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Discovering Diverse Content Through
Random Scribd Documents
 XVII.

MARLINESPIKE SEAMANSHIP.

WITH INSTRUCTIONS FOR MAKING SPLICES

KNOTS AND BENDS.

MARLINESPIKE.

T he amateur yachtsman should be able to make all the splices and

most of the knots in common use. This knowledge will come in
quite handy when fitting out his craft in the spring, and will save him
the expense of hiring a sailor to do the work. I have spent many
happy hours in rigging a fifteen-ton cutter, doing all the work myself
(except stepping the mast) with the aid of a boy.
A few fathoms of rope, a marlinespike, a knife, a small pot of
grease, a ball of spun yarn, another of marline and one of roping
twine, and you are equipped for work. Splicing ropes and making
fancy knots may be made a quite pleasant way of spending a
winter's evening. It keeps one out of mischief, and the art once
learned is rarely forgotten. I think if you follow my directions and
take heed of the diagrams that accompany them (which I have taken
pains to make as clear as possible) you will have no difficulty in
becoming quite expert in the use of a marlinespike.

The ends of all ropes, whether belonging to the running or

standing rigging, must be whipped with tarred roping twine or they
will unravel. Take the rope in your left hand and lap the twine round
it very tight a dozen times, taking care that the end lies under the
first turns so as to secure it. Then make a loop with the twine and
continue the lapping for four turns round the rope and the end of the
twine, as shown above. Haul taut and cut off the end.
 Eye Splice—Unlay the rope and lay the strands E, F, G at the proper
distance upon the standing part, as shown at A. Now push the
strand H through the strand next to it, as shown in B, having first
opened it with a marlinespike. Strand I is then thrust over the part
through which H was passed. Strand K is thrust through the third on
the other side. Repeat the process with each strand, and then
hammer the splice into shape with the butt of the marlinespike.
Stretch and cut off the ends of the strands. If particular neatness is
required, the strands, after having been passed through the standing
part the first time, should be halved and passed again, and then still
further tapered by being quartered before being passed for the third
and last time. An eye splice is useful. Standing rigging should have
eyes spliced in to go over the mast-head, and for dead-eyes to be
turned in, etc.
 FIG. 1.

FIG. 2.

Short Splice—Unlay the ends of two ropes of the same size and
bring their ends together, as shown in Fig. 1. Hold the rope D and
the strands A, B and C in the left hand. Pass the strand E over A and
under C of rope H and haul taut. Pass strand G over B and under A.
Pass strand F over the strand next to it and under the second. Turn
the rope round and treat the other side in the same way, when the
splice will be like Fig. 2. The single tucking of the strands will not,
however, be strong enough, and the process should be repeated on
both sides, halving the strands for the sake of neatness. This splice
is used only for rope that is not required to run through a block.

Fig. 1.

Fig. 2.
 Long Splice—Unlay the ends of the two ropes that are to be joined
some two or three feet, according to the size of the rope. Place the
two ends together, as shown in Fig. 1. Unlay strand C and lead it
back to A; then take D and lay it up in the space left by C. Do this
with the strands E and F on the opposite side. The rope will now look
like Fig. 2. Give the two middle strands, G and H, a lick of tar if the
rope is of hemp, and grease if of manilla, and knot them together
with an overhand knot, taking care that the knot is so formed as to
follow the lay of the rope. Then halve these strands and pass them
over one strand and under two. Treat the remaining strands in the
same way, after which stretch the rope well and cut off the ends of
the strands. A long splice is the neatest way there is of putting two
ends of a rope together. If well made it does not increase the
diameter of the rope, and therefore renders through blocks as
though it did not exist. If one strand of a rope is chafed through
while the other two are sound, a new strand may be put in to
replace it, and the ends may be finished off in the same way as in a
long splice.

Cut Splice—A cut splice is made the same as an eye splice, only
with two ropes instead of one.
 Overhand Knot—It is used at the ends of ropes to prevent them
from unreeving. There should always be one in the end of the
mainsheet, which is difficult to reeve again in anything like a breeze.

Reef Knot—It is always used to tie the reef points of a sail. First
make an overhand knot and then pass the ends so that they take the
same lay as the crossed parts of the overhand knot. If passed the
other way, the knot will form what sailors call a granny, which will
slip when it is subjected to a strain.
 Bowline Knot—Take the end (1) of the rope in the right hand and
the standing part (2) in the left hand. Lay the end over the standing
part and turn the left wrist so that the standing part forms a loop (4)
enclosing the end. Next lead the end back of the standing part and
above the loop, and bring the end down through the loop as shown.
This is a very useful knot.
 Running Bowline—It is made by passing the end of a rope round its
standing part and forming a bowline as in Fig. 8.

Bowline on a Bight—To make it, double the rope and take the
doubled end (1) in the right hand, the standing part (2) of the rope
in the left hand. Lay the end over the standing part, and by turning
the left wrist form a loop (3) having the end inside. Next pull up
enough of the end (1) to dip under the bight (4), bringing the end
towards the right and dipping it under the bight, then passing it up
to the left over the loop and hauling taut.
 Two Half Hitches—Pass the end of the rope round the standing
part and bring it up through the bight. This makes a half hitch.
Repeat the process and haul taut. If the knot is to bear a great
strain, seize the end back with spunyarn to the standing part.
 Timber Hitch—Pass the end of a rope round the spar, then round
the standing part b, then several times round its own part c against
the lay of the rope.

Gaff Topsail Halyard Bend—Pass two turns round the spar, then lead
the end back round the standing part and underneath all the turns,
bringing it round to its own part and back again over the two outer
turns and underneath the inner turn.

Blackwall Hitch—It is the simplest method known of making fast

the end of a rope to the hook of a tackle. The figure is self-
explanatory, the underneath part or the rope being jammed hard
and fast by the strain on the hook.
 Common Bend—Make a bight with the end of one rope, and pass the
end of the other through the bight from beneath, and round both
parts with the end under its own standing part. The greater the
strain, the faster will this bend jam.
 Magnus Hitch—Pass two round turns with the end of a rope over a
spar, then take it before the standing part, pass it again under the
spar and up through the bight.

Selvagee Strop—It is made by driving two nails into a length of

plank at a distance apart equal to the desired length of the strop.
Make fast one end of a ball of spunyarn or knotted ropeyarns to one
of the nails and pass it round the other, continuing the process until
the strop is as thick as required. Marl it down with spunyarn and sew
canvas or leather round it if intended for a block.

Grommet Strop—It is made of a single strand of rope. To make it,

lay one end over the other at the size required, and with the long
end follow the lay round until a ring is formed with three parts of the
strand all round. Finish by dividing the ends, overhand knotting, and
passing them over one strand and under the other exactly as in a
long splice. To make a neat job, use a strand from rope that has
been some time in use and is well stretched. The strand should be
about a foot more than three times the length of the strop, to allow
for the knotting. It may be wormed and covered with canvas or
leather if intended for a block.
 Fig. 19.

Fig. 20.

Fig. 21.

Fig. 22.

Figs. 19 and 20 show a Wall Knot. Unlay the end of a rope and
with the strand A in Fig. 19 form a bight, hold it down at the side B,
pass the end of the next strand C, round A, the end of strand D
round C and through the bight of A. Haul taut and the knot is made
as in Fig. 20. This can be crowned by taking strand in Fig. 21 and
laying it over the top of the knot. Then lay B over A, and C over B
and through the bight of A and haul taut. Fig. 22 shows a double
wall and double crown, which is made by letting the ends follow their
own parts round until all the parts appear double, first walling and
then crowning.
 Matthew Walker Knot—Made by unlaying the end of a rope and
taking the end A round the rope and through its own bight, the
strand B underneath through the bight of A, and the strand C
underneath through the bights of strands A and B, and hauling all
the strands taut. This knot is used principally for the ends of
lanyards. In making these knots a whipping of sailmaker's twine
should be put round the rope where the knot is to be when formed.

This illustration shows the process of worming a rope, which

consists of winding spunyarn of suitable size into the space between
the strands with the lay of the rope, so as to make the rope smooth
for parcelling. This must be done with the rope on the stretch. A
shows the spunyarn.

This illustration shows the process of parcelling and serving. After

the worming is finished wrap narrow strips of canvas—tarred, if the
rope is of hemp, and painted if it is of wire—round the rope with the
lay, secure the parcelling to the rope by marling it with twine, the
rope can then be served against the lay. Lay the serving mallet B
with its groove on the rope. Take a turn with the spunyarn round the
rope and head of the mallet, round the side next you, and two turns
on the other side and twist it round the handle. Get an assistant to
pass the ball A round the rope while you heave round the mallet.
The last half-dozen turns of the service must have the end of the
spunyarn put through them and hauled taut to secure it.
 XVIII.

WEATHER "WRINKLES"

T he boat sailer or yachtsman should be able, from close observation

of the barometer and the general appearance of the sky, to
foretell the weather with a certain degree of accuracy. The aneroid
barometer is peculiarly sensitive to all atmospheric changes, and is
thus invaluable for meteorological forecasts. A regular code of
phenomena has been formulated by meteorologists, from which I
take the following:
A rapid rise indicates unsettled weather.
A gradual rise indicates settled weather.
A rise with dry air and cold increasing in summer indicates wind
from the northward, and if rain has fallen better weather may be
expected.
A rise with moist air and a low temperature indicates a
continuance of fine weather.
A rapid fall indicates stormy weather.
A rapid fall with westerly wind indicates stormy weather from
northward.
A fall with northerly wind indicates storm with rain and hail in
summer and snow in winter.
A fall with increased moisture in the air and increasing heat
indicates southerly wind and rain.
A fall after very calm and warm weather indicates rain and squalls.
 The barometer rises for a northerly wind, including from northwest
by north to the eastward, for dry or less wet weather, for less wind,
or for more than one of these changes, except on a few occasions
when rain, hail or snow comes from the northward with strong wind.
The barometer falls for a southerly wind, including from southeast
by south to the westward, for wet weather, for stronger wind, or for
more than one of these changes, except on a few occasions, when
moderate wind, with rain or snow, comes from the northward.
A fall, with a south wind, precedes rain.
A sudden and considerable fall, with the wind due west, presages
a violent storm from the north or northwest, during which the glass
will rise to its former height.
A steady and considerable fall of the barometer during an east
wind indicates a shift of wind to the southward, unless a heavy fall of
snow or rain immediately follows.
A falling barometer, with the wind at north, brings bad weather; in
summer rain and gales; in spring snows and frosts.
If, after a storm of wind and rain, the barometer remains steady at
the point to which it had fallen, severe weather may follow without a
change in the wind. But on the rising of the barometer a change of
wind may be looked for.
The following rhymes are familiar to most sailors:
When the glass falls low,
Look out for a blow.

First rise after low,

Portends a stronger blow.

When the glass is high,

Let all your kites fly.

Long foretold—long last;

Short notice—soon past.
 The following notes may be relied on for forecasting the weather:
Red sky at sunset, fine weather.

Red sky in the morning, wind or rain, and

often both.

Gray sky in the morning, fine weather.

Hard, oily looking clouds, strong wind.

Yellowish green clouds, wind and rain.

Bright yellow sky at sunset, wind.

Pale yellow sky at sunset, rain.

Very clear atmosphere near the horizon is a

sign of more wind and often rain.

Here follow some old sailors' jingles which I heard when a boy in
the forecastle:
When rain comes before the wind,
Sheets and halyards you must mind;
When wind comes before the rain,
Hoist your topsails up again.

Evening red and morning gray

Are sure signs of a fine day;
But evening gray and morning red,
Makes a sailor shake his head.

Amateurs while on a cruise should frequently look at the

barometer and take notes of its height and enter them in the log.
The action of the aneroid barometer depends on the effect
produced by the pressure of the atmosphere on a circular metallic
chamber partially exhausted of air and hermetically sealed. This kind
of barometer is liable to changes on account of its mechanism
getting out of order, and it should be often compared with a
mercurial barometer, which from its cumbersomeness cannot be
conveniently carried in a small craft. Aneroid barometers of excellent
quality, and of about the size of an ordinary watch, are offered for
sale at a reasonable price, and a cruise should not be undertaken
without one.
A phosphorescent sea is a certain sign of continuance of fine
weather.
When porpoises come into shallow water and ascend the river
stormy weather is near.
Sea birds fly far out to sea in fine weather, but if they fly inland
bad weather may be expected.
A halo round the moon, especially if it appears distant and yet
very distinct, indicates a gale of wind and probably rain.
When the wind changes it usually shifts with the sun from left to
right. Thus an East wind shifts to West by way of Southeast, South
and Southwest, and a West wind shifts to East by way of Northwest,
North and Northeast. If the wind shifts the opposite way it is said to
"back," but this it rarely does except in unsettled weather.
The United States Signal Service has a local observer stationed at
each of the principal ports. When the "information signal," which
consists of a red pennant, is displayed, it indicates that information
has been received from the central office of a storm covering a
limited area, dangerous only for vessels about to sail to certain
points. Ship-masters and others interested will be supplied with the
necessary information on application.
A cautionary signal, which is a Yellow Flag with a white center,
indicates that the winds expected are not so violent that well found
and seaworthy vessels cannot encounter them without great danger.
A cautionary flag hoisted alone signifies that the direction of the
expected wind is doubtful.
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