Dear Boatbuilder,

Thank you for choosing our Sliding Seat and Rigger Kit or Plans. This sliding seat rowing system can
be used with your Angus Rowboat or other types of rowing craft. You can also use it to convert a
canoe into a sliding seat rowboat.

This manual provides clear descriptions and illustrations to guide you through the construction
process. It is best to read through the manual before beginning building so that you familiarize
yourself with the steps.

Additional resources including a discussion forum can be found at www.angusrowboats.com. In

particular the photo gallery on this page - http://angusrowboats.com/installingriggersliding.html -
will clarify both construction and assembly of hardware.

- The Angus Rowboats Team

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 Contents

Overview…………………………………………………………………………………………………… 3

Required Materials and Tools……………………………………………………………………. 3

Assembling the Sliding Seat Frame and Rigger……………………………………………4

Epoxying the Riggers and Rail Support Frame…………………………………………….6

Fiberglassing the Rigger Tops……………………………………………………………………..8

Fiberglassing the Rigger Bottoms……………………………………………………………….9

Affixing the Hardware………………………………………………………………………………..10

Varnishing and Painting……………………………………………………………………………..12

A Few Quick Notes on Rowing……………………………………………………………………13

Plans Builders: Additional Information……………………………………………………….13

Footplate Angle Template…………………………………………………………………………..16

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Construction Manual for Sliding Seat  Sharp scissors

frame and Rigger Additional Materials Required

Overview:  Weights (a couple of bricks, a big rock, a

dumbbell, etc.)
These instructions provide information on
 Sandpaper 80-100 grit
assembling your new sliding seat rowing
system. The rig is designed to be as simple as Wood Requirements
possible for ease of construction, while
providing robust and lightweight functionality  80” of 1x6 (actual dimensions ¾ x 5 ½)
and looks. The system is made to be used in fir, spruce or pine, or other similar
many of our Angus Rowboat. It also can be used quality wood for riggers.
in other boats including canoes. Frame  124” of 1x6 (actual dimensions ¾ x
5.5”) fir, spruce, pine or other similar
assembly time is 3-4 hours, and another 2-3
wood
hours are required to assemble the hardware.
 12” of 1x8 (actual dimensions ¾ x
The following instructions apply to our full pre-
7 ¼”).
cut kits. For plans builders the instructions are
 ¼ - ½” thick plywood (11x15”) for
the same once you have cut out the parts as footplate. Quarter inch can be
illustrated in the full-sized plans. A materials list used with high quality plywood
for plans builders and additional directions can such as okoume, and thicker for
be found in the last two pages of this manual. lower quality plywood

For additional resources, we have created an Other Build Materials

information page at www.angusrowboats.com All stainless supplies are included in kit
which includes a build gallery and other
information. Please click on “builders’  Half liter of epoxy resin and hardener
resources” on the front page  One yard of 6 oz glass cloth
 Eight 2” wood screws
Required Materials  Six ¾” wood screws
 Four 1.5” wood screws (for
Only a few basic tools for full kit builders are installation of tracks that come with
required. You will also need supplies to paint or maple seat)
varnish your unit. We discuss the various  Two 2.5” long ¼ “ bolts plus nuts and
finishing possibilities at the end of this manual. washers
For those building the frame from plans, please  Two 3” long 3/8 bolts plus nuts and
refer to materials list on last page. washers
 Half litre of epoxy resin and hardener
Required tools  12x15” square of 6 mm (about
 Wrench quarter inch) plywood
 Tape Measure  One yard of 6 oz glass cloth
 Screwdriver and 1/16 drill bit  Eight 2” wood screws
 Utility knife  Six ¾” wood screws
 Pencil  Four 1.5” wood screws

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  Two 2.5” long ¼ “ bolts plus nuts and with skin, and wash clothing exposed to
washers epoxy dust from sanding prior to reuse.
 Two 3” long 3/8 bolts plus nuts and
washers About Epoxy and Fiberglass For those
unfamiliar with the process of fiberglass
Where we are situated, good quality pine construction, this is a brief overview of the
is the most economical wood, with a knot- subject. There are two key components to
free 6’ length of 1x6 costing just over $5 fiberglass structures – glass cloth, and epoxy
at Home Depot. The lengths above refer
resin. Glass cloth is exactly what it sounds
to total length required, and multiple
shorter pieces (or double-width pieces) like – a woven material made from very fine
can be used. Please refer to the plans to glass fibers (glass becomes flexible when
calculate the most economical sizes to the fibers are this fine). Epoxy resin is a
purchase according to availability in your liquid that becomes solid through a chemical
area. process when mixed with a hardener. It is
extremely hard and abrasion resistant. By
We used to recommend using fir for the combining glass cloth and epoxy resin, the
riggers since they are subjected to greater
resulting solid is stronger than either
forces than the seat frame. Fir is a strong
dense wood, however, it is quite pricy. component individually. It is essentially the
Recently, we built a set of riggers from same principle as rebar (the fiberglass)
economical pine which we rigorously reinforcing concrete (the resin). Combining
tested, and found it to be suitably strong. the two materials is a simple process. The
When using pine for the riggers, use the fiberglass is laid in position, and then a
densest (heaviest) stock available. batch of epoxy is mixed and applied to glass
using a paint brush or spatula. Once the
epoxy soaks into the glass fibers, the cloth
Safety with Epoxy – Epoxy is a hazardous
transforms from opaque to clear. Within
material. Be sure to use a respirator and
hours the epoxy hardens and you are left
disposable gloves whenever applying epoxy.
When sanding use a respirator or good dust with a resilient building material.
mask and eye protection. Avoid contact

4
Another excellent characteristic of epoxy is pieces of wood to expose face grain to offer
it also acts as an adhesive (it is one of the a secure bonding surface.
strongest glues in existence), so it can be After cutting the two rigger pieces from ¾”
used for any gluing requirements in the stock, next cut steps where the pieces will be
building process. When used as an joined. This involves using a hand saw and
adhesive, epoxy can be thickened with wood chisel to cut a very precise step (removing
flour to help fill gaps and voids. exactly half the depth) in each joining piece
to present bonding faces. Be sure to cut the
Epoxy resin remains liquid until it is mixed step in the correct side of each piece to avoid
thoroughly with hardener. A chemical a painful mistake.
process takes place that transforms the Cutting steps involves precision. If you’re
mixture to a solid beginning in about 15-30 using a handsaw, first mark the shape of the
minutes depending on the temperature. It is cut on both sides. You want to remove
during the period after mixing, while the exactly half the thickness of the wood (3/8”)
epoxy is still liquid, that it is workable and and have it extend 1.5”. Cut very carefully,
can be applied to your project. It is monitoring both sides, and don’t cut right to
the line. Instead, leave a bit of material and
important to plan accordingly, so the epoxy
remove the excess carefully with a rasp and
does not start curing before you have then a file.
completed your task.
It is much easier using a router, table saw or
Cutting the Wood Pieces (2 hours) hand circular saw. The technique is to set the
blade (or router bit) depth to the exact depth
The first step is cutting out the wood pieces you wish to remove (practice on a scrap
using the plans as a guide. This is a piece beforehand). If you’re using a router
or Skilsaw, place scraps of wood of the same
straightforward process. Simply cut out the
thickness (3/4”) next to the piece you’re
various shapes from the plans, and use working on to provide a level plane to slide
masking tape to secure the paper to the the saw/router across. Clamp a straight piece
wood. Trace the outline, and use a jig saw, of wood as a guide to run your tool up
band saw, or other suitable saw to cut the against so your first cut is straight and flush
shapes. A drill and half inch bit are used to against the pencil line. Remove the
drill the oarlock bolt holes at the end of the remaining wood through multiple passes.
With a table saw, simply set the blade to the
riggers.
correct height, and then run the wood piece
The dotted line on the rigger template through in multiple passes until the material
illustrates the mid-point where the two is removed and the lap join is shaped.
riggers are joined together. Each rigger side The half-inch fender washers need to be
extends ¾” beyond this point to allow for a counter-sunk into the underside of the
lap join to be created. The lap join is 1.5” riggers so they sit flush with the adjacent
wide, meaning additional wood (1.5” in wood. This can be done easily with a 2”
total) will be required to accommodate the Forstner drill bit. Alternatively, scribe the
join. A lap joint (or more precisely half-lap) shape of the washer, and use a chisel to
involves cutting a step out of the two joining remove the required wood. Remove enough

5
wood so the outer face of the fender washers and rigger (1.5- 2 hours)
sits 1/16” below the surface of the rigger.
Mark the positions where the cross members
It is easier to cut round weight reduction
connect with the siding seat supports.
holes in the sliding seat frame with a 3”
Examine figure 1-1 to familiarize yourself
hole-cutter drill bit, rather than the oblong
with the approximate layout. Note that
shapes illustrated in the plans. When cutting
images/diagrams illustrate a slightly higher
the holes, center them between the top and
sliding seat frame – the plans provide the
bottom, and space them at least 2” apart. If
correct portrayal of the frame shape.
slots need to be cut to fit through boat
Measure exactly six inches from the rear of
frames, space the weight-reduction holes at
both wood frame supports (see figure 1-2)
least 2” from the slots.
and draw a line across the wood. To make
The plans illustrate a separate 1.5” hole to sure it is perfectly perpendicular, you can
accommodate the tracks bolt. We now use a carpenters square or measure out two
recommend simply bolting the tracks down marks from the top and bottom and run your
through one of the 3” holes. Or, in the case pencil line through these two points. Be
of our carbon fiber seat tracks, two bolts are sure that the markings on each piece of
used to affix the tracks, which are placed wood face each other. Place a cross member
approximately 5-7” from each end of the against the line, and scribe a parallel along
tracks. the other side of it. These lines mark where
the rear cross member connects with the side
A router with a ¼” rounded bit can be used panels.
to round the corners of the weight reduction
holes. Next you will scribe the position of the
forward cross member. This piece is angled
At the bottom of each cross support, cut a at 40 degrees. Please note, the forward cross
notch ¾” x ¾” centered from both sides. member angle is not the same as the angle of
These slots will accommodate small blocks the forward end of the side panels. The
epoxied to the bottom of the boat, and keep reason for this is to provide additional
the frame in position. stability (without this extra bit of footing
beyond the forward member, the rear of the
Assembling the sliding seat frame
unit can lift when rowing vigorously). To

6
mark the correct position for the forward cross The next step is to dry screw the unit together.
member, use scissors to cut out the angle Because the screws are going into the end grain
template on the last page of this manual. of the cross members, their holding power is
Position the template carefully against the marginal. It is the epoxy fillets that provide
bottom forward end of the side panel and then much of the strength and adhesion to properly
place the cross support against the paper transform the pieces into a solid robust unit.
template. Scribe around the cross support to
mark where it will be positioned. Note that the Before applying the epoxy, screw the unit
lower corner of the cross member should be together with eight 2” Robertson screws. To do
flush with the bottom of the side panels. this, simply hold the cross members securely
against the frame supports precisely within the
After scribing the cross member positions you lines you have drawn. Be sure that the panels
will now mark the holes be drilled for screwing are securely braced (large wood clamps are
the members in place. Measure 1.5” from the ideal) while screwing, so gaps don’t form
top and bottom ends, and mark with a pencil. between the cross supports and the side
Make sure your marks are centered. Using a frames. For now, this doesn’t matter too much,
1/16” drill bit, drill straight down through all however, it will be important when later
eight of the marked holes. screwing it together with epoxy, so this is a
good test run. Using a screwdriver insert screws
through the holes you have drilled and continue
screwing into the cross member. Pre-screwing
the unit will create guide holes in the cross
members, making it easier to assemble when
epoxying the unit. After ensuring the pieces are
aligned properly, disassemble the unit. Make
small marks for reference so the cross members
are re-attached in the same orientation. Slight
variations in the location of the screw holes may
cause misalignment if the cross members are
inverted, turned around, or switched from front
to back. Use a tongue depressor to create tidy
fillets at all intersecting corners. Add thickened
epoxy if necessary.

Epoxying the Riggers and Rail Support

Frame

You are now ready to glue/epoxy the rigger

arms together and the rail support frame. They
will both be glued from the same mix of epoxy,
Position of cross member scribed and drill holes
so it is important to have everything ready in
marked
advance. Run through all the procedures

7
outlined prior to mixing your epoxy. Depending Mixing the Epoxy
on the temperature, epoxy has about 15-30
minutes of work time before it starts to cure. It is extremely important to be precise when
mixing epoxy as slight errors in ratio vastly
Preparing the Riggers The two rigger arms reduce strength. The ratio is two parts epoxy to
require bonding so they become a one piece one part hardener. Use a backlight so you can
unit. This is achieved by using thickened epoxy clearly see the epoxy when you pour it into your
to bond the two components together at the graduated measuring container, and don’t be
step joints. It is necessary to have a completely sloppy. It is also important to mix thoroughly for
flat surface (floor or table) to lay the rigger on several minutes. Insufficient mixing is another
while the epoxy cures. Use a long straight edge leading cause for epoxy failure. A well
(such as a straight 2x4 – sight along it with one measured and mixed batch of epoxy is one of
eye to make sure it is straight) to ensure your the strongest glues.
floor surface is level. Place your riggers in
position for gluing, and dry fit the step joints When epoxy is used for filling gaps or creating
together. Place a piece of wax paper under the fillets, it needs to be thickened with wood flour
joint to prevent excess epoxy from bonding the so it holds form while curing.
unit to the floor. You will also need a heavy Gluing (3oz mixed epoxy required)
weight to place on top of the joint while it is the
epoxy is curing. The weight of about four For this step locate from your kit one graduated
landscaping bricks should be sufficient. If the measuring cup, the bottle of epoxy, the bottle
weight is not flat place a smooth flat object of hardener, a pair of gloves, spatula and
(such as short piece of 2x4) between the tongue depressor and the bag of wood flour.
weight(s) and the joint. You will also need a Mix exactly two oz of epoxy with one oz of
piece of waxed paper to place between the hardener and stir thoroughly for several
weights and the joint. minutes. Once the clear epoxy mixture has
been thoroughly stirred, stir in a few
tablespoons of wood flour until it is thickened
to the consistency of mustard.

Using your tongue depressor, thoroughly coat

all mating surfaces for the rigger step joints
(don’t forget the four small vertical faces). Then
place the surfaces together and press firmly
down and towards each other. Excess epoxy
that squeezes from the cracks can be cleaned
off with the supplied spatula (wipe off spatula
with paper towel so it can be reused). Next,
measure to check that the spacing between the
Landscaping bricks being used to press on joint hole centers for the oarlock pins is 63.25 inches.
while epoxy cures. If not, simply adjust slightly to achieve this

8
distance. Now lay waxed paper over the joint
and place weights over it.

You will use the remaining epoxy to bond the

track frame. Further thicken the epoxy by
stirring in several more tablespoons of epoxy
until it is the consistency of peanut butter.

Epoxy thickened to peanut butter consistency

The epoxy should be thick enough so that when

Do not cover the screw holes so you have a
you scoop out a clump, it does not flow, but visual reference for lining up the pieces when
remains stationary on the stir stick. It is
screwing (often the pencil lines become
important that it is thick enough so the fillets
obscured with epoxy).
don’t start to sag before curing.
For each join, first drive the two screws through
In order to securely join the cross members it is
the side panels so they are poking out 1/8th of
necessary to do more than just bond the mating inch. Guide them into their corresponding
surfaces. You also need to apply fillets to all the
holes in the cross supports, brace firmly (or
corners to offer additional reinforcing. An
clamp), and drive them in fully.
epoxy fillet looks the same as a bead of caulk
applied to the corner of a bath tub (see figure After screwing and gluing the sliding frame
1-3) and is formed using a tongue depressor. together, the next step is to create epoxy fillets
in each corner where the cross supports meet
The first step is to apply epoxy to the mating with side panels. Use your tongue depressor to
surfaces. This entails applying a layer of scoop epoxy into the corners. Once there is
thickened epoxy to the ends of the cross sufficient epoxy, draw your tongue depressor
members (using your tongue depressor) and
firmly along the corner to create a nice smooth
carefully coating their corresponding join curved fillet. Clean any excess using the tongue
surfaces earlier scribed. Coat each pair of depressor. Repeat with all eight corners.
mating surfaces just prior to screwing so epoxy
doesn’t get smeared around while affixing the Allow the epoxy to cure for 24 hours.
other joints.

9
Fiberglassing the Rigger Tops ( ½ - 1 hr) Riggers raised on 2x4s that don’t extend beyond
edges.
The next job is to apply a layer of fiberglass and
Be sure the rigger is firmly balance on its
epoxy to the top and bottom ends of the
supports so it doesn’t topple during the epoxy
riggers. This is a relatively quick task that is
application. Also, don’t allow the supports to
completed in two steps.
extend beyond the edges or they will interfere
Before fiberglassing the riggers spend some with the free hanging of the cloth.
time sculpting them. Using 80-100 grit paper
Place the two strips of 6” x 48” glass cloth over
sand out any unevenness at the joint, sand off
each arm of the rigger. Allow each piece of
excess epoxy, and smooth ripples or bumps
glass cloth to overlap in the center by about two
along the curved edges of the wood. The lower
inches. You will need to trim the cloth with
step will also protrude slightly at the joint and
sharp scissors to ensure each side of the overlap
will need to be sanded flush.
is parallel. Make sure the cloth conforms to the
Next, curve the upper corners by going around shapes of the rigger by running your hands
the perimeter of the rigger with router with a repeatedly across it. Ensure the glass cloth is
half inch rounded bit. Alternatively, you can positioned and overlapping correctly, and then
round the corners by planing and sanding. trim the ends about two inches beyond the end
of the riggers. Place small clean weights
Once the riggers are shaped to your (wrenches etc) to hold the cloth temporarily in
satisfaction, and perfectly smooth, they are position. Smooth the glass with your hands,
ready to be fiberglassed. and cut short vertical slits in any locations
Note: if you want to stain your sliding seat where it doesn’t fully conform to the curves.
system, the riggers will need to be stained prior
to fiberglassing. Do not sand the wood after
staining – add stain, allow to fully dry, and then
apply fiberglass.

Raise the rigger on supports such as short

pieces of 2x4 so the glass cloth is free to hang
straight down around the entire perimeter.

Fiberglass cloth overlapping in middle

Mix six oz of epoxy (two oz hardener and four

oz epoxy) and saturate the cloth using the
disposable brush supplied. First, apply large
dollops of epoxy along the length of the rigger.
The epoxy will slowly soak through the glass
cloth, and help hold it in position. Lift the

10
weights off, and continue to apply resin along around the bottom edge and any excess epoxy.
the top side, and use the brush to spread out
any puddles across the weave. Apply the resin
gently so as not to bunch or move the cloth.
The glass cloth will turn clear when it has
sufficient epoxy saturation, and you will see the
wood below. Next work the epoxy over the
curved edges (leave the end tips for last). It is
sometimes difficult to get the glass to conform
to the curved ends, but usually with enough
prodding and poking it will adhere to the
surface. If the cloth refuses to conform, you Trimming excess cloth from bottom
can cut a slit or two with sharp scissors and this
will help. Apply only as much resin as required Prior to fiberglassing, lay the two half-inch
to make the glass cloth clear. fender washers in the round cutouts on the
rigger undersides. These will be permanently
Be sure to apply resin to the cloth so that it affixed into position beneath the glass.
extends and adheres down to the bottom edge
of the rigger all the way around. Remove any Lay the two remaining pieces of cloth along the
air bubbles by prodding with the brush. If any bottom surface extending 18 inches in from the
areas are cloudy, it means there is not sufficient ends on both sides (if using pine, it is
resin saturation. Only apply enough resin to recommended to run the glass strips all along
saturate the cloth, and avoid leaving pools of the bottom and overlapping in the middle, as
epoxy over the weave. After applying the with this top). Mix 3 oz of epoxy (2 oz epoxy
epoxy, inspect the entire rigger again to make and 1 oz hardener) and saturate the cloth. The
sure everything is perfect. Allow to cure. edges of the cloth should extend straight out.
Don’t attempt to bend the cloth down the sides.
Fiberglassing the Rigger Bottoms Use the remaining epoxy to coat the bare wood
In 24 hours turn the rigger over, and cut the between the two pieces of cloth (simply paint
excess overhanging cloth from the edges with a the epoxy on with a brush).
sharp utility knife. Be careful not to tug the glass
cloth away from the rigger as it can separate.
With the rigger upside down on your table, use
a sanding block or random orbital sander to
smooth the flat bottom surface with 100 or 150
grit sandpaper Remove any lip remaining

Allow to cure.

11
Final Coats (½ hour total) sand a little bit off the corners to create a snug
fit. Next, affix the Concept2 Flexfoot foot
After the epoxy cures, trim the excess cloth supports (don’t forget the straps) to the foot
from the bottom of the riggers, and gently sand plate with the nuts and bolts provided.
(use a dust mask) off any remaining lip. You will
notice that the crisscross weave pattern of the The carbon fiber seats don’t need assembly, but
glass weave is visible through the epoxy. Two the maple seats do. Assemble the seat by
or three more coats of epoxy need to be screwing the lower axle supports to the frame
painted onto the rigger to completely fill the with 12 ½ “ pan head screws. Please examine
weave. the photos in our online gallery to view details
on how the seat is assembled. Place the plastic
Both top and bottom can be coated end stops in position at the end of the tracks.
simultaneously by placing the rigger on
Clean off any excess plastic on the stops with a
supports or blocks which sit between the utility knife to ensure they slide fully into
glassed sections on the bottom (the non-glassed
position.
wood does not need additional coats of epoxy).
Simply mix up 1.5 oz of epoxy for each coat and For tracks with maple seats: Place the tracks
use a paint brush or foam roller to apply the roughly in position on wooden frame support
epoxy. you have assembled. The flat tabs sticking out
on the tracks face inwards. Now place the seat
Affixing the Hardware (2-3 hours) on the tracks and make sure the tracks are
positioned correctly over their supports. Gently
We recommend visiting our builder’s sit on the seat, place your feet in the foot cups,
support page at www.angusrowboats.com and straighten your legs (continually making
to view the photo gallery and additional text sure the tracks are centered). The tracks should
illustrating how hardware is assembled and be positioned so there is one inch of remaining
attached to assist with this next section. track behind the wheels with your legs fully
extended. Once you have determined the
After completing the fiberglassing of the riggers primary position for the tracks, mark their
the framework is almost complete. You can positions with a pencil.
now affix the hardware. You may wish to paint
or varnish the components first, or you can
install the hardware now, and then remove
prior to painting. It is recommended to also
install the system in your boat prior to finishing.
We discuss painting/varnishing at the end of
this manual.

The plywood footplate is screwed onto the

forward cross-member with six ¾ inch Roberson
screws. Make sure the bottom of the plate sits
flush with the bottom of the cross member. If Next, you will drill holes for the bolts that
the fillets interfere with the footplate, simply secure the center of the tracks (the hex heads

12
slot into groove in underside of the tracks). the frame in position where it will sit, and note
These holes aren't pre-drilled because of the if any wood needs to be removed from the
slight variance that occurs between bases. To bottom of the frame for it to sit flush against
make sure your hole is in the right position, the hull. Use a block plane to shave off the
place the ends of each track directly over the wood, a bit at time. It doesn’t have to be exact,
round cutout below. but gaps beneath the frame shouldn’t exceed
1/8”. For narrow boats, such as the Cambridge
Tracks with carbon fiber seats: These tracks Racer, you will need to angle the base to match
affix with two bolts placed 5-7 inches from each
the hull’s profile.
end. The bolt hex heads slot into the bottom
groove along the underside of the tracks. For information on positioning of the sliding
Before bolting, place the seat in the tracks, and seat and rigger relative to the boat, please visit
set the tracks roughly in position. The tracks our “builders’ resource page” at
should be placed so they are 2” from the ends www.angusrowboats.com”. For those installing
(the opposite end from the foot brace). Be sure this system in a canoe or other style of open
that the tabs that keep the seat from coming off rowing boat, please visit our page detailing the
the tracks are slotted beneath the installation of this system in our Oxford Wherry.
corresponding tabs on the tracks. Once the This overall setup works for most open boats
tracks are affixed into position, you will need to with slight adaptations.
remove the plastic end stops to take the seat
out. Securing the sliding seat frame to your boat

Roll the seat along the tracks ensuring that the To keep the sliding seat frame from moving
wheels are centered within their respective around while rowing, it is necessary to secure it
tracks. Be sure that the tracks themselves are into position. This is achieved by epoxying
sitting symmetrically on both sides, and then blocks to the hull which brace against the sliding
measure where the bolt slot sits relative to the seat frame. The system can be adapted slightly
frame. Ideally, it should be centered, but often depending on the layout of your boat.
it may be off center slightly. This indicates If the sliding seat frame straddles one or more
where the bolt holes should be drilled. The boat frames (with the frames slotted to
bolt holes should be drilled straight down accommodate one another), such as with our
through to the highest point of the weight Oxford Wherry, this configuration will restrict
reduction holes, approximately 5-7” from either any forward and back movement of the seat
end. Bolt the tracks into position, and then test frame. Small ¾” x 1” blocks are still required (if
the seat out with the frame sitting on a flat the frame only spans one boat frame), to slot
surface. If the tracks need to be adjusted, into the notches cut in the cross supports for
simply loosen the bolts and slide forward or the sliding seat frame to provide additional
back. bracing. These blocks are epoxied to the center
of the boat, and required height varies slightly
Shaping the frame to the boat hull
depending on how much lower the center of
Generally, the bottom of the boat has a slight the boat is relative to the sliding frame.
curve where the sliding seat frame sits. Place

13
If the location of the sliding seat unit is clear of Painting the unit is the easiest and most robust
frames, two additional blocks will be required way to seal it. We find Interlux polyurethane is
on both sides of the vertical cross support to a good durable marine paint.
keep the frame from sliding fore and aft.

When gluing blocks to the hull, first sand the

hull surface to enhance adhesion. Thicken the
epoxy to mustard consistency and apply to both
mating surfaces. Place weights over the blocks A few quick notes on rowing
while the epoxy cures.
The most efficient way to row is to have about
Installing the Oarlocks four inches of crossover at the oar handles. This
allows you to reach further and move more
Use a utility knife to carefully cut out the efficiently. For first-time rowers, this feels a
fiberglass covering the half inch holes at the end little awkward at first, but with time, it becomes
of the riggers. Place oarlocks and relevant second nature. Often rowers like to space one
hardware (spacer, nut and fender washer) on oarlock slightly higher than the other make the
the ½” bolts/ through the holes and tighten the crossover more manageable. This can be
bottom nuts very tightly. achieved by inserting an additional spacer
under one of the oarlocks.
Please visit our resource page for information
on the various systems for affixing the riggers to If you find you’re hitting either end of the tracks
the boats. For canoes and open rowboats, the in your cycle, you will need to adjust the tracks
means of connecting the riggers to the vessel is slightly.
roughly the same as with our Oxford Wherry,
which is detailed on our builders resource page: Clean the tracks each time you get in the boat
http://www.angusrowboats.com/riggersliderins with an old rag. Sand and grit will wear both
tallation.html the wheels and track.

Your sliding seat/rigger assembly is now

complete and the unit can be painted.

Varnishing and Painting

The assembly can be painted or varnished. If
the wood is being stained, it will need to be
finished with varnish to fully seal the grain.
Follow the manufacturer’s directions.

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