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 On the Verge of a Fight. 53 several guns, loads were
thrown down, the Wa-teita fled screaming, and in the twinkling of an
eye we found ourselves on the verge of a fight. Fortxmately nobody
was hurt., and I soon put matters right, though perhaps after all it
would have been not a bad thing if one of the thieves had been
killed, as they have become notorious for their plundering
propensities. The Wa-teita, however, having been aroused by our
shooting, and the war-cry having brought several hundreds X-TSITA
OIKL. from the hills, we had to move with every precaution,
expecting every moment the whiz of an arrow or a rush upon some
more or less unprotected part. We, however, looked too bloodthirsty,
and were too well armed, so we reached the camp of Mikome-ni
safely. This place appears in the map- as the name of a district, but
that is a mistake, as it is only a Swahili name for a camp, meaning,
in -fact, the place of the mikomen-trees. A slave
 54 Through Masai Land. caravan from Chaga, hearing of
our approach, fled in terror into the jungle, to avoid meeting us. "We
were to have started at 2 a.m. next morning, to make a forced
march over the waterless area in front, but during the night the Wa-
teita gathered about in such numbers, and made so many attempts
to steal, that we gave up all intentions of going on. Clearly they
meant mischief, and would to a certainty attack us, or in some
manner cause a stampede the moment we got on the road. During
the march on the following day, I shot two hartebeests, a giraffe,
and a zebra. I felt somewhat proud of my achievement, and my men
were exceedingly happy, as they gorged themselves with meat over
the camp-fires after a very hard march. We resumed our tramp at 3
a.m., and pressed on through the chilly morning air. We were
startled every now and again by herds of zebras dashing across our
path, and raising their curious half -whistle, half-bark, and not
infrequently' in the dim light we were awe-struck by the re-echoed
roars of lions "saying grace " after meat. The day soon dawned, and
through a terrific heat, we plodded on, determined to reach Taveta
that day. It was not, however, till 6 p.m. that the main body of the
caravan bade adieu to the horrid wastes and burning heats of the
Nyika, and found grateful shelter and cool water in the shady depths
of one of the most charming forest tracts in the whole of East Africa.
CHAPTER III. A FORTNIGHT IN A FOREST FASTNESS. It is
impossible to describe the delicious feelings of relief which we
experienced on suddenly exchanging the burning heat and the
barren wastes of the Nyika for the leafy labyrinths and bosky bowers
of the little African Arcadia of Taveta on that eventful evening of the
3 1st of March. It was as if we had passed from a purgatory to a
paradise, and our recent ordeal had prepared us to appreciate our
happiness to the utmost. We made our way through an outer barrier
of dense, impenetrable forest and undergrowth of bush, by a narrow
winding tunnel, squeezed ourselves through the small gateway, and
stood within the charmed circle. Here wo
 An African Akcadu. 55 first gave voice to our guns, the
reports of which echoed and re-echoed through the forest, and told
the natives in wellunderstood language that a weary caravan had
entered their precincts, and claimed their hospitality. As we moved
on through rich banana groves, we presently heard the answering
bang of guns which roared out hearty welcomes, and soon the very
trees seem to thunder forth their salaams, as from all sides was kept
up a continuous firing. We found ourselves in the midst of a very
network of purling rills and artificial channels, and we slaked our
thirst in the clear, cool water X bit's QlTi.BTSRS, TAVBTA. with
intense enjoyment Then natives b^an to 'appear, confirming their
more fiery welcome with pleasant " Yambo, Yambos." They were
followed by more excited and demonstrative Wa-swahili traders,
who, as they seized and kissed n^y hand with their salutation of "
Sabalkheir," opened a running fire of questions, amazed at the
totally unexpected appearance of a white man's caravan, of which
they had heard no news. Thus convoyed amid the renewed
thundering of guns, which in the leafy depths of the forest sounded
like cannon, we threaded marvellously rich planta 
 56 Through Masai Land. tions, and finally emerged at a
clearing which we found to be the headquarters of the Wa-swahili
traders, over which presided one Dugumbi, a noted " nikuginzi," and
" mganga." A number of houses like those familiar at the coast had
been built here, and as it had now become dark, we, amidst much
confusion, camped for the night. The men, deadbeat by their killing
march, were only too glad to throw down their loads anyhow, and,
regardless of empty stomachs, stow themselves away out of sight.
However, by dint of much yelling and shouting, we got the tents put
up provisionally. In these the goods were stowed safely away, and
before we finally turned in for the night sufficient food was got
together to stay the cravings of hunger. Next day was devoted to
rest. To get clear of the noise and clamour, and the many unlovely
sights and smells of the general camp, I removed my tent some
distance off, and embowered myself in a charming nook of the
forest, leaving Martin to superintend the men. I now found I had a
work of no small mag-nitude before me, which I had not anticipated.
The whole of my beads had to be restrung into the regulation
lengths of the Masai country. Unless in this form, they would not be
accepted, and there would be absolutely no opportunity for doing
them on the march. Before I could leave Taveta, therefore, 60,000
strings had to be made up. But this was not all. Cloth was accepted
by the Masai only in the shape of ready-made war-dresses, known
as naibere. These consisted of about six feet of cotton, down the
centre of which a strip of crimson or checked cloth is sewn, the cross
threads of the ends being taken_out to form a fringe. Of these
naiberes 300 had to be prepared. Besides all this, a variety of other
prelmiinary arrangements had to be made. It thus became very
clear, much to my annoyance, that a detention of some length was
before me. After settling the question of tribute or hongo with the
elders and the young men, and making my complimentary presents
to Dugumbi and the headman of a caravan which had just reached
Taveta from the Masai country after losing 100 men by disease, I set
myself seriously on the second day to tlie pressing work of
preparation. Those who were expert with the needle were started on
the war-dresses, and the rest set to string beads. Some were sent to
bring the leaves of the Mwale palm (Raphia). Others from the fibre
prepared strings, and the remainder did the stringing. To have some
 Peculation and its Punishment. 57 check upon the men, the
beads were measured out to each one, and all the headmen
employed as detectives to minimize as far as possible the stealing.
Fearful penalties were threatened to backsliders, and rewards
promised to the honest and the diligent, and then, after emphasizing
both with the properscowl for prosi>ective thieves and encouraging
smiles for the better class, I set them to work. In the evening, when
the work was finished and brought back for examination, I was
thrown into the depths of despair. I had had some faint hopes that
their moral regeneration had advanced a step since they left the
coast I was doomed to bitter disappointment. Kot a man brought
back the amount he received. Out of about four loads distributed,
nearly an entire load was wanting. WTiat was I to do under the
circumstances 1 I could not thrash the entire caravan, and yet
something must be done if I hoped to check the stealing. In the end
I selected two men from each khambi (mess), and made Brahim
give each one several sovmd strokes with a stick. Their rations also
were stopped for the day. After a disgusting rumpus all round, the
day's work ended with loud-voiced protestations of innocence from
the men, and threats of desertion. Though externally calm and
smiling, I was boiling with rage and mortification. I was determined,
moreover, that on no account would I give in, as it would never do
to have it an open question as to whether or not my authority was
to be respected. That same evening I took possession of the men's
guns, and placed a strong guard, with the usual bloodthirsty orders.
With much ostentation, I loaded my heavy express rifle, and, in the
hearing of some of the men, arranged with Martin to divide the night
in keeping a look-out. Next tlay matters were very much improved,
and I saw that I had become master of the situation, though I may
mention that out of about thirty loads of beads, two were stolen in
the process of stringing, in spite of every precaution. Life at Taveta,
however, was not all worrj- and toil. Indeed, it was in many respects
quite the reverse. Agreeable strolls in the cool of the evening were
pleasingly varied by native levees, and by seances, in which, in the
character of the " Wizard of the Xorth," I aroused profound
admiration by my galvanic battery, evoking cries of consternation, or
producing fits of laughter, according as the people were being
operated on, or only spectators of the tortures of others. As
 58 Through Masai Land. for food, fish, fowl, eggs, mutton
or goat, tomatoes, sweet potatoes, yams, manioc or cassava, green
maize, sugar-cane, golden bananas, and vegetables of various kinds
supplied our table with an agreeable diversity and a rich profusion
such as I have nowhere else experienced in Africa. Our life here
might have been described as perfection — for Africa — but for the
troubles with the men, which certainly were a considerable alloy to
our pleasure. Having thus become well acquainted with our
surroundings, and got the work of preparation fairly set a-going,
with some idea of discipline and a higher moral tone persuasively
instilled into the men, we may relax the fixed scowl with which we
have made the delinquents quail, and, putting on our holiday look,
proceed on a circular tour of investigation in the forest and suburbs
of Taveta. Let me invite my readers as a select party to accompany
me. It is an April morning, and we are up with the dawn. Before the
sun has passed the horizon we have demolished our breakfast with a
capital appetite. Our guns are taken in hand ; all the necessary array
of knives, belts, bags, &c., buckled or slung about our persons, and
with the due following of " boys," we are oif on our expedition. We
pass through the camp, and see that the men have commenced
work, and after giving the manager directions for the day, Ave leave
behind us the filth and ugliness of the Swahili village, and plunge
into one of those ideal, leafy labyrinths with which the popular
imagination inclines to clothe equatorial regions, but which the toil-
worn African traveller so seldom sees. As we hie merrily along the
bower-like pathway we are soon lost in admiration of the glorious
masses of vegetation which everywhere meet our eye. Nature
Avantons in the production of magnificent trees, Avhich in many
instances spring up branchless eighty to one hundred feet before
spreading out in a splendid umbrageous canopy. The branches
interlace Avith those of the surrounding trees till only a faint
checkered light passes through to dance and quiver below in the
manner of innumerable Avill-o'-the-wisps. Though the trees are
uubranched to those heights, yet you Avill perceive that Ave are not
Avandering in a forest of stems only, like the masts in some
croAvded harbour. Far otherwise ; from every point of vantage pliant
creepers, loaded with foliage, SAving from tree to tree or hang in
graceful dark green masses down the sturdy trunk. Beautiful j)alms,
— the
 The Tavetan Forest. 59 raphia, and the hyphene, or wild
date — flowering shrubs, a profusion of ferns, and here and there a
flowering plant, fill up the interspaces till the eye becomes
bewildered by the crowding and the rank profusion. Monkeys give
animation to the scene, and by their lively movements and incessant
barking attract attention. Flocks of hombills fly from tree to tree,
jarring the ear ■with, their unmusical calls. Squirrels, now hiding
behind a tree-trunk or climbing with wonderful celerity, anon pausing
with wondering gaze, according as alarm or curiosity has the
ascendency, are noted among other sights. Numerous foot-prints tell
of the hyaena hidden away in the dense bush till the shades of night
allow it to commence its ghoul-like rounds. From the forest we hear
the pleasing ripple of water over a stony bed, and pushing forward,
we emerge at last, to find ourselves on the banks of the snow- fed
Lumi, which rising at the base of the Kimawenzipeak of Kilimanjaro,
after a subterranean passage from the shattered cloud-sucking
pinnacle, finds its way south to Lake Jipe, and, spreading under
ground, nourishes the glorious Tavetan forest and ensures fertility
throughout the year. Its banks, bedecked with maiden-hair ferns and
creef)ers, and its noble arboreal arch invite us to pause and refresh
ourselves. Ita gentle murmuring finds an echo in our souls, and
under ita soothing charm we become lotus-eaters, and rise above
this prosaic world of ours to visit in our imagination some restful,
idyllic dreamland, and sip the essence of the golden year. Tempted
by the delicious coolness and the crystalline purity of its waters, we
resolve to try its liquid depths and are soon revelling in a glorious
bath. Resuming our perambulations, we find fresh and ever-varied
scenes to attract our attention. Here a zigzag pathway leads us to a
native compound hidden in extraordinary masses of verdure,
perfectly impenetrable except by a very narrow pathway, and a still
more narrow, strongly built gateway. Behind this the natives can bid
defiance to the Masai, who have on one or two occasions contrived
to penetrate inside the forest, though few have ever got out alive
again to teU the tale. We find the compound to consist of two or
three huts of bee-hive shape, and thatched with banana leaves. As
we peep inside our nostrils are suddenly assailed by a powerful
odour. Pushing in, we find the cause of it to be two cows stalled
within. They are beautiful fat animals, and are never allowed
outside, their food being cut and brought to them. Behind the cows
 60 Throdgh Masai Land. are a few poles over which is
stretched a dressed bullock'shide. This forms the bed of the lady of
the house and of her lord, when he takes a fancy to sleep there —
for he, having several other huts and wives, each with her own
cows, has no fixed residence, though he naturally pays more
attention to some favourite wife. There is little inside worth
description beyond the customary collection of cooking utensils,
water and beer pots, calabashes for milk, small, hollowed-out
cylinders of wood for honey, and baskets for the various kinds of
grain. In odd nooks, beads, cloth, &c., are stowed away. The cooking
is performed outside, where also may be observed a number of
gambolling kids and goats, mixed with the more sedate sheep.
Cocks establish themselves on the housetops, while the less
venturesome hen clucks with her chirping brood on lower levels.
After some pleasant chat with the inhabitants, we bow ourselves out
to continue our exploration. Scarcely have we resumed our walk
when our attention is attracted to a strange object. Pushing forward,
we find an illustration of a curious burial custom of the natives of
Taveta. After death the body is buried in a sitting posture, the left
arm resting on the knee and the head supported by the hand, the
contrary arm and hand being used by the women. When they have
remained sufficiently long to be reduced to skeletons, the skulls of
the man and his chief wife are taken out, and placed in deep, oval-
shaped pots. These are laid on their sides at the base of dracoena-
trees in the centre of his plantation, where, in the shape of good
spirits, they keep watch and ward over the welfare of the crops. A
more queer and ghastly thing cannot be imagined than the sight of
these skulls grinning inside the dark pots. AVhy dracoena-trees
should be selected I do not know, except that they take root easily
and grow quickly, besides always remaining green, and not taking up
too much room or growing too large. From this strange sight our
attention is now diverted by the sounds of tinkling bells, and a
jingling sound as of loose iron bangles striking against each other.
Looking around to see the cause, we observe an elderly female with
an austere and severe aspect slowly emerging from the banana
grove, with measured tread, and carrying a wand fitted to inspire
respect in the bosoms of mischievous urchins. Behind this ancient
dame (in whom the striking absence of charms is not compensated
by a profusion of cither clothes or ornaments)
 An Ixtekesting Announcement. 61 marches, with ambling
step, a plump female, tender and twenty. Bound her head is a band
of leather, ornamented with cowrie shells. From this hangs a perfect
veil of iron chain, which almost completely hides the face, and falls
over the bosom. Round her neck and waist are disposed heaps of
beads and iron chains, almost rivalling the Teita ladies in amount. A
dressed skin forms her clothing, while arms and legs are loaded
w^th iron and brass wire of the thickness of telegraph wire. About
her person are disposed a number of bells, and round the ankles are
numerous iron bangles, which herald her approach for some
distance ahead. We greet with due resj^ect the grim duenna, smile
more knowingly at her charge, and let them pass, slowly picking
each step .is if they were among thorns. You ask " What is the
meaning of this display f " " Has Spain transferred its system of
female espionage to Africa ? " By no means. The secret of the
mystery is simply this. The young lady has been lately married, and
is now in — I blush to mention it — an interesting condition. Proudly
she struts forth in all the pride proper to such a situation —
delighted doubtless to announce to the world at Lirge, or at least to
some hated rival, by the music of the bells, her pleasing
expectations. She is at this period fattened and pampered like a fowl
for the market. She is not allowed to exert herself in the least, and if
she must go out to receive the congratulations of her friends, she
must be accompanied by a stiiid chaperon, who, marching in front,
watches over her welfare, and prevents her being startled or
otherwise inconvenienced. On these occa.sions she is always loaded
with all the ornaments that can be got, more especially the iron veil
and the bells, which are the distinctive marks. The appearance of a
second child is not heralded in the same manner ; little notice,
indeed, is taken of the event. I may here mention that marriage
among the Wa-taveta is a matter of so many bullocks. When a
young man takes a fancy to a girl he arranges the matter with the
father, and agrees to give so many head of cattle. If he is able to
give the requisite number at once, then the marriage is
consummated without delay. This, however, seldom happens. On the
actual presentation of the first bullock, the girl is henceforth " sealed
" to him. She is not allowed to go outside the house till after dark,
and may on no account see a man, not even her betrothed. If the
man is poor, the engagement frequently extends over a term of
years, till the last bullock is paid up. After marriage the most
astounding
 62 Through Masai Land. laxity prevails. Conjugal fidelity is
unknown, and certainly not expected on either side ; they might
almost be described as a colony of free lovers. Continuing our walk,
we hurry on through charming glades, and rich plantations irrigated
by artificial canals, and as we look around on the more open
prospect, we cannot but conclude that though it may be ridiculous
excess for man to paint the lily, yet he may assist nature in letting
the lily be seen to advantage — and so indirectly improve its beauty.
Here we see single trees rising in stately grandeur, and showing ofi"
their fine proportions ; there, a pleasing group set on green soft
grass, offers grateful shade without discomfort. Eich crops of golden
maize or grey millet wave to the passing breeze, while great
bunches of splendid bananas bend down the soft and cellular stems.
The whole place seems to be kaleidoscopic in its infinite variety of
changing scene, in its wonderful combination of the grand and the
graceful, of form and colour. It wants but a few more brilliant hues,
a greater abundance of flitting, iridescent butterflies and dragon-
flies, some more gorgeously coloured birds, and a few monstrosities
in beetles to make the picture ideally perfect. But now, lest these
scenes get too great a hold upon my imagination, and lay me open
to a charge of eastern extravagance of thought, or of " exuberant
verbosity " allied to the rank profusion we have just left, let me ask
my readers to gather round me under the shade of the palaver-tree
of the natives, while I try to convey some further general ideas
about Taveta and its inhabitants. Lend your imagination as well as
your ears, while I ask you to climb up to some neighbouring peak or
point of vantage, to take in a bird's-eye view of your surroundings.
You perceive that Taveta — the invulnerable and impenetrable — is a
slight depression near the south-east comer of the great snow-clad
mountain of Kilimanjaro, and lying, as our barometric observations
show, at a height of 2400 feet. This depression is covered with the
dense forest which we have just described, and covers no greater an
area than a mile broad, and seven miles long from north to south. It
may, however, be better described as delta-shaped— the apex being
towards the north, and the base subtended by Lake Jipe. The line of
demarcation between the most remarkable tropical luxuriance and
utter barrenness and sterility, is one of astonishing abruptness.
There is no gradual alteration,
 Physical Chabacteristics of Taveta. 63 but with a couple of
steps you change the entire scene. This is not difficult to explain.
The forest covers an almost level strip of rich, alluvial soil, brought
down from the mountain by the perennial Lumi, which runs through
the centre to the lake on the south, and probably has thus silted up
a former creek-like extension. The Lumi, however, is not entirely
confined to the limits of its banks. On the contrary, it spreads away
underground by many subterranean channels, and thus ever keeps
the ground moist — so much so that at almost any point water can
be reached at from one to two feet in depth ; hence the remarkable
fertility. Where the ground begins to rise the water, of course, does
not come near the surface, and, as but little rain falls throughout the
year, only plants which thrive in the most arid soil can there contrive
to exist The Lumi also marks the line of contact between two very
different geological formations, namely, the volcanic lavas from
Kilimanjaro, and the schists and gneisses of the metamorphic area.
The people are a mixed race, a blending of the Bantu races of
Central and South Africa with the Hamitic tribes of the Xile and Xorth
Africa, the Bantu races being represented by the Wa-taveta, who are
closely related to the Wa-chaga and the Wa-teita ; the Hamitic
tril^es by that clan of the great Masai nation (known to the "Wa-
swahili as Wa-kwafi), who, after a series of disasters, were driven
from their original homes in the plains around Teita, Jipe and U-
sambara, and scattered over the country. In the sequel I shall take
occasion to enter more particularly into the history of this clan. I
need but say at present that a few Masai (Wa-kwafi), having lost all
their cattle, and being threatened with starvation, laid aside their
deep-rooted prejudices against the menial task of cultivating the soil,
as well as various cherished customs and traditions, and threw in
their lot with the Wa-taveta. And now, so thoroughly amalgamated
are they in ideas, customs, &c., that it has become difficult to
distinguish the two different races. The "Wa-kwafi are characterized
by a finer physique (which indeed is sometimes well worthy of the
atiniration of the sculptor), a superior physiognomy, more prominent
cheek-bones, and a tendency to a Mongolian upward slant of the
eyes. The young men dress in the manner of their ancestors, though
the older men have to some extent approximated to coast notions.
The pecidiar manner of circumcision proper to the Masai has also
been retained In
 64 Through Masai Land. most other respects, however, they
have altered their ideas to harmonize with the pure-bred Wa-taveta.
Perhaps one of the most remarkable changes is in the matter of
honesty. From being the most notorious and audacious thieves in all
Africa they have become distinctly the reverse, while without loss of
their original bravery they have laid aside their bloodthirsty ideas
and fondness for war. Though a mere handful of men, yet, secure in
their arboreal fortress, they have bid defiance to great hordes of
Masai, and even snapped their fingers at the more crafty Mandara,
the warrior-chief of Chaga, who has long dreamt of seizing their
stronghold, and thus getting command of the caravan route. I can
safely say that nowhere have I met such pleasing and manly natives
over the whole extent of country I have yet traversed in Africa. We
struck up a very great friendship, which remained unbroken by a
single incident and forms one of my most agreeable recollections. I
have spoken of Taveta as an Arcadia in respect of its charming
scenes. I may now say that the natives hardly detract from the
poetical picture. True Arcadians they are in their peaceable habits,
their great hospitality, their mauly, pleasant manners, and surprising
honesty. To the traders from the coast, Taveta has always been a
place of great importance. Situated at the very threshold of the
Masai country, offering perfect security to whosoever would enter,
and further recommended by its abundance of food and the
character of its natives, it has most naturally been made a resting
and recruiting station for caravans proceeding to or coming from the
Masai country. No caravan can pass without a stay, on one pretext or
another, of from a fortnight to a couple of months, and as all such
visitors are fed almost entirely at the expense of their numerous
native friends, it is an agreeable and cheap way of spending the time
where time is no object. Such, then, gentle readers, are the main
facts regarding your surroundings, and the denizens thereof. And
now, if you have finished eating those delicious bananas, and
chewed sugar-cane till the sweet juice has palled upon you, we may
resume our tramp down the few remaining miles which separate us
from Lake Jipe, which we so recently saw glimmering in the
distance. As we emerge from the shady grove we stand entranced
by a lovely sight which unexpectedly breaks on our view. For many
days we have been at the base of Kilimanjaro, and yet
 First Glimpse op Kilimanjaro. 65 not a glimpse has
rewarded our frequent attempts to view its cloud-piercing heights.
We have begun almost to ask ourselves if we are, after-all, to be
doomed to the mere " mental recognition " ascribed to Rebmann.
Happily such is not to be our fate. The " Mount Olympus " of these
parts stands forth revealed in all its glory fitly framed by the
neighbouring trees. There is the grand dome or crater of Kibo, with
its snow cap glancing and scintillating like burnished silver ill the rays
of the afternoon sun, and there, on its eastern flank, as a striking
contrast, rise the jagged outlines of the craggy jioak of Kimawenzi.
What words can adequately describe this glimpse of majestic
grandeur and godlike repose ? We can only stand speechless with
feelings of awe. But our opportunity is brief. The veil has merely
been temporarily lifted, and now huge, fleecy-white cumulus clouds
roll and tumble along the fides of the great mountain till only the
black pinnacle and the glittering dome are seen projected against
the pure azure, and hanging apparently in mid-heaven more
impressive than ever. At last a veU of stratus mysteriously spreads
itself out. In a few seconds the whole scene has vanished, " like the
baseless fabric of a vision," and we find ourselves blankly staring at
a monotonous expanse of grey. Turning with a sigh, we hurry rapidly
towards Jipe as if, after such a scene, nothing else was worthy of
special notice. We cross some beautiful park-like country, crush our
way through the outer barrier, and find ourselves iu the grass jungle
to the north of the lake. Here we come upon lots of game, and soon
bag for the pot two pallah and one waterbuck, and leaving men to
cut them up, we speedily reach the object of our tramp. Jipe we find
to be a shallow expanse of water lying at the base of the Ugono
mountains, which rise precipitously into a picturesque range of much
grandeur, though the outlines are simple, and the top flat. The
height of these mountains is little over 7000 feet, and the numerous
columns of curling smoke tell of inhabitants similar to the Wa-teita.
The lake lies at an altitude of 2350 feet. It is about ten miles from
north to south, and only some three miles broad. It is comparatively
shallow, and may indeed be described as a backwater of the Lumi
formed by the subsidence of the ground, due doubtless, as is so
often the case in similar positions, to withdrawal of the matter
ejected by Kilimanjaro in its days of activity as a volcano. It contains
several schools of hippos, a few crocodiles, and a great number of
capital fish, which also find their way up the F
 66 Theough Masai Land. Lumi. At the point where this
stream enters the lake, another flowinf,' west gives exit to the
snrphis water, and conveys it to tlie Kufu or Pangani river. The
lengthening shadows, however, tell us that the day is rapidly coming
to a close, and if we do not want to be belated in the forest midst
howling hyenas and roaring lions, we must step out in no
lackadaisical inanner. In an hour we are once more back to the
native plantations. We get another glimpse of Kilimanjaro, and have
several charming peeps at the winding Lvmii. But now listen ! Wliat
is the meaning of that full- voiced, sonorous song which wells forth
from the depths of the forest, and echoes through the trees in ever-
increasing volume 1 That is the music, to which the natives,
following the Masai customs, tread a measure. No thundering drum
or yelling native clarionet, as elsewhere, supplies the rhythmic
sounds and accentuates the varying movement. A less spirited
though decidedly more musical, " Ho-oh ! Ohho ! " monotonously
reiterated fills the woodland with its rolling resonance. Ah ! there
they are ! A group of young men and maidens in that pretty nook.
See what splendidly proportioned athletes, with hair rolled into
strings which hang like a mop over their heads, small kidskin
garments flung over their shoulders or hanging by their sides, and a
glorious layer of grease and clay plastered on lavishly from head to
foot. The girls, with only an luider girdle round the loins, and loaded
with beads, clay, and grease, make a piquant element in the scene.
They stop for a moment as we approach ; but soon they resume the
dance with fresh vigour and unabated enthusiasm. You stand with
astonishment to view the extraordinary and laborious manner in
which the natives enjoy themselves. A young man advances, holding
a wand in his hand. His arms hang straight down. At first he hops
forward like a bird, till, reaching the centre, he commences a series
of leaps straight into the air, Mdthout bending his legs or moving his
arms. Ever and anon he gives his head a hitch forward, bringing his
long back hair over his face. After springing in this manner about a
dozen times, he steps aside, and another takes his place, till all have
gone through their paces. Then with wilder movement they trot
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