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Frommer s Mexico 2005 Frommer s Complete David
Baird Digital Instant Download
Author(s): David Baird, Lynne Bairstow
ISBN(s): 9780764575952, 0764575953
Edition: Book and Map
File Details: PDF, 9.58 MB
Year: 2004
Language: english
 Mexico
2005
by David Baird & Lynne Bairstow

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 Mexico
2005
by David Baird & Lynne Bairstow

Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s:

“Amazingly easy to use. Very portable, very complete.”
—Booklist

“Detailed, accurate, and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.”

—Glamour Magazine

“Hotel information is close to encyclopedic.”

—Des Moines Sunday Register

“Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place.”
—Knight Ridder Newspapers
Published by:

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5 4 3 2 1
 Contents
List of Maps viii

What’s New in Mexico 1

1 The Best of Mexico 7

1 The Best Beach Vacations . . . . . .7 9 The Best Shopping . . . . . . . . . .17
2 The Best Cultural Experiences . . .10 10 The Hottest Nightlife . . . . . . . .18
3 The Best Festivals & 11 The Best Luxury Hotels . . . . . . .19
Celebrations . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11 12 The Best Unique Inns . . . . . . . .20
4 The Best Archaeological Sites . . .13 13 The Best Inexpensive Inns . . . . .21
5 The Best Active Vacations . . . . . .13 14 The Best Spa Resorts . . . . . . . .22
6 The Best of Natural Mexico . . . .14 15 The Best Mexican
7 The Best Places to Get Food & Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23
Away from It All . . . . . . . . . . . .15
8 The Best Art, Architecture &
Museums . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16

2 Planning Your Trip to Mexico 25

1 The Regions in Brief . . . . . . . . .25 Frommers.com: The Complete
Destination Mexico: Red Alert Travel Resource . . . . . . . . . . . .47
Checklist . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27 10 The 21st-Century Traveler . . . . .48
2 Visitor Information . . . . . . . . . .27 Online Traveler’s Toolbox . . . . .49
3 Entry Requirements & 11 Getting There . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50
Customs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28 Luxury Bus Service from
4 Money . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30 the Mexico City Airport . . . . . . .51
5 When to Go . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33 12 Packages for the Independent
Mexico Calendar of Events . . . .34 Traveler . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55
6 Travel Insurance . . . . . . . . . . . .39 Before You Book a Package . . .56
7 Health & Safety . . . . . . . . . . . .40 13 The Active Traveler . . . . . . . . . .58
Treating & Avoiding 14 Tips on Accommodations . . . . .61
Digestive Trouble . . . . . . . . . . .43 15 Getting Around Mexico . . . . . . .64
8 Specialized Travel Resources . . .44 16 Recommended Books . . . . . . . .67
9 Planning Your Trip Online . . . . .46 Fast Facts: Mexico . . . . . . . . . .68

3 Mexico City 74
1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .76 Mexico City Neighborhoods
Important Taxi Safety Precautions in Brief . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .82
in Mexico City . . . . . . . . . . . . .78 2 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . .84
iv CONTENTS

Fast Facts: Mexico City . . . . . . .89 6 Organized Tours . . . . . . . . . . .124

3 Where to Stay . . . . . . . . . . . . .92 7 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .125
4 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . . .99 8 Mexico City After Dark . . . . . .129
¡Café, Por Favor! . . . . . . . . . .104 9 A Side Trip to the Pyramids
5 Exploring Mexico City . . . . . . .105 of San Juan Teotihuacán . . . . .134

Silver, Spas & Spiritual Centers:

4 From Taxco to Tepoztlán 138
1 Taxco: Cobblestones & Silver . . .138 4 Cuernavaca: Land of
Spanish & Art Classes Eternal Spring . . . . . . . . . . . . .152
in Taxco . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .142 Fast Facts: Cuernavaca . . . . . .156
2 Ixtapan de la Sal: A Thermal 5 Tepoztlán . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .163
Spa Town . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .149
3 Valle de Bravo & Avándaro:
Mexico’s Switzerland . . . . . . .150

San Miguel de Allende &

5 the Colonial Silver Cities 166
1 San Miguel de Allende . . . . . .168 3 Santiago de Querétaro . . . . . .196
Fast Facts: San Miguel Fast Facts: Querétaro . . . . . . .199
de Allende . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .170 Shopping for Opals . . . . . . . . .202
Learning at the Source: Going 4 Zacatecas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .204
to School in San Miguel . . . . .174
Fast Facts: Zacatecas . . . . . . .207
2 Guanajuato . . . . . . . . . . . . . .183
5 San Luis Potosí . . . . . . . . . . . .214
Fast Facts: Guanajuato . . . . . .186
Fast Facts: San Luis Potosí . . . .216
The Redolent Mexican
Cantina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .195

6 Michoacán 222
1 Morelia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .223 2 Pátzcuaro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .234
Fast Facts: Morelia . . . . . . . . .224 Fast Facts: Pátzcuaro . . . . . . .236
Michoacán’s Monarch 3 Uruapan: Handicrafts &
Migration . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .233 Volcanoes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .244

7 Guadalajara 247
1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . .247 4 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . .256
Guadalajara Neighborhoods 5 Exploring Guadalajara . . . . . .260
in Brief . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .248 6 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .264
2 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . .250 7 Guadalajara After Dark . . . . . .267
Fast Facts: Guadalajara . . . . . .251 Tequila: The Name
3 Where to Stay . . . . . . . . . . . .252 Says It All . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .267
 CONTENTS v

8 Puerto Vallarta & the Central Pacific Coast 269

1 Puerto Vallarta . . . . . . . . . . . .269 Mazatlán’s Carnaval:
Fast Facts: Puerto Vallarta . . . .275 A Weeklong Party . . . . . . . . .324
A Huichol Art Primer: 3 Costa Alegre: Puerto Vallarta
Shopping Tips . . . . . . . . . . . .288 to Barra de Navidad . . . . . . . .333
2 Mazatlán . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .317 4 Manzanillo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .344
Fast Facts: Mazatlán . . . . . . . .320 Fast Facts: Manzanillo . . . . . .347

9 Acapulco & the Southern Pacific Coast 355

1 Acapulco . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .356 Fast Facts: Puerto
Fast Facts: Acapulco . . . . . . . .361 Escondido . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .397
2 Northward to Zihuatanejo Ecotours & Other Adventurous
& Ixtapa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .377 Explorations . . . . . . . . . . . . . .400
Fast Facts: Zihuatanejo 4 Bahías de Huatulco . . . . . . . .408
& Ixtapa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .381 Fast Facts: Bahías
3 Puerto Escondido . . . . . . . . . .394 de Huatulco . . . . . . . . . . . . . .411

10 The Southernmost States: Oaxaca & Chiapas 417

1 Oaxaca City . . . . . . . . . . . . . .418 The Zapatista Uprising &
Fast Facts: Oaxaca . . . . . . . . .423 Lingering Tensions . . . . . . . . .448
Oaxacan Street Food . . . . . . .434 Fast Facts: San Cristóbal
de las Casas . . . . . . . . . . . . .449
Shopping Splendor: Oaxaca’s
Market Villages . . . . . . . . . . .440 Special Events in & near
San Cristóbal . . . . . . . . . . . . .452
2 San Cristóbal de las Casas . . .445
3 Palenque . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .461

11 Veracruz & Puebla: On the Heels of Cortez 469

1 Veracruz City . . . . . . . . . . . . .469 3 Colonial Puebla . . . . . . . . . . .484
Fast Facts: Veracruz . . . . . . . .471 Fast Facts: Puebla . . . . . . . . .487
2 Exploring North of Veracruz: “Cinco de Mayo” &
Ruins, More Ruins & a Great the Battle of Puebla . . . . . . . .488
Museum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .477

12 Cancún 498
1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . .499 3 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . .512
The Best Websites 4 Beaches, Watersports &
for Cancún . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .500 Boat Tours . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .517
Fast Facts: Cancún . . . . . . . . .503 5 Outdoor Activities
2 Where to Stay . . . . . . . . . . . .504 & Attractions . . . . . . . . . . . . .521
vi CONTENTS

6 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .522 8 Day Trips: Archaeological

7 Cancún After Dark . . . . . . . . .523 Sites & Eco-Theme Parks . . . . .525

13 Isla Mujeres & Cozumel 530

The Best Websites for Isla Fast Facts: Isla Mujeres . . . . . .534
Mujeres & Cozumel . . . . . . . .530 2 Cozumel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .543
1 Isla Mujeres . . . . . . . . . . . . . .531 Fast Facts: Cozumel . . . . . . . .546

The Caribbean Coast: The Riviera Maya, including

14 Playa del Carmen & the Costa Maya 559
The Best Websites for Playa Tulum: A Friendly Difference
del Carmen & the of Opinion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .588
Caribbean Coast . . . . . . . . . .562 The Sian Ka’an Biosphere
1 Playa del Carmen . . . . . . . . . .563 Reserve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .591
Fast Facts: Playa 5 Cobá Ruins . . . . . . . . . . . . . .592
del Carmen . . . . . . . . . . . . . .565 6 Majahual, Xcalak &
2 North of Playa del Carmen . . .574 the Chinchorro Reef . . . . . . . .595
3 South of Playa del Carmen . . .580 7 Lago Bacalar . . . . . . . . . . . . .598
4 Tulum, Punta Allen 8 Chetumal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .599
& Sian Ka’an . . . . . . . . . . . . .586 9 The Río Bec Ruin Route . . . . .601

15 Mérida, Chichén Itzá & the Maya Interior 607

The Best Websites for Mérida, Fast Facts: Mérida . . . . . . . . .613
Chichén Itzá & the Maya 2 The Ruins of Uxmal . . . . . . . .633
Interior . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .608
3 The Ruins of Chichén Itzá . . . .639
1 Mérida: Gateway to the
4 Valladolid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .647
Maya Heartland . . . . . . . . . . .609
Festivals & Special Events
in Mérida . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .611

16 The Copper Canyon 652

1 The Copper Canyon Train 2 Los Mochis: The Western
& Stops along the Way . . . . . .654 Terminus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .663
Choosing a Package or 3 Chihuahua: The Eastern
Tour Operator . . . . . . . . . . . .656 Terminus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .666
Fast Facts: Chihuahua . . . . . .668

17 Los Cabos & Baja California 672

The Best Websites for Fast Facts: San José
Los Cabos & Baja . . . . . . . . . .674 del Cabo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .676
1 Los Cabos: Resorts, Fast Facts: Cabo San Lucas . . .690
Watersports & Golf . . . . . . . . .674
 CONTENTS vii

The Lowdown on Golf 4 Mid-Baja: Loreto, Mulegé

in Cabo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .694 & Santa Rosalía . . . . . . . . . . .709
2 Todos Santos: A Creative Whale-Watching in Baja . . . . .716
Oasis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .701 5 Tijuana & Rosarito Beach . . . .717
3 La Paz: Peaceful Port Town . . . .703 6 Ensenada: Port of Call . . . . . .723
Fast Facts: La Paz . . . . . . . . . .705

Appendix A: Mexico in Depth 726

1 The Land & Its People . . . . . . .726 2 A Look at the Past . . . . . . . . .727

Appendix B: Useful Terms & Phrases 732

1 Telephones & Mail . . . . . . . . .732 3 Menu Glossary . . . . . . . . . . . .735
2 Basic Vocabulary . . . . . . . . . .732

Index 738
 List of Maps

Mexico 8 Downtown Zihuatanejo 385

Mexico City & Environs 75 Puerto Escondido 395
Downtown Mexico City 86 Oaxaca Area 419
Polanco/Chapultepec Area 93 Downtown Oaxaca 421
Historic Downtown (Centro Monte Albán 439
Histórico) 107 San Cristóbal de las Casas 447
Chapultepec Park 109 Palenque Archaeological Site 463
Coyoacán 111 Downtown Veracruz 471
San Angel 113 Xalapa Orientation 479
Alameda Park Area 115 Puebla 485
Teotihuacán 135 Tlaxcala 495
Side Trips from Mexico City 140 Downtown Cancún 501
Taxco 143 Isla Cancún (Zona Hotelera) 505
Ixtapan de la Sal 151 Isla Mujeres 533
Valle de Bravo & Avándaro 153 Cozumel 545
Cuernavaca 155 San Miguel de Cozumel 549
The Colonial Silver Cities 167 The Yucatán Peninsula 560
Where to Stay in San Miguel de Playa del Carmen 565
Allende 169
The Yucatán’s Upper Caribbean
Guanajuato 185 Coast 575
Santiago de Querétaro 197 Tulum Ruins 587
Zacatecas 205 The Yucatán’s Lower Caribbean
San Luis Potosí 215 Coast 597
Morelia 225 Where to Stay & Dine
Pátzcuaro 235 in Mérida 615
Uruapan 245 Uxmal Ruins 635
Greater Guadalajara 249 Chichén Itzá Ruins 641
Downtown Guadalajara 261 The Copper Canyon 653
Puerto Vallarta: Hotel Zone & Chihuahua 667
Beaches 271 The Baja Peninsula 673
Downtown Puerto Vallarta 287 San José del Cabo 679
Mazatlán Area 319 The Two Cabos &
Costa Alegre & Central Pacific the Corridor 686
Coast 335 Cabo San Lucas 689
Barra de Navidad Bay Area 339 The Lower Baja Peninsula 711
Manzanillo Area 345 Tijuana 719
Acapulco Bay Area 358 The Upper Baja Peninsula 722
Zihuatanejo & Ixtapa Area 379
An Invitation to the Reader
In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants,
shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share
the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed
with a recommendation, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to:
Frommer’s Mexico 2005
Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774

An Additional Note
Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time—and this is
especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirma-
tion when making your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held
responsible for the experiences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us,
however, so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a
close eye on cameras, purses, and wallets, all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets.

About the Authors

David Baird is a writer, editor, and translator who doesn’t much like writing about himself
in the third person (too close to being an obituary). Texan by birth, Mexican by disposition,
he has lived several years in different parts of Mexico. Now based in Austin, Texas, he spends
as much time in Mexico as possible. At home his hobbies include painting, scraping, mow-
ing, patching drywall, and extemporaneous engineering.
For Lynne Bairstow, Mexico has become more home than her native United States. She
has lived in Puerto Vallarta for most of the past 12 years. Her travel articles on Mexico have
appeared in the New York Times, San Francisco Chronicle, Los Angeles Times, Frommer’s
Budget Travel magazine, and Alaska Airlines magazine. In 2000, Lynne was awarded the
Pluma de Plata, a top honor granted by the Mexican government to foreign writers, for her
work in the Frommer’s guidebook to Puerto Vallarta.

Other Great Guides for Your Trip:

Frommer’s Cancún, Cozumel & the Yucatán
Frommer’s Portable Los Cabos & Baja
Frommer’s Portable Acapulco, Ixtapa & Zihuatanejo
Frommer’s Portable Puerto Vallarta, Manzanillo & Guadalajara
Mexico’s Beach Resorts For Dummies
Frommer’s Star Ratings, Icons & Abbreviations
Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality,
value, service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating system. In country, state,
and regional guides, we also rate towns and regions to help you narrow down your choices
and budget your time accordingly. Hotels and restaurants are rated on a scale of zero (rec-
ommended) to three stars (exceptional). Attractions, shopping, nightlife, towns, and
regions are rated according to the following scale: zero stars (recommended), one star
(highly recommended), two stars (very highly recommended), and three stars (must-see).
In addition to the star-rating system, we also use seven feature icons that point you
to the great deals, in-the-know advice, and unique experiences that separate travelers from
tourists. Throughout the book, look for:

Finds Special finds—those places only insiders know about

Fun Fact Fun facts—details that make travelers more informed and their trips
more fun

Kids Best bets for kids and advice for the whole family

Moments Special moments—those experiences that memories are made of

Overrated Places or experiences not worth your time or money

Tips Insider tips—great ways to save time and money

Value Great values—where to get the best deals

The following abbreviations are used for credit cards:

AE American Express DISC Discover V Visa
DC Diners Club MC MasterCard

Frommers.com
Now that you have the guidebook to a great trip, visit our website at www.frommers.com
for travel information on more than 3,000 destinations. With features updated regularly,
we give you instant access to the most current trip-planning information available. At
Frommers.com, you’ll also find the best prices on airfares, accommodations, and car
rentals—and you can even book travel online through our travel booking partners. At
Frommers.com, you’ll also find the following:
• Online updates to our most popular guidebooks
• Vacation sweepstakes and contest giveaways
• Newsletter highlighting the hottest travel trends
• Online travel message boards with featured travel discussions
 What’s New in Mexico
T hese days, Mexico is an attractive
destination for travelers. In the last
parties won many seats in the national
legislative assembly. Power is now
year the Mexican peso has declined much more evenly divided, which
against the dollar, even as the dollar could lead to a government of inaction
has declined against most major cur- for the duration of Fox’s presidency.
rencies. This makes Mexico inexpen- PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO
sive for Americans, Canadians, and MEXICO Frontier Airlines (www.
especially Brits. The price difference frontierairlines.com) opened new
isn’t very large on the coast, where service or expanded service to popular
hotels and resorts peg their rates to the Mexican beach destinations in late
dollar, but, in the cities and towns of 2003. Routes now include nonstop
the peninsula’s interior, the bargain service from Denver to Puerto Val-
rates are readily noticeable. larta, Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo, Los Cabos,
And the present political climate Cancún, and Mazatlán.
has changed perceptions of Mexico. Web travel merchants like Orbitz
Before terrorism became a major con- and Expedia have expanded their
cern for travelers, many perceived international air fare offerings to give
Mexico as a riskier destination than consumers considerably more itiner-
Europe. Today, the reverse is the case; ary and airline choices. Where these
going to Mexico is seen as relatively online travel services have built a solid
trouble-free travel. With these advan- reputation—and following—for clients
tages, Mexico has enjoyed a surge in looking for U.S. travel, international
the number of visitors. bookings were generally not available.
Politically and socially, Mexico Aeromexico became the first carrier
remains stable. Like the U.S., it has to offer nonstop service between
been experiencing economic hard Boston and Mexico City, with contin-
times. On the national scene, the eco- uing service to Cancún. Beginning in
nomic slowdown comes at a bad time February 2004, Aeromexico now
for Mexico, which is experimenting operates daily flights between the two
with democratic pluralism and multi- cities.
party government for the first time in Mexicana announced the adapta-
its history. There is a growing impa- tion of its executive lounges into
tience with the rate of reform, and hotspots, offering passengers wireless
debate over the direction of President high-speed Internet access. Initially,
Vicente Fox’s economic policies and Mexicana set up the new technology
whether they will increase employ- at its lounges in Mexico City, Los
ment. But this has not led to very Angeles, and San Antonio, and later in
much political and social unrest. Acapulco, Cancún, and Guadalajara.
Instead, the public took out its frus- Access will cost users $3 for 2 hours,
trations at the ballot box. In recent $11 per day, $35 per week, and $65
elections, the two main opposition per month.
2 W H AT ’ S N E W

Fort Lauderdale, Florida–based “Tourist Security” program that is part

Spirit Airlines (www.spiritair.com) of the city’s efforts to reduce crime and
began flying to Cancún in December increase tourism. The ongoing pro-
2003, launching the airline’s first gram includes English lessons and
international route. In answer to a educational tours of spots frequented
growing demand for low-fare serv- by tourists in Mexico City, including
ice to Cancún, the daily nonstop museums, churches, and historical
Cancún–Fort Lauderdale flight will sites. Earlier in 2003, police on horse-
connect the resort with Detroit, back wearing traditional Mexican
Chicago/O’Hare, Atlantic City, New charro outfits—complete with wide-
York/LaGuardia, Washington, D.C./ brimmed sombreros—began patrolling
Reagan National, and Myrtle Beach. the 22-acre Alameda Park in the capi-
Fares from Fort Lauderdale to Cancún tal’s historic district.
begin at $79. Accommodations After several years
Alaska Airlines (www.alaskaair. of planning and anticipation, W
com) has added daily service to Hotels (www.starwood.com) opened
Guadalajara from Los Angeles, its first hotel in Latin America, the W
increasing the number of Alaska’s Mexico City, located in the upscale
Mexican destinations to seven. The Polanco district, on the corner of
airline serves numerous flights Campos Eliseos and Andres Bello. In
between the U.S. and Cancún, Ixtapa, keeping with the brand’s focus on
Los Cabos, Manzanillo, Mazatlán, unique design, the 25-story, 237-
and Puerto Vallarta. room hotel features cherry-red rooms,
Continental Airlines (www. hammocks in the showers, a sunken
continental.com) recently introduced private dining room, and a transparent-
seasonal nonstop service between glass facade over the first five floors,
Houston and Manzanillo. giving sidewalk voyeurs a glimpse of
In February 2004, United Airlines the hotel’s restaurant, bar, and lounge
(www.united.com) began exclusive, scene inside. Facilities include
Saturday-only service to Cancún from Whiskey, Rande Gerber’s first bar out-
its East Coast hub at Washington side the U.S., a signature restaurant, a
Dulles International Airport. United full-service spa, a ballroom and con-
currently offers daily flights to Mexico ference center, and nine high-
City from Washington Dulles. ceilinged “loft suites.”
MEXICO CITY For complete The Hotel Habita (www.hotel
information, see chapter 3. habita.com) in Mexico City was
As part of a larger downtown named winner of this year’s Business
redevelopment project, Mexico City’s Week/Architectural Record Award for
16-sq.-km (6-sq.-mile) historical cen- “Designing for Well-Being: Environ-
ter is getting a face-lift, due to a mul- ments that Enhance the Quality of
timillion-dollar public and private Life.” With only 32 rooms and four
joint venture. The project includes the junior suites, this luxury boutique
renovation of old buildings, cleaning hotel is located in the heart of the
and scrubbing the city streets, addi- upscale Polanco district in Mexico
tion of streetlights, planting of flow- City. One of the most interesting fea-
ers, and restoration of colonial tures of the hotel is its frosted glass
buildings, many of which were built facade, giving the building a glowing
on foundations that are now sinking. look. Among other amenities, the
More than 400 police officers in hotel features a lap pool and an open-
Mexico City recently completed a air rooftop terrace.
 W H AT ’ S N E W 3

Attractions Mexico City inaugu- include six pairs of Teotihuacan-style

rated Latin America’s tallest building ceramic urns, ceramic domestic tools,
in late June 2003. The Torre Mayor a bone needle, a figurine believed to
(Highest Tower) is located on the be used in rituals, and remnants of a
city’s main boulevard, Paseo de la stone wall and floor dating from the
Reforma, and measures 225m (740 same period. Located north of Mexico
ft.) in height. The towering 55-story City, the ancient city of Teotihuacan
glass-fronted structure also features was one of the largest cities in the
30 high-speed elevators and 12 levels world around the time of Christ, with
of parking for 2,000 cars. an estimated 150,000 inhabitants.
Tourists to Mexico City are finding These are the first remains to be found
the Turibus, the city’s new, red double- in Chapultepec Park, which served as
decker tourist bus, a great way to see a retreat for rulers from Aztec kings to
sights around the capital. Since it Emperor Maximillian. The new site’s
began service in September 2002, the excavation began with a restoration of
bus has shuttled more than 62,000 the castle in 1998. At present, the site
passengers around town, according to is closed to tourists.
Mexico’s Ministry of Tourism (SEC- OAXACA Continental Airlines is
TUR). The tour covers 35km (22 testing nonstop service between Oax-
miles) from the National Auditorium aca and Houston. See chapter 10.
to the city center and from there to
the Plaza de las Tres Culturas, return- PUEBLA Scheduled to reopen in
ing via Avenida Reforma toward the early 2005 after extensive renovation,
neighborhood of Polanco, and finally Puebla’s Museo Bello y González will
to the Children’s Museum (Museo del be a can’t-miss attraction. The collec-
Niño). For those who stay on for the tion abounds with fine decorative
full ride, the circuit lasts approxi- work from three continents. See chap-
mately 3 hours. Tickets cost about $10 ter 11.
and are valid for an entire day. Head- PUERTO VALLARTA & THE
sets provide information in several CENTRAL PACIFIC COAST For
languages, and English-speaking host- complete information, see chapter 8.
esses are also on-board to offer addi- Accommodations The enchanting
tional assistance. Each unit passes by Hacienda San Angel (& 322/222-
at 15- to 30-minute intervals, accord- 2692; www.haciendasanangel.com)
ing to demand. Hours of operation are has opened its doors in downtown
year-round from 9am to 9pm; no Puerto Vallarta. Once the home of
tours on December 25 or January 1. Richard Burton, this stylish, sophisti-
Archaeologists have discovered an cated bed-and-breakfast offers guests
ancient Teotihuacan settlement in their choice of nine suites, a heated
central Mexico City behind the land- terrace pool, and a host of pampering
mark Chapultepec Castle. The discov- amenities.
ery of artifacts some 48km (30 miles) Attractions Vallarta Adventures
from the pyramids where the Teoti- (& 866/256-2739; www.vallarta-
huacan culture flourished 2,000 years adventures.com) launched an excur-
ago suggests the Teotihuacan culture sion to Talpa and Mascota, beginning
spread and influenced the area around in late 2003. The 6-hour guided tour
Mexico City earlier than previously offers visitors insight into the everyday
thought. The discovery might push customs and traditions of life in
the date of Mexico City’s founding authentic Mexican towns. Mascota is
back to the classic Teotihuacan period a 16th-century agricultural town
of A.D. 300 to A.D 600. Relics found nestled at the foot of the Sierra Madre
4 W H AT ’ S N E W

mountains. The pine-and-oak forested CANCUN For complete informa-

colonial town, established in 1592 by tion, see chapter 12. Cancún is step-
early Spanish colonists, is one of the ping up its efforts to attract the
many stops on the tour, as is Talpa de growing golf travel market, with an
Allende, which is considered to be expansion of its golf offerings. Close
one of the most important religious to $200 million will be invested over
centers in Mexico. Talpa is famous the next several years in the develop-
throughout Mexico for its Gothic ment and construction of new golf
church dedicated to the Virgen courses in Cancún’s state of Quintana
Rosario de Talpa, to where pilgrims Roo. Together, Cancún, Playa del Car-
from throughout Mexico journey to men, and Cozumel have eight courses.
pray for miracles. The 6-hour tour The creation of eight more courses is
costs $130 per person, including being planned. A current promotional
transportation via private air charter. campaign is also in progress to host
ACAPULCO & THE SOUTHERN major golf events, including the 2004
PACIFIC COAST For complete Mexican Open Golf Tournament, to
information, see chapter 9. be held from December 11 to Decem-
ber 14. This event will be held at the
Acapulco Acapulco has a new venue Moon Palace Resort’s golf courses in
for cultural and social events that dou- Cancún, with participation of golfers
bles as a small inn for up to 18 guests. from Mexico and abroad. For more
Built in the 1950s and recently reno- information visit www.golf.com.mx.
vated, Villa Manuia (& 744/484-
0894 or 744/484-1273) is owned by Accommodations The Ritz-
Mexican writer Manu Dornbierer. It Carlton Cancún (& 800/241-3333;
features four suites for 18 guests and www.ritzcarlton.com) recently opened
offers several spaces for cultural and the Cobalt Lounge, the first Club
social events. The villa’s garden, for Level lounge reserved exclusively for
example, seats up to 150 guests and is adult guests among the 54 Ritz-
ideal for weddings or cocktails. On the Carlton Hotels worldwide. The 2,044-
first Saturday of every other month, sq.-m (2,200-sq.-ft.) lounge seats 30
Villa Manuia features exhibits from and is located on the ninth floor, one
local artists and artisans in the garden. floor above the existing Club Level
Lounge. Open from 5:30 to 8pm, it
Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo Meliá Azul offers a full cocktail menu, compli-
Ixtapa (& 800/336-3542; www. mentary canapés, and live music. The
solmelia.com) has completed a $22 lounge name salutes the famous Ritz-
million expansion, complete with a Carlton blue cobalt goblets intro-
new convention center. The two- duced at The Ritz-Carlton Boston in
story convention center will offer 1927.
5,775 sq. m (19,250 sq. ft.) of meeting The renowned French chain Sofitel
space that can be divided into seven announced plans to open a new hotel,
meetings rooms, as well as a business the Sofitel Resort Cancún, its first
center and executive lounge. The new property in Mexico. Scheduled to
tower will also house an additional open in the fall of 2004, the Cancún’s
137 guest rooms, bringing the total Sofitel will consist of 400 guest rooms,
room count to 410 rooms and suites. three restaurants, and a spa.
OAXACA & CHIAPAS The flights Attractions Garrafón Park (www.
between Mexico City and San garrafon.com) in Isla Mujeres offers a
Cristóbal de las Casas have ceased. new thrill-seeker’s adventure activity
Your best option now is to fly into called the “Zip Line,” where you can
Tuxtla Gutiérrez.
 W H AT ’ S N E W 5

sail over clear blue water harnessed to American Airlines is testing regular
a cable, reaching speeds of up to commercial service between Cozumel
48kmph (30 mph). In addition, Gar- and Dallas.
rafón Park also offers underwater THE RIVIERA MAYA For com-
museums, snorkeling through artifi- plete information on this region, see
cial reefs, and other activities. chapter 14.
Cancún’s Parque de las Palapas
has undergone renovations to upgrade Puerto Morelos & Environs The
its offerings of weekend live music and car ferry to Cozumel now leaves from
danzones, the graceful dances of gener- the Calica pier, just south of Playa.
ations past. The city’s municipal There is still one early-morning ferry,
orchestra, which recently expanded its but it is mostly for commercial cargo.
concert schedule, can also be heard Playa del Carmen Playa keeps
there on Sunday afternoons. growing and keeps feeling the growing
With routes that travel throughout pains. There has been a legal struggle
the Hotel Zone and into the down- over the construction of a new pier at
town area, Cancún’s 24-hour bus sys- the end of Avenida Constituyentes for
tem is making it even easier to travel passenger ferries to Cozumel. Another
around this popular resort. The fare is battle is brewing over whether to make
only 60¢, and in an effort to further Playa a homeport for cruise ships.
encourage the use of Cancún’s public Costa Maya The widening of the
transportation system, two local com- highway between Limones and
panies have produced THEMAP, a Bacalar has been completed. It is now
pocket-size guide that outlines the bus a modern four-lane highway. The
route and highlights points of interest same is true for the road from
and other useful information. The Limones out to the Majahual coast.
guide is available at the Cancún Inter- Río Bec Ruins Parts of the ruins in
national Airport, on buses, and in Becán remain closed for restoration
most hotels. after they were damaged by a hurri-
After Dark In 2004, Avalon Resorts cane a few years ago.
is slated to open The City, a high-con- MERIDA, CHICHEN ITZA &
cept nightclub, beach bar, and lounge THE MAYA INTERIOR For com-
featuring a world-famous porterhouse plete information on this region, see
grill. Meant to evoke a “city within a chapter 15.
city,” the property, located in the
Hotel Zone, will feature a three- Mérida The city tourism office has
dimensional urban skyline of sky- changed its phone number to & 999/
scrapers and city towers. 942-0000, ext. 133. The location
remains the same. Also, check out the
ISLA MUJERES & COZUMEL For much-improved website at www.
complete information, see chapter 13. merida.gob.mx.
Cozumel There are now two com- Construction has begun on the new
panies ferrying passengers between city market, designed to include green
Cozumel and Playa del Carmen. space and better parking. But until, it’s
Unfortunately, they insist on leaving completed, expect an increase in traf-
at the same time rather than stagger- fic jams in that part of the city, just
ing their trips, so the new company southeast of the main square.
doesn’t add more than a couple of LOS CABOS & BAJA CALIFOR-
departure times to the service that was NIA For complete information, see
being provided by the first company. chapter 17.
6 W H AT ’ S N E W

Accommodations The One & and a major Latin American art col-
Only Palmilla resort in Los Cabos, lection. To introduce guests to the
now owned by Kertzner Intl., resort, special spa and golf packages
reopened in January 2004, following are being made available.
an $80 million renovation that lasted JTL Capital, of Dallas, TX, recently
10 months. As part of the renovation, purchased the Las Ventanas al
Palmilla opened C, a fine dining Paraíso resort in Los Cabos from its
restaurant owned by celebrity chef original Mexican owners. Rosewood
Charlie Trotter, and the resort’s room Hotels & Resorts, which has managed
count increased to 172 rooms and Las Ventanas since the property
suites. Kerzner launched One&Only opened in July 1997, will continue
as a luxury brand in Europe in late operating the resort under a new long-
2002. term management agreement. As part
The 237-suite Marquis Los Cabos of the deal, Las Ventanas will expand
Beach, Golf, Spa & Casitas Resort its spa and fitness center, build a
(& 877/238-9399; www.marquislos library and espresso bar, and expand
cabos.com), located along the Corri- its shopping area.
dor connecting San José and Cabo San In Todos Santos, the legendary
Lucas, opened its doors in April 2003. Hotel California (& 612/145-0525
Since opening, it has been named to or 612/145-0522) has reopened, fol-
Leading Hotels of the World, Ltd., a lowing a complete renovation. The
prestigious luxury marketing organi- newly hip hotel is decorated in daz-
zation representing 400 of the world’s zling style, with jewel hues and each
finest hotels. The Marquis Los Cabos room styled in a unique manner. A
is one of only 15 hotels in Mexico to new boutique—The Emporio Hotel
receive this recognition. The resort California—and the La Colonela
features a dramatic 11m (36-ft.) water- Restaurant and Bar are also note-
fall, a chef with a Michelin pedigree, worthy additions.
 1
The Best of Mexico
A cross Mexico, in villages and cities, in mountains, tropical coasts, and jungle
settings, enchanting surprises await travelers. These might take the form of a
fantastic small-town festival, delightful dining in a memorable restaurant, or
even a stretch of road through heavenly countryside. Below is a starter list of our
favorites, to which you’ll have the pleasure of adding your own discoveries.

1 The Best Beach Vacations

• Puerto Vallarta: Spectacularly • Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo: These side-
wide Banderas Bay offers 42km by-side resorts offer beach-goers
(26 miles) of beaches. Some, like the best of both worlds: serene
Playa Los Muertos—the popular simplicity and resort comforts.
public beach in town—abound For those in search of a back-to-
with palapa restaurants, beach basics beach, the best and most
volleyball, and parasailing. The beautiful is Playa La Ropa, close
beaches of Punta Mita, the exclu- to Zihuatanejo. The wide beach at
sive development north of Val- Playa Las Gatas, with its restau-
larta, are of the white-sand variety, rants and snorkeling sites, is also a
with crystalline waters and coral great place to play. The luxury
reefs just offshore. Others around hotels in Ixtapa, on the next bay
the bay nestle in coves, accessible over from Zihuatanejo, front
only by boat. Puerto Vallarta is the Playa Palmar, a fine, wide swath of
only place where authentic colo- beach. See “Northward to Zihu-
nial ambience mixes with true atanejo & Ixtapa,” in chapter 9.
resort amenities. See “Puerto Val- • Cancún: In terms of sheer beauty,
larta,” in chapter 8. Mexico’s best beaches are in
• Puerto Escondido: The best over- Cancún and along the Yucatán’s
all beach value in Mexico is prin- Quintana Roo coast, extending
cipally known for its world-class south almost all the way to the
surfing beach, Playa Zicatela. The Belizean border. The powdery,
surrounding beaches all have their white-sand beaches boast water
own appeal; colorful fishing pan- the color of a Technicolor dream;
gas dot the central town beach, it’s so clear you can see through to
parked under the shade of palms the coral reefs below. Cancún
leaning so far over they almost offers the widest assortment of
touch the ground. Puerto Escon- luxury beachfront hotels, with
dido offers unique accommoda- more restaurants, nightlife, and
tions at excellent prices, with activities than any other resort
exceptional budget dining and destination in the country. See
nightlife. See “Puerto Escondido,” chapter 12.
in chapter 9.
 8 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF MEXICO

Mexico
Tijuana
Mexicali U NITED
NIT ED S TAT
TA TES
ES
Ensenada 2

BAJA Ciudad
CALIFORNIA Juárez
Ju rez
NORTE Puerto Nogales
Penasco 2
San
Quintin See Chapter 16
45
SONORA
15 10
1
Ojinaga
Hermosillo
CHIHUAHUA
Guerrero 18
Isla Negro 16 Chihuahua
Cedros 16
Cuidad Cuauht moc
Cuauhtémoc COAHUILA
Santa Obregón
Obreg
Rosalia Delicias
Mulegé
Muleg
BAJA Hidalgo Monclova
CALIFORNIA del Parral
SUR 49 30
Loreto 57
SINALOA 45
Los Torre
Torreón 40
Mochis DURANGO Saltillo
1
Culiacán
Culiac
La Paz 15 See Chapter 5
Sea of Cortés
Cort Durango
See Chapter 17 40 54
San José
Jos Fresnillo
Todos Santos del Cabo
Mazatl
Mazatlán
ZACATECAS
Cabo San Lucas Zacatecas San
15 Luis
Potos
Potosí
See Chapter 8 Tuxpan AGUASCALIENTES
San Blas Tepic
Aguascalientes
Islas
Marias NAYARIT Le
León
Guadalajara
Puerto Vallarta Guanajuato
For Guadalajara, GUANA-
See Chapter 7 JALISCO Lake Chapala JUATO
Morelia
Barra de Navidad Uruapan
Colima
Manzanillo tzcuaro
Pátzcuaro
COLIMA MICHOACAN
200 37

Lázaro
zaro
Cárdenas
rdenas
See Chapter 6 Zihuatanejo
& Ixtapa
PACIFIC
OCEAN

0 150 mi
N
0 150 km
Another Random Scribd Document
with Unrelated Content
naturally be evangelized from Ganton and Pah-hoi. Yunnan, will, of
course, be reached mainly through the city to be set apart for
foreign residence and trade on the Bur nese frontier, with the help of
foreign officials at Ta-li-fon. But possibly, part of its Eastern border
may obtain the gospel from the ports of Kioang-tung and the upper
Yang-tse, or even through Tong-hing. The gate of Mongolia is
Kalqan. On the frontiers of Thihd, the Moravians have long been
patiently labouring among the Himalaj-an snows. For 7\r,?va
something may be done through New-chumng ; but it is earnestly to
be desired that the way may be opened for direct access to that
kingdom. A Conference of Missionaries to the Chinese must also
note with deep sorrow, that no Protestant missions exist in Tong-
hing and A)i,-na')n, or what is commonly called Gocliin-china. For
the spoken language is really one of the so-called "diale ts" or Vei-
nacular forms of Chinese, and it is the Chinese character which is
used in books. That country also contains a vast number of Chinese
immigrants.
 2Iaj -llud. EssAir. 447 In the /);•///>•/),* A))ien'ca» and
Pufrh possossioiis, the chnvchoa of each nut ion sliouKi dilifjently
hihour among tlie iiinuint'iahk) Chini'se coK)Tiists. The same shouUl
also be done for those ever increasing multitudes in the riiilijipim-
Islands and the Mahnj states. It. is very remarkable that almost the
whole sin ecss of the missionaries in SiiDn has been among the
Chinese immigrants. AVith such an overwhelming work before us, let
us strain every never for labour, and let us suppress every seltish
feeling which could prevent our labour being used to the very best
advantage. Let no one covet the easy but injurious woik of building
on the foundations laid by others, especially where the field is
comparatively limited. Nor, on the other hand, let those who are
stationed in small numbers at points which give access to regions
wider and more populous than gi-eat European kingdoms, feel any
jealousy at the arrival of others to share their present toils and
future triumph. Let us, by a careful division of the laud, see that no
part be neglected. Let tis be "wise as serpents and harmless as
doves." And, so soon as the way is opened up and labourers
supplied, let post after post be occupied, by visits or by residence,
gradual)}' jnishing further from the base of operations till the utmost
limits shall have been reached. It might even be well in some cases,
that missions which have had little success should withdraw from
fields already occujiied, handing over their work to others stationed
at the same place, in order to have strength for breaking ground in
the vast unbroken solitudes of the wilderness. Such division of the
field has been found very suitable in India; e.g. the Church ^lission
in Tinnevelly, the London Mission in Travancore, and the Baptists in
iSurmah. So also with the missions of the American Board in the
Turkish Empire, the London Mission in Madagascar, and the several
missions in different parts of Polynesia. Why should we not do the
same in China ? Have we not all one Lord, one law, and one Gospel,
one way of salvation and one hope of eternal life ? There are indeed
some with whom we cannot cooperate. If any should come to us
who, professing adherence to the Protestant Church, yet preach the
doctrines and ape the rites of Rome, — or those who cloke a virtual
Socinianism under the phrases of orthodox belief, — or those who in
the guise of ultra-evangelism propagate the principles and practice
the anarchy of Antinomianism — with such we can have no
cooperation. It is another Gospel which they preach, the Gospel of
Ritualistic Superstition, or of Rationalistic Anti-supernaturalism, or of
Antinomian Anarchy, from such we must come out and be separate.
But apart from such errors as these, what are the points which
discriminate us from each other as compared with the awful depths
of moral and spiritual darkness in which the heathen lie ? Shall we
not all combine to spread far and wide the light of the knowledge of
God in the face of Jesus Christ ? And Heathenism is not our only
opponent. Not to speak of ^lohamraedanism, there is working side
by side with us, in public and in secret, the apostate Church of
Rome. With, her agents we cannot cooperate. Yet let us learn from
her organization. Rome, with all her boasted uniformity, does not
possess real unity. There are wide differences of opinion and feeling,
bitter jealousies and deep mutual antipathies within her pale. Yet in
her mission work she carefully avoids all occasion of scandal •
SiDgapore, Penang, Province Wellealay, Malacca, Auetralia, ic.
 448 EssAr. May 22 ud. and mutual hindrance. The usual
rule is that different nationalities, and different orders are sent to
different tieUlrs. Shall the ties of Christian love b3 le-;3 powerful
than the chairs of jwntiiieal despotism ? Shall not the might of
;J03'ful allegia-ice to our heavenly Master constrain us to more
hearty cooperation than what is produced by allegiance to the see of
Rome ? Yel after all we need not only far more thorough
cooperation, but also immensely greater effort on the part of all
Societies and Churches. Suppose that, through want of cooperation,
half our labour be wasted, and that a perfectly harmonious
organization would double our available strength, which I suppose is
much beyond the mark, yet after all what are these among so many
? Oh my fellow-labourers, let ns day by day lift up one earnest cry to
the Lord of the harvest that He would send forth laborers into His
harvest. And let ns constantly pre-;s upon all the Churches to bestir
themselves, to consider what has been done as almost nitliinj in
comparison with what they ought to do, with what theij will di, for
the evangelization of China. Let us ask earnestly and Tinceasingly for
the very best men who can be found. Let us be content with nothing
less. What we need, tfhat ChiJia ahiohitelij needs, is not viere
evangelists (though even for that work, no mean gifts and graces
are required), but men who, having been blessed as evangelists,
having gathered Christian congregations, shall be able to watch over
them wisely, and to train them thoroughly, as the foundation of the
future Christianity of China. Some, alas, seem to be losing hope of
getting duly qualiSed labourers, and are asking for under-educated
men to supply the urgent need. Let ns beware of this fatal error. Let
ns not encourage the Churches of Europe and America to serve the
Lnxl with that tchicU cods them nothing. Let us urge them to make
sacrifices, to send their best students, their most gifted scholars, to
this vast empire, this mightiest stronghold of Satan. Let us not lose
heart or give up hope, but importunately ask the sort of men we
need ; let us ply the Churches with arguments, pointing to the
inniimerable millions perishing in pagan darkness in China, and to
the floods of heathenism pouring in on the Pacific States of America
and the Colonies of Britain ; and all the while let us never cease to
ask them in faith from the Lord Himself, and according to our faith
theij shall he (jiven, to us. I know not whether there be any other
mission fields for which inferior agents will suit. If so, let them go
there: but let them not come here, to this Imperial nation, with its
ancient civilization and its vast literatui'e, to this people, the
shrewdest, most active, most intelligent, best educated, mo.st
powerful of all heathen nations, just now beginning to awaken from
the slumber of many centuries. Alas ! if the home Churches will
selfishly keep the best for themselves, and send to "-all nations''
those who would not be accepted at home, is not this "to despise
the offering of the Lord? " Shall they not find that " there is that
withholdeth more than is meet, and it tendeth to poverty." But if,
with self-denying love, they willingly give, not only their silver and
their gold, but what is incomparably more important, their best and
noblest sons for this service, then shall they find it true in a spiritual
sense (as well as in a temporal) that "there is that scattereth and yet
increaseth." For the Lord will accept the offci-ing, and opening the
windows of heaven will pour out the blessing, blessings at home and
blessings on China, blessings on Jew and Gentile through all the
World.
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accurate

Mav liiiml. DISCUSSION'. it'-^' P ISCUSSIOK. "RiT. J. S.

RoBKRTS, A. P. M., SuANGUAi, said :— It is a mistake to attempt in
God's kingdom to accomplish with one set of moans what can only
be accomplished by another set of means. This is frequently the
case with regard to prayer and work. Some men pray when tliey
onght to bo at work, while others work when they ought to pray.' "
VVhorefore criest thou unto me," said (iod to Moses on one
occasion, " Speak unto the children of Isiael that they go forwai'd."
Sound common sense is indispensable in a Missionary to the
Chinese, and ability also is required, to grapple with the ditticulties
of the language. No one can even understand and write this
language without brains. Faith, love and common sense are,
doubtless, the lirst qualitica.tions of a missionary, but brains are also
required, and that of the highest order, and nothing else can take
their place, or that of hard work. Thus, and thus only, can be broken
down that barrier of language that was set up at ]3abel' and the
^lissionary brought en rapport with the spiritual forces of the
Chinese, just as in the case of his own countrymen. Then will be
realised the immense pressure, the moral incubus which is laid upon
his shoulders, and which he is to move by the Spirit of the Lord.
Then will be inaugurated that contli-Jt which fs essential to the
aggressive nature of Christianity ; sanctified wills contending against
wills that are in bondage to sin and Satan. Rev. J. HunsoN T.wlok, C.
I. M., Chinkiaxg, said: — I lifve listened with great pleasure to the
remarks of Dr. "Williamson, and it may appear almost superfluous for
me to make any comment on the opinion that only labourers of the
highest mental culture and training are required as suitable for work
in this vast field. Not. only do my published writings show that I
dissent from this opinion: the existence and constitution of the China
Inland Mission are an expression of that dissent. But my very
appreciation of Dr. Douglas, who has so a bly presided over these
meetings, and of the great importance of the pa per which he has
just read makes me the more concerned that it should nob go forth
without qualification on this point. I am quite sure that the only
desire felt by Dr. Douglas — a desire I trust shared by eack on e of
ns — is, that the great work of China's evangelization should be
carried on in the best and most successful waj. But I feel well
assured that this would not be the ca.se if the laborers were
confined to an}- one class. I would speak with all deference; but I
came out here, as you all know, more than twenty-three years ago,
and have had some experience in this work. The great problem of
the evangelization of this whole empire has engaged my most
anxious attention for many years ; and more and more strongly do I
feel that if ever there was a field that needed all classes of suitable
and available laborers, China Is that field. I do not undervalue
labourers of high mental culture and of classical attainments. We
have needed them in the past, we still need them, and shall always
need them. I feel thankful that God has given so many: may He
increase their number ten fold, — nay a hundred fold, — would that
it could be a thousand fold ! But let us not confine ourselves to this
class ; let us thankfully a-cepfc ever}' real helper in our stapondous
undertaking, however humble ids attainments may be.
 4o0 Luscussiox. May 22ud. We do well to remembei' that
once there was a need to be met evoii greater than that of China,
vast as this is, and that 1800 years ago, one who well knew both the
need and the best way to meet it, chose as His apostles, men whose
social position and mental culture were very varied. Thei'e was once
a fisherman, Sir, a warm hearted and impetuous man, who
sometimes made serious mistakes, and who knew very little of the
culture of the Academy and the Hall, but who, when filled with the
Holy Ghost at Pentecost, preached such a sermon and with such
marvellous effects as would delight our hearts, could we but see the
like in our day. And it must not be forgotten that there are
departments of our work for which physical qualiiications are as
important as mental : in which power to endure hardship is
indispensable. Let us be careful to accept men only who are called of
God, and well fitted for some department of the work. Let us seek
men of sound common sense and of firm resolve, and of whole
hearted, self forgetful consecration; men filled with the Spirit of God
and endued with power from on high, and we shall not be
disappointed in them. There was one expression used in that papei',
Sir, which I hope will not be misunderstood. Let us be careful of the
expression " inferior agents." It was well dwelt upon the other day
that native agents need to be men called of God to the work. This is
no less true of missionaries. To such, however, as God deigns to call,
and use in His work ; to those who are so holy, humble and self
emptied that God can safely use them without injury to their own
souls, to such, I submit, the term "inferior" should never be applied,
however limited their educational attainments and training niay be.
Peter was not an inferior apostle to Paul. The work to which Paul
was called needed all his attainments and training : Peter's training,
though of a very different order, as well fitted him for his work. I
think. Sir, that the attention of those who have to select men for the
field should be carefully turned to cafacitu rather than to i^resent
attainment. Capable earnest men, absorbed in their work and
forgetful of self — men of purpose and of power — men tilled with
the Holy Ghost — will not make inferior agents, if put to the work for
which they are specially qualified. It is possible to lose time, rather
than to gain efficiency, by attempting too much in the way of
educating such men. If I am not too far trespassing on your time, 1
will conclude by giving one instance of this. Some twelve yeai's ago,
two young- men in Scotland entered into correspondence with me
on the subject of missions. Both desired to go to China and labour
for Christ. They were earnest, godly young men — had had a sound
English business education and were creditably filling their positions.
One of them eventually came up to London, and after a few months
of training was sent out to China ; the other commenced a more
extensive course of preparation and spent eight years in study. At
the end of eight years, the first — a man well known to many here,
Mr. Stevenson, formerly of Shao-hing, and now of Bhamo, — had
opened up a number of mission stations in the interior, had founded
four churches containing about 80 .members, had trained a number
of native helpers, and had had the joy of assisting in the ordination
of a native pastor, brought to Chi'ist and prepared for the ministry by
himself. Not only had he acquired accuracy and fluency in the
vernacular ; he was well read in the Chinese classics, and in every
respect was thoroughly up to his work. He then took his family home
for a change. The other young man was but finishing his training, a
training which however valuable, had, I believe, so impaired his
health as to render him unfit for foreign service. After a few months
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,M:iy i^Jiid. MsrnssTov. 451 ivst, Mr. Stevenson on tlio other

Land, took the lead in an expedition to Hurniah, Btudied liurniese for
12 or It hours a day, an amount of study ot" whicli few ordinary, not
to say inferior men, would be capable. Then ol)taininr»' the favour of
the King of liurmah lie com nienced missionary woik in Hhamo. He
next attacked a new, and unwritten language the Kahclien, the
hinguage of the border tribes between IJurmali and China. He
acHjuired that language, compiled an extensive and comprehensive
voeahulnry, and now preaches tlie Gospel to tliese hill tribes. Aided
by Mr. Soltau he has established friendly relations with every village
between liurnnvli and China; and, but for the absence of passports,
would ere this have entered C'hina from the west. In the meantime
the good work is going on ; two Yunnanese are professing faith in
Christ .lesus, and join our friends in thci4* prayer meetings in
Bhamo. I may wi'll leave these facts to speak for themselves. Rev. G.
John, L. jNI. S., Uankow, said : — It was not my intention to speak
on this subject; but Dr. Douglas' remarks on men render it necessary
that I should say a word or two. Vears ago, I used to think very
nearly as Dr. Douglas does now ; my views, however, have
undergone a material change. I am entirely at one with him in the
opinion that China needs the very best men our Colleges and
Universities can produce — meuoi cihicitida and the very hii/}icsf
education. My i'lexl missionary is a man endowed by nature with the
highest gifts, adorned by learning with the richest culture, filled with
the Holy Ghost and faith, and wholly devoted to the salvation of
men. Of such men we cannot have too many. There is not only
abundant room in China for men of culture, they are alisolntfh/
needed. There is a work to be done here whicli none but such men
can do. But there are not many of such men prepared to cast aside
home comforts and pro.spects, and devote themselves to the
Missionary work. The demand for men is great, hut the supply of
such men is small. There is room, however, in this immense Held for
men of a different ty-pe. Look, for example, at the evituiivlisfic work.
We want men at the present time, to travel over the length and bi-
eadtli of this land, whose work will consist in making known the
simplest truths of the Gospel in its numberless cities, towns, and
viihiges. The best agents for this work, it appears to me, are men
pos.se.s.sed of a strong physique, mental vigour, good, sound
common seusc, a fair English education, a thorough knowledge of
the Bible, and, above all, entire consecration to God. Such men
would do this sort of work quite as etliciently as the men of high
culture, perhaps more so. It has been my privilege to come into
close contact with not a few of the ^Uhsionaries of the Inland
Mission. Though by no means an unqualitied ap])rover of all the
modes of operation adopted by my friend Mr. Taylor, I cannot but
feel that he hfis been wonderfully guided of God in the choice of his
men. Some of them are well-educated, having received C'oUege or
University training; and by far the' majority of those among them
who have received only a fair English education, are men of real
character and great worth. Some of them speak the language with
as much convctness, fluency, and fulness as any Missionaries in
China. And, then, they seem to me to be wonderfully devoted to
their work. I have been struck with their simj)licity of aim, and
preparedness to endure hardships in order to accomplish their
mission. Uodly, con.secrated men most of them are, and 1, for one,
wish themi the heartiest God speed. I should
 452 DISCUSSION. May -I'lud. rejoice to see hundreds and
tliousands of such men come out to China to do a work for whicli
tliej appear to me to liave a peculiar fitness; and few things would
rejoice my heart more at this moment than to hear that there were
half a dozen or a dozen of such men on their way to join the^
London Mission at Hankow. There is a. vast region round about
Han^\ kow waiting to be evangelized ; and y J^n. longing to see a
number of men of this stamp sent out to do the work. 1 don't- say
this because I ■ deem such men unfit for the pastoral work. On the
contrary, man}- of those with whom I have come in contact appear
to be as fit for this branch of this Vv'ork, as the majority of
their~more highly educated brethren. Then something has been said
about inferior men. But what do we mean by an inferior man. A man
is not necessarily an inferior man because he has not had a college
training; whilst, a man may be a very inferior 7)iissionanj in spite of
the highest educational advantages. The man who spends his life in
making known Chrisi^ and Him crucified to this people, and shows
in actual work that he possesses the mental, moral and spiritual
qualifications necessary for the task is not an inferior man, though
he may never have sat at the feet of a Gamaliel, or imbibed the milk
of learning from an university. Let us pray the Lord of the harvest
that He may thrust many of such labourers into the great field ; and
when here, let us encourage them and honour them, and never
speak of them as offerings presented to the Lord of that which costs
the churches nothing. Rev. De. Williamson, S. U. P. M., Chefoo, said :
— I do not wish the remark of Dr. Douglas about under-educated
men being sent out as missionaries, to pass unchallenged. In China
as well as at home, the Gospel has to be preached to meii. of all
classes, and all degrees of education. In Christian countries a sphere
is found for Scripture readers, city missionaries and others, who
have not enjoyed the advantage of a high education ; and there is
ample room for such men to work in China also. Some of the most
prominent and well known amongst Protestant missionaries from the
beginning of missions in China, came out with very little previous
training. Dr. Morrison, Dr. Milne, Dr. Medhurst and Dr. Williams were
all of them men whose education had been of a comparatively slight
character ; yet they have rendered important service to the mission
cause in China, and have won themselves a name by their literaiy
labour. There are also several yet spared to us of our best men, who
have had comparatively no scientific or theological training. The
truth is that in China there is every degree of ability, — every kind of
idiosyncracy, — and all stages of education — the high and the low,
the rich and the poor. There is therefore a sphere for every kind of
talent. University men will be hailed with all our heart ; but there is a
call for another class of men — men of good sound sense, of force
of character and good English edacation ; and who have been
engaged successfully in evangelical work at home. The poor and the
humble constitute the masses of the people ; and among these such
workers will find abundance of scope and much encouragement.
N^ot a few senior missionaries are feeling the need of such men
more and more, and are convinced that with six or eight men of this
description under their direction, they could work the Province in
which their lot is cast with far more satisfaction and with great
results. The seed has been sown widely for many years, these men
by living among the people and going and returning to headquarters
would gather up the fruits of previous toil. After a period
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ilaj -2'Md. i:t;sAY. 403 of this kind of pi-Ai-tic;il tniinintc thov

could bo advanced to the full oflice of tlie Christian ministry. 1 (iiiidc
thcrcfuie that \vc ought not to allow tho view presented hy Dr.
Douglas on this subject t^J go home as if it represented the general
sentiment of this Conference. The fear was such men would soon
become discouraged. l>ut why should they 'r' In all depart nu'uts,
active, laborious .service precedes positions of high responsibility. I
havi; more faith in our young men at home; and 1 feel sure there
arc many who would hail this work with delight if it were oidy fairly
put before theiu. M.ORNING Session. ESSAY. The Training of a
Native Agency. BY Rkv. W. U. McGregor, E. P. M., Amot. That China
must be evangelised hy Chinese is a truism. The Churches of the
West cannot send men iu numbers sutficient to overtake the wants
of a country so vast ; aud even if they could do so, and plant a
mi.ssionary in every village, the object aimed at would not be
attained. Missionaries from abroad will always labour under the
disadvantage of being foreigners. Not only are they unable fully to
enter into sympathy with the people, but the people refuse to accept
them into their s^-mpath}'. Attempts to conform to Chinese
customs, in dress or othervvi.se, utterly fail to overcome Chinese
contempt for anything alien ; and, that Christianity may become
really a power in China, it must become indigenous. The faith that is
in Christ Jesus must be associated in the minds of the people, not
with despised and suspected foreigners, but with bonii fide living
Chinamen, who themselves have felt its power, and are able to
speak to their fellow countrymen of what they themselves have felt
and known. It is only when Christianity thus takes root in the soil of
China that it can grow up into a tree that shall till the land. The full
recognition of this fact must materially affect our methods of
carrying ou mission work. It will c.aii.se us to keep in mind that the
goal we aim at reaching, is not a series of congregations more or
less numerous, preached to by foreign Missionaries, but a imtive
self-projuu/dtimj church which, quickened by the Divine Spirit, shall
itself do the Masters work. }iy what means then, may we now
approximate most nearly to this consummation and secure a good
prospect of its attainment in tiie future ? 1st. Are the converts
gathered by the personal exertions of the missionaries to be left to
make what provision they will, or can, for the spread of the Gospel,
or are we to regard the providing and employing of a native agency
as an important part of our work ? In some quarters there seems to
be a tendency to hold that when a certain number of missionaries
are sent out and supported, the duty of the churches of Christendom
to China is thereby dischaiged : and objections, more plausible than
conclusive, are sometimes made to the supfM-rt by missions of a
native agency on any extensive scale. — " The Apostles
 4r>4 ESSAT. ]\fay 23vcl. did not employ a native agency."
True : but the Apostles were themselves natives of the Empire in
which they laboured. Nor had they any choice. There was then
nowhere a large Christian Church possessed of culture, influence and
wealth, capable of supporting such an agency. But are we to
suppose that the Christian peoples of the Christian lands of the
present day have no duties resting on tliem beyond those which
could be discharged by the Christian Church in its infancy ? No doubt
God means the Church's duty to be measured by the opportunities
presented to her and the ability she has to utilise them. If a native
agency is the one most suitable for China, and we possess the ability
to train and employ such an agency, we cannot get rid of our
responsibility by any reference to the action of those whose
circumstances were totally different. Another difficulty felt by some
is that the support by missions of a staff of native agents, leads
Heathen and Christian alike, to regard the preaching of the Gospel
merely as a means of making a living. To listen to this objection
however would carry us too far, for it is of equal force as dii'ected
against the payment of preachers of the Gospel from any source.
There always have been those in every land who have believed that
those who lived of the Gospel, preached it merely that they might
live by it. As for the Heathen, they are unable to conceive of any
other reason than personal protit, that could induce eiiher a foreign
missionary or a native agent to preach the Gospel. Suppose all the
native preachers supported themselves, they would still believe them
to be paid. Sach views within the church have their soui'ce in
defective knowledge and a low spirituality in the membership. They
will not be got rid of by ceasing to employ a native agency, but hf
getting the tone of spirituality in the church raised, and by training
the members to give of their substance for the support of the
Gospel. Objections may be urged against this, as against every kind
of mission work, but the facts remain that it is only through a native
agency that our work can take firm root in China ; that the native
Church is as yet unable to train or support such an agency, except to
a very limited extent ; and that God has put it in our power to do
something to provide one. If we fail to avail ourselves of this
opportunity — shall we not be guilty of neglecting a door which the
Lord has opened ? 2nd. But among those who are agreed that a
native agency is not only an iuiportant but an essential factor in the
operations of an effective mission, differences of opinion and
practice exist regarding the nature and amount of the training those
employed ought to receive. Ought they to pass through a sj-stematic
course of training, or ought they to be simply such of the converts
as shew themselves most suitable, sent forth with only such training
as they may casually have received. Some men of this latter kind,
when thoroughly in earnest and possessed of true spirituality, prove
evangelists whose value cannot be overestimated. Much care
however has to be exercised in selecting them. We must strive in
every way to make our Church members carry with them the
conviction that it is the duty of all who know Christ to preach Christ.
Too great readiness to take into the pay of the mission those who
seem possessed of some gift for teaching others, is apt to foster the
idea that the natural reward of efforts to preach the Gospel is
mission employment. When a man whose occupation in life is
already fixed, is taken from it to the work of preaching the Gospel,
his qualifications ought to be such as to commend themselves to the
consciences of the membership generally, and be recognised as a
sufficient reason for his being set apart, to give himself wholly to the
ministry of the word. The
 May SAvA. V.SSKX. 455 mimher of sucli men in the Church
will for some time be nccessai-ily small, and it" we are to secure a
really eillcicut native ayeucy we must train one. In selecting men to
pass thruiiL;li a course of systematic IraininiLr surely a sine qua n»n
ought to be that they have already given evidence of true conversion
to (iod. It docs not fall to me to c^onsider what may be done, by
means of schools, towards educating boys in the hope that they may
become Christian men and useful in the Church; but J hold very
strongly that before any one is put to study with the avowed
purpose of preparing to preach Christ, there ought to bo reason for
believing tiiat he liiinsclf knows Christ. In connection witli our Amoy
missions we have men who have bcjn specially trained and men who
have not. In both classes we have had earnest labourers in tbe
Master's vineyard, and in both classes we have had men who
disapj)ointed us. But the conviction produced on my own mind has
been, that if we are to liave a living, growing Church, we must train
men to be the instruments in building it up. One obvious advantage
in the employment of men who have been trained under the
jnissionary's eye is, that he knows them better. I believe the chief
reason why some have doubts regarding the extensive employment
of a native agency is, that they have learned the evil consequences
of employing unsuitable men. A man who has but little sj)iritual life,
or even one whose profession of Christianity is altogether unreal
may, by a pretence of zeal, impose upon a missionary and secure
employment as a paid agent. His coldness and formalism soon
communicates itself to tlioso to whom he ministers, or worse still, his
example is such as to injure the Church and give the heathen
occasion to blaspheme that holy name by which he is named. If
such a man induce any to profess Christianity they will generally be
found to be guided by interested motives, their presence is a source
of weakness to the Church instead of strength, and they soon fall
away. If men of this stamp find their way into a training class where
they are daily brought into contact with the missionary, he will
scarcely fail to detect them, and if he unhesitatingly weed out the
inefhcient and the worthles.s, there is much less probability of
unsuitable men actually getting into the work of the mi.ssion. But a
course of training not only affords an opportunity for distinguishing
between the true and the false. It enables the preacher to go forth
with a fuller Jciuurled
 450 ESSAY, May 23rd. pose themselves to sleep. Tliey have
been acctistomed, week after week, to an uncoimected series of
remarks, of the goody-goody sort, containing no fresh expositions of
Divine truth nor anything calculated to arrest the attention. A drowsy
spirit possesses them and they neither grow in grace themselves nor
coraniunicate spiritual life to others. Trained men, on the other hand,
have a greater fullness of Scripture knowledge, and greater aptitude
in conveying it to others. Their training has taught them to dudij the
Bible, to examine the precise meaning of passages, to compare
Scripture with Scripture and to aim at really iuxtructimj and
quickening those entrusted to their care. They read, the Scriptures
with them more, and thus noui'ished by the pure milk of the word
the Church grows in knowledge, grows in sanctification and becomes
a power in the land. But it is not merely in knowledge and aptitude
to teach that the superiority of the trained evangelist consists. If of
the right stamp, he will be found in many respects to occupy a
higher moral platform. The moral faculty is in the Chinese sadly
warped. "Deportment" is the Confucian anniinum b:)iiii»i, and
deportment and formalism are in China, held in much higher repute
than truth and straightforwardness. When a man is born of the Spirit
his formalism gets a rude shake ; but, although the conscience is
awakened, it is not all at once enlightened. Probably most of us have
had unpleasant experience of this in the case of some, regarding
whom we could not doubt that thoy were the children of God.
Chinese crookedness and Chinese conceit sometimes crop out
unexpectedly in the conduct of very estimable men. A course of
training does much to correct this. It is not merely that the
conscience is enlightened by a fuller study of the work of Grod. Tlie
personal influence exercised upon them is perhaps of still more
consequence. When the superiority of a teacher in his own
department has been felt, we all know what power he has over the
minds of his students, and how his opinions on every subject
influence them. It has even been said that educated foreigners have
in studying the Chinese language learned to look at other things
than language through Chinese spectacles. When therefore a young
man is bi'ought into a training class, along with some others of the
best young men connected with the mission ; when from day to day
he occupies the position of a learner and is made to feel the
missionary's mental power and superiority in knowledge ; when he
finds his teachei-s unconsciously looking at everything from a
Christian point of view, insisting on reality and despising mere
appearance, his views of things are insensibly assimilated to those of
his teachers. The Christian faith becomes to him more a practical
reality inwrought into his life, and be is able to go forth with a firmer
step to fight with the heathenism and sin around him. Ill speaking
thus I am not merely theorising. My experience has been that the
best of our trained preachers, are more reliable than the best of our
untrained ones. They may not be more earnest, they may not be
more suitable for some kinds of work, but their Christian character is
better developed. They have acquired new ideas and formed habits
of independent thought. The trammels of Chinese usage and the
bondage of Chinese tradition have been more decisively cast off.
Their conscience has been enlightened and their spiritual life
fostered. Altogether they are better qualified to be, both by example
and precept instruments in training the native church to a fuller
knowledge of Gospel truth and a higher standard of Christian
practice.
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■Slay J.'.iii. tSSAt. 4o7 3. As rop^ards snbjt'cts of stndv. T

assume that the stiulents -vvheji Selected are already fair Chinese
scholars. Tlif-ro ouj^ht liowever to be j)i-ovisioii for traininuf tl'.jm
more fully in native scholarship, so that ihey may not be ashamed to
stand face to face with the so-ca!'
 458 DISCUSSION. May 23rd. man a post pecuniarily
valuable, but it does not raise liira in the estimation of tlie people
generally and adds no weight to the message, which as a preacher
of the Gospel he brings them. The day may come when it will do so.
It is hard to forecast the future of China. Changes, the most
unlooked for, may any day take place. It would, therefore be folly to
regard as a finality a system of training which noic seems best. We
must watcli the current of events, and be prepared to modify our
systems of training so as to hai'monise with changing circumstances.
Meantime I believe our wisdom is not to be too ambitious. To aim
indeed, at giving our preachers as much as we can of such culture
as may fit them for their field of labour; bat above all, to strive and
pray that they may possess the true spirit of their work. In addition
to the provision made for linguistic training and the work done by
the missionaries, we have in Araoy, found the services of a resident
tutor of the highest value. One of the best of our trained men, living
with the students, takes a general oversight of their studies and
systematically reads with them the Scriptures. The amount of direct
instruction they thus receive from him is very great, but of still
greater importance is the spirit he is able to foster among them. This
is of all thing-s the chief. Unless the Spirit of Christ dwell in our
students all our teaching will be but beating the air. Amid all our
teaching, what we have to keep before our minds as the object in
view is, that our pupils become true ministers of Christ. That they be
this it is necessary that they themselves be truly consecrated to the
service of the Lord, and that they realise that when they have
studied their hardest and preached and laboured their hardest, it is
only when they carry all to the Master to receive the Master's
blessing that it can become food to feed the thousands that are
perishing around. Discussion, Rev. S. L. Baldw^, A. M. E. M.,
Foochow, said : — The candidates for the ministry are obliged by the
rules of the Methodist Mission at Foochow to be recommended by
the Circuit to which they belong, and also by the District Conference,
before they can be received into the training school. The questions
generally considered in the case of each candidate are ? Istly, Has
he gifts ? 2ndly, Has he grace ? 3rdly, Has he usefulness ? i.e. Has
he been engaged in any Cliristiau work previous to his applying to be
admitted to the training school. When the recommendations are
satisfactory the name of the candidate is submitted to the
missionary ; and in the ordinary way, he is admitted to the school.
After he has entered, his name is brought up periodically and the
question is discussed whether he shall be kept in the school or not,
and whether he shall be sent out to preach or not. Some preachers
have not been in the school and they are required to go on with
their work. Four times a year all the preachers are examined viva
voce and are required to write a sermon. Students who have been
recommended to the training school and admitted, receive an
allowance of about §2.25 per month. During the summer months
they are sent out to preach and a good work has been done by them
in this way. The age at which students are admitted to the institution
is usually between 16 and 20 ; their course extends over three years
; they are mostly drawn from the class of tradesmen and farmers.
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May. 'Jiird. DISCUSSION. 469 Rkv. C. R. Mills, A. P. M.,

TcNOcnow, said : — No mention lias yet been made of instmcfion in
Church History. In Sliantiing we con.-^idiM" (his a study of great
importance. One of our brutliren in Chefoo has prepared a manual of
Church History, by means of which he instructed a class. I attended
an examination of this clai5S, and was surprised to find them so well
up in Church History. They answered many questions that 1 could
not have answered m^-self. Nor has any thing been said about
practical instruction in the composition and delivery of sermons. In
our theological class we give careful attention to this matter. Wo give
out texts, and require sermons to be delivered by each member of
the class, in our presence for criticism. Some attention should be
given to reading aloud ; an art in which the Chinese are not apt to
excel. Nor has instruction in Vocal Music been referred to. We aim to
give onr classes pretty full, and accurate instruction in music. Some
of the ladies have done good service in this way. The late Mr. Capp
gave one term of very careful instruction in music to our theological
class. One of his students, a plain man of slow parts, failing to go on
to the ministry is extremely useful as an unpaid local preacher in the
Church atLaichow where his home is, and of which he is an elder.
This man reads music readily, and accurately. He has instructed
several of the members of his church so that they can do the same.
The}' find the practice of music and the singing of Hymns a great aid
to the worthy observance of the Sabbath. The young men of the
village find the practice of tunes in the Chapel in the evenings a
pleasant way of passing the time. I wish to refer to one other
matter. I mean the giving somewhat regular instruction in classes for
the more advanced Christiana, especially those from the more
distant regions where the foreign ^lissionary can only pay an
occasional visit. In Chefoo and Tungchow we have such classes. We
select a time when our people, who are nearly all farmers, are at
leisure, commonly after the crops have been gathered in at the close
of the year. Ordinarily twenty or thereabouts come at such times and
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