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Los Cabos &

Baja
1st Edition

by Lynne Bairstow

Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s:

“Amazingly easy to use. Very portable, very complete.”
—Booklist

“Detailed, accurate, and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.”

—Glamour Magazine

“Hotel information is close to encyclopedic.”

—Des Moines Sunday Register

“Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place.”
—Knight Ridder Newspapers
01_58975x ffirs.qxd 9/27/05 12:36 AM Page ii
01_58975x ffirs.qxd 9/27/05 12:36 AM Page i

Los Cabos &

Baja
1st Edition

by Lynne Bairstow

Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s:

“Amazingly easy to use. Very portable, very complete.”
—Booklist

“Detailed, accurate, and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.”

—Glamour Magazine

“Hotel information is close to encyclopedic.”

—Des Moines Sunday Register

“Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place.”
—Knight Ridder Newspapers
01_58975x ffirs.qxd 9/27/05 12:36 AM Page ii

Published by:

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ISBN-13: 978-0-7645-8975-1
ISBN-10: 0-7645-8975-X
Editor: Kendra L. Falkenstein and Marc Nadeau
Production Editor: Suzanna R. Thompson
Cartographer: Tim Lohnes
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Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services
Front cover photo: Kayaking toward a natural arch
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5 4 3 2 1
02_58975x ftoc.qxd 9/27/05 12:31 AM Page iii

Contents
List of Maps v

1 The Best of Los Cabos & Baja 1

1 The Most Unforgettable Travel 6 The Best Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
Experiences . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1 7 The Hottest Nightlife . . . . . . . . . . . .6
2 The Best Beach Vacations . . . . . . . . .2 8 The Most Luxurious Hotels . . . . . . . .7
3 The Best Museums . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3 9 The Best Budget Inns . . . . . . . . . . . .8
4 The Best Outdoor Adventures/ 10 The Best Unique Inns . . . . . . . . . . . .8
Active Vacations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3
11 The Best Dining Experiences . . . . . . .9
5 The Best Places to Get Away
from It All . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5

2 Planning Your Trip to Los Cabos & Baja 11

1 Baja California at a Glance . . . . . . .11 7 Specialized Travel Resources . . . . . .22
2 Visitor Information . . . . . . . . . . . . .12 8 Planning Your Trip Online . . . . . . . .26
3 Entry Requirements & Customs . . . .13 9 Getting There . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28
A Few Words on Prices See Baja by Boat: Cruising
in Mexico . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14 the Sea of Cortez . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30
4 Money . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14 10 The Active Traveler . . . . . . . . . . . . .31
5 When to Go . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17 11 Tips on Accommodations . . . . . . . .33
Baja Calendar of Events . . . . . . . . .17 12 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33
6 Health & Safety . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19 13 Recommended Books & Films . . . . .36
Treating & Avoiding Digestive Fast Facts: Baja California . . . . . . .38
Trouble . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21

3 Suggested Los Cabos & Baja Itineraries 43

1 Northern Baja in 1 Week . . . . . . . .43 4 A Wine Lover’s Long Weekend
2 Mid-Baja in 1 Week . . . . . . . . . . . .46 in Baja . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48
3 Southern Baja in 1 Week . . . . . . . .47

4 Los Cabos 49
1 San José del Cabo . . . . . . . . . . . . .50 The Los Cabos Spa Experience . . . .64
Fast Facts: San José del Cabo . . . . .52 3 Cabo San Lucas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .66
2 The Corridor: Between Fast Facts: Cabo San Lucas . . . . . . .69
the Two Cabos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .61
02_58975x ftoc.qxd 9/27/05 12:31 AM Page iv

iv CONTENTS

The Lowdown on Golf in Cabo . . . .74 5 Todos Santos: A Creative Oasis . . . .87
4 North from Los Cabos . . . . . . . . . .85

5 La Paz: Peaceful Port Town 91

1 Essentials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .91 3 A Break from the Beaches:
Taking Your Car to the Exploring La Paz . . . . . . . . . . . . .101
Mainland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .92 4 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .103
Fast Facts: La Paz . . . . . . . . . . . . .95 5 Where to Stay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .103
2 Beaches & Outdoor Activities . . . . .96 6 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .105
La Paz’s Top Dive Spots . . . . . . . . .98 7 La Paz After Dark . . . . . . . . . . . . .106

6 Mid-Baja: Loreto, Mulegé & Santa Rosalía 107

1 Loreto & the Offshore Islands . . . .107 Camping Bahía Concepción . . . . .131
Fast Facts: Loreto . . . . . . . . . . . . .110 3 A Side Trip from Mulegé:
A Visit to Isla del Carmen . . . . . . .114 Santa Rosalía . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .133
Baja’s Cave Paintings: An 4 Whale-Watching in Baja:
Exploration of the Mysterious . . . .116 A Primer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .136
2 Mulegé: Oasis in the Desert . . . . .123 The Bloody History of a Whale-
Watching Haven . . . . . . . . . . . . .138
Fast Facts: Mulegé . . . . . . . . . . . .125

7 Northern Baja: Tijuana, Rosarito Beach & Ensenada 139

1 Tijuana: Bawdy Border Town . . . . .139 3 En Route from Rosarito
Fast Facts: Tijuana . . . . . . . . . . . .145 to Ensenada . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .159
First Crush: The Annual Harvest Surfing, Northern Baja Style . . . . .162
Festival . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .147 4 Ensenada: Port of Call . . . . . . . . .164
A Northern Baja Spa Diving with Great White
Sanctuary . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .155 Sharks in Baja . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .171
2 Rosarito Beach & Beyond:
Baja’s First Beach Resorts . . . . . . .156

Appendix A: Baja in Depth 177

1 The Land & Its People . . . . . . . . . .178 3 Art & Architecture 101 . . . . . . . . .188
2 A Look at Mexico’s Past . . . . . . . .180 4 Religion, Myth & Folklore . . . . . . .190
Dateline . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .180
02_58975x ftoc.qxd 9/27/05 12:31 AM Page v

CONTENTS v

Appendix B: Useful Terms & Phrases & a Guide

to Mexico’s Food & Drink 191
1 Basic Vocabulary . . . . . . . . . . . . .191 What’s Cooking in Baja . . . . . . . .198
2 Menu Glossary . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .195 4 Drinks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .200
3 Food . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .197

Index 201
General Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .201 Restaurant Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . .211
Accommodations Index . . . . . . . . .210

List of Maps

Suggested Los Cabos & Baja The Loreto Area 113

Itineraries 45 Downtown Loreto 115
San José del Cabo 51 Mulegé & Santa Rosalía Areas 125
The Two Cabos & the Corridor 62 Downtown Mulegé 127
Cabo San Lucas 67 Downtown Santa Rosalía 135
East Cape 86 The Upper Baja Peninsula 141
Todos Santos 89 Tijuana 143
La Paz Area 93 Rosarito Beach 157
Downtown La Paz 102 Ensenada 165
The Lower Baja Peninsula 109 Wine Country 173
03_58975x flast.qxd 9/27/05 12:32 AM Page vi

This book is dedicated to my many friends in Mexico who, through sharing their
insights, anecdotes, knowledge, and explorations of Mexico, have shared their love
of this country. In particular, Ricardo, Silver, Carlos, Claudia, and Alejandra have
shared with me and have shown me what a magical place Mexico is, and how
much more I have to discover and enjoy.

Acknowledgments
Many thanks to the people who helped me gather the information, tips, and treasures that have
made their way into this book. I am especially grateful for the assistance of Alejandra Macedo,
my friend and research assistant, whose tireless work ensured that the information in this book
is correct and that no grain of sand was left unturned in seeking out the fun there is to have in
Los Cabos and Baja.
—Lynne Bairstow

About the Author

For Lynne Bairstow, Mexico has become more home to her than her native United States.
After exploring the country and living in Puerto Vallarta for most of the past 14 years, she’s
developed a true love of Mexico and its complex, colorful culture. Her local friends now claim
she has patas saladas—a term translated as “salty feet” and which means that she has become a
true Vallarta local. Her travel articles on Mexico have been published in the New York Times,
the San Francisco Chronicle, the Los Angeles Times, Private Air, Luxury Living, and the Mexicana
and Alaska Airlines in-flight magazines. In 2000, Lynne was awarded the Pluma de Plata, an
honor granted by the Mexican government to foreign writers, for her work with the Frommer’s
guide to Mexico.
03_58975x flast.qxd 9/27/05 12:32 AM Page vii

An Invitation to the Reader

In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants, shops, and
more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share the information
with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed with a recommenda-
tion, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to:
Frommer’s Los Cabos & Baja, 1st Edition
Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774

An Additional Note
Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time—and this is especially
true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirmation when making
your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held responsible for the experi-
ences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us, however, so we encourage you to
stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a close eye on cameras, purses, and wallets,
all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets.

Other Great Guides for Your Trip:

Frommer’s Mexico
Frommer’s Cancún, Cozumel & the Yucatán
Frommer’s Portable Acapulco, Ixtapa & Zihuatanejo
Frommer’s Portable Puerto Vallarta, Manzanillo & Guadalajara
Mexico’s Beach Resorts For Dummies
Cancún and the Yucatán For Dummies
The Unofficial Guide to Mexico’s Best Beach Resorts
03_58975x flast.qxd 9/27/05 12:32 AM Page viii

Frommer’s Star Ratings, Icons & Abbreviations

Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality, value,
service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating system. In country, state, and regional
guides, we also rate towns and regions to help you narrow down your choices and budget your
time accordingly. Hotels and restaurants are rated on a scale of zero (recommended) to three
stars (exceptional). Attractions, shopping, nightlife, towns, and regions are rated according to
the following scale: zero stars (recommended), one star (highly recommended), two stars (very
highly recommended), and three stars (must-see).
In addition to the star-rating system, we also use seven feature icons that point you to the
great deals, in-the-know advice, and unique experiences that separate travelers from tourists.
Throughout the book, look for:

Finds Special finds—those places only insiders know about

Fun Fact Fun facts—details that make travelers more informed and their trips more fun

Kids Best bets for kids and advice for the whole family

Moments Special moments—those experiences that memories are made of

Overrated Places or experiences not worth your time or money

Tips Insider tips—great ways to save time and money

Value Great values—where to get the best deals

The following abbreviations are used for credit cards:

AE American Express DISC Discover V Visa
DC Diners Club MC MasterCard

Frommers.com
Now that you have the guidebook to a great trip, visit our website at www.frommers.com for
travel information on more than 3,000 destinations. With features updated regularly, we give
you instant access to the most current trip-planning information available. At Frommers.com,
you’ll also find the best prices on airfares, accommodations, and car rentals—and you can even
book travel online through our travel booking partners. At Frommers.com, you’ll also find the
following:
• Online updates to our most popular guidebooks
• Vacation sweepstakes and contest giveaways
• Newsletter highlighting the hottest travel trends
• Online travel message boards with featured travel discussions
04_58975x ch01.qxd 9/27/05 12:36 AM Page 1

1
The Best of Los Cabos & Baja
A lthough many consider Baja Mexico as an extension of Southern California, it is
actually a region rich with its own culture, history, and attractions. The area’s tremen-
dous variety attracts every kind of traveler with an unequaled mix of sophisticated
resorts, rustic inns, exquisite beaches, desert landscapes, and exhilarating adventures.
Following are my personal favorites—the best places to go, the best restaurants, the
best hotels, and my picks for must-see, one-of-a-kind experiences.

1 The Most Unforgettable Travel Experiences

• Harvest Festival in the Valle de Identidades Mexicanas (Museum of
Guadalupe: Mexico’s wine country Mexican Identities), gallery space for
comes alive in true fiesta style each changing exhibitions, a concert hall,
year, late August to early September, and an OMNIMAX theater, all
during this annual wine festival. The showcasing the best of Mexico’s cul-
celebrations combine wine tastings ture and performing arts. See p. 146.
with parties, concerts, blessings of the • Foxploration!: When the 1997
grapes, and other events. See p. 147. movie Titanic was filmed here, at a
• Exploring Baja’s Missions: From the seaside sound stage created for the
late 17th through the 19th centuries, production of the movie, Hollywood
Jesuit, Franciscan, and Dominican fri- turned its attention to Rosarito Beach
ars founded a succession of missions in for even more movie making. The
Baja California. The missions were original production facility has been
part of the many institutions that the turned into an interactive museum
Spanish crown used to colonize the and entertainment center that brings
territories of “Nuevo España.” Explore into focus the art of moviemaking and
one or several along the “Camino Real special effects, especially those made
Misionero.” See p. 118. along Baja’s coastline. See p. 160.
• Arts Festival in Todos Santos: • Bullfights in Tijuana: No matter
Although Todos Santos is filled with what your opinion of bullfighting
a creative, artistic ambience at any may be, the pastime is an undeniable
time, it reaches a peak each February part of the sporting culture of Mex-
during the annual Arts Festival. Held ico, drawing from its Spanish her-
since the early 1990s, the festival con- itage. Considered among the best
tinues to grow in popularity and con- venues for watching this sport in
tent. See p. 87. North America, Tijuana’s dual bull-
• Centro Cultural Tijuana: The rings feature top matadors in their
ultramodern complex houses an contest against bulls. The season runs
impressive combination of cultural from May to September. See p. 149.
venues, including the Museo de las
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2 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF LOS CABOS & BAJA

• Cave Paintings of Central Baja: is also an adventure in itself. See “Baja’s

Primitive rock paintings on the walls Cave Paintings: An Exploration of the
of caves in central Baja are the only Mysterious” on p. 116.
examples of this type of art on the • Carnaval in La Paz: The best Car-
North American continent. Their ori- naval (or Mardi Gras) party in Baja
gin remains a mystery, and researchers takes place in La Paz, where round-
say they could date back as far as the-clock revelries take place just
10,000 years, created during the Pre- prior to Lent. The oceanfront malecón
historic Age. Regardless of who cre- is the site of most of the festivities as
ated them, or when they were created, this generally tranquil town swings
the colorful, mystical murals are into party mode. See p. 94.
impressive. The journey to reach them

2 The Best Beach Vacations

• Los Cabos Corridor: Dramatic rock beach life at its best. Most accommo-
formations and crashing waves mix dations are smaller, inexpensive inns,
with wide stretches of soft sand and a with a few unique, more luxurious
rolling break here. This stretch of places tossed in. Explore a succession
coast is also home to Baja’s most lux- of rocky coves and sandy beaches, or
urious resorts, verdant golf greens, focus your efforts on underwater vis-
and even a specialty surf camp. Start tas or the offshore islands, where
at San José del Cabo and work your you’ll encounter a wealth of marine
way down to the famed Playa de life, as well as great diving and snor-
Amor at Land’s End in Cabo San keling. You can also visit nearby Isla
Lucas. Some beaches here are more Espíritu Santo, where you can mingle
suitable for contemplation than for with the resident colony of sea lions.
swimming, which isn’t all bad. See See chapter 5.
chapter 4. • Loreto: Once the center of the mis-
• Todos Santos: Although the town of sion movement in Baja, Loreto is
Todos Santos itself is just inland from both a town of historical interest as
the beach, it’s near enough to beauti- well as a naturalists’ dream. Offshore
ful stretches of pristine beaches, islands provide abundant opportuni-
where whales can easily be sighted ties for kayaking, snorkeling, diving,
offshore during the months of and exploring, and the beaches to the
December through May. During south of town are downright dreamy.
summer months, these shores are If you tire of the big blue, there are
home to nesting turtles. Year-round, plenty of inland explorations nearby
an eco–surf camp specializes in teach- as well. See chapter 6.
ing the art of surfing to women, • Rosarito to Ensenada: Northern
though they usually have lessons for Baja’s beach towns may be primarily
both sexes. The town itself is part known for attracting a rowdy party
artist outpost, part pure relaxation. crowd on weekends, but whether or
See chapter 4. not you’re here for the revelry, you’ll
• La Paz: If laid-back is what you’re also find this stretch of coast ideal for
after, this town—the official capital of great surfing and dramatic diving.
Baja Sur—offers peaceful, small-town See chapter 7.
04_58975x ch01.qxd 9/27/05 12:36 AM Page 3

T H E B E S T O U T D O O R A DV E N T U R E S / AC T I V E VAC AT I O N S 3

3 The Best Museums

• Museo Histórico Comunitario: It’s opportunities to get up close and per-
a little-known fact that this region— sonal with the snakes, iguanas,
now known as Mexico’s wine coun- lizards, crocodiles, and other reptil-
try—was originally settled by Russian ians of Baja. Children seem especially
immigrants who were granted politi- happy to explore here. See p. 102.
cal asylum by Mexico in the early • Museo Regional de Historia,
1900s. A tribute to these pioneers of Mulegé: It’s not so much this
grape cultivation in the area, this museum that fascinates me; it’s more
small but intriguing museum tells the about the fact that it was once a state
story of this curious time. An adja- penitentiary that allowed its inmates
cent restaurant serves traditional to leave during the day—on the con-
Russian food. See p. 174. dition they return at dusk! For some
• Museo de las Misiones, Loreto: The reason, escape attempts were rare in
missionaries who came to Baja in the this honor-system prison. The
17th through 19th centuries did more museum details the operation of this
than work on converting the local unique entity and the town of
populations to Christianity. This Mulegé. See p. 130.
museum features a complete collec- • Museo de Cera, Tijuana: Many of
tion of historical and anthropological the figures in this wax museum are
exhibits pertaining to the Baja penin- creepy, but it’s hard not to be fasci-
sula, and includes the zoological stud- nated by the eclectic mix of personal-
ies and scientific writings of the friars. ities memorialized in wax that range
It also documents the contribution of from Aztec warriors and Dominican
these missions to the demise of friars to Bill Clinton and Whoopi
indigenous cultures. See p. 118. Goldberg. Don’t miss the Chamber
• Museo de Antropología (Anthro- of Horrors. See p. 145.
pology Museum), La Paz: If you • Museo de las Identidades Mexi-
can’t make it to see the actual cave canas (Museum of Mexican Identi-
paintings of central Baja, this ties), Tijuana: Located inside the
museum has large, although faded, Centro Cultural Tijuana, this perma-
photographs of them along with a nent collection of artifacts from pre-
number of exhibits on various topics Hispanic through modern times
concerning the geology and history of displays the gamut of Mexican histor-
Baja California. See p. 101. ical and cultural influences, leaving
• Serpentarium, La Paz: Reptiles are visitors with a better understanding
the star of this mostly open-air natu- of this complex society. See p. 146.
ral museum that offers plenty of

4 The Best Outdoor Adventures/Active Vacations

• Whale-Watching in Magdalena Vizcaíno Biosphere Reserve, where a
Bay: Few sights are as awe-inspiring large number of whales can be seen
as watching whales in their natural easily. The various protected bays and
habitat, and few places in the world lagoons in this area on the Pacific
can offer as complete an experience as coast are the preferred winter waters
Mexico’s Baja peninsula, especially in for migrating gray whales as they
Magdalena Bay. It’s part of the El
04_58975x ch01.qxd 9/27/05 12:36 AM Page 4

4 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF LOS CABOS & BAJA

journey south to mate and give birth holes of play. In addition to the
to their calves. See chapter 6. championship design, quality, and
• Scuba Diving off Los Cabos: Great exquisite desert-and-sea scenery of
dive sites are very accessible from Los these courses, Cabo offers very reli-
Cabos, with the favorites being able weather. The ample and intrigu-
Gordo Banks and Cabo Pulmo. Most ing variety of courses challenges
impressive, however, are the “sand- golfers of all levels. See chapter 4.
falls” (similar to a waterfall, but • Exploring the Caves in Central
instead of water flowing over a ledge, Baja: The goal of a trip to these caves
sand flows in an underwater current) is to see the mysterious cave paintings
that even Jacques Cousteau couldn’t that potentially date back to the Pre-
figure out. See chapter 4. historic Age, but the journey itself to
• Surfing the Northern Baja Coast: the caves in Central Baja is a fascinat-
Northern Baja has the perfect combi- ing adventure. Depending upon your
nation of perpetual right-breaking destination, treks can be mildly chal-
waves, cheap places to stay, and a lenging to difficult. These treks will
community of fellow surfers. It’s also take you through the canyons, cross-
home to Killers at Todos Santos ing streams, and up challenging
Island, a legendary wave that takes a climbs. In many protected areas,
boat ride to reach, as well as many access is allowed only with an author-
other great breaks. See chapter 7. ized guide. The caves are in the San
• Kayaking the Islands off Loreto: Francisco de la Sierra and Santa
The offshore islands and inlets sur- Martha mountains in Central Baja.
rounding Loreto are a kayaker’s para- See chapter 6.
dise, and numerous outfitters are • Sportfishing in the Sea of Cortez:
equipped to take you on day trips or You’re as likely to reel in the big one
overnight kayak excursions. Espe- here as anywhere in the world, where
cially popular is exploring Isla del bringing in a 45-kilogram (100-lb.)
Carmen, a mostly inaccessible and marlin is considered routine. The Sea
private island just offshore. See chap- of Cortez has abundant sport fish-
ter 6. ing—which was the original lure to
• Snorkeling with Sea Lions at Los adventure travelers years before easier
Islotes: A playful, curious colony of access brought more traditional
more than 250 California brown sea tourism. Among your likely catches
lions resides on Los Islotes, a cluster are sailfish, wahoo, tuna, and the
of red-rock islands offshore from La famed marlin, in black, blue, and
Paz. Numerous tour operators can striped varieties. See chapter 4.
take you there, a 21⁄2-hour trip by • Hiking the National Parks of
boat, after which you can snorkel or Northern Baja: In northern Baja,
dive while watching the underwater several national parks provide ample
antics of these sea mammals. See opportunities for hiking, camping,
chapter 5. climbing, and other explorations.
• Golf in Los Cabos: Los Cabos has Among the most notable is the Par-
evolved as one of the world’s top golf que Nacional Constitución de
destinations. It currently has seven 1857, a 5,000-hectare (12,350-acre)
courses open to challenge golfers and preserve at an altitude that averages
several more under construction. The 1,200m (3,936 ft.), and, contrary to
master plan calls for a total of 207 what you may expect in Mexico, has
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T H E B E S T P L A C E S T O G E T A W AY F R O M I T A L L 5

a large lake in an alpine setting. In the with a summit at 3,095m (10,152 ft.)
Parque Nacional Sierra San Pedro from which you can see both oceans
Mártir, you’ll find the Picacho del and an immense stretch of land. See
Diablo (Devil’s Peak), a mountain chapter 7.

5 The Best Places to Get Away from It All

• Rancho La Puerta: In 1940, well expeditions. Located just to the north
before resort spas were the rage—or of the town of San José del Cabo, it’s
even an acceptable form of vacation- a great spot to get away—yet still be
ing—Rancho La Puerto opened its near to dining, golf, and other activi-
doors. It was called a “health camp” ties, should you feel so inclined. See
then, and today it is considered a pio- chapter 4.
neer of the modern spa and fitness • Valle de Guadalupe: Mexico’s wine
movement. In the more than 50 years country bears little resemblance to
it’s been in operation it has consis- the tourism-oriented wineries of
tently been at the cutting edge of pro- Northern California. Here you’ll find
moting health and wellness. It plenty of peace and quiet in the midst
emphasizes a mind/body/spirit phi- of acres of vineyards. A couple of
losophy in one of the most relaxing small inns welcome visitors who want
and pristine settings you can imagine. to stop and smell the grapes—or vin-
For those looking to get away from it tages produced here. And, its eclectic
all in search of your best self, this is history makes exploring the area a
the place. See p. 155. treat. See chapter 7.
• Mulegé: Literally an oasis in the • Danzante Adventure Resort: This
desert, Mulegé attracts those looking resort’s location, 40km (25 miles)
for a small, funky, and lovely town north of Loreto on pristine Ensenada
where one can slow down the pace of Blanca Bay makes it far away from
life to a crawl. You’ll find an assort- most everything, but you won’t miss a
ment of accommodations here, plus thing. Lovely suites filled with hand-
nearby places to park an RV or pitch made furnishings are perched on a
a tent, with opportunities nearby for hill facing the sea, while ocean
nature explorations. And if you feel breezes gently rock the hammocks
the need to connect with others, found on every palm-thatched ter-
there’s the ubiquitous Mulegé pig race. All meals and a host of activities
roast, which is more than a meal are included in the rate. Getting to
here—it’s a tradition. See chapter 6. know the engaging and adventurous
• Camping near Loreto: The beautiful couple that owns Danzante is one of
succession of tranquil coves and the main reasons to book a stay here.
beaches bordering Loreto makes for See p. 120.
great places to set up camp. Once set- • Todos Santos: This artists’ outpost is
tled you can kayak the coast or becoming increasingly popular for
indulge in other opportunities to those looking for the climate and
explore this magnificent landscape. beaches of southern Baja without the
See chapter 6. crowds of Los Cabos. It’s both a cul-
• La Playita: Although it’s close to the tural oasis as well as an oasis in the
easy air access and diversions of Los true sense of the word: In this desert
Cabos, La Playita is a quiet beach to landscape, Todos Santos enjoys an
use as a starting point for fishing almost continuous water supply that
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6 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF LOS CABOS & BAJA

supports verdant groves of palms, lovely colonial-style architecture

mangos, avocados, and papayas. The prevalent in the town cultivate an
quaint inns, creative cuisine, and ambience of the artistic. See chapter 4.

6 The Best Shopping

Some tips on bargaining: Although hag- tableware, and decorative pottery
gling over prices in markets is expected here, but you can also watch it being
and part of the fun, don’t try to browbeat made. Each piece offered for sale in
the vendor or bad-mouth the goods. Ven- this popular shop is individually
dors won’t bargain with people they con- made. See p. 103.
sider disrespectful unless they are • San José’s boutiques: As San José del
desperate to make a sale. For best results Cabo becomes increasingly gentri-
be insistent but friendly. fied, so does its shopping experience.
• Carved Furniture in Rosarito: In southern Baja, the best boutiques
Rosarito Beach’s Bulevar Benito and shops offering clothing, jewelry,
Juarez has become known for its and decorative items for the home are
selection of shops featuring ornately found within the lovely colonial
carved wooden furniture. Comparing buildings in this tree-lined town. See
the offerings has become easy, with so p. 56.
many options in one central location. • Avenida Revolución in Tijuana:
See p. 158. This rowdy drive is shopping central
• Art in Todos Santos: Whether it’s oil for the entire Baja peninsula. The
on canvas, pottery, or weavings, you’ll most popular items offered here are
find very high quality original works electronics, traditional Mexican sou-
of art in this town that is building a venirs, T-shirts, and prescription med-
reputation as a truly cultural commu- icines—sans prescription. See p. 146.
nity. The annual Arts Festival, held • Mercado de Artesanías, Tijuana:
every February, brings an even greater For a more authentic and spirited
selection of works to choose from. marketplace atmosphere to pick up
See p. 87. your colorful sombrero or serape,
• Chinatown in La Paz: Although head to this collection of over 200
small in size, La Paz’s Chinatown is stalls in Tijuana, where bargaining is
authentic, drawing from the days both accepted and expected. You’ll
when Chinese immigrants were also find pottery, clothing, and crafts
brought to Baja to work the mines from throughout Mexico. See p. 151.
here. From dim sum to shops selling • Duty-Free in Cabo San Lucas: Fine
Chinese herbs and medicines, you’ll jewelry, watches, perfumes, and cos-
feel transported to another culture in metics are offered at duty-free prices
this unique Mexican shopping expe- in Cabo’s UltraFemme store, the
rience. See p. 103. largest duty-free shop in Mexico. See
• Ibarra’s Pottery, La Paz: Not only p. 79.
can you shop for hand-painted tiles,

7 The Hottest Nightlife

Although, as expected, Cabo San Lucas is good time after dark. Along the northern
home to much of Baja’s nightlife, that Pacific coast, beachside dance floors with
resort city isn’t the only place to have a live bands and extended happy hours in
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T H E M O S T L U X U R I O U S H OT E L S 7

seaside bars dominate the nightlife. Here tourists have to Mexico, though it
are some of my favorite hot spots: offers only a glimmer of the country’s
• Nikki Beach, Los Cabos: The global wealth of attractions. No matter the
haven of the hip has recently arrived night, you’re likely to find a party
in Cabo San Lucas, on the beachfront atmosphere here on par with the best
of the Meliá San Lucas hotel on of a Mardi Gras celebration in full
Medano Beach. Lounge on oversize swing. Bring plenty of aspirin for the
beds draped in white, day or night, next morning—as overindulgence is
while sipping colorful cocktails and the norm. See chapter 7.
watching the beautiful people groove • The Tijuana Club Scene: Tijuana’s
to music spun by the worlds’ hottest nightlife is not limited to Avenida
DJs. See p. 84. Revolución: Increasingly, the city
• Cabos’s Cantinas: The nightlife is hosting a sophisticated club
scene in Los Cabos originated in a scene that welcomes internationally
collection of rowdy beach bars, which renowned DJs and the requisite selec-
still hold their appeal to this day, reg- tion of martinis. Most of these clubs
ularly packing in the crowds until the are concentrated in the Zona Río. See
first fishing boats head out to sea. chapter 7.
The Giggling Marlin and El Squid • Beach Bars of Rosarito and Ense-
Roe still rank as the top spots for rev- nada: It doesn’t have to be spring
elers looking for the laid-back but break in Rosarito or Ensenada to find
riotous good time that seems only to a similar let-loose party atmosphere
happen here. See chapter 4. here. The favored spot is Papas &
• Tijuana’s Avenida Revolución: This Beer, which has a location in both of
street ranks among the world’s most these beach towns. And both regu-
famous—or infamous—for night- larly draw a young and spirited crowd
time carousing. “La Revo,” as it’s for endless-summer style fun. See
commonly known, is probably the chapter 7.
single most common introduction

8 The Most Luxurious Hotels

• Las Ventanas al Paraíso (Los Cabos 624/145-6400; www.esperanzaresort.
Corridor; & 888/525-0483 in the com): A creation of the famed
U.S., or 624/144-0300; www.las Auberge Resorts group, this dramati-
ventanas.com): Understated luxury cally designed resort, set on a bluff
by the sea, Las Ventanas perfectly overlooking two small coves, feels
melds desert landscapes and sophisti- more like a collection of villas than a
cated pampering in this elegant yet hotel. Hallmarks are its exceptional
intimate resort. Special extras like tel- spa, award-winning restaurant, and
escopes and fireplaces to private pools impeccable service. See p. 62.
and rooftop terraces make each suite • One&Only Palmilla (Los Cabos
a slice of heaven. Their seaside infin- Corridor; & 800/637-2226 in the
ity pool is one of my favorite places in U.S., or 624/146-7000; www.oneand
the world, helped, in no small part, onlypalmilla.com): Currently the
by the exceptional service offered by most popular Mexican resort with the
the resort’s pool butlers. See p. 62. Hollywood crowd, the completely
• Esperanza (Los Cabos Corridor; renovated Palmilla has regained its
& 866/331-2226 in the U.S., or spot as the most deluxe hotel in this
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8 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF LOS CABOS & BAJA

seaside playground known for sump- for swimming add to its appeal. See
tuous accommodations and great golf. p. 119.
The new, exceptional spa, fitness cen- • Camino Real Tijuana (Tijuana;
ter, and yoga garden, as well as a & 877/215-3051 in the U.S., or 664/
restaurant by renowned chef Charlie 633-4000; www.caminoreal.com/
Trotter, are added bonuses. See p. 63. tijuana): Bold architecture in vibrant
• Camino Real Loreto Baja Beach & colors are signature Camino Real, as is
Golf Resort (Loreto; & 800/873- the collection of fine Mexican art that
7484 in the U.S., or 613/133-0010; graces the lobby here. This city hotel
www.caminoreal.com): Set on its is considered Tijuana’s most popular,
own private cove just south of the with spacious, work-friendly rooms
historic town of Loreto, this is central and a selection of services that cater to
Baja’s most luxurious place to stay. An taking care of business. See p. 152.
adjacent golf course and a calm beach

9 The Best Budget Inns

• Cabo Inn (Cabo San Lucas; & 624/ La Pazta restaurant is a favorite of
143-3348; www.caboinnhotel.com): mine in La Paz. See p. 105.
This former bordello is the best • Hotel Las Trojes (Loreto; & 613/
budget inn in the area. Rooms are 135-0277; www.loreto.com/costa2.
small but extra clean and invitingly htm): This unusual bed-and-break-
decorated, amenities are generous, fast is built from authentic wooden
and the owner-managers are friendly granaries (trojes) from the Tarascan
and helpful. Ideally located, close to Indians, brought over from the state
town and near the marina, the inn of Michoacán. A beach bar and the
caters to sportfishers. See p. 80. friendly service are additional reasons
• Posada Señor La Mañana (San José to stay. See p. 121.
del Cabo; & 624/142-1372; www. • Hotel Hacienda Mulegé (Mulegé;
srmanana.cam): Set in a grove of & 615/153-0021): Right in the heart
tropical trees, this simple and simply of Mulegé, this former 18th-century
inviting inn offers guests an abun- hacienda is a comfortable and value-
dance of hammocks strewn about the priced place to stay, complete with a
property as well as the use of a com- small shaded pool, restaurant, and
munity kitchen, which encourages popular bar. See p. 132.
impromptu get-togethers. See p. 58. • La Fonda (South of Rosarito Beach;
• Hotel Mediterrane (La Paz; & 612/ no phone): Since the 1950s, La
125-1195; www.hotelmed.com): Fonda has welcomed repeat guests
Mixing Mexican with Mediterranean drawn to its dramatic setting perched
decor details, the result here is a styl- on a cliff above breaking surf and the
ish, economical inn. The location quiet of a place with no phones. The
near the malecón means you’re close best rooms have fireplaces, which are
to everything. The on-site Trattoria a welcome addition during winter
months. See p. 162.

10 The Best Unique Inns

• Casa Natalia (San José del Cabo; This renovated historic home, now a
& 888/277-3814 in the U.S. or 624/ charming inn, is an oasis of palms,
142-5100; www.casanatalia.com): waterfalls, and flowers against the
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THE BEST DINING EXPERIENCES 9

desert landscape. Each room and with the four-course dinners served
suite is an artful combination of each evening (for an extra charge,
modern architecture and traditional though breakfasts are included). See
Mexican touches. The restaurant is p. 175.
the hottest in town. See p. 57. • Posada de las Flores (Loreto; & 877/
• Hotel California (Todos Santos; 245-2860 or 613/135-1162; www.
& 612/145-0525 or -0522): After posadadelasflores.com): Adjacent to
undergoing a complete renovation in the main plaza in this town steeped in
2003, the Hotel California has now history, this inn is the perfect setting
emerged as the hippest place to stay from which to explore—rooms are
in the area. Jewel-tone rooms and a individually decorated in fine Mexi-
profusion of candles and eclectic can antiques and arts and crafts. It
accents make this a study in creative also boasts a rooftop glass-bottomed
style. Although you can check out swimming pool. See p. 120.
any time you please, chances are you • Punta Chivato (north of Mulegé at
won’t want to after being lured in by Punta Chivato; & 615/153-0188;
the inviting pool area and the popu- www.posadadelasflores.com): Enjoy
lar La Coronela Restaurant and Bar. the 3 hectares (71⁄2 acres) of desert
See p. 88. landscape and tranquil, private beach
• Adobe Guadalupe (Valle de Guada- that come with a stay in the large and
lupe; & 649/631-3098; www.adobe beautifully decorated suites and guest
guadalupe.com): The six rooms of rooms here. Meals are included, as are
this inn are among the only places to a host of light activities. There’s even
stay in Mexico’s wine country, and are a private airstrip to make it more
inviting in their own right. It’s also a accessible. See p. 130.
boutique winery, offering its vintages

11 The Best Dining Experiences

In this section, best doesn’t necessarily • Café Santa Fe (Todos Santos; & 612/
mean most luxurious. Although some of 145-0300): Excellent northern Ital-
the restaurants listed here are fancy ian cuisine prepared in the exhibition
affairs, others are simple places to get kitchen of this gracious cafe has been
fine, authentic Mexican cuisine. a driving factor in drawing people to
• “C,” at the One&Only Palmilla Todos Santos over the past decade.
(Los Cabos Corridor; & 624/146- Enjoying lunch here in the flower-
7000): Under the direction of cele- filled courtyard is a particularly won-
brated chef Charlie Trotter, a meal at derful way to pass an afternoon. See
“C” is a fusion of exquisite flavors, p. 90.
perfectly melding Mexican and Con- • Mi Cocina (San José del Cabo;
tinental cuisine. See p. 63. & 624/142-5100; www.casanatalia.
• Laja (Valle de Guadalupe; & 646/ com/dining.cfm): It could be the cre-
155-2556): This lovely adobe-and- ative menu, the captivating garden
stone gourmet restaurant has become setting, the hibiscus-infused martinis,
a reason in and of itself to visit Mex- or it could be the gracious hospitality
ico’s wine country. A daily fixed menu of owners Nathalie and Loic. What-
of four to eight courses is prepared, ever the reason, Mi Cocina at Casa
which regularly draws a crowd and Natalia gets my vote for the single
wins mounting accolades. See p. 176. best dining experience in Los Cabos.
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10 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF LOS CABOS & BAJA

There may possibly be better restau- running the operation needed their
rants in the area, but for me, the bread, which continues to be addic-
combination of winning elements tive to this day. See p. 135.
can’t be topped. See p. 60. • Cien Años (Tijuana; & 664/633-
• The Mulegé Pig Roast (Mulegé): It 3900): One of the finest gourmet
doesn’t matter where you stay in Mexican restaurants in Baja, Cien
Mulegé, you’ll invariably be con- Años will intrigue even the most
fronted with the possibility of a pig adventurous of diners with regional
roast. As they say here, it’s more than specialties that may include garlicky
a pig, it’s a party; and it’s the must-do ant eggs or buttery guisanos (cactus
tourist activity in town, one in which worms). See p. 15.
the pig is roasted Polynesian-style in a • La Embotelladora Vieja (Ensenada;
palm-lined open pit for hours while & 646/174-0807): In the Bodegas
guests enjoy libations. See p. 132. de Santo Tomás winery, this stylish
• El Boleo (Santa Rosalía; & 615/ restaurant features a Baja-French
152-0310): Throughout Mexico, menu carefully crafted to comple-
bakeries offer a small version of the ment wine. See p. 171.
French baguette known as boleos, and • Lobster in Puerto Nuevo (Puerto
I’ve concluded that they’ve been Nuevo): It seems almost every restau-
named after this bakery, in Santa rant or simple shack serving food in
Rosalía. This bakery has been operat- this tiny seaside town has locally
ing since the late 1800s when the caught lobster on the menu—and
French Compañía de Boleo (part of there’s good reason why. It’s fresh,
the Rothschild family holdings) and it’s delicious. The Puerto Nuevo
obtained a 99-year lease from the way of serving it is grilled and accom-
Mexican government to operate the panied with fresh tortillas, salsa,
area’s copper mines in exchange for limes, beans and rice, and the price is
creating employment opportunities. just over $10, making it well worth a
Of course, the French executives stop in this town. See p. 164.
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2
Planning Your Trip
to Los Cabos & Baja
A little planning can make the difference between a good trip and a great trip. When
should you go? What’s the best way to get there? How much should you plan on
spending? What festivals or special events will be taking place during your visit? What
safety or health precautions are advised? I’ll answer these and other questions for you
in this chapter. In addition to these basics, I highly recommend taking a little time to
learn about the culture and traditions of Mexico and the Baja. It can make the differ-
ence between simply getting away for a few days and truly adding cultural under-
standing to your trip. See appendix A for more details.

1 Baja California at a Glance

The Baja peninsula is part of Mexico— of cruisers, fishermen, divers, and adven-
and yet it is not. Attached to the main- turers starting in the late 1940s. By the
land United States and separated from early 1980s, the Mexican government
the rest of Mexico by the Sea of Cortez realized the growth potential of Los
(also called the Gulf of California), the Cabos and invested in new highways, air-
Baja peninsula is longer than Italy, port facilities, golf courses, and modern
stretching 1,410km (874 miles) from marine facilities. Expanded air traffic and
Mexico’s northernmost city of Tijuana to the opening of Carretera Transpeninsular
Cabo San Lucas at its southern tip. Vol- in 1973 paved the way for the area’s spec-
canic uplifting created the craggy tacular growth.
desertscape you see today. Whole forests BAJA SUR Of the peninsula’s three
of cardón cactus, spiky Joshua trees, and regions, Baja Sur has attracted the most
spindly ocotillo bushes populate the raw, attention and travelers, and is increasingly
untamed landscape. known as a haven for golfers. Twin towns
Culturally and geographically, Baja is with distinct personalities sit at the tip of
set apart from mainland Mexico, and it the peninsula: Cabo San Lucas and San
remained isolated for many years. Now José del Cabo. The two Cabos are the
the state of Baja California del Sur has center of accommodations and activities.
developed into a vacation haven that The road that connects Cabo San
offers spectacular golf, fishing, diving, Lucas and San José del Cabo is the cen-
and whale-watching. Great sportfishing terpiece of resort growth. Known as the
originally centered attention on Los Corridor, this stretch of four well-paved
Cabos, and it remains a lure today, lanes offers cliff-top vistas but has no
although golf has overtaken it as the prin- nighttime lighting. The area’s most deluxe
ciple attraction. Once accessible only by resorts and renowned golf courses are
water, Baja attracted a hearty community
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12 C H A P T E R 2 . P L A N N I N G YO U R T R I P TO L O S C A B O S & BA JA

here, along with a collection of dramatic to view indigenous cave paintings, which
beaches and coves. UNESCO has named a World Heritage
Although Los Cabos often feels like the Site. This is also the place to come if
southern playground of the United States’ you’re interested in whale-watching; many
West Coast, other areas of Baja Sur can tour companies operate out of Loreto and
seem like the least crowded corners of smaller neighboring towns. For more
Mexico. Todos Santos, an artistic com- information, see “Whale-Watching in
munity on the Pacific side of the coastal Baja: A Primer,” in chapter 6.
curve, just north of the tip, draws travel- BAJA NORTE Tijuana has the dubi-
ers who find that Cabo San Lucas has ous distinction of being the most visited
outgrown them. La Paz, the capital of and perhaps most misunderstood town in
Baja Sur, remains an easygoing maritime all of Mexico. Dog racing, free-flowing
port, with an interesting assortment of tequila, and a sin-city reputation have all
small lodgings and a growing diversity of been hallmarks of this classic border
eco- and adventure tours. town, a favored resort for the Hollywood
MID-BAJA Among the highlights of elite during Prohibition. New cultural
the mid-Baja region are the east coast and sporting attractions, extensive shop-
towns of Loreto, Mulegé, and Santa Ros- ping, and strong business growth—of the
alía. Although they have a much richer reputable kind—are helping to brighten
historic and cultural heritage than Baja Tijuana’s image.
Sur’s resort towns, they’ve been eclipsed by Tranquil Rosarito Beach is also
the growth of tourism infrastructure and reemerging as a resort town, given a boost
services in the two Cabos. Loreto cur- after the movie Titanic was filmed here
rently stands at the center of attention of (the set is now a movie-themed amuse-
the Mexican government’s promotional ment park). Farther down the Pacific
and investment focus, so expect this quiet coast is the lovely port town of Ensenada,
town to be growing soon. also known for its prime surfing and spir-
This area’s natural attractions have ited sportfishing. The nearby vineyards of
made it a center for sea kayaking, sport- Mexico’s wine country are a new and
fishing, and hiking—including excursions growing attraction.

2 Visitor Information
The Mexico Hot Line (& 800/44- medical, driving, and general travel infor-
MEXICO) is an excellent source for gen- mation gleaned from reports by its offices
eral information; you can request in Mexico, and consistently updated. You
brochures on the country and get answers can also request the Consular Informa-
to the most common questions from the tion Sheet by fax (& 202/647-3000).
exceptionally well-trained, knowledge- The same website also provides other
able staff. consular information sheets and warnings
More information (15,000 pages’ as well as Tips for Travelers to Mexico.
worth) about Mexico is available on the Another source is the Department of
official site of Mexico’s Tourism Promo- State’s background notes series. Visit the
tion Board, www.visitmexico.com. The State Department home page (www.
U.S. State Department (& 202/647- state.gov) for information.
5225; http://travel.state.gov) offers a The Centers for Disease Control and
Consular Information Sheet on Mexico Prevention Hot Line (& 800/311-3435
(http://travel.state.gov), with safety, or 404/639-3534; www.cdc.gov) is a
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E N T RY R E Q U I R E M E N T S & C U S TO M S 13

source of medical information for travelers United States: Chicago (& 312/606-
to Mexico and elsewhere. For travelers to 9252), Houston (& 713/772-2581, ext.
Mexico and Central America, the number 105, or 713/772-3819), Los Angeles
with recorded messages is & 877/FYI- (& 310/282-9112), and New York
TRIP. The toll-free fax number for (& 212/308-2110). The Mexican
requesting information is & 888/232- Embassy is at 1911 Pennsylvania Ave.
3299. Information by fax is also available NW, Washington, DC 20005 (& 202/
at www.cdc.gov/travel. The U.S. State 728-1750).
Department offers medical information Canada: 1 Place Ville-Marie, Suite
for Americans traveling abroad and a list of 1931, Montreal, QUE H3B 2C3 (& 514/
air ambulance services at http://travel. 871-1052); 2 Bloor St. W., Suite 1502,
state.gov. Toronto, ON M4W 3E2 (& 416/925-
MEXICAN GOVERNMENT TOUR- 0704); 999 W. Hastings, Suite 1110,
IST BOARD The board has offices in Vancouver, BC V6C 2W2 (& 604/669-
major North American cities, in addition 2845). The Embassy office is at 1500-45
to the main office in Mexico City O’Connor St., Ottawa, ON K1P 1A4
(& 555/203-1103). (& 613/233-8988; fax 613/235-9123).

3 Entry Requirements & Customs

ENTRY REQUIREMENTS necessary forms aboard your flight to
All travelers to Mexico are required to Mexico. The FMT is more important
present proof of citizenship, such as an than a passport in Mexico, so guard it
original birth certificate with a raised seal, carefully. If you lose it, you may not be
a valid passport, or naturalization papers. permitted to leave the country until you
Those using a birth certificate should also can replace it—a bureaucratic hassle that
have current photo identification, such as can take anywhere from a few hours to a
a driver’s license or official ID. If the last week.
name on the birth certificate is different The FMT can be issued for up to 180
from your current name, bring a photo days. Sometimes officials don’t ask but
identification card and legal proof of the just stamp a time limit, so be sure to say
name change, such as the original mar- “6 months,” or at least twice as long as
riage license or certificate. Note: Photo- you intend to stay. If you decide to extend
copies are not acceptable. your stay, you may request that additional
The best ID is a passport. Safeguard time be added to your FMT from an offi-
your passport in an inconspicuous, inac- cial immigration office in Mexico.
cessible place like a money belt, and keep Note: Children under 18 traveling
a copy of the critical pages with your without parents or with only one parent
passport number in a separate place. If must have a notarized letter from the
you lose your passport, visit the nearest absent parent(s) authorizing the travel.
consulate of your native country as soon
as possible for a replacement.
CUSTOMS
W H AT YO U C A N B R I N G
O N C E YO U ’ R E I N M E X I C O INTO MEXICO
You must carry a Mexican Tourist Per- When you enter Mexico, Customs offi-
mit (FMT), the equivalent of a tourist cials will be tolerant as long as you have
visa, which Mexican border officials issue, no illegal drugs or firearms. You’re
free of charge, after proof of citizenship is allowed to bring in two cartons of ciga-
accepted. Airlines generally provide the rettes or 50 cigars, plus 1 kilogram (2.2
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14 C H A P T E R 2 . P L A N N I N G YO U R T R I P TO L O S C A B O S & BA JA

Tips A Few Words on Prices in Mexico

The peso’s value continues to fluctuate—at press time it was close to 11

pesos to the dollar. Prices in this book (which are always given in U.S. dol-
lars) have been converted to U.S. dollars at 11 pesos to the dollar. Most
hotels in Mexico—with the exception of places that receive little foreign
tourism—quote prices in U.S. dollars. Thus, currency fluctuations are
unlikely to affect the prices charged by most hotels.
Mexico has a value-added tax of 15% (Impuesto al Valor Agregado, or
IVA, pronounced “ee-bah”) on almost everything, including restaurant
meals, bus tickets, and souvenirs. One of the exceptions is Los Cabos, where
the IVA is 10%; as ports of entry, the towns receive a break on taxes. Hotels
charge the usual 15% IVA, plus a locally administered bed tax of 2% (in
many but not all areas), for a total of 17%. In Los Cabos, hotels charge the
10% IVA plus 2% room tax. Prices quoted by hotels and restaurants will not
necessarily include IVA. You may find that upper-end properties quote
prices without IVA included, while lower-priced hotels include IVA. Always
ask to see a printed price sheet, and always ask if the tax is included.

lb.) of smoking tobacco; two 1-liter bot- For a clear summary of Canadian
tles of wine or hard liquor, and 12 rolls of rules, request the booklet I Declare from
film. A laptop computer, camera equip- the Canada Customs and Revenue
ment, and sports equipment that could Agency (& 800/461-9999 in Canada, or
feasibly be used during your stay are also 204/983-3500; www.ccra-adrc.gc.ca).
allowed. The underlying guideline is: U.K. citizens should contact HM
Don’t bring anything that looks as if it’s Customs & Excise (& 0845/010-9000,
meant to be resold in Mexico. or 020/8929-0152 from outside the
U.K.; www.hmce.gov.uk).
W H AT YO U C A N TA K E H O M E A helpful brochure for Australian citi-
U.S. citizens who want specifics on what zens, available from Australian consulates
they can bring back should download the or Customs offices, is Know Before You Go.
invaluable free pamphlet Know Before You For more information, contact the Aus-
Go from www.customs.gov. (Click tralian Customs Services (& 1300/363-
“Traveler Spotlight,” then “Know Before 263; www.customs.gov.au).
You Go.”) Or contact the U.S. Customs For information on New Zealand
Service, 1300 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Customs, contact The Customhouse,
Washington, DC 20229 (& 877/287- 17–21 Whitmore St., Box 2218, Welling-
8867) and request the pamphlet. ton (& 04/473-6099 or 0800/428-786;
www.customs.govt.nz).

4 Money
The currency in Mexico is the Mexican 1,000 pesos. Coins come in denomina-
peso. Paper currency comes in denomi- tions of 1, 2, 5, 10, and 20 pesos, and 20
nations of 20, 50, 100, 200, 500, and and 50 centavos (100 centavos = 1 peso).
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MONEY 15

The current exchange rate for the U.S. Before leaving a bank or exchange-house
dollar, and the one used in this book, is window, count your change in front of
around 11 pesos; at that rate, an item the teller before the next client steps up.
that costs 11 pesos would be equivalent Large airports have currency-exchange
to US$1. counters that often stay open whenever
Getting change is a problem. Small- flights are operating. Though convenient,
denomination bills and coins are hard to they generally do not offer the most
come by, so start collecting them early in favorable rates.
your trip. Shopkeepers everywhere always A hotel’s exchange desk commonly
seem to be out of change and small bills; pays less favorable rates than banks; how-
that’s doubly true in markets. ever, when the currency is in a state of
Many establishments that deal with flux, higher-priced hotels are known to
tourists, especially in coastal resort areas, pay higher rates than banks, in an effort
quote prices in dollars. To avoid confu- to attract dollars. In almost all cases, you
sion, they use the abbreviations “Dlls.” receive a better rate by changing money
for dollars and “M.N.” (moneda nacional, first, then paying.
or national currency) for pesos. All dollar BANKS & ATMs Banks in Mexico are
equivalencies in this book were based on rapidly expanding and improving serv-
an exchange rate of 11 pesos per dollar. ices. They tend to be open weekdays from
The rate of exchange fluctuates daily, 9am until 5pm, and often for at least a
so you probably are better off not half-day on Saturday. In larger resorts and
exchanging too much currency at once. cities, they can generally accommodate
Don’t forget to have enough pesos to the exchange of dollars (which used to
carry you over a weekend or Mexican hol- stop at noon) anytime during business
iday, when banks are closed. In general, hours. During times when the currency is
avoid carrying the U.S. $100 bill, the bill in flux, a particular bank may not
most commonly counterfeited in Mexico exchange dollars, so check before stand-
and therefore the most difficult to ing in line. Some, but not all, banks
exchange, especially in smaller towns. charge a service fee of about 1% to
Because small bills and coins in pesos are exchange traveler’s checks. However, you
hard to come by in Mexico, the $1 bill is can pay for most purchases directly with
very useful for tipping. A tip of U.S. traveler’s checks at the establishment’s
coins, which cannot be exchanged into stated exchange rate. Don’t even bother
Mexican currency, is of no value to the with personal checks drawn on a U.S.
service provider. bank—the bank will wait for your check
The bottom line on exchanging to clear, which can take weeks, before giv-
money: Ask first, and shop around. Banks ing you your money.
generally pay the top rates. Travelers to Mexico can easily withdraw
Exchange houses (casas de cambio) are money from ATMs in most major cities
generally more convenient than banks and resort areas. The U.S. State Depart-
because they have more locations and ment has an advisory against using ATMs
longer hours; the rate of exchange may be in Mexico for safety reasons, stating that
the same as at a bank or slightly lower.

Money Matters
The universal currency sign ($) is used to indicate pesos in Mexico. The use of
this symbol in this book, however, denotes U.S. currency.
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16 C H A P T E R 2 . P L A N N I N G YO U R T R I P TO L O S C A B O S & BA JA

they should only be used during business withdraw cash advances from your credit
hours, but this pertains primarily to Mex- cards at banks or ATMs, provided you
ico City, where crime remains a significant know your PIN. If you’ve forgotten
problem. In most resorts in Mexico, the yours, or didn’t even know you had one,
use of ATMs is perfectly safe—just use the call the number on the back of your
same precautions you would at any ATM. credit card and ask the bank to send it to
Universal bank cards (such as the Cirrus you. It usually takes 5 to 7 business days,
and PLUS systems) can be used. This is a though some banks will provide the num-
convenient way to withdraw money and ber over the phone if you tell them your
avoid carrying too much with you at any mother’s maiden name or some other per-
time. The exchange rate is generally more sonal information.
favorable than that at a currency house. Keep in mind that when you use your
Most machines offer Spanish/English credit card abroad, most banks assess a
menus and dispense pesos, but some offer 2% fee above the 1% fee charged by Visa
the option of withdrawing dollars. Be sure or MasterCard or American Express for
to check the daily withdrawal limit before currency conversion on credit charges.
you depart. But credit cards still may be the smart
For Cirrus locations abroad, check way to go when you factor in things like
& 800/424-7787 or www.mastercard. exorbitant ATM fees and higher traveler’s
com. For PLUS outlets abroad, check check exchange rates (and service fees).
& 800/843-7587 or www.visa.com. In Mexico Visa, MasterCard, and
Before you leave home, check your daily American Express are the most accepted
withdrawal limit, and make sure that cards. You’ll be able to charge most hotel,
your personal identification number restaurant, and store purchases, as well as
(PIN) works in international destina- almost all airline tickets, on your credit
tions. Also keep in mind that many banks card. You generally can’t charge gasoline
impose a fee every time a card is used at a purchases in Mexico. You can get cash
different bank’s ATM, and that fee can be advances of several hundred dollars on
higher for international transactions (up your card, but there may be a wait of 20
to $5 or more) than for domestic ones. minutes to 2 hours.
You can also get cash advances on your Charges will be made in pesos, then
credit card at an ATM. Keep in mind that converted into dollars by the bank issuing
credit card companies try to protect the credit card. Generally you receive the
themselves from theft by limiting the favorable bank rate when paying by credit
funds someone can withdraw outside card. However, be aware that some estab-
their home country, so call your credit lishments in Mexico add a 5% to 7% sur-
card company before you leave home. charge when you pay with a credit card.
And keep in mind that you’ll pay interest This is especially true when using Ameri-
from the moment of your withdrawal, can Express. Many times, advertised dis-
even if you pay your monthly bills on counts will not apply if you pay with a
time. credit card.
CREDIT CARDS Credit cards are a For tips and telephone numbers to call
safe way to carry money: They also pro- if your wallet is stolen or lost, go to “Lost
vide a convenient record of all your & Found” in the “Fast Facts” section of
expenses, and they generally offer rela- this chapter.
tively good exchange rates. You can also
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BAJA CALENDAR OF EVENTS 17

5 When to Go
High season on the Baja peninsula begins Christ Child; whoever receives the doll
around December 20 and continues to must host a tamales-and-atole party on
Easter. This is the best time for calm, February 2. January 6.
warm weather; snorkeling, diving, and February
fishing (the calmer weather means clearer Día de la Candelaria (Candlemas).
and more predictable seas); and for visiting Music, dances, processions, food, and
the ruins that dot the interior of the penin- other festivities lead up to a blessing of
sula. Book well in advance if you plan to seed and candles in a ceremony that
be in Los Cabos around the holidays. mixes pre-Hispanic and European tra-
Low season begins the day after Easter ditions marking the end of winter.
and continues to mid-December; during Those who attended the Three Kings
low season, prices may drop 20% to 50%. celebration reunite to share atole and
The weather in Baja, land of extremes, tamales at a party hosted by the recipi-
can be unpredictable. It can be sizzling ent of the doll found in the Rosca. Feb-
hot in summer and cold and windy in ruary 2.
winter—so windy that fishing and other
nautical expeditions may be grounded for Día de la Constitución (Constitu-
a few days. Though winter is often warm tion Day). This national holiday is in
enough for watersports, bring a wet suit if honor of the current Mexican constitu-
you’re a serious diver or snorkeler, as well tion, signed in 1917 as a result of the
as warmer clothes for unexpectedly chilly revolutionary war of 1910. It’s cele-
weather at night. brated through small parades. Febru-
ary 5.
Carnaval. Carnaval takes place over
BAJA CALENDAR the 3 days before the beginning of
OF EVENTS Lent. La Paz celebrates with special
Note: Banks, government offices, and many zeal, and visitors enjoy a festive atmos-
stores close on national holidays. phere and parades. The 3 days preced-
January ing Ash Wednesday.
Día de Año Nuevo (New Year’s Day). Miércoles de Ceniza (Ash Wednes-
This national holiday is perhaps the day). The start of Lent and time of
quietest day in all of Mexico. Most abstinence, this is a day of reverence
people stay home or attend church. All nationwide; some towns honor it with
businesses are closed. In traditional folk dancing and fairs.
indigenous communities, new tribal
leaders are inaugurated with colorful March
ceremonies rooted in the pre-Hispanic Semana Santa (Holy Week). Cele-
past. January 1. brates the last week in the life of Christ
from Palm Sunday through Easter
Día de los Reyes (Three Kings Day). Sunday with somber religious proces-
This day commemorates the Three sions almost nightly, spoofing of Judas,
Kings bringing gifts to the Christ and reenactments of biblical events,
Child. On this day, children receive plus food and craft fairs. Businesses
gifts, much like the traditional Christ- close during this traditional week of
mas gift-giving in the United States. Mexican national vacations.
Friends and families gather to share the If you plan on traveling to or around
Rosca de Reyes, a special cake. Inside Mexico during Holy Week, make
the cake is a small doll representing the
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18 C H A P T E R 2 . P L A N N I N G YO U R T R I P TO L O S C A B O S & BA JA

reservations early. Seats on flights into in 1723. Streets around the main plaza
and out of the country will be reserved fill with food, games, and wandering
months in advance. The week follow- troubadours. October 10 to 14.
ing is a traditional vacation period. Día de la Raza (“Ethnicity Day,” or
Late March or April. Columbus Day). This day commemo-
May rates the fusion of the Spanish and
El Día del Trabajo (Labor Day). Mexican peoples. October 12.
Workers’ parades take place country- November
wide, and everything closes. May 1. Día del los Muertos (Day of the
National holiday. Dead). This national holiday (Nov 1)
La Paz Foundation. Celebrates the actually lasts for 2 days: All Saints’
founding of La Paz by Cortez in 1535, Day—honoring saints and deceased
and features artesanía exhibitions from children—and All Souls’ Day, honor-
throughout southern Baja. May 1 to 5. ing deceased adults. Relatives gather at
La Paz. cemeteries countrywide, carrying can-
Cinco de Mayo. A national holiday dles and food, and often spend the
that commemorates the defeat of the night beside graves of loved ones.
French at the Battle of Puebla. May 5. Weeks before, bakers begin producing
bread in the shape of mummies or
June
round loaves decorated with bread
Día de la Marina (Navy Day). Cele- “bones.” Sugar skulls emblazoned with
brated in all coastal towns, with naval glittery names are sold everywhere.
parades and fireworks. June 1. Many days ahead, homes and churches
August erect altars laden with bread, fruit,
Fiestas de la Vendimia (Wine Har- flowers, candles, favorite foods, and
vest Festival). Ensenada’s food-and- photographs of saints and of the
wine festival celebrates the annual deceased. On both nights, costumed
harvest, with blessings, seminars, par- children walk through the streets,
ties, and wine tastings. Call & 800/ often carrying mock coffins and
44-MEXICO for details and schedule. pumpkin lanterns, into which they
Mid- to late August. expect money will be dropped.
September November 1 and 2.
Día de la Independencia (Indepen- Día de la Revolución (Revolution
dence Day). Celebrates Mexico’s inde- Day). This national holiday commem-
pendence from Spain. A day of parades, orates the start of the Mexican Revolu-
picnics, and family reunions through- tion in 1910 with parades, speeches,
out the country. At 11pm on Septem- rodeos, and patriotic events. Novem-
ber 15, the president of Mexico gives ber 20.
the famous independence grito (shout) December
from the National Palace in Mexico Feast of the Virgin of Guadalupe.
City. At least half a million people Religious processions, street fairs,
crowd into the zócalo (town square), dancing, fireworks, and Masses honor
and the rest of the country watches the the patroness of Mexico. It is one of
event on TV. September 15 and 16. the country’s most moving and beauti-
September 16 is a national holiday. ful displays of traditional culture. The
October Virgin of Guadalupe appeared to a
Festival Fundador. Celebrates the young man, Juan Diego, in December
founding of the town of Todos Santos
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H E A LT H & S A F E T Y 19

1531 on a hill near Mexico City. It’s Navidad (Christmas). Mexicans

customary for children to dress up as extend this celebration and leave their
Juan Diego, wearing mustaches and jobs, often beginning 2 weeks before
red bandanas. December 12. Christmas and continuing all the way
Christmas Posadas. On each of the 9 through New Year’s. Many businesses
nights before Christmas, it’s customary close, and resorts and hotels fill.
to reenact the Holy Family’s search for December 23 to 25.
an inn. Door-to-door candlelit proces- Víspera de Año Nuevo (New Year’s
sions pass through cities and villages Eve). As in the rest of the world, New
nationwide, especially Querétaro and Year’s Eve in Mexico is celebrated with
Taxco. Hosted by businesses and com- parties, fireworks, and plenty of noise.
munity organizations, these take the December 31.
place of the northern tradition of a
Christmas party. December 15 to 24.

6 Health & Safety

STAYING HEALTHY COMMON AILMENTS
G E N E R A L AVA I L A B I L I T Y HIGH-ALTITUDE HAZARDS Trav-
O F H E A LT H C A R E elers to certain regions of Mexico occa-
In most of Mexico’s resort destinations, sionally experience elevation sickness,
health care meeting U.S. standards is now which results from the relative lack of oxy-
available. Mexico’s major cities are also gen and the decrease in barometric pres-
known for their excellent health care, sure that characterizes high elevations
although the facilities available may be (more than 1,500m/5,000 ft.). Symptoms
sparser, and equipment older than what is include shortness of breath, fatigue,
available at home. Prescription medicine headache, insomnia, and even nausea.
is broadly available at Mexico pharmacies; Mexico City is at 2,121m (6,957 ft.)
however, be aware that you may need a above sea level, and mountainous points
copy of your prescription, or need to within central Baja are also at high eleva-
obtain a prescription from a local doctor. tions. At high elevations, it takes about 10
This is especially true in the border towns, days to acquire the extra red blood cor-
such as in Tijuana, where many Ameri- puscles you need to adjust to the scarcity
cans have been crossing into Mexico of oxygen. To help your body acclimate,
specifically for the purpose of purchasing drink plenty of fluids, avoid alcoholic bev-
lower-priced prescription medicines. erages, and don’t overexert yourself during
Contact the International Associa- the first few days. If you have heart or
tion for Medical Assistance to Travelers lung problems, talk to your doctor before
(IAMAT; & 716/754-4883, or 416/ going above 2,400m (8,000 ft.).
652-0137 in Canada; www.iamat.org) for BUGS, BITES & OTHER WILDLIFE
tips on travel and health concerns in the CONCERNS Mosquitoes and gnats
countries you’re visiting, and lists of local, are prevalent along the coast. Insect repel-
English-speaking doctors. The United lent (repelente contra insectos) is a must,
States Centers for Disease Control and and it’s not always available in Mexico. If
Prevention (& 800/311-3435; www. you’ll be in these areas and are prone to
cdc.gov) provides up-to-date information bites, bring along a repellent that con-
on health hazards by region or country tains the active ingredient DEET. Avon’s
and offers tips on food safety. Skin So Soft also works extremely well.
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20 C H A P T E R 2 . P L A N N I N G YO U R T R I P TO L O S C A B O S & BA JA

Another good remedy to keep the mos- suspicious of anyone or any situation.
You will probably feel physically safer in
quitoes away is to mix citronella essential
most Mexican cities and villages than in
oil with basil, clove, and lavender essen-
any comparable place at home. However,
tial oils. If you’re sensitive to bites, pick
up some antihistamine cream from a crime in Mexico has received attention in
drugstore at home. the North American press over the past
Most readers won’t ever see a scorpionseveral years. Many feel this unfairly exag-
gerates the real dangers, but it should be
(alacrán). But if one stings you, go imme-
diately to a doctor. In Mexico you can noted that crime rates, including taxi rob-
buy scorpion toxin antidote at any drug- beries, kidnappings, and highway car-
jackings, have risen in recent years. The
store. It is an injection and it costs around
$25. This is a good idea if you plan to most severe problems have been concen-
camp in a remote area where medical trated in Mexico City, where even long-
assistance can be several hours away. time foreign residents will attest to the
MORE SERIOUS DISEASES You overall lack of security. Isolated incidents
shouldn’t be overly concerned about trop-have also occurred in Ixtapa, Baja, Can-
ical diseases if you stay on the normal cún, and even traditionally tranquil
tourist routes and don’t eat street food.Puerto Escondido. Check the U.S. State
However, both dengue fever and cholera Department advisory before you travel
have appeared in Mexico in recent years. for any notable hot spots. See “Visitor
Talk to your doctor or to a medical spe- Information,” earlier in this chapter, for
information on the latest U.S. State
cialist in tropical diseases about precau-
tions you should take. You can also get Department advisories.
medical bulletins from the U.S. State Precautions are necessary, but travelers
Department and the Centers for Disease should be realistic. Common sense is
Control and Prevention (see “Visitor essential. You can generally trust people
Information,” earlier). You can protect whom you approach for help or direc-
yourself by taking some simple precau- tions—but be wary of anyone who
tions: Watch what you eat and drink; approaches you offering the same. The
don’t swim in stagnant water (ponds, more insistent the person is, the more
slow-moving rivers, or wells); and avoid cautious you should be. The crime rate is,
mosquito bites by covering up, using on the whole, much lower in Mexico
than in most parts of the United States,
repellent, and sleeping under netting. The
most dangerous areas seem to be on Mex- and the nature of crimes in general is less
violent. Random, violent, or serial crime
ico’s west coast, away from the big resorts.
is essentially unheard of in Mexico. You
STAYING SAFE are much more likely to meet kind and
CRIME I have lived and traveled in helpful Mexicans than you are to
Mexico for over a decade, have never encounter those set on thievery and
had any serious trouble, and rarely feel

Tips Over-the-Counter Drugs in Mexico

Antibiotics and other drugs that you’d need a prescription to buy in the States
are available over the counter in Mexican pharmacies. Mexican pharmacies also
carry a limited selection of common over-the-counter cold, sinus, and allergy
remedies.
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H E A LT H & S A F E T Y 21

Tips Treating & Avoiding Digestive Trouble

It’s called “travelers’ diarrhea” or turista, the Spanish word for “tourist”:
persistent diarrhea, often accompanied by fever, nausea, and vomiting, that
used to attack many travelers to Mexico. (Some in the U.S. call this “Mon-
tezuma’s revenge,” but you won’t hear it called that in Mexico.) Wide-
spread improvements in infrastructure, sanitation, and education have
practically eliminated this ailment, especially in well-developed resort areas.
Most travelers make a habit of drinking only bottled water, which also helps
to protect against unfamiliar bacteria. In resort areas, and generally
throughout Mexico, only purified ice is used. If you do come down with this
ailment, nothing beats Pepto Bismol, readily available in Mexico. Imodium
is also available in Mexico and is used by many travelers for a quick fix. A
good high-potency (or “therapeutic”) vitamin supplement and even extra
vitamin C can help; yogurt is good for healthy digestion.
Since dehydration can quickly become life threatening, the Public Health
Service advises that you be careful to replace fluids and electrolytes (potas-
sium, sodium, and the like) during a bout of diarrhea. Drink Pedialyte, a
rehydration solution available at most Mexican pharmacies, or natural fruit
juice, such as guava or apple (stay away from orange juice, which has laxa-
tive properties), with a pinch of salt added.
How to Prevent It: The U.S. Public Health Service recommends the follow-
ing measures for preventing travelers’ diarrhea: Drink only purified water
(boiled water, canned or bottled beverages, beer, or wine). Choose food
carefully. In general, avoid salads (except in first-class restaurants),
uncooked vegetables, undercooked protein, and unpasteurized milk or milk
products, including cheese. Choose food that is freshly cooked and still hot.
In addition, something as simple as clean hands can go a long way toward
preventing turista.

deceit. (See also “Emergencies” under with the situation. Even if you speak
“Fast Facts,” later in this chapter.) Spanish, don’t utter a word of it to Mexi-
BRIBES & SCAMS As is the case can officials. That way you’ll appear
around the world, there are the occasional innocent, all the while understanding
bribes and scams in Mexico, targeted at every word.
people believed to be naive—such as the When you are crossing the border,
telltale tourist. For years Mexico was should the person who inspects your car
known as a place where bribes—called ask for a tip, you can ignore this
mordidas (bites)—were expected; how- request—but understand that the official
ever, the country is rapidly changing. Fre- may suddenly decide that a complete
quently, offering a bribe today, especially search of your belongings is in order. If
to a police officer, is considered an insult, faced with a situation where you feel
and it can land you in deeper trouble. you’re being asked for a propina (literally,
If you believe a bribe is being “tip”; colloquially, “bribe”), how much
requested, here are a few tips on dealing should you offer? Usually $3 to $5 or the
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22 C H A P T E R 2 . P L A N N I N G YO U R T R I P TO L O S C A B O S & BA JA

equivalent in pesos will do the trick. As you travel in Mexico, you may
Many tourists have the impression that encounter several types of scams, which
everything works better in Mexico if you are typical throughout the world. One
“tip”; however, in reality, this only perpet- involves some kind of a distraction or
uates the mordida attitude. If you are feigned commotion. While your atten-
pleased with a service, feel free to tip, but tion is diverted, a pickpocket makes a
you shouldn’t tip simply to attempt to get grab for your wallet. In another common
away with something illegal or inappro- scam, an unaccompanied child pretends
priate, whether it is crossing the border to be lost and frightened and takes your
without having your car inspected or not hand for safety. Meanwhile the child or
getting a ticket that’s deserved. an accomplice plunders your pockets. A
Whatever you do, avoid impoliteness; third involves confusing currency. A
under no circumstances should you insult shoeshine boy, street musician, guide, or
a Latin American official. Extreme polite- other individual might offer you a service
ness, even in the face of adversity, rules for a price that seems reasonable—in
Mexico. In Mexico, gringos have a reputa- pesos. When it comes time to pay, he or
tion for being loud and demanding. By she tells you the price is in dollars, not
adopting the local custom of excessive pesos. Be very clear on the price and cur-
courtesy, you’ll have greater success in rency when services are involved.
negotiations of any kind. Stand your
ground, but do it politely.

7 Specialized Travel Resources

FAMILY TRAVEL Cribs, however, may present a prob-
I can’t think of a better place to introduce lem—only the largest and most luxurious
children to the exciting adventure of hotels provide them. Rollaway beds are
exploring a different culture. Among the often available for children staying in the
best destinations for children in Mexico is room with parents. Child seats or high
La Paz (see chapter 5). The larger hotels in chairs at restaurants are common, and
Los Cabos can often arrange for a babysit- most restaurants will go out of their way
ter. Some hotels in the moderate-to-lux- to accommodate your child.
ury range have small playgrounds and Because many travelers to Baja will
pools for children and hire caretakers with rent a car, it is advisable to bring your car
special activity programs during the day. seat. Leasing agencies in Mexico do not
Few budget hotels offer these amenities. rent car seats.
Before leaving, you should check with Every country’s regulations differ, but
your doctor to get advice on medications in general children traveling abroad
to take along. Disposable diapers cost should have plenty of documentation on
about the same in Mexico but are of hand, particularly if they’re traveling with
poorer quality. You can get Huggies someone other than their own parents (in
Supreme and Pampers identical to the which case a notarized form letter from a
ones sold in the United States, but at a parent is often required). For details on
higher price. Many stores sell Gerber’s entry requirements for children traveling
baby foods. Dry cereals, powdered for- abroad, go to the U.S. State Department
mulas, baby bottles, and purified water website (travel.state.gov/foreignentryreqs.
are all easily available in midsize and large htm).
cities or resorts. Throughout this book, the “Kids”
icon distinguishes attractions, hotels,
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S P E C I A L I Z E D T R AV E L R E S O U R C E S 23

restaurants, and other destinations that without handrails abound. Few restrooms
are particularly attractive and accommo- are equipped for travelers with disabili-
dating to children and families. ties; when one is available, access to it
Familyhostel (& 800/733-9753; may be through a narrow passage that
www.learn.unh.edu/familyhostel) takes won’t accommodate a wheelchair or a
the whole family, including kids ages 8 to person on crutches. Many deluxe hotels
15, on moderately priced domestic and (the most expensive) now have rooms
international learning vacations. Lec- with bathrooms for people with disabili-
tures, fields trips, and sightseeing are ties. Those traveling on a budget should
guided by a team of academics. stick with one-story hotels or hotels with
Recommended family travel Internet elevators. Even so, there will probably still
sites include Family Travel Forum be obstacles somewhere. Generally speak-
(www.familytravelforum.com), a com- ing, no matter where you are, someone
prehensive site that offers customized trip will lend a hand, although you may have
planning; Family Travel Network (www. to ask for it.
familytravelnetwork.com), an award-win- Most disabilities shouldn’t stop anyone
ning site that offers travel features, deals, from traveling. There are more options
and tips; Traveling Internationally with and resources out there than ever before.
Your Kids (www.travelwithyourkids. Many travel agencies offer customized
com), a comprehensive site offering tours and itineraries for travelers with dis-
sound advice for long-distance and inter- abilities. Flying Wheels Travel (& 507/
national travel with children; and Family 451-5005; www.flyingwheelstravel.com)
Travel Files (www.thefamilytravelfiles. offers escorted tours and cruises that
com), which offers an online magazine emphasize sports and private tours in
and a directory of off-the-beaten-path minivans with lifts. Access-Able Travel
tours and tour operators for families. Source (& 303/232-2979; www.access-
able.com) offers extensive access informa-
TRAVELERS WITH DISABILITIES tion and advice for traveling around the
Mexico may seem like one giant obstacle world with disabilities. Accessible Jour-
course to travelers in wheelchairs or on neys (& 800/846-4537 or 610/521-
crutches. At airports, you may encounter 0339; www.disabilitytravel.com) caters
steep stairs before finding a well-hidden specifically to slow walkers and wheel-
elevator or escalator—if one exists. Air- chair travelers and their families and
lines will often arrange wheelchair assis- friends.
tance to the baggage area. Porters are Organizations that offer assistance to
generally available to help with luggage at disabled travelers include MossRehab
airports and large bus stations, once (www.mossresourcenet.org), which pro-
you’ve cleared baggage claim. vides a library of accessible-travel resources
Mexican airports are upgrading their online; SATH (Society for Accessible
services, but it is not uncommon to board Travel & Hospitality; & 212/447-7284;
from a remote position, meaning you www.sath.org; annual membership fees:
either descend stairs to a bus that ferries $45 adults, $30 seniors and students),
you to the plane, which you board by which offers a wealth of travel resources for
climbing stairs, or you walk across the all types of disabilities and informed rec-
tarmac to your plane and ascend the ommendations on destinations, access
stairs. Deplaning presents the same prob- guides, travel agents, tour operators, vehi-
lem in reverse. cle rentals, and companion services; and
Escalators (and there aren’t many in the American Foundation for the Blind
the country) are often out of order. Stairs
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(AFB) (& 800/232-5463; www.afb.org), programs, many hotels still offer discounts
a referral resource for the blind or visually for seniors.
impaired that includes information on Members of AARP (formerly known as
traveling with Seeing Eye dogs. the American Association of Retired Per-
For more information specifically tar- sons), 601 E St. NW, Washington, DC
geted to travelers with disabilities, the 20049 (& 888/687-2277; www.aarp.
community website iCan (www.ican org), get discounts on hotels, airfares, and
online.net/channels/travel/index.cfm) car rentals. AARP offers members a wide
has destination guides and several regular range of benefits, including AARP: The
columns on accessible travel. Also check Magazine and a monthly newsletter. Any-
out the quarterly magazine Emerging one over 50 can join.
Horizons ($15 per year, $20 outside the Many reliable agencies and organiza-
U.S.; www.emerginghorizons.com); and tions target the 50-plus market. Elderhos-
Open World magazine, published by tel (& 877/426-8056; www.elderhostel.
SATH (see above; subscription: $13 per org) arranges study programs for those
year, $21 outside the U.S.). aged 55 and over (and a spouse or com-
panion of any age) in the U.S. and in more
SENIOR TRAVEL than 80 countries around the world. Most
Mexico is a popular country for retirees. courses last 5 to 7 days in the U.S. (2–4
For decades, North Americans have been weeks abroad), and many include airfare,
living indefinitely in Mexico by returning accommodations in university dormitories
to the border and re-crossing with a new or modest inns, meals, and tuition.
tourist permit every 6 months. Mexican ElderTreks (& 800/741-7956; www.
immigration officials have caught on, and eldertreks.com) offers small-group tours to
now limit the maximum time in the off-the-beaten-path or adventure-travel
country to 6 months within any year. locations, restricted to travelers 50 and
This is to encourage even partial residents older. INTRAV (& 800/456-8100; www.
to acquire proper documentation. intrav.com) is a high-end tour operator
Some of the most popular places for that caters to the mature, discerning trav-
long-term stays in Baja are in the mid- eler, not specifically seniors, with trips
Baja region, including Loreto and around the world that include guided
Mulegé. Also, northern Baja is becoming safaris, polar expeditions, private-jet
a popular place, especially around the adventures, and small-boat cruises down
Ensenada region. jungle rivers.
AIM, Apdo. Postal 31–70, 45050 Recommended publications offering
Guadalajara, Jal., is a well-written, travel resources and discounts for seniors
informative newsletter for prospective include: the quarterly magazine Travel
retirees. Subscriptions are $18 to the 50 & Beyond (www.travel50andbeyond.
United States and $21 to Canada. Back com); Travel Unlimited: Uncommon
issues are three for $5. Adventures for the Mature Traveler
Sanborn Tours, 2015 S. 10th St., Post (Avalon); 101 Tips for Mature Travel-
Office Drawer 519, McAllen, TX ers, available from Grand Circle Travel
78505-0519 (& 800/395-8482), offers a (& 800/221-2610 or 617/350-7500;
“Retire in Mexico” orientation tour. www.gct.com); and Unbelievably Good
Mention the fact that you’re a senior cit- Deals and Great Adventures That You
izen when you make your travel reserva- Absolutely Can’t Get Unless You’re Over
tions. Although all of the major U.S. 50 (McGraw-Hill), by Joann Rattner
airlines except America West have canceled Heilman.
their senior discount and coupon-book
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S P E C I A L I Z E D T R AV E L R E S O U R C E S 25

GAY & LESBIAN TRAVELERS the global gay and lesbian scene; Sparta-
Mexico is a conservative country, with cus International Gay Guide (Bruno
deeply rooted Catholic religious tradi- Gmünder Verlag; www.spartacusworld.
tions. Public displays of same-sex affec- com/gayguide) and Odysseus: The Inter-
tion are rare and still considered shocking national Gay Travel Planner (Odysseus
for men, especially outside of urban or Enterprises Ltd.), both good, annual
resort areas. Women in Mexico fre- English-language guidebooks focused on
quently walk hand in hand, but anything gay men; the Damron guides (www.
more would cross the boundary of damron.com), with separate, annual books
acceptability. However, gay and lesbian for gay men and lesbians; and Gay Travel
travelers are generally treated with respect A to Z: The World of Gay & Lesbian
and should not experience any harass- Travel Options at Your Fingertips by
ment, assuming they give the appropriate Marianne Ferrari (Ferrari International;
regard to local culture and customs. Box 35575, Phoenix, AZ 85069), a very
The International Gay and Lesbian good gay and lesbian guidebook series.
Travel Association (IGLTA) (& 800/
448-8550 or 954/776-2626; www.iglta.
STUDENT TRAVEL
Because Mexicans consider higher educa-
org) is the trade association for the gay
tion more a luxury than a birthright, there
and lesbian travel industry, and offers an
is no formal network of student discounts
online directory of gay- and lesbian-
and programs. Most Mexican students
friendly travel businesses; go to their web-
travel with their families rather than with
site and click on “Members.”
other students, so student discount cards
Many agencies offer tours and travel
are not commonly recognized.
itineraries specifically for gay and lesbian
If you’re a student planning to travel
travelers. Above and Beyond Tours
outside the U.S., you’d be wise to arm
(& 800/397-2681; www.abovebeyond
yourself with an International Student
tours.com) is the exclusive gay and les-
Identity Card (ISIC), which offers sub-
bian tour operator for United Airlines.
stantial savings on rail passes, plane tick-
Now, Voyager (& 800/255-6951; www.
ets, and entrance fees. It also provides you
nowvoyager.com) is a well-known San
with basic health and life insurance and a
Francisco–based gay-owned and -oper-
24-hour help line. The card is available
ated travel service. Olivia Cruises &
for $22 from STA Travel (& 800/781-
Resorts (& 800/631-6277; www.olivia.
4040 in North America; www.sta.com),
com) charters entire resorts and ships for
the biggest student travel agency in the
exclusive lesbian vacations and offers
world. If you’re no longer a student but
smaller group experiences for both gay
are still under 26, you can get a Interna-
and lesbian travelers.
tional Youth Travel Card (IYTC) for the
The following travel guides are avail-
same price from the same people, which
able at most travel bookstores and gay
entitles you to some discounts (but not
and lesbian bookstores, or you can order
on museum admissions). (Note: In 2002,
them from Giovanni’s Room bookstore,
STA Travel bought competitors Council
1145 Pine St., Philadelphia, PA 19107
Travel and USIT Campus after they
(& 215/923-2960; www.giovannisroom.
went bankrupt. It’s still operating some
com): Out and About (& 800/929-
offices under the Council name, but it’s
2268; www.gay.com), which offers guide-
owned by STA.) Travel CUTS (& 800/
books and a newsletter ($20 a year; 10
667-2887 or 416/614-2887; www.travel
issues) packed with solid information on
cuts.com) offers similar services for both
Canadians and U.S. residents.
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Tips Advice for Female Travelers

As a female traveling alone, I can tell you firsthand that I feel safer traveling in
Mexico than in the United States. But I use the same common-sense precau-
tions I follow traveling anywhere else in the world and am alert to what’s going
on around me.
Mexicans in general, and men in particular, are nosy about single travelers,
especially women. If a taxi driver or anyone else with whom you don’t want to
become friendly asks about your marital status, family, and so forth, my advice
is to make up a set of answers (regardless of the truth): “I’m married, traveling
with friends, and I have three children.” Saying you are single and traveling
alone may send the wrong message. U.S. television—widely viewed now in
Mexico—has given many Mexican men the image of American single women as
being sexually promiscuous. Check out the award-winning website Journey-
woman (www.journeywoman.com), a “real-life” women’s travel information
network where you can sign up for a free e-mail newsletter and get advice on
everything from etiquette and dress to safety; or the travel guide Safety and
Security for Women Who Travel by Sheila Swan and Peter Laufer (Travelers’
Tales, Inc.), offering common-sense tips on safe travel.

8 Planning Your Trip Online

SURFING FOR AIRFARES airlines, you can often shave a few bucks
The “big three” online travel agencies, from a fare by booking directly through
Expedia, Travelocity, and Orbitz, sell the airline and avoiding a travel agency’s
most of the air tickets bought on the transaction fee. But you’ll get these dis-
Internet. (Canadian travelers should try counts only by booking online: Most
expedia.ca and Travelocity.ca; U.K. resi- airlines now offer online-only fares that
dents can go for expedia.co.uk and even their phone agents know nothing
opodo.co.uk.) Each has different business about. For the websites of airlines that fly
deals with the airlines and may offer dif- to and from your destination, go to “Get-
ferent fares on the same flights, so it’s wise ting There,” below.
to shop around. Expedia and Travelocity Great last-minute deals are available
will also send you e-mail notification through free weekly e-mail services pro-
when a cheap fare becomes available to vided directly by the airlines. Most of
your favorite destination. Of the smaller these are announced on Tuesday or
travel agency websites, SideStep (www. Wednesday and must be purchased
sidestep.com) has gotten the best reviews online. Most are only valid for travel that
from Frommer’s authors. It’s a browser weekend, but some (such as Southwest’s)
add-on that purports to “search 140 sites can be booked weeks or months in
at once,” but in reality only beats com- advance. Sign up for weekly e-mail alerts
petitors’ fares as often as other sites do. at airline websites or check megasites that
Also remember to check airline web- compile comprehensive lists of last-
sites, especially those for low-fare carriers minute specials, such as SmarterTravel.
such as Southwest or STS, whose fares are com. For last-minute trips, site59.com
often misreported or simply missing from and lastminutetravel.com in the U.S.
travel agency websites. Even with major and lastminute.com in Europe often
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P L A N N I N G YO U R T R I P O N L I N E 27

have better air-and-hotel package deals (or a fare-service agency like Priceline; see
than the major-label sites. A website list-
below). These Internet hotel agencies
ing numerous bargain sites and airlines have multiplied in mind-boggling num-
around the world is www.itravelnet.com. bers of late, competing for the business of
If you’re willing to give up some con-
millions of consumers surfing for accom-
trol over your flight details, use what is
modations around the world. This com-
called an “opaque” fare service like petitiveness can be a boon to consumers
Priceline (www.priceline.com; www. who have the patience and time to shop
priceline.co.uk for Europeans) or its and compare the online sites for good
smaller competitor Hotwire (www. deals—but shop they must, for prices can
hotwire.com). Both offer rock-bottom vary considerably from site to site. And
prices in exchange for travel on a “mys-keep in mind that hotels at the top of a
tery airline” at a mysterious time of day,
site’s listing may be there for no other rea-
often with a mysterious change of planesson than that they paid money to get the
en route. The mystery airlines are all placement.
major, well-known carriers—and the pos- Of the “big three” sites, Expedia offers
sibility of being sent from Philadelphia to
a long list of special deals and “virtual
Chicago via Tampa is remote; the airlines’
tours” or photos of available rooms so
routing computers have gotten a lot bet-you can see what you’re paying for (a fea-
ter than they used to be. But your chances
ture that helps counter the claims that the
of getting a 6am or 11pm flight are pretty
best rooms are often held back from bar-
high. Hotwire tells you flight prices gain booking websites). Travelocity posts
before you buy; Priceline usually has bet-
unvarnished customer reviews and ranks
ter deals than Hotwire, but you have to its properties according to the AAA rating
play their “name our price” game. If system. Also reliable are Hotels.com and
you’re new at this, the helpful folks atQuikbook.com. An excellent free pro-
BiddingForTravel (www.biddingfor
gram, TravelAxe (www.travelaxe.net),
travel.com) do a good job of demystifying
can help you search multiple hotel sites at
Priceline’s prices and strategies. Priceline
once, even ones you may never have
and Hotwire are great for flights withinheard of—and conveniently lists the total
North America and between the U.S. and price of the room, including the taxes and
Europe. But for flights to other parts of
service charges. Another booking site,
the world, consolidators will almost Travelweb (www.travelweb.com), is
always beat their fares. Note: In 2004 partly owned by the hotels it represents
Priceline added nonopaque service to its(including the Hilton, Hyatt, and Star-
roster. You now have the option to pick wood chains) and is therefore plugged
exact flights, times, and airlines from a
directly into the hotels’ reservations sys-
list of offers—or opt to bid on opaque tems—unlike independent online agen-
fares as before. cies, which have to fax or e-mail
For much more about airfares and reservation requests to the hotel, a good
savvy air-travel tips and advice, pick up a
portion of which get misplaced in the
copy of Frommer’s Fly Safe, Fly Smart shuffle. More than once, travelers have
(Wiley Publishing, Inc.). arrived at the hotel, only to be told that
they have no reservation.
SURFING FOR HOTELS To be fair, many of the major sites are
Shopping online for hotels is generally undergoing improvements in service and
done one of two ways: by booking ease of use, and Expedia will soon be able
through the hotel’s own website or to plug directly into the reservations
through an independent booking agency
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systems of many hotel chains—none of confirmation number and make a print-

which can be bad news for consumers. In out of any online booking transaction.
the meantime, it’s a good idea to get a

9 Getting There
BY PLANE BY CAR
The airline situation in Mexico is rapidly Driving is not the cheapest way to get to
improving, with many new regional carri- Mexico, but it is the best way to see the
ers offering scheduled service to areas pre- country. Even so, you may think twice
viously not served. In addition to about taking your own car south of the
regularly scheduled service, charter serv- border once you’ve pondered the bureau-
ice direct from U.S. cities to resorts is cracy involved. One option is to rent a car
making Mexico more accessible. For once you arrive and tour around a specific
information about saving money on air- region. Rental cars in Mexico are gener-
fares using the Internet, see “Planning ally new, clean, and well maintained.
Your Trip Online,” above. Although they’re pricier than in the
THE MAJOR INTERNATIONAL United States, discounts are often avail-
AIRLINES The main airlines operat- able for rentals of a week or longer, espe-
ing direct or nonstop flights from the cially when you make arrangements in
United States to points in Baja include advance from the United States. (See
AeroCalifornia (& 800/237-6225; www. “Car Rentals,” later in this chapter, for
reservaciones.com/airlines/aerocalifornia), more details.)
Aeromexico (& 800/237-6639; www. If, after reading the section that fol-
aeromexico.com), Alaska Airlines lows, you have additional questions or
(& 800/252-7522; www.alaskaair.com), you want to confirm the current rules,
America West (& 800/235-9292; www. call your nearest Mexican consulate or the
americawest.com), American Airlines Mexican Government Tourist Office.
(& 800/433-7300; www.aa.com), Conti- Although travel insurance companies are
nental (& 800/525-0280; www. generally helpful, they may not have the
continental.com), Frontier Airlines most accurate information. To check on
(& 800/432-1359; www.frontierairlines. road conditions or to get help with any
com), Mexicana (& 800/531-7921; travel emergency while in Mexico, call
www.mexicana.com), Northwest/KLM & 01-800/903-9200, or 555/250-0151
(& 800/225-2525; www.nwa.com), in Mexico City. English-speaking opera-
United (& 800/241-6522; www.united. tors staff both numbers.
com), and US Airways (& 800/428- In addition, check with the U.S. State
4322; www.usairways.com). Southwest Department (see “Visitor Information,”
Airlines (& 800/435-9792; www.ifly earlier in this chapter) for warnings about
swa.com) serves San Diego. dangerous driving areas.
The main departure points in North CAR DOCUMENTS To drive your
America for international airlines are car into Mexico (even for the day), you’ll
Atlanta, Chicago, Dallas/Fort Worth, need a temporary car-importation per-
Denver, Houston, Los Angeles, Las mit, which is granted after you provide a
Vegas, Miami, New York, Orlando, required list of documents (see below).
Philadelphia, Phoenix, Raleigh/Durham, The permit can be obtained through
San Antonio, San Francisco, Seattle, Banco del Ejército (Banjercito) officials,
Toronto, and Washington, D.C. who have a desk, booth, or office at the
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GETTING THERE 29

Tips Carrying Car Documents

You must carry your temporary car-importation permit, tourist permit (see
“Entry Requirements,” earlier in this chapter), and, if you purchased it, your
proof of Mexican car insurance (see below) in the car at all times. The tempo-
rary car-importation permit papers will be issued for 6 months to a year; the
tourist permit is usually issued for 30 days. It’s a good idea to overestimate the
time you’ll spend in Mexico, so that if something unforeseen happens and you
have to (or want to) stay longer, you’ll avoid the hassle of getting your papers
extended. Whatever you do, don’t overstay either permit. Doing so invites
heavy fines and confiscation of your vehicle, which will not be returned.
Remember also that 6 months does not necessarily work out to be 180 days.

Mexican Customs (aduana) building • A signed declaration promising to

after you cross the border into Mexico. return to your country of origin
The following strict requirements for with the vehicle. Obtain this form
border crossing were accurate at press (Carta Promesa de Retorno) from AAA
time: or Sanborn’s before you go, or from
• A valid driver’s license, issued out- Banjercito officials at the border.
side of Mexico. There’s no charge. The form does not
• Current, original car registration stipulate that you must return by the
and a copy of the original car title. same border entry through which
If the registration or title is in more you entered.
than one name and not all the named • Temporary Importation Applica-
people are traveling with you, a nota- tion. By signing this form, you state
rized letter from the absent person(s) that you are only temporarily import-
authorizing use of the vehicle for the ing the car for your personal use and
trip is required; have it ready. The will not be selling it. This is to help
registration and your credit card (see regulate the entry and restrict the
below) must be in the same name. resale of unauthorized cars and
• A valid international major credit trucks. Make sure the permit is can-
card. With a credit card, you are celed when you return to the U.S.
required to pay only a $23 car-impor- If you receive your documentation at
tation fee. The credit card must be in the border, Mexican officials will make
the same name as the car registration. two copies of everything and charge you
If you do not have a major credit card for the copies. For up-to-the-minute infor-
(American Express, Diners Club, mation, a great source is the Customs
MasterCard, or Visa), you must post office in Nuevo Laredo, or Módulo de
a bond or make a deposit equal to the Importación Temporal de Automóviles, Adu-
value of the vehicle. Check cards are ana Nuevo Laredo (& 867/712-2071).
not accepted. Important reminder: Someone else
• Original immigration documenta- may drive, but the person (or relative of
tion. This is either your tourist permit the person) whose name appears on the
(FMT) or the original immigration car-importation permit must always be in
booklet, FM2 or FM3, if you hold the car. (If stopped by police, a non-regis-
more permanent status. tered family member driving without the
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registered driver must be prepared to MEXICAN AUTO INSURANCE

prove familial relationship to the regis- Liability auto insurance is legally required
tered driver—no joke.) Violation of this in Mexico. U.S. insurance is invalid; to be
rule subjects the car to impoundment insured in Mexico, you must purchase
and the driver to imprisonment, a fine, or Mexican insurance. Any party involved in
both. You can drive a car with foreign an accident who has no insurance may be
license plates only if you have a foreign sent to jail and have his or her car
(non-Mexican) driver’s license. impounded until all claims are settled.

See Baja by Boat: Cruising the Sea of Cortez

John Steinbeck made this journey famous, recording his observations and
philosophies on a 4,000-mile expedition during which he collected marine
specimens in the 1951 classic The Log from the Sea of Cortez. These days, a
few companies offer small-ship cruises from Cabo San Lucas north to the
colonial town of Santa Rosalía, an ideal way to sample the best of Baja. Any
travel agent can price or book Sea of Cortez cruises.
Cruise West (& 800/888-9378 or 206/441-8687 in the U.S.; fax 206/441-
4757; www.cruisewest.com) offers several voyages that explore the interior
Baja coast. Along the way, the ship pulls into small, pristine coves where
passengers can participate in nature walks, hiking, snorkeling, and kayak-
ing. One itinerary has stops at Loreto, Santa Rosalía, Mulegé, and La Paz,
and an overland side trip to Bahía Magdalena for a day of whale-watching.
There are two ships: the 65m (213-ft.) Spirit of Endeavor, with 51 cabins, all
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Exploring the Variety of Random
Documents with Different Content
 43- ArchcFologica! Rcsea7'ches in Palestine. 3. A small lion
of massive gold, in the Egyptian style, crouching, its front paws
stretched out ; length about o™'02. To the back f^^T^ a ring is
attached for hanging up. On the base is carved /~r~^v^ a
cartouche containing hieroglyphics, of which I took a copy ^ ' ,1 .^
The legend reads : {A)men-Rd, paniti tui, "Ammon-Ra, the
enneadian,* god of the two lands." My learned confrere M. Maspero
has been kind enough to send me the following note on the subject
of this monument : — The legend Cb l^^ = contains a fault : the
engraver has omitted the initial [I {a) of the name (l^^^' (Aincfi-
Ra). It gives one of the most frequent titles of Amonra, the one
which fixes his suzerainty over all the other gods of Egypt : = Paiiiti
tui, which signifies, He zvho belongs to the Paiiit, or He zvlio is the
Paiat, of the two countries ; and the Pauit ^< *^ ■ 0 is the N'ine,
the Ennead of the great creative gods {Rd, Shu-Tafnitit, Sibu-Nuit,
Osiris-Isis, Set-Nepkthys, who organized the world into its present
condition). To say that Amon is at their head, or that he contains
them in himself, is as much as to proclaim the superiority of Amon
over them all, and consequently over the gods who are less than
they. The form ?Qs of the disc only becomes common after the Saite
period, about the 8th century, which may furnish an approximate
date for the manufacture of the object.t Sarcophagus. — On the
seashore near the Quarantine building there has been recently
discovered in the sand a large __ ^-^, .—^ — r-^ circular well built
with squared stones, in front m^\ ^ -^ iTn*ri' i' f v ] of it, to serve
as a trough, there has been placed « ,1' 'h 'n \ 'ik}S \ a small
sarcophagus, cut out of a block of cal- *&-*-i- . •„-'.. ,^: '" careous
conglomerate mixed with shells, and measuring about i'"'05 by
o'""40. Bronze Articles. — In going over the bazaar I saw in the
possession of the goldsmiths various rather curious small bronze
articles, found at Gaza itself or in the neighbourhood. The first was a
small figurine o"''o6 long, either an ape, or a fantastic quadruped
with a human head ; the feet and hands are broken. The style is
rude, and the age of the «RONZE FIGURE OT o^iject difficult to
determine. '^''^ ''*■ Next, two '=.m?\\ protomes or snspcnsible
bttsts, hollowed out behind, each o'""02 5 in height. * That is to say,
" the chief of the group of the nine gods." t The formula even
becomes very frequent in the Ptolemaic period.
 From Jerusalem to Sebaste {Samaria), and from Sebaste to
Gaza. 433 WINGED EROS (BRONZE). GODDESS ARTEMIS OR
ASTARTE (BRONZE). Each of the busts has fixed on its head a ring
to hang it up by. One represents a winged Eros, the other a
goddess, Artemis or Astarte, wearing a diadem. They remind one of
those busts of divinities which in Greek and Roman antiquity served
as counterpoises in the balances that worked on the lever principle.
The weight of these, however, appears too small to warrant the
supposition that they were intended for this purpose.* Lastly, a
bronze mirror, in the shape of a flat round box, o"''i5 in diameter,
ornamented with concentric circles in relief and provided with a
movable handle. It is a specimen of the ancient mirror with a lid,
formed of two discs fitting one into the other, a type that has been
continued down to the present day in the small mirrors sold by
pedlars. HANDLE OF A BRONZE MIRROR. ANCIENT BRONZE
MIRROR WITH LID. By the side of it an engraving is given of a
handle belonging to a similar mirror. * Later (in 1881) I acquired two
other similar objects from the same source (see my Rapports siir une
mission en Palestine entreprise en rS8i, p. 92, No. Ill, A and B). 3 ^
 434 ArclKTological Researches in Palestine. Tlic Hill of cl
MiDildr. Legends. — Just a little south-east of Gaza there stands a
hill, which corresponds perhaps to the necropolis of ancient Gaza. To
judge by the traditions attaching to it, it appears to have played an
important part in the history and topography of that illustrious town.
It bears to-day the name of Jcbcl el Muntdr, well adapted to its
characteristic features, for it evidently means " the mountain of the
look-out," nntntdr, ,lkJv.c, from the root .L; = 10; (Aram.), meaning
"post of observation, look-out." But, as I shall shortly show, the
name may possibly be anterior to the Arab conquest. In any case
two curious and divergent legends that I have picked up at Gaza
agree in declaring that the real name of the hill is not Jebel el
Mtintdr but Jebel el Mutrdn (^^Lkt), " the mountain of the bishop."
This is at all events an indication that this name, with which popular
imagination has been so busy, is likely to be one of a certain
antiquity. Here are the two legends. There was of old time at Gaza a
certain bishop, detested by his flock. One day when he was lying ill
in bed (at Jebel el Muntar), a plot was made to put under his couch
some women's drawers [sherwdl), with the view of accusing him
afterwards of having taken a woman into his house and broken the
law of chastity. The indignant bishop cursed the inhabitants, saying
that their numbers should never exceed forty. From that time the
place was called Muntdr instead of Mutrdn. According to the other
legend, the present wely dedicated to 'Aly el Muntar, on Jebel el
Muntar, contains the tomb of a former Bishop of Gaza, whose
ecclesiastical jurisdiction extended over Gaza, Ascalon, Esdud, and
Beit Jibrin. The Mussulmans declare that the ghost of a rdheb
(monk) is still seen there after nightfall, going round the mountain
with a censer in his hand and scattering incense. The name Jebel el
Mnntdr is accounted a corruption o{ Jebel el Ahttrdn, "the mountain
of the bishop." It may be that these legends point more or less
directly to the personality of the celebrated Bishop of Gaza, St.
Porphyry, w^ho destroyed the numerous sanctuaries of Marnas, one
of which, as I just now observed, may have been situated on Jebel
el Muntar.* * It must not be lost sight of that the name Miitran
might have been attached to the hill before the appearance of the
Arabs ; the Arabic word miiiran, " bishop," is borrowed letter for
letter from the Syriac M'lfran or RTiiiron, that is to say, from an
Aramaic dialect closely resembling that which was still spoken at
Gaza in the fifth century of our era, as is shown by several curious
passages in the Lift of St. Porphyry. Muntar likewise, as I have said
above, is a word of Aramaic formation,
 From J ent salon to Sebaste {Samaria), and from Sebastc
to Gaza. 435 I shall not stop to consider how far those theories are
based on truth which make out the Jebel el Muntar to be the
mountain " over against Hebron," to the top of which Samson is said
to have carried the gates of Gaza. In the Life of St. Porphyry it is
stated that the Zeus Marnas of Gaza was worshipped in the open air
on a hill lying near the town and on the eastern side, called
Aldioma.* I am rather inclined to think that this holy hill was our
Jebel el Muntar, with the fables attaching to it. The puzzling name
AXStw/xa, if not mutilated by the copyists, may bear some relation
to 'AXSif/xios and "AXSo?, surnames of Marnas. Here perhaps should
also be located the place spoken of in the Talmud by the name Yerid
or Atliz, Atluz, situated outside Gaza, where an idol was worshipped.
During the Greeco- Roman period strange legends became attached
to Gaza ; v^arious ancient writers mention them, and traces of them
can be found on the coins of the town. They relate, on the one
hand, to lo and her heifer, on the other to Minos of Crete. I cannot
here undertake to discuss the origin of these legfends, thougfh I
have accumulated a series of notes relating to them. I will content
myself with remarking that possibly some more or less arbitrary
etymological connection may have been set up between the name of
the Minotaur and that of Jebel el Mtmtdr, alias Mutrdn. A last echo of
these legends about the fabulous origin of Gaza appears to linger on
in the Arab writers, when Yakut relates, following Abu '1 Mundher,
that Ghazza (Gaza) was " the wife of Silr, who built Tyre (Sur)."
According to the Chronicon Paschale, the Emperor Hadrian, after the
defeat of Bar Cochba, brought the Jewish prisoners to Gaza to sell
them there, and on this occasion instituted a great annual feast, a
regular fair, Tj-a^-rjyvpi?, which still existed in the writer's time,
under the name of 'ASpiai'r;. It may be that the memory of this
custom has been maintained in the great feast or fair, -maousem,
held yearly at Gaza, at Bab ed-Darun (or Darftm), and called by the
Mussulmans 'Id en A^asdra, " the Feast of the Christians." It causes
a great influx of people from all the country round, and is the
occasion of a market of considerable size. This year it fell on the loth
of Shabbat (February). Thabatha and the Convent of St. Hilarion. —
In the Life of St. Hilarion repeated mention is made of a township in
the neighbourhood of Gaza, called * 'Ktt'o \6(pov -oil \c-/ofici'ov
nXciwfiaro? t'f nvaToXiii' t//? ttoXcivs. (^DeaCOU Mark, cll. X (?), ed.
Haupt.)
 436 ArcJtarological Researches in Palestine. Thabatha, the
native place of the illustrious anchorite. No really satisfactory
identification appears as yet to have been suggested for this. It may
be gathered from the indications handed down to us by St. Jerome,
Sozomenos, Theodosius, and Antoninus of Placentia, that Thabatha
was five miles south of Gaza, near a river of the same name, and
not far from its mouth ; and that twenty stadia from Thabatha, on
the sea shore, was the desert place where St. Hilarion passed his
hermit life, and where the convent stood in which he was buried. St.
Jerome places St. Hilarion's retreat at seven miles from Gaza on the
coast, and Antoninus of Placentia locates his burial place at the same
distance. All these data obviously harmonize. Having stated thus
much, I propose to identify Thabatha with Tell el 'Ajjul, situated five
miles exactly to the south of Gaza, on the right bank of the Nahr
Ghazzeh, which exactly fulfils the required conditions of distance and
geographical position. The only thing is that the name of the town
and the river, which were identical, have disappeared and have been
replaced by modern and purely Arab appellations. This however is
no uncommon occurrence in Palestine. As for the convent and the
tomb of St. Hilarion, twenty stadia from Thabatha and situated on
the sea coast, these would suggest the sanctuary now called Sheikh
Shtlbdny. Accordingly, if excavations were carried out at this spot
there would be a good chance of finding the remains of the ancient
monastery, which took the place of the hut of the hermit of
Thabatha, and was the progenitor of the early monastic
establishments in Palestine. In the Syriac version of the Life of Peter
the Iberian, Monophysite bishop of Maiumas,^' a narrative dating
back to the fifth century, mention is made of a village called Magdal
Tiltha (^
 From Jerusalem to Sebaste [^Samaria), and from Seba'^te
to Gaza. 437 Se'^artd and St. Zeno. — Similarly I propose to identify
the Kefar Seartd (t^n"ii'D "1D3) of the same document," situated
fifteen miles from Gaza, and forming the residence of St. Zeno, with
the ruin called Kh. Shdarta (Map, Sheet XX Fw). The name, the
bearings, and the distance are in perfect agreement. Hamdnieh and
ITeXeta. — Last of all, I will take advantage of the opportunity that
presents itself to elucidate another passage in the same Syriac work,
which is of interest for the geography of the Ascalon region. On p.
75 {cf. p. 'J']) it is stated that Peter the Iberian took up his abode in
a village situated ten stadia from Ascalon, and called ^^i^7i^D or
i^i^72. The editor transcribes the name, Palcea. and is inclined,
though hesitatingly, to take it for a transliteration of the Greek
TraXata, " ancient," though he cannot even then identify the spot. I
have no doubt that we ought to regard it merely as a transliteration
of TreXeta, "dove," and that the Greek word is a close translation of
Hamdmeh, "dove," the name of the above mentioned village quite
near Ascalon. This indication is the more interesting as, for reasons
which I shall elsewhere set forth, it would tend to the identification
of El Mejdel as the site of the real Ascalon, 'Askalan being in that
case merely the harbour, the Maiiimas, of Ascalon. + From Gaza to
Jerusalem. We left Gaza on Saturday, September 26, intending to
reach Jerusalem by way of Beit Jibrin. Neby Haniiii. — At Beit Haniin,
where we halted for lunch, there is a N'eby Hamm, who gives his
name to the village. Simsim. —At Simsim is a Neby Daiiidn, bearing
the same name as the one in the neighbourhood of Lydda that I
have already spoken of I have had occasion to explain that this
name Daiiidn, or Danian, is not, as was hitherto believed, that of the
prophet Daniel, but of the patriarch Dan. The same may be the case
here too, and it may be supposed that the name of Dan * R. Raabe,
I'elncs der Iberer, p, 51 and 50. The editor renders it by, "the village
of barley," and declares that he cannot identify it. t For further
particulars relating to Thabatha, Seartd, and specially that, very
important, of liaiiidmeh, see ni)' Etudes d Anheotogie Orientate, Vol.
II, i-i. i, and sq.
 43^ Arckceological Researches in Palestine. was localized at
Sii)isiui because that name, rightly or wrongly, had been made akin,
by popular tradition, to that of Samson, the Danite hero. B'reir and
B'rur. — At B'reir the local saint is Neby B' rur. Evidently here again is
an eponymous neby, despite the difference in vocalization between
B'retr and B'rfir. In fact this divergence itself is an interesting fact. It
is probable that as usual the neby has preserved the most archaic
form of the name. The existence of this form is one more argument
in favour of the identification proposed by Robinson, of B'reir with
the Beror, for Beror Hail (-11-1:2 ==_,j,^j), of the Talmud, which
seemingly cannot have been very far away from Jabneh. M'ldgis. —
At M'lagis we found a camp of Bedouin, who made us welcome. I
carefully verified the form of the name of this place, and found it to
be really ^>
 From Jerusaleni to Sebaste {Samaria), and from Sebastc to
Gaza. 439 more serious claims,* from the toponymic standpoint, to
represent the Eglon of the Bible. In the time of Mujir ed Din''' it was
still an inhabited village, on the road from Gaza to Beit Jibrin.
Sukriyeh. — Sukriyeh, which we next encountered on our route, is a
place of some importance in relation to Arab authorities. Mujir ed
Din| connects it with one of the landmarks of the boundary of the
district of Hebron on the side of Gaza. I quote the text, because it
has been badly rendered, and no one has thought of utilizing it for
the geography of this region : . JjI^I JUj:1 ^j,« ^_. jkjki ^\i SLj
L'jLJ\ LyL! i->^). II Mujir ed Din states in the precisest manner the
boundaries of the district of Hebron, and it is for more than one
reason interesting to know them. I have just shown what this
boundary was on the west, on the Gaza side. On the Ramleh side (to
put it differently, on the north-west) its landmark \vas the village
(Jiarich) of Zakariya, a dependency of Hebron, and assigned as a
wakfto the pious foundations of the town. This is evidently the
village of the same name (XVII, lu on the Map). The northern
boundary passed by the village of Se'tr, between Jerusalem and
Hebron (Map, XXI, Lv : Sia'ir). The eastern limit was the village of
'Ain Jady (which shows that the place was still inhabited at that
period) and the Sea of Lot ; so that that side presents no
 440 ArchcBological Researches in Palestine. I recognize the
same place Sukriyeh at a much earlier period in one repeatedly
mentioned by the Arab geographer El Mukaddessy as being a town
situated one stage from Ramleh and two stages from Tuleil (towards
Ghamr = Gomorrha, to the south of the Dead Sea). Here again we
must substitute Sukriyeh for the faulty readings of editors and
translators : Sakariyeh, Sukkariyeh. Beit Jibrin and Neighbourhood.
At Beit Jibrin we pitched our tent quite close to the sanctuary of the
eponymous Neby Jibri7t, and there we slept two nights. A fierce
epidemic was just then raging in those parts. The population was
being decimated, and in a state of frantic terror. They were greatly
struck by the appearance of a new spring, and thought to find in it a
sign of the times. As many as twenty peasants were carried off
every day. Animals were no more exempt than men, and the
epidemic was attended by a murrain which came nothing short of it
in deadliness. We had met on our way a whole colony of Moghrebin,
previously settled at Tell es Safy, who were emigrating en masse to
the south, and i^eeing before the same scourge, from which they
also had suffered cruelly. In the brushwood there lay a dying man
left behind by the band. We found him supported in the arms of his
wife, who with touching fidelity had refused to forsake him. At Beit
Jibrin the local dervishes were howling forth prayers and exorcisms
in abundance, to the accompaniment of timbrels, to drive away the
pestilence. I served out our whole stock of sulphate of quinine, and
promised to get the Government to send some from Jerusalem. We
had the same difficulty in getting provisions as when I made my first
journey in 1871. The bread was uneatable. It was stuck all over with
stones, and we even found a mosaic cube in it, which came from
some ancient pavement on which an Arab oven had been set up.
difficulty. On the south the boundary passed by the station
{tiienzekh) of El Melh, on the road to Hejaz, and by the Domes of
Shatoeriyeh, h ,iUl11 < .-Uj. (This is the reading of a MS. belonging
to M. Sauvaire, and is evidently preferable to that in the Cairo
edition.) These are without doubt the Klmrbet el Milh and Gabab esh
Shaweri, marked a little to the south in Palmer and Drake's map
{Quarterly Stateinettf, 1871 ; cf. -p. 42). Thanks to the explanation
given by Mujir ed Din, we now know the origin of this latter name :
it comes from that of the Beni Shdwer, emirs of the Jorm Arabs.
Henceforth nothing is more easy than to draw up from these fixed
data a map of the district of Hebron as it was at the end of the 15th
century.
 From Icnisalcm to Sehastc {Saiiiaj-ia), and from Sebas/c to
Gaza. 441 Imperial Statue. — I devoted myself to finding the torso
of a statue that I had discovered in 1871 near the Roman road to
Dhikrin, in a north-north-east direction, somewhere about E'rak
Hala." After some trouble I succeeded. M. Lecomte made two good
drawings of it, one from front, the other from behind. It was, as the
reader sees, a statue in full relief, life-size, and not, as I had been
formerly led to suppose by a hasty and superficial inspection, a
statue d'apptique. The material is a hard limestone. I should say it
must have been a statue of an emperor in military dress. It is very
likely a statue of the emperor Septimus Severus (193-21 1 a.d.),
who seems to have played a very important part in the history of
Beit Jibrin. There has come down to us a Roman coinage struck for
Eleutheropolis, beginning under Septimus Severus and continued
under Caracalla and Elagabalus, These coins, which are until now of
extreme rarity, are dated by a special era, that of Eleutheropolis,
with the years III, VI, VII, VIII, IX, and XIX. It appears upon
calculation that the starting point of this era must lie between the
years 202 and 208, that is to say it falls well within the reign of
Septimus Severus. Furthermore, on these coins the town invariably
bears the significant name Lttcia Septima Severiana Eletitheropolis.
The institution of this era, and the adoption of this name, imply the
existence of great autonomic and other privileges granted to
Eleutheropolis by Septimus Severus, for reasons to us imknown.
Perhaps they were a reward for the attitude of the town during the
struggle in Syria between Septimus Severus and Pescennius Niger, or
during the subsequent troubles * See infra : Appendix. 3 L
 442 Archceological Researches in Palestine. that broke out
in Juctea. It is probable, moreover, that Septimus Severus had the
opportunity to pass through EleutheropoHs and grant it these
privileges when he crossed Southern Palestine in 200 or 202 on his
way to Egypt. In any case it is easy to explain that the grateful
Eleutheropolites should have erected a statue to their imperial
benefactor, the very one, perhaps, that I discovered at E'rak Hala
near Beit Jibrin. The various details of the uniform have been well
preserved. The position of the shoulders seems to show that the left
arm was raised and held a lance or a standard. Jewish Capita/. — In
an old beiyara in the village I noticed a fine marble capital, placed
upside down. It had formerly been used as a pivot for the tree of a
sakia (water-wheel). It is o"'55 high, o'"'43 wide, and is ornamented
with finely carved acanthus leaves. In the upper part a
representation of the seven-branched candlestick stands out in relief
This peculiarly Jewish symbol would seem to indicate that the capital
came from an ancient synagogue, existing probably at Beit Jibrin in
the early centuries of our era.* - '■'P'^^^^Sift*?^-.' Milestones. —
A few minutes further on, I noticed in the middle and to the right of
the Roman way a group of eleven milestones lying on the ground,
consisting of cylindrical shafts standing on quadrangular bases.
Unfortunately I could not possibly find any fellahin strong enough to
extricate and turn over * This seems to me to follow from various
passages in the Talmud where mention is made of several Jewish
doctors coming from this town (cf. Reland, Pahzstina, s.v.
Betligiihrin).
 Frojii Jcriisa/ciu to Scbastc [Samaria), and from Scbastc to
Gaza. 443 these columns, some of which perhaps had interesting
inscriptions on them. The men with us, exhausted by fever, had not
the strength to handle pick and crowbar, and after one or two
fruitless endeavours, I had to give up the attempt, greatly to my
regret. This group of milestones, thus gathered together at one
point, reminds one of the group at Tayibeh" that I have already
described. I found another example of this in the neighbourhood of
Beit Jibrin, but in quite another direction, on the ancient Roman way
to Dawaimeh in the south. Here the group is composed of twelve or
fifteen milestones, seven or eight of which are still standing. The
ancient Eleutheropolis formed a central point in the network of the
Roman roads that traversed Palestine, whence several routes
radiated in various directions. These are frequently used by the
compilers of the Ononiasticon as guiding marks in their geographical
indications. I earnestly beg future explorers to make a careful study
of this question of the Roman ways and the milestones of Beit Jibrin,
which hitherto has been merely touched upon. There are certainly
epigraphical discoveries to be made in this quarter. Krdk el Khcil. —
We explored some of the vast caves, the work of human hands,
which are found in the neighbourhood of Beit Jibrin, and go by the
generic name of E'rdk (j'^-, pronounced with a prosthetic c). E'rak el
Kheil may have served at one time for a stable, as is indicated by its
name [Kheil, " horses "). Above the entrance door of one of the long
galleries, with their roofs vaulted in a semi-circle and carefully hewn,
we noticed traces of ornamentation cut in the rock. Along either side
of the vastest of these galleries, which measures more than 16 feet
in height, there run two friezes, finely TRANSVERSE SECTIO.N OF
THE GALLERY. Scale ^i^. * See supra, p. 296. The same is the case
at Kh. Fukeikis. Roman military milestones, arranged like those in
more or less numerous groups at the same spot, also occur in the
neighbourhood of Karak and Shaubak (see Due de Luynes, Voyage
d'exploration a la Mer Morte, II, pp. 157, 159), also in the districts
beyond Jordan {Memoirs, Eastern Palestine, I, pp. 212, 213, at
Serabit el Mehattah and el Mushukkar, in groups of 12 and 24), and
pretty nearly everywhere in Palestine. It is probable that they
correspond to successive reigns of different emperors. I doubt very
much whether they ever had the more or less sacred character that
some have been inclined to attribute to them. ^ I. 2
 444 Ar(h(eolos:ical Researches in Palestine. carved in low
relief. They form two bands, one of which goes on for a leno-th of
about 20 yards, while the other is shorter. The patterns of the two
friezes are different. The following show those of the left wall (at a)
and the right wall (at k). W'^^^^^^mw^'^ im:: 'i^^^^M.'^^^^^
Scale TtVIn addition to this, the intrados of the arch is ornamented
with a simpler kind of decoration, a network of octagons, thus : On
one of the walls I noticed what looked like openings of " ovens " that
had been stopped up. At the back of a small chamber, in the right
corner, there is a kind of rectangular trouofh made in the rock, with
one of its shorter sides joining the wall by an inclined plane
decorated with a moulded baguette. Alleged Inscription. — I made a
vain search at E'rak el Fenlsh tor the ancient inscription which I had
been told was there. I found but a few Cufic characters, similar to
those that have been noticed in several of these caverns. E'rak Abitl-
Amed. — At E'rak Abu'l-'Amed, about three-quarters of an hour
south-east of Sandahanna, there are some. gTaffiti Sind curious
symbols on one of the inner walls, which would be worth copying.
We had no time to do this. This cavern is extremely large, and
shows in several places small triangular niches like those in the
caverns of Deir Dhubban, reminding one of the columbaria. It was
full of wild pigeons who had taken up their abode there and made
the place a columbarium in all senses of the word. All these F^rdk in
the country round Beit jibrin are extremely curious, and their origin
is veiled in obscurity. They ought to be subjected to a minute
 From Jcntsalciu to Sehaste {Samaria), and from Sebaste to
Gaza. 445 and methodical exploration. Here are two pieces of
information concerning them which I picked up at Jerusalem in 1S69
and 1870.* • — "'Isa Kubursy, of Nazareth, told me at Jerusalem
that he had seen in a cavern at Beit Jibrin a human figure carved in
the rock on one of the inner walls, and on the opposite wall an
inscription of two lines." — "Ya'kub Banayot, of Jerusalem, told me
he had seen in a cavern situated half an hour or so from Beit Jibrin,
called ]\Iegharet esh S /levts {' t\\c cavern of the sun '}, a bas-relief
cut in the rock, very higli up. It represents a woman standing, her
bosom bared, and her arms hanging by her side ; close to her, a
child lying down in a bed or a cradle ; further on, another child,
erect. It is accompanied by an inscription in discoiniected characters,
which Ya'kub says are gurdji (Georgian). (By this he means
characters that are neither Greek nor Latin.)" Remarkable Tomb. —
To the left of the road from Beit Jibrin to Sandahanna, in the Wad
Abu Leben, we found a magnificent rock-hewn tomb, of a quite
peculiar type. The entrance is of a simple kind, and almost entirely
stopped up, so that the outside view gives no idea of the importance
of the interior arrangement. This perhaps is why it has escaped the
notice of explorers. Crawling in through the narrow opening, one
finds oneself in a small ante-chamber with two loculi or kokim
opening into the right and left walls respectively. From here one
proceeds to a large chamber 23 feet long by iii feet wide, having a
ceiling very slightly vaulted, and all round it a projecting bench made
by cutting away the rock. Transverse Half-seciion on c-D. Scale T^.
1869, Cariiet III, p. 13; and 1870, Cornet, IV, p. 3.
 446 Archceological Researches, in Palestine. L, Longitudinal
Section on A-B. Scale yj^. Above the bench, in each of the longer
walls on the right and left, are seven loculi, and in the back wall
three, making in all nineteen. The remarkable thing is that the tops
of all these loculi are triangular in section, instead of being flat or
rounded, as is usual. This is the first time that I have noticed this
curious variety of loculi in Palestine. On examining the walls, I
discovered above the first loculus on the right as you go into the
large chamber, a short Greek inscription lightly but clearly scratched
in. ^^-s^QA^X ^ Xyddap^o
 From Jcrusalcjji fo Scbast-; {San/ana), and from Sr/>as/c
to Gaza. 447 AnotJier similar Tomb. — A little farther on we
discovered a second tomb of the same description, but of still more
imposing appearance, and comprising several chambers. I regret
that lack of time prevented us from making a survey of this one also,
and I leave it to explorers who may pass that way to supply the
want. Church of Saudahaiina. — We made a thorough study of the
ruins of this church, which assuredly is one of the most remarkable
in Palestine. The appearance they present is here depicted. The
primitive building was a Byzantine basilica, resembling the most
strikingspecimens of the kind that still exist in central Syria, and are
reproduced in the fine work of M. de Vosfiie.* The basilica has been
in part re-arranged by the Crusaders, who have utilized the nave to
build there a church of more modest dimensions, which was entirely
comprised within the breadth of this part, and did not occupy
anything near the whole length of it. In the accompanying plan the
parts coloured black and the shaded parts belong to the Byzantine
basilica : the former represent the structures that rise above the
ground as it now is, the latter those that are on a level with the
ground, or below it. The dotted parts indicate the work of the
Cru.saders, which is recognizable from the toolmarks on certain
stones and the characteristic shapes of the architectural details. *
Syne centrale. Architecture civile et religieuse du I" an VII' siecle.
 448 Archceological Researches in Palestine. The greater
portion of the ground occupied by the basilica is covered with made
earth, and with stones and miscellaneous rubbish. I wish to draw
especial attention to the fact that near the left (north-west) corner,
outside the basilica, there is a huge semi-circle with its last course
cut in the rock, joined on to the wall of the basilica. It marks the
position of the foundations of another important edifice with an
apse, having its axis at right angles to that of the Byzantine basilica.
The courses of squared stones have completely disappeared ; all
that is now left is traces of foundations cut in the rock. Are we to
regard this edifice, which has been completely levelled ' ---^\.'^. '
"■'■~- ^ CHURCH OF SANDAHANNA, BEIT JIBRIN. Scale -^\-;. with
the ground, as an annexe forming an integral part of the ancient
basilica ? Or was it on the contrary an earlier building, the materials
of which were utilized anew by the Byzantine architects? In the latter
case, this earlier building cannot have been of Christian origin, in
view of its orientation being
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