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Exploring the Boundary Waters a trip planner and guide
to the BWCAW 1st Edition Daniel Pauly Digital Instant
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Author(s): Daniel Pauly
ISBN(s): 9780816642168, 0816642168
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Language: english
 EXPLORING THE
BOUNDARY WATERS
This page intentionally left blank
 EXPLORING THE
BOUNDARY WATERS

A Trip Planner and Guide to the BWCAW

Daniel Pauly

University of Minnesota Press

Minneapolis | London
The maps in this book are for information only. Do not use these maps as guides for navigation.

See the book’s companion Web site at http://www.BoundaryWatersGuide.com

for route updates and additional useful information.

Copyright 2005 by Daniel Pauly

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system,
or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording,
or otherwise, without the prior written permission of the publisher.

Published by the University of Minnesota Press

111 Third Avenue South, Suite 290
Minneapolis, MN 55401-2520
http://www.upress.umn.edu

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Pauly, D. (Daniel)
Exploring the Boundary Waters : a trip planner and guide to the
BWCAW / Daniel Pauly.
p. cm.
Includes bibliographical references and index.
ISBN 0-8166-4216-8 (pb : alk. paper)
1. Canoes and canoeing—Minnesota—Boundary Waters Canoe Area
Wilderness—Guidebooks. 2. Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness
(Minn.)—Guidebooks. I. Title.
GV776.M62B685 2005
2004026466

Printed in the United States of America on acid-free paper

The University of Minnesota is an equal-opportunity educator and employer.

12 11 10 09 08 07 06 05 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
To Laura, Matthew, and Garrett
This page intentionally left blank
 CONTENTS

ix Preface
xi Acknowledgments

1 The Natural and Human History of the Boundary Waters

29 Planning Your Trip
63 Entry South of the Echo Trail
95 Entry North of the Echo Trail
143 Entry from the Fernberg Road
195 Entry from Highway 1 and the Tomahawk Road
227 Entry North of Highway 61
277 Entry Southwest of the Gunfl int Trail
365 Entry Northeast of the Gunfl int Trail
397 Entry from the Arrowhead Trail

403 Recommended Reading

407 Outfitters, Lodges, Supplies, and Equipment
409 Forest Service Campground Locations
411 Forest Service Information
413 Index
This page intentionally left blank
 PREFACE

T
he Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness (BWCAW),
along with neighboring Quetico Provincial Park, is re-
nowned as the finest canoeing area in the world. No other
place offers such an exceptional combination of expansive and varied wilderness
canoe routes, intact natural ecosystems, and fascinating human history.
A journey through the Boundary Waters is a trip across water and time. In one
week you might paddle past a beaver lodge built three summers ago, portage through
cedar groves that were old long before the American Revolution, run your hand
along billion-year-old granite, and awaken to timeless loon calls. In addition, the
human history in this wilderness area is remarkable: the portage trails often follow
prehistoric paths used by generations of Native Americans, and the surrounding
forests once hosted mineral prospectors, big-pine loggers, and remote fishing lodges.
The purpose of this guidebook is to help you explore and discover the Boundary
Waters, whether you are planning your first trip or have already visited fift y times.
One of the great joys of wilderness travel is the satisfaction of discovery and explora-
tion as wild lands unfold before you. This guide has been written to help you discov-
er the BWCAW for yourself and has been designed with a number of basic principles
to help accomplish that goal. First, it gives you an overview of each entry point to
the Boundary Waters and important considerations for planning a trip from that
entry. Second, it provides detailed discussions of more than one hundred specific
routes (including portages you will encounter), plus advantages and disadvantages of
changes in the routes. Third, it offers a natural and historic context for your journey,
revealing fascinating information about some of the geologic forms and natural
sites you will see, and historic human activities that have occurred along the routes.
Fourth, and finally, the routes have been laid out to facilitate designing your own
journeys, however long, hard, or complex you wish them to be. The thorough index
will help you in this regard, as will the many descriptions of alternative routes and
optional side trips.

| ix |
x | Preface

In addition to the detailed content in this book, the companion Web site www
.BoundaryWatersGuide.com presents information that can be downloaded as you
plan your trip, including gear lists, overview maps, and route updates. These ma-
terials will not replace what you fi nd here but instead are a useful accompaniment
and aid in making your plans. Links to other helpful sites, including the Boundary
Waters Reservation Center and the Superior National Forest, are also provided.
The content of this book has been assembled since my first trip to the Boundary
Waters more than twenty years ago but was primarily acquired during a systematic
visit and revisit to hundreds of lakes during the past seven years. I have visited every
portage and lake described in this guide unless noted otherwise, and many lakes
were visited repeatedly. The Boundary Waters is, however, a constantly changing
ecosystem, and you should anticipate that natural fluctuations in water levels, vege-
tation, and visitor usage will modify the characteristics of some of these routes. To
maintain your safety and maximize your enjoyment in the BWCAW, keep alert for
changes in these routes.
Another objective of this guidebook is to provide users with the tools to visit the
Boundary Waters in a low-impact manner, to avoid overused routes, and to come away
with greater affection for this unique treasure. When visitors have an increased under-
standing and appreciation of the wilderness communities through which they travel,
they are more likely to give those communities the respect and care that they need.
Finally, I hope your next trip to the Boundary Waters inspires you to get involved
in its long-term protection. Visitors often assume that the Boundary Waters has
always been a remote haven free of modern intrusions and damage, and that efforts
to “protect” it are now complete. Both assumptions are false. The Boundary Waters
has experienced human impacts for thousands of years, including extreme changes
involving logging, dam building, road construction, and resort development.
In many aspects the Boundary Waters is much more wild today than it was fi ft y
or one hundred years ago, when loggers traversed the portages and dozens of homes
and lodges dotted the interior lakes. The work of many dedicated people preserved
the large expanses of roadless canoe country—and also resulted in the removal of
dozens of resorts and private cabins from the present-day BWCAW, a task that took
years to accomplish and required great sacrifice from those who owned and loved
those resorts and cabins.
Even with these advances, the Boundary Waters continues to face threats, in-
cluding damage from reckless campers. Take it upon yourself to leave your campsites
pristine, not only free of garbage but also unaltered by careless collection of firewood,
improper positioning of tents, or senseless harm to plants and animals. Also take
the time to understand current issues affecting the BWCAW, and take a stand to
protect it. Invasive species, airborne mercury pollution, and global warming all pose
real dangers to the Boundary Waters. Extensive logging occurs right up to the edge
of the wilderness, and development of homes and resorts continues on its borders.
Certainly other unknown threats will emerge in coming years and will require a new
generation of people willing to work to protect it.
 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

I
would like to thank the many people who helped make this
guide possible. Research for the manuscript required dozens
of trips in the BWCAW over a number of years to gather
accurate information for describing the many portages, lakes, and streams. I could
not have completed this research without the help of friends willing to head out on
strenuous expeditions that focused far more on data collection than simply relax-
ing, fishing, or swimming. My wife, Laura Walvoord, was a wonderful companion
on many of those challenging trips. The great assistance of Dan McGarry and
Jade Anderson, who each took more than one long journey researching this book,
contributed tremendously to this effort. Dave Hartman and John Hartman were
also essential, retracing and updating portages after the 1999 blowdown and care-
fully measuring the length of dozens of portages. Cyndee Krenos transcribed and
revised many of my notes and manuscript drafts, offering important edits along
the way.
Numerous other people gave critical input on content for this guide. The friendly
assistance of Superior National Forest personnel is much appreciated, including
help from Barb Soderberg and Jo Barnier on visitor rules and suggestions, Christina
Boston for visitor usage data, Walt Oksted for human history data, and Kendall
Cikanik for cartographic data. Joseph Geiss, Minnesota Department of Natural
Resources regional fisheries supervisor, provided a professional’s view of catch-and-
release fishing recommendations. Amy Wilkenloh of the Friends of the Boundary
Waters Wilderness was a good contact on leave-no-trace camping principles.
Later, as the manuscript was in its final stages, outfitters Steve Piragis of Piragis
Northwoods Company and Bill Hansen of Sawbill Canoe Outfitters (among others)
reviewed portions of the text and offered excellent suggestions. I am also grateful to
the staff at the University of Minnesota Press, especially editor Todd Orjala, who had
the patience to stick with this book from conception to completion, even through
false starts and substantial revisions.

| xi |
xii | Acknowledgments

Finally, I wish to express my deep gratitude to Boyd Larson, Bill Boecker Sr.,
Gary Corpron, Larry Rich, and Gary Brown. They were leaders of the Boy Scout
troop in Chaska, Minnesota, in which I was active as a boy, and they took the time
to introduce me and many others to the joys of wilderness camping. Those intro-
ductions included my first ventures into the Boundary Waters. Every young person
should be so fortunate to have such fine guides and mentors.
 THE NATURAL AND
HUMAN HISTORY OF
THE BOUNDARY WATERS

T
his chapter provides an introduction to the natural and
human forces that have shaped the present-day Boundary
Waters Canoe Area Wilderness (BWCAW) over a period of
three billion years. During this time, mountains rose from an ancient seabed, volca-
noes erupted across the region, and sheets of glacial ice scoured the rocky surface. As
the glaciers receded, plants and animals rapidly colonized exposed soil and rock.
The natural history section covers the fascinating geologic and glacial history
of the Boundary Waters, describes ecosystems that arose 10,000 years ago after the
retreat of the last glaciers, briefly introduces some of the plants and animals you may
encounter, and gives guidance on sources to learn more about them.
Humans first came to this region after the glaciers receded, probably following
caribou and other game into new habitats. The earliest humans had limited impacts
on the lake country, but the arrival of the fi rst people of European descent nearly
four centuries ago quickly changed the relationship between the environment and
humans. By the 1700s humans had become a major force of change in canoe country.
The human history discussion provides an introduction to the many people who
have called this region home, and describes some of the heroic efforts of people to
preserve the Boundary Waters for later generations to appreciate and enjoy.

Natural History
Boundary Waters Geology
The Boundary Waters is perched atop rock that is among the oldest on Earth, includ-
ing portions estimated to be nearly three billion years old. Exposed bedrock is locat-
ed throughout the Boundary Waters, making the area a fascinating history exhibit
of billions of years of geology. This history includes formation of massive mountains,
eruption of lava-spewing volcanoes, and scouring of glacial ice sheets. Each of these
geologic transformations has left its mark on the landscape, and an informed eye can
decipher these marks while paddling and portaging the wilderness waterways.

| 1 |
2 | Natural and Human History of the Boundary Waters

Once you have an appreciation for the geology of the Boundary Waters, you will
never see a portage the same way. Many of the routes in this guide describe the bed-
rock you will encounter, and the following section will help you to understand these
descriptions. In addition, you can learn more about the geology of the Boundary
Waters by reading Minnesota’s Geology by Richard W. Ojakangas and Charles L.
Matsch, which is an excellent guide to the state’s geology.
To understand the geology of the Boundary Waters, you should first consider two
essential aspects of how all rock was formed and the minerals contained within it.
All rock is formed by one of three different processes: cooling of liquid magma to
form igneous rock, deposition and aggregation of particles or chemicals to form sedi-
mentary rock, or pressure cooking of existing rock to form metamorphic rock. If you
understand these three processes of rock formation, you will have a solid foundation
for learning about the geologic history of the Boundary Waters.
The first of these processes, the cooling of molten magma to form igneous rock,
is a consequence of the immense heat and pressure under the earth’s crust. The
heat and pressure are so intense that they melt rock deep within the earth to form
magma. Rocks of different characteristics are formed depending on where the magma
cools and what types of minerals are within the magma. When the magma cools
deep under the earth, it usually cools slowly and can form large crystals within its
structure. When the magma cools at the earth’s surface, such as from volcanoes, it
usually cools rapidly and forms small or fine crystals. Thus, by looking at the crystal
size of bedrock containing the same minerals you can gain an idea of how quickly
the rock cooled and how close to the surface it was when it cooled.
Thousands of igneous rocks have been identified around the world, but for the
purposes of this geology introduction you need be concerned with only four types:
granite, rhyolite, gabbro, and basalt. These rocks all vary depending on where they
were formed and their mineral content, all are found in the Boundary Waters, and
all are encountered on routes in this guide.
The first two types of igneous rocks, granite and rhyolite, are “cousins” formed
of similar low-density materials. The difference between them is that granite formed
deeper inside the earth than rhyolite, which formed near the surface. As expected,
slow-cooling granite has relatively large crystals (of quartz), while fast-cooling
rhyolite has relatively small crystals.
The second pair of igneous rocks, gabbro and basalt, are also “cousins,” this time
formed of similar high-density materials. The difference between them is that gabbro
formed deep under the earth’s surface while basalt formed near the surface. As you
might expect, gabbro has large crystals, while basalt has small crystals. Because basalt
is very dense, it is no surprise that it forms most of the ocean floor (which is low lying),
while relatively light granite forms most of the continents (which are, obviously,
higher than the ocean floor).
When molten magma hardens deep underground, it is called an intrusive igneous
rock. When molten magma reaches the earth’s surface, it forms an extrusive igne-
ous rock. Thus, granite and gabbro are examples of intrusive igneous rocks, while
rhyolite and basalt are examples of extrusive igneous rocks.
3 | Natural and Human History of the Boundary Waters

Igneous Rock Properties

Rock Density Cooling Crystals
granite low slow large
rhyolite low fast small
gabbro high slow large
basalt high fast small

The second major type of rock is sedimentary rock. Over time, all exposed rock
is eventually weathered away. This weathering sometimes forms bits and pieces of
particles, such as sand, while at other times weathering forms dissolved salts. When
these small particles and salts accumulate and solidify over millions of years, they
form sedimentary rock.
Sedimentary rocks frequently form along ocean and lake basins, in riverbeds, and
at deltas. Any place where water or wind carries bits and pieces of eroded rock can
eventually form sedimentary rocks. Interestingly, the conditions under which sedi-
ments were deposited can be learned by examining the rocks. For example, under
some circumstances, heavier erosion components will settle out before the light
components, thereby creating layered beds. Common sedimentary rocks include
sandstone, shale, and limestone.
The third major type of rock to be discussed in this introduction to Boundary
Waters geology is metamorphics, which are rocks that had an igneous or sedimen-
tary origin but subsequently were forced underground and heated under intense
pressure to form a new type of rock. Examples of metamorphic rocks include slates
and greenstones, both of which are found in the Boundary Waters and referred to
often in this guide.
Now that you have this quick introduction to rock formation, you can use it to
understand Boundary Waters geology. Geologists believe that approximately 2.7 bil-
lion years ago, around what is now Ely, crevasses opened in a section of crust far
below the surface of an ancient ocean. Molten magma flowed from these crevasses
into the salty seawater. The magma rapidly cooled, forming dense, fine-grained basalt
having a “pillowed” texture much like a head of cauliflower. Geologists speculate
that the basalt cooled at depths of 1,000 meters or more, because it does not contain
gas cavities that would have formed if it had emerged in lower-pressure shallow
waters. The basalt formed layers as thick as 5,000 meters.
Massive volcanoes erupted, and lava flows piled on top of the pillowed basalt in the
ensuing millions of years. These flows were also initially underwater, but over time
they gained sufficient height to break the surface of the ancient ocean. Un like the
dense basalt, these flows were rhyolite, the lightweight extrusive cousin of granite.
Some of the rhyolite was formed when magma and hardened rock were expelled
from volcanic vents. The expelled material was spread for great distances, and it is
possible to identify the approximate center of the ancient volcanic activity by locat-
ing the largest expelled boulders, since these would generally not have flown as far as
smaller expelled rocks.
4 | Natural and Human History of the Boundary Waters

During this period of volcanism, and particularly after the volcanic matter
extended above the water surface, erosion gradually attacked the exposed rock
surfaces. Waters eroded the rhyolite and deposited it in beds at low spots along the
ocean floor. As is often the case, these deposits separated into graded beds with
large particles on the bottom and small particles on top. Many of these beds were
formed in what is now the central and eastern Boundary Waters. The sedimentary
beds were subsequently metamorphosed at high temperatures and pressures to form
the Knife Lake Group underlying most of the BWCAW lakes between Sea Gull
and Snow Bank. The shores of such famous lakes as Kekekabic, Ogishkemuncie,
Gabimichigami (north shore), Knife, Moose, and Birch contain extensive exposures
of the Knife Lake Group originating in metamorphosed sedimentary rocks.
In subsequent years the older basalt and rhyolite rock underwent a period of
intense folding from massive geologic forces. First, enormous bodies of granitic
magma penetrated and deformed the older volcanic-sedimentary deposits. Fault
lines formed, and earthquakes likely shook this ancient world. Unlike the preexist-
ing deposits, the granitic magma cooled and hardened deep below the surface.
The rise of these granites coincided with sinking of the surrounding basalt,
rhyolite, and sedimentary rocks. As they slowly sank into the earth, the rocks came
in contact with the new flows of granitic magma. This hot magma metamorphosed
the surrounding rocks. The ancient pillowed basalt flows that had formed on the
ocean floor transformed into a meta-basalt, much of it greenish in color. Today, this
rock is commonly referred to as “greenstone” or “Ely greenstone,” and can be found
in deposits in the general vicinity of Ely.
All of this folding, faulting, and magma intrusion led to formation of a great
mountain range 2.5 billion years ago over what is now northern Minnesota. The
newly formed mountains were slowly attacked by the elements, wearing away exposed
rock. In addition, some evidence exists that glaciers may have also worn away at the
ancient rock surface.
While the mountains were undergoing dramatic erosion, a transforming process
was occurring in the oceans of the world that would have tremendous implications
for northeastern Minnesota more than two billion years later: formation of huge iron
ore deposits. By a process that is apparently not yet completely understood, many
sedimentary deposits throughout the world became enriched with an abundance of
iron. Today, these deposits account for almost all of the commercial reserves of iron
ore on Earth, including those in northern Minnesota.
What could have caused these concentrated deposits of iron in a relatively narrow
band of sedimentary rocks? A leading theory is premised on the belief that these iron
minerals were deposited at the same time that photosynthesizing plants were first
beginning to fi ll the earth’s oceans. These plants—simple algae—consumed carbon
dioxide and released oxygen. For the first time ever, large quantities of oxygen would
have been present in the atmosphere and oceans. This oxygen would have reacted
with dissolved iron that had accumulated in the oceans from hundreds of millions
of years of erosion, and iron oxides would have been chemically precipitated in shal-
5 | Natural and Human History of the Boundary Waters

low waters as hematite (Fe2O3), magnetite (Fe3O4), iron carbonate (FeCO3), and iron
silicates.
Although the BWCAW is not commonly known for iron ore deposits, the Gun-
flint Iron Formation was created during this period and runs east-west from Gabi-
michigami Lake up toward Magnetic Lake, Gunflint Lake, and North Lake. Without
this iron formation the Paulson Mine, described later, would probably never have
been undertaken, and the Gunflint Trail not completed to its current end. Similarly,
the iron mines around Ely would not have existed, and perhaps even Ely would have
risen and fallen as a short-lived lumber town rather than the more prosperous and
longer-lived mining center that is now a recreational destination.
Geologically speaking, these iron deposits were laid down in a very short pe-
riod of time—a matter of a few million years. The erosion and sedimentation that
preceded the iron formation continued after the iron was deposited. In the Boundary
Waters an extensive area of bedrock known as the Rove Slate Formation was depos-
ited at this time along what is today the far eastern BWCAW, including Clearwater,
Alder, Pine, Caribou, Little Caribou, West Pike, and East Pike lakes. Originally
sand and mud, these deposits eventually hardened into various sedimentary rocks,
including slate, shale, argillite, and graywacke.
Approximately 1.1 billion years ago another great period of igneous rock forma-
tion occurred in what is today the BWCAW. A series of massive magma intrusions
known as the Duluth Complex formed along the southeastern BWCAW. These intru-
sions formed rock similar to the basalts originally forming the Ely greenstone. How-
ever, unlike the quick-cooling basalts that gave rise to the greenstone, the Duluth
Complex magma slowly cooled underground into a large-grained gabbro (more
properly known as diabase). Huge expanses of the southeastern BWCAW are covered
by this gabbro.
In the far northeastern BWCAW, the gabbro intruded into the sedimentary Rove
Formation, metamorphosing the sedimentary rocks and at the same time forming
sills penetrating between layers of the sedimentary rocks. Over millions of years
these layers of intrusive Duluth gabbro and metamorphosed Rove Formation were
tilted by shift ing of the continental plates into an upright position. When glaciers
arrived 10,000 years ago, they made short shrift of the slate, carving it out while only
relatively scratching the gabbro.

Glaciation of the Boundary Waters

Although the bedrock of the Boundary Waters was deposited, fractured, and re-
deposited repeatedly during the past 2.5 billion years, the series of events that most
dramatically shaped this area as we know it today started just 2 million years ago
when temperatures around the world gradually cooled to start the Great Ice Age,
also known as the Pleistocene Epoch.
Ice sheets formed as snows fell during the winter but failed to melt during the
cool summers. Over time the accumulation of snow reached epic proportions and
6 | Natural and Human History of the Boundary Waters

formed a massive ice sheet known as the Laurentide. This ice sheet was centered
in Hudson Bay and expanded and contracted across central North America over a
period of hundreds of thousands of years. Geologists studying the movements of the
Laurentide ice sheet have divided its advances into four general periods of glacial
expansion followed by warm periods of glacial retreat. These periods of expansion
have been classified as the Wisconsin, Illinoisan, Kansan, and Nebraskan glaciations,
listed from most recent to oldest.
Glaciers altered the landscape in two general manners: glacial erosion and
glacial deposition. The massive weight of glacial ice sheets has a scouring effect on
the ground they pass over. Loose rock is pulled from the ground and dragged along
with the advancing ice sheets. The carried-along rocks dig into and form scratches
and grooves in the bedrock over which they pass. These scratches, termed striae, can
be spotted along many of the lakes of the BWCAW. Look for sets of parallel lines
scratched into the rock face. The scratches typically have varying depths. Another
form of glacial erosion is the removal of large rocks from the surrounding bedrock to
create blunt-nosed hills known as whalebacks that form when a glacier moves across
a bedrock irregularity or protrusion. Glacial ice is able to essentially climb up and
over the front of the protrusion, but it often freezes to and rips loose the back side of
the protrusion, creating an irregular shape.
Glacial deposition is the other major impact of glaciation and may be of
either fine-grained powdered bedrock or larger boulders. These deposits may be
made far from their origins—even hundreds of miles away. Transported rocks,
known as erratics, are useful for determining the direction and extent of glacial
ice travel. Glacial erratics are carried along until the glacier stops advancing and
are left behind when the glacial ice melts. In some cases, the load is deposited as
a pile of rocks known as a moraine. In the Boundary Waters, you will sometimes
notice places in which mounds of boulders have been deposited, forming small
moraines.
Take a little time when you see moraines and boulders to observe how well they
match surrounding bedrock. You will be surprised how often noticeable differentia-
tion can be found. Pay attention to bedrock changes when you are going from north
to south on a route. You will, on occasion, see that some of the bedrock of northern
lakes has ended up as moraines and erratics along southern portages and lakes. I
have found this to be especially evident near Saganaga Lake. Distinctive pinkish
granite with black spots (technically tonalite) originating around Saganaga often
shows up along portages miles to the south.
In addition to the massive sheets of glacial ice that formed on the present-day
Boundary Waters, enormous Glacial Lake Agassiz also covered much of the west-
ern Boundary Waters about 11,000 years ago. Lake Agassiz stretched as far east as
present-day Basswood Lake, leaving behind clay deposits along its ancient shoreline,
high above the current shores of Basswood. Interestingly, the ancient shores of Lake
Agassiz are where some of the oldest artifacts are found in this area.
7 | Natural and Human History of the Boundary Waters

Emergence of Evolving Ecosystems

With the final retreat of the Rainy-Superior Lobe of the Late Wisconsin glaciation,
the Boundary Waters landscape was exposed for the first time in millennia to coloni-
zation by plants and animals. According to U.S. Forest Service information, north-
eastern Minnesota was probably free of glacial ice as early as 13,000 BC, at a time
when western Minnesota was still covered by sheets of ice, as was the Lake Superior
basin to the east. The initial Boundary Waters environment after the glaciers receded
was probably a wet tundralike environment with occasional shrubs, grasses, and
sedges similar to those present today around Hudson Bay, Canada. Caribou were
probably present in large numbers.
A reasonably detailed picture of the Boundary Waters ecosystem during the mil-
lennia since the ice sheets receded can be obtained by looking at lake sediment cores
taken in northern Minnesota. Notably, Lake of the Clouds, located in the BWCAW
just west of Saganaga, provides an interesting record of the plants that fi rst colo-
nized the postglacial landscape. Over 9,000 years of annual layers of lake sediment
have been recovered from the depths of Lake of the Clouds, making it a remarkable
historical repository of pollen and charcoal for most of the time since the glaciers re-
ceded. The information gathered at Lake of the Clouds and other locations indicates
that it is likely that birch and spruce were common here by 8000 BC.
Around 7000 BC the weather started to warm and get somewhat drier in the area
encompassed by the present-day Boundary Waters. Tundra plants gradually gave
way to white pine and red pine, and large mammals, including moose, became more
common.
Temperatures fluctuated over the past few thousand years, contributing to changes
in plant communities. At this time forest fires probably became the defining force of
nature. The research of the late Miron Heinselman, a Superior National Forest ecolo-
gist, shows that fires probably burned frequently throughout the forest. Smaller trees
would have been killed by these fires, but the larger red and white pine could survive
low-intensity fires and become a source of seeds for another generation of pine.
Today the BWCAW is considered to be part of a “southern boreal forest” between
the larger boreal forest to the north and the temperate deciduous forest to the south.
You will find plants such as black spruce, balsam fir, aspen, birch, and jack pine that
are common to boreal forest, as well as white pine and red pine common (at least
before logging) in more temperate forests.
One of the great misunderstandings regarding the BWCAW is that it is a homo-
geneous northern forest. Today about 20 percent of the Boundary Waters is com-
prised of lowland, nonlake areas; 60 percent is comprised of upland, nonlake areas;
and the rest is comprised of water. Most of the upland areas have shallow glacial till
deposits, with less than 40 inches to bedrock.
I strongly recommend that you learn how to identify the most common plants
of the Boundary Waters. Once you start to identify them, and especially once you
understand a bit about their biology, you will likely be hooked for life on trying to
Other documents randomly have
different content
Christina, it didn’t matter to him; it was for her sake that he would
strive to be “guid enough yet,” not for the sake of being “guid
enough” in itself. Besides, she had put the idea into his head. Surely
she would not refuse to speak to him on that one subject.
Now all this was hardly in accordance with the brave and
independent plan which Macgregor had set out to follow—to wit,
that he would not attempt to speak to Christina until he could
announce that he was a member of his uncle’s staff. Yes, love is the
great maker of plans—also, the great breaker.
Coward or not, it took courage to enter the shop.
Christina looked up, her colour deepening slightly.
“Hullo,” she said coolly, though not coldly.
It was not a snub anyway, and Macgregor walked up to the
counter. He came to the point at once.
“Wud ye advise me to try an’ get a job frae ma uncle?” he said,
distinctly enough.
“Me?” The syllable was fraught with intense astonishment.
“Ye advised me afore to try it,” he said, fairly steadily.
“Did I?”—carelessly.
It was too much for him. “Oh, Christina!” he whispered
reproachfully.
“Well, I’m sure it’s none of my business. I thought you preferred
being a painter.”
The pity was that Christina should have just then remembered
the existence of such a person as Jessie Mary, also the fact of her
own slow walk from the shop the previous night. Yet she had
forgotten both when she opened the panel at the back of the
window a few inches. And perhaps she was annoyed with herself,
knowing that she was not behaving quite fairly.
He let her remark concerning his preference for the painting pass,
and put a very direct question.
“What made ye change yer mind aboot me that night?”
“What night?” she asked flippantly, and told herself it was the
silliest thing she had ever uttered.
She had gone too far—she saw it in his face.
“I didna think ye was as bad as that,” he said in a curiously hard
voice, and turned from the counter.
Quick anger—quick compunction—quick fear—and then:
“Mac!”
He wheeled at the door. She was holding out her hand. Her smile
was frail.
“Are ye in earnest?” he said in a low voice, but he did not wait for
her answer.
She drew away her hand, gently. “Dinna ask me ony questions,”
she pleaded. “I—I didna really mean what I said that night, or this
night either. I think I was off my onion”—a faint laugh—“but I’m
sorry I behaved the way I did. Is that enough?”
It was more than enough; how much more he could not say. “I’ve
missed ye terrible,” he murmured.
Christina became her practical self. “So ye’re for tryin’ yer uncle’s
business——” she began.
“If he’ll gi’e me the chance.”
“Weel, I’m sure I wish ye the best o’ luck.”
 “Then ye think I ought to try?” This with great eagerness.
“If ye’ve made up yer mind it’s for the best,” she answered
cautiously.
He had to be satisfied with that. “Will I let ye ken if it comes off?”
She nodded. Then she glanced at her watch.
“Can—can I get walkin’ hame wi’ ye, Christina?” It was out before
he knew.
She shook her head. “Uncle said he wud come for me; he had
some business up this way. If ye wait a minute, ye’ll see him. I’ll
introduce ye. He’ll be interested seein’ ye’re a nephew o’ Mr. Purdie.”
“Oh, I couldna. I best hook it. But, Christina, I can come to-
morrow, eh?”
She laughed. “I canna prevent ye. But I’ll no’ be here in the
afternoon. Uncle’s takin’ auntie an’ me to a matinée, an’ I’ll no’ be
back much afore six.”
“Weel, I’ll meet ye at eight an’ walk hame wi’ ye.”
“Will ye?”
“Oh, Christina; say ’ay.’”
“I’ll consider it.”
And he had to be satisfied with that, too, for at this point the
noisy door opened to admit a tall, clean-shaven, pleasant-featured
man of middle-age.
“Hullo, uncle!” cried Christina.
Macgregor fled, but not without gaining a quick smile that made
all the difference in the world to him.
Ten minutes later he hurried into the home kitchen.
 “Mither, I’ve decided to leave the pentin’.” The moment he said it
his heart misgave him, and the colour flew to his face. But he need
not have doubted his parents.
“Weel, ma son,” said John soberly, “we’ll dae the best we can wi’
yer Aunt Purdie.”
“Jist that,” said Lizzie.
And that was all.
* * * * *
An urgent piece of work had to be done the following afternoon,
and he was later than usual, for a Saturday, in getting home. He
found his mother preparing to go out, and his father looking
strangely perplexed.
“She’s gaun to see yer Aunt Purdie,” said John in a whisper.
Macgregor looked from one to the other, hesitated, and went over
to Lizzie. He put his hand on her arm.
“Mither, ye’re no’ to gang. I—I’ll gang masel’.”
Then, indeed, Lizzie Robinson perceived that her boy was in
danger of becoming a man.
 CHAPTER FOURTEEN

To press the little black button at the door of his aunt’s handsome
west-end flat was the biggest thing Macgregor had ever done. As a
small boy he had feared his Aunt Purdie, as a schoolboy he had
hated her, as a youth he had despised her; his feelings towards her
now were not to be described, but it is certain that they included a
well-nigh overpowering sense of dread; indeed, the faint thrill of the
electric bell sent him back a pace towards the stair. His state of
perspiration gave place to one of miserable chillness.
A supercilious servant eyed his obviously “good” clothes and bade
him wait. Nevertheless, a sting was what Macgregor needed just
then; it roused the fighting spirit. When the servant returned, and in
an aloof fashion—as though, after all, it was none of her business—
suggested that he might enter, he was able to follow her across the
hall, with its thick rugs and pleasantly warm atmosphere, to the
drawing-room, without faltering. Less than might have been
expected the grandeur of his surroundings impressed—or depressed
—him, for in the course of his trade he had grown familiar with the
houses of the rich. But he had enough to face in the picture without
looking at the frame.
Mrs. Purdie was seated at the side of the glowing hearth,
apparently absorbed in the perusal of a charitable society’s printed
list of donations.
“Your nephew, ma’am,” the servant respectfully announced and
retired.
 Mrs. Purdie rose in a manner intended to be languid. Macgregor
had not seen the large yet angular figure for two years. With his hat
in his left hand he went forward holding out his right. A stiff, brief
handshake followed.
“Well, Macgregor, this is quite an unexpected pleasure,” she said,
unsmiling, resuming her seat. “Take a chair. It is a considerable
period since I observed you last.” Time could not wither the flowers
of language for Mrs. Purdie. “You are getting quite a big boy. How
old are you now? Are your parents in good health?” She did not wait
for answers to these inquiries. “I am sorry your uncle is not at home.
His commercial pursuits confine him to his new and commodious
premises even on Saturday afternoons.” (At that moment Mr. Purdie
was smoking a pipe in the homely parlour of Christina’s uncle,
awaiting his old friend’s return from the theatre.) “His finance is
exceedingly high at present.” With a faint smack of her lips she
paused, and cast an inquiring glance at her visitor.
Macgregor saw the ice, so to speak, before him. The time had
come. But he did not go tapping round the edge. Gathering himself
together, he leaped blindly.
In a few ill-chosen words he blurted out his petition.
Then there fell an awful silence. And then—he could hardly
believe his own ears!
There are people in the world who seem hopelessly unloveable
until you—perforce, perhaps—ask of them a purely personal favour.
There may even be people who leave the world with their fountains
of goodwill still sealed simply because no one had the courage or the
need to break the seals for them. Until to-day the so-called favours
of Aunt Purdie had been mere patronage and cash payments.
Even now she could not help speaking patronisingly to Macgregor,
but through the patronage struggled a kindliness and sympathy of
which her relations so long used to her purse-pride, her affectations,
her absurdities, could never have imagined her capable. She made
no reference to the past; she suggested no difficulties for the
present; she cast no doubts upon the future. Her nephew, she
declared, had done wisely in coming to her; she would see to it that
he got his chance. It seemed to Macgregor that she promised him
ten times all he would have dreamed of asking. Finally she bade him
stay to dinner and see his uncle; then perceiving his anxiety to get
home and possibly, also, his dread of offending her by expressing it,
she invited him for the following Sunday evening, and sent him off
with a full heart and a light head.
* * * * *
He burst into the kitchen, bubbling over with his wonderful news.
During its recital John gave vent to noisy explosions of satisfaction,
Jeannie beamed happily, Jimsie stared at his transformed big
brother, and Lizzie, though listening with all her ears, began quietly
to prepare her son’s tea.
“An’ so she treated ye weel, Macgreegor,” said John, rubbing his
hands, while the speaker paused for words.
“She did that! An’ I’m to get dooble the wages I’m gettin’ the noo,
an’ I’ve to spend the half o’ them on night classes, for, ye see, I’m to
learn everything aboot the business, an’ then——”
Said Lizzie gently: “Wud ye like yer egg biled or fried, dearie?”
* * * * *
It was nearly eight o’clock when he reached the shop, and he
decided to wait at a short distance from the window until Christina
came out. He was not going to risk interruption by the old woman or
a late customer; he would tell his wonderful tale in the privacy of the
busy pavement, under the secrecy of the noisy street. Yet he was
desperately impatient, and with every minute after the striking of the
hour a fresh doubt assailed him.
At last the lights in the window went out, and the world grew
brighter. Presently he was moving to meet her, noting dimly that she
was wearing a bigger hat than heretofore.
The affected surprise at the sight of him, but not at his eagerly
whispered announcement:
“I’ve got it!”
“Good for you,” she said kindly, and refrained from asking him,
teasingly, where he thought he was going. “It was lovely at the
theatre,” she remarked, stepping forward.
“Dae ye no’ want to hear aboot it?” he asked, disappointed,
catching up with her.
“Of course,” she said cheerfully. “Was yer uncle nice?”
“It was ma aunt,” he explained somewhat reluctantly, for he
feared she might laugh. But she only nodded understandingly, and,
relieved, he plunged into details.
“Ye’ve done fine,” she said when he had finished—for the time
being, at anyrate. “I’m afraid it’ll be you that’ll be wantin’ a private
secretary when I get that length.”
“Dinna laugh at me,” he murmured reproachfully.
“Dinna be ower serious, Mac,” she returned. “Ye’ll get on a’ the
better for bein’ able to tak’ a joke whiles. I’m as pleased as Punch
aboot it.”
He was more pleased, if possible. “If it hadna been for you,
Christina, I wud never ha’e had the neck to try it,” he said warmly.
“I believe ye!” she said quaintly.
“But it’s the truth—an’ I’ll never forget it.”
“A guid memory’s a gran’ thing! An’ when dae ye start wi’ yer
uncle?”
“Monday week.”
 “That’s quick work. Ye’ve beat me a’ to sticks. Dinna get swelled
heid!”
“Christina, I wish ye wudna——”
“I canna help it. It’s the theatre, I suppose. Oh, I near forgot to
tell ye, yer uncle was in when we got hame frae the theatre. I hadna
time to speak to him, for I had to run back to the shop. Hadna even
time to change ma dress. I think yer uncle whiles gets tired o’ bein’
a rich man an’ livin’ in a swell house. Maybe you’ll feel that way
some day.”
He let her run on, now and then glancing wistfully at her pretty,
animated face. The happiness, the triumph, he had anticipated were
not his. But all the more they were worth working for.
So they came to the place where she lived.
“Come up,” she said easily; “I tell’t auntie I wud maybe bring ye
up for supper.”
Doubtless it was the shock of gratification as much as anything
that caused him to hang back. She had actually mentioned him to
her aunt!
“Will ma uncle be there?” he stammered at last.
“Na, na. Ye’ll see plenty o’ him later on!”
“Maybe yer aunt winna be pleased——”
“Come on, Mac! Ye’re ower shy for this world!” she laughed
encouragingly.
They went up together.
Christina had a latch-key, and on opening the door, said:
“Oh, they haven’t come home yet. Out for a walk, I suppose. But
they’ll be home in a minute. Come in. There’s a peg for your hat.”
 She led the way into a fire-lit room and turned up the gas.
Macgregor saw a homely, cosy parlour, something like his
grandfather’s at Rothesay, but brighter generally. A round table was
trimly laid for supper. In the window a small table supported a
typewriter and a pile of printed and manuscript books, the sight of
which gave him a sort of sinking feeling.
“Sit down,” she said, indicating an easy-chair. “Auntie and uncle
won’t be long.”
He took an ordinary chair, and tried hard to look at his ease.
As she took off her hat at the mirror over the mantelpiece she
remarked: “You’ll like uncle at once, and you’ll like auntie before
long. She’s still a wee bit prim.”
He noticed that her speech had changed with entering the house,
but somehow the “genteel English” did not seem so unnatural now.
He supposed he would have to learn to speak it, too, presently.
“But she is the best woman in the world,” Christina continued,
patting her hair, “and she’ll be delighted about you going into your
uncle’s business. I think it was splendid of you managing your aunt
so well.”
Macgregor smiled faintly. “I doobt it was her that managed me,”
he said. “But, Christina, I’ll no’ let her be sorry—nor—nor you either.”
“Oh, I’m sure you’ll get on quickly,” she said, gravely, bending to
unbutton her long coat.
“I intend to dae that,” he cried, uplifted by her words. “Gi’e me a
year or twa, an’ I’ll show ye!”
She slipped out of the coat, and stood for a moment, faintly
smiling, in her best frock, a simple thing of pale grey lustre relieved
with white, her best black shoes, her best thread stockings, her
heavy yellow plait over her left shoulder.
 The boy caught his breath.
“Just a minute,” she said, and left the room to put away her coat
and hat.
Macgregor half turned in his chair, threw his arms upon the back
and pressed his brow to his wrist.
So she found him on her return.
“Sore head, Mac?” she asked gently, recovering from her surprise,
and going close to him.
“Let me gang,” he whispered; “I—I’ll never be guid enough.”
The slight sound of a key in the outer door reached the girl’s ears.
She gave her eyes an impatient little rub.
She laid a hand on his shoulder.
“Cheer up!” she said, almost roughly, and stooping quickly, she
touched her lips to his hair, so lightly, so tenderly, that he was not
aware.
 Transcriber’s Note

Dialect, inconsistent hyphenation, obsolete words and

misspellings were left unchanged.
The following were adjusted:

… unmoved, “an’ [added apostrophe], if …

… “He’s growin’ up, Lizzie.” [added missing close quote]
… it doesna matter.” [deleted close quote] I’ll awa’ hame.”
 *** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK COURTIN'
CHRISTINA ***

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