought of the crowd.
What intolerable pain all these provided for me! How I began to love glorious
humanity which suffered all that!
Now the moment had come! Now was the time quickly to plunge into the
extreme of life!... To plunge into all the sorrows of the millions, and to increase
them tenfold, a hundredfold, a thousandfold! To drink the voluptuous sensation
which all experience in the paroxysm of frenzy, and thus to become thoroughly
man!!

VIII.
From now onwards I threw myself with enthusiasm into the arms of the most
extreme section of the anarchist movement. I gave up the whole of my property
to the support of newspapers, to the publication of pamphlets, to the support of
agitators, and so on. But, at the same time, I remained in touch with the “upper
ten thousand.” I travelled through the principal countries of Europe and America,
everywhere forming associations, everywhere developing amid the receptive
element of the movement my most radical tendencies—in most cases with good
result.
(He now describes in detail his propagandist destructive activity, especially in
Spain.)
IX.
Meanwhile, in my home in Eastern Europe the revolutionary tendency was
continually gaining force; anarchism also became more influential. I felt that there
was the proper field for my further activity.
Henceforward I lived partly in Paris and partly in Genf and Zürich, in order from
these places to guide the movement in my direction.
Among my own countrymen I soon found adherents to whom nothing seemed
too fantastic, nothing too radical.
Soon we were in possession of a small printing-office, with the aid of which we
issued leaflets, pamphlets, and newspapers.
These generally contained the same ideas: the working classes should not
bother themselves with political demands, such as “universal suffrage,” “individual
liberty,” and the like. For, even if all these were to be gained, social oppression and
exploitation would remain unaltered: these are what they feel most deeply, and
from these evils all the others result. The working classes should rather aim at the
“social revolution,” they should undertake the “expropriation of the expropriators.”
In the newspapers and pamphlets we proved in a scientific manner the justice
of all forms of individual expropriation—robbery with violence, theft, extortion,
etc.; we conducted an attack on property; we demanded the destruction of
wealth, whether in private hands or in the hands of the State, in order that its
possession might be more easily gained.
When the war between Japan and Russia broke out, we all felt that the time for
increased activity had now arrived—most of us moved to Poland, Lithuania, or
Bessarabia. A few only remained in Switzerland, in order to keep a grip upon the
organization in these parts.

X.
For me there now began a period of frightful sufferings.... With frenzied haste, I
seized all the possible news from the seat of war; greedily I consulted the reports
of great battles lasting for entire weeks; I read of the dreadful storming of Port
Arthur. All the horrible details passed plainly before my eyes.
All the frightful tortures of the masses I represented in my imagination. I saw
how they stood in battle day after day; how they had lost consciousness in
consequence of hunger and thirst and fatigue, and so went on fighting as mere
automata. Ultimately they even forgot to take nourishment, to drink, and to rest
—they actually did not any longer understand that they could free themselves
from their torture of hunger and thirst, could save their lives, by eating and
drinking—so they went on in a frenzy until they fell.
I was no longer capable of doing anything else than, with a swimming head,
with temples pulsating with fever, studying war reports. Day and night these
pictures were before me. Oh, if I could only stand with them in this hell!... How I
loved them, these people who were capable of such grand actions!... I wished to
call out to them: “Be embraced, O millions! Receive the kiss of the whole world!”...
Yes, these are the true civilized nations!... To what progress must these horrible
sufferings give rise? What a future for mankind! What joys to come!

XI.
Meanwhile the whole of my property had been used up in the revolutionary
movement. The little money that was still available, that we were still able to
scrape together here and there, was necessarily used for party purposes. I
therefore suffered the most horrible poverty—now in Warsaw, now in Lodz,
Bialystok, Kiew, or Odessa. ... Most of our adherents were among the poor Jewish
quarters of these towns.
My earnings consisted of occasional work and occasional theft. When there was
nothing doing in either of these ways, I moved on with a few of my own kind from
one of our supporters to another.... These people divided with us the little they
had.
It was a voluptuous joy to me, finally, to plunge into the uttermost depths of
misery which it is possible to reach.
It was an enormous victory to be able to live in such surroundings. What
glorious torments I suffered, until I had overcome the disgust and loathing which
the whole environment produced in me! Everywhere we were amidst horrible dirt.
Notwithstanding all the dirt and misery in which I saw these people wallowing—
or, precisely, because of these things—I began to love them as hitherto I had
loved no others.... When they told me of the frightful persecutions which their
people had endured as no other had done, then I experienced an unnamable
yearning to be one of them; then I wondered at the enormous power with which,
notwithstanding all persecutions, amidst the most frightful misery which I saw
around me, yet they were able to be the most ardent revolutionists.

XII.
Everywhere now the revolution was in flood. We developed a feverish activity in
all our centres.... At first we had no very great influence, but our emissaries were
actively at work everywhere, in order to convert our movement from a political
one to a social one, or at least to an economic one.
For this purpose we had provided a secret printing-press in Warsaw, where we
prepared the necessary leaflets. They were written by a student, who was a
genius in this speciality. No one understood as well as he how to appeal to the
instincts of the crowd. The moving power of his style was incomparable.... He put
the facts side by side, illuminated them from the side that seemed to him most
suitable, and then drew his conclusions, which, in their simple convincing logic,
seemed irresistible. Then he turned to inflame fanaticism, reminded us how, then
and there, and there, and there, so many victims had been sacrificed to the same
idea; how, there and elsewhere, on the barricades men had died for it, and had
rather rotted in prison than abandon their just demands. In this way he always
succeeded in moving the crowd.
It was very efficacious, also, to remind the people of all the little tricks which
had been played upon them by the manufacturers and by the authorities; he drew
their attention to the fact how they, who had created everything, were actually not
recognized as human beings, far less as human beings with equal rights.... These
proofs most readily infuriated the proletarians to frenzy, and in some places, as in
Lagonsk, Tiflis, and Baku, we succeeded in turning the movement in the economic
direction. It was a great advantage that we had associates everywhere, and we
were quickly notified when the rain was likely to begin, so that we could speedily
move to another place.
In Tiflis the affair did not go as I wished; here the people were only too
practical.... They began neither to strike, nor to demolish, nor to attack the
soldiers.... No.... They simply said: “So much wages do we want; then we shall
work only for such a time; and no commodity must rise in price.... Every one who
will not take part with us we shall shoot.”... All the inhabitants joined them.... After
a short time all this came to nothing.
Baku was more pleasing to me.... Here the petroleum-borers made their
demands, and as these were not agreed to within two days, they set fire to 140
wells.... Then, to my great regret, the proprietors agreed to everything which had
been demanded. I had been so inhumanly glad to see my life-ideal fulfilled. It
seemed as if the situation was going to be such as I had often imagined....
A long time already had the religious and racial hatred between the Armenians
and the Tartars been inflamed to the uttermost. In the whole of the Caucasus
there was a bubbling as if in a witch’s cauldron.... Naturally, I remained in Baku, in
order to be ready for what I hoped would happen there.
The whole population was at the uttermost point of tension; everything seemed
painfully uncertain; would the dance begin or not?... I felt that it would only be
necessary to throw a grain of sand into machine, and in an instant it would lead to
an avalanche.... I was possessed by a frightful excitement; this mental tension was
intolerable.... From minute to minute the horrible anxiety of the undetermined
increased in me, and the hellish desire still burned within me; I longed that it
might start at this very minute, so that, at last, my nerve-destroying tension might
be relieved.
Then I became possessed with a demoniacal idea: one only needed to give the
slightest little push at the right place, and the storm would break.
Inwardly I shuddered at the idea of the horrible consequences; and yet
something within me drove me forward with an irresistible force—finally, to close
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