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 WOLFGANG BRUHN - MAX TILKE

A PICTORIAL HISTORY
OF COSTUME

A SURVEY OF COSTUME OF ALL PERIODS AND PEOPLES FROM ANTIQUITY

TO MODERN TIMES INCLUDING NATIONAL COSTUMEIN

EUROPE AND NON-EUROPEAN COUNTRIES

LONDON .- A. ZWEMMER LTD.

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 BREPAGHE

The excellent reception accorded Bruhn-Tilke’s “Kostiimwerk” when it first appeared in Germany in 1941, and the
interest in it that has been manifested since, have made it desirable that an English edition should be published.
This book is the result of a life-time of study by Max Tilke who for many years collaborated in the production of Dr. Ros-
enberg’s ““Geschichte des Kostiims”, and his knowledge of costume was as considerable as his love of drawing and paint-
ing. Dr. Wolfgang Bruhn, Curator of the Berlin State Library and Director of the famous Lipperheide Kostiimbibliothek,
collaborated as an expert advisor and editor of the captions to the plates based on Dr. Tilke’s own notes.
With its 200 plates representing nearly 4000 specimens of costumes the book embraces the whole subject of the history
of costume. It presents a survey of the most important garments of all times and all peoples from Antqiuity to the end
of the 19th century.
The original German edition was a bulky volume with plates printed on one side of the paper only. In order to achieve
a more handy volume the present edition has the plates printed on both sides of the paper. The economy thus effected has
made it possible to publish at a very reasonable price inspite of the enormous increases in the cost of printing that have
taken place since 1941. By printing on both sides of the paper the original sequence of the plates has had to be altered
for technical reasons, but these changes are few and not of importance. The twelve plates representing cuts or patterns of
costumes which appeared in the text of the original edition have been excluded from the present volume as they are
incorporated in Tilke’s complementary work, “Kostiimschnitte und Gewandformen” (1948).
The colour plates are facsimiles from the originals coloured by Max Tilke. The monochrome plates have been produced
partly from Tilke’s drawings and partly from engravings and photographs in the Lipperheide Kostiimbibliothek. Our
sincere thanks are due to the directors of the Staatliche Kunstbibliothek for permitting the use of patterns from engravings
and photographs selected by Dr. Wolfgang Bruhn.
 DE PaAres OF THE «PLATES
ANTIQUITY
ANCIENT EGYPT. Old Kingdom till about 2000 B.C., Middle Kingdom about 2100, New Kingdom about 1530 B.C. 1
Top Group 7. Official (Middle Kingdom) with a lengthened loin-cloth,
1. King of the 5th Dynasty wearing a loin-cloth of pleated neck decoration, wig and short beard as a sign of rank.
gold material, with a lion’s tail fixed at the back. (Privilege The beard, not favoured by the Egyptians, is shaved off.
of the king, probably of the early times when the chiefs of But on ceremonial occasions in order to enhance the dig-
the African primitive race ornamented themselves with nity of the wearer, an artificial beard is fixed by means of
such trophies). In front of the loin-cloth a stiff triangular ribbons to the ears. The longest beard was worn by the
piece of linen, and over it the regal ornaments. The head is king.
covered with the striped head-cloth with the sacred uraeus 8. Egyptian of the 5th Dynasty with the linen triangle in front
(cf. 10 side view). Further royal insignia: The artificial of the loin-cloth (cf. 1), Collar with pendant. Wig.
medium-sized beard and the two types of sceptre, the crook 9. Woman of the Middle Kingdom. Patterned tunic (similar
and the whip (probably originally a symbol of agriculture to 8). Wig, fan.
and stock-rearing). 10-16. New Kingdom from 1600 B.C.
. Egyptian of rank. His high rank is shown by the ceremonial 10. King of the New Kingdom acting as sacrificial priest.
loin-cloth (partly made of golden material like the king’s)
and by the stick and club (commander’s baton). He wears Bottom Group
a short curled wig.
. Egyptian woman, grinding grain with an ancient hand-mill. 11. Man of rank in a shirt-like garment with two loin-cloths,
The tunic indicates a better class woman; the slave women collar and wig with a feather stuck into it and carrying a
usually wear hardly any clothes. The hair is tied up by stick with an animal’s head (originally a king’s sceptre, later
bands. on carried by high officials and ordinary people).
. Woman of rank dressed in a tunic; the original braces for 12. Man with shirt-like garment, but only one loin-cloth
keeping up the garment are widened here and cover the visible; collar; band tied round the wig.
breasts, thus forming a V-neck. The material is light and 13. Mourner from a funeral procession.
diaphanous. In addition a linen mantle, coloured collar 14. Woman wearing a mantle. The greater variety in garments
embroidered with glass beads. Wrist and ankle bracelets. corresponds to that of the men. In the New Kingdom,
Over the parted hair a wig with a decorated metal fillet or fashion requires a tight fitting garment, exposing one
diadem. shoulder, and a wide mantle, carried across the front and
. Woman returning from the market in a checked tunic with draped over one shoulder. Both are often quite diaphanous
wide white braces. Ornamental collar, bracelets, large black allowing the shape of the body to be seen.
kerchief (obviously not a wig). 15. Man of rank in a shirt-like garment with two sleeves and
a vety small loin-cloth on top. Neck ornamentation and
Centre Group wig.
6. Official or man of rank with a stick. Simple loin-cloth in the 16. Lower official or king’s servant. Neck decoration, bracelets
style of the Old Kingdom. The shaven head is not covered and loin-cloth with a heart-shaped piece of material in
by a cap or wig, which is necessary in the hot sun. front. On the head a perfume container which slowly drips.

ANCIENT EGYPT. Times of Rameses I. - Rameses III. 1350-1200 B.C. 2

Top Group
1, High Official with the white ostrich feather fan, a high paint box with red and black under his arm, and the papyrus
decoration of honour, which gradually became the emblem scroll in his hand. The boxes on the floor with protecting
of rank, for instance for King’s Favourite and other titles of bags are for the rolled-up papyri.
honour. Princes and the highest officials or army comman- Oo. Temple attendant carrying a vessel with sacrificial liquid.

ders were given the feather fan. Collar (round collar), wig 4. High Priest from Heliopolis with a leopard’s skin (decor-
and bast sandals. The loin-cloth is wrapped over the long ated with silver stars). Priests’ garments were not sewn, The
tunic. hair is shorn. He wears a wig which is seldom worn by priests.
. Scribe; a vocation found frequently in ancient Egypt. The 5. Sacrificial priest with incense burner. Loin-cloth, leopard
reed pen is stuck into the wig behind the ear. He carries the skin, white band on upper part of body. Straw sandals.
Centre Group
6 and 10. Royal princes in war apparel, distinguished by a long on the armoured jacket as though enfolding him with its
plaited lock on the side of their heads. This lock, originally wings.
only worn by children, was later, in a conventionalized 2, The King’s bow-bearer dressed in a tight protective quilted
form, a prerogative of princes. The armour consists of garment covered with small bronze plates. On his head a
leather covered with metal pieces. No. 10 has leather strips quilted cap.
wound spirally round the body. He has also a feather fan.
. Companion of the Prince, with his master’s bow and Bottom Group
shield, covered with skin. 11 and 12. Nubian archers.
. The King with the characteristic regal girdle decoration 13-15. Soldiers with ordinary kerchief and heart-shaped leather
hanging down in front (cf. Plate I, 1). The Pharaoh wears front piece over the loin-cloth or (14 and 15) a quilted outer
the peculiar royal helmet (cheperesh) with the uraeus; the tunic carrying sickle-shaped knives, clubs or battle-axe.
sacred vulture who protects the king in war is embroidered Shields with eye-holes.

% ANCIENT EGYPT. New Kingdom about 1350 B.C.

Top Group
ti The King. The hood with the uraeus falls down on both a; The Queen as wife of a god. The Egyptian gods had a harem
sides in two pleated strips and is gathered on his back like of living noble ladies; especially the god Ammon (the
a plait. He wears an artificial beard as a sign of a king, chief deity at Thebes with a human or a ram’s head).
a diaphanous garment over the loin-cloth (invisible), girdle Usually the queen (the Pharaoh’s wife) is the earthly wife of
decoration and sandals made of papyrus (cf. Plate I, 1). Ammon, the wife of a god. Her attributes are plumes, solar
. The King’s footman or runner wearing an outer garment disk, diadem, neck ornaments, the handle-cross and lotus
interwoven with gold. He carries quiver and bow, stick or sceptte. According to the old rite she wears the tight
club by means of which the runners made way for the fitting tunic widening from below the knees and leaving the
royal procession. breasts exposed, a garment worn by the women of older
. Queen of the 19th Dynasty (14th cent. B.C.) in her hand times. Even Cleopatra, the friend of Anthony and Caesar,
the scourge, one of the royal insignia. On her wig the was represented as wife of a god in this costume. The light-
sacred vulture head-dress, usually worn by queens. She is bronze colour of the women is depicted as yellow, the
dressed in two diaphanous garments (the new fashion for colour of the men’s skin is red.
noble ladies): the light tunic and the light mantle fastened 10. The god Osiris in human form. He is the god of a younger
on the chest. The old tunic has been discarded. Not until popular legend symbolizing the master of the earth who
the end of the 20th Dynasty is a short undergarment of gave the Egyptians laws and taught them agriculture.
thicker material worn again under tunic and mantle. Killed later on by Seth or Typhon, the god of darkness, he
. King with a blue wig, diadem with the sacred uraeus, arti- reigned as king of the dead in the nether world, while
ficial beard, collar, girdle decorations and two sceptres or Horus, the son of Osiris and Isis became the god of light
insignia: scourge and crook. and lord of the living. Osiris as a king wears a gold crown
. Princess. Around the wig an ornamental band; collar, similar to the one worn by Upper-Egyptian kings with
tunic, mantle, bare footed. (According to a wooden stat- feathers on its sides, a white royal beard, he carries the two
uette in the Louvre, Paris). regal sceptres: scourge and crook and wears a coloured
Centre Group mantle. The skin is represented as green in accordance with
6. King performing the sacrificial ritual and offering a golden the myth.
ointment box. The king, like all officiating priests, is Bottom Group
scantily clad, bare-footed and does not wear anything iy Woman playing the harp dressed in a long tunic with slits
besides the two crowns, the neck decoration, the wide for the arms; flower garlands on head and neck.
royal loin-cloth and girdle decoration.
12. Woman playing the tambourine, collar, embroidered
. Blind priest playing the harp. The head is shaven, without
a wig. Flowing mantle.
chastity belt, light mantle tied by a knot on the breast.
. The god Mént of Hermonthis, with a hawk’s head and 13. Slave girls with earthenware jug and leather bag, collar and
feather decoration, also with solar disk and sacred uraeus. chastity belt which (like the one of No. 12) holds up the
He carries the handle-cross, the so-called Nile-key which narrow leather strip between the legs.
was the symbol of life and the attribute of many gods. 14, Slave girl with a light cloth extending from the hips to the
(Hermonthis is the modern Erment near Thebes). The god knees, carrying so-called lotus flowers (Nelumbinum), Hair
Horus (light and sun-god) with the hawk’s head is often band and garland of flowers.
similarly represented, the hawk was his sacred emblem. 15. Hired female mourner from a funeral procession.

ANCIENT EGYPT. New Kingdom (Late Period)

- Rameses IT. (1324-1258 B.C.) on his war-chariot. The king war-helmet (cheperesh). Quivers, long daggers or straight
as an archer; the reins attached to the girdle; two uraeus narrow swords, are attached to his girdle and chariot.
serpents, the symbol of royal dignity, are floating over his (Relief according to Lepsius).
2. King Harmahib (1374-1350 B.C.) carried by soldiers on a 5 and 7. Banners and standards.
litter. By the side of the king walks the fan-bearer whose 6. Soldier with a large shield from the Middle Kingdom. The
office is only honorary. The real lower fan-bearers walk in New Kingdom adopted a different shape of shields (Cf. P1.2)
front and behind the soldiers. In front of the procession: Bottom Group
captives. The king holds the crook, which is a royal in- 8. Isis priestess dressed in Graeco-Roman style. (Marble stat-
signium like the scourge and the sickle-shaped sword. uette, Rome, Capitoline Museum).
(Relief according to Lepsius). 9. Isis priestess in Egyptian style with a mantle tied in a knot
3. Priests carrying in procession the sacred barge of Ammon over the right shoulder while the left lappet falls loosely over
Re. The barge which was kept in the holy of holies of the the arm (Bronze figure, formerly Berlin Altes Museum).
temple is adorned with the head of the animal sacred to the 10, Woman’s costume. Mantle as No. 9. (Basalt figure, Munich,
god. It has side rudders and a cabin is provided with fans Antiquarium).
and manned with bronze figurines. (Relief, according to 11 and 12. Saite Priests with a mantle with jagged edges (Saite
Lepsius.) Period, 7th and 6th centuries B.C.)
4. A quilted armoured shirt with embroidery. Illustration at 13. Egyptian clad in a mantle.
the tomb of Rameses III. (Rampsinit, about 1180) the last 14. Ptolemy Euergétes (247-221 B.C.) with crown and mantle,
efficient king of the declining New Kingdom. sceptre and handle-cross.

ASSYRIA AND NEIGHBOURING PEOPLES (12th-7th centuries B.C.)

The Kingdom of Assur on the upper Tigris about 1500; from 885 (Asurnazirpal) great power, in 729 united with Babylonia;
606 end of Assyria.

Top Group Centre Group

1. High dignitary in a long fringed tunic with short sleeves. 8. Warrior with metal helmet, double sword-belt with a metal
Tasselled sash, fillet, neck ornaments. Bracelets on the buckle as a protection where the bands are crossed. Sword,
upper arms and wrists. A sword worn by the aristocracy long spear, round shield, hose and boots.
even in peace time. The sheath mounted with metal. 9. Lightly armed archer, with sword and simple cap.
2. Assyrian king as officiating priest with a high cap and short 10. Heavily armed warrior with coat of mail made of small
tunic, the ceremonial garment of the priests. Priest’s sticks metal pieces.
with knobs or fan- or brush-shaped ends. His royal rank is 11. Ordinary woman with fringed skirt and mantle thrown
marked by the mantle thrown over one shoulder and the overt one shoulder.
tassels attached to the girdle. 12. Man in a short tunic and sash.
13. Captive with felt cap (member of a non-Assyrian tribe).
3. Simple official with boots and hose (from a later period).
Bottom Group
4. King with a cap decorated with gold braid, ends of which
14, Tribute-bearer from Northwest Mesopotamia.
hang down the back. Fringed garment and mantle thrown
15. Citizen from Nineveh (Capital of Assyria).
over one shoulder. Purple-violet colour. Bracelets on the
16. Prince from Muzri (modern Kurdistan).
upper arm and wrists. Ear-rings (as 1-3). In his right hand,
17. Tribute-bearers from Palestine in the reign of King Jehu.
the long royal official staff. (Asurnazirpal, 884-860 B.C.,
18 and 19. The Assyrian sacrificial mantle, front and back view.
according to a relief in the British Museum, London).
(18 King Asurnazirpal; 19 King Salmanassar III. 860-826 B.C.)
5 and 6. Canopy and fan-bearers of the king, beardless with According to originals and Layard: Discoveries in the Ruins
broad sashes. of Nineveh and Babylon, with use of O. Jones, Grammar of
7. Bow-bearers of the king with a fringed skirt (as 5 and 6). Ornament, for the colouring.

BABYLONIA AND ASSYRIA

(Babylonia, the country between the Euphrates and Tigris was divided into Southern Sumer and Northern Akkad; south of the
Euphrates was Chaldea)

Top Group
5. Noble Babylonian lady in a long-sleeved tunic and fringed
1. Old Babylonian priest-king (Gudea about 2250 B.C.) in a cape. Metal rings round the neck. Reconstructed by Max
wide woven mantle, led by a god wearing the traditional Tilke after an ivory figure in the Louvre, Paris.
skin mantle and horned cap. 6. Shows the head of a similar figure with cap and fillet tying
2. King Khammurabi (about 2000 B.C.) wearing a Sumerian up the hair at the nape of the neck.
mantle and lamb skin cap. Relief.
3. Idol of the Babylonian-Assyrian weather god Adad with Centre Group
metal disks hanging down from the girdle. 7. King Asurbanipal (668-626 B.C., called Sardanapalus by the
4. King Merodach-Baladan of Babylonia (722-710 B.C.) Greeks) on a couch in the garden of his harem. His head
dressed in a white tunic, held together by a girdle. At the is encircled by a diadem with long bands falling down on his
back the tunic is pleated and the edge is fringed. Pointed back and by a string of pearls. Richly decorated garment.
cap elongated into a kind of tube. Bracelets and ear-rings.
 aa

8. The queen on a high chair in a richly decorated tunic with tunic; lance, sword, round shield. The sword is usually
tight ornamented sleeves; the long fringed mantle over it. fixed in a horizontal position to the sword-belt. The helmet
Soft shoes. Star-shaped ear-rings, neck band, bracelets and has the small horse-hair curved metal decoration (which
a diadem in the shape of battlements. Feather fan on the was further developed on the Greek helmet).
small table. 15; Horseman with pointed helmet in a short tunic, the upper
9Q_ 12. Servant girls in long-sleeved tunics partly covered by part covered by a short ornamental garment (upper coat of
a mantle. All garments with fringed borders. Sandals tied mail). Fringed girdle, armoured hose, knee bands, laced
together with bands, probably worn over shoes made out boots, weapons: lance, sword, bow and arrows in the
of material. Turban-like head gear (fillets). Neck ornamen- quiver. The horse’s cover resembles an animal’s skin.
tations and ear-rings. They wave the fan against flies and Ornamental straps are wound round the neck over the
hold a plate with fruit and also a fringed cloth (possibly clipped mane. On the head part of the bridle an ornamental
a napkin, Fig. 12). Incense burners on the floor. hair-tuft. Snaffle (similar to the bridles of today in Western
Asia and Turkestan). The background shows how they
Bottom Group shot from behind large shields fixed into the ground.
13; Armoured archer, shooting with his left hand. According to original monuments in different museums and
14. Warrior with helmet, broad girdle over a short-sleeved Layard, Discoveries. Cf. also C. Bezold: Ninive und Babylon.

7 WESTERN ASIA IN ANTIQUITY Sumerians, Hittites, and West-Asiatics

(The non-semitic Sumerians about 3000 B.C. in Southern Babylonia; Hittites from the 2nd millennium rulers over Asia Minor as far as
Sytia; theit empite was destroyed about 715 B.C., with the conquest of Carchemish.)

. Seated figure with tablet on his knees, wearing a Sumerian sytian sacrificial.mantle, Plate 5 which is draped round
mantle (From Tello). the body in the same way). One should notice the clean-
. Head of a similar figure with astrakhan cap. shaven upper lip of figures 10 and 11. 10 and 11 form
. Head of a commander with helmet and skin mantle; from a rock-relief in Northern Syria.
the stele of Egyptian King Echnaton (Amenophis IV.) i Arabian watrior in a short tunic, with bow, atrow and
14th century B.C., Paris, Louvre. quiver. From an Assyrian representation.
. Woman in a shaggy lambskin mantle (arranged in flounces). 113). Hittite warrior with sickle-shaped sword.
Alabaster statuette from Ur in Chaldea (old cultural centre 14. Hittite prince in a wide mantle, the borders richly dec-
of the Sumerians). orated.
. Warrior from the ranks with axe, the bronze head fixed to 15; Deity with peculiar trailing garment (perhaps a mantle held
a wooden shaft. Time of the Egyptian King Echnaton in place round the hips by a girdle. Found at Jerabis.
(ef, 3). 16. Hittite woman from a procession, wearing a crown in the
. The oldest chariot represented in art. A leopard’s skin is form of battlements.
thrown over the seat. Drawn by four mules. The driver, 17. Hittite woman, in a large wrap which also covers the head,
unlike all other Sumerians, protects part of his head with sitting in front of a folding table and holding a metal
a wig and wears a beard against evil spirits. mirror. Pointed turned-up leather shoes.
. Hittite weather-god. Leather shoes with turned-up points 18. Hittite figure in a long mantle. From Boghaskoi, the former
as still worn in the Orient. Basalt relief, 2nd millennium B.C. Chatti (capital of the Hittites about 1800 B.C.).
. Hittite warrior. Leather shoes as No. 7. Basalt relief from 19. Head of the Armenian king Tigranes I. with an indented
Sendshirli. 2nd millennium B.C. crown with animal frieze over the fillet.
. Hittite chief with pointed cap and ear-rings. 20. Head of a Parthian King. Helmet over fillet.
. Cilician god. He wears a horned cap, and'in his hands grapes 21. Warrior of a sea-faring nation attacking Palestine.
and eats of corn. Leather shoes as in No. 7. Zoe Philistine warrior wearing cap with chin-strap and feather-
. Priest praying to a god or Cilician prince. (Cf. the As- like crest.

WESTERN ASIA IN ANTIQUITY Phoenicians, Hittites, Syrians (Canaanites)

The most powerful neighbouring people of the Egyptians in the north were the Hittites (Kheta, Chatti, cf. Plate 7; Kefti: Crete; Retenu:
Palestine); this plate also includes West-Asiatic tribes, nomad Bedouins or those in settlements as well as sea-faring nations.
Top Group
if Man from Kefti with fillet, multi-coloured loin-cloth with Pulasate can probably be identified with the Philistines of
tassels, bobs and socks woven in many colours to protect the the Bible. (Not Semites but probably coming from Aegean
ankles. Skin-sandals. countries).
. Hittite or Kheta. Fillet, long, simple garment (as still com- 5 Syrian of rank from the interior of the country.
mon in the Orient today), short shoulder cape. Clean-shaven.
. Man of a desert tribe east of Palestine. Decorated skin Centre Group
mantle fastened on one shoulder. Tattooing on the legs. 6. Bedouin (nomad hunter and breeder). Loin-cloth woven in
. Man of the Purasate, a hostile sea-faring people from the gay colours and leather sandals. Bow and arrows, wooden
time of Rameses III. — Feather head dress which does not hunting stick for throwing made of hard wood and bent
denote a chief but is worn by every one. The Purasate or in a special way (cf. the Australian Aborigine’s boomerang).

10
 - Bedouin woman in a mantle woven in many colours; 13. Street vendor wearing an outer wrap with fringes.
actually a cloth fastened on one shoulder. Fillet, shoes made 14, Priest with the vessel for the sacrificial blood (cf. 15).
of one piece of leather. The leather bottle was used for 15. High Priest. The priestly costume consisted of breeches or
keeping fat, ointment or rouge. a loin-cloth (second book of Moses 28, 42), a white linen
. Syrian or Canaanite. (According to an Egyptian represen- tunic with long sleeves, a long girdle wound several times
tation dating from the end of the 18th Dynasty. Perhaps a round the body; the head-dress consisted of a band wound
tich merchant). Yellow tunic with tight sleeves and trousers, round a large tube (or open cap). During the ritual he was
coveted by a richly embroidered outer garment draped so bare footed. In addition, the High Priest wore a sleeveless
that the blue and red stripes alternate. Short beard. mantle reaching down to the knees and over that the ephod
2. Man from a South Palestinian tribe. or shoulder garment made of two seperate back and front
10. Man belonging to a primitive South Palestinian tribe. The parts and fastened on the shoulders by means of onyx
body painted and tattooed in the fashion of primitive people. brooches and round the waist by a girdle made out of gold
Fair or dyed hair. and coloured threads. Four rows of three jewels were fixed
1h Man from Refenu (Palestine or Syria) with tassels and to the breastplate of the ephod as emblems of the twelve
coloured borders. tribes of Judah. Besides the fillet a golden plate was worn
1-11. Partly according to Egyptian representations in Manners by the High Priest with the inscription: Holy to Jehovah
and Customs of the Ancient Eg yptians by Wilkinson, London Yahweh).
1878. 16. Hebrew with prayer mantle and prayer strap, the longer
Bottom Group tassels of the mantle manifesting his great piety and obed-
12-17. Hebrews. ience to the law.
12. Hebrew in a short sleeved long fringed woollen tunic, an Ws Ordinary man in a fringed tunic with sash and high boots
oblong piece of material worn over it and decorated with (According to reliefs on the black Obelisk of Salmanassar in
tassels at the lower corners (according to Mosaic law). He the British Museum, 9th Century B.C.). 1 and 2 according
wears a pointed cap of bands wound round the head. to the same reliefs.

MYCENAE, CRETE, CYPRUS (Aegean and Phoenician Cultures 2000-500 B.C.)

1-11. Mycenae. a sort of coat of mail round the hips or a loin-cloth corres-
1. Fragment with representation of warriors and woman. ponding exactly to the women’s, who, however, wear in
National Museum, Athens. addition the flounced skirt and the bodice which leaves the
2. Warriors with large leather shields. From a Mycenaen breasts exposed.
sword blade. 19-23. Cyprus.
3-7. Ornamental objects made of gold plate, frequently used 19 and 20. Cyprian warrior, terra-cotta statuette.
as decoration on garments. 21. Cyprian prince with double loin-cloth and ornamental
8-11. Female figures from gold and copper signet rings, collar, cyprian hat (Egyptian style).
Mycenae. 22. Man’s head (Cyprus).
12-18. Crete. 23. Woman’s head with ear-rings, diadem covered by a veil.
12. Bronze statuette of a woman wearing flounced skirt. (Terra-cotta in Creek style).
13-16. Snake goddess with bodice and frills. Flounced skirt. 24. Man’s head with a Cyprian straw hat or cap as still worn
17. Statuette similar to No. 12. today.
18. Women carrying pails of water, a harpist behind. Painting 25. Cypriot wearing a sort of himation (cf. Greece) with orna-
on a satcophagus from Crete. The Crete male figures (bull- mental border. (Early Greek period). According to Bos-
fighters, equilibrists, etc.) are mostly represented as naked, sert, Altkreta. Berlin, 1937, also F. Winter, Kretisch-myke-
pale or reddish as, for instance, the harpist, but they wear nische Kunst, 1913.

PERSIA IN ANTIQUITY AND THE EARLY MIDDLE AGES

Top Group 4. Companion of the king with fillet and carrying spear and
1-15. Ancient Persia 6th—5th centuries B.C. bow.
1. King Darius in a long trailing Median outer garment, the 5 and 6. Bodyguard. The bodyguard consisted of a whole
superfluous length of which is pulled up at the left side and atmy mostly dressed in Median garments. Arms: spear,
allowed to fall down in rich folds. Wide sleeves. Stick as bow, oval shield with semi-circle cut out at the sides.
carried by the Assyrian kings (cf. Plate 5) and a bunch of Ordinary warriors carried round shields.
flowers in his hand. Long beard which was a royal privilege
all other men wearing a short round beard. Regal cap richly Centre Group
decorated and serrated at the edge which is worn by the 7-9. Warriors in ancient Persian knee-length tunics with
body guard in similar form. All ancient Persian caps are girdle and long trousers. Leather cap and shoes fastened on
worn so as to show part of the hair over the forehead. the instep with bands. Short broad sword (or dagger)
2 and 3. Fan and canopy-bearers according to ancient Assyrian hanging from the belt. Figure 7 carries the peculiar Persian
court custom. case for the short bow and arrows.

11
 on

10. Distinguished Persian in a long Median outer garment with B.C.). Another source is the Mosaic at Naples, an imitation
wide sleeves and pleated cap. Beard and medium long of a much older picture.
cutls. Laced leather shoes. 13 and 14. Men’s heads from Xerxes’ reign (485-465 B. C.).
11. Persian in travelling costume with mantle open in front. 15. Woman’s head from the same period, with a veiled mouth
12. Court servant in a long outer garment with fan for flies and as is still customary with Armenian women.
combined cape and hood consisting of a large piece of 16-25. Persian at the time Khoshu II. (591-628 A.D.).
cloth wrapped round the neck and head. 16. Servant girl in a long tunic.
1-12. Mostly from representations found in the ruins of 17-19. The ruler with servants and pages.
Pasargadae and Persepolis, the palaces built by Cyrus (died 20-25. Persian Ambassador according to cave paintings from
529 B.C.), Darius (died 485 B.C.) and Xerxes (died 465 Ajanta (formerly Berlin, Museum ftir Vélkerkunde).

SCYTHIANS AND INHABITANTS OF ASIA MINOR (£arly Greek Culture)

The Scythians (Saks) often mentioned by Herodotus were a mounted stock breeding people north of the lower Danube and in modern
southern Russia, who invaded Asia Minor in the 7th century.
Presumably they are a European tribe of the Iranians and related to the Persians, thus being Indo-Europeans.

Top Group
1-6. Scythians according to representations in tombs. Lenin- ptesented as a youthful shepherd and was the favourite of
grad, Ermitage. the goddess Cybele.
1. Archer in a leather tunic with long embroidered leather 8. A similar figure froma West Asiatic relief of hellenistic times.
trousers, decorated with small metal plates, called Scythian 9. Girl in a Phrygian patterned costume as seen on Greek vase
leather trousers, and soft medium-high leather boots. Band paintings, wearing the so-called Phrygian cap.
round the long hair. 10. The Trojan Paris ina Phrygian costume with long hose and
2. Warrior with a conical cap tied under the chin. Trousers hood-like head-dress (Phrygian cap).
like No. 1. 11. Amazon from a Greek vase painting. It shows her wearing
3-6. Archers with large pocket-like quivers. Cap like 2, the Phrygian cap, hose and high laced boots. She carries
trousers like 1. Also two warriors in similar costume. a battle-axe, a small shield (and also often a bow).

Bottom Group
Centre Group
12-21. Costume and arms of Asia Minor.
7-11. Phrygians, i. e. a people related to the Armenians, thus 12. Medea wearing a gaily coloured Phrygian costume, her
they were Indo-Europeans living in Asia Minor. Agri- home being in Colchis in Asia Minor. According to a vase
cultural people of a certain cultural standard, they lived painting of the later classical Greek period.
partly in towns and cultivated handicrafts, (especially 13. One of the body guard of the Persian king in Phrygian
carpet weaving and embroidery). costume. According to the Greek vase, called Darius vase;
7. Phrygian shepherd. (A representation of the mythological Naples Museum.
Attis or Atys, the Phrygian Adonis, who was usually re- 14-21. Arms from Asia Minor according to Greek vase paintings.

GREECE. Larly Period (6th and sth centuries B.C.)

Top Group (According to black vase paintings) 5, Youth only wearing a short mantle called chlaina (without
1, 2, 4, 6. Women and girls in the archaic stiff Doric chiton chiton).
(tunic) which reached down to the feet and was decorated
Centre Group (according to later vase painting. 6th—5 th centuries.)
with bands of ornaments and patterns. A girdle was worn
round the waist. Chest and shoulders are covered by a short 7-9. Women and girls dressed in garments made of thinner
jacket or kerchief which, however, is often produced and ar- material (linen or crépe, byssus or cotton) and arranged in
ranged by way of pulling the superfluous length of the chiton fine narrow pleats, many bulges and folds, falling down on
up through the girdle and allowing it to fall down over the the upper or lower part of the body. The pleats were pro-
upper part of the body. It was usually fastened with safety- duced by stitches on the upper seam or by pressing and
pins and brooches on the shoulders. ironing. The garment, originally sewn and meant to be
This upper part of the garment, when dresses became softer pulled over the head like a tunic, is later wrapped and
and fuller (linen instead of wool), gradually develops in a draped round the body (cf. bottom group). A himation is
way to fall down in a baggy fold which is the beginning of worn over head and shoulders.
the later forms of garments. In addition the himation, a 10-11. Youth wearing a short linen chiton fastened on the
loosely wrapped cloak, is worn and is sometimes drawn shoulders and held together by a girdle.
over the head by women. 11. With the short mantle (ch/aina) and the petasos worn on
3. Man in a dignified long chiton with flower patterns and a journeys (or a travelling hat).
himation. The borders of both garments are ornamented. 12, Man wearing a long chiton with many folds and a draped
Beard and long hair. mantle (bimation ) having little lead weights at the ends.
Bottom Group 16. Girl (before dressing) wrapping a band or girdle round her
13 and 14. Women assisting at a burial and death ritual. * breast.
15. Woman putting on the Doric woollen chiton (cf. upper 17. Girl in a short-sleeved linen chiton draping the mantle,
group) with part of it falling down from the shoulders. Chlamis and fastening it with brooches or safety-pins on
the shoulder.

GREECE. Great Period of Greek Art. (sth and 4th centuries B.C.) 1S
Top Group 6. Apollo Citharoedus and conductor of the Muses in a long
1-4. Examples showing different ways of draping the outer woman’s peplos. Roman marble copy after a Greek original
garment (himation )without the chiton. of the 5th century B.C.
1. According to a tomb stele from Orchomenos. 7. Pallas Athene in a woman’s peplos with an outer wrapper,
2. According to a statue. the Aegis, the mythological goat skin with the Gorgon’s
3. Roman marble copy after a Greek bronze statue of Demos- head (so-called Athena Lemnia. Bronze statue by Pheidias).
thenes, about 280 B.C. 8. Delphic charioteer in a long chiton with a girdle (Bronze
4. After a statue of Sophocles about 340 B.C. statue in Delphi, about 470 B.C.).

Bottom Group
Centre Group
9, Amazon by Polycletus in a short chiton with girdle (Bronze
5. Short chiton, pulled over the left shoulder, in order to statue from Delphi about 470 B.C.).
leave the right arm free. Craftsmen’s costume. The left 10 and 11. Attic tomb relief: woman and servant.
shoulder and arm are covered by a small wrapper. (Statue 12. Resting pugilist wearing a chlamis similar to the Abyssinian
of Hephaestus, god of fire and the smiths. mantle shama.

GREECE. Armour, Banquets, Games and Music 14

ey. Chariot which replaced the cavalry in Homet’s description 10. Banquet, the man lying, the girl sitting.
according to a later representation. Coat of mail with metal Tf; Member of a banquet wearing a garland and holding goblet
shoulder plates. Helmet with cheek-guards which can be and drinking horn.
turned up. i225 Cup (Kantharos) with large rounded handles used for
The sword is strapped very high to the belt. official ceremonies.
Tomb stele of Aristion (end of 6th century). A star on the ES Bowl without handle (phiale) which was filled from a jug.
shoulder plates; a lion’s head on the breast plate. The coat 14. Tumbler (rhyton) in the shape of a bull’s head, through the
of mail is decorated all round with three ornamental metal nostrils of which the wine flowed into the mouth.
bands. The short chiton can be seen on the upper arm and
. Bowl with handle and stem.
the thighs.
. Jug with handle.
Achilles bandaging the wounded Patroclus who is sitting on
his shield with his helmet taken offso that the felt hair cap can . Greek woman carrying honey in the comb with the left
be seen. Coat of mail with movable shoulder plates and hand and a kantharos in her right hand.
studded leather or linen elongations hanging down from . Female tumbler in a loin-cloth moving on her hands be-
the coat of mail for protection of the lower part of the body. tween pointed swords.
Under the coat of mail the short chiton. The cheek-guards . Male figure from the retenue of Dionysus (Bacchus).
on Achilles’ helmet are turned up. The armour is that of the . Wandering minstrel with flute and lyre.
time of the Persian Wars. . Man blowing the flute and wearing a fillet to which the
. Heavily armed soldier. flute can be attached. He wears the peculiar ceremonial
. Heavily armed soldier with greaves connected by springs. garment: the long chiton with a sleeveless jacket. So-called
Oval shield cut out at the sides. aulet (derived from alos: flute with mouth-piece, usually
Warrior with spear. Large crest on his helmet, turned up applied to a twin flute).
cheek-guards, decorated greaves. The coat of mail pro- ss Pipes (syrinx) the simple natural instrument of Greek
tecting the ships consists of several layers. shepherds, each pipe of different length.
Helmet with fixed cheek-guards and two crests placed os Woman playing the psalterion. (This was the old lyre with
across the helmet. strings.)
. Helmet of the late archaic epoch before the great period
24. Lyre (psalterion) with a roundish sounding-box.
of art.
Banquet (Symposion). The members wearing garlands on aos Woman with a string-instrument (in the shape of a kithara,
which was being plucked by the p/e&sron.
their heads, the one on the right with a cup (skyphos) the
one on the left holds out the goblet to the young slave with 26. Woman tuning her lyre.
a jug. The ornamental border of this painted vase shows Pall Harp (¢rigonon, called thus from its three-cornered shape).
cooling vessels, jug, goblet and shoes. The sounding-board faces the harpist.

13
 -

15 LATE GREEK TOWN COSTUME

of the Hellenistic period on painted Terra-cottas of the 4th Century B.C. (mostly from Tanagra, Boeotia)

1. Female dancer in a flounced skirt. 8. Two girls putting their arms round each other and wearing
2. Boy wearing a petasos (wide, soft sun-hat). the so-called sleeveless Doric chitons and over it a short
3. Boy wearing chiton and chlamis, as well as pefasos. mantle (himation), the right one being blue, the left red.
4, Girl in a full-pleated chiton and mantle (himation) and well The girl on the left has her hair combed up carefully, the
dressed hair (front view). one on the right has thick plaits laid round the head. From
5. Girl wearing a mantle and pointed sun-hat (so-called Corinth.
Thessalian hat), white and red border. 9. Young woman with Eros, wearing chiton and hima-
6. cf. 4 (side view). tion.
7. Girl (Artemis with her hunting dog) wearing a costume
1-6. According to original statuettes from the Munich Col-
suitable for sport and similar to that of the Amazons:
lection of Antiques.
Chiton and pink chlamis. The doe skin of the hunter
(nebris) over it is fastened by means of a blue girdle. High 7 and 8. According to A. Furtwangler, Sabouroff collection,
hunting-boots fastened by bands cross-laced. From Tan- vol. 2 (Berlin 1883-87).
agra, 4th century B.C. 9, From a photo in the Loeb collection, Munich.

16 ETRUSCANS. About 750 B.C.

1,5, 11 and 18. Woman in a long close-fitting dress. (1, back 13. Bronze votive statuette, for protection and healing.
view, 5, front view). 14 and 15. Heads from Etruscan mural paintings from the
2. Woman’s shoes made of one piece with holes for laces. tomb-grottoes near Corneto.
3 and 12. Woman with a conical head-dress and with a spiral 17. Terra-cotta sarcophagus (from Caere, now Cervetri) a
garment decorated with flowers and the ends of which are leather wine bottle is placed near the couple on the couch.
pulled over the shoulders from the back and allowed to fall 19-24. Home-coming warriors, Samnites, enemies of Rome,
down over the chest. who, in the 5th century B.C. pushed part of the Etruscans
12. back view. out of Southern Italy (Mural painting from a tomb in Ruvo
4 and 7. Golden ear-rings. ’ di Puglia, now in the Museum at Naples). ;
6 and 9. Man before arranging his garment and after having 25-35. The two lower tows: Etruscan banquet: a memorial
draped it round the body (9: is a free drawing in order to feast for the dead. The participants lie next to the table, and
illustrate the way the garment is worn). in addition there are the usual servants, flautists, jugglers
8 and 16, Ear plates with gold pendants. and dancers, both male and female (Mural painting from
10. Head of a female statuette with hood and neck bands. an Etruscan tomb, now in the Vatican Museum, Rome).

17 ROME. Men’s Costume

. Toga draped over the tunica in the old simple way. Accord- 7. Dignitary in the stance of an orator in the toga praetexta
ing to a so-called statua togata, statue representing an which had a purple border to indicate high office.
Etruscan in peace time attire. . Emperor wearing the long military mantle (paludamentum ).
Priest (Pontifex) performing a sacrifice. His toga drawn
. Lictor, i. e. attendant or honorary guard who were attached
over his head. .
to the high officials in different numbers. In his hand the
. Dealer of sacrificial animals or sacrificial attendant (victi-
fasces (bundle of rods).
marius).
. Inhabitant of Gabii in Latium wearing his toga in a special 10. Emperor wearing the long trailing purple toga, originally
way: the end of the toga is drawn tightly round the waist worn by the censors. (Since the Emperor Domitian it
thus forming a girdle (cinctus Gabinus). Left: coin showing became the customary imperial garment.)
Julius Caesar’s head with a laurel garland. Right: coin of 11. Emperor with the purple mantle embroidered with gold
Aurelian with the emperor’s crown as worn at the time. threads over the toga fastened by a girdle.
. Julius Caesar addressing his soldiers. The paludamentum, the
12. Emperor performing a sacrifice wearing tunica and paenula
general’s mantle only worn in war-time over the armour,
(mantle) thrown back over both shoulders (cf. Plate 19,
covets the coat of mail with its bronze decorations. It was fig. 5).
longer than.the simple war mantle, the sagum and was fast-
13, Youth wearing paenula.
ened on the right shoulder with a brooch (according to a
statue in Naples). 14. Cape with hood (cucullus ).
. Julius Caesar wearing the foga pura or virilis, the simple 15, Sun-hat with a narrow point similar to the woman’s hat on
white toga as worn by men from their seventeenth year the statuette from Tanagra (Pompeiian representation) cf.
(according to a statue in the Alte Museum, Berlin). plate 15: Hellenistic costume.

14
 ROME. Ordinary People, Priestesses, Women 18
Top Group =
1. Auriga (charioteer in the arena in a coloured tunica, carry- garment is a long tight-sleeved ‘unica interior or also called
ing victor’s palm. subucula.
2s Man in the long sleeveless, full zwnica talaris (ankle length). . Tunica recta made of one piece of material and reaching
By Peasant wearing a tunic made of sheepskin with high boots down to the feet. Long veil and a crown on her head.
and broad-brimmed hat. . The wife of Drusus.
. Fisherman wearing the exomis (a short tunic exposing the . Women wearing the tunica with a girdle (tunica muliebris )
right breast). the customary garment for women.
. Representation of the paenula (cloak with hood), back view. . Veiled vestals with mantle drawn over the head, over long
Pattern of the north African burnous (cf. Plate 187-88, tunica.
Algeria and Tunis as well as text: African peoples). . A middle-aged vestal (priestess of Vesta).
Centre Group
. The empress Agrippina the Elder (wife of Germanicus and
the mother of Caligula, who died 33 A. D.), wearing pleated
6. Slave wearing a tunica with a girdle and sandals with straps
tunica with half-long sleeves and a mantle thrown over.
wound round the ankle and calf.
Wig with plaits hanging down at the sides.
7. Sacrificial attendant (Camillus) wearing a tunica with a
girdle. Long hair adorned with a garland. Bottom Group
8. Woman wearing a mantle thrown back over one shoulder 15-19. Roman women in different stances wearing the pala,
and showing a short tunica with a girdle. The under- a sort of himation or mantle draped in various ways.

GREECE AND ROME. Hair Styles and head-dresses 19

1. Greece 2. Rome
The man belonging to early Greek culture wears locks and Already at the time of Ovid (in the reign of the emperor Au-
plaits skilfully arranged in various ways often intertwined with gustus), the hair styles of Roman women must have been ex-
the fillet or hair band (1-7). Only from the 5th century is men’s tremely varied, as ladies of rank kept several slave girls for the
hair shorn or cropped and arranged in a simpler way (Fig. 8). purpose of dressing their hair. Those who were not in a pos-
Women in early times have their hair dressed in a very elaborate ition to do so had to resort to simpler styles or kerchiefs.
way with locks and plaits (11-14), obviously produced by Women with simpler styles wore a parting and gathered their hair
curling-irons or by means of false locks. Probably these elabor- in a knot similar to the Greek fashion. But it was the women of
ate and painfully created styles were not worn every day, as rank and the elderly women who prefered the more elaborate
some representations — also from the 9th century — show much styles. Fig. 28 has a parting and her hair is laid round the head
simpler styles. Bands and kerchiefs were amply applied (Figs. in a complicated way, interlaced with a ribbon and ending on
15-19). the head (nodus). Besides ribbons they wore hair-nets, fillets
Men’s head-dress was the plain cap and the soft more elongated and diadems or simple metal bands. Fig. 26 (Bust in the Capi-
woollen cap with the edge turned up. The well-known Phry- toline Museum, Rome) wears her hair set in waves according
gian cap is only a special form of this kind, which by the way to Greek fashion. Figs. 27, 23 and its back view 25 show the
is still worn today by Italian or Portuguese fishermen in red or way plaits were fastened on the head. There were numerous
black colours. The stiffer hat with a turned-up brim has pro- variations in which little round curls were arranged in tight
bably developed from the soft cap. The pointed hat with a rolls on the heads of noble Roman women, of which figs. 20,
narrow brim (pilos, fig. 10) and the one with the wide brim 22, 23 are examples; fig. 20 has, in addition, two long locks
called petasos, the Greek travelling hat, represent the main hanging down at the sides. Elaborate and majestic (resembling
types of hats. The pefasos could be hung over the back by its battlements) is the empress Messalina’s hairstyle (fig. 21) accord-
bands (fig. 8). ing to a bust in the Capitoline Museum, Rome.

FOOTWEAR in ANCIENT TIMES 20

At first the shoe served only as a protection with the Greeks; The simplest form is the karbatine (fig. 16) worn by both
people went bare-foot at home; it was only in the streets that Greeks and Romans which consisted of a piece of cow’s hide
shoes were worn. The Romans as a rule travelled and marched turned up around the foot and fastened by straps. It is in fact
more frequently than the Greeks, also entered colder countries the old strapped shoe as also worn by the Teutons and up to
more often and therefore gave mote attention to footwear. the 16th century by German peasants and even today by Ru-
The Greek woman, mostly confined to the house, is seldom manians, Slovaks, and other peoples. The main part of all
represented with shoes. She prefers soles fastened with straps, footwear remains the sole (fig. 5), the solid support of the foot
or sandals. Later on, as shown by the Tanagra statuettes, dating as a protection against the cold, dampness and rough ground;
from the 4th century B.C., more elegant shoes were worn by then the straps for fastening were added, later the toe-caps and
women, for instance red ones with yellow edged soles. There finally the upper part of the shoes, which according to need or
were no special types of shoes. There were many forms varying taste have slits or are decorated (figs. 9, 10, 12). Figs. 9, 10,
from the simple sandals to the high laced boots partly with rich 12-16, also 1-3 show Greek styles. These represent the kind
decorations and slits as can be seen on Greek representations. called Rrepis or Arepide. In fig. 17 the foot under the strap is

ue
 bandaged with linen bands. Figs. 13-15 and 19 resemble more by a Roman, fig. 20 is a Roman example from the time of the
out shoe and boot, but are not of a more recent Greek origin. Imperium. Figs. 24, 26 and 27, 29, 32, 34 are Coptic footwear
Fig. 22 is a type between the two, as the toes are exposed again. (slippers, sandals of all types); fig. 28 represents a Coptic straw
The simplest Roman footwear were the soleae (fig. 5). Figs 7 sandal, 26 is a Coptic laced shoe. Fig. 25 is a late Roman slipper
and 8 show the Roman ca/ceus. 'The colour of fig. 4 is red as a from the time of the Emperor Justinian, 30 is a Roman boot
sign of distinction for the high officials of the Republic (similar to fig. 20, fig. 31 is a Roman spur).
(mulleus). The calceus when worn by the soldiers is called caliga
(figs. 11 and 23) and is represented here as a heavy hobnailed The Coptic shoes are represented according to Axtike und frih-
sandal. Fig. 6 has been drawn after an original from a museum mittelalterliche Fufsbekleidung aus Achmim-Panopolis by Frau-
in the Rhine Province. Fig. 21 is again the Greek Rrepide, worn berger. Diisseldorf, 1896.

A TEUTONS. Prehistoric and Early Historic Periods

1—5. Teutons in Jutland and Schleswig-Holstein. Bronze Age 8. Girl dressed in a long sleeveless tunic with a girdle and a
about 2000 B.C. broad richly decorated sash-like band passed over one
1. From the finds at Borum Eshéi (Jutland). shoulder. According to a find near Hamburg.
2. Girls garments from the finds at Egtved. Linen tunic and 9, Teuton with short tunic and breeches similar to 6. In add-
outer garment reaching below the hips, a cord gathering ition hose (or high gaiters). Find at Oberaltendorf.
this short tunic at the waist. 10. Man dressed in a long sleeved tunic, putties, mantle
3. Man’s costume from the finds at Trinohi. Oval shaped fastened on the right shoulder and collar hood. Find at
woollen mantle. A short tunic-like garment is wrapped Bermethsfeld near Hanover.
round the body, the ends of which are knotted at the back. 11-15. Eastern Teutons of the Roman period.
4 and 5. Women’s and men’s costume according to the recon- 11. Cymbric warrior (according to a find at Gundestrup, near
structions in the Copenhagen Museum. No description can Cassel).
be given of the linen undergarment which was probably 12. East Germanic warrior (according to finds reconstructed in
worn (like fig. 2 where the linen tunic has been added) as Silesia).
all the linen has perished in the wooden coffins. The outer 13. Fettered warrior belonging to the tribe of the Bastarnae
garments were mostly made of brown shorn wool. (now settled in Rumania) wearing very long pleated hose as
6-10. Teutons in Northern Germany. still worn in Rumania.
6. Frisian youth after the find by Max Etzel. Sleeveless short 14. Captive of the Daci tribe (province of Dacia) in the retinue
tunic, short breeches. Laced shoes. of a prince. (Figs. 13 and 14 according to the Tropaeum-.
7. Man of the Marcomanni tribe in a short tunic with sleeves victory memorial monument — at Adamkliss (Dobrudja).
gathered at the waist by a girdle and wearing mantle 15. Man belonging to the tribe of the Bastarnae (cf. fig. 13). He
fastened on the right shoulder and long hose. Under his wears, like fig. 13, a tunica with girdle and over it the nar-
coat he carries a sack on his left shoulder. row paenula (cf. Roman costume) and the Roman hair style.

IH TEUTONS. Roman Period, partly older

1. Figure of the Germania. The legs covered like those of 9. Teuton wearing mantle or cape-like sleeveless garment
warriors. The lozenge-shaped pattern has also been found made of wool or fur and with a hole for the neck. Roman
on materials on the bodies found in the moors. Relief from triumphal relief in the Vatican Museum, Rome.
the stone rampart of the practorivm in the legions’ camp at 10. Germanic woman (so-called Thusnelda) dressed in a
Mayence. Time of the emperor Vespasian (died 79 A. D.). Graeco-Roman garment with the left breast exposed as
2. A man of the Suevi tribe, half naked, (with breeches), over- described by Tacitus in the Germania. Roman marble statue,
thrown by a Roman horseman. Tombstone of a Roman now in Florence, Loggia dei Lanzi.
horseman. 11. Woollen tunic of a Germanic body discovered in the moors,
3. Kneeling, imploring Germanic youth covered with hose from Thorsbjerg (Jutland). The sleeves are sewn on and
which have fallen down in front from the girdle; hair show lozenge pattern.
gathered in a tuft at the back of the head, mantle and shoes. 12. Woollen trousers found in the same moors. The foot part
(Roman bronze figure. Paris. Bibliothéque Nationale.) of one leg is sewn on.
4 and 5. House urns. 13-15. Bronze helmets and bronze cap found in Germany but
6. Daci wearing long hose tied at the ankles, tunic with girdle, of uncertain origin.
mantle, oval shields. From Trajan’s column erected 113 A.D. 16. Shoe found in the moors. It is in one piece, and is fur-lined.
7. Man with a sling. Man of the tribe of the Marcomanni. It is the shape of the ancient laced shoe worn by German
Relief from the column of Marcus Aurelius, Rome (after peasants until the late 16th century.
173 A.D.). Similar to fig. 6. 17 and 18. Shoes found in Swabia, flattened out.
8. Warrior with sword, with the upper part of the body ex- 19. High woollen cap, found in the moors, Jutland. Copen-
posed and wearing shaggy woollen trousers. Statuette on hagen Museum.
an ivory box from Frankish-Merovingian Gaul (about 20. Frankish axe.
6th-7th century). 21. Short sword, dagger.
22. Axe with shaft, natural shape. According to a find near 28 and 29. Men belonging to the tribe of the Bastarnae from
Reichenhall. - the Tropaeum Trajani at Adamkliss (Rumania). Cf. plate 22.
23. Head of one axe with loop and socket.
30 and 31, Teuton’s heads according to Rhenish finds.
24. Axe; old emblem of dignity and office. Instead of a blade,
a hammer is often attached. Find from Schleswig. 32 and 33, Marcomanni from the Column of Marcus Aurelius.
25. Blade of an axe from near Osnabriick. 1-25 according to (Max Tilke says of the woman’s costume that Indian
photographs in Deutsche Geschichte by Heyck. Vol. I. women of Arizona still wear a similar primitive garment).
26 and 27. East Teuton with tuft of hair gathered on one side 26-33 according to Tracht der Germanen by J. Gitke (Leip-
of the head (seen from the two angles). zig 1922),

PERSIA. Sassanian Period in the Early Middle Ages (227-636 A.D.). pi

1. Head of a deity. the ring of sovereignty. Rock relief near Naksch-i-Rustam.
2. King Narsahe (Narses) 293-302 A.D. 12 and 13. Statue of King Sapor from a grotto near Shapur.
3. Companion of the king. According to Texier.
4. Official, according to a seal in the British Museum. 14-17. Parthians wearing different helmets and fillets.
5. King on horseback wearing a garmentand very widetrousers. 18-24, Parthian according to Iranian rock reliefs. The relief
6, 7 and 10. Parthians dressed in tunics and long, close fitting representations according to Iranische Felsreliefs by Satre-
trousers (5) or wide trousers (10), according to Sassanian Herzfeld, 1910.
reliefs. 25. Long-sleeved original garment of a Parthian, wool dyed
5-7 and 10. according to Kostiimkunde by Weiss. green. Discovered by Max Tilke in the former Berlin Mus-
8. King or prince hunting. (From a silver vessel in the Paris eum fiir Volkerkunde (about 600 A.D.).
Collection of Coins). 26. Sassanian horseman.
9. King Ardeshir. 27. King with halo over the crown placed on a head with long
11. The god Ahura-Mazda, Ormuzd (right) gives King Ardeshir curls.

GAULS, VIKINGS AND NORSEMEN

Top Group
1-10. Gauls. Bottom Group
1 and 2. Gallic warrior (1) with leather cuirass over the short 11-14. Vikings.
tunic. 11. Viking wearing skin trousers.
3. Gallic woman wearing a long blouse without a girdle. 12. Viking (Norseman) with bronze helmet wearing a gaily
bordered tunic. (11 and 12) according to bronze plates from
Centre Group Oland.
4 and 5. Gallic peasants with hooded collars (cucullus ). 13 and 14. Scandinavian Norsemen from the 7th to 10th cen-
6-8. Warriors, the middle one with a bronze trumpet similar turies wearing iron or bronze helmets of different shapes.
to an alpine horn, (6) wearing a sagum. (14) wearing bronze helmet with movable front piece, a
9. Chief with insignia. coat of mail and carrying a wooden shield mounted with
10. Warrior. Reconstructed from preserved pieces of weapons bronze. Copenhagen Museum.
and ornaments by French experts (perhaps not quite cor- 15. Norseman (warrior) with jagged leather coat (from Britain,
rectly). The! special Gallic breeches (bracca, braca = Celtic 9th century A.D.). (11-14) partly according to A. von
word, in German Bruch) reach only down to the knees. Jenny: Germanische Frihkunst, 1937.

ROME. Equipment of Army and Gladiators. 25

Top Group
1. Soldier of the Roman legions with leather cuirass, leather armour (/ocica squamata). Sword and dagger. In camp the
breeches, studded girdle, rectangular shield (scutum), sword eagle was stuck into the ground.
attached to the sword-belt (balteus), javelin (pilum) and
metal helmet (cussis) with a crest (crista).
. Soldier of the Roman legions (similar to those represented Centre Group
on Trajan’s Column). The leather cuirass mounted with 5. Captain (centurio) of a century or half a maniple with scale-
iron bands (lorica segmentata). armour, over it decorations of merit (silver phalerne), de-
. Ensign (standard-bearer) (signifer, vexillarius) vexillum- corated greaves (ocreae), doubled wrap or mantle and vine-
bearer, wearing lion’s or bear’s skin, coat of mail, leather wood stick, the mark of a centurion. Next to 5: helmet with
cuirass with sword, dagger and round shield (c/ipeus) made crest placed cross-ways (cf. 1), sword in its scabbard.
of mounted leather and with a handle on the inner side. High officer (Trajan’s Column) mantle made of fine purple
. Standard-bearer with the insignia of the legion (4200-6000 woollen material. Crest like a caterpillar, round metal
men: 10 cohorts, each consisting of 3 maniples). With scale shield (in early Greek style).

17
 an

if Horseman with leather cuirass and oval leather shield with 10. Net-fighter (retiarius) who tried to throw his net over his
six corners and elaborately mounted; horseman’s spear and opponent, for instance the heavily armed gladiator with
long sword (spatha), used by horsemen from 100 A.D. on- sword (gladius) and tried to pierce him with long trident.
wards. He is only slightly protected by his bandaged left cuirass
. Soldier of a Germanic auxiliary tribe (auxiliaris) with loin- sleeve which is widened on top into a metal shoulder plate.
cloth, girdle, the outer garment (paenula) is fastened up Otherwise only girdle with loin-cloth, greaves with bands
and has a hood. He carries an oval shield, sword, dagger wound round them.
and two javelins (According to a tombstone in Mayence). ats Gladiator (myrmillo), armed in the Gallic way with vizor
1, 3-5, 7 according to Lindenschmit: Tracht und Bewaffnung helmet, shield, belt, leg protection and sword.
des rimischen Hleeres, 1882, — 2 and 6 after photographs of 12. Fencer in Thracian armour (¢hrax) with the same protect-
Trajan’s Column. ive armour as the myrmillo (11), but two greaves and the
short Thracian dagger (séca).
Bottom Group 13% Fencing-master (lanista) at the gladiatorial games, with
9, Horn-blower with the cornu, a large, round metal horn, official’s rod and wide tunic decorated with two stripes; he
dressed in the tunica with wide border in the middle. is raising his hand to stop the game. Half-open sandals.

EARLY CHRISTIAN PERIOD. 300-600 A.D.

Christianization of the Roman Empire in the 4th century did 5. Youth wearing a tunica (shirt-like garment) with round
not change costume decisively. The early Middle Ages devel- stripes. Sandals with straps.
oped the traditional forms and added some features different Centre Group
from those of the Antique. The classic folds had partly to give
way to the preference for ornament and gay colours. From the 6. Shepherd with girdled tunica, bands wound round the legs
Romans came the name ¢/avus (stripe) for the striped ornament and protective collar.
on garments which originally were reserved for Romans of Te Apostle according to the conception of the Early Middle
rank. This clavus ran down from the shoulders to the seam of Ages wearing a dignified large toga-like mantle.
co. Elderly woman (really a picture of the Virgin) with fringed
the garment. There was also the round clavus. All these stripes
wete either sewn or embroidered on, or woven or inserted into mantle.
the material. Christian initials were also used as inserted decor- . Young woman wearing tunica and dalmatica as well as head
ations, i, e. the Greek X and P, which mean Ch and R (Christ’s and praying with uplifted arms.
initials) or the anchor cross, i. e. X and P to which were added 10; The good shepherd with the ancient reed-pipe or Pan flute
A and Q (alpha and omega), beginning and end, furthermore (like 6). (1-10) according to catacomb paintings and
the cross ¢ with X and P and the old T-cross (Anthony’s cross) mosaics of Early Christian times. Cf. R. Forrer, Reallexikon
in addition with A and 2 (A and O). der prahistorischen fribchristlichen Altertiémer (1907).

Top Group Bottom Group

1. Lady wearing a dalmatica as an outer garment first worn in 11. Richly decorated sleeved tunica partly covered by the so-
the East Roman Empire. This became the official costume called hoodless p/wiale, both woven of fine wool.
of deacons. Wide head band the ends of which fall over the 12 and 13. Late forms of the antique toga. The upper part is
shoulders (Catacomb painting, 4th century). narrowly pleated. Time of the Emperor Justinian (527-565).
2. Evangelist in the costume of the 5th century (Mosaic at 14, Warrior in a leather cuirass with mantle tied up on one
Ravenna). shoulder. Phrygian cap and round shield. Mosaic in San
3, Elderly Christian woman wearing a mantle in the shape of Marco, Venice.
the casula, the costume of officiating priests. Kerchief. 15. Woman wearing very wide woman’s tunica with slits for
4, Lady of rank wearing striped dalmatica. the arms.

'BYZANTINE EMPIRE. 4gth-r1th Centuries.

Through the destruction of the Ostrogothic kingdom in 552 2. Consul from the first half of the 5th century. Consuls, al-
A.D, Italy was re-conquered by the Byzantine Empire. Ravenna though of no importance any more since the institution of
became the residence of the Byzantine governors and is today emperors, were still nominated by the Senate. The years
a major source of our knowledge of Byzantine culture and wete named after them (until 541). From then on the
costume. This is characterized by great magnificence; much silk, emperor became Consul Perpetuus.
gold, jewelry and gaily coloured and patterned materials.
. Galla Placidia, sister of the emperors Arcadius (Eastern
Top Group
Empire) and Honorius (Western Empire), wife of Athaulf,
1. The Emperor Arcadius (since 395 A.D. Emperor of the
king of the Visigoths, lived at Ravenna after his death.
Eastern Empire, i. e. Byzantine Empire). The imperial orb
(Ivory carving in the cathedral of Monza).
was otiginally the imperial Roman emblem of the earth and
world dominion. Later the Christian cross was added as an . The Emperor Valentinian HI. (435-455 A.D.) of the
attribute of the western Emperors. Western Empire, son of Galla Placidia.

18
Centre Group outer garment exposing the lower part of the tight sleeves
5 11. Figures important for their costume from the choir of of the tunic. Triangular neck and shoulder collar, from the
the Church of San Vitale, Ravenna. Mosaics after 552 A.D. 10th century on, part of the ruler’s official costume. Beard
The Emperor Justinian (9) and the Empress Theodora (11) (in fashion in the Byzantine Empire from the 7th to the 14th
with offerings accompanied by their retinue. 5. Companion centuries). Crown with ornamental chains.
of the Empress. 6. Lady in waiting to the Empress. 7. Dis-
14, Dignitary from the same period (11th century) wearing a
tinguished courtier. 8. Weapon-bearer of the Emperor. His
mantle in the shape of the Greek chlamis. Red socks,
magnificent shield studded with jewels and decorated with
sandals with white straps.
the initials of Christ: X and P (Ch and R).
. The Emperor Justinian. 10. Bishop Maximinian in the TS The Emperor Romanus II. (died 963).
Emperor’s retinue.
16 and 17. The Emperor Nicephorus III. (cf. 13) and his con-
at. The Empress Theodora. sort in official costume; the emperor wears the pallium
12: Byzantine warrior (7th—8th centuries). According to an wrapped round shoulders and hips, originally a clerical
ivory carving in the cathedral, Aix-la-Chapelle. garment. It is made of coloured brocade (in contradistinct-
ion to the clerical pallium, which was white and decorated
Bottom Group with crosses). The empress, too, wears the insignia of a
13. The Emperor Nicephorus II. (died 1081) wearing a rich ruler: pallium, sceptre, crown.

MIDDLE AGES. MONASTIC ORDERS AND ORDERS OF KNIGHTS.

Top Group
covering back and chest and a hole for the head. Black
q- 5. Orders of Knights. hooded mantle.
te Templars. The Order of the Knights Templar was founded . Franciscan. The order was founded by the layman Francis
at Jerusalem in 1119 by French crusaders. Their head- of Assisi in 1208. The Franciscans’ garb is the brown cotton
quarters were south from the Mosque of Omar on the cowl with a rope in place of a girdle and sandals on bare feet.
Temple site from whence they derived their name. Red Augustinian monk. It was not until 1244, after having been
cross on white linen mantle. founded years, that the Augustinians had their rule for-
. Armoured Templar: coat of mail covered by a girdled tunic mally confirmed. Indoor garment: white woollen cowl and
with sword, belt and sword. scapulary. Outdoor garb: wide black cowl with long wide
. Knight of the Teutonic Order. Representation of 1243. It sleeves and hood. Through Luther, who had been an
was in 1189/90, during the third crusade, that crusaders from Augustinian monk, this garment was adopted by the Re-
Bremen and Liibeck laid the foundation of a hospital near formers and Protestant preachers.
Acte, whose brethren were raised to the rank of an Order ‘9. Benedictine monk. The order of the Benedictines was
of Knights by German princes in 1196. The order consisted founded by St. Benedict of Nursia in 528 as thefirst’resid-
of knight-brethren and priest-brethren. In 1211 the order ential monastic order at the monastery of Monte Cassino
received as a gift the district of Burgenland in Transylvania near Naples. His statutes became the foundations of the
and later on the Kulmerland and parts of East and West- whole monastic life. They vowed obedience, chastity and
Prussia. White mantle with black cross. poverty. The abbot was the head of the monks whose time
Knight of the Order of the Hospitallers of St. John of Jer- was divided into periods of prayer and labour (ora et /abora).
usalem (16th century). Originally founded about 1048 in Later on science and art as well as teaching children were
Jerusalem for the purpose of nursing sick pilgrims (Hos- some of the tasks of these monks. Their garb, although diff-
pital and hostel near the Church of the Holy Sepulchre). ering according to districts, consisted in the main of a
After the first Crusade the hospitallers were raised to the black cowl, mantle and scapulary.
rank of an Order of Knights, the oldest of such orders, in 10. Carthusian monk. The order of Carthusian monks was
1113 was reorganized and received special rules. The order founded in 1084 by St. Bruno of Cologne at Chartreuse
consisted of three classes of brethren: knights, priests, ser- near Grenoble. The rule of the order demanded an ascetic
ving brethren. Their first headquarters were in Ptolemais, life and silence outside the Holy Service, forgoing meat
from 1291 in Cyprus, 1309 in the island of Rhodes (hence dishes and living in solitary cells. Costume: white cloth
called Knights of Rhodes), 1530-1798 in Malta (Knights of cowl with leather girdle, white scapulary both parts con-
Malta), 1826 in Ferrara, 1834 in Rome. Oldest costume of nected by a broad strip of material at the back and front,
the Order: black mantle with a white linen eight-cornered black mantle. Theorder exists inFrance, Italyand Switzerland.
cross. ie Capuchin monk. The order of Capuchins is one of the many
. Lady of honour of the Order of St. John of Jerusalem. branches of the Franciscan order (cf. 7) also called Minor-
Costume of a later period (18th century). ites, founded in 1527 in Italy. They are named after the
6-16. Monastic Orders. pointed brown capouch attached to the cowl. The mantle
reaches down to below the arms. In place of a girdle they
Centre Group weat a knotted rope. The cowl was rather tight, just wide
6. Dominican. The preaching order of the Dominicans was enough to allow it to be slipped over. Sandals, socks only
founded in 1215 by the Castilian Dominic. Costume: white in emergency. The costume is brown. They wear a beard
garment, white scapulary, large cloth made of two pieces, and carry a rosary.

19
 Bottom Group

12, Carmelite monk on outdoor costume. The order was bands. Full white mantle, white neck-cloth. Brown veil.
founded on Mount Carmel in the Holy Land in 1156 by the Blue stole with golden crosses. Blue maniple hanging over
South Italian crusador Bertold and confirmed by the Pope left arm. In her left hand she carries a burning candle and
in 1226. Among the younger branches of the order the wears a five pointed crown on her head. Doyé in Die alten
Observants, or barefooted Carmelites follow a more severe Trachten der ménnlichen und weiblichen Orden, (Leipzig, 1929),
tule. The picture shows a shoeless Carmelite monk in a says that ’¢his garb, ifhistorically true, was worn against the rule.”
brown woollen cowl and scapulary. Outer garment: a tight The indoor outfit consisted of white skirt, white scapulary
white hooded mantle. Rosary. and neck-cloth, white veil which was also lined with white
13; Carthusian monk in outdoor garb: soutane (cloth tunic), material. Black shoes, white cloth mantle.
white scapulary. black hooded mantle which is gathered at 16. Nun of the order of the Visitation, so-called Salesian nun.
the shoulders. Black shoes. The order was founded in 1610. Black pleated dress of
coatse wool with long, fairly wide sleeves which are turned
14. Carthusian monk wearing indoor garb: white cowl, white back exposing tight sleeves underneath. Silver cross at-
scapulary with hood (cf. 10). tached to a black woollen ribbon hanging down over her
15. Carthusian nun during the ceremony of investiture when breast. White neck-cloth (barbette) tied round the neck.
taking the veil. Ornaments for this special occasion: Over Black fillet, black veil. The Salesian order, like numerous
the white woollen garment the scapulary held together by others, followed the Augustinian rule.

29 ECCLESIASTICAL COSTUME AND ORDERS OF KNIGHTS. 1400-7800.

Top Group wears the scarlet of a cardinal in his position as Cardinal-

£; Roman Deacon (1450) wearing a long white dalmatica (sub- bishop of Rome.
ucula). 10. Priest of the Order of the Knights of Our Lady of Mount
Le Flemish Deacon (1460) wearing a short outer dalmatica Carmel and St. Lazarus in Jerusalem. Costume as 8.
over the long subucula. 6-10. After Schwan, Abbildungen der geistlichen Orden, 1791.
. Priest about 1470 wearing vestments for the mass with chas-
Bottom Group
uble (round bell-shaped mantle, cut out at the sides) and
stole only the fringed ends of which are visible over the 11. Lady of Honour or Lady of Devotion of the Order of St. John
dalmatica. in the 18th century, wearing black garment with black
mantle, tight-fitting linen cap over the shorn head and over
. Bishop wearing double chasuble over the dalmatica and
this a black stiff veil like a cap with lappets. (The veil is the
alba and a mitre, a bishop’s crozier and maniple (originally
symbol of betrothal to Christ. The linen headdress is a
a linen sudarium). According to Matthias Griinewald’s
reminder of Christ’s shroud). White cross on breast and
painting in Munich, about 1525.
left side of the mantle.
. Pope in ceremonial costume, that is as a bishop of the
12. Knight of the Spanish Order of St. James of the Sword,
Lateran church, Rome. His mass vestments consist of a
founded in 1170 by King Ferdinand of Leon and Galicia,
shoulder wrap (humerale),an alba (white gown), a cingulum
14th century. White garment with girdle. Mantle fastened
girdle, not visible in this picture), a tunicella (fringed dal-
by a cord. Gauntlets. Beret with St. Andrew’s scallop shell.
matica reaching down below the knees) and outer and more
Red cross on white mantle.
tichly decorated dalmatica, a stole (a narrow band), a chas-
13. Knight of the Order of the Golden Fleece (18th century),
uble, embroidered gloves and mitre (the papal tiara consist-
founded in 1429 by Philip the Good, duke of Burgundy at
ing of three crowns). Crozier with double cross, According
Bruges (in remembrance of the ancient Greek legend
to a Low-Rhenish painting about 1480.
according to which the Argonauts sailed off to Colchis to
Centre Group catry home the Golden Fleece (tam’s skin). Bright red robe
and wine-red wide mantle lined with white material and
6. Bishop of the 17th century wearing ceremonial robes with
richly embroidered. Golden chain of the Order with the
tichly decorated chasuble. Bands (fanones) are hanging golden fleece (toison d’or) pendent on it. White shoes with
down from the mitre. Dutch (After a painting by Rubens). red heels.
- Pope Pius VI. (1775-99) pronouncing the benediction in 14. Knight of the Order of St. Stephen, Hungary, founded in
Vienna and wearing the white chasuble over the stole, 1764 by Maria Theresia, the robe resembling the costume of
tunicella and alba, as well as the mitre. the Hungarian magnates.
. Bishop wearing canon’s vestments: violet soutane and over 15. Teutonic Knight of the 18th century (the Teutonic Order
it a surplice. Over the shoulders a short cape (manteletia). was founded in 1189). The costume reflects the rococo
Violet beret (biretta). fashion but the colour of the material is black without
. Pope when appearing in public (not at holy service), wear- pattern or embroidery. The special costume of the Order is
ing white silk soutane, surplice, red velvet cape (mozetta) represented by the white mantle (with lapels) ornamented
richly trimmed with ermine, red gold-embroidered stole. with a black cross, the simple scarf and the high boots (cf.
Red velvet hat. In addition to the white papal garments he Doyé, Die alten Trachten der Orden. 1929).

20
 GERMANY from the Merovingians to the Hohenstaufen emperors, 500-1200. 30
Top Group Pious (le Pieux) first King of France (Western Frankish
1-3. Frankish noblemen of the Merovingian and Carolingian kingdom 840-877).
times. Long-sleeved tunic decorated with silk braids or % A Princess. 8 and 9 according to a miniature. (Bible of
embroidered patterns. Girdle. Mantle fastened on the right Charles the Bold).
shoulder by a brooch. Long hose bound with bands at the 10. Carolingian king according to a relief on a book cover.
knees and the lower part of the leg bandaged according to ie The German king Henry II. (1022-1024) according to a
old Germanic fashion leaving the toes exposed. Otherwise miniature.
soft leather boots. 12. Frankish man of the 10th century (cf. 1-3) wearing boots.
. Frankish warrior with round shield with the buckle fixed 13; Frankish woman wearing linen kerchief over her head.
on the crossed iron frame. Carolingian iron helmet with Bottom Group
crest. Breeches. Bands wound round the legs and sandals. 14. The Emperor Rudolph of Swabia (chosen in opposition to
About 850. Henry IV. of Germany, died 1080) in coronation robes.
. Warrior with helmet and the rest of the head protected by According to a tombstone at Merseburg.
armour. Coat of mail with skirt studded with metal plates. 15-17. Women’s costume of the later 11th century. Girdled
About 900-950. garments which are slipped over long-sleeved tunics. 15
Centre Group and 17 wear a long fur-lined mantle, fastened over the
6. Frankish woman in a long-sleeved tunic the borders gaily breast with a cord. 16 wears an unusual undergarment
decorated. Mantle fastened on the breast by a brooch. Soft which is open in front and exposes the long tight-fitting hose.
pointed leather shoes in the Roman fashion. 18. Sword-bearer of the time of the crusades with parti-coloured
7. Frankish noble lady wearing two garments, the one under- garment; two pieces differing in colour sewn together down
neath with long tight sleeves, which are visible. Embroid- the middle.
ered long mantle pulled over the head. 19. Noble youth in a long tunic with high collar and gathered
8. Charles the Bold (youngest son of the Emperor Louis the by a girdle.

EUROPE. Early Middle Ages (300-1000) and Byzantine Empire, 9th-11th Centuries. 31
Top Group
1 and 2. Men of the earliest Middle Ages (according to ivory iastical stole is seen hanging down. It was a wide band put
catvings) in Florence, 4th century. round the neck, made of gold thread. The shoulders are
3. Warrior in the late Roman costume (ivory carving from the covered by a cape (instead of the palladium), woven through
episcopal throne of St. Maximilianus at Ravenna). with gold threads. Along the right leg hangs the so-called
4, South European man of rank (according to an ivory carving). hypogonation: the bag with tassel of the higher clergy.
5. Warrior (according to the mosaics of San Marco, Venice). 42; Bishop (Pontifex) of the Greek church with the pallium. With
the Romans the pallium was originally a mantle which in
Centre Group
clerical costume was reduced to a wide band (similar to the
6. Man of rank of the 10th century (ivory slab in the museum stole). In the Roman Catholic Church it was bestowed by the
at Milan. The Emperor Otto I. and his family kneeling). Pope on the archbishops, rarely on bishops, as a special sign
i. Woman of rank of the early Middle Ages with the draped of distinction. The bishops ofthe Greek church generally wear
veil-like mantle. (Mosaic in San Marco). it. The ecclesiastical pallium is always white with red crosses.
8. The Emperor Honorius, 5th century (ivory slab at Aosta).
i Representation of a priest of high rank wearing a pallium
<5 Figure (servant girl from the mosaics of the church of Santa (but with black crosses for a religious festival). From the
Maria Maggiore, Rome. Triumphal arch, 5th century). mosaics of the Church of San Marco, Venice.
10. Warrior (according to an ivory carving formerly in the
14: Byzantine monk with a tunic arranged in folds and mantle.
Kaiser Friedrich Museum, Berlin).
High leather boots over the patterned hose.
Bottom Group 15. Greek-Byzantine empress from the time of the first crusade
11. Greek (Byzantine) patriarch of the 9th century. The eccles- about 1096.

GERMANY. Time of the Minnesingers and Crusades. 12th-13th Centuries. 52

1. Woman of rank in a long close fitting garment with tight 5. Peasant in a girdled tunic with pleated skirt. Long hose.
sleeves above the elbow, and falling down wide and open Hood.
below it. 12th century. 5. Jew with a long girdled tunic and mantle trimmed with
. The Emperor Frederick I. (Barbarossa) as a crusader (ac- yellow stripes. Pointed yellow hat (Jew’s hat).
cording to a miniature from Northern Italy, end of 12th
century). 6. Vagrant minstrel with fiddle wearing a furred tunic.
. Woman of rank wearing a short-sleeved tunic-like garment 7-19. Costumes from the so-called Manesse-Liederhandschrift
over the long under garment with long ermine trimmed (a manuscript of songs) in the University library of Heidel-
sleeves. Shoulder mantle. Kerchief. Late 12th century. berg.

21
 7. Princely minnesinger. 12. The Jewish minnesinger Siisskind with the pointed Jew’s
8. Man of rank. hat as prescribed by the Lateran Council of 1215.
9, and 10. Woman and girl belonging to the court. 13-17. Ordinary minnesingers, dancing and playing instruments.
11. Man in travelling attire. 18 and 19. Minstrels.

33 FRANCE IN THE MIDDLE AGES. 900-1400.

1-6. French Costume in the 11th century (partly according to 10. Knight with battle-axe wearing a material garment over
frescos in the vaulting of the Abbey Church of St. Savin at the coat of mail.
Poitou). The peculiar pointed conical caps partly with the 11. Elderly man with sleeveless tunic falling in folds down to
point bent down, (similar to the ancient Phrygian cap) are the knees and a hood attached to it.
striking. Similar in shape is the helmet with bands (3 and 6): 12. Falcon-bearer with a head-dress tied under the chin (similar
Knights in the coat of mail over the tunic. to 8 and 9) and wearing long hooded cloak and gauntlets.
Centre Group 13 and 14. Youth and woman in hooded cloaks (13 shows the
7. Knight wearing scale armour over coat of mail and a flat hood hanging down over the back; 14 has drawn it over the
iron hat. head.
8 and 9. Squires in girdled tunics with caps also covering the 15. Girl in long-sleeved garment, the upper part close-fitting.
ears and tied under the chin. 7-15 Miniature paintings from the 12th—13th centuries.

34 NORMANS AND ANGLO-SAXONS. r7¢h to 14th Centuries.

Top Group
1-9. According to representations on the embroidered tap- Saxons). Scaled hawberk, mantle fastened by a brooch,
estry at Bayeux (Normandy) after 1066 (Battle of Hastings). calves bandaged.
1 . Fully armed Norman horseman. The coat of mail consists 6. Light-armed Norman in a short girdled tunic.
of material with rings sewn on. The legs are protected in the 7. Anglo-Saxon archer. The small conical cap covers half long
same way. Over the hood of mail is the basinet reinforced hair.
by bands with nose guard. Wooden shield, lance. . Norman with a large wooden shield.
. Light-armed Norman. The hair at the back of his head 9. Light-armed Anglo-Saxon with a moustache and long hose.
shorn in the Norman fashion.
. Dismounted horseman from the army of the Anglo-Saxon Bottom Group
King Harold. Armour like No.1. Legs bandaged with 10-12. Norman peasants (12th century).
leather bands. Buckle shield. 13 and 14. Peasant women (13th-14th centuries); 14: hood
4. Anglo-Saxon warrior with club and large wooden shield. with nape protection.
Centre Group 15. Man of rank in fur-lined travelling dress. Hood with collar
5. Norman warrior with battle axe (not used by the Anglo- and fur cap (14th century).

35 ARMOURED KNIGHTS (800-1300) CRUSADERS (1100-1300).

Top Group Centre Group
Protective armour: helmet, coat of mail, shield. 6-12. Crusaders.
Offensive weapons: lance, sword, dagger, battle-axe and mace. 6. Crusader, wearing helmet, strengthened by a band, from the
1. Knight with iron helmet over leather cap, scaled coat of mail time of the German Emperor Henry VI.
(iron plates fixed on leather doublet) over pleated leather skirt; 7. Crusader from the time of Barbarossa. Barrel helmet. The
round buckler, lance, long sword, calves bandaged, should- horse’s trappings ornamented with coat of arms.
er mantle (sagum) from the Carolingian period about 800.
. Knight wearing helmet withiron bands and nose guard (nasale) Bottom Group
chain mail (with hose all in one piece). Elongated, large 8. Knight wearing chain mail. 12th century.
three-cornered shield with rounded corners. Short sword.
y . Saracen warrior with two lances and large round shield.
. Knight with iron helmet and short chain hawberk. Round
Short girdled and quilted tunic over loin-skirt. In front of
shield and battle-axe.
him the small Saracen fist-shield. On his head a turban.
. Knight covered by barrel helmet (flat-topped helmet;
heaume). Over the ringed coat of mail (byrnie) the girdled . Knight covered by an iron hat. 13th century, time of the
and sleeveless surcoat falling down to the knees and called crusades.
cote armure. Small pointed shield. Ad, High helmet resembling bishop’s mitre.
. Knight wearing on his head a basinet with nose-guard 12. Knight wearing ringed mail (byrnie) with hood under the
(nasale cf. 2). Surcoat over coat of mail. Large shield. Horn. sutcoat. In his right hand the barrel helmet. 13th century.

22
 EUROPE, KNIGHTS. r4th and 15th Centuries. 36
Burgundy, France, England, Italy, Poland
Top Group wings or ailettes fixed as shoulder or neck pieces to the
1. Burgundian armour about 1450. Plate mail over chain mail. ringed or chain mail.
Barrel-like cap made of jagged pieces of cloth. From the 7. Knight with bells hanging from the girdle, about 1350.
girdle hang the then fashionable bells. 8. Polish archer. 14th century. From his girdle hangs the hook
2. Burgundian armour about 1425. to stretch the bow.
3. English armour. 15th century. Plate mail which replaced 9. Polish nobleman. 15th century.
the older chain mail in England about 1450. Battle-axe for 10. Horseman alighted, about 1375.
beating and pushing, still in use with lance and sword. The
long handle indicates the further development towards a Bottom Group
partisan or halberd about this time. 11-16. Italian battle dress in the 14th century.
4. English armour. 14th century (Edward, the Black Prince,
11. Armoured soldier protected by numerous plates.
died 1376). Chain mail with hood of mail, rerebrace of plate
12. Condottiere (Italian general) in mangnificent ceremonial
to defend the arms and greaves to protect the legs, close
outfit, with field marshal’s baton, chain mail covered by
fitting surcoat. It is decorated with the owner’s coat of
plates, surcoat, beret. Decorated horse trappings.
arms.
5. French armoured horseman, archer. He wears brigantine, 13 and 14. Foot soldiers, mercenaries.
i. e. plate armour. About 1450. At this time the cross-bow 15. Italian knight.
replaces the bow in battle. 16. Mercenary wearing ringed mail under the brigantine. Naked
legs. Calves and feet bandaged over pieces of material,
Centre Group narrow shield. Partly after paintings in the Campo-santo at
6. Young Burgundian knight, 14th century, with upright Pisa (about 1350-60).

ENGLAND IN THE MIDDLE AGES. roth-1sth Centuries. aN)

Top Group Hohenstaufen. The hair was gathered in the nape by a net.
1. Anglo-Saxon, 10th century in a long-sleeved tunic gathered A chapel (crown-like cap with cheek and chin band).
by a girdle with a short cape-like mantle fastened by a clasp 6. Girl of the 13th century in a short-sleeved outer garment
ot brooch on the right shoulder. Hose (in fact stockings (cf. the Suckenie of the German costume of that period) over
sewn together) bandaged with straps or bands. Shoes made the long under garment with tight sleeves. Hooded collar
of soft material or leather. for protection.
2. Irish monk, 10th century. Centre Group
3. Warrior of the 11th century (time of the Norsemen’s in-
7-13. English costume of the 14th century, on the whole
vasions) in a thick armoured coat with small iron plates
corresponding to the prevailing Burgundian-French
sewn on and a hood attached to it. Underneath tunic
fashion of the continent.
reaching down to the calves. Helmet with chinstrap and
nose-protection. High soft leather boots. Bottom Group
4 and 5. Women of the 12th century in long-sleeved garments 14-20. English costume of the 15th century, also following the
with small girdles and mantles fastened by a cord, a costume fashion on the continent. According to examples in Strutt:
which was also common in Germany at the time of the Dress and Habits of the People of England, 1862.

ARMOURED KNIGHTS. FRANCE AND GERMANY. 15th Century. 38

Top Group
1-5, French. Centre Group
1, French knight about 1405 in the earlier plate armour. Basinet 6-15. German
with movable vizor, underneath the hood of mail with large 6. Armour in the princely armoury at Sigmaringen, supposed
camail. The plating of the armour which is laced at the back to have belonged to Count Eitel Friedrich I. of Hohen-
consists of small studded plates on which the skirt of zollern (died 1439).
tonlets is fastened as a protection of the loins.
7. St. George from the altar by Hans Multscher (died 1463) in
2. French foot soldier under Charles VII. at the time of Joan
Sterzing, Tyrol.
of Arc about 1430 during the Hundred Years’ War.
3. Archer from the same period. 8. St. George (after the wood carving of about 1420, formerly
4. French knight of the same period in plated armour. Helmet at Kaiser Friedrich Museum, Berlin).
in the shape of a sa/e¢ with vizor, shield with three buckles, 9. St. Gereon (according to a painting in the Museum at
battle axe. Cologne).
5. Ceremonial armour from the time of King Louis XI. (1461 10. Knight Konrad of Schauenburg (according to the tomb by
to 1483). Tilman Riemenschneider at Wiirzburg).
 Bottom Group
11. Johann von Eschbach (according to the tomb at Lorch on 13. Plate armour about 1450.
the Rhine). 14 and 15. Fluted harnesses about 1500. So-called Maximilian
1: St. Victor (according to a wood carving in the museum at armour.
Wiesbaden).

So, ITALIAN MONUMENTS REPRESENTING KNIGHTS. 13¢h to rsth Centuries.

— . Statue of a horseman representing Mastino IT. (died 1289), bearers of coats of arms. The armour in the antique tradition.
by Petino Milanese. 13th century, Verona, tomb of the Doot lintel (sopraporta) on the palace at Vico Mele, Genoa.
Scaliger near the church of Santa Maria Antica, Verona. Lombard school. 15th century.
. Statue of a horseman, representing Can grande da Verona 1-3. Show battle horses with large wide partly decorated
by Giovanni da Campione. 1329. trappings. The armoured knights wear 1. the high barrel
. Tomb of Guglielmo Berardi near the church of Santissima helmet, 2. the basinet with a barrel helmet hanging down
Anunziata at Florence, 14th century. on the back, 3. the iron helmet over the hood of mail and
. Relief of a horseman (St. George with the dragon) with two 4, the sa/et with neck plate and vizor.

40 GERMANY. Garments of People of Rank as represented by 13th Century Sculpture.

= . Margrave Hermann von Meissen (died 1032) and his con- consist of the long-sleeved long tunic gathered by a girdle
sort Reglindis. Statues in the west choir of the cathedral at (not visible) which is covered by a wide sleeveless outer
Naumburg about 1250-70. Both wear the girdled long garment, the so-called schaperun, that of the man having
tunic with close fitting sleeves. The slit to widen the hole short wide sleeves hanging down from the shoulders as
for slipping over the head is fastened on the breast by a well as ornamental buttons on the chest. The outer gar-
brooch. Hermann also wears as an outer garment a sleeve- ment has slits at the sides which are fastened by buttons.
less mantle (Schaperun) with six ornamental buttons and Both wear the fillet-like chape/ on their heads. The one of
without girdle. The wide semi-circular mantle is kept in the man decorated like a crown.
place by means of a band over the chest with flat brooches . Synagogue (Old Testament) with broken rod and veiled eyes.
on both sides. The woman’s hair is veiled by a kerchief Statue at the side of the princes portal on the northern aisle
passed round the chin. Over it she wears the chape/ in the of the Bamberg cathedral. About 1250. Long trailing gar-
shape of a cap held in place by a crown-like fillet. ment of finest diaphanous material gathered by a girdle.
. Margrave Ekkehard II. von Meissen (died 1046) and his A brooch at the base of the neck.
consort Uta. Statues in the west choir of the cathedral at . The Emperor Heinrich IT. and his consort Kunigunde, the
Naumburg. Costume like 1. The man in a long girdled founders of the cathedral at Bamberg. Statues on the left
tunic with mantle. The soft cap on his head does not jambs of the south-east portal (Adam’s gate) of the cathedral
entirely cover his curly hair. The woman’s mantle has a high at Bamberg. About 1240. The woman wears a long outer
collar. Over the barbe (cf. 1) the cap-like chape/ but a higher garment (schaperun) with girdle over the long girdled
crown-shaped fillet. tunic, the man wears a mantle draped over one shoulder.
. Foolish Virgin and prince of the world as seducer. Statues . Ekklesia (the Church, the New Testament). Girdled gar-
on the south portal of the west facade of Strasbourg cathe- ment with brooch like 4, covered by a shoulder mantle held
dral in Alsace (about 1280-1300). Both their garments by a band across the chest.

41 ARMOURED KNIGHTS. GERMANY AND BURGUNDY. 14th Century.

Top Group 8. Doublet with pleated skirt both decorated with embroidered
1-8. German. ot woven coat of arms.
1, Over the chain mail short leather doublet reaching down Bottom Group
only as far as the loins; breast plate, helmet and helmet-
9-12. Burgundian.
protection, Legs cased in plate; knee cops.
9 and 9a. Burgundian knight (about 1380) covered by a steel
2 and 3, Chain mail covered by leather doublet with chain
basinet with movable vizor. This form of helmet was called
sewn in.
Hlundsgugel in Germany. Small shield cut out at the side.
4. Knight in indoor costume. Doublet, short close fitting
10. Knight from Neufchatel, without vizor, about 1370, wear-
cape over chest and back.
ing basinet with camail edge.
1. Standard-bearer about 1300 with the insignia of a crusader
Centre Group
who has taken the vows (cross and pilgrim’s staff), Flat
5. Knight wearing ermine coat and iron Anee cops which are topped helmet (heaume) with the vizor screwed on.
attached separately. They later on developed into greaves. . Knight’s armour about 1370. Lance, large shield for horse-
6. Leather doublet down to the loins, leather hose, knee cops. men who had alighted and tried to protect themselves with
7. Leather doublet worn over complete chain mail. several of such shields against archers, etc.

24
 KNIGHTS ARMOUR AND WEAPONS. zys00-1575. 42
Plate armour consisted of the following pieces: helmet with 4, Italian round shield, made of six pieces, similar to the ones
gorget, shoulder plates with pieces connecting them with in use in Germany about 1500. In France called rondache.
breast and back plate casing for the arms, elbow cops, gaunt- ae Heavy helmet with vizor of polished iron (cf. plate 43).
lets, coat of mail with steel bands, loin covering, knee cops, 6. Helmet with ear-like appliances standing out (called
greaves, iron shoes (following the fashion of the wide shoes horse’s face, i.e. Rofstirn in German). Iron, studded with
after 1500). This armour of overlapping and movable plates brass nails and a thorn.
and greaves was even more perfected under Maximilian I. Hf Burgundian helmet of polished iron with crest, with
by fluted plates which increased the power of resistance protruding nose and nape guards and cheek plates.
against attack. These coats of mail were called Maximilian 8. Iron cap with cheek guards.
armour or Milan armour. a Pointed iron cap, (called Birnenhelm=pear-shaped helmet in
. German armour made of polished iron with movable iron German).
bands. The metal is either polished or tarnished by oxidizing 10 and 11. Sword hilts with the so-called ass’s hoof, ornamental
ot applying acids or by painting it black. bands surrounding hilt and blade.
. German steel armour about 1515 with high shoulder plates
(French: passe-gardes). The right shoulder plate is much Bottom Group
smaller and appears as a sort of free-standing disk in order to Tilting over the lists with coronet on the end of the lances (cf.
leave room for fixing the jousting lance. The steel tonlets plate 43). On the right: Frederick, Count Palatine; onthe left:
ate rigid, not overlapping and movable. Duke Wilhelm IV. of Bavaria. According to the Turnierbuch
iss). Italian armour. The polished iron decorated by patterns (Tournament book) of the Bavarian Dukedom 1510-18,
produced by etching. Original miniatures. Munich, Bayrische Staatsbibliothek.

EUROPE. MIDDLE AGES. Helmets and Swords. 43

Pointed helmet with nose guard (nasal). Bottom Group
French copper helmet of the 12th century. aot German knights tilting, from the end of the 12th century.
and 4. Flat topped helmet (heaume) with movable vizor, (Reign of the Emperor Heinrich VI.). Helmets with nose
1280. guards (nasals); Italian nasale; cf. fig. 1. Small shields,
. Painted flat topped helmet (heaume), 1240. lances with pennons. Right: large horse-cover. From the
. Italian flat topped helmet (heaume). About 1250. manuscript of a south-Italian Norman.
. Head protection from a picture of the 9th century. 40. Spanish knight in the tourney yard. According to a repre-
and 9, German swords 1100-1400. sentation in the Alhambra near Granada.
. Bassinet with vizor, a close fitting round cap. 1310. 41. Knight, jousting. Beginning of the 14th century. The spear
. Pointed helmet with side wings. French and English. About of the opponent (whose picture has not been preserved) is
1270. Not used after 1325. not pointed but shows the little coronal usual at tourna-
42. German basinet. 1370. ments (sometimes a pointless metal end was fixed). Crested
$3. Pointed basinet with vizor. flat-topped helmet (eaume). Surcoat and large horse cover
14-16. and 21. Northern swords. From the Copenhagen Nation- (French: housse). From the Codex Balduini Trevirensis
al Museum. 1000-1450. about 1330.
ie Basinet with nose guard (nasal). 1350. 42. Helmet with crest (in the shape of a dragon) of King JamesI.
18. German helmet worn for tilting. 1370. of Aragon (died 1276). Imitating Oriental forms. Madrid.
19. Spanish basinet. Arteria Real.
20. English basinet. 1380-90. As to the development of helmets: The conical form of the
. French sword. About 1375. 11th century develops into a large flat-topped (barrel-
. French basinet with vizor. 1350-90. shaped) helmet (heaume) in the 12th century. This flat-
. Spanish sword. 1480. topped helmet wrought in one piece is worn over the
. Sale¢t with the Wittelsbach crest. 1449. basinet which, from the 13th century replaced the hood of
. Danish sword. 1400. mail. From about 1300 onwards the basinet is worn without
and 29. Early spear heads of Norsemen. the heaume, developing into a more conical shape in the
. French helmet. 1430. 14th century and later on becoming more pointed, and is
. Tournament helmet for fighting with swords and maces. completed by a nose-guard (nasal) and vizor. — The iron
About 1450. hat (32-33) is an old independent shape of helmet disdained
. French salade or salet. 1420. by knights but worn by the ordinary soldiers, vassals,
. Iron hat. 1460 archers and cross-bow men. When later adopted by knights
. Iron hat, Danish. About 1475. two slits were pierced into the front brim, through which
and 36. Salets resembling more modern helmets. the horseman with his head bent could look. This is the
a and b. Salets with mentonniére, chin protection. 1480. origin of the salet (French: salade = bowl. 35 a and 35 b)
. Striped helmet (armet) with simple vizor. 1506. of the late 15th century which adopts the long horizontal
. Striped helmet (armet) with chin guard (mentonnitre) and slit for the eyes from the iron hat but has a less projecting
vizor. brim. It also adds the mentonniére (35 b and 25) as a charac-

25
 ~~

teristic novelty. This mentonniére, a movable chin pro- (30). (They were specially favoured in heraldry). —- In the
tection, is the forerunner of the vizor, also the neck guard time of Maximilian I. the so-called knight’s helmet appears.
of the salet, which originally is a rigid protecting part of It originated from the basinet, but the camail of the basinet
the helmet (see figs. 31 and 35 a) becomes a movable joint gave way to the rigid steel plates, the gorget (as a pro-
made of several plates (36) — Tournament helmets vary tection of the neck) while the vizor consisted of two mov-
according to purpose whether for tilting or jousting and able overlapping parts: the chin-guard and the vizor proper,
often have the vizor made of steel bands or trellissed rods which turn on the same pivot.

44 Top Group
FRANCE. r4th Century.

1 Youth in a semi-long girdled doublet, hooded shoulder As an outer garment she wears the so-called surcoat, a
cape, hose and pointed shoes. sleeveless low-necked jacket which looks like a shoulder
2 Girl wearing a long outer garment gathered by a girdle just cape on this figure.
below the breasts with wide low neck and sleeves hanging 12. Prince at the court of Charles V. of France (died 1380) with
down to the knees. Her hair braided at the sides. (1 and 2 a cloak-like outer garment with long padded sleeves (so-
according to ivory tablets). called sabard). On his head a cap with a liripipe worn round
. Princess wearing a long trailing garment with long sleeves the neck. The high, upright collar is attached to the short
and outer garment gathered at the waist in rich folds. tunic under the coat.
. Prince wearing a close-fitting short doublet fastened in
Bottom Group
front by buttons and a low belt. The long open sleeves
expose the long and patterned sleeves of the under garment. 13. Women of rank in a long-sleeved gown with a girdle right
Hooded cape and parti-coloured hose (so-called mi-parii). under the breasts. Head-dress: the new-fashioned conical
. Courtier wearing jagged coat with jagged hooded cape hat (steeple cap) with a long flowing veil.
(cf. German Gugel, plate 53, 9 and 10). 14. Judge wearing a long fur trimmed tunic (tabard, cf. 12)
. Girl wearing parti-coloured outer garment slashed open at slashed open at the sides, slit sleeves padded at the shoul-
the sides, with long hanging sleeves. ders. Narrow-brimmed hat.
. Figure similar to 5; back view, the hood (gugel) pulled over 15. Youth wearing the new-fashioned short and close-fitting
the head.
jacket with wide sleeves exposing the tight sleeves of the
under garment.
Centre Group 16. Prince wearing the knee-length bell-shaped outer cloak
8. Knight wearing a girdled short close-fitting tunic with hood (heuque or huque; in German: Hoike or Heuke). Slit sleeves
and a tight fitting hat with the narrow brim turned up. over the short tunic with standing collar. Hat with liripipe.
as Similar to 3, the garment shows a close fitting bodice. 17. Distinguished citizen in a long wide outer cloak (tabard).
10. Dandy in a short tight-fitting coat buttoned down the front, 18. Young courtier in a short, girdled outer jacket with half
a belt round the hips, a collar with hood ending in a long open hanging sleeves over the short under jacket which has
liripipe. standing collar and tight sleeves. Turban-like cap. (The
hile Woman of rank wearing a long garment with long sleeves short jacket was called jacquetie in French and Schecke or
hanging down to the ground and having slits for the arms. Hanslein in German.)

45 BURGUNDIAN FASHION represented in Flemish Book Illustrations (Miniatures) of the 15th Century.
Top Picture
Reception and banquet at the court of the Duke of Bur- Mansel’s Fleur des histoires, painted about 1425-1435 by the
gundy. Miniature from the Geschichte des Karl Martell (his- so-called Mansel Master. Most of the women wear the high
tory of Charles Martel). Painted at Bruges 1470 by Loyset head-dress made of kerchiefs and drawn out at the sides to
Liédet. The ladies on the left wearing the high conical the form of a pair of bull’s horns wide veil, and a long fur
Burgundian steeple cap (hennin) and long trailing gowns trimmed outer garment draped in such a way as to expose
girdled under the breasts; the men wearing either the short the gown beneath. Short low-necked bodice. The kneeling
jacket or long coat with padded sleeves (mahoitres), high woman on the left as well as two others in the outer court
ort medium high hats with narrow brims, long pointed wear, in place of the short low-necked bodice, an ermine
shoes without the wooden sandals attached (cf. plate 51). jacket with pieces cut away under the arms and on the hips.
These jackets were worn by princesses, only on ceremonial
Bottom Picture occasions and weddings, in the 15th century. (Photographs
Coronation ceremony with retinue. Miniature from Jean by Prof. Dr. Friedrich Winkler.)

46 BURGUNDY. HEAD-DRESS. rth Century.

if Middle class woman with a large linen head-dress, covering ing to Jan van Eyck’s double portrait of Arnolfiniand his wife.
the hair. According to R. van der Weyden. 3. Burgomaster’s wife from Bruges, 1480, in a medium high
2s Distinguished Italian merchant (representing his country in Burgundian cap with veil (so-called hennin). According to
Bruges) wearing high Burgundian beaver hat, 1434, accord- Memling.

26
4, Man with conical cap. 8. The same merchant Arnolfini in a hat made of a roll of stuff
5. Learned man with hat made of a roll of material from which from which on one side the liripipe is hanging down and
folds of cloth hang down (cf.6 and 8). According to from the other a piece of material (cf. 5). According to Jan
Quentin Massys. van Eyck. 1439,
. Burgundian man of rank in the new-fashioned turban-hat. - Youth from Bruges with long curled hair falling down to
1433. According to Jan van Eyck. his shoulders. According to Hans Memling. 1487.
. Duke Philip the Good of Burgundy (died 1467) with crop- 10. The Count of Croy with his hair cut like 7. According to
ped hair giving the impression of a wig. Hans Memling.

LATE MIDDLE AGES. FOOTWEAR (Pointed shoes and wooden under-shoes). 47

ws. Pointed shoe with wooden under-shoe. 16. Shoe as part of the armour, similar to 6.
Pointed shoes with the point turned up and wooden under- 17. Flat under-shoe showing the straps.
shoes. 18. Thick under-shoe with wide strap in front. (According to
and 4. Pointed shoe in the museum of Colmar in Alsace originals and works by Hefner von Alteneck, Weiss, von
(about 1460). (The under-shoe is a later and incorrect re- Falke and Heyne). These pointed shoes (French: poulaine
construction). = prow) are already mentioned at the Synod of Reims 972,
Pointed shoe in addition to greaves and spurs. it is true but they only became fashionable inthe 14 thcentury,
Pointed shoe, part of the armour. originating in France they were imitated in Burgundy,
Ordinary wooden under-shoe, seen from above. from there went to Germany, England and Scotland. Dur-
Pointed under-shoe. Side view. ing the whole of the 15th century they were considered
a tequisite of distinguished costume. The points were
. Elongated flat under-shoe, side view.
sometimes turned up or held up by bands or chains. The
. Elongated under-shoe seen from above.
wooden under-shoes worn as a protection against the dirt
. The same shoe seen from below. and mud of the unpaved streets were mostly raised by thick
. Pointed boot of king James I. of Scotland. heels. We hear from a chronicle of 1480 that the fashion of
. Pointed boot with short under-shoe. the pointed shoe disappeared about this time and that shoes
. Short pointed shoe seen from below. with broad toes came into fashion which after 1500 te-
Pointed shoe. mained in use for about a generation.

ITALY. EARLY RENAISSANCE. 1485-90 according to Mural Paintings by Domenico Ghirlandaio. 48

Top Picture Bottom Picture
A Florentine woman of rank (Ludovica Tornabuoni) and Birth of John the Baptist. Mural painting by Ghirlandaio
her retinue visiting a woman in childbed. Birth of Mary, (as above, right wall).
mural painting by Domenico Ghirlandaio, choir chapel of Both pictures show characteristic costumes of Florentine
Santa Maria Novella, Florence (left wall) 1486-90. women and girls of different classes towards the end of the
Early Italian Renaissance.

GERMAN KNIGHTS’ apparel about 1300-1515. 49

. Knights riding to take part in tilting, i. e. display of fighting about 1500. (From the tourney book by Hans Burgkmair,
by several combatants. Plate harness with overlapping the Younger; formerly in the possession of the Princes of
pieces at the joints. Lances with blunt points. They were Hohenzollern.)
not manipulated by the hand alone but they were supported
by two hooks, attached to the armour, one holding the Bottom Picture

lance from below and the one in front from above to keep Tournament with pointed lances. Knights jousting. On the
it in a horizontal position. The horses, too, (strong stal- left Duke William IV. of Bavaria (died 1550), on the right
lions) had plates of armour on their heads. In addition, there Ritter von Egloffstein. (According to the tourney book of
were the magnificent tournament trappings, often embroid- Duke William IV. of Bavaria.) Original miniatures in the
ered with symbolical pictures and letters. The shape of the Bavarian State Library, Munich about 1515.
surcoat with long wide skirts corresponds to men’s fashion

Top Group
FRANCE. First Half of the 1th Century. 50
1-4, Young men of rank hawking; 1 and 2 wearing wide and for the arms, exposing the long sleeves of the tunic. Soft
long fur-trimmed girdled coats, open in front over short pointed shoes, 5 with under-shoes, high heeled wooden
pourpoint ot jacquette, small beret with ostrich feather over soles as a protection against the mud in the streets.
the tight fitting cap (ca/otte). 3 and 4 wearing short skirted
coats, conical hats with narrow brim, tight hose and soles Centre Group
attached under the feet. he Similar to 1 and 2 with specially long sleeves.
5 and 6. Youths wearing short fur-trimmed jackets with slits 8 and 9. Elderly men in long gowns (slipped over the head).

27
 -.

10. Lady wearing the sleeveless surcoat slipped over the head Bottom Group
over the wide-sleeved outer garment, showing the narrow 13-17. French ladies of rank in long trailing gowns some of
sleeves of the undergarment. them with girdle under the breasts (14). In the low-cut neck
11. Lady wearing a veiled coif drawn out into two points at the a small stomacher is inserted (14-17). Figs. 13 and 16 wear
sides and a short-sleeved outer garment over the patterned the new fashioned short fur-trimmed surcoat which is open
under-garment which has wide sleeves sewn onto it. in front. They wear various shapes of the characteristic
12. Princess wearing a low-necked trailing and girdled outer hennin (the Burgundian steeple cap with veils floating
garment over the long-sleeved undergarment. from it).

51 FRANCE. (Charles VII, 1483-98, Louis XII., 1498-1515).

Top Group 8. Man of rank, sitting with a flute. Mantle with long sleeves
1. Lady wearing a somewhat shorter garment over a trailing hanging down to the knees. Medium length hair. Beret.
under-garment and a head-dress in the Italian style covering a Lady of rank in a trailing gown with long wide hanging
ears and nape. sleeves with slits for the arms, showing the sleeves of the
2. Man of rank in hunting costume with a horn hanging from undergarment. Velvet turban-like cap fastened under the
a belt and wearing a beret, a knee-length coat with turned chin.
up cuffs and richly decorated borders. The shoes are 10. Man in a ceremonial costume: under-garment with scarlet
slightly pointed (forming the transition to the broad toes sleeves, over it long sleeveless trailing gown, slashed open
of the 16th century). at the sides and fastened by means of ribbons. Red chain
3. Queen with a long trailing outer garment with slits for the round his neck made of tassels. Medium length hair, cut
arms and a veil falling down from her head. straight over the forehead. Flat broad shoes.
4 and 5. Ladies in waiting wearing draped outer garments Bottom Group
with low cut neck exposing the fine Frisian linen. The
it. Lady in mourning. Hood-like veil with pleated kerchief in
woman on the right wears a head-dress covering the nape
front, so-called barbette. Long fur-lined gown. }
with a sort of roll on top.
12. Old man wearing wide mantle with cape-like collar. Berte
Centre Group with ostrich feather. Wide shoes with slits (about 1510).
6 and 7. King in a long sleeveless fur-trimmed mantle over tS Messenger with sealed letter. Coat as worn by heralds
the long pleated skirted doublet, close-fitting cap under the (shape of the dalmatica) with embroidered heraldic designs,
beret. Shoes with broad toes. Behind him the squire carry- The staff is the emblem of the messenger.
ing his sword (6) wearing an outer garment which is 14 and 15. Distinguished couple wearing garments similar to”
fastened up at the front. 4 and 10.

aves BURGUNDIAN FASHION. 1425-90.

Top Group Maximilian I) and his betrothed, Maria of Burgundy,
1 and 2. Courtiers about 1470 wearing a long houppelande, daughter of Charles the Bold. 1477. (According toa drawing
i.e. the long ceremonial girdled garment, open in front in the Germanische Museum, Nuremberg). Maximilian
mostly with long sleeves and padded shoulders (mahottres). wearing the houppelande open in front over the laced jacket.
High padded conical caps. Shoes with broad toes, no longer the pointed shoes. Maria
3 and 4. Ladies of the court, in long trailing gowns with high is wearing the well-known Burgundian costume.
girdles and low cut neck. They wear the high Butgundian
Bottom Group
caps (steeple caps) with veils or fine linen kerchiefs forming
an elaborate decoration (3). The under-garment (coffe) can FR Young man (about 1425) in a half-length jacket with skirt,
hardly be seen. consisting of four overlapping pieces which are jagged at
5. Young Burgundian Duke (Charles the Bold) wearing a the edges and embroidered with gold. Out of the sleeves,
medium-length girdled outer coat over the short doublet at the wrists, fall long white jagged linen streamers. The
(pourpoint) with collar and long sleeves. Fur beret with fashion of jagging (i.e. indenting the borders) spread
ostrich feather. especially from Burgundy at the beginning of the 15th cen-
tury. His shoulders are covered by a red velvet cape. He
Centre Group wears a wide-brimmed hat made of material with feathers
6. Queen Charlotte (of Savoy), consort of Louis XII. of and tightly sewn hose on his legs, as well as wooden
France, wearing a Burgundian costume with steeple cap undershoes (cf. plate 50). His hair is cut short round the
(hennin, cf. 9). head giving the impression of a cap.
7. Young courtier wearing long fur-trimmed houppelande open 12s Lady in a long trailing girdled gown. On her head a gold-
in front with low cut neck (cf. 1 and 2). Attached to his bordered piece of cloth, a flat bag fixed on top of the cap
girdle is the bag for alms (auméniére). (similar to the kerchief of Italian peasant woman in modern
8. Duke Philip the Good (died 1467) wearing the costume of times).
the Grand Master of the Order of the Golden Fleece. 'The 13; Man going hawking, wearing the heavy sleeveless hotke
characteristic liripipe is hanging down from the cap. (bellshaped coat) which is slashed open at the sides and
9 and 10. Archduke Maximilian of Austria (later Emperor otnamented with jagging. It is made of velvet and lined

28
 with fur. The gauntlet for hawking, made of stag-leather, has round his shoulders are decorated with armorial designs.
large cuffs. Gaiters round the calves. Pointed shoes. Cap made 15. Young man of rank wearing fur-trimmed hotke with wide
of a bag and a piece of cloth hanging down, both jagged. sleeves fastened on the left shoulder with three jags by means
14. Duke Philip the Good of Burgundy. Padded cap with long of three buttons. When unbottoned the garment can be
liripipe. The ringed mail-coat can be seen at the neck under slipped over the head. The lower part of the legs is covered
the plates of the armour. Fur-trimmed surcoat and cape by a kind of gaiters. Hair cut straight in front (cf. 11).

ITALIAN EARLY RENAISSANCE. r4th Century

Top Group
1 and 2. Italian princes. 1. wearing a long tunic buttoned 11. Lady about 1320 wearing a richly draped outer garment
down the middle and along the sleeves with lined cloak. with wide sleeves over the trailing tunic with buttoned
2. wearing a short close-fitting sleeved doublet with a girdle sleeves and a narrow high collar which is sewn on. Veil-
round the lower part. This short doublet, fashionable in like kerchief.
Burgundy and France since 1380, exposes the long hose. 12 and 13. Man of rank (side and front views) about 1320.
Shoulder mantle buttoned on the right shoulder according Under-garment reaching down to the knees. Right: open
to older fashions. (From the Florentine painting of the mantle with a hood sewn on, decorated with a long liripipe.
Adoration of the Kings, about 1375 to 1400, formerly Berlin,
Bottom Group
Kaiser Friedrich Museum.)
3 and 4. Queen and princess. Back part of the head and the 14-16. Noble ladies about 1340 wearing long trailing gowns
neck covered by the so-called Rise made of linen. Short- with narrow braid trimming around the neck. 15 and 16
sleeved outer garment with ermine trimming over the long- wear an outer garment with wide or hanging sleeves over
sleeved under-garment. (According to a miniature, Naples the long-sleeved under-garment. Over the fine plaited hair
1352). 14 wears a round cap with the ends of the pleated cloth
5 and 6. Lady (6) with servant (5) both wearing a high-girdled standing up, 16 wears a draped veil with lappets.
coloured outer garment with semi-long wide sleeves over 17. Musician (knight) in a long coat (slashed open at the sides)
a longer under-garment. The lady wears a wide cloak over overt a tight-sleeved under-garment. The garland of the
it. (According to Giotto’s frescoes in the Capella dell’ Arena Minnesingers on his head.
at Padua about 1305-8). 18. Young lady of rank wearing a medium-length sleeveless
outer-garment over the long tunic with long and tight-
Centre Group fitting sleeves. Plaits arranged like garlands on the head.
7. Municipal mercenary wearing a short girdled coat with 19, Citizen in a long garment and a shorter outer garment
sleeves and a basinet. (like 18) slit at the sides with a hole for the neck. Cap over
8. Man of rank wearing a cloth hat with the ends of the cloth the linen cap with lappets.
capuccio sticking out. Underneath a white cap covering the 20. Ordinary citizen in a short girdled coat and cap, the cloth
cheeks. Long wide mantle with wide sleeves (the costume ends hanging down.
of learned men) about 1350. 21. Gentleman about 1370 wearing a fastened-up cloth coat
9 and 10. People of rank in a short girdled tight coat with with jagged seam and hood with collar attached on to the
hanging sleeves and a hood which was worn with the liri- coat. According to small sculptures and paintings of the
pipe (originally only worn by lower-class people, in German 14th century, partly according to frescoes of the Campo-
called Guge/) about 1350. santo at Pisa.

ITALIAN EARLY RENAISSANCE about 1425-80. 54

Top Group
1-4. Heralds in short outer garments, some with girdles over 11-15. Group of soldiers. 11 and 14 officers wearing surcoat
a shorter jacket recognizable only by the tight sleeves. (cut like 1 and 2) with short sleeves over the plate armour.
5. Man of rank (king) in a long coat with hanging sleeves, The soldiers in short jackets some with mantles. Helmets;
6. Youth in a short quilted garment with wide sleeves dec- 11 iron hat, 13 conical pointed basinet with chin-strap,
otated with emblems. 14 and 15 flat iron caps. 1-8 from Masaccio’s (Florence)
7 and 8. Youths in dark mantles, on their heads caps made by paintings Birth of the Virgin and Adoration of the Kings.
pieces of cloth wound round the head and with liripipe 11-15 from the Martyrdom of St. Peter and John the Baptist by
according to the fashion of the Burgundian turban caps. the same artist (about 1425). 9 according to Vittore Pisano’s
(called Pisanello) Adoration of the three Kings, 10 according
Centre Group to Domenico Veneziano, both about 1450.
9. Falcon-bearer wearing a girdled mantle slashed open at the
sides which is slipped over the head, so-called giubberello Bottom Group
(cf. fig. 1). 16. Duke of Mantua in a girdled mantle (like 9) over short
10. Very short jacket with sleeves cut wide on top. Outer jacket with slit sleeves. Brimless cap (according to Man-
garment (like 9). tegna’s frescoes in the castle of Mantua about 1475).
 ~

17. Italian knight wearing wide brimmed straw-hat and plate tags (according to Lorenzo da Viterbo’s Marriage of the
armour over the middle part of which the feather or fur- Virgin, fresco 1469).
trimmed surcoat is worn (according to Pisanello’s painting: 20 and 21. Venetian men’s costume made of magnificent
St, Anthony and St. George about 1450). material. 20: Fur-trimmed mantle, ambassador’s chain,
18 and 19. Men’s costume from Viterbo. Fez-like caps with or bracelet. 21: Magnificent richly ornamented pleated coat
without brim, light sleeveless mantle (similar to 9), the one with girdle (giubbone) and hanging sleeves. Large hat with
of the youth on the right is open in front. Slit sleeves with fur-btim. Hair falling down to the shoulders.

NORTHERN ITALY. EARLY RENAISSANCE (1440-90) under the Influence of Burgundian Fashion.
Top Group
1 and 2. Elegant Veronese youths about 1440. 8 and 11 wear the long bell-shaped, fur-lined surcoat (¢abarro)
1. In a simple mantle, the giubberello in the shape of a poncho with open wing-sleeves, partly jagged.
slit at the sides and without girdle. 8. One of the kings, 9 and 11 distinguished companions of this
2. Wearing a short pleated and quilted jacket with wide king.
winglike sleeves. He wears the originally Burgundian cap 9. He wears a half-length jagged outer coat (gimbbone) with
which is made of material draped round the head. (1 and a low belt. On his head the short liripipe (mazocchio).
2 according to Pisanello’s Adoration of the three holy Kings. 10. Herald.
3. A representation of a scholar wearing a white fur beret with
liripipe. Bottom Group
4, Venetian woman about 1470 wearing an outer garment with
12-14. Venetian costume about 1490 (according to Carpaccio’s
slit sleeves, a low neck, double roll cap with veil.
Ursula series, Venice, Academy).
5. Young man with spurs, perhaps a messenger in a short coat
12 and 13. Page and falcon-bearer.
trimmed with bells.
14. Podesta, i. e. burgomaster in a long, wide houppelande with
Centre Group wide fur-lined sleeves.
6-11. Lombard rich ceremonial costume (according to Viv- 15 and 16. Venetian youths, members of a distinguished guild,
arini’s Adoration of the three holy Kings). the Compagnia della Scalza (meaning: stocking), i. e. a sort
6. Groom. of maitre de plaisir: 15 with a short jacket and parti-col-
7. Flautist wearing a jagged mantle (cf. Fig. 1: giubberello) oured hose. 16 wearing a long trailing mantle (according to
overa short brown jacket with parti-coloured hose (mi-parti). Carpaccio’s painting Ze Wonder of the Cross, Venice).

ITALY. EARLY RENAISSANCE. 2350-500

Top Group 7. Gentleman wearing a short-sleeved cloak over a long-
1. Young florentine man about 1350 in a long girdled parti- sleeved garment. Gloves with the cuffs extended to a bag.
coloured robe of former fashion (according to Taddeo Cap made of a roll of material, the ends falling down onto
Gaddi, Florence). the shoulders. According to a painting by Fra Angelico
2. Hooded cloak over a short tunic with low belt. Close about 1450.
fitting hose and pointed shoes. 1370. co. Lady about 1420 wearing a girdled outer garment with long

3. Long hooded cloak fastened by buttons. wide hanging fur-trimmed sleeves. Round cap made of a
4. Cloak with wide sleeves. The hood is attached to a special roll of material over the hair which is arranged in a roll
shoulder cape. The liripipe goes out of fashion before the round the head.
end of the 14th century. 9. Young man of rank about 1420. Girdled outer-garment
5. Head of the hospital at Siena wearing a long robe and a with wide pleated and fur-lined sleeves. Hat decorated with
mantle made of watered silk. Beret (beretto) worn by a feather.
officials. About 1375.
Bottom Group
Centre Group 10. Archer wearing small round cap with feather.
6. Florentine nobleman about 1400 in a cap shaped like a bag 11-14. Venetian youths in different attire.
and a long girdled cloak with wide sleeves. (10-14) according to paintings by Vittore Carpaccio about 1495.

ITALY. EARLY RENAISSANCE. Head-dresses and Hair Styles.

At the courtly time of the innesingers Latin races preferred forehead, sometimes up to the middle of the head in order
fair hair (as had the women of Imperial Rome, who wore to show an egg-like moulded brow was fashionable in the
the imported fair hair of the Germanic women) and this Middle Ages, and was especially brought to perfection in
fashion was still fostered during the Renaissance from the Italy in the 15th century.
14th to the 16th centuries. This is specially apparent in
Venetian portraits of women who took great pains to 1. Woman’s head by Sandro Botticelli with yellow-brown
bleach their hair. Shaving the eyebrows and the hair of the curls and plaits entwined with pearls.
 2. Maddalena Doni, née Strozzi. According to a painting by 7. Young woman. Painting by Domenico Veneziano about
Raphael. J 1458-60.
3. Woman’s head. Painting by Piero della Francesca. 8. Lorenzo de’ Medici, son of Piero (6). After a medal.
4 and 5. Venetian courtesans. Details from a painting by 9. Giuliano de’ Medici, brother of Lorenzo (murdered in
Vittore Carpaccio. Venice about 1505. 1478 by the party of the Pazzi). Painting by Sandro Botticelli.
6. Piero de’ Medici, father of Lorenzo (8), died 1469. After 10. Angelo Doni. Painting by Raphael.
a medal. 11. Self portrait of the Venetian painter Gentile Bellini.

GERMANY IN THE LATE MIDDLE AGES. Costume of Craftsmen and Burghers 58

Top Group
1-7. After drawings from the so-called Mittelalterliche Hausbuch 10-13. People taking part in a ball, the women in long trailing
(mediaeval housebook), an illuminated manuscript in the garments. 10: With long trailing sleeves. 11: With Bur-
possession of the prince of Waldburg-Wolfegg (about 1480). gundian steeple cap; the youths: 12 ina short jacket laced by
1. Copper-smith with turban-cap and wooden under-shoes cords over the low-cut neck, pointed shoes; 13: In a long
under the pointed shoes. skirted coat with a low-cut neck. (After a copperplate by
2. Man of the lower classes wearing a round brimmed hat. Israhel von Meckenem in Westphalia, died 1503.)
3. Woodcarver wearing short sleeveless outer jacket.
Bottom Group
4 and 5. Peasant and peasant woman.
6 and 7. Young distinguished couple. She is wearing a trailing 14. North German peasant with spade and shepherd’s staff.
garment with laced bodice, he has a short shoulder mantl Sickle in his girdle. (According to a Liibeck woodcarving.)
over a short sleeved jacket. . 15. Mercenary with halberd, armour and sallet (vessel-like
helmet). According to a chronicle at Bern about 1485.
Centre Group
3. Wearing a long fur-lined gown open in front (German: 16. Executionetr’s assistant (with wooden logs) wearing pointed
Schaube) and a fur beret. cap. (After woodcarvings by Michael Wohlgemuth.)
4. Distinguished burgher wearing a half length coat with 17. Jew with the yellow ring to mark his race. (According to
skirts and long sleeves wide at the ends. Beret over tight- woodcarvings by Michael Wohlgemuth.)
fitting cap, broad flat shoes. 18. Archer (mercenary) wearing iron hat.

SPAIN IN THE MIDDLE AGES. (Late 13th to 15th Centuries) by

Top Group
1 and 2. Burghers about 1275. Outer-garments with wide white sleeveless outer garment with gold braids. Necklace
three-cornered sleeves with light border decoration. Hooded and earrings. On her head a garland.
shoulder-capes. 9. Court lady wearing a white mantle lined with red material
3. Knight (caballero) about 1300. Shoulder cape with decor- and the borders trimmed with gold braid over a white
ated border. outer-garment. The under-garment is of reddish-violet co-
4. Lightly armed horseman in a sleeveless surcoat without lour. Bleached hair. 8 and 9 about 1300.
girdle. Small leather-covered wooden shield studded with 10. Man of rank about 1400 wearing high pointed hat and fur-
metal. trimmed cloak (houppelande).
5. King about 1350 (Painting in the Alhambra, Granada). 11 and 12. Soldiers about 1400 wearing brigantine and over it a
6. Knight about 1375. Helmet with vizor, ringed coat of mail, leather doublet. Iron gloves, round shield with hollow for
parti-coloured doublet covering the loins and slit open at the fist.
the sides, low-belt made of gold-plated pieces of metal. Botiom Group
Light coloured morocco leather shoes. 13. Rodrigo de Lauria (died 1314).
Centre Group 14. Lady of rank about 1390. Dofia Elvira de Ayala.
7. Knight about 1375. Blue and white turban-cap, red hood 15. Spanish Countess 1353.
with collar and long litipipe, white tight-fitting coat reach- 16. Lady about 1435.
ing to the loins. Low gold-plated girdle, yellow hose, 17. Man of rank about 1430.
shoes like 6. 18. Don Alvara Perez de Guzman, Admiral of the kingdom of
8. Court lady wearing long red gown with blue sleeves and Castile. 1394. (13-18) according to Lconografia Espanola.

GERMANY about ryoo 60

Top Group Centre Group
1 and 2. Huntsmen. 8-13. Peasants at the time of the Peasants’ Revolt 1524-1525
3. Bag-piper. (according to representations by Diirer, H. S. Beham and
4. Nuremberg citizen’s wife others).
5. Young peasant. according to Albrecht Bottom Group
6. Peasant girl. Diirer’s paintings. 14-19. Vagrants (according to Hans Burgkmair’s Triumphzug
7. Old peasant. Kaiser Maximilians (The Triumph of Emperor Maximilian),
 ~

61 ITALY. RENAISSANCE 1520-30. According to Contemporary Paintings

. Picture of a young woman called La Bella by Francesco 3; Italian nobleman. Painting by Moretto, 1526. London, Na-
Mazzuoli, (called Parmigianino), about 1530. Naples Na- tional Gallery.
tional Museum. 4, Woman and child. Painting by Paris Bordone, about 1525.
. Italian nobleman. Painting by Alessandro Bonvicino, called Leningrad, Eremitage.
Moretto da Brescia, about 1525. London, National Gallery.
*

62 GERMANY AT THE TIME OF THE REFORMATION. Head-dress (1500-50)

— . The Emperor Maximilian I. According to Diirer’s painting. be confused with Johann Eck, who had a disputation with
2. The Elector Frederick the Wise of Saxony, 1534. According Luther). Engraving by B. Beham. 1527.
to Direr. rh A 24-year-old member of the Augsburg patrician family of
. Ulrich von Hutten. 1520. the Welsers, painted in 1533.
. Bernhard Knipperdollinck, a draper and one of the heads of
the Anabaptists at Minster, 1534. 8. Sebastian Miinster, the scholar and cosmographer who came
. Duke William IV. of Bavaria, painted in the year of his from Ingelheim and lived in Basle 1489-1552. Painted by
death, 1550. Christian Amberget.
. Leonhard von Eck, 1475-1550, the efficient chancellor and Us Katharina von Bora, who married Luther in 1525. Accord-
statesman of Duke William IV. of Bavaria (He should not ing to Cranach.

63 ENGLAND DURING THE REFORMATION PERIOD. (Heary VIL, 1509-47).

— . Edward, Prince of Wales, son of Jane Seymour, 15 months 4, Jane Seymour 1536. Vienna, Kunsthistorisches Museum.
old. About 1538. New York. Mellon Collection. 1, 2 and 4 paintings by Hans Holbein, the Younger. 3 Paint-
Anne of Cleves, later Queen of England, 1530. Paris, Louvre. ing by an unknown English painter about 1548, in Hol-
. King Edward VI. as a youth, about 1548. Windsor Castle. bein’s style.
(cf. Plate 88).

64 SPANISH FASHION. 1550-80, according to Contemporary Paintings.

= . Philip II. of Spain. Painting by Anthonis Mor. Althorp, a Don Carlos, Infante of Spain (son of Philip II.) Painting by
Lord Spencer’s Collection. Anthonis Mor. Formerly Cassel, Picture Gallery.
. Isabella of Valois, Queen of Spain (third wife of Philip II). 4. The Infante Don Diego of Spain (son of Philip II.) Painting
Painting by Pantoja de la Cruz. Madrid, Prado. by Sanchez Coello. Collection of the Earl of Northbrooke.

65 GERMANY AT THE REFORMATION PERIOD. Citizen’s Costume and Peasants, 110-1550.

1; Scholar of the University of Strasbourg. 1516. 8. Swabian peasant with hooded shoulder cape and short
2 and 3. Scholar with three distinguished students. 1512. pleated skirt. 1521.
4. Peasant 1512. . Mayor, member of a court martial. Upper Rhine. 1512.
5 . Peasant from the Upper Rhine carrying the flag of liberty of . University professor of law. 1549.
the so-called Bundschuhe (laced shoes). 1520.
. Merchant of Augsburg. 1539.
6. Wife of a patrician wearing high cap and pleated mantle
(worn out-of-doors). 1516. . Patrician’s wife from the Electorate of Saxony. 1550.
. Couple, patricians from Minster in Westphalia during a . Horseman (servant from Augsburg). 1539.
wedding-dance. According to Aldegrever’s series of copper . Mercenary officer. 1549.
plates: Wedding-dancers 1538.

66 ITALY. RENAISSANCE. Head-dress and Hair styles (1y00-15

50)

Persons of the Renaissance with the typical head-dress and 6. Venetian woman. According to Paris Bordone (1500-1570).
hair styles as well as the characteristic collar fashions of the ye According to a painting by Girolamo Romanini (Brescia
period.
1485-1566).
. Self-portrait of Raphael (1482-1520)
. According to Sebastiano del Piombo (1483-1547).
NO
8. According to a picture by Lorenzo Lotto. (Venetian painter,
. According to Francesco Franciabigio (Florentine painter about 1480-1556).
1482-1525). 3 Pietro Aretino, famous and notorious author, ruthless
. Lady of the time of the new Duchy of Tuscany. According literary money maker and libertine (1492-1557), came from
to Bronzino (1502-1572). Arezzo, but lived mainly in Venice. According to a painting
. Person of rank according to a painting of northern Italy. by Titian.
 ITALY. EARLY RENAISSANCE 1460-90 67
Top Group leather soles. This striking hose points him out as a member
1-8. Participants in a betrothal celebration (Ferrara?). The of the Compagnia della Calza (Hose company), a group of
women 1-3 wearing sleeveless girdled outer garments over young Venetian noblemen. (According to Gentile Bellini’s
long garments with a low-cut neck and long slightly slit painting of the procession on St. Mark’s square, dated 1496.
sleeves. The betrothed wears her long hair falling down to Venice Academy.)
the knees instead of a veil. The men 5-8 are wearing long
cloaks reaching down to the ground and some of them Botiom Group
girdled and with long hanging sleeves (8) and with a high 14. Italian youth with shield and spear in a girdled fur-edged
collar (7 and 8). The bridegroom (4) has a shorter cloak giubberello with the medium length sleeves attached by
with slit sleeves and a small cap on his half length curled laces. Parti-coloured hose and soft shoes.
hair, with the part over the forehead cut in a fringe. Ac- 15, Ferrara dandy wearing a somewhat longer fur-trimmed
cording to a picture painted by a Ferrara artist between 1460 giubberello with trailing sleeves open at the top over a
and 70. Formerly in the Kaiser Friedrich Museum, Berlin. short jacket buttoned up to the neck. Arrow and hoop in
his hands. (Part of the fresco by Franc. Cossa), about 1470
Centre Group in the Palace, Ferrara.
9-13. Venetians about 1496. 9, 11-13 in long coats with wide 16. Girls’ costume at Ferrara: High-girdled trailing brocade
sleeves (9) or with hanging sleeves (12 and 13) over long- gown with a V-neck. Small cap (From the same fresco).
sleeved tunics most of them buttoned up to the neck. Aas Florentine Patrician woman about 1490 in the géornea, a
Narrow-brimmed stiff hats worn over the tight-fitting caps. sleeveless garment open at the sides and slipped over the
The youth (10) is wearing a short jacket (giubberello) with head. The garment underneath with slit sleeves. Ingeni-
wide inserted sleeves open at the sides over a still shorter ously plaited hair. (According to Domenico Ghirlandaio’s
long-sleeved jacket. Parti-coloured hose (mi-parti) and flat fresco The Visitation at Florence, Santa Maria Novella.)

ITALIAN RENAISSANCE about ry00 68

Top Group
1-8. The Doge of Venice in ceremonial costume with his re- 10. Recruiting officer wearing a turban. Milan 1505.
tinue. 11. Venetian negro as a gondolier.
1 and 3. Retinue of the Doge, 15th century. 12. Youth from Siena. (According to Sodoma).
2. Venetian Jew. 15th century. 13. Venetian about 1505. (According to Giorgione).
4, Cushion-bearer in the Doge’s public procession. About 1500.
5 and 6. Venetian Doge with canopy-bearer in a ceremonial Bottom Group
procession about 1500. 14-16. Young Florentines in short doublets slit in front; long
7 and 8. Trumpeter in the Doge’s procession. The shape of tight-fitting hose, in front cod-piece.
the Doge’s cap (#/ corno ot beretta ducale) was developed from
17. The same. - The fashion of slashed and puffed trousers
the fisherman’s cap (similar to the Phrygian cap) and was
begins to appear.
made of stiff brocade with a crown-like fillet.
18. Young student in a half-length coat fastened up to the low-
Centre Group cut neck.
9. Young man from Padua. 1508. 19. Mercenary officer in parti-coloured costume.

GERMANY wmnder the Influence of Burgundian Fashion (15th Century) 69

Top Group
1. Lady of rank wearing the Burgundian hennin (steeple hat 8. Knight.
draped with veils). 9. Lower Rhenish costume.
2. Girl wearing a brimmed conical hat. 10-12. Gentleman and youths in quilted jackets.
3. Woman wearing hennin divided in the middle. (Bull’s horns
cap.) Bottom Group
4, Girl wearing a wide trailing outer garment (in German 19% Knight in armour.
called Tappert) with wing-like sleeves and a jagged cap.
14, Herald wearing high leather boots. The herald, as an
5. Merchant in a short Jewke with long hanging sleeves and
official messenger, wears the armorial designs and colours
hat made of a thick turban-like roll of material. About 1407.
of his master or his authorities on his coat.
6. Man wearing a knee-length girdled coat with short sleeves
over a long-sleeved short doublet. 15, Man of rank wearing a wide coat (German: Tapper‘).
16. Young knight with falcon.
Centre Group 2, Dandy.
7. Man wearing a tight-fitting jacket with baggy sleeves (in 18. Wife of an innkeeper.
German called Schecke).

33
 7”

70 GERMANY. Mercenaries (1500-40). The Fashion of Slashes

Mercenaries take the place of the technically antiquated long pike, partisan and halberds and straight or S-shaped
knights and form the modern army towards the end of the parrying rod. The superiority of fire-arms soon led to the
15th century. They are recruited from citizens and peasants use of the arquebus and musket.
but partly also from young impoverished knights.
Bottom Group
Top and Centre Group
1-9, The characteristics of the costume are: the parti-coloured 10. Standard-bearer of the town of Basle about 1520.
costume (so-called wi-parti), the slashings on sleeves, 1k Mercenary wearing costume with profuse slashing about
doublet and trousers. The beret is decorated with feathers 1530.
which attained their largest size about 1525-30. Leather La Captain of the mercenaries wearing a long skirted coat and
doublet, mantle thrown round the shoulders, wide, flat a wide beret with feathers.
shoes. About 1520 the costume becomes more conspicuous 13. Mayor of the court-martial about 1530, a man versed in the
with brighter colours; slashes and puffs increase. Weapons: law with the staff of the regiment.

71 GERMANY. Mercenaries (1520-60). The Wide Trunk-hose

Top Group
1 and 2. Executioner’s assistants. 9. Standard-bearer.
3. Executioner or free man with a red feather on his beret. 10. Pikeman.
4. So-called harlot’s sergeant who had to see to the sutler-
women and soldiers’ wives among the camp-followers. Bottom Group
5. His wife, a sutler-woman.
11. Soldier who receives double pay with arquebus. Richly in-
Centre Group cised helmet in the shape of a morion (Marianus).
12, Executioner with a red feather.
6-13. Shows the later costume with the wide bag-like hose
from about 1540 on. 13. Armoured soldier who receives double pay, wearing pointed
6. Provost, the lower police judge and executive. Wide baggy basinet (pear-shaped helmet).
trunk-hose and short Spanish cape. High hat. 14 and 15. Pikemen with the pike (formerly called spear). The
7 and 8. Drummers wearing long wide baggy trunk-hose and soldiers who were armoured and those armed with musket
big hats. ot arquebus were entitled to double pay.

i GERMANY DURING THE REFORMATION PERIOD. (2500-30)

Top Group
1, 3 and 4. Nuremberg middle class women about 1500 ac- cape with the lapel turned up. Characteristic is the girdle
cording to the well-known watercolours by Albrecht with sewing material, keys, knife and fork, pocket, etc.,
Diirer, from the Albertina, Vienna, dated 1500, with the hanging down from it.
characteristic explanations of 1: Thus one goes to church in
Nuremberg; of 2: Thus one walks about at home, of 4: Thus the Bottom Group
Nuremberg women go dancing. No. 2 tepresents (in the same
series of Diirer’s costume studies) a Venetian woman of 9. Young man about 1500 in a short doublet with slashed
1495 who in contradistinction to the Nuremberg women sleeves, a low-cut neck exposing the shirt and laced by
shows the new fashion of northern Italy: short bodice with bands. Slashed breeches, long mantle thrown over the
wide bands across the low-cut neck. The damask under- shoulders. Slightly pointed flat shoes (transition to the
skirt attached to the bodice is covered by a skirt slashed broad shoes), slashed plate-like beret. Long loose hair.
open and fastened by two large buttons over the stomach. 10. Old man of rank wearing the characteristic fur-trimmed
The false sleeves are laced to the bodice and consist of long sleeveless coat (in German: Schaube) over the skirted
several parts exposing the fine pleated blouse. doublet with wide baggy sleeves. Half-length hair with a
Centre Group
fringe (called Kolbe in German). Broad flat shoes.
5-8. Costume of Basle middle-class women about 1530, ac- 11. Man of rank wearing a short fur-trimmed coat (Schaube)
cording to the drawings in Indian ink by Hans Holbein the and cap. Spade beard.
Younger in the museum, Basle. Bodice with long trailing 12. Ceremonial costume of the new Protestant pastors (accor-
skirt falling down in folds. Underneath the bodice-like ding to a picture of Dr. Martin Luther by Lucas Cranach the
blouse and under-skirt. Low cut neck or blouse with pleated Elder). A composition of the black Augustinian cowl and
collar inserted. 7. Long sleeves with puffs, elongated ruffles the gown (Schaube) of the university men (Doctores). Broad
or velvet cuffs round the wrists. 5-7. Wear small white em- soft closed shoes.
broidered caps covering the hair. 8. Has a large beret deco- 13. Patrician horseman about 1530. Short doublet with slashed
rated with feathers over the hair net. 6. Wears over the and puffed sleeves and a skirt attached. Laced leather leg-
low-cut neck the new-fashioned gol/er, a short shoulder gings. Slit shoes. Beret-like cap with peak over eyes.

34
 GERMANY UNDER THE INFLUENCE OF SPANISH FASHION (1550-1600). 73
*
Top Group skirts on a stiff under-skirt and a stiff bodice. Close-fitting
1. Gentleman in Spanish costume about 1595 wearing short cap with ostrich feathers.
padded trunk-hose. 8. Gentleman in dark Spanish costume: a longish coat and
2. Gentleman (1590) wearing long padded breeches. breeches with knee-bands. Tight-fitting soft pointed shoes.
3. Gentleman from Gérlitz (1591) with only slightly padded 1-8 According to original paintings from contemporary
long breeches. genealogical registers formerly in the department of the
Lipperheide costume library of the State Art Library.
Centre Group Bottom Group
4-7. Betrothal ceremony about 1585. 4 in a genuine Spanish 9 and 10. Duke Albrecht V. of Bavaria (1550-1579) and his
costume, 5 wearing breeches according to German fashion consort Duchess Anna in the then new-fashioned Spanish
but with padded jerkin (in German: Gansebauch — goose costume. According to pictures by Hans Mielich, the Ba-
stomach); the old gentleman (7) is dressed according to the varian court painter.
older fashion with German trunk hose and a large bow in 11. Master goldsmith about 1560 wearing the short Spanish
front to hide the cod-piece. But he wears the short Spanish cape and the German trunk-hose as well as a high fur-cap,
cape and high hat instead of a beret. The shoes are still broad. 12. German merchant in German costume; a knee-length coat.
Similar to the shape called cow’s mouth (Kuhmaul) about soft ruff, cap with ear-lappets.
1520-1530. The betrothed (6) is wearing two stiff Spanish 13. German nobleman in Spanish costume.

SPAIN AND PORTUGAL 1300-1540. Spanish Moors, 15th Century 74

Top Group Bottom Group
1-7. Spaniards. 11. Pedro de Mascarenhas (discoverer of the Mascarene Islands)
1. Figure and armour in the Armeria Real (armoury at as a captive in chains. (8-11 according to Manuscripts and
Madrid). old pictures from S. Ruge’s Zeitalter der Entdeckungen.)
Supposed to be Charles V. armour: iron hat, ringed coat 12-18. Spanish Moors of the 15th century.
of mail covered by plate armour, round shield, velvet sur- 12. Huntsman with hunting spear. Cloth coat with sleeves.
coat with skirt and high tight-fitting leather stockings. Hooded cape. Yellow leather shoes over red hose made of
2. A later development of armour as compared with 1(Armeria soft Cordovan leather.
Real). 13. Soldier with iron ringed coat of mail, plate armour, shield
3. Fernando Cortez according to a painting in Madrid. with rounded corners and a straight sword.
4,5, 7. Soldiers of Cortez from contemporary paintings in 14. Man wearing turban wound round the head ina simple way.
Mexico. 15. Upper middle-class citizen wearing a sleeved coat, long
6. Costume of Christopher Columbus. baggy trousers, mantle, soft shoes and turban and carrying
a leather bag.
Centre Group
16. Man with conical embroidered cap.
17. Better class Moorish woman wearing long baggy trousers,
8-11. Portuguese. pleated garment, white mantle and decorated shoes.
8. Vasco da Gama. 18. Common man wearing a garment with half-long sleeves
9. Alfonso d’ Albuquerque. and wide breeches down to the knees. (According to paint-
10. Nuno da Cunha. 1487-1539. ings and sculptured figures in the Alhambra, Granada.)

FRANCE AT THE TIME OF THE RENAISSANCE 1500-75. (Francis I. and Henry Il.) 1.
Top Group Centre Group
1. French court costume about 1505, still under the influence 6 and 7. Ladies at the court of King Francis I, in long trailing
of Italian fashion before 1500 (Charles d’Amboise died outer garments with fur-lining and fur cuffs over the
4511). equally long under-garments with a square-cut neck. Caps
. Costume of French noblemen imitating to some extent the from which falls a piece of cloth.
German mercenaries’ costume but more refined and less . French nobleman about 1550 wearing a knee-length fur-
spectacular as far as the slashing and colours are concerned. trimmed and sleeved coat. Shirt buttoned up to the chin
(Duke Claude de Guise about 1525.) with small ruff. Small beret.
. King Francis I. of France (1515-47) wearing short doublet, . King Anton of Navarra (died 1572, father of the French
short trunk-hose, short girdled fur-trimmed jacket, about King Henry IV.) wearing Spanish costume about 1560.
1538-39. Cape with up-turned collar.
. French nobleman about 1540 wearing a short V-necked 10. King Henry II. of France (1547-59) in Spanish costume.
coat with skirt and elbow length sleeves, in addition short,
padded and slashed trunk-hose and brimmed Spanish hat.
Bottom Group
(Frangois de la Tremouille, died 1541.)
. Scotsman in the bodyguard of Francis I. wearing coat with 11. French citizen in a short mantle with folds (resembling the
skirt, beret and carrying halberd. German Schaube) with the collar turned up.

35
 ~~.

12. French citizen with mantle thrown over his shoulders and 14. Lady in out-door costume with the outer garment draped
padded Spanish cap (called socque). in folds. Tocque (hat) decorated with a long veil.
13. Nobleman with a narrow-brimmed conical hat. 15. Maid of honour of Queen Catherine de Medici, widow of
Henry II. of France.

76 FRANCE. SPANISH FASHION 1560-90 (Charles LX.)

Top Group
1. Chancellor in ceremonial costume (long wide robe with 8. Arquebusier, 1562.
fur-collar i. e. shoulder cape and small stiff beret). 9. Citizen, 1562.
2. King Charles IX. (1560-74) wearing a round carefully 10. Chamber maid from the provinces, district of Saumur. Cap
ironed ruff, short sleeved and padded doublet. Short padded according to the Anjou costume. Outer skirt slit open in
trunk-hose, small Spanish mantle, tocque (a shortened front. The sleeves of the bodice decorated with velvet cuffs.
beret), tight-fitting cotton hose. (Mechanical stocking 11. Wine hawker in Paris 1586 as advertiser for his inn.
knitting was not invented till 1589 by the Englishman
William Lee.) Bottom Group
3. Maid of honour. Conical Spanish hooped petticoat. Overt 42. Street hawker selling shoe polish, Paris 1586, with leather
the hoop arrangement two garments, the outer one open in bag and earthenware jug.
front. Neck ruff, cap-like head gear. ’ 13. Peasant woman from Saumur in outdoor attire. White
4, Officer wearing plate armour over the doublet with hanging petticoat, blue outer garment, black apron.
sleeves. Helmet (Morion) on his head. 14. Peasant from Saumur going to the weekly market.
5. Arquebusier. 15, Servant girl carrying pails of water, Paris 1590.
Centre Group 16. Porter, Paris 1590.
6. Soldier, 1562 with a curved-bladed sword and dagger. 17. Paris citizen weating long cape-like mantle (with velvet
7. Officer, 1562. collar) 1590.

Vi. SPANISH FASHION IN FRANCE. 1575-90 (Henry II.)

Top Group Over the outer garment there is a frill attached covering the
1. King Henry II. (1574-89) in the costume of the Order of hips. Slashed and puffed sleeves.
the Holy Ghost (Saint Esprit) founded by him in 1578. 8. The queen’s page.
2. His consort, Queen Louise. The former conical shape of 9. Footman in livery at the royal court.
female costume now disappears in favour of a more accen- 10. Nobleman’s footman.
tuated waist line. The low-cut neck appears in contradis- 11. Servant or housekeeper out shopping.
tinction to the Spanish fashion. Lace collars are arranged
fan-like round the neck. Bottom Group
3. Courtier with the ribbon and cross of the Order of the
Holy Ghost (Saint Esprit). 12. So-called Mignon in dandy’s costume (one of the feeble and
4, Lawyer with a beret with a pompon in a long gown with effeminate King’s favourites, who surrounded and in-
soft collar. (Go/illa.) fluenced him).
5. Huguenot musketeer. 13. French admiral.
14, Duke Louis of Nevers from the house of Gonzaga.
Centre Group 15. French nobleman.
6-7. Noble ladies about 1500. Barrel-shaped skirts and the 16. Gentilhomme de la Compagnie (Gentleman of the bodyguard,
hoop arrangements (Vertugade or vertugalle) underneath. 1581).

78 ITALY UNDER THE INFLUENCE OF SPANISH FASHION. ryg0-r670

Top Group
1. Roman courtesan. 1590. on the shoulder. The outer garment slashed open in front.
2. Respectable unmarried Venetian woman of rank in out- Feather fan. 1590.
door attire hiding head and part of body. Centre Group
3. Venetian courtesan in a garment made of heavy silk da- 6. Venetian lady. 1610.
mask with a lace collar standing up fan-like and a hand- 7. Old Venetian man of rank. 1610.
kerchief (fazoletio). 8. Venetian gentleman dressed in Spanish fashion. 1610.
4. The same woman (the front part of the dress being re- 9. Venetian lady. Outer garment with hanging sleeves. 1605.
moved) wearing breeches, stockings with gore and stilt- 10. Young Venetian Nobile. 1605 (Spanish fashion).
shoes (wood with leatherwork or painting). These stilt According to costume books of the 16th century.
shoes (xoccoli) were also worn by respectable women. Hait — Bottom Group
arranged in the shape of a half-moon. 11-15. Milan ladies and gentlemen performing court dances.
5. Lady from Ferrara, the short sleeves padded to form a roll 1604.

36
 FRANCE. LATE SPANISH FASHION. 1600-40 (Henry IV. and Marie de Medici) 79
Top Group in different shapes of the Spanish hoop-petticoat, stiff ruff
1. King Henry IV. of France (1589-1610). He never wore the and fan-like high lace collar.
beard called Henriquatre, but a full short beard. Stiff wheel- 8 and 9. Noblemen in the reign of Louis XIII. (1610-43). The
like ruff, trunk-hose. ruff disappears in favour of a flat fine pleated collar. The
. Nobleman with pointed beard, flat collar, perhaps in imita- hair is worn longer. The high horsemen’s riding boots
tion of the collar of the Walloon guards of the 16th century. come into fashion.
Stiff short padded trunk-hose. 10. Citizens about 1610.
. Nobleman with wheel-like ruff, ribbons on knees and shoes,
Bottom Group
slashed bag-like breeches.
11. French nobleman (gentilhomme). 1630.
. Henry IV. ina stiff Spanish hat and short padded trunkhose.
12. The same. 1635.
. Leader of the mercenaries with feather hat, leather doublet
13 and 14. The same 1635-40.
and leggings covering the whole legs.
15 and 16. People of rank in outdoor costume. 1635.
Centre Group (11-16. According to engravings by Abraham Bosse, died
6 and 7. Marie de Medici, wife and widow of Henry IV. shown 1678).

SPAIN ix the 16th and 17th Centuries. (Spanish Fashion from 1540-1660) 30
Top Group brother to Philip II. (the victor in the naval battle of Le-
1-10. Times of Charles V. and Philip IT. (1540-90). panto against the Turks, 1571). According to a painting of
1. Captain of the Spanish infantry. 1572.
2. Spanish soldier. 10. Spanish nobleman and knight of the Order of Santiago (red
3. Armour worn at military parades about 1580. sword on a black mantle).
4. The earlier Spanish costume about 1530 (The Emperor 1-10. According to contemporary pictures and costume of the
Charles V., King of Spain, according to a painting by Armeria Real at Madrid.
Titian about 1533. Madrid, Prado). Bottom Group
5. Spaniard of rank about 1550.
11-13. Time of Philip IV. (1621-65).
Centre Group 11. King Philip IV. of Spain (1621-65) painted 1644.
6. Spanish Queen (Isabella of Valois, third wife of King 12. Infant Balthasar Carlos in hunting costume about 1635.
Philip Il., married in 1559) about 1565. 13. Infant Don Carlos about 1626.
7. King Philip I. of Spain (1555-98) as a young prince, 14. Queen Maria Anna of Austria, second wife of Philip IV.,
according to a painting by Titian 1550-51. painted 1658-60.
8. Lady of rank (the Infanta Isabella Clara Eugenia). 15. Infanta Margareta, about 1660.
9. Don Juan d’ Austria, illegitimate son of Charles V. and half- 11-15. According to paintings by Diego Velasquez (1599-1660).

RUSSIA. 16th and 17th Centuries 31

Top Group
1 and 5. Two warriors of the 16th century. A ringed coat of On her head a narrow pleated cap covered by a fur-cap with
mail strengthened with plates and worn over the tunic. hood.
Helmets with guards over the forehead and with ringed
Centre Group
mail attached (1) used as ear guards (5). Shields made of
6. Boyar in military costume about 1600.
chased metal. Sword, halberd (battle-axe) (1) and mace (5).
7. Tsar wearing in-door costume about 1550.
2 and 4. Boyar women in ceremonial dress from Torzhok.
8 and 9. Boyars, 16th century.
(The Boyars, meaning fighters, were formerly warriors in
10. Boyar, 17th century.
the retinue of princes; later on they became the leading
aristocracy). The garment made of velvet and brocade. The Bottom Group
high head-dress draped with large, fine veils. Torzhok in 11 and 12. Cossack of rank in a coat of honour.
the Government of Tver is a famous centre of embroidery 13. Tsar in coronation robes, with a conical fur-trimmed gold
and lace handicraft. cap to which the small crown is attached.
3. Tsarina (mother of Peter the Great, died 1694) in a gold- 14. Boyar (Prince Repnin).
brocade garment covered by a mantle of fur-trimmed silk. 15. Boyar, 17th century.

POLAND, HUNGARY AND UKRAINE. 16th-17th Centuries 82

Top Group
1. Great hetman, commander-in-chief of the Polish army, 3. Marshall of Lithuania (end of 16th century). Szaba (long
about 1600 (According to a picture of the great hetman coat) taken in at the waist. Ornamental shoes made of
Stanislaus Solkiewski, died 1620). yellow morocco leather. The szuba is usually a fur-lined
2. Young Polish noble lady wearing the national beret. coat with a turn-down collar.

af
 4. Polish nobleman, end of the 17th century. Bekiésche. The decorative fastening by buttons and laces is
5. Heyduck, old Hungarian warrior used to guard the fron- influenced by Hungarian costume.
tiers against the Turks. Later on also the name of Hungarian 10. Polish nobleman.
foot-soldiers and servants of the magnates and town ad- 11 and 12. Magyar couple of rank (end of 17th century).
ministrators.
6. Polish peasant, end of 17th century. Bottom Group

Centre Group 13. Peasant from the Cracow district.

7. Armed Polish nobleman. 14. Polish nobleman.
8. Armed Polish lancer. 15 Peasant girl from the Ukraine.
9. Polish nobleman about 1580. Over his coat he wears the 16 and 17. Peasants from the Ukraine.

83 GERMANY
Reformation and Spanish Fashion as represented in paintings by Lucas Cranach, Father and Son (1514-64)

1. Prince Christian I., son of the Elector August of Saxony, at 4, Margrave George Frederick of Ansbach-Bayreuth, painting
the age of four. Painting by Lucas Cranach the Younger. by Lucas Cranach the Younger. 1564. Formerly Berlin,
1564, Moritzburg near Dresden. State Castles.
2. Prince Alexander, son of the same elector, as a ten-year old 5. Duchess Katharina, consort of Duke Henry the Pious
boy. Painting by Lucas Cranach the Younger. 1564. For- of Saxony. Part of the painting by Lucas Cranach the
metly Dresden Museum. Elder. 1514. Formerly Dresden Gemilde Galerie. Accord-
3. Prince Moritz of Saxony. Painting by Lucas Cranach the ing to photographs in the Kaiser Friedrich Museum,
Elder. 1526. Darmstadt, formerly in the possession of the Berlin.
Great Duke of Hesse.

34 COSTUME OF GERMAN CITIZENS about 1560-80

Top Group 9. Craftsman’s wife from Augsburg.
1. Craftsman’s wife from Dantzig. 10. Daughter of a patrician from Augsburg.
2. Maid-servant from Dantzig using a wooden carrier (cut out 1-10. From Trachtenbuch by Weigel 1577. Woodcuts by Jost
for the neck) with two chains and hooks for the water pails. Amman.
3. Wife of a distinguished citizen from Cologne. Bottom Group
4. Craftsman’s wife from Cologne.
11-13. Men at the age of 20, 30 and 40 years in German Cos-
5. Wife of a distinguished citizen from Liibeck.
tume, i. e. slashed sleeves and trunk-hose about 1560-80.
Centre Group 14. Horse-cart driver from Franconia wearing wide high boots
6. Nuremberg woman with a small Schaube, i. e. shoulder cape. which can either be laced to the doublet or let down. Ac-
7. Nuremberg maid-servant. cording to Amman.
8. Patrician’s wife from Nuremberg going to a wedding. 15. Nuremberg burgher wearing Spanish holiday attire.

85 MILITARY COSTUME. EUROPE. End

of 16th Century
Top Group Centre Group
1. Spanish soldier, 1555. 6. Standard-bearer during the war in the Netherlands with the
2. Musketeer about 1590 with gun-powder bag hanging from fashionable cod piece (padded front part).
the belt. 7. Musketeer.
3. Captain, 1590. 8. Captain.
. Higher officer with gold-inlaid breast plate armour slightly 9. Standard-bearer (6-9) according to engravings by Hendrik
indicating the cod piece (padded front part) without hip Goltzius, Haarlem 1585-87.
plates. 1590.
5. Musketeer with pouch-belt, from which hang wooden Bottom Group
boxes or leather pouches containing ammunition. Light hel- 10-13. French soldiers about 1581.
met (orion). Gun-powder bottle attached to the belt. 1590. 10: Pikeman; 11: Musketeer; 12: Halberdier; 13: Arquebusier.

36 GERMANY. Head-dress (Spanish Fashion) 1550-1600

1. Duke Maurice of Saxony, died 1553. Small beret. Forked 4. Lady with small tocgue over caul.
beard.
5. Duke William of Jiilich, 1566. According to a memorial
. Otto Heinrich, Elector Palatine, died 1559. Painted by
coin. Ruff under the ring collar.
B. Beham.
. Calvin, Geneva Reformer (died 1564). Tight flat beret over 6. Philippine Welser, 1527-1580. High collar and ruff. Paint-
skull cap reaching to the ears. ing in Ambras Castle.

38
 7. The famous goldsmith W. Jamnitzer from Nuremberg, Pointed beard, Spanish hat. Double ruff.
1568 wearing a fur-trimmed high cap. - 10. The French Admiral Coligny. Added to this plate by the
8. Merchant from the Meissen district. According to Jost artist for the sake of comparison.
Amman. Ruff. Long pointed beard. 11-15. Heads from Jost Amman’s woodcuts about 1570-80.
9. William of Orange, the hero of the Netherlands (by birth 16-18. Heads from a woodcut representing the Nuremberg
a German prince of Nassau). According to a painting. rifle association. 1592.

GERMANY, HOLLAND, FRANCE. Costume during the Thirty-Years’ War (about 1630-35) 87

1. and 5. So-called alla modo costume. Germany 1629. Accor- 2. French nobleman greeting someone.
ding to alla-modo pamphlets. 1. How a German gentleman 3. Lady playing the spinet.
Should be dressed. 5. Gentlemen’s alla modo costume and ladies’ 4. Woman from Cologne. 2-4 according to etchings by
oddities. Wenzel Hollar, about 1635-40.

ENGLAND. SPANISH FASHION. (Time ofQueen Elizabeth I., According to Contemporary Paintings ) 88

1. Queen Elizabeth I. of England (1558-1603). Painting by an 3. James I., King of England and Scotland (1603-25). Paint-
unknown artist. Chatsworth. Collection of the Duke of ing by a Flemish master. Madrid. National Museum.
Devonshire. 4. Mary, Queen of Scots (died 1587). Painting by Frederigo
2. King Edward VI. of England (1547-1553). Painting by Zuccaro, Chatsworth, Collection of the Duke of Devon-
Anthonis Mor. Paris, Louvre (cf. plate 63: England at the shire.
Reformation period).

SPANISH COURT COSTUME about 1630-60. According to Paintings by Diego Velasquez 89

1. King Philip IV. 1632-35. London, National Gallery. 3. Prince Balthasar Carlos about 1639. Vienna, Kunsthistori-
2. Infanta Maria, Queen of Hungary. 1630. Formerly Berlin, sches Museum.
Kaiser Friedrich Museum. 4. Infanta Margherita. 1656. Vienna. Kunsthistorisches Mu-
seum.

TURKEY. 16th and 17th Centuries 90)

Top Group
1. Turk of rank with the title of Emir held by all direct descen- 7. Middle class Turkish woman at home. Tarbush with turban.
dants ofMohammed and some others. Kaftan with scarf worn Garment covered by a fine, knee-length outer garment,
as a girdle. Coat with long hanging sleeves. Large turban. scarf used as girdle.
2. Commander-in-chief of the janissaries. Brocade garment 8. Turkish woman of rank at home. Tarbush draped with a
covered by a sleeveless mantle. High pointed cap of the veil, necklaces, woven dress, scarf-girdle, trousers, the
highest dignitaries, with large turban. Braids for lacing the naked feet on high wooden sandals.
outer garments are as much in use in Turkish costume as 9. Arabian merchant.
with that of the neighbouring peoples: Magyars and Poles. 10. Woman of rank from Pera, the residential part occupied by
. Cook. Wide baggy breeches as worn by male and female the Franks (Europeans) in Constantinople.
persons; the coat shortened by tucking up as is done with 1-10. According to Raiss und Schiffahrt in die Tirkey by N. Ni-
the coats of marching troops. Cap with border decoration. colai. 1576.
Medical man (Jew) with ¢arbush, so-called Fez. Bottom Group
. Janissary of the body-guard of the sultan with a high flat-
11. Lady in out-door dress.
topped cap, a piece of cloth hanging down from it at the
12. Woman of the seraglio.
back and large feather decoration; the border over the fore-
13. Turkish lady in in-door attire.
head decorated with a wide gold band.
14. Imam; leader of the prayers in the mosques. Costume: long
Centre Group outer garment and white turban.
6. Turkish woman in out-door costume. Low decorated 15. Wandering dervish, member of the Ca/enderi, a special order
tarbush (Fez). The women’s outfit of this time consists of of the dervishes, which requires ceaseless wandering from
baggy trousers, cotton or silk undergarment and one or their members.
two outer garments. Soft slightly turned-up leather shoes. 11-15. According to pictures of the 17th century.

TURKEY. 17th Century. Costume at the Sultan’s Court represented on Miniatures 91

Top Group
1. Mufti, i. e. judge who studied the secular law and that of chain (similar to the rosary) favoured in the Balkans but
the Koran. ~ only used for distraction.
2. The Sultan’s personal physician having in his left hand a 3. The sultan’s turban-bearer.

39
 4. The sultan’s chief wife. 12. Bread-carrier for the advance guard of the army.
5. Woman smoking a pipe. 13. Officer of the Deli (the word meaning fool; fool-hardy);
Centre Group they were the storm-troops of the armies, mostly stimul-
6. High officer of the archers. ated by opium. (Body-guard of the great viziers.)
7. Archer of the janissaries. 14. Privy Chamberlain of the sultan.
8. Officer of the sipahi or spahi (cavalry).
15. Woman fan-bearer to the mother of the sultan. Her cushion-
9. Officer of the Egyptian-Ottoman troops.
like cap resembles the head-dress of the Turk peoples in
10. Janissary from Barbary (North Africa).
Central Asia. (Mostly according to a Turkish miniature
Bottom Group manuscript of the 17th century, formerly in the Lipperheide
11. Orderly officer of the sultan. department of the Staatliche Kunstbibliothek, Berlin.)

D2 EUROPE. MILITARY COSTUME 1600-50

Top Group
1 and 2. Musketeers, 1609. Over the doublet the bandolier 7. The Elector Johann Georg I. of Saxony. 1631.
(worn from the left shoulder to the right hip) with the 8. The Swedish King Gustavus Adolphus in war costume.
bullets in little wooden boxes. 9. Officer about 1635.
3 and 4. Pikemen. Breast plates with loin-plates attached to 10. High officer, 1632.
them in front.
Bottom Group
5. Captain, 1613 with partisan, the weapon of the pikemen’s
11. Musketeer with forked rest for the arquebus.
officers. Chest and arms protected by armour underneath.
12. Lancer with the old vizor-helmet. 1635.
Brocade doublet with skirts.
13. Cuirassier 1640.
Centre Group 14. Captain 1640.
6. Wallenstein. 15. Dutch captain of the rifle-men with sash and pike. 1648.

93 FRANCE AT THE TIME OF LOUIS XIV. 1650-1700

Top Group
1. Man of rank about 1670 with sword and stick. Large wig, 11. Man of rank in the earlier costume about 1660. High hat.
large felt hat with feathers, neck-cloth (called steenkerke Wide riding boots richly lined with lace.
since 1692). Outer coat justaucorps with large cuffs and 12 and 13. Ladies wearing the costume of about 1680-1700.
galloons. Wide pleated breeches giving the impression of a High stiff cap of frilled linen (fontage) with veil, trailing
skirt, hose decorated with ribbons at the knees. Shoes with outer garment (manteau) with baggy folds at the back, laced
latchets, buckles and red heels. bodice (planchette, German Blankscheit), flounced skirt (12)
2 and 5. Officers. ot with cross stripes (13). The outer garment with semi-
3 and 4. A marshal’s wife ina widow’s costume and her page. long sleeves and linen cuffs opens in front over the skirt.
6. Lady about 1675 in a long trailing outer garment (manteau) 14. Man in a dressing-gown with turban-like night cap.
draped in folds over a trailing under-garment (robe). Wide 15. Louis XIV. about 1700 with a later development of a coat
cut neck with lace trimming. Hat decorated with ribbons. (iustaucorps, cf. 1) with wide cuffs and large pockets. Under-
. King Louis XIV. about 1660. White decorative shirt, short neath a jacket of the same length with sleeves. Large cere-
waistcoat, mantle, short skirt showing lace breeches (Rhine- monial wig (Allonge wig). The large brimmed hat is turned
grave breeches). Buckled shoes. up to form a three-cornered hat.
8. The same about 1670. 16. Duke Philip of Orléans (Monsieur) brother of the king
9 and 10. Men of rank. 1664. (about 1690-1700).

94 FRANCE. REGENCE AND ROCOCO about 1700-40

Theatre and Dancers. 3. Arlecchino, Arlequin, harlequin in coloured-patched attire

Top Group (jacket with sleeves, long trousers, bearded mask).
1-6. According to paintings by Antoine Watteau about 4. Lady of Crispin (from the painting by A. Watteau, L’amour
1710-15. francais).
1 and 2. Pierrots of the Italian Commedia dell’arte (cf. pl. 103) 5. Crispin (Crispino) a French imitation of the harlequin, an
from which the comic characters and buffoons originate. impudent and witty valet, appearing about 1600 for the
Pierrot (or Pierre: stupid Peter) is originally the type of the first time. Black (Spanish) costume with mantle, high
deceived fool. He appears on the stage of the Italian leggings, leather cap, round hat, wide yellow leather belt,
comedy in Paris at the end of the 17th century, adopting the rapier. Title hero of many French comedies, ceasing to
outfit of Pullicinello, (Pulcinella or Polichinelle). appear after 1750.

40
 6. L’indifférent (Who is indifferent to his surroundings; melan- Bottom Group
choly figure on the stage according toa painting by Watteau). 12-17. The moulinet (group-dance). According to the same
Centre Group attist, about 1740.
7-11. The dancer Camargo according to a painting by Nicolas Examples of the shepherd dances and scenes in high society
Lancret, about 1740. of the Rococo.

GERMANY. 1625-75. Citizen’s Costume, partly under French Influence

Top Group
1. Nuremberg merchant, south German costume about 1626. 10. Burgher about 1675.
2. Jew of the same period with the yellow ring, which Jews According to contemporary engravings.
were compelled to have on their coat.
3. South German burgher of the same period in travelling Bottom Group
attire. 11. Augsburg woman in mourning.
4. Man of rank belonging to the social class privileged to wear 12. Artisan’s daughter from Strasbourg in wedding attire.
a sword. Same period. 13. Wife of a physician in Strasbourg wearing a skirt with hip
5. Man of rank from Cologne, about 1630-35. frill.
Centre Group 14. Maid servant from Strasbourg. ’
6. Cart driver about 1650. 15. Citizen’s wife from Strasbourg wearing special costume for
7. Merchant from Hamburg of the same period. the Holy Communion.
8 and 9. Germans of rank. They wear the French petticoat 16. Citizen’s wife from Strasbourg.
breeches (rhinegraves, cf. explanation of plate 97). About 1670. 11-16. According to etchings by Wenzel Hollar about 1640-44.

THE NETHERLANDS AND ENGLAND. 17¢h Century. Contemporary Paintings

1. The family von Hutten; Painting by Cornelis de Vos, Ant- Munich, Alte Pinakothek.
werp about 1610. Formerly Munich, Alte Pinakothek. 3. Portrait of Thomas Wharton. Painting by Anthony van
2. Picture of Helene Fourment (Rubens’ second wife) as a Dyck. Leningrad. Eremitage.
bride. Painting by Peter Paul Rubens. 1630. Formerly

THE NETHERLANDS. 1650-1680, partly under French Influence rai

Top Group been invented by a Rhinegrave of Salm. (The officer No. 6
1-5, Dutch citizen’s costume about 1650-60 according to wears them gathered by a cord and tucked into his wide
paintings by de Keyser, Terborch and Metsu. horseman’s boots).
1. Councillor offering a drink of honour. 8. Lady in out-door garments (draped outer garment with a
2. Member of a rifle-association (or officer) in a short cuirass low stiff bodice).
eating his breakfast. 9. Cavalier bowing and wearing wide baggy breeches (res-
3. Daughter of a distinguished citizen wearing silk dress with embling plus-fours) and shoes with heels.
short cape. Bottom Group
4. Physician dressed in a doctor’s gown.
10 and 11. Female skaters with masks for protecting the skin,
5. Trumpeter of a troop of horsemen.
fur cape and long tube-shaped velvet muffs.
Centre Group 12. Male skater playing ice-hockey.
6-13. Types of Dutch citizens about 1675-80. 13. Cavalier with Rhinegrave breeches (petticoat breeches) and
6. High officer wearing high open boots with heels. wig. Heeled shoes with long, narrow bows. According to
7. Cavalier wearing the Rhinegrave breeches or petticoat the series of engravings by Romeyn de Hooghe: Figures a la
breeches in French called rhingraves, which are said to have mode about 1675-80.

THE NETHERLANDS. Raffs and Collars, Hair and Beard Styles of the 17th Century 98
1. Wide, pleated lace collar falling down over chest and back. went mote or less out of fashion and were only worn by
(According to a picture by Rembrandt 1693). older people. Today they are still worn with the official
2. Cape-like collar trimmed with lace and cut away in front dress of Protestant preachers of some German districts and
exposing the jagged shirt. (According to a Rembrandt the Hamburg senators.
picture of 1644). 4. The Emperor Ferdinand II. about 1625 wearing the wheel
3. Starched wheel collar made of fine linen and crimped with ruff, crop head and small pointed beard.
a crimping iron. (According to a picture by Rembrandt 5. The Elector Maximilian I. of Bavaria about 1635. The large
about 1642). The wheel collars appeared first after the wheel ruff has been replaced by a simple linen collar leaving
middle of the 16th century, at first increasing in size, later the chin free so that a fuller beard can be worn again.
on slowly decreasing in width. They were often worn in 6. King Christian IV. of Denmark about 1640 wearing a plait
two or three layers on top of each other. At about 1630 they of hair hanging down from one side, a short-lived dandy
 aN

fashion originating from the time of the wheel ruff. (Paint- fluence in her way of dressing. (According to an etching by
ing in the palace of Rosenborg, Copenhagen.) W. Hollar.)
7. King Charles I. of England 1632 according to a portrait by 13. Dutch woman showing the hair style of 1660. (According
A. van Dyck. The hair falls down freely and untrimmed and to a painting by Terborch.)
has not assumed the shape of a wig like 17. The beard, too, 14. Dutch woman about 1675 (according to a painting by Ver-
looks natural and little trimmed. meer van Delft.)
8-14. French head-dress and hair styles of the 17th century. 15: Duke Ernst of Mansfeld (about 1625-30). The hair is worn
longer after the disappearance of the wheel ruff.
8. Rubens’ first wife, Isabella Brant (1609-10). She wears a
16. Shows the transition from the stiff crimped wheel ruff to
cap under her hat. This hat, really a male head-dress, was
the simple turn down collar. The shape of the round ruff is
then not usually worn by better class women.
still preserved, but the collar does not fit so tightly round
9 and 10. Mother and daughter (from a painting by Franz Hals the neck and the stiff pleats are abolished. Nevertheless,
about 1645). The mother still wears the wheel ruff, the there are still several ruffs on top of each other. (According
daughter has a soft linen collar with lace, falling down on to a picture by E. Pickenoy 1627.)
breast and shoulders. Lt Bernhard of Weimar about 1635. The hair becomes more
11. Marie Luise of Taxis according to a picture by van Dyck. predominant and longer, the beard smaller.
Hair style influenced by French fashion, about 1630. 18. Starched and crimped wheel ruff consisting of three layers on
12. English woman about 1645 not showing any foreign in- top of each other. (According to a picture by P. Codde 1627.)

08 ENGLAND about 1640. According to etchings by Wenzel Hollar

Top Group
1, 2 and 4. English ladies of rank with low-necked lace turn 6. Wife of the Lord Mayor of London with broad-brimmed
down collars (cf. plate 98: ruffs). Wide pleated skirts (with- high stiff hat and the old-fashioned wide Spanish ruff (a
out farthingales as in the late Spanish fashion). Short jacket sign of her official rank, similar to some ceremonial costume
with skirts and short sleeves with lace cuffs. Feather fan or in England and Hamburg in present times). Laced bodice.
pleated felt fan. . Citizen’s daughter with fastened turn-down collar, > apron
g
. English lady of rank in a winter out-door costume with and linen cap.
outer jacket, hoodlike cap, face mask (worn to protect the
8. Craftsman’s wife.
skin against the weather) and muff. The mask originated in
France and became fashionable not only as a protection but 9. Citizen’s wife (cf. 5) with apron. Wooden sandals under the
also as a sign of good manners and renouncement of vanity shoes as protection against the dirt of the street.
(for instance at church processions); it was much used in
Northern Italy, not only at Carnival. Bottom Group

Centre Group 10, 11, 13, 14. English ladies of rank (14 again with a face
5. Citizen’s wife from London with broad-brimmed soft felt mask).
hat and draped outer skirt. 12. Wife of a rich merchant.

100 FRANCE. Fashions at the Court of Versailles according to Contemporary Engravings, about 1700
Fashions at the court of Versailles after contemporary tume). Coloured mezzotint, Paris about 1695. ’The men wear
engravings. Paris about 1700. the large ceremonial wig, long outer coat (justaucorps) with
1. Dame de qualité en déshabillé (Lady of rank in dressing gown). tich braid trimming and large cuffs, kerchief (steenkerke),
Engraving by Trouvain about 1700. sash, felt hat with turned up brim and feather decoration,
2. Lady and gentleman at court. Mezzotint by J. Gole about ankle shoes with red heels, tight breeches (cwloties). Gored
1700. . stockings. The women ate wearing a high stiff linen cap
3. Frangois Louis, Prince of Bourbon. Engraving by Peter (fontange) and beauty-patches (mouches), a trailing outer
Schenck, Amsterdam about 1700. garment (mantean) over a bell-shaped skirt (robe), small
4. Dame de qualité en habit d’été. (Lady of rank in summer cos- apron, stiff bodice (planchette).

101 FRANCE AT THE TIME OF LOUIS XIV. 1695-1700

Cavaliers and ladies of Paris society. According to engrav- plate demonstrates the costume of the courtiers at Versailles,
ings by Sebastian Le Clerc from the series: Divers costumes which is characterized by the ceremonial wig of the men
francais du Régne de Louis XIV. Paris about 1695-1700. This and the fontange caps of the women.

102 FRANCE. TIME OF THE REGENCE about 1715-20

1-4 and 6. Parisian cavaliers. series Figures de Modes. Paris 1715-20. This plate shows the
5 and 9. Parisian women of rank. transition from the stiff Versailles court dress (about 1700)
7. Woman from Valenciennes. to the more comfortable and natural costume of the time
8. Girl from Paris. Etchings by Antoine Watteau from the of the Régence.

42
 ITALIAN COMEDY IN PARIS about 1730 103
Some of the typical characters of the Italian Impromptu 6. Pantalone (the old comical Venetian merchant).
Theatre (Commedia dell’arte). be Pulcinella Napoletano (Polichinelle), the predecessor of the
circus clown with fat belly and hunchback.
Scaramuccio Napolitano (the bragging coward). 8. Scapino (Scapin) the former Zanne, by Giovanni, the dis-
. Tartaglia (the comical stutterer from Naples). orderly sly servant or peasant lout.
. Dottore (the avaricious, jealous scholar or lawyer). 9, Capitano Espagnole, the boasting Spanish captain. Accord-
. Arlecchino (harlequin). ing to engravings by Joullain in Louis Riccoboni: Histoire
Pierrot (stupid Peter).
ARON du Thédtre Italien. Paris 1728.

HOLLAND AND ENGLAND. ROCOCO about 1740-50 104

1. Dutch smoker’s club. Picture in coloured crayons by Cor- 3. Mariage a la mode (breakfast scene). Painting by William
nelis Troost 1740. The Hague. Picture Gallery. Hogarth 1745. London, National Gallery.
. Family group. Painting by William Hogarth about 1740.
London, National Gallery.

FRANCE AND GERMANY. ROCOCO about 1730-60 105

1. Louis, prince of France (son of Louis XV.). Painting by 3. Madame Adelaide of France, daughter of Louis XV. Paint-
Louis Tocqué about 1739. Paris, Louvre. ing by J. M. Nattier, the Younger. 1745. Paris, Louvre.
. Princess Sophie of Prussia and Margrave William of Bran- 4. Madame de Pompadour. Painting by Frangois Boucher.
denburg Schwedt. Painting by Antoine Pesne. 1734. For- 1757. Paris. Rothschild collection.
merly Berlin, Hohenzollernmuseum.

ITALY. ROCOCO. Venice about 1750 106

= . Preparation for a masked ball. 4, Levée of a Venetian woman of tank. Engravings by
. Dancing lesson. G. Flipart after paintings by Pietro Longhi, Venice about
& . Dressing in the morning.
bo 1750.

FRANCE. ROCOCO. Paris Street Life about 1740 107

(According to Cris de Paris - Paris Street Criers - drawn by Bouchardon, engraved by Caylus)
Top Group
1. Chimney-sweep as street-crier. 9. Dealer in lottery tickets carrying the winning lists with him
2. Copper-smith and tinker from the Auvergne. to attract buyers.
3. Female hawker with fresh walnuts. 10. Woman buying old hats.
4. Tradesman with lanterns. Bottom Group
5. Dealer in hare-skins.
11. Man selling knives and scissors.
Centre Group 12. Itinerant musician with large drum and flute.
6. Man dealing in mouse-traps. 13. Street musician with primitive barrel-organ.
7. Flower seller with bouquets of carnations. 14. Girl with /aterna magica and barrel-organ. (La petite Mar-
8. Female street-sweeper. motte. )

STREET LIFE IN VIENNA AND VENICE. 7770-90 108

1-12. Viennese street life and street-criers about 1775. (Accord- 9. Bay leaf hawker.
ing to Chr. Brand: Kaufruf in Wien. 1775.) 10. Man selling engravings.
Top Group 11. Woman selling hats.
12. Casual worker.
1. Flower girl.
2. Girl selling honey and fruit. Bottom Group
3. Viennese chamber maid.
13-17. Street life in Italy about 1785. (According to Venetian
4. Female lemon vendor.
engravings by Zamponi.)
5. Laundress.
13. Street crier selling fish frutta di mare and candied fruit. He
6. Man carrying cakes.
weats a knitted woollen cap.
7. Man dealing in wooden utensils.
14. Theatre attendant at the Venice theatre.
Centre Group 15 and 16. Rag-picker and buyer of old goods.
8. Jew selling second-hand goods. 17. Street crier.

43
 =

109 FRANCE. LATE ROCOCO. 1776

1. Maternal joy. 4. Taking leave. Engravings by various artists, after drawings
2. The rendezvous in Marly. by J. M. Moreau, the Younger, from the series: Monument
3. The grand toilette. du Costume ,Paris 1776 and following years. State Art Library.

110 ENGLAND. 1770-1800

Top Group 8. The London actress Elizabeth Farren, later the wife of Lord
1. Mrs. Carnach. According to a painting by Reynolds. Derby. According to a picture by Lawrence, 1792, engraved
2. Mrs. Beaufoy. Costume about 1775. According to a paint- by Bartolozzi.
ing by Gainsborough.
3. Mrs. Graham. According to a painting by Gainsborough. Bottom Group
4. The Duchess of Cumberland. 1783. After an engraving.
10-15. English fashions at the court of St. James about 1795 to
Centre Group 1800. According to aquatints by Nikolaus Heideloff in
5-9, English fashions about 1770-95. Gallery of Fashion.

111 FRANCE. LATE ROCOCO. Women’s Hair Styles. 1770-90

After 1750 the flat and graceful hair style gradually rises ships artificial flowers, fruit baskets, cornfields, etc., were
upward so that the towering head-dress reaches its summit fastened on top of the hair.
after 1770. The place of the friseur (who curls the hair) is . Coiffure en bandeau d’amour (love bands) about 1780.
taken by the coiffeur who works the former coiffe (cap) into . Tocque lisse avec trois boucles détachées (Plain tocque with three
the hair (in the shape of ribbons and decorations). detached curls). All.that remained of the original tocque (the
1. Madame Adelaide, daughter of Louis XV. (cf. plate 105). tight fitting beret of the Spanish fashion is the narrow cord).
A transition from the low to the high hair style about . Flérisson avec trois boucles détachées (cf. 8).
1755-60. Hair style with lace cap (coiffe). . Chien couchant avec un pouf (lying dog with a large pad of hair).
. Coiffure en crochets avec une échelle de boucles (with curls arr-
2 and 3. Rising toupets (toupets croissants). Toupet is the name
anged like a ladder).
for the hair style which is attained by combing (brushing)
. Loose floating hair with large brimmed hat, so-called mer-
the hair straight up from the forehead. According to Chodo-
veilleuse about 1795 (cf. plates 116 and 117).
wiecki’s engravings in an almanac.
. Woman’s hair style with Phrygian cap (revolutionary cap).
4. Woman wearing dormeuse (night cap), a large cap worn as 1790. Transition from the artificial to the loose hair style.
a négligé at home or by elderly women about 1780. Négligé . Large felt hat with ostrich feathers on a curly wig, about
meant free and easy attire in contradistinction to grande 1785.
toilette (evening gown). . Queen Marie Antoinette in a high coiffure with turban cap
5. Heérisson (hedgehog) with a coiffe or cap on top. and feathers, about 1780.
6. Coiffure a la belle poulaine (prow of a ship) 1778. Besides such 16. Large dormeuse (cf. 4) on a high coiffure about 1780.

112 GERMANY AND AUSTRIA. China Figures. 1750-75

Costume according to contemporary china figures. 5. Shepherdess (Vienna).
‘6. Cavalier, 1760-65 (Nymphenburg).
1. Ballet dancer, 1760 (China figure from Hochst). 7. Itinerant hawker, 1750 (Meissen).
2. Shepherd and shepherdess (Frankenthal). 8. Huntsman in a nobleman’s service, 1750. Fayence from
3. Dancing girl. 1760 (Hochst). Strasbourg.
4. Viennese woman cutting wood with an axe. 1750-60. 9. Huntsman of rank, 1750 (Meissen).

113 FRANCE. ROCOCO. 1730-75

Top Group
1, Lady wearing the so-called contouche made of taffeta or silk 3. Dancing master 1745 wearing the artificially stiffened coat
(1730) which replaced the outer garment of the evening with a contrasting long stiff waistcoat sticking out. (Accord-
dress (either ~anteau or grande robe) from about 1720. It was ing to a painting by Chardin.)
fitted to the body at the shoulders only and flowed loosely
down over the under-garments with the farthingale Centre Group
(panier). On the back an inserted fold (Watteau fold) ran 4-8. Typical figures of 1755. Gentleman, ladies and two abbés
down from the nape to the seam. (ecclesiastics). The outer garments of the ladies are open in
. Costume of Queen Maria Leszczynska, consort of King front to display the petticoat decorated with frills of delicate
Louis XV. of France. 1747. Rich white silk garment with pleated material. Small white silk or satin slippers. The
gold embroidery, blue velvet ermine-lined coat with gold gentleman with sword and three-cornered cocked hat.
lilies. Folding fan, not open here. (According to a picture (According to an engraving by G. de. St. Aubin.)
by Van Loo.)

44
 Bottom Group two ladies in hoop-petticoats with trailing outer garments
9-13. Scenes from contemporary French representations about and pointed bodice. High-heeled slippers. (From: Promenade
1760-1775. du soir — Evening walk.)
9. Lady’s maid with a tray, chocolate and letters. (From: Le 13: Lady’s maid in a gathered contouche with folds at the back
Bain — the bath). (so-called négligé attire). High-heeled slippers and small cap
10-12. Cavalier with sword and three-cornered cocked hat and (From: The Wakening).

FRANCE. LATE ROCOCO. 1775-8; 114

Top Group Centre Group
1. Lady wearing the wrap-like gathered outer garment with 6. Gentleman in the earlier court dress (justaucorps — cf. France
stiff bodice (the so-called contouche or robe ronde over the about 1700) with rather long waistcoat, two-cornered
short hoop-petticoat), cap tied under the chin on a high cocked hat in his hand and the sword at his left hip.
coiffure. rs Courtier with the three-cornered cocked hat under his left
. Lady wearing hood-like cap, trailing coat and petticoat arm. Silk sash or Bandelier. Stockings with gussets.
without hoops. oe 10. Parisian ladies in indoor dress. High coiffures with caps

. Back view of a lady in a hoop-petticoat and caraco jacket on top. Coat of various lengths over the round or oval
with skirts and short folds on the back. High elaborate hair hoop-petticoat.
style.
Gentleman wearing cloth tailcoat, short waistcoat, breeches Bottom Group
(culottes) and gored stockings. Round semi-stiff flat hat 11- 13. Ladies of the period about 1777-78. .The garments
according to English fashion, lace frill on the front of the decorated with elaborate frills of silk ribbon (in the rococo
shirt (jabot). style) or flower garlands, bows and lace.
. Gentleman in a long riding coat (redingote: derived from the 12. Grande robe about 1780 decorated in the simpler style of
English word) and stiff two-cornered cocked hat, high neck- Louis XVI. Lace ruffles, small upright lace collar in the so-
cloth, 4 and 5 buckle shoes. called Medici-style. Pearl necklace, high coiffure a la victoire.

FRANCE. 1780-89 (Late Rococo) 115

Top Group Centre Group
A. Woman in out-door attire. Cap or bonnet, fastened with a 5. Costume dating May 1786. Coat and waist-coat made of strip-
ribbon. (This head dress was called a /a /aitiére: in the fashion ed velvet. Black silk breeches (cu/ottes), white silk stockings.
of the dairy maid). Fur-trimmed satin wrapper. Hoop- 6. Costume dating May 1786. Riding outfit in imitation of the
petticoat shortened for wearing out of doors, with caraco English riding-coat; in French called redingote. Round Eng-
or polonaise (short jacket) made of the same material. lish hat. Buck-skin breeches. Jack boots.
Example of greater simplicity in the fashion of the country . Costume of November 1785. Outer garment 2 la Lévite
woman or burgher’s wife as a reaction against the over- open in front; at first reaching down to the calves, later
decorated, extravagant court fashion. The muff appeared becoming a trailing garment. It was fastened up over the
about 1680, disappeared during the period of the Revolu- waist by means of bows, buttons or a sash. A fichu over
tion and Empire. under-garment and “vite.
Lady with large hat decorated with ribbons. Long caraco . Costume dating January 1786. Robe a la Turque, the older
overt ankle-length hoop-petticoat. Low neck. ceremonial garment. Large satin hat with ribbons and
. Lady about 1783-84 in a ceremonial costume with large feathers.
hoop-petticoat. Coiffure a la Montgolfier (i. e. named after the . Costume dated December 1785. Déshabillé garment, called
newly invented air balloon). According to an English Pierrot. Decorated cap, fichu (breast kerchief), short caraco
engraving. (skirted jacket). Hoop-petticoat.
Woman wearing the so-called dormeuse (originally night-
cap) fichu (breast kerchief) en marmotte (marmot) short hoop- Bottom Group
petticoat with pol/onaise (jacket) to match. 10-14. Winter costumes 1788-89.

PARIS FASHION. 1790-95. Revolution and Directory 116

. Top Group round silk hat with tricolour ribbons. Short waist-coat with
1. Gentleman in a silk tail-coat 4 /a frangaise 1790. Short waist- hanging down fobs.
coat with fobs hanging down.
2. Lady with a stiff gray silk hat trimmed with silver braid. Centre Group
February 1790. 7. Woman in 1791.
3 and 4. Ladies in December 1790. 8. Woman in July 1792.
5. Woman wearing cap under a round conical hat with 9. Man with open tail-coat, the front of which is partly cut
feathers. September 1791. away, and a round hat. August 1791.
6. Gentleman in a cloth tail-coat with silk waist-coat and 10. Woman in a tricolour costume with cap.

45
 11. Woman wearing silk dress and conical straw hat. 15. Merveilleuse partly suggesting antique pattern. 1795.
12. Woman with skirted jacket, short waist-coat, hat with /ri- 16. Citizeness 1795.
colour ribbon, all in a man’s style. 17 and 18. So-called Muscadins similar to the Jncroyables.
Bottom Group Dandies of the Revolutionary Period. Nouveaux riches and
13 and 14. Man and woman in 1795. (Merveilleuse and Incroyable.) profiteers of the Revolution.

117 FRENCH REVOLUTION, DIRECTORY AND CONSULATE. 12790-1803

Top Group 5-10. Some characteristic hair styles, head-dresses and neck
1. Member of the Paris revolutionary municipal council. cloths.
2. Model costume of the Liberté and the revolutionary women. 5. Charlotte Corday who assassinated Marat.
(According to contemporary patterns of 1792-94). — The 6. Marat.
acute phase of the Revolution ended in July 1794, Ther- 7. Danton.
midor. 8. Henriot, 1783. Commander of the Paris National Guard
3, Official employed at the Temple (the state prison where The cockade fixed to the ship-shaped hat.
among others King Louis XVI. was kept a prisoner till his 9. Robespierre.
execution). 10. Tallien.
Centre Group
Bottom Group
4. Member of the Jacobin Club.
1-4. Wear the Phrygian cap which had been declared an emb- 11 and 12. Ladies wearing antique garments fashionable at the
lem of the people’s government. The Jacobin (4) has a fillet time of the Consulate about 1800. (Mode 4 Ja grecque.)
attached to it with the inscription: surveillance (watching). 13-16. Merveilleuses (women) and Incroyables (men).

118 GERMANY AND FRANCE. Uniforms (1680-1790)

Top Group 6. Royal garde de la porte (guard at the gate) 1757.
1-5. Germany. 7. Officer of the body guard of the royal family. 1745.
1. Musketeer with doublet and pouch belt. 8. Dragoon 1724.
2. Officer about 1685.
Bottom Group
3. Grenadier.
4. Corporal of the infantry. 9. Officer of the Swiss Guards in ordinary uniform. 1757.
5. Musketeer about 1690. 10. Soldier of the French guards in ceremonial uniform. 1757.
11. Officer of the French guards in ordinary uniform. 1757.
Centre Group 12. Staff officer in ordinary uniform.
6-13. France. 13. Corporal of the fusiliers in ceremonial uniform. 1786.

119 ENGLAND AND FRANCE. 1800-30. French Empire and English Regency
Top Group series of engravings in [ucroyables et Merveilleuses by Lanté
1-6. England 1800-1813. after drawings by Horace Vernet.)
1. Man in the national English tail-coat with high top hat, 11. Lady in a bell-shaped flounced petticoat, short Spencer
buck-skin breeches and jack-boots. (After a fashion en- jacket with long sleeves (rather more a blouse without skirts)
graving of 1801.) high lace ruffle round neck. Feathered hat. Fashion en-
2. Lady in ankle-length high-girdled tunic and short sleeves graving. January 1828.
Over a petticoat with bodice. Flat sandals. 1807. 12. Man in a cloth tail-coat (out-door attire). Short waist-coat,
3. Open mantle with stand-up collar. Pot-shaped hat trimmed neck-tie, high top hat with slightly turned up brim, striped
with feather. 1809. trousers tapering towards the ankles, fastened with straps
4. Long outer garment (open at the bottom) over the tunic. under the shoes. May 1823.
Shoulder cape with fringes. 1809. Bottom Group
5. Short bell-shaped garment with jagged seam and a richly
decorated bodice. Low wide neck. 1813. 13. Women wearing a dress fastened up to the neck with long
6. Lady in winter costume. Long cloth garment, short fur- sleeves puffed at the shoulders, high neck ruffle, large sun-
trimmed Spencer jacket with fur collar. Fur muff and hat. bonnet, fur stole. December 1823.
1813. 14. Dandy wearing his tail-coat buttoned up and a wide open
2-6. Repository of Art. London. mantle with flounces round the shoulders. According to a
picture by Ingres. 1823.
Centre Group 15 and 16. Women in 1830.
7-18. Paris Fashion 1814-30. 17 and 18. Well-dressed Parisian couple in 1831.
7-10. Fashionably dressed women 1814-15. (According to the 15-18. According to fashion pictures by Gavarni.
 GERMANY. 787;-35. BIEDERMEIER 120
Top Group Centre Group
1. So-called German costume (Teutsche Tracht) 1815 with a 7 and 8. Men in 1819. Trousers exposing part of the gaiters (7)
wide turned-up collar, puffed sleeves, stiff hat with feathers. or the striped stockings (8).
2. Lady’s riding habit 1816. 9. Woman in 1826.
3. Man wearing riding dress (tail-coat and breeches), with but- 10 and 11. Costume in 1829. Out-door attire.
toned-up leggings. Small top hat with narrow brim. 1815. 12. Lady in evening gown, 1832, with full skirt, ample ribbon
4. Lady wearing evening gown reaching down to the calves decoration. Lace stole. Hair arranged in curls.
and ending in bows. High girdle. Beginning of 1817.
5. Summer dress 1819. Feather hat. Low neck with lace collar. Bottom Group
6. Summer attire. Sun-hat, bell-shaped mantle with long cuffs. 13-17. Fashions at Frankfurt on the Main, November/Decem-
Narrow lace drawers showing beneath the dress. ber 1834. (From: Journal des Dames, Frankfurt/Main.)

EUROPE. Uniforms. 1795-1815. Revolution to the Bourbon Restoration 121

Top Group 11. Russian artillery officer. 1813.
1-7. Prussian military men. 1806-13. 12. Officer of the Austrian riflemen. 1813.
1, Cuirassier in the regiment von Holtzendorf. 1806. 13. Soldier in the Danish body-guard. 1805.
2. Infantry staff officer. 1806. 14. Cossack. 1813.
3. Grenadier of the 1st battalion of the body-guard 1806. Bottom Group
4. Musketeer (drummer) the King’s regiment. 1806.
5. Lancer (uhlan) in the guards. 1810. 15-21. France. Uniforms during the time of Napoleon. 1795 to
6. Fusilier. 1810. 1815.
7. Horseman of the Silesian Cuirassier regiment. 1813. 15. Hussar. 1795.
16. Infantry officer. 1806.
Centre Group 17. Grenadier of the guards. 1813.
8-14. England, Russia, Austria, Denmark. 1802-15. 18. Musketeer. 1806.
8. English sailor. 1814. 19. Foot soldier. 1806.
9. Imperial Russian grenadier. 1802. 20. Sapper. 1813.
10. Russian infantry general. 1813. 21. Foot soldier, 1795.

GERMANY (PRUSSIA). Uniforms. 1730-70. (Py

Top Group (According to an engraving by E. Biick. Nuremberg. Ger-
1. Infantry regiment Furst xu Anhalt-Zerbst (according to an manisches Museum.)
army fecruiting pamphlet about 1740). 6.Soldier of the giant guard of Frederick William I. (Accord-
2. Frederick the Great on horseback (according to D. Chodo- ing to a painting formerly in the Charlottenburg Palace.)
wiecki).
3. Soldier from the infantry regiment Furst zu Anhalt-Zerbst. Bottom Group
7. Hussar regiment von Kleist, 1758-67 (green uniform).
Centre Group 8. First dragoon regiment.
4. Prussian dragoon. 1750. (According to an engraving by 9. Fifth hussar regiment (black uniform with the emblem of
J. M. Probst. Augsburg). the skull on the helmet: Totenkopfhusaren).
5. Cuirassier in billets wearing sleeved waistcoat. Coat and 10. Trumpeter of the 12th cuirassier regiment.
weapons are hung on the wall, cuirass in front of the stool. 11. Grenadier wearing red cap with a tin shield in front.

GERMANY AND FRANCE. LATE ROCOCO, about 1788 WAS,

Women’s and men’s fashions according to engravings by by way of small engravings as early as the seventies of the
Riepenhausen from the Géttingen pocket almanac (G6ttin- 18th century, that is to say some time before the appearance
ger Taschenkalender) 1788. German and French fashions of the fashion papers proper (from 1785 on) with their
as well as stage costumes are shown in these small almanacs coloured fashion plates.

FRANCE. Paris Fashions. 1830-35 124

. Evening cape. Paris, February 1834. 4. Visite. Paris, April 1834. According to coloured lithographs
. Evening dress. Paris, February 1833. by Gavarni from the Journal des gens du monde. 1833-34.
=
WN . March 1834.
 ~

125 FRANCE AND GERMANY. Fashion 1850-60. The Time of the Crinoline

1. Paris fashion, January 1850. Coloured engraving by Compte- a Berlin fashion, March 1858. Steel engraving from Hermann
Calix from Modes Parisiennes. Gersons Modezeitung (Getrson’s fashion paper).
2. Paris fashion, June 1850. Coloured engraving by Compte- 4, Berlin fashion, September 1858. Coloured steel engraving
Calix from Modes Parisiennes. from Herman Gersons Modezeitung (Gerson’s fashion papet).

126 FRANCE AND GERMANY. Fashion 1870-75. The Time of the Tournure.

1. Paris evening gown. November 1873. Coloured lithograph from the LEuropdische Modenzeitung (European Fashion
by Gustave Janet from La Mode Artistique. Paper) Leipzig.
2. Paris racing dress, July 1875. Lithograph by Gustave Janet 4. Women’s fashion in Germany, October 1874. Coloured
from La Mode Artistique. steel engraving from the J/lustrierte Frauenzeitung (Ilus-
3. Men’s fashion in Germany, July 1872. Coloured lithograph trated Women’s Paper) Berlin, Franz Lipperheide.

127 SPAIN. Turn of the 18th and 19th Centuries

Top Group sticks with barbed hooks) into the bull’s skin. Hairbag
1-5. According to paintings by Francisco de Goya (1746 to decorated with red and green ribbons, green jacket with
1828). yellow trimmings, red faja white stockings (cf. plate 130,
1. King Charles III. (died 1788) as a huntsman. Spain, bull fights).
2. Marquesa de Pontejos. About 1785. 13. Alguacil. Official of the Court of Justice. Black attire with
3. The duchess of Alba. About 1793. white collar and gray wig.
4. Self-portrait of the painter Francisco de Goya. About 1795. 14. Abate (abbot). Black attire. A blue and white ribbon round
5. The actress La Tirana. About 1800. his neck. Jabot (frill on the chest) with ruffles round the
Centre Group
wrists. Fobs are hanging down from the waist.
INS) Water vendor wearing red cap (gorra), linen shirt and
6-11. According to designs for tapestries by Goya.
breeches, sandals (a/pargatas). These were also worn by
6 and 7. Peasant and peasant girl. 1787.
soldiers from 1694 onwards. They were made from home-
8. Customs official. 1779.
grown Esparto leaves which were also used for making
9. Young dandy. 1786.
mats, ropes, bags, hats and baskets.
10 and 11. Andalusian gentlemen. 1777.
16. Lower middle class woman in the dress for church festivals.
Bottom Group Bodice decorated with pink and golden bows. White
12. Bandillero who places the bandellera (or little flags, decorated stockings. Red and gold shoes. Silver and gold jewelry.

128 SPAIN. 1810-30

Top Group terranean coast, in antiquity known as Phrygian cap, in the
1, Muleteer from the province of Segovia in Old Castile. French Revolution adopted as the /berty cap).
Sleeveless leather doublet, slashed sleeves, faja (sash). 8. Water vendor from the former kingdom of Valencia
Velvet breeches. Cloth gaiters. Cocked hat. (Eastern Spain).
. Peasant woman from the province of Segovia with spindle 7 and 10. Peasant woman and peasant from Valencia in
in her hand. Linen shirt with black embroidery. Skirted summer costume. 10: Wide breeches, short stockings
jacket with slashed sleeves. Hat similar to 1 and 5. (reaching to the calves). Laced sandals.
. Wine dealer from La Mancha (hilly district in New Castile; 11. Peasant from the same district wearing winter costume with
cf. Don Quixote). Double sleeves, the longer ones laced on capa (mantle with collar).
the shoulder. Coloured piece of cloth sewn on to the elbow Bottom Group
(shown on the sleeve lying on the ground).
LZ, Cart driver from the former kingdom of Murcia (now a
. Peasant woman from La Mancha (cf. 3).
province south of Valencia) with goad (to drive the oxen),
. Peasant from the Alcarria New Castile (east of Madrid).
wide breeches and fringed wrap (manta) resembling a plaid.
Cloth jacket faja, low necked waistcoat, leather girdle with
13. Peasant woman from La Mancha.
pouches.
14. Peasant from Aragon, lightly dressed without jacket or
wrap but with faja, silk head cloth, hemp sandals.
Centre Group
ghey Woman from the mountainous part of Aragon with up-
6. Craftsman from Catalonia, North-Eastern Spain, with wide standing lace collar.
trousers, similar to those worn by German carpen- 16. Dealer from the province of Santander (on the Bay of
ters. Biscay).
7. Fisherman from the Mediterranean coast. The turned-down iy Peasant woman from Asturias. Red head kerchief. Velvet
woollen bag-cap is characteristic (worn all along the Medi- or cloth shawl, wide shirt sleeves gathered at the wrist.

48
 SPAIN. r9th Century 129
Top Group ° from underneath the hats, red sashes (faja) 6: with capa
1. Man from Malaga. (mantle with collar) 7: fringed plaid mantalerezana.
2, 3, 4.and 5. 1810-30. 8. Muleteer with turned up trousers, headcloth, hat (seen from
2. Inn-keeper from the Sierra Morena. Sheep-skin jacket with above, like 6 and 7).
silver fastenings. Cloth trousers with coloured braid. 9. Capa like 6. Drinking can (botijo) to pour the wine into
Leather leggings. Cloth wrapped round the head. the mouth.
3. Wife of a smuggler (contrabandista) from Andalusia. 10. Gipsy king from Granada with bright yellow faa (sash).
Velvet bodice with silver trimmings. Short leather boots. Pointed hat with silver pompons.
4. Manola (coquette) from Madrid, velvet mantilla, embroid- Bottom Group
ered skirt, comb in her hair. 11 and 12. Gipsy women in simple cotton frocks.
5. Manola ot ministral meaning dandy from the lower classes. 13. Woman from the country (Jaen) in Sunday costume. Silk
Madrid. skirt striped apron, printed coloured cloth and wmantilla
fixed to the hair.
Centre Group 14. Lady in a Manila wrap (manton de Manila) pinned together
6 and 7. Andalusian horsemen. Hats with turned up brims on the breast and lace mantilla. Hair ornaments: silver
and small silver tufts. Headcloths falling down at the back combs and live pomegranate blossom.

SPAIN. Bull-fighting (modern) 130

Top Group with a lance. They have to sustain his attacking run in
1. Matador (famous bull-fighter) with richly decorated mantle which usually the (old and worthless) horse falls a victim.
(capa de paséo meaning: ceremonial entrance) cut in a semi- The lance (garrécha) has a short triangular point fixed into
circle with a collar. In fighting this magnificent mantle is a wooden knob in order not to wound the bull seriously
exchanged for a simpler and larger one. but only to excite him. Large grey felt hat with a rosette.
2. Espada (fighter), who has to kill the bull in the third phase. Under the leather trousers iron greaves. Decorative jacket
He incites the animal with the red square cloth (muleta) and without the many tassels of the banderilleros and espadas
kills it with the sword (estogue). (2 and 3).
3. Banderilléro. These banderilleros place their banderillas (rods 8. Assistants of the picadéres. They have to help up the falling
with pointed barbed hooks and tinsel decoration) into the picad6r, while the espadas try to take away the bull.
bull’s neck during the second phase. 9. Picadér with leather outer-trousers reaching to the calves.
4. Torero (bull-fighter) in the capa de paséo (cf. 1). 10. Bull-fighter in walking suit.
5. Torero with capote (the larger fighting cape). Hair style: a Bottom Group
larger false pig-tail is fixed to the smaller natural one.
11-13. Wrapping the silk fa/a (sash) round the waist.
6. Alguacil. (City council servant) who has to maintain order
14. Matador.
in old Spanish costume.
15. Picadér.
Centre Group 16. Torero or Toreadér dressing. The capote (cf. 3) is hanging
7. Picador. The picadéres open the fight by attacking the bull on the wall. The ornamental jacket on the chair.

PORTUGAL from about 1820 to the Present Time 131

Top Group on the high roads. The plaid-like wrap resembles the
1. Peasant about 1820. Spanish manta (cf. plate 129. fig. 7), but without fringes.
2. Woman from one of the provinces in a costume dis- 8. Peasant women from the province of Minho, in northern
playing her country origin, but also her wealth. About Portugal, with many gold ornaments, about 1875.
1820. 9. Carmelite monk.
3. Woman street-vendor selling edible mussels. 10. Country girl in national costume.
4. Woman selling milk in the streets. 11, Old shepherd wearing straw tunic and mantle.
5. Priest. Bottom Group
6. Huntsman selling game. 12 and 13. Costume worn in church from Miranda (province of
Douro).
Centre Group 14. Milk woman from Lisbon.
7. Dealer in animals (the one naked foot is only to demons- 15. Ox driver and (16-17) ordinary people from Lisbon and
trate the footless stockings). The gun carried for security Santarém (on the Tejo).

TLALY. 1800-30 132

Top Group 2. Ordinary woman, dressed up. Genoa.
1-5. Northern Italy about 1800. 3. Woman weaver making striped linen. From the Bisagno
1. Boatman (barcajuolo) in festive costume. valley near Genoa.

49
 4. Muleteer from the Bisagno valley. Bottom Group
5. Dealer selling home-knitted cotton stockings. Genoa. 11-16. Kingdom of the two Sicilies.
Centre Group 11. Peasant woman from Venafro in the Matese Mountains.
6-10. Papal States about 1830. 12. Man from St. Giovanni a Teduccio (between Naples and
6. Woman from the Sabine Mountains. Portici).
7. Chief of a band of brigands. 13. Country policeman (guardacampagna).
8. Brigand from Sonnino (Volscian Mountains). 14. Woman from the Salerno district.
9. Woman from the Volscian Mountains. 15. Woman from Pizzo (South Calabria).
10. Woman from Frascati (Alban Mountains). 16. Woman from the Naples district.

LAG ITALY. 1800-30

Top Group
1. Woman from Lerici, Gulf of Spezia. in Apulia. 9: Peasant from the Naples district. 10: Woman
2. Peasant woman from the mountainous district near Pistoja. from the province of Cosenza in Calabria. 11: Man from
3. Agent dealing in small holdings and market gardening (Dis- the same district.
trict of Florence).
4, Girl from Milan 1810. Bottom Group
5. Ciocciara (inhabitant of the Apennines from Fondi, pro- 12-16. Sardinia. 12: Elderly peasant from Bono (in the interior
vince of Caserta). 1810. of the island of Sardinia). 13 and 14: Man and woman from
6. Girl from Padua. 1810. the district of Nuoro (central Sardinia). 15: Woman from
Centre Group Ploaghe near Sassari (North-west Sardinia). 16: Shepherd
7-11. Southern Italy.7: Calabrian brigand. 8: Man from Lecce from Gallura (most northern part of Sardinia).

134 ITALY. Modern Times

Top Group 9. Shepherd from the Campagna.

1. Girl from Venice. 10. Pifferaro from Calabria.
2. Fisherman from Chioggia near Venice. 11. Woman from the Abruzzi.
3. Woman from Furlo (Friuli).
4 and 5. Peasants from Cascano (Campagna). Bottom Group
6. Woman from the island of Procida near Naples. 12 and 13. Couple from the Cosenza district (Calabria).
14 and 15. Couple from Nicastro (Calabria).
Centre Group 16 and 17. Women from Osilo (near Sassari) in the northern
7 and 8. Costume of the Campagna near Rome. part of Sardinia.

fap ALBANIA

Top Group and broad cartridge-belt.

1 and 2. Dealer in clothes from Tirana in the costume of the 10. Woman of the Malissori tribe from Scutari in the ancient
Pelicares (militia). bell-shaped skirt.
a Mohammedan Albanian (Arnaut) during the time of the 11. Catholic peasant woman from the Elbassan district in
Turkish sovereignty wearing fustanella (cf. plate 139; 12) festival garments.
originally the so-called Albanian shirt which is gathered by
Bottom Group
a band round the hips and falls down in wide folds to the
knees giving the impression of a skirt. (Today a detached 12 and 13. Catholic couple from Scutari.
loin skirt). Sleeved waist-coat under a jacket with hanging 14. Mohammedan girl wearing long baggy trousers and short-
sleeves. Decorated leggings. sleeved jacket.
North Albanian Turk with sleeved waistcoat covered by 15. Arnaut (cf. 3) wearing fustanella (loin-skirt) with double
a short outer jacket and trousers in the Malissori fashion waistcoat, short jacket and hanging sleeves, leather shoes
(cho): with turned up points, leggings all richly embroidered in
. Woman from Prizren (Wilajet Kossowa) in the charac- gold.
teristic long baggy trousers. 16. Albanian woman from Janina in a rich costume. She wears
a blouse of silk gauze with embroidered sleeves; from her
Centre Group hips to her feet large light pink baggy trousers with
6. Man of the Malissori tribe (mountain dweller) with hood embroidery on the stomach, over ita kaftan (anteria —entari)
under the cap. with embroidered hanging sleeves. The outer garment is a
7 and 8. Malissori women. shorter sleeveless kaftan. The fez or tarbush on her head
9. Man of the Malissori tribe with white fez, sleeved jacket decorated with gold cords and tassel.

50
 SOUTHERN SLAVONIA
Top Group
136
1. Christian peasant from Herzegovina. Felt leggings. Double in the Karst along the Adriatic sea on the Lika river, Serbo-
socks. Animal skin shoes laced with leather or straps, made Croatian. North Dalmatia.
of intestines of animals. (Shoes and socks together are . Seressaner (red cloaks). Cavalry regiments established in
called opanken). 1700 among Austrian frontier troops for the purpose of
. Christian peasant woman (from the same district) going to reconnoitring. Red cap, do/man (tight laced jacket), blue or
market. Opanken; open, sleeveless coat. red mantle. Long shot-gun, pistol, dagger like that of the
. Christian man from Herzegovina. Waistcoat with crosswise Turkish police.
decoration under an outer jacket. Felt gaiters and shoes, the 10. Bosnian Turk in a costume richly embroidered with gold,
flat cap with black border and red top (not visible here) wide bag-like trousers tapering from the knees, in the
belongs to the national costume of the Serbs, probably shape of gaiters. These are fastened by hooksand eyes. In his
originating from the Turkish tarbush or fez. Belt used as a belt curved dagger with long hilt (Arabian handschar, now
pocket. obsolete). Pistol and pipe.
Girl from the neighbourhood of Split, formerly Ragusa, HOE Montenegrin in a large sleeved coat open in front (national
Dalmatia. costume), woollen fringed cloak, white felt gaiters and
. Elderly man from the neighbourhood of Split in a richly opanken. The belt holds weapons and utensils.
embroidered sleeved jacket with a waistcoat over it. Bottom Group
. Young man from Split in a richly decorated costume.
Sleeved jacket, gold braided outer waistcoat; wide skirt- 12 and 13. Bosnian Turks.
like trousers and leather trimmed leggings. 14. Peasant from the Serajewo district (Bosnia).
15. Servian peasant girl in festival costume.
Centre Group 16. Bosnian lady.
7 and 8. Women from the Lika (formerly Hungarian district 17. Montenegrin lady.

HUNGARY
13;
Top Group 9 and 10. Men from Lower Hungary.
1, Rich young peasant from the county of Szolnok, Magyar. 11. Gipsy in Magyar costume. Shirt, waistcoat with metal
2. Man from the county of Szolnok, Magyar. buttons, short cape (dolm4ny), close-fitting decorated cloth
3. Farm-servant from the county of Veczprem (district of the trousers of different coloured material, jack-boots with
Balaton Lake and the Bakony Forest, Magyar). sputs.
4. Girl from the county of Veczprem. 12. The same. Laced waistcoat. Longer mantle. Round hat.
a Magyar. Cowherd (gulyds). Linen shirt and wide linen
trousers (gatya). Decorated mantle made of waterproof Bottom Group
wool (szir), large round hat, whip. The bottle is made of
13. Woman from Mezzékewecz.
dried scrotum of a young bull.
14. Man from Mezzékewecz with wide open shirt sleeves and
. Magyar. Peasant with sheepskin cap, decorated sheepskin
wide linen trousers.
coat (bunda) with a more valuable skin hanging down the
“ay 15. Woman from Mezzékewecz.
16. Hungarian cowherd (gulyas, cf. 5).
Centre Group 17. Hungarian horse-herder.
7. Woman servant from the county of Pesth. 18. Hungarian peasant in a long fringed leather cloak falling
8. Slovak linen dealer. down in big folds (suwa).

RUMANIA
138
Top Group 9. Woman from the former military frontier in the Petro-
1. Rumanian from Transylvania. varadin district.
2. Rumanian girl from Transylvania in Sunday dress. 10. Man from the Slovak frontier district.
3. Rumanian girl from Transylvania. 11. Woman from the Banat (the district around Timisoara and
4. Girl from the Hatzecker Valley, Transylvania. south of it) in Rumanian costume. The inhabitants (except-
5. Armed Rumanian from Transylvania. ing the numerous German Swabians in the Banat) are
6. Rumanian girl from Transylvania. partly Rumanians and partly Slovak Serbo-Croats.
12. Man from south-eastern Rumania.
Centre Group
7. Woman from the Marmaros, Carpathian Mountains, north- Bottom Group
eastern Hungary, inhabited by Ruthenians, Slovaks, as well 13. Rumanian peasant woman from Walachia in summer dress.
as by Germans and Magyars. Long sleeved shirt-like tunic (camasha), embroidered with
8. Raftsman on the river Theiss, from the Marmaros, wearing wool and over it the apron in front and behind (catringa).
opanken (laced shoes cf. plate 136). ef 15:

51
 14. Rumanian, leading his bride at the wedding. 16. Rumanian in genuine national costume.
15. Rumanian woman from Walachia. Shirt-like tunic, coloured 17-19. Women from the Bukowina with turned-up apron (17)
girdle, apron in front and behind, kerchief, neck decoration. and woven bag thrown over the shoulder.

io GREECE . Modern Times

Top Group coats with gold braid, cords and large silver fasteners.
1-5. About 1800 (according to Stackelberg’s work). White cotton shirt, knee-length.
1. Albanian. 7. Janissary from Janina in southern Albania (cf. Turkey,
2. Greek woman from the Islands (Island of Mykonos) with modern time) wearing silk scarf wound round his head
a red velvet cap, a piece of gold material with flower patterns fastened in a knot under the chin. Long sleeveless woollen
inserted over the breast, tight white jacket without sleeves. coat, shaggy inside.
Threefold sleeves, knee-length skirt, coloured stockings. 8. Officer from Nauplia. 1825.
Shoes with red heels. 9. Shepherd from Arcadia.
3. Woman from the Athens district. Bottom Group
4 and 5. Women from the Island of Chios. 10, Greek peasant in goatskin mantle.
11. Greek shepherd in sheepskin mantle.
Centre Group 12. Arcadian deputy wearing the fustanella. 1879.
6-9. About 1825-30. 13. Greek woman from Constantinople.
6. Peasant from the Athens district in festival attire. Striped 14. Woman from Lala wearing fur-lined, embroidered leather
silk scarf wound round his head. Two long-sleeved waist- jacket without sleeves.

140 BELGIUM. s9th Century

Top Group 9. Maid servant from Antwerp.

1. Peasant from the Brussels district (Brabant). 10. Milk maid from Bruges.
2. Boy from the Brussels district (Brabant). 11. Woman going to church (Antwerp).
3. Tinker from Brabant. Bottom Group
4. Woman making bobbin-lace from the Bruges district.
12. Fishermen from Blankenberghe (Flanders).
5. Woman from Bruges.
13. The same.
6. Woman from Ostend.
14. Milk maid from the neighbourhood of Ostend.
Centre Group 15. Peasant woman from the neighbourhood of Ostend.
7. Milk maid from Antwerp (Flanders.) 16. Peasant woman from the Ardennes (south-eastern Belgium)
8. Woman selling lace from Antwerp. of Walloon type (dark-haired).

141 FRANCE AND GERMANY. Burgundy, Savoy, Alsace-Lorraine

Top Group 9. Woman from the Swndgan (meaning: South district),

1. Peasant woman from the neighbourhood of Pont-de-Vaux. southern part of Upper-Alsace.
2. Peasant from Bresse (Burgundy). 10. Girl from Schleital on the Lauter river near the border of
3. Citizen from Bresse. the Palatinate (Lower Alsace).
4. Middle class woman from Bresse. Bottom Group
5. Peasant from Savoy. 11 and 12. Costume from Truchtersheim, north-west of Stras-
bourg.
Centre Group
13 and 14. Men from Geispolsheim (south-west of Strasbourg)
6. Girl from the Vosges. in earlier costume.
7. Woman from Lorraine. 15. Man in working dress; loose blue smock from the Schlett-
8. Man from Hunspach, south of Weissenberg (Lower Alsace). stadt district. ;

142 FRANCE. Brittany, Burgundy, Auvergne

Top Group Centre Group
1. Women from Saille near Guérande (Brittany). 6. Girl from the neighbourhood of Riom (Lower Auvergne).
2. Peasant from Yaradey near Ancénis (Brittany). 7. Girl from St.Germain Lebron (Lower Auvergne).
3. Peasant woman from Ch4teau-Briant (Brittany).
8. Girl from St.Germain (Upper Auvergne), with a large de-
corated straw hat.
4. Peasant woman from St. Bonnet (Burgundy). 9. Peasant from Chamaliére (Lower Auvergne).
5. Peasant from Upper Auvergne. 10. Girl from Latour (Lower Auvergne).

52
Bottom Group 13. Woman from Macon (Burgundy) wearing festival attire.
11. Old peasant from Coupiére (Auvergne). . 14. Woman from the former county of La Bresse (Burgundy).
12. Old peasant from the Clermont-Ferrand district (Lower 15. Housekeeper from the Ma4con district (Burgundy). First
Auvergne). half of the 19th century.

FRANCE. Normandy and Brittany 143

Top Group 7 and 8. Peasants from Lambelle (Département Cotes du Nord,
1. Costume from the Granville district. Brittany) in wae attire. ‘ ve
2. Woman from the Caux territory (Département Seine In- 9; Peasant from Pont Abbe (Département Finisterre, former
férieure, former province of Normandy) wearing the old province of Brittany).
eee died cauchois. 10. Man from the Cornouailles district in Brittany (Départe-
3. Costume from St. Valéry en Caux. ment Finisterte).
4. Costume of the Cherbourg district (Département Manche). Bottom Group
5. Costume
: from Crosville near Dieppe (Département Seine 11.Peasant from Quimper
Inférieure, former Normandy). 12.Peasant woman from Carhaix | (Département Finisterre,
13. Peasant from Ploare formerly Brittany)
Centre Group
14. Girl from Morbihan
6. Peasant woman from Vannes (Département Morbihan, 15 and 16. Live stock dealers from Langolan (Montagnes
former Brittany). d’Arrée, Département Finisterre).

FRANCE. Beginning of 19th Century 144

Top Group 10 and 11. Peasant couple from Auvergne.
1. Woman from Harcourt near Caén (Normandy).
2. Costume from Alengon on the Sarthe (Normandy). Bottom Group
3-5. Festival costumes from Pollet. 12. Wernan Gon Nice (Provence):
Centre Group 13. Woman from Macon (Burgundy).
6. Maid servant from Bordeaux (Guyenne). 14. Woman from the district of Limoges.
7. Porter from Bordeaux. 15. Dock worker from Avignon on the Rhone.
8. Woman from Bordeaux selling baked apples. 16. Young woman from the Aure valley (western Pyrenées).
9. Peasant woman from the Dauphiné. 17. Peasant from Savoy.

NETHERLANDS 145
Top Group
1. Young peasant from the Island of Walcheren. COMTOSTONE
2. Woman from Volendam. 6-10. Fishermen from the Island of Marken.
3. Woman from the Island of Hok in the Zuider Zee.
4. Lady from Friesland. BO Nay
5. Fisherman from the Island of Marken. 12-16. Fishermen from Volendam.

SCOTLAND SINCE THE MIDDLE AGES 146

Top Group 9. Soldier’s uniform with the tartan of the Kennedy Clan. End
1. Costume of the MacDougal Clan in the late Middle Ages. of the 18th century.
2. Costume of the June Clan in the late Middle Ages. Armour Bott Group
and shield. 4 10. Man from the Ross Clan, not fully dressed.
3. Costume of the Laurin Clan. 15th century. 4d Aafoher ok the Buchanan Clan:
4. Warrior of the Quaries Clan about 1600. 12 and 13. Woman and boy of the Mattheson Clan. The woman
5. Bagpiper of the Cruimin Clan, 17th century. The medieval in a mote elaborate costume with valuable decorative but-
weapons were used by the Highlanders together with tons on the cuffs. The ends of the plaid are tucked into the
modern ones up to present times. girdle (arisaid).
14. Girl from the Sinclair Clan. Plaid woven from wool and
Centre Group linen pulled over the head.
6. Man of rank of the Robertson Clan about 1670. Clans are small Scottish tribes the members of which claim
7. Man of rank of the McIntosh Clan. Beginning of the 18th a common ancestor. They are led by a traditionally dis-
century. tinguished family. The women’s costume was developed
8. Man of rank of the Ogilvie Clan. Middle of the 18th century. (like the kilt of the men) from a loin-cloth.

53
 ~

147 SWITZERLAND
Top Group 8 and 9. Couple from the canton of Aargau. 1804.
1. Boat-woman from the Lake of Zug. 1824. 10 and 11. Couple from the canton of Fribourg. 1804.
2. Peasant girl from the canton of Vaud (Village of Charnay Bottom Group
near Clarence). 12. Girl from Knonau in the canton of Zurich. Earlier costume.
3. Milk man from the canton of Bern. 13. Canton of Zurich.
4, Peasant woman from the canton of Bern. 14. Canton of St. Gall.
5. Man from the canton of Schaffhausen. 15. Canton of St. Gall.
Centre Group 16. Appenzell, Inner Rhodes, (the catholic half canton near the
6 and 7. Young couple from the canton of Bern. 1804. Sentis).

148 SWITZERLAND
Top Group
Bottom Group
1. Peasant woman from Olten, canton of Solothurn.
2. Bride from Guggisberg, canton of Bern. 11. Girl from Appenzell, Outer Rhodes (the half canton around
3. Girl from Guggisberg in working dress. Herisau and Trogen, where people adhere to the Reformed
4. Woman from the Simmenthal, canton of Bern, going to church).
church. 12. Girl from the canton of Thurgau.
5. Peasant woman from the canton of Lucerne. 13. Girl from the canton of Aargau. Costume of the former
Austrian Fricktal near the Rhine (cf. the costume of Hanau
Centre Group in Baden).
6. Peasant woman from the canton of Unterwalden. 14. Girl from the canton of Zug.
7. Earlier costume from the canton of Schwyz. 15. Peasant woman from the Schachental, in the canton of Uri,
8. Married (German) woman from the canton of Fribourg. in working dress. The so-called Uri-shoe consists of a thick
9. Woman from the canton of Valais. wooden sole with heel, turned up rim, and four slits through
10. Alpine dairy maid from the canton of Ticino (Italian frontier), which leather straps are passed and tied over the instep.

149 GERMANY. North Frisian Islands and Holstein

Top Group 7. Sunday costume from the island of Féhr 1850, closed
1. Costume worn by women going to Holy Communion on bodice (like 8) over sleeved jacket.
the Island of Amrum (17th—18th centuries). 8. Costume from the islands of the Halligen, 1850. Pointed
girl’s cap.
2. Costume worn on the island of Sylt in 1644. Hlanud-dock
9 and 10. Festival costume on the island of Féhr, 1858 and
(white kerchief), St#s¢ (full white linen skirt lined with fur),
later kerchiefs and breast cloths, elaborate silver ornamen-
Kardem (shorter black skirt with low cut bodice). Mittens.
tation. Spencer jackets.
3. Costume worn by Sylt women going to Holy Communion 11. Costume from Heligoland. Small Frisian cap (cf. Holland).
in 1644. The head dress made of cardboard and covered
with embroidered velvet, red cloth garment, fur coat with Bottom Group
cord and metal ornamentation. Ceremonial handkerchief. 12. Costume worn at Holy Communion in the Wilstermark
4. Bride from the island of Sylt (17th century). Head dress ' (Holstein). High wheel cap, laced bodice (like 8). Sleeved
huif with large fringed cloth. Siist (cf. 2), sleeved jacket, jacket. Fur muff.
black woollen outer skirt rolled up to the hips. 13 and 14. Peasants’ costume in the Probstei, Holstein (about
1800-10). The girl in a low-cut bodice, cap with ribbons,
5. Costume at Wyk on the island of Féhr, 1798. Kerchief and
linen blouse, pleated skirt. The man in the old-fashioned
neck scarf. Laced bodice. Spencer jacket. Elaborate breast
citizen’s costume of about 1786. (Long coat, short waist-
ornaments.
coat, striped breeches, buckle shoes.
15. Milk maid in Gliickstadt (Holstein) dressed in the new
Centre Group
Empire fashion.
6. Sunday costume from the island of Féhr, 1800. The ker- 16. Costume from Itzehoe (Holstein). Patterned Spencer jacket
chief (as a protection against the sun) also worn with over blue-striped skirt and apron, carrying a strange basket-
festival costume. like umbrella of wicker work over her head.

150 GERMANY. Pomerania, Mecklenburg, Brandenburg

Top Group
1-4, Fishermen from Monchgut (Island of Rigen). Short 5 and 6. Fishermen’s wives from Ménchgut. 5: Lined conical
jacket, multi-coloured peaked cap, wide open linen trousers. cap with silk ribbons, laced bodice, embroidered breast-
3: Black open cloth trousers; 4: High conical cap over a cloth. Straw-hat over cap with ribbons.
white one.
Centre Group 13 and 14. Mecklenburg. 13: Small straw-hat with blue floating
7-12. Pyritzer Weizacker (Pomerania); striking colours (espe- ribbons. 14: Similar to 8 and 10.
cially blue and red). 7 and 9: Blue silk cap with ribbons hang-
ing down, sleeved jacket, coloured breast cloth, red woollen Bottom Group
stockings with coloured gores, knee-length pleated skirt. 15-17. Peasants from the Kreis Lebus (Mark Brandenburg).
8 and 9. Blue cloth coat, with red lining (resembling the cut of 15: Red coloured ribbon cap over lace cap: 16: Long uni-
uniforms). Buck skin breeches. Silk neck-cloth, black felt form coat, red lined top hat; 17: Bodice with flower
hat with silk ribbons. 11 and 12: Bride and bridegroom pattern, large cotton kerchief, and over it gray-black felt
from the Weizacker. hat. White gathered cotton shoulder frill.

GERMANY. Hanover, Hamburg, Brunswick

Top Group 10-13. Vierlande (district of four parishes) near Hamburg-
1 and 2. Gifhorn on the river Aller, area of Liineburg, small Bergedorf. Costume of the market people. 10 and 11: Red-
black silk cap with spiked bands on top, and round the dish-brown waistcoat and short woollen jacket. Silver
chin, and wide bands falling down the back (cf. 16-18). buttons, top hat.
Large white frill round neck and shoulder (go//er). 12 and 13. Under the straw-hat a black cap with a large striped
3. Gifhorn. Long black cloth coat with red lining. Flat large- pleated bow, called Nessel or Krahe (crow). Elaborate metal
brimmed hat. decoration and embroidery.
4-7. Altes Land (the old country) on the lower Elbe (also cal- Bottom Group
led Cherry Land of Hamburg, area of Stade, Province of
14. Shepherd from the Brunswick countryside. Long white
Hanover.
coat, cocked felt hat, gaiters.
4-6. Small coloured silk cap with broad braid and bow on the
15. Bortfeld near Brunswick. Red cloth waistcoat, short jacket,
left side, the ends of which are floating down. Gold em-
fur cap.
broidered breast front piece, elaborate silver filigree orna-
16. Gross-Denkte near Wolfenbiittel (Brunswick district).
ments (chains and buttons).
Small pointed black silk cap (Eidopp), large stiff frill round
7. Peasant from the O/d Land with waistcoat buttoned up to
the neck, red pleated skirt.
the chin, short coat and peaked cap.
17 and 18. Market women from the village of Bortfeld. Red
Centre Group pleated skirt with green stripe on the border. White blouse
8. Hamburg district. Flat hat with the brim slightly turned up (Goller) with ruffle visible round the neck. Small padded
over a narrow white frilled cap surrounding the face and cap (Eidopp) with four broad bands falling down.
fastened under the chin. 19. Peasant from the village of Bortfeld in a long white linen
9. Osnabriick district. Round Osnabriick cap, flat linen collar. coat with red lining and felt cocked hat.

GERMANY. Westphalia and Schaumburg-Lippe

Top Group 9. Man from Freienhagen in Waldeck. Long double-breasted
1 and 2. Girls from the Osnabriick district. White frilled cap, coat, flat fur cap.
fringed aprons. 10. Girl from the Ravensburg district. Coloured flat-backed
3 and 4. Women from the Miinster district. 3: Red skirt, cloth cap with ribbons, white frill.
covering back, shoulders and breast embroidered with 11 and 12. Couple from Dankersen, district of Minden.
roses, high silk cap, silk belt. 4: Costume worn at Holy 11. High cap, old-fashioned short shoulder cape (Goller).
Communion, embroidered cap, with flat round piece at the
back, flower-patterned blouse. Net shawl draped over Bottom Group
shoulders and breast. —
13 and 14. Women from Schaumburg-Lippe. High caps with
5. Girl from the district of Liibbecke. Flat-backed cap with
satin ribbons, large stiff frill. 14: Biackeburg cap (made of
long ribbons. White frill.
broad ribbons giving the impression of wings). Shoulder
6. Old woman from Hille near Minden. Flat cap with broad
cape, the ends tied round the waist.
ribbons.
15-17. Peasants from Biickeburg. Winged caps, man in white
Centre Group coat and fur cap.
7. Woman from the Porta Westfalica dressed all in black, flat 18. Peasant from Lindhorst (Schaumburg-Lippe). Buttoned-up
cap with ribbons. double-breasted short jacket. Fur cap like 9.
8. Women from the country near the river Ems. Cap with 19. Woman from Biickeburg in a large mantle with flounced
ribbons, shoulder scarf with flower patterns. shoulder cape. Winged cap.

GERMANY. Hesse, Brunswick (Harz Mountains), Thuringia 155

Top Group High caps on the plain hair style. The cap (Sz#/pe) is made
1, Peasant from the Marburg district in working dress. Long of linen embroidered with wool and tied with ribbons
smock of unbleached linen, knitted peaked cap. under the chin exposing the back of the head with the plaits
2 and 3. Girls from the Marburg district. Thick woollen skirts. arranged round the head (fig. 2).
 ™~

4-6. Peasants from the Schwalm (between Alsfeld and Treysa). Bottom Groud
5. Sunday attire with double waistcoat under the jacket and 16. Women from the Harz Mountains. Thick crcular coat with
Sunday
cap (fur cap). stripes arranged at angles, small pointed cap with ribbons.
7 and8. Girls from the Biedenkopf
district. 17. Woman from the Stollberg district in a cotton mantle in
Centre Group
9. Girl from Nenndorf, Rinteln district. 18. Woman from Dannstedt north of Wemigerode. Large cap
10-12. Girls from the Biedenkopf district.
13. Boy from Nenndorf. 19. Woman from Ettersberg near Weimar wearing a cap with
14 and 15. Earlier costume from the Schwalm. Long black ribbons arranged as wings.
buttoned-up coat (Holy Communion coat), long hair, large 20. Shepherd from the Harz Mountains with red-lineddoth
cocked hat (two-pointed). Gaiters. coat decorated with brass buttons.

154 GERMANY. Lasatia and Silesia

Top Groxp
1. Woman from the Spreewald in Sunday attire. Kerchief tied 8. Silesian festival costume. Ankle-length black coat (Holy
in a way to form wing-like lappets. Sleeved jacket. Communion coat), felt top hat.
2. Woman belonging to the Slavic Wends in the Spreewald 9. Costume from Tannhausen (province of Silesia). Saif crépe
wearing festival attire. Large yellow, winged cap with =
ribbons.
3. Man inviting wedding guests from the Spreewald wearing Botiom Grozp
uniform, sash and two-pointed cocked hat. 10. Costume from Tannhausen. Cotton cap with wide floating
4. Protestant woman belonging to the Wends from Hoyers- ribbons.
werda (Liegnitz district) singing Easter songs and dressed 11. Neuland near Neisse (Upper Silesia). Cap with long lappets
in Sunday service clothes with a white fillet over the cap hanging down at the sides (Barthaube: beard cap), Spencer
decorated with ribbons (according to a photograph by jacket with flower pattern.
H. Retzlaf). 12 and 13. Upper Silesian winter costume (festival garments).
Centre Group 12: Sleeved jacket, shoulder collar; 13: Long coat reach-
5. Wohlau costume } both with cap decorated ing down to the calves, high fur cap.
6. Liegnitz costume J with ribbons and breast doth. 14. Costume from Czarmowanz (Upper Silesia). Woollen
7. Festival attire from Hennersdorf (Troppau district) wheel- pleated skirt with different coloured border, low necked
like cap. bodice, red kerchief with flower pattern.

155 GERMANY. Bavaria: Franconia, Upper Bavaria

Top Group
15. Franconia (1800-25). 1 and 2: Nuremberg district (central 9: Aichach. Large silk kerchief, coloured breast cloth, high,
Franconia). 1: Fur cap worn over 2 cap with ear-flaps. Cloth
for protection against the rain. 2: Broad-brimmed felt hat, 10: Starnberg near Munich Long coat with standing-up
ted waistcoat, knee-length coat. 3: Gochsheim near Wiirz- collarand cuffs.
burg (Lower Franconia), Franconian cap with ribbons, Bottom Group
cloth for protection against the rain carried over her arm. 11-17, 11 and 12: Bayzischzell Festival attire with chains and
4: Geldersheim near Schweinfurt (Lower Franconia), large pendants on the bodice (Gescheér), coloured breast doth,
linen kerchief with pointed lappets on her head, pleated silk apron. Flat felt hat with gold cords. 13: Peasant woman
woollen skirt 5: Lower Franconian peasant wearing a from Seefeld. 14 and 15: Schliersee. Short jacket of coarse
short jacket over an open waistcoat. Fur cap. woollen waterproof doth with horn buttons. Buckskin
breeches (Wichs) knee-length stockings (Loferlz), nailed
Centre Group boots, green velour hat, with pressed-in top. 16: Berchtes-
6-10. Upper Bavaria. Peasant from Dachau with chestcloth and gaden. 17: Jachenau (tributary of the Isar) district Longish
cloth jacket. 7: Citizen’s daughter from Dachau with orna- woollen jacket with green cuffs, green waistcoat with metal
mented bodice. 8: Peasant woman from Dachau. Short and buttons, white gored stockings, conical felt hat with silk
heavy skirt (Bollenrock). Draped net cap; short
stiff bodice, cord.

156 GERMANY. Bada

Top Group 3-5. From the former county of Hauenstein, southern Black
1 and 2. Peasant couple from Hornberg in the Black Forest. Forest, about 1825. One of the most ancient costumes of
1: Red chest doth; 2: Shoulder wrap (Goller) with laced all Germany. 3 and 5: Open shoulder wrap (Goléer) plait.
bodice, straw hat with woollen rosettes. 4: Sleeveless pullover shirt with frill, wide breeches.
 6. Girl from the higher part of the Southern Black Forest 11. Gutach valley (Black Forest). Long coat, lined red, over
about 1825. Laced bodice, open go//er. Straw top hat. P an open waistcoat.
Bottom Group
Centre Group
12. St. Margen (Black Forest). Curved hat (Schnapphut).
7 and 8. Girl and woman from the Prech valley, Black Forest. 13. Girl from the Gutach valley. Hat with round woollen
Gaily coloured costume. High straw top hats, varnished pompons (Bollenhut) over the cap; woman wearing black
yellow. pompons. Goller of coloured silk round the neck (cf. 15).
9. Peasant from the Hanau district (Rhine Valley). Cap made 14. St. Georgen. Swabian cap with embroidered top (P/étz).
of otter’s skin, pullover, shirt with standing-up collar. 15. Gutach valley. Gutach cap with short net veil.
Black cloth coat. 16. Peasant’s daughter from the Lehnsgericht with coloured
10. Kinzig valley. Long red-lined coat, short red waistcoat, garland crown (Schappelkrone; Schéppel: obsolete word for
round felt hat. chaplet).

GERMANY. Wairtemberg
Top Group 8. Small flat black leather cap (Schmeerkapli), long white
1. Near Ochsenhausen (South-eastern Wiirtemberg). Green linen coat, red cloth waistcoat, leather trousers.
waistcoat, green jacket, broad-brimmed round hat. 9. Echterdingen (south of Stuttgart). Simple Swabian cap
2. Neat Géppingen. Pointed gauze cap, breast cloth, sleeved with small point and cheek lappets.
jacket. 10 and 11. Bride and bridegroom from Lossburg (Black Forest).
3. Filstal (south of Hohenstaufen). Long blue coat, long red Bottom Group
waistcoat, leather breeches, large flat hat. 12 and 13. Rottweil. Wheel-like head dress (Radliskappe) em-
4. Near Tubingen. Gauze cap, gold ornamented goller round broidered with metal threads, the wheel-like arrangement
the neck, laced bodice. fixed on a wire frame, and four large ribbons hanging down
5 and 6. Near Ebingen, north of the river Danube. Festival the back. Velvet jacket with puffed sleeves.
attire. The bride is wearing a gold crown, low cut jacket, 14. Peasant from Betzingen in a red waistcoat and peaked cap.
laced bodice; 6: Long coat, lined blue, slouched hat. 15. Schwenningen at the source of the Neckar. Round black
damask cap with ribbons, black silk bodice (Leibli), a
Centre Group
pointed piece inserted in front, white linen collar with
7 and 8. Betzingen near Reutlingen (near to the Swabian Alb). small frill.
7. Small round cap (Kugelkapli), red laced bodice with green 16. Peasant from Betzingen in blue coat (for going to church).
ribbons, pleated skirt with gold braid. High felt hat, red waistcoat.

AUSTRIA. Carinthia, Styria, Salzburg, Vorarlberg, Upper Austria, Lower Austria

Top Group 7. Costume from the Tulln district (Lower Austria).
1. Costume in the Gail valley, Carinthia. White pleated cap 8 and 9. Elderly couple from Zell am See, near Salzburg, about
(Petscha). Blouse with baggy sleeves, closed bodice, small 1900. High top hats.
chest cloth, short woollen skirt, apron, knitted cotton 10. Styrian woman from Graz (Styria).
stockings.
2. Costume worn at Ischl (Upper Austria). Linz golden cap, Bottom Group
hemispherical in shape with a high wing made of gold
brocade. 11. Woman from Bludenz (Vorarlberg) in a pleated skirt,
3. Costume worn at Linz (Upper Austria). Linz golden cap. reaching up to the arms and large beaver skin cap.
4. Costume worn at Lambach (Salzburg Alps). Broad leather 12. Woman from Montafon (Vorarlberg) in a high cap of gold
belt, broad brimmed top hat, riding boots made of Russia material (Schabbale).
leather. 13. Girl from the upper Lech valley in a costume for attending
5. Costume worn near Klagenfurt (Carinthia). Flat man’s hat church with a high stiff cap and long open mantle.
worn over kerchief. 14 and 15. Couple from the upper Lech valley in an old-
fashioned costume of the 18th century.
Centre Group ‘ 16. Girl from the Otztal (Tyrol) with lace collar and blue-black
6. Costume worn at Seewiesen (Styria). round pointed woollen cap.

AUSTRIA AND ITALY. About 1800-1850 (Tyrol) 159

Top Group skirts, blue aprons, knee-length sleeved jackets, short
1 and 2. Bruneck district, Italian southern Tyrol, Pustertal. stockings (covering the calves). 4: Broad-brimmed felt hat
1: Short pleated skirt, sleeved jacket. 2: Broad-brimmed felt with silk cord and tassels. Red chest cloth (Brastfleck).
hat, chest cloth (Brastfleck), short jacket. Embroidered leather belt, buckskin breeches, woollen
3-5. Zillertal. 3 and 5: Man’s hat like 4. Long black pleated jacket.
 ~*~

6 and 7. Bregenz Forest. 6: Top hat like 7. 7: Felt top-hat. Coat Bottom Group
with skirts, red waistcoat, embroidered leather belt. 13. Kastelruth (Grédenertal, Italian southern Tyrol). Large
Centre Group broad-brimmed hat, pleated wheel collar.
8 and 9. Pustertal. 8, 9 and 11 hats like 4. 14 and 15. District of Bolzano (Italian southern Tyrol).
10 and 11. Otztal (Tyrol). 10: Broad brimmed flat hat. 15: Picqué hat with waved brim.
12. Brenner Pass. The characteristic large conical beaverskin 16 and 17. Pfafflar (Vorarlberg). 17: high fur cap, stockings
cap. covering the calves only.

160 DENMARK. About 1800

Top Group 8. Peasant woman from the south of the Island of Zealand
1. Woman from Skovshoved, on the Sound north of Copen- wearing winter clothes.
hagen. 9. Woman from Dragér on the Island of Amager, dressed for
2. Woman from Tarmby on the Island of Amager near Co- church.
penhagen; dressed for church. 10. Peasant from Zealand, Copenhagen district.
3 and 4. Man and woman from Kragerup. 11. Peasant from Zealand, district of Kjége.
5. Woman from Zealand on her way to milk cows. Bottom Group
12. Peasant from Roskilde.
Centre Group 13. Girl from Amager, on her way to market in Copenhagen.
6. Woman from Amager descending from Dutch settlers, 14 and 15. Mourners from the Dutch village on the Island of
going to church. Amager. 14: Winter clothes. 15: Summer clothes.
7. Young man from Amager. 16. Peasant from Amager, in winter attire.

161 DENMARK. Modern Times

Top Group 8. Woman from the small Island of Dreid, south of Fiinen.
1 and 2. Man and woman from the Island of Amager near 9. Girl from the Ringkjébing district (western Jutland).
Copenhagen. 10. Woman from Iceland.
3. Man from the small Island of Lyé between Fiinen and 11. Woman from southern Jutland.
Alsen. Bottom Group
4, Farmer from Hedebo.
12 and 13. Woman and girl from the Island of Fané.
5. Woman from the Island of Fiinen.
14. Peasant woman from Skovshoved near Copenhagen.
Centre Group 15. Peasant woman from Agger.
6 and 7. Man and woman from Refsnas (north-west Zealand). 16. Girl from the Island of Bornholm.

162 SWEDEN
Top Group
1-5. Lapps in Sweden. 1 and 2: Man and woman in winter go frequently to town to work (servants, green-grocers,
clothes; 3: Hunting attire; 4and 5: Woman carrying a cradle ferry-boat rowers, charwomen, etc.). Characteristics are
on her back; underneath: summer boots. the conical cap and the horizontal stripes on the apron (10).
Centre Group Bottom Group
6. Woman from Mora on the Siljan lake (Dalarne). 11. Woman from Ystad (Scania, Skane).
7. Hawker from Leksand (south bank of the Siljan lake). 12. Woman from Jerrestad (Scania, Skane) in a costume for-
8. Woman from Jerrestad (Scania, Skane). merly worn by a woman for going to church after childbirth.
9. Woman from Wingaker, S6dermanland. 13. Peasant from Jarbo, Gestrikland (west of Gefle).
10. Dalkulle, i. e. girl from Dalarne (Rattwik on the Siljan lake) 14. Woman from Wingaker (cf. 9).
in winter clothes. 15. Woman making hay from Scania in the most ancient Ger-
The national costume of Dalarne (cf. fig. 6) is the best pre- manic tunic (sark, Old Norse: serkr) with breast slit and in
served and best known in Sweden, as the Dalkulle people multi-coloured girdle, worn not later than about 1840.

163 NORWAY
Top Group Centre Group
1-6. Norwegian Lapps in summer costume (Northern Nor- 7. Fishermen from the Bergen district.
way). 8. Girl from the Hardanger Fjord.
1 and 2. Lapp settlers from Karasjok, district of Troms6. 9. Bride from the Jérund Fjord (south of Aalesund).
3, 4, 6. Nomadic Lapps, reindeer breeders. 10. Peasant from Hitterdal (Telemark).
5. A Lapp beauty. 11. Girl from Numedal.
Bottom Group 14. Girl from Satersdalen (south Norway) in a costume already
12. Peasant from Satersdalen, southern Norway. “ worn during the Old Norse bronze period (pleated skirt up
13. Peasant from Hitterdal (southern Norway) in overalls for to the arm-pits, girdle, sleeved jacket fastened in front).
working. 15 and 16. Costume worn in Telemark.

BOHEMIA, MORAVIA, SLOVAKIA 164

Top Group
1. German speaking Bohemian from the district of Pilsen. 8. Moravian girl from the Eisgrub district. German costume.
2. Man from the Pilsen district. 9 and 10. Slovakian bride and bridegroom.
3. Bohemian.
11. Peasant from the Zemplin district.
4. Man from the district of Eger.
5. Woman from the Pilsen district. Bottom Group
6. Woman from the district of Pilsen. 12. Slovakian peasant woman.
Centre Group 13. Farm labourer from the Pressburg district (Slovakia).
7. Moravian woman from the south eastern part of the 14 and 15. Couple from the Zips (district of the High Tatra).
country, of Slav descent. White short skirt (fertoch), really The man wears laced shoes (thick natural leather fixed round
a broad pleated apron fastened in front where it is covered the foot and laced, a very old form of footwear, especially
by a second apron. Blouse with sleeves (rukavce), low cut in Croatian, Dalmatian and Rumanian districts and still
bodice ornamented with braids (/adik), coloured kerchief worn in modern times).
(so-called Leipzig kerchief). 16. Peasant from Trencin.

POLAND 165
Top Group
9. Peasant from the same district.
1-7. Peasants from Galicia.
10. Peasant girl dressed for a festival.
1-3. Peasants from the Cracow district. 2: Wearing an em-
11. Servant to a noble family.
broidered shoulder cape.
12. Coachman to a noble family.
4. Girl from Lobzow.
5. Peasant from the Cracow district. Bottom Group
6 and 7. Goralians (mountain dwellers of the Beskiden).
13. Peasant woman from Lubelskj with a spinning wheel.
6: Boy making wire nets to protect earthenware vessels
14. Man from the government of Warsaw.
(pot knitter).
15. Young man from the same district.
Centre Group 16. Peasant from the government of Radom.
8. Peasant woman from Lowicz (district of Warsaw) wearing 17. Peasant woman from Lowicz (government of Warsaw) in
a mantle. festival attire.

RUSSIA. 19th Century 166

Top Group golian race inhabit mostly the country south of the lower
1 and 2. Village elder with his wife. Volga, i. e. north-west of the Caspian sea).
3. Greek-orthodox monk. Bottom Group
4. Hackney-coachman (iswoschtschik) in a padded costume
11-15. Volga Finns (west of the middle part of the Volga).
(also worn in summer).
11: Woman from the Chuvash Mountains (Chuvash people
5. Young Great Russian peasant.
cf. Mordvinians).
Centre Group 12 and 13. Votiak women belonging to the Finnish stock, the
6. Peasant woman from the Tula district at the well. greatest part of them living in the district of Perm. 14: Ersa-
7. Peasant woman from the Moscow district. Mordvinians from Arsatov (Government of Simbirsk-
8. Great Russian porter. Ulyanovsk). 15: Moksha-Mordvinian woman from the
9. Peasant woman from Serkonkoff. Government of Penza. (The Mordvinians and Chuvash
10. Kalmuck merchant. The Kalmucks (belonging to the Mon- people belong to the Bulgarian family of the Finns).

EUROPEAN RUSSIA 167

Great Russians (Muscovites), the Slav inhabitants of the northern districts of Russia from the Ural
to as far as Smolensk and the Plipsi Lake
in the west, in the south as far as Kazan and beyond Nizhni-Novgetod, Koslov and Orel, also havesettled in the district of the lower Volga,
the Crimea and the greater part of Siberia. - The White Russians, (the smallest of the three European
main tribes) live in the western part bor-
dering on Lithuania (till 1772 under Polish rule, therefore inhabited by a certain number of Jews).
— Little Russians really means subject to
the Great Russians, today called Ukrainians. They live in Volhynia, Podolia and on either side of the
Dnieper. The Ukrainians have kept their
face purer and preserved their customs more than the rest of the Russian population. The Ruthenians in East Galicia and in districts bor-
dering on Hungary belong to the Ukrainians.

a9
 Top Group 8: Old Ukrainian. 9: Ukrainian woman in festive attire.
1-4. Great Russians. 1: Great Russian woman. 10: Young Ukrainian.
2. Woman from Nizhni-Novgerod (Volga) and 3: Woman
from Archangel. Bottom Group
4. Woman from Orel.
gk Don Cossack about 1813.
5. White Russian.
12. Country postillon (jamtschik).
Centre Group 13 and 14. Little Russian peasants.
6-10. Little Russians (Ukrainians). 6: Little Russian woman 15: Great Russian peasants.
from Kherson (Black Sea). 7: Ukrainian peasant woman. 16. Little Russian country girl.

168 BALTIC PROVINCES AND FINLAND. 18th and 19th Centuries

Top Group 10. Part view of the Sarafan skirt with straps, made of thick
the Woman from Latvia. pleated and quilted material.
2 Woman from Esthonia in coloured skirt made of material 10a. Cloth bodice. 10b. short linen blouse.
with the same pattern on both sides.
Bottom Group
3: Woman from Ingermanland. 18th century.
ails Finnish woman in festive attire. 18th century.
4-6. Finnish costume (according to figures in the Museum
WZ; Finnish peasant woman. 18th century.
Rissanen, Helsinki).
13: Finnish peasant. 18th century.
Centre Group 14. Esthonian woman (cf. 7, back view). 18th century.
Tk Woman from Esthonia. 18th century (Back view of 14). cS. A maiden from Caluga (Russian Government). 18th cen-
8. Finnish peasant woman from the government of Leningrad. tury.
oO Livonian girl from the Island of Osel. Next to her and in the 11- 15. From the travelling book by Johann Gottlieb Georgi,
right corner: front and side view of the horned cap made describing all peoples of the Russian empire. Petersburg.
of straw and covered with cloth. 1776.

169 TURBAN STYLES (from India to North-west Africa)

The turban consists of a cap around which a silk or muslin only allowed to be worn by the descendants of the prophet
scarf or cloth is draped. This cloth called Keffiyeh in Arabic and the emits.
ot Koffia in Moorish is a very old Oriental head-dress. 12; Padded under-cap, green. Museum, Copenhagen.
Already the Hebrews wore it draped round their heads. 13 Black under-cap.
Today the hey-day of the turban is passed. The Ottoman 14. High cap with a low turban (saryk). According to Bellini.
officers, soldiets and officials, etc., have worn the red Cf. figs. 34 and 35.
tarbush with tassel without a wrapper ever since the ex- Ney High tightly wrapped turban, (Egyptian), according to
tensive new regulations of Sultan Mahmud II., 1806-39. Bellini.
(The name fey used by Europeans for the Arabian word 16 and 17. Turbans according to Vivarini, about 1500. Painting
tarbush is derived from the Moroccan capital Fez. In Persia formerly in the Berlin Museum: Adoration of the Kings.
the kulah is worn. North African type of turbans.
. Turban of the Sultan Mohammed II., 1451-1481, the con- 18. Turban according to Carpaccio, about 1500. Tightly
queror of Constantinople, according to a memorial coin, in wrapped North African type.
the Berlin Miinzkabinett. 19. Turban according to Carpaccio, about 1500. Loosely wrapp-
. Sultan Suleiman the Great, 1520-66. According to a wood- ed turban with burnous, the hood of which can be pulled
cut of the 16th century. over it (for travelling).
. Persian in earlier times. 20. Turban according to Carpaccio. Moorish.
. Oriental on a Renaissance painting. Rome, Vatican, Appar-
tamenti Borgia.
Ay Modern Moroccan, the turban wound in a roll around a
tarbush without a tassel.
. Quilted linen cap (takia) which according to Moorish
fashion is worn under the tarbush, or without it by ordin-
B Tunisian turban.
ary people. 2S. Moorish prince in the Middle Ages. According to a re-
. Turkish tarbush. presentation in the Alhambra. The ends of the Keffiyeh are
. Low crowned tarbush worn in Maghreb (Western country, thrown over the shoulders as a neck protection.
west of Egypt). 24. Tunisian turban wound loosely in a roll around the head.
. Turban from a Venetian representation about 1500. (Car- DOS: Thick brown or black camel hair cord wound round a stiff
paccio), sewn or pinned up. felt cap and white haik covering it. Algeria.
. Egyptian turban according to a Venetian representation, 25a. The felt cap belonging to fig. 25.
about 1500. (Bellini). Tightly wrapped round. 26 and 27. Silk caps lined in gay colours around which the
10. Egyptian turban with high tarbush and neck protection. turban scarf is wound. Turkestan.
(According to Bellini). 28. Turban from Bokhara.
11. Green turban. (According to Bellini). Green head bands are 29: Similar to 25 according to an example from Palestine.

60
 . High tarbush with gaily coloured silk turban scarf. Western 48. An example from India. Brocade cap. Scarf in one colour.
Asia Minor. «: 49, Radhanpur, India, small turban, olive green, red and gold.
31. Persian with lambskin cap (kw/ah). 50. Brahman. Tightly wound coloured turban.
32. Kurd. The scarf is embroidered (yellow on white). 51. Parsee from Bombay. Turban wound tightly around a
33. Felt cap worn by Kurds (cf. fig. 34). conical cap (picture next to the turban).
“Sie tg ”? a high cap and coloured turban scatf loosely 55 Man from Pondicherry. Red turban with flower pattern
wrapped. . : : :
35. Kurdish low turban wound around tarbush with tassel. i da Oe Roper epee eUaaES see painted, on, bis
36. Turban, Hindustan. 53. South Indian stage turban.
37. Turban, Afghanistan. ’ 54. The same, back view.
38. Afghan. The cap of quilted gold brocade. Cha eerie ae fram Madea,
ag ai Se ae eho eee ae Onl te 56 and 57. Madras shoemaker; turban loosely wound.
40. Afghan. Loosely wrapped turban over felt ot linen cap. 58-60. Men om the retinue of the Maharaja of Pudukkottai.
44. Baluch., 61. South Indian barber with pink turban.
Ao Betuch) Roll-like scarf, _ 62 and 63. Man from the caste of the chatti of Coromandel
43. Sultan of Zanzibar, 1875. The end of the turban falls down Coast. Red turban with gold stripes over the temples, light
over his shoulder. green turban wound round the back of the head.
44, Imam, officiating priest of a Mohammedan mosque. 1860. 64. High priest of a Vaishnava temple at Tirapadi.
45. Kashmir prince. Red turban with gold borders, diadem, 65. Marwari merchant, money-lender from Poona. Red turban
clasp, heron’s feathers. The Turkish pashas and com- with gold ribbons.
manders used to wear heron’s feathers on the turban. 66. Marwari sorcerer from Poona. Red turban.
46. Kashmir, turban loosely draped, white. 67. Coolie from the Malabar coast. White turban. According
47. Kashmir, turban loosely draped and covering the ears, like to photographs and pictures in travel books collected by
fig. 36. Coloured. Max Tilke.

TURKEY. 7800-25 170

Top Group Bottom Group

1. Bairakdar (ensign). 13. Great vizier in a fur trimmed costume for attending the
2. Harbadshi with a turban made of a cloth 40 yards long. council. He wears, instead of a turban, the ceremonial
3. Artilleryman. muslin cap (pointed or flat-topped) with a gold ribbon or
4. Janizary of the embassies. woven in gold stripes, a cap worn by high officials.
5. Provost of the janizaries. The rice spoon in a case fixed to i en oe costume with sable trimming and long

6 ee eke Jae eae i oteip 15. High officer of the body-guard with the janizary cap sur-
. Artillery captain of the janizaries (Oda-bashi — inspector of bags are eh Wide b
rooms), at the same time administrator of inns and cara- LeeLee Gd Shot oe Sa Oe Ge
2 Rae gaiters up to the knees, fastened by hooks. Fox-fur trimm-
ing on the outer coat (dolman) and silver belt into which
Centre Group the knout is stuck.
: : ition ae 16. Sultan’s wife with wide red trousers, green garment, with
" So-called Paes sep reecotative of the janizatics. silver braids, red jacket, velvet fur-trimmed coat with gold
B. Sailor. braids on the seams.
9. Peik, member of a body-guard of whom ten to twelve 17, Dancer in the Seraglio, wearing costume of orange col-
surrounded the sultan on his riding expeditions. oured cloth with gold ornamentation. Sash.
10. Turkish woman (veiled), walking in the streets. 18. Woman of the Seraglio. Trousers, garment slashed at the
11. Turkish woman wearing indoor costume. sides and outer garment with winged sleeves. Sash with
12. Janizary accompanying a vizier. The janizaries were abol- hanging ends, strings of pearls and half moon as hair
ished after the rising in 1826. decoration. Shoes with wooden sandal stilts.

TURKEY iy
Top Group 6. Porter from Istambul.
1. Turkish hodsha in Scutari (Albania). Hodsha means: scholar,
religious teacher, also: master, mister. Centre Group
2. Turk from Monastir in Macedonia. 7. Water-carrier from Istambul in summer attire.
3. Turkish harem woman wearing indoor costume. Istambul. 8. Turkish lady in the earlier out-door costume. Saloniki.
4. Vendor of comestibles, especially cakes, sweets or ices, in 9. Lower middle class woman in out-door attire. (Istambul).
Istambul. The cakes etc. are protected by the glass 10. An official (aga — illiterate).
covets. 11 and 12. Anatolian peasants from the district of Ankara
5. Dervish from Istambul. (Asia Minor).

61
 Bottom Group
13. Harem woman from Istambul in gold embroidered cloth- 14-18. Turks (ordinary people) in front of a popular café,
jacket with hanging sleeves over the silk. Entari (Kaftan) smoking the narghile rented from the proprietor who also
the two front parts of which are gathered on the hips thus serves the coffee.
exposing the silk baggy trousers.

(Mees SOUTH-EASTERN CAUCASUS AND ARMENIA

Top Group 8. Woman of the Kabardians, Tcherkesses of the Terek
1. Caucasian body-guard, about 1870. district.
2. Tcherkes (Circassian), about 1800. 9, Armenian peasant from the Erserum district. 1880.
3. Caucasian village elder about 1870. 10. Armenian woman from Kars 1880.
4. Man from a south Circassian tribe (Ubyck) about 1850. 11. Armenian bishop in ceremonial robe.
5. Tcherkes (Circassian) 1850 in the long national coat (Cher- Bottom Group
kesska).
6. Man belonging to a north Circassian tribe. 12. Wife of a Kurdish chief.
13. Kurd belonging to the Yezidis (sect).
Centre Group 14, Tartar women from Nukha.
7. Woman in Grusian costume from Georgia or Grusia, the 15. Woman from the Kara-papaks.
district south of the Caucasus (Transcaucasia). 16. Man from Daghestan (Lesghir).

Le SOUTH-WESTERN CAUCASUS
Top Group 11. Peasant with bash/ik tarban from Trebizond.
1. Above — Imeritian with large hair arrangement and the 12. Horse dealer with patched enfari (kaftan) from Trebizond.
national flat (plate-like) cap. 13. Street vendor selling coffee.
2 and 3. Below — two Imeritians with high Astrakhan caps. Bottom Group
4 and 5. Armed Adigheh. The bashik draped as a turban.
14 and 15. Armenian women from Akhaltiskh. 14: in indoor
6 and 7. Mountain Lazes.
8. Young Laze.
dress with cloth apron. 15: Bride in festive attire. Govern-
ment of Tiflis.
Centre Group 16. Monk from the monastery of Gelati near Kutais.
9. Armenian woman. 17. Turkish citizen from Kars.
10. Greek woman. 18. Kurdish girl from Alexandropol.

icfi4 CAUCASUS
Top Group
1-5. Mountain dwellers from the high central Caucasus. 9. Grusian dealing with cream cheese. Man from the Tiflis
1 and 2. Khevsur couple from the high central Caucasus. The streets (Grusian = Russian word for Georgian).
Khevsurs (inhabitants of ravines) belong to the Georgians. 10. Georgian prince from Tiflis in earlier national costume.
3 and 4. Couple belonging to the Tushes (from Tushetia) of | 11. Ossete of the militia wearing Cherkesska (cf. 8), burka
Georgian descent. (outer coat), papache (Astrakhan cap), Aindshal (dagger
5. Andijan from Kideri (in the high Daghestan) in sheep skin . hanging on the belt.)
coat. Bottom Group
Centre Group 12. Armenian woman of rank from Julfa (Persian border).
6. Shepherd from the Svanetia district (Government of Kutais). 13. Armenian peasant woman from Shusha.
7. Gurian prince in an earlier costume, Georgian inhabitant | 14. Armenian in earlier national costume, from Shusha.
of the Guria district (Gono-Kutais). 15. Armenian inn-keeper from the Tiflis district. 1912-13.
8. Mingrelian in the so-called Cherkesska (long coat withtwo ‘16. Kurdish chief. From the district of Erivan (southern Cau-
rows of cartridge pouches). The bashlik (Turkish word casus).
meaning head-dress) is draped as a turban. 17. Kurd from the Nestorian mountains (southern Caucasus).

Le TURKESTAN AND IRAN (PERSIA)

Top Group 3. Man of rank wearing a velvet coat ornamented with gold
1-6. Western Russian Turkestan and Bokhara. and silver, brocade boots, over velvet, gold-embroidered
1. Man from Bokhara. Tunic made of printed cotton. Silk shoes.
outer garment (in Arabian: Chi’at, in Persian: Chal’at) with 4. Man from Samarkand, cap, garment, sash, slippers.
blended patterns, boots, overshoes and muslin turban. 5. Horseman wearing jack-boots and three different garments:
2. High official hawking. Cap, cloth coat, leather trousers the under-garment made of cotton, the two top ones of silk.
embroidered with silk. Boots. 6. Street vendor from Samarkand, in cotton garments.

62
 Centre Group
7-17. Iran. > 14. Rich woman. Long white trousers of knitted material, short
D Muleteer. Astrakhan cap, coat, open in front with tight white dress (resembling a crinoline). Shoulder cape. Hair
sleeves (alkaluk), sash, semi-wide trousers (zerejumeh). decorated with flowers.
8. Businessman. Astrakhan cap. Silk a/kaluk. Outer coat, wide
15. Nurse with kerchief. Blouse of diaphanous material, long
trousers, coloured woollen stockings, green slippers.
tight trousers, short skirt.
2. Worker. Astrakhan cap. Coat with wide skirts and made of
striped green silk, tight black trousers. 16. Rich woman wearing turban with the ends of the material
10. Mullah or Achund (Mohammedan theological scholar) of hanging down, long-sleeved brocade bodice, sash round the
the principal mosque Mesdshid-i-Shah in Ispahan. Large waist, fur trimmed jacket with hanging sleeves, wide baggy
white muslin turban, long, wide gown covered by a long silk trousers. Bare feet with green slippers. About 1820.
sleeveless mantle. 17. Woman in out-door attire. Wide baggy trousers, being
11. Falconer. Coat with wide hanging sleeves, slashed open narrowed and forming garters at the ankle. Black cape and
and exposing semi-wide shirt sleeves, wide trousers. large veil in front of face.
iz A tich man. High Astrakhan cap, lined red, brown gown
18. Dervish (cf. plate 171, 5). Embroidered cap wound round
with narrow sleeves, covered by a red fur-trimmed jacket,
with woollen cords. Alkaluk (open coat) and Zerejumeh
over it cloth coat with slits for the arms and hanging
(semi-wide trousers); outer garment (similar to that of the
sleeves. Woollen socks. About 1820.
Mullah, fig. 10). Sash with the ends falling down. Necklaces,
Bottom Group sandals. In one hand the vessel (for the alms given to them)
13. Woman from Shiraz. Large kerchief, with a long veil with the brass chains, in the other hand a halberd for self-
falling down the back. Short wide skirt. castigation.

WEST TURKESTAN AND ASIATIC RUSSIA

Top Group
1-6. Turkestan and Bokhara. 10. Kirghiz woman from Bokhara with veil-turban and quilted
1. Dervish from Bokhara with bottle-shaped pumpkin and kaftan (chalat), a garment of honour worn by officials of
instruments for castigation. The costume of the dervishes merit etc., a wide silk or cloth outer garment with long
varies according to the orders (of which twelve are said to sleeves according to central Asiatic fashion.
exist). These Mohammedan monks have caps of various Mls Kirghiz man wearing fur cap, fur-trimmed woollen coat
shapes and all wear a coat (chirka). with sash and silk chalat. The Kirghiz costume consists
2. Turkoman with lambskin cap. furthermore of wide woollen trousers and riding-boots (not
3. Dancer from Samarkand. visible here).
4-6. Women from Samarkand. Fig. 5 has partly taken off the 12 Armed Kirghiz. The Kirghiz are excellent shots, even if
mantle (with the characteristic sleeves like 6) essential as an only using old-fashioned rifles.
out-door garment. 4 shows the thick veil like a wire Bottom Group
meshing mask.
13 and 14. Tartar women from Turkestan.
Centre Group 15 and 16. Kalmuck couple. The man with his fur coat turned
7-17. Bashkirs, Kirghiz, Kalmucks. The Bashkirs belong to inside out. The Kalmucks are genuine Mongols who during
the Ural-Altaic race and are nomadic stock-breeders and the 17th and 18th centuries left their homeland (Dzungaria)
bee-keepers. The Kirghiz are Mohammedans and belong in order to wander westward and settle in various parts of
to the Turkish tribes of the same race. Russia, Siberia and Central Asia.
7 and 8. Young Bashkir couple, the man wearing a dark 17. Kirghiz shaman (priest doctor). Head-dress with fur and
kaftan made of cloth or nankin material; underneath: gar- feathers. On the sleeve-seams long leather strips with
ment with belt and trousers. Fur cap. Woman in silk kaftan, jingling metal plates. Pictures over 17: On top, left: Silk
red cap and many ornaments of glass beads, corals, etc. Kalmuck cap with fur, below, left: Kirghiz cap, right: head
9. Kirghiz woman in bridal gown. of a Kirghiz woman.

BALUCHISTAN, AFGHANISTAN, MONGOLIA, AND TIBET iy

Top Group
1 and 2. Khans (chiefs) from Baluchistan. Gold-embroidered, A painted sign on the forehead. Boots with high iron heels.
fur-lined velvet coats, 2: with turban of tube-like scarfs (Peshawar belonging to India, since 1840. Transit road for
wound round the head. the trade between India, Afghanistan and Central Asia.)
3. Soldier from the frontier of Baluchistan and Afghanistan.
Round shield, sword of Indian shape. Centre Group
4. Mountain dweller from Baluchistan. Silk jacket. Rifle with 7. Lama (Buddhist priest or abbot, also prophet and magician,
rest. etc., of the Tibetans, Mongols, and Kalmucks) with a rattle
5. Woman from Kabul (Afghanistan). (made of a child’s skull covered with skin). Tibet.
6. Hindu from Peshawar. Gold-embroidered and silk-lined 8. Lama in a wide mantle with high red cap. Tibet.
cloth coat over a wide silk or cloth garment. The turban 9. Costume of part of the Tunguses between Yenissei and
is wound round a pointed cap made of Turkestan material. Amut.

63
 +

10. Woman from Tibet with characteristic head-dress. 17. Chief of the Dunganions (Turkomano-Tarars, inhabitants
11. Girl from Tibet. of Dzungaria).
12. Lama from Lhasa (capital of Tibet). 18. Dunganian woman.
19. Buriat (the Buriats: A Siberian Mongolian tribe from the
Bottom Group
district of Lake Baikal). Fur coat with iron ornaments, bow
13-16. Inhabitants of Kuldja (Chinese district of East Tur- and silver decorated quiver. The Buriats are stock breeding
kestan). The two women in native costume, the boy and nomads and hunters, also famous for leather work and
the man in Chinese costume with the native national cap. weaving.

178 AFGHANISTAN AND INDIA

Top Group
1-5. Afghanistan. 9. Court official from Kashmir.
1. Armed villager from the ruling Afghan tribe of the Durani. 10. Hindu from Simla, formerly summer residence of the
Rifle with rest. viceroy in the Himalayas.
2s Hindki i. e. wholesale dealer, money changer, in winter if: Man belonging to the Oudh tribe from Lucknow. Oudh is
clothes. thé country where in antiquity early Indian culture flourish-
3. Armed Afghan in summer clothes. ed and later on Gautama Buddha was teaching. The ca-
. Shepherd from the Durani tribe. Felt-like mantle with very pital, Lucknow, remained the recognized centre where
long sleeves. Lambskin cap. The beard dyed with henna poetry, learning and music were fostered. The inhabitants
(cf. Ancient Egypt). are mostly Hindus, the minority Mohammedans.
. Soldier from Kohistan, a mountainous district, in winter
Bottom Group
clothes. Short sleeved coat made of hide, leather-covered
12 and 13. Court official and Raja (i. e. prince) from Dirhut.
round shield. Rifle like 1.
14. Fakir from Benares.
Centre Group 15. Dancer from Calcutta (Dewadashi servant of the gods). Be-
6-7. India. sides the temple assistants there are the ordinary vagrant
6 and 7. Banjar and wife. The Banjari are a tribe in central dancers, who perform their dances for money.
India, live as nomads under a chief, and do their corn 16 and 17. Princes of Brahmin descent from Orissa (the holy
dealing by ox-carts. district of the Hindus with many temples and situated on
8. Maharaja of Dholpur, a state of Rajputana, India. the Bay of Bengal.

INDIA. 1600-17800. Mohammedan Princes

Top Group
1. Man of rank belonging to the Rajputs (a caste very proud 5 and 7. Great Mogul of India, Achmed Shah (1748-58) with
of their descendancy from an ancient Indian warrior caste, two servants.
but who in the course of time have intermarried with other
Bottom Group
races. Most of them live in Northwest India, in Rajputana
which consists of several different states). 8. Murad-Bakche, imperial prince, brother of Aurung-Zebe
. Jehangir, son of Akbar, the great Mogul emperor in India, (cf. 3), 17th century.
who resided in Agra. 1559-1627. 9. Woman ofa rich family, 18th century with ornaments on her
. The last ruler of the Mohammedan dynasty of the kingdom ears, nose, forehead, hair and neck.
of Golconda, which was overthrown by Aurung-Zebe in 10 and 11. Mohammedan Indian with his wife. 18th century.
1687. Golconda is situated seven miles northwest of Hyder- 12. Warrior of the Rajputs. 18th century.
abad. According to contemporary original paintings in the res-
pective department of the Lipperheide costume library
Centre Group (formerly in the State Art Library at Berlin and other col-
4. A ruler of Delhi. 17th century. lections).

INDIA. Modern Times

Top Group
1. Man from Bombay. 6. Brahmin from Bengal.
2 Footman from Bombay.
3. Woman from Bombay. Centre Group
4, Coolie woman. 7. Gardener from Poona (Bombay).
Bi Man of Dravidian descent from Madras. (The Dravidians 8 and 9. Landowners from the same district.
are the main original population in India who in prehistoric 10. Business-man from the same district.
times were pushed back towards the south and the hilly 11. Wife of a Mahratta (the Mahrattas being a warrior race).
districts of the interior by the Aryans invading the country 12. The same costume, back view.
from the north.)

64
Bottom Group 14. A drummer.
13-15. Inhabitants of Ceylon. afte 15. Dancer (Devil dancer) with wooden mask.
13. Tamil belonging to a more cultured tribe of the Dravidian 16-18. Inhabitants of South India.
population, in the north of Ceylon and the southern part of 16. Actor playing a woman’s part.
India. 17 and 18. Native elder with his wife.

CHINA. National Costume and Dignitaries’ Costume 181

Top Group 9. Soldier from Kuldja in East Turkestan. Cf. pl. 177, 13-16.
1. Servant, bareheaded. 10. Cavalry general in a costume of earlier times.
2. Ordinary man from Northern China in winter costume. 11 and 12. Mandarins of high rank.
3. Usher to the coutt.
4. Street barber with padded jacket. Bottom Group
5. Man belonging to the lower classes. 13. Lower class Chinese woman.
6. Peasant with felt hat. 14. Lower class Chinese woman from Tsingtao.
15. Woman in a modern outfit from Northern China.
Centre Group 16. Bride from Shanghai with strings of pearls hanging down
7. Officer. from her head-dress, Chinese silk and gold embroidery.
8. Soldier in the ranks. 17. Violin player from Northern China.

CHINA. National Costume and Dignitaries’ Costume 182

Top Group
1. Judge in a simple tunic and straw hat. 7 and 8. Girls from Southern China in indoor attire.
2. Chinese mandarin with tunic under two silk outer garments 9. Woman’s costume according to the old national tradition.
with a piece of brocade across the chest, long necklace and 10. Woman from Shanghai in festival attire; on top right the
velvet cap. crippled women’s feet (as produced for aesthetic reasons:
. Chan (prince of Mongolian descent). a custom not followed in Northern China).
. His official in a long tunic, short sleeveless outer garment Bottom Group
and cloth cap.
11-13. Chinese mother with child and servant.
. Business man in silk trousers, long under-garment, sleeved
14. Nurse with child carried by means of a cloth slung over one
jacket and cloth cap.
shoulder.
Centre Group 15. Woman from Manchuria.
6. Woman from Northern China. 16. Chinese woman with stilt-like wooden under-shoes.

JAPAN. National Costume and Stage Costume 183

Top Group ally larger, were shaped like very big snakes. Alms bag on
1. High Japanese officer in out-door costume. their backs. Stilted shoes.
2-5. Japanese women with sunshades made of a bamboo 14. Musician (girl) with the three-stringed Sam-Sim.
frame and covered with silk, linen or glazed paper. ey Young servant girl with a kerchief wound round her head,
6. Yakounine (yakou: office; nine: man): police officer belong- bare-footed.
ing to the lower aristocracy. He also acts as a guide. An em- 16. Japanese woman wearing winter town-costume (full mantle
blem of his profession is fixed on his girdle at the back. and hood). Her hands are covered by the long sleeves of the
Japanese of the privileged class in the costume of the mantle.
students of the University of Yeddo. He carries a sword lire Fisherman in straw mantle and bamboo hat (worn in rainy
and wears silk skirt-like trousers and shoes with wooden weather).
under-shoes (stilts). 18. Lady with fan in a wide quilted kimono with a sash held in
place by a narrow girdle with buckles. Long white stock-
Centre Group ings. The chief dress for both sexes is the kimono, a long
8-11. Japanese actors (figures of the old Japanese stage). open garment, (the women’s a little longer than the men’s)
8. Nakamura Utayémon as Shirabyoshi Hana (lady of the court) which draped crosswise over the chest is gathered round
in the ballet Diaz. the hips by a wide silk sash (women) or a narrow one (men).
9. Omotakaya Kinoshi Shikawa Danshiro in Kanjincho (as Under this outer garment men wear close fitting or wide
court official). trousers and over them a skirt. The women wear one or
10. Actor in a woman’s part. two tunic-like silk garments. Shirts are not worn in Japan.
11. Ichikawa Danjuro V in the part of a Daimyo (territorial Footwear in summer are linen stockings, in winter woollen
prince). ones with a space next to the big toe, through which the
band of the straw sandal or the wooden stilted shoe is
Bottom Group passed. Workers only wear the short knee-length skirt and
12 and 13. Buddhist monks with small rosaries, which, origin- no trousers.

65
 ~*~

184 JAPAN. More recent National Costume and Warriors? Outfit

Top Group
1. Shinto priest (Shintoism has become powerful again as a sandals, tight cotton trousers, shirt, short kimono and
national cult since 1867-68). fillet-like kerchiefs on their heads.
2. Shinto pilgrim in a white costume (mourning) with an alms 9 and 10. Porter and little girl. The porter in a short kimono
bell and long travelling staff. A bag thrown over the shoul- with a longer draped one over it. Sandals made of straw
der for small books. Flat bamboo hat. and padded leather, kerchief. A rolled-up picture in one
3. Japanese in a non-military winter costume with the em- hand. The child is dressed in the costume of adults and
broidered insignia of a professional society (perhaps that of wears high sandals made of wood and padded leather.
doctors).
Bottom Group
4. Citizen in a summer costume with large basket-like straw
hat and fan for writing down business notes. Long kimono, 11. Officer of the archers (old war outfit of the Samurai). White
short over-coat. cotton stockings and gloves. No sandals.
5. Lady in town costume. The outer garment with wide 12. Officer with bearded mask.
hanging sleeves, which serve as pockets. 13. Officer with greaves. 11-13. wear leather mail coats.
Centre Group 14. Maid servant in modern dress.
6-8. Lady carried in a sedan chair. The bearers wearing leather 15. Flower vendor. Kerchief, kimono, socks and sandals.

185 BURMA, SIAM, JAVA

Top Group 9 and 10. Dancer and pugilist, Java.
1. Woman from Mandalay, since 1860 capital of the kingdom. 11. Javanese actress.
2. Buddhist priest from Burma. Bottom Group
3. Burmese dancer (girl).
12 and 13. Musicians accompanying dancers, Java.
4-6. Siamese royal family in the traditional court costume.
14. Woman dancer, Java.
Centre Group 15. Woman vendor, Java.
7-16. Javanese costume. 16. Javanese lower class man in the national sarong, the long
7 and 8. Javanese couple of rank. cotton loin-cloth with coloured batik patterns.

186 MOROCCO AND ALGERIA

Top Group similar to antique fashion. Red cap with tassels. Leather
1-11. Morocco (according to original sketches by Max Tilke). boots with babouches over them. (Cf. pl. 191: Oriental foot-
1. Moroccan wearing the jellab (djellabia), hooded mantle with weat.)
sleeves. The skarra, silk embroidered leather bag with wooll- Centre Group
en cord is slung over one shoulder. Yellow leather babouches.
7. Girl in indoor dress, Morocco.
2. Man from the interior of the country wearing burnous
8. Woman of the lower classes in a draped mantle (hazk, cf. 6),
(Arabian word), a white or black coarse woollen mantle
Motocco.
with hood. A large straw hat is worn over the turban
9. Conjurer, fire eater, snake charmer etc., wearing a red cloth
wound round the head and the hood.
kaftan with 100 buttons. Morocco.
3. Moroccan of rank wearing the linen shirt-like garment
10. Water vendor with a skin container. Camel wool cords
chamisa (Latin: camisia; Italian: camicia; French: chemise),
wound round the turban. Morocco.
over it a burnous made of fine white wool. Turban of plain
11. Man wearing 4aik and burnous over it. Morocco.
muslin draped round the red cap.
4. Armed man from the interior of the country. Striped Bottom Group
woollen djellabia over the djebba, the generally sleeveless 12-17. Algeria.
shirt. A red cloth draped round the head without a cap. 12. Arabian peasant.
5. Berber from the Rif (Northern Morocco) wearing a blue 13. Kabyl of Berber descent.
linen djebba and trousers of the same material. Leather belt 14. Sheikh (oldest chieftain) of Arabian descent.
embroidered with silk. Curved dagger and brass gun- 15. Arabian sheikh from the interior of the country.
powder horn. 16. Spahi (native soldier) trained by the French as cavalry in
6. Moroccan horseman wearing hazk, a five yard long woollen Algeria and Tunis since 1834.
cloth which is picturesquely draped around the body 17. Servant (in town), Algeria.

187 WEST AND EAST AFRICA

Top Group 3. Haussa negro of rank (farmer, artisan and business man).
1. Rich woman from Senegal. Mohammedan.
2. Man of the Fulbe tribe (a Mohammedan stock-raising 4. Negro from Southern Morocco.
people) with letter bag of decorated leather. 5. Leader of a caravan from Senegal.
Centre Group Bottom Group
6-18. Central East Africa (Nubia, Abyssinia, Italian East 13. Warrior from Uganda in war attire. Leather wrap and leather
Africa, Somaliland, Kenya, Tanganyika Territory). sandals. The hair is dyed red by means of lime.
6. Nubian girl dancer with loin-cloth made of leather cords 14. Somali warrior wearing cotton loin-cloth. Shield covered
and shells. Ornamental scars produced by tatooing. with rhinoceros hide. Dagger.
7. Abyssinian chieftain with ornamental mantle and shield 15. Young Somali warrior in a cotton wrap draped round the
covered with velvet and studded with silver and gold. body. Shield made of a thick skin with coloured wool
. Somali woman wearing a cotton wrap as a dress and silver tassels. Amulet round his neck.
ornaments on her breast.
16. Abyssinian warrior wearing brocade tunic, linen trousers,
. Swahili negro in festival attire.
decorated shield made of thick skin. Next to him: leather
. Swahili woman in festival attire.
basket with shell ornaments.
. Arab from Zanzibar.
. Female water-carrier from Zanzibar wrapped in a cotton 17: Bedouin woman of the Somali carrying grass to the market.
garment. (The material is printed in Europe.) 18. Nubian warrior.

ALGERIA AND TUNIS 188

Top Group
1-5. Algeria. 11. Lower class man wearing white waistcoat, brown outer
1-3. Girl dancers or café dancers from Blida, Algeria, some garment, woollen wrap. Turban band with red and white
of them with richly decorated head-dress. squares.
4. Woman from Algiers in indoor dress. Bottom Group
5. Kabyl woman.
12. Moorish girl wearing indoor dress.
Centre Group 13. Jewish woman wearing breeches and ankle stockings.
6. Workman wearing hooded jacket made of rough wool with Over the waistcoat short silk tunic with shoulder parts
white cord trimmings. White linen breeches and loin-cloth extended. Pointed cap of gold material.
(fuddah ). 14. Jewess wearing silk breeches. Silver ankle ring, small slip-
. Countryman belonging to the Berber tribes. Thick brown pers.
camel hair cap, cotton tunic (kandura). Haik wrapped 15. Jew in the traditional costume. (Since the French rule was
round the body. Burnous (mantle). The haik is worn in established in Tunis in 1881 the limitations to which the
Northern Africa and consists of a cloth five yards long and numerous Jews were subjected wete abolished.) Black
one yatd wide and is generally striped. It is wrapped and turban band, greyish-blue blouse and black-grey cotton
draped round the body in various ways. About the burnous breeches. Wrap thrown over the shoulder. Red sash, black
cf. plate 186, fig. 2. European shoes.
. Rich man from Tunis (capital of Tunisia). The turban is 16. Arab from the interior of the country wearing striped
wound in three circles round the cap. Kandura (tunic), kandura over linen breeches. Cotton cord holds the ker-
yellow silk waistcoat, fine mantle made of European cloth, chief in place. The haik is worn in the horseman’s way. Soft
yellow slippers. leather boots with over-shoes. The pointed end of the
. Coffee-house owner. Shirt made of rather coarse wool, stirrup (next to the man) is used instead of a spur.
white breeches. Outer garment with V-neck, yellow slip- th. Man from Tunis (of Moorish descent) in full dress. Artisan
pers. Turban similar to 8. or dealer from the souks (streets with bazaars). Turban,
10. Citizen from Tunis. Short blue cloth jacket. Turban band kandura, haik, burnous.
embroidered with gold and yellow threads. 6-17. Tunis (according to sketches by the painter Max Tilke).

EGYPT AND EAST AFRICA 189

Top Group 9. Water vendor.
1-11. Egypt. 10 and 11. Women with face veil fetching water.
1 and 2. Bedouins from the Libyan Desert. Bottom Group
3. Bedouin woman.
12-17. East Africa.
4. Old village elder among the Fellahs with the long rod
12. Man from Kordofan on the White Nile. Kaftan made of
(nabat) as insignia of his dignity. He wears a woollen scarf
cheap silk, linen cap.
(hirdn) and the abée made of goat’s wool as a long cape.
13. Man from Bornu, Central Sudan. Sandals decorated with
Yellow shoes (balgha). The fellah himself (fellah — plough-
ostrich feathers.
man) wears very scanty clothes.
14. Man of the Tuareg, a Mohammedan tribe in Barbary with
5. Runner in front of riders of rank or carriages.
the curious face cloth (sam).
Centre Group 15. Man of the Tibbu (Tebu, Tubu) tribe in the eastern Sahara
6. Man-servant in the usual simple indigo-dyed national greeting guests and wearing white /isam. In his hands: lance
costume with tarbush and blue tassel fixed to it. and iron weapons to be thrown in battle. (Several other
7 and 8. Vagrant musician couple; the man wearing close- weapons illustrated over his head.)
fitting felt cap (in Arabic: /ibde). 16 and 17. Men of the Tibbu tribe. On right: camel saddle.

67
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190 SYRIA AND PALESTINE, ARABIA

Top Group generally the Aeffiych, the large kerchief with or without the
{= 7. Syria. thick woollen cord wound round it.
it mr aeciat from the Lebanon (Syria) with turban, cloth 10. Praying Mohammedan, Jerusalem.
jacket and silk waistcoat. 12. Bedouin woman, district of Jerusalem.
2s Fellah (peasant). 1Z Fellah woman, district of Nazareth.
of Druse woman from the Lebanon. The Druses are an old sect 13, Dervish, Damascus.
belonging to the Syrian-Arabian tribes. Their women 14. Bedouin, (nomadic shepherd) from Transjordan.
(3 and 5) wear a peculiar horn-like head-dress, called ¢antur Bottom Group
ot ¢urtur (cf. Burgundian cap pl. 46). 15-20. Arabia.
Fellah woman from the Damascus district, Syria. IDs Man from the lower classes wearing blue cotton tunic (worn
. Druse woman from the Damascus district, represented here in many parts of the Orient) with red sash (xunndr).
without veil. 16. Man wearing camel hair mantle (abdyeh), also used as a
Dancer from Damascus. cape by Bedouins (nomads and shepherds). Red tarbush
. Woman from Damascus with kabkabs, protective wooden (also called fez) with a turban scarf wound around. (The
stilted under-shoes, especially worn in the baths when turban is called shala or /effe in Arabic.
walking on the hot floors. 17. Man of rank in a more Turkish attire.
18. Woman from Mecca with double or threefold veil (open in
Centre Group
this picture).
8-14. Palestine. 19. Woman from Yemen, the south-western coast district of
8. Woman from Bethlehem (without veil, as the town is Arabia.
mostly inhabited by native Christians). 20. Pilgrim (hadji) wearing a six foot long cloth, four and a
9: Bedouin sheikh from the Hlauran, a district south of Da- half feet wide (thram) draped round his body and carrying
mascus (Syria) inhabited by Arab Bedouins (shepherd a rosary (used by Buddhist, Islamic and Christian people).
nomads), Fellahs as well as Druses. The head-dress is 21. Man of rank from Medina.

191 ORIENTAL FOOTWEAR

1 and 2. Persian woman’s slipper (seen from above and below). 26. Syrian man’s shoe.
3. Woman’s slipper, green. Persian and Tartar styles (Cau- Zils Turkish shoe for men and women.
casus). 28. Woman’s house shoe, Turkish-Syrian.
. Woollen knitted travelling shoe for men with hemp sole. Do: Gold embroidered lady’s slipper.
. Persian women’s high boots made of red velvet. 30. Bedouin boot worn by Syrian Kurds, red or yellow with
Persian man’s shoe. silk tassel. Iron heel.
Persian woman’s shoe. at. Man’s shoe from Jerusalem, red.
. Persian shoe. 32. Stilted shoe (called Rabkab) used in the baths and as a pro-
. Woollen sock used as shoe. Persia. tection against the dirt of the streets, comparable to the
Woman’s shoe, Samarkand. European wooden under-shoes in the Middle Ages. In the
PSSM
A . Woman’s
NAM shoe, Yarkand (Chinese East Turkestan. The baths they protect the feet from the heat of the floors.
inhabitants are mainly Turkish Tartars). Damascus.
. Woman’s stilted shoe from Bokhara. 333 Bosnian woman’s shoe.
. Peasant boot from Bokhara. 34. Opanke, shoe ot sandal made of hard hide laced with cords
. Shoe worn by Turkomans. that are made of animal’s intestines. Herzegovina and other
pe
PRW . Women’s
PPP
mm
bd
& boots from Yarkand. Leather, embroidered cloth western districts of the Balkan peninsula. The foot is
and silk tassels. covered by a thick heelless sock.
. Boot made of soft leather. Over this a shoe (fig. 20) is worn;
— nN 35: Woman’s shoe, Bosnia.
when stepping on carpets in the living rooms the over- 36 and 37. Footwear of a Zanzibar princess of Arabic descent
shoes are taken off. Asia and Turkey. Jewesses also wear (representing the nobility of the island). Wooden stilted
them sometimes. shoe.
17. Men’s boots with heels worn in bad weather. Decorated 38. Woman’s boot from Morocco, red. The same in yellow are
with silver cords. often worn in Turkey. With it over-shoe of the same colour,
18. Ceremonial boots made of velvet and embroidered with called babouches (cf. fig. 41).
gold and silver. 39 and 40. Soft Moroccan leather boots, fig. 40 with silk em-
19: Man’s shoe from Bokhara. broidery. With them shoes are worn like figs. 32 and 43.
20. cf. fig. 16. 41. Over-shoes cf. 38.
ZAG Leather sandal from Ildshi, East Turkestan. 42 and 43. Red and yellow over-shoes (cf. 39 and 40). Similar
22; Woman’s shoe from Madras, India. Red cloth and silver shoes ate worn in the other North African districts.
embroidery. 44, Wooden under-shoe with iron point. The leather parts are
23% Children’s shoe. embroidered with silk. Morocco.
24. Woman’s shoe from India. 45- 51. Details of shoes worn in Northern India.
20% Mohammedan man’s shoe from Madras. 45. Man’s shoe, Hindustan.

68
46. Man’s shoe worn by a Raja from Kashmir, with iron heel. 50. Afghan woman’s shoe with silk tassel from Peshawar.
47. Woman’s shoe from Srinagar. rt 51. Woman’s white leather shoe with silver edging and imita-
48. Women’s shoes from Kashmir with double sole and iron heel. tion jewels from Lucknow. (The part over the heel is
49. Woman’s shoe from Kabul with velvet-like covering. usually trodden down).

ARAB. Horsemen “oe

1. Bedouin horseman from the Libyan Desert wrapped in the 8. Poor Bedouin from Moab. The mantle (aba) is draped
white woollen hiram with rifle (bundugir) and box-like round the legs. Lance, sword, pistols. The saddles of 6-8
stirrups. have cloths of dyed lambskin. 1-8 according to photo-
2. Horseman belonging to the southern tribes of Algeria. graphs. Late 19th century.
A tuft of ostrich feathers on his camel hair turban. . Egyptian woman with child on a donkey from Cairo.
3. Pure blooded Arab from Maskat (Oman). Met with all . Travelling women under a hood (palankin) on a camel.
along the Asiatic coasts and at princes’ courts. Southern Algeria. The wooden frame is covered by an
4. Young Tunisian horseman. The horse’s harness and saddle awning. The women are sitting in baskets on both sides of
consist of leather and velvet embroidered with gold and the camel’s hump. A thin piece of cloth can be drawn in
silver. The saddle cloth made of silk damask. front of the palankin. This word comes from India and is
5. Kabail horseman from Algeria. used there for large travelling sedan chairs (paki).
6. Dragoon from Syria. 11. Camel’s head decoration in Persian style.
7. Bedouin chieftain, Gaza. Wearing kaftan (entari) and 12. Camel lying down. The saddle in the Egyptian style.
mantle (aba). Kerchief (kofia) with cord (ogal). Lance’ 13. Kabail horseman in Southern Algeria. The camel has one
(tromblom). bridle fixed to the nose ring.

SOUTH AND CENTRAL AMERICA. 15th and 16th Centuries

The Inca empire (Peru) was destroyed by Francisco Pizarro in 1533

1-12. The Incas in ancient Peru. The Inca empire with its 5 Warrior wearing helmet with nape covering, feather tuft,
capital Cuzco (in about 1500 reaching from Quito to Val- sickle of the moon and animal’s head. Bag, shield made of
paraiso) was built up by subjugating many tribes who sub- basket work, stone axe. Legs tattooed (as shown on pre-
sequently adopted a common language and religion and served mummies).
were governed by the Incas. From the old remnants of gar- . Man of the lower classes who were called hatunruna. Simple
ments, gold figures and jugs representing figures, the painter brown poncho with edging, woollen cap and bag. Hair
Max Tilke has reconstructed a picture of the costume of the plaited. (Behind him a jug in the shape of a figure wrapped
Inca culture. in a sort of burnous).
Top Group Centre Group
1. Man of rank wearing loin-cloth the tassel of which is seen 7. Porter. On his back a basket made of agave fibres.
hanging down. Sleeved semi-long coat woven in many 8. Woman with hand spindle. Long undet-garment, shorter
colours and large white wrap similar to the Arabian burnous. poncho, scarf, necklace, woollen cap made of cords.
On his right hip he wears a bag woven of fine vicufia wool o. Llama driver with a coarse cotton shoulder cape. Reed flute.
(vicufia is a small wild species of the llama). Sandals with The llama is carrying sacks made of agave fibres.
white woollen SP In his left hand: a bundle fastened by 10. Warrior with gong or tambourine. Loin-cloth with tassels,
cords (quipu) which by means of colour variations and feather coat, helmet. Tattooing and painting on arms and
knots was of arithmetical and mnemotechnical value. legs.
- Warrior of rank. Helmet decorated with the sickle of the 11. Hostile Indian of primitive culture. Loin-cloth, feather tuft.
moon, also feather crest and neck protection. Girdled Rigclilceneaviacie: ahicitinartabiecss
poncho with meander-like decoration at the edges. Over it 49. Sactificing priest. Face tattooed or painted.
quite a short poncho similar to the European collar cape.
Ornamented bag, golden bracelets round the wrists. Bottom Group
Painted legs. Wooden weapon to be thrown and copper 13-17. Ancient Mexico.
battle-axe. — Only the ruling Inca tribe and aristocratic men 13. Man from the lower classes, porter with loin-cloth.
from the subjugated people were trained as soldiers. The 14. Woman of the Zapotec Indians in more elaborate dress with
wooden peg in the ear was a sign of the warrior of rank. characteristic hair style. Skirt (or large loin-cloth) and
. Warrior of rank in a feather coat with decorative silver straight, sleeveless outer garment to be pulled over the
plates. Helmet made of plant fibres and covered “‘scale-like’’, head. The materials are skilfully woven in many colours.
with coloured feathers. Feather tuft. Nape protection and 15. Native business-man in loin-cloth and mantle fastened by
chin band. Golden ear plates. The legs are tattooed. knotting on the chest. Shoes covering half the feet, ear pegs
Painted round shield made of hide. Battle-axe. made of nephrite, feather fan.
. Man of rank in a white woollen garment with multi-col- 16. Woman of the Huastec Indians (North-eastern Mexico),
outed woven edge and ornaments sewn on. Turban-like probably belonging to the aborigines before the invasion
head-dress. Bag with long fringes. of the Aztecs. Skirt or loin-cloth, three-cornered breast

69
 ~

kerchief, sandals, large hair ribbon, silver necklace and hip 13-17. (like plate 196, Mexico) according to contemporary
decoration, bracelets made of balls. paintings done by native Indian artists on linen. Rome,
17. Mexican woman (retinue of Cortez) wearing long skirt and Vatican Library.
large mantle with slits for head and arms.

194 MEXICO at the Time of the Discovery and Conquest by Fernando Cortez. 1519-20
Top Group loin-cloth (here too, as in Ancient Egypt, the scanty clothes
1 and 3. Warriors from Mexico with cotton protective gar- of the priests, a custom preserved from ancient times); in-
ments (similar to 6). cense burner and receptacle for alms. (According to the
2. Leader of Cortez auxiliary troops. As an emblem he has a copy of an original old Mexican statuette formerly in the
bird flying over him. Museum fiir Volkerkunde, Berlin.)
4-7. Group of Mexican warriors 14. Sacrificing priest. Skin painted. Temples stained with blood,
loin-cloth with coloured edging, mantle with black edging,
Centre Group shoes. Golden ear decorations. The right hand holds the
8. Warrior from Mexico dressed in war doublet made of curved piece for holding the neck of the animal to be sacri-
jaguar skin. The mace is studded with hard and sharp ficed, the left holds the obsidian knife.
pieces of obsidian (a stone resembling bottle glass). Weapons 15. Indian belonging to the Mixteca tribe (civilized Indian
and utensils in ancient America belong to the Palaeolithic tribe). Fillet, mantle knotted on the right shoulder covers
Age. the loin-cloth. Shoes.
9-10. Warriors belonging to Cortez’ native goniliaty troops, 16. The king (Montezuma?) wearing gold diadem with feather
dressed in padded protective garments. The shields painted crest. Thick gold and jewelled necklace. Gold bracelets,
ot decorated with feather mosaics. On their backs symbolic gold rings below the knees, shoes. Decorated loin-cloth
emblems or those denoting their ranks. and finely woven mantle knotted in front. Lance with gold
11. Leader, Razike from Mexico with feather dress and stone point (according to a representation in the manuscript
mace. containing the genealogical tree of the Montezuma family
12. Leader from Mexico. The feather dress imitating a bird of in the Archivo general de la nacion Mejicana).
ptey. 17. Priest castigating himself like the Indian fakirs. Painted
dark like 14. On his back emblems of his priesthood. Per-
Bottom Group haps he wears a sort of feather mantle. Loin-cloth, long
Priest of the rain god Tlaloc wearing a diadem with fan-like hair. In his hand a pointed bone, the instrument of his
wings and golden ear-pegs. Otherwise he only wears the religious practice of castigating himself.

195 CENTRAL AMERICA, MEXICO, GUATEMALA AND OTHERS

(Mexico at the Beginning of the 19th Century)
Top Group 10. Rich Mexican wearing felt hat with silver braids. Leather
1. Hacendado (estate owner). Straw hat, kerchief, neck cloth, jacket, velvet trousers with silver trimming.
short leather jacket, fa/a (sash), leather trousers. Wide boots 11. Sereno (night watchman).
with spurs, sword; zarape (mantle) worn over one shoulder. (1-11 chiefly according to dolls and original costumes from
2. Maja silk dress, silk stockings, satin slippers, short sleeveless Mexico.)
jacket, the hair decorated with coloured ribbons. Bottom Group
. Mexican woman. 12. Indian fisherman.
. Water carrier. 13. Indian woman from Guatemala.
. Creole woman wearing skirt and sei ate sateen cloth.
on
WD
& 14. Half caste woman from Guatemala.
Satin slippers without stockings. (13 and 14 do not wear closed skirts, but these are large
woollen cloths draped round the body, a fashion preserved
Centre Group
from the old Indian and Mexican costume worn before the
6. Poblano (citizen). The gaily coloured zarape (cape) seems Spanish Conquest).
an imitation of old Mexican Aztec models. 15. Indian from Honduras in an attire adopted from the Spanish
7. Seminarist. settlers.
8. Girl wearing lace mantilla. 16. Native chicken vendor.
9. Creole woman wearing simple mantilla. 17. Vaquero, shepherd on horseback wearing the characteristic
costume of Mexico and Texas.

196 SOUTH AMERICA. Modern Times. (Bolivia, Chile, Peru, Colombia)

Top Group cut open in the middle in the Spanish fashion, and tied over
1. Indian woman from Bolivia with pulled-up poncho over European trousers.
another smaller poncho. 3. Indian man-servant, Bolivia. Woollen cap, poncho, loin-
2. Indian worker from Bolivia. Straw hat, poncho and apron cloth, European trousers.
 4. Chuncho (wild mountain dweller of Bolivia) with very long leather jacket, fur over-trousers (with the fur inside), large
bow. un wheel spurs, lasso.
5 and 6. Peruvians in travelling attire for the Cordilleras: felt 10. Carretero (ox-cart driver) from Chile. Felt hat, kerchief,
hat, woollen scarf, poncho made of llama wool (vicufia). leather jacket, wide leather breeches over linen ones, sash
Leggings made of leather or thick material, knife worn at round the hips, woollen stockings (without the foot part),
the knee, large silver wheel spurs. sandals.
pat Chilean country-man wearing felt hat, poncho, leggings,
Centre Group wheel spurs.
7. Araucanian (Indian from Chile) wearing kerchief, poncho,
Botiom Group
loin-cloth, all in dark colours.
8. Araucanian woman, dressed up. Over the blouse the chamal 12. Peruvian woman from the country in festive attire about
(or ciamal) which is draped from the left over the right 1825-30.
shoulder where it is fastened by a safety pin and gathered 13. Woman from Lima, the capital of Peru, dressed for church
by a girdle. Over it cape or cloth fastened with a large silver and walking with the mantilla wrapped round head and
brooch. Silver and glass beads decoration. shoulders.
9. Peon (Spanish word for low class worker) living in the 14 and 15. Women from Arequipa (Southern Peru).
country in Chile. He wears woollen cap, kerchief, poncho, 16. Man from Honda on the Magdalena river, Colombia.

NORTH AMERICA. Red Indians 197

Top Group
1. Warrior of a smaller tribe in dancing attire. The head decor- Leather leggings with knee band. Coat made of a woollen
ated with feathers. The so-called leggings are two separate coloured blanket.
pieces (also worn in Europe till about 1400) and are pulled 10. Young Sioux (as appearing once ina show group in Europe).
up to the belt, thus necessitating a special cloth drawn from Painted body, loin-cloth fur bandolier decorated with small
back to front between the legs. glass mirrors. Long hair with horse hair and feather decora-
. Iroquois Indian (living west of the Mississippi). Body tion (illustrated at his side).
painted and tattooed. A feather tuft on the scalp. Lite Chieftain. Clothes made of woven material bought from
. Man of the Crows with feather of birds of prey on his head. the whites. The tomahawk decorated with feathers encased
. Fox Indian from the central Mississippi. A crest of dyed on top. Neck decoration of bears’ claws.
horse hair on the scalp. Face painted. Bison mantle with the 12. Chieftain.
fur inside. It is only due to the trade with the white men 133 Chieftain of the Pani. Cotton tunic. Richly embroidered
that blankets have replaced the old skin and leather clothes. leggings. Ample feather decoration.
. Dyed buck skin attire ornamented with feathers the quills
of which are cut open. Bottom Group
. Great chieftain of the Dakota or Sioux (west of the Miss-
issippi and north of Arkansas). Head and back decorations 14. Mandan warrior (on the upper Missouri belonging to the
consist of eagle feathers. The trousers are decorated with Dakota tribes). Hair ornamented with jewellery and fur
the scalps of slain enemies. Buck skin clothes. Belt with strips. Roll-like neck band. Bison mantle. Leggings without
wampum ornaments, made of snails, shells and teeth (also fringes. Moccasins with wolf tails. Feather sceptre in his
necklaces and bracelets of the same kind). A scalping knife hand.
in the belt. Necklace made of bears’ claws. Lance with 15. Chieftain of the Sacs (district of Chicago). Face painted red
scalps. Tobacco pipe. Shoes made of animal skin (moccasins) with white hands on the cheeks. Cap with fur tufts. Green
similar to the primitive European shoes or opanken. woollen coat covered by a wolf skin.
. Warrior dressed for the Bison dance. Body painted, his head 16. Warrior of the Sacs. Shorn head with beard (very sparse
decorated with horns and skin of a bison and feathers. with the Red Indians). Woollen tunic; leather breeches, knee
Hanging down from the back the head and gutted body bands made of skunk skin, turned-up moccasins. Toma-
of a dead raven. Moccasins decorated with wolf tails. hawk decorated with animals’ tails.
Painted leather shield. In his right hand the old-fashioned 17: Chieftain of the Grosventres on the prairies.
breaker with stone head (left below: skull breaker made of 18. Red Indian of the upper Missouri. Bison mantle with the
hard wood, above right: tomahawk with iron blade). sun painted on it.
10% Chieftain of the Cvih Indians. Body painted with dark
Centre Group stripes. (below):
8. Iowa chieftain wearing beaver cap with feather. Bison coat 20. Chieftain of the Chippeway or Ojibway originally living
decorated with drawings commemorating his achievements. between Lakes Michigan and Huron but who retreated to
In his hand a wooden skull breaker. the district near Lake Superior.
9. Chieftain of the Sacs from the Mississippi. Doublet em- Partly according to Maximilian, Prinz zu Wied: Reise durch
broidered with glass beads. Necklace made of animal claws. Nordamerika. 2. vols. 1838-41.

71
 ~*~

198 NORTH AMERICA. Red Indians

Top Group
1. Woman from Kiowa with a girdle studded with metal. 8. Man belonging to the Shoshoni tribe.
2. Canadian Red Indian woman wearing leather clothes and 9. Young Red Indian of a northern tribe in a decorated leather
with basket for carrying a baby. attire with fur cap.
3. Woman from Dakota wearing a painted mantle made of 10. Warrior of the Cvih Indians.
hairless painted animal’s skin. 11. Red Indian from Kansas.
4. Child of the Assiniboin Indians with earrings made of glass 12. Red Indian from Nebraska.
beads.
5. Woman of the Snake Indians. Bottom Group
6. Woman of the Cvih Indians. 13. Red Indian from Colorado belonging to the Yuma tribe;
1 and 2. According to Lampert: Volker der Erde ; 3-6 accord- his body decorated with war paint.
ing to Maximilian, Prinz zu Wied: Reise durch Nordamerika. 14. Chieftain of a tribe of the Apaches from Arizona.
1838-41). 15 and 16. Man and woman belonging to the North American
Red Indians.
Centre Group 17. Pueblo Indian from Arizona and New Mexico.
7. Red Indian from Utah. 18. Lipan chieftain in dancing attire.

199 NORTH AMERICA. End of the 18th to the End of the 19th Centuries
Trappers, Bed Indians, Soldiers, Cowboys

Top Group Bottom Group

1-4. Trappers (men setting traps for wild animals, hunters of 11. Cowboy in cotton blouse. Leather belt for pistol and cart-
fur-bearing animals, pathfinders in leather and fur attires. ridges. Leather leggings (unconnected) reaching up to the
5. Captain Meriwether Lewis 1805. hips (similar to Red Indian leggings) over other trousers
with fringes; pockets sewn on.
Centre Group
6. Light foot soldier. 12. Cowboy seated with sheepskin outer trousers, large leather
7. Chief of the Seminole, an Indian tribe which migrated from gauntlets.
Georgia to Florida in 1750, fought many battles against the 14. Leather doublet, velvet trousers with leather pieces sewn on.
armies of the United States and after the war 1835-42 were High-heeled boots with very large leather spur bands.
for the most part transferred to the Red Indian Territory.
Cotton tunic with iron decorations on his chest. Cloth 15. Cowboy wearing hat with silver embroidered band and
gaiters. Ostrich feather. rim. Red Indian leather doublet, bead embroidered gaunt-
8. Marine on leave (gala dress). lets (native work). Leather outer trousers with side fasten-
9. Sailor. ing. On the wall: harness and lasso, a saddle under the
seat.
10. Infantry officer. 1-10 types as described by Cooper in his
novels (for instance: The Pathfinder in the last decades of 11-15. According to original drawings and North American
the 18th century. representations.

200 ESKIMOS. NORTHERN PEOPLE (Europe, Asia, America). Modern Times

Top Group
1-4. Samoyede family. 12-14. Young woman, man and old woman of the Greenland
5. Tunguse on snow shoes. Eskimos. The doublet (#imiak) is pulled over the head, is
Centre Group made of bird or seal skins or reindeer hide, and has a hood
and an outer cover mostly made of imported cotton in
6. Tunguse shaman (sorcerer-priest) from the Yenissei river
present times. Seal skin trousers, the bare feet covered by
in Siberia, Government of Irkutsk. Leather attire with iron
fur-lined leather boots (kamiks).'Trimmings of dog’s skin. —
ornamentation: little bells, bands, mask and ghost drum.
Women often wear the timiak without hood and they like
7 and 8. Voguls-Ostyaks: dealer in furs and mammoth tusks.
gay colours in the cotton outer covering. Their trousers
The Voguls, a tribe belonging to the Ugrians live on the
decorated with fur strips or leather embroidery ate usually
east slope of the northern Ural. Ostyaks in the Siberian
shorter than the men’s, but the gaily decorated kamiks
government of Tobolsk and Tomsk.
(boots) reach up to over the knee.
9 and 10. European polar explorers in their Arctic outfit.
15 and 16. Child and woman of the Chukches living in the
Bottom Group northern tundra of Siberia. Tattooing.
11. Man of the Gilyaks in the Amur district in East Siberia,
ethnographically belonging to the Ainos in Japan.

72
 INDEX-OF PLATES

—_. Ancient Egypt. Old Kingdom till about 2200 B.C. Middle King- . Europe. Middle Ages. Helmets and swords.
dom, about 2100 B.C., New Kingdom about 1530 B.C. . France. 14th century.
N . Ancient Egypt. Times of Rameses I. to Rameses III. 1350-1200 . Burgundian fashion on Flemish book illustrations (miniatures)
BEG. of the 15th century.
. Ancient Egypt. New Kingdom (about 1530 B.C.). . Burgundy. Head-dress and hait styles. 15th century.
. Ancient Egypt. New Kingdom (Late Period). . Late Middle Ages. Footwear. Pointed shoes and wooden sandals.
. Assytia and Neighbouring peoples (12th-7th centuries B.C.). . Italy. Early Renaissance. 1485-90. Mural paintings by Domenico
Babylonia and Assyria. Ghirlandajo.
NANAYW
. Western Asia in Antiquity, Sumerians, Hittites and West- . German tournament apparel.
Asiatics. . France. First half of 15th century.
. Western Asia in Antiquity, Phoenicians, Hittites, Syrians . France. (Charles VIII 1483-98, Louis XII 1498-1515).
(Canaanites). . Burgundian fashion. 1425-90.
. Mycenae, Crete, Cyprus (Aegean and Phoenician cultures, 2000 . Italian Early Renaissance. 14th century.
to 500 B.C.). . Italian Early Renaissance (about 1425-1480).
. Petsia in Antiquity and the Early Middle Ages. . Northern Italy. Early Renaissance (1440-90) under the influence
. Scythians and inhabitants of Asia Minor. (Early Greek culture). of Burgundian fashion.
. Greece. Early Period (6th and 5th centuries B.C.). . Italian Early Renaissance (1350-1500).
. Greece. Great Period of Greek Art (5th and 4th centuries B.C.). . Italy. Early Renaissance. Hair styles.
. Greece. Armour, banquets, games and music. . Germany in the Late Middle Ages. Burghers and craftsmen’s
. Late Greek town costume of the Hellenic Period on painted costume (1475-1500).
terta-cottas of the 4th century B.C. (mostly from Tanagra and . Spain in the Middle Ages (late 13th—15th centuries).
Boeotia). . Germany about 1500.
. Etruscans. About 750 B.C. . Italy. Renaissance 1520-30. According to contemporary paint-
. Rome. Men’s costume. ings.
. Rome. Ordinary people. Priestesses, women. . Germany at the time of the Reformation. Head-dress. (1500-50).
. Greece and Rome. Hair styles and head-dresses. . England at the time of the Reformation (Henty VIII, 1509-47).
. Footwear in ancient times. . Spanish fashion, 1550-80, according to contemporary paintings.
. Teutons. Prehistoric and Early Historic Periods. . Germany at the time of the Reformation. Citizens’ costume.
. Teutons. Roman Period, partly earlier. 1510-50.
. Persia. Sassanian Period in the Early Middle Ages (227-636A.D.) . Italy. Renaissance. Head-dress and hair styles. (1500-50).
Gauls, Vikings and Normans. . Italy. Early Renaissance. 1460-90.
. Rome. Equipment of soldiers and gladiators at the time of the . Italian. Renaissance about 1500.
Empire. . Germany under Burgundian influence (15th century).
. Early Christian Period. 300-600 A.D. . Germany. Mercenaries. 1500-40. Slahed garments.
. Byzantine Empire 4th-11th centuries. . Germany. Mercenaries (1520-60). The “‘trunk-hose’’.
. Monastic Orders and Orders of Knights. . Germany at the time of the Reformation (1500-30).
. Ecclesistical garments and Orders of Knights. . Germany. Spanish fashion. 1550-1600.
. Germany from the times of the Merovingians to those of the . Spain and Portugal. 1500-40. Spanish Moors, 15th century.
Hohenstaufen Emperors 500-1200. . France at the time of the Renaissance. 1500-75 (Francis I and
. Europe. Early Middle Ages (300-1000) and Byzantine Empire Henry II).
(9th-11th centuries). . France. Spanish fashion. 1560-90 (Charles IX).
. Germany. Time of the “minnesingers” and crusades, 12th—-13th . France. Spanish fashion. 1575-90 (Henry IID).
centuties. . Italy. Spanish fashion. 1590-1610.
France in the Middle Ages. 900-1400. . France. Late Spanish fashion. 1600-40. (Henry IV and Maria de
. Normans and Anglo-Saxons. 11th—14th centuries. Medici).
. Middle Ages. Armoured knights (800-1300). Crusaders (1100 to . Spain in the 16th and 17th centuries. (Spanish fashion from
1300). 1540-1660).
. Europe. Knights. 14th and 15th centuries (Burgundy, France, . Russia. 16th-17th centuries.
England, Italy, Poland). . Poland, Hungary and Ukraine 16th and 17th centuries.
. England in the Middle Ages. 10th—15th centuries. . Germany. Time of the Reformation and Spanish fashion. Paint-
. Armoured knights. France and Germany. 15th century. ings by Lucas Cranach (Father and Son, 1514-64).
. Italian monuments representing knights. 13th-15th centuries. . German citizens’ costume, about 1560-80.
. Germany. Garments of people of rank as represented by 13th . Military costume. Europe. End of the 16th century.
century sculpture. . Germany. Head-dress (Spanish fashion) 1550-1600.
. German and Burgundian knights. (1300-1380). . Germany, the Netherlands, France. Costume at the time of the
. Knights’ armour and weapons (1500-1575). Thirty-Years War (about 1630-35).

73
 ~*~

88. England. Spanish fashion (at the time of Queen Elizabeth) as . France. Brittany, Burgundy, Auvergne.
represented on contemporary pictures. . France. Normandy and Brittany.
89. Spanish court costume (about 1630-60) according to paintings . France. Beginning of 19th century.
by Diego Velasquez. . The Netherlands.
. Turkey. 16th and 17th centuries. . Scotland. 15th to 19th centuries.
. Turkey. 17th century. Costume at the Sultan’s court, represen- . Switzerland.
ted on miniatures. . Switzerland.
. Europe. Military costume 1600-1650. . Germany. North-Frisian Islands and Holstein.
. France at the time of Louis XIV. 1660-1700. . Germany. Pomerania, Mecklenburg, Brandenburg.
. France. Régence and Rococo, 1700-40. Theatre and dance. . Germany. Hanover, Hamburg, Brunswick.
. Germany. 1625-75. Citizens’ costume, partly under French in- . Germany. Westphalia and Schaumburg-Lippe.
fluence. . Germany. Hesse, Brunswick (Harz). Thuringia.
. The Netherlands, 17th century. Contemporary pictures. . Germany. Lusatia and Silesia.
. The Netherlands, 1650-80, partly under French influence. . Germany. Bavaria, Franconia, Upper-Bavaria.
. The Netherlands. Ruffs and collars, hair and beard styles in . Germany. Baden.
the 17th century. Germany. Wiirtemberg.
. England about 1640 according to etchings by Wenzel Hollar. Germany and Austria. Carinthia, Styria, Salzburg, Vorarlberg,
. France. Court dress at Versailles after engravings dating from Upper-Austria, Lower-Austria.
about 1700. . Austria and Italy. Former Austrian Alpine countries about
. France at the time of Louis XIV. 1695-1700. 1800-1850 (Tirol).
. France. Time of the Régence about 1715-20. Denmark about 1800.
. The Italian Comedy in Paris, about 1730. . Denmark. Modern times.
. Holland and England. Rococo about 1740-50. . Sweden.
. France and Germany. Rococo about 1730-60. . Norway.
. Italy. Rococo. Venice about 1750. . Bohemia, Motavia, Slovakia.
. France. Rococo. Paris street life about 1740. . Poland. 1800-1900.
. Street life in Vienna and Venice. 1770-90. . Russia. 19th century.
. France. Late Rococo. 1776. . European Russia.
. England. 1770-1800. Rococo and Late Georgian. 168. Russia. Baltic Provinces and Finland. 18th and 19th centuries.
. France. Late Rococo. Women’s hair styles, 1775-95. 169. Turban styles. (India to Northwest-Africa. 1500-1900).
. Germany and Austria. China figures’ costume. 1750-75. . Turkey. 1800-25.
. France. Rococo. 1730-75. . Turkey.
. France. Late Rococo 1775-85. 72, South-eastern Caucasus and Armenia.
. France. Late Rococo (1780-89). We. South-western Caucasus.
. Paris fashion. 1790-95. Revolution and “‘Directory’’. . Caucasus.
. French Revolution, “Directory” and Consulate. (1790-1803). LTS. Turkestan and Persia.
. Uniforms. Germany and France (1680-1790). 176. Turkestan and Asiatic Russia.
. England and France. 1800-30. French Empire (Late Georgian) CWA: Baluchistan, Afghanistan, Mongolia and Tibet.
and “‘Biedermeier”’ styles. . Afghanistan and India.
. Germany. 1815-35. “Biedermeier”’ fashion. . India 1600-1800. (Mohammedan princes).
. Europe. Uniforms. 1795-1815. Revolution till French Res- . India.
toration. . China. Costume of common folk and dignitaries.
. Prussia. Uniforms. 1730-70. . China. Costume of common folk and dignitaries.
. Germany and France. Late Rococo about 1788. . Japan. Common folk and stage costume.
. France. Paris fashions. 1830-35. (“Biedermeier” and ““Rom- . Japan. Modern folk costume and older military costume.
antic’ fashion). 185. Burma, Siam, Java.
. France and Germany. Fashion of 1850-60. The crinoline. 186. Morocco and Algeria.
. France and Germany. Fashion of 1870-75. The “tournure” 187. West-Africa and East-Africa.
(cul de Paris). 188. Algeria and Tunis.
. Spain. Turn of 18th and 19th centuries.’ 189. Egypt and East-Africa.
. Spain 1810-30. 190. Syria and Palestine. Arabia.
. Spain 19th century. Lot: Oriental footwear.
. Spain. Bull-fighting. Modern time. 192. Arabian horsemen and camel riders.
. Portugal from ca. 1820 to the present time. 193. South and Central America. 15th and 16th centuries.
132. Italy. 1800-30. 194. Mexico. Time of the discovery and conquest by Fernando
133; Italy. 1800-30. Cortez. (1519-20).
134. Italy. Modern time. 195. Central America. Mexico, Guatemala etc. Mexico in the be-
1353 Albania. ginning of the 19th century.
136. Southern Slavonia. 196. South America. Modern time (Bolivia, Chile, Peru. Columbia).
137. Hungary. 197. North America. Red Indians.
138. Rumania. 198. North America. Red Indians.
139; Greece. Modern time. LOD North America. End of the 18th to the end of the 19th cen-
140. Belgium. 19th century. turies. Trappers, Red Indians, soldiers, cowboys.
141. France and Germany. Burgundy, Savoy, Alsace and Lorraine. 200. Eskimos, Northern peoples (Europe, Asia, America).

74
 b hy out a:
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| lel iags easily
aon
 ANTIQUITY
ANCIENT EGYPT

Old Kingdom about 3000 B.

Middle Kingdom
about 2100 B, C.

Opn
6. O to

New Kingdom 1600-1100 B. C.

pete) I3. 4 15 216

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MS n ° ra 10 D US ny
ANTIQUITY

N
ANTIQUITY
ae Boe.
eo zy
HE ame
OreB
Paes
H
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on § t100 B. C.

3 ;aez oev Q 5
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Lal : : - “

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 ANTIQUITY

ANCIENT EGYPT
New Kingdom
(Late Period: Rameses I. and
Successors, 14th and 13th
Centuries B. C.)

Kings and their Retinue

Priests, Soldiers, Implements

Va
‘AY

SORES
Ae
7 Sy
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4 i
CAN ‘a
a ET a ee Sh EE ALOT TE

Priestesses, priests, etc.

ap)n val fa a <q Z Q
NEIGHBOURING
PEOPLES
12th-17th Centuries B. C.

King and Retinue

Warriors, etc.

Ha}
H H =| 2} Pwo aE o 8 Ww oO w n

Sacrificial Garments
 ANTIQUITY

BABYLONIA AND
ASSYRIA
(2800-700 B.C.)

Babylonia

CRY
ae a
Assyria, King and his Court

foo Oo TO; Lt 52

Assyrian Warriors

? —tananaann at
ANARATAAAAAAANIRS
J Aaneananannnosniinys
LARA SAAANAANENN
ANTIQUITY
ARMENIANS,
PARTHIANS,
PHILISTINES,
SUMERIANS,
HITTITES, ARABS
 ANTIQUITY

2 ea n B aa] m4 Z <q Y <<

a < Z HH of = 2 va

Crete, Palestine > Syria

Bedouins, Syria, Palestine

Hebrews
ANTIQUITY

MYCENAB, CRETE,
CYPRUS ;
(Aegean and Phoenician :
Cultures) 2000-500 B.@

ue
.

Mycenae
Tce

Crete
12-18

Cyprus
19-25
 < Z = o =) = ta

PERSIA
Antiquity and
Early Middle Ages

Ancient Persia
6th—5th Centuries B.C.

ag 2 Bi wh Gh NS

Ancient Persia
6th—5th Centuries B.C.

Persia about 600 A.D.

13-25

IO
 ANTIQUITY
i) O os = an) = Z ep) qZ
INHABITANTS
OF ASIA MINOR
8th and 7th Centuries B.C.

Scythians

I Pe "Se ey GY

Phrygians

We ©) Io II

Other Inhabitants of Asia Minor

eZ 13 14-21

EE
 <x Zz E o F
GRECE
th and 5th Centuries B.C.

st Half of 6th Century

I a3
4 558
oOfs)q Ss q 59} veyrs)G O vo g 6= 4 omoO n

Teme LO. TL I2

5th Century

ro 4. 15 06 17
 5th—4th Centuries

Chiton and Peplos

Chiton, Chlamys

us
ae)
4
GREECE

fife
Himation

Drege

QueLOn
(6)
Bl
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SIE WAKH I
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MYA
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3 : iG S
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ANTIQUITY

Mt S . PIA Mth
NS oe. wie. KZ ZL

13
 ANTIQUITY

GREECE

Armour, Banqueting, Games,

Music

14
ANTIQUITY

GREECE
Late Period
4th Century B.C.

Late Greek Town Costume

Painted Terra-cotta
Figures from
Tanagta, Boeotia
 ANTIQUITY
ETRUSCAB.NSC.
About 750

Costume
1-18
Ii,
(E>
ff

eo
\ Wives
ph

‘co

Warriors

23 24
21 22
19 20

Banquet, Dance, Music

Sie
Ww

25-35

16
 ANTIQUITY
fe O pe aa)
Men s Costume
=)

Toga, Paludamentum, Sagum

Toga, Toga, Paenula

Cucullus, etc.

17
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2 5 e) 22
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ANTIQUITY

18
ANTIQUITY

GREECE AND ROME

Ancient Hair styles and
Head-dresses

Greek Hair Styles

I-19

Roman Hair Styles

20-28

\
 ANTIQUITY

GREECE AND ROME

Footwear (Greek, Roman,
Coptic)

20
 ANTIQUITY

TEUTONS
Prehistoric to Roman Times

Teutons in Jutland
(Bronze Age 2000-800 B. C.)

Mee ane ae iS
Teutons in North Germany
(Bronze Age 2000-800 B. C.)

G 9 (br Gy a©

East Teutons (Roman Period)

Til) LS) ae EA tS

21
 ANTIQUITY

TEUTONS
Prehistoric
and Roman Times
 EARLY MIDDLE AGES

PERSIA
227-051 A.D.
Sassanian Period

Gods, Kings, Parthians,

Huntsmen, Horsemen

23
Soe ANTIQUITY

=a

A>
Mw

A&
Q
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Gauls

Gauls

Cm?
3 0 Io

Vikings and Norsemen

II Dew TS) Ty is

24
 <i Z & So - s

ROME
Soldiers, Gladiators \

Legionaries

‘
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Officers, Horsemen
Auxiliary Troops

Gladiators
TT

“nd
t
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—
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EARLY MIDDLE AGES

HARLY- GHRIS TTAN

PERIOD
300-600 A.D.

Dalmatic, Tunic

Dalmatic, Tunic

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Various Forms of Tunic and 7

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 EARLY MIDDLE AGES

BYZANTINE EMPIRE
4th-11th Centuries

Emperor’s Court
4th— 5th Centuries

Emperor’s Court 6th Century

q7 89)

jaa]iS a 5) HW(e) “Nyn O fe) yo) Hw

toth—11th Centuries

13 figeets TOA Be
MIDDLE AGES

MONASTIC ORDERS
AND ORDERS OF
KNIGHTS

Orders of Knights

Monastic Orders

6 77> 8.10) LOM

Monks and Nuns

AGES
MIDDLE

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MIDDLE AGES

GERMANY
500-1200 A.D.

Frankish Kingdom
(Merovingian and
Carlovingian Periods)
7th-9th Centuries

Frankish Men and Women

(9th-11th Centuries)

7 8 QO Sosa ee ey

Men and Women

(r1th-12th Centuries)

pe 3 ee ee 4 «5 «216 17 «18 19
 MIDDLI \GES

EARLY
MIDDLE AGES AND
BYZANTINE EMPIRE
(300-1000 A.D.)

Men, Warriors

Persons of Rank,
Emperor, Warriors

Ecclesiastics, etc.
MIDDLE AGES

GERMANY
Time of the Minnesingers
and Crusades
t2th-13th Centuries

People of High and Low Ranks

Singers and Minstrels

13 §4 rh (16) 7. SL Suere
 MIDDLE AC a ES

ee pe < Z O ca

Warriors

I Ceesred.
5 yO

Knights and Squires

T ie)

Men and Women

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33
 MIDDLE AGES

NORMANS AND
ANGLO-SAXONS
rith-14th Centuries

Warriors

Warriors

va
* Gi
aN s=" :
NEOUS
~a Nv

Peasants and Travellers

34
 MIDDLE AGES

> fe ~ a4 ea Q y, Z 2 = TH Y

ia)ie)o a isp)ie)ie)

Knights

Crusaders on Horseback

Knights in various types

of Armour

om)wD
 LATE MIDDLE AGES

< fe a O 5 a fy a ) 4 ¢ e is Y)

14th-15th Centuries

Burt gundy, England, France

Bur. eundy, Poland, France

6°) 7899 10

Italy
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eR yh?) 13 I4 15) orem

36
 MEDDEBTAGES@AND LATE MIDDLE AGES

aa vA, 0 4 <G Z Q
na } ckaes,t To)~ ss; S&SVv q 5 = ‘oe wn

10oth—13th Centuries

4 5 6

14th Century

15th Century
 LATE MIDDLE AGES

ARMOURED KNIGHTS
France and Germany
15th Century

French Knights

O & i ¢q M q a gs£
eT
vo WW

6 8 9 Io

on
O oO Ww g Ss i= M gS rc2

38
 MIDDLE AGES

ARMOURED KNIGHTS
Italy 13th-15th Centuries

Verona
Florence
Genoa

39
 MIDDLE AGES

GERMANY
Costume of People of Rank
13th Century
Naumburg, Strasburg, Bamberg

40
 LATE MIDDLE AGES

ARMOURED KNIGHTS
Germany and Burgundy
14th Century

German Knights

German Knights
69
SSS
* ay
mq
al
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Burgundian Knights

41
 LATE MIDDLE AGES

KNIGHTS’ ARMOUR

Armour, Helmets, Weapons

BRS it)

Tournament

iQ) 9S

42
 MIDDLE AGES

HELMETS AND
WEAPONS
1000-1500

er 1450

43
 LATE MIDDLE AGES

FRANCE
14th Century

Court dress

~
ae
gg

38° 9 ng)

I 3

44
 LATE MIDDLE AC x ES

BURGUNDY
15th Century

Coronation Ceremony

oe
i
OURS 6 PSC NERS
LATE MIDDLE AGES

BURGUNDY
Head-dress and Hair Styles
15th Century

Women’s Head-gear
Men’s Hats
Men’s Hair Styles

\\\,
A
AY\\
Zz

N
 LATE MIDDLE AGES
EUROPE
Footwear
14th and 15th Centuries Rg EE

Pointed shoes and wooden

Sandals

47
EARLY RENAISSANCE

PRALY
1480-1490

Florentine Middle Class Life

PFT SRO ERA BA dead i

 LATE MIDDLE AGES

KNIGHTS’ APPAREL
German
Tournament Apparel
1500-1515

. eke

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4 { —
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German Jousters about 1500

German Knights jousting (4,

about 1515

49
 LATE MIDDLE AGES

FRANCE
15th Century

Young Men of Rank

oA
By

People of Rank

Ge Sh SOW IKONS2

Ladies in Waiting

13) 4s 5, Oqaa

50
 LATE MIDDLE AGES

FRANCE
1485-1510

Court Dress

To)
 LATE MIDDLE AGES
Q

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599}N
 LATE MIDDLE AGES

ITALY %
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14th Century oad
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3
1310-1350

1340-1300

OnSe)
 EARLY RENAISSANCE

le) ee)
1H SheN i st ie}

Heralds, King

= ox}is] B Be G fos] am gS y ie) 5 te7) e) 4 a

15

Costume of Men of Rank

Rae
sabato wep
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24
 EARLY RENAISSANCE

TTALY
15th Century

Northern Italy

1435-1440

Northern Italy

1450

Onnr
EARLY RENAISSANCE

S Zé
ive)
H oe)wWiS) 7 © (2)

t4th Century

1400-1450

Coa OO)

1480-1495

H° It A au inst
 EARLY RENAISSANCE

TLALY
Head-dresses
and Hair Styles 1470-1500

57
 LATE MIDDLE AGES

GERMANY
End of 15th Century

Craftsmen and Burghers

emt
5 WO

Dancing Costume, etc.

Sem LO. 0h I2 13

Peasants, Mercenaries, Jew

ane 5 Oh Te ESS

58
 LATE MIDDLE AGES
SPAIN
13th- 15th Century

G
Burghers and Kni ghts

Z
stig
|

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Court Dress

Famous People

t3 i4 X5 26, 27 Es

59
 REFORMATION PERIOD

GERMANY
1500-1525

Citizens and Peasants

Tes nede 5 O87

Peasants

Vagrants

Pats iG) I7 18 19

60
 ~
Patricians 1520- Lt
a) )a
 REFORMATION PERIOD

GERMANY
Head-dress
1500-1550

lat Bonnet and Long Hair

Flat Bonnet
and Scholet’s Cap

Women’s Bonnets
and Net-hood
REFORMATION PERIOD ENGLAND

Time of Henry VIII.

SPAIN LATE RENAISSANCE

ES
Es
oy

han
SS
taba

az
Decco
eugene
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Lis

Time of Philip II. 1556-1598

 REFORMATION PERIOD
: GERMANY
Be, 1512 I5I0-1550

a German Citizens of all Ranks

>

Ss
Ss
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65
 RENAISSANCE

PALLY
Head-dress
and Hair Styles
1500-1550

66
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st
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LATE

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nee
AGES

67
RENAISSANCE

ITALY
about I500

Venice
Doge and his Retinue

ee Sy

Northern Italy
1505-1508

9 Io Il IZ 13

TH) 5. 6.. Ie nS 19
 LATE MIDDLE AGES

GERMANY
15th Century

1410-1460

Tes 4.5

1410-1460

1450-1470

ime 16 17 18

69
 a = By < ee m @) e) B =) = ta
DN

GERMANY
16th Century
Metcenaties

1500-1520

gS)

i Voyis 3° | |Lom
Vay=e°

70
 MILITARY COSTUME

GERMANY
16th Century
Metcenaries

1540-1550

ied) 3 4 SB

fis
REFORMATION PERIOD
GERMANY
1500-1530

Nuremberg Middle Class Women

Basle Middle Class Women

EX)
9

Men’s Furlined Mantle,

Pleated Coat
 LATE RENAISSANCE

GERMANY
1550-1600

Spanish Fashion in Germany

WSS5)2)9)

Betrothal Ceremony 1585

es

Duke Albrecht V. of Bavaria

and People of Rank
 RENAISSANCE

SPAIN
AND PORTUGAL
1500-1540

Spanish Princes and Discoverers

Wee
ee GF

Portuguese Discoverers

Spanish Moors, 15th Century

12 13 4 [5) 26 Pgs

74
 RENAISSANCE

FRANCE
1500-1575

Francis I. and his Court

1515-1550

Francis I. and his Court

about 1540-1560

C7 S39 10

Spanish Fashion
at the French Court

Drie 13 * T45 15
LATE RENAISSANCE

FRANCE
1560-1590
Spanish Fashion

Charles IX. and his Court

1560-1574

Soldiers and Citizens

1560-1580

6 7° 8 9) omen

Citizens and Peasants

1580-1590

IZ, 13 14 35) -olOmmes

 LATE RENAISSANCE

FRANCE
1575-1590
Spanish Fashion

Henry III. and his Court

Huguenots

Rg 1 (
Ova
ra OH
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Ber 9
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 LATE RENAISSANCE

Mel ALY,
1590-1610

Respectable Women and Courte-

sans

Venice and Ferrara

1590-1610

Qo a & ep iC

Milan 1604

Do D2) eae ease BS

78
 17th CENTURY

FRANCE
1600-1640

Henry IV. and his Court

oe
ap) .) g 4 — 1H> Ss G go] 4 e) ie) K HHrHi

Ge yet Sino) se)

«Messieuts 4 la mode»
1630-1640

It femets, I4 15. 6

79
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Nn

SPAIN
16th and 17th C entur 1€S

SIF etos)

Ne) N ioe) OV 10

80
 16th AND 17th CENTURIES

iam=) i?)icp)mS<q

Boyard Women, Warriors

a 7) is H Ss g me) ~Q 2) > Ss rw ge)2)

Il Iz

81
16th AND 17th CENTURIES

a© =< Z Q ae =) Z ©) <x ps>

UKRAINE

Poland

WwW

Poland

Hungary and Ukraine

uS 14
GERMANY 16th CENTURY

Reformation and Spanish Fashion 1514-1564

 LATE RENAISSANCE

©) aa 4 = Z ro
about 1560-1580
(Spanish Fashion)

Citizens’ and Craftsmen ’s Wives

from Dantzig, Cologne and Liibeck

2 a) Gee)

O 4is N Oo g “o lox}G 1@) O Hya e a & Oo ies A S ima oO n

from Nuremberg and Augsburg

6 7 89 Io

2 g PD O ° D is)=) S (3)

li L2 Ls key, ok

84
 MILITARY COSTUME

EUROPE
1550-1590

Spanish Soldiers
1555 and 1590

Spanish Soldiers
in the Netherlands 1585

Oar
6S: 6

French Soldiers about 1581

 LATE RENAISSANCE

GERMANY
N
aS Wit Head-dress 1550-1595
fey bad > s (Spanish Fashion)
ene F%
e ys. 0 Sp Aad st =

Small Cap (Toque)

Small Spanish Hats

Stiff Rufts

86
 17th CENTURY

GERMANY
AND FRANCE Para flganeAderDiya A: 5 ee Zi andfic inren isiehticS gate
Thirty Years’ War sy Ws Zz

«“Alla modo“ Costume 1629

wee steele wishtthe

1€ Refpect i
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Courtier, Women

“Alla modo” Costumé

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Time of Elizabeth and |
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 17th C EB NTURY

&
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 16th and 17th CENTURIES

TURKEY

Turkey about 1575

Tansy Aes

Turkey about 1575

(Se Gh) eh oe 1K

Women of the Seraglio,

Dervish, etc.

Ci.) 12, “C3. Deeley

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 17th CENTURY

TURKEY

Officials, Stic,

I BNS
A dD

Officers and Soldiers

Sultan’s Retinue

gI
MILITARY COSTUME

EUROPE
Military Costume during
the Thirty Years’ War
1600-1650

Musketeers and Pikemen

1600-1615

WEE ey AREAS)

Commandets
about 1630-1635

m © FS OF 10

Soldiers and Officers

1635-1050

DG si2i7 Ses
 17th CENTURY

FRAN CE
1650-— 1700 (Louis XIV.)

Officers
and People of Rank

I 2 a he ay

Louis XIV.
and People of Rank

12 13 I4 ES H
REGENCE AND ROCOCO

FRANCE
Theatre and Dancers

Italian Comedy about 1715

Dancers about 1725

7 Se OP aL Omy aa

Dancers about 1730

n2) 13) 14) 5, 16s Ru7

 17th CENTURY

GERMANY
Citizen’s Costume
1625-1675

Nuremberg, Augsburg, Cologne

The “Rhinegrave”
Breeches in Germany, etc.

Augsburg and Strasburg

Women’s Costume about 1640
 Se

Be

+
 17th CENTURY

TETH E RLANDS AND ENGLAND

96
17th CENTURY

NETHERLANDS
1650-1680

>
Dutch Citizens Costume

2 3: 4 8

OV

ice) vy 13
 17th CENTURY

NETHERLANDS
Head-dresses,
Hair Styles;
Collars and Rufts
 17th CENTURY

ENGLAND
about 1640

Noble Ladies

n
and Craftsmen s Wives
?
Citizens
Te

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Noble Ladies

II I

99
FRANCE END OF 17th CENTURY

EERE PRET

aseonae
rere

ERA CB6
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Nw
 END OF 17th CENTURY
FRANCE
1695-1700

Paris Citizens’ Costume

Mca |
BR Me
iPTE
EAD
et
St
=.

IoOl
 REGENCE

fy,m4 <q 4 &, ea

7
H INaa WwW MNN fe)

Paris Citizens

102
 STAGE COSTUME
ITALIAN COMEDY
1680-1730

103
 ROCOCO

a0 O = 4 < Z Q < Z Q
aa Za O — q vA Q
MN
I
IN+ [e} -y(2)
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104
ROCOCO

FRANCE AND GERMANY 1730-1760

 ROCOCO

TALY © nice a -Qie) 3 ~~ H NNive)le)

 ROCOCO

FRANCE
about 1740
Paris Street Life

Street-criers and Tradesmen

To 2 Byes
Tradesmen and Hawkers

6. 1773
Oo mere

Itinerant Musicians
and Street-criers

EL k2s Vesna

107
 LATE ROCOCO

VIENNA AND VENICE

Street Life 1770-1790

Z
Viennese Street-criers 1775 —/|
jo

SS ——

WL
Se

eee
4. 5. 0) 77:

Viennese Street-criers 1775

SOME lOs rT 12

Venetian Street-criers 1785

108
 LATE ROCOCO
FRANCE 1770-1780

Parisian Society

109
 LATE 18th CENTURY

ENGLAND
1770-1800

Noble Women

jaa SG opfo)a SG Ay is oO GGom° g n H Nmi ° 7 MMoyVe)

Deon 72 O19 10

ug
q GS ona oOrq fy is naGc g Dn H ™~oO’Vey 1 eo(2) (e)

It Bee yet Aa A

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 LATE ROCOCO
EUROPE
Rococo Hair Styles
1770-1790

eA
pale

‘. wn Y

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IiIt
 ROCOCO

GERMANY AND
AUSTRIA
1750-1775
Costume in China Figures

Hochst and Frankenthal

1760

Vienna and Nymphenburg

1750-1765

Meissen and others

1750

I1I2
 ROCOCO, 18th CENTURY

ea,am xq Z O ea
n

H MNise)° -1770

1730-1745

™~

1760-1770

IZ 13

or
 LATE ROCOCO

FRANCE
Louis XVI.

oO
To)

Nn
N

N
N
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114
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SS)
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fy oH H Rivne ed
REVOLUTION
FRENCH
THE
OF
PERIOD
AND
ROCOCO
LATE

115
 FRENCH REVOLUTION AND DIRECTORY

FRANCE
a

1790-1795

Revolution 1790

Revolution 1790

La
"Ste

Directory 1795

116
TURN OF 18th AND 19th CENTURIES
FRANCE
Revolution, Directory,
Consulate

Costume of the Revolution

1792-1795

Eee ars

Head-dress, Collars and Neck-

cloths 1790-1795

4 5 6° 7 “SSsOmRTO

«Incroyables et Merveilleuses»
1795-1803

io rs
 UNIFORMS

GERMANY
AND FRANCE
1680-1790

German Uniforms
1680-1690

H is) w aN

French Uniforms

4725-1757

French Uniforms
WAS)
 FRENCH EMPIRE AND ”BIEDERMEIER”

ENGLAND AND
FRANCE
1800-1830

England about 1800

France 1815

7 (8) .Q) 10% SiSieearez

France about 1825-1830

13 14 15) 16) (iy ens

TIQ
 19th CENTURY

GERMANY
1815-1835
““Biedermeier Fashion
”»

Fashion 1815-1819

OTTa2
7?RR
©
Sy

Q ow
2.2
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&
Soe
WRS

| (oe)

=
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Fashion 1834-1835

I2Z0
MILITARY COSTUME

EUROPE,
Uniforms
1795-1813

Prussia 1806-1813

Russia and others

1800-1815

SHO; On hinge te2 US) 14

France

1795-1813
 UNIFORMS

GERMANY
Uniforms
during the Reign of
Frederick the Great
1740-1786

oy
Y
SONY

NS
LATE 18th CENTURY
O (x) 4 a < Z 4
1786-1788
Fashion Almanacs
 19th CENTURY
FRANCE

Paris Fashions 1830-1835

 19th CENTURY
FRANCE AND GERMANY

AAAS 5epee

Paris and Ber lin Fashions (Cr ino line) 1850-1860

125
 19th CENTURY

FRANCE AND
GERMANY
(Cul de Paris)
1870-1875

NWN
 NATIONAL COSTUME
¢
5 PAIN
1770-1810

10 II

12 13 14 1 16

127
 j

. §
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f
COSTUME

Sy
NATIONAL

4
Sf
& 3
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8
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tS) p ™ (el
s&s S tral
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iS
NATIONAL COSTUME

SPAIN
Middle of roth Century

Malaga, Sierra Morena and

Andalusia

Andalusia, Granada

6297
2S) 1On 10

Gipsies, etc.

i les ond
 NATIONAL COSTUME

SPAIN
Bull-fighting (Modern)

PONSA <aEs SORES

130
NATIONAL COSTUME

PORTUGAL

ra)
 NATIONAL COSTUME

ITALY
19th Century

Genoa and District about 1810

pe
5 4. 5

Papal States about 1830

Guys
OO. 10

Sicily about 1830

W
NS
 NATIONAL COSTUME

ITALY
1800-1830

Northern Italy, Tuscany

yy

Ne Pity
.
Sth

a
|
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meee

|
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gd
ioe
Soe
pen

Southern Italy

Sardinia

a Yi, »)
/

Ta A

OoOo
 NATIONAL COSTUME

FrALY
about 1850-1890

Venice, Friuli, Campagna, etc.

Campagna, Calabria, Abruzzi

Find,
*9 LO: “AT

Calabria, Sardinia
NATIONAL COSTUME

ALBANIA

Inhabitants of Malis

Ko) if SvOp Omran

 NATIONAL COSTUME

SOUTHERN
SLAVONIA

Herzegovina
Dalmatia

Dalmatia
Bosnia
Montenegro

aS S) 10 Il

Bosnia
Serbia
Montenegro

12 Pan ee TO. 5 17,

136
NATIONAL COSTUME

HUNGARY
7
 NATIONAL COSTUME

RUMANIA AND
TRANSYLVANIA

Transylvania

ee

Rumania
Marmatos
Banat, etc.

Wallachia
Bukowina

mee iy. t6 17 8 19
 NATIONAL COSTUME

GREECE
Modern Times 1800-1880

Albania > Greek Islands

about 1800

2 Siem
ie kis)

Athens, Nauplia, Arcadia

4 ioe)a Ye)| Lal ioe)Se)°

Shepherds, Deputy, etc.

1879

I2 14

2
{3}
 NATIONAL COSTUME

BELGIUM
19th Century

ioe)tndS Q a ¢ ~

Flanders

Io EE

Flanders, etc.

I40
 NATIONAL COSTUME

FRANCE

Burgundy, B resse,
Sav oy

goles
te
a8

Alsace-Lorraine

9 Io

Alsace

141
 NATIONAL COSTUME

FRANCE

Brittany
Burgundy
Auvergne

Auvergne

CREO
9.) TO

Auvergne
Burgundy

14
INA LLIN SAL CU SOLOUME

FRANCE

Brittany

2 3p 4S

on) 1O

16
 NATIONAL COSTUME

FRANCE

Normandy

Guyenne
Dauphiné
Auvergne

Provence
Matche, etc.

144
NATIONAL COSTUME

NETHERLANDS
rgth Century

Island of Walcheren

Island of Marken

Volendam
 NATIONAL COSTUME

SCOTLAND

15th—-1 i th Centuries

17th-18th Centuries

19th Century

10 Il

146
 NATIONAL COSTUME

SWITZERLAND
Beginning of 19th Centur

ice) 9 iit

147
 NATIONAL COSTUME

SWITZERLAND
Middle of 19th Century

= SSS

Po
———
LESIRTREE LTE
re
Naja
it

6 Fast
10) LO

145
 NATIONAL COSTUME

GERMANY
North Frisian Islands and
Holstein 18th-rgth Centuries

Islands of Sylt and Fohr

The Halligen, Heligoland

Holstein

We Mil HW. Las:

I49
 NATIONAL COSTUME

GERMANY

Western Pomerania

Eastern Pomerania

Mecklenburg
Brandenburg
 NATIONAL COSTUME

~
GERMANY

Hanover

‘ehh
be
has:
ii)

Hanover
Hamburg
2 eplhe

ire) ey Ms°
a= a is} es ina

Fs S a : ae4
[ea

AG
SoD
Taeon

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pe&pee

pe}
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I51
 NATIONAL COSTUME

GERMANY
Westphalia and
Schaumburg-Lippe

Westphalia

Westphalia and Waldeck

Schaumbureg-Lippe
 NATIONAL COSTUME

1
GERMANY

Hesse

Hesse

©
eo
=

niet
LOE

12 13° 44. aR

Brunswick (Harz)
Thuringia

WwW
 NATIONAL COSTUME

GERMANY
Old Lusatia and Silesia

Spreewald

Silesia

Upper Silesia
 NATIONAL COSTUME

GERMANY

Bavaria
Franconia

Senteenset”

Upper Bavaria

« «
* 8
8
«
4 s
s*
»
a

7 (3° O° M10

13) 14. ey 7,

ULOn
 NATIONAL COSTUME

GERMANY
Baden

Black Forest

4
j\

a 18)

Rhine Valley

if Roman®) 10 It

Black Forest > etc.

T2 13
 NATIONAL COSTUME

GERMANY

Wiirtemberg

eI ° II

= ie] 14 I5 16
N

157
 NATIONAL COSTUME

AUSTRIA

Carinthia > Upper Austria,

Salzburg

Styria, Lower Austria,

Salzburg

Vorarlberg, Lech Valley,

Otztal
 NATIONAL COSTUME

AUSTRIA AND ITALY

Tyrol 1800-1850

Pustertal, Zillertal,
Bregenz Forest

Ei 2 =1304; 5 Omar

Pustertal, Otztal,
Brenner Pass

3 Oe LOW it ere

Grédnertal, Bolzano

T3. 14 15) TOs a7

159
 NATIONAL COSTUME

DENMARK
about 1800

Zealand and Amager

Amager

Cu mOEEG)
“TO — IT

Amaget

160
 NATIONAL COSTUME

7 DENMARK
Modern Times
f
\

6. 7 8: Jo) Biommre

i2, 13 L4 “is eae

I61
 NATIONAL C OSTUME

SWEDEN

ea
YN 3 o vu Gq =| @ a.Qu n

Skane, etc.

162
 NATIONAL COSTUME
4
NORWAY

Z fo) bal aeoO WHel

oo 4 Ss reyQu Da

34 Sao

Western Norway

H° IL

Southern Norway

13

163
 NATIONAL COSTUME

BOHEMIA, MORAVIA,
SLOVAKIA

Bohemia
”

gOS
6S
Baan

ia

Moravia

IO Il

Slovakia

104
 NATIONAL COSTUME

POLAND
1800-1900

Galicia

Lowicz, etc.

SO; POs amet LZ

Tey. Laas 16 ii

165
 QO
~- vo Ss
. -

n
a ga op
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ee
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go} AE
fo) a ie}
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€
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5 Cae
eat
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Oy & . mo
"

}
cesses
nee RL@iG
NATIONAL
COSTUME

166
 NATIONAL COSTUME

EUROPEAN RUSSIA

Great Russians, White Russians

De
rie ar baie

Little Russians (Ukrainians)

6." 7 SO,10

Little Russians, Don Cossacks

LT 2") 18 4 4S hee

167
 NATIONAL COSTUME

BALTIC PROVINCES
AND FINLAND

Latvia, Estonia

Omem TO.

Finland, Estonia

passim wes
ar

168
 NATIONAL COSTUME

TURBAN STYLES
India to Northwest
Africa

ue

169
 NATIONAL COSTUME

TURKEY
1800-1825

Janizaries, etc.

Soldiers and Women

jane 9 IO Tt /4r2

Dignitaries, Seraglio

170
NATIONAL COSTUME

HH 5 jaamM iadSs
OV
H re}Gq O vo G pb5 hao!
a

Albania,
Macedonia,
Constantinople

Constantinople

7, (879 IO Il 12

Ankata,
Constantinople
 NATIONAL COSTUME

?
RUSSIA, CAUCASUS
rgth Century

Tcherkesses, etc.

Georgians, Armenians, etc.

Kurds, Tartars, etc.

o Wp,

4
aS
Hy
>

wig
 NATIONAL COSTUME

SOUTH-WESTERN
CAUCASUS

Imeritians, Adighe, Laze

Armenians, Turks, Kurds

18

173
 NATIONAL COSTUME

SOUTH-EASTERN
CAUCASUS AND
ARMENIA

Tcherkesses, etc.

ise) + wD

Grusians (Georgians),
Kabardians, Armenians

Kurds, Tartars, Daghestan

rz

174
 NATIONAL COSTUME

TURKESTAN AND
IRAN (PERSIA)

West-Turkestan and Bokhara

ercea
yes -C

7 3 10,7 10) Nua

3 14 3X5) 26° 17m

175
 NATIONAL COSTUME

me
WEST TURKESTAN
AND ASIATIC
RUSSIA

Turkestan and Bokhara

Shh ek teen:

Bashkirs, Kirghiz

Tartars, Kalmucks

13 ce eS TO. 7

170
 NATIONAL COSTUME

ca z = a O an = < z
Ze

<q x,©) an) =e Z pe im <q Z

MONGOLIA AND
TIBET

Baluchistan, Afghanistan

ey

Tibet, Tunguses

1k 12

2
4 Chinese East-Turkestan,
Buriats, Dunganians

13 I4 15) 160 17 VESme

177
 NATIONAL COSTUME

AFGHANISTAN
AND INDIA

Afghanistan

I Baas 415

India

Opec: 9 Io LT

India
INDIA, 16th AND 17th CENTURIES

INDIA
Mohammedan Princes
1600-1800

16th and 17th Centuries

16th and 17th Centuries

18th Century
 NATIONAL COSTUME

s A& ss
= 3 ygoO < HH ©

Bombay, Madras

I 2

Ceylon and South India

13 14 15

180
 NATIONAL COSTUME AND DIGNITARIES’ COSTUME

CHINA
19th Century

National Costume

1,2.
3 45a

Dignitaries’ Costume

7 8 <Q LOE

Women’s Costume

[3 14 %5 Oma

181
 NATIONAL COSTUME AND DIGNITARIES’ COSTUME

CHINA
1gth Century

Dignitaries’ Costume

Women’s Costume
NATIONAL COSTUME

JAPAN

Officers, Ladies

I 3 4, <b Omen

Actors

H° Il

Monks, Musicians, etc.

H N 13 14 5, 6) see
 NATIONAL COSTUME

JAPAN

Priests, Pilgrims, etc.

H rN) w as on

Sedan-chair bearers, etc.

G7) 8 9 LO Eo

Samurai, etc.

184
NATIONAL COSTUME

fa zs) fe = é 2) = 2 ai<< b <

Burma, Siam

45h ae

Java

Io uit

Java
 NATIONAL COSTUME

[RG 3=
MAROCCO AND
ALGERIA

Morocco

Algeria

186
 NATIONAL COSTUME

WEST AND EAST

AFRICA

Senegal

Wee
Be Oe

Nubia, Abyssinia, Somaliland,

Swahili, Zanzibar

Somali, Abyssinia, etc.

TS 04) 5)" otO\ ot 7

187
 NATIONAL COSTUME

ALGERIA AND TUNIS

Cm6S) Oo

12 t3 14 15 t7

188
 NATIONAL COSTU ME
Lt

sa o) ra a. gy < Z Q
HAST APRICA:

Egypt

IAD

ea}
Ss n ra <q ate1S)os
aa!

T5 17

189
 No}
2

A
° om ms co
2us M 2= -” n
-—
ra)
|
H oy S 4 a,
2 et: airs
a < ae
; ¢ s ed
ete ep) ere

al & Se
# pH
ms} MS 3 Oy
NATIONAL
COSTUME

190
 NATIONAL COSTUME

: | ORIENTAL
FOOTWEAR

IQI
 NATIONAL COSTUME
\BIAN HORSEMEN
Hotse and
Camel Harness

192
 1 j
4%

ox

4
Pa Es
a
,

. aah. ae Veta
- Ee aa aes ae he ee‘

om
;
ae
ne
Din
ae oe
Cel ef) eee
oh

“ 7 ae
i!

ba

a]

4 oe
’
1

wd ‘
id *

pr.a ae
ke
, ott
a : Sg
¢ ' —_ = ¢
a 7

li ed OSE

ij ’

Fi
 NATIONAL COSTUME

SOUTH AND
CENTRAL AMERICA
15th and 16th Centuries

Incas in Peru

I 2 3 7

Incas in Peru

jo eae) 10 inks 12

&
Ancient Mexico

13 ie E56: XG

193
 NATIONAL COSTUME

ANCIENT MEXICO
about 1519-1520

Warriors

Warriors

3 ©) Io Il ite

Priest > Kin g, etc.

16 q7,

194
 Ss é
N
85
Ne) 3}
&es a
a
ase tS
CENTRAL

~
RS
2)
(eo) oS
iy
-g ron
© 4a g°
oO
Py x rt
AMERICA
Modern Times

c
Mexico

Mexico
MY ~

U7 an ie a *

195
 NATIONAL COSTUME

SOUTH AMERICA
Modern Times

Bolivia, Peru

Chile

Peru, Colombia

I2 I3 4 aheeene

196
 NATIONAL COSTUME

NORTH AMERICA
Red Indians

Iroquois, Crows, Foxes,

Dakota Sioux

Iowa, Sacs, Sioux, Pani

SeROuON
Tr 12 13

Mandan, Sacs, Grosventres,

Cvih, etc.

197
 NATIONAL COSTUME

NORTH AMERICA
Red Indians

Kiowa, Canada, Dakota,

Assiniboin, Cvih

Di 2 3h CASeo

Utah, Shoshoni, Kansas,

Nebraska

7 8 9, 10 Sie

Colorado, Apaches, Pueblos,

Lipan, etc.

13 24 D5 D6: agers

198
 NATIONAL COSTUME
NORTH AMERICA
Cowboys and
Soldiers

199
 re * NATIONAL COSTUME

ESKIMOS

Siberia

723.4 5

Siberia, Polar Explorers

Cae
o 9 TO

Greenland

200
 ¥

%.

~
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