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Gluten-Free Flour Power Aki Kamozawa H Alexander Talbot

This document is an introduction to a gluten-free cookbook dedicated to the authors' daughter, Amaya, emphasizing the importance of flavor and creativity in gluten-free cooking. It outlines various chapters covering gluten-free pantry essentials, recipes for breakfast, breads, pastries, and desserts, while also discussing the science behind gluten and its alternatives. The authors aim to provide delicious gluten-free recipes that can be enjoyed by everyone, regardless of dietary restrictions.

Uploaded by

Serge Córdova
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© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
0% found this document useful (0 votes)
27 views508 pages

Gluten-Free Flour Power Aki Kamozawa H Alexander Talbot

This document is an introduction to a gluten-free cookbook dedicated to the authors' daughter, Amaya, emphasizing the importance of flavor and creativity in gluten-free cooking. It outlines various chapters covering gluten-free pantry essentials, recipes for breakfast, breads, pastries, and desserts, while also discussing the science behind gluten and its alternatives. The authors aim to provide delicious gluten-free recipes that can be enjoyed by everyone, regardless of dietary restrictions.

Uploaded by

Serge Córdova
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
You are on page 1/ 508

Juanvi

Juanvi
Juanvi

This book is for our daughter, Amaya,


who taught us that asking questions allows us to make new discoveries.
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Please bookmark your page before linking.

introduction

CHAPTER 1

our gluten-free
pantry
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CHAPTER 2

breakfast

CHAPTER 3

quick breads
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CHAPTER 4

yeasted and
sourdough breads

CHAPTER 5

flatbreads and
crackers
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CHAPTER 6

pasta and
dumplings

CHAPTER 7

pastries
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CHAPTER 8

single-layer cakes
and bundt cakes

CHAPTER 9

small cakes and


bars
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CHAPTER 10

layer cakes

CHAPTER 11

pies
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CHAPTER 12

cookies

acknowledgments
sources
index
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introduction

gluten-free food is not a fad. It’s here to stay. For us


that is exciting, because we love a challenge. When
chefs started calling us to teach gluten-free
workshops, we knew we had to step up our game. It’s
not enough to create recipes that are “great—for
gluten-free”; we wanted to create great recipes that
just happened to be gluten-free. Leaving out the
gluten was a crucial parameter in developing these
recipes, but the defining factors were taste and flavor.
The definition of the word diet is the kind of food
that a person, animal, or community habitually eats.
For a variety of reasons, mostly health related, a good
percentage of the population now chooses not to eat
gluten. You don’t have to have made that choice
yourself to need a few great gluten-free recipes in
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your back pocket, you simply have to want to cook


for someone who has.
Let’s start with the basics. Wheat flour is a
hydrocolloid. That means it absorbs water and creates
a gel. Wheat flours, which consist mostly of starch,
are classified by their protein content. The amount of
protein in the flour is what dictates the elasticity of
your bread or pasta dough. Gluten is formed when
two proteins, glutenin and gliadin, absorb water or
another liquid. Gliadin is sticky and stretchy, giving
dough extensibility, and glutenin adds strength and
elasticity to a dough. Elasticity refers to the ability of
a dough to spring back after it has been stretched.
These two proteins work in concert to create gluten.
When gluten absorbs water (a process known as
hydration), it forms long, stretchy, elastic strands that
define the structure of a batter or dough. Then when
you cook it, the heat causes the starch granules to
swell up, thickening and forming irreversible bonds
with the water, the process called gelatinization. As
the water inside the protein network heats, it changes
into steam, which forces the network to expand; this
is steam leavening. The final step is coagulation.
Once the proteins reach a high enough temperature
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(165°F./74°C.), they begin to solidify, setting the


structure of the bread or cake.
If you don’t develop enough gluten in your bread
dough, it won’t be able to stretch and the resulting
bread will be heavy and dense. If you develop too
much gluten in your cake batter, on the other hand, it
will become too elastic and the cake will be tough
and chewy. Finding the perfect balance with gluten is
an art, and replacing gluten with something else
entirely can be challenging.
Without the protein in wheat flour, you need to
find a new way to build structure in your dough. We
do this in our flour blends by using a combination of
starches, gums, and proteins that mimics the effects
of gluten. We’ve come up with three different blends
to address a variety of dietary needs. Making these
blends may seem like an investment because of the
number of different flours involved, but you will find
that gram for gram, our homemade flour blends are
less expensive than the gluten-free flour blends sold
in retail outlets. It doesn’t take long to whisk them
together, and the results are well worth the minimal
effort. Our gluten-free blends contain everything you
need to re-create your favorite gluten recipes without
having to add any other ingredients. They are all-
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purpose blends made without gluten that can be


adapted to any traditional recipe.
We have seen that when people eliminate gluten
from their diets, they begin to pay more attention to
the effects that food has on their bodies. It’s not
unusual for people on gluten-free diets to become
aware of other food allergies or sensitivities. For that
reason, we created three different flour blends. They
have all been tested with every recipe in this book
and they all work in each one.
When we asked people to taste-test the recipes in
this book, we didn’t always tell them they were
gluten-free. We wanted an honest opinion of flavor
and texture without any preconceptions. Anything
that did not receive rave reviews was not included
here. These are wonderful sweet and savory recipes
that you can serve to anyone you love, regardless of
whether or not they are eating gluten-free.
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gluten-
free
flour
power
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CHAPTER 1

Flaxseed Egg Replacer


Smoked Masa Harina
Masa Harina Puree
Toasted Milk Powder
Japanese Fried Chicken
Gluten-Free Sourdough Starter
Sweet-and-Spicy Ginger Cream Ice Cream
What IiF Flour 3.0
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Batch-3 Flour
Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend
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Our gluten-free pantry.


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Working with gluten-free flours means putting aside


some preconceived notions about how batters and
doughs should behave. While some of the recipes in
this book will seem remarkably similar to versions
you’ve been making your entire life, others will seem
unfamiliar. Bakers are traditionally taught that too
much stirring can ruin a delicate cake batter by
overdeveloping the gluten, but there’s no gluten here.
Bread dough will be wet and rise almost completely
in the pans before baking instead of the oven. Pie
dough will be soft and malleable. It may tear easily
but it can simply be pressed back together with no ill
effect. Certain textures and techniques will be
different. What follows is a little background
information on the flours, starches, and proteins we
use in this book.
Don’t think of gluten-free cooking as restrictive—
think of it as changing your perspective. Creativity
loves working within new parameters, and this is an
opportunity to think outside the box when it comes to
recipes that you may have been using for years.
You’ll find yourself tweaking the tried-and-true
recipes that you’ve always relied on and possibly
making them even better than before. Change opens
up the imagination, and you may discover flavor
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combinations that bring new life to old favorites.


Exploring different techniques and unfamiliar
ingredients is one of the things that makes cooking
fun for us.
Gluten-free cooking is easier than you may think.
People get hung up on the idea of the vast array of
new flours and ingredients that they think they will
need, but once you start cooking with gluten-free
ingredients, you will likely pick a few that you
become very comfortable using. You don’t have to
use every kind of flour out there to be a good gluten-
free cook.
Today there are many companies producing great
gluten-free flours and grains, and many of these are
readily available in supermarkets. Arrowhead Mills
and Bob’s Red Mill are two of our favorite producers.
We buy these flours and starches in large bags or by
the case to save money.
Here’s a tip: Nut meals and flours are just finely
ground nuts, so most of the time you can make your
own. Chill the nuts and grind them in a food
processor or blender, pulsing so they don’t overheat
and turn to nut butter. If you’re going to be mixing
them with flour or sugar for a recipe, add some of
that to the food processor to help grind the nuts into a
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fine powder without turning them into a paste. It’s


easy to do and will probably be less expensive, and
fresher, than store-bought nut meals or flours. Store
any extra nut flour in the refrigerator. If you like, you
can substitute up to 50 percent nut flour for the flour
called for in most of your favorite recipes. The results
will be slightly different, both richer and more
delicate in texture, and the added flavor is a bonus. If
you love nuts, it’s worth experimenting a little bit.
You can also grind your own flour from gluten-
free grains. Again, freezing or chilling them first is a
good thing, because it helps keep the blender or food
processor from getting too warm. You can grind rice
into flour or process rolled oats to a fine powder in
the food processor. You can make your own flaxseed
meal in a spice grinder and turn dehydrated potato
flakes into potato flour. Homemade flours will almost
always be fresher, better, and less expensive than
what you can buy. If you really embrace the process,
there is a wide variety of grain mills that you can
purchase; there is even a grain-milling attachment
available for KitchenAid mixers. The only things you
really can’t make at home are the starches, such as
cornstarch, tapioca starch, or potato starch. Not even
we have the equipment for that.
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So, what is the difference between a flour and a


starch? Starches are present in all flours. Generally
speaking, flours are ground grains, seeds, or tubers,
cooked or raw, that are dehydrated and then ground
whole into flour. A starch, such as cornstarch or
potato starch, is isolated from that plant, dried and
ground to a powder. Generally flours and starches are
not interchangeable. The only exception to this rule is
tapioca; for unknown reasons, you may find it
labeled either tapioca starch or tapioca flour and both
are exactly the same thing.

Arrowroot
Arrowroot is a starch derived from the young
rhizomes of the Maranta arundinacea plant, which
grows in South America, the West Indies, India, Sri
Lanka, the Philippines, and Indonesia. Arrowroot
often appears in Caribbean and Latin American
recipes. It is used as thickener and results in a clear,
glossy, odorless gel. It thickens at temperatures
ranging from 140° to 187°F. (60° to 86°C.) and has
the ability to withstand long cooking times without
breaking down. Sauces and puddings thickened with
arrowroot can be frozen without negative effects.
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Arrowroot is best mixed with cold water to form a


slurry before blending it into a warm mixtures.
Unlike gelatin or cornstarch, it dissolves in cool
liquids, and it works well with acidic ingredients. We
use arrowroot in our gluten-free flour blends as a
thickener and to help retain moisture in the finished
breads and cakes.

Cocoa Powder
Chocolate comes from cacao beans. After cacao pods
are harvested, they are split open by hand and the
seeds are removed and fermented with the pulp that
clings to them. During this process, the pulp changes
into liquid and the chocolate flavor develops. Then
the seeds are dried and cracked, turning them into
what are called cocoa nibs. The nibs are roasted,
ground, and pressed to remove most of the cocoa
butter. The solids that are left after pressing are
ground into cocoa powder. It still contains a small
amount of cocoa butter, 10 to 12 percent, and it has a
very intense chocolate flavor. Dutch-processed cocoa
powder, sometimes labeled “alkalized,” has been
treated with an alkali to increase the pH. This process
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also blunts the chocolate flavor, so we prefer to use


natural cocoa powder in our recipes.

Corn Flour / Cornmeal


Corn flour and cornmeal are both ground from dried
corn. The difference between them is the texture.
Cornmeal comes in a range from coarse polenta to
fine cornmeal, and the texture tends to be sandy
rather than fine. Corn flour is the finest grind and is
almost powdery in texture. (A note for bakers in
England: There the term corn flour often refers to
cornstarch.) If you need corn flour for a recipe or
prefer a finer texture, you can grind cornmeal into
flour in the food processor. Pulse it so that it doesn’t
overheat, and process to a fine, light powder. Don’t
confuse corn flour with masa harina (see here),
another dried corn product. Masa harina has a
stronger flavor and requires more liquid to hydrate.

Cornstarch
Cornstarch is a powder ground from the endosperm
of corn kernels. Cornstarch has something of a bad
reputation these days because of the controversy over
the safety of genetically modified plants; the corn
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used for cornstarch is often GMO. There are many


who believe that the recent increase in food allergies
and sensitivities can be traced back to the widening
distribution of genetically modified food supplies. All
we can say is choose your cornstarch carefully. As of
this writing, anything labeled “organic” in the United
States cannot contain genetically modified
ingredients.
Cornstarch is used as a thickener, and it is
activated at temperatures ranging from 144° to 180°F.
(62° to 80°C.). Like arrowroot and tapioca, it
dissolves in cold liquids, so it’s best to mix it with
some cold water to form a slurry before adding it to a
warm liquid. It needs to be cooked for 2 to 3 minutes
to eliminate its starchy flavor. It forms a firmer gel
than tapioca and we usually use it in combination
with tapioca in cooked puddings or pie fillings so that
they are soft and silky, rather than heavy and gummy.
Cornstarch can also be used instead of flour to coat
foods to be fried; it forms a light, crisp crust.

Flaxseeds
Flaxseeds are popular as a nutritional supplement.
They are a good source of omega-3 fatty acids,
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lignans (a type of phytoestrogen with antioxidant


properties), and fiber. Flaxseeds have a sweet, nutty
flavor similar to that of sesame seeds and if you have
them, they can be used instead of sesame seeds in
recipes. Flaxseeds create a starch-based gel that
thickens and emulsifies—that means it can help
encourage foaming, thicken liquids, and create
structure within batters and doughs. Because of this,
flaxseed meal is often used as an egg replacer in
vegan recipes. You can grind flaxseeds into a fine
meal in a clean coffee or spice grinder, or you can
buy them ground. Flaxseed meal is highly perishable
and should be stored in the refrigerator or freezer.
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flaxseed egg replacer


replaces 1 egg

Used in baking recipes.


3 tablespoons / 42 grams water
1 tablespoon / 7 grams flaxseed meal

Whisk together the water and flaxseed meal in a small bowl and let sit at
room temperature for about 10 minutes. It will thicken as it sits.
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Guar Gum
Guar gum is derived from the seeds of the cluster
bean, an edible plant with pods resembling green
beans. It is the ground endosperm of the beans. Guar
gum is used primarily as a thickener and has eight
times the thickening power of cornstarch. It also
increases viscosity as it thickens. Guar gum is soluble
in hot or cold liquids, though cold temperatures slow
down hydration, lengthening the time it takes to form
a gel. Guar gum is notable because it adds a chewy
texture as it thickens, in turn, lending a pleasing
texture to many baked goods. It is very stable at cold
temperatures and discourages the formation of ice
crystals in frozen emulsions, making it a favored
additive in ice creams and sorbets.

Masa Harina
Masa harina is a type of corn flour, used in Latin
American cooking to make tortillas. It is made from
dried field corn that is heated in a solution spiked
with slaked lime, then rinsed, rubbed to remove the
hulls, and dried. Corn that has been treated this way
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is called nixtamal. The whole kernels are sold as


hominy and the ground nixtamal is masa harina.
Masa has a fine texture and tends to absorb more
liquid than cornmeal or corn flour; it has a deep corn
flavor and slightly nutty taste. We often cook masa
harina and puree it to help add structure to gluten-
free bread doughs.
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smoked masa harina


makes 2 cups

Cold-smoking grains is a great way to increase


flavor. While this recipe is for smoking masa, you can
substitute the flour of your choice. Sometimes a touch
of smoky flavor is all you need to change up a dish
and give it new life. In fact, we discovered that
smoked foods actually trigger umami receptors on
the palate, making food more savory. We puree
smoked masa harina and use it to strengthen the
structure of gluten-free baked goods, but you could
use it in your favorite tortilla recipe and see what a
difference the smoke makes.
2 cups masa harina

Put the masa harina in a shallow container set over a pan of ice. Put it in
your smoker and cold-smoke for 1 hour, stirring occasionally. Replace the
ice as needed to keep the masa cool. Store in an airtight container.
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masa harina puree


makes about 2 cups

This is the basic masa puree that we call for in a few


recipes. It’s a great thing to have on hand if you are
experimenting with creating your own gluten-free
bread and pasta doughs. It imports a light, nutty
flavor from the corn and helps add viscosity and
elasticity to the dough. This puree also makes an
appearance in the filling of the Masa Harina Pie
(here), in our riff on Indian pudding, with a smoother,
silkier texture.
2¼ cups / 500 grams water
⅔ cup / 100 grams masa harina or Smoked Masa Harina (here)
½ teaspoon / 3 grams fine sea salt

To use a pressure cooker, put the water, masa harina, and salt in a bowl that
fits inside your pressure cooker and whisk to blend. Set the bowl on a rack
in your pressure cooker, with 2 inches of water in the pot. Cook at high
pressure for 20 minutes. Allow the pressure to release naturally.

Remove the bowl from the pressure cooker and stir the masa well; it will
look slightly curdled and separated at first and then come together as you
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mix it. Transfer the bowl to the refrigerator to cool completely.

Alternatively, bring the water to a boil in a medium saucepan and whisk in


the masa harina. Bring to a simmer and cook over low heat, stirring often to
prevent scorching and sticking, for 40 minutes, or until the masa thickens
and is completely cooked through. Pour into a bowl and cool completely in
the refrigerator.

Put the cold masa harina in a blender or food processor and puree until
smooth; it will be thick and sticky. Masa harina puree will keep in a covered
container in the refrigerator for up to a week and can be frozen in an airtight
container for up to 3 months. If it separates when you defrost it, simply
puree it again before using
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Rice Flour
Rice flour is finely milled rice. It can be made from
any kind of rice. Brown rice flour is the whole-grain
version, containing both the bran and the germ. You
can easily make your own rice flour at home. Take
some of your favorite white or brown rice, short-,
medium-, or long-grain, and grind it into a fine, light
powder using a clean coffee or spice grinder, food
processor, or high-speed blender.
Rice flour is a staple in Asian cuisines, used to
make noodles and sweets. It is also often used in
classic shortbread recipes because it adds a
pleasingly sandy texture. In gluten-free baking, it add
structure to baked goods.
Glutinous rice flour, sometimes labeled sweet rice
flour, is milled from glutinous rice; also called sticky
rice. It is probably best known for its use in Japanese
mochi, glutinous rice cakes. It is very sticky and
dense when hydrated and should be added carefully
in baking recipes. It contributes moisture and a
chewy texture, but in large amounts, it can make
cakes and breads dense and compacted.
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Nonfat Milk Powder


In its purest form, this is simply powdered
dehydrated skim milk. We use it to add protein to our
gluten-free flour blends. Sometimes it can be a little
clumpy, but if you put it in a blender or food
processor, you can fix that in a few seconds flat. We
also like to toast it and use the powder in baked
goods. Way back in the day, we discovered that if we
added nonfat milk powder to brown butter, it would
amplify the nutty caramel flavor of the cooked milk
solids. Then we figured out that we didn’t actually
need the butter to get the flavor. Now toasted milk
powder is a pantry staple and we use it to add that
flavor to many of our favorite things.
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toasted milk powder


makes 1½ cups / 100 grams milk powder

We use this powder to add rich caramelized notes to


breads, cookies, and puddings or to bump up the
flavor of brown butter. It has a slightly sweet flavor,
with a hint of nuts and caramel, without any actual
sugar or fat. We like the way it gives a bit of depth
and complexity to shortbreads and biscuits, pasta
dough, and cake batters. The toasted milk solids don’t
drown out the other ingredients, they just make things
taste better. Add a couple of tablespoons to your
favorite recipes and see what happens.
1½ cups / 100 grams nonfat milk powder

Put the milk solids in a microwave-safe bowl and cook them for 30 seconds,
then remove the bowl and stir. Repeat this procedure for a total of 10
minutes, or until the milk solids are a deep toasted brown. Let cool to room
temperature.

Toasted milk powder can be stored in an airtight container at room


temperature for up to 6 months.
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NOTE: Alternatively, put the milk solids in a Mason jar. Screw on the lid
tightly—you don’t want moisture entering the jar. Set the jar on a rack in a
pressure cooker filled with 2 inches of water. Cook for 1½ hours at high
pressure. Let the pressure release naturally before removing the lid and let
the jar cool completely before opening it.

Microwaved milk powder—brown butter solids that help amplify nutty


caramel flavors.
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Oat Flour
Oat flour is a wonderful ingredient. In many ways, it
acts like standard wheat flour, adding starch,
structure, and moisture to baked goods. It’s ground
from whole oats, and you can make it yourself by
grinding rolled oats in a food processor or blender.
Just weigh the oats before you grind so you have
exactly the right amount. One caveat: Oats and oat
flour are not always guaranteed gluten-free; it’s
important to read the label.
Oat flour has a fine, light texture and many people
simply substitute oat flour for wheat flour with good
results. We prefer to blend it with other flours,
because it can give baked goods a dense, sticky
texture. We use that characteristic to our advantage in
some cookies and brownies, like the Peanut Butter
Blondies (here), but it would be less pleasing in
something like a sponge cake.

Potato Flour
Potato flour, ground from dried potatoes, contains
everything that the potato has to offer. It is wonderful
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in baked goods because it holds on to moisture and


gives the dough a slightly sticky texture. We use it in
all of our gluten-free flour blends. Adding a small
amount of potato flour helps keep dough, especially
cookie dough, from spreading too much in the oven.
One caveat is that it does taste like potatoes, and for
that reason, it should be used sparingly unless you
want to add that flavor to your cookies and cakes.
Potato flour, oat flour, and sweet sorghum flour
behave in a similar manner and can be substituted for
one another in most recipes.

Potato Starch
Potato starch is the isolated starch extracted from
potatoes. Many recipes for latkes call for grating the
potatoes and then soaking them in cold water. When
you remove them from the liquid, there is usually a
small pile of starch in the bottom of the bowl. That is
pure potato starch. It is usually used as a thickener,
often for sauces and soups, activating at between
136° and 150°F. (58° and 65°C.). It is best added
toward the end of the cooking time, because it gels
quickly. Potato starch should be dissolved in cold
water before it is added to hot liquids.
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Potato starch adds structure and moisture to


gluten-free baked goods. It is a binder that helps hold
everything together. In addition to latkes it can be
used for vegetable pancakes and fritters. Potato starch
has a fine, soft texture, and it is often used in Asian
cooking to dredge ingredients before frying them. It
helps batters stick to proteins and vegetables. It can
also be used by itself to coat meats, fish, or
vegetables for frying. It forms a light, crispy crust
that is completely addictive.
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japanese fried chicken


makes 6 chicken thighs

One of our favorite uses for potato starch is to coat


fried foods. If you’ve never cooked with potato
starch, this recipe will convince you that you must
keep it in your pantry at all times. This fried chicken
is light, crispy, and full of flavor. Because we couldn’t
help ourselves, we butterfly the chicken thighs before
marinating them. That lets the marinade penetrate
more quickly and also promotes even cooking. And it
increases the surface area, so you have even more
crispy fried goodness to enjoy. The marinade is a
blend of Japanese flavors with a bit of American
buttermilk to make sure the finished chicken is juicy,
tender, and delicious. Once you’ve tried this, you will
never make fried chicken any other way.
marinade
½ cup / 120 grams buttermilk
A 2-inch piece of fresh ginger, peeled and thinly sliced
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2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced


3 scallions, white and green parts, thinly sliced
2 tablespoons / 33 grams soy sauce
1 tablespoon / 14 grams Asian sesame oil
1 tablespoon / 13 grams light brown sugar
¼ teaspoon / 1.5 grams fine sea salt

6 medium chicken thighs (about 2¼ pounds / 1 kilo)


3 cups / 552 grams potato starch
Rice bran oil or peanut oil for deep-frying

To make the marinade, put the buttermilk, ginger, garlic, scallions, soy
sauce, sesame oil, brown sugar, and salt in a medium bowl and whisk until
smooth.

Lay one chicken thigh skin side down on a cutting board, with the bone
running vertically, and use a sharp paring knife to cut down the center to the
bone, from top to bottom. Gently slide the knife horizontally to the left to
butterfly the meat, being careful not to cut all the way through it. Carefully
open the flap and lightly score the meat in a crosshatch pattern, being
careful not to cut all the way through the meat. Repeat on the right side of
the thigh. Add the thigh to the bowl with the marinade, and repeat with the
remaining 5 thighs.

Mix the thighs and marinade together, coating each piece thoroughly.
Transfer the meat and marinade to a large zip-top bag, press out as much air
as possible, and seal the bag. Put the bag in a shallow bowl in the
refrigerator and marinate for 12 to 24 hours, turning the bag occasionally to
distribute the marinade evenly.

Preheat the oven to 200°F. (95°C.).

Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Set a wire rack on another
baking sheet. Put the potato starch in a large bowl.
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Remove one chicken thigh from the marinade, brushing off any pieces of
garlic, ginger, or scallion, and add to the potato starch. The marinade
clinging to the chicken will help the flour adhere to the meat. Roll the thigh
in the potato starch, coating it thoroughly, then put it on the parchment-lined
baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining thighs. Then, beginning with the
first thigh, dredge each one a second time in the potato starch and return to
the parchment-lined pan.

Set a large cast-iron skillet on the stovetop and add 1½ inches of oil. Heat
over medium-high heat until the oil reaches 375°F. (190°C.). Once the oil
has come to temperature, add 2 or 3 chicken thighs to the skillet, depending
on its size (be careful not to crowd the pan), and fry for about 8 minutes,
until the bottom side is golden brown. Flip the thighs and cook for another 8
minutes, or until they are a deep golden brown on the other side. Transfer to
the rack set over the baking sheet and slide into the oven to keep warm. Fry
the remaining chicken thighs, transferring them to the oven as they are
done. If not serving immediately, turn off the oven and prop the oven door
open a crack so that the thighs remain warm and crisp.

Put the fried chicken on a platter and serve family style, with your favorite
accompaniments.

NOTE: Rice bran oil is one of our favorite oils for frying. Produced from
the bran of the rice kernel, it is 20 percent saturated fat and 80 percent
unsaturated fat. It has a light nutty flavor and is unlikely to cause allergic
reactions. It has long been used in Asia both as cooking oil and for cosmetic
purposes. Studies in Japan and the United States have shown that
consuming rice bran oil can lower the risk of heart disease. The oil has a
high level of nutrients and antioxidants, which gives it a unique stability
and long shelf life. And its smoke point of 490°F. (255°C.) makes it well
suited to frying. Foods fried in rice bran oil tend to absorb up to 20 percent
less fat than food cooked in other vegetable oils.
If you can’t find rice bran oil, peanut oil is our second choice. It also has
a light nutty flavor and doesn’t absorb odors from the foods that are fried in
it. It also has a relatively high smoke point (450°F./232°C). Lacking either
of these, we use blended olive oil. Canola oil is a last resort for frying,
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because it takes on an unpleasant fishy smell at high temperatures that


clings to the fried food.

Butterfly the chicken thighs and


Marinated chicken thighs in
score the meat to absorb the
their first coating of potato
marinade and ensure even
starch.
frying.

Chicken thighs in a second Super-crispy Japanese Fried


coating of potato starch, ready Chicken thighs cooling on a wire
for the fryer. rack.
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Sweet Sorghum Flour


Sorghum is a cereal grain that originated in Africa. It
is cultivated to produce sorghum syrup, a sweetener,
and can also be used to brew beer and other alcohol.
Sweet sorghum flour has experienced a rise in
popularity as more people have adopted gluten-free
diets. It is slightly sweet, with a relatively neutral
flavor, and is a good source of protein, iron, and
fiber. It is used in bread recipes and for heartier
baked goods like pastries and pies.
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gluten-free sourdough starter


53 ounces / 1500 grams sourdough starter

We first made a gluten-free sourdough starter with


just sorghum flour and water. We combined equal
parts (by weight) of the flour and water in a bowl,
stirred them, and covered the mix. The following day,
we saw bubbles appearing. We discarded half of the
starter and added fresh sorghum and water to the
mix. This is a common practice when building a
sourdough starter, because otherwise you end up with
more starter than you know what to do with. If you
can’t bear to throw away the extra, you can simply
fold it into pancake or waffle batter; it will not be
sour yet, but it will add the great flavor of the
sorghum itself.
By day four, we had an active and healthy starter
ready to work with. But sorghum starter on its own
did not behave quite like a traditional sourdough
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starter. Although it had the tang and the yeast


activity, it lacked the viscous elasticity of a
traditional starter.
We knew we could get extreme elasticity from ground
flaxseeds, so we began integrating them into the
starter. We figured an equal blend of sorghum to
flaxseed meal by weight would give us the correct
elasticity, so we tested that. However, we did not
count on the water-capturing ability of the flaxseed
meal: we quickly discovered that we needed to add
twice as much water to create fluid, elastic starter.
Once we had our ratio down, we began growing our
starter in earnest.
It takes about 4 days to get the starter up and
running. At certain times of the year, we crave the
tang of Country Sourdough (here) or Sourdough
Pancakes (here), and we’ve even been known to add
a little (½ cup or so) to the yeasted Chocolate Bundt
Cake (here). But we find that we use it a lot for a
while and then discard it. After a few months go by,
we get another craving and we simply start a new
one.
17.6 ounces / 500 grams sorghum flour
17.6 ounces / 500 grams flaxseed meal
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3.5 ounces / 100 grams water, plus additional water for feeding

Put the sorghum flour and flaxseed meal in a bowl and use a whisk to
combine. Put 1.76 ounces/50 grams of the starter flour into a bowl, and put
the rest of the blend in a zip-top bag and store it in the pantry for future use.
Add 3.5 ounces/100 grams of water to the bowl of flour and use a spoon to
stir the mixture together into a paste. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and
leave it in a warm space for 24 hours.

The following day, discard half the starter and add 1.76 ounces/50 grams
more flour and 3.5 ounces/100 grams water to the remaining starter. Stir the
mixture together and cover it again. Continue feeding the starter, discarding
half of each before each feeding, for a total of 5 days.

On the fifth day, the starter should have developed a nice sour flavor and
show signs of rising yeast bubbles in the mixture. It is now ready to use.
Once the starter is alive and well, you can feed it larger amounts of flour
and water, keeping them at the ratio of 1 part flour to 2 parts water by
weight. Alternatively, as your starter grows, if you are not using it on a
regular basis, you can discard some of it prior to its daily feeding. As long
as you have 17.6 ounces/500 grams or so, there will be enough food for the
yeasts and Lactobacillus brevis bacteria to keep reproducing for you.

Sorghum flour, flaxseed meal, Using a scale to feed a happy


and water mixed and ready to Sourdough Starter.
ferment into Sourdough Starter.
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Tapioca Starch / Tapioca Flour


Tapioca starch or flour is derived from the root of the
cassava plant. It is colorless when dissolved and has
no flavor or odor. Tapioca starch is used as a
thickener and tends to create gels with a softer
texture than cornstarch. It works more quickly than
cornstarch, at temperatures ranging from 126° to
150°F. (52° to 65°C.), and it imparts a glossy sheen
as it thickens. Tapioca is a popular thickener for pie
fillings and dessert sauces. It remains stable through
the freeze-thaw cycle.
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sweet-and-spicy ginger cream ice


cream
makes about 2 quarts

It’s easy to buy high-quality candied ginger, but


making it at home is a great way to use up ginger left
over from a recipe. Buy ginger that is shiny, with a
smooth, thin skin, and feels heavy in your hand. Peel
the ginger and thinly slice it with a mandoline or a
sharp knife. Cook it in a sugar syrup made with equal
parts (by weight) of sugar and water, using enough to
cover the ginger slices completely. Bring it to a boil
and cook the syrup to 225°F. (107°C.). Let the ginger
cool in the syrup and steep overnight. The next day,
drain, reserving the syrup, and toss the sliced ginger
in sugar. Store in an airtight container at room
temperature for as long as it lasts. The ginger syrup
can be used to sweeten cocktails, lemonade, iced tea,
or sparkling water.
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To make the ice cream, we steep the candied ginger


in the ice cream base and then puree the mixture to
extract the most flavor. The base is made without
eggs. Instead, we use tapioca flour as the texturizer.
The tapioca gives the ice cream the body you need to
make it feel luxurious on the tongue and a little bit of
chewiness to make it fun to eat.
5 cups + 6½ tablespoons / 1300 grams half-and-half
1¾ cups + 1 tablespoon / 75 grams nonfat milk powder
1 cup / 200 grams sugar
3 tablespoons / 18 grams tapioca starch
½ teaspoon / 3 grams fine sea salt
3½ ounces / 100 grams candied ginger

Put the half-and-half, nonfat milk powder, sugar, tapioca starch, and salt
into a medium pot and whisk them together until smooth. Set over medium
heat and cook, stirring with a silicone spatula, until the ice cream base
reaches 167°F. (75°C.) to activate the tapioca starch. Add the candied ginger
and remove from the heat. Let the ice cream base steep for 30 minutes.

Pour half of the ice cream base into a blender and turn the blender on low.
Gradually increase the speed to high and puree until the mixture appears
smooth, about 30 seconds. Strain the ice cream base through a fine-mesh
sieve into a bowl and repeat with the remaining mixture.

Refrigerate the ice cream base overnight and then freeze in an ice cream
maker according to the manufacturer’s directions.
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Xanthan Gum
Xanthan gum is a thickener created through a
fermentation of glucose or sucrose by the
Xanthomonas campestris bacterium. The xanthan
gum manufactured in the United States is often
fermented with corn sugars and so should be avoided
by anyone with a corn sensitivity. Xanthan gum is
one of the easiest thickeners to use because it is
soluble in both warm and cold liquids and works
almost instantly. It is clear, odorless, and tasteless. It
is thixotropic, meaning it has the ability to thin out
when agitated and thicken as it stands. It also has a
sticky quality that can be attractive in sauces and
dressings, allowing them to cling to the foods they
are coating. It often used in commercial ice creams
because it helps prevent the formation of ice crystals
through the freeze-thaw cycle.

Our Gluten-Free Flour Blends


We created three different gluten-free flour blends to
address different dietary needs. All three contain a
blend of gluten-free flours, starches, and proteins.
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They all weigh 4½ ounces/130 grams per cup, and


can be used interchangeably in the recipes in this
book, although the results may differ slightly in
texture. So once you decide which one you like the
most, you can use it exclusively—or you can play
around with blending them.
We are giving you the recipes by weight in grams.
All you have to do is whisk everything together and
then store the blend in an airtight container in your
pantry. You don’t need to refrigerate these; treat them
as you would regular flour, and all will be well.
Occasionally nonfat milk powder can be clumpy—if
that happens, pulse it in a food processor before
blending it with the other ingredients.
It can be hard to break the habits of a lifetime.
Wheat flours are characterized by their protein
content because the amount of gluten dictates the
structure of the finished bread or cake. Our gluten-
free blends have some protein to develop structure
but also rely on starches and gums to hold everything
together. These combinations dictate the textures of
the batters and doughs made with our blends. That
said, the differences are only apparent when you
taste-test recipes made with different blends side by
side. So pick one “all-purpose blend” that you like
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best and stick with it. Once the choice is made, you
can settle in and start cooking.
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what IiF flour 3.0


makes 15½ cups / 2020 grams flour blend

What if you had a gluten-free flour that worked in


any recipe as a gram-for-gram substitute for all-
purpose flour? That was the question was asked
ourselves when we developed this blend. “IiF” stand
for Ideas in Food, our blog, where we published the
very first version of this recipe. Alex came up with it
for fun after reading the ingredient list on Cup4Cup
flour (developed by Lena Kwak and chef Thomas
Keller), and it worked beautifully. It’s gone through a
few changes since the original, hence the 3.0, but it
remains the easiest gluten-free blend to work with. It
mimics all-purpose flour in recipes and for that
reason, using a gram-for-gram substitution in any
traditional recipe will give you comparable results.
700 grams cornstarch
500 grams tapioca starch
300 grams white rice flour
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200 grams brown rice flour


200 grams nonfat milk power
100 grams potato flour
20 grams xanthan gum

Whisk together all the ingredients in a bowl. Store in airtight container at


room temperature for up to 6 months.
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A canister of What IiF Flour 3.0, ready to be put to use.


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batch-3 flour
makes 16⅓ cups / 2120 grams flour blend

Our Batch-3 blend gives results that are akin to using


whole wheat flour. Breads and cakes made with it
tend to have a slightly coarser texture and a more
open crumb than those made with the other two
blends. We eliminated corn products in this flour,
swapping arrowroot for cornstarch to take advantage
of its thickening power, added some sorghum flour
for its sweet nutty flavor, and we used guar gum
instead of xanthan gum to add viscosity and
elasticity. This flour has a slightly richer flavor than
the What IiF flour and results in a lighter texture
than Aki’s Blend.
350 grams arrowroot
350 grams sorghum flour
450 grams tapioca starch
450 grams white rice flour (or substitute millet flour)
200 grams brown rice flour (or substitute sorghum flour)
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100 grams potato flour


200 grams milk powder
20 grams guar gum

Whisk together all the ingredients in a bowl. Store in airtight container at


room temperature for up to 6 months.
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aki’s low-allergy blend


makes 15⅓ cups / 2000 grams flour blend

Alex named this Aki’s Blend because she challenged


him to come up with a flour blend without xanthan
gum, guar gum, dairy, or soy. It’s our low-allergen
blend for people with multiple food sensitivities. It
doesn’t exclude all allergens, but it is as close as we
could get to a gluten-free flour blend that just about
anyone can use. The texture of baked goods made
with it tends to be firmer and slightly chewier than
what you get from What IiF Flour and Batch 3.
500 grams tapioca starch
500 grams glutinous rice flour (sweet rice flour)
400 grams arrowroot
300 grams sorghum flour
100 grams potato flour
200 grams golden flaxseed meal

Whisk together all the ingredients in a bowl. Store in airtight container at


room temperature for up to 6 months.
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Combining gluten-free flours to make Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend flour.


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CHAPTER 2

Blueberry Streusel Muffins


Strawberry Coffee Cake
Yeasted Pumpkin Waffles
Peach Breakfast Cake
Sourdough Pancakes
SunButter and Jelly Crumble Cake
Breakfast Bars
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Blueberry Streusel Muffins cooling on a rack: crisp topping with a hint of


the moist cake and berries underneath.
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blueberry streusel muffins


makes 12 muffins

These are regular-sized muffins, not the supersized


ones you find in many bakeries and bodegas. We like
them for their sweet, delicate crumb and healthy dose
of fruit. The oatmeal crumb topping gives them more
texture and makes them feel indulgent while adding a
hint of nuttiness from the oats. You’ll see a fair
amount of streusel throughout this book, because it
adds both texture and flavor to baked goods. We love
that little bit of sweetness and hint of crunch
contrasting with a tender interior.
streusel
¾ cup / 98 grams Gluten-Free Flour Blend (What IiF Flour 3.0, here,
Batch-3 Flour, here, or Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend, here)
¾ cup / 75 grams rolled oats
½ cup / 100 grams sugar
½ teaspoon / 3 grams fine sea salt
8 tablespoons / 4 ounces / 113 grams unsalted butter, at room
temperature
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muffins
1 cup / 130 grams Gluten-Free Flour Blend
¾ cup / 150 grams sugar
½ cup / 65 grams oat flour
2 teaspoons / 12 grams baking powder
½ teaspoon / 3 grams fine sea salt
¼ teaspoon / 0.5 gram ground cinnamon
5 tablespoons / 2⅔ ounces / 75 grams unsalted butter, melted
⅓ cup / 80 grams buttermilk
1 large egg
2 teaspoons / 4 grams pure vanilla extract
1 cup / 137 grams blueberries

Preheat the oven to 400°F. (200°C.). Line a 12-cup muffin tin with cupcake
papers.

To make the streusel, put the flour, oats, sugar, and salt in a small bowl and
whisk to blend. Add the butter and rub it into the flour mixture with your
fingers, or stir with a fork, until the mixture forms coarse crumbs. Cover
and refrigerate until needed (up to 5 days).

To make the muffins, put the flour, sugar, oat flour, baking powder, salt, and
cinnamon in a medium bowl and whisk to blend.

Put the melted butter, buttermilk, egg, and vanilla in a large measuring cup
and mix with a fork to blend. Pour into the flour mixture and mix with a
rubber spatula until combined. Fold in the blueberries.

Use a measuring cup or ice cream scoop to portion approximately ⅓ cup


batter into each muffin cup. Divide the streusel evenly among the muffins,
pressing it gently into the top of the batter.

Bake for 25 minutes, or until the muffins are golden brown and spring back
when gently pressed with a finger and a cake tester inserted in the center
comes out clean. Let cool for 10 minutes before serving.
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Blueberry muffin batter (without


Fold fresh berries into blueberry
streusel) in cupcake papers,
muffin batter.
ready to be baked.

Freshly baked blueberry muffins.


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Warm blueberry muffins (without streusel) bursting with juicy fruit.


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strawberry coffee cake


makes one 9-inch cake

This is an easy breakfast cake, perfect for a lazy


morning. You can substitute your favorite fruit for the
strawberries: bite-sized pieces of bananas, peaches,
nectarines, or blueberries all work well here,
becoming tender and juicy as they bake. The batter is
spread in the pan and then the fruit is scattered over
it and topped with the streusel. As the cake bakes, the
fruit softens into a rich jammy layer between moist
cake and crumbly topping. You can bake it the night
before and have it ready to slice in the morning.
Serve it by itself or with lightly sweetened yogurt on
the side.
streusel
½ cup + 1 tablespoon / 75 grams Gluten-Free Flour Blend (What IiF
Flour 3.0, here, Batch-3 Flour, here, or Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend,
here)
½ cup (packed) / 107 grams light brown sugar
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⅛ teaspoon / 0.75 gram fine sea salt


⅛ teaspoon / 0.375 gram grated nutmeg
4 tablespoons / 2 ounces / 56 grams unsalted butter, at room
temperature

coffee cake
1 cup + 2 tablespoons / 150 grams Gluten-Free Flour Blend
1 teaspoon / 6 grams baking powder
½ teaspoon / 3 grams fine sea salt
½ teaspoon / 1 gram ground cinnamon
8 tablespoons / 4 ounces / 113 grams unsalted butter, sliced
1 cup / 200 grams sugar
2 large eggs, at room temperature
1 teaspoon / 4 grams vanilla paste or pure vanilla extract
1 pint ripe strawberries, cut lengthwise in half

Preheat the oven to 350°F. (175°C.). Butter a 9-inch springform pan and put
it on a baking sheet.

To make the streusel, combine the flour, brown sugar, salt, and nutmeg in a
small bowl and whisk to blend thoroughly. Add the butter and use your
fingers or a fork to blend the mixture into soft crumbs. Set aside.

To make the coffee cake, combine the flour, baking powder, salt, and
cinnamon in a medium bowl and whisk to blend.

Put the butter in a medium saucepan and set it over medium heat. When half
the butter has melted, remove from the heat and swirl the pan until all of the
butter has melted. Add the sugar, eggs, and vanilla to the pan and stir with a
silicone spatula until smooth.

Pour the butter mixture into the flour mixture and stir just until blended.
Pour the mixture into the prepared cake pan and tilt the pan to spread the
batter evenly. Scatter the strawberries evenly over the batter. Sprinkle the
streusel topping evenly over the fruit.
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Bake for 55 to 65 minutes, until a cake tester inserted in the center comes
out clean (some jammy strawberries may stick to it) and the streusel is
golden brown. Let cool for 15 minutes on a rack before removing the sides
of the pan, then cool for 10 more minutes and serve warm, or let cool to
room temperature.
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yeasted pumpkin waffles


makes 12 or so waffles, depending on your waffle
iron

Mix the batter for these waffles the night before you
plan to make them. The long, slow rest allow the
flours to fully hydrate and gives the yeast a chance to
activate and multiply. When you wake up in the
morning, you will find that the batter has risen and is
full of small bubbles. It will be fragrant from the
yeast and the spices, and you might even be tempted
to stick a spoon in it and give it a taste before you
even heat up your waffle iron.
We have been lucky enough to source high-quality
ground spices and go through them relatively quickly.
Be sure to give yours a sniff before adding them to
the batter. If you don’t use cardamom on a regular
basis, you would be better off grinding whole seeds
for the most flavorful result.
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We love these fluffy, hearty waffles with butter and


maple syrup in the morning, and we love them just as
much as the base of a sundae in the evenings.
Drenched in Bourbon Caramel Sauce (here), with
vanilla ice cream and roasted pecans, pumpkin
waffles are one of the most decadent desserts we
know. If you don’t happen to have any pumpkin
puree, you could substitute a roasted squash puree,
unsweetened applesauce, or sweet potato puree.
3 large eggs
½ cup / 125 grams whole milk
15 ounces / 425 grams canned pumpkin puree
16 tablespoons (2 sticks) / 8 ounces / 225 grams unsalted butter, melted
2⅔ cups / 350 grams Gluten-Free Flour Blend (What IiF Flour 3.0,
here, Batch-3 Flour, here, or Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend, here)
½ cup / 100 grams granulated sugar
¾ teaspoon / 4.5 grams fine sea salt
¾ teaspoon / 1.5 grams grated nutmeg
½ teaspoon / 1 gram ground cinnamon
½ teaspoon / 1 gram ground cardamom
¼ teaspoon / 0.75 grams active dry yeast
2¼ cups / 500 grams raw sugar

Put the eggs, milk, pumpkin puree, and melted butter into a large bowl and
whisk to blend.

Whisk together the flour, granulated sugar, salt, nutmeg, cinnamon,


cardamom, and yeast in another large bowl. Add the pumpkin mixture and
use a rubber spatula to combine. Put the mixture into a 6-quart (6-liter)
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container, with plenty of room for it to double, cover, and let rise at room
temperature for 12 hours.

Stir the batter down and use immediately, or refrigerate for up to 2 days.
The batter will continue to slowly ferment in the refrigerator; if it seems to
be rising too much, just give it a gentle stir. The flavor will continue to
develop, becoming tangier with a pronounced yeasty flavor. If it’s been
refrigerated, let the batter come to room temperature for at least 2 hours
before using.

Heat a waffle iron. Add enough batter for one waffle to the iron, sprinkle
generously with raw sugar, and cook according to the manufacturer’s
directions. Serve warm, and continue making waffles. If you end up with
more waffles than you need you can freeze the extras and warm them up in
a toaster or cut them up to use in your favorite bread pudding recipe.
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peach breakfast cake


makes one 9-by-13-inch cake

We like to serve slices of this breakfast cake with


lightly sweetened yogurt and granola. The tender,
delicious cake is best eaten with a spoon. Served
warm with a dollop of sweetened sour cream and a
drizzle of honey, it could also be served for dessert.
The directions may seem a little odd: a layer of
melted butter followed by a layer of batter and then a
layer of fruit. Keep the faith—everything comes
together in the heat of the oven. This cake works
beautifully with any fresh or frozen fruit. In the
wintertime, we make it with frozen peaches,
transferring them to refrigerator the night before so
they can slowly defrost. As the ice crystals melt out of
the fruit, they leave microscopic holes behind that
tenderize the peaches, helping them release even
more juicy flavor into the cake.
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In a pinch, you can substitute buttermilk, heavy


cream, or even plain yogurt for the milk.
8 tablespoons / 4 ounces / 113 grams unsalted butter, sliced
1 cup / 260 grams whole milk, at room temperature
1 large egg, at room temperature
1 teaspoon / 4 grams pure vanilla extract
1 cup / 200 grams sugar
1 cup + 2 tablespoons / 150 grams Gluten-Free Flour Blend (What Iif
Flour 3.0, here, Batch-3 Flour, here, or Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend,
here)
1 teaspoon / 6 grams baking powder
½ teaspoon / 3 grams fine sea salt
4 cups sliced fresh fruit or berries or defrosted sliced fruit or berries
(about 1 pound/455 grams)

Preheat the oven to 375°F. (190°C.).

Put the butter in a 9-by-13-inch baking dish and put it in the oven for 5
minutes, or just until the butter melts. Remove from oven and leave it on the
stovetop while you prepare the batter.

Put the milk, egg, and vanilla in a large measuring cup and mix thoroughly.
Put the sugar, flour, baking powder, and salt in a medium bowl and whisk to
blend. Pour the milk mixture into the flour and mix with a rubber spatula to
blend.

Pour the batter into the baking dish over the butter. You will have two
distinct layers of melted butter and batter: do not mix them together. Lay the
fruit over the top of the batter.

Bake for 45 to 50 minutes, until the top is a deep golden brown. Let cool for
10 minutes and serve warm, or let cool to room temperature.
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Pour the batter into the melted


Peach Breakfast Cake begins
butter. The butter will rise to the
with a messy pan of melted
top, and the layers will remain
butter.
separate and look wrong.

Arrange peaches over the top of the separated batter.


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Peach Breakfast Cake straight from the oven. Everything has come
together into a sweet, tender cake studded with juicy roasted peaches.
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sourdough pancakes
makes 16 medium pancakes

Pancakes are one of our favorite breakfasts. It’s easy


to whip up a batch first thing in the morning, and you
can have a skillet of bacon or ham cooking as you
make them on your griddle. This recipe makes
pancakes that are light and fluffy, easily absorbing a
healthy slather of butter and a drizzle of warm maple
syrup. The sourdough imparts a tangy flavor that
contrasts nicely with the sweetness of syrup. The
baking soda reacts with the buttermilk, slightly
neutralizing the acidity of both it and the starter
while providing a little extra lift for the cakes.
2 cups / 260 grams Gluten-Free Flour Blend (What IiF Flour 3.0, here,
Batch-3 Flour, here, or Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend, here)
1 teaspoon / 6 grams baking powder
¾ teaspoon / 4.5 grams fine sea salt
½ teaspoon / 2.5 gram baking soda
2 cups / 480 grams buttermilk
½ cup / 90 grams Gluten-Free Sourdough Starter (here)
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2 large eggs, lightly beaten


2 tablespoons / 30 grams sugar
2 tablespoons / 1 ounce / 28 grams unsalted butter, melted
Butter and maple syrup for serving

Put the flour, baking powder, salt, and baking soda in a medium bowl and
whisk to blend. Add the buttermilk, sourdough starter, eggs, and sugar and
stir everything together with a rubber spatula until almost fully mixed. Add
the melted butter and stir until the batter is smooth and homogenous; don’t
fret about overmixing, because there’s no gluten to worry about.

Heat a nonstick electric griddle to 350°F. (175°C.) or set a cast-iron griddle


or heavy skillet over medium heat. Once hot, use a 2-ounce ladle to spoon
the pancakes onto the griddle. Let them cook until the bottoms are set and
bubbles appear on the surface. Flip the pancakes and cook until deep golden
brown on both sides. Serve immediately, with butter and maple syrup, or
keep warm in a low oven while you make the remaining pancakes.
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sunbutter and jelly crumble cake


makes one 9-inch cake

SunButter is a great alternative to peanut butter. It’s a


lightly sweetened spread made with sunflower seeds,
available in most supermarkets and health food
stores. It is delicious—with a light, earthy flavor, and
a soft nuttiness on the finish. If you don’t love
sunflower seeds, use peanut or almond butter
instead.
Most breakfast cakes take so long to mix and bake
that the cook has to be up early to get one on the
table in time. On lazy days, our solution is to use a
scone dough. It mixes up in a few minutes in a food
processor, takes well to additions and extra flavors,
and bakes relatively quickly. We roll the dough out
into two rounds, spread SunButter between them and
jelly over the top layer, and add a final layer of
streusel on top of that. The cake bakes in less than
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half an hour and makes any breakfast table look


festive and inviting.
streusel
½ cup / 65 grams Gluten-Free Flour Blend (What IiF Flour 3.0, here,
Batch-3 Flour, here, or Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend, here)
¼ cup (packed) / 53 grams light brown sugar
4 tablespoons / 2 ounces / 56 grams unsalted butter, diced, at room
temperature

scone cake
3½ cups / 450 grams Gluten-Free Flour Blend
½ cup / 100 grams sugar
2 teaspoons / 12 grams baking powder
½ teaspoon / 3 grams fine sea salt
½ teaspoon / 2.5 grams baking soda
8 tablespoons / 4 ounces / 113 grams cold unsalted butter, diced
1 cup / 240 grams buttermilk
½ cup / 140 grams SunButter (or peanut butter or almond butter)
½ cup / 170 grams strawberry jelly

Preheat the oven to 400°F. (200°C.). Line a baking sheet with parchment
paper.

To make the streusel, put the flour and brown sugar in a small bowl. Mix
well with a fork, then add the butter and mix with the fork or your fingertips
until the mixture comes together in small crumbs. Cover and refrigerate.

To make the cake, put the flour, sugar, baking powder, salt, and baking soda
in a food processor and pulse a few times to blend. Add the butter and pulse
to blend; the mixture should look like crumbs. Add the buttermilk and pulse
until the dough begins to clump together.
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Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and knead it a couple of
times just until it is smooth. Divide the dough in half and use your hands to
shape each half into an 8-inch round.

Put one round on the prepared baking sheet. Spread the SunButter evenly
over the top, leaving a ¼-inch border all around. Top with the other round
of dough and gently press them together, making sure the sides are even and
clean—use a butter knife or spatula to scrape off any oozing SunButter so it
doesn’t burn in the oven. Spread the strawberry jelly evenly over the top,
from edge to edge. Sprinkle the streusel evenly over the jelly.

Bake for 20 minutes, or until a cake tester inserted in the center comes out
clean and the sides are golden brown. Let the cake cool on the baking sheet
for 10 minutes before serving.
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breakfast bars
makes 16 bars

These portable pastries are reminiscent of Toaster


Strudels, but so much better. They are just right for
breakfast on the run. The dough is made with a
combination of butter and sour cream, giving it a
balanced flavor that complements the fruit filling. We
created this in the wintertime, when fresh fruit was
scarce, so we looked to the pantry and our collection
of dried fruit. You don’t need as much dried fruit as
you would fresh, because the dehydration process
concentrates the flavor. The pastry is rich and flaky,
the sugar on top of the dough adds crunch and a little
extra sweetness, and the dried berries gives the bars
a bright, fruity flavor.
2½ cups / 325 grams Gluten-Free Flour Blend (What IiF Flour 3.0,
here, Batch-3 Flour, here, or Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend, here)
½ teaspoon / 3 grams fine sea salt
16 tablespoons (2 sticks) / 8 ounces / 225 grams unsalted butter, diced,
at room temperature
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1 cup / 240 grams sour cream, at room temperature


½ cup / 100 grams raw sugar, plus more for the tops
1 cup / 145 grams dried blueberries, cherries, or cranberries

Put the flour and salt in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle
attachment (or use a hand mixer) and mix on low to blend. Add the butter
and sour cream and mix on low just until a smooth dough forms. Turn the
dough out, wrap in plastic wrap, and chill for at least 4 hours.

Unwrap the chilled dough and divide it into 4 equal pieces. Lay two 18-
inch-long sheets of plastic wrap overlapping them on the counter, so they
form a 13-by-18-inch rectangle. Put a piece of dough in the center of the
plastic wrap and cover with two more sheets of plastic wrap. Roll the dough
into a 9-by-12-inch rectangle. Remove the top layer of plastic wrap. Dust
the top surface of the dough with 2 tablespoons of the raw sugar. Sprinkle ¼
cup of the dried blueberries over the dough. Starting from a long side, use
the plastic wrap to roll the dough over itself 3 times so you have a cylinder
approximately 12 inches long and 2½ inches wide. Gently roll the dough
into a bar approximately ½ inch thick, and wrap in the plastic wrap. Repeat
with the remaining dough, sugar, and berries to make 3 more bars.
Refrigerate for at least 1 hour.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. (175°C.). Line two large baking sheets with
parchment paper.

Remove the bars from the refrigerator and cut each one into 4 equal pieces.
Sprinkle raw sugar over the top of each one. Arrange them on the prepared
pans, leaving at least 2 inches of space between them. Bake the bars for 20
minutes, or until they are browning on the edges and the tops have begun to
split. Let cool for at least 15 minutes and enjoy warm, or cool to room
temperature and store in a covered container for up to 3 days.
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CHAPTER 3

Easiest Buttermilk Drop Biscuits


Honey-Glazed Break-Apart Biscuits
Cheddar Jalapeño Corn Biscuits
Crunchy Upside-Down Bacon Corn Bread
The Lightest Corn Bread Ever
Sticky Maple Scones
Lemon Ginger Scones
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easiest buttermilk drop biscuits


makes 6 biscuits

These are quite possibly the easiest biscuits to make


in the world. You don’t even have to roll them out—
just scoop the dough out of the food processor onto a
sheet pan and bake. The little bits of butter in the
batter melt as the biscuits bake, providing a little
steam leavening as the water evaporates, and leaving
behind small butter-soaked holes that give the
biscuits a moist, tender texture. Their rustic
appearance tells everyone that you made them
yourself with the best ingredients and a little bit of
love. Add some sausage gravy or a few slices of
country ham, and you have the perfect breakfast for a
cold winter morning.
2⅓ cups / 300 grams Gluten-Free Flour Blend (What IiF Flour 3.0,
here, Batch-3 Flour, here, or Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend, here)
2 teaspoons / 12 grams baking powder
1 teaspoon / 4 grams sugar
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½ teaspoon / 3 grams fine sea salt


8 tablespoons / 4 ounces / 113 grams cold unsalted butter, diced
1 cup / 240 grams buttermilk

Preheat the oven to 400°F. (200°C.).

Put the flour, baking powder, sugar, and salt in a food processor and pulse
to blend. Add the butter and pulse 2 or 3 times; there should still be small
chunks of butter in the mix. Add the buttermilk and pulse until the dough
comes together; it will be a wet dough.

Remove the blade and portion out about ½ cup of dough per biscuit (you
can use a 4-ounce ice cream scoop if you have one), dropping them onto the
prepared pan and leaving 3 inches of space between them; these will spread
as they bake. Bake for 18 to 20 minutes, until golden brown. Let cool for 5
minutes before serving.

Use a large ice-cream scoop to Just-baked Easiest Buttermilk


portion the biscuits Drop Biscuits.
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Easiest Buttermilk Drop Biscuits and honey.


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honey-glazed break-apart biscuits


makes 9 biscuits

These were inspired by Shirley Corriher’s famous


Touch of Grace biscuits. We like the way she
combines cream and buttermilk to get both richness
and tang. The cream adds liquid fat to the dough and
the buttermilk brings acidity to balance the richness.
For this recipe, we work the butter completely into
the flour to thoroughly coat the starch, resulting in
very tender, uniformly textured biscuits. We especially
love the way the honey and cinnamon combination
brings out the nutty flavors of the crust, while at the
same eliminating any residual bitterness from the
baking powder. We serve these biscuits with Japanese
Fried Chicken (here).
biscuits
2⅓ cups / 300 grams Gluten-Free Flour Blend (What IiF Flour 3.0,
here, Batch-3 Flour, here, or Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend, here)
¼ cup / 50 grams sugar
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2 teaspoons / 12 grams baking powder


1½ teaspoons / 9 grams fine sea salt
4 tablespoons / 2 ounces / 56 grams cold unsalted butter, finely diced
¾ cup / 180 grams buttermilk
⅔ cup /160 grams heavy cream

glaze
2 tablespoons / 1 ounce / 28 grams unsalted butter
2 tablespoons / 33 grams honey
¼ teaspoon / 0.5 gram ground cinnamon

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees F. (220°C.). Spray a 9-inch round cake pan
with nonstick cooking spray.

Put the flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt in a bowl and whisk to
combine. Add the butter and use your fingers to work it into the flour until
there are no lumps and the mixture looks sandy. Stir in the buttermilk and
heavy cream. The dough will be very sticky.

Use a large spoon or ice cream scoop to dollop 9 biscuits into the prepared
pan. Bake until lightly browned, about 25 minutes.

Meanwhile, make the glaze: Melt the butter and honey with the cinnamon
in a small saucepan; remove from the heat.

Remove the biscuits from the oven and brush with the glaze. Return to the
oven and bake for 3 more minutes. The biscuits will absorb the glaze and
become a deep golden brown. Remove from the oven and let them rest for 5
minutes.

Run a butter knife or small spatula around the inside of the pan to loosen
the biscuits and transfer to a bread basket lined with a napkin. Serve warm.
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cheddar jalapeño corn biscuits


makes at least 1 dozen biscuits

Rich from the cheddar cheese, with a bit of kick from


the jalapeño, these biscuits are practically a meal on
their own. We like a little kick from the pepper, so we
use the whole chile. Most of the heat is contained in
the seeds and the membranes. An easy way to remove
them is to cut the bottom off the jalapeño pepper so
you can stand it up on your cutting board, holding
the stem. Then use a small paring knife to slice the
flesh of the pepper away from the membranes and
seeds, cutting from top to bottom and rotating the
pepper as you go. You will end up with long slices of
pepper flesh and the seeds and membranes will
remain attached to the stem; discard them.
Fleur de sel is a crunchy finishing salt with a light
texture and clean flavor. It is produced by harvesting
the thin layer of crystallized salt that rises to the tops
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of pools of seawater in coastal areas of France,


mainly in Brittany. We sprinkle it on the biscuits to
add a salty, crunchy accent that makes the overall
experience of eating them a little bit more fun and
flavorful.
2 cups / 260 grams Gluten-Free Flour Blend (What IiF Flour 3.0, here,
Batch-3 Flour, here, or Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend, here)
1 cup / 116 grams corn flour
2 teaspoons / 12 grams baking powder
½ teaspoon / 2.5 grams baking soda
½ teaspoon / 3 grams fine sea salt
1 jalapeño pepper, thinly sliced (remove the seeds and membranes if
you don’t want too much heat; see headnote)
8 tablespoons / 4 ounces / 113 grams cold unsalted butter
4 ounces / 113 grams sharp cheddar cheese, cut into small dice
1 cup / 240 grams buttermilk
Heavy cream for brushing the biscuits
Fleur de sel

Preheat the oven to 400°F. (200°C.). Line a baking sheet with parchment
paper.

Put the flour, corn flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and jalapeño in a
food processor and pulse to blend and chop the chile. Add the butter and
cheese and pulse 2 or 3 times to blend. Add the buttermilk and process just
until the dough comes together.

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured countertop and knead it a few
times. Using a rolling pin roll the dough out about an inch thick. Use a 1½-
to 2-inch round biscuit cutter to cut out biscuits and arrange 2 inches apart
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on the prepared baking sheet. Pull the scraps together, reroll, and cut out
more biscuits.

Brush the biscuits with heavy cream and sprinkle fleur de sel over the tops.
Bake for 15 to 18 minutes, or until the biscuits are a deep golden brown. Let
cool for 5 minutes before serving.
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crunchy upside-down bacon corn


bread
makes one 10-inch round bread

We use masa harina instead of cornmeal in the batter


for this bread. It has a finer texture that will appeal
to anyone who loves corn bread (even without
bacon). The Smoked Masa Harina (here) makes a
great substitution, especially if you want to omit the
bacon. Even without the smoking, masa harina’s
slightly nutty corn flavor gives the bread an extra
flavor boost. We pour the corn bread batter over the
cooked bacon in the skillet to bake, then unmold the
bread onto a plate so the bacon is on top. It looks
incredibly appetizing and you’ll be swatting your
family’s fingers away to get it to the table in one
piece.
If you happen to be one of those people who doesn’t
eat bacon, you can leave it out and substitute 2
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ounces/56 grams melted butter. The bread will still be


moist and full of corn flavor.
6 slices thick-cut bacon, cut into small, ½-inch-wide strips
Melted butter if needed
1 cup/160 grams corn flour
½ cup / 75 grams masa harina
½ cup / 65 grams Gluten-Free Flour Blend (What IiF Flour 3.0, here,
Batch-3 Flour, here, or Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend, here)
1 tablespoon / 12.5 grams sugar
2 teaspoons / 12 grams baking powder
1 teaspoon / 6 grams fine sea salt
½ teaspoon / 2.5 grams baking soda
2½ cups / 600 grams buttermilk, at room temperature

Preheat the oven to 450°F. (230°C.).

Put the bacon in a cold 10-inch cast-iron or other ovenproof skillet, set over
medium-low heat, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the fat renders and
the bacon crisps. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the bacon to a plate lined
with paper towels.

Pour the bacon fat into a heatproof measuring cup. If there is less than ¼
cup, add melted butter to make up the difference. Do not clean out the
skillet.

Put the corn flour, masa harina, flour, sugar, baking powder, salt, and baking
soda in a large bowl and whisk to blend. Add the buttermilk and bacon fat
and mix with a rubber spatula, stirring vigorously for about 30 seconds to
blend well.

Scatter the cooked bacon over the bottom of the skillet and pour in the
batter. Put the skillet in the oven and bake for 20 to 25 minutes, until the
corn bread is golden brown. Let cool for 15 minutes, then invert the bread
onto a wire rack to cool completely.
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Crunchy bacon-topped corn bread, still warm and ready to indulge.


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the lightest corn bread ever


makes 12 individual breads

Corn bread is normally somewhat dense and fine-


textured because of the cornmeal. For this recipe, we
played around with the idea of making corn bread
into something airy and super-light. We use smoked
masa harina to mimic the rich flavor of corn bread
cooked in a skillet over a wood fire. We sweeten it
with a little maple syrup to bring out the earthy notes
in the corn. The powdered egg whites give structure
to the bread without adding more liquid, as
additional regular egg whites would. Then we aerate
the batter in a whipped cream canister (found at
Williams-Sonoma, specialty kitchen stores, and
online), dispense it into paper cups, and cook it in the
microwave.
There is a small amount of bourbon in this recipe. As
of this writing, distilled alcohol is considered gluten-
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free as long as there are no other flavorings added


after distilling. If you have found that you are
sensitive to bourbon or other brown liquors, feel free
to substitute rum or leave it out entirely. We like the
complex flavor bourbon gives the bread,
supplementing the natural corn flavor of the masa
harina, but the bread will still be delicious without it.
½ cup / 130 grams whole milk
7 tablespoons / 105 grams pure maple syrup, preferably Grade B
4 large eggs
2 large egg whites
¼ cup / 50 grams sugar
1 tablespoon / 14 grams bourbon
6 tablespoons / 50 grams Gluten-Free Flour Blend (What IiF Flour 3.0,
here, Batch-3 Flour, here, or Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend, here)
5 tablespoons / 50 grams corn flour
2½ tablespoons / 25 grams Smoked Masa Harina (here)
½ cup / 35 grams powdered egg whites
½ teaspoon / 3 grams fine sea salt
⅛ teaspoon / 0.25 gram cayenne
6½ tablespoons / 3¼ ounces / 90 grams unsalted butter, melted

Special Equipment: 1-quart whipped cream dispenser; 12 unwaxed 10-


ounce paper cups

Put the milk, maple syrup, eggs, egg whites, sugar, and bourbon in a
blender, turn it on to medium, and blend the mixture until it is smooth,
about 15 seconds. Add the flour, corn flour, smoked masa harina, powdered
egg whites, salt, and cayenne, increase the speed to high, and blend for 15
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seconds, or until the mixture is smooth. Turn the speed down to medium-
high, pour in the butter, and blend for 15 seconds.

Strain the batter through a fine-mesh sieve. (Straining is necessary to


remove any large bits of masa harina or corn flour, which could clog the
whipped cream canister.) Pour half the mixture into a 1-quart whipped
cream dispenser and put the lid on. Charge the canister with two N2O
charges, shaking vigorously after adding each one to disperse the gas and
allow it to be absorbed by the batter. The batter should feel and sound fluid
in the canister.

Prepare 12 unwaxed 10-ounce paper cups for microwaving the bread: Turn
the cups over and use a paring knife to make a ½-inch slit in the bottom and
three ½-inch slits around the sides of each cup. Turn the cups back over.

Shake the whipped cream canister and fill one cup one-third full. (The
batter will be thick enough that it won’t spill out through the cuts in the
cup.) Put the cup into the microwave and cook on high for 30 seconds. The
batter will rise and solidify into a soft mass resembling a sea sponge.
Immediately remove the bread from the microwave and invert the cup onto
a cutting board or countertop. Let the corn bread cool upside down while
you cook the remaining breads. Refill and recharge the canister when
necessary.

When all of the breads are completely cool, run a paring knife around the
inside of each cup to loosen the bread, invert the cup, and shake gently to
remove the bread and serve. Alternatively, the corn bread can be
refrigerated in the inverted cups overnight before being unmolded. The
refrigerated corn bread will stay moist and tender and keep its light, airy
texture and shape. Pull them out about 30 minutes before you want to serve
them so they come to room temperature. You can eat them cold, but the
texture and flavor are best at room temperature.
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sticky maple scones


makes 8 or 9 scones (depending on the pan)

These scones are baked in a pool of maple syrup and


butter. They steam a bit as they cook, so their insides
stay moist and tender while the tops turn golden
brown and the maple syrup bubbles and caramelizes
around the scones. When they come out of the oven,
you immediately turn them out onto a platter and
they end up with sticky maple caramel tops. The
scones are almost as soft as biscuits, tender and rich.
We like them with thick-cut bacon or fennel sausage,
a little protein to round out the meal.
maple syrup topping
1 cup / 240 grams pure maple syrup, preferably Grade B
4 tablespoons / 2 ounces / 56 grams unsalted butter, sliced
¼ teaspoon / 1.5 grams fine sea salt

scones
3 cups / 390 grams Gluten-Free Flour Blend (What IiF Flour 3.0, here,
Batch-3 Flour, here, or Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend, here), plus more for
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dusting
½ cup / 100 grams sugar
2 teaspoons / 12 grams baking powder
¾ teaspoon / 4.5 grams fine sea salt
½ teaspoon / 2.5 grams baking soda
8 tablespoons / 4 ounces / 113 grams cold unsalted butter, sliced
½ cup / 70 grams whole raw almonds
1¼ cups / 300 grams buttermilk

Preheat the oven to 400°F. (200°C.).

To make the topping, put the maple syrup and butter in a deep 8-inch square
cake pan or a deep 9-inch cast-iron skillet and put in the oven for 5 minutes,
or until the butter just melts. Remove from the oven and stir in the salt. Set
aside on the stovetop so the butter stays liquid.

To make the scones, put the flour, sugar, baking powder, salt, and baking
soda in a food processor and pulse to blend. Add the butter and almonds and
pulse 4 or 5 times to blend and chop the nuts. Add the buttermilk and pulse
just until the mixture comes together into a dough.

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured countertop and knead a few times,
until smooth. If the dough seems too wet, simply push it together and pat it
into shape; it will be slightly less “short” in texture but still delicious. Shape
into a 7-inch square or an 8-inch circle, depending on the pan you are using,
and dust the top with flour. Cut the square into 9 equal pieces or the circle
into 8 equal wedges and arrange them in the prepared pan, re-forming the
square or circle in the pool of butter and maple syrup. The liquid will come
up around each piece, bathing the scones in flavor.

Bake for 30 to 35 minutes, until the scones are golden brown on top.
Remove from the oven, immediately run a butter knife around the perimeter
of the pan, and turn the scones out onto a large plate or platter. (You must
do this while everything is still bubbling hot, or the caramel will stick to the
pan.) You may need to rap the pan a few times to help the scones break free.
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They will have baked together, but the individual pieces can be easily
pulled apart. Let cool for at least 5 minutes and serve warm.

Immediately run a knife around


Sticky Maple Scones will float in the perimeter of the pan when
their sticky topping in the baking the scones come out of the oven
dish. and turn them out onto a large
plate.

Unmolded hot Sticky Maple Scones, almost ready to be carefully


broken apart.
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Tender, gooey, Sticky Maple Scones, pulled apart.


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lemon ginger scones


makes 1 dozen scones

We love the scent of these scones: it just seems to


wake up all of our senses. They are especially nice in
the wintertime, when citrus is in season and there is
not much other fruit available. Lemons are known for
their bright refreshing flavor and ginger for its
warming and soothing qualities. Together they make
a great combination to ease you into your day.
Meyer lemons have an intriguing floral flavor;
substituting tangerine zest is fun way to change
things up. You can buy diced candied ginger for this
recipe, but we find that the sliced candied ginger that
we get locally tends to be fresher and softer, so we
buy that and simply dice it ourselves—or we make
our own candied ginger (see here.) Good candied
ginger has a wonderful chewy quality. It softens as it
bakes and then firms up again as it cools, so that
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warm scones are chewier and cooled scones have a


little bit of crunch.
3 cups / 390 grams Gluten-Free Flour Blend (What IiF Flour 3.0, here,
Batch-3 Flour, here, or Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend, here)
½ cup / 100 grams granulated sugar
1 tablespoon / 18 grams baking powder
¾ teaspoon / 4.5 grams fine sea salt
Grated zest of 1 lemon, preferably a Meyer lemon
8 tablespoons / 4 ounces / 113 grams cold unsalted butter, cut into large
dice
1 cup / 240 grams heavy cream, plus extra for brushing
¼ cup / 46 grams diced candied ginger
¼ cup / 56 grams raw sugar

Preheat the oven to 400°F. (200°C.). Line a large baking sheet with
parchment paper.

Put the flour, sugar, baking powder, salt, and lemon zest in a food processor
and pulse to blend. Add the butter and pulse 2 or 3 times to blend; there
should still be small chunks of butter in the mix. Add the heavy cream and
pulse until the mixture comes together into a rough dough.

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and sprinkle the candied
ginger over it. Use a bench scraper to fold the ginger into the dough until it
is evenly distributed and the dough is smooth.

Divide the dough in half and roll each piece out into an 8-inch circle. Cut
each circle into 6 equal wedges and arrange them on the prepared baking
sheet. Brush with heavy cream and sprinkle the raw sugar over the tops.

Bake for 15 to 18 minutes, until the tops of the scones are a deep golden
brown. Let cool for 10 minutes before serving warm, or let cool completely.
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NOTE: If you love ginger, we have a great trick for you. Buy or make extra
candied ginger and put it in a Mason jar. Close the lid and put it on a rack
set over 2 inches of water inside your pressure cooker. Cook at high
pressure for 2 rounds of 90 minutes each (this is much easier with an
electric pressure cooker, adding more water after the first round if
necessary). The ginger will caramelize and soften and turn into some of the
best natural candy you will ever taste.

Use a bench scraper to cut The raw sugar coating gives the
Lemon Ginger Scones into scones a sweet and crunchy
triangles. exterior.

Fragrant Lemon Ginger Scones cooling on a sheet pan.


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Lemon Ginger Scones with salted butter.


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CHAPTER 4

Chinese Steamed Buns


Crumpets
Potato Bread
Butter-Stuffed Dinner Rolls
Country Sourdough
Microwave Sourdough Soft Rolls
Buttermilk Brioche
Kouign Amann
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Marcona Almond Marzipan–Enriched Stollen


Stollen Doughnuts
Doughnuts
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chinese steamed buns


makes 12 buns

Chinese steamed buns are soft and slightly sweet,


with a faintly nutty flavor from the sesame oil. We
refrigerate the dough overnight to ensure hydration
and give the yeast time to work. The steamed buns
are traditionally stuffed with hoisin sauce, pickles or
sliced vegetables, and roast duck or pork. You can
serve these buns slathered with our Homemade
Hoisin Sauce and stuffed with sautéed shrimp,
roasted mushrooms, fried eggs, braised pork belly, or
even Texas chili. Their sweet flavor and soft texture
will go with almost anything your imagination can
come up with. We sometimes serve them as dinner
rolls, and they are the base for an infinite number of
sandwiches. We often make extra dough just so we
can have some fresh buns for the morning. We split
them and griddle the insides, leaving the exterior
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soft, and stuff each one with ham, a soft-boiled egg,


and a spoonful of hollandaise sauce.
3⅔ cups / 450 grams Gluten-Free Flour Blend (What IiF Flour 3.0,
here, Batch-3 Flour, here, or Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend, here)
1 tablespoon / 12.5 grams sugar
1 teaspoon / 3 grams instant yeast
½ teaspoon / 3 grams fine sea salt
1¾ cups + 1 tablespoon / 390 grams water
1 teaspoon / 4.5 grams baking powder
1 teaspoon / 3 grams Asian sesame oil
2 tablespoons / 20 grams olive oil
Homemade Hoisin Sauce (here) for serving

Put the flour, sugar, yeast, and salt into a large bowl and whisk together.
Make a well in the center of the flour and pour in the water. Use your
fingertips to start pulling the flour into the water and then begin to form a
mass as you incorporate all of the flour. Keep squeezing and then kneading
the mixture until it becomes a ball.

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and knead for 5 minutes,
or until it is silky and smooth. Form the dough into a ball, put it into a bowl,
and cover with plastic wrap. Let rise for 3 to 4 hours at room temperature,
until it has doubled in size.

Transfer the dough to a countertop and flatten it with your hands. Sprinkle
the baking powder over the dough, fold the dough over, and knead the
dough for 5 to 7 minutes, until it is a silky, springy ball. Put the dough into a
clean bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate overnight.

The next day, remove the dough from the refrigerator and let it proof, still
covered, at room temperature for 2 hours. The dough will have come to
room temperature and risen slightly.
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Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface. Use a bench scraper or a
sharp knife to divide it into 12 even pieces. Roll each piece of dough into
ball. Using a rolling pin, roll each ball into an oval approximately 3 inches
in diameter.

Combine the sesame and olive oil in a small bowl. Brush the surface of
each oval with the oil and then fold it in half (with the oil on the inside).
Brush two plates that will fit inside your steamer with the oil blend and
arrange 6 buns on each plate.

Pour 1 inch of water into a large pot, set a steaming rack inside and bring to
a boil over high heat. Put the first plate of buns in the steamer, cover, and
cook for 15 minutes. Turn off the heat, crack the lid, and let the buns rest for
1 minute. Remove the plate from the steamer, turn the heat back on and
cook the second plate of buns in the same manner; add more water to the
pot if needed. Serve immediately with hoisin sauce.

Let any leftover buns cool completely and wrap in plastic wrap. To reheat,
steam for 10 to 15 minutes.

Just mixed Steamed Buns Steamed Buns dough dusted


dough. with flour and ready for
kneading.
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Kneaded dough shaped into a Risen dough dusted with baking


ball and ready to rise. powder.

Steamed Buns dough after the Steamed Buns dough rising at


baking powder is kneaded in. It room temperature after chilling
will become sticky. overnight.
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The combination of sesame and


Cooked Chinese Steamed Buns
olive oils gives the buns a
in a bamboo steamer.
slightly nutty flavor.
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Slather the Chinese Steamed Buns with hoisin sauce and fill with
Japanese Fried Chicken (here) and cucumbers.
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homemade hoisin sauce


makes 4 cups

If you are making Chinese Steamed Buns (here), you


need hoisin sauce. Have you ever read the label on a
bottle of hoisin sauce? Let’s just say it will make you
want to put it back on the shelf. But once you’ve
tasted soft steamed buns slathered with sweet, tangy
hoisin sauce and stuffed with bits of leftover
Japanese Fried Chicken (here) and thinly sliced
jalapeños, or roasted mushrooms with fresh tarragon,
or even just some spicy kimchi, you’ll realize that
hoisin does make everything better. Our solution?
Make your own hoisin sauce. If you have this in your
pantry, you’ll never miss the stuff in a bottle.
10¼ ounces / 290 grams pitted prunes
1 medium onion, thinly sliced
2 cups / 450 grams apple cider
4½ tablespoons / 75 grams soy sauce
2½ teaspoons / 5 grams smoked paprika
2 teaspoons / 4.6 grams black peppercorns
1 piece star anise
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Put the prunes, onion, apple cider, soy sauce, smoked paprika, peppercorns,
and star anise in a pressure cooker and cook on high pressure for 20
minutes. Let the pressure release naturally.

Remove the lid, remove the star anise, and transfer and the mixture to a
blender. Turn the blender on low, then gradually increase the speed to
medium-high and puree for 30 seconds. Strain the puree through a fine-
mesh strainer into a bowl and cool the sauce over an ice bath.

Hoisin sauce will keep in a covered container in the refrigerator for up to 3


months.
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crumpets
makes 1 dozen crumpets

Crumpets and English muffins are classic British


breads, but English muffins are much more common
here in the States. They are generally split and
toasted so that they are crispy, crunchy vehicles for
butter and jam. Crumpets are softer and thinner and
usually served whole, preserving their tender, slightly
chewy interior. They have a wonderful soft, springy
texture that makes them unique. Crumpets are
classically served with tea, toasted and slathered
with butter or honey or, if you’re feeling decadent,
with jam and clotted cream.
2 cups / 260 grams Gluten-Free Flour Blend (What IiF Flour 3.0, here,
Batch-3 Flour, here, or Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend, here)
1 tablespoon / 12.5 grams sugar
2 teaspoons / 6 grams instant yeast
1 cup / 240 grams buttermilk
1 cup / 225 grams water
3 large eggs
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¾ teaspoon / 4.5 grams fine sea salt


¼ teaspoon / 1.25 grams baking soda

Special equipment: Six 3½-inch flan rings or ring molds

Put the flour, sugar, and yeast into a large bowl and use a whisk to blend
them together.

Put the buttermilk, water, and eggs into a medium bowl and whisk together.
Pour the buttermilk mixture over the flour mixture and whisk until you have
a smooth batter. Cover the batter with plastic wrap and let it rise in a warm
spot for 3 hours.

Preheat an electric griddle to 300°F. (150°C.) or set an cast-iron griddle or


heavy pan over medium heat.

Remove the plastic wrap from the bowl. The batter will have risen and
thickened, and bubbles will cover the surface. Sprinkle the salt and baking
soda over the top and whisk them in. The batter will bubble and rise. Pour
the batter into a large glass measuring cup or a bowl with a spout.

Put six flan rings on the hot griddle. Spray the rings and the griddle with
nonstick cooking spray. Fill each ring just to the top with batter. Cook the
crumpets for 12 to 15 minutes, until the tops are full of holes and appear dry
and set. Use a spatula to flip the crumpets, still in their rings, and cook for
another 5 minutes, or until firm to the touch. Transfer the crumpets to a rack
and remove the rings with tongs. Repeat with the remaining batter.

Serve the crumpets warm, or cool and refrigerate until ready to use.
Rewarm in a toaster or on a griddle in butter. (They can be stored in a zip-
top bag in the refrigerator for up to a week.)
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Griddled Crumpets cooling on a wire rack.


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potato bread
makes one 13-by-4-inch loaf

This is our version of American sandwich bread. The


recipe makes a slightly sweet loaf with a fine, moist
crumb and a delicate yeasty flavor. The cooked
potato adds its own flavor and contributes some fully
hydrated starch to help bind the dough and hold on
to moisture.
Note that the dough rises almost entirely before we
put it in the oven. The lack of oven spring is one of
those quirks of gluten-free baking and a good
reminder that although some of these recipes might
seem exactly the same as their wheat flour
counterparts, they behave differently. It is important
to read this recipe, especially the baking instructions,
and follow it carefully.
10½ ounces / 300 grams russet potato (1 large or 2 medium), peeled,
quartered, and thinly sliced
1½ cups / 337.5 grams water
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1¼ teaspoons / 7.5 grams fine sea salt


1 cup / 260 grams whole milk
2 tablespoons / 6 grams instant yeast
1 tablespoon / 12.5 grams sugar
6 large eggs
4⅔ cups / 600 grams Gluten-Free Flour Blend (What IiF Flour 3.0,
here, Batch-3 Flour, here, or Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend, here)

Special Equipment: A 13-by-4-by-4-inch pain-de-mie or Pullman loaf pan

Put the potatoes, water, and ¼ teaspoon of the salt in a medium saucepan
and bring to a simmer over medium heat, then turn the heat down and cook
the potatoes until fork-tender, about 15 minutes. Transfer the potatoes and
their liquid to a bowl and let cool.

Add the remaining 1 teaspoon salt, the milk, yeast, and sugar to the potatoes
and stir to combine. Put the potato mixture and eggs in a blender. Turn the
blender on low, gradually increase the speed to medium-high, and puree for
30 seconds, or until the mixture is smooth.

Transfer the potato mixture to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the
paddle attachment (or use a hand mixer), add the flour, and mix on low until
all of the potato mixture has been absorbed by the flour. Increase the speed
to medium-high and beat for 30 seconds, or until the dough appears smooth
and elastic.

Use a rubber spatula to scrape the dough into a clean bowl. Cover with
plastic wrap and let it rise for 2½ hours, until not quite doubled.

Grease a 13-by-4-by-4-inch pain-de-mie or Pullman loaf pan and lid. Use a


rubber spatula to stir the dough together and then transfer it to the prepared
loaf pan. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and let rise for 2 hours, or until it
reaches top of the pan.

Meanwhile, 1 hour before baking, preheat the oven to 400°F. (200°C.).


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Remove the plastic wrap from the pan and slide the lid into place. Bake the
bread for 45 minutes. Turn the heat down to 350°F. (180°C.) and bake for
30 minutes more.

Turn the heat down to 300°F. (150°C.). Remove the top of the pan and bake
the bread uncovered for 20 minutes.

Remove the bread from the oven and invert it onto a rack set over a baking
sheet. Lift off the pan and bake the bread for 10 more minutes. The internal
temperature should be 210° to 212°F. (99° to 100°C.).

Turn off the oven, open the door, and let the bread cool on the rack for 30
minutes.

Remove the bread from the oven, transfer to a rack, and let cool to room
temperature completely before cutting. Well-wrapped the bread will keep at
cool room temperature for up to a week—if you don’t finish it all before
then.

Potato Bread dough, first rise. After the first rise, the dough is
transferred to a loaf pan to rise
again.
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The dough is now fully risen and Baked Potato Bread cooling on a
ready to be baked. wire rack.
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Slice the cooled Potato Bread for sandwiches or toast.


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butter-stuffed dinner rolls


makes 12 rolls

Dinner rolls tend to be special-occasion food,


reserved for weekend or holiday dinners. When was
the last time you made rolls? The beauty of these,
besides being soft, crusty, and delicious, is that they
freeze well, so you can keep the extras in your freezer
and pull them out at a moment’s notice. Ten to fifteen
minutes in a hot oven, and any meal can be a special
occasion.
While this recipe may resemble hundreds of other
recipes for dinner rolls, aside from the gluten-free
flour, one other ingredient stands out in the list: the
egg white powder. We use it in many recipes because
it contributes protein and structure to gluten-free
baked goods without noticeably altering the flavor.
3¾ cups / 490 grams Gluten-Free Flour Blend (What IiF Flour 3.0,
here, Batch-3 Flour, here, or Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend, here)
¼ cup / 17 grams powdered egg whites
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3 tablespoons / 37.5 grams sugar


1¾ teaspoons / 10.5 grams salt
1½ teaspoons / 4.5 grams instant yeast
1 cup + 2½ tablespoons / 300 grams whole milk, at room temperature,
plus 2 tablespoons / 28 grams milk for the egg wash
⅔ cup / 150 grams buttermilk, at room temperature
2 large eggs, at room temperature
8 tablespoons / 4 ounces / 113 grams unsalted butter, melted, plus 2
ounces / 56 grams cold unsalted butter, cut into 12 pieces
1 large egg yolk

Put the flour, powdered egg whites, sugar, salt, and yeast into a large bowl
and stir together with a whisk.

Put the milk, buttermilk, eggs, and melted butter into a medium bowl and
whisk together. Pour the liquid mixture into the dry mixture and use a
rubber spatula to fold the ingredients together until a dough forms. Let it
stand for 10 minutes to hydrate the dry ingredients.

Turn the dough out and knead for 5 minutes, or until it is smooth and silky.
Put the dough in a clean bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and let rise for 2
hours.

Gently loosen the dough from the bowl. Slide one hand under one side of
the dough, fold that side of the dough over into the center, and press down
gently so it adheres to itself. Give the bowl a quarter turn and repeat the
folding process. Do this two more times. After the fourth fold, flip over the
dough so the seams are on the bottom. Cover with plastic wrap and let rise
for 2 hours.

Line a large baking sheet with plastic wrap. Knock the dough down and put
it on the baking sheet. Cover the dough with another sheet of plastic wrap
and refrigerate for at least 8 hours, or as long as overnight.

Spray a muffin tin with nonstick cooking spray. Remove the dough from the
refrigerator and transfer to a work surface, still between the sheets of plastic
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wrap. Roll the dough out, between the sheets of plastic wrap, into a 10-by-
13-inch rectangle. Cut the dough lengthwise in half. Brush the entire
surface of the dough with some of the melted butter. Fold each piece of
dough lengthwise in half. Brush with butter and then flip each piece over.
Brush the bottom sides with butter.

Cut each strip of dough into 6 equal pieces. Roll each one into a ball and
put into the muffin tin. Carefully press 1 piece of butter into the center of
each ball. Cover the rolls gently with plastic wrap and let proof for 45
minutes, or until light and puffy; the tops should spring back when gently
pressed with a finger.

Preheat the oven to 375°F. (190°C.).

Put the egg yolk and the 2 tablespoons milk into a small bowl and whisk
together.

Remove the plastic from the rolls. Brush the tops of the rolls with the egg
wash. Bake for 20 minutes. Rotate the tin and turn the oven up to 425°F.
(220°C.). Bake for 15 more minutes, or until the rolls are a deep golden
brown. Remove from the oven and cool on a rack for 10 minutes.

Serve the rolls warm.

Pats of butter are pressed into Risen Dinner Roll dough, stuffed
soft dough to create Butter- with butter, brushed with egg
Stuffed Dinner Rolls. wash, and ready for the oven.
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Invert the Dinner Rolls onto a Moist, tender rolls that absorbed
rack and allow to cool before the butter from the center during
serving. baking.
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Warm Butter-Stuffed Dinner Rolls ready for the table.


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country sourdough
makes one 13-inch round loaf or one 13-by-4-inch
loaf

This hearty loaf has a thick crust and a distinctive


tang. The sourdough starter, made with sweet
sorghum flour and golden flaxseed meal, adds its
unique flavor created through the slow fermentation
of wild yeasts. You also need to add a little
commercial yeast, because the wild starter isn’t
enough to fully leaven the bread. We usually use
instant yeast. It’s the easiest to work with, because it
doesn’t require any proofing to activate it. You simply
mix it into the dough and it does its thing.
We bake the dough in a seasoned cast-iron combo
cooker from Lodge. We learned about in Chad
Robertson’s, Tartine Bread. His description whet our
imaginations, so we bought one, tried baking country
loaves in it, and never looked back (see Sources,
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here). It’s a combination of a 3-quart deep skillet and


a 10¼-inch shallow skillet that fit together so that the
skillet can be used as a cover to create a Dutch oven.
It’s a handy piece of equipment that can be used for
much more than baking bread. Although we like to
use it for this bread, you can also bake the loaf in a
pain-de-mie pan.
This bread is our favorite for fondue night because its
deep flavor perfectly accents the floral, nutty
Gruyère. Note that this dough is more liquid than
most. It is important to let it rise to the top of the pan
before baking in order to get the best texture. Your
patience will be rewarded, because this is delicious
bread.
1 cup + 3 tablespoons / 300 grams Gluten-Free Sourdough Starter
(here)
1¼ cups / 280 grams water
1 tablespoon / 12.5 grams sugar
1¼ teaspoons / 7.5 grams fine sea salt
1 teaspoon / 3 grams instant yeast
6 large eggs
4⅔ cups / 600 grams Gluten-Free Flour Blend (What IiF Flour 3.0,
here, Batch-3 Flour, here, or Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend, here)

Special Equipment: Lodge 3-quart cast-iron combo cooker or a 13-by-4-


by-4-inch pain-de-mie or Pullman loaf pan
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Put the sourdough starter, water, sugar, salt, yeast, and eggs in a blender.
Turn the blender on low, gradually increase the speed to medium-high, and
blend for 30 seconds, or until the mixture is smooth.

Put the flour into the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle
attachment (or use a hand mixer). Turn the mixer on low and pour in the
sourdough mixture. Increase the speed to medium and beat until all the wet
ingredients are incorporated, then increase the speed to medium-high and
beat the dough for 30 seconds, or until it appears smooth and elastic.

Use a rubber spatula to scrape the dough into a clean bowl. Cover with
plastic wrap and let rise for 3 hours.

Grease a 3-quart cast-iron combo cooker or a 13-by-4-by-4-inch pain-de-


mie pan. Use a rubber spatula to stir the dough together, then pour it into the
3-quart deep skillet or the pain-de-mie pan. Cover with plastic wrap and let
the dough rise for 2 hours, or until it reaches to the top of the pan.

Meanwhile, 1 hour before baking, preheat the oven to 400°F. (200°C.).

Remove the plastic wrap from the pan. Spray the lid of the combo cooker or
loaf pan with nonstick cooking spray and put it in place.

Bake the bread for 45 minutes. Turn the heat down to 350°F. (180°C.),
without opening the oven door and bake for 30 minutes.

Turn the heat down to 300°F. (150°C.). Remove the lid and bake the bread
uncovered for 30 minutes. The internal temperature should be 210° to
212°F. (99° to 100°C.). Turn off the oven, open the door, and let the bread
cool in the oven for 30 minutes.

Remove the bread from the oven, turn it out on to a rack, and let cool
completely.

The bread can be wrapped in plastic wrap and kept at room temperature for
up to a week.
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Sorghum flour, flaxseed meal,


and water mixed and ready to Using a scale to feed a happy
ferment into Sourdough Starter Sourdough Starter.
(here)

Mixed Country Sourdough Country Sourdough after the


before the first rise. first rise, in the skillet ready to
rise again before baking.
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Country Sourdough risen almost Skillet of freshly baked Country


to the top of the skillet and ready Sourdough bread, fresh from the
to be baked. oven.
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Cooled and sliced Country Sourdough bread.


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microwave sourdough soft rolls


makes 16 rolls

Here’s another delicious use for our sourdough


starter. These rolls are a lighter, fluffier cousin of the
Country Sourdough (here). This creates large bubbles
in the dough that expand in the microwave as the
dough sets around them, giving the finished cake a
spongy appearance. We use a whipped cream
canister to aerate the dough as we extrude it into
paper cups. Each one cooks in 30 seconds, so we can
make all 16 in the time it would take to heat up a
conventional oven.
The sourdough give these rolls a fine crumb and a
gentle tang that adds a nice accent to any meal. And
their light, spongy texture makes them perfect for
soaking up gravy. The optional toasted milk solids
give them a nutty accent and a more rounded flavor.
2 cups / 480 grams Gluten-Free Sourdough Starter (here)
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1 cup / 225 grams water


2 large eggs
½ cup / 65 grams Gluten-Free Flour Blend (What IiF Flour 3.0, here,
Batch-3 Flour, here, or Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend, here)
½ cup / 36 grams powdered egg whites
2 tablespoons / 25 grams sugar
¾ teaspoon / 4.5 grams fine sea salt
4 tablespoons / 2 ounces / 56 grams unsalted butter, melted
¼ cup / 16 grams Toasted Milk Powder (here; optional), plus more for
dusting

Special Equipment: 1-quart whipped cream dispenser; 16 unwaxed 10-


ounce paper cups

Put the sourdough starter, water, and eggs in a blender. Turn the blender on
low, gradually increase the speed to medium-high, and blend until the
mixture is fluid. Add the flour, powdered egg whites, sugar, salt, melted
butter, and toasted milk powder, if using, and blend for 30 seconds, or until
the dry ingredients are fully incorporated and the mixture is smooth.

Strain the mixture through a fine-mesh sieve, transfer to 1-quart whipped


cream dispenser, and put the lid on. Charge the canister with two N2O
charges, shaking vigorously after adding each one to disperse the gas and
allow it to be absorbed by the batter. The batter should feel and sound fluid
in the canister.

Prepare 16 unwaxed 10-ounce paper cups for microwaving the rolls: Turn
the cups over and use a paring knife to make a ½-inch slit in the bottom and
three ½-inch slits around the sides of each cup. Turn the cups back over.

Shake the whipped cream canister and fill one cup one-third full. (The
batter will be thick enough that it won’t spill out through the cuts in the
cup.) Put the cup into the microwave and cook on high for 30 seconds. The
batter will rise and solidify into a soft mass resembling a sea sponge.
Immediately remove from the microwave and invert the cup onto a cutting
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board or countertop. Let the roll cool upside down while you cook the
remaining rolls.

Let the rolls cool until the cups are no longer hot to the touch. Run a small
paring knife around the inside of each cup, invert the cup, and gently shake
to remove the roll. Using a small strainer, dust toasted milk powder over the
rolls, and serve immediately. Alternatively, the rolls can be refrigerated in
the inverted cups overnight before being unmolded. The rolls will stay
moist and tender and keep their light, airy texture and shape. Pull them from
the refrigerator at least 30 minutes before serving so they come to room
temperature. Dust with toasted milk powder before serving.

Straining the blended microwave


sourdough batter before Finished Microwave Sourdough
transferring to a whipped-cream Soft Rolls, still in the cups after
canister, extruding, and “micro- “baking.”
baking.”
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buttermilk brioche
makes two 9-by-5-inch loaves

Brioche is one of our very favorite doughs. It has a


rich, buttery flavor and endless versatility. Our no-
knead version of the bread uses extra liquid and a
long, slow hydration and fermentation period to
develop texture and flavor. Here we’ve made it with
buttermilk—that little bit of tang balances the
richness of the butter. We also use this dough as a
base for the Stollen (here) and Kouign Amann (here).
While Brioche has a reputation for being finicky, this
version requires a little extra time but not a lot of
effort for perfect results.
7½ cups / 975 grams Gluten-Free Flour Blend (What IiF Flour 3.0,
here, Batch-3 Flour, here, or Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend, here)
1 tablespoon + ½ teaspoon / 21 grams fine sea salt
½ teaspoon / 1.5 grams instant yeast
½ cup / 100 grams sugar
8 large eggs, at room temperature
1 cup / 240 grams buttermilk, at room temperature
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½ cup / 113 grams water, at room temperature


32 tablespoons (4 sticks) / 1 pound / 450 grams unsalted butter, melted
and cooled
Milk or heavy cream for brushing the loaves

Put the flour, salt, yeast, and sugar in a large bowl and whisk to blend
thoroughly.

Whisk together the eggs, buttermilk, and water in a medium bowl until well
blended. Whisk in the butter. Pour the wet ingredients into the dry
ingredients and stir with a rubber spatula or wooden spoon until the liquid is
incorporated and there are no lumps; the mixture will resemble muffin
batter. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let rest at room temperature for
3 to 4 hours. The dough will rise very slightly.

Using a rubber spatula, gently loosen the dough from the bowl. Dampen
your hands with cool water. Slide one hand under one side of the dough,
fold that side of the dough into the center, and press down gently so it
adheres to itself. Give the bowl a quarter turn and repeat the folding
process. Do this two more times. After the fourth fold, flip over the dough
so the seams are on the bottom. (The dough will have a few air bubbles and
feel elastic.) Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let it rise at room
temperature for at least 8 hours, or as long as overnight. The dough will
have at least doubled and be light and crackly on the surface.

Line a baking sheet with plastic wrap. Repeat the folding procedure with
the dough, then put it on the baking sheet and cover with another sheet of
plastic wrap. Refrigerate the dough until it is firm, or for up to 3 days.

Grease two 9-by-5-inch loaf pans. Divide the dough in half. Place each half
in one of the loaf pans. Let the dough proof for 1½ hours.

While the dough proofs, position a rack in the middle of the oven and
preheat the oven to 375°F. (190°C.) if using a regular oven, or 350°F.
(175°C.) if using convection.
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Brush the loaves with milk. Bake for 1 hour, or until the loaves are a deep
golden brown and sound hollow when you firmly tap the bottom of the pan
with your finger; the internal temperature should be at least 208°F. (98°C.).
Cool for 10 minutes in the pans on a rack, then turn the loaves out onto the
rack and let cool completely.

Tightly wrapped in plastic wrap, the brioche will keep for up to a week at
room temperature.

Buttermilk Brioche dough rising Fully risen dough, ready to be


in a plastic container. turned out of the container.

Turn the dough out onto a sheet pan lined with plastic wrap, so it’s
easy to cover, flatten, and chill.
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kouign amann
makes 12 pastries

Kouign amann (queen a-mahn) is a butter cake from


Brittany. It is made with what is called a “laminated
dough.” Lamination is the technique of folding layers
of butter into the dough, so that the finished bread or
pastry has multiple flaky layers that rise high,
created by the steam that evaporates out of the butter
as the dough bakes. Picture the interior of a
croissant, and you’ll know exactly what we’re talking
about.
A kouign amann takes things one step further by
adding sugar to the butter between the layers so that
as it bakes, the sugar caramelizes all around the
outside, adding sweetness and crunch. By making
individual pastries instead of one big cake, we can
maximize the effect of those crusty, chewy bits of
caramel. These are pure indulgence.
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2 cups / 240 grams powdered sugar, sifted


½ batch, approximately 2 pounds 10 ounces / 1200 grams Buttermilk
Brioche dough (here), chilled
4 tablespoons / 2 ounces / 56 grams unsalted butter, melted
¼ cup / 50 grams granulated sugar
Softened butter and granulated sugar for the molds

Special Equipment: Twelve 8-ounce soufflé cups (or a jumbo muffin tin)

Lay two 22-inch-long pieces of plastic wrap on your countertop,


overlapping them to form a 14-by-22-inch rectangle. Dust the plastic wrap
with some of the powdered sugar and put the cold brioche dough in the
center. Liberally dust the top of the dough with powdered sugar and cover
with two pieces of overlapping plastic wrap. Roll the dough into a rough
10-by-18-inch rectangle. Remove the top layer of plastic wrap and dust the
surface of the dough with powdered sugar. Turn the dough so a long side is
toward you. Fold the left third of the dough over the middle third of the
dough. Dust the newly exposed surface with powdered sugar. Fold the right
third of the dough over the top to create a smaller rectangle of dough
resembling a folded letter. Dust the newly exposed surface with powdered
sugar. Flip the dough over and rotate it 90 degrees so the folds are now
positioned horizontally. Dust the top with powdered sugar so that all sides
have a light, even coating. Be sure to use half of the powdered sugar.

Cover the dough with the two pieces of plastic wrap and roll it into a 10-by-
18-inch rectangle again. Repeat the dusting and folding process again. Wrap
the dough in plastic wrap and refrigerate it for at least 30 minutes.

Butter and sugar twelve 8-ounce soufflé cups. (If you don’t have soufflé
cups, you can use a jumbo muffin tin.) Line two baking sheets with
parchment paper. (Or put the muffin tin on a lined baking sheet.)

Remove the dough from the refrigerator. Repeat the dusting and folding
process once again. Then roll the dough out into a 10-by-18-inch rectangle.

Cut the dough lengthwise in half, then cut each half into 6 equal pieces.
Brush the top of the dough with some of the melted butter. Carefully lift a
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piece of dough and slide it into a soufflé cup, buttered side up, pushing the
center down into the cup and letting the corners fold inward naturally.
Repeat with the remaining 11 pieces of dough. Brush the tops again with
melted butter.

Arrange six cups on each lined baking sheet. Cover with plastic wrap and
let the dough proof for 1½ hours, or until the pastries have risen and look
puffy.

While the dough proofs, position the racks in the upper and lower thirds of
the oven (or put one rack in the center if using a muffin tin) and preheat the
oven to 375°F. (190°C.) if using a regular oven, or 350°F. (175°C.) if using
convection.

Sprinkle the top of each pastry with 1 teaspoon / 4 grams of the granulated
sugar. Bake the kouign amann for 20 minutes. Rotate the pans top to bottom
and front to back and bake for 20 more minutes, or until the kouign amann
is caramel in color. Remove the pans from the oven and let cool for 15
minutes.

Remove the pastries from the soufflé cups and enjoy immediately, or let
them cool on a rack.
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Kouign Amann, gooey butter cakes with a caramelized sugar crust,


cooling on a wire rack.
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marcona almond marzipan--enriched


stollen
makes four 12-inch-long loaves

When Alex was growing up, his father worked for a


German investment firm, and every Christmas, he
would bring home a stollen as his Christmas bonus.
It was something that Alex looked forward to every
holiday season. Fast-forward a few decades, and
Christmas stollen is still a special treat. Now Alex
makes his own and it tastes even better than his
memories.
Classic stollen is a rich yeast bread studded with
citron and other dried fruits, often baked with a vein
of marzipan running through it. In a nod to Jamaican
fruit cake, we soak the dried fruits in dark rum to
give them more flavor. We make our own marzipan,
and as a final flourish, we brush each cooked loaf
with brown butter and coat it with powdered sugar.
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This both adds flavor and helps seal the outside of


the loaves, so they keep longer.
NOTE: After you make the brioche dough, put the dried fruit and rum in a
bowl and let soak while the dough rises.
1 cup / 112 grams dried cranberries
1 cup / 80 grams golden raisins
½ cup / 78 grams dried blueberries
½ cup / 113 grams dark rum
Buttermilk Brioche dough (here), taken through the first rise
1 cup / 140 grams Marcona almonds
28 ounces / 800 grams Marcona Almond Marzipan (here) or store-
bought marzipan
2 large eggs, at room temperature
1 teaspoon / 4 grams vanilla paste or pure vanilla extract
½ cup / 120 grams heavy cream for brushing the stollen
8 tablespoons / 4 ounces / 113 grams unsalted butter, sliced
1 cup / 200 grams granulated sugar
Powdered sugar for dusting

Put the cranberries, golden raisins, dried blueberries, and rum in a bowl. Stir
the dried fruit and cover the bowl. Let the fruit absorb the rum for at least 4
hours and preferably 24 hours.

After the brioche has risen, drain the dried fruits. (You can reserve the rum
for another fruit soaking.) Scatter the almonds and soaked fruits over the
dough and use a rubber spatula to fold the nuts and fruits into the dough.
Line a baking sheet with plastic wrap and scrape the dough onto the baking
sheet. Cover the dough with another sheet of plastic wrap and press the
dough into a rough rectangle. Refrigerate for at least 4 hours and up to 2
days.
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Meanwhile put the marzipan into the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the
paddle attachment (or use a hand mixer). Add the eggs and vanilla paste,
turn the mixer on low, and gradually increase the speed to medium-high,
mixing until a thick paste resembling peanut butter comes together. Turn the
marzipan out and wrap in plastic wrap. Refrigerate until you are ready to
make the stollen.

To assemble the stollen, line two baking sheets with parchment paper.
Remove the marzipan and dough from the refrigerator. Divide the marzipan
into 4 equal pieces. Roll each piece of marzipan between two pieces of
plastic wrap into a 4-by-12-inch rectangle.

Divide the dough into 4 equal pieces. One at a time, roll each piece between
two pieces of plastic wrap into an 8-by-12-inch rectangle. Put a piece of
marzipan on one side of the dough and roll the dough up into a tube,
enclosing the marzipan. Put the tube the seam side down on one of the
prepared baking sheets and repeat with the remaining dough and marzipan,
putting 2 loaves on each sheet. Cover with plastic wrap and let proof for 1½
hours until the dough rises and looks puffy.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. (175°C.). Brush the stollen with the heavy
cream. Bake for 55 minutes or until the stollen are golden brown and
slightly cracked looking; the internal temperature should register at least
208°F. (90°C.).

While the stollen is baking, put the butter into a medium saucepan and cook
over medium heat until it melts, then stir until the milk solids turn golden
brown, about 7 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and place it in a
warm spot to keep the brown butter liquid.

When the stollen is baked, transfer the breads to two racks set over two
baking sheets. Let cool for 15 minutes.

Brush each loaf with about 2 tablespoons of the brown butter and sprinkle
with ¼ cup of the granulated sugar. Let the loaves cool completely then dust
them with powdered sugar. Well-wrapped, the stollen can be stored at cool
room temperature for up to 1 month.
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Turn the dough out onto a sheet


Soaked fruits sprinkled on
pan lined with plastic wrap, so
brioche dough, ready to be
it’s easy to cover, flatten, and
folded in for Stollen.
chill.

Use a rubber spatula to fold the


Fully mixed Stollen dough,
soaked fruits into the brioche
ready to be chilled.
dough.

Chilled Stollen dough ready to Rolling Stollen, step one: ¼ of


be rolled into loaves. the Stollen dough rolled out and
covered with enriched marzipan.
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Step two: Roll the dough and Step three: The finished log,
marzipan into a log. tightly rolled and ready to proof.

Proof the Stollen logs, lightly Brush the proofed logs with
covered with plastic wrap, on a cream just before baking.
baking sheet lined with
parchment paper.
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Brush the baked logs with brown Dust the Stollen with a final
butter and sprinkle with layer of powdered sugar to
granulated sugar. finish.
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marcona almond marzipan


28 ounces / 800 grams marzipan

Marzipan is a sweet paste made out of ground


almonds and sugar or honey, occasionally with the
addition of egg whites. Homemade marzipan has a
flavor you just can’t get from a tube. We asked
ourselves if there was a way to make it even better.
The answer was sitting in our freezer—a bag of
Marcona almonds. Marconas are large Spanish
almonds, always sold without their skins. They are
softer than California almonds, with a sweeter flavor.
The food processor makes this a very easy recipe,
and after you taste it, you will want to use it in
everything.
1¼ pounds (4 cups) / 560 grams Marcona almonds
⅓ cup / 100 grams light corn syrup
½ cup / 100 grams granulated sugar
½ cup / 56 grams powdered sugar
½ teaspoon / 3 grams fine sea salt

Put the almonds, corn syrup, granulated sugar, powdered sugar, and salt into
a food processor and pulse 15 times to begin breaking the nuts down and
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grinding them into a meal. Use a rubber spatula to scrape down the sides of
the processor. Turn the processor back on the grind the mixture for 1
minute. Turn the food processor off. Squeeze the mixture in your hand: it
should be very fine-grained and come together like pie dough. Process for
another minute or so if necessary.

Transfer the mixture to a large bowl and knead it together for 3 to 5


minutes. It will form into a large ball.

Put the paste into a zip-top bag, push out all the air, seal the bag, and use a
rolling pin to roll the marzipan out flat. This final step will press the paste
together. The marzipan can be refrigerated for up to 2 months.

Marcona Almond Marzipan Roll out the sheets of enriched


beaten with eggs and vanilla to marzipan into 4-by-12-inch
become more flavorful and rectangles so they fit within the
pliable for Stollen (here). Stollen.
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variation: stollen doughnuts


Once the marzipan-stuffed dough has been formed into loaves, you can roll
them out into rectangles approximately 3/8 inch thick, and then follow the
procedure here–here to cut and fry the dough into doughnuts (see
photograph here). Stollen doughnuts are best eaten warm. They can be
heated in the microwave for 8 to 10 seconds or in a 350°F. (175°C.) oven
for 10 minutes.
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Marcona Almond Marzipan–Enriched Stollen (here), cooled, sliced, and


ready to serve.
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doughnuts
makes 2 dozen doughnuts

We often use brioche dough to make doughnuts. The


problem with many yeasted doughnuts is that they are
tender when warm but become leaden and dry as
they cool. To fix this, we swapped out half the butter
in our Buttermilk Brioche recipe for peanut oil. (If
anyone has a peanut allergy, use your favorite
neutral vegetable oil.) As with our cake recipes, our
theory was that since oil is liquid at room
temperature, the finished doughnuts would remain
moister. The result was pretty amazing doughnuts.
They fry up crisp on the outside with a soft, tender
interior. We’ve included a recipe for lemon buttermilk
glaze, but these are equally good rolled in powdered
sugar or dipped in Chocolate Glaze (here).
7½ cups / 975 grams Gluten-Free Flour Blend (What IiF Flour 3.0,
here, Batch-3 Flour, here, or Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend, here)
(1 tablespoon + ½ teaspoon / 21 grams fine sea salt
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½ teaspoon / 1.5 grams instant yeast


½ cup / 100 grams sugar
8 large eggs, at room temperature
1 cup / 225 grams water, at room temperature
1 cup / 240 grams buttermilk, at room temperature
16 tablespoons (2 sticks) / 8 ounces / 225 grams unsalted butter, melted
and cooled
1 cup / 225 grams peanut or vegetable oil
Rice bran oil or peanut oil for deep-frying

lemon-buttermilk glaze
2 cups / 240 grams powdered sugar
¼ cup / 60 grams buttermilk
4 teaspoons / 20 grams fresh lemon juice, preferably from a Meyer
lemon
⅛ teaspoon / 0.75 gram fine sea salt
2 lemons

Special Equipment: A 3-inch doughnut cutter (or a 3-inch round cutter and
a smaller cutter for the doughnut holes)

Put the flour, salt, yeast, and sugar in a large bowl and whisk to blend
thoroughly. Whisk together the eggs, water, and buttermilk in a medium
bowl until well blended. Whisk in the butter and oil. Pour the wet
ingredients into the dry ingredients and stir with a rubber spatula or wooden
spoon until the liquid is incorporated and there are no lumps; the mixture
will resemble muffin batter. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap, and let rest at
room temperature for 3 to 4 hours. The dough will rise slightly but not
double.

Using a rubber spatula, gently loosen the dough from the bowl. Dampen
your hands with cool water. Slide one hand under one side of the dough,
fold that side of the dough into the center, and press down gently so it
adheres to itself. Give the bowl a quarter turn and repeat the folding
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process. Do this two more times. After the fourth fold, flip over the dough
so the seams are on the bottom. Cover with plastic wrap and let rise at room
temperature for at least 8 hours, or as long as overnight. The dough will
have more than doubled and be light and crackly on the surface.

Repeat the folding procedure with the dough, then put on it a baking sheet,
press it out to fit the pan, and cover with a sheet of plastic wrap. Refrigerate
the dough until it is firm, or for up to 3 days.

Line two large baking sheets with parchment paper and lightly dust with
flour.

Remove the chilled dough from the refrigerator. Dust your countertop
lightly and evenly with flour. Turn the dough out onto the floured
countertop and dust it with flour. Use a rolling pin to roll the dough out to a
thickness of 3/8 inch, adding a little extra flour if it begins to stick. Use a 3-
inch doughnut cutter to cut the donuts (or use 3-inch round cutter to cut out
the doughnut and a smaller round cutter to cut a the holes) and put them on
the prepared baking sheets, leaving about 1 inch space between them;
separate the holes from the doughnuts so they can be fried on their own.
Cover the pans loosely with plastic wrap and let the doughnuts proof for 1
hour. Gently ball up the dough trimmings, put into a bowl, cover, and
refrigerate to firm up for at least 1 hour, then reroll to make more
doughnuts.

Fill a large pot with 2 inches of oil and heat over medium-high heat until it
reaches 350°F. (176°C.). Set a wire rack over a baking sheet and have a
slotted spoon or spider ready for turning the doughnuts.

Add 4 or 5 doughnuts to the hot oil and cook for 1 minute on the first side,
then use slotted spoon to flip the doughnuts over and cook for 1 minute on
the other side. Flip them one more time and cook for 1 more minute, or
until deep golden brown on both sides. Use the slotted spoon to transfer the
doughnuts to the rack to cool. Cook the remaining doughnuts in batches. To
cook the holes, put 12 into the oil at a time and cook for 45 seconds, then
turn them over and cook for 45 seconds more. Some of the holes may not
flip—use the slotted spoon to stir them in the oil so they cook evenly.
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Remove the holes from the oil and transfer to the rack. Let cool for at least
5 minutes.

To make the glaze, put the powdered sugar in a bowl and add the
buttermilk, lemon juice, and salt. Use a whisk to stir the mixture together
until it forms a smooth glaze. Whisk again until smooth right before using.

Line two baking sheets with parchment paper and butter the paper very
lightly. Place a wire rack over another baking sheet. Dip the doughnuts one
at a time into the bowl of glaze, turning them to be sure to coat them
thoroughly, and transfer to the prepared pans. Use a Microplane (rasp)
grater to grate some lemon zest over the doughnuts. Once all the doughnuts
are glazed, put the holes into the bowl with the glaze and grate some lemon
zest into the bowl. Use a spoon to stir the holes in the glaze until evenly
coated. Transfer the holes to the rack and grate more zest over the tops.
Allow the glaze to set before serving.

Doughnut dough after the first Chilled dough, ready to be rolled


rise. out.
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Proof doughnuts and holes on a


Proofed doughnuts, ready to be
sheet pan lined with parchment
fried.
paper.

Fried and glazed doughnuts, warm, sweet, tender, and ready to eat.
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A variation on Stollen (here): Fried and sugared Stollen Doughnuts


(here).
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CHAPTER 5

Pizza Dough
Grilled Garlic and Onion Flatbread
Focaccia de Recco
Water Crackers
Cheddar Cheese Coins with Sesame Seeds
Brown-Butter Crackers
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pizza dough
makes enough for seven 12-inch pizzas

This is our no-knead gluten-free pizza dough recipe.


We like to add a little bit of smoked masa puree to
give it extra elasticity and some smoky flavor, but if
you don’t have masa on hand it’s still a great dough
without it. We’re not going to tell you what to top it
with, though we will give you our basic pizza sauce
to try. Beyond that, the toppings and the style of
cooking are up to you. We have cooked this dough in
a home oven, on a grill, and in a wood-burning oven,
and the results have always been applauded.
7 cups / 900 grams Gluten-Free Flour Blend (What IiF Flour 3.0, here,
Batch-3 Flour, here, or Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend, here)
3 tablespoons / 18 grams fine sea salt
1 tablespoon / 12.5 grams sugar
½ teaspoon / 1.5 grams instant yeast
3 cups / 675 grams water
2 tablespoons / 28 grams olive oil
1 cup / 230 grams Masa Harina Puree (here; optional)
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White rice flour for dusting the peel


Sauce and toppings of your choice (our Uncooked Tomato Sauce recipe
follows)
Olive oil for drizzling

Combine the flour, salt, sugar, and yeast in a large bowl and whisk together
to thoroughly blend the yeast into the flour. Pour in the water and olive oil,
add the masa puree if using, and stir with a rubber spatula until the water is
absorbed and there are no lumps of flour or masa. Cover the bowl with
plastic wrap and leave it at room temperature for 6 hours.

Using a rubber spatula, gently loosen the dough from the bowl and stir it
together. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let it rise at room
temperature for 18 hours. The dough should rise to at least twice its size.

Use a rubber spatula to fold the dough over upon itself. Cover the dough
and refrigerate for at least 4 hours and up to 2 days.

Preheat the oven with pizza stone to 500°F. (260°C.). Remove the dough
from the refrigerator and turn out onto a clean countertop. Divide into seven
9.2 ounces/260-gram portions. Lay two overlapping pieces of plastic wrap
on the counter and put a ball of dough in the center. Cover with another two
sheets of plastic wrap. Use a rolling pin to roll the dough into a 12-inch
circle. If you have a pizza pan, put the dough on the pan and use the bottom
of a 1-cup dry measuring cup to shape the edges of the dough, then lay the
shaped dough on the counter. Repeat with the other 6 balls of dough;
stacking the rounds between sheets of plastic wrap if necessary to save
space. If baking that day, let the dough proof on the counter, covered with
plastic wrap, for 3 hours.

Lightly and evenly dust a pizza peel or the back of a baking sheet with
white rice flour. Flip one piece of the dough over, still in the plastic wrap,
and remove the bottom layer of plastic. Use the plastic wrap to move the
dough onto the dusted peel. Gently remove the plastic wrap. Top the pizza
with a light layer of sauce and toppings of your choice. Drizzle olive oil
over the top.
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Slide the pizza onto the hot baking stone and bake for 5 to 7 minutes, until
the cheese is melted and the bottom and edges are golden brown. (Time and
temperature will vary if baking in a wood fired pizza oven or on a grill.) Cut
into slices and serve hot. Unbaked rounds of dough can be frozen for up to
1 month. Lay on baking sheets and put in your freezer; thaw at room
temperature. If your freezer isn’t large enough, wrap individual balls of
dough in plastic wrap and freeze. Remove and let thaw at room temperature
for 1 hour or thaw overnight in the refrigerator. Then proceed with shaping
and proofing the dough.

uncooked tomato sauce for pizza


makes 3½ cups sauce

This is our favorite pizza sauce. It cooks on the pizza


and its fresh flavor lets the dough and toppings come
together as a harmonious whole. Some people prefer
a cooked sauce, and that’s easy enough to make or
buy, but our favorite wood-burning pizza joints use
uncooked sauce, and now you can too.
One 28-ounce / 794-gram can San Marzano whole peeled tomatoes
1 teaspoon / 6 grams fine sea salt

Open the can of tomatoes and pour everything into a bowl. Add the salt and
crush the tomatoes with your hands, mixing in the salt, until there are only
small pieces of tomato in the sauce. Use immediately, or cover and
refrigerate for up to a week.

The dough will rise to about Pizza Dough, fully risen and
twice its original volume. ready to chill.
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Chilled Pizza Dough, ready to Shape Pizza Dough into circles


portion. for a final rising before baking.

Remember to dust the peel with rice flour before baking.


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Use scissors to cleanly cut the finished pizza.


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grilled garlic and onion flatbread


makes 8 flatbreads

The flavors of this easy flatbread marry well with a


variety of cuisines. The garlic and onion are pureed
in the blender, turning them into a liquid that is easily
dispersed throughout the dough. We include a
combination of cumin, soy sauce, and Bragg Liquid
Amino (a seasoning liquid fermented from non-GMO
soybeans and water) to round out the flavor and add
a hint of umami. The little bit of yeast in the recipe
adds more flavor than leavening, as the dough slowly
ferments during its resting period. The majority of
what happens on the grill is steam leavening, the
liquid inside the dough expanding to make the
flatbreads light and puffy, though still sturdy enough
to stand up to a grilled sausage—or grilled kebabs,
chops, or fish. We like these in the summertime, when
we’re cooking outdoors. We grill the proteins, then
the vegetables, and finally the breads. We do grilled
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chicken with guacamole and pico de gallo. Or grilled


lamb with marinated cucumbers, yogurt, and hot
sauce. Sometimes we like sliced flank steak with
grilled corn, the kernels sliced off the cob and tossed
with diced ripe tomatoes and fresh basil. Grilled
shrimp and summer squash tossed with fresh pesto
also work well, or even grilled marinated portabellos
with ginger coleslaw.
1 garlic clove
1 medium onion, sliced
1½ teaspoons / 9 grams herb salt or fine sea salt
½ teaspoon / 3 grams soy sauce
½ teaspoon / 3 grams Bragg Liquid Aminos (optional)
½ teaspoon / 1 gram ground cumin
3⅓ cups / 430 grams Gluten-Free Flour Blend (What IiF Flour 3.0,
here, Batch-3 Flour, here, or Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend, here)
½ teaspoon / 1.5 grams instant yeast

Put the garlic, onion, salt, soy sauce, liquid aminos, if using, and cumin in a
blender and puree until smooth.

Add enough water, using the measurement on the side of the blender, to
make 16 ounces of liquid.

Put the flour and yeast in a medium bowl and whisk to blend. Pour the
liquid into the flour and mix with a rubber spatula until a dough comes
together. Turn the dough out onto a clean countertop and knead it a few
times until smooth.

Put the dough in a clean bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and let sit at room
temperature for at least 1 hour, and up to 6 hours. You want to make sure
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that the flour is fully hydrated. (You can also wrap the dough in plastic wrap
and refrigerate it for up to 24 hours. Let it come to room temperature for at
least 30 minutes before rolling out.)

Preheat a grill to medium-high.

Divide the dough into 8 equal pieces about 3 ounces / 85 grams each. On a
clean countertop, roll each one out into a round approximately ¼ inch thick.
The rounds can be stacked on a plate as you make them, with parchment or
plastic wrap between them.

Lay the flatbreads on the grill and cook for 2 minutes. Give them a quarter
turn and cook for 1 to 2 minutes more, until they rise and there are nice grill
marks on the bottoms. Flip the flatbreads and cook for 2 minutes. Give
them all a quarter turn and cook for another 1 to 2 minutes, until they are
well marked on the second side and cooked through. Transfer to a basket or
large bowl lined with a cloth napkin and serve immediately.

Kneaded Garlic and Onion Flatbread dough, ready for steam leavening
on the grill.
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Grilled Garlic and Onion Flatbread is great for cradling grilled lamb,
marinated cucumbers, and a little yogurt and hot sauce.
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focaccia de recco
serves 8 to 12 as a starter or side dish

This stuffed cheese bread originated in Recco, a little


town in Liguria, Italy. It is fun to serve for a crowd.
For our nontraditional version, we use a combination
of sharp cheddar cheese and creamy Fontina. As the
cheese melts inside the dough, it creates steam that
makes the bread puff dramatically in the oven as it
turns a deep golden brown. It collapses as it cools,
the scent of warm cheese streaming through the
kitchen, and then you cut it into bite-sized pieces.
The slightly salty cheese squeaks between your teeth,
having morphed into something chewier and more
intense than it was before cooking. The bread is thin
and almost cracker-like, providing a contrasting
crunch—which brings to mind cheese and crackers,
presented in a whole new way.
1⅓ cups / 200 grams Gluten-Free Flour Blend (What IiF Flour 3.0,
here, Batch-3 Flour, here, or Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend, here)
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¼ teaspoon / 1.5 grams fine sea salt


¼ teaspoon / 1.5 grams instant yeast
3 tablespoons / 42 grams olive oil, plus additional for brushing the
breads
½ cup / 115 grams warm water
1½ cups / 5¼ ounces / 150 grams grated sharp cheddar cheese
1½ cups / 5¼ ounces / 150 grams grated Fontina cheese
Coarse sea salt
Freshly ground black pepper

Mix the flour, salt, and yeast together in a large bowl. Stir in the olive oil
and use your fingertips to mix it evenly into the flour. The flour will take on
the appearance of coarse sand. Stir in the warm water and knead the mass
into a soft, sticky dough.

Dust some flour onto your work surface turn the dough out, and knead for 5
minutes, or until it is smooth and silky. Invert a clean bowl over the top of
the dough and let it rest for 15 minutes.

Uncover the dough and knead it for another 5 minutes. Lightly flour the
inside of the bowl and put the dough inside. Cover the bowl with plastic
wrap and let the dough rise in a warm spot for 3 hours, or until it roughly
doubles in volume.

Turn the dough out, flatten, and fold it from the top down to the middle,
then rotate a quarter turn. Do this fold 3 more times, then put the dough
back in the bowl, seam side down, cover, and let it rise for another 3 hours.

Preheat the oven to 500°F. (260°C.). Line a 13-by-18-inch baking sheet


with a silicone mat or parchment paper.

Line the counter top with two 20-inch-long sheets of overlapping plastic
wrap. Divide the dough into 2 equal pieces and roll each one into a ball. Put
one ball on the plastic wrap and cover it with two more overlapping sheets.
Roll the dough out into a thin sheet about the size of the baking sheet.
Remove the top layer of plastic and invert the dough into the prepared
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baking pan; remove the remaining plastic wrap. Cover the dough with the
cheese, leaving a ½-inch border of dough uncovered.

Roll the second ball of dough out into an equal-sized rectangle and lay it
over the cheese-covered dough. Fold the edges of the bottom dough up over
the top dough, pinching the edges together all around. Brush the top with
olive oil, sprinkle with coarse salt, and grind black pepper over the top.

Bake the bread for 15 minutes, or until the dough is bubbly, golden, and
crispy. Remove from the oven and allow the bread to rest for 5 minutes.

Slide the bread onto a cutting board and cut it lengthwise in half, then cut
each half into 6 slices. Serve warm.

Roll out the bottom layer of Cover the bottom layer of the
Focaccia de Recco dough. dough with cheese.

Pinch the layers together by Piping hot Focaccia de Recco


folding the bottom layer over the straight from the oven, golden
top, then season with olive oil, brown and crispy on top.
salt, and pepper.
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Crunchy, cheesy Focaccia de Recco (here), ready to serve.


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water crackers
makes about 2 dozen crackers

These crackers are light and crisp, with a faintly


fruity flavor from the olive oil. The baking powder
gives the dough a bit of extra lift so the crackers have
small air bubbles throughout. The dough comes
together easily and can be rolled out very thin. We
like to keep these plain for versatility, but you could
sprinkle them with sesame or poppy seeds if you
prefer. They are perfect alongside the Baked Brie
(here) or with a cheese platter.
1¾ cups / 230 grams Gluten-Free Flour Blend (What IiF Flour 3.0,
here, Batch-3 Flour, here, or Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend, here)
½ teaspoon / 3 grams baking powder
½ teaspoon / 3 grams fine sea salt
½ cup + 2 tablespoons / 150 grams water
2 tablespoons / 28 grams extra virgin olive oil

Position the racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven and preheat the
oven to 400°F. (200°C.). Line two 13-by-18-inch baking sheets with
parchment paper.
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Put the flour, baking powder, and salt in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted
with the paddle attachment (or use a hand mixer) and mix on low to blend.
Increase the speed to medium and pour in the water. The flour will form
little balls and the mixture will look like a rough streusel. Pour in the olive
oil and increase the speed to medium-high. The dough will come together
into a rough mass.

Turn the dough out onto a clean countertop and knead until smooth, about 5
minutes.

Divide the dough into 2 pieces. Lay two 24-inch-long pieces of plastic wrap
on the countertop, overlapping them slightly. Put one piece of dough in the
center of the plastic wrap and cover it with two more overlapping pieces of
plastic. Use a rolling pin to roll the dough into a rough rectangle about 12
by 16 inches and ⅛ inch thick. Remove the top layer of plastic wrap and use
a 2-inch round cutter to cut out crackers. Use a fork or dough docker to
poke holes across the surface of the dough. This will prevent the crackers
from rising too much. Use an offset spatula to transfer the crackers to one of
the prepared baking sheets, leaving at least 2 inches of space between them.
Combine the scraps of dough with the second dough ball and roll out as you
did the first one. Cut out crackers and arrange on the second baking sheet.
(The scraps can be pressed together, rolled out, and baked separately to use
for cracker crumbs.)

Bake the crackers for 6 minutes, then rotate the pans, top to bottom and
front to back, and bake for 6 more minutes. The crackers will puff slightly
and should be light brown and dry. If they are still moist, bake them for an
additional 3 minutes or so, until dry. Remove the crackers from the baking
pan and transfer to a rack to cool.

The crackers can be kept in an airtight container at room temperature for up


to a week.
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Light, crisp Water Crackers.


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cheddar cheese coins with sesame


seeds
makes about 2½ dozen crackers

We love these flaky little crackers. They taste like the


essence of cheddar cheese and are so much better
than those little fish crackers the kids eat. We added
some sesame seeds for a background nuttiness and
crunch. Add a pinch of cayenne or jalapeño powder
if your taste runs that way, but we like these just as
they are, super-cheesy—and Amaya, our daughter
approved them too.
1⅓ cups / 170 grams Gluten-Free Flour Blend (What IiF Flour 3.0,
here, Batch-3 Flour, here, or Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend, here), plus
more for dusting
4 ounces / 113 grams extra sharp cheddar cheese, shredded
1 teaspoon / 6 grams fine sea salt
8 tablespoons / 4 ounces / 113 grams cold unsalted butter, diced
1 large egg yolk
2 tablespoons / 28 grams cold water
¼ cup / 36 grams sesame seeds
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Put the flour, cheddar cheese, and salt in a food processor and pulse 3 or 4
times to blend. Add the butter and pulse 3 or 4 times, or until the mixture
resembles coarse meal. Add the egg yolk and water and pulse 2 or 3 times.
Add the sesame seeds and pulse 1 or 2 more times. The dough should
resemble small pebbles and hold together when you squeeze a bit in your
hand.

Turn the dough out onto a floured countertop in a pile. Sprinkle the top
lightly with flour. Starting at one end, use the heel of your hand to smear a
small amount of the dough at a time against the counter. Do this quickly,
being sure not to work any sections of dough more than once. (This
technique, known as fraisage, forms flaky layers of fat and flour.) Once all
of the dough has been layered, pull it together and knead it 1 or 2 times,
then form it into a rough log.

Put the dough on a large piece of plastic wrap and use it to roll the log to a
length of about 15 inches (or make two 7½-inch logs it that seems more
manageable). Wrap in the plastic wrap and chill for at least 3 hours, or as
long as overnight.

Position the racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven and preheat the
oven to 375°F. (190°C.). Line two baking sheets with parchment paper.

Unwrap the log of dough and slice into ½-inch-thick rounds. Arrange them
on the prepared pans, about 1 inch apart.

Bake for 15 to 18 minutes, until the crackers are set. Let them cool for 5
minutes on the pans then transfer to wire racks to cool completely.

The cheese coins will keep in an airtight container at room temperature for
up to a week.
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brown-butter crackers
makes about 3 dozen crackers

Modeled after the classic Ritz cracker, these rich,


buttery crackers are slightly sweet with a haunting
nuttiness from the brown butter. The flavor of the
brown butter is amplified by the toasted milk solids.
The caramelized milk solids add richness to the
crackers through flavor, not fat.
16 tablespoons (2 sticks) / 8 ounces / 225 grams unsalted butter
2¼ cups / 295 grams Gluten-Free Flour Blend (What IiF Flour 3.0,
here, Batch-3 Flour, here, or Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend, here)
1 tablespoon / 12.5 grams sugar
1 teaspoon / 6 grams fine sea salt
1 teaspoon / 5 grams baking powder
3 tablespoons / 15 grams sifted Toasted Milk Powder (here)
1 large egg
½ cup / 120 grams buttermilk
Maldon salt for sprinkling the crackers

Position the racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven and preheat the
oven to 375°F. (190°C.). Line two large baking sheets with parchment
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paper.

Put 6 ounces of the butter in a medium saucepan and melt over medium
heat, whisking constantly as it sizzles and pops. When the butter stops
sputtering, continue to whisk, scraping the bottom of the pan so the milk
solids do not stick and scorch, until the milk solids turn light brown and the
butter is fragrant and nutty. Remove from the heat and let the butter cool to
room temperature.

Put the flour, sugar, salt, baking powder, and toasted milk solids in the bowl
of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or use a hand mixer) and
mix on low to blend. With the mixer on low slowly drizzle in the brown
butter, with the brown butter solids. The dough will become crumbly.

Whisk the egg with the milk and pour into the mixer, increase the speed to
medium-high, and mix until the dough comes together into a ball. Remove
the dough from the mixer and knead it for a minute or so on your
countertop, just to bring everything together in a smooth mass.

Divide the dough into 2 pieces. Lay out two 24-inch-long pieces of plastic
wrap on the countertop, overlapping them slightly. Put one piece of dough
in the center of the plastic wrap and cover with two more overlapping
pieces of plastic. Use a rolling pin to roll the dough to a thickness of about
⅛ inch. Remove the top layer of plastic wrap and use a 2-inch round cutter
to cut out crackers. Use a fork or dough docker to poke holes across the
surface of the dough; this will prevent the crackers from rising too much.
Use an offset spatula to transfer the crackers to one of the prepared baking
sheets, leaving at least 2 inches of space between them. Combine the scraps
of dough with the second dough ball and roll out as you did the first one.
Cut out crackers and arrange on the second baking sheet. (The scraps can be
pressed together, rolled out, and baked separately to use for cracker
crumbs.)

Put the pans of crackers in the oven and bake for 8 minutes. Rotate the pans
top to bottom and front to back and bake for 4 minutes longer.

Meanwhile, melt the remaining 2 ounces butter in a small saucepan over


medium heat, whisking constantly as it sizzles and pops, and cook to brown
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butter as above. Remove from the heat, and let the butter cool to room
temperature.

Remove the crackers from the oven, brush them with the brown butter, and
sprinkle lightly with sea salt. Put them back in the oven and bake them for 4
more minutes, or until just set and golden brown around the edges. Remove
the pans from the oven and let the crackers cool completely on the pans.

Store the crackers in a zip-top bag or airtight container for up to a week.

Brown-Butter Crackers, docked, Baked, lightly salted, flaky


laid out on a sheet pan, and Brown-Butter Crackers cooling
ready to be baked. on a sheet pan.
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CHAPTER 6

Egg Noodles
Seamless Ravioli with Pepperoni Bolognese
Potato Gnocchi
Kimchi Cavatelli with Bulgogi Sauce
Masa Malloredus
Agnolotti
Asian Dumplings
Manicotti with Scallion Crepes
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egg noodles
serves 4 as a side dish

These egg noodles bring homemade pasta back to the


gluten-free table. The dough comes together in a
matter of minutes and the noodles boil up quickly.
They have a tender, elastic texture and a light eggy
flavor. You could use the dough to make long noodles
like fettuccine and serve them with the Pepperoni
Bolognese (here), or shorter wide noodles to serve
buttered alongside braised beef or Stroganoff. Or
make linguine and toss it with fresh vegetables and
tomato sauce. The possibilities are endless.
1¾ cups / 230 grams Gluten-Free Flour Blend (What IiF Flour 3.0,
here, Batch-3 Flour, here, or Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend, here)
2 large eggs
2 tablespoons / 32.5 grams whole milk

Put the flour in a large bowl and make a well in the center of it. Whisk the
eggs and milk in a small bowl and pour into the center of the flour. Use
your fingers or a fork to mix the liquid into the flour and bring the dough
together.
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Turn the dough out onto the counter and knead, without adding any
additional flour, until it becomes smooth and silky, about 5 minutes. Wrap
in plastic wrap and let it rest at room temperature for at least 30 minutes
before rolling it out.

Roll out the dough and cut into noodles following the directions for your
pasta machine. Or roll the dough out by hand as thin as you can and cut into
noodles.

Freshly rolled fettuccine noodles.


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A plateful of fettuccine Egg Noodles with Pepperoni Bolognese.


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seamless ravioli with pepperoni


bolognese
serves 4

This is an incredibly simple technique that makes


extraordinary “seamless” ravioli (sometimes called
ravioli gnudi). We make a seasoned cheese filling and
drop small scoops of it into a bowl of flour. The
moisture in the cheese attracts the flour, which coats
the surface and then hydrates. Since this outer layer
forms naturally around the cheese filling, there are
no seams to burst when you cook the ravioli. When
you drop the flour-coated balls into gently boiling
water, the flour gelatinizes, forming a skin around the
filling.
The rich floral notes of the lemon zest in the ravioli
help highlight the sweet, fruity nature of the tomatoes
in the Pepperoni Bolognese and balance the rich
flavors of the pepperoni and cheeses. The sauce
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recipe makes a double batch, so you can freeze half


for a rainy day.
seamless ravioli (makes about 50)
2 cups / 500 grams whole-milk ricotta
1 large egg
1 ounce / 30 grams Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, grated
¼ teaspoon / 1.5 grams fine sea salt
¼ teaspoon / 0.55 gram freshly ground black pepper
Grated zest of 1 lemon, preferably a Meyer lemon
4 cups / 520 grams Gluten-Free Flour Blend (What IiF Flour 3.0, here,
Batch-3 Flour, here, or Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend, here)

pepperoni bolognese
1¼ pounds / 575 grams pepperoni, casing removed
2 large onions, sliced
¼ cup / 56 grams olive oil
2 cups / 450 grams full-bodied red wine
Two 28-ounce / 794-gram cans whole peeled San Marzano tomatoes
Freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano for serving

To make the ravioli, put the ricotta, egg, cheese, salt, pepper and lemon zest
into a medium bowl and use a rubber spatula to stir the ingredients together.
Put half of the flour on a baking sheet, in a large baking dish, on a tray,
forming a thick bed. Put the remaining flour into a medium bowl. Use a
teaspoon to form a ball of the ricotta mixture, drop into the bowl of flour,
and gently cover the ball with flour, then use your hand to scoop up the ball
and put it on the bed of flour. Continue to scoop and cover all of the ricotta
in flour, then dust the tops and fill in the spaces between the balls with the
remaining flour from the bowl. Invert a second baking sheet (or dish or
tray) over the ricotta balls and refrigerate overnight.
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The following morning, remove the sheet from the refrigerator and flip over
the ricotta balls. They will have absorbed the flour and be firm to the touch.
Cover and refrigerate until ready to use, or for up to 3 days. Flip the ravioli
daily so they to absorb flour evenly around their circumference.

To make the sauce, put the pepperoni and onions in a food processor and
pulse the machine 4 or 5 times, then use a rubber spatula to scrape the sides
of the bowl. Process for 15 seconds more, or until the pepperoni and onions
are roughly minced.

Set a 4-quart pot over medium-high heat. When the pot is hot, add the olive
oil, then add the pepperoni and onion mixture and stir to coat with oil. Turn
the heat down to medium, cover the pot, leaving the lid slightly askew to let
out a small trickle of steam, and simmer the pepperoni mixture for 30
minutes, stirring occasionally to make sure it does not stick. It will darken
in color and fat will rise to the surface.

Pour the wine into the pot, stir, and mostly cover the pot. Cook the wine
down until reduced by half, about 20 minutes.

Open the cans of tomatoes and pour them into a large bowl. Use your hands
to crush the tomatoes into medium pieces. Remove the lid from the pot and
stir in the tomatoes, then turn the heat down to low, mostly cover the pot,
and cook the sauce for 1 hour, or until it has thickened and darkened in
color. It will be rich and spicy, with a slight tang from the wine and
pepperoni. Remove from the heat and let cool for 30 minutes.

Put the sauce into a large bowl set over an ice bath to cool completely. You
only need half the sauce for the ravioli, so divide it between two containers.
The sauce can be stored an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to a
week or frozen for 2 months.

When ready to serve, transfer the ravioli to a clean tray. Bring a large pot of
water to a boil and salt the water generously. Reheat the sauce in a medium
pot.

Add the ravioli to the boiling water and cook for 3 minutes.
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Transfer the ravioli to the pot of sauce and cook for another minute or so, so
they cook through and absorb some of the sauce. Serve immediately, with
grated Parmigiano-Reggiano.

NOTE: “Boiling salted water” is such an abstract term, but it’s hard to
specify the exact amount of salt for every recipe because we all use different
pots. Instead, we’ll give you a ratio: For cooking pasta, we use 2 percent
salt by weight for the boiling water. So for every liter of water, that’s 20
grams of salt, or in U.S. terms, for every quart of water, 1 tablespoon of fine
sea salt.

Scoop balls of Seamless Ravioli


The filling will absorb the flour
filling (here) one at a time into a
and form a seamless outer shell
bowl of flour and transfer to a
of hydrated flour.
tray of flour to be buried.

After a day in the fridge, turn the Finished Seamless Ravioli, with
Seamless Ravioli in their bed of a pasta skin encasing the filling,
flour to ensure an even coating. ready to cook.
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Mince pepperoni and onions for


Cook and cut through a few
Bolognese sauce in a food
Seamless Ravioli to test the skin.
processor.
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Seamless Ravioli, cooked and served in a pool of Pepperoni Bolognese.


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potato gnocchi
serves 4 as a main course

Alex learned to make gnocchi at the restaurant Clio


in Boston. He made them almost every day for
months, and his were some of the best. Good gnocchi
are light and tender, like little pillows. They have a
rich potato flavor and are equally at home swimming
in meat sauce or drenched in melted butter. There’s a
lot of talk about tough, rubbery dumplings as a result
of overworking the potatoes, but as long as you move
quickly and have a light touch, your gnocchi should
be perfect. The fact that there’s no gluten in the flour
blend only helps the cause.
2½ pounds / 1.15 kilograms russet potatoes, peeled
1½ teaspoons / 9 grams fine sea salt
2 large egg yolks
1¼ cups / 160 grams Gluten-Free Flour Blend (What IiF Flour 3.0,
here, Batch-3 Flour, here, or Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend, here)
2 ounces / 60 grams Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, grated
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Put the potatoes in a heatproof bowl that fits inside a pressure cooker.
Season the potatoes with the salt. Put 1 inch of water in the bottom of the
pressure cooker and put the bowl inside. Cook the potatoes on high pressure
for 20 minutes. Let the pressure release naturally.

Remove the potatoes from the pressure cooker and press them through a
food mill or potato ricer into a bowl. Use a bench scraper to chop the egg
yolks into the warm potatoes, moving quickly so the yolks don’t cook
before they are incorporated. Sprinkle the flour over the potatoes and use
the bench scraper to fold it in. Sprinkle the cheese over the potato mixture
and fold it. Knead the dough just until smooth.

Turn the dough out and cut into 4 pieces of approximately equal size. Roll
each piece into cylinder approximately ½ inch thick. Cut the cylinders into
1-inch pieces. Roll the pieces of dough on a gnocchi board if you have one,
or use a fork to give them the characteristic ridges. Lay out the gnocchi on a
parchment-paper-lined baking sheet and refrigerate until cold, at least 30
minutes.

Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add the gnocchi and cook for 3 to 4
minutes. Cut one open to be sure they are cooked through: it should be fully
hydrated and a uniform color throughout. Undercooked gnocchi have a
slightly darker, dense center.

Transfer the gnocchi to a pot of sauce and cook for an additional 2 to 3


minutes, then serve.
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Shaped Potato Gnocchi, ready to be cooked.


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kimchi cavatelli with bulgogi sauce


serves 6 as a main course

Korean food is one of our favorite cuisines. We love


its big, bold flavors, accented with sweetness and
spice. Bulgogi is a classic dish made with grilled
marinated beef, and we’ve taken those traditional
flavors and turned them into a braised beef sauce.
The kick comes from the cavatelli, which is infused
with spicy kimchi. It’s a sensational combination and
one we especially enjoy as the weather turns cold.
bulgogi sauce
4½ cups / 1 kilo Asian pear or apple cider
2 cups / 470 grams kimchi
2 large onions, sliced
½ cup + 1 tablespoon + 1 teaspoon / 150 grams soy sauce
3 ounces / 85 grams fresh ginger, peeled and sliced
4 teaspoons / 10 grams smoked paprika
One 5-pound / 2250 gram boneless first-cut chuck shoulder roast
Fine sea salt
½ cup / 113 grams peanut or vegetable oil
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2 large onions
5 medium carrots, peeled
4 large Asian or ripe Bosc pears, peeled and cored
6 scallions, white and green parts
6 garlic cloves

kimchi cavatelli
1½ cups / 397.5 grams kimchi
1 cup / 225 grams whole-milk ricotta cheese
1 large egg
3½ cups / 455 grams Gluten-Free Flour Blend (What IiF Flour 3.0,
here, Batch-3 Flour, here, or Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend, here), or as
needed

6 scallions, white and green parts, finely sliced, for garnish

Preheat the oven to 250°F. (120°C.).

To make the braising liquid, put the cider, kimchi, sliced onions, soy sauce,
ginger, and smoked paprika into a blender. Turn the blender on low,
gradually increase the speed to high, and puree the mixture for 30 seconds,
or until smooth. Strain the marinade through a fine-mesh strainer into a
large bowl.

Put the chuck roast on a cutting board. Use a sharp knife to cut a crosshatch
pattern, making the cut ½ inch deep ½ inch apart, over the entire surface of
the meat. Sprinkle salt generously all over the shoulder.

Heat a heavy-bottomed skillet over medium-high heat. Add the peanut oil.
When the oil shimmers, carefully put the beef shoulder into the pan and
brown the shoulder for 3 minutes on the first side, about 3 minutes. Use a
meat fork and a large kitchen spoon to lift the meat and flip it over. Brown
the second side of the meat, about 3 minutes. Brown the meat on all sides,
using the fork and spoon to help balance the shoulder in the pan. Then sear
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the top and bottom of the shoulder again if they are not deeply browned and
caramelized. Transfer the shoulder to the bowl with the braising liquid.

Put the onions, carrots, pears, scallions, and garlic into a food processor and
pulse 10 times to roughly mince the vegetables.

Put the vegetables, beef shoulder, and braising liquid into a large (12-quart)
ovenproof pot set over medium heat. When the liquid comes to a simmer,
cover the pot, put it in the oven, and cook the beef for 6 hours. The meat
should be almost covered with liquid but browned on top, look as if it’s
starting to fall apart, and be fork-tender. Let the meat cool, uncovered in the
sauce for 30 minutes.

Transfer the meat to a cutting board. Pour the sauce into a large bowl. Use a
fork and spoon to shred the meat, discarding the chunks of fat and
connective tissue, and put it back into the sauce. Cool the bulgogi sauce
over an ice bath. Once it’s completely cold, cover and refrigerate overnight.

To make the pasta, put the kimchi, ricotta, and egg in a blender. Turn the
blender on low, gradually increase the speed to medium-high, and puree
until smooth, about 30 seconds. Strain the mixture through a fine-mesh
strainer.

Put the flour in the bowl of a food processor. Add the kimchi mixture and
process until a soft, firm dough forms. Turn the dough out onto a lightly
floured countertop and knead until smooth and silky. Depending upon the
consistency of the kimchi and the ricotta, you may need to add a few more
tablespoons of flour to the dough. Shape the dough into a ball, wrap in
plastic wrap, and let rest for at least 30 minutes.

Flour a large baking sheet. Using a rolling pin, roll the dough out on a clean
work surface to a thickness of about ¼ inch. Cut into ½-inch-wide strips.

Work with one strip at a time, keeping the remaining strips covered with a
damp towel so they don’t dry out. Cut each strip into ½-inch squares, using
a butter knife or bench scraper. Turn each square diagonally and drag the
butter knife or bench scraper at a 45-degree angle across the square from
left to right: the pasta will curl along the blade of your implement, leaving
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you with a beautifully shaped cavatelli. It may take a few tries to master the
technique, but once you develop a rhythm, things move quickly.
Alternatively, for ridged cavatelli, roll each square of dough over the tines
of a fork, folding and rolling the dough over itself and creating ridged pasta,
or use a gnocchi board. Lay the finished pasta out on the floured baking
sheet. Cook the cavatelli immediately or freeze. Freeze on the baking sheet
until frozen hard, then transfer to a zip-top bag and freeze for up to 1
month; cook directly from their frozen state.

To serve, put the bulgogi sauce in a large pot and bring to a simmer over
low heat, stirring occasionally. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water
to a boil over medium-high heat.

Cook the cavatelli in the boiling water for 5 minutes, or until just cooked
through but with a little bit of chew to them. Use a skimmer to transfer the
cavatelli to the sauce and cook for 2 to 3 minutes longer. Serve in warm
bowls, topped with the thinly sliced scallions.

3 ways to shape Kimchi Cavatelli: Use a knife, a fork, or a gnocchi board.


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Kimchi Cavatelli glazed with Bulgogi Sauce and topped with thinly sliced
scallions.
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masa malloredus
serves 8 as a side dish or starter

Malloredus, also known as Sardinian gnocchi, and


cavatelli are the same shape (you can use a gnocchi
board to form malloredus). The difference is in the
texture. Traditional malloredus are made entirely
with semolina flour and have a bit more bite and
chew than cavatelli. For this gluten-free version, we
made the dough with masa harina, to create that
same strong texture. The malloredus have a nutty
corn flavor that makes them a wonderful
accompaniment to a rich chili, or serve them simply
glazed with butter and Parmesan or blue cheese.
They keep well in the freezer, so you can make a big
batch and have some on hand for your next craving.
1⅔ cups / 250 grams instant masa
250 grams Masa Harina Puree (here)
½ cup / 113 grams water
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Put the masa flour into a bowl. Add the masa puree and use your fingertips
to break it up and mix it with the flour. Sprinkle in the water and knead the
dough until it is smooth and elastic.

Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 30 minutes.

Flour a large baking sheet.

Remove the dough from the refrigerator. Using a rolling pin, roll the dough
out ½ inch thick. Cut the dough into ½-inch squares. Roll each square along
a gnocchi board with your thumb so that it folds over itself, and transfer to
the baking sheet.

Refrigerate the malloredus if cooking the same day. Or freeze them on the
baking sheet until frozen hard, then transfer to a zip-top bag and freeze for
up to a month; cook directly from frozen.

To serve, cook the malloredus in a large pot of boiling salted water until just
tender, but with a nice chew to them. Fold into a warm sauce or ragout and
serve immediately.

Finished Masa Harina Puree in Shape the Masa Malloredus by


a food processor. cutting the dough into small
squares, rolling each into a ball,
and molding against a fork.
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Boiled Masa Malloredus, glazed with butter and cheese for a test bite.
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agnolotti
serves 6 to 8 as a starter or side dish

Agnolotti is a small, filled Italian pasta traditionally


made in a half moon or three-pointed triangular
shape, said to resemble a priest’s hat (the name
means “priests’ caps.”) Here in the United States,
thanks to Thomas Keller and his iconic French
Laundry Cookbook, agnolotti are more often a
stuffed pasta with three scalloped edges. That’s the
model we used for inspiration. We filled these light
and tender agnolotti with creamy cheddar cheese
sauce to create inside-out macaroni and cheese. We
use a bit of sodium citrate (also known as sour salt)
to emulsify and stabilize the cheese sauce. It helps
keep the fats in the cheese in suspension as the
agnolotti cook. Once cooked, they need nothing more
than some brown butter and a handful of chopped
chives to finish them. Eat these as a starter, along
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with a salad, or serve them as a side dish with


roasted chicken, fish, or mushrooms.
dough
1¾ cups / 227.5 grams Gluten-Free Flour Blend (What IiF Flour 3.0,
here, Batch-3 Flour, here, or Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend, here), or as
needed
½ cup / 35 grams powdered egg whites
1 large egg
5 large egg yolks
2 tablespoons / 30 grams whole milk
1 tablespoon / 14 grams olive oil

cheddar cheese filling


1 cup / 260 grams whole milk
1 tablespoon / 15 grams sodium citrate (see Sources, here)
¼ teaspoon / 0.5 gram cayenne
1 pound 2 ounces / 500 grams sharp cheddar cheese, grated

Cornmeal for dusting

To mix the dough by hand, put the flour and powdered egg whites in a large
bowl and whisk to blend. Form a well in the center of the flour.

Put the egg, yolks, milk, and olive oil in a small bowl and whisk together,
then pour into the well. Use your fingers or a fork to begin stirring from the
center outward, gradually incorporating the flour until the mixture forms a
soft dough.

Turn the entire contents of the bowl out onto your countertop and knead
with your hands, pulling in more flour as needed, until you have a smooth,
silky dough. Cover with plastic wrap and let rest for 30 minutes.
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To make the dough with a food processor, put the flour and powdered egg
whites in the processor bowl and pulse to blend. Add the egg, egg yolks,
milk, and olive oil and pulse 5 times, or until the mixture comes together
into a rough dough.

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and knead, adding
additional flour as needed, until it becomes smooth and silky. Cover with
plastic wrap and let rest for 30 minutes.

To make the filling, put the milk, sodium citrate, and cayenne into a
medium saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium heat, stirring with a
silicone spatula. Slowly stir in handfuls of the cheese, allowing each one to
mostly melt before the next addition. Turn the heat down to low and cook,
stirring, for 30 seconds longer to make sure all the cheese is melted.
Transfer the cheese mixture to a bowl and set over an ice bath to cool,
stirring occasionally. The filling will thicken as it cools.

When the cheese mixture is cold, put it into a piping bag fitted with a ½-
inch plain tip. Refrigerate until you are ready to make the agnolotti.

To shape the agnolotti, divide the dough into thirds. Work with one piece at
a time and keep the rest wrapped in plastic wrap. Set the rollers of a pasta
machine at the widest setting and roll the dough through the machine at
least three times, folding the dough between runs so that it is of uniform
thickness with smooth edges. Dust with flour if the dough is sticky or feels
tacky, but do this judiciously, because too much flour will prevent the
dough from adhering to itself when it is folded over. Set the machine to the
next setting and roll the dough through it twice. Continue in this manner
with each consecutively lower setting until the dough is thin enough that
you can see your hand through it, but not as fragile as tissue paper.

Lay the sheet of dough out horizontally on a lightly floured work surface.
Take the pastry bag from the refrigerator and pipe a uniform log of the
filling down the center of the strip of dough, leaving a ½-inch border at
each end. Fold the dough over, encasing the tube of filling. Using your
thumb and the pad of your hand, press the dough over onto itself and
around the tube of filling, aligning the edges of dough and pressing out any
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air pockets, so that the filling is completely and uniformly encased in


dough.

Hold both your hands above the dough, with your thumbs and forefingers in
a pinching position, and, starting at the left end of the dough, and keeping
¾-inch-between your hands, pinch the pasta and the filling together so that
a pillow of dough and filling is formed. The pinching action will create a
flat spacer, about ¾ inch wide, on either side of the filling. Move your
hands to the right so that your left hand will repinch the space initially
formed by your right hand while you use your right hand to help create a
second pasta pillow. Continue moving along the entire length of the pasta.
Then double-check the spacing making sure the spaces in between are
completely flat and the filling has been forced into plump pillows on either
side of each space.

Using a fluted pasta cutter, trim the long open edge of the dough ¾ inch
from the bottom of the pasta pillows; discard the trim. Then, starting at the
folded edge, roll the cutter between the pillows of pasta to separate the
agnolotti; use one continuous motion per cut. The cutting will fold the
edges of the pasta dough in on themselves, sealing the edges. Place the
agnolotti on a cornmeal-dusted baking sheet and cover loosely with a tea
towel.

Repeat the process with the remaining dough and filling.

Refrigerate the pasta if you will be cooking it the same day, or freeze it.
Freeze the agnolotti on the baking sheet until frozen hard, then transfer to a
zip-top bag and freeze for up to 4 weeks. Cook directly from the frozen
state.

Cook the agnolotti in a large pot of boiling salted water until tender, 2 to 3
minutes for fresh pasta, 5 to 6 minutes for frozen. Taste the pasta to check
the texture before draining it. Toss with sauce and serve immediately.

NOTE: Sodium citrate, also known as sour salt, is used in the agnolotti
filling to make it smooth and creamy. It has a salty and slightly tart flavor,
hence the name. It is an emulsifier and in this case binds the fat into the
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cheese mixture to keep it from separating out of the sauce and becoming
greasy.
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asian dumplings
makes about 2 dozen Chinese-style dumplings or 3
dozen Japanese-style dumplings

These are a family favorite. There could be some


quibbling about whether they are Japanese gyoza or
Chinese jiaozi. In our minds, it comes down mainly to
the size of the dumplings and the thickness of the
dough. In restaurants, Chinese dumplings tend to be
bigger, with a thicker skin, and Japanese dumplings
are smaller, with a thin skin. You can roll these out
however you please. Cooked properly, they will have
slightly chewy skins and a crisp bottom. We are
giving you our favorite pork filling, but you could
substitute an equal amount of chopped sautéed
mushrooms for the meat to make them vegetarian.
dough
2⅓ cups / 300 grams Gluten-Free Flour Blend (What IiF Flour 3.0,
here, Batch-3 Flour, here, or Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend, here)
¾ cup / 170 grams water
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pork filling
1 pound / 455 grams ground pork
2 cups / 200 grams Napa cabbage, finely shredded, and then finely
chopped
4 scallions, white and green parts, finely sliced
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 tablespoon / 6.25 grams minced peeled fresh ginger
¼ cup / 56 grams water
2 tablespoons / 33 grams soy sauce, preferably tamari
1 tablespoon / 14 grams Asian sesame oil
1 tablespoon / 15 grams finely chopped pickled ginger
¼ teaspoon / 1.5 grams fine sea salt

dipping sauce
½ cup / 130 grams soy sauce, preferably tamari
¼ cup / 56 grams rice vinegar
1 tablespoon / 14 grams Asian sesame or chile oil
3 scallions, white and green parts, thinly sliced

Peanut or vegetable oil, for cooking

To make the dough, put the flour in a medium bowl. Put the water in a
microwave-safe measuring cup and microwave for 1 minute. It should be
hot but not quite boiling. Pour the water into the flour, stirring with a fork.
Once the dough begins to come together, switch to your hands, scraping any
dough from the fork into the bowl. The dough will be very warm; wait a
minute or two if it is too hot to handle, then press and knead it until it comes
together in a rough ball.

Turn the dough out onto the countertop and knead it until it becomes
smooth and silky, 3 to 5 minutes. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and let it
rest at room temperature for at least 30 minutes, and up to 3 hours before
using. It will soften as it rests. (The dough can also be refrigerated for up to
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2 days. Let it come to room temperature for at least 30 minutes before


rolling it out.)

Meanwhile, make the filling: Put the ground pork, Napa cabbage, scallions,
garlic, fresh ginger, water, soy sauce, sesame oil, pickled ginger, and salt in
a medium bowl and mix well, so that everything is evenly distributed.
Cover and refrigerate.

To assemble the dumplings, line a baking sheet with parchment paper and
dust it with flour. Divide the dough in half. It may be sticky—if so, sprinkle
it with flour. Cover one half of the dough with plastic wrap. Roll the other
half out into a log approximately 1 inch in diameter. Cut the log into pieces
1 to 1½ inches thick, depending on whether you want larger or smaller
dumplings. Using a rolling pin, roll each piece out into a circle, getting the
dough as thin as you can without tearing it. Put 1 to 2 teaspoons of filling in
the center of each circle, depending on the size of your dumplings, leaving a
½ inch border all around the filling. (If the dough is dry, you can wet the
edges with your finger.) Lift up a dumpling and, beginning on one side,
press and pleat the edges together, moving along the circumference of the
dumpling, pleating one side only as you press it against the flat back side of
the dough, until the dumpling is sealed. The first dumpling is something of
a tester, as it will give you a feel for the amount of filling that works
comfortably and the technique of pleating the dough; each successive
dumpling will be easier. Lay the finished dumpling on the prepared baking
sheet. Repeat until all of the dumplings are made.

Cover the dumplings loosely with plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to
cook, or up to 6 hours, or freeze them. Freeze on the baking sheet until
frozen hard, then transfer to an airtight container and freeze for up to 1
month. Cook directly from the frozen state.

When you’re ready to cook the dumplings, make the dipping sauce: Put the
soy sauce, rice vinegar, sesame oil, and scallions in a small bowl and mix to
blend. Set aside.

Set a large skillet over medium-high heat and add 2 tablespoons of peanut
oil. Once the oil begins to shimmer, put about a dozen dumplings in the pan.
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They can be close together, but make sure that the bottoms are flat on the
bottom of the pan. Once they brown on the bottom, about 2 minutes, pour in
½ cup water, or enough to coat the entire bottom of the pan, and put the lid
on the pan. Let the dumplings steam for 2 to 3 minutes, until the water is
gone, then take off the lid. Cook for 1 to 2 minutes longer, until the bottoms
are dry and crisp. Use a spatula to remove the dumplings from the pan,
putting them crispy bottom facing up on a serving plate or platter. Wipe out
the pan, add more oil, and cook the remaining dumplings in batches. Serve
immediately, with the dipping sauce alongside.

Logs of dumpling dough are cut


into pieces, rolled out, stuffed
with a scoop of filling, and
Dumplings cooking on a tray
pinched into finished dumplings.
lined with parchment paper, in a
Then they are laid out on a tray
stainless steel steamer.
and covered with a towel so they
don’t dry out while the rest are
being made.

Pan-frying Asian Dumplings.


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A plate of assorted steamed and fried Asian Dumplings (here) and dipping
sauce.
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manicotti with scallion crepes


serves 6 to 8 as a main course

Manicotti can be humdrum or delicious. Many


restaurants simply serve tubes of pasta filled with
cheese in a pool of tomato sauce. But some make
their own delicate crepes, and the difference is
something special. Maybe it’s because you know
someone took the time to make the crepes by hand.
Truth be told, even with that step, these manicotti are
not difficult to prepare. You can also assemble the
whole casserole in advance, cover, and refrigerate
until ready to bake, which makes this the perfect
weeknight dinner for busy families on the go.
For the sauce, we use a combination of bacon and
prosciutto ends. Our local markets sell both of these
at a discount, and since we’re going to grind them
into the sauce, we don’t need beautiful slices (if you
don’t have a grinder, you can use a food processor;
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see below). Ask around and you may find that your
local supermarket will discount them for you, if not,
you can use sliced. We cook them down with white
wine and fire-roasted canned tomatoes to make a
chunky sauce that is full of flavor.
sauce
8 ounces / 225 grams bacon ends (from high-quality, smoky bacon; see
headnote)
8 ounces / 225 grams prosciutto ends (see headnote)
2 large onions
1⅓ cups / 300 grams dry white wine
One 28-ounce / 785 gram can crushed fire-roasted tomatoes

scallion crepes
6 scallions, white and green parts, trimmed
2 large eggs
¾ cup / 195 grams whole milk
¼ cup / 56 grams water
1 cup / 130 grams Gluten-Free Flour Blend (What IiF Flour 3.0, here,
Batch-3 Flour, here, or Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend, here)
3 tablespoons / 1½ ounces / 40 grams unsalted butter, melted
½ teaspoon / 3 grams fine sea salt

ricotta filling
1 pound / 450 grams ricotta cheese
5½ ounces / 155 grams fresh mozzarella, cut into small dice
1 large egg, lightly beaten
¼ cup / 25 grams grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
Small handful flat-leaf parsley leaves, chopped
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¼ teaspoon / 1.5 grams fine sea salt

To make the sauce, cut the bacon ends, prosciutto ends, and onions into
large dice. Put them through a meat grinder fitted with a ¼-inch die. (You
can chop the meat and onions in a food processor, but be careful not to over
process them; you want some texture.)

Transfer the mixture to a medium pot, set it over medium-low heat, cover,
and sweat the meat and onions for about 20 minutes, until soft.

Remove the lid and add the white wine. Turn the heat up to medium and
cook, stirring occasionally, until the mixture is almost dry.

Lightly crush the tomatoes and add them, along with all their liquid, to the
pot. Bring the mixture to a simmer and cook for about 20 minutes, until the
sauce thickens and the flavors come together. The sauce can be used now,
but it will benefit from resting in the refrigerator overnight. (The cooled
sauce can be refrigerated up to 3 days.)

To make the crepes, if you have a butane torch, put the scallions on a rack
set over a baking sheet and use the torch to char them on all sides. This is an
optional step, but it really deepens the flavor of the allium. Let cool.

Thinly slice the scallions and put them in a blender, along with the eggs,
milk, water, flour, butter, and salt. Turn the blender on low, slowly increase
the speed to medium, and blend for 10 seconds, or until you have a smooth
puree. Let the batter rest for 20 minutes before using.

Set a rack over a baking sheet. Set an 8-inch nonstick crepe or sauté pan
over medium-low heat. Once it gets hot, add 2 tablespoons of batter to the
pan, swirling it so that it coats the bottom, and cook for about 20 seconds,
until just set. Flip the crepe and cook for another 10 seconds, or until just
set, then transfer to the rack to cool. Repeat until all of the batter is used up.
Once the crepes are cool, they can be stacked on a small plate. (Makes
approximately 18 crepes.)

Preheat the oven to 350°F. (175°C.).


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To assemble the manicotti, put the ricotta cheese, mozzarella, egg, half of
the Parmigiano-Reggiano, the parsley, and salt in a medium bowl and mix
gently with a rubber spatula to combine. Transfer to a pastry bag fitted with
a ½-inch plain tip (or use a large zip-top bag; snip off one bottom corner).

Spread approximately one-third of the sauce in an even layer in the bottom


of a 12-by-15-inch roasting pan. Lay one crepe on a work surface and pipe
2 lines of cheese across the bottom third of it, about 1 inch from the bottom
edge. Lift the bottom of the crepe up and over the cheese, and roll it into a
cylinder. Lay the crepe seam side down in the roasting pan. Repeat with the
remaining crepes, nestling them together in the pan. Spoon the remaining
sauce over the top. Sprinkle with the remaining Parmigiano-Reggiano.

Cover with foil and bake for 20 minutes. Remove the foil and bake for 20
minutes more, or until the cheese is golden brown and the casserole is
bubbling and heated through. Serve immediately.
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CHAPTER 7

Pâte à Choux / Gougères


Éclairs
Pass-Around Stromboli Wheels
Yeasted Puff Pastry
Bacon and Onion Tart
Baked Brie
Apple Fritters
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pâte à choux / gougères


makes about 2 dozen puffs

Pâte à choux is an easy and versatile dough. If you


have Sourdough Starter in the pantry, you can even
make sourdough puffs for a wonderfully tangy
variation. Our favorite thing to make with the dough
is gougères. Served hot from the oven, they are
addictive little clouds of cheesy goodness. You could
also make plain puffs and stuff them with whipped
cream cheese and minced lox, beet tartare, pimento
cheese, or deviled ham for hors d’oeuvres. Or use the
vanilla pudding and ganache from the Boston Cream
Pie (here) to fill and frost cream puffs or éclairs. Or
put scoops of ice cream in the puffs and drizzle them
with Chocolate Glaze (here) or Bourbon Caramel
Sauce (here).
pâte à choux paste
1 cup / 225 grams water
8 tablespoons / 4 ounces / 113 grams unsalted butter
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½ teaspoon / 3 grams fine sea salt


1 cup / 130 grams Gluten-Free Flour Blend (What IiF Flour 3.0, here,
Batch-3 Flour, here, or Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend, here)
4 large eggs
¼ cup / 60 grams Gluten-Free Sourdough Starter (here; optional)

gougères (optional)
1 cup / 3½ ounces / 100 grams shredded Gruyère cheese
¼ teaspoon / 0.5 gram freshly ground black pepper
¼ teaspoon / 0.75 gram grated nutmeg

Put the water, butter, and salt in a medium saucepan and bring to a boil over
medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to medium and quickly stir in the flour
with a silicone spatula. Once the flour is absorbed, cook, stirring constantly,
until the mixture forms a ball, 3 to 5 minutes; there will be a light coating of
flour mixture on the bottom of the pan.

Transfer the dough to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle
attachment (or use a hand mixer) and mix on medium-low for 1 to 2
minutes to cool it down. Beat in the eggs one at a time, making sure each
egg is completely incorporated before adding the next; do not rush this
process. The dough may look curdled or lumpy as you beat in the eggs, but
it will come together in the end. Once all of the eggs have been absorbed,
you will have shiny, sticky dough. If using the sourdough starter, add it and
mix until fully blended.

If making gougères, add the cheese and black pepper and nutmeg to taste
and mix for about a minute, until incorporated. Set the mixing bowl in an
ice bath and let the dough cool completely, stirring occasionally. (At this
point the dough can be covered and kept in the refrigerator for up to 2
days.) Let the batter rest at room temperature for 6 hours so the sourdough
starter has a chance to ferment. The dough will loosen up a bit and you will
see a few bubbles rising to the surface.

Preheat the oven to 425°F. (220°C.). Line two baking sheets with parchment
paper.
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Transfer the dough to a pastry bag fitted with a large plain tip. Being careful
to hold the pastry bag straight up, pipe small mounds of dough, about 1
tablespoon each, onto the prepared baking sheets, leaving 2 inches of space
between them. (As an alternative, you can spoon the pâte à choux into
greased mini muffin tins, filling them three-quarters full.)

Bake for 10 minutes. Lower the oven temperature to 350°F. (180°C.),


without opening the oven door, and bake for 10 to 15 more minutes, until
the puffs rise, turn a deep golden brown, and are soft and custardy but set on
the inside. If the puffs are not fully cooked, they will deflate as they cool;
the easiest way to check is to pick one up—undercooked puffs will feel
heavy in your hand.

Let the gougères cool for 5 minutes on the warm stovetop and serve warm.
Small plain puffs should be cooled completely before splitting them open
and stuffing them with the filling of your choice.

Risen Sourdough Pâte à Choux,


Sourdough Pâte à Choux base,
ready to be transferred into a
mixed and ready for rising.
piping bag.
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Sourdough Pâte à Choux in a


Baked Sourdough Pâte à Choux
mini-muffin pan, ready for the
in a mini-muffin tin.
oven.

variation: éclairs
Pipe straight lines of dough approximately 3½ inches long and 1 inch wide.
Wet the tines of a fork and run them gently down the tops; making straight
lines; this will help the dough rise evenly. Bake for 15 minutes at 425°F.
(220°C.) and then 15 to 20 minutes at 350°F. (180°C.). Let cool completely.

Use the Vanilla Pudding here to fill them and the Chocolate Ganache from
the Boston Cream Pie (here) or the Chocolate Glaze here for icing the tops.
Put the custard in a piping bag fitted with a large plain tip. Split the éclairs
and pipe the custard into the bottom halves. Replace the tops and then
carefully dip the tops into the ganache or glaze. Put the éclairs on a rack set
over a baking sheet and chill for 1 hour before serving.
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Golden brown, crisp, gooey Gruyère Pâte à Choux.


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pass-around stromboli wheels


makes 2 dozen wheels

This yogurt dough is something special. It is a rich


pastry dough that you can use to make tarts or hand
pies or small turnovers. It’s more tender and elastic
than pie dough; unsweetened, allowing for sweet or
savory fillings; and endlessly versatile. It is pliable
and can be rolled out very thin. And the yogurt adds
a lactic tang that keeps it from being too rich.
Classic stromboli are large turnovers made with
pizza dough and stuffed with various Italian meats
and cheeses; here we’ve made savory stromboli
wheels that are full-flavored, slightly salty, and great
for large gatherings. Alternatively, you could fill
these rolls with grated cheddar cheese and diced
apples, sautéed mushrooms and shredded Gruyère, or
feta cheese and minced fresh herbs. For a sweet
version, spread the dough with jelly or caramel
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sauce, layer it with thin slices of fruit or berries, or


stuff it with nuts or chocolate chips.
yogurt pastry dough
2 cups / 260 grams Gluten-Free Flour Blend (What IiF Flour 3.0, here,
Batch-3 Flour, here, or Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend, here)
½ teaspoon / 2.5 grams baking soda
¼ teaspoon / 1.5 grams fine sea salt
6 tablespoons / 3 ounces / 85 grams unsalted butter, melted
½ cup / 120 grams Greek yogurt
1 large egg

filling
15 slices provolone cheese (¼ to ⅓ pound / 113 to 150 grams)
15 slices Genoa salami (¼ to ⅓ pound / 113 to 150 grams)
12 slices mozzarella cheese (¼ to ⅓ pound / 113 to 150 grams)
12 slices prosciutto (¼ to ⅓ pound / 113 to 150 grams)
2 tablespoons / 28 grams extra virgin olive oil
½ cup / 50 grams grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

To make the dough, put the flour, baking soda, and salt into a bowl and
whisk together. Put the melted butter, yogurt, and egg into another bowl and
whisk together until smooth. Use a fork to stir the yogurt mixture into the
flour. As the dough forms, use your fingertips to bring it together. Then turn
it out onto a clean countertop and briefly knead into a smooth ball. The
dough can be used immediately or wrapped in plastic wrap and refrigerated
until needed.

Lay out two 18-inch-long sheets of plastic wrap on the counter, overlapping
them to form a 13-by-18-inch rectangle. Put the dough in the center of the
plastic wrap and cover with two more overlapping pieces of plastic wrap.
Roll the dough into a 12-by-16-inch rectangle. Remove the top layer of
plastic wrap.
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Lay the provolone over the dough, leaving a ¼-inch border all around.
Cover the provolone with the salami, cover the salami with the mozzarella
slices, and cover the mozzarella with the prosciutto. Using the plastic wrap,
roll the dough up around the filling as if you were making a jelly roll. Brush
the dough all over with the olive oil and sprinkle the Parmesan over the
dough. Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour.

Preheat the oven to 400°F. (200°C.). Line two baking sheets with parchment
paper.

Unwrap the roll on a cutting board and turn seam side down. Cut it into 24
slices, about ½ inch thick. Arrange the slices about 1 inch apart on the
parchment-lined baking sheets.

Bake for 20 minutes, or until the dough is golden brown. Remove from the
oven and let the stromboli cool briefly on the pans, then serve warm.

Sliced Stromboli Wheels, ready Baked Stromboli Wheels, cooling


to bake. on a sheet pan.
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Pass-Around Stromboli Wheels on a plate, ready to be served.


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yeasted puff pastry


makes about 3¼ pounds

It’s easy to find regular puff pastry in the freezer


section of your supermarket, but not so much the
gluten-free version. Luckily, it’s quite easy to make
and absolutely delicious. Puff pastry is another
yeasted laminated dough (see Kouign Amann, here).
It does take a little bit of time to fold and roll the
butter layers into the dough, but the results are worth
it. The pastry bakes up into golden brown layers of
light, buttery goodness.
We’ve followed this recipe with two of our favorite
recipes made with puff pastry, Bacon and Onion Tart
(here) and Baked Brie (here). You could also use it
for a tarte Tatin, beef Wellington, fruit turnovers, or
anything else your heart desires. This recipe makes a
big batch, so you can use half and store the other half
in the freezer until inspiration hits.
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first dough
1½ cups / 195 grams Gluten-Free Flour Blend (What IiF Flour 3.0,
here, Batch-3 Flour, here, or Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend, here)
24 tablespoons (3 sticks) / 12 ounces / 337.5 grams unsalted butter, at
room temperature
¾ teaspoon / 4.5 grams fine sea salt
1 cup / 225 grams cold water

second dough
3½ cups / 455 grams Gluten-Free Flour Blend, plus extra for dusting
1 tablespoon / 12.5 grams sugar
½ teaspoon / 1.5 grams instant yeast
16 tablespoons (2 sticks) / 8 ounces / 225 grams frozen unsalted butter,
coarsely chopped

To make the first dough, put the flour, butter, and salt in the bowl of a stand
mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or use a hand mixer). Turn the
machine on low, gradually increase the speed to medium-high, and mix for
15 seconds, or until the butter and flour come together into a paste. Add the
water and turn the mixer on low. Once the water is absorbed, turn off the
mixer. Don’t worry, the dough is supposed to look like a shaggy mess at this
point.

To make the second dough, put the flour, sugar, yeast, and frozen butter in a
food processor and pulse 10 times to cut the butter into the flour. It should
look like very coarse meal.

Add the mixture to the dough in the bowl of the stand mixer. Turn the mixer
on low, gradually increase the speed to medium, and mix for 10 seconds, or
until a rough dough forms; it will be butter specked and shaggy. Transfer to
a clean bowl and cover with plastic wrap. Let the dough rise in a warm
place for 3 to 4 hours, until it rises slightly and develops a rich yeasty
aroma.
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Lay two 22-inch-long sheets of plastic wrap on the countertop, overlapping


them to form a 14-by-22-inch rectangle. Put the dough in the center of the
plastic wrap and cover with two more pieces of plastic wrap. Use a rolling
pin to gently roll the soft dough into a 13-by-18-inch rectangle. Put the
dough, still covered, on a baking sheet and refrigerate until firm, about 2
hours.

Remove the dough from the refrigerator. Lay two 22-inch-long sheets of
plastic wrap on the countertop, overlapping them to form a 14-by-22-inch
rectangle, with a long side toward you. Unwrap the dough and put it in the
center of the plastic wrap. Fold the right third of the dough over the middle.
Fold the left third dough over the center, as you would tri-fold a letter,
forming a 3-layer block of dough. Rotate the dough 90 degrees so the seams
are parallel to the edge of the counter. Lightly dust the top and bottom of the
dough with flour. Cover the dough with two 20-inch-long sheets of
overlapping plastic wrap and roll the dough into a 13-by-18-inch rectangle
again. Take off the top layer of plastic wrap and fold the dough into thirds
as before, using the bottom layer of plastic to help lift the dough. Dust the
dough with flour, rotate it 90 degrees, and flip it over. Dust the top with
flour. Cover the dough with the sheets of plastic wrap again and roll into a
13-by-18-inch rectangle. Remove the top layer of plastic wrap and fold the
dough into thirds again. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 2
hours, or until it is firm.

Remove the dough from the refrigerator and give it two more “turns”: Roll
it out again into a 13-by-18-inch rectangle, and fold it into thirds; repeat.
Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 2 hours, or until it is
firm.

The pastry is now ready to use, or it can be frozen, well wrapped, for up to
4 weeks.

Shaggy just-mixed Puff Pastry Shaggy Puff Pastry dough after


dough, ready to be removed from rising for 3 to 4 hours. It is now
the mixing bowl for the first rise. ready to be rolled out.
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Notice the streaks of butter as


Puff Pastry dough, first fold.
the dough is first rolled out.

Puff Pastry dough, second fold. Ready to use for pastries.


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Yeasted Puff Pastry dough, rolled out between layers of plastic wrap,
ready for filling.
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bacon and onion tart


serves 8 to 12 as a starter or side dish

This is a twist on the Alsatian flatbread tarte flambé


or Flammekuchen. Puff pastry dough is rolled thin
and layered with sour cream, thinly sliced onion, and
bacon, then baked in a hot oven. You could use
sautéed mushrooms instead of or on top of the
onions, or substitute thin slices of your favorite
salumi for the bacon. Either one crisps up like a
charm. We’ve been known to tuck crabmeat under the
onions or even add some freshly shucked clams
during the last 10 minutes of baking time. It’s a very
versatile preparation that you can use to delight your
guests.
½ batch Yeasted Puff Pastry (here)
½ cup / 120 grams sour cream
¼ teaspoon / 1.5 grams fine sea salt
1 medium onion, thinly sliced
4 ounces / 113 grams bacon, cut into matchstick pieces
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Preheat the oven to 400°F. (205°C.). Line a 13-by-18-inch baking sheet


with parchment paper.

Lay two 22-inch-long sheets of plastic wrap on the countertop, overlapping


them to form a 14-by-22-inch rectangle. Unwrap the dough and put it in the
center of the plastic wrap. Lightly dust the top and bottom of the dough
with flour. Cover the dough with two more sheets of overlapping plastic
wrap. Roll the dough out into a 13-by-18-inch rectangle. Take off the top
layer of plastic wrap. Use the bottom layer of plastic to help lift the dough
onto the prepared baking pan, then pull out the plastic wrap from
underneath.

Put the sour cream in a bowl and mix in the salt. Spread the sour cream over
the surface of the puff pastry. Spread the sliced onions over the sour cream.
Sprinkle the bacon over the onions.

Bake the tart for 20 minutes. Rotate the tart pan and bake for 20 more
minutes, until golden brown and crisp. Remove the pan from the oven and
let the tart rest for 5 minutes, then cut slices and serve hot.

Bacon and Onion Tart, crispy and hot out of the oven.
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Bacon and Onion Tart, sliced and ready to eat.


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baked brie
serves 12 to 15 as a starter

Baked Brie is a staple at our holiday gatherings. We


put it out when everyone is arriving, and it’s the
perfect snack to get people mingling and chatting.
Having to take turns scooping out the cheese and
watching other guests enjoy the gooey goodness
turns new acquaintances into friends. If you wanted
to gild the lily, you could spread a layer of preserves
over the top of the cheese before wrapping it in the
puff pastry. Fig jam, blackberry preserves, and
orange marmalade have all met with great success.
Alex has even been known to slide a layer of sliced
pepperoni in there, just because he loves it so much.
½ batch Yeasted Puff Pastry (here)
1 large wheel (2.2 pounds / 1 kilogram) Brie
1 egg yolk
2 tablespoons / 30 grams heavy cream

Preheat the oven to 400°F. (205°C.).


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Lay two 22-inch-long sheets of plastic wrap on the countertop overlapping


them to form a 22-inch square. Unwrap the dough and put it in the center of
the plastic wrap. Lightly dust the top and bottom of the dough with flour.
Cover the dough with two more sheets of plastic wrap. Roll the dough into
a square about an ⅛ inch thick. Remove the top layer of plastic.

Use a spoon to scrape the thin layer of white mold off the outside of the
Brie, leaving the rind intact. Put the Brie in the center of the puff pastry
square. Use the bottom sheets of plastic to help fold the pastry around the
Brie, covering the sides and most of the top; the puff pastry will not cover
the cheese entirely. Flip the pastry-wrapped cheese over and put it in a 3-
quart cast-iron Tarte tatin pan or 10-inch deep-dish pie pan, so when you cut
into it the oozing cheese stays with pastry until ready to bake. You can bake
this immediately or cover it with plastic wrap and refrigerate it until you are
ready to bake, up to 36 hours.

Put the egg yolk and heavy cream in a small bowl and use a pastry brush to
mix them together. Brush the puff pastry all over with the egg wash.

Put the Brie on a baking sheet and bake for 45 minutes, or until the top is
brown and crusty and the cheese is molten underneath. Remove from the
oven and let rest for 5 minutes.

Put the Tarte Tatin pan on a trivet and serve with crackers and slices of
Honeycrisp or another juicy apple.
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apple fritters
makes about 2 dozen fritters

There’s nothing like a warm fritter on a chilly fall


afternoon. These apple fritters are crisp on the
outside, tender in the inside, and full of fruit. They
are leavened with whipped egg whites instead of
baking powder, avoiding any potential bitterness or
chemical aftertaste. As with many of the recipes in
this book, we love this one for its versatility. Apple
fritters may be our favorite, but you can use any fruit
you like. The apple cider can be changed out for any
other fruit juice or even bourbon, eau-de-vie, or a
flavorful liqueur, if you like to walk on the wild side.
These are wonderful for a special breakfast but can
really be served at any time of day. The dusting of
powdered sugar ensures that these small bites are
finger-licking good.
Rice bran oil or peanut oil for deep-frying
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1 cup + 2 tablespoons / 150 grams Gluten-Free Flour Blend (What IiF


Flour 3.0, here, Batch-3 Flour, here, or Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend,
here)
¼ cup / 50 grams granulated sugar
½ teaspoon / 3 grams fine sea salt
½ cup / 113 grams water
3 tablespoons / 42 grams apple cider
2 large eggs, separated
½ teaspoon / 2 grams vanilla paste or pure vanilla extract
2 cups / 455 grams finely diced peeled apples
¼ teaspoon / 0.5 gram ground cinnamon
1 cup / 112 grams powdered sugar

Fill a deep fryer or large heavy pot with oil and heat to 375°F. (190°C.).

Meanwhile, put the flour, sugar, and salt in a medium bowl and whisk to
blend.

Put the water, apple cider, egg yolks, and vanilla in a measuring cup and
whisk to blend. Pour the liquid into the flour mixture and mix until just
blended.

Put the diced apples in a bowl, add the cinnamon, and toss to coat. Fold the
apples into the fritter batter and let it rest as the oil heats up. Put the
powdered sugar in a small strainer set over a bowl.

When the oil is ready, whip the egg whites to soft peaks and fold into the
batter. Use a ¾-ounce scoop to drop fritters into the hot oil, without
crowding, and fry, flipping them once, until a deep brown on both sides,
about 5 to 6 minutes. Transfer to a bowl lined with paper towels or a rack.
Liberally dust both sides of the fritters with powdered sugar while they are
still warm. Continue to fry until you’ve used up all of the batter, and serve
warm.
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These just-fried Apple Fritters (here) should be dusted with powdered


sugar and served warm.
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CHAPTER 8

Moist Corn Pound Cake


Oatmeal Cherry Cake with Coconut Pecan Topping
Easy One-Bowl Caramel Cake
Blueberry Streusel Cake
Jenny’s Chocolate Bundt Cake
Glazes for Cakes Large and Small
Vanilla Glaze
Lime Glaze
Maple Glaze
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Honey Lemon Glaze


Bourbon Chocolate Glaze
Cocoa Glaze
Chocolate Glaze
Deep, Dark Yeasted Chocolate Bundt Cake
Yeasted Vanilla Bundt Cake
Triple-Ginger Cake
Japanese Cheesecake
Lemon Yogurt Cannoli Cake
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moist corn pound cake


makes one 9-by-5-inch loaf cake

This buttery pound cake is bursting with corn flavor.


It has a fine texture, with a very delicate crunch, and
a nicely browned crust. It’s so simple and yet the
flavor is complex. You could add a splash of rum or
bourbon to the batter along with the vanilla if your
tastes run that way, but this kid-friendly version is
darned near perfection.
1½ cups / 210 grams corn flour
1½ cups / 195 grams Gluten-Free Flour Blend (What IiF Flour 3.0,
here, Batch-3 Flour, here, or Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend, here)
20 tablespoons (2½ sticks) / 10 ounces / 285 grams unsalted butter,
diced, at room temperature
1 cup / 200 grams sugar
1 teaspoon / 6 grams baking powder
½ teaspoon / 3 grams fine sea salt
1 cup (packed) / 205 grams dark brown sugar
5 large eggs, at room temperature
1½ cups / 360 grams buttermilk, at room temperature
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1 teaspoon / 4 grams pure vanilla extract

Preheat the oven to 350°F. (180°C.). Butter a 9-by-5-by-3-inch loaf pan and
dust with corn flour.

Put the corn flour and flour in a medium bowl and whisk together.

Put the butter, sugar, baking powder, and salt in the bowl of a stand mixer
fitted with the paddle attachment (or use a hand mixer) and beat on low
until creamy and light. With the mixer running, add the brown sugar ¼ cup
at a time, mixing until all of the sugar has been incorporated and the
mixture is creamy. With the mixer still on low, add the eggs one at a time,
mixing until each egg is fully incorporated before adding the next; the
mixture should be light and fluffy.

Put the buttermilk and vanilla in a small measuring cup and stir them
together. Add one-third of the flour mixture to the butter mixture and mix
on low until the flour is fully absorbed. Add half the buttermilk and mix
until it is absorbed, then beat in half of the remaining flour. Beat in the
remaining buttermilk, followed by the remaining flour mixture.

Use a rubber spatula to scrape the batter into the loaf pan, spreading it
evenly, and smooth the top. (It will have the texture of stiffly whipped
cream.) Bake for 80 to 90 minutes, until a cake tester inserted in the center
comes out clean; the internal temperature should be 208° to 210°F. (98° to
99°C.). Cool for 15 minutes in the pan on a rack, then invert onto a rack to
cool completely.

You can serve this plain or gild the lily with whipped cream and fruit. Well-
wrapped, the cake will keep for 5 days at room temperature—though ours is
always a distant memory by then.
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Golden-brown Moist Corn Pound Cake, cooled and ready to be sliced.


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A close up of the fine, tender crumb of the Moist Corn Pound Cake.
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oatmeal cherry cake with coconut


pecan topping
makes one 8-inch square cake

Oatmeal cake may seem like a strange idea, but one


bite of this tender, sweetly spiced cake, and you will
be hooked. It reminds us of granola because of all of
the different flavors and textures, starting with the
nutty oats. We added dried cherries, much as we
would to a bowl of oatmeal, giving the cake a sweet
tang. Broiling the topping lightly toasts the coconut
and pecans while caramelizing the frosting.
oatmeal cake
1½ cups / 360 grams buttermilk
1 cup / 100 grams rolled oats
16 tablespoons (2 sticks) / 8 ounces / 225 grams unsalted butter, at room
temperature
1½ cups (packed) / 320 grams light brown sugar
1 teaspoon / 6 grams baking powder
¾ teaspoon / 4.5 grams fine sea salt
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½ teaspoon / 2.5 grams baking soda


½ teaspoon / 1 gram ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon / 4 grams vanilla paste or pure vanilla extract
2 large eggs, at room temperature
1⅓ cups / 175 grams Gluten-Free Flour Blend (What IiF Flour 3.0,
here, Batch-3 Flour, here, or Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend, here)
½ cup / 65 grams dried sweet cherries

coconut pecan topping


1½ cups (packed) / 320 grams light brown sugar
6 tablespoons / 3 ounces / 85 grams unsalted butter
1 cup / 56 grams unsweetened flaked dried coconut
1 cup / 110 grams chopped pecans
½ cup / 120 grams heavy cream
¼ teaspoon / 1.5 grams fine sea salt

Mix together the buttermilk and rolled oats in a bowl. Cover and set aside
for at least 30 minutes to hydrate. (This can be done the day before; leave
out overnight.)

Preheat the oven to 325°F. (165°C.). Butter and lightly flour a 9-by-13 inch
cake pan.

To make the cake, put the butter, brown sugar, baking powder, salt, baking
soda, cinnamon, and vanilla in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the
paddle attachment (or use hand mixer) and beat on medium-low until light
and creamy, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the eggs one at a time, mixing until each
one is fully incorporated before adding the next. Add the oat mixture and
beat until incorporated. Add the flour and beat until the batter is smooth and
silky, about 2 minutes. Fold in the dried cherries.

Pour the batter into the prepared baking pan, using an offset spatula to
spread it evenly, and smooth the top. Bake for 30 to 35 minutes, or until the
cake springs back when gently pressed with a finger; it should be just
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beginning to pull back from the sides of the pan; the internal temperature
should be 190 to 195°F. (88° to 91°C.).

Meanwhile, make the topping. Put the brown sugar, butter, coconut, pecans,
cream, and salt in a small bowl and mix vigorously with a rubber spatula
until soft and spreadable.

When the cake is done, remove it from the oven and turn on the broiler.

Spread the topping evenly over the cake (still in its pan) and broil on the top
rack for 3 to 4 minutes, until the topping bubbles and the coconut is golden
brown. Remove from oven and let cool for at least 15 minutes before
serving.

Getting the first piece out can be a little tricky; a pie trowel or offset spatula
is helpful here, then the rest are easy.

Oatmeal Cherry Cake, hot out of the oven, with a broiled, caramelized
coconut pecan topping.
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Slice the moist, tender Oatmeal Cherry Cake with a serrated knife to
easily cut through the crust and transfer the slices.
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easy one-bowl caramel cake


makes one 8-inch square cake

Every parent should have a recipe like this in his or


her repertoire. It’s easy, comes together quickly, and
has infinite variations. This makes a beautiful white
cake with a light texture and a moist crumb, which is
drenched in a caramel glaze. We also include a
variation for a blueberry streusel cake. It’s a great
starter cake for young cooks, because it’s all made in
one bowl. We usually make this in a stand mixer, but
it turns out just as well with a hand mixer. The only
caveat is that all of the ingredients have to be at
room temperature for the batter to come together. If
you forget to plan ahead, the eggs can be warmed in
a bowl of warm water; diced butter will come to
room temperature in your mixing bowl in 10 to 15
minutes (about the time it takes to preheat the oven);
and cold milk can be warmed in the microwave for
about 30 seconds.
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The caramel glaze is moist without being too sticky.


We add a touch of butter and vanilla to amplify the
flavor of the caramelized sugar. Cut into squares, this
makes a great dessert cake, reminiscent of those little
snack cakes with caramel frosting, only better.
vanilla cake
2 cups / 260 grams Gluten-Free Flour Blend (What IiF Flour 3.0, here,
Batch-3 Flour, here, or Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend, here)
1½ cups / 300 grams sugar
1 tablespoon / 18 grams baking powder
1 teaspoon / 6 grams fine sea salt
1 cup / 260 grams whole milk, at room temperature
3 large eggs, at room temperature
16 tablespoons (2 sticks) / 8 ounces / 225 grams unsalted butter, diced,
at room temperature
1 teaspoon / 4 grams vanilla paste or pure vanilla extract

caramel glaze
2¼ cups (packed) / 480 grams light brown sugar
1 cup / 240 grams heavy cream
¼ teaspoon / 1.5 grams fine sea salt
2 tablespoons / 1 ounce / 28 grams unsalted butter
1 teaspoon / 4 grams pure vanilla extract

fleur de sel, for garnish (optional)

Preheat the oven to 350°F. (180°C.). Butter and flour a 9-by-13-inch baking
pan.
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To make the cake, put the flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt in the bowl
of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or use a hand mixer) and
mix on low until blended. Add the milk, eggs, butter, and vanilla, mixing on
low, then slowly increase the speed to medium. Once the batter is smooth,
mix for 2 minutes.

Pour the batter into the prepared pan and spread it evenly, with a small
spatula, then smooth the top. Bake for 30 minutes, or until the cake just
begins to pull away from the sides of the pan; the internal temperature
should be 190° to 195°F. (88° to 91°C.). Remove from the oven and let cool
completely in the pan on a rack.

To make the caramel glaze, put the brown sugar, cream, and salt in a small
pot and stir just until the sugar has dissolved. Set over medium-high heat
and cook until the mixture reaches 235°F. (113°C.).

Remove from the heat and carefully stir in the butter and vanilla; it will
steam and bubble vigorously. Set the pot in a bowl of ice water and stir
constantly for 5 minutes, or until the caramel thickens but is still pourable.

Pour half of the caramel over the top of the cake, tilting the pan as needed
to spread it evenly over the top. Don’t let it seep down the sides, or the cake
will stick to the pan. Then set the pan down and pour the rest of the glaze
over the top. After 5 minutes, lightly sprinkle fleur de sel over the top, if
using. Let cool completely before serving.

Getting the first piece out can be a little tricky—a pie trowel or offset
spatula is helpful here.

Light, silky “one-bowl batter” Pour the caramel glaze over the
for Caramel Cake or Blueberry golden-brown sponge cake after
Streusel Cake. baking and cooling. Sprinkle
with fleur de sel.
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A luscious slice of Caramel Cake with soft salted caramel.


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variation: blueberry streusel cake

This blueberry streusel cake is almost like a crumble.


The cooked blueberries are juicy and tender, barely
contained by the tender cake layer, and the crunchy
almond streusel on top adds a contrasting nutty
flavor and bit of texture to keep things interesting.
almond streusel
½ cup (packed) / 106 grams light brown sugar
½ cup / 70 grams unblanched whole almonds
½ cup / 50 grams rolled oats
6 tablespoons / 50 grams Gluten-Free Flour Blend (What IiF Flour 3.0,
here, Batch-3 Flour, here, or Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend, here)
1 teaspoon / 2 grams ground cinnamon
¼ teaspoon / 1.5 grams fine sea salt
6 tablespoons / 3 ounces / 85 grams cold unsalted butter, diced

blueberry cake
2 cups / 340 grams blueberries
Batter for vanilla cake (above)

Preheat the oven to 350°F. (180 C.). Butter and flour a 9-by-13-inch baking
pan.

To make the streusel, put the brown sugar, almonds, oats, flour, cinnamon,
and salt in a food processor and pulse 3 or 4 times, until well mixed. Add
the butter and pulse 3 or 4 times, until the mixture looks clumpy. Turn the
mixture out into a bowl and squeeze it with your fingers a few times to form
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bigger clumps. Cover and refrigerate while you make the vanilla cake
batter.

Scatter the blueberries evenly over the bottom of the prepared baking pan.
Pour the batter over the blueberries pan and spread it evenly with a small
offset spatula, then smooth the top. Sprinkle the streusel over the top.

Bake as directed, and let cool in the pan.

Slowly pour batter over the


Blueberries layered into a
berries and use a small offset
buttered baking dish for
spatula to gently cover them
Blueberry Streusel Cake.
completely.

Sprinkle almond streusel over A layer of streusel tops the cake


the cake batter. batter before baking.
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Golden-brown Blueberry Streusel Cake, hot from the oven.


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A platter of sliced Blueberry Streusel Cake (here) for breakfast, layers of


fruit and cake with a sandy topping.
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jenny’s chocolate bundt cake


makes 1 small Bundt cake

We created this for Jenny, a family member and good


friend. She was diagnosed with celiac disease a few
years ago and was worried that she’d never enjoy
our cakes and cookies again. This cake is one of the
first things we made for her, and it quickly became a
favorite. It’s moist and chocolaty, with a tender
crumb. Aki likes just a dusting of powdered sugar
instead of icing, but if you prefer something a little
sweeter you can make one of the glazes here–here or
the Caramel Glaze here.
2 cups / 260 grams Gluten-Free Flour Blend (What IiF Flour 3.0, here,
Batch-3 Flour, here, or Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend, here)
1 cup / 85 grams high-quality natural cocoa powder
16 tablespoons (2 sticks) / 8 ounces / 225 grams unsalted butter, at room
temperature
2 cups / 400 grams granulated sugar
1 teaspoon / 6 grams fine sea salt
1 teaspoon / 5 grams baking soda
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½ teaspoon / 3 grams baking powder


4 large eggs, at room temperature
1 cup / 225 grams buttermilk, at room temperature
¼ cup / 30 grams powdered sugar for dusting

Preheat the oven to 350°F. (180°C.). Butter a 7½-inch (6-cup) Bundt pan
and dust with flour.

Whisk together the flour and cocoa in a medium bowl. Set aside.

Put the butter, granulated sugar, salt, baking soda, and baking powder in the
bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or use hand mixer)
and beat on low until light and fluffy. Add the eggs one at a time, mixing
until each one is fully incorporated before adding the next. Add one-third of
the flour mixture and mix until just blended. Add half the buttermilk and
mix until just blended. Repeat with half of the remaining flour mixture,
followed by the remaining buttermilk, and then the last of the flour mixture.

Scrape the batter into the prepared cake pan. Bake for 55 to 65 minutes,
until the cake springs back when lightly touched and a cake tester inserted
in the center comes out clean; the internal temperature should be 203° to
208°F. (95° to 98°C.). Let cool in the pan on a rack for 15 minutes, then
turn out onto a rack to cool completely.

Just before serving, dust the top of the cake with the powdered sugar. The
cake will keep in an airtight container for up to a week.
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glazes for cakes large and small

We love Bundt cakes for their handsome shape and


versatility. It’s easy to simply dust one with powdered
sugar, but sometimes you want something a little
fancier. We’ve included recipes for a few of our
favorite glazes here. Most call for powdered sugar
rather than granulated because the small amount of
cornstarch in the sugar helps the glaze set to a firm
finish. When you make one of these glazes, if it seems
too thick for your taste, add a little more milk or
water or other liquid to thin it out, or just heat it very
gently. Then set the cooled Bundt or other cake on a
rack set on a baking sheet and slowly pour the glaze
over the top.
Cupcakes can just be dunked in the bowl of liquid
glaze to coat the tops, or you can spoon some glaze
over the top. If you want to add sprinkles, sugar,
chopped nuts, or fruit, simply sprinkle them on before
the glaze sets.
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Each of the following recipes makes enough glaze to


coat a small (6-cup) Bundt cake or to drizzle nicely
over a large (12-cup) Bundt. To fully coat a larger
Bundt cake or frost at least a dozen cupcakes, double
the recipes.

vanilla glaze
makes about 1 cup
2 cups / 240 grams powdered sugar
3 tablespoons / 48.75 grams whole milk
½ teaspoon / 2 grams vanilla paste or pure vanilla extract

Put the powdered sugar, milk, and vanilla in a small bowl and stir until
smooth. Use immediately.

lime glaze
makes about 1 cup
2 cups / 240 grams powdered sugar
¼ cup / 56 grams fresh lime juice
⅛ teaspoon / 0.75 gram fine sea salt
Grated zest of 1 lemon

Put the powdered sugar, lime juice, salt, and lemon zest in a small bowl and
stir until smooth. Use immediately.

maple glaze
makes about 1¼ cups
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2 tablespoons / 1 ounce / 28 grams unsalted butter


¼ cup / 60 grams pure maple syrup, preferably Grade B
⅛ teaspoon / 0.75 gram fine sea salt
2 cups / 240 grams powdered sugar

Put the butter, maple syrup, and salt in a small saucepan and stir over
medium heat until the butter has fully melted; remove from the heat.

Put the powdered sugar in a small bowl, add the butter mixture, and stir
until smooth. Use immediately.

honey lemon glaze


makes just over a cup
2 cups / 240 grams powdered sugar
3 tablespoons / 50 grams honey
2 tablespoons / 28 grams fresh lemon juice
⅛ teaspoon/ 0.75 gram fine sea salt

Put the powdered sugar, honey, lemon juice, and salt in a small bowl and
stir until smooth. Use immediately.

bourbon chocolate glaze


makes about 1 cup
2 cups / 240 grams powdered sugar
⅛ teaspoon / 0.75 gram fine sea salt
¼ cup / 65 grams Bourbon Chocolate Syrup (here), or your favorite
chocolate syrup

Put the powdered sugar and salt in a small bowl, add the chocolate syrup,
stir until smooth. Use immediately.
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cocoa glaze
makes about 1¼ cups
2 cups / 240 grams powdered sugar
¼ cup / 30 grams natural cocoa powder
4 tablespoons / 2 ounces / 56 grams unsalted butter, at room
temperature
2 tablespoons / 32.5 grams whole milk
⅛ teaspoon/ 0.75 gram fine sea salt

Put the powdered sugar and cocoa in a medium bowl and whisk to blend.
Whisk in the butter. Add the milk and salt and whisk until smooth. Use
immediately.

chocolate glaze
makes about 1½ cups
6 ounces / 170 grams bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped
1 cup / 240 grams heavy cream
1 teaspoon / 6 grams light corn syrup
¼ teaspoon / 1.5 grams fine sea salt

Put the chocolate in a heatproof bowl.

Put the heavy cream, corn syrup, and salt in a small saucepan and bring to a
simmer over medium-high heat. Immediately pour over the chocolate and
whisk until smooth. Use immediately.
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deep, dark yeasted chocolate bundt


cake
makes 1 large Bundt cake

Alex became obsessed with yeasted cakes when


developing this recipe: There are few other recipes
for yeasted cakes around, fine-tuning this one
required numerous trials. The obstacle was
determining how much moisture and hydration was
needed for the long-fermented cake. Alex loves the
complexity and tang that fermentation adds to the
batter. This cake is moist and rich, and a small slice
goes a long way.
2⅔ cups / 350 grams Gluten-Free Flour Blend (What IiF Flour 3.0,
here, Batch-3 Flour, here, or Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend, here)
¾ cup + 1 tablespoon + 1 teaspoon / 100 grams natural cocoa powder
½ cup + 2 tablespoons / 50 grams nonfat milk powder
2 cups (packed) / 400 grams light brown sugar
1 teaspoon / 3 grams instant yeast
1 teaspoon / 6 grams fine sea salt
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4 large eggs, at room temperature


1 cup + 2½ tablespoons / 300 grams whole milk
3 tablespoons + 1 teaspoon / 40 grams vanilla paste or pure vanilla
extract
32 tablespoons (4 sticks) / 1 pound / 450 grams unsalted butter, melted
and cooled

Put the flour, cocoa, milk powder, sugar, yeast, and salt in a large bowl and
whisk together.

Put the eggs, milk, vanilla paste, and melted butter in a medium bowl and
whisk together until fully blended. Pour the wet mixture into the dry and
whisk until a smooth batter is formed. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap or
transfer the batter to a 6-quart container with a lid. Leave the batter at room
temperature for 4 hours.

Use a rubber spatula to stir the batter together again. It may have risen a bit
and have some bubbles, but will look essentially the same. Cover the batter
again and let sit at room temperature for 18 hours. It will nearly double in
volume and be thick, with a slightly glossy sheen and bubbles from the
yeast throughout.

Butter a 10-inch (12-cup) Bundt pan.

Use a rubber spatula to gently stir the batter until smooth, then pour it into
the Bundt pan. Cover the pan loosely with plastic wrap and let the batter
rise again for 30 minutes. It will continue to bubble and rise slightly.

Preheat the oven to 325°F. (165°C.).

Discard the plastic wrap and bake the cake for 1¼ hours, or until a cake
tester inserted in the center comes out clean; the internal temperature should
be 208° to 210°F. (98° to 99°C.). Cool the cake in the pan on a rack for 15
minutes.

Invert the cake onto the rack and remove the pan. Let the cake cool
completely before serving.
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Allow Deep, Dark Yeasted Chocolate Bundt Cake to cool completely


before slicing.
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yeasted vanilla bundt cake


makes 1 large Bundt cake

While it is similar to the chocolate cake, this vanilla


cake deserves a spot of its own. We love Nielsen-
Massey’s vanilla paste, and we always use it when
vanilla extract is called for. It’s thicker, slightly sweet,
and loaded with flecks of real vanilla bean. It has a
much more complex flavor than extract. The vanilla
flavor is the star in this cake, so we urge you to use
the best vanilla you can get your hands on. Scraping
the seeds from a fresh pod into the batter will bump
the vanilla up a notch; in that case, use 1 bean and 2
tablespoons paste or extract. A great way to store
vanilla beans is in a large Mason jar with a couple of
inches of dark rum or vodka in the bottom of the jar.
The liquid will help keep the beans moist and the
alcohol will absorb the vanilla flavor. Once you’ve
used the beans, you can the use the rum or vodka to
make drinks or flavor cakes. This cake can be glazed
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(see here) or dusted with powdered sugar if you like.


Or toast slices and serve with butter and maple
syrup. No matter how you serve it, it will be a cake to
remember.
3½ cups / 455 grams Gluten-Free Flour Blend (What IiF Flour 3.0,
here, Batch-3 Flour, here, or Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend, here)
½ cup + 2 tablespoons / 50 grams nonfat milk powder
2 cups / 400 grams sugar
1 teaspoon / 3 grams instant yeast
1 teaspoon / 6 grams fine sea salt
4 large eggs
1 cup + 2½ tablespoons / 300 grams whole milk
3 tablespoons + 1 teaspoon / 40 grams vanilla paste or pure vanilla
extract
32 tablespoons (4 sticks) / 1 pound / 450 grams unsalted butter, melted
and cooled

Put the flour, milk powder, sugar, yeast, and salt in a large bowl and whisk
to blend together.

Put the eggs, milk, vanilla paste, and melted butter in a medium bowl and
whisk together until fully blended. Pour the wet mixture into the dry and
whisk until a smooth batter is formed. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap or
transfer the batter to a 6-quart container with a lid. Leave the batter at room
temperature for 4 hours.

Use a rubber spatula to stir the batter together again. It may have risen a bit
and have some bubbles, but it will look essentially the same. Cover the
batter again and let sit at room temperature for 18 hours. It will nearly
double in volume and be thick, with a slightly glossy sheen and bubbles
from the yeast throughout.

Butter 10-inch (12-cup) Bundt pan.


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Use a rubber spatula to gently stir the batter until smooth, then pour it into
the Bundt pan. Cover the pan loosely with plastic wrap and let the batter
rise for 30 minutes. It will continue to bubble and rise slightly.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. (175°C.).

Discard the plastic wrap and bake the cake for about 65 minutes, until a
cake tester inserted in the center comes out clean; the internal temperature
should be 208° to 210°F. (98° to 99°C.). Cool the cake in the pan on a
cooling rack for 15 minutes.

Invert the cake onto the rack and remove the pan. Let the cake cool
completely before serving.
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Allow Yeasted Vanilla Bundt Cake to cool completely before slicing.


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triple-ginger cake
makes one 9-inch cake

This cake is moist and slightly sticky, with big, deep


flavors. A springform cake pan with a removable
bottom is a great choice for baking this cake; it
makes it easy to lift the cake out of the pan and we
like the straight sides. We’ve used a combination of
fresh and dried ginger to capture as much of its floral
essence as possible, and then we make the glaze with
spicy (nonalcoholic) ginger beer to really ratchet up
the flavor. Real ginger beer is fermented with fresh
ginger, rather than carbonated water flavored with
ginger, giving it both a more intense flavor and less
carbonation. Among our favorites are Regatta,
Reed’s, Fentimans, and Fever-Tree.
ginger cake
1 cup / 225 grams water
2 teaspoons / 10 grams baking soda
1 cup / 340 grams molasses
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3 ounces / 85 grams fresh ginger, peeled and sliced


1 cup / 200 grams sugar
1 teaspoon / 2 grams ground cinnamon
¾ teaspoon / 4.5 grams fine sea salt
¼ teaspoon / 0.5 gram ground ginger
¼ teaspoon / 0.5 gram ground mace
2 large eggs, at room temperature
16 tablespoons (2 sticks) / 8 ounces / 225 grams unsalted butter, melted
2½ cups / 325 grams Gluten-Free Flour Blend (What IiF Flour 3.0,
here, Batch-3 Flour, here, or Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend, here)

ginger glaze
3¾ cups / 450 grams powdered sugar
¼ cup / 56 grams spicy ginger beer

Preheat the oven to 350°F. (175°C.).

Butter a 9-inch springform pan; wrap the bottom of the pan with foil in case
of leaks. Put the pan on a baking sheet lined with a silicone mat or a sheet
of parchment paper.

To make the cake, put the water in a large glass measuring cup and
microwave for 1 minute. Add the baking soda and stir to dissolve. Add the
molasses and stir well to blend. Set aside.

Put the fresh ginger, sugar, cinnamon, salt, ground ginger, and mace in a
food processor and pulse until the fresh ginger is finely ground. Add the
eggs to the food processor one at a time, pulsing to blend after each
addition. Turn the processor on and stream in the melted butter. Add all of
the flour, pulsing to blend. Turn the processor on and stream in the
water/molasses mixture, stopping the machine once it has been
incorporated. The batter will be thin, and you may need to scrape down the
sides and pulse a few times to mix completely.
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Pour the batter into the prepared cake pan. Bake for about 1 hour and 10
minutes, until a skewer inserted in the center comes out clean; the internal
temperature should be 190° to 195°F. (88° to 90°C.). Let the cake cool
completely in the pan on a rack.

Remove the cake from the pan and put it on a rack set over a baking sheet.

To make the glaze, put the powdered sugar in a large glass measuring cup or
a bowl with a spout and slowly whisk in the ginger beer until the mixture is
smooth and pourable. Spoon the glaze over the top of the cake. Let it stand,
uncovered, for at least 2 hours so the glaze can set.

Triple-Ginger Cake, freshly Triple-Ginger Cake glazed with a


baked and cooling in the pan. sweet and spicy ginger glaze.
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A moist, tender slice of Triple-Ginger Cake.


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japanese cheesecake
makes one 10-inch cake

Japanese cheesecakes, known for their fluffy, feather-


light texture and delicate flavor, are incredibly
popular in Japan. If you search them out here in the
States, you may find them in Japanese and other
Asian bakeries. Traditionally they are baked in a
water bath for gentle, even cooking. We use a muffin
tin filled with water to create a moist environment in
the oven, which circumvents the problem of how to
get the cake out of the hot water bath when it’s done.
The cake briefly cooling in the turned-off oven helps
keep it from falling while preserving its soft texture.
This is a cake for all cheesecake lovers.
1½ pounds / 775 grams cream cheese, at room temperature
6 large eggs, separated
2½ cups / 600 grams sour cream
1 cup / 130 grams Gluten-Free Flour Blend (What IiF Flour 3.0, here,
Batch-3 Flour, here, or Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend, here)
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¾ cup / 150 grams granulated sugar


1 teaspoon / 6 grams fine sea salt
1⅔ cups / 200 grams powdered sugar, sifted

Position the racks in the middle and lower third of the oven and preheat the
oven to 300°F. (150°C.). Fill the cups of a 12-cup muffin tin (or use a
baking pan) with water three-quarters full and put the tin on the bottom
oven rack.

Spray a 10-inch springform pan with nonstick cooking spray and use a
paper towel to wipe it evenly over the inside. Cut a 6-by-32-inch strip of
parchment paper and insert it in the pan to create a collar; press it against
the sides of the pan—it should adhere to the spray and stay in place without
tape.

Put the cream cheese, egg yolks, sour cream, flour, granulated sugar, and
salt in a blender. Turn the speed on to low, gradually increase to high, and
blend for 30 seconds, or until the mixture is homogenous. Use a rubber
spatula to scrape down the sides. Turn the blender on low, gradually
increase the speed to medium-high, and blend for 5 to 10 seconds more to
ensure that the mixture is smooth.

Put the egg whites in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk
attachment (or use a hand mixer) and mix on low until they are broken up.
Add a tablespoon of the powdered sugar and whip until egg whites absorb
the sugar and become foamy. Still on low speed, continue adding the sugar
2 tablespoons at a time. Once all the sugar has been added, increase the
speed to high and whip the whites to shiny, almost stiff peaks, about 5
minutes.

Using a rubber spatula, fold the cream cheese mixture into the beaten
whites in 3 additions, until well combined. Pour the batter into the prepared
springform pan.

Bake the cheesecake for 75 minutes, or until it is just starting to brown and
is set but still jiggles slightly like Jell-O when the pan is shaken gently. Turn
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the oven off, open the door, and let the cheesecake cool for 15 minutes in
the oven.

Remove the cake from the oven and cool for at least an hour at room
temperature then refrigerate for at least 6 hours, or, ideally, overnight,
before serving.

Line the springform pan with a


Whip egg whites with powdered parchment-paper collar before
sugar into shiny, almost stiff filling with cheesecake batter.
peaks. It will take about 5 Let the pan rest on a moist
minutes. kitchen towel to keep the bottom
insulated.

Baked cheesecake, after an Light, creamy Japanese


initial cooling period in the oven, Cheesecake unmolded and
slowly coming to room transferred to a serving plate.
temperature.
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First slice of the rich, delicate Japanese Cheesecake.


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lemon yogurt cannoli cake


makes one 9-by-13-inch cake

This moist cake has all the flavors of our favorite


cannoli, from Nick’s Pizza in Forest Hills, NY. Theirs
is a delicate cookie shell wrapped around sweetened
mascarpone cheese, garnished with toasted
pistachios. We add a hint of lemon zest to the cake
batter and use the juice in the frosting. Boyajian
makes a wonderful lemon oil that we use to bump up
the lemon flavor in the cake (see Sources, here; you
can substitute lemon extract if necessary). In season,
we take advantage of aromatic Meyer lemons, but
this is almost as good with a regular lemon. Then we
slather the cake with a lightly sweetened mascarpone
cheese frosting and top it with roasted pistachios.
The trick with mascarpone frosting is to use a simple
syrup made with milk. That allows us to thin and
sweeten the rich cheese without diluting its flavor
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and it avoids the chance of it curdling from being


overbeaten. The flavors are bright, and the cake is
moist, with a creamy, crunchy frosting.
lemon yogurt cake
1¾ cups / 225 grams Gluten-Free Flour Blend (What IiF Flour 3.0,
here, Batch-3 Flour, here, or Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend, here)
1 cup / 200 grams sugar
2 teaspoons / 12 grams baking powder
½ teaspoon / 3 grams fine sea salt
¼ teaspoon / 0.5 gram grated nutmeg
¼ teaspoon / 0.5 gram ground cinnamon
1½ cups / 340 grams plain yogurt, room temperature
½ cup / 112.5 grams peanut oil
2 large eggs, at room temperature
Grated zest of 1 lemon, preferably a Meyer lemon
¼ teaspoon / 1 gram lemon oil or extract

mascarpone frosting
½ cup / 120 grams whole milk
½ cup / 100 grams sugar
¼ teaspoon / 1.5 grams fine sea salt
1 teaspoon / 4 grams vanilla paste or pure vanilla extract
2 cups / 450 grams mascarpone
Juice of 1 lemon, preferably a Meyer lemon
1 cup / 130 grams salted roasted pistachios

Preheat the oven to 350°F. (180°C.). Spray a 9-by-13-inch baking pan with
nonstick cooking spray.
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To make the cake, whisk together the flour, sugar, baking powder, salt,
nutmeg, and cinnamon in a medium bowl.

Put the yogurt, peanut oil, eggs, lemon zest, and lemon oil in another
medium bowl and whisk together. Pour the wet mixture into the flour and
stir until just combined.

Pour the batter into the prepared pan and tap it on the counter a few times to
spread the batter evenly. Bake for 25 minutes, or until a cake tester inserted
in the center comes out clean and the cake is just beginning to pull away
from the sides of the pan; the internal temperature should be 190° to 195°F.
(88° to 91°C.). Let the cake cool completely in the pan on a rack.

To make the frosting, put the milk, sugar, salt, and vanilla paste into a
medium saucepan, bring to a simmer over medium heat, whisking to
dissolve the sugar, and cook for 1 minute. Remove from the heat, pour the
milk into a bowl set over and ice bath and stir occasionally until cold.

When the milk is cold, put the mascarpone in a medium bowl and whisk in
the milk mixture until smooth. Stir in the lemon juice.

Spread the frosting evenly over the top of the cooled cake. Put the
pistachios into a food processor and pulse them 15 times to roughly chop
them, then sprinkle the pistachios evenly over the cake.

To serve, slice into 24 rectangles. Getting the first piece out can be a little
tricky; a pie trowel or offset spatula is helpful here, then the rest are easy.

This simple syrup, made with Lemon yogurt cake batter just
milk, is the perfect base for the poured into the baking dish and
mascarpone frosting, sweetening ready for the oven.
the cheese and preventing the
frosting from breaking.
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Baked lemon yogurt cake fresh


from the oven, flecked with Lemon yogurt cake smothered in
lemon zest and pulling away mascarpone frosting.
from the sides of the pan.
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Lemon Yogurt Cannoli Cake finished with crunchy chopped roasted


pistachios.
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Sliced Lemon Yogurt Cannoli Cake lifts easily out of the baking dish no
matter where you slice it.
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CHAPTER 9

Microwave Sweet Rice Cakes


Microwave Chocolate Sponge Cakes
Individual Gingerbread Cakes
Coconut Cannelés
Double-Chocolate Brownies
Peanut Butter Blondies
Ginger Madeleines
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microwave sweet rice cakes


makes 12 small cakes

Mochi are classic Japanese treat, enjoyed by


Japanese people everywhere and always served to
celebrate the New Year. It’s considered good luck to
eat mochi at the first meal on New Year’s Day.
Traditional mochi are chewy rice cakes that can be
sweet or savory. They are made of steamed glutinous
rice that is pounded into soft, sticky mass and
wrapped around various fillings. Somehow their
texture never really appealed to Alex, and as we
started working with glutinous rice flour, he wanted
to make a nontraditional alternative. These sweet
rice cakes are light and airy, totally different from
mochi. They emphasize the delicate flavor of the
sweet rice accented by the brown butter, and are
undeniably fun to eat.
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Like their counterparts, they can be served with


sweet or savory accompaniments depending on your
taste. We like these with grilled shrimp and
Homemade Hoisin Sauce (here) or, as dessert, with
fresh berries and Sweet-and-Spicy Ginger Cream Ice
Cream (here).
8 tablespoons / 4 ounces / 113 grams unsalted butter
1 large egg
½ cup + 3 tablespoons / 175 grams whole milk
½ cup / 100 grams sugar
50 grams glutinous rice flour (sweet rice flour)
¼ cup + ¾ teaspoon / 18 grams powdered egg whites
½ teaspoon / 1.5 grams fine sea salt

Special Equipment: 1-quart whipped cream dispenser; 12 unwaxed 10-


ounce paper cups

Melt the butter in a small saucepan over medium heat, then continue to
cook until the butter stops bubbling and popping, stirring it to prevent the
milk solids from sticking and burning. When the milk solids are a light
golden brown, remove the pan from the heat and let the butter cool.

Put the egg, milk, and sugar in a blender, turn the blender on low, and
gradually increase the speed to medium-high. When the mixture is smooth
and fluid, sprinkle in the rice flour, powdered egg whites, and salt and blend
for 30 seconds, or until the egg whites and rice flour are fully incorporated
and the mixture is smooth again. Reduce speed to low, pour in the warm
brown butter and the milk solids, and blend for 30 seconds, or until the
butter is absorbed.

Pour half the mixture into a 1-quart whipped cream dispenser and put the
lid on. Charge the canister with two N2O charges, shaking vigorously after
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each one to disperse the gas and allow it to be absorbed by the batter. The
batter should feel and sound fluid in the canister.

Prepare 12 unwaxed 10-ounce paper cups for microwaving the cakes: Turn
the cups over and use a paring knife to make a ½-inch slit in the bottom and
three ½-inch slits around the sides of each cup. Turn the cups back over.

Shake the whipped cream canister and fill one cup one-third full. (The
batter it will be thick enough that it won’t spill out through the cuts in the
cup.) Put the cup into the microwave and cook on high for 30 seconds. The
batter will rise and solidify into a soft mass resembling a sea sponge.
Immediately remove the cake from the microwave and invert the cup onto a
cutting board or countertop. Let the cake cool upside down while you cook
the remaining cakes. Refill and recharge the canister as necessary.

When the cakes are completely cool, run a paring knife around the inside of
each cup to loosen the cake, invert the cup, gently shake to remove the cake
from the cup, and serve. Alternatively, the cakes can be refrigerated in the
inverted cups overnight before being unmolded. The refrigerated cakes will
stay moist and tender and keep their light, airy texture and shape. Pull them
out about 30 minutes before you want to serve them so they come to room
temperature; you can eat them cold, but the texture and flavor are best at
room temperature.

Microwave Sweet Rice Cake, Fill the paper cups with aerated
extra batter in blender, first batter for Microwave Sweet Rice
batch charged in a whipped- Cakes.
cream canister, dispensed into
one cup, and “micro-baked” into
a light sponge cake.
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Microwave the batter-filled cups Immediately remove and invert


for 30 seconds. the cups.

Allow the cakes to cool while still inverted, then run a paring knife
around the edge and gently shake each cake out of its cup.
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A full tray of light, fluffy Microwave Sweet Rice Cakes.


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microwave chocolate sponge cakes


makes 9 small cakes

“Daddy, are you making sweet cakes?” This is the


question our daughter Amaya asks when she sees
Alex pull out the whipped cream canister. She adores
these light, airy cakes. He’s even taken the show on
the road and made the cakes with her preschool
class. The kids helped mix everything together and
then each made his or her own cake. A good time was
had by all. When the kids aren’t around we add a
splash of bourbon. These delicate chocolate cakes
are the opposite of the Triple-Chocolate Cake (here).
Their flavor is chocolate at its most ethereal, dancing
across your palate and melting on your tongue.
Using a whipped cream canister and the microwave
in harmony, with the powdered egg whites in the
batter, allows us to steam these cakes instantly—the
egg whites add structure, the nitrous oxide
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incorporates bubbles into the batter, and the


microwave uses quick heat to set the cakes.
7 ounces / 200 grams bittersweet chocolate, chopped
8 tablespoons / 4 ounces / 113 grams unsalted butter, sliced
¾ cup / 195 grams whole milk
3 large eggs
½ cup (packed) / 106 grams dark brown sugar
2 tablespoons / 28 grams bourbon or dark rum (optional)
¾ teaspoon / 3 grams vanilla paste or pure vanilla extract
½ cup + 1 tablespoon / 75 grams Gluten-Free Flour Blend (What IiF
Flour 3.0, here, Batch-3 Flour, here, or Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend,
here)
¼ cup / 30 grams natural cocoa powder
5½ tablespoons / 24 grams powdered egg whites
½ teaspoon / 3 grams fine sea salt

Special Equipment: 1-quart whipped cream dispenser; 9 unwaxed 10-


ounce paper cups

Put the chocolate and butter in a microwave-safe bowl and microwave for
30 seconds. Stir them together and microwave for 30 seconds more.
Continue to microwave and stir until the chocolate and butter are melted
and smooth, about 2 minutes total.

Put the milk, eggs, brown sugar, bourbon, if using, and vanilla paste in a
blender, turn it turn on to medium speed, and blend until the mixture is
smooth, about 15 seconds. Add the flour, cocoa, powdered egg whites, and
salt, increase the speed to high, and blend for 15 seconds, or until the
mixture is smooth. Turn the speed down to medium-high, pour in the
chocolate mixture, and blend for 15 seconds.

Pour half of the batter into a 1-quart whipped cream dispenser and put the
lid on. Charge the canister with two N2O charges, shaking vigorously after
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adding each one to disperse the gas and allow it to be absorbed by the
batter. The batter should feel and sound fluid in the canister.

Prepare 9 unwaxed 10-ounce paper cups for microwaving the cakes: Turn
the cups over and use a paring knife to put a ½-inch slit in the bottom and
three ½-inch slits around the sides of each cup. Turn the cups back over.

Shake the whipped cream canister and fill one cup one-third full. (The
batter will be thick enough that it won’t spill out through the cuts in the
cup.) Put the cup into the microwave and cook on high for 30 seconds. The
batter will rise and solidify into a soft mass resembling a sea sponge.
Immediately remove the cake from the microwave and invert the cup onto a
cutting board or countertop. Let the cake cool upside down while you cook
the remaining cakes. Refill and recharge the canister as necessary.

When the chocolate cakes are completely cool, run a paring knife around
the inside of each cup to loosen the cake, invert the cup, gently shake to
remove the cake from the cup, and serve. Alternatively, the cakes can be
refrigerated in the inverted cups overnight before being unmolded. The
refrigerated cakes will stay moist and tender and keep their light, airy shape
and texture. Pull them out about 30 minutes before you want to serve them
so they come to room temperature; you can eat them cold, but the texture
and flavor are best at room temperature.
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individual gingerbread cakes


makes 12 small cakes

A great gingerbread is normally a damp cake


destined to be eaten with knife and fork. It is moist
and rich and warmly spiced, much like our Triple-
Ginger Cake (here). By aerating the batter and
lightening the cake, we found that the individual
flavors of the spices come through more clearly. The
cakes can be unmolded and eaten out of hand, hand
torn like cotton candy. They have all the flavor and
moisture of the original without any need for plates.
½ cup / 130 grams whole milk
5 tablespoons / 106 grams dark molasses
½ cup / 100 grams sugar
4 large eggs
2 large egg whites
1 tablespoon / 14 grams dark rum
¾ teaspoon / 3 grams vanilla paste or pure vanilla extract
¾ cup / 100 grams Gluten-Free Flour Blend (What IiF Flour 3.0, here,
Batch-3 Flour, here, or Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend, here)
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½ cup / 35 grams powdered egg whites


¼ cup / 30 grams natural cocoa powder
2½ teaspoons / 5 grams ground ginger
½ teaspoon / 3 grams fine sea salt
⅛ teaspoon / 0.25 gram cayenne
⅛ teaspoon / 0.25 gram ground cinnamon
⅛ teaspoon / 0.25 gram ground cloves
⅛ teaspoon / 0.25 gram ground cardamom
⅛ teaspoon / 0.25 gram grated nutmeg
6½ tablespoons / 3¼ ounces / 90 grams unsalted butter, melted

Special Equipment: 1-quart whipped cream dispenser; 12 unwaxed 10-


ounce paper cups

Put the milk, molasses, sugar, eggs, egg whites, rum, and vanilla paste in a
blender, turn it on to medium, and blend the mixture until smooth, about 15
seconds. Add the flour, powdered egg whites, cocoa powder, ginger, salt,
cayenne, cinnamon, cloves, cardamom, and nutmeg, increase the speed to
high, and blend for 15 seconds, or until the mixture is smooth. Turn the
speed down to low and pour in the melted butter, then blend for 15 seconds.

Pour half the mixture into a 1-quart whipped cream dispenser and put the
lid on. Charge the canister with two N2O charges, shaking vigorously after
each one to disperse the gas and allow it to be absorbed by the batter. The
batter should feel and sound fluid in the canister.

Prepare 12 unwaxed 10-ounce paper cups for microwaving the cakes: Turn
the cups over and use a paring knife to make a ½-inch slit in the bottom and
three ½-inch slits around the sides of each cup. Turn the cups back over.
Shake the whipped cream canister and fill one cup one-third full. (The
batter will be thick enough that it won’t spill out through the cuts in the
cup.) Put the cup into the microwave and cook on high for 30 seconds. The
batter will rise and solidify into a soft mass resembling a sea sponge.
Immediately remove the gingerbread from the microwave and invert the
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cup onto a cutting board or countertop. Let it cool upside down while you
cook the remaining gingerbread. Refill and recharge the canister as
necessary.

When all of the cakes are completely cool, run a paring knife around the
inside of each cup to loosen the cake, invert the cup, gently shake to remove
the cake from the cup, and serve. Alternatively, the gingerbread can be
refrigerated in the inverted cups overnight before being unmolded. The
refrigerated gingerbread will stay moist and tender and keep its light, airy
texture and shape. Pull the cakes out about 30 minutes before you want to
serve them so they come to room temperature; you can eat them cold, but
the texture and flavor are best at room temperature.
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coconut cannelés
makes 10 to 12 cannelés

Cannelés are small French cakes that originated in


Bordeaux. They are baked in special copper molds
that are brushed with beeswax and they have a crisp,
almost chewy exterior that gives way to a soft,
custardy interior. We’re not afraid to mess with
tradition, and we’ve used toasted coconut and
coconut milk to flavor the cannelés to create
something just as delicious as the original but with a
twist. There’s nothing else quite like these.
The batter is similar to a crepe batter and the
preparation hinges on a few key steps. One is a
gentle mixing process so that the batter isn’t aerated.
The second is letting the batter rest for at least 24
hours so that the flour is completely hydrated before
baking. That’s what creates the moist, tender interior.
This has the added benefit of giving you a batter that
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can be baked to order whenever you want to make a


batch, so you can serve the cannelés at their peak. If
you are entertaining you can have the batter and
molds ready to go and bake them once your guests
arrive.
The final defining step is coating the molds with a
very thin layer of beeswax and butter. If the layer is
too thick, it will stick to your teeth and leave a
lingering aftertaste that will undermine the delicate
flavor of the cake. For this reason we use old-
fashioned individual cannelé molds, as opposed to
modern silicone pans, because you can empty them
quickly when coating them, ensuring a perfectly thin
layer. The trick is making sure that both the beeswax
mixture and your molds are hot when you bring them
together. Tongs are very helpful, as they make it much
easier to handle the hot molds.
Don’t let the number of steps here intimidate you.
Cannelés are not that hard to make and the finished
cakes are well worth the relatively small amount of
effort you put into them.
cannelés
1¾ cups / 100 grams unsweetened coconut flakes
1⅔ cups / 400 grams coconut milk
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½ cup / 130 grams whole milk, or as needed


½ cup / 130 grams maple syrup
2 tablespoons / 1 ounce / 28 grams unsalted butter
2 large eggs
2 large egg yolks
¾ cup / 100 grams Gluten-Free Flour Blend (What IiF Flour 3.0, here,
Batch-3 Flour, here, or Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend, here)
¼ cup / 50 grams sugar
½ teaspoon / 3 grams fine sea salt
¼ cup / 60 grams orange juice

8 tablespoons / 4 ounces / 113 grams food-grade beeswax


4 ounces / 113 grams unsalted butter

Special Equipment: 12 cannelé molds

Preheat the oven to 250°F. (120°C.).

Spread the coconut flakes out on a baking sheet and bake for 30 minutes, or
until they turn a deep golden brown. Remove from the oven and transfer to
a medium saucepan.

Add the coconut milk and whole milk and bring to a simmer over medium
heat. Remove from the heat, cover, and let steep for 30 minutes.

Strain the milk through a fine-mesh sieve; discard the solids. Measure out 2
cups/500 grams of the strained milk. Add a little more whole milk if there is
not quite enough. Put the strained milk, syrup, and butter in a medium
saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Remove from the heat
and transfer to a blender.

Turn the blender on low and add the eggs and egg yolks. Blend until
smooth. Stop the blender and add the flour, sugar, and salt. Turn the blender
back on low and blend until smooth. Stop the blender and add the orange
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juice. Blend on low until fully combined. Transfer the batter to a container
and refrigerate, uncovered, until completely cool, about an hour.

Cover the container of batter and refrigerate for at least 24 hours and up to 3
days, so the batter can hydrate and the flavors have time to develop.

Preheat the oven to 250°F. (121°C.). Line a baking sheet with parchment
paper and put the cannelé molds on the pan. Put the pan in the oven.

Put the beeswax and butter in a quart-sized mason jar or heatproof bowl in a
medium saucepan with 2 inches of water in the bottom set over low heat
and stir occasionally until the beeswax and butter have melted and come
together. (The beeswax is extremely hard and rather than trying to chop it,
we put it in the pot as a chunk and melt it slowly.) Pull the pan with the
molds out of the oven and set it on the stovetop beside the saucepan. Use a
1-ounce ladle to spoon the beeswax mixture into the molds: Pick up one
mold with tongs, fill it to the top, and then immediately turn it over and
dump the excess wax back into the pan; shake the mold gently and let as
much wax run out as possible—you want just a very thin coat of beeswax
lining the mold—and then invert the mold onto the parchment paper–lined
pan. Repeat with the remaining molds. Put the molds in the refrigerator to
chill for at least 1 hour before baking. (Coated molds can be covered and
kept in the refrigerator for up to a week.) Put the pan with the extra beeswax
in the freezer. Once the wax is cold you can peel it off the paper and store it
in an airtight container to use again.

Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 475°F.
(245°C.). Line a baking sheet with a silicone liner or parchment paper.

Take the cannelé batter out of the refrigerator. It will have separated—use a
small rubber spatula to stir it a few times to bring it back into a smooth
batter. Pour the batter into the prepared molds, filling them three-quarters of
the way to the top. Put them on the lined baking sheet, leaving about 2
inches of space between them. Put them on the lower oven rack, turn the
temperature down to 400°F. (200°C.), and bake for 45 minutes. Rotate the
pan and bake for an additional 45 minutes, or until the cannelés are a deep,
dark golden brown. Use tongs to immediately invert each mold and unmold
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the cake, then gently transfer them to a rack to cool. Cannelés are best eaten
the day they are made.

The fully blended Coconut Coating the inside of the cannelé


Cannelé batter (here), ready to molds with the molten beeswax
hydrate overnight. and butter mixture.

The frozen beeswax and butter– Fully baked Coconut Cannelés,


lined cannelé molds, ready to be ready to be unmolded.
filled with batter.
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Caramelized Coconut Cannelés cooling on a rack.


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A look inside the moist Coconut Cannelés.


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double-chocolate brownies
makes 9 to 16 brownies

These moist, chewy brownies use a blend of cocoa


and chocolate to get their deep chocolate flavor. As
with most brownie recipes, this is quickly pulled
together. We love oat flour for brownies because it
adds a great chewy texture. You can eat these straight
from the pan, or you can chill them for a slightly
fudgier texture. Either way, they will satisfy any
chocolate cravings you may encounter.
6 ounces / 170 grams bittersweet chocolate, chopped
12 tablespoons / 6 ounces / 170 grams unsalted butter, sliced
1 cup / 130 grams oat flour
2 cups / 400 grams sugar
½ cup / 60 grams natural cocoa powder
1 teaspoon / 6 grams fine sea salt
6 large eggs (cold)

Preheat the oven to 350°F. (175°C.). Butter an 8-inch square baking pan.
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Put the chocolate and butter in a microwave-safe bowl and microwave for
30 seconds. Stir and microwave for 30 seconds more. Continue to
microwave and stir until melted and smooth, about 2 minutes total. Let
cool.

Put the oat flour, sugar, cocoa powder, and salt in a medium bowl and whisk
to blend. Add the melted chocolate and butter and whisk to blend. Add the
eggs one at a time, stirring each one in well with a rubber spatula. Once all
of the eggs have been incorporated, give the batter another 20 to 25 strokes
to be sure that everything is well blended.

Pour the batter into the prepared pan and use a small offset spatula to spread
it evenly. Bake for 40 to 45 minutes, until the brownies are just set in the
center; they should feel firm when gently pressed with a finger and there
will be no jiggle if you shake the pan. Let cool completely in the pan on a
rack before cutting.
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Double-Chocolate Brownie topped with vanilla ice cream.


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You need a sharp knife to cut though these moist, sticky Double-
Chocolate Brownies (here). A few crumbs of rich cake may cling to the
bottom of the baking dish.
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peanut butter blondies


makes 9 to 16 blondies

“Did you put chocolate chips in those?” was the


question from Alex when I was sliding these into the
oven. “Nope.” “But I thought all blondies had chips
or something in them.” “Maybe the next round. This
time I made them straight.” About an hour after
devouring half the pan, he said, “Never mind. These
don’t need a thing.”
Blondies are perfect for people who don’t love
chocolate—and even for those who do. Much of their
flavor comes from brown sugar, though we added
peanut butter to this version. The process of
creaming the sugar in the beginning is what creates
that crisp crackly crust on top. These blondies are
moist and chewy, dense but not heavy, and the flavor
of peanut butter permeates each bite.
8 tablespoons / 4 ounces / 113 grams unsalted butter, at room
temperature
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1¼ cups (packed) / 265 grams dark brown sugar


½ teaspoon / 3 grams fine sea salt
2 large eggs, at room temperature
1 teaspoon / 4 grams vanilla paste or pure vanilla extract
1 cup / 130 grams Gluten-Free Flour Blend (What IiF Flour 3.0, here,
Batch-3 Flour, here, or Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend, here)
¼ cup / 68 grams creamy peanut butter

Preheat the oven to 350°F. (180°C.). Butter an 8-inch square baking pan.

Put the butter, brown sugar, and salt in the bowl of stand mixer fitted with
the paddle attachment (or use a hand mixer) and mix on low until light and
creamy, 2 to 3 minutes. Beat in the eggs one at a time, making sure the first
egg is fully incorporated before adding the second one. Mix in the vanilla.
Add all of the flour and mix on low until fully blended, about 20 seconds.
Add the peanut butter and let the paddle rotate a couple of times to swirl it
into the batter without mixing it in completely; there should still be some
streaks of peanut butter.

Pour the batter into the prepared pan and use a small offset spatula to spread
it evenly into the corners. Bake for 35 minutes or until the blondie is just
set: it won’t jiggle when you shake the pan, and the top will be shiny and
slightly crackled. Let cool completely before cutting.
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Peanut Butter Blondies fresh from the oven with their shiny, golden-
brown, crackling crust.
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Once cooled, chewy Peanut Butter Blondies slice cleanly and are easily
lifted from the pan.
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ginger madeleines
makes about 3 dozen madeleines

Madeleines are French tea cakes. You can recognize


them immediately because of their scalloped shape.
Their texture is like a sponge cake, and they are
tender and sweet. Here we’ve given them a little
spice to liven them up. Fresh ginger has a pungent
kick that softens and becomes rounded and warming
when partnered with cane syrup and butter.
Cane syrup is a traditional American sweetener
made in the South by extracting the juice from sugar
cane stalks and boiling it down into syrup. It has a
clean sweet flavor with a touch of astringency and a
hint of burnt caramel. It can be substituted for
molasses or maple syrup in recipes. There are few
artisinal cane syrup companies, like Poirier’s and
Fain’s; the most readily available brand is Steen’s.
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You can make the Madeleine batter ahead of time and


bake the madeleines off à la minute. Eaten warm,
they are a special treat, especially when paired with
hot tea or cider.
1 cup / 200 grams sugar
4 ounces / 113 grams fresh ginger, peeled and sliced
1 teaspoon / 6 grams fine sea salt
1 cup / 315 grams cane syrup
1 teaspoon / 4 grams vanilla paste or pure vanilla extract
16 tablespoons (2 sticks) / 8 ounces / 225 grams cold unsalted butter,
diced
2 large eggs
3½ cups / 455 grams Gluten-Free Flour Blend (What IiF Flour 3.0,
here, Batch-3 Flour, here, or Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend, here)
1 teaspoon / 5 grams baking soda
Softened butter for the molds

Special Equipment: Madeleine pan

Put the sugar, ginger, and salt in a food processor and pulse to a fine paste.
Add the cane syrup and vanilla and pulse 3 or 4 times, or until absorbed into
the sugar mixture. Scrape down the bowl with a rubber spatula as needed.
Add the butter and pulse 5 or 6 times; the mixture will still be somewhat
chunky. Add the eggs one at a time, pulsing after each addition until fully
incorporated. Add the flour and baking soda and pulse until a uniform
dough forms. Scrape into a medium bowl or container, cover, and chill for
at least 3 hours, or overnight.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. (177°C.). Use a pastry brush to generously butter
a Madeleine pan.
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Portion the dough into rounded tablespoons and press into the prepared
molds. Bake for 10 minutes, or until the cakes are just set. Let cool for 5
minutes, then pop the cakes out onto a rack to cool completely. If you want
to bake another batch (or two) now, cool and clean the pan and butter it
again before using.
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These Ginger Madeleines have a clean, sweet flavor with a hint of


caramel that pairs perfectly with hot tea or cider.
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CHAPTER 10

Tres Leches Cake


Triple-Chocolate Cake
Coconut Cake
Strawberries-and-Cream Cake
Carrot Cake
Boston Cream Pie
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tres leches cake


makes one 9-inch layer cake

This is our twist on the classic tres leches cake. It is


usually a one-layer cake made with three milks:
evaporated milk, sweetened condensed milk, and
heavy cream. Not surprisingly, we were unable to
keep from playing with the idea of three milks, and so
this recipe uses three actual milks: almond milk,
coconut milk, and condensed milk to soak the cake,
along with heavy cream for the frosting. We use a
half sheet pan for the cake and then cut out the
layers, a tip we learned from Christina Tosi’s book,
Momofuku Milk Bar: you can fit together pieces of
cake if you build it in a mold, allowing you to get
three round layers out of one sheet cake. You can use
a springform pan to build it—no need to buy a
special cake ring. This makes for a tall, beautiful
cake that tastes as good as it looks.
vanilla cake
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4 large eggs, at room temperature


2 cups / 400 grams sugar
2¾ cups / 357.5 grams Gluten-Free Flour Blend (What IiF Flour 3.0,
here, Batch-3 Flour, here, or Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend, here)
1 cup / 260 grams whole milk, at room temperature
¾ cup / 170 grams peanut or vegetable oil
2½ teaspoons / 7.5 grams baking powder
¾ teaspoon / 4.5 grams fine sea salt
1 teaspoon / 4 grams vanilla paste or pure vanilla extract

soaking liquid
1 cup / 230 grams almond milk
1 cup / 240 grams unsweetened coconut milk
1 cup / 320 grams sweetened condensed milk
½ cup / 150 grams Bourbon Caramel Sauce (here)
3/8 teaspoon / 2.25 grams fine sea salt

whipped cream
1¼ cups + 2 tablespoons / 330 grams heavy cream
½ cup / 60 grams powdered sugar
¼ teaspoon / 1.5 grams fine sea salt

Preheat the oven to 325°F. (165°C.). Lightly grease a 13-by-18-inch baking


sheet with neutral oil or nonstick cooking spray and line with parchment
paper.

To make the cake, put the eggs and sugar in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted
with the whisk attachment (or use a hand mixer) and beat on medium-high
until light and lemon colored, about 5 minutes. Switch to the paddle
attachment, add the flour, whole milk, oil, baking powder, salt, and vanilla,
and mix on low until a smooth, uniform batter forms, 2 to 3 minutes.
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Pour the batter into the prepared pan cake and spread it evenly. Bake for 20
to 25 minutes, until the cake just begins to pull away from the sides of the
pan; the internal temperature should be 190° to 195°F. (88° to 91°C.).

Use a toothpick to poke holes all over the surface of the cake. Invert the
cake onto a large cutting board. Remove the parchment paper. Use the
bottom of a 9-inch springform pan and a paring knife to trace 2 full circles
and 2 semicircles then cut them out. The remaining pieces can be trimmed
to fit in the bottom of the springform pan. Assemble the pan, cut a
parchment circle the size of the pan bottom, and put it in the pan.

To make the soaking liquid, whisk together the almond milk, coconut milk,
sweetened condensed milk, caramel sauce, and salt in a medium bowl. Use
a pastry brush to brush the mixture over the tops and bottoms of all the cake
rounds and pieces. Arrange the semicircles and trimmed pieces of cake in
one layer in the bottom of the springform pan. Then pour about one-third of
the remaining soaking liquid over the cake so it covers the layer. Let the
liquid soak into the cake.

Meanwhile, make the whipped cream: Put the cream, powdered sugar, and
salt in the bowl of the stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment (or use a
hand mixer) and whip on medium-high until the cream just holds stiff
peaks.

To assemble the cake, put half of the whipped cream in the center of the
bottom cake layer and spread it out, leaving a ½-inch circumference of cake
bare around the edges. Lay the second layer of cake on top of the cream,
pressing gently so it lies flat. Spoon half of the remaining soaking liquid
over the layer and let the liquid soak in for 5 minutes.

Spread the remaining whipped cream over the cake, leaving a ½-inch
circumference of cake bare around the edges. Lay the remaining cake layer
on top of the cream, pressing gently so it lies flat. Use a chopstick to poke
about 50 holes straight down through the cake. Slowly pour the remaining
soaking liquid over the top of the cake. This may need to be done in stages
as it slowly sinks into the cake through the holes. When the liquid has all
been absorbed, cover the edge loosely with plastic wrap and refrigerate until
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it has firmed up and the top layer is set, at least 2 hours, or for up to 24
hours.

Remove the cake from the refrigerator. Remove the springform ring from
the cake. Use a butane torch to brûlée the top of the cake: the goal is a light,
even caramelization, not charring the surface. Serve immediately, or return
to the refrigerator for up to 6 hours.

For the best results, let the refrigerated cake sit at room temperature for at
least 30 minutes before serving.

Use the bottom of a springform


You can maximize your yield by
cake pan to trace circles into the
using whole and half circles of
baked vanilla cake layer with a
cake.
knife.

Fit the bottom layer of the cake Allow the bottom layer to soak
into a springform cake pan, for 5 minutes. A pastry brush
using the leftover pieces to fill in will help spread the soaking
the gaps between the semicircles. liquid over the surface of the
cake.
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Coat the top layer of the Tres Leches Cake with the remainder of the
soaking liquid. The parchment paper below will catch any overflow.
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After using a butane torch to brûlée the top of the Tres Leches Cake.

bourbon caramel sauce


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makes about 5 cups


We love caramel sauce. Yes you can buy it, but we
prefer to make our own. We store it Mason jars in the
pantry, so we have some whenever we want it—and it
makes a wonderful gift. Distilled alcohol is
considered gluten-free as long as there are no other
flavorings added after distilling. Bourbon is our
favorite alcohol here, but you can substitute any fruit
juice, cider, or clear fruit-flavored liqueur that suits
your fancy. The caramel has a tendency to separate
in the jar, but all you have to do is give it quick stir
and everything will come back together. It makes a
fabulous dipping sauce for warm Doughnuts (here),
or drizzle it over the top of a Banana Butterfinger
Cream Pie (here). It adds depth of flavor to the Tres
Leches Cake, and we’re sure you can think of many
more ways to enjoy it.
3¾ cups / 750 grams sugar
⅔ cup / 150 grams water
2½ tablespoons / 50 grams corn syrup
1½ cups + 1 tablespoon / 375 grams heavy cream
8 tablespoons / 4 ounces / 113 grams unsalted butter, sliced
5 teaspoons / 20 grams vanilla paste or pure vanilla extract
1½ teaspoon / 9 grams fine sea salt
½ cup + 1 tablespoon / 125 grams bourbon (see headnote)
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Put the sugar, water, and corn syrup in a medium heavy-bottomed pot and
stir the mixture together until it resembles wet sand. Put the pot over
medium-high heat, put a lid on it, and cook the mixture for 10 minutes. (Let
it cook undisturbed—stirring increases the likelihood of crystallization.)
Remove the lid and take a look at the sugar syrup. It should be clear and
boiling. Put the lid back on and cook for 5 more minutes.

Remove the lid. The sugar should be just beginning to caramelize. Continue
to cook, swirling the pot occasionally to blend the caramelizing sugar into
the rest of the syrup until the caramel is dark amber. We don’t use a candy
thermometer, because it increases the possibility of crystallization, but if
you prefer to use one, a dark caramel occurs from 360° to 370°F. (182° to
188°C.).

Remove the pot from the heat and slowly and carefully pour the heavy
cream into the hot caramel; it will boil and spurt, and there will be lots of
steam. The caramel may seize and solidify—if so, just set it over low heat
and stir until the hardened caramel melts into the sauce. Add the butter,
vanilla paste, and salt and stir until the butter is melted. Stir in the bourbon;
it will sputter and boil. Let the caramel sauce cool. Pour the caramel sauce
into jars, label, and share with only those you love.
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triple-chocolate cake
makes one 9-inch layer cake

This is a chocolate cake for serious chocolate lovers.


It’s tall and beautiful, and it makes a great birthday
cake—it can be decorated with sprinkles or nuts if
you like. Just one bite will tell the recipient how much
you love him or her.
It may seem like a big batch of frosting, but Alex’s pet
peeve is skimpy frosting between cake layers. That
said, our guests never leave anything on their plates,
so the recipe must make the right amount. Use your
favorite brand of chocolate and hang the expense,
because this makes a cake that is better than any
store-bought cake you’ve ever tasted.
This recipe makes more bourbon chocolate syrup
than you will need to soak the cake; the extra syrup
can be used to make chocolate milk or hot chocolate
or to top ice cream sundaes. It’s useful stuff to have in
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the fridge and so much better than mass-produced


syrup.
chocolate cake
8 tablespoons / 4 ounces / 113 grams unsalted butter, sliced
4 ounces / 113 grams bittersweet chocolate, chopped
2 cups / 400 grams sugar
2¼ cups / 292.5 grams Gluten-Free Flour Blend (What IiF Flour 3.0,
here, Batch-3 Flour, here, or Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend, here)
¾ cup + 2 tablespoons / 210 grams natural cocoa powder
2 teaspoons / 12 grams baking powder
1 teaspoon / 6 grams fine sea salt
½ teaspoon / 2.5 grams baking soda
1¼ cups / 300 grams buttermilk, at room temperature
½ cup / 113 grams peanut or vegetable oil
4 large eggs, at room temperature

bourbon chocolate syrup


1¾ cups + 1 tablespoon / 375 grams sugar
1 cup / 225 grams water
½ cup + 1 teaspoon / 125 grams natural cocoa powder
¼ teaspoon / 1.5 grams fine sea salt
Scant tablespoon / 15 grams light corn syrup
1 tablespoon / 16 grams vanilla paste or pure vanilla extract
6 tablespoons / 85 grams bourbon, rum, or heavy cream

chocolate frosting
2 cups / 480 grams heavy cream
16 tablespoons (2 sticks) / 8 ounces / 225 grams unsalted butter, sliced
⅔ cup / 132 grams sugar
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½ cup / 113 grams water


¼ cup / 80 grams light corn syrup
½ teaspoon / 3 grams fine sea salt
2 pounds / 910 grams bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped

Position the racks in the middle and upper third of the oven and preheat the
oven to 350°F. (180°C.). Butter two 9-inch round cake pans and line the
bottoms with ungreased parchment paper circles.

To make the cake, put the butter and chocolate in a small saucepan and heat
over medium heat, stirring, until the butter and chocolate melts. Set aside to
cool.

Put the sugar, flour, cocoa powder, baking powder, salt, and baking soda in
a medium bowl and whisk to blend. Add the buttermilk, oil, and eggs and
whisk together. Add the cooled butter mixture and whisk to blend, then
whisk vigorously for 1 minute, or until the batter is smooth and shiny.

Divide the batter equally among the prepared cake pans and use a small
offset spatula to spread it evenly and smooth the tops. Bake for 25 to 30
minutes, until the cake is just beginning to pull away from the sides of the
pans; the internal temperature should be 190° to 195°F. (88° to 91°C.). Cool
in the pans on a rack for 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, make the bourbon chocolate syrup: Put the sugar, water, cocoa,
and salt in a medium saucepan and bring to a boil over medium heat,
stirring constantly with a silicone spatula to keep the cocoa from scorching.
Add the corn syrup and vanilla and stir to blend. Remove from the heat and
stir in the bourbon. Let cool; the syrup will thicken as it cools. (The extra
syrup can be kept in a jar or covered container in the fridge for up to 3
months.)

Set two wire racks, each large enough to hold two cake layers, over two
separate sheet pans. Turn the cakes out of their pans, remove the parchment
paper from the bottom of each layer, and use a serrated knife to split them
in half horizontally. Lay the two halves of one cake layer, split side up, on
one rack and the two halves of the other cake layer, split side up, on the
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second rack. Spoon ¼ cup of warm bourbon chocolate syrup over each
layer, and then use a pastry brush to spread it from edge to edge. Let the
cake layers cool completely and absorb the syrup, about 30 to 45 minutes.
Cover loosely with plastic wrap and refrigerate until you are ready to
assemble the cake.

To make the frosting, put the cream, butter, sugar, water, corn syrup, and
salt in a medium saucepan and bring to a bare simmer, stirring, over
medium heat. Remove from the heat and stir until the butter has completely
melted. Add the chocolate, and whisk until all of the chocolate has melted
and the mixture is glossy and smooth. Transfer to a bowl and refrigerate for
1½ to 2 hours, stirring occasionally, until the frosting is a spreadable
consistency.

To assemble the cake, use the bottom half of one of the cut cakes as your
first layer. Put it on a cardboard cake circle, if you have one, on a large plate
or turntable. Put about ¾ cup of frosting on top of the first layer and use an
offset spatula to spread it evenly, leaving a border of about ¼-inch around
the circumference. Place the second layer on top of the first and spread with
¾ cup of frosting as you did the first layer. If the frosting starts to cool and
stiffen up, use a hair dryer to gently warm it up again, until it spreads easily.
Repeat with the third layer, and then lay the fourth layer on top. Spread
about ¾ cup frosting over the top of the cake, letting it come down the
sides. Clean off your spatula every so often to remove excess crumbs. Don’t
worry about making it look perfect; just coat the cake with frosting. This is
the crumb coat so the important thing is to create a smooth surface and fill
any holes.

Scrape off any excess frosting, rinse your spatula under warm water, and
wipe it dry. Warming it will make it easier to spread the final coat of
frosting. Frost the cake and use any remaining frosting to swirl onto the
cake in pretty patterns, or use to pipe small rosettes around the top edge or
to decorate it however you choose. Refrigerate the cake for at least 30
minutes so the frosting can set.

Bring the cake to room temperature before serving.


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Whisk the frosting until it’s


Cut the cake layers in half and
glossy and smooth, then let it
soak each half with ¼ cup of
cool in the fridge for 1 to 2 hours
warm bourbon chocolate syrup.
until it’s spreadable.

Ribbons of rich chocolate frosting adorn the top of the Triple


Chocolate Cake (here).
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The perfect slice of luscious Triple-Chocolate Cake.


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coconut cake
makes one 9-inch layer cake

Most coconut cakes put the coconut on the outside of


the cake. Our goal was to get as much coconut into
the cake as possible. You may have noticed that we
soak most of the cake layers in the recipes in this
chapter. There are two reasons for this. One, the
liquid adds flavor and that is always a good thing.
Two, it adds moisture to the cake, which makes it
more fun to eat and helps it remain fresh for a little
longer—though if your family is like ours, your cake
will disappear long before it can even think of drying
out. We’ve frosted this cake with milk chocolate
mousse, which adds another dimension of flavor and
balances the coconut. If you prefer dark chocolate,
you can substitute 12 ounces (340 grams) bittersweet
chocolate for the milk. You use a little bit less
because the flavor is stronger and the chocolate firms
up in the mousse more. This is a cake that surprises
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many people, who don’t often think of combining milk


chocolate and coconut. After they taste it, though,
they will never forget.
milk chocolate mousse
6 large egg yolks
½ cup / 115 grams unsweetened coconut milk
⅓ cup / 66 grams sugar
14 ounces / 400 grams high-quality milk chocolate, melted and still
warm
1¼ cups / 300 grams heavy cream
½ cup / 120 grams sour cream
¼ teaspoon / 1.5 grams fine sea salt

coconut cake
3 cups / 390 grams Gluten-Free Flour Blend (What IiF Flour 3.0, here,
Batch-3 Flour, here, or Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend, here)
2 cups / 400 grams sugar
1 cup / 56 grams unsweetened flaked coconut
1 tablespoon / 18 grams baking powder
1 teaspoon / 6 grams fine sea salt
8 tablespoons / 4 ounces / 113 grams unsalted butter, at room
temperature, sliced
½ cup / 113 grams peanut or vegetable oil
4 large eggs, at room temperature
1 cup / 256 grams unsweetened coconut milk, at room temperature
1 teaspoon / 4 grams vanilla paste or pure vanilla extract

soaking liquid
6 tablespoons / 96 grams unsweetened coconut milk
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2 tablespoons / 36 grams Bourbon Caramel Sauce (here)


1 tablespoon / 12.5 grams sugar

4 cups / 224 grams unsweetened flaked dried coconut

To make the milk chocolate mousse, put the egg yolks, coconut milk, and
sugar in a heatproof bowl and set it over a saucepan of gently simmering
water. Cook, whisking constantly (or use a hand mixer), until the mixture
turns light yellow, has approximately tripled in volume, and falls in a ribbon
when you lift the whisk, 10 to 15 minutes.

Transfer the mixture to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk
attachment (or use a hand mixer) and beat on medium-high until cool, about
10 minutes.

Slowly pour the warm melted chocolate into the yolk mixture and beat until
fully incorporated.

Put the heavy cream, sour cream, and salt in a clean bowl and whip to firm
peaks. Fold one-third of the whipped cream into the chocolate mixture,
incorporating it completely, then fold in the remaining whipped cream.
Cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours, or, preferably, overnight.

Preheat the oven 350°F. (180°C.). Butter two 9-inch round cake pans and
line the bottoms with parchment paper circles.

To make the cake, put the flour, sugar, coconut, baking powder, and salt in a
food processor and pulse 4 or 5 times to grind the coconut to a fine powder.
Add the butter, oil, eggs, coconut milk, and vanilla and process until
completely smooth and silky, 1 to 2 minutes.

Divide the batter equally between the prepared cake pans and use a small
offset spatula to spread it evenly and smooth the tops. Bake for 30 to 35
minutes, until the cake is just beginning to pull away from the sides of the
pans; the internal temperature should be 190° to 195°F. (88° to 91°C.). Cool
for 15 minutes in the pans on a rack, then turn the cake layers out onto a
rack, remove the parchment, and let cool completely.
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Once the layers are completely cool, using a serrated knife, split them
horizontally in half. Lay the layers cut side up on two parchment-lined
baking sheets.

To make the soaking liquid, whisk together the coconut milk, caramel
sauce, and sugar in a small bowl until the sugar dissolves. Brush one-
quarter of the soaking liquid onto each cake layer. Cover loosely with
plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 2 hours, and up to 24 hours.

To assemble the cake, put the first layer cut side up on a cardboard cake
circle if you have one, or on a plate. Put about ¾ cup chocolate mousse on
top of the layer and use an offset spatula to spread it evenly over the cake,
leaving a border of about ¼ inch around the circumference. Put the next
layer rounded side down on top of the mousse, and gently press on the cake
layer to settle it. Add another ¾ cup mousse and spread it over the top as
before. Add the next layer cut side up, and repeat. Put the top layer on the
cake, cut side down, and spread about ¾ cup mousse over it so it goes
slightly past the edges. Don’t worry about making it perfect, just
concentrate on covering the top of the cake. Clean off your spatula every so
often, scraping excess mousse back into the bowl. Then spread a thin layer
of mousse around the sides of the cake. This is the “crumb coat,” so you just
want to make everything smooth and even and fill in any gaps in the sides.

Scrape off any excess frosting, rinse your spatula under warm water, and
wipe it dry. Warming it will make it easier to spread the final coat of
frosting. Then spread the remaining mousse evenly over the top and sides of
the cake.

Sprinkle about a cup of the flaked coconut over the top of the cake. Take
handfuls of the remaining coconut and gently press them onto the sides of
the cake, coating the entire surface. Refrigerate the cake for at least 30
minutes so the frosting can set up.

Bring the cake to room temperature before serving.


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Pressing the coconut flakes against the milk chocolate mousse on the
outside of the Coconut Cake.
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Layers of moist, snowy white Coconut Cake (here), and rich chocolate
mousse.
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strawberries-and-cream cake
makes one 9-inch layer cake

This is one of Aki’s favorite cakes: soft white cake


layers with fragrant strawberries and freshly
whipped cream. White cakes are made with only egg
whites (you could use the leftover yolks to make the
Agnolotti dough here on the same day). They have a
light, fluffy texture and a fine crumb. This is the
upscale version of strawberry shortcake, but it is still
homey enough to satisfy the kid in us all. It goes
without saying that this should be made when
strawberries are in season. Or you could substitute
your favorite fruit: raspberries sliced in half, slices of
ripe peaches, juicy orange suprêmes.
white cake
8 tablespoons / 4 ounces / 113 grams unsalted butter, at room
temperature
1½ cups / 300 grams sugar
1 tablespoon / 18 grams baking powder
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1 teaspoon / 6 grams fine sea salt


1 teaspoon / 4 grams vanilla paste or pure vanilla extract
9 large egg whites (put 3 in one small bowl and 6 in another bowl), at
room temperature
2 cups / 260 grams Gluten-Free Flour Blend (What IiF Flour 3.0, here,
Batch-3 Flour, here, or Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend, here)
1 cup / 260 grams whole milk, at room temperature

strawberries and cream


2 quarts ripe strawberries
3 cups / 720 grams heavy cream
1⅓ cups / 150 grams powdered sugar
½ teaspoon / 3 grams fine sea salt

Preheat the oven to 350°F. (175°C.). Butter three 9-inch round cake pans.
Dust them lightly with flour, flip them over, and tap the bottoms gently to
remove any excess, then line with parchment circles.

Put the butter, 1¼ cups of the sugar, baking powder, and salt in the bowl of
a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or use a hand mixer) and
mix on low until the mixture is light and fluffy, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the
vanilla and 3 egg whites and mix until the whites are fully incorporated.
Add one-third of the flour and mix on low until it is absorbed. Add half the
milk and mix until almost absorbed. Add half of the remaining flour
mixture and mix in the same manner, followed by the remaining milk, and
then the remainder of the flour. Then mix until the batter is completely
smooth and silky, about 1 minute.

Put the remaining 6 egg whites in a large bowl and whisk until foamy (or
use a hand mixer). Gradually add the remaining ¼ cup sugar and continue
to whisk until the whites reach stiff peaks. Use a rubber spatula to fold the
egg whites into the cake batter in 3 additions.

Divide the batter evenly among the prepared cake pans and smooth the tops
with a spatula. Bake for 17 to 20 minutes, or until the cake is just beginning
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to pull away from the sides of the pans; the internal temperature should be
190° to 195°F. (88° to 91°C.). Let the cakes cool for 15 minutes in the pans
on a rack, then turn them out onto a rack remove the parchment, and let
cool completely.

Wash the strawberries and slice the stems off leaving each berry with a flat
top. Reserve the 16 prettiest berries to decorate the top of the cake. Stand
one of the remaining strawberries on its flat end and cut it vertically into 4
slices. Transfer to a bowl and repeat with the remaining berries.

When you are ready to build the cake, put the heavy cream, powdered
sugar, and salt in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment
(or use a hand mixer) and whip until the cream forms stiff peaks.

Put the first cake layer on a cardboard cake circle if you have one, or on a
plate. Cover the top with sliced strawberries, leaving a ¼-inch border
around the circumference. Cover the strawberries with about ¾ cup
whipped cream and use an offset spatula to spread it evenly over the berries.
Top with another cake layer and repeat. (You may have extra sliced berries
which can be served alongside the cake.) Then frost the entire cake with the
remaining whipped cream. Decorate the cake with the reserved
strawberries.

Chill the cake for at least 30 minutes and up to 6 hours, before serving.

White cake batter beside Build the Strawberries-and-


whipped egg whites, ready to be Cream Cake by adding layers of
folded together. cake, sweet berries, and softly
whipped cream.
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Add the top layer right-side up Strawberries-and-Cream Cake,


for a smooth surface for frosted with whipped cream and
frosting. decorated with fresh berries.
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A slice of Strawberries-and-Cream Cake, showing off the layers of tender


white cake, sweet cream, and red berries.
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carrot cake
makes one 6½-by-18-inch two-layer or one 9-inch
three-layer cake

This is one of the best cakes we’ve ever made. We


know this because everybody has told us so. Even
people who don’t normally like carrot cake devour it.
We use glazed walnuts in the recipe. First we steep
them in sugar syrup to pull some of the tannins from
the nuts, which reduces their natural bitterness. Then
we roast them. The syrup still clinging to them
candies as they bake, sealing the nuts and giving
them a light, crunchy texture. These nuts are
dangerously addictive—we’ve been known to pile
them in a bowl and serve them with drinks. If you
like, you can substitute an equal amount of any nut
and give them the same treatment.
The ingredient list may look long, but everything
works together. The warm spices in the cake balance
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the earthy sweetness of the carrots; the walnuts add


richness; and the candied ginger and fresh orange
zest brighten things up. The tangy but delicate cream
cheese frosting provides the perfect creamy foil to the
moist cake. Truthfully, we’ve been known to eat the
leftovers for breakfast.
glazed walnuts
1 cup / 130 grams raw walnuts
¾ cup / 150 grams sugar
½ cup + 2½ tablespoons / 150 grams water
⅜ teaspoon / 2.25 grams fine sea salt
2 teaspoons / ⅓ ounce / 10 grams unsalted butter, sliced

cake
2⅓ cups / 300 grams Gluten-Free Flour Blend (What IiF Flour 3.0,
here, Batch-3 Flour, here, or Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend, here)
1 tablespoon / 18 grams baking powder
1¼ teaspoons / 6.25 grams baking soda
¾ teaspoon / 4.5 grams fine sea salt
1¼ cups (packed) / 260 grams light brown sugar
1 cup / 200 grams granulated sugar
4 large eggs
1½ cups / 337.5 grams vegetable oil
¼ cup / 60 grams heavy cream
1 tablespoon / 12 grams vanilla paste or pure vanilla extract
1 tablespoon / 11.5 grams finely chopped candied ginger
Grated zest of 2 large oranges
1½ teaspoons / 3 grams ground cinnamon
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¾ teaspoon / 1.5 grams grated nutmeg


½ teaspoon / 0.5 grams ground cardamom
3 cups (firmly packed) / 300 grams shredded carrots (about 4 medium
carrots)

cream cheese frosting


2 pounds 3 ounces / 1000 grams cream cheese, at room temperature
1½ cups / 360 grams heavy cream
2½ cups / 300 grams powdered sugar, sifted
½ teaspoon / 3 grams fine sea salt
½ teaspoon / 1 gram grated nutmeg

To make the glazed walnuts, put the nuts, sugar, water, and ¼ teaspoon of
the salt in a small saucepan and bring to a boil over medium-high heat, then
reduce the heat and simmer for 5 minutes. Remove from the heat, cover,
and let the nuts steep for 20 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. (180°C.).

Drain the nuts, discarding the syrup, and transfer them to a medium bowl.
Toss them with the butter and the remaining ⅛ teaspoon salt. Spread the
nuts out on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Roast for 15 to 20
minutes, rotating the pan once, until the nuts are a deep golden brown.
Remove from the oven and let cool completely; the nuts will crisp up as
they cool. (The nuts will keep for up to 2 weeks in an airtight container at
room temperature.) Leave the oven on.

Lightly butter a 13-by-18-inch baking sheet or three 9-inch round cake pans
or spray with nonstick cooking spray and line with parchment paper.

To make the cake, whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda,
and salt in a medium bowl.

Put the brown sugar, granulated sugar, and eggs, in the bowl of a stand
mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or use a hand mixer) and mix on
medium-low until well combined.
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Add the oil, cream, vanilla, candied ginger, orange zest, cinnamon, nutmeg,
and cardamom and beat on low until just combined. Add the flour mixture
and beat until just combined. Add the carrots and the glazed nuts and mix
until just incorporated.

Pour the batter into the prepared baking sheet and smooth the top with a
small offset spatula. If using 3 round cake pans, divide the batter evenly
among them. There should be 610 to 620 grams of batter in each pan. Tap
each pan lightly on the countertop a few times to help settle the batter. Bake
the sheet cake for 25 to 30 minutes, until it is dark golden brown and a cake
tester inserted in the center comes out clean. Round cake layers should be
baked for 20 minutes; then rotate the pans and bake for an additional 10
minutes. The internal temperature should be 205°F. (96°C.). Cool in the
pans on a rack for 15 minutes, then invert onto a rack, remove the
parchment, and cool completely.

To make the frosting, put the cream cheese, cream, powered sugar, salt, and
nutmeg in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment (or
use a hand mixer) and beat on medium speed until light and fluffy.

To assemble a two-layer cake: Cut the cooled sheet cake lengthwise in half.
Lay one layer on a serving platter. Use about one-quarter of the frosting to
cover the top of the layer, leaving a ¼-inch border around the outside edges.
Lay the second layer on top of the first, pressing down gently so it lies flat.
Use the remaining frosting to cover the top and sides of the cake.

To assemble a three-layer cake: Turn the cake layers out onto wire racks.
Put the first layer on a cardboard cake circle if you have one. With an offset
spatula, evenly spread about ¾ cup frosting over the top, leaving a border of
about ¼ inch around the circumference. Put the next layer on top, add
another ¾ cup frosting, and spread it over the top as before. Put the final
layer on top and spread about ¾ cup frosting over it, letting the frosting
come to the edges and slightly past them. Don’t worry about making it
perfect. Clean off your spatula every so often, scraping excess frosting back
into the bowl. Spread a thin layer of frosting around the sides of the cake.
This is the crumb coat—you just want to make everything smooth and even
and fill in any holes along the side. Scrape off any excess frosting, then
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rinse your spatula under warm water and wipe it dry. This will make it
easier to spread the final coat. Swirl the remaining frosting onto the cake in
pretty patterns or pipe small rosettes along the border.

Refrigerate the cake for at least 30 minutes so the frosting can set up. Bring
the cake to room temperature before serving.

Walnuts simmered in brown Drained walnuts with the butter


sugar syrup. added, ready for mixing.

Butter-glazed walnuts, ready to Roasted Glazed Walnuts.


bake.
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Carrot Cake batter with oil After adding flour to Carrot


blended into the eggs and sugar. Cake batter.

Adding the carrots and walnuts Fully blended Carrot Cake


to the batter. batter.
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Weighing the Carrot Cake batter


Cream Cheese Frosting, ready to
to create equal layers for the
go.
three-layer version.

Cooled Carrot Cake layers. Fully assembled three-layer


Carrot Cake.
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An inside look at the Carrot Cake.


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A healthy slice of the best Carrot Cake you will ever eat (three-layer
version).
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The first taste of tender Carrot Cake (here; two-layer version) and
whipped cream cheese frosting.
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boston cream pie


makes one 9-inch layer cake

This classic New England dessert is not a pie at all,


but a sponge cake layered with vanilla pudding. Here
the pudding is thickened with both cornstarch and
tapioca starch—the blend of starches provides
thickening power, silkiness, and elasticity. The cake is
glazed with a rich chocolate ganache. We add some
cornstarch to the ganache to help it set up nicely,
along with touch of butter, because it makes it look
and taste even better. We made this cake for Alex’s
Aunt Erica’s birthday and we loved it so much that
somehow it keeps reappearing on our table.
vanilla pudding
2 cups / 520 grams whole milk
1 cup / 240 grams heavy cream
1 cup + 2 tablespoons / 225 grams sugar
4 large egg yolks
3 tablespoons / 18 grams tapioca starch
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1½ tablespoons / 10.5 grams cornstarch


1 teaspoon / 6 grams fine sea salt
8 tablespoons / 4 ounces / 113 grams unsalted butter, sliced
2 teaspoons / 8 grams vanilla paste or pure vanilla extract

sponge cake
1 cup + 2 tablespoons / 145 grams Gluten-Free Flour Blend (What IiF
Flour 3.0, here, Batch-3 Flour, here, or Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend,
here)
1 teaspoon / 6 grams baking powder
¼ teaspoon / 1.5 grams fine sea salt
½ cup / 130 grams whole milk
4 tablespoons / 2 ounces / 56 grams unsalted butter, sliced
1 cup / 200 grams sugar
2 large eggs, at room temperature
½ teaspoon vanilla paste or pure vanilla extract

chocolate ganache
¼ cup / 60 grams heavy cream
2 tablespoons / 14 grams cornstarch
¼ teaspoon / 1.5 grams fine sea salt
8 ounces / 225 grams bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped
2 tablespoons / 1 ounce / 28 grams unsalted butter, cut into pieces

To make the pudding, put the milk, cream, sugar, egg yolks, tapioca starch,
cornstarch, and salt in a medium saucepan and whisk together until well
blended. Set the pan over medium heat and cook, stirring constantly with a
silicone spatula, until the mixture comes to a boil and is as thick as pudding.
Remove from the heat and stir in the butter and vanilla until the butter has
melted and been absorbed.

Transfer the pudding to a bowl and cover with plastic wrap, pressing it
directly on the surface to prevent a skin from developing. Refrigerate for at
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least 3 hours, or as long as overnight.

Preheat the oven to 325°F. (165°C.). Butter a 9-inch round cake pan and
line the bottom with parchment paper.

To make the cake, put the flour, baking powder, and salt in a medium bowl
and whisk to blend.

Put the milk and butter in a small saucepan and bring to a simmer over low
heat.

Meanwhile, put the sugar and eggs in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with
the whisk attachment (or use a hand mixer) and until light and lemon
colored, 3 to 5 minutes.

Add the vanilla to the egg mixture and mix to blend. Beat in the flour
mixture on low speed until just incorporated. Beating on low speed, slowly
pour in the hot milk and mix until just incorporated.

Pour the batter into the prepared pan and smooth the top. Bake for 20 to 25
minutes, until the cake is golden brown and is beginning to pull away from
the sides of the pan; the internal temperature should be 190° to 195°F. (88°
to 91°C.). Let cool for 15 minutes on a rack, then invert the cake onto a
rack, remove the parchment, and let cool completely.

To assemble the cake, split the cake horizontally in half with a serrated
knife. Lay the bottom half cut side up on a serving plate and top with the
pudding. Spread the pudding in an even layer, leaving a ¼-inch border
around the outside edges. Top with the top of the cake, cut side down, and
press down gently to even the layers.

To make the ganache, put the cream, cornstarch, and salt in small saucepan
and whisk to blend, set over medium heat, and bring to a simmer, stirring.
Remove from the heat, add the chocolate, and whisk until the chocolate is
melted and the ganache is smooth. Add the butter and whisk until the butter
is melted and completely absorbed.

Pour the warm ganache onto the center of the cake and, working quickly,
use an offset spatula to spread it evenly over the top. Letting it drip down
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the sides.

Refrigerate the cake for at least 30 minutes so the chocolate can set before
serving.
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CHAPTER 11

All-Butter Pie Dough


Nut-Butter Pie Dough
Chocolate Pie Dough
Summer Peach Pie
Honey Walnut Pie
Apple Grape Pie
Blueberry-Cheesecake Pie
Banana Butterfinger Cream Pie
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Masa Harina Pie with Coffee Cream


Flavored Whipped Cream
Cinnamon Whipped Cream
Maple Whipped Cream
Caramel Whipped Cream
Cocoa Whipped Cream
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all-butter pie dough


makes two 9-inch crusts

This is our classic pie dough. It has a rich flavor and


a flaky texture. The food processor makes the dough
simple to put together, and the gluten-free nature of
the flour means you don’t have to worry about a
tough crust. The dough does tear easily, but you can
simply pat it back together in the pie pan. Once it
bakes, you’ll never know the difference. We roll all of
our piecrusts out on parchment paper to make it
easier to move them from countertop to pie plate.
2½ cups + 2 tablespoons / 340 grams Gluten-Free Flour Blend (What
IiF Flour 3.0, here, Batch-3 Flour, here, or Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend,
here)
2 tablespoons / 25 grams sugar
¾ teaspoon / 4.5 grams fine sea salt
16 tablespoons (2 sticks) / 8 ounces / 225 grams cold unsalted butter,
diced
¼ cup / 55 grams ice water
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Combine the flour, sugar, and salt in a food processor and pulse 4 or 5 times
to blend. Add the butter and pulse 2 or 3 times, or until the mixture looks
sandy. Add the ice water and run the processor for 5 to 10 seconds to bring
the dough together. If it seems a little dry, add more ice water 1 tablespoon
at time. The dough should resemble small pebbles and hold together when
you squeeze it in your hand.

Turn the dough out onto a floured countertop in a pile. Sprinkle the top
lightly with flour. Starting at one end, use the heel of your hand to smear a
small amount of dough at a time against the countertop until you have
smeared it into flakes of dough. Do this quickly, being sure not to work any
sections of dough more than once. (This technique, known as fraisage,
forms flaky layers of fat and flour.) Once all of the dough has been
flattened, divide the flakes into 2 equal stacks and gently press into compact
disks, no more than 2 inches thick.

You can roll the crust(s) out and bake immediately or roll them out, wrap
them securely in plastic wrap, and freeze for up to 2 weeks. Or keep the
dough, wrapped, in the refrigerator for up to a week. Let refrigerated dough
rest at room temperature for at least 30 minutes before rolling.

Just mixed All-Butter Pie Dough A light dusting of flour on the


turned out onto the countertop. dough before fraisage begins.
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Completed fraisage, the pie


Starting fraisage, the smearing
dough is ready to be brought
of the butter into the flour.
back together.

All-Butter Pie Dough being Two All-Butter Pie Dough disks,


shaped into disks. ready to be rolled.

All-Butter Pie Dough rolled out Using the pie pan to check the
on parchment paper for easy size of the pie dough.
handling.
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Parchment paper makes it easy


The pie dough ready to be
to invert the dough into the pie
trimmed and pinched.
pan.

Pinched pie dough, ready for action.


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nut-butter pie dough


makes two 9-inch crusts

This is one of those recipes where a small change


made a big difference. The addition of nut butter
brings an entirely new dimension of flavor to
piecrust. You can use any store-bought nut butter:
peanut, almond, or SunButter, or even Nutella. You
can also make your own peanut butter by grinding
the nuts in a food processor. We add 0.5 percent salt
by weight to roasted nuts and, if we’re feeling sweet,
a teaspoon or two of honey, then simply process
them, scraping the bowl down occasionally, until
smooth and creamy.
This crust is great when you want to add a hint of
nuttiness to a pie without putting nuts in the filling.
We especially like it with the Apple Grape Pie (here)
and the Blueberry-Cheesecake Pie (here).
2½ cups + 2 tablespoons / 340 grams Gluten-Free Flour Blend (What
IiF Flour 3.0, here, Batch-3 Flour, here, or Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend,
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here)
1 tablespoon / 12.5 grams sugar
½ teaspoon / 3 grams fine sea salt
8 tablespoons / 4 ounces / 113 grams cold unsalted butter, diced
½ cup / 135 grams chilled nut butter
¼ cup / 55 grams ice water

Combine the flour, sugar, and salt in a food processor and pulse 4 or 5 times
to blend. Add the butter and nut butter and pulse 2 or 3 times, or until the
mixture looks sandy. Add the ice water and run the processor for 5 to 10
seconds to bring the mixture together. If it seems a little dry, add more ice
water 1 tablespoon at time. The dough should resemble small pebbles and
hold together when you squeeze it in your hand.

Turn the dough out onto a floured countertop in a pile. Sprinkle the top of
the dough lightly with flour. Starting at one end, use the heel of your hand
to smear a small amount of dough at a time against the countertop until you
have smeared it into flakes of dough. Do this quickly, being sure not to
work any sections of dough more than once. (This technique, known as
fraisage, forms flaky layers of fat and flour.) Once all of the dough has been
flattened, divide the flakes into 2 equal stacks and gently press into compact
disks, no more than 2 inches thick.

You can roll the crust(s) out and bake immediately or roll them out, wrap
them securely in plastic wrap, and freeze for up to 2 weeks. Or keep the
dough, wrapped, in the refrigerator for up to a week. Let refrigerated dough
rest at room temperature for at least 30 minutes before rolling.
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chocolate pie dough


makes two 9-inch crusts

This chocolate crust is so rich and flaky that we save


the scraps of dough and make small cookies out of
them. The quality of the cocoa makes a huge
difference in the dough. We like Cacao Barry,
Valrhona, and Ghirardelli best. Chocolate piecrust is
a great match for Banana Butterfinger Cream Pie
(here) and Masa Harina Pie (here).
2 cups / 260 grams Gluten-Free Flour Blend (What IiF Flour 3.0, here,
Batch-3 Flour, here, or Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend, here)
½ cup + 2 tablespoons / 75 grams natural cocoa powder
2 tablespoons / 25 grams sugar
¾ teaspoon / 4.5 grams fine sea salt
16 tablespoons (2 sticks) / 8 ounces / 225 grams cold unsalted butter,
diced
¼ cup / 55 grams ice water

Combine the flour, cocoa, sugar, and salt in a food processor and pulse 4 or
5 times to blend. Add the butter and pulse 2 or 3 times, or until the mixture
looks sandy. Add the ice water and run the processor for 5 to 10 seconds to
bring the mixture together. If it seems a little dry, add more ice water 1
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tablespoon at time. The dough should resemble small pebbles and hold
together when you squeeze a bit in your hand.

Turn the dough out onto a floured countertop in a pile. Sprinkle the top
lightly with flour. Starting at one end, use the heel of your hand to smear a
small amount of dough at a time against the countertop until you have
smeared it into flakes of dough. Do this quickly, being sure not to work any
sections of dough more than once. (This technique, known as fraisage,
forms flaky layers of fat and flour.) Once all of the dough has been
flattened, divide the flakes into 2 equal stacks and gently press them into
compact disks, no more than 2 inches thick.

You can roll the crust(s) out and bake them immediately or roll them out,
wrap them securely in plastic wrap, and freeze for up to 2 weeks. Or keep
the dough, wrapped, in the refrigerator for up to a week. Let refrigerated
dough rest at room temperature for at least 30 minutes before rolling.
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Chocolate Pie Dough in a pan, ready for blind baking or filling.


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summer peach pie


makes one 9-inch pie

Is there anything better than a fragrant, perfectly ripe


peach? It is one of the last truly seasonal treasures to
arrive on our table. In our house, unblemished
peaches are devoured out of hand and the rest are set
aside for pie. We cook the peaches before filling the
pie for two reasons: the caramelized sugar adds a
great depth of flavor and the initial cooking helps
release the abundant juices and set them into a gel
with the starches. We leave the skins on our fruit, but
feel free to peel yours if you prefer. The sliced
peaches become plump, tender, and silky in the
filling. We like to serve this with our Sweet-and-Spicy
Ginger Cream Ice Cream (here), but softly whipped
cream or vanilla ice cream works equally well.
All-Butter Pie Dough (here) or Nut-Butter Pie Dough (here)
6 large peaches, halved, pitted, and cut into bite-sized pieces
¾ cup / 150 grams granulated sugar
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½ teaspoon / 3 grams fine sea salt


2 tablespoons / 14 grams tapioca starch
1 tablespoon / 6 grams cornstarch
¼ cup / 56 grams cold water
1 large egg yolk
1 tablespoon / 16 grams whole milk
2 tablespoons / 28 grams raw sugar

Preheat the oven to 375°F. (190°C.). Lightly butter a 9-inch pie pan.

Roll out one piece of dough into a 12-inch circle on parchment paper or a
silicone mat. Slide one hand underneath the parchment, slightly lifting the
center of the dough, pick up the pie pan in your other hand, and invert it
over the dough, pressing the center of the dough into the center of the pan,
then carefully flip over the pie pan and the dough. Lift off the parchment
paper and discard. Gently press the dough against the bottom and sides of
the pan. Trim the edges, leaving a 1-inch overhang. Cover loosely with
plastic wrap and refrigerate.

Put the peaches in a bowl, add ¼ cup of the granulated sugar and the salt,
and mix gently to blend.

Put the remaining ½ cup sugar in a medium saucepan, set it over medium
heat, and caramelize the sugar, tilting the pan as needed to mix. Once the
sugar turns dark amber, carefully add the peaches, and any juices and stir
gently. The caramel will bubble vigorously and steam when you add the
fruit and then seize and harden. Turn the heat down to low and continue to
cook until the caramel melts.

Mix together the tapioca starch, cornstarch, and cold water in a small bowl
to make a slurry. Once the caramel melts, add the slurry and stir to blend.
Bring the mixture to a simmer, stirring, and cook, stirring, until it thickens.
Remove from the heat and let cool for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Roll the second piece of dough out into a 12-inch circle on parchment paper
or a silicone mat. Pour the peaches and their juices into the prepared
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piecrust. Lay the second crust over the top and trim it so that there is a 1-
inch overhang all around. If the piecrust falls apart a bit, as gluten-free
crusts sometimes do, just press it back together. Tuck the edges of the top
crust over the edges of the bottom crust and fold them under, pinching them
together gently all the way around.

Mix the egg yolk and milk together with a pastry brush and brush the egg
wash over the top of the pie. Sprinkle the raw sugar evenly over the top.

Put the pie on a parchment-lined baking sheet and bake for 45 minutes.
Rotate the pie (don’t worry if some of the juices have bubbled over), lower
the oven temperature to 350°F. (180°C.), and bake for 45 minutes more, or
until the pie is a deep golden brown. Let cool for at least 1 hour before
serving.
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honey walnut pie


makes one 9-inch pie

This pie is for walnut lovers. The intense sweetness of


the honey helps balance the slight natural bitterness
of the walnuts and brings out their rich, buttery
flavor. We like a flavorful honey, and we recommend
that you find the best local honey you can get your
hands on. The play between the delicate flaky crust,
the sweet honey gel, and softly crunchy nuts is
seductive and indulgent. Serve with vanilla ice cream
or a dollop of Cinnamon Whipped Cream (here).
1 disk Chocolate Pie Dough (here) or All-Butter Pie Dough (here)
2½ cups / 200 grams walnut halves
1 cup / 260 grams high-quality honey, such as sourwood, orange
blossom, or basswood
⅓ cup (packed) / 70 grams light brown sugar
¼ teaspoon / 1.5 grams fine sea salt
4 large eggs, at room temperature
¼ cup / 60 grams heavy cream

Preheat the oven to 325°F. (160°C.). Lightly butter a 9-inch pie pan.
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Roll out the dough into a 12-inch circle on parchment paper or a silicone
mat. Slide one hand underneath the parchment, slightly lifting the center of
the dough. Pick up the pie pan in your other hand, and invert it over the
dough, pressing the center of the dough into the center of the pan, then
carefully flip over the pie pan and the dough. Lift off the parchment paper
and discard. Gently press the dough against the bottom and sides of the pan.
Trim the edges, leaving a 1-inch overhang. Tuck the overhang under the
crust, forming a soft cylinder of dough all the way around the edge of the
pie. Use your thumbs and forefingers to gently pinch and crimp this dough
all the way around to form the border. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and
refrigerate.

Put the walnuts in a large bowl and set aside.

Heat the honey and sugar in a medium saucepan over medium heat, stirring
constantly with a silicone spatula, until the sugar dissolves. Add the salt and
stir to blend, then remove from the heat and let cool for 15 minutes.

Add the eggs to the sugar syrup one at a time, stirring until each egg is fully
incorporated before adding the next. Stir in the cream until fully blended.
Pour the mixture over the walnuts and stir to thoroughly coat the nuts.

Using a slotted spoon, spoon the walnuts into the piecrust. Then slowly
pour the remaining liquid into the crust; you may not need all of it to fill the
pan. Bake for 45 to 55 minutes, until the filling is golden brown and just set.
When you gently shake the pie pan, it will wobble a bit but should not seem
liquid at all. Let cool completely before serving.

NOTE: Do you remember tasting honeysuckle as a kid? Pulling the small


threads from inside the yellow blossoms to taste the sweet nectar clinging to
them? Bees use their tongues to harvest that nectar and then store it in their
“honey stomach.” Their honey stomach can hold up to 70 milligrams of
nectar, which they carry back to the hive. The worker bees suck the honey
from the carrier bees’ stomachs and process them in their own bodies to
break the nectar down into simple sugars. Then they spread it through the
honeycombs, where the water evaporates out of it, thickening and
concentrating the liquid. The bees use their wings to fan the combs and
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speed up the process. Once the honey reaches the right consistency, they
plug the comb with wax to save it until they are ready to eat it. The honey
gets its color and flavor from the type of flower nectar collected by the bees.
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apple grape pie


makes one 9-inch pie

Our favorite all-purpose apple is the Honeycrisp. As


its name indicates, it is crisp and juicy, with a sweet,
tangy flavor. It’s actually a cross between the Macoun
and the Honeygold varieties. These apple crosses are
created by pollinating the blossoms of one apple
variety with pollen from another. The resulting apples
will look like the original apples from that tree, but
their seeds will produce trees that have apples of a
new variety, combining elements of the original apple
and the one that supplied the pollen.
Apples and grapes may sound like a surprising
combination, but they are delicious together. Last
fall, huge beautiful grapes appeared in all the local
markets just as apple season hit its peak. It only
made sense to bring them together in a pie.
All-Butter Pie Dough (here) or Nut-Butter Pie Dough (here)
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2 cups / 325 grams large, seedless grapes


3 large apples, preferably Honeycrisp
¾ cup / 150 grams granulated sugar
2 tablespoons / 14 grams cornstarch
1 tablespoon / 6 grams tapioca starch
¼ teaspoon / 1.5 grams fine sea salt
¼ teaspoon / 0.5 gram ground cinnamon
⅛ teaspoon / 0.25 gram ground mace
1 large egg yolk
1 tablespoon / 16 grams whole milk
2 tablespoons / 28 grams raw sugar

Preheat the oven to 375°F. (190°C.). Lightly butter a 9-inch pie pan.

Roll out one piece of dough into a 12-inch circle on parchment paper or a
silicone mat. Slide one hand underneath the parchment, slightly lifting the
center of the dough, pick up the pie pan in your other hand, and invert it
over the dough, pressing the center of the dough into the center of the pan,
then carefully flip over the pie pan and the dough. Lift off the parchment
paper and discard. Gently press the dough against the bottom and sides of
the pan. Trim the edges, leaving a 1-inch overhang. Cover loosely with
plastic wrap and refrigerate.

Cut the grapes lengthwise in half and put them in a large bowl. Peel the
apples and cut them into quarters. Lay each piece flat on the cutting board
and slice away the stem, seeds, and core. Then split each quarter lengthwise
in half and cut it crosswise into ½-inch pieces. Add them to the bowl, then
add the granulated sugar, cornstarch, tapioca starch, salt, cinnamon, and
mace and mix gently with a rubber spatula to blend well.

Pour the mixture into the prepared piecrust, gently spreading the fruit
evenly over the bottom.

Roll the second piecrust out into a 12-inch circle on parchment paper or a
silicone mat. Lay it over the top of the pie and trim it so that there is a 1-
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inch overhang all around. Tuck the edges of the top crust over the edges of
the bottom crust and fold them under, pinching them together gently all the
way around.

Mix the egg yolk and milk together with a pastry brush and brush the egg
wash over the top of the pie. Sprinkle the raw sugar evenly over the top.

Put the pie on a parchment-lined baking sheet and bake for 45 minutes.
Rotate the pie, lower the oven temperature to 350°F. (180°C.), and bake for
45 minutes more, or until the pie is a deep golden brown. Let cool for at
least 1 hour before serving.

Apple Grape Pie filling (here) in Sprinkle flour over the top layer
the bottom crust. and brush with egg wash.

Cover the pie with a thin layer of Apple Grape Pie fresh out of the
raw sugar before baking. oven and cooling in the pan.
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Sliced golden-brown Apple Grape Pie filled with sweet, juicy fruit.
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A slice of Apple Grape Pie (here), bursting with juicy fruit surrounded by
crunchy-tender crust.
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blueberry-cheesecake pie
makes one 9-inch pie

This recipe brings together cheesecake and pie, two


of our favorite things. One of the hardest things to get
right about cheesecake is the crust. It’s often
indifferently made with store-bought graham
crackers and is overly buttery and sweet. We had
already turned that problem upside down by creating
a streusel-topped cheesecake. One day Aki had an
epiphany and decided to bake the streusel cheesecake
in a piecrust, and just like that, we had a new
favorite: cheesecake pie. The blueberry layer adds a
sweet, tangy fruit flavor, without being gummy, like
most blueberry toppings. Lavender flowers are sold
in specialty supermarkets and most spice shops. If
you can find them, their floral sweetness will
heighten the flavors of the berries. Once you try this
pie, you’ll never look at cheesecake the same way
again.
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1 disk All-Butter Pie Dough (here) or Nut-Butter Pie Dough (here)

blueberry layer
2 pints / 620 grams blueberries
½ cup / 100 grams sugar
⅜ teaspoon / 2.25 grams fine sea salt
2 tablespoons / 12 grams tapioca starch
1½ teaspoons / 3.5 grams cornstarch
1 tablespoon / 14 grams water

cheesecake layer
¾ cup / 180 grams sour cream
⅓ cup / 75 grams sugar
¼ teaspoon / 1.5 grams fine sea salt
1 large egg
1 teaspoon vanilla paste or pure vanilla extract
½ pound / 225 grams cream cheese, diced, at room temperature
1 tablespoon / ½ ounce / 14 grams unsalted butter, melted

streusel
¾ cup / 150 grams sugar
1 cup / 130 grams Gluten-Free Flour Blend (What IiF Flour 3.0, here,
Batch-3 Flour, here, or Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend, here)
⅛ teaspoon / 0.25 gram dried lavender flowers (optional)
⅛ teaspoon / 0.75 gram fine sea salt
8 tablespoons / 4 ounces / 113 grams cold unsalted butter, diced

Preheat the oven to 350°F. (180°C.). Lightly butter a deep 9-inch pie pan.

Roll out the dough into a 12-inch circle on parchment paper or a silicone
mat. Slide one hand underneath the parchment, slightly lifting the center of
the dough. Pick up the pie pan in your other hand, and invert it over the
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dough, pressing the center of the dough into the center of the pan, then
carefully flip over the pie pan and the dough. Lift off the parchment paper
and discard. Gently press the dough against the bottom and sides of the pan.
Trim the edges, leaving a 1-inch overhang. Tuck the overhang under the
crust, forming a soft cylinder of dough all the way around the pie. Use your
thumbs and forefingers to gently pinch and crimp this dough all the way
around to form the border.

Bake the crust for 30 minutes. Rotate the pan and bake for 10 more minutes,
or until the crust is a deep brown. Put the pan on a wire rack and let cool
completely.

To make the blueberry layer, put the blueberries, sugar, and salt in a
medium saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Reduce heat to
low and cook for 10 minutes, until the berries begin to burst and become
juicy.

Meanwhile, put the tapioca starch, cornstarch, and water in a small bowl
and stir to make a slurry. Increase the heat to medium, pour in the slurry,
and cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture comes to a boil and thickens,
about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. (180°C.).

Meanwhile, make the cheesecake layer: Put the sour cream, sugar, and salt
in a blender and blend on low until smooth. Add the eggs one at a time,
blending just until incorporated. Add the vanilla and blend to incorporate.
Add the cream cheese and blend until smooth. With the blender running,
pour in the melted butter and blend until the butter has been absorbed. Set
aside.

To make the streusel, put the sugar, flour, lavender, if using, and salt in a
food processor and pulse to a fine powder, about 30 seconds. Add the butter
and pulse until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Reserve in a covered
container in the refrigerator.

Pour the blueberry layer into the baked piecrust, using a small offset spatula
to spread it evenly on the bottom. Pour the cheesecake layer over the
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blueberry layer. Put the pie in the oven and bake for 15 minutes.

Remove from the oven and carefully sprinkle the streusel over the top of the
pie. Return to the oven and bake for another 40 minutes, until the filling is
just set but still wobbles slightly when shaken gently; the internal
temperature of the cheesecake layer should be 150°F. (66°C.). Let the pie
cool completely.

Transfer the pie to the refrigerator and chill for at least 3 hours before
serving.

Tapioca and cornstarch slurry


Lavender streusel ready to top
added to the just-burst
the Blueberry-Cheesecake Pie.
blueberries.

Thickened blueberries cooled in Baked streusel-topped


par-baked piecrust, ready for the Blueberry-Cheesecake Pie.
cheesecake layer.
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Sliced Blueberry-Cheesecake Pie.


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banana butterfinger cream pie


makes one 9-inch pie

There’s something about a Butterfinger: must be that


light, layered, crispy, crunchy peanut butter filling.
While we’re not known to sit down and eat a whole
Butterfinger, we love to use them as an add-in:
swirled into ice cream, folded into cookie dough, or,
in this case, crumbled over the top of a pie. We’ve
taken the English approach to banana pudding,
folding the fruit into the warm pudding to infuse its
flavor throughout (as opposed to layering the fruit
and cooled custard for the all-American version). We
pour it into a baked piecrust and let it set up. Then
we cover the top with a luscious layer of whipped
cream and sprinkle a crushed Butterfinger bar over
the top. The result is irresistible.
1 disk Nut-Butter Pie Dough (here), All-Butter Pie Dough (here), or
Chocolate Pie Dough (here)
2½ cups / 650 grams whole milk
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⅔ cup / 132 grams sugar


4 large egg yolks
¼ cup / 28 grams cornstarch
¼ teaspoon / 1.5 grams fine sea salt
2 tablespoons / 1 ounce / 28 grams unsalted butter, diced
3 medium bananas, diced

topping
1¾ cups / 420 grams heavy cream
¼ cup / 30 grams powdered sugar
⅛ teaspoon / 0.75 gram fine sea salt
1 original Butterfinger candy bar, chopped (see Note)

Preheat the oven to 350°F. (180°C.). Lightly butter a 9-inch pie pan.

Roll out the dough into a 12-inch circle on parchment paper or a silicone
mat. Slide one hand underneath the parchment, slightly lifting the center of
the dough. Pick up the pie pan in your other hand, and invert it over the
dough, pressing the center of the dough into the center of the pan, then
carefully flip over the pie pan and the dough. Lift off the parchment paper
and discard. Gently press the dough against the bottom and sides of the pan.
Trim the edges, leaving a 1-inch overhang. Tuck the overhang under the
crust, forming a soft cylinder of dough all the way around the edge of the
pie. Use your thumbs and forefingers to gently pinch and crimp this dough
all the way around to form the border.

Bake the crust for 20 minutes. Rotate the pan and bake the crust for 10 more
minutes, or until set and a deep brown. Put the pan on a rack and let cool
completely.

Meanwhile, put the milk, sugar, egg yolks, cornstarch, and salt in a medium
saucepan, set it over medium-high heat, and whisk to blend, then stir
constantly with a silicone spatula as the mixture comes to a boil. Boil for 1
to 2 minutes, until the mixture thickens to the texture of mayonnaise.
Remove from the heat and stir in the butter until it is melted and absorbed.
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Stir in the bananas. Remove from the heat and let the pudding cool for 20
minutes, stirring occasionally to make sure that all the bananas are
completely submerged.

Pour the pudding into the pie shell and smooth the top, being sure that all
bananas are submerged. Cover with plastic wrap, pressing the wrap against
the surface of the filling, and refrigerate for at least 4 hours, until
completely cool and set.

To make the topping, put the heavy cream, sugar, and salt in the bowl of a
stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment (or use a large bowl and a
handheld mixer) and whip on medium-high speed until the cream forms
stiff peaks.

Pipe or spread the cream over the top of the pie. Sprinkle the crushed
Butterfingers over the cream. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour, and up to 6
hours, before serving to let the cream set.

NOTE: As of this writing, only the original Butterfinger bar is guaranteed-


gluten free.

Banana cream pie smothered in crushed Butterfingers.


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Sliced Banana Butterfinger Cream Pie (here), showing layers of buttery


piecrust, creamy banana pudding, softly whipped cream, and crunchy
Butterfingers.
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masa harina pie with coffee cream


makes one 9-inch pie

This pie was inspired by a budino at Charcoal BYOB,


one of our favorite local restaurants in Yardley, PA.
The filling, which includes maple syrup, is
reminiscent of Indian pudding, but instead of
cornmeal we use masa harina to give it a complex
corn flavor. It’s smooth and silky and rich. The
chocolate and coffee cream provide an edge of
sweetness and a hint of bitterness. Made with
ingredients available year-round, it’s a four-season
pie.
1 disk Chocolate Pie Dough (here)
2 cups / 470 grams Masa Harina Puree (here)
3 large eggs
¾ cup / 150 grams sugar
2 tablespoons / 12 grams tapioca starch
1 tablespoon / 7 grams cornstarch
¾ teaspoon / 4.5 grams fine sea salt
1 teaspoon / 4 grams vanilla paste or pure vanilla extract
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¼ cup + 1 tablespoon / 75 grams pure maple syrup, preferably Grade B


1½ cups / 360 grams heavy cream

coffee cream
1½ cups / 360 grams heavy cream
¾ cup / 90 grams sifted powdered sugar
2 teaspoons / 6 grams instant coffee
¼ teaspoon / 1.5 grams fine sea salt

Preheat the oven to 350°F. (180°C.). Lightly butter a 9-inch pie pan.

Roll out the dough into a 12-inch circle on parchment paper or a silicone
mat. Slide one hand underneath the parchment, slightly lifting the center of
the dough. Pick up the pie pan in your other hand, and invert it over the
dough, pressing the center of the dough into the center of the pan, then
carefully flip over the pie pan and the dough. Lift off the parchment paper
and discard. Gently press the dough against the bottom and sides of the pan.
Trim the edges, leaving a 1-inch overhang. Tuck the overhang under the
crust, forming a soft cylinder of dough all the way around the edge of the
pie. Use your thumbs and forefingers to pinch and crimp this dough to form
the border. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and refrigerate.

Put the masa puree, eggs, and sugar into a food processor and pulse 3 times
to break up the masa. Scrape down the sides of the bowl and process for 30
seconds. Add the tapioca starch, cornstarch, salt, vanilla extract, and maple
syrup and process for 30 seconds. Add the cream and process for 10
seconds or until smooth.

Strain the filling through a fine-mesh strainer into a 1-quart measuring cup
or a pitcher. Pour the filling into the prepared crust and bake for 30 minutes.

Turn the oven down to 300°F. (150°C.) and bake for 1 hour, or until the
filling is set, with a slight jiggle when you gently shake the pan. Remove
the pie from the oven and let it cool on a rack for 1 hour. Refrigerate,
uncovered, for at least 3 hours, until it is completely chilled.
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Meanwhile, make the coffee cream: Put the heavy cream, powdered sugar,
instant coffee, and salt in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk
attachment (or use a hand mixer) and whip starting on low and slowly
increasing the speed to medium, until the cream forms soft peaks. Transfer
the coffee cream to a covered container and refrigerate for up to 8 hours.
Gently rewhip the cream before serving if it begins to fall or separate. Slice
the pie and serve each slice with a healthy dollop of coffee whipped cream.

Chocolate Pie Dough with Masa


Chocolate Pie Dough in a pan,
Harina Pie filling, ready to be
ready for blind baking or filling.
baked.
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Slice of silky Masa Harina Pie with a chocolate crust and Coffee Cream.
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flavored whipped cream


makes about 2¾ cups

Flavored whipped cream is an easy way to make any


dessert special. Heavy cream comes in two versions
these days, pasteurized and ultrapasteurized.
Pasteurized cream is heated to 167°F. (75°C.) for 15
seconds and then chilled. Ultrapasteurized cream is
heated to 280°F. (138°C.) for 2 seconds, which gives
it a longer shelf life and a distinctly cooked flavor. It
doesn’t whip well, and we avoid using it whenever
possible.
We make our whipped cream with powdered sugar
because it dissolves easily and the cornstarch in
helps stabilize the cream. These flavored whipped
creams will keep in a covered container in the
refrigerator for several days. On the off chance that
they start to fall or separate they can simply be
whipped back together by hand. We also add a touch
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of salt, which brings out the natural flavors of the


ingredients. You can use a hand mixer and a large
bowl if you don’t have a stand mixer.

cinnamon whipped cream


1½ cups / 360 grams heavy cream
¾ cup / 90 grams sifted powdered sugar
1 teaspoon / 2 grams ground cinnamon
¼ teaspoon / 1.5 grams fine sea salt

Put the heavy cream, powdered sugar, cinnamon, and salt in the bowl of a
stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment and whip, starting on low and
slowly increasing the speed to medium, until the cream forms soft peaks.

maple whipped cream


1½ cups / 360 grams heavy cream
3 tablespoons / 45 grams pure maple syrup, preferably Grade B
1 tablespoon / 7.5 grams powdered sugar
¼ teaspoon / 1.5 grams fine sea salt

Put the heavy cream, maple syrup, powdered sugar, and salt in the bowl of a
stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment and whip, starting on low and
slowly increasing the speed to medium, until the cream forms soft peaks.

caramel whipped cream


1½ cups / 360 grams heavy cream
¼ cup / 145 grams Bourbon Caramel Sauce (here)
¼ teaspoon / 1.5 grams fine sea salt
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Put the heavy cream, caramel sauce, and salt in the bowl of a stand mixer
fitted with the whisk attachment and whip, starting on low and slowly
increasing the speed to medium, until the cream forms soft peaks.

cocoa whipped cream


¾ cup / 90 grams powdered sugar
½ cup / 60 grams natural cocoa powder
1½ cups / 360 grams heavy cream
¼ teaspoon / 1.5 grams fine sea salt

Whisk together the powdered sugar and cocoa powder in the bowl of a
stand mixer; push the mixture through a fine-mesh strainer if it seems
lumpy.

Fit the mixer with the whisk attachment, add the heavy cream and salt, and
whip, starting on low and slowly increasing the speed to medium, until the
cream until forms soft peaks.
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CHAPTER 12

Classic Chocolate Chip Cookies


Chewy Chocolate Chip Cookies
Snickerdoodles
Peanut Butter Cookies
Jam Cookies
Stroopwafels
Arnhem Biscuits
Cut-Out Sugar Cookies
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Chocolate Snaps
Cookie Crepe Cake
Maple Oatmeal-Raisin Cookies
Oatmeal Lace Cookies
Lemon Sablés
Butterballs
Lemon Angeletti
Biscotti with Pistachios and Dried Cherries
Cookie Crumb Streusel / Petit Beurre-scotti
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classic chocolate chip cookies


makes about 3 dozen cookies

Two chocolate chip cookie recipes? Yes. It was


absolutely necessary to include both kinds: one soft
and cakey, the other chewy. These are our riff on the
classic Tollhouse cookie. We’ve been making these
cookies with wheat flour for years. Made with our
gluten-free blend, they are still soft and cake-like,
with a delicate chew. We use a combination of light
and dark brown sugar to get the flavor just right. The
secret is letting this dough rest in the refrigerator for
at least an hour before baking the cookies. This lets
the flours hydrate and gives the flavor of the vanilla a
chance to develop. Cold dough spreads less in the
oven, so you get a thicker cookie. We’re happy to say
that no one has been able to tell the difference
between these and the originals, and people still ask
for the recipe all the time. Great cookies make people
happy.
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16 tablespoons (2 sticks) / 8 ounces / 225 grams unsalted butter, at room


temperature
3 tablespoons / 12 grams Toasted Milk Powder (here; optional)
1 teaspoon / 6 grams fine sea salt
1 teaspoon / 5 grams baking soda
1 cup (packed) / 213 grams light brown sugar
½ cup (packed) / 107 grams dark brown sugar
2 large eggs, at room temperature
1 teaspoon / 2 grams vanilla paste or pure vanilla extract
2½ cups + 1 tablespoon / 335 grams Gluten-Free Flour Blend (What IiF
Flour 3.0, here, Batch-3 Flour, here, or Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend,
here)
1½ cups / 255 grams premium chocolate chips (we use Ghirardelli
bittersweet chocolate chips)

Put the butter, toasted milk solids, if using, salt, and baking soda in the bowl
of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or use a hand mixer) and
mix on low. Add the sugars ½ cup at a time and then mix until light and
fluffy, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the eggs one at a time, making sure that the first
egg is thoroughly incorporated before adding the second one. Add the
vanilla and blend well. Add all of the flour and mix on low until the dough
just comes together.

Remove the bowl from the mixer, add the chocolate chips, and fold in by
hand. Turn the dough out onto a piece of plastic wrap, wrap, and chill in the
refrigerator for at least 1 hour.

Position the racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven and preheat the
oven to 375°F. (190°C.). Line two baking sheets with parchment paper.

Use a ¾-ounce ice cream scoop or a tablespoon to portion the dough into
1½-tablespoon balls and place them about 2 inches apart on the baking
sheets. Bake for 7 to 9 minutes, rotating the pans halfway through, until the
cookies are golden brown and just set. Let cool on the pans for 10 minutes,
then transfer to a wire rack to cool completely.
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The cookies can be stored in an airtight container for up to 1 week.

Scoops of Classic Chocolate


Just-mixed Classic Chocolate
Chip Cookie dough on a baking
Chip Cookie dough.
sheet, ready to be baked.

Classic Chocolate Chip Cookies cooling on a wire rack.


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An inside look at the Classic Chocolate Chip Cookie.


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chewy chocolate chip cookies


makes about 3 dozen cookies

Chocolate chip cookies range from thin and flat to


thick and chewy. Everybody has a preference, and for
years we were partial to one recipe (see here). But
sometimes Aki craved something a little bit chewier.
So when we read about a recipe using melted butter
that made super-chewy sugar cookies, it made perfect
sense to adapt it to chocolate chip cookies. And once
you’re melting the butter, it’s a small step to brown it,
which adds a great depth of flavor to the cookies.
Then, because browning the butter removes the liquid
from the fat, we added a bit of milk. Adding the milk
to the hot butter causes it to turn brown and curdle,
but although it looks alarming, the cookies have an
addictive butterscotch flavor that keeps you reaching
for just one more. We guarantee these will be some of
the best chocolate chip cookies you’ve ever tasted.
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The dough is quickly stirred together and then chilled


overnight. If you like, you can scoop the cookies
before chilling, laying them out on a single baking
sheet. We like to bake one pan of these at a time and
keep the extra in the freezer for when a craving hits.
16 tablespoons (2 sticks) / 8 ounces / 225 grams unsalted butter, sliced
2 tablespoons / 33 grams whole milk
3 tablespoons / 12 grams Toasted Milk Powder (here; optional)
3 cups / 390 grams Gluten-Free Flour Blend (What IiF Flour 3.0, here,
Batch-3 Flour, here, or Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend, here)
1 teaspoon / 5 grams baking soda
1 teaspoon / 6 grams fine sea salt
1 cup / 200 grams granulated sugar
1 cup (packed) / 213 grams dark brown sugar
1 teaspoon / 4 grams vanilla paste or pure vanilla extract
2 large eggs, at room temperature
1 large egg yolk, at room temperature
3 cups / 510 grams premium chocolate chips (we use Ghirardelli
bittersweet chocolate chips)

Put the butter into a medium saucepan and cook over medium-high heat,
stirring constantly, until it melts, begins to turn golden brown, and gives off
a nutty aroma. Remove from the heat and stir in the milk and toasted milk
solids, if using. The mixture will be a deep golden liquid with a mass of
milk solids on the bottom; it will look curdled and slightly broken. Let cool
to room temperature.

Put the flour, baking soda, and salt in a large bowl and whisk to blend.

Add the granulated sugar, brown sugar, vanilla, eggs, and yolk to the pan of
melted butter and stir to blend. Pour into the flour mixture and stir with a
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rubber spatula or wooden spoon until about halfway blended. Add the
chocolate chips and fold the mixture together until fully blended.

Transfer the dough to a covered container and refrigerate overnight.


Alternatively, use a ¾-ounce scoop or small spoon to portion the dough into
generous 1½-tablespoon balls and lay them out on a parchment-lined
baking sheet. Cover and chill overnight; or portion and freeze on the baking
sheet until frozen solid. Frozen cookie dough may be kept in a covered
container for up to 1 month.

Position the racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven and preheat
oven to 350°F.(180°C.). Line two baking sheets with parchment paper.

If you haven’t already done so, use a ¾-ounce scoop or spoon to portion the
dough into generous 1½-tablespoon balls. In either case, lay the cookies out
on the parchment-lined pans, leaving about 2 inches between them. (If the
cookies are frozen, let them defrost at room temperature for 30 minutes
before baking.)

Bake the cookies for 10 minutes, then rotate the pans and bake for an
additional 5 to 7 minutes, until the cookies are set and golden brown. Let
cool on the pans for at least 10 minutes before serving.

The cooled cookies can be stored in an airtight container for up to 1 week.

Just-mixed Chewy Chocolate Scoops of Chewy Chocolate Chip


Chip Cookie dough (here). Cookie dough on a baking sheet,
ready to be baked.
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A tray of Chewy Chocolate Chip A broken Chewy Chocolate Chip


Cookies, hot out of the oven. Cookie.
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A plate of Chewy Chocolate Chip Cookies (here) ready to be devoured.


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snickerdoodles
makes about 3 dozen cookies

Snickerdoodles are a holiday favorite in our house.


While their cinnamon-sweetness can be appreciated
at any time of year, our Christmas cookie tin is never
without them. Although it may seem strange to put
the butter, sugar, eggs, and vanilla in the mixer all at
the same time, and it will look like a mess in the
beginning, it comes together beautifully. Our original
family recipe used a combination of butter and
shortening, but shortening leaves a funny aftertaste,
so our snickerdoodles are 100-percent butter, and all
the more flavorful for the change.
1½ cups / 300 grams sugar
16 tablespoons (2 sticks) / 8 ounces / 225 grams unsalted butter, at room
temperature
2 large eggs, at room temperature
½ teaspoon / 2 grams vanilla paste or pure vanilla extract
3 cups / 390 grams Gluten-Free Flour Blend (What IiF Flour 3.0, here,
Batch-3 Flour, here, or Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend, here)
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1 tablespoon / 18 grams baking powder


¾ teaspoon / 4.5 grams fine sea salt

coating
¼ cup / 50 grams sugar
2 teaspoons / 4 grams ground cinnamon

Position the racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven and preheat the
oven to 400°F. (205°C.). Line two baking sheets with parchment paper.

Put the sugar, butter, eggs, and vanilla in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted
with the paddle attachment (or use a hand mixer) and mix on low until well
blended.

Whisk together the flour, baking powder, and salt in a bowl and stir into the
butter mixture.

Mix the sugar and cinnamon for rolling in a small bowl.

Use a ¾-ounce scoop to portion the dough into generous 1½-tablespoon


balls, roll each one in the cinnamon sugar, and lay out on the prepared pans,
leaving 2 inches between them. Bake for 10 minutes, rotating the pans
halfway through, or until just set and turning golden brown around the
edges.

Let the cookies cool for 10 minutes on the pans, then transfer to a wire rack
to cool completely.

The snickerdoodles can be kept in an airtight container for up to 1 week.

Roll the balls of Snickerdoodle Baked Snickerdoodles fresh


dough in cinnamon sugar before from the oven.
laying them out on sheet pans.
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A plate of tender-crisp Snickerdoodles with a slightly crunchy coating of


cinnamon sugar.
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peanut butter cookies


makes about 3 dozen cookies

These are addictive cookies. The peanut butter gives


them body and richness, but they have a tender
texture as you sink your teeth into one, and the
peanut butter flavor lingers with a haunting
sweetness on the back of your palate. If you are a
chocolate lover, these are easily enriched with
chocolate chips, chopped Cadbury Mini Eggs, or
Heath Bar bits, if that’s how you roll.
16 tablespoons (2 sticks) / 8 ounces / 225 grams unsalted butter, diced,
at room temperature
1¼ cups / 250 grams granulated sugar
1¼ cups (packed) / 258 grams dark brown sugar
1 teaspoon / 6 grams fine sea salt
1 teaspoon / 5 grams baking soda
1 cup / 270 grams creamy peanut butter, preferably organic
1 teaspoon / 4 grams vanilla paste or pure vanilla extract
3 large eggs, at room temperature
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2½ cups / 325 grams Gluten-Free Flour Blend (What IiF Flour 3.0,
here, Batch-3 Flour, here, or Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend, here)

Position the racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven and preheat the
oven to 325°F. (163°C.). Line two baking sheets with parchment paper.

Put the butter, both sugars, salt, and baking soda in the bowl of a stand
mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or use a hand mixer) and mix on
low until well blended. Add the peanut butter and vanilla and mix until well
blended. Add the eggs one at a time, mixing until each is fully incorporated.
Add the flour and mix on low until fully absorbed.

Use a ¾-ounce scoop to portion the dough into generous 1½-tablespoon


balls and place them on the prepared pans, leaving about 2 inches between
them. Use a wet fork to gently press down on each one, creating a crisscross
pattern on the top of the cookie.

Bake for 15 to 18 minutes, rotating the pans halfway through, until the
cookies are just set and the edges are golden brown. Let cool for 5 minutes
on the pans before transferring to a rack to cool completely. The cookies
can be stored in an airtight container for up to 1 week.
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Cooling Peanut Butter Cookies on a sheet pan.


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jam cookies
makes about 4 dozen cookies

These cookies are reminiscent of the jam-filled


cookies made by Pepperidge Farm. They are buttery
and sweet and utterly addictive. You can use your
favorite jam. We like to make these with a variety of
flavors around the holidays, so they are one cookie
that is guaranteed to appeal to almost everyone.
16 tablespoons (2 sticks) / 8 ounces / 225 grams unsalted butter, at room
temperature
1 cup / 200 grams sugar
½ teaspoon / 3 grams baking powder
½ teaspoon / 3 grams fine sea salt
1 large egg
1 teaspoon / 4 grams vanilla paste or pure vanilla extract
2¾ cups / 360 grams Gluten-Free Flour Blend (What IiF Flour 3.0,
here, Batch-3 Flour, here, or Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend, here)
1 cup / 340 grams fruit jam

Position the racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven and preheat the
oven to 300°F. (150°C.). Line two baking sheets with parchment paper.
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Put the butter, sugar, baking powder, and salt in the bowl of a stand mixer
fitted with the paddle attachment (or use a hand mixer) and beat on low
until light and creamy. Add the egg and mix until it is fully incorporated.
Add the vanilla and mix to incorporate. Add all of the flour and mix on low
until it is fully absorbed, about a minute; the dough will be stiff.

Use a ¾-ounce scoop to portion the dough into generous 1½-tablespoon


balls and place them on the prepared pans, leaving 2 inches of space
between them. Use the back of a round ¼-teaspoon measuring spoon to
press down the center of each cookie, forming a small well for the jam. Put
¼ teaspoon jam in the center of each cookie.

Bake for 20 to 22 minutes, rotating the pans halfway through, until the
cookies are just set and golden brown around the edges. Let cool on the
pans for 10 minutes, then transfer to a rack to cool completely.

The cookies can be stored in an airtight container for up to 1 week.


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Shaping Jam Cookies: Use the back of a round measuring spoon to make
the indentation and then use the front to scoop the right amount of jam
for filling.
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Baked Jam Cookies, cooling on a sheet pan.


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stroopwafels
makes about 15 cookies

These are very special cookies, native to the


Netherlands. Their name translates as “syrup
waffles,” and they are traditionally made by
sandwiching two wafer cookies around a caramel
filling. You will need a stroopwafel, krumkake, or
Belgian cookie iron for these; pizzelle makers result
in cookies that are too thick. You can find krumkake
irons and Belgian cookie irons at specialty kitchen
stores and online.
We make our caramel with maple syrup, and we add
a bit of corn syrup, an invert sugar, to prevent
crystallization, along with some cream, so that
finished caramel is smooth and spreadable. As the
cookies sit, they soften into a cake-like texture around
the chewy filling. These are large cookies, so you
only really need one per person.
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cookie dough
2¼ cups / 295 grams Gluten-Free Flour Blend (What IiF Flour 3.0,
here, Batch-3 Flour, here, or Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend, here)
½ cup (packed) / 105 grams light brown sugar
⅜ teaspoon / 2.25 grams fine sea salt
¼ teaspoon / 0.5 gram ground cinnamon
8 tablespoons / 4 ounces / 113 grams unsalted butter
1 large egg
½ cup / 112.5 grams water

maple caramel filling


1 cup / 240 grams pure maple syrup, preferably Grade B
1 tablespoon + 1 teaspoon / 25 grams light corn syrup
4 tablespoons / 2 ounces / 56 grams cold unsalted butter, diced
¼ teaspoon / 1.5 grams fine sea salt
¼ cup / 60 grams heavy cream

Special Equipment: Stroopwafel or krumkake iron

To make the dough, put the flour, brown sugar, salt, and cinnamon in a food
processor and pulse to blend. Add the butter and pulse a few times, until the
mixture looks like coarse meal.

Whisk together the egg and water in a small bowl, then pour into the flour
mixture and pulse until the mixture just comes together into a dough.

Turn it out onto a clean countertop and knead it 2 or 3 times. Put the dough
in a bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and let rest for 30 minutes at room
temperature. (The dough can also be wrapped in plastic wrap and
refrigerated overnight.)

To make the caramel, put the maple syrup, corn syrup, butter, and salt in a
2-quart saucepan, set over medium heat, and cook, without stirring, until it
reaches 245°F. (118°C.). The bubbles will look thick and viscous.
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Remove the pan from the heat and whisk in the cream. Transfer the caramel
to a heatproof bowl and let cool to room temperature.

Preheat your stroopwafel, krumkake, or Belgian cookie iron according to


the manufacturer’s instructions.

Weigh out 40-gram portions (about 2 tablespoons) of the dough and roll
them into small balls.

Bake the cookies in the iron following the manufacturer’s directions. (Our
krumkake iron takes 1½ minutes to cook the stroopwafels to a uniform
golden brown.) While the cookies are still warm from the iron, use a
serrated knife to split each one in half. Spread the cut of one half with a thin
layer of caramel and top with the other half. Then use a 4-inch round cutter
to punch out each cookie into a neat circle. (Use the scraps for snacks or ice
cream mix-ins.) Let the cookies cool completely on racks. Repeat until all
of the cookies are made.

The cookies can be stored in an airtight container for up to 3 days.

Shape the Stroopwafel dough Baked Stroopwafels on a wire


(here) by rolling portions into rack, stuffed and ready to be
balls on a cutting board. trimmed.
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Use a round cookie cutter to trim the Stroopwafels. Save the


trimmings for snacks.
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Stroopwafels (here) take on a cake-like texture around the chewy maple


filling.
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arnhem biscuits
makes about 4 dozen cookies

We first encountered a recipe for Arnhem biscuits in


John Thorne’s book Pot on the Fire. His description
led Aki to seek out Roald Dahl’s book Memories with
Food at Gipsy House. His description of a book
signing in Holland and the special cookies delivered
by a local baker made us itch to try them out. We
have no doubt that these gluten-free cookies are
different from the ones Dahl consumed so long ago.
Still, there are similarities. These cookies are thin
and crunchy, made with a flaky unsweetened dough
coated in caramelized sugar. The overnight
fermentation of the yeast gives them a deep, haunting
flavor. Most important, the cookies are addictive and
your fingers will stray back to the cookie plate again
and again. That’s the mark of a great cookie.
1¾ cups / 225 grams / Gluten-Free Flour Blend (What IiF Flour 3.0,
here, Batch-3 Flour, here, or Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend, here)
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¼ teaspoon / 1.5 grams fine sea salt


1 teaspoon / 3 grams instant yeast
½ cup + 1 tablespoon / 150 grams whole milk
8 tablespoons / 4 ounces / 113 grams unsalted butter, sliced, at room
temperature
About ½ cup / 100 grams raw sugar for rolling out the dough

Put the flour and salt in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle
attachment (or use a hand mixer).

Stir the yeast into the milk in a small bowl until dissolved. Pour into the
flour and mix on medium-low until the mixture comes together. Increase the
speed to medium and begin adding the butter 1 or 2 pieces at a time, making
sure that each piece is absorbed before adding another. When all of the
butter has been incorporated, transfer the dough to a covered container and
let rise at room temperature for 4 hours.

Put the dough on a 13-by-18-inch piece of parchment paper and top with
another sheet of parchment paper. Roll out to a rectangle about 10 by 12
inches and about ⅛ inch thick.

Slide the dough onto 13-by-18-inch baking sheet and refrigerate overnight.

Remove the top piece of parchment and sprinkle raw sugar generously over
the dough. Put the paper back on and flip the dough over. Remove the
parchment paper and scatter raw sugar over this side as well. Replace the
paper and roll out the dough a few times to press the sugar into the dough.

Using a fluted pastry cutter, cut the dough into 1-by-2-inch rectangles.
Transfer the cookies to the lined pans, leaving about 1 inch of space
between them.

Cover with plastic wrap and let the cookies proof for 1 hour. They will be
slightly puffy, but they will not rise very much.

Position the racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven and preheat the
oven to 275°F. (135°C.). Line two baking sheets with parchment paper.
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Remove the plastic wrap and bake the cookies for 60 to 75 minutes, rotating
the pans halfway through, until the cookies are a very deep golden brown;
this caramelization is a big part of the flavor development. Let the cookies
cool for 10 minutes, then loosen them from the paper and enjoy, or cool
completely on racks.

The cookies can be stored in an airtight container for up to 1 week.

Arnhem Biscuit dough, rolled Caramelized, sugar-crusted


out, covered with raw sugar, and Arnhem Biscuits, cooling on a
cut with a fluted cutter. sheet pan.
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Crunchy, flaky, sugar-coated Arnhem Biscuits.


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cut-out sugar cookies


makes about 5 dozen 2- to 3-inch cookies

This is a great recipe to make with kids. The dough is


mixed together and kneaded by hand. After a brief
rest in the refrigerator you roll out the dough, cut out
shapes, and decorate them with colored sugar, or
whatever suits your fancy. The cookies mature
overnight—the texture softens and the vanilla flavor
intensifies—so they taste even better the second day,
making them perfect for classroom bake sales and
gifts. During the holidays, you can cut out the centers
and fill them with crushed hard candy to make
stained glass cookies, or top them with chopped
peppermints. Plain cookies can be frosted or dipped
in chocolate. The sugar or frosting on top adds most
of the sweetness to create the perfect crisp/tender
cookie.
3¼ cups / 422.5 grams Gluten-Free Flour Blend (What IiF Flour 3.0,
here, Batch-3 Flour, here, or Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend, here)
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1 teaspoon / 6 grams baking powder


1 teaspoon / 5 grams baking soda
½ teaspoon / 3 grams fine sea salt
16 tablespoons (2 sticks) / 8 ounces / 225 grams unsalted butter, at room
temperature
2 large eggs, at room temperature
¾ cup / 150 grams sugar
1 teaspoon / 4 grams vanilla paste or pure vanilla extract
Colored sugar, crushed candy, nuts, or sprinkles, for decorating

Put the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt in a large bowl and
whisk to blend. Use a fork to cut in the butter until the mixture is coarse and
crumbly.

Whisk together the eggs, sugar, and vanilla in a medium bowl until light.
Make a well in the center of the flour mixture and pour in the egg mixture.
Mix with your fingers, working from the center outward, until a slightly
sticky dough forms.

Turn the dough out onto a clean countertop and knead a few times, until
smooth. Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour, and up to 2
days.

Position the racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven and preheat the
oven to 375°F. (190°C.). Line two baking sheets with parchment paper.

Divide the dough into thirds. Roll out one piece at a time, keeping the
remaining dough in the refrigerator. Roll the dough out on a lightly floured
surface until it is rough rectangle, about ⅛ inch thick. Cut out shapes with
cookie cutters and lay them out on the prepared baking sheets, leaving 1
inch of space between them. Decorate with colored sugar, candy, nuts, or
sprinkles.

Bake for 8 to 11 minutes, rotating the pans halfway through, until the
cookies are puffed, pale, and just set, with golden brown edges. Transfer to
wire racks to cool.
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The cookies can be stored in an airtight container for up to 1 week.

Decorated Cut-Out Sugar Cookies in a tin for sharing.


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chocolate snaps
makes about 4 dozen cookies

As a kid, Aki was very fond of the small boxes of


chocolate cookies that she could buy at the candy
store. They were dry, unfrosted, and crunchy, and
they tasted intensely of chocolate. Over the years, the
cookies disappeared (the closest substitute was Oreos
without their cream filling), and it became her
mission to re-create them. These chocolate snaps are
the culmination of that mission. They have a deep
chocolate flavor and are perfect as is, though you
could sandwich them together with buttercream or
layer them with whipped cream for an icebox cake.
They are also perfect for cookie crumb crusts.
1¼ cups / 165 grams Gluten-Free Flour Blend (What IiF Flour 3.0,
here, Batch-3 Flour, here, or Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend, here)
1½ cups /300 grams sugar
½ cup / 60 grams natural cocoa powder (use Dutch-process or King
Arthur black cocoa if you want darker cookies)
1 tablespoon / 5 grams baking soda
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¼ teaspoon / 1.5 grams baking powder


¼ teaspoon /1.5 grams fine sea salt
10 tablesoons / 5 ounces / 142 grams cold unsalted butter, diced
1 large egg
1 teaspoon / 4 grams vanilla paste or pure vanilla extract

Position the racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven and preheat the
oven to 375°F. (190°C.). Line two baking sheets with parchment paper.

Put the flour, sugar, cocoa, baking soda, baking powder, and salt in the bowl
of a food processor and pulse to blend. Add the butter and pulse until the
mixture resembles coarse meal, about 10 seconds. Add the egg and vanilla
and pulse until a crumbly dough forms.

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured countertop and knead a few times
to make sure everything has come together. Using a small scoop or a
measuring spoon, portion the dough into teaspoon-sized balls and lay them
out on the parchment-lined baking sheets, leaving 2 inches of space
between them. Use the bottom of a glass or the palm of your hand to gently
flatten each ball into a round approximately ½ inch thick.

Bake for 10 minutes, rotating the pans halfway through, or until the cookies
are completely set and the tops have acquired a network of cracks. Let cool
completely on a rack.

The cookies can be stored in an airtight container for up to 1 week.

Chocolate Snap dough just Use a 1 tablespoon ice-cream


mixed in the food processor. scoop to portion the cookie
dough onto a sheet pan lined
with parchment paper.
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Flatten the cookies slightly before baking.


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Chocolate Snaps (here) can be enjoyed as is, or used to make Cookie


Crepe Cake (here).
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cookie crepe cake


makes one 8-inch cake

Crepe cakes are thing of beauty: many layers of


crepes separated by whipped cream. As they sit in the
refrigerator, the flavors and textures slowly meld,
creating one fabulous whole. We blend some of the
cookies with melted butter to make cookies curls for
garnishing the top of the cake. We like to use our
Chocolate Snaps for this recipe, but you can
substitute any favorite cookie. We’ve tried this with
everything from Oreos to peanut butter cookies and
they all work. Depending on the cookie you choose,
you can also flavor the whipped cream, choosing the
variation here–here that best suits your cake. No
matter what, this is an impressive cake but it is easily
put together even by those who have a fear of
frosting.
cookie curls
14 ounces (just over ½ batch)/ 400 grams Chocolate Snaps (here)
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8 tablespoons / 4 ounces / 113 grams unsalted butter

crepes
12¼ ounces (just under ½ batch) / 350 grams Chocolate Snaps
1¾ cups / 400 grams whole milk
3 large eggs
½ cup / 75 grams Gluten-Free Flour Blend (What IiF Flour 3.0, here,
Batch-3 Flour, here, or Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend, here)

whipped cream
2½ cups / 600 grams heavy cream
½ cup + 2 tablespoons / 120 grams granulated sugar
¼ cup / 30 grams powdered sugar
½ teaspoon / 3 grams fine sea salt

To make the curls, put the cookies into a blender. Melt the butter in a small
saucepan over medium heat, then continue to cook it until it stops sizzling
and the butter solids begin to brown.

Pour the hot butter into the blender. Turn the blender on low, gradually
increase the speed to medium-high, and blend until smooth, about 3
minutes. Pour the cookie mixture into a small shallow plastic storage
container.

Freeze the cookie mixture for at least 4 hours, until frozen solid.

Pop the cookie mixture out of the container. Set a mandoline over a chilled
bowl and use it to shave the frozen block into curls, or shave the block with
a vegetable peeler. Cover and reserve in the freezer.

To make the crepes, put the cookies, milk, eggs, and flour into a blender.
Turn on low, gradually increase the speed to high, and blend until the batter
is a deep, dark gray and smooth. Stop occasionally and use a rubber spatula
to scrape the batter off the sides of the blender.
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Pour the batter into a small deep bowl. Heat an 8-inch nonstick crepe pan or
skillet over medium heat until hot. Using a 2-ounce ladle, pour batter into
the pan and tilt the pan so the batter coats the bottom evenly. Put the pan
back on the heat and cook until the crepe is set, about 10 seconds. Flip the
crepe and cook for 2 to 3 seconds more, until just set, then flip it out onto a
rack. Repeat with the remaining batter; you should have about 20 crepes.
Once cool, the crepes can be stacked on a plate and covered with plastic
wrap until ready to use.

To make the whipped cream, put the cream, granulated sugar, powdered
sugar, and salt in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment
(or use a hand mixer) and whip until the cream just holds stiff peaks.

To assemble the cake, place one crepe on a large plate. Put a large spoonful
of whipped cream on the crepe and use an offset spatula to spread the cream
evenly in a thin layer over the crepe. Put another crepe on the cream and
repeat. Continue until all the crepes are used, reserving one large spoonful
of whipped cream to decorate the cake. Be sure to keep the layers as even as
possible, and do not top the last crepe with cream. Cover the cake loosely
with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 4 hours, and up to 24 hours, so
the cake can set up.

When ready to serve, remove the crepe cake from the refrigerator. Spread
the reserved spoonful of cream over the top of the cake. Decorate the top
generously with the cookie curls. Serve immediately, using a serrated knife
to cut the cake. Any leftovers can be kept, covered, in the refrigerator for up
to 5 days.

A bowl full of chocolate snap Place the whole cookies and


curls. crepe ingredients in a blender.
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Chocolate Snaps pureed into


The crepe batter should be dark
crepe batter, and cooked into
gray, smooth, and a little less
crepes for the Cookie Crepe
viscous than pancake batter.
Cake.
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Chocolate Snap Cookie Crepe Cake, layered with whipped cream and
chocolate cookie curls.
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maple oatmeal-raisin cookies


makes about 1 dozen cookies

These are soft, chewy oatmeal raisin cookies. The


surprise is the maple flavor. It gives them a little
something special. We let the batter rest for 30
minutes before baking so that the flour hydrates and
the oats soften. These cookies have a moist, tender
texture with random bursts of sweetness from the
raisins. We like to eat them still warm from the oven
with warm apple cider or straight out of the cookie
jar with coffee for breakfast on the run.
8 tablespoons / 4 ounces / 113 grams unsalted butter, sliced
½ cup / 120 grams pure maple syrup, preferably Grade B
½ cup / 85 grams raisins
½ cup / 75 grams Gluten-Free Flour Blend (What IiF Flour 3.0, here,
Batch-3 Flour, here, or Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend, here)
½ cup / 50 grams rolled oats
¼ teaspoon / 1.5 grams fine sea salt

Put the butter in a large glass measuring cup or microwave-safe bowl and
microwave for 1 minute, or until it melts completely. Add the maple syrup,
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raisins, flour, oats, and salt and stir to blend. Set the batter aside to hydrate
for 30 minutes at room temperature; it will thicken to the texture of peanut
butter.

Position the racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven and preheat the
oven to 350°F. (180°C.). Line two baking sheets with parchment paper.

Use a ¾-ounce scoop or a measuring spoon to portion the dough into


generous 1½ tablespoon balls and place them approximately 2 inches apart
on the prepared baking sheets. Bake for 7 to 9 minutes, rotating the pans
halfway through, until just set and brown around the edges. Let cool for 5
minutes, then transfer to a wire rack to cool completely.

The cookies can be stored in an airtight container for up to 1 week.


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oatmeal lace cookies


makes about 3 dozen cookies

These are “the other” oatmeal cookies—they are as


elegant as the Maple Oatmeal-Raisin Cookies (here)
are homespun. They are basically a layer of toasted
oats held together by a lacy web of caramelized
butter and sugar. We use them to garnish ice cream
or to serve alongside coffee. If you work quickly, you
can lift them from the pan while they are still hot and
wrap them around the handle of a wooden spoon to
make “cigarettes,” or lay them over a rolling pin,
and let them harden in those shapes. You can dip
them in chocolate or stuff them with whipped cream.
The broken ones are delicious scattered over ice
cream, or you could what we do and save them for a
cook’s treat.
12 tablespoons (1½ sticks) / 6 ounces / 170 grams unsalted butter,
melted and cooled
1½ cups / 150 grams rolled oats
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1¾ cups / 175 grams sugar


¾ tablespoon / 7 grams Gluten-Free Flour Blend (What IiF Flour 3.0,
here, Batch-3 Flour, here, or Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend, here)
¼ teaspoon / 1.5 grams fine sea salt
1 teaspoon / 4 grams vanilla paste or pure vanilla extract
1 large egg

Position the racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven and preheat the
oven to 325°F. (165°C.). Line two baking sheets with parchment paper.

Put the melted butter, oats, sugar, flour, salt, and vanilla in large bowl and
mix with a rubber spatula to blend well. Add the egg, mixing well.

Use a ¾-ounce scoop to portion the dough into generous 1½-tablespoon


balls and place them on the prepared baking sheets, leaving 2 inches of
space between them. Flatten them gently with a small offset spatula to a
thickness of about ¼ inch.

Bake for 10 minutes, then rotate the pans and bake for an additional 8
minutes, or until the cookies are golden brown. Let cool for 5 minutes, then
use a spatula to transfer the cookies to a rack to cool completely.

The cookies can be kept in an airtight container for up to a week.

NOTE: If you want curved cookies, bake only one sheet of cookies at a
time. As soon as they come out of the oven, use an offset spatula to slide the
hot cookies off the baking sheet and drape them over a rolling pin or wine
bottle to cool. Or wrap them up around a wooden spoon handle or a
cannoli mold to make cylinders. They will firm up and hold their shape once
cool.
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lemon sablés
makes 3 dozen cookies

This recipe was inspired by cookbook author and


cookie expert Dorie Greenspan. She makes amazing
sablés that inspired us to make our own gluten-free
version. These are like shortbread cookies, only
better. They have a fine, sandy texture and a delicate
crunch. We love their simplicity. The flavors of butter
and vanilla are clear and strong, with just a hint of
nuttiness from the gluten-free blend. The toasted milk
solids help amplify the butter, giving it the essence of
browning while preserving its sweet flavor. It’s a
small accent that makes all the difference.
16 tablespoons (2 sticks) / 8 ounces / 225 grams unsalted butter, at room
temperature
½ cup / 100 grams granulated sugar
¼ cup / 30 grams powdered sugar
½ teaspoon / 3 grams fine sea salt
1 large egg
3 tablespoons / 45 grams heavy cream
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1 teaspoon / 5 grams vanilla paste or pure vanilla extract


1½ tablespoons / 6 grams Toasted Milk Powder (here)
2¼ cups + 1 tablespoon / 300 grams Gluten-Free Flour Blend (What IiF
Flour 3.0, here, Batch-3 Flour, here, or Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend,
here)
⅔ cup / 150 grams raw sugar
Grated zest of 4 lemons

Put the butter, granulated sugar, powdered sugar, and salt in a the bowl of a
stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or use a hand mixer) and mix
on low to blend, then increase the speed to medium and mix until the
mixture is fluffy and light in color. Add the egg, heavy cream, and vanilla
paste and mix until incorporated. Add the toasted milk solids and flour and
mix on low, gradually increasing the speed to medium, until the flour is
absorbed. Increase the speed to high and beat until the dough is smooth.

Put a 24-inch-long piece of plastic wrap on the counter. Spoon the dough
down the center of the plastic wrap. Using the plastic wrap, form the dough
into a cylinder approximately 18 inches long and 2 inches in diameter, then
wrap it in the plastic, twist the ends to seal, and refrigerate for at least 4
hours to firm up.

Put the raw sugar and lemon zest into a bowl and stir to distribute the lemon
zest evenly. Cover and set aside.

Put a 20-inch-long piece of parchment paper on the counter and sprinkle the
lemon sugar over the paper. Unwrap the chilled dough and roll the dough
over the sugar, pressing firmly so the sugar adheres to it and it is completely
crusted in lemon sugar. Wrap the log tightly in the plastic wrap and
refrigerate for at least 1 hour.

Position the racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven and preheat the
oven to 350°F. (180°C.). Line two baking sheets with parchment paper.

Unwrap the cookie dough and cut the cylinder into ½-inch slices. Arrange
the cookies approximately 2 inches apart on the prepared baking sheets.
Bake for 20 minutes, until they are just set and golden brown around the
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edges. Remove the cookies from the oven and let them cool completely on
the pans.

The sablés can be stored in an airtight container for up to 1 week.

Roll the logs of Sablé dough in


Just mixed Sablé dough, ready to
lemon sugar to create crunchy
be rolled into logs.
edges.

Lemon Sablé dough rolled in sugar, ready to be sliced.


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Baked Lemon Sablés (here) cooling on a sheet pan.


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butterballs
makes about 3 dozen cookies

These are Aki’s mom’s favorite cookies. Aki’s Italian


aunts in Pittsburgh made them every Christmas and
Easter. They belong to a large family of rich nut
cookies, including Mexican wedding cakes, almond
or pecan crescent cookies, and kourabiedes, that are
rolled in powdered sugar. The dough is very similar
to a shortbread dough, with the addition of ground
walnuts. These cookies are soft and delicate, prone to
crumbling if held too tightly. The original recipe
rolled the warm cookies in powdered sugar; Alex
likes them with a lighter dusting of powdered sugar.
Both methods are included below, so you can choose
the one you prefer. These cookies are slightly messy
to eat, which induces people to laugh, lick their
fingers, and have fun with their dessert.
1 cup / 80 grams walnuts, toasted and cooled
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2⅓ cups / 300 grams Gluten-Free Flour Blend (What IiF Flour 3.0,
here, Batch-3 Flour, here, or Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend, here)
¾ teaspoon / 4.5 grams fine sea salt
¼ teaspoon / 0.25 gram ground mace
16 tablespoons (2 sticks) / 8 ounces / 225 grams unsalted butter, at room
temperature
½ cup / 56 grams powdered sugar
2 teaspoons / 8 grams vanilla paste or pure vanilla extract
2 cups / 240 grams powdered sugar for rolling

Put the walnuts, flour, salt, and mace in a food processor and pulse to grind
the nuts to a fine powder. Pour out onto a sheet of parchment or into a bowl.
Put the butter and powdered sugar in the food processor and pulse 4 or 5
times, until fully combined. Add the vanilla and pulse 2 or 3 times to blend.
Add the flour mixture and pulse until a dough forms.

Transfer the dough to a covered container and refrigerate for at least 1 hour.

Position the racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven and preheat the
oven to 325°F. (160°C.). Line two baking sheets with parchment paper.

Use a ¾-ounce scoop to portion the dough into generous 1½-tablespoon


balls and place them on the prepared baking sheets, leaving approximately 2
inches between them. Bake for 18 minutes, or until the cookies are set and
just golden brown around the very edges. Remove from the oven and
transfer to a rack to cool for 10 minutes.

Lay the cookies out on a cool baking sheet and either roll them in a bowl of
the powdered sugar or sift the powdered sugar over the warm cookies. Cool
completely.

The cookies will keep in an airtight container at room temperature for up to


a week.
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Caramelized, roasted walnuts for Portion the Butterballs with an


Butterballs. ice cream scoop.
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Remove the powdered sugar–dusted Butterballs from the tray.


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lemon angeletti
makes about 5½ dozen cookies

When we were testing recipes for this book, Aki was


working on a chewy lemon cookie. Instead, she ended
up with these small soft cookies, rich with lemon and
vanilla. She liked these even better than her original
vision because they resemble bites of frosted cake.
They are the ultimate Italian angeletti, soft domes of
sweet, cakey cookies coated in white icing, but they
are filled with bright lemon flavor. Try them, and they
just might become one of your favorite cookies too.
cookies
2 cups / 400 grams sugar
16 tablespoons (2 sticks) / 8 ounces / 225 grams unsalted butter, at room
temperature
1 tablespoon / 18 grams baking powder
1 teaspoon / 6 grams fine sea salt
3 large eggs, at room temperature
½ teaspoon / 2.5 grams lemon oil or lemon extract
½ teaspoon / 2 grams vanilla paste or pure vanilla extract
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5 cups / 650 grams Gluten-Free Flour Blend (What IiF Flour 3.0, here,
Batch-3 Flour, here, or Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend, here)
1 cup whole milk, at room temperature

lemon frosting
2 cups / 225 grams powdered sugar
Grated zest of 1 lemon
2 tablespoons / 28 grams fresh lemon juice
4 tablespoons / 2 ounces / 56 grams unsalted butter, sliced, at room
temperature

Position the racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven and preheat the
oven to 375°F. (190°C.). Line two baking sheets with parchment paper.

To make the cookies, put the sugar, butter, baking powder, and salt in the
bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or use a hand
mixer) and beat on low until light and creamy, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the eggs
one at a time, making sure each egg is fully incorporated before adding the
next. Scrape down the sides of the bowl as needed. Add the lemon oil and
vanilla and mix to incorporate. Add all of the flour and mix on low until it is
absorbed, then slowly drizzle in the milk, with mixer running, until
incorporated. Remove the bowl from the mixer and use a rubber spatula to
give the dough a final mix.

Use a ¾-ounce scoop to portion the dough into generous 1½-tablespoon


balls and place them on the prepared pans, leaving approximately 2 inches
between them. Bake for 12 minutes, or until the tops are set but still pale
and the bottom edges are golden brown.

While the cookies are in the oven, make the frosting: Put the powdered
sugar, lemon zest, lemon juice, and butter in a small bowl and mix with a
whisk or rubber spatula until smooth.

When the cookies come out of the oven, put a small dollop of frosting on
top of each one, then go back as it softens and spread it gently over the top
of the cookie. Let cool completely on a rack.
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The cookies will keep in an airtight container at room temperature for up to


a week.

Lemon Angeletti, soft little cake cookies, frosted and cooling.


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biscotti with pistachios and dried


cherries
makes about 3 dozen cookies

Aki learned how to make biscotti one summer when


we worked on Martha’s Vineyard. The owner of the
restaurant was Italian, and it was one Aki’s duties as
pastry chef to be sure that the biscotti jar was filled
at all times. This was not an easy task, because the
employees loved them as much as the guests. Good
biscotti are light and dry, made for dunking. They
should crumble slightly and never be tough or chewy.
Gluten-free flour is perfect for biscotti, and here the
combination of dried sour cherries and pistachios is
a match made in heaven.
16 tablespoons (2 sticks) / 8 ounces / 225 grams cold unsalted butter,
diced
1½ cups / 300 grams sugar
1 teaspoon / 6 grams fine sea salt
4 large eggs, cold
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1 teaspoon / 4 grams vanilla paste or pure vanilla extract


4 cups / 520 grams Gluten-Free Flour Blend (What IiF Flour 3.0, here,
Batch-3 Flour, here, or Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend, here)
1 tablespoon / 18 grams baking powder
1 cup / 120 grams salted roasted pistachios
½ cup / 65 grams dried sour cherries

Preheat the oven to 350°F. (180°C.). Line a baking sheet with parchment
paper.

Put the butter, sugar, and salt in a food processor and pulse just to blend; the
mixture should still look somewhat chunky. Add the eggs one at a time,
pulsing after each addition until fully incorporated. Add the vanilla and
pulse to blend. The mixture will look somewhat light and fluffy.

Whisk together the flour and baking powder, add to the food processor, and
pulse until the mixture comes together as uniform dough. Turn it out onto a
lightly floured counter and sprinkle the pistachios and dried cherries over
the top. Use a bench scraper to fold the nuts and fruit into the dough until
evenly distributed.

Divide the dough in half. Form each half into a log about 12 inches long
and 1½ inches in diameter. Put the logs on the parchment-lined pan and
bake for 30 minutes, or until golden brown and completely set.

Remove from the oven, transfer the logs to a cutting board, and
immediately cut each log into 1-inch-thick slices on the diagonal, using a
serrated knife. Be gentle, as the cookies tend to be a little bit crumbly.

Arrange the slices flat side down on the baking sheet, return to the oven,
and bake for 10 minutes. Remove from the oven, flip the cookies over, and
bake for 10 to 15 minutes, until they are golden brown and completely dry.
Let cool completely on the baking sheet.

The biscotti can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for


up to 1 month.
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Gently fold fruit and nuts into Mixed biscotti dough, studded
the biscotti dough with a bench with fruit and nuts, ready to be
scraper. shaped into logs.

Baked logs of Biscotti with Pistachios and Dried Cherries, hot and
ready for slicing.
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Crunchy Biscotti with Pistachios and Dried Cherries in the cookie jar.
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cookie crumb streusel / petit beurre-


scotti
makes about 2 dozen

Here’s the thing about making biscotti, especially if


they contain nuts or chocolate chunks: they have a
tendency to break when you slice them, and
sometimes they fall apart. The end pieces are not so
beautiful, and they get knocked around in the cookie
jar. Because people tend to reach for the perfect
cookies, we set aside the discards and use them to
make something new. You could put them into a
Cookie Crepe Cake (here), or you could make cookie
crumb streusel or Petit Beurre-scotti. Petit beurres
are classically made by baking butter cookies,
crushing them into crumbs, adding more butter; and
baking them again. They are rich and delicate treats.
No one will ever guess that these cookies originated
in the discard pile.
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7 ounces / 200 grams broken biscotti pieces (or substitute your favorite
cookie)
6 tablespoons / 75 grams light brown sugar
½ cup / 65 grams Gluten-Free Flour Blend (What IiF Flour 3.0, here,
Batch-3 Flour, here, or Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend, here)
⅛ teaspoon / 0.75 gram fine sea salt
8 tablespoons / 4 ounces / 113 grams unsalted butter, at room
temperature

Put the biscotti pieces, brown sugar, flour, and salt into a food processor and
pulverize into fine crumbs. Add the butter and pulse 15 to 20 times to blend
it into the crumbs. Put the mixture into a bowl and squeeze it together to
make larger streusel-style chunks.

For streusel, use the crumbs immediately or transfer to a zip-top bag and
refrigerate for up to 3 days or freeze up for to a month.

For Petit Beurre-scotti, turn the mixture out onto a 13-by-18-inch piece of
parchment paper. Gently press and push it together to form a flat rectangle
of dough. Top with a second piece of parchment. Roll the dough into a
rough rectangle approximately 10 inches by 15 inches. Put the dough on a
large baking sheet and refrigerate for at least 1 hour.

Preheat the oven to 325°F. (165°C.).

Remove the top piece of parchment paper. Bake the sheet of cookie dough
for 15 minutes, or until it is browning on the edges and bubbling lightly in
the center.

Remove the dough from the oven and use a cookie cutter to cut shapes in
the hot dough; let the cut cookies cool completely on the pan before
removing them. The cookies are for serving; the scraps are great broken up
and sprinkled on ice cream. Alternatively, cut the warm cookie into bars and
avoid any trim.

The cookies can be stored in an airtight container for up to 1 week.


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Petit Beurre-scotti, sweet, delicate cookies made from leftover biscotti.


Bake them in a sheet and cut them out after baking with a cookie cutter.
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acknowledgments

everything we do is a collaboration, and this book is


no exception. We’d like to thank our exacting and
inspiring editor, Maria Guarnaschelli; her assistant,
Mitchell Kohles; the art director, Ingsu Liu; the
designer, Jean Orlebeke; the production manager,
Anna Oler; the project editor, Susan Sanfrey; and the
entire team at Norton for welcoming us into the fold
and helping us create this book. A special thank-you
to our agent, Sharon Bowers, who has been with us
from the beginning of our publishing careers. A big
thank-you to our daughter, Amaya, our favorite
kitchen assistant; to our friends and family, for their
tireless taste-testing and support; to all of the chefs
and cooks who tested our recipes and offered their
feedback; and to all of our readers, who make our
Juanvi

books possible. We couldn’t have done it without


you.
Juanvi

sources

Amazon
www.amazon.com
A source for anything you can’t find at your local
stores, including sodium citrate, copper cannelé
molds, organic beeswax, cocoa powders, and
parchment paper sheets for lining baking sheets.

Bob’s Red Mill


www.bobsredmill.com
Good source of gluten-free flours and other baking
products.

Boyajian
www.boyajianinc.com
Citrus and other flavored oils, vinegars, and extracts.
Juanvi

Cacao-Barry
www.cacao-barry.com
High-quality chocolates and cocoa powder.

Fain’s Honey
www.fainshoney.com
Ribbon cane syrup, molasses, and honeys.

Fantes
www.fantes.com
Specialty cookware, including pasta equipment, meat
grinders, whipped cream canisters and chargers,
bakeware, and krumkake irons.

Fentiman’s
www.fentimans.com
Ginger beer and other soft drinks and cocktail
mixers.

Fever Tree
www.fever-tree.com
Ginger beer and other soft drinks and cocktail
mixers.
Juanvi

Ghirardelli
www.ghirardelli.com
Our favorite supermarket-brand chocolate chips.

King Arthur Flour


www.kingarthurflour.com
Great source for gluten-free flours, baking supplies,
black cocoa, cookware, and storage containers,
among other products.

Lodge Cast Iron


www.lodgemfg.com
Cast-iron combo cooker, skillets, pizza pans, grills,
and bakeware.

Nielsen-Massey
www.nielsenmassey.com
Vanilla paste and extracts.

Poirier’s Pure Cane Syrup


(337) 254-8758
Old-fashioned cane syrup from Louisiana.

Reed’s
Juanvi

www.reedsinc.com
Original Ginger Brew and other ginger sodas.

Regatta Ginger Beer


www.regattagingerbeer.com

Steen’s Cane Syrup


www.steensyrup.com

Valrhona
www.valrhona-chocolate.com
High-quality chocolates and cocoa powder.
Juanvi

index

Page numbers listed correspond to the print edition of


this book. You can use your device’s search function
to locate particular terms in the text.
Note: Page references in italics indicate recipe photographs.

Agnolotti, 148–50
Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend, 31
“Alkalized” cocoa powder, 7
All-Butter Pie Dough, 272–73, 273
Allergies, food, ix
Almond butter
SunButter and Jelly Crumble Cake, 46–47
Almond(s)
Blueberry Streusel Cake, 189–91, 192
Marcona, Marzipan, 102, 103
Marcona, Marzipan–Enriched Stollen, 99–103, 104
Sticky Maple Scones, 64, 65–66
Angeletti, Lemon, 341–42, 343
Apple
Fritters, 175, 176–77
Grape Pie, 282–84, 285
Juanvi

Apple cider
Homemade Hoisin Sauce, 76
Kimchi Cavatelli with Bulgogi Sauce, 142–44, 145
Arnhem Biscuits, 319–20, 321
Arrowhead Mills, 6
Arrowroot
about, 7
Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend, 31
Batch-3 Flour, 30
Asian Dumplings, 151, 152–54

Bacon
Corn Bread, Crunchy Upside-Down, 59–60, 61
Manicotti with Scallion Crepes, 155–57
and Onion Tart, 170, 171–72
Baked Brie, 173–74
Banana Butterfinger Cream Pie, 290–91, 292
Bars
Breakfast, 48–49
Double-Chocolate Brownies, 229, 230, 231
Peanut Butter Blondies, 232, 233, 233–34
Batch-3 Flour, 30
Beef
Kimchi Cavatelli with Bulgogi Sauce, 142–44, 145
Berries
Blueberry-Cheesecake Pie, 286–88, 289
Blueberry Streusel Cake, 189–91, 192
Blueberry Streusel Muffins, 34, 35–36, 37
Breakfast Bars, 48–49
Marcona Almond Marzipan–Enriched Stollen, 99–103, 104
Peach Breakfast Cake, 42, 43–44
Strawberries-and-Cream Cake, 256, 257–59
Strawberry Coffee Cake, 38–39
Biscotti with Pistachios and Dried Cherries, 344, 345–46
Biscuits
Buttermilk Drop, Easiest, 52, 53–54
Juanvi

Cheddar Jalapeño Corn, 57–58


Honey-Glazed Break-Apart, 55–56
Blondies, Peanut Butter, 232, 233, 233–34
Blueberry(ies)
Breakfast Bars, 48–49
-Cheesecake Pie, 286–88, 289
Marcona Almond Marzipan–Enriched Stollen, 99–103, 104
Streusel Cake, 189–91, 192
Streusel Muffins, 34, 35–36, 37
Bob’s Red Mill, 6
Bolognese, Pepperoni, Seamless Ravioli with, 134, 135–38
Boston Cream Pie, 267–69
Bourbon
Caramel Sauce, 244–45
Chocolate Glaze, 197
Chocolate Syrup, 248–49
The Lightest Corn Bread Ever, 62–63
Microwave Chocolate Sponge Cakes, 220–21
Breads
Bacon Corn, Crunchy Upside-Down, 59–60, 61
Buttermilk Brioche, 94–95
Butter-Stuffed Dinner Rolls, 84, 85–87
Cheddar Jalapeño Corn Biscuits, 57–58
Chinese Steamed Buns, 72, 73–75
Corn, The Lightest Ever, 62–63
Country Sourdough, 88, 89–91
Crumpets, 77–78, 79
Doughnuts, 103, 105–8, 109
Easiest Buttermilk Drop Biscuits, 52, 53–54
Focaccia de Recco, 119–21, 122
gluten-free, rise in, 5
Grilled Garlic and Onion Flatbread, 116, 117–18
Honey-Glazed Break-Apart Biscuits, 55–56
Kouign Amann, 96, 97–98
Lemon Ginger Scones, 67–68, 69
Marcona Almond Marzipan–Enriched Stollen, 99–103, 104
Juanvi

Microwave Sourdough Soft Rolls, 92–93


Pizza Dough, 112, 113–15
Potato, 80, 81–83
Sticky Maple Scones, 64, 65–66
Break-Apart Biscuits, Honey-Glazed, 55–56
Breakfast
Apple Fritters, 175, 176–77
Blueberry Streusel Muffins, 34, 35–36, 37
Breakfast Bars, 48–49
Peach Breakfast Cake, 42, 43–44
Sourdough Pancakes, 45
Strawberry Coffee Cake, 38–39
SunButter and Jelly Crumble Cake, 46–47
Yeasted Pumpkin Waffles, 40–41
Brie, Baked, 173–74
Brioche, Buttermilk, 94–95
Brown-Butter Crackers, 128–29, 129
Brownies, Double-Chocolate, 229, 230, 231
Brown rice flour
about, 14
Batch-3 Flour, 30
What IiF Flour 3.0, 28, 29
Bulgogi Sauce, Kimchi Cavatelli with, 142–44, 145
Bundt Cakes
Chocolate, Jenny’s, 193–94
Deep, Dark Yeasted Chocolate, 198, 199–200
glazes for, 195–97
Yeasted Vanilla, 201–2, 203
Buns, Steamed Chinese, 72, 73–75
Butter
All- , Pie Dough, 272–73, 273
Brown- , Crackers, 128–29, 129
-Stuffed Dinner Rolls, 84, 85–87
Yeasted Puff Pastry, 167–69, 169
Butterballs, 338, 339–40
Butterfinger Banana Cream Pie, 290–91, 292
Juanvi

Buttermilk
Brioche, 94–95
Drop Biscuits, Easiest, 52, 53–54
-Lemon Glaze, 105–7

Cabbage
Asian Dumplings, 151, 152–54
Cakes
Blueberry Streusel, 189–91, 192
Boston Cream Pie, 267–69
Caramel, Easy One-Bowl, 186, 187–89
Carrot, 260, 261–65, 266
Chocolate, 247–48
Chocolate Bundt, Jenny’s, 193–94
Chocolate Sponge, Microwave, 220–21
Coconut, 251, 252–54, 255
Coconut Cannelés, 224, 225–28
Coffee, Strawberry, 38–39
Cookie Crepe, 328, 329–31
Corn Pound, Moist, 180, 181–82
Double-Chocolate Brownies, 229, 230, 231
Ginger Madeleines, 235–36, 237
Glazes for, 195–97
Individual Gingerbread, 222–23
Japanese Cheesecake, 207–8, 209
Lemon Yogurt Cannoli, 210, 211–13
Oatmeal Cherry, with Coconut Pecan Topping, 183–84, 185
Peach Breakfast, 42, 43–44
Peanut Butter Blondies, 232, 233, 233–34
Sponge, 267–68
Strawberries-and-Cream, 256, 257–59
SunButter and Jelly Crumble, 46–47
Sweet Rice, Microwave, 216, 217–19
Tres Leches, 240, 241–44
Triple-Chocolate, 246, 247–50
Triple-Ginger, 204, 205–6
Juanvi

Vanilla, 187–88, 241–42


Yeasted Chocolate Bundt, Deep, Dark, 198, 199–200
Yeasted Vanilla Bundt, 201–2, 203
Cannelés, Coconut, 224, 225–28
Cannoli Cake, Lemon Yogurt, 210, 211–13
Caramel
Bourbon Sauce, 244–45
Cake, Easy One-Bowl, 186, 187–89
Glaze, 188
Whipped Cream, 297
Carrot Cake, 260, 261–65, 266
Cavatelli, Kimchi, with Bulgogi Sauce, 142–44, 145
Cheddar
Agnolotti, 148–50
Cheese Coins with Sesame Seeds, 126–27
Focaccia de Recco, 119–21, 122
Jalapeño Corn Biscuits, 57–58
Cheese
Agnolotti, 148–50
Baked Brie, 173–74
Blueberry-Cheesecake Pie, 286–88, 289
Cheddar, Coins with Sesame Seeds, 126–27
Cheddar Jalapeño Corn Biscuits, 57–58
Cream, Frosting, 262–63
Focaccia de Recco, 119–21, 122
Gougères, 160–62, 163
Japanese Cheesecake, 207–8, 209
Kimchi Cavatelli with Bulgogi Sauce, 142–44, 145
Manicotti with Scallion Crepes, 155–57
Mascarpone Frosting, 212
Potato Gnocchi, 139–40, 141
Seamless Ravioli with Pepperoni Bolognese, 134, 135–38
Cheesecake, Japanese, 207–8, 209
Cheesecake-Blueberry Pie, 286–88, 289
Cherry(ies)
Breakfast Bars, 48–49
Juanvi

Dried, and Pistachios, Biscotti with, 344, 345–46


Oatmeal Cake with Coconut Pecan Topping, 183–84, 185
Chewy Chocolate Chip Cookies, 303, 304–6
Chicken, Japanese Fried, 18–20, 20
Chinese Steamed Buns, 72, 73–75
Chocolate
Bourbon Glaze, 197
Bourbon Syrup, 248–49
Bundt Cake, Deep, Dark Yeasted, 198, 199–200
Bundt Cake, Jenny’s, 193–94
Cake, 247–48
Chip Cookies, Chewy, 303, 304–6
Chip Cookies, Classic, 300, 301–2
Cocoa Glaze, 197
Cocoa Whipped Cream, 297
Cookie Crepe Cake, 328, 329–31
Double- , Brownies, 229, 230, 231
Éclairs, 162
Frosting, 248–49
Ganache, 268–69
Glaze, 197
Masa Harina Pie with Coffee Cream, 293–94, 295
Milk, Mousse, 252–53
Pie Dough, 276, 277
Snaps, 325, 326–27
Sponge Cakes, Microwave, 220–21
Triple- , Cake, 246, 247–50
Cinnamon
Snickerdoodles, 307–8, 309
Whipped Cream, 296
Classic Chocolate Chip Cookies, 300, 301–2
Cocoa
Glaze, 197
nibs, about, 7
powder, about, 7
Whipped Cream, 297
Juanvi

Coconut
Cake, 251, 252–54, 255
Cannelés, 224, 225–28
Pecan Topping, Oatmeal Cherry Cake with, 183–84, 185
Tres Leches Cake, 240, 241–44
Coffee Cake, Strawberry, 38–39
Coffee Cream, 293–94, 295
Cookie Crepe Cake, 328, 329–31
Cookie Crumb Streusel / Petit Beurre-scotti, 347–48, 349
Cookies
Arnhem Biscuits, 319–20, 321
Biscotti with Pistachios and Dried Cherries, 344, 345–46
Butterballs, 338, 339–40
Chocolate Chip, Chewy, 303, 304–6
Chocolate Chip, Classic, 300, 301–2
Chocolate Snaps, 325, 326–27
Cookie Crumb Streusel / Petit Beurre-scotti, 347–48, 349
Jam, 312, 313–14
Lemon Angeletti, 341–42, 343
Lemon Sablés, 335, 336–37
Maple Oatmeal-Raisin, 332
Oatmeal Lace, 333–34
Peanut Butter, 310, 311
Snickerdoodles, 307–8, 309
Stroopwafels, 315, 316–18
Sugar, Cut-Out, 322, 323–24
Corn flour
about, 7–8
Cheddar Jalapeño Corn Biscuits, 57–58
Crunchy Upside-Down Bacon Corn Bread, 59–60, 61
The Lightest Corn Bread Ever, 62–63
Moist Corn Pound Cake, 180, 181–82
Cornmeal
about, 7–8
grinding into flour, 8
Cornstarch
Juanvi

about, 8
What IiF Flour 3.0, 28, 29
Country Sourdough, 88, 89–91
Crackers
Brown-Butter, 128–29, 129
Cheddar Cheese Coins with Sesame Seeds, 126–27
Water, 123–24, 125
Cranberries
Breakfast Bars, 48–49
Marcona Almond Marzipan–Enriched Stollen, 99–103, 104
Cream Cheese
Blueberry-Cheesecake Pie, 286–88, 289
Frosting, 262–63
Japanese Cheesecake, 207–8, 209
Crepe Cake, Cookie, 328, 329–31
Crepes, Scallion, Manicotti with, 155–57
Crumpets, 77–78, 79
Crunchy Upside-Down Bacon Corn Bread, 59–60, 61
Cut-Out Sugar Cookies, 322, 323–24

Deep, Dark Yeasted Chocolate Bundt Cake, 198, 199–200


Desserts
Apple Fritters, 175, 176–77
Blueberry Streusel Cake, 189–91, 192
Deep, Dark Yeasted Chocolate Bundt Cake, 198, 199–200
Easy One-Bowl Caramel Cake, 186, 187–89
Éclairs, 162
Japanese Cheesecake, 207–8, 209
Jenny’s Chocolate Bundt Cake, 193–94
Lemon Yogurt Cannoli Cake, 210, 211–13
Moist Corn Pound Cake, 180, 181–82
Oatmeal Cherry Cake with Coconut Pecan Topping, 183–84, 185
Triple-Ginger Cake, 204, 205–6
Yeasted Vanilla Bundt Cake, 201–2, 203
Dinner Rolls, Butter-Stuffed, 84, 85–87
Double-Chocolate Brownies, 229, 230, 231
Juanvi

Doughnuts, 103, 105–8, 109


Drop Biscuits, Easiest Buttermilk, 52, 53–54
Dumplings, Asian, 151, 152–54
Dutch-processed cocoa powder, 7

Easiest Buttermilk Drop Biscuits, 52, 53–54


Easy One-Bowl Caramel Cake, 186, 187–89
Éclairs, 162
Egg Noodles, 132, 133
Egg Replacer, Flaxseed, 10

Flatbreads
Brown-Butter Crackers, 128–29, 129
Cheddar Cheese Coins with Sesame Seeds, 126–27
Focaccia de Recco, 119–21, 122
Grilled Garlic and Onion, 116, 117–18
Pizza Dough, 112, 113–15
Water Crackers, 123–24, 125
Flavored Whipped Cream, 296–97
Flaxseed(s)
about, 8–9
Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend, 31
Egg Replacer, 10
Gluten-Free Sourdough Starter, 22–23, 23
grinding into flaxseed meal, 6, 9
Flours. See also Gluten-free flour blends; specific types of flour
compared with starches, 6
corn, about, 7–8
definition of, 6
gluten-free, buying, 5–6
grinding your own, 6
homemade, flavor of, 6
nut, adding to recipes, 6
nut, making your own, 6
oat, about, 16
potato, about, 16
Juanvi

rice, about, 14
sweet sorghum, about, 21
Focaccia de Recco, 119–21, 122
Fontina cheese
Focaccia de Recco, 119–21, 122
Food allergies and sensitivities, ix
Fried Chicken, Japanese, 18–20, 20
Fritters, Apple, 175, 176–77
Frostings
Chocolate, 248–49
Cream Cheese, 262–63
Lemon, 341–42
Mascarpone, 212
Fruit. See also Berries; specific fruits
Peach Breakfast Cake, 42, 43–44

Ganache, Chocolate, 268–69


Garlic and Onion Flatbread, Grilled, 116, 117–18
Ginger
Asian Dumplings, 151, 152–54
Carrot Cake, 260, 261–65, 266
Cream Ice Cream, Sweet-and-Spicy, 25–26
Individual Gingerbread Cakes, 222–23
Kimchi Cavatelli with Bulgogi Sauce, 142–44, 145
Lemon Scones, 67–68, 69
Madeleines, 235–36, 237
Triple- , Cake, 204, 205–6
Gingerbread Cakes, Individual, 222–23
Glazed Walnuts, 261–62
Glazes
Bourbon Chocolate, 197
Caramel, 188
Chocolate, 197
Cocoa, 197
Honey Lemon, 196
Lemon-Buttermilk, 105–7
Juanvi

Lime, 196
Maple, 196
Vanilla, 195
Gliadin, viii
Gluten
building structure in bread dough without, ix
coagulation process, ix
creation of, viii–ix
gelatinization process, ix
hydration process, ix
steam leavening process, ix
Gluten-free flour blends
Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend, 31
Batch-3 Flour, 30
recreating gluten recipes with, ix
storing, 27
taste-testing, in recipes, 27
using interchangeably in recipes, 27
weight in grams, 27
What IiF Flour 3.0, 28, 29
Glutenin, viii
Glutinous rice flour
about, 14
Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend, 31
Microwave Sweet Rice Cakes, 216, 217–19
Gnocchi, Potato, 139–40, 141
Gougères, 160–62, 163
Grains, whole
gluten-free, buying, 5–6
grinding, for flour, 6
Grape Apple Pie, 282–84, 285
Grilled Garlic and Onion Flatbread, 116, 117–18
Gruyère cheese
Gougères, 160–62, 163
Guar gum
about, 11
Juanvi

Batch-3 Flour, 30

Hoisin Sauce, Homemade, 76


Honey
-Glazed Break-Apart Biscuits, 55–56
Lemon Glaze, 196
Walnut Pie, 280–81

Ice Cream
Sweet-and-Spicy Ginger Cream, 25–26
Individual Gingerbread Cakes, 222–23

Jalapeño Cheddar Corn Biscuits, 57–58


Jam Cookies, 312, 313–14
Japanese Cheesecake, 207–8, 209
Japanese Fried Chicken, 18–20, 20
Jelly and SunButter Crumble Cake, 46–47
Jenny’s Chocolate Bundt Cake, 193–94
Kimchi Cavatelli with Bulgogi Sauce, 142–44, 145
Kouign Amann, 96, 97–98

Layer cakes
Boston Cream Pie, 267–69
Carrot Cake, 260, 261–65, 266
Coconut Cake, 251, 252–54, 255
Strawberries-and-Cream Cake, 256, 257–59
Tres Leches Cake, 240, 241–44
Triple-Chocolate Cake, 246, 247–50
Lemon
Angeletti, 341–42, 343
-Buttermilk Glaze, 105–7
Frosting, 341–42
Ginger Scones, 67–68, 69
Honey Glaze, 196
Sablés, 335, 336–37
Yogurt Cannoli Cake, 210, 211–13
Juanvi

The Lightest Corn Bread Ever, 62–63


Lime Glaze, 196

Madeleines, Ginger, 235–36, 237


Main dishes
Kimchi Cavatelli with Bulgogi Sauce, 142–44, 145
Manicotti with Scallion Crepes, 155–57
Potato Gnocchi, 139–40, 141
Seamless Ravioli with Pepperoni Bolognese, 134, 135–38
Malloredus, Masa, 146–47, 147
Manicotti with Scallion Crepes, 155–57
Maple (syrup)
Coconut Cannelés, 224, 225–28
Glaze, 196
The Lightest Corn Bread Ever, 62–63
Maple Oatmeal-Raisin Cookies, 332
Masa Harina Pie with Coffee Cream, 293–94, 295
Scones, Sticky, 64, 65–66
Stroopwafels, 315, 316–18
Whipped Cream, 296–97
Marcona Almond Marzipan, 102, 103
Marcona Almond Marzipan–Enriched Stollen, 99–103, 104
Marzipan, Marcona Almond, 102, 103
Masa Harina
about, 11
Crunchy Upside-Down Bacon Corn Bread, 59–60, 61
The Lightest Corn Bread Ever, 62–63
Masa Malloredus, 146–47, 147
Pie with Coffee Cream, 293–94, 295
Pizza Dough, 112, 113–15
Puree, 13
Smoked, 12
Masa Malloredus, 146–47, 147
Mascarpone Frosting, 212
Meat. See also Pork
Kimchi Cavatelli with Bulgogi Sauce, 142–44, 145
Juanvi

Microwave Chocolate Sponge Cakes, 220–21


Microwave Sourdough Soft Rolls, 92–93
Microwave Sweet Rice Cakes, 216, 217–19
Milk Chocolate Mousse, 252–53
Milk Powder
about, 14
Batch-3 Flour, 30
Brown-Butter Crackers, 128–29, 129
Chewy Chocolate Chip Cookies, 303, 304–6
Classic Chocolate Chip Cookies, 300, 301–2
Deep, Dark Yeasted Chocolate Bundt Cake, 198, 199–200
Lemon Sablés, 335, 336–37
Microwave Sourdough Soft Rolls, 92–93
Sweet-and-Spicy Ginger Cream Ice Cream, 25–26
Toasted, 15, 15
What IiF Flour 3.0, 28, 29
Yeasted Vanilla Bundt Cake, 201–2, 203
Moist Corn Pound Cake, 180, 181–82
Molasses
Individual Gingerbread Cakes, 222–23
Triple-Ginger Cake, 204, 205–6
Mousse, Milk Chocolate, 252–53
Mozzarella
Manicotti with Scallion Crepes, 155–57
Pass-Around Stromboli Wheels, 164, 165–66
Muffins, Blueberry Streusel, 34, 35–36, 37

Natural cocoa powder, 7


Nixtamal, 11
Nonfat milk powder. See Milk Powder
Noodles, Egg, 132, 133
Nut Butter
Peanut Butter Blondies, 232, 233, 233–34
Peanut Butter Cookies, 310, 311
Pie Dough, 274–75
SunButter and Jelly Crumble Cake, 46–47
Juanvi

Nuts
Biscotti with Pistachios and Dried Cherries, 344, 345–46
Blueberry Streusel Cake, 189–91, 192
Butterballs, 338, 339–40
Glazed Walnuts, 261–62
grinding, for nut meals and nut flours, 6
Honey Walnut Pie, 280–81
Lemon Yogurt Cannoli Cake, 210, 211–13
Marcona Almond Marzipan, 102, 103
Marcona Almond Marzipan–Enriched Stollen, 99–103, 104
Oatmeal Cherry Cake with Coconut Pecan Topping, 183–84, 185
Sticky Maple Scones, 64, 65–66

Oat flour
about, 16
Blueberry Streusel Muffins, 34, 35–36, 37
Double-Chocolate Brownies, 229, 230, 231
Oats
Blueberry Streusel Cake, 189–91, 192
Blueberry Streusel Muffins, 34, 35–36, 37
grinding, for oat flour, 6
Maple Oatmeal-Raisin Cookies, 332
Oatmeal Cherry Cake with Coconut Pecan Topping, 183–84, 185
Oatmeal Lace Cookies, 333–34
Oil, rice bran, note about, 19–20
Onion
and Bacon Tart, 170, 171–72
and Garlic Flatbread, Grilled, 116, 117–18
Oranges
Carrot Cake, 260, 261–65, 266
Coconut Cannelés, 224, 225–28

Pancakes, Sourdough, 45
Parmigiano-Reggiano
Manicotti with Scallion Crepes, 155–57
Pass-Around Stromboli Wheels, 164, 165–66
Juanvi

Potato Gnocchi, 139–40, 141


Seamless Ravioli with Pepperoni Bolognese, 134, 135–38
Pass-Around Stromboli Wheels, 164, 165–66
Pasta
Agnolotti, 148–50
Egg Noodles, 132, 133
Kimchi Cavatelli with Bulgogi Sauce, 142–44, 145
Manicotti with Scallion Crepes, 155–57
Masa Malloredus, 146–47, 147
Potato Gnocchi, 139–40, 141
Seamless Ravioli with Pepperoni Bolognese, 134, 135–38
Pastries
Breakfast Bars, 48–49
Kouign Amann, 96, 97–98
Pastry, Yeasted Puff, 167–69, 169
Pâte à Choux, 160–62, 162
Peach
Breakfast Cake, 42, 43–44
Pie, Summer, 278–79
Peanut Butter
Blondies, 232, 233, 233–34
Cookies, 310, 311
SunButter and Jelly Crumble Cake, 46–47
Pears
Kimchi Cavatelli with Bulgogi Sauce, 142–44, 145
Pecan Coconut Topping, Oatmeal Cherry Cake with, 183–84, 185
Pepperoni Bolognese, Seamless Ravioli with, 134, 135–38
Peppers
Cheddar Jalapeño Corn Biscuits, 57–58
Petit Beurre-scotti / Cookie Crumb Streusel, 347–48, 349
Pie Dough
All-Butter, 272–73, 273
Chocolate, 276, 277
gluten-free, texture of, 5
Nut-Butter, 274–75
Pies
Juanvi

Apple Grape, 282–84, 285


Banana Butterfinger Cream, 290–91, 292
Blueberry-Cheesecake, 286–88, 289
Honey Walnut, 280–81
Masa Harina, with Coffee Cream, 293–94, 295
Peach, Summer, 278–79
Pistachios
and Dried Cherries, Biscotti with, 344, 345–46
Lemon Yogurt Cannoli Cake, 210, 211–13
Pizza, Uncooked Tomato Sauce for, 114
Pizza Dough, 112, 113–15
Pork. See also Bacon
Asian Dumplings, 151, 152–54
Manicotti with Scallion Crepes, 155–57
Pass-Around Stromboli Wheels, 164, 165–66
Seamless Ravioli with Pepperoni Bolognese, 134, 135–38
Potato
Bread, 80, 81–83
flakes, grinding into potato flour, 6
Gnocchi, 139–40, 141
Potato flour
about, 16
Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend, 31
Batch-3 Flour, 30
What IiF Flour 3.0, 28, 29
Potato starch
about, 16–17
Japanese Fried Chicken, 18–20, 20
Pound Cake, Moist Corn, 180, 181–82
Prosciutto
Manicotti with Scallion Crepes, 155–57
Pass-Around Stromboli Wheels, 164, 165–66
Provolone cheese
Pass-Around Stromboli Wheels, 164, 165–66
Prunes
Homemade Hoisin Sauce, 76
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Pudding, Vanilla, 267–68


Puff Pastry, Yeasted, 167–69, 169
Puffs
Éclairs, 162
Gougères, 160–62, 163
Pâte à Choux, 160–62, 162
Pumpkin Waffles, Yeasted, 40–41
Puree, Masa Harina, 13

Quick breads
Cheddar Jalapeño Corn Biscuits, 57–58
Crunchy Upside-Down Bacon Corn Bread, 59–60, 61
Easiest Buttermilk Drop Biscuits, 52, 53–54
Honey-Glazed Break-Apart Biscuits, 55–56
Lemon Ginger Scones, 67–68, 69
The Lightest Corn Bread Ever, 62–63
Sticky Maple Scones, 64, 65–66

Raisin(s)
Marcona Almond Marzipan–Enriched Stollen, 99–103, 104
-Oatmeal Cookies, Maple, 332
Ravioli, Seamless, with Pepperoni Bolognese, 134, 135–38
Rice bran oil, note about, 19–20
Rice flour
about, 14
Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend, 31
Batch-3 Flour, 30
grinding rice for, 6
Microwave Sweet Rice Cakes, 216, 217–19
What IiF Flour 3.0, 28, 29
Ricotta
Kimchi Cavatelli with Bulgogi Sauce, 142–44, 145
Manicotti with Scallion Crepes, 155–57
Seamless Ravioli with Pepperoni Bolognese, 134, 135–38
Rolls
Dinner, Butter-Stuffed, 84, 85–87
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Microwave Sourdough Soft, 92–93


Rum
Individual Gingerbread Cakes, 222–23
Marcona Almond Marzipan–Enriched Stollen, 99–103, 104
Microwave Chocolate Sponge Cakes, 220–21

Sablés, Lemon, 335, 336–37


Salami
Pass-Around Stromboli Wheels, 164, 165–66
Sauces
Bourbon Caramel, 244–45
Bulgogi, 142–44, 145
Dipping, for Asian Dumplings, 151, 152–54
Hoisin, Homemade, 76
Pepperoni Bolognese, 134, 135–38
Uncooked Tomato, for Pizza, 114
Scallion Crepes, Manicotti with, 155–57
Scones
Lemon Ginger, 67–68, 69
Sticky Maple, 64, 65–66
Seamless Ravioli with Pepperoni Bolognese, 134, 135–38
Sesame Seeds
Cheddar Cheese Coins with, 126–27
substituting flaxseeds for, 8
Side dishes
Agnolotti, 148–50
Bacon and Onion Tart, 170, 171–72
Egg Noodles, 132, 133
Focaccia de Recco, 119–21, 122
Masa Malloredus, 146–47, 147
Small cakes
Coconut Cannelés, 224, 225–28
Double-Chocolate Brownies, 229, 230, 231
Ginger Madeleines, 235–36, 237
glazes for, 195–97
Individual Gingerbread Cakes, 222–23
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Microwave Chocolate Sponge Cakes, 220–21


Microwave Sweet Rice Cakes, 216, 217–19
Peanut Butter Blondies, 232, 233, 233–34
Smoked Masa Harina, 12
Smoked paprika
Homemade Hoisin Sauce, 76
Kimchi Cavatelli with Bulgogi Sauce, 142–44, 145
Snickerdoodles, 307–8, 309
Sorghum flour
about, 21
Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend, 31
Batch-3 Flour, 30
Gluten-Free Sourdough Starter, 22–23, 23
Sourdough
Country, 88, 89–91
Pancakes, 45
Soft Rolls, Microwave, 92–93
Starter, Gluten-Free, 22–23, 23
Soy sauce
Asian Dumplings Dipping Sauce, 151, 152–54
Homemade Hoisin Sauce, 76
Sponge Cake, 267–68
Sponge Cake, Microwave Chocolate, 220–21
Squash. See Pumpkin
Starches
Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend, 31
arrowroot, 7
Batch-3 Flour, 30
compared with flours, 6
cornstarch, 8
definition of, 6
potato, about, 16–17
What IiF Flour 3.0, 28, 29
Starter, Sourdough, Gluten-Free, 22–23, 23
Starters
Agnolotti, 148–50
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Asian Dumplings, 151, 152–54


Bacon and Onion Tart, 170, 171–72
Baked Brie, 173–74
Brown-Butter Crackers, 128–29, 129
Cheddar Cheese Coins with Sesame Seeds, 126–27
Focaccia de Recco, 119–21, 122
Gougères, 160–62, 163
Masa Malloredus, 146–47, 147
Pass-Around Stromboli Wheels, 164, 165–66
Pâte à Choux, 160–62, 162
Water Crackers, 123–24, 125
Steamed Buns, Chinese, 72, 73–75
Sticky Maple Scones, 64, 65–66
Stollen, Marcona Almond Marzipan–Enriched, 99–103, 104
Stollen Doughnuts, 103, 109
Strawberry(ies)
-and-Cream Cake, 256, 257–59
Coffee Cake, 38–39
Stromboli Wheels, Pass-Around, 164, 165–66
Stroopwafels, 315, 316–18
Sugar Cookies, Cut-Out, 322, 323–24
Summer Peach Pie, 278–79
SunButter and Jelly Crumble Cake, 46–47
Sweet-and-Spicy Ginger Cream Ice Cream, 25–26
Sweet sorghum flour. See Sorghum flour
Syrup, Bourbon Chocolate, 248–49

Tapioca flour. See Tapioca starch


Tapioca starch
about, 24
Aki’s Low-Allergy Blend, 31
Batch-3 Flour, 30
What IiF Flour 3.0, 28, 29
Tart, Bacon and Onion, 170, 171–72
Toasted Milk Powder, 15, 15
Tomato(es)
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Manicotti with Scallion Crepes, 155–57


Sauce, Uncooked, for Pizza, 114
Seamless Ravioli with Pepperoni Bolognese, 134, 135–38
Tres Leches Cake, 240, 241–44
Triple-Chocolate Cake, 246, 247–50
Triple-Ginger Cake, 204, 205–6
Uncooked Tomato Sauce for Pizza, 114
Upside-Down Bacon Corn Bread, Crunchy, 59–60, 61

Vanilla
Bundt Cake, Yeasted, 201–2, 203
Cake, 187–88, 241–42
Glaze, 195
Pudding, 267–68
Waffles, Yeasted Pumpkin, 40–41
Walnut(s)
Butterballs, 338, 339–40
Glazed, 261–62
Honey Pie, 280–81
Water Crackers, 123–24, 125
What IiF Flour 3.0, 28, 29
Wheat flours, viii–ix
Whipped Cream, 242
Caramel, 297
Cinnamon, 296
Cocoa, 297
Coffee Cream, 293–94, 295
Maple, 296–97
White Cake, 257–59

Xanthan gum
about, 27
What IiF Flour 3.0, 28, 29

Yeasted breads
Buttermilk Brioche, 94–95
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Butter-Stuffed Dinner Rolls, 84, 85–87


Chinese Steamed Buns, 72, 73–75
Country Sourdough, 88, 89–91
Crumpets, 77–78, 79
Doughnuts, 103, 105–8, 109
Kouign Amann, 96, 97–98
Marcona Almond Marzipan–Enriched Stollen, 99–103, 104
Microwave Sourdough Soft Rolls, 92–93
Potato Bread, 80, 81–83
Yeasted Chocolate Bundt Cake, Deep, Dark, 198, 199–200
Yeasted Puff Pastry, 167–69, 169
Yeasted Pumpkin Waffles, 40–41
Yeasted Vanilla Bundt Cake, 201–2, 203
Yogurt
Lemon Cannoli Cake, 210, 211–13
Pass-Around Stromboli Wheels, 164, 165–66
Juanvi

ALSO BY AKI KAMOZAWA & H. ALEXANDER TALBOT

Maximum Flavor: Recipes That Will Change the Way


You Cook
Ideas in Food: Great Recipes and Why They Work
Juanvi

Copyright © 2015 by Aki Kamozawa and H. Alexander Talbot

All rights reserved


First Edition

For information about permission to reproduce selections from this book,


write to Permissions, W. W. Norton & Company, Inc.,
500 Fifth Avenue, New York, NY 10110

For information about special discounts for bulk purchases, please contact
W. W. Norton Special Sales at [email protected] or 800-233-
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Book design by Jean Orlebeke


Production manager: Anna Oler

The Library of Congress has cataloged the printed edition as follows:

Kamozawa, Aki.
Gluten-free flour power : bringing your favorite foods back to the table /
Aki Kamozawa, H. Alexander Talbot.
pages cm
Includes index.
ISBN 978-0-393-24342-0 (hardcover)
1. Bread. 2. Pastry. 3. Gluten-free diet—Recipes. I. Talbot, H. Alexander.
II. Title.
TX769.K285 2015
641.81’5—dc23
2014037018

ISBN 978-0-393-24343-7 (e-book)

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