New Directions in Sock Knitting 18 Innovative Designs Knitted From Every Which Way 1st Edition Ann Budd Instant Download
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New Directions In Sock Knitting 18 Innovative Designs
Knitted From Every Which Way 1st Edition Ann Budd
Digital Instant Download
Author(s): Ann Budd
ISBN(s): 9781620339435, 1620339439
Edition: 1
File Details: PDF, 23.28 MB
Year: 2016
Language: english
NEW DIRECTIONS IN
NEW DIRECTIONS IN
TA K E A S T E P I N A
NEW DIRECTION!
Go beyond top-down or toe-up construction in New
Directions in Sock Knitting. In the eighteen designs
SOCK
CRAFTS ⁄ KNITTING
KNITTING
curated by knitting superstar Ann Budd, you’ll be
treated to projects that range from traditional sock
patterns to more challenging and innovative sock
SOCK KNITTING
constructions.
US $26.99
16KN01 (CAN $29.99)
ISBN-13: 978-1-62033-943-5
ISBN-10: 1-62033-943-9
52699
EAN
UPC
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LUEMODEyNzg3MDIwNTExcA==
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8 1 9 781620 339435
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02
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FnL1
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02
03
04
ANN BUDD
SOCK
KNITTING
18 Innovative Designs Knitted from Every Which Way
Ann Budd
Chapter 1
Top-Down Construction
10 Mirror Socks by Kate Atherley
16 Enduring Stripes by Cat Bordhi
22 Crystalline by Carissa Browning
32 Bertha by Rachel Coopey 62 70
38 Cleave by Hunter Hammersen
46 Tilt-A-Whirl by Jennifer Leigh
52 Gold Digger by Heidi Nick
Chapter 2
Toe-Up Construction
62 Mitered Triangles by Kathryn Alexander
70 Harlequin by Anne Berk
78 Cumulus by Carissa Browning
86 Crossfade by Marjan Hammink
Chapter 3
Other Types of Construction
96 U-Turn by General Hogbuffer
104 Zigzag by Anne Campbell
112 Boomerang by Louise Robert
96 104 112
118 Seed Beds by Betty Salpekar
126 Vanishing Point by Jeny Staiman
134 Square Socks by Nicola Susen
140 Smokey ZickZacks by Natalia Vasilieva
78 86
Socks Every
Which Way
When I set out to acquire socks for this book, I wanted to assemble a collection that differed from every other sock
book on the market—hence the title New Directions in Sock Knitting. In this book, you’ll fi nd an array of socks that
deviate a little to a lot from the traditional top-down or toe-up construction. From the imaginative ways that heels,
gussets, and toes are formed to the ingenious directions of the knitting, this book will change the way you think about
knitting socks.
The eighteen designs herein represent the efforts of seventeen designers who have puzzled out new ways to knit
socks. The designs range from quite simple socks that are appropriate for fi rst-time sock knitters to quite challenging
socks that may require a leap of faith for those accustomed to traditional sock constructions.
The socks in this collection include mitered triangles and scallops, double knitting, intarsia in the round, short-
row shaping, mirrored color and texture patterns, the addition of laceweight mohair for warmth and durability, and
multiple knitting directions. In all cases, the instructions are written in step-by-step detail that will ensure success,
no matter which design you choose to knit.
The designs are separated into three chapters. Chapter 1 (beginning on page 8) covers socks that are knitted from
the top down. Chapter 2 (beginning on page 60) includes socks that are knitted from the toe up. But don’t expect
“normal” socks in these chapters—they all feature something different, whether it’s unusual heel, gusset, or toe
shaping, a clever use of color, or a neat trick in construction. Chapter 3 (beginning on page 94) includes socks that are
knitted from side to side, bottom of the sole to the top of the leg, and in multiple directions. These socks include true
engineering feats that are the marks of sock-knitting genius.
But before you begin any sock, you need to take fit, yarn, and gauge into consideration.
Fit
The best way to determine the size to knit is to wrap
a tape measure around the widest part of your foot
(Figure 1). To measure your foot length, place a ruler on
the floor and lightly step on it, aligning the back of your
heel with the “0" and measuring the length to the tip of
your longest toe (Figure 2). To measure your leg length,
hold a ruler against a wall with the “0" on the floor, then
place the back of your leg against the ruler and measure 1 2 3
how high up your leg you want the sock to extend
(Figure 3). If you’re knitting socks as a gift, use the table Choose a fi nished size that’s about ½ to 1 inch (1.3 to
on page 5 to get a general idea of foot (and therefore sock) 2.5 cm) smaller in circumference than your actual foot
size based on shoe size. measurement, unless otherwise directed. If there’s not
enough stretch, your foot will slide back and forth in the
In general, socks should fit with negative ease so
sock and cause friction points that are likely to wear out
that the stitches have to stretch to hug the foot and leg.
more quickly that the rest of the sock.
INTRODUCTION
nylon thread or yarn (available at most knitting stores sock will be knitted, using the same yarn, needles, and
that carry sock yarn) along as you knit the heel, toe, and stitch pattern you’ll use for the sock. Many knitters
any other areas of stress. Although the nylon doesn’t knit more tightly than they purl, or vice versa, so that
prevent the yarn from wearing, it’s much slower to wear the gauge they get working stockinette stitch in rounds
and therefore provides a thin foundation of stitches that (when the right side is always facing forward) is different
you can use as a guide for darning worn areas. from the gauge they get knitting back and forth in
The knitted fabric of a sock should be sturdy enough rows (when stockinette stitches are alternately knitted
to withstand the friction that results from walking and purled). Work a swatch large enough that you can
and rubbing inside a shoe. A perfectly fitting sock will measure at least 2 inches (5 cm) both horizontally (stitch
not wear well if the stitches are so loose that they slide gauge) and vertically (row gauge) well away from the
along the path of friction at the toes, bottom of foot, and edges of the swatch. To ensure an accurate reading, take
back of heel. For me, the sturdiest socks are knitted at measurements in two or three places. Also, be sure to
a gauge that’s one stitch per inch (2.5 cm) tighter than include any partial stitches in your gauge measurements.
recommended on the ball band. For example, if the ball Although a half stitch may not seem significant over a
band recommends knitting at a gauge of 7 stitches per 2-inch (5-cm) width, it can add an inch or more to the
inch (2.5 cm), I’ll knit that yarn at 8 stitches per inch entire sock circumference.
Women’s 5–7 / Men’s 4–6 (35–38) 8" (20.5 cm) 9½" (24 cm)
Women’s 8–10 / Men’s 7–9 (38.5–43) 9" (23 cm) 10¼" (26 cm)
Women’s 11–14 / Men’s 10–13 (44–48) 9¾" (25 cm) 11" (28 cm)
FOOT CIRCUMFERENCE
8¼" (21 cm) 9½" (24 cm) 10¼" (26 cm) 11" (28 cm)
INTRODUCTION
on the second. For this method, the round begins at the
side of the leg (between the instep and sole). The key is to
keep the stitches and the needles separate—each needle
is used only for the stitches it holds. Most followers of this
method use 16-inch or 24-inch (40 or 60 cm) circulars, on as it’s in progress. However, some knitters fi nd that
which have longer rigid needle sections that are easy to the needle not in use flops about in an annoying way.
handle. The advantages are 1) because there are only two
breaks between the needles, no needle is ever completely Anne Campbell’s Zigzags (page 104), Jennifer Leigh’s
empty (making it difficult to lose one), and 2) the stitches Tilt-A-Whirl (page 4), and Heidi Nick’s Gold Digger
can stretch over the cables, allowing the sock to be tried (page 52) specify this needle configuration.
Cleave Tilt−A−Whirl
Top−Down
Construction
Top-down sock construction is probably the most common method among Western knitters. The
sock begins with a flexible cast-on that can stretch over the heel. The leg is typically worked to the
desired length, then the heel stitches are worked back and forth in rows for the heel flap and heel
turn. Stitches are picked up along each side of the heel flap, then rejoined to the instep stitches for
working in rounds while gusset stitches are decreased to the desired number of foot stitches. The
foot is worked in rounds to the toe, which can be shaped a number of ways.
The seven socks in this chapter follow the general top-down method, but include clever alterations
or deviations that make uncommon socks from this common method.
Kate Atherley’s Mirror Socks (page 10) are somewhat of a knitted puzzle. The socks are worked
simultaneously, one inside the other, and not separated until the toes are complete. Then, the
inner sock is pulled out of the outer sock. For fun—and a bit of mental exercise—Kate alternated
the colors for the cuff, leg, heel, foot, and toe on the two socks.
Cat Bordhi’s Enduring Stripes (page 16) are worked according to standard top-down construction,
including her signature Sweet Tomato Heel. Cat added two colors of laceweight mohair along with
the sock yarn to provide extra strength, warmth, and a striped pattern that’s mirrored between
the two socks.
For her Crystalline socks (page 22), Carissa Browning worked a short-row variation of the
traditional flap-and-gusset heel and wedge toe. Throughout the sock, she added short-rows and
multidirectional knitting to create the faceted look of natural crystals. These socks are best
worked in solid-color yarns.
Rachel Coopey’s Bertha (page 32) follow the standard top-down construction, but she added visual
interest with colorwork patterns on the leg, heel flap, and toe. Like Kate Atherley’s Mirror Socks,
Rachel reversed the color placement on the two socks for a “fraternal” pair.
For Cleave (page 38), Hunter Hammersen worked a variation of the flap-and-gusset heel that’s
worked in rounds (no need to pick up gusset stitches). The heel is turned with short-rows, but part
of the sole is worked flat in rows.
Jennifer Leigh’s mirrored Tilt-A-Whirl socks (page 46) are a twist on traditional top-down shaping.
The leg is worked in a bias lace pattern, then the heel flap is shaped with gusset increases and the
heel is turned with short-rows. The foot follows Elizabeth Zimmermann’s arch-shaped foot, then
ends in a spiral toe that closes at the top of the foot rather than the tip of the toes.
Heidi Nick’s Gold Digger socks (page 52) feature a Fleegle heel (no need to pick up gusset stitches)
in which the gussets are worked simultaneously with the heel flap. The heel is turned with short-
rows. Heidi chose to continue the leg pattern along the top of the foot to the point at which the
toes are fi nished with Kitchener stitch.
Notes
• The two socks are worked at the same time the inside of the cylinder, and its yarn sits
in double knitting, with one sock inside at the back of the work. This is considered
the other; use a separate ball of yarn for “home position” for the yarns.
each sock.
• In “home position,” Y1 is whichever color
• The stitches are distributed on the needles is currently being used for the outer sock
so that one stitch for the outside sock is at the front of the work, and Y2 is the color
followed by one stitch for the inside sock. being for the inner sock at the back of the
work.
• You might need to use smaller needles
than usual to get gauge in double-knitting • Periodically, check to make sure the socks
stockinette stitch. remain separate. Look between the needle
tips as you work to be sure the layers have
• The two colors exchange places four times:
not become locked together and run your
after the ribbed cuff, at the start of the
fingers up from underneath, between the
heel flap, at the start of the gusset joining
two socks, all the way to the needles.
round, and at the beginning of the toe.
• It’s not unusual for the outer sock to get
• When swapping colors, cut the old color
ladders of loose stitches between the
leaving a 6" (15 cm) tail. Tie the new color
needles. This happens because the yarn has
around the old color, also leaving a 6"
to travel a little farther around the outside
(15 cm) tail, so that the knot of the new
of the cylinder between the needles. To
color can slide up the old tail and fit snugly
help alleviate the loose stitches, pull the
against the needle. Doing so will keep the
first two Y1 stitches after a needle change
last stitch of the old yarn and the first stitch
a little tighter than usual. Most ladders will
of the new yarn tight and tidy and reduce
disappear after washing and wearing, so
the risk of tangling. Tuck the tails between
don’t worry too much if you can’t eliminate
the two socks to keep them out of the way.
them entirely as you knit.
• For ease of knitting, the socks are worked
with their right sides touching to minimize
yarn movement and reduce tangling. For
12
the stockinette portions, the outer sock
has its purl side on the outside of the
cylinder, and its yarn sits at the front of the
work. The inner sock has its purl side on
MIRROR SOCKS
method (see Glossary), CO 56 (60, 64, 68, 72, 76) sts.
Arrange sts as preferred (see page 6), place marker (pm), work; the new Y2 will rem at the back.
and join for working in rnds, being careful not to twist sts. St st rnd: *P1 with Y1, k1 with Y2; rep from *.
Y1 set-up rnd: *K1, p1; rep from *. Rep the last rnd until piece measures 6½ (6½, 7, 8, 8, 8)"
Set aside. (16.5 [16.5, 18, 20.5, 20.5, 20.5] cm) from CO, or desired
length to top of heel flap.
With Yarn 2 (Y2) and spare needle(s), CO 56 (60, 64, 68, 72,
76) sts onto a single dpn or cir needle. Do not work any
sts yet.
Heels
Transfer sts to same needles: Hold the needles together
Cut the yarns and swap them again so that former Y1 sts
and parallel so the needle with the Y2 sts is behind the
will be worked with Y2, and former Y2 sts will be worked
needle with the Y1 sts. The working strand of Y1 should
with Y1; see the note at the start of the heel flaps for
be at the right needle tip, and the working strand from
yarn-handling instructions.
the Y2 cast-on should be at the end of the Y2 sts. Slip all
sts purlwise (pwise) with Y1 in front of work and Y2 in Heel Flaps
back of work.
Notes: The heel flaps are worked back and forth in
Without working any sts, slip sts alternately onto the stockinette double knitting on the fi rst half of the Y1
main needles as foll: *Sl 1 Y1 st pwise on front needle, stitches and the corresponding half of the Y2 stitches.
sl 1 Y2 st pwise from back needle onto front needle; rep When working in rows, purl or slip the stitches of the front
from *—112 (120, 128, 136, 144, 152) sts total on same layer (the side facing you) keeping the yarn in front (wyf);
needles; 56 (60, 64, 68, 72, 76) sts of each color, alternating and knit or slip the stitches of the back layer, keeping the
Y1 and Y2. yarn in back (wyb). Take care that the yarns don’t cross or
If working with multiple needles, make sure each needle interlock at the ends of the rows; the two heel flaps should
begins with a Y1 st and ends with a Y2 st, and if using remain completely separate from each other.
a single cir needle for magic-loop, make sure each side
begins with a Y1 st and ends with a Y2 st.
Y2 set-up rnd: Working with Y2 only, *sl 1 Y1 st, k1
with Y2, sl 1 Y1 st, p1 Y2 st; rep from *—all Y1 sts have
been slipped without being worked; one rnd of k1, p1 rib
completed on Y2 sts.
Note: When working k1, p1 rib in double knitting, move
Y1 to the back of the work to knit a Y1 stitch, then move
it to the front of the work again; move Y2 to the front
of the work to purl a Y2 stitch, then move it to the back
of the work again. You must always move the yarns in
this manner immediately before and after working a stitch;
otherwise, the two layers will become interlocked.
Rib rnd: Moving yarns as described in the note above, *k1
with Y1, k1 with Y2, p1 with Y1, p1 with Y2; rep from *.
Rep this rnd until pieces measure 1½" (3.8 cm) from CO.
Place a removable stitch marker in the fabric of the outer 13
sock to help you keep track of which is which when you
swap the two colors.
Gussets
Row 1: (Y1 side facing) [P1 with Y1, k1 with Y2] 28 (30, 32, Note: You’ll resume working in rounds with the outer
34, 36, 38) times—28 (30, 32, 34, 36, 38) sts for each heel sock facing you. When picking up stitches for the
flap. Place rem 28 (30, 32, 34, 36, 38) sts for each sock onto gusset, pick up stitches on the outer sock purlwise
holder to work later for instep. Turn work so Y2 side is (see Glossary); and pick up stitches for the inner sock
facing. knitwise (see Glossary).
Row 2: (Y2 side facing) Sl 1 Y2 st wyf, sl 1 Y1 st wyb, Cut the yarns. Exchange the colors, but rejoin them in
[p1 with Y2, k1 with Y1] 27 (29, 31, 33, 35, 37) times, turn the corner of the heel flap at the end of the instep sts.
work. The former Y1 sts will be worked with Y2; former Y2 sts
will be worked with Y1. As for the legs, the new Y1 will
Row 3: Sl 1 Y1 st wyf, sl 1 Y2 st wyb, [p1 with Y1, k1 with rem at the front of the work and the new Y2 will rem at
Y2] 27 (29, 31, 33, 35, 37) times, turn work. the back.
Row 4: Sl 1 Y2 st wyf, sl 1 Y1 st wyb, [p1 with Y2, k1 with Set-up rnd: Starting at end of instep sts, with outer sock
Y1] 27 (29, 31, 33, 35, 37) times, turn work. facing, [pick up 1 st pwise with Y1 from edge outer sock
Rep Rows 3 and 4 only 10 (11, 12, 13, 14, 16) more heel flap, pick up 1 st kwise with Y2 from edge of inner
times—24 (26, 28, 30, 32, 36) heel flap rows; flap measures sock heel flap] 14 (15, 16, 17, 18, 19) times. Work across 24
about 2 (2, 2¼, 2½, 2½, 2¾)" (5 [5, 5.5, 6.5, 6.5, 7] cm). (24, 24, 28, 28, 28) heel sts as [p1 with Y1, k1 with Y2] 12
(12, 12, 14, 14, 14) times. [Pick up 1 st pwise with Y1 from
Turn Heels edge of outer sock heel flap, pick up 1 st kwise with Y2
Notes: In order to work decreases, the stitches have to be from edge of inner sock heel flap] 14 (15, 16, 17, 18, 19)
rearranged so that two Y1 stitches are adjacent to each times. Work across 56 (60, 64, 68, 72, 76) held instep sts as
other, and two Y2 stitches are adjacent to each other. [p1 with Y1, k1 with Y2] 28 (30, 32, 34, 36, 38) times—136
14 You might fi nd a cable needle helpful for rearranging (144, 152, 164, 172, 180) sts total: 68 (72, 76, 82, 86, 90)
stitches. With the Y1 side facing, place 2 stitches (Y1 sts for each sock; pm for beg of rnd at start of sole sts. If
and Y2) onto a cable needle and hold in back of the work, you’re not dividing the sole and instep sts on separate
return the Y1 at the beginning of the cable needle to needles, place another marker at the end of the sole sts.
the left needle—2 sts of Y1 adjacent to each other at left Notes: As for the heel turn, rearrange the stitches as
needle tip. Work the Y1 decrease, return the Y2 stitch necessary for decreasing. These instructions use the
MIRROR SOCKS
Rnd 1: [P1tbl with Y1, k1tbl with Y2] 14 (15, 16, 17, 18, 19) color, and pull tight to cinch the holes at the tips of the
times along side of flap, [p1 with Y1, k1 with Y2] 12 (12, 12, toes.
14, 14, 14) times across heel sts, [p1tbl with Y1, k1tbl with Pull the socks apart triumphantly.
Y2] 14 (15, 16, 17, 18, 19) times along other side of flap, [p1
Block lightly.
with Y1, k1 with Y2] 28 (30, 32, 34, 36, 28) times across
instep sts. Weave in loose ends.
Rnd 2: (dec rnd) P1 with Y1, k1 with Y2, p2tog with Y1,
ssk with Y2, *p1 with Y1, k1 with Y2; rep from * to last 6
sole sts (3 sts for each sock), p2togtbl with Y1, k2tog with
Y2, **p1 with Y1, k1 with Y2; rep from ** to end of rnd—
4 sts total dec’d; 2 sts dec’d each sock.
Rnd 3: *P1 with Y1, k1 with Y2; rep from *.
Rep Rnds 2 and 3 only 5 (5, 5, 6, 6, 6) more times—112 (120,
128, 136, 144, 152) sts rem; 56 (60, 64, 68, 72, 76) sts for
each sock; 28 (30, 32, 34, 36, 38) sts for instep and sole of
each sock.
Feet
Cont even until feet measure 7¼ (7¾, 8, 8½, 8¾, 9¼)" (18.5
[19.5, 20.5, 21.5, 22, 23.5] cm) from center back heel or
1½ (1½, 1¾, 1¾, 2, 2)" (3.8 [3.8, 4.5, 4.5, 5, 5] cm) less than
desired total length (allowing for a bit of negative ease).
Toes
Cut the yarns and swap them so that former Y1 sts
will be worked with Y2 and former Y2 sts will be worked
with Y1. As for the legs and feet, the new Y1 will rem at
the front of the work and the new Y2 will rem at the back.
Dec rnd: P1 with Y1, k1 with Y2, p2tog with Y1, ssk with
Y2, *p1 with Y1, k1 with Y2; rep from * to last 6 sole sts
(3 sts for each sock), p2togtbl with Y1, k2tog with Y2, [p1
with Y1, k1 with Y2] 2 times, p2tog with Y1, ssk with Y2,
**p1 with Y1, k1 with Y2; rep from ** to last 6 sts (3 sts for
each sock), p2togtbl with Y1, k2tog with Y2, p1 with Y1, k1
with Y2—8 sts dec’d total; 4 sts dec’d for each sock; 2 sts
for top and bottom of each toe.
[Work 1 rnd even, rep dec rnd] 5 (6, 6, 7, 7, 8) times, then
work 1 rnd even—64 (64, 72, 72, 80, 80) sts rem; 32 (32, 36,
36, 40, 40) sts for each sock; 16 (16, 18, 18, 20, 20) sts for Kate Atherley is a very keen sock knitter who
is always seeking new and interesting ways to knit socks. 15
top and bottom of each toe. Rep dec rnd every rnd 6 (6, 7,
7, 8, 8) times—16 sts rem for all size; 8 sts on each sock; She’s written four books—most recently Custom Socks:
Knit to Fit Your Feet—and is a frequent contributor to
4 sts for top and bottom of each toe.
other publications, including Sockupied. You can find her
online at kateatherley.com.
Notes
• The stripes are created by Stitch Guide
changing the color of the
Leg-Stripe Pattern Foot-Stripe Pattern
laceweight mohair contrast color
(CC), which is held together with Work 51 rnds as follows, Work 51 rnds as follows,
the main color (MC). exchanging CC1 and CC2 exchanging CC1 and CC2
for the second sock. for the second sock.
• Work using one strand of MC held
together with one strand of either 1 rnd with MC and CC1. 6 rnds with MC and CC1.
CC1 or CC2 throughout. 6 rnds with MC and CC2. 6 rnds with MC and CC2.
• Use the jogless jog technique (see 2 rnds with MC and CC1. 5 rnds with MC and CC1.
Glossary) to prevent jogs from
6 rnds with MC and CC2. 6 rnds with MC and CC2.
forming between the last stitch of
one color on one round and the 3 rnds with MC and CC1. 4 rnds with MC and CC1.
first stitch of another color on the 6 rnds with MC and CC2. 6 rnds with MC and CC2.
next round.
4 rnds with MC and CC1. 3 rnds with MC and CC1.
• The first sock is predominantly
6 rnds with MC and CC2. 6 rnds with MC and CC2.
blue; the second sock is the
predominantly natural. 5 rnds with MC and CC1. 2 rnds with MC and CC1.
6 rnds with MC and CC2. 6 rnds with MC and CC2.
6 rnds with MC and CC1. 1 rnd with MC and CC1.
18
ENDURING STRIPES
sock as foll.
First Sock
With MC and CC2 held tog, use the Old Norwegian
method (see Glossary) to CO 56 (60, 64, 72, 80) sts.
Second Sock
With MC and CC1 held tog, use the Old Norwegian
method (see Glossary) to CO 56 (60, 64, 72, 80) sts.
Both Socks
Join for working in rnds; rnd begins at side of leg.
Next rnd: *K2, p2; rep from *.
Rep the last rnd for k2, p2 rib until piece measures
1¾" (4.5 cm) from CO.
Change to St st and work even until piece measures
2¾ (2¾, 3, 3½, 3½) “ (7 [7, 7.5, 9, 9] cm) from CO or 4½"
(11.5 cm) less than desired length to start of heel.
Work 51 rnds of leg-stripe patt (see Stitch Guide), reversing
CC1 and CC2 for second sock—piece measures about 7¼
(7¼, 7½, 8, 8)" (18.5 [18.5, 19, 20.5 20.5] cm) from CO.
Heel
Use different markers for A, B, and C so you can identify
each marker as you work. The heel is worked using MC
First Wedge
and CC2 for fi rst sock (MC and CC1 for second sock). The 18 (20, 22, 24, 26) sts between Markers A and B are the
instep sts. The heel is worked back and forth in rows on
Set-up rnd: K33 (35, 37, 42, 47), place Marker A, k18 (20,
the rem 38 (40, 42, 48, 54) sts, beg with a WS row worked
22, 24, 26), place Marker B, k5 (5, 5, 6, 7) to Marker C at
from Marker A, past Marker C, and ending at Marker B.
end of rnd, slip marker (sl m), and knit the fi rst 33 (35, 37,
42, 47) sts again to end at Marker A. Marker C will rem in place to mark the original beg-of-
rnd as you work the heel; slip Marker C as you come to it.
Note: Keep fi rm tension on the fi rst few stitches of each
short-row.
middle
C
ir
pa
pa
p
ir
ga
ga
ir
pa
B A
p
pa
p
ir
ga
ga
ir
pa
pa
front
p
ga
ir
ga
p
A B
19
Marker positions for heel: Working yarn is at Marker A. Wedge in process: Markers A and B mark the start and end
First row of heel will be a WS row that is purled of the heel. Slipped stitches (blue) begin each row. A pair of
counterclockwise from Marker A, past Marker C, stitches (a slipped stitch followed by a knit stitch when viewed
to end at Marker B. from the right side) is located above each gap.
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