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EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
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ROGER WILLIAMS
EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
Contents
Contents
London’s Top 10
Colour reproduction by Colourscan, Singapore
British Museum 8
Printed and bound in China by Leo Paper
Products Ltd National Gallery &
10 11 12 13 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Published in the United States by DK Publishing,
National Portrait Gallery 12
375 Hudson Street, New York, New York 10014
Copyright 2002, 2010 London Eye 16
© Dorling Kindersley Limited
Reprinted with revisions
2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010 Tate Modern &
All rights reserved. Without limiting the rights under
copyright reserved above, no part of this publication Tate Britain 18
may be reproduced, stored in or introduced into a
retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any
means, (electronic, mechanical, photocopying, Natural History Museum 22
recording or otherwise), without prior written
permission of both the copyright owner and the Science Museum 24
above publisher of this book.
Published in Great Britain by
Dorling Kindersley Limited Buckingham Palace &
A catalog record for this book is available from
the Library of Congress Royal Parks and Gardens 26
ISSN 1479-344X
ISBN 978-0-7566-6074-1 Westminster Abbey &
Within each Top 10 list in this book, no hierarchy
of quality or popularity is implied. All 10 are, in the
Parliament Square 32
editor’s opinion, of roughly equal merit.
Floors are referred to throughout in accordance Tower of London 36
with British usage; ie the “first floor” is the floor
above ground level.
St. Paul’s Cathedral 40
Cover: Front – Alamy Images: David Noton Photography main. DK Images Stephen Oliver clb.
Spine – DK Images Stephen Oliver b. Back – DK Images: Philip Enticknap cl; Stephen Oliver cr;
Getty Images: Joe Cornish c.
Left Lamb and Flag pub, Covent Garden Right View from Parliament Hill
3
LONDON’S
TOP 10
London Highlights
6–7
LONDON’S TOP 10
British Museum
8–11
National Gallery &
National Portrait Gallery
12–15
London Eye
16–17
Tate Modern &
Tate Britain
18–21
Natural History Museum
22–23
Science Museum
24–25
Buckingham Palace &
Royal Parks and Gardens
26–29
Westminster Abbey &
Parliament Square
32–35
Tower of London
36–39
St Paul’s Cathedral
40–43
Top 10 of Everything
44–77
London Highlights
A city of infinite colour and variety, London is both
richly historic, tracing its roots back over 2000
years, and unceasingly modern, at the forefront of
London’s Top 10
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London’s Top 10
of science (see pp24–5).
Buckingham Palace
&
The official home of the
Queen, Buckingham Palace * Westminster Abbey
and Parliament
is one of the city’s most Square
recognizable landmarks, This royal abbey has, since
where the changing of the 1066, been the place where
Queen’s guard happens all Britain’s monarchs have
every day (see pp26–7). been crowned (see pp32–5).
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) St Paul’s
Cathedral
Sir Christopher
Wren’s Baroque
masterpiece, St
Paul’s still dominates
the City skyline and has
been the setting of many
great ceremonial events
(see pp40–43).
7
British Museum @ Mummified Cat
Cats and sacred cows
The world’s oldest museum has no fewer than 6 were mummified in Ancient
Egypt. This cat comes from
million items spanning 1.8 million years of world Abydos and dates from
civilization. The collection was started with the around 30 BC. Many
London’s Top 10
Top 10 Exhibits
1 Parthenon Sculptures
2 Mummified Cat
3 Ram in a Thicket
The British Museum façade 4 Mildenhall Treasure
There are three cafés 5 Rosetta Stone
6 Portland Vase 0
and one restaurant.
7 Rameses II
Picnics can be eaten 8 Mixtec-Aztec Mosaic Mask 9
in the forecourt by 9 Kwakwaka’wakw
the main entrance. 0 Amitabha Buddha
Highlights’ tours give
an introduction to ! Parthenon Sculptures
This spectacular 5th-
the collection. century BC frieze from the
Parthenon (below) was
The British Museum made under Pericles
shop sells repro- and shows a proces- 7
duction artifacts. sion in honour of 5
the goddess
Athena. It was
• Great Russell Street obtained in 1779
WC1 by Lord Elgin,
• Map L1 Ambassador to 1
• 020 7323 8000 Constantinople.
• www.thebritish
museum.ac.uk
• Open 10am–5:30pm
daily (selected galleries
10am–8:30pm Thu &
Fri). Great Court:
Open 9am–6pm Sun–
Wed, 9am–11pm
Thu–Sat £ Ram in a Thicket
Decorated with shells
• Guided tours at Key to Floorplan and gold leaf, this priceless
10:30am, 1pm & 3pm ornament comes from Ur
Lower floor
daily in Sumer, one of the world’s
Ground floor earliest civilizations. Games
Upper floor and musical instruments
are also displayed.
London’s Top 10
lively decorations include sea to be of the god Quetzal-
nymphs, satyrs and Hercules. coatl, and dates from the
15th century.
% Rosetta Stone
In 196 BC Egyptian priests
wrote a decree on this tablet in
both Greek and in Egyptian
hieroglyphics. Found in 1799, it
proved crucial in deciphering
3
Egyptian pictorial writing.
( Kwakwaka’wakw
The large, carved and
painted wood thunder-
bird from North America
6
was used as an anvil for
breaking coppers (a form
8 ^ Portland Vase
Sold by Britain’s
of currency) at potlatches
(ceremonies of Pacific
9 ambassador to Naples, Coast peoples in which
Sir William Hamilton, to chiefs destroyed their
the Duchess of Portland, worldly goods).
this exquisite 1st-century
blue-and-opaque glass
vase comes from a tomb ) Amitabha Buddha
This impressive
in Rome, and was stoneware Buddha dates
probably made by a from around AD 585,
Greek craftsman. during the Chinese Sui
Dynasty, when Buddhism
became the state religion.
Museum Guide
Visitor guides with
full maps are on sale
at the information desk
in the Great Court and
shops. Otherwise start
to the left of the main
entrance with the
Assyrian, Egyptian,
& Rameses II
This is all that remains
Greek and Roman
galleries. The North
of the colossal granite Wing ethnography
statue of Rameses II and Asian galleries
(c1275 BC) from his provide a change from
memorial temple at Classical material, as
Thebes. The statue was do the early British,
acquired in the late 18th medieval and Renais-
century by Charles sance collections on
Townley, British the east side.
ambassador to Rome.
£ Greek and
Roman Antiquities Floorplan
Highlights from the Classical world
(c.3000 BC to c.AD 400) include modern day, this collection in-
the Parthenon sculptures and cludes Lindow Man, a 2,000-year-
exquisite Greek and Roman vases. old body found preserved in a
peat bog, the Sutton Hoo Ship
$ Japanese and
Oriental Antiquities
Burial and some fine decorative
arts including medieval jewellery
Buddhist limestone reliefs from and Renaissance clocks.
India, Chinese antiquities, Islamic
pottery and a Japanese collection
so large it has to be shown on a & Coins and Medals
A comprehensive collection
rotating basis. of more than 750,000 coins and
medals dating from the 7th
Native Canadian
gull mask
century BC to the present day.
% Ethnography
An incredible 350,000 objects ( Enlightenment
This exhibition features the
from indigenous peoples around museum’s 18th-century collec-
the world. The Africa gallery holds tions from around the world.
a fine array of art and artifacts.
London’s Top 10
2 Mahatma Gandhi Sir Norman Foster. In the centre of the Court is the
(1869–1948), Indian leader domed Reading Room, built in 1857. Holding one
3 Oscar Wilde (1854–1900), of the world’s most important collections of books
playwright and wit and manuscripts, the Reading Room has been the
4 Virginia Woolf workplace of some of London’s greatest writers.
(1882–1941), Having been used as temporary exhibition space for
Bloomsbury novelist major exhibitions, it reverted to its normal use in
5 WB Yeats (1865–1939), 2009. The Great Court is the capital’s largest covered
Irish poet and playwright square and contains shops, cafés and the British
6 Thomas Hardy Museum’s main information desk, supplying visitors
(1840–1928), English with everything they need for an informed visit.
novelist
7 George Bernard Shaw
(1856–1950), Irish
playwright
8 EM Forster (1879–1970),
English novelist
9 Rudyard Kipling
(1865–1936) Poet,
novelist and chronicler
Rooftop View of the Great Court
of Empire The top of the Reading Room dome protrudes
0 Leon Trotsky (1879–1940), from the new glass roof of the Great Court. The
Russian revolutionary public can now use the room to access information
about the museum’s collections by computer.
11
National Gallery
The National Gallery has around 2,300 pictures,
from the early Renaissance to the Impressionists
(1250–1900), forming one of the greatest col-
London’s Top 10
London’s Top 10
^ Mystic Nativity
Feminine grace has never been depicted
better than by the painter Sandro Botticelli
(1445–1510). Painted in a centennial year,
Mystic Nativity reflects his own anxieties,
with an inscription from Revelation.
7
( AinWoman Bathing
a Stream
This portrait by Rembrandt
(1606–69) was painted
5 when his technical
powers were at their
0 height, and shows his
striking brushwork and
mastery of earthy colours.
Getty
entrance
Trafalgar
Square
entrance
1
* AStanding
Young Woman
at a
West Wing displays
works from 1500 to
Virginal 1600, the North Wing
Peace and calm rule the 1600–1700, and the
works of the Dutch painter East Wing 1700–1900.
Jan Vermeer (1632–75). Although the main
Many of his interiors entrance is on Trafalgar
(above) were painted in Square, the Sainsbury
his home in Delft, but it Wing makes a more
has never been possible sensible starting point.
to identify his models.
Free concerts at
6:30pm on Fridays,
and lectures at 7pm
on Thursdays.
14
5
Key to Floorplan 7 6
2
Ground floor 0 1 4
First floor 8 3
Second floor 9
London’s Top 10
$ The Whitehall Mural
This cartoon of Henry VII
and his son Henry VIII by Hans
Holbein (1537) was drawn for Germaine Greer
a large mural in the Palace ( The feminist author
of Whitehall, lost when the of The Female Eunuch
palace burnt down in 1698. is brilliantly captured
(below) by Portuguese
George Gordon, artist Paula Rego, the
6th Lord Byron % first artist-in-residence at
This painting of Lord the National Gallery.
Byron (1788–1824), by
Thomas Phillips, depicts
the poet and champion of
liberty in Albanian dress.
He died fighting with
Greek insurgents
against the Turks.
^ Horatio Nelson
This 1799 portrait
(below) by Guy Head
depicts Nelson after the
Battle of the Nile. Apart
from Queen Victoria and ) Margaret
Thatcher
the Duke of Wellington, Today’s famous are more
he was painted more likely to sit for a photo-
often than any other grapher than a painter.
British figure in history. This revealing portrait of
the former British prime
minister by Helmut Newton
allows you to study her in
a way you would never
dare in real life.
Gallery Guide
The gallery’s three floors
are arranged chronologi-
cally. Take the escalator
to the second floor and
start with the Tudor and
Stuart galleries (1–8).
& Alfred Lord
Tennyson Men and women of arts,
This picture of the poet science and industry
from the 18th and early
laureate is by one of the
pioneers of photography, * The Beatles
Photographic portraits 19th century are in
Julia Margaret Cameron took on a new lease of life galleries 9 to 20. The
(1815–79). She was given in the 1960s, when pho- first floor has eminent
a camera at the age of tographers themselves Victorians and early pho-
48 and was noted for her became stars. Norman tographs. The balcony
memorable portraits of Parkinson, who took this and ground-floor
Tennyson, the naturalist picture of the Beatles, galleries have 20th- and
Charles Darwin and the was one of Vogue’s favour- 21st-century works.
essayist Thomas Carlyle. ite fashion photographers.
of London. Towering over the Thames opposite the Wharf (see p153) in the
heart of Docklands, the
Houses of Parliament, it was built to celebrate the East London business
Millennium year, and has proved enormously and finance centre. It
popular. Its 32 enclosed capsules each hold 25 stands in the middle of
the Isle of Dogs, in an
people and offer total visibility in all directions. A area formerly occupied
flight on the London Eye takes 30 minutes and, on by the West India Docks.
a clear day, you can see up to 40 km (25 miles)
across the capital and the south of England.
Top 10 Sights
1 Houses of Parliament
2 Wren Churches
3 Canada Tower
4 Tower 42
5 British Telecom Tower
Observation capsule
6 Windsor Castle
There are two cafés 7 Heathrow
in County Hall. 8 Alexandra Palace
9 Crystal Palace
Tickets are available
0 Queen Elizabeth II Bridge
on the day but
advanced booking is
advisable, especially
at weekends and in
the school holidays.
After-dark flights
make the city look
romantic.
London’s Top 10
that was moved here in
% British Telecom Tower
Built for the Post Office in 1961–5,
1852 and burned down
spectacularly in 1936.
this 190-m (620-ft) tower (left) is a
television, radio and telecommunications
tower. At the height of terrorist activity in
the 1970s, the revolving restaurant at the
top was closed and has never re-opened.
) Queen
Elizabeth II Bridge
On a clear day you can
just make out the lowest
downstream crossing on
the Thames, a huge sus-
pension bridge at Dartford,
some 32 km (20 miles)
away. Traffic flows north in
a tunnel under the river,
south over the bridge.
Millennium
Legacy
The London Eye was
one of a number of
nationwide projects
^ Windsor Castle
Windsor Castle sits & Heathrow
To the west of the
designed for the
Millennium. The focus in
by the Thames to the city, London’s main airport London was on the
west of London (below). is one of the busiest enormous Millennium
The largest occupied international airports in the Dome, a spectacular
castle in the world, it is world. The Thames acts structure built in
still a favourite residence as a kind of runway, as Greenwich to house a
of the royal family. planes line up overhead national exhibition.
to begin their descent. Other projects were
Tate Modern (see
* Alexandra Palace
The world’s first
pp18–19) and the
Millennium Bridge, the
high-definition television Waterloo Millennium
broadcasting service was Pier, the Great Court at
transmitted by the BBC the British Museum
from Alexandra Palace on (see pp8–11) and the
2 November 1936. There opening up of Somerset
is an ice hockey rink and House (see p99).
exhibition halls here.
17
Tate Modern
Affiliated with Tate Britain (see pp20–21),
London’s most exciting new gallery is housed
within the old Bankside power station, on a prime
London’s Top 10
18
% Coffee The Reckless
Pierre Bonnard (1867– * Sleeper ) Spatial Concept
“Waiting”
1947) frequently painted René Magritte (1898– The Italian-Argentine
life at the dining table. 1967) painted this work artist Lucio Fontana
In this 1915 canvas, (below) in 1928, during (1899–1968) began to
the artist portrayed his a period in which he cut canvases in 1959.
London’s Top 10
wife Marthe sipping explored Surrealism and Although these cuts were
coffee with her pet Freudian symbolism. A carefully premeditated,
dachshund by her side, man sleeps in an alcove they were executed
suggesting an intimate above a dark sky and a in an instant. In this
domestic routine. tablet embedded with work, Spatial Concept
everyday objects, as if “Waiting” (below), the
Suicide dreamed by the sleeper. cut erupts from the
This painting by ^ surface, giving the
George Grosz (1893– impression of a gesture
1959) reflects the artist’s towards the viewer in a
disillusionment with way that is at once both
German society energetic and threatening.
especially during
World War I.
( Fish
Constantin Brancusi
(1876–1957) created Fish
in 1926. This sculpture
Gallery Guide
presents a bronze “fish”
on a polished disc above The main entrance is
a wooden base. Brancusi down a ramp into the
was known for his huge Turbine Hall below
ability to capture the ground level, on level 1,
essential qualities of his where the coat check,
subjects in elementary, information and main
abstract forms. shop are. You can also
enter the gallery on the
ground floor, level 2, by
the Café or by the
Millennium Bridge. The
& Summertime
No. 9A
main themed galleries
are on level 3 (material
The American Jackson gestures; poetry and
Pollock (1912–56) was the dream) and level 5,
pioneer of Action Painting. which includes a new
He carried out his first learning zone. Temporary
“drip” painting in 1947, exhibitions are on level
pouring paint on to huge 4, and level 7 has a
canvases on the floor. restaurant with great
Summertime No. 9A views of the Thames .
(below) dates from 1948. As with many London
galleries, Tate’s works of
art are sometimes
moved temporarily,
loaned out or removed
for restoration.
Henry Tate (1819–99) who made his fortune from sugar. (1727–88) was a
portrait and landscape
The collection contains works by all Britain’s major painter and a favourite
painters, and was greatly added to by J M W Turner. of the Royal Family.
Paintings are often moved to Tate’s other galleries, His family groups in
landscapes are among
loaned out or removed for restoration. The works on the finest “Conversa-
these pages, therefore, may not always be on display. tion pieces” in English
art. An artistic inter-
Top 10 Paintings pretation of his native
1 Norham Castle, Sunrise Suffolk, this is one of
his earliest landscapes,
2 The Deluge painted in 1747.
3 Wooded Landscape
with a Peasant Resting
4 Three Ladies Adorning
a Term of Hymen
Tate Britain’s grand portico 5 The Lady of Shalott
6 Elohim Creating Adam
Good basement café.
7 A Scene from the
Excellent restaurant,
Beggar’s Opera
with good wine list. 8 Carnation, Lily, Lily, Rose
9 Recumbent Figures
Free guided tours, 0 Three Studies for Figures
talks and films every at the Base of a Crucifixion
day of the week. Free
audio guides are also
available.
Comprehensive art
bookshop.
Free cloakroom.
London’s Top 10
Schools in promising in his view of
London, John life. When first shown,
William this series of paintings
Waterhouse caused an immediate
(1849–1917) famously sensation, shocking
revived the literary
themes of the Pre- ^ Elohim
Creating Adam
audiences with their
savage imagery. They have
Raphaelites, as seen in Born in London and trained become some of his best-
this piece. Waterhouse’s at the Royal Academy known works (below).
subject is taken from School, poet, mystic,
Lord Alfred Tennyson’s illustrator and engraver
tragic poem of the William Blake (1757–1827)
same name. claimed to be guided by
visions. Elohim Creating
Adam is typical of his
work, of which the Tate
has a large collection.
Gallery Guide
The permanent
collection occupies
& Girl
Dog
with White
three-quarters of the
This picture (above) by main floor. Starting in
Lucian Freud (b1922) the northwest corner, it
shows the artist’s wife follows a broad chrono-
while pregnant. The style logical sweep from the
of the painting has roots 16th century to the
in the linear portraiture of present. The collection
the 19th-century French is arranged into rooms
painter Ingres. exploring historical
themes interspersed
with displays devoted
to single major artists.
Impressive loan exhibi-
tions covering all
manner of British art
are installed in the
remaining quarter of the
main floor and in the
six new galleries on the
* Carnation,
Lily, Rose
Lily,
( Recumbent
Figures lower floor. The Turner
John Singer Sargent One of several 20th- Bequest, some 300 oil
(1856–1925) moved to century artists from paintings and about
Britain from Paris in 1885 Yorkshire, Henry Moore 20,000 watercolours
and adopted some of the (1898–1986) was an out- by J M W Turner, is
Impressionist techniques standing sculptor whose displayed in the
established by his friend, work is on public display adjoining Clore Gallery,
Claude Monet. The title around London. This with oil paintings and
of this work is from a drawing by Moore shows watercolours on view.
popular song of the time. two sleeping figures.
Top 10 Exhibits
1 The Vault
2 Earthquake Simulator
3 Journey Through the Globe
4 No. 1 Crawley House
5 Model Baby
6 Water Cycle Video Wall
7 Fossils
Main entrance 8 Blue Whale 0
22
% Model Baby
A giant model of an unborn baby in the Human
Biology galleries demonstrates sounds heard in
the womb. Other hands-on exhibits test abilities and
reactions and show how physical
characteristics are inherited.
London’s Top 10
^ Water Cycle Video Wall
A semi-spherical video wall in
the Ecology Gallery shows the ( Dinosaurs
T. Rex, one of the
water cycle and how it links all life museum’s impressively
on the planet. A walk-through leaf life-like animatronic
shows how plants make oxygen. models, lurches and
roars in this hugely
popular gallery. More
traditional exhibits of
fossilized skeletons and
eggs are also on display.
) Darwin Centre
The centre features
an eight-storey concrete
structure in the shape of
a cocoon, which is home
to over 200 scientists,
2 and provides protection
to millions of insects and
plant specimens.
Key to Floorplan
Ground floor
First floor
Second floor
Museum Guide
The Natural History
Museum is divided into
& Fossils
Marine reptiles that four distinct sections:
1 lived at the time of the the blue zone, which
dinosaurs have survived includes the dinosaur
in some remarkable gallery; the green zone,
fossils, such as the which includes the
pregnant female ecology and creepy-
Ichthyosaur, found in a crawlies galleries; the
Dorset garden, which orange zone, which
3 includes a wildlife
lived 187–178 million
years ago. garden; and the red
zone, which incorporates
the geological displays.
* Blue Whale
The Mammal gallery The ornately
houses this fascinating embellished Cromwell
exhibit, where both Road entrance leads to
modern mammals and the imposing central hall
their fossil relatives are with its grand staircase.
dwarfed in comparison An additional entrance
to the astounding life- on Exhibition Road
sized model of a blue leads to the red zone.
whale, the largest
mammal in the world.
For more London museums See pp48–9 23
Science Museum
Packed with exciting hands-on exhibits, this £ Apollo 10
Command Module
huge museum explores the fascinating world The Apollo 10 Command
of science through centuries of scientific and Module, which went around
London’s Top 10
Visitor information
touch screens 8
throughout the
7
museum give details
of exhibits.
London’s Top 10
used to transport coal. surround sound system
George Stephenson’s will totally immerse
famous 1829 Rocket, the you in the action.
first locomotive engine to
pull passenger carriages,
is also on display.
2
4
Key to Floorplan
Museum Guide
Basement The museum is spread
Ground floor over seven floors.
Heavy machinery and
First floor large-scale museum
highlights are on the
Second floor
& Health Matters
Health Matters is a Third floor
ground floor. Tele-
communications, time,
multimedia look at medi- agriculture and weather
Fourth floor are on the first floor.
cine. Aids, cancer and
heart disease are review- Fifth floor The new Energy Gallery
ed by patients and and computing are on
physicians. Take a look at Wellcome Wing the second floor, and
“Jedi” helmets used for heat, health and flight
MRI scans of the brain.
* Launchpad
This hands-on gallery
are on the third. The
fourth and fifth floors
is aimed specifically at are dedicated to
children. In this area medical history. At the
(left), friendly “explainers” west end of the building
make key science is the four-storey
principles fun and easy Wellcome Wing.
to understand.
Victoria Monument
• Buckingham Palace
SW1 • Map J6
• 020 7766 7300 ! Changing
the Guard
of
@ Th e Balcony
On special occasions, the
(booking line) • www. The Palace guards, in Queen and other members of
royalcollection.org.uk their familiar red tunics the Royal Family step on to the
• State Apartments: and tall bearskin hats, Palace balcony to wave to the
Open Aug–Sep: 9:45am– are changed at 11am crowds gathered below.
6pm daily (last adm each morning (10am on
3:45pm). Admission: Sundays, and alternate
adults £16.50; students days in winter). The
and over 60s £15; under guards march to the
17s £9.50; family ticket Palace from the nearby
£44; under 5s free Wellington Barracks.
• Royal Mews: 020 7766
7302 Open Apr–Oct:
11am–4pm daily (last adm
3:15pm). Admission: adults
£7.50; students and over
60s £6.75; under 17s £ Qu een’s Gallery
The gallery hosts a
£4.80; under 5s free changing programme of
• Queen’s Gallery: 020 exhibitions of the Royal
7766 7301 Open 10am– Collection’s masterpieces,
5:30pm (last adm 4:30pm) including works by artists
such as Johannes Vermeer
and Leonardo da Vinci.
26
$ Grand Staircase
The Ambassadors’
Entrance leads into the
Grand Hall. From here
the magnificent Grand
Staircase, with gilded
London’s Top 10
balustrades, rises to the
first floor where the
State Rooms are found.
% Throne Room
This houses the
thrones of Queen Eliza- ^ Picture Gallery
The largest room in & State Ballroom
Banquets for visiting
beth and Prince Philip the Palace has a barrel- heads of state are held
used for the coronation. vaulted glass ceiling and here. The most glittering
Designed by John Nash, contains a number of social event of the year
the room has a highly paintings from the Royal is in November, when
ornamented ceiling and Collection, including works 1,200 members of the
magnificent chandeliers. by Rembrandt (above), Diplomatic Corps arrive
Rubens and Van Dyck. in full court dress.
* Royal Mews
Caring for 34 horses, ( Palace Garden
The extensive Palace
Palace Life
including the Windsor garden is an oasis for The official business of
Greys, which pull the wildlife and includes a the monarchy takes
royal coach on state four-acre lake. There are place in the Palace,
occasions, these are the at least three Royal which has a staff of
finest working stables in garden parties each year, around 300. The Duke
Britain. The collection of to which over 30,000 of Edinburgh, Duke of
coaches, landaus and people attend (below). York, Prince Edward
carriages includes and the Princess Royal
the magnificent Gold all have offices here.
State Coach, which The most senior member
was built in c.1760. of the Royal Household
is the Lord Chamberlain.
The Master of the
) Brougham
Every day a Household and 200
horse-drawn domestic staff organize
Brougham carriage many functions in the
sets out to collect Palace every year,
and deliver royal including around 25
packages around Investitures for recipients
London, including of awards which are
the Palace’s weekly given by The Queen.
copy of Country Life.
London’s Top 10
and an open-air theatre, park. There are great near Hampton Court.
Regent’s Park (above) views of the Old Royal Highlights include the
is surrounded by John Naval College (below), and Arethusa “Diana” Fountain
Nash’s Classical terraces. over London (see p147). and Chestnut Avenue.
The fragrant Queen
Mary’s Rose Garden is
a delight (see p129).
% Green Park
Popular with
was taken from the
Church by Henry VIII in
office workers, this the 1530s, during the
small park (below) Reformation. He was a
has deckchairs for passionate hunter and
hire in summer. It filled Hyde, Green and
was once part of St James’s parks with
the grounds of St deer. Henry also hunted
James’s Palace. in Greenwich Park,
London’s oldest, having
* Primrose Hill
North of Regent’s
been founded in 1433.
From the late 17th
Park, Primrose Hill offers century, parks were land-
spectacular views of the scaped and gardens laid
city skyline from its 66-m out. In 1689 William and
(216-ft) summit. Once a Mary ordered the plant-
popular venue for duels, ing of Kensington Gar-
this small park was saved dens. In 1811 the Prince
from development in Regent and Nash built
1841 when it was the private estate that
taken over by the became Regent’s Park.
Crown Commissioners.
London’s Top 10
pavement when used for 3
coronations.
7
^ Tomb of
Elizabeth I
2 0
England’s great 8
Protestant queen (1553–
1603) is buried on one
side of the Lady Chapel
while the tomb of her
Catholic rival, Mary Queen
of Scots (beheaded in
1587), is on the other
side. Mary’s remains were Cloisters
brought to the abbey by )The cloisters were
James I in 1612. located at the heart of
the former Benedictine
The Choir monastery and would
& The all-boy have been the mon-
Westminster Abbey astery’s busiest area.
Choir School, the only On the east side are
school in England the only remaining parts
devoted entirely to of the Norman church,
choristers, produces the the Pyx Chamber, where
choir which sings here coinage was tested in
every day. The present medieval times, and
organ was installed in the Undercroft, which
1937 and first used contains a museum.
at the coronation of
George VI.
Abbey History
A Benedictine monas-
tery was established by
St Dunstan (AD 909–
988) on what was the
marshy Isle of Thorney.
King Edward the Con-
fessor re-endowed the
monastery, and founded
the present church in
1065. William the Con-
querer was crowned
* Grave of the
Unknown Warrior
here in 1066. Henry III’s
and abbey. The square was planned as part of the known as Big Ben. How-
ever, the name
rebuilding programme following a fire that destroyed actually refers to
the Palace in 1834. Usually known as the Houses of the clock’s 14-
Parliament, the new Palace of Westminster stands tonne bell, named
after Sir Benjamin
opposite Westminster Abbey. On the north side of the Hall, who was
square, Parliament Street leads to Whitehall and No.10 Chief Commis-
Downing Street, the Prime Minister’s residence. sioner of Works
when it was
installed in
Top 10 Sights 1858.
1 Westminster Abbey
2 Houses of Parliament
3 Big Ben
Detail above Central Hall 4 Westminster Hall
window 5 St Margaret’s Church
The basement café in 6 Winston Churchill Statue
Central Hall is a good 7 Central Hall
place for a snack. 8 Dean’s Yard
To avoid long lines 9 Jewel Tower
for the Strangers’ 0 Statue of Oliver Cromwell
Galleries go after
6pm Mon–Thu.
! Westminster
Abbey
• Parliament Square SW1 See pp32–3.
• Map M6
• www.parliament.uk
• The Strangers’ Galleries
at the Houses of Parlia-
ment have limited
seating for visitors during
debates. Times are given
at St Stephen’s gate, or
phone 020 7219 4272
• Tours can be arranged
through MPs at www. $ Westminster Hall
Westminster Hall (left) is
parliament.uk • Tickets for about all of the original palace
summer opening of that remained after the 1834
parliament are available fire. For centuries the high
from 0844 209 0382 court sat beneath its marvel-
lous hammerbeam roof.
Houses of Parliament
A Gothic revival building @
from 1870 by Sir Charles Barry
and Augustus Welby Pugin, the
Houses of Parliament cover 8
acres and have 1,100 rooms
around 11 courtyards. The
Commons Chamber (right) is
where Members of Parliament
sit and debate policy.
34
Plan of the Square
*
7 * ( 2 5 *
( 6 7
%5,'*(67
0 3
6
5 <
8$
67 0$5 *$
7 1&
7
5 4
London’s Top 10
6$
'
& Central Hall %5
2$
1 2
5( 76 7
This large assembly
hall, built in a Beaux
8 9
Arts style, was funded
by a collection among * Dean’s Yard
Buildings around
the Methodist Church this secluded square
who wanted to
celebrate the
were used by monks
before the Dissolution ( Jewel Tower
Built in 1365 to
centenary of their of the Monasteries in safeguard the treasure
founder John the 1530s which of Edward III, this is
Wesley (1703–91). closed their school an isolated survivor of
here. A new West- the 1834 fire. A small
minster School museum about the
was founded by history of parliament
Elizabeth I in is housed inside.
1560 and it
remains one of
Britain’s top ) Statue of Oliver
Cromwell
public schools. Oliver Cromwell (1599–
1658) presided over
England’s only republic,
which began after the
Civil War. He was buried
in Westminster Abbey,
but when the monarchy
was restored in 1660,
his corpse was taken
to Tyburn and hanged as
though he were a criminal.
Parliament
The 659 publicly elected
Members of Parliament
sit in the House of
Commons, where the
Prime Minister and his
or her government sits
% St Margaret’s
Church ^ Winston
Statue
Churchill on the right-hand side
of the Speaker, who
Winston Churchill was This powerful statue of ensures the House’s
among many eminent Britain’s wartime leader rules are obeyed. The
figures to marry (1874–1965), opposing “shadow”
in this 15th- dressed in his government sits on his
century church. famous coat, is left. The neighbouring
William Caxton one of several House of Lords is for
(1422–91), who statues in the an unelected upper
set up the first square. These chamber which has
printing press in include prime around 700 members
England, and Sir minister and limited powers.
Walter Raleigh, Benjamin Disraeli The Prime Minister
who established (1804–81), attends a weekly
the first British American presi- audience with the
colony in America, are dent Abraham Lincoln Queen, who today has
both buried here. Charles I (1809–65), and many other only a symbolic role.
is also remembered (right). statesmen and soldiers.
35
Tower of London
London’s great riverside fortress is usually
remembered as a place of imprisonment, but it
also has a more glorious past. Originally a moated
London’s Top 10
the Evangelist
The finest Norman
place of worship in
@ Imperial
State Crown
London (left), which
remains much as it
This is the most was when it was
dazzling of a dozen built, is on the
crowns in the Jewel upper floor of the
House. It has 2,800 White Tower. In
diamonds, and the
sapphire at its top $ The Bloody
Tower
1399, in preparation
for Henry IV’s coronation
is from the reign of The displays here explore procession, 40 noble knights
Edward the Confessor the dark history of the held vigil here. They then
(r.1042–66). The Bloody Tower where mur- took a purifying bath in an
crown was made for derous deeds, including adjoining room and Henry
the coronation of the killing of the Little made them the first Knights
George VI in 1937. Princes, took place. of the Order of the Bath.
London’s Top 10
3 17
& The Royal Armouries
This national collection of
4
6
arms and armour, shared with the 9
Royal Armouries’ other museums
in Leeds and Portsmouth, was
greatly expanded under Henry VIII. Plan of the Tower
) Beauchamp Tower
The new displays in
this tower explore the
different experiences
of real prisoners of the
Tower, including Lady
Jane Grey and the Kray
twins. The tower takes
its name from Thomas
Beauchamp, Earl of
Warwick, who was im-
prisoned here between
1397–99 by Richard II.
Tower History
William I’s White Tower,
built by Gundolph,
Bishop of Rochester,
was intended to
defend London against
attacks – and to be a
visible sign to the
native Anglo-Saxon
population of the
conquering Normans’
power. Henry III
(r.1216–72) built the
inner wall with its 13
towers and brought
* Tower Green
The place of execution for the Crown Jewels
nobility, including Lady Jane Grey here. The city arsenal
(1554) and two of Henry VIII’s was kept here, and
wives – Katherine Howard (1542) under Henry VIII
and Anne Boleyn (1536). (r.1509–47) the Royal
Armouries were
improved. James I
(r.1603–25) was the
last monarch to stay
( Traitors’
Gate in residence. All
The oak and iron coinage in Great
watergate in the Britain was minted
outer wall (above) in the Outer Ward of
was used to bring the Tower until 1810
many prisoners to when the Royal Mint
the Tower, and was established
became known nearby, on Tower Hill.
as Traitors’ Gate.
Left Bell Tower Centre Apartment in the Bloody Tower Right Beauchamp Tower
Tower Prisoners
Sites of
! Bishop of Durham
The first political prisoner to imprison-
5
be held in the White Tower was ment 6
Ralph de Flambard, Bishop of 7 1
Durham. Locked up by Henry l in 3
1100, he was seen as responsible 40 2
for the unpopular policies of
9 8
Henry’s predecessor, William ll.
Anne Boleyn and Katherine
@ Henry Vl
During the Wars of the Roses,
Howard, are buried in the Chapel
Royal of St Peter ad Vincula.
between the rival families of York
and Lancaster, Henry VI was kept
in Wakefield Tower for five years, ^ The Dudley Family
Lord Dudley and his four
until restored to power in 1470. brothers were imprisoned (before
their execution) in the Beauchamp
( John Gerard
He escaped from the Cradle
Tower with a fellow prisoner in
1597, using a rope strung over the
moat by an accomplice in a boat.
Chapel of St Peter ad Vincula
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