By

NAOMI ROUGEAU
Photographed by
SUNHIL SIPPY

NECKLACE: SUNHIL SIPPY; ANNIVERSARY SHOW: DOLLY DEVI; STORE: BJÖRN WALLANDER.
Designer Sabyasachi
Mukherjee in his Mumbai
home. Opposite page,
clockwise from top left:
A gold fil coupé dress in
Sabyasachi’s 25th-
anniversary show; the
jewelry salon in the brand’s
Manhattan boutique; high-
jewelry choker in 18-karat
gold with morganites,
tourmalines, tanzanites,
and brilliant-cut E-F VVS
and VS diamonds; his and
her suiting at the designer’s
recent Mumbai show.

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 A DREAM
FASHIONING

To celebrate his namesake brand’s 25th anniversary,

designer Sabyasachi Mukherjee brought the fashion world
to Mumbai. Now, he’s bringing India to the world.

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’I
heard 78 million rupees crore [$9 world, he stowed away on a train at the age of 15. To fund
million] was spent,” whispered an his studies at India’s National Institute of Fashion Tech-
Indian fashion insider over chai at one nology, he took a series of odd jobs that included wash-
of Mumbai’s most exclusive private ing dishes in Goa. Upon his graduation, his younger
clubs. It was Sunday evening, and on sister, Payal, loaned him the equivalent of $200 to kick-
the manicured lawn, in the shadow start his business. Mukherjee used the seed money to
of the Ambani family’s 27-story com- purchase a sewing machine, a bucket, and some dyes for
pound, everyone was buzzing about hand-coloring fabric scraps procured from local mar-
“Sabya’s” 25th-anniversary fete, which kets (though he clarifies they were remnants of precious
had taken place the night before. It antique textiles). Today, the brand is reportedly on pace
seemed as though tout le monde had to become a $2 billion enterprise by 2030.
descended upon Mumbai, with 700 Initially, he lacked sufficient funds to pay a salary to
well-heeled guests that included Bol- his pattern maker. When the man interviewed for the
lywood star Deepika Padukone and job, Mukherjee recalls, he said, “You look very wise,
supermodel Christy Turlington Burns (who opened and I think you’ll have a remarkable business, so you
and closed the runway show, respectively), business don’t have to give me an advance.”
titan Anand Mahindra and actor Siddharth, plus a bevy Mukherjee was equally confident in his abilities. “I
of billionaires and defunct royals who dusted off their always knew I would be one of the big designers,” he
most glittering jewels for the occasion. And every one says. “I remember when my father asked me what I
of them was clamoring for a moment with the man of was doing with my life, I just sat him down, looked him
the hour, designer Sabyasachi Mukherjee, who in typ- in the eye, and said, ‘Don’t worry, give me five years,
ical fashion was milling about in jeans, sneakers, and and I’ll prove you wrong.’ ” Though it wasn’t a straight
a cashmere sweater emblazoned with his eponymous shot to fame.
brand’s Bengal-tiger logo. It was a striking contrast In 2006, having achieved moderate acclaim in India
amid a sea of strictly black formal ensembles, which and following an auspicious moment when his work
Mukherjee had requested—the better to show off his landed in the window of Browns—legend has it that if
own colorfully ornate wares on the runway. your wares are displayed there during London Fashion
An ordinary runway it was not. After making their Week, you’ll have great success (see John Galliano and
way through an alleyway of hanging laundry, guests Alexander McQueen)—Mukherjee arrived in New York
were transported to Mukherjee’s native Kolkata, cour- like so many young designers keen to make their mark,
tesy of an elaborate set for which no detail was spared, only to be told that his clothes were “too Indian” for the
down to the chipping paint, dusty stained-glass tran- U.S. market. He stuck it out for a year and contemplated
som windows, and drooping electrical wires. To the changing his aesthetic. Then the eminent fashion jour-
untrained eye, it was a picture of faded grandeur. But nalist Suzy Menkes intervened, advising him to return
for Mukherjee, India’s glamour never left. “Luxury home. Mukherjee remembers her saying, “I don’t
exists in the poorest of Indian homes. It is in our sub- understand you, Sabya—you have such an important
conscious,” he explains. “Even if they cannot afford emerging market that you can be the king of. Why do
real jewelry, people will wear flowers in their hair.” you even want to come to the West right now? Pack your
Sabya, as he is lovingly referred to by his millions bags, go back, and start working in India. When you
of fans, has proved himself to be equally resourceful. have power and position, come back to America, start

M
Often dubbed the Ralph Lauren of India for his dis- dictating your terms, and everyone will listen to you.”
tinctly Indian yet instantly recognizable aesthetic
(“That’s so Sabya!”)—which extends from his fashion ukherjee immediately knew what had
collections for men and women to his stores to his to be done: He began sketching a bridal
fine jewelry—the 51-year-old is by far the most famous collection on his flight home, with
and celebrated designer in the South Asian nation of Bridal Fashion Week only a month
over 1.4 billion, an unrivaled champion of its rich arti- away. Titled Chand Bibi, it was an hom-
sanal traditions, and quick to tell you he’s just getting age to traditional Indian bridal attire
started. After having made a splash in New York with at a moment when many women in the country were
his evocative boutique and a slew of high-profile col- eschewing time-honored sartorial customs. “Indian
laborations, he is increasingly attracting the attention women shouldn’t be forced to don Western wear due to
of fashion observers in the West. And it all began in a peer pressure or because the traditional look is tagged
middle-class Bengali household. as ‘tacky,’ ” the designer told the Times of India back
The son of a chemical engineer and an art teacher then, citing Japan, Spain, and Italy as countries whose
who had aspirations for him to become a doctor or an fashions preserve their culture. The collection was a
engineer, Mukherjee had other plans. Curious about the critical and financial success and made Sabyasachi a

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 household name in his home nation. A decade later, he as building start-ups. And while many at the anniver-
(along with Ralph Lauren) would be responsible for sary gala may have been surprised not to see a parade
outfitting Priyanka Chopra and Nick Jonas for the cou- of lehengas, it’s all part of the plan—and probably a
ple’s 2018 nuptials. Last summer, he not only dressed wise one given that Sabyasachi’s biggest outlet abroad
many of the guests at Anant Ambani’s much-covered is New York’s Bergdorf Goodman, the temple of Euro-
wedding to Radhika Merchant, but he was also respon- centric high fashion. “I told Mr. Birla that we will
sible for Ambani’s gold-embroidered sherwani, made likely never see the full potential of this business in
Above: Maximalist crafted in 18-karat
looks in jacquard yellow gold with even more fabulous by its emerald buttons. our lifetimes,” he says, referring to Kumar Birla, the
and faux shearling tourmalines, Yet despite the fame and fortune that traditional billionaire chairman of multinational conglomerate
from Sabyasachi's labradorites, garnets, wedding attire has afforded Mukherjee, times are Aditya Birla Group. “We are building this business
25th-anniversary rhodolites, and changing. These days, a growing number of young for the next 100 years.” Birla’s firm has invested a siz-
collection, brilliant-cut E-F VVS
SUNHIL SIPPY

photographed in and VS diamonds from

Indians are choosing more modest weddings (if able sum in Sabyasachi, and the designer has infused
Kolkata. Opposite: the Bengal Byzantine they’re marrying at all), preferring to spend their his ready-to-wear lines for men and women with
A chain necklace Broadway collection. funds on what they deem more worthy pursuits, such Western silhouettes distinguished by couture-level

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 “I’M A PROUD BENGALI, AND IN
OUR PART OF THE COUNTRY, OUR
REAL CURRENCY IS CULTURE.”

embroideries and embellishments; the latest limited means, was a staunch vegetarian who
collection signaled a greater focus on mens- practiced yoga each morning and led a more
wear, which Mukherjee felt was overdue for spiritual life. “I don’t have scrapbooks or
a shake-up. The brand has also made a brick- even family photographs, but my brand is the
and-mortar push, including the 2022 opening opposite of me.” What he learned from both
of its Christopher Street store. women was centered more on values than on
During New York Fashion Week last Sep- the actual value of material items. “Maximal-
tember, the cocktail party the designer held at ism can go horribly wrong if one doesn’t strike
the shop was arguably the hottest ticket in town— the right balance.” For every Alessandro Michele
and there wasn’t even a runway show. Numerous or Iris Apfel, there are countless disasters.
editors in chief made the pilgrimage, as did Martha Another influential woman in Mukherjee’s
Stewart, Carolina Herrera, and jewelry designer life is Linda Fargo, Bergdorf Goodman’s chic,
Prince Dimitri of Yugoslavia, all wending through silver-haired senior vice president of fashion—
the thicket of beturbaned waitstaff plying guests and the retail high priestess responsible for Sab-
with Dom Pérignon and caviar blini to admire the yasachi’s Big Apple debut. Though the store is
baubles in the high-jewelry salon. It’s not just a not the only American retailer with which Sab-
store but a statement: Mukherjee is not looking yasachi has collaborated, it has been perhaps
for validation from the West. Far from it. “India the designer’s biggest champion, beginning
has such gifts to give to the world, and my in 2020, when it hosted the brand’s state-
biggest worry is that we will lose them,” side fine-jewelry launch. “We had them
he says, pointing out that despite the pop- at hello,” says Fargo of Bergdorf’s jewelry
ularity of one Italian brand known for its clients. She had first visited Mukherjee
paisley prints, the roots of those designs are that year, on the occasion of his company’s
in Kashmir. “What I did was create a global 20th anniversary. “At that time, the ready-

D
collection with an Indian soul.” to-wear was almost like a little bit of a side
thing, but I didn’t want to let the moment
espite the opulence of it slip away, so we started with the jewelry.”
all, Mukherjee’s aesthet- Jewelry, it turns out, currently accounts
ics are informed by his solidly for about one third of Sabyasachi’s sales, and it’s
middle-class roots. Take a closer a category Mukherjee expects will continue to
look at the designer’s high- grow, despite many pieces being priced well
jewelry pieces and you’ll see into the millions of dollars. The designer has
chrysoprase or sodalite mingling with sapphires subtly tweaked some of the pieces to appeal
and diamonds. “I’m a proud Bengali, and in our to the American market, as women here favor
ANNIVERSARY SHOW: DOLLY DEVI; MENSWEAR: TARUN VISHWA; FINE JEWELRY: SUNHIL SIPPY

part of the country, our real currency is culture,” he lighter-weight earrings than those traditionally
says. “We don’t discriminate things according to their worn in India. Earlier this winter, Bergdorf opened a
price. We choose them according to their vibrancy or dedicated Sabyasachi boutique on its fourth floor to
how the raw material speaks to us.” Ditto the New York showcase the brand’s leather goods and ready-to-wear,
store, which, looking beyond the 30 chandeliers and and last spring, the designer hosted a signing event for
antique Kashmiri-paisley-clad walls, is an ode to the the lipstick he created with Estée Lauder. “I told Jane
“showcase” found in typical Bengali homes. A sort of Hudis [executive group president at the Estée Lauder
cabinet of curiosities, it serves as a daily reminder of the Companies] that I had only one demand: that we try
evolution of the owner’s life and can include anything to make the best lipstick in the world. She asked if I
from a piece of wedding china to an empty jar of cold thought my market was ready for that. I said yes, it is.”
cream, offering visitors insight into the family’s lives. So long was the line along West 58th Street that
The unapologetic mingling of things precious and Mukherjee himself paid to keep the store open an addi-
humble comes naturally to Mukherjee, who is wearing tional hour to ensure that everyone was seen to. Many
a long-sleeve Uniqlo T-shirt when we speak and credits of the customers were Indian American—part of the
his two wildly different grandmothers with being his wealthiest immigrant group in the United States—but
original and constant muses. He dedicated his 25th- plenty of others were not, signaling Sabyasachi’s grow-
The Moulin Rouge Opposite: Men’s
high-jewelry and women’s looks anniversary show to the two women. “My work is my ing presence stateside. The product sold out globally
necklace in 18-karat from Sabyasachi’s maximalist maternal grandmother. I am my minimalist in three days. “What people get wrong about India is
yellow gold with 25th-anniversary paternal grandmother,” says Mukherjee, who confesses the assumption that India likes to buy cheap. That’s a
tourmalines, pyrites, collection, including to having a tightly edited wardrobe and an aversion to patently false statement,” he says. “Indians appreciate
iolites, sapphires, a high-jewelry
spinels, and E-F VVS necklace (bottom
souvenirs. The former had a husband “who spoiled her value, and they will open up their wallets as long as the
and VS diamonds. center). silly” with jewelry, brocades, and saris; the latter, of value doesn’t drop.”

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“MY SENSE OF TAILORING IS ALMOST LIKE
A CROSS-CULTURAL INTERVENTION BETWEEN
BRITISH TAILORING AND INDIAN TAILORING.”

Value is a frequent topic of discussion at the com- buying cars, and, in some cases, even have electric-
pany and one that often gets silenced in the luxury mar- ity for the first time. Several have started direct-to-
ket, particularly where more maximalist aesthetics are consumer businesses with the help of their children,
concerned. “When you’re doing maximalism, the first many of whom had moved abroad in search of better
question that comes up is cost. No one really talks about opportunities but are returning home armed with the
quality or value,” says Mukherjee of overly embellished, marketing and supply-chain knowledge to help scale
overpriced garments that often mask shoddy construc- their small family businesses. Much like the Sabyasa-
tion. For customers of the brand, Sabyasachi-style value chi brand, there’s an immense respect for tradition but
means painstaking attention to detail, such as hand- an eye toward the future.
embroidered and -painted jacket linings designed For the 25th-anniversary collection, that meant
purely for the pleasure of the wearer—and not just for a stronger focus on menswear than in the past, with
women. The same level of care is given to jewelry and influences as wide-ranging as M.C. Hammer, Hamish
handbags, where there’s always a precious element on Bowles, Jawaharlal Nehru, and the Prince of Jodhpur.
both the inside and the outside. And on the occasions Bow blouses, pearls, and metallic-flecked-tweed sepa-
that the designer collaborates, he chooses his partners rates challenged traditional notions of masculinity in a
carefully. That means Christian Louboutin for footwear place where, despite the general exuberance, men are
(sneakers and smoking slippers encrusted with semipre- expected to favor blue, and women, pink. “All my clients
cious stones and gold embroidery) and, most recently, who are mourning Dries Van Noten now have some-
New York–based bespoke-eyewear maker Morgen- where to shop!” stylist Nolan Meader rejoiced at the
thal Frederics for a collection of sunglasses accented post-show party, praising the unique textiles on display,
with enameling, rare woods, and discreet placement such as an embroidered tulle that mimicked tweed.
of the Sabyasachi-tiger logo. Mukherjee is developing Much of the tailoring in India has maintained its
a fragrance that reportedly will capture the essence of historical British lean, says Mukherjee, recounting
Kolkata; renowned French noses Frédéric Malle and a story of meeting a friend who was concerned he

T
Nathalie Lorson were both spotted at the gala. was underdressed for dinner. “What do you mean?”
the designer asked. It was Mukherjee's button-front
he fastidiousness and reverence for shirt. “In India, everybody wears a button-down shirt,
craft is a much-needed balm for a time from someone selling fruit on the street to a person
when few high-ticket items actually feel
worth the price. Sabyasachi’s products,
by contrast, seem like future heirlooms.
Luxury, in Mukherjee’s view, is anything
that is made beautifully by hand without regard to
time—the ultimate resource. “We are losing our heri-
tage,” he says, “and luxury is going to be about bringing
back that heritage, which can only be brought by the
intervention of the human hand.”
“We do three jobs at Sabyasachi: One job is innova-
tion, the other is restoration, and the third job is to sen-
sitize our younger customers, who might not have seen
the richness of the vibrancy of India that their grand-

ANNIVERSARY SHOW: DOLLY DEVI; STORE: BJÖRN WALLANDER.

parents or their parents have seen, so that it puts a
desire in them to be able to own and be a part of
that heritage,” he notes, adding that the brand’s
retail spaces function a bit like living museums,
should any know-how ever be lost. “The most
important thing will be provenance, because
who are you going to buy your kimono from?
A company in Paris?”
Today, the craftspeople whom Sabyasa-
chi contracts are thriving in part because the
brand has committed to training the next gen-
eration, who grew up watching their parents
struggle. But thanks to renewed appreciation for
Indian craft (and in no small part to the fashion
industry), those parents are now building homes,

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 cleaning your toilets to an executive sitting in a board- all full speed ahead for Sabya, who refuses to fall in line
room. That’s when the penny dropped.” He realized with Western fashion houses’ strict adherence to sea-
that menswear was overdue for a refresh. sons and says it could be as long as two years before he
“My Indian customer is quite conservative [outside stages his next show (it had been five since his previous
of the weddings realm], but I am seeing a lot of non- one). Fear not: You can order select pieces from past
Indian men in America gravitating towards my mens- collections. “You don’t build a sustainable business
wear,” he says. They’re part of the global shift of men with greed,” he says.
taking far more risks with their clothes. For Mukher- Mukherjee is supremely confident in the brand’s
jee, the time he now spends in New York and the prev- potential, yet also remarkably humble, insisting that
alence of streetwear have been eye-opening. “My sense he is still the same scrappy, fearless teenager who
of tailoring is almost like a cross-cultural intervention spent three nights in a Mumbai train station. And he
between British tailoring and Indian tailoring.” still remembers his parents’ worrying about how they
Notably, many of the tailored ensembles that fea- were going to feed a family of four when his father lost
tured in the 25th-anniversary show were presented on his job. “That level of poverty can either scar you for
men and women side by side, on equal footing. “I’m the life, and you’re going to be always scared of not hav-
one who gets the glory, but I have been steered in my ing money, or it evolves you to realize that money is
professional career by a band of unflinching women so transient that it’ll come and go,” he says, noting that
who pushed me towards the destiny that I enjoy today,” while he wants to run a successful business, he has no
From left: Mukherjee, his Christopher
says the designer, reflecting on the past two-and-a-half financial “obsession.” “When you learn to detach your-
flanked by Bollywood Street store.
star Deepika Opposite: The decades. “It’s quite something for a man to be pushed self from money, you learn to take a lot of risks that
Padukone and Mangrove high- by women to do his best, because I come from a coun- your heart tells you is the right thing to do, and I have
supermodel Christy jewelry bracelet in try where there’s an overarching patriarchy. My brand always followed my instinct.”
Turlington Burns, 18-karat yellow gold was created by women who pushed me forward.” As for his mother and father? “You know, they look
during the finale set with multicolored
of his Mumbai show; gemstones and
His sister, Payal, who 25 years ago provided the seed at me and say, ‘Fine, we saw you on television. We’re
Sabya’s “showcase” E-F VVS and VS money, worked on the design team until recently. very proud of you, but we would have been prouder if
of antiques in diamonds. Despite the fanfare and the ambitious goals, it’s not you had been a doctor.’ ” ●

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