HVAC

Contractor Technicians Qualification

Assessment

Trainee Name: ___________________________

TABLE of Contents
IDENTIFY SAFETY EQUIPMENT, HAZARDS, PRECAUTIONS, AND RULES

Identify Requirements to Comply with Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) 3

Identify Operator's Responses in an Emergency/Disaster Situations 9
Identify Requirements to Comply with work Permit Procedures 12
Identify Requirements to Comply with Isolation & Lockout Procedures 17
Identify Requirements for the Inspection of Lifting Equipment Below-the-Hook 20

DESCRIBE PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE (PM) PROCEDURES FOR HVAC EQUIPMENT

Describe PM Procedures for Window type AC units. 23

Describe PM Procedures for Split unit. (ACCU & AHU) 31
Describe PM Procedures for Package units. 35
Describe PM Procedures for Water Chiller units. 42
Describe PM Procedures for AHU for water chiller units 45

IDENTIFY STEPS OF HVAC COMPONENT REPLACEMENT

Identify steps to remove & Install refrigeration circuit components 47

Identify steps to remove & Install compressors 57
Identify steps to remove & Install motor 63
Identify steps to remove & Install AHU Parts 62
Identify steps to remove & Install controllers 66
Identify steps to remove & Install Duct Heater 82

DESCRIBE TROUBLESHOOTING AND REPARING PROCEDURES OF HVAC EQUIPMENT

Describe troubleshooting and Repair Refrigeration compressors 85

Describe troubleshooting and Repair Motors 88
Describe troubleshooting and Repair AHU Components 89
Describe troubleshooting and Repair Controllers 93
Describe troubleshooting and Repair refrigeration circuit components 95
Describe troubleshooting and Repair Duct Heater. 100

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 Module 1 - Identify safety equipment, hazards
precautions and rules

Identify Requirements to Comply with Personal Protective Equipment (PPE)

Overview of safety

A hazard is something that can cause harm, e.g. electricity, chemicals, working up a ladder, noise,
machinery, flammable substances, etc.
A risk is the chance, high or low, that any hazard will actually cause somebody harm.
Safety Rules have been developed with input from Supervision and Employees. The rules address
behaviours and work practices that can lead to accidents and injuries.
Each employee should become familiar with and follow General and Departmental Safety Rules.
Most accidents can be prevented if everyone uses assigned safety equipment and follows the
established safety rules.

❖ Safety equipment

Safety should be a priority in the workplace, no matter the industry. All jobs are different and as a
result, so are the work conditions. Obtaining workplace safety means the right equipment, tools and
accessories. Safety gear refers to protective clothing, helmets, goggles or other garments designed to
protect your body from injury or infection. Full compliance with safety regulations is compulsory to
all employees.

What is personal protective equipment (PPE)?

Personal protective equipment (PPE) is clothing or equipment designed to be worn by employees to

protect them from the risk of injury or illness.

➢ PPE include:

• safety helmets
• hearing protective devices, such as ear muffs and ear plugs
• eye and face protection, such as safety glasses and face shields
• skin protection, such as gloves
• clothing, such as high visibility vests, life jackets and coveralls
• footwear, such as safety boots and rubber boots
• respiratory protective equipment
• fire equipment

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Where does the use of PPE fit in the risk management process?

The use of personal protective equipment is lowest on the list of control

priorities. These controls should not be relied on as the primary means of risk
control until the options higher in the list of control priorities have been
exhausted.

Therefore, PPE should only be used:

• as a last resort, where there are no other practical control measures

available
• to be a short-term measure until a more effective way of controlling the risk can be used
• together with other control measures such as local exhaust ventilation by itself during
maintenance activities

There are specific PPE requirements for working with harmful substances or in certain work activities.
Special PPE is required for working with:

• asbestos
• infectious diseases

Who provides and maintains PPE?

If PPE is required, the Employer must provide PPE to employees free of charge.

Maintenance of PPE

The employee is responsible for maintaining his PPE.

Do not reuse single use PPE for example, disposable gloves and dust
masks.

Proper care and maintenance is essential to ensure PPE continues to provide the necessary level of
protection.

• Look for broken or damaged components before using PPE and repair or replace it as needed.
• Replace PPE that has expired or reached its usable lifespan.
• Clean reusable PPE after use and store in a clean area such as a cupboard, drawer or resealable
container.
• Report broken, damaged or contaminated PPE.

Head Protection

Head injuries are a serious risk on many job sites and can affect a worker’s health in many ways. This
is why OSHA (Occupational Safety and Health Administration) has developed such exacting standards
for head protection equipment. Head protection should be worn when there is a risk of falling objects
or head bumping.

A hard hat provides excellent impact protection for the top of your head. The head is protected against
bumps and falling objects. The suspensions are adjustable for a secure, comfortable fit. The front
brims protect against UV rays, rain, and falling dust and debris.

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Inspect your hard hat every time before it is used. If it is cracked, stop work immediately and report
it. Do not drill holes or paint your hard hat. Clean with a soft damp cloth. Don’t use chemicals to clean
your hard hat.

Hearing Protection

In many industrial working sites, hearing protection is vital to ensure the employees’ safety and
health. There are mainly two effective hearing protection devices, namely, ear plugs and industrial
ear muffs. Ear protection must be used in areas where the noise level is 85 dB and higher.

Hearing protection devices should be kept clean to avoid ear infections.

Eye Protection

Many jobs require some level of face protection like safety glasses. Eyewear is critical to protect your
eyes from dust and debris.

Clean with a soft damp cloth. Do not use chemicals to clean the lenses.

Face Protection

Facial injuries can be life-changing, and that’s why face protection is vital in many industries. Metal
sparks, flying debris, splashing chemicals and dust from grinding and woodworking applications all
pose a risk. A face shield or welding helmet may not be used in the place of a hard hat!

A face shield covers the entire face and protects against dust and chemical splashes.
A welding helmet covers the entire face and protects against metal sparks and radiation.

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Do not drill holes or paint your face shield. Clean with a soft damp cloth. Do not use chemicals to
clean the shield.

Hand Protection

Safety gloves protect your hands. Hand safety must comply with OSHA (Occupational Safety and
Health Administration) requirements. Workplace safety is synonymous with hand safety. There are
many risks present in the workplace that can cause injuries to an employee’s hands, depending on the
specific industry and task. This can range from minor cuts to more serious injuries, such as the loss of
a finger or hand. Once all other measures have been taken to limit the number of risks present, safety
gloves can give additional protection to employees and allow them to conduct their work safely. The
specific type of hand protection that is needed will depend on the individual threats and the type of
work they are engaged in.

Feet protection

Safety shoes mainly protect your feet against heavy falling objects. Safety shoes should be inspected
every time before it is used. It should be replaced if worn or defective in any way.

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Work Clothing (Overalls)

Overalls should be, comfortable and provide necessary safety to employees. An employer must
provide suitable overalls to protect employees from workplace hazards that cannot be eliminated or
isolated. Such hazards could include sparks and hot particles, molten metal splashes, direct flame,
radiant heat, solvents, acids, alkalis, oil, grease, blood and body fluids, asbestos fibres, and other
hazardous substances.

High-visibility overalls may also be appropriate where people are exposed to hazards from moving
traffic, or from moving plant or equipment under the control of an on-board operator.

Respiratory Equipment

Some industries require working in environments where air quality can be compromised. Air particles,
vapours, gases, dust and insufficient oxygen can all pose respiratory safety risks for workers. With the
right respiratory equipment, the employee can safely perform his job. Gas masks, respirators and
breathing apparatus provide a safe and healthy oxygen source in unsafe air conditions.

Fire protective equipment

What does Fire Protection mean?

Fire protection refers to measures taken to prevent fire from becoming destructive, reduce the impact
of uncontrolled fire and save lives and property. It involves the implementation of safety planning
practices and drills, and includes education on fire, research, investigation, safety planning, building
construction, safe operations, training and testing of mitigating systems.

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There are three basic essentials of fire protection:
• Study of Fire: To learn the causes of fire, fire extinguishing techniques, detection and
extinguishing equipment and their uses, and the rules and regulations related to building
construction.
• Active Fire Protection: Includes manual or automatic detection of fire, the use of fire and smoke
alarms, firefighting and first aid.
• Passive Fire Protection: Design of building and infrastructures, use of fire resistance material in
construction, provision of isolating fire, fire walls and doors, smoke doors, training of
firefighting, signage, markings and evacuation of building in case of fire.
• Fire equipment is typically indicated by using red color.
• Fire protection and prevention is an everyday action.

Fire Extinguishers

Fire extinguishers are designed to tackle specific types of fire. There are six different classes of fire and
several different types of fire extinguishers.

Classes of fire

• Class A - fires involving solid materials such as wood, paper or textiles.

• Class B - fires involving flammable liquids such as Petrol, diesel or oils.
• Class C - fires involving Gasses.
• Class D - fires involving metals, like Sodium, potassium, magnesium and zirconium.
• Class E - fires involving live Electrical apparatus.
• Class F - fires involving cooking oils such as in Fat fryers.

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Follow the 4 steps below to extinguish a fire. Make sure to use the
right extinguisher.

1. Pull the pin while holding the extinguisher away from you to
unlock the mechanism.
2. Aim low toward the base of the fire.
3. Squeeze the lever slowly.
4. Sweep the nozzle from side to side at the base of the fire.

Identify Operator's Responses in an Emergency/Disaster Situations

Emergency evacuation

Your first response in an emergency or disaster situation should be to assess and identify the nature
of the emergency. Report it immediately to the responsible department. Remove all personnel from
the emergency location and prevent any increase of the emergency situation. In any
emergency/disaster situation, never risk your own safety. You should remove yourself from any
danger. While complying and adhering to all safety rules and regulations, and it is safe to do so, you
must manage first aid where necessary.

In case of an emergency situation like fire, all employees must follow the instructions of the standard
evacuation procedure plan and should immediately go to the assembly point.

Procedures to follow when you hear the Fire alarm:

Follow the Evacuation plan

• Stop with what you are doing.

• Don’t panic, stay calm.

• Identify the escape routes and Emergency Exits.

• Follow the Emergency Exit Signboards to the Exit.

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 • Leave all your belongings behind. There is no time for collection!

• Do not run. Walk in a single line.

• Use the waking aisles to exit the building.

• Stay in your group. Do not leave or wander away!

• Leave the building through the Emergency Exit.

• Walk directly to the Assembly Point.

• Wait in your group and listen to your Instructor.

• Wait until the ‘All clear’ is given before returning to the building.

First Aid

First Aid and Wound Care

First aid equipment and supplies are essential to the most basic of safety and health management
plans. Potential workplace risks can range from electrical hazards to chemical exposures to fires. You
can't predict when an accident will occur, but you can be prepared when one does. All workshops and
facilities must have easy access to first aid supplies, from bandages, gauze to ointment. All workshops
must be equipped with a basic First Aid kit.

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Hazards

What is a hazard?

A hazard is the potential for harm or an adverse effect on something or someone. For example:

• to people as health effects

• to organizations as property or equipment losses
• or to the environment

➢ What types of hazards are there? Classify hazards by category

•biological - bacteria, viruses, insects, plants, birds, animals, and humans, etc.
•chemical - depends on the physical, chemical and toxic properties of the chemical,
•ergonomic - repetitive movements, improper set up of workstation, etc.,
•physical - radiation, magnetic fields, pressure extremes (high pressure or
vacuum), noise, etc.
•psychosocial - stress, violence, etc.
•safety - slipping/tripping hazards, inappropriate machine guarding, equipment
malfunctions or breakdowns.

Examples of Hazards and Their Effects

Workplace Hazard Example of Hazard Example of Harm Caused
Thing (Object) Knife Cut
Substance Benzene Leukaemia
Material Asbestos Asbestosis
Source of Energy Electricity Shock, electrocution
Condition Wet floor Slips, falls
Process Welding Skin burns

Workplace hazards also include practices or conditions that release uncontrolled energy like:

• an object that could fall from a height (potential or gravitational energy)

• a run-away chemical reaction (chemical energy)
• the release of compressed gas or steam (pressure; high temperature)
• entanglement of hair or clothing in rotating equipment (kinetic energy)
• contact with electrodes of a battery or capacitor (electrical energy)

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 Risk

A risk is the potential of losing something of value. Values, such as physical health, social status,
emotional well-being, or financial wealth, can be lost when taking risks resulting from a given action
or inaction, foreseen or unforeseen, planned or unplanned. A risk can also be defined as the
intentional interaction with uncertainty.
Uncertainty is a potential, unpredictable, and uncontrollable outcome of an event. A risk is a
consequence of an action taken in spite of uncertainty.

➢ Risk assessment

Risk assessment is a term used to describe the process or method where you identify hazards and risk
factors that have the potential to cause harm (hazard identification). A Risk assessment must be
completed before any task, job or work is done.

Identify Requirements to Comply with work Permit Procedures

Work Permits

The Permit to Work system:

The Permit to Work System provides a systematic disciplined approach to assessing the risks of a job
and specifying the precautions to be taken when performing hot work and/or working in a confined
space. The Permit to Work system:

• specifies the work to be done and the equipment to be used

• specifies the precautions to be taken when performing the task
• gives permission for work to start
• advises fellow employees that work is being performed within their vicinity
• provides a check to ensure that all safety considerations have been taken into account, including
the validity of permits and certificates and compliance to the company’s policies and procedures
• provides a checking mechanism that all work has been completed to satisfaction

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 Responsible officer

An employee of the Company who has been trained and authorized and has satisfactory knowledge
of the hazards at a work site to be able to specify a system to eliminate the risks in a particular job.

Safety Representative

It is the safety representative’s responsibility to determine if and when special measures are required.

Permit issuer

It is an appointed and competent person that is authorized to issue work permits.

Permit receiver

It is an appointed and competent person that is authorized to do work on equipment.

➢ Work not requiring a permit

Activities involving routine production and process operations where there is no electricity or no
moving parts involved, including startup, changes in operational modes and shutdowns do not
require a Permit to Work. Routine work includes first line maintenance carried out by operations
personnel such as topping up oil/water or tuning controllers.

Normally, the activities of inspectors, surveyors and engineers will not require a Permit to Work,
provided their presence in the operational area is approved in advance by the Responsible Officer and
their activity does not interfere with plant or equipment.

➢ Permit to work

A work permit ensures that the work can be carried out safely. Activities undertaken in certain
environments can be very dangerous and hazardous to the workers' safety and health. Restricted
areas or restricted activities have been designated by the responsible department manager. All
employers must be committed to ensure that exposure to hazardous work environments due to hot
work and entry into confined spaces is minimized.

Therefore, a Permit to Work is required for all work performed involving hot work and working in
confined spaces. Permits to Work can only be obtained from the designated Responsible Officer. The
same form requires completion after the work has been done and must be returned to the same
officer of issuance (issuer).

However, safety requirements and work practices differ from workplace to workplace and need to be
adhered to.

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➢ Hot work

Hot work includes all work with the potential to create a source of ignition. This includes grinding,
welding, flame soldering, oxygen cutting or heating, and any other related heat or spark producing
operations.

Hot work Permit procedure

Hot work must not begin until the appropriate level of authority has approved the Permit for Work.
The following procedure must be followed when an employee or contractor wishes to perform hot
work.

• The employee or contractor approaches the appropriate Responsible Officer for permission to
work in an area requiring a Hot Permit to Work.
• The responsible officer decides whether requested work requires a Permit to Work. If a Permit to
Work is required the employee or contractor completes the Permit to Work form and submits to
the Responsible Officer.
• When satisfied that the employee or contractor has provided sufficient information, safety
precautions and is suitably trained to perform the task to specification, the responsible officer will
issue the Permit to Work.
• On arrival at the hot work area the employee or contractor notifies the appropriate person within
the building/area that they have arrived to perform specified work. The appropriate person in the
workplace is either the chief administration officer or departmental manager.
• Prior to beginning work the employee or contractor ensures that there is no combustible material
such as paper, wood, gas bottles near to their work that could lead to a fire with the introduction
of the hot work.
• The employee or contractor completes his work as detailed in the Permit to Work and his job
specifications. He is then required to remain at the work area for at least 30 minutes after work
has been completed to ensure that there is no possibility of fire.
• When leaving the work area the employee or contractor is required to advise the appropriate
person within building or area that work has been completed and that they are leaving the
building or area.
• The employee or contractor returns the Permit to Work to the Responsible Officer once task has
been completed.
• The Responsible Officer signs the Permit to Work and files it for future reference, once he is
satisfied that the work has been completed to job specifications and safety requirements.

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➢ Confined space

Confined space is considered to be any area which, deficient in oxygen or contain flammable/toxic
vapours and gases. Confined spaces usually have limited openings for entry and exit, and
unfavourable natural ventilation. They are generally not designed for continuous worker occupancy.

Confined spaces may be any size and includes; Storage tanks, boilers, pressure vessels, silos, open
topped spaces of more than 1.5m depth such as pits that are not subject to good natural ventilation,
pipes, sewers, shafts, ducts, air handler units, etc.

Confined space work must not begin until the appropriate level of authority has approved the Permit
to Work. The following procedure must be followed when an employee or contractor wishes to
perform work in confined spaces.
• The employee or contractor approaches the appropriate Responsible Officer for permission to
work in an area requiring a Confined Space Permit to Work.
• Responsible Officer decides whether requested work requires a Permit to Work.
If a Permit to Work is required the employee or contractor completes the Permit to Work form
and submits to the Responsible Officer. Details provided on the Permit to Work includes work
required, work environment and safety precautions e.g. gas detection equipment that will be
taken when preparing, performing and completing the task.
• At least two people must be present when performing work in a confined space at all times.
• When satisfied that the employee/contractor has provided sufficient information, safety
precautions and is suitably trained to perform the task to specification the Responsible Officer
will issue the Permit to Work.
• On arrival at the permit work area the employee or contractor notifies the appropriate person
within the building or area that they have arrived to perform specified work. The appropriate
person in the workplace is either the chief administration officer or departmental manager.
• If required, toxic, hazardous or oxygen gas detection is to be performed prior to entry in the
confined space and is to continue until all works have been completed in the confined space.
• Employee or contractor completes work as detailed in the Permit to Work.
• Employee or contractor advises appropriate person within building or area that work has been
completed and that they are leaving the building or area.
• The employee or contractor returns the Permit to Work to the Responsible Officer once task has
been completed.
• The Responsible Officer signs the Permit to Work and files it for future reference, once he or she
is satisfied that the work has been completed to
job specifications and safety requirements.

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➢ Working at Height permit.

Working at height’ means working in a place where a person could be injured by falling from it, even
if it is at or below ground level. Working at Height Regulations applies to all work at height where
there is a risk of a fall liable to cause personal injury.

This includes working on a ladder, flat roof, scaffold elevated surface, etc.

When working at height a full body safety harness is an essential part of your safety kit, and your
personal fall arrest system.

If a scaffold is used for a task, the scaffold inspector must also sign the permit to confirm that it is safe
to use the scaffold.

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Identify Requirements to Comply with Isolation & Lockout Procedures

Lock Out & Tag Out (LOTO)

Lock out and tag out is the specific safety practice and procedure necessary to disable the source of
supply energy to machinery and equipment. It ensures that dangerous machines are properly shut off
and not able to be started up again prior to the completion of maintenance or servicing work. This
enables employees to perform their service and maintenance activities safely.

The isolated power sources are then locked and a tag is placed on the lock identifying the worker who
has placed it. The worker then holds the key for the lock ensuring that only he or she can start the
machine. This prevents unexpected or accidental startup of a machine while it is in a hazardous state
or while a worker is in direct contact with it.
Lockout and tag out is used in all industries as a safe method of working on hazardous equipment and
is mandated by law.

The lock out register in the substation must be filled in every time any equipment is being locked out.

Figure 2. Folding lockout hasp, allowing six padlocks to lock out one device

•Tag out device

A tag out device should warn people not to operate or switch on the equipment that has been locked
out.
It should be durable to withstand workplace conditions.
It should also be substantial enough not to tear off easily or to be removed accidentally.
Identify (label) the names of the authorized employees who may apply and remove it.

•Group lockout

When two or more people are working on the same system, a multiple hole lockout
device should be used. The locked-out device cannot be activated until all workers
have removed their padlock from the hasp.

No two keys or locks should ever be the same. A personal lock and tag must only be
removed by himself.

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Lockout-tag out has 5 required components to be fully compliant with the OSHA (Occupational Safety
and Health Administration) law.

The 5 components are:

1. Lockout-Tag out Procedures
2. Lockout-Tag out Training (for authorized employees and affected employees)
3. Lockout-Tag out Policy (often referred to as a program)
4. Lockout-Tag out Devices and Locks
5. Lockout-Tag out Auditing - Every 12 months, every procedure must be reviewed as well as a
review of authorized employees.

Lockout Padlocks
• Each person must have his own lockout padlock.
• Each lockout padlock must have a unique number engraved and noted in a register.
• Each lockout padlock may have only one key.
• Each person must keep his own lockout key safely with him.
• Each person must lock and unlock his own padlock.

Types of energy to be controlled, includes

• Electrical • Pneumatic
• Mechanical • Hydraulic
• Thermal • Gravity

Release or block all Stored Energy before commencing the task or job activity.
• Discharge capacitors
• Block elevated parts
• Relieve system pressure
• Drain fluids
• Vent gases
• Allow system to cool (or use PPE)
• Apply any additional locks and tags needed

Removing Lockout devices

Before removing any lockout devices, make sure that all employees are outside of danger zones and
are notified that lock out devices are being removed.
Lockout devices must be removed by the authorized employee who applied it in the first place.

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Safety Rules and Precautions

General Workplace Safety Rules

A Company's primary objectives are to ensure the safety and health of the employees, and also to
protect company property. The main goal is to provide safe and healthful working conditions for all
employees. Safety Rules have been developed with input from employers and employees. Each
employee should become familiar with and follow General Safety Rules. Supervisors must enforce
safe work practices through strict adherence to Safety Rules. Most accidents can be prevented if
everyone uses assigned safety equipment and follows the established safety rules.

To operate a safe and successful business, everybody should work as a team.

THINK SAFE, WORK SAFE, AND BE SAFE

➢ General safety rules

• Wear and use the prescribed Personal Protective Safety Equipment. (foot protection, head
protection, gloves, etc.)
• Report all Unsafe Acts or Unsafe Conditions to your Supervisor.
• Report all work injuries and illnesses immediately.
• Only authorized and trained Employees may repair or adjust machinery and equipment.
• Lock and Tag Out Procedures must be followed before removing any machine guards or
working on powered machinery and equipment.
• Only qualified and trained Employees may work on or near exposed energized Electrical parts
or Electrical Equipment.
• Follow Electrical Safety Rules when working with electricity and electrical equipment.
• Only authorized and trained employees may enter a posted Confined Space.
➢ All confined spaces need Confined Space Permit Required.
• Only authorized and trained Employees may dispense or use chemicals.
• Keep work areas clean and aisles clear. Don’t block emergency equipment or exits.
• Smoking is permitted only in the designated Smoking Areas.

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➢ General precautions

• Your safety is your personal responsibility.

• Always follow the correct procedures.
• Never take shortcuts.
• Take responsibility and clean up if you made a mess.
• Clean and organize your workspace.
• Ensure a clear and easy route to emergency exits and equipment.
• Be alert and awake on the job.
• Be attentive at all times to your work surroundings.
• Never take risks when it comes to safety
• When in doubt, contact your supervisor instruction, guidance, or training.
• Obey safety signs, stickers, and tags.
• Take short breaks when you keep up a repetitive motion for a long period of time
• Report serious injuries immediately to a supervisor and get emergency assistance.
• Hazards may be limitless, so focus on the most likely risks first.
• Strained backs and sliced fingers may be more likely to happen in your workspace.

Identify Requirements for the Inspection of Lifting Equipment Below-the-Hook

Lifting operations and equipment

➢ Lifting operations

A lifting operation is an operation concerned with the lifting and lowering of a load. A load includes
any material or people that are lifted or lowered by lifting equipment.
Loads are often provided with permanent or semi-permanent fixed or attached points for lifting. This
includes accessories like chains, ropes, synthetic slings, shackles, eyebolts, etc.

Special care should be taken to protect synthetic slings from shaving against sharp edges and cuts.

A lifting operation may be performed manually or using lifting equipment. Manual lifting, holding,
carrying or moving is referred to as ‘manual handling of loads’.

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 • Manual handling

Manual lifting tasks with high loads or frequencies may induce musculoskeletal disorders (MSD), e.g.
low back pain.

There are several risk factors that may cause injury. The load may be:
• too heavy
• too large
• unbalanced
• unstable
• difficult to grasp, object may slip

Handling technique for lifting

There are a few things to do before and during the lift/carry:

• Remove obstructions from the route.
• For a long lift, plan to rest on a table during the carry.
• Keep the load close to the waist.
• Keep the heaviest side of the load next to the body.
• Adopt a stable position and make sure your feet are apart,
with one leg slightly forward to maintain balance

➢ Lifting equipment

Lifting equipment is a general term for any equipment that can be used to lift loads. This includes
equipment like hydraulic jack, block and tackle, fork lift, crane, tele handler etc.

Lifting equipment can be dangerous to use. It is compulsory to adhere to the safety regulations.

Maintenance and inspection on lifting equipment

All equipment should be thoroughly examined prior to any lifting operation and thereafter. Lifting
equipment may need to be examined at intervals laid down according to the manufacturer’s
recommendations.

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All inspections and examinations must be undertaken by a competent person, which is the user of
the equipment. Methods include a visual examination and functional checks, measurements of wear,
traditional non-destructive testing and load testing.

Records should be kept of all examinations and inspections.

Any defects noticed should be immediately reported to the supervisor for correction.

• Lifting hook

A lifting hook is a device for grabbing and lifting loads by means of a device such
as a hoist or crane. A lifting hook is usually equipped with a safety latch to
prevent the disengagement of the lifting wire rope sling, chain or rope to which
the load is attached.

Rigging Hook Safety Steps

• Care should be exercised during use, so the hook is not abused or damaged.
• Hooks attached to a chain should be selected to match the size and working load limit of the
chain.
• Do not exceed the working load limit or shock-load the chain or attachments.
• Hooks should not be subjected to bending, exposed to sharp objects or tip loaded.
• Avoid exposure to corrosive mediums or high temperatures.

Rigging Hook Safety, Inspection, and Use

Inspection of a lifting hooks (every time before use).

• Discard rigging hooks that are worn more than 10% of the original dimension.
• Discard hooks that have an increase in throat or slot opening more than 5% of the original
opening (not to exceed 1/4 inch).
• Discard hooks with any visibly apparent bend or twist.
• Hooks should not be subjected to bending, exposed to sharp objects or tip loaded.
• Replacement load pins shall be obtained from the manufacturer of the hook.

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 Module 2 Describe Preventive Maintenance for
HVAC equipment

Preventive maintenance on Window Type Air conditioner

Regular maintenance and service of parts of air conditioner like filters, coils, fins, drains etc. is very
important for the effective operation of the AC unit.

Negligence in the service and clean-up of AC units results in reduced cooling capacity and damage to
the unit.

Here are some important AC maintenance guidelines to follow.

Regular maintenance & clean-up of air filters

Dirty and clogged air filters obstruct the normal air flow and reduce the cooling capacity of the AC
system significantly. When the filter is very dirty, the air flowing inside bypasses the filter and carries
dirt directly to the evaporator coil, thus soiling the cooling coils. Air filter cleaning must be done at
least once a month. Regular cleaning of air filters results in proper cooling.

Remove the filters to a safe area and wash them with water. Let them to dry and put them back in
place.

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Cleaning of Evaporator coils

A clean air filter prevents the cooling coils from dust and dirt. But even then some dirt and debris gets
deposited on the coils with time. This deposition and covering reduces the heat absorbing capacity of
the coils, thus affecting the room cooling process. A yearly service and evaporator coil cleaning is
necessary.

Maintenance of condenser coil

The condenser and fan unit is located outside the home (in all types of AC). The outside dusty
environment, falling leaves, rain and wind etc., soils the condenser coils. The dust and debris make it
extremely difficult for the hot air and heat to dissipate outside. This poor heat dissipation results in
the heating of the condenser and compressor. Thus a yearly cleaning of condenser coil is very
important for the condenser to work efficiently. Repairing a condenser leak cannot be done in a
pumped-down system

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Cleaning Coil Fins

One can easily see the aluminium fins on the condensers and evaporator coils. The dust and debris
gets accumulated over the fins. The coil fins should be regularly cleaned to protect the evaporator and
condenser.

Unclog the rear drain

If the drain at the rear end is blocked, then water that gets collected inside the AC finds no space to
leave and drips inside the room from any opening. When the water inside the AC unit finds no vent,
the humidity level inside the room also increases.

Remove the AC unit to a safe location. Wash the drip tray with a brush, soap and water.

Reinstall the unit carefully and make sure the dust seals are in place.

25
Both of the major components of a room air conditioner are contained in one housing. The
condenser coil faces outside, and the evaporator faces inside.

Room air conditioners, also called window units, work the same way central air conditioners do. They
are smaller than central systems and often more expensive to operate. Depending on its size, a room
unit may cool only the room in which it's located, or it may be able to cool adjoining rooms as well.

Sandwiched between the coils are a compressor, two fans, a motor, and thermostat controls. Dirt is
the biggest enemy of window air conditioners; it can lower the efficiency of the evaporator coil, block
the operation of the fan that blows out the cool air, clog filters, and block drain ports.

26
The coils, the compressor, and the motor of a room air conditioner are sealed components, so any
repairs to them should be left to a professional service person. However, you can make minor repairs,
and regular maintenance will keep your unit running well. When extensive repairs are needed, you
can also save the cost of a service call by removing the air conditioner from its mounting and taking it
to the repair shop.

During the winter, room air conditioners should be protected from the elements. Either remove the
unit from its mounting and store it or cover the outside portion of the unit with a commercial room
air conditioner cover or with heavy plastic sheeting, held in place with duct tape.

Caution: Before doing any work on a room air conditioner, make sure it's unplugged. Room air
conditioners have either one or two capacitors, located behind the control panel and near the fan.
Capacitors store electricity, even when the power to the unit is turned off. Before you do any work on
an air conditioner, unplug it and discharge the capacitor or you could receive a severe shock. The unit's
owner's manual will show the location of capacitors and tell how to discharge them. Otherwise, let an
air conditioning technician do it.

Maintaining Key Components

The filter, power cord, coils, switch, thermostat, drain ports, and fan are important to service on a
routine basis to avoid larger problems. Below are guidelines on how to maintain these key parts.

Filter

At the beginning of every cooling season and once a month during the season, remove the front grille
and clean or replace the filter. If you live in a very dusty area, clean or replace the filter more often.
Most room air conditioners have a washable filter that looks like sponge rubber.

Clean the filter with a solution of mild household detergent and water; rinse well. Let the filter dry
completely before reinstalling it. Some units have a throwaway filter, similar to a furnace filter. When
this type of filter becomes dirty, replace it with a new one of the same type.

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Power Cord

The power cord that connects the air conditioner to the wall outlet may become worn and fail to
supply electricity to the unit. To check the cord, remove the control panel. Unscrew the cord terminals
and then attach a test wire across the bare lead wires.

Hook the clips of a volt-ohm-milliammeter (VOM) set to the RX1 scale to the prongs of the cord's plug.
If the meter reads zero, the cord is functioning. If the meter reads higher than zero, replace the cord.

Evaporator and Condenser Coils

Clean the evaporator and condenser coils at the beginning of the cooling season and every month
during the season. If you live in a very dusty area, clean the coils more often. Use a vacuum cleaner
on these components.

If the fins on the coils are bent, straighten them with a fin comb, sold at most appliance parts outlets.
A fin comb is designed to slide into the spaces between the fins. Use it carefully as the fins are made
of light-gauge aluminium and are easily damaged.

Switch

The selector switch, located directly behind the control panel, turns the unit on. If the air conditioner
does not run at any setting, and it is receiving power, chances are the switch is faulty. To correct the
problem, remove the control panel and locate the switch. Check the switch terminals for burnt
insulation or burn marks on the terminals. If you see any indication of burning, replace the switch with
a new one of the same type.

The switch is held to the control panel or frame with screws; unscrew it and connect the new one the
same way. If you determine the problem may not be the switch, call a professional service person.

Maintaining the thermostat and drain ports on your home air-conditioning window unit is vital to keep
the whole system working properly. It won't be a difficult or burdensome task if you follow the
guidelines mentioned below.

The evaporation temperature of a split air conditioning unit should be 1-5 degrees Centigrade

28
Thermostat

The thermostat is located behind the control panel. Here's how to test and/or replace the
thermostat:

Step 1: Remove grille and control panel from unit. Thermostat has special sensing bulb attached to
it; this part extends from thermostat into evaporator coil area. Its role is to sense
temperature, which is controlled by thermostat.

Step 2: Remove thermostat carefully because you must return sensing bulb to identical spot later. To
make replacement easier, tag location of bulb before you remove thermostat.

Step 3: Check thermostat with VOM set to RX1 scale. Clip probes of tester to thermostat terminals,
and turn temperature control dial to coldest setting. If meter reads zero, thermostat is
functioning properly. If reading is higher than zero, replace thermostat with new one of same
type. If thermostat is held to control panel or frame with screws, clips, or metal tabs, connect
new thermostat the same way the old one was connected.

Note: If the thermostat has more than two lead wires connected to it (not counting the sensing bulb
wire) do not try to test or replace it. Instead, call a professional service person.

Drain Ports

As the air conditioner operates, condensed moisture and water vapor from the evaporator coil are
funnelled through drain ports or an opening between the partition in the middle of the evaporator
coil and the condenser coil. At this point, the fan blows the moisture against the condenser coil,
where the water is dissipated.

Drain ports can become clogged with dirt. The result is water leaking from the appliance, usually
through the bottom of the grille. To prevent clogging, clean the ports with a short piece of wire
hanger or the blade of a pocketknife. Do this at the beginning of every cooling season and every
month during the season. Also check the condenser side of the air conditioner. Some models have a
drain port along the bottom edge of the cabinet frame. If your air conditioner has this drain port,
clean it out when you clean the other ports.

The fan, motor, and compressor require routine maintenance to keep your air-conditioning unit
running at its most efficient. The following are some simple guidelines.

Fan

29
When a fan malfunctions, the problem is usually loose or dirty blades. If the fan won't operate or if
it's noisy, cleaning and tightening will usually fix it. Here's how to repair a room air conditioner's fan:

Step 1: Open cabinet and locate fan.

Step 2: Clean away any debris with vacuum and soft cloth.

Step 3: Check fan blade on motor shaft for looseness. Blade is fastened to shaft with setscrew at hub
of blade.

Tighten setscrew with screwdriver or Allen wrench. If air conditioner has round vent fan, tighten fan
on motor shaft by inserting long-blade screwdriver through port in fan.

Fan is installed in its housing with bolts, and vibration can loosen these fasteners. Then tighten them
with wrench.

Step 4: If fan has oil ports, apply several drops of 20-weight nondetergent motor oil (not all-purpose
oil) to each port at beginning of cooling season.

Step 5: If you suspect fan motor is faulty, test it with VOM set to RX1 scale. Disconnect terminal
wires from terminals, and clip probes of VOM to wires.

If meter reads between about 3 and 30 ohms, motor is functioning properly. If meter reads either
zero or an extremely high number, replace motor.

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Preventive maintenance on Split unit Air conditioner

Ductless air conditioners are one of the most efficient and cost effective cooling options, and you want
to make sure that you keep yours in the best shape possible. While it might be easy to forget about
the mechanism keeping your home comfortable, not taking care of your ductless air conditioner could
shorten its life and greatly reduce its functioning. While there are some things that you will likely want
to leave to a professional, there are a number of steps that you can take on your own to increase the
functionality and lifespan of your system. Follow these 8 maintenance tips for ductless air conditioners
to keep yours up to date and functioning properly.

Keep the Outside Clean

One of these easiest things you can do to keep your system in the best shape is making sure that it is
free from dust and debris. If you allow dust, dirt and other particles to collect on the unit, they can
easily find their way into the operating pieces and ultimately lead to major issues.

All you need to do to ensure that your ductless air conditioner remains clean on the outside is to make
sure to include the unit in your weekly dusting routine. Simply wipe down the exterior with a damp
cloth or a gentle and safe chemical cleaner. Additionally, make sure that the outdoor portion of the
vents are free from dirt and dust and anything else that could clog the unit and make it malfunction.
This small step can greatly reduce additional work and costs later.

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Give it Some Space

While ductless air conditioners require less space than your average air conditioning system, they do
work best if you give them plenty of unobstructed room to operate. To run smoothly, the unit needs
to have ample wall space to work. Make sure that you do not have any large furniture or art
surrounding it, as these things can encourage the accumulation of dust and can hinder the efficiency
of the system. You want to make sure to give the machinery at least four feet of surrounding space in
every direction, besides the walls themselves. Avoid placing bookcases or pictures on the wall near
the ductless air conditioning unit. Clearing the space will prevent issues later and ensure that your
machine is working correctly.

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Turn the System Off

Naturally, you’re going to need to clean more than just the outside of the unit to ensure its optimal
performance. Before completing the more extensive cleaning of the interior of the unit, you want to
make sure that all the components are off. If you skip this step, you very likely run the risk of damaging
your unit, or worse, harming yourself through electrocution or other means. You want to make sure
that you turn off both in-home components and the exterior circuit switch. Once you have shut the
unit down, make sure to allow it to cool for a decent amount of time. Starting too soon can also be a
hazard.

Remove the Filters

The filters in your system are some of the most important components for checking the functionality
of your ductless air conditioner. Without proper maintenance, these filters can lead to decreased
efficiency.

To clean your air filters, you will want to carefully remove them from the inside of the unit. Use a
clean, dry cloth to gently wipe the filters clear of dirt and dust. You can check your manual for
information about how often you should complete this task, though typically you will want to do this
every four to six weeks for best results.

The filters are an important part in protecting the rest of your unit from dust accumulation and greatly
contribute to the air quality in your home. At some point, you may need to replace the filters. If they
cannot be sufficiently cleaned or are damaged, go ahead and replace them.

Clean the Coil and Condenser

You will also want to maintain the outdoor portion of your unit. Because this portion is essential to
the continued operation of your system, you want to make sure that you regularly maintain the
condenser and coils. Outdoor dirt and debris can quickly collect on this part of your unit, preventing
it from working. If left unmaintained it can prevent the entire system from working and cause a lot of
damage

To clean, ensure that all the components are off and then use your regular garden hose to spray the
unit. Once you have completed this, make sure that the fins did not bend, and if they did, you can use
an alignment comb to return them to their original shape. You can then dust off any final debris by
hand, and be sure that the unit is completely dried off when you’re done. Add this task to your weekly
cleaning routine to ensure that your ductless air conditioner regularly is attended to.

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Clean the Pipes

The pipes are an essential in emitting the cold or heat into your home, and they are the pathways
between the outside and inside components of the machine. If left untouched, dirt, dust and other
items can collect and block air from entering your home. This obviously stops your ductless air
conditioner from working. Additionally, pipes can develop leaks, which prevent proper functioning.
You will want to take a look at these pipes every so often to ensure they are clear. This is an easy step
to address when you are cleaning your air filters, so be sure to not let this task fall through the cracks.

Check for Ice or Snow

When used for heating, ductless air conditioners can collect ice and snow, which can inhibit their
ability to run efficiently. Regularly check the outside of your machinery for accumulation, and if you
spot any, gently remove it from the unit. During the winter, you are likely running your unit frequently,
and you will want to make sure that it is protected. Leaving this part of the unit covered in ice can
quickly lead to expensive issues.

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Preventive maintenance on package units

Inspect Package System

Before you start inspecting your package unit make sure to turn off the power to your HVAC.

Check for Blockage of Condensation Line

Once the power is off, I start by visually inspecting the unit. I’m looking for signs of wear and blockage
of the overflow or condensation line. When the AC is running, condensation is produced and it needs
to be able to drip out of the system. You don’t want the overflow line to be blocked … and you can
see that mine was.

My overflow line was overgrown with vegetation and it was blocked with dirt as well. I removed the
dirt and then used my shop vac for good measure. I’ll make sure that the condensation is dripping
out of this line when I turn the system back on later.

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Check Electrical Connections

Next I check the electrical connections on the package unit. The unit’s power should be off before you
do this. All I’m looking for here are any wires or lines that don’t feel secure. Thankfully all of mine
were fine, but if I did find a loose connection I’d call in a professional. There are things I’m comfortable
checking and fixing, but electrical wires on my HVAC system is not one of them.

Check Duct Work

Because the package system is outside, it has to connect to the house with ductwork. And it’s also
exposed to the elements which can lead to problems. On our system, the duct tape on a seam was
loose and peeling off.

This is an easy problem to fix. Just pull the old duct tape off, clean the surface and apply new duct
tape to the seal.

36
Clean Package System

Remove Debris

With the package unit still turned off, it was time to clean up the unit. Make sure to cut back any
overgrown foliage nearby, and remove twigs, leaves and anything else on or near your HVAC. I have
some vegetation that was growing close to my package unit which was easy to rip out.

Clean Condenser Fins

Cleaning the condenser fins on your package unit is a simple step you can take to improve its function.
It’s important to have a clean condenser, because the outside unit is designed to release heat, so
having good air flow is key. When the condenser fins are gunked up with dirt, pollen, and leaves, it
cuts down on the air flow.

Very high discharge temperatures on the liquid line may be caused by a faulty condenser fan.

37
Then let it sit for a few minutes, and I rinsed it off gently with water. If you choose to rinse off the
cleaner, make sure the water pressure is low so you don’t damage the fins. Using a hose is fine, mine
just doesn’t reach this side of the house, so the watering can did the job.

When done, the condenser fins were looking good and ready to move on to the next step.

Vacuum Inside Package Unit

With the power still turned off I carefully removed the cover to our package unit. I wanted to see the
condition inside the unit. This part might look scary, but with the power off you’re totally safe and it’s
just a few screws holding the cover in place.

There were a lot of leaves, dirt and debris inside my system so pulled most of it out by hand. Then I
carefully vacuumed this area as well. Keeping this area clean will help the unit perform most
efficiently.

38
Test Motor and Compressor

Test Motor for Package Unit

With the outside work done, it was time to turn the power back on. Testing that your HVAC is working
by turning it on early in the season is a smart idea. There’s nothing like hitting that first really hot day
and realizing your AC isn’t working. Once you know the motor is working and it’s turning on, it’s time
to make sure the compressor is in good shape.

On a 24,000 BTU (2 Ton) split type air conditioner, the run capacitor for the compressor is most likely
in the range of 20 – 40 µF

Test Package Unit Compressor

An easy way to make sure your compressor is working is to turn the air conditioner by setting it to
cooling mode and lowering the temperature on your thermostat. Then go outside to the package
unit. While it’s running you should be able to feel the warm air being pushed upward by the fan and
the condensation should be dripping. These are both signs that it’s doing its job removing heat and
moisture from the air.

39
Check Temperature Differentials

So now we know it’s working, but how well is it cooling? One of the easiest checks of performance is
to look at the temperature differentials from your package unit. The temperature differential is the
difference in air temperature going in the return vent and coming out of the supply vents. This shows
you how well your system is cooling the air.

Then get the temperature at a supply vent.

It was 73.4 at the return and 58.8 at the supply. This put my temperature differential at 15.4 degrees.
From the guidance found, you want a temperature difference of between 16-22 degrees.

The fact that my package unit is on the lower side isn’t surprising. Our system is more than 15 years
old, and a package unit’s lifespan is typically 15 – 20 years.

40
On an air conditioner condenser fan motor which is equipped with an automatic fan speed controller, the

speed of the motor is determined by the condenser coil temperature

Perform Ongoing Maintenance

Change Air Filters

Another easy step you can take to keep your package unit performing at its best is to change the air
filter. Many package units have filters right on the system that need to be changed and are easy to
forget about. Our unit doesn’t have an on-board air filter, but I went ahead and changed the air filters
in our house.

Changing the air filter is an easy step to take and it’s really important. A dirty, clogged air filter on an
HVAC system will cause it to work much harder, which can put a strain on your unit.

41
Clean Air Supply and Return Registers
Finally, cleaning the supply and return registers is the last step to maintain your package system. Some
of my supply registers were set in the floor, and I was able to lift the grate off and vacuum the opening.
The supply register in our kitchen was pretty gross with crumbs and bits of food falling in; it needed a
good cleaning. Most of our return registers are up high on the walls and the grates are screwed into
place. In that case, vacuum the fins on the grate with vacuum cleaner.

Describe PM procedures for Water Chiller Units

Chillers often represent a plant's single largest electric load. But factor in fouled tubes, leaking
refrigerant, or myriad other factors, and operating

Chillers often represent a plant's single largest electric load. But factor in fouled tubes, leaking
refrigerant, or myriad other factors, and operating costs can quickly escalate by eight to 10%.
Operating chillers at their peak performance will save energy and maintenance costs.

When a chiller has failed as result of a slow leak on the low pressure side of the system then the
following must be done: Pump down, repair leak, replace filter dryer, evacuate and top-up refrigerant

Chiller maintenance has advanced significantly, due to new developments in centrifugal chillers with
magnetic bearing chillers, and new remote monitoring technologies. As a result of remote monitoring,
the industry has been moving toward demand maintenance programs and away from pre-determined
schedule maintenance.

The LP switch cut-out setting for a water chiller unit, running on R134a should be 2psi

The figure above shows a Water chiller with a centrifugal compressor

42
You usually shutdown a compressor on a chiller with a pump-down solenoid valve and low-pressure
switch

Whichever program you use, here are 10 maintenance tips that apply to most centrifugal chillers, to
help maintain high efficiency:

1. Keep a daily log

The daily log is still the first step toward maintaining an efficiently-run chiller plant. The log
allows you to build a history of operating conditions including temperatures, pressures, fluid
levels, and flow rates. Remote monitoring technologies allow you to inspect machines
continually rather than monthly or every other month. And, it allows you to easily generate
trend reports that help to identify maintenance needs before they become an issue.

2. Keep tubes clean for efficient heat transfer

Heat transfer efficiency has the greatest single effect on chiller performance, so clean heat
transfer is fundamental to maintaining high efficiency. Contaminants such as minerals, scale,
mud, algae and other impurities increase thermal resistance and reduce overall performance.
Approach temperatures are a good indicator of heat transfer efficiency. Higher approach
temperatures are prime indicators that heat transfer efficiency is decreasing. Condenser tubes
should be brush cleaned at least annually, or per your demand maintenance schedule to keep
them free of contaminants.

3. Treat condenser water to prevent scale, corrosion

All condenser water loops using open cooling sources (such as atmospheric cooling towers)
require water treatment of some sort to eliminate scale, corrosion and biological growth. All
lead to fouling in the condensers and impede heat transfer and can decrease tube and piping
effectiveness. Inspect chilled water loops once a year or regularly with remote monitoring for
general water quality and evidence of corrosion.

4. Lower entering water temperature

Lowering the temperature of the entering condenser water will improve the chiller's efficiency.
On some building systems, the operator will lower the chilled water set point to overcome air
handler deficiencies such as dirty coils. This cures the symptom but not the problem, and makes
the chiller work harder for the same net cooling effect.

5. Keep chilled water flow rate between 3 to 12-ft per second

Changing the chilled water flow rate affects a chiller's performance. Too low a flow rate lowers
the chiller efficiency and ultimately leads to laminar flow. The minimum flow rate is typically

43
 around 3-ft. per second (FPS). Too high a flow rate leads to vibration, noise, and tube erosion.
The maximum recommended flow rate is typically around 12 FPS.

6. Maintain adequate refrigerant charge

The actual amount of cooling a chiller provides depends on how much refrigerant it moves
through the compressor. It is important to maintain the proper level of refrigerant for the
conditions desired. Refrigerant leaks, as well as air and moisture introduced into the system,
will decrease efficiency and the reliability of the system. A low refrigerant charge will cause the
compressor to work harder for less cooling effect.

7. Prevent inefficiencies caused by non-condensables

Non-condensables such as air and moisture leak into low pressure chillers because their
evaporators operate in a vacuum. Non-condensables can lower the real efficiency of the chiller
from the rated performance by as much as 4% at 60% load and 7% at 100% load. Purge units
minimize the effect of non-condensables.

Analyse compressor oil

8. Send a sample of the lubrication oil to a laboratory for a “spectrometric” chemical analysis once
a year. Like any hermetically sealed refrigeration system, the oil should only be replaced if the
analysis indicates it's needed. High moisture can indicate a problem with the purge unit. Sample
low pressure chillers more frequently, based on purge run hours. Check oil filters for pressure
drop and replace them if the oil charge is replaced. New, magnetic bearing frictionless chillers
require distinctly different maintenance and operations from traditional centrifugal chillers. Oil
has been eliminated in the design of these chiller systems, further reducing maintenance costs.

Check operation of starters and motors

9. For efficient operation of starters and motors, check the safety and sensor calibrations on
microprocessor controls (consult manufacturer's guidelines). Then, check electrical
connections, wiring, and switchgear related to the chiller for hot spots and worn contacts. To
prevent insulation faults, test electrical motor windings for insulation resistance to ground and
winding-to-winding. Check the shaft seal of open drive motors for possible refrigerant leaks, and
clean motor cooling air vents to ensure maximum cooling effect.

Install variable speed drives

10. The chiller motor is typically the largest single electrical load in a building. With the right
operating conditions, variable speed drives (VSD) can offer significant energy savings. Varying
motor speed matches motor efficiency to load and wastes less energy. Variable speed drives

44
 also act as a soft starter to lower the inrush current for the motor to almost that of the full load
running amps. This is an important factor for chillers operating on emergency power generators.

Describe PM procedures for Air Handler Units for water chiller units

Sometimes an air handler can give off some unpleasant smells into your home, probably due to
some sort of build-up in the coils. An air handler maintenance technician will be able to perform
the following:

1. Dismantle the air handler unit – Before beginning maintenance, the technician will make sure
the A/C unit is turned off outside and the electrical panel at the air handler. Any coolant within
the refrigerant lines will be retracted to avoid spills. Next, the refrigerant lines, condensation
drain, the fan system and the air handler itself will be removed.
2. Clean the air handler unit – The air handler can then be cleaned with a vacuum and by using an
antibacterial/antimicrobial solution. The technician will use a hose to rinse off the coils and then
repeat the steps to the fan system.
3. Rebuild the air handler unit – To put the air handler back together, a new insulated duct board
will be cut to size and secured with aluminium tape and plastic rib. Each seam can be further
sealed with a coat of mastic adhesive cement. Afterward, the technician will replace and
reattach the fan system, refrigerant lines and the condensation drain.
4. Give the finishing touches – Make sure your filter is changed at least once a year—more if you
have pets and/or your family is prone to seasonal allergies.

Air handler maintenance checklist

Here is some additional air handler preventative maintenance. Some of the items on this
checklist, like cleaning the filters, can usually be done by the homeowner, but be sure to call an
American Standard dealer for more complicated tasks, such as lubricating and greasing the
motor and blower bearing:

• Check the unit for noise and vibration

• Clean filters
• Drain and clean condensation pan
• Lubricate and grease motor and blower bearing
• Straighten coils with a fine comb
• Check that the motor belt and pulley are working properly
• Inspect wiring for damage or loose connections
• Check the unit’s bypass valve

A health risk associated with air handling units is Toxic mould growth inside the unit and mould
spores spread by the airflow

45
An Attenuator makes the airflow in ducting quieter

Leaking door seals on the air handler fan section will cause too much noise in the plant room

The sensor of the thermostatic water flow control valve measures the temperature of The air just
before passing over the chilled water coil

46
 Module 3 - Identify steps of HVAC component
replacement

Identify steps to remove & Install refrigeration circuit components

➢ Refrigerants

A refrigerant is a substance or mixture, usually a fluid, used in a heat pump and refrigeration cycle. In
most cycles it undergoes phase transitions from a liquid to a gas and back again.

Chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs) and hydro chlorofluorocarbons (HCFCs) are harmful to the environment,
and are responsible for ozone layer depletion and global warming potential. Never release any
refrigerant into the atmosphere. Find leakages and the cause thereof.

HFC refrigerant contains chlorine which reacts with ozone (O3) to convert it into oxygen (O2) hence
leads to depletion of ozone layer.

Major HFC refrigerants in use:

• R-134a
• R-410A
• R-404A
• R-407A
• R-22

Many working fluids have been used for such purposes like Fluorocarbons and especially
chlorofluorocarbons. They are being phased out because of their ozone depletion effects. Other
common refrigerants used in various applications are ammonia, sulfur dioxide, and non-halogenated
hydrocarbons such as propane.

These are the most common refrigerants used and note their colour coding to help identify them.

47
 Since the phase-out of. CFCs more than 10 years ago, refrigerant blends have become common.

Blends are made up of two or more single component refrigerants. A blended refrigerant should be
charged to a system in its liquid state

Refrigerant charging procedure

o Evacuation: Before charging a system with refrigerant, it has to be completely evacuated.

Evacuation is carried out by using a vacuum pump and a recovery bottle, once the system evacuates
we need to wait for about 20-25 min to check the pressure gauge is holding the negative pressure
(vacuum) as shown in the image.

In the above image, we can see there are two devices fitted, one is an analog pressure gauge showing
the final negative reading and another one is a digital vacuum gauge showing 500 microns as final
reading, connected to the same line to ensure the system is 100% evacuated.

What is Copper Plating process in a refrigerating system?

When moisture is present in the system, it combines with the refrigerant to form an acidic solution.

48
 This acidic solution dissolves copper tubing and extracts copper from copper-based alloys like brass
or bronze present in different parts of an air conditioning system.

This copper gets deposited into the compressor bearings and suction/discharge valves as a copper
plating which may lead to refrigerant system leaks, long-running of refrigeration plant, drop in the
overall cooling efficiency of the refrigeration system, chocking of filter/drier, contamination of
refrigerant and oil.

• Liquid refrigerant charging

Liquid refrigerants are normally added in the liquid line following proper conditions. If any heating
method is used to inject vapour refrigerant into the suction line then 100% vapour must enter the
compressor.

• Liquid refrigerants are incompressible and can cause severe damage to any compressor.

• Gas Refrigerant charging

Always charge the vapor refrigerant from the point where the system pressure is lower than the
pressure in the charging cylinder.

If we try to charge from the discharge side of the compressor then instead of refrigerant going from
the charging cylinder to the system it may start reversing, filling the charging cylinder itself.

• Remember that high pressure flows towards the lower side.

Only during refrigeration system evacuation or when the system is insufficient of refrigerant, the
refrigerant can be inserted to both the high and low-pressure side of the HVAC unit.

Mostly large charging cylinder has two valves. The red one is connected to the dip tube and is for the
liquid charging. Blue one is connected from the top with no dip tube and is for gas charging. In both,
the conditions cylinder is kept in an upright position while charging.

• If the refrigerant charging cylinder has only one valve, then we don’t have a dip tube and in this case,
It’s necessary to invert the cylinder for liquid charging.

• The charging cylinder must be weighed before charging by using a weighing scale.

The sequence of actions, or steps, to pump down a system refrigerant is:

1. Close the liquid accumulator service valve,

2. Run the compressor,
3. Stop the compressor just above zero pressure,
4. Close compressor discharge service valve

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Look at the Manifold Gauge set in the picture below and note their descriptions.

1. Service port for Evacuation and Charging (Yellow)

2. Low side connected to Low side service port (Blue)
3. High side connected to High side service port (Red)
A. Low pressure hand valve
B. High pressure hand valve

A few important things to take note of about refrigerants.

When a refrigerant in a cylinder is exposed to heat, the pressure in the cylinder rises and the cylinder
may explode.

Refrigerants will displace oxygen required for breathing. When working in enclosed areas which may
contain leaked Freon refrigerant, be aware that refrigerants are heavier than air, and will accumulate
low down towards the floor.

50
 When refrigerants are exposed to high temperatures, it breaks down chemically and forms acidic
compounds that will attack electrical insulation material.

When CFC/HFC refrigerants are exposed to fire, they break down chemically into acidic compounds
which are extremely toxic if inhaled.

Refrigerant which is discharged (released) as a liquid is extremely dangerous because it will cause
frostbite (freezing) to a person’s body.

If there is moisture trapped in a refrigeration system, the moisture will freeze at the expansion point,
causing temporary blockages.

A blockage in a refrigeration circuit will cause the compressor to overload and cut out on high
pressure.

➢ Expansion valve

The expansion valve is a passive orifice through which the liquid refrigerant is forced by the pressure
difference (Delta P) between the condensing and the evaporating conditions.

If a system could always operate at fixed conditions, correctly charged, a simple restriction would fulfil
the requirement.

The installation and mounting of an expansion valve is very important.

Expansion valves are designed to meter refrigerant into the cooling coil at the proper rate. This design
can keep the proper dose of refrigerant entering the cooling coil for maximum air conditioning or heat
pump system operating efficiency.

The thermostatic expansion valve sensing bulb that controls the thermostatic expansion valve is
clamped to the refrigerant suction line where it monitors the system's temperature.

The intent is to place the expansion valve's sensing bulb close to but above the level of liquid
refrigerant in the line. So on small diameter tubing the 1 o'clock position is used and for larger
diameter refrigerant tubing the 4 o'clock position is used.

51
 Accurate evaporator superheat setting of the expansion valve is important because with too little
superheat, liquid refrigerant can get into the compressor and dilute the oil.

Also, when the expansion valve is stuck in the open position, it will cause liquid refrigerant to flood
the compressor. This will result in the oil being washed off the bearings and cause the compressor to
seize.

➢ Evaporator and Condenser

While the evaporator coil picks up heat from indoor air, the condenser coil releases heat into outdoor
air. The load of heat energy extracted from an enclosed air space and compressed in hot refrigerant
vapor is rapidly released when refrigerant circulates into the condenser coil and condenses to liquid.

The lower the pressure of the coil the lower the temperature and the higher the pressure the higher
the temperature. For the evaporator we want low pressure so that it’s at a low temperature that will
absorb heat. The compressor makes the refrigerant denser and the metering device releases pressure.

However, if the evaporator has too low pressure, there might be a blockage or a gas leak.
Ice will form on the evaporator coil.

The compressor compresses the refrigerant and pumps it to a coil in the form of a hot gas.
In air conditioners, the refrigerant is cooled at the condenser into a warm liquid, and passes through
a pipe into the evaporator coil where it expands and cools. The condenser fan is a vital component
and circulates the air across the coil to facilitate heat transfer

Very high discharge temperatures on the liquid line may be caused by a faulty condenser fan.

52
➢ Reverse valve (Change over valve)

The reversing valve is a delicate component that has one pipe on the bottom and three on the top.
The job of the reverse valve is to change the direction of the flow of refrigerant in your system in the
condenser and evaporator. This is how the heat pump changes modes between heating and cooling.

The valve has two settings within it, where one is excited and the other is relaxed. The valve
manufacturer sets which state stands for heating and which stands for cooling, so there can be
variations between valves. Once a state is set for a specific mode, either heating or cooling, it stays
that way for the life of the valve.

As the controller receives an input request to change the mode, it sends a voltage to the reverse
valve’s solenoid to slide the valve in the opposite direction. As the valve slides, the refrigerant also
helps the valve to change states between relaxed and excited, or vice versa. Once the valve has slid
into the correct position, the mode has changed.

One of the most common problems that can develop with a reversing valve is that is can get stuck. It
may become stuck in a specific mode or in between modes. If the valve is stuck due to a bad solenoid,
the solenoid can be replaced; but should there be another problem causing the valve to stick, such as
leaking refrigerant, the valve will need to be replaced.

➢ Sight glass

A sight glass, also known as liquid line sight glass, is a glass window installed in a system that allows
the technician to view what is happening inside the system.

53
 The sight glass is normally located where liquid flow exists. When it is installed just prior to the
expansion device, the technician can be assured that a solid column of liquid is reaching the device.
When it is installed at the condensing unit, it can help with troubleshooting.

Sight glasses come in two basic styles: plain and with a moisture indicator.

• The plain sight glass is used to observe the refrigerant as it moves along the line.
• The sight glass with a moisture indicator can tell what the moisture content is in the system. It has a
small element in it that changes colour when moisture is present.

What you see in the sight glass can help you diagnose system malfunctions.

• If the sight glass is clear, one of three conditions can exist: the system is completely empty, the system
is full, or the system is overcharged.
• If there is foam, the charge is low.
• if there are only a couple of bubbles, it is probably okay.
• few bubbles when the compressor cycles on is normal.
• Oil streaks in the sight glass usually indicate a low charge and that the compressor is pumping oil from
its sump.
• If the sight glass is cloudy, the desiccant bag has probably burst.

➢ Oil

The purpose of oil in a refrigeration system is to lubricate the compressor that produces cooling. Oil
reduces friction on metal parts, reducing wear on the compressor and prolongs the life of the system.

Refrigerant oil is a special high-temperature formulation designed for use in cooling systems, so it is
important to use the recommended lubricant for the equipment. Oil that is too heavy will not flow
smoothly to all working parts. Oil that is too light will not adhere properly, causing inadequate
lubrication.

o Refrigeration systems depend on two main types of lubricant: synthetic and mineral oil.

• Mineral oil is typically used in industrial applications, such as air conditioning units for commercial
buildings and grocery-store freezers. It is a traditional refrigeration oil refined from petroleum
products is generally not compatible with new HFC refrigerants.
• Ester oil is a general term referring to the family of polyester lubricants. These complicated chemicals
contain ester functional groups which make them more polar and thus more compatible with HFC
refrigerants.

The type of oil for a specific compressor depends on the refrigerant used in the system.

Compatibility of lubricant oil with refrigerants

Refrigerant Mineral Oil Polyester Oil
HCFC: R22; R401A/B; R402A/B; R403B; R408A/B; Yes No
R409A/B
HFC: R134A; R404A; R407A/C/F; R410A; R507A; No Yes

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o Oil trap

An oil trap is a form of U-shape or a circular-shape pipe that is installed in the suction line. It is used
when the IU (Indoor unit) is installed lower than the OU (Outdoor unit) and in cases where the vertical
pipe length between IU and OD unit exceeds 6-7 meters. An oil trap helps compressors not to lose
their lubricant while discharging refrigerant toward the evaporator and avoid the evaporator not
being stuffed with compressor oil.

Refrigerant/oil bleed hole in the suction line accumulator allow oil to flow towards the compressor
while preventing liquid refrigerant from entering the compressor

Oil traps are installed In suction lines where the evaporator is installed lower than the condensing unit

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 The responsibility of an oil trap starts when the compressor gets turned off. In this condition, oil intend
to return to evaporator when the OU level is higher than IU. As a result, the oil trap keeps the oil in
itself and avoid the oil returning to the IU.

o Accumulator

A suction accumulator is used to prevent liquid refrigerant flood-back to the compressor. The oil is
allowed to go back to the compressor through the bleed hole in the U-bend of the accumulator.

Identify steps to remove & Install compressors

➢ Compressor

The compressor is the heart of the cooling function of heating, ventilation and air conditioning (HVAC)
systems. The motor-driven compressor in an air conditioning system powers the whole heat-transfer
cycle.

Compressors in use, depending on their application, differ from voltage namely,

• Single phase

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• Three phase

Each compressor is equipped with a thermistor embedded within the insulation of a motor winding
to provide a close thermal association with the winding. A Thermistor is a small non-linear resistance
sensor, and is made from a metal oxide or semiconductor material. It protects the motor from
overheating.

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 The heat-transfer cycle starts as the compressor squeezes (pumps) the refrigerant. This pumping
action raises its temperature well above that of the surrounding atmosphere. The pumping action also
pressurizes the refrigerant just to its liquefying point so it can flow through the system.

The hot, pressurized, liquefied refrigerant flows to a condenser coil where it gives up its excess heat
to the cooler atmosphere. Typically, a fan blows air through the condenser coil to facilitate transfer of
the excess heat.

A discharge valve that has been exposed to higher-than-normal temperatures will show carbonization
of oil on the valve, valve plate, and valve backings. The iron in the valves themselves will act to speed
up chemical reactions when exposed to an overheating situation. Valve leakage often occurs in these
situations.

Semi-hermetic compressors require special attention during lifting and handling. Use a sling and
shackle of sufficient size and hook on the eyebolt.

Always inspect lifting equipment before use. When you find broken, worn and stretched hooks,
exchange the equipment for ones in good condition and report the damages.

➢ Service valves

Many refrigeration compressors incorporate a suction service valve and a discharge service valve.
These are used to allow refrigeration gauges to be attached to the system and, if needed, they are
used to isolate the compressor from the rest of the system.

Working with these valves is not difficult, but there are some finer points to remember. Service valves
can be set to three different positions.

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• Front seated position - The valve stem is turned fully clockwise to effectively stop the flow of
refrigerant vapour from the suction line union on the low pressure side of the compressor and to the
discharge line union on the high pressure side of the compressor.

• Back seated position - The valve stem is turned fully counter-clockwise to stop the flow of refrigerant
vapour to the gauge port of the service valve.

• Midway position -The valve stem is turned either clockwise or counter- clockwise to leave the valve
unseated. Thus refrigerant vapour can flow from the suction line and also to the discharge line and at
the same time pass through the gauge port, to the gauge hose and to the relevant pressure gauge.

When the service valve is fully back seated, what port is closed?
Service/gauge

The service valve located at the receiver outlet is known as?

King valve

To isolate the compressor from the rest of the sealed system you should fully?
Front seat both the suction and discharge service valves

Which service valve should never fully front seat while the system compressor is in operation?
Discharge service valve

What will happen if you fully front seat the receiver king valve while the system compressor is in
operation?
Low side operating pressure will fall, if allowed to run long enough the compressor will pump all the
refrigerant into the high side of the system pulling the low side into a vacuum.

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When a service valve is fully front seated what port is closed?
Line

When the service valve is in the mid-seated position, what port is closed?
No one, all ports are open

What is the normal operating position of the service valves?

Fully back seated

To minimize refrigerant loss when removing manifold gauges hoses from the system using service
valves what is the sequence of steps of removing?
Back seat the discharge service valve; backseat both manifold gauge valves; allow the compressor to
draw the refrigerant into the system low side; back seat the suction service valve then remove both
manifold hoses.

What will happen if the suction service valves is fully front seated while the system compressor is
running?

Low side of the compressor and low side manifold gauge only will fall into a vacuum, if the compressor
is allowed to run you can charge refrigerant vapor into the system faster. all of the refrigerant is
trapped on the high side and low side of the system.

The compressor will eventually need to replaced in a home air-conditioning system that is used

often. If you're air-conditioning unit is having issues and you've diagnosed it as a problem with the

compressor, you can replace it yourself with these steps.

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How Compressors Work

The refrigerant gas, which was transformed into a high-pressure and high-temperature substance,

will be transferred to the condensing coil. The condensing oil, in turn, cools the gas into a liquid

state. The gas is cooled using a fan or blower inside the condensing oil. Another way to cool the gas

is through the immersion of the coil into cold water.

Replacing the Compressor

Usually, compressor replacement is something that should be done by a professional. Although it is

not your usual home-improvement project, it is possible to do it yourself, saving money in the

process.

Step 1 – Determine Compressor Problems

Check whether the compressor is still capable of doing its job within the cooling system by checking

the temperature of the air coming out from the air-conditioning system. If not, continue to replace

the compressor.

Step 2 – Identify the Type

Before buying a replacement, make sure you identify the correct kind of compressor that you have

because there are numerous types. Usually, the model type of the compressor is indicated in the

manual.

Step 3 – Turn Off Electrical Supply

Warning: Failure to completely turn off the electrical supply can result in injury.

Before opening the air-conditioning system, you should cut off all power supply.

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Step 4 – Remove Refrigerant

Next, open the cooling system and remove the refrigerant. The system should be ridden of all

refrigerants. The latest environmental protocols require that, instead of releasing refrigerant

outside, it should be captured and pumped into a storage cylinder.

Step 5 – Cut Refrigerant Lines

The line of the refrigerant should be cut. After this, take out the compressor. The area of the

compressor is usually located outside, but you can use your manual to find where yours is

specifically.

Step 6 – Unbolt the Compressor

Before replacing the compressor, you have to unbolt it first. When unbolting the compressor of the

air conditioner, the hosing attached to it should also be removed. Usually, compressors come with a

single bolt. This standard setup provides holding for both the low- and high-pressure lines. The

compressor should be unbolted from this holding and the accessory bracket.

Step 7 – Replace the Compressor

The replacement compressor should be placed within the condenser unit with the mounting bolts.

Connect the lines of the refrigerant once gain. Given that the refrigerant needs replacing, other

controls or the coils should be replaced as well.

Step 8 – Assemble the Unit

Assemble the unit once again, and then connect it to the power source. Check to see if the air-

conditioning system is now working properly.

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Identify Steps to remove and install motors

Start by confirming the issue is in fact a motor in need of replacement. Begin by turning off the
power to the A.C. unit. Then manually try spinning the fan blade. If the blade does not turn freely,
the motor is in need of replacement.

Most air conditioner models will allow you to replace the expired part with a universal condenser
fan motor. But in using a substitution, certain criteria must be met. So before purchasing a
replacement make sure you taken notes from the original unit on the following:

• Motor Diameter In Inches

• Horsepower Rating-be aware the some A.C. units have more than one
• Operating Voltage-units can range from 115-460
• Motor Shaft Size In Inches
• RPM Speed
• Direction Of Rotation
• Mounting (not all units are mounted in the same way)
This is not exactly a DIY project unless you have the technical expertise to do it. Please do not
attempt to perform this service unless you are a qualified professional and have all the proper tools
and safety equipment. If in doubt, please contact a reputable local HVAC company that can install
your new fan motor for your condenser.

Once you're ready to install your universal fan motor, start by shutting down all electric supply to
the AC unit via the breaker box for safety precautions; it's very important that you do not skip this
step. Before removing anything, take note of the motor's wiring (what colors of wiring, how they are
connected, etc.). The fan and motor can now be dismantled, which is generally done by removing
bolts on the band that secures the motor. In some units, these bolts are actually attached directly to
the motor. Now remove the fan blade. Before doing so, take note of the blade's position on the
shaft. Loosen the screws, and remove the blade from the motor shaft by twisting and tugging. Once

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the old unit is out, to install the new one, simply reverse the process described above. Be especially
careful when reinstalling the fan blade. Make sure the blade is centered in the fan motor's opening.

But you're not quite done. Every time you replace a condenser fan motor, you should also replace
the A.C.'s run capacitor, which is a cylinder-shaped device that helps to start or run motors. To
replace it, again take down all technical data on the unit, and note wiring colors and positions before
removing it with a screw driver. As with the fan condenser motor, your run capacitor replacement
selection is based on its technical data, not shape or size.

To install the new capacitor, reverse its removal process, but before replacing any covering and
reactivating the A.C., go stand outside by the A.C. and wait for the contractor to come on. When it
does, it will buzz or hum and may take several minutes to do so. After hearing the contractor,
replace the covering and restore power. Test the A.C. to make sure fan and cool air production are
normal before you resume using it.

Now that you have your new fan motor installed, don't forget to regularly clean your AC condenser,
as having a dirty condenser can strain the fan motor and make it more likely to fail prematurely. This
is pretty simply to do yourself but it is always recommended that you get a local professional do to an
HVAC inspection and to do a more thorough cleaning. We hope this article helped you and on behalf
on National Air Warehouse, we wish you a wonderful day!

Identify steps to remove and install air handling unit parts

Air Handling Units (AHUs) keep people comfortable by moving conditioned air through a large facility.
Often bigger than a freight car, they present a challenge to replace. Months of downtime and the
disruption of a construction project mean that replacement isn’t ideal. Even if components are worn,
there’s a better option than replacing the entire unit: refurbishing the AHU to make it work like new.
Trimark Mechanical’s extensive experience in air handler refurbishment cuts costs while shaving
weeks (even months) off replacements. From custom-built replacement parts to complete
refurbishments, our experts are equipped to handle a variety of air handler repairs.

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1. Coils

The first parts of an air handler that start facing issues are coils. Dirt, dust and debris accumulating
on coils can lead to small and large-scale performance issues and even system failure. Is your air not
cooling properly? This could likely be a frozen evaporator coil.

2. Shaft and Bearings

A noisy and inefficient air handler can be due to shaft and bearing wear. Trimark can clean and
refurbish worn out shafts to keep your handler running smoothly.

3. Supply and Exhaust Fans

Fans are constantly spinning, so it’s no wonder that this continuous motion necessitates
maintenance and occasional replacement. After years of work, fan blades can become distorted,
misshapen, and welded together.

4. Floors, Drain Pans, Drain Pipes

Water collecting at the base of the air handler and refrigerant leaks and cause rust.

5. Blower Motor

A variety of issues, such as dirt accumulation, rusted bearings, electrical failure, or simply old age can
cause blower motor issues. The experts at Trimark promptly diagnose and repair the issue with
minimal downtime.

6. Sensors

Temperature, humidity, and airflow are regulated by sensors. They require calibration and may need
replacement.

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Identify steps to remove & Install controllers

What is Control?

In simplest term, the control is defined as the starting, stopping or regulation of heating, ventilating, and
air conditioning system. Controlling an HVAC system involves three distinct steps:

1. Measure a variable and collect data

2. Process the data with other information
3. Cause a control action

The above three functions are met through sensor, controller and the controlled device.

Elements of a Control System

HVAC control system, from the simplest room thermostat to the most complicated computerized
control, has four basic elements: sensor, controller, controlled device and source of energy.

1. Sensor measures actual value of controlled variable such as temperature, humidity or flow
and provides information to the controller.
2. Controller receives input from sensor, processes the input and then produces intelligent
output signal for controlled device.
3. Controlled device acts to modify controlled variable as directed by controller.
4. Source of energy is needed to power the control system. Control systems use either a
pneumatic or electric power supply.

Figure below illustrates a basic control loop for room heating. In this example the thermostat assembly
contains both the sensor and the controller. The purpose of this control loop is to maintain the
controlled variable (room air temperature) to some desired value, called a setpoint. Heat energy
necessary to accomplish the heating is provided by the radiator and the controlled device is the 2-way
motorized or solenoid valve, which controls the flow of hot water to the radiator.

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Theory of Controls

Basically, there are two types of controls viz. open loop control and closed loop control.

Open loop control

Open loop control is a system with no feedback i.e. there is no way to monitor if the control system is
working effectively. Open loop control is also called feed forward control.

In open loop control the controller may operate an actuator or switch and is often done by a timer
and is best explained by the following example of a cooking oven. If the required temperature inside
the oven is achieved by switching on and off a heating element, this is known as sequence or open
loop control. A timer is set by the operator which operates the electrical circuit to the electric heating
element. Once the oven reaches the desired temperature, the timer will “close” the switch so that the
temperature inside the oven modulates about a setpoint.

For the oven to maintain a constant temperature the element is switched on and off by a pre-set
timing device which opens or closes the switch by a cam driven device. The resultant temperature
inside the oven is not really constant but varies due to lag in achieving steady state conditions.

For more accurate control it would be best to keep the band width between on and off temperatures
as narrow as is practicable. Too much switching will wear out the switch contacts especially if there is
arcing across the switch contacts. It is evident that there is a relationship between switching time or
switching cycle time and how often the temperature inside the oven is at the desired value. The
diagram below shows the same open loop control but with reduced switching time. The oven
temperature is more likely to be at or near the setpoint.

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These types of controls are not suitable for air-conditioning and refrigeration system because it does
not provide the facility of comparing the parameters to be controlled.

Closed Loop System

If the oven in the example had a temperature measuring device and the temperature inside was
continually being compared with the desired temperature then this information could be used to
adjust the amount of heat input to the electric element. In the closed system, controller responds to
error in controlled variable. A comparison of the sensed parameters is made with respect to the set
parameters and accordingly the corresponding signals shall be generated. Closed loop control is also
called feedback control.

In general ask a question, does sensor measure controlled variable? If yes the control system is closed
loop, if no the system is open loop.

HVAC control systems are typically closed loops. Closed loop can be broadly classified into two
categories viz. two position controls and continuous controls. Consider an example below of the
temperature control of space heating. The diagram shows a room heated by a hot water radiator.

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The control elements include:

1. Sensor
2. Controller
3. Controlled device - Valve actuator & valve

Note that the controlled variable; air temperature is what needs to be controlled. By varying the
amount of hot water passing through the valve, the amount of heat being distributed to the room is
controlled. This control sequence can be represented on a block diagram as shown below.

The desired value or setpoint is adjusted at the knob on the front of the thermostat. (Note that the
room thermostat contains the sensor, setpoint adjustment, comparison device and the controller,
which are shown distinctly in the block diagram above). The temperature sensor measures the actual
value and sends a signal back along the feedback path to the comparison device. The comparison
device compares the value of temperature at the sensor to that of the desired value or setpoint on
the controller. The difference between the desired value and the measured value is known as the
error signal. The error signal is fed into the controller as a low voltage signal (e.g. 10 volts) to the
actuator.

The controlled device, which is an actuator on 2-port valve reacts to the impulse received from the
controller and varies the flow of the hot water. This in turn changes the condition of the space or
process to the desired value. This type of control is called modulated control because the control
elements are constantly changing the signal from the comparison device to maintain a near constant
temperature in the room even though inside and outside conditions may vary.

Type of Control Systems

Direct Acting Systems

The simplest form of controller is direct-acting, comprising a sensing element which transmits power
to a valve through a capillary, bellows and diaphragm. The measuring system derives its energy from
the process under control without amplification by any auxiliary source of power which makes it
simple and easy to use. The most common example is the thermostatic radiator valve which adjusts
the valve by liquid expansion or vapor pressure. Direct-acting thermostats have little power and have
some disadvantages, but the main advantage is individual and inexpensive emitter control.

69
Directacting thermostatic equipment gives gradual movement of the controlling device and may be
said to modulate.

Electric / Electronic Systems

Electric controlled devices provide ON / OFF or two-position control. In residential and small
commercial applications, low voltage electrical controls are most common. A transformer is used to
reduce the 115 volt alternating current (AC) to a nominal 24 volts. This voltage signal is controlled by
thermostats, and can open gas solenoid valves, energize oil burners or solenoid valves on the DX

cooling, control electric heat, operate two position valves and damper or turn on-off fans and pumps.
A relay or contactor is used to switch line voltage equipment with the low voltage control signal. The
advantage of electric system is that it eliminates the personnel safety and fire risk associated with line
voltage, and allows these control wires to be installed by a non-electrician without requiring conduit
and other safety measures. However, these systems are generally limited to providing on/off control
only: they cannot operate at half capacity.

Electronic Controlled Devices can be either modulating or two-position (ON/OFF). Electronic control
systems usually have the following characteristics:

1) Controller: Low voltage, solid state

2) Inputs: 0 to 1V dc, 0 to 10V dc, 4 to 20 mA, resistance element, thermistor, and thermocouple
3) Outputs: 2 to 10V dc or 4 to 20 mA device
4) Control Mode: Two-position, proportional or proportional plus integral (PI)

Other features of electronic control systems include:

1) Controllers can be remotely located from sensors and actuators.

2) Controllers can accept a variety of inputs.
3) Remote adjustments for multiple controls can be located together, even though sensors and
actuators are not.
4) Electronic control systems can accommodate complex control and override schemes.
5) Universal type outputs can interface many different actuators.
6) Display meters indicate input or output values.

An electronic control system can be enhanced with visual displays that show system status and
operation. Many electronic controllers have built-in indicators that show power, input signal,
deviation signal, and output signal. An indicator light can show on/off status or, if driven by controller
circuits, the brightness of a light can show the relative strength of a signal.

Pneumatic Systems

The most popular control system for large buildings historically has been pneumatics which can
provide both On-Off and modulating control. Pneumatic actuators are described in terms of their
spring range. Common spring ranges are 3 to 8 psig (21 to 56 kPa), 5 to 10 psig (35 to 70 kPa), and 8
to 13 psig (56 to 91 kPa).

Compressed air with an input pressure can be regulated by thermostats and humidistat. By varying
the discharge air pressure from these devices, the signal can be used directly to open valves, close

70
dampers, and energize other equipment. The copper or plastic tubing carry the control signals around
the building, which is relatively inexpensive. The pneumatic system is very durable, is safe in hazardous
areas where electrical sparks must be avoided, and most importantly, is capable of modulation, or
operation at part load condition. While the 24-volt electrical control system could only energize a
damper fully open or fully closed, a pneumatic control system can hold that damper at 25%, 40% or
80% open. This allows more accurate matching of the supply with the load.

Pneumatic controls use clean, dry & oil free compressed air, both as the control signal medium and to
drive the valve stem with the use of diaphragms. It is important that dirt, moisture and oil are absent

from the compressed air supply. Instrument quality compressed air is more suitable for controls rather
than industrial quality and requires drying to a dew-point low enough to satisfy the application. The
main disadvantages are: it is less reliable and noisier when compared to electronic systems.

Microprocessor Systems

Direct Digital Control (DDC) is the most common deployed control system today. The sensors and
output devices (e.g., actuators, relays) used for electronic control systems are usually the same ones
used on microprocessor-based systems. The distinction between electronic control systems and
microprocessor-based systems is in the handling of the input signals. In an electronic control system,
the analog sensor signal is amplified, and then compared to a setpoint or override signal through
voltage or current comparison and control circuits. In a microprocessor-based system, the sensor input
is converted to a digital form, where discrete instructions (algorithms) perform the process of
comparison and control. Most subsystems, from VAV boxes to boilers and chillers, now have an
onboard DDC system to optimize the performance of that unit. A communication protocol known as
BACNet is a standard protocol that allows control units from different manufacturers to pass data to
each other.

Mixed Systems

Combinations of controlled devices are possible. For example, electronic controllers can modulate a
pneumatic actuator. Also, proportional electronic signals can be sent to a device called transducer,
which converts these signals into proportional air pressure signals used by the pneumatic actuators.
These are known as electronic-to-pneumatic (E-P) transducers. For example, electronic-to- pneumatic
(E/P) transducer converts a modulating 2 to 10V DC signal from the electronic controller to a
pneumatic proportional modulating 3 to 13 psi signal for a pneumatic actuator. A sensor-transducer
assembly is called a transmitter.

The input circuits for many electronic controllers can accept a voltage range of 0 to 10V dc or a current
range of 4 to 20 mA. The inputs to these controllers are classified as universal inputs because they
accept any sensor having the correct output. These sensors are often referred to as transmitters as
their outputs are an amplified or conditioned signal. The primary requirement of these transmitters is
that they produce the required voltage or current level for an input to a controller over the desired
sensing range. Transmitters measure variable conditions such as temperature, relative humidity,
airflow, and water flow, power consumption, air velocity, and light intensity. An example of a
transmitter would be a sensor that measures the level of carbon dioxide (CO2) in the return air of an
air-handling unit. The sensor provides a 4 to 20 mA signal to a controller input, which can then
modulate outdoor/exhaust dampers to maintain acceptable air quality levels. Since electronic
controllers are capable of handling voltage, amperage, or resistance inputs, temperature transmitters

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are not usually used as controller inputs within the ranges of HVAC systems due to their high cost and
added complexity. Summarizing
• Transducer changes the sensor signal to an electrical signal (e.g. a pressure into a voltage)
• ransmitter is the electronic circuitry to enable a suitable strength voltage proportional to the
sensed parameter to be sent to a controller.

Controllers Types

Temperature Controllers

Temperature Controller, as the name implies is an instrument used to control temperature. The
temperature controller takes an input from a temperature sensor and has an output that is
connected to a control element such as a heater or fan.

Temperature controllers typically require a specific type or category of input sensors. Some have
input circuits to accept RTD sensors such as BALCO or platinum elements, while others contain input
circuits for thermistor sensors. These controllers have setpoint and throttling range scales labeled in
degrees F or C.

Relative Humidity Controllers

The input circuits for relative humidity controllers typically receive the sensed relative humidity
signal already converted to a 0 to 10V dc voltage or 4-to 20 mA current signals. Setpoint and scales
for these controllers are in percent relative humidity.

Enthalpy Controllers

Enthalpy controllers are specialized devices that use specific sensors for inputs. In some cases, the
sensor may combine temperature and humidity measurements and convert them to a single voltage
to represent enthalpy of the sensed air. In other cases, individual dry bulb temperature sensors and
separate wet bulb or relative humidity sensors provide inputs and the controller calculates enthalpy.
In typical applications, the enthalpy controller provides an output signal based on a comparison of
two enthalpy measurements, indoor and outdoor, rather than on the actual enthalpy value. In other
cases, the return air enthalpy is assumed constant so that only outdoor air enthalpy is measured. It is
compared against the assumed nominal return air value.

Universal Controllers

The input circuits of universal controllers can accept one or more of the standard transmitter/
transducer signals. The most common input ranges are 0 to 10V dc and 4 to 20 mA. Other input
variations in this category include a 2 to 10V dc and a 0 to 20 mA signal. Because these inputs can
represent a variety of sensed variables such as a current of 0 to 15 amperes or pressure of 0 to 3000
psi, the settings and scales are often expressed in percent of full scale only.

Reset

The “reset” in HVAC applications is the automatic resetting of a setpoint based on a secondary signal.
Reset of a setpoint is used for comfort reasons, for better control, or to save energy. A common
example of reset is called hot water reset. Hot water reset automatically decreases the hot water
temperature setpoint as the outside air temperature rises. If the outside air temperature is 0°F, the

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building requires 180°F water and if the outside air temperature is 70°F, the building requires 90°F
water. As the outside temperature increases, the hot water setpoint drops.

In every reset application there are at least two sensors- “primary and secondary sensors”. In the
example above, the two sensors are outside air temperature (OA Temp) and hot water supply
temperature (HWS). To determine which the primary sensor is, ask, "What are the controls trying to
control?"

In the example above, the hot water temperature is being controlled; therefore, the hot water sensor
is the primary sensor. The outside air temperature sensor is the secondary sensor. The function of the
secondary sensor is to reset or automatically change the setpoint of the controller. Each reset
application uses a reset schedule. This schedule is determined by the mechanical engineer or the
application engineer.

Just as the term controller action is defined as reverse and direct, the term reset is also defined as
reverse and direct. The hot water reset example is a reverse reset. Reverse reset is the most common.

Reverse Reset

Reverse reset means that as the signal from the secondary sensor drops, the setpoint of the controller
increases. In the example above, as the outside air temperature drops, the hot water setpoint rises.

Direct Reset

With direct reset, as the signal for the secondary input increases, the setpoint increases. Direct reset
is less common than reverse reset. An example of direct reset is an application called “summer
compensation”, shown below.

When cooling (air conditioning) was first introduced, shopping malls advertised their stores as being
a comfortable 72°F year-round. This was fine until the summer became very hot. People who were
outside in 100°F weather, dressed for hot weather, would walk into a shopping mall and feel cold.

Some people did not stay long in the stores because it felt too cool. Summer compensation is used to
counteract this problem. Summer compensation raises the zone setpoint as the outside air
temperature increases. The secondary signal and the setpoint go in the same direction. A typical reset
schedule for this application may look like the following:

Summer Compensation Reset Schedule

OA Temp Zone Setpoint

72°F 72°F
105°F 78°F

This application is used in any building where a large number of people are entering and leaving all
day, such as a shopping mall or bank. If this application is used, it may be important to ensure that the
air is dehumidified for proper comfort.

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Identifying Reverse or Direct Reset

Looking at the reset schedule and note the relationship between the secondary signal and the
setpoint. If the secondary signal increases as the setpoint decreases, then the application is reverse
reset. Secondary Signal and Setpoint go in opposite directions. If the secondary signal increases as the
setpoint increases, then it is direct reset. Secondary Signal and Setpoint go in the same direction.

Example #1

In the figure below, the hot water supply is maintained by On-Off control of electric input to the hot
water generator. Here the hot water temperature is the primary sensor. The controller performs
reverse action and it’s the reverse reset application.

Example #2

In the figure below, the return air humidity sensor controls the electric input to the pan type steam
humidifier according to a reset schedule based on outside air temperature and relative humidity
setpoint. Here the return air humidity (RAH) is a primary sensor. The controller performs reverse
action and it’s the direct reset application.

Example #3

In the figure below, the mixed air temperature sensor controls the normally closed outside air
dampers and the return air dampers. The outside air temperature is at 34°F. Here the mixed air
temperature is the primary sensor. The controller performs direct action and it’s the reverse reset
application.

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Installation considerations
HVAC CONTROLS:

Thermostats: A thermostat is the example of a sensing device. Sensing devices of an HVAC control
system sense air or water temperature, humidity, and steam pressure or air pressure, and convert
the sensation into a transmittable signal. A thermostat signals the heating/cooling equipment when
to start and stop and how much to modulate. The temperature difference between when the
equipment is shut off and when it is called to restart is referred to as the "dead band.

When the room temperature falls below a specified set point for heating minus the thermostat dead
band, the thermostat will call for heating. If the room temperature rises above a user-specified set
point for cooling plus the dead band value, the thermostat will call for cooling.

Thermostats must be located where they can sense the average temperature of the space to be
conditioned. They should not be located where there is a possibility of exposure to conditions that
are not representative of the whole space. Such as in direct sunlight, in a cold draft, on an outside
wall, or near a heating or cooling surface. If the thermostat is desired to be concealed for certain
reasons, a variation of the standard wall thermostat can be located in the return air duct.
Thermostats are also available with remote-sensing wires which may be wrapped inconspicuously
around an art object.

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Heat Pump Thermostat Wiring Chart Diagram

The Basic heat pump wiring for a heat pump thermostat is illustrated here. It corresponds to the
chart below to explain the thermostat terminal functions. Before uninstalling the old thermostat
take a picture of the wiring with your cell phone before removing the wires. This way you have a
reference. At the minimum draw a picture of it referencing the wires, wire color and what terminal
the wire is attached to what terminal. The photo and the drawing reference can be used later to
make sure you wire the new thermostat properly.

You should 100% make sure that you have a heat pump system and not an air conditioner with
electric heating strips as it is a common mistake for people to misidentify their HVAC systems. Make
sure you do not make the same mistakes others make. Air conditioners are different because the
reversing valve and defrost controls are unnecessary

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 Five wire connection

Variations with Thermostat Installations

There are so many different variations of this High Performance HVAC will not attempt to describe
them here. We will describe the common type (at least for this region (mid-Atlantic) and if you see
that you have the system described you can proceed cautiously at your own risk. Furthermore, here
is a list of possible thermostat wiring combinations beginning with the most common first:

5-Wire Thermostat Wiring

This is the most common and covers many central air conditioners with an air handler or gas
furnace. Finally, the 5 wires likely cover Red for 24-volt hot, white for heat, yellow for cooling, green
for the fan, and blue for common (common could be another color).

4-Wire Thermostat Wiring

This is typically for a thermostat that is battery powered or a heat only digital thermostat. It covers
the same control or color features as the 5-Wire thermostat wiring above except for heat only.

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Furthermore, with heat only, you likely will have a 24-volt hot and common (red and blue), a white
wire for heat and a green wire for a fan.

3-Wire Thermostat Wiring

This is common for a digital thermostat that controls a boiler. Finally, it has 24-volt hot and 24-volt
common along with the wire for the heat which is likely white.

2-Wire Thermostat Wiring

This likely a heat only thermostat that is either digital or non-digital. If it is digital, it has battery
power to power the thermostat. The two wires likely are red for 24-volt hot and white for the heat.

How to Install a Thermostat: A Step-by-Step Guide

1. Find your home’s circuit breaker panel and

shut off any breakers associated with your
HVAC system. If your breakers are not labeled,
figure out which breaker goes to your HVAC
system by turning your thermostat to “fan on,”
verify the blower is running, and then start
flipping breakers one by one until the blower
shuts off.

2. Remove the thermostat from the wall by unscrewing the mounting hardware.
Place a piece of tape over each of the wires with
the letter code of the terminal you’re connecting
it to. The color might not correspond to the letter
code (G for green, for instance), so mark the wires
with the terminal code that appears on the cover
before you disconnect it.

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3. Locating the terminal code then disconnect the
wires from the terminals using a screwdriver.

4. Separate the front of your new thermostat from

the base and pull wires through the back plate of
your new thermostat and mount it on the wall
using a screwdriver.

5. Connect each marked wire to the corresponding

terminals on the thermostat with a screwdriver
and install batteries if need be.

6. Snap on the face plate and turn on the circuit

breakers. If correctly installed, the thermostat will
power on. Check to see if the thermostat has other
required installer settings by following the
directions on-screen.

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 7. Turn on the fan and air conditioning to make sure both the indoor and outdoor unit power
up and produce cool air from vents. A delay time of up to 10 minutes is possible for the
system to fully configure. Follow the on-screen commands to program the temperature
parameters you want for certain times or days. If your thermostat is Wi-Fi–capable, you can
connect it now.

Zone Dampers
Self-contained microprocessor-based thermostats can be programmed for a wide range of daily
setback cycles that can change for each day of the week. These devices are simple to operate and
can control a number of different zones with separate sensors. Dampers (additional information).
Circulating and controlling of air extensively involve dampers.

A zoning system can typically use the same duct sizing as a traditional single-thermostat system. It is
important to properly size and install a pressure relief damper as well as properly balance the
zones. To minimize bypass air flow, increase the duct capacity by one size for each zone less than
25% of the total system air flow capacity. For systems with more than 4 zones, increasing the duct &
damper sizes of the smaller zones (or all the zones) will minimize the amount of pressure relief
needed when only the smallest zone damper is open. NOTE: Connect dampers directly to the
plenum when possible and branch off smaller ducts going to different areas within the zones. USING
this trunk/branch duct design will minimize cost and reduce air noise.

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Installing Air Duct Dampers in 10 easy steps
Equipment:

• Aluminum duct tape

• Cordless drill
• Safety goggles
• Tin snips
• Wire (18-gauge or 22-gauge)
• Wire nuts
Directions:

a) Measure up the length of duct you want to cut out and mark it with a black marker (Sharpie)
b) Take out this section of the duct
c) Cut out the section where you plan to install your air duct damper with your tin snips
d) Fix the section of duct you removed back in place
e) Pop your air damper in between these duct sections
f) Position the junction box, so it covers the electrical wires going to the power source per
manufacturer’s instructions
g) Make certain that all connections are grounded
h) Secure the air duct damper firmly at each end
i) Seal the seams using aluminum duct tape
j) Fire up your system and enjoy fully optimized climate control the smart way

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Identify steps to remove & Install Duct Heater
Duct heater are primarily use as source for space heating. Duct heaters are self-contained and
designed to install in a duct system either in a horizontal or vertical duct. It can be installed as a
standalone or combined with any source of heating and cooling systems. SAFID heaters can be use as
for primary heating, secondary heating, auxiliary heating reheats and humidity control or multi zone
with VAV systems to meet the maximum comfort conditions.

Duct heaters are custom engineered and designed with the help of Computer Software which specify
the element size, sheet metal, support racks with insulator, controls configurations and all optional
accessories. The software will allow to prepare, and immediate custom design or quotation and it will
help to any design or modification of controls without any delay.

Construction details

1. Slip-In Insert Type

This is the most commonly used type due to its simple installation. It can be inserted in to a duct
from the side by cutting an opening to match with the heater size and fastened by metallic screws
thru inside the control panel. In this type of installation, the heater height is overlapped by 25mmm
that the element enclosure, so the panel will cover all rough opening in duct

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 2. Flanged Type

This type of installation provides maximum duct rigidity. Heater has to be installed in between two
ducts by means of joining the flanges in ducts and heater. Element enclosures inside dimensions are
same as the opening size of ducts. 25mm flanges are provided in heater as standard unless otherwise
specified. All flanges are to be joined with proper bolts & nuts to secure the heater in between the
duct and fastened by metallic screws through the control panel.

3. Recessed Type

This type of installation is suitable for internally insulated ducts where other obstructions restrict the
full duct face area. The recessed panel is designed to project beyond the insulation, so that the
element termination and thermal cut-out surfaces are exposed in airflow. The depth of the recessed
panel will be depends the internal insulation thickness.

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4. Bottom Terminal Box

This type of designs is allow the heater installation by bottom where the space retriction is for side
mounting. This will provide maximum ease of serviceability in limited space. Element termination and
thermal limits cut-outs are installed in side terminal box and remaining controls except Mercury
Contactors, SCR Controls and Power Fusing are built-in bottom control panel. SCR Controller, Mercury
Controller are Power Fusing are to be installed in separate remote-control panel.

5. Remote Control Panel

If there are any space restrictions for service access, select the heater with remote control panel for
easy service and maintenance. The control panel can be mounted in a convenient space in near
proximity to the duct heater. Connection between the heater terminals and control panels are easy
made through the terminals installed in both sections. All components and accessories are factory
wired and only the connections made between the heater and panel need to be field connected. All
contactors should be disconnecting type as per UL requirements for remote panels.

6. Round Duct Heater

This type allows for an easy method of installing duct heaters in a round duct. The heater section is
fitted with factory installed adaptor as sized to round duct connections provided at the inlet and
outlet for field connection

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 Module 4 – Describe troubleshooting and repair procedures
of HVAC equipment

Describe troubleshooting and repair refrigeration Compressors

Troubleshooting compressor electrical motor faults

The core of a refrigeration system is the compressor, which is designed to pump cool refrigerant gas
from the evaporator into the condenser.

A compressor failure is often caused by an electrical fault. A multi meter and a clamp meter are
necessary tools for troubleshooting electrical motor faults, especially meters designed to accurately
measure both ac voltage and ac current. Clamp meters allow current to be measured without breaking
into the electrical circuit.

• Check the voltage at the contactor (starter) terminals and compare to the Voltage rating on the
compressor nameplate.
• De-energized tests (Shut off the power) at the compressor: Check for any loose, worn, or burnt
wires. Check for any damaged wire connections in the compressor terminal box.
• Use an insulation tester to check resistance on windings the measurement of insulation
resistance is carried out by means of a megohmmeter. This is how the test works: DC voltage of
500 or 1000 V is applied between the windings and the ground of the motor. Each winding to
ground should be tested and the reading should be higher than 1 MΩ
• If a compressor is found to be completely burnt out, the whole system must be flushed. By this
time, refrigerant has been broken down by the intense heat of the motor burn and it has formed
acids in the system. This will attack the insulation of the replacement compressor motor.
• Each compressor is equipped with an overload relay. Check and test the relay, as they sometimes
get faulty too. The correct setting of an overload is 110 % of the motor nominal current.

Troubleshooting compressor mechanical faults

Mechanical system failure or inferior installation and service practices often cause compressor
electrical problems. These problems include:

• Poor piping practices resulting in oil not adequately returning to the compressor during the run cycle.
This will cause the bearings to run dry and cause the compressor to seize. A compressor bearing that
has failed can be detected by the discoloration of the compressor oil.

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 • High discharge temperatures creating acids in the oil.
High discharge temperature is the result of temperatures in the compressor head and cylinders
becoming so hot that the oil loses its ability to lubricate properly.
This causes rings, pistons and cylinders to wear resulting in blow by, leaking valves, and metal
debris in the oil.

Signs of high discharge temperature include:

1. Discolored valve plates
2. Burned valve reeds
3. Worn pistons, rings and cylinders
4. Stator spot burn from metal debris

To avoid high discharge temperature:

1. Correct abnormally low load conditions
2. Correct high discharge pressure conditions
3. Insulate suction lines
4. Provide proper compressor cooling

• Insufficient air flows across the evaporator and condenser coils

Ideally, air conditioners need 400 CFM (+/- 50 CFM) per ton of cooling to provide proper heat
exchange and efficiencies of the system. Not enough air flow OR too much air flow can cause
problems with the system.
When there is not enough air flow through the evaporator or a restriction in the air flow, the
suction pressure is below normal because the refrigerant flowing through the evaporator picks
up less heat than normal resulting in lower pressures. Some of the most common air flow
restrictions are dirty filters, dirty blower wheels, dirty coils, under-sized duct work, obstructed
grills and registers, and duct leaks. If this is not corrected, liquid could be returning to the
compressor which will eventually cause compressor failure.

• Extremely low suction pressures.

1. Insufficient heat getting to evaporator.

This can be caused by low air flow (dirty filter, slipping belt, undersized or restricted ductwork,
dust and dirt buildup on blower wheel) or a dirty or plugged evaporator coil.
Checking superheat will indicate if the low suction is caused by insufficient heat getting to the
evaporator. To check superheat, attach a thermometer designed to take pipe temperature to
the suction line. Don't use an infrared thermometer for this task. Then take the suction
pressure and convert it to temperature on a temperature/pressure chart. Subtract the two
numbers to get superheat.

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 2. Defective, plugged, or undersized metering device.
Let's say a system has 45 psi suction pressure (converts to 22F) and 68F suction line temperature,
the superheat is 46F (68 minus 22). This indicates low refrigerant in the evaporator. However,
before adding refrigerant, check the subcooling to be sure the problem isn't caused by a defective,
plugged, or undersized metering device.

While superheat indicates how much refrigerant is in the evaporator (high superheat indicates not
enough, low superheat indicates too much), subcooling gives an indication of how much refrigerant is
in the condenser.

3. Low refrigerant.
Yes, it's true! There are indeed some cases where low suction pressure is going to be caused by low
refrigerant. If the superheat is high and the subcooling is low, the refrigerant charge is probably
low. Just keep in mind two things here: first, find and fix the leak. Second, monitor both superheat
and subcooling as you add the refrigerant, to prevent overcharging.

• Liquid refrigerant flooding back into the compressor.

Compressor flood back is a common cause of HVAC/R system failure. Flood back occurs when
uncontrolled liquid refrigerant enters the compressor during system operation. In an HVAC/R system,
the refrigerant exits the evaporator and enters the compressor in a vapor state. But when the
refrigerant is not vaporized entirely in the evaporator, a part of it gets sucked into the compressor in
its liquid form. Compressor flood back may be misdiagnosed as compressor failure, even though the
compressor doesn’t cause this phenomenon.

Causes of Compressor Flood back

Many different factors may lead to refrigerant flood back in an HVAC/R compressor. Most of them
could be traced to:

• Problems with the evaporator

Ice buildup on the evaporator coil due to poor ventilation, a damaged evaporator fan belt,
and a failed fan motor are some common problems that could result in refrigerant flood back.
Incorrect defrost cycles or a less effective method of defrosting could also cause ice to
accumulate on the evaporator coil, eventually leading to compressor flood back.
Overcharged conditions and/or incorrectly sized capillary tubes – An overcharge of
refrigerant or a capillary tube that’s too large and/or too short indirectly means that a larger
amount of refrigerant could enter the evaporator. In this case, the boiling point of the
refrigerant may never be reached, which could lead to refrigerant flood back. However, flood
back can be prevented in systems equipped with expansion valves that are working correctly.

• Defective or misadjusted expansion valves – Because expansion valves regulate the rate at
which the refrigerant flows into the evaporator, a malfunctioning or a misadjusted valve could
result in refrigerant flood back.

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 • Refrigerant migration – During the off cycle, a difference in pressure may occur between the
refrigerant liquid/vapor within the system and the oil in the crankcase. Because liquids and
vapors flow from high- to low-pressure areas, the refrigerant will migrate to the crankcase,
which is the lowest pressure point in a refrigeration system. When the compressor starts, the
refrigerant settled in the bottom of the crankcase, under the oil (refrigerant is heavier than
oil), will start to boil and vaporize, entering small particles of oil and eventually causing
compressor failure. Refrigerant migration to the crankcase may also result in liquid slugging
during start-up. Although refrigerant migration and flood back can be prevented by adding a
suction accumulator to the system, accumulators may also flood in a severe flooding
condition.

• When compressor valve does not seal properly the suction pressure on a packaged air
conditioner remains too high, and the discharge pressure on the compressor is low.
• When a compressor discharge line on a commercial cold room unit is running at 160°C then
the oil will break down at this temperature and deposit carbon on the compressor valves

When the compressor discharge line on a commercial cold room unit is running at 2°C it is at its
maximum efficacy

Screw compressors is most likely to survive serious liquid slugging of short duration

Describe Troubleshooting and repair motors

Besides the compressor motor, which is previously discussed, there are also other motors involved in
HVAC systems, like the evaporator and condenser fan motors. As for the electrical tests, it remains
the same in both cases.

A fan-motor failure on an air-conditioning or refrigeration system usually is a catastrophic event

because it often goes unnoticed for a while and puts great stress on the system’s compressor, thus
shortening its life.

An evaporator (indoor) fan-motor failure almost always results in the indoor coil freezing over and the
suction line freezing all the way back to the compressor. And since the refrigerant isn’t being
evaporated in the coil, liquid refrigerant is being drained back into the compressor.

As you can’t compress a liquid refrigerant it destroys the internal valves. In all compressor designs,
the liquid refrigerant dilutes the lubricant, which often results in a locked-rotor condition.

Screw compressors can handle liquid refrigerant for a short period of time.

Fortunately, indoor fan motors don’t fail too often because they are out of the weather and the design
of the fan blades keeps the electrical current through the motor from rising when there is a blockage,
such as a very dirty air filter. The main causes of failure are loss of lubricant, a failed run capacitor, a
failed bearing in a belt drive, a little water dripping into the windings or a voltage problem. So
technicians should carefully check to find the cause of a failure before changing the motor.

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However, a condenser (outdoor) fan-motor failure can be even worse. Since the refrigerant isn’t being
condensed, it causes the pressure on the discharge side to get very high and the compressor (since it
isn’t being cooled) gets extremely hot, which breaks down the internal lubricant and contaminates
the system.

However, outdoor fan motors have more stressful conditions to deal with because they operate in all
kinds of weather and in much hotter conditions, and the design of their blades causes them to draw
more power when there is any blockage, as with a dirty condenser coil.

Because of the heat, probably the most common type of failure is caused by the lack of lubrication of
the bearings. And though lubrication ports used to be the norm in their design, more manufacturers
are deleting them to cut costs. Yet, where there are lubrication ports on any HVACR motors, oiling
them must be a regular part of any preventive-maintenance program.

Describe Troubleshooting and repair Air Handling Units Components

Common Air Handler Problems.

Everyone loves to be comfortable, so when there is a problem with the HVAC system, we can become
very uncomfortable. The air handler in the HVAC system has electrical and mechanical components in
it that can experience problems from time to time. Some of the most common problems with air
handlers can help you identify the problem and possibly fix the issue many common air handler
problems you can avoid with regular air handler maintenance.

Although some of the issues listed will need the attention of a professional HVAC technician to repair
the air handler, after all, an HVAC technician will have all the tools and likely the parts available to
make a fast and efficient repair. Furthermore, since every air handler is different it is possible the
problems described here do not apply to your situation.

Common Air Handler Problems

Some of the most common problems with air handlers are:

1. Clear, clean pathway for good airflow
2. Blower motor failure
3. Regular filter maintenance
See below for the descriptions and maintenance best practices to avoid these issues:
Clear Duct System and Good Airflow | Common Air Handler Problems
Since the AHU is the central unit that moves the air throughout the ductwork, it is important to
make sure nothing obstructs the airflow through the air handler, such as dirty or clogged air
filters. A regular air filter maintenance schedule will help you maintain good airflow through the
duct system. It also helps keep the air handler components inside clean and free of debris and
dust. If you maintain good filter maintenance, you will not have to worry about a dirty evaporator
coil or any other components clogging with dust or debris. Furthermore, this includes closing off
supply vents.
Dusty and dirty components lead to big problems which can cause your air conditioner to freeze
up along with other major issues. Maintaining a good air filter maintenance schedule is easy
especially if you have a good digital thermostat. Many of the newer digital thermostats have air

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 filter change reminders. Maintain good filter maintenance and prevent several future problems.
Dirty filters can lead to many problems including causing water damage to the home. Finally, the
problem can become catastrophic under the worst situations.

Blower Motor Failure

The next most common problem that can occur with an air handler is a failure of a blower motor,
whether it be the blower motor or something else that causes the blower motor to fail. It could be a
bad relay, control board, run capacitor, or the blower motor itself. It could also be the blower wheel.
These are AHU (Air Handling Unit) problems that need the attention of a professional HVAC technician.

An HVAC technician can identify the problem quickly and make the blower motor repair. It may require
ordering parts, or the part may be available on the service truck, but the problem will get resolved
quickly and efficiently.

Proper Filter Maintenance | Air Handler Maintenance Procedures

Most of the issues described can be avoided with proper filter maintenance. Even the blower motor
failure can be enhanced by bad airflow resulting from no regular filter maintenance. It makes the
motor work harder, creating more heat and pulling more amperage, which costs you more electricity
costs. The dirt from dust that builds up also hurts the motor and creates more heat which can have
detrimental effects on the motor. Consequently, the lesson is to keep a good clean filter in the system,
and you will reduce any problems that may occur with your air handler.

Air Handling Units HVAC Airflow Problems and Troubleshooting

Again, it is recommended that an HVAC professional do this work. Make sure you read the High
Performance HVAC disclaimer before proceeding. A professional will have all the proper HVAC tools
to complete the HVAC repair or maintenance job quickly and efficiently. It does not matter what type
of equipment you have.

You can have a Trane, Goodman, York, Rheem, or Carrier HVAC system, and it all needs to be
maintained. If you decide to do it yourself, make sure you follow the safety procedures as noted on
the Air Handler Page about cutting power to the air handling unit before attempting to clean the
evaporator coils.

Once you have turned the power supply off to the air handler, open the air handler panel where the
suction and liquid lines run into the air handling unit. Be very careful not to bend or crimp these lines
or any lines in the air handlers. Another thing to avoid is the fins on the coils. Do not bend them.
That would defeat the purpose of cleaning the coils because it will reduce the amount of air flowing
through the coils. Plus, the evaporator fins can cut you. Be careful. Furthermore, check the
condensation drain line before you begin this procedure.

Basic Check Air Handler Maintenance Checklist

See the condensate drain section below for more information on this subject. Soak the air handling
unit evaporator coil with a soap and water solution. Professionals use an industrial-strength coil
cleaner, which may be available at some hardware stores. Let this solution soak for a few minutes.

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Then take a rag and wipe as much dust off the surface of the evaporator coils as possible. Repeat these
steps until the evaporator coils look clean.

Take a flashlight and look between the fins on the evaporator coils. The evaporator fin on the coil
should appear to be clean. If not, soak the evaporator coils again and use a brush with light bristles to
brush the evaporator coils.

Remove as much dust, dirt, and debris as possible from the evaporator coil. Remember there are two
sides to the coil and make sure both sides are clean. The side that will most likely be dirty will be the
side where the return air flow comes from. If your evaporator coils are clean and the rest of your air
handler components are operating normally you should have a nice cool summer inside your home
no matter what the weather is outside.

Checking the Air Handler Blower Motor Air Handler Maintenance Check

The air handler blower comprises different components in most units. It has an electric motor, a
squirrel cage blower wheel, and a cage typically referred to as a squirrel cage. Some air handling units
have belt-driven motors, and most have capacitors for the air handler electric motor, and typically,
they only required HVAC maintenance on the blower is oiling the air handler blower motor if it has oil
ports or checking the belt if you have a belt-driven motor.

Not all blower motors have oil ports. These blower motors use sealed bearings, and never require oil.
The air handler blower motors that do have oil ports have little plastic dust caps are removable so that
oil can be applied.

Checking the Air Handler Condensate Lines | Air Handler Leaking in Attic Prevention
Checking the air handler condensate lines is especially important if your air handler is located in the
attic. Since the air conditioner evaporator coil (inside the air handling unit) operates at a temperature
less than the dew point, it will condense the moisture from the air. This air handling unit coil is
designed to allow the moisture to drip into an evaporator condensation pan. Most condensation pans
have a 3/4 inch PVC line attached to them that allows the moisture to drain to the outside of the
house.

The PVC condensation drain line often becomes clogged with algae and muck. Consequently, it needs
to be blown or flushed out from time to time. If your air handler is in an attic, it should have a
secondary pan to catch the water in case the primary condensation pan or condensation drain line
gets clogged. Typical items that clog condensation lines are algae, muck, and trash, like insulation from
the attic. You can treat the evaporator pan and condensation drain lines with algaecide that should
work throughout the season.

Prevention of Air Handler Leaks Troubleshooting

For double protection, I recommend that all secondary condensation pans have float switches
installed. The float switch will cut the air handling unit off if the secondary condensation pan starts to
overfill. That will save you from buying a ceiling from a condensation leak. Your local HVAC service
company can install float switches. Check to make sure that the air conditioner condensate line is not
plugged. You can do this by pouring water in the air conditioner condensation pan. If it drains fast
then the line should be okay.

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If it drains slowly or not at all, then the condensation drain line is plugged or beginning to plug. I often
find the end of the line outside and take a hose and flush the line. You must be careful if you do this
procedure. You can flood the condensation pan and cause water damage. That will clean the line in
most cases.

Additionally, you can make sure that the condensation drain line has a downward slant to it.
Sometimes people place things in the attic on the condensation drain lines, and it won’t drain. If you’ve
checked all that and the condensation water still doesn’t drain properly, you need to call an HVAC
professional.

Professional HVAC Technician Maintenance | Air Handler Maintenance

The HVAC professional should have all the necessary HVAC tools to blow the condensation line
properly. All of these checks are made by your local Heating and Air Conditioning HVAC company. Just
call and ask for a spring tune-up or an HVAC maintenance agreement. A little HVAC preventive
maintenance on your HVAC system can save you a lot of money in the future. Take the time to have
this HVAC maintenance done and save yourself from the expense and hardship that comes with HVAC
breakdowns and HVAC component failure.

HVAC Duct Work should be sealed and insulated. Then the insulation should be sealed to provide a
vapor barrier. Commercial HVAC ductwork commissioning requires a pressure test to make sure the
ductwork was correctly installed and meets specifications.
Refrigeration

By the time it (HVAC refrigerant) reaches the end of the coils, it should have absorbed enough heat to
change it from a liquid to a vapor*. What are the reasons why the coil wouldn’t absorb enough heat
to change the state of the refrigerant?
• Dirty Filters
• Dirty Coils
• Collapsed Duct
• Too many supply vents closed off
• A bad blower

The bottom line is airflow. There must be the proper amount of airflow across the coils for your system
to operate efficiently. Take this one step further. If you have one of the problems mentioned above
and the refrigerant remains a liquid, what happens? Refrigerant leaving the evaporator is on a non-
stop trip to the compressor. The refrigerant must be changed from a liquid to a vapor before it reaches
the compressor. The liquid doesn’t compress and can cause major problems if it reaches the
compressor. It’s called liquid slugging and can cause irreparable damage to the compressor.
HVAC Variable Speed Motors | Common Air Handler Problems

Today’s technology, while being more expensive to purchase upfront, can pay for itself over time in
energy savings by increasing efficiency. Variable-speed blower motors not only increase efficiency,
but they also increase your comfort. Conventional HVAC systems are designed to maintain comfort
based on basic parameters. The parameters include a peak load of 95 degrees Fahrenheit outside
temperature with 75 degrees Fahrenheit and 50 percent relative humidity inside.

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That means even when the temperature outside is 80 degrees Fahrenheit the system will still operate
full blast. It will run as if it were 95 degrees Fahrenheit outside. Imagine you had a car that only did
one speed. Sure it would get you there, but how efficient would it be? Both Trane, York, and Carrier
HVAC systems have specifically designed systems with variable speed blowers for greater efficiency
and humidity removal. Other manufacturers have followed their lead.

Variable Speed ECM Motors Bonuses Common Air Handler Problems

Variable speed motors (technically called ECM or Electronically Commutated Motor) along with two-
stage compressors and multi-stage furnaces offer better control and efficiency. These components
and controls help your system runs the speed it needs to run. The appropriate speed to meet the
current load demand. Temperatures are even, and the equipment cycles per hour have an observable
reduction. In both the summer and winter, the motor runs at a slower speed until the demand
increases. Then it ramps up to meet that higher demand. It only runs or consumes enough energy to
meet the current demand. Furthermore, other benefits of having variable-speed motors are:
• Soft-start capabilities
• Quieter operation (research indicates up to 50 percent less noise than conventional blowers)
• Better humidity control which adds increased comfort in the summer
• On higher SEER condensing units, variable-speed motors are used for the condenser fan motor
• When used in conjunction with multi-stage furnaces the AFUE rating increases
Different manufacturers offer different options with available speeds and control of the variable
speed motor. It is important to compare when shopping for new equipment. Use High
Performance HVAC links page to see the different options available from different
manufacturers. Variable speed motors used with other high-efficiency options are definitely
worth the extra cost of installation. Consequently, it will pay for itself by saving you money in
energy costs over the long term.

Conclusion | Air Handler Maintenance

Again, remember that you can have the best, most efficient HVAC machine any manufacturer can
design. However, if your ductwork is sub-standard and leaking, you’re losing the efficiency. The
efficiency you gained by having the best system installed. Ductwork deficiencies are probably the most
overlooked problems with an air conditioning and heating HVAC system. Before you spend a ton of
money having the best HVAC system installed, check the ductwork. Finally, make sure the ductwork
has airtight integrity and is properly insulated.

Describe Troubleshooting and repair Controllers

o Electrical switchgear
In an electric power system, switchgear is composed of electrical disconnect switches, fuses or
circuit breakers used to control, switch on or off, protect and isolate electrical equipment.

o Thermostat
Many common HVAC problems are related to the thermostat settings. If your settings are
incorrect, it can influence the way your HVAC performs.

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 Room thermostats are placed in such a way that they measure the return air temperature at the
evaporator, in order to control the room temperature. This cause a constant airflow over the
bulb of the thermostat, which result in dust collecting on the bulb. The bulb should be cleaned
regularly to ensure correct temperature readings.

o Timer

Timers are used to control the On and Off times of air conditioning units. Make sure the settings
are correct. Correct settings and adjustments will extend the life of the compressor, as well as
other components.

o Expansion valve
Expansion valves are designed to meter refrigerant at the proper rate, so as to control the
evaporator pressure and the temperature. The correct adjustment and setting of the expansion
valve will ensure maximum air conditioning and system operating efficiency.

o Pressure switch
The low-pressure switch (LPS) and a high pressure switch (HPS) are protective devices for the
compressor and refrigeration circuit.

•The low-pressure switch (LPS) monitors the refrigeration system for a loss of refrigerant charge,
and may also be helpful in stopping the evaporator coil from freezing up due to a dirty filter or
low airflow over the coil.

The low-pressure switch is also used to stop the compressor during the pump-down process

•The high-pressure switch monitors the system for an inoperative outdoor motor and for a dirty
and restricted condenser coil, therefor it protects the system against over pressure. They are also
used for controlling condenser pressure in low ambient temperature conditions.

If either one of these switches trip, the HVAC unit will shut down. The switch needs to be reset
to resume operation. Some switches are reset only from inside the HVAC unit.

In a system with more than one evaporator and one condensing unit, each evaporator is
equipped with a Suction pressure regulator

A suction pressure regulator limits the minimum pressure allowed in the evaporator.

Condenser fan speed control is used for maintaining effective pressure difference

On a cold room unit with LP switch temperature control, running on R134a, the cut-in setting of
the LP switch should be 2.2 Bar

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 o Variable speed on fans
On an air conditioner’s condenser fan motor, which is equipped with an automatic fan speed
controller, the speed of the motor is determined by the condenser coil temperature. Condenser
fan speed control is used to maintain an effective pressure difference.

A commercial freezer room blower coil builds up ice and stops airflow through the coil when the
defrost elements controls are faulty or they are not activated during the defrost cycle

Describe Troubleshooting and repair Refrigeration Circuit Components

Ice machines differ markedly from other commercial refrigeration units and require their own service
approach. Ice machine refrigeration tuning is precise, with very close tolerances required. Because of
the precision required, components like head pressure regulating valves and thermostatic expansion
valves (TXVs) in most ice machines have factory-fixed settings, and faulty parts require replacement
rather than adjustment. Consequently, a technician’s troubleshooting must be especially methodical
in order to avoid unnecessary charges to the customer and to eliminate callbacks.

These machines are, in most cases, critically charged. For example, a self-contained air-cooled
machine, with a capacity of 400 pounds of ice production per day, will have a charge as small as 20
ounces. It is all too easy to introduce new problems into a unit just by connecting pressure gauge
hoses to it rather than using a stub gauge, because enough refrigerant will be lost from the system
into the hoses to radically affect operation.

The complexity of ice machines with their large number of components and controls adds to the
challenge. Systematic fault identification becomes a powerful tool for the service technician, one that
saves time and cost for the customer.

Consider the most common refrigeration-related symptoms that present themselves, how to identify
and isolate them, and the “therapy” required. As a first step in the service visit, question the staff that
uses the machine on a daily basis. Ask about the machine’s performance history, inquiring about each
of the symptoms named below. Observe the machine for at least three cycles.

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This expansion valve has a sensing bulb charge formulated specifically for ice machines. The power
element is laser welded and there is a stainless steel capillary tube.

THERMOSTATIC EXPANSION VALVE

In an ice machine, the TXV is expected to maintain constant superheat across the complete range of
operating evaporating temperatures and maintain a uniform temperature across the entire
evaporator. In other words, temperature of the evaporator coil at the outlet should be almost the
same as that at the inlet, which in turn implies that the superheat should be very low. Low superheat
helps in uniform ice formation and improves system efficiency since the evaporator coil surface is now
completely utilized in two-phase heat transfer.

The principal objective in design of an ice machine TXV is to ensure a low and stable superheat over a
typical evaporating temperature range of 32° to -4°F. It is also desirable to provide a non-adjustable
valve with the greatest possible trouble-free service life.

The equalizer tube for an externally equalized expansion valve be connected before the sensing bulb,
from top of suction line.

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The picture above shows an oil separator, installed in the hot gas line

Before starting to work on the ice machine, verify that there is sufficient subcooling ahead of the TXV
(a minimum of 4°F). Also, ensure that the sensing bulb is properly mounted, in the correct location,
and well-insulated. Check to see that the external equalization tubing is not pinched. If all of these are
correct, look for the following symptoms related to the TXV.

Symptom #1: Ice thick or normal at the bottom but thin or no ice at the top of the evaporator. This
symptom, resulting from superheat being too high, is accompanied by a very long freeze time before
the harvest cycle is initiated, or no harvest cycle at all. High superheat means that the refrigerant does
not have enough cooling capacity as it passes through the evaporator.

The cause can be either a starving faulty TXV or low refrigerant charge resulting from a leak or from
careless service. Since the ice thickness-measuring probe is typically located towards the top of the
evaporator, it may never detect ice if superheat is too high, and the harvest cycle may never be
initiated.

To determine the cause of high superheat, check system pressures. Expected operating pressures are
typically listed in the factory service manual, and components are factory fine-tuned, pressures are
very accurate, and deviation should be obvious.

If the TXV is starving, the suction pressure will be low and the discharge pressure normal. If the TXV is
faulty, it must be replaced.

When there is low refrigerant charge, performance will be similar to that when there is a starving TXV.
There may be some ice formation or none, depending on just how low the charge actually is. If there
were ice formation, it typically would be thick on the bottom of the evaporator grid and thin at the

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top. Systems that are low on refrigerant have both low suction and low discharge pressures. Locate
the leak, recover the refrigerant, fix the leak, evacuate, and re-charge the system.

Symptom #2: Ice thin over the entire evaporator, or no ice formation. This symptom appears, typically,
if the expansion valve is overfeeding. An overfeeding TXV keeps the suction pressure (and hence the
evaporating temperature) high. This can result in thin ice formation or none at all. Another indicator
of an overfeeding or “flooding” TXV is a compressor that frosts and perhaps becomes covered with
ice. The compressor in this case will also run noisier than is normal, because lubrication is reduced by
oil dilution. When the TXV is overfeeding, discharge pressure could be normal.

Proper diagnosis makes it imperative to inspect for proper bulb mounting and insulation as
recommended earlier, so that the bulb will not react to external heat sources and cause the expansion
valve to throttle open, overfeeding the evaporator.

If all is well with the bulb and the problem persists, replace the expansion valve.

Symptom #3: Ice does not drop. In situations where the freeze cycle is normal and there is good ice
formation, but ice does not drop during the harvest cycle, the hot gas solenoid valve could be
restricted. Other causes of ice sticking to the evaporator could be a dirty evaporator or fan evaporator
that has lost its plating.

Using a spot thermometer, check for the possibility of a restricted valve by ensuring that the
temperature is the same on both sides of the hot gas solenoid valve during the harvest cycle. If there
is no difference, the valve is operating properly. If there is a difference of more than a few degrees,
and there is current to the coil, the valve should be replaced.

If the problem persists, check the condenser fan cycling switch on air-cooled units, or the condenser
water-regulating valve on water-cooled units. If the condenser fans are running during harvest cycle,
they will cool and condense the discharge gas, thereby reducing the amount of gas to harvest the ice.
Similar logic can be applied to diagnose a bad condenser water-regulating valve. If either the pressure
switch or the regulating valve is faulty, replace it.

Symptom #4: Long freeze cycle time but normal harvest cycle time. One would observe this symptom
if the harvest solenoid valve is leaking hot gas into the evaporator. Depending on how bad the leak is,
there may be very slow ice formation or none at all. This problem can be isolated from other problems
by checking the refrigerant line temperature before and after the solenoid valve during the freeze
cycle. If the line is too hot downstream of the valve, it is a clear indication that the valve is leaking hot
gas. At the same time, both suction pressure and discharge pressure would be high.

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This compressor has been optimized for ice machine operating conditions and have strengthened
bearings to allow more frequent cycling and improved valve timing.

COMPRESSOR ISSUES

An ice machine compressor is subject to several cycles of freezing and harvest per hour. During cycle
changeover, there is a high possibility of liquid refrigerant flooding back to the compressor, and the
compressor is very vulnerable to damage. In addition, the compressor is typically the component that
consumes the most energy. With ever-tightening energy regulations from the Federal Energy
Management Program (FEMP), ice machine manufacturers seek optimized and robust compressors.

Compressor-related issues are relatively easy to identify. A bad compressor may fail to run. Bad start
components can result in failure to start or in short cycling. The result will be no ice production.

Check to see if the compressor is running. If it is not, unplug the unit and make sure all the wiring is
correct and has not come loose. Check for shorts to ground and internal shorts by applying a
multimeter to the power cord plug. Use the multimeter to check that compressor winding resistance
is correct and that the windings are not shorted. Also check the user manual to make sure that the
compressor is correct and that it has the right start components for the particular ice machine model.
The compressor will not start if incorrect start components are used.

If the compressor is running, check and see if it is overheating. Overheating can result from either low
refrigerant charge or from overloading the compressor. The compressors used in ice machines are
typically hermetic and depend on suction gas for motor cooling. Low refrigerant charge will reduce
cooling.

Refer to symptom #1 in the TXV section above about identifying low refrigerant charge and
differentiating it from a starving TXV. The compressor motor is overloaded if the compressor is
operated consistently outside of its operating envelope. If the compressor’s thermal overload is open
because of overheating, give it time to reset. The thermal overload can trip in cases where the
condenser coil is clogged or dirty and if it is installed too close to a wall, preventing good air circulation.

If the ice machine has a remote condensing unit, ensure that all the proper piping practices, as
recommended by the manufacturer, are followed during installation of the refrigerant lines. Improper
bends or traps can trap oil and prevent it from returning to the compressor.

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 Describe Troubleshooting and repair duct heaters

Electric duct heaters are stand-alone heating units which are designed for installation within air
handling systems. Some of these heaters are a fundamental part of a number of other equipment; for
instance, some may be directly attached to heat pumps, variable air volume terminals, or fans.

Electric duct heaters are used for a number of applications, including the following:
• Heating large volumes of air in commercial buildings
• Heating systems on public transportation, ships, and more

There are four ways in which air can be heated, and that is through:
• Open coil heaters
• Strip heaters
• Tubular heaters

o Open coil heaters are ideal for conditions where the air velocity is below 80 feet per minute. Higher
velocities would lead to the coils coming in contact with each other, which would cause them to short
out. Due to the fast response time and low mass of these types of heaters, a phase angle SCR is
recommended instead of zero-cross fired SCR.

o Strip and tubular heaters come in numerous types of shapes and are utilized to create hot air. They
are typically used in ovens and for comfort heaters. If the required temperature is less than 500
degrees F, finned-tubular & strip heaters can be used. For higher temperatures of up to 1200 degrees
F, an electric duct heater of this type without fins is ideal.
Electric duct heaters are designed in all kinds of sizes and types that cater for specific applications.

Electric duct heaters work by heating up the passing air. The air pressure, volume, and velocity are the
three main factors used when determining the right type of electric duct heater for a particular
application.

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Uneven or partially blocked airflow will cause the heaters to overheat. This is caused by dirty and dusty
filters and blockages in the duct. Dust on the elements will give off a nasty burning smell from the air
handler unit. Usually this is after seasonal use only and will stop smelling once the dust is burnt off.

When doing maintenance, make sure to clean the elements. Also make sure not to damage the rubber
seals when installing, removing or working on the elements.

In order to switch on the heaters, the airflow switch must be in the closed-contact position. This means
there must be a constant and even airflow. If no or low airflow, the airflow switch will return to its
normal state, namely the open-contact position. The airflow switch is the safety device for the heaters.

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