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 Texas
5th Edition

by David Baird, Eric Peterson

& Neil E. Schlecht

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 CONTENTS

LIST OF MAPS vii

WHAT’S NEW IN TEXAS 1

1 THE BEST OF TEXAS 5

1 The Best Luxury & Historic 7 The Best Museums . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12

Hotels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5 8 The Best Shopping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
2 The Best Bed & Breakfasts 9 The Best Places for Boot-
& Boutique Hotels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7 Scootin’. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14
3 The Best Hotel Bargains . . . . . . . . . . . .8 10 The Best of Natural Texas. . . . . . . . . .15
4 The Best Restaurants . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 11 The Best Historical Attractions. . . . .16
5 The Best Texan Dining. . . . . . . . . . . . .10 12 The Best Family Adventures . . . . . . .17
6 The Best Lone Star Experiences . . . .11 13 The Best of Texas Online . . . . . . . . . .18

2 TEXAS IN DEPTH 20

1 Texas Today . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 3 Texas in Pop Culture . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26

2 Looking Back at Texas . . . . . . . . . . . . .21 4 Eating & Drinking in Texas. . . . . . . . .33
Gloss’ry: How to Talk Like a Texan . . . . 22

3 PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO TEXAS 35

1 Visitor Information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35 Texas: Gateway to Mexico. . . . . . . . . . . 48

2 Entry Requirements & Customs . . . .35 6 Health . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48
Cut to the Front of the Airport 7 Safety . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50
Security Line as a Registered 8 Specialized Travel Resources . . . . . .50
Traveler . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36
9 Sustainable Tourism. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .53
3 When to Go. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38
It’s Easy Being Green . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
Texas Calendar of Events. . . . . . . . . . . . 39
Frommers.com: The Complete
4 Getting There & Getting Travel Resource . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56
Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42
10 Packages for the Independent
5 Money & Costs. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46 Traveler . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .56
 iv 11 Escorted General-Interest Tours . . . .56 14 Staying Connected. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .60
12 Special-Interest Trips . . . . . . . . . . . . . .57 15 Tips on Accommodations . . . . . . . . .62
13 Planning Your Trip Online . . . . . . . . .59

4 SUGGESTED ITINERARIES IN TEXAS 63

1 The Regions in Brief . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .63 4 Texas for Families. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .70

2 Texas in 1 Week . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .67 5 Exploring the Texas-Mexico
3 Texas in 2 Weeks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .69 Border . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .72

5 DALLAS–FORT WORTH 74

1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .74 3 Arlington . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120

2 Dallas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .76 4 Fort Worth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122
The Neighborhoods in Brief . . . . . . . . . 79 Grapevine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .123
TEXAS

Fast Facts: Dallas. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84 The Neighborhoods in Brief . . . . . . . .124

Family-Friendly Hotels in DFW . . . . . . 93 Fast Facts: Fort Worth . . . . . . . . . . . . . .128
Family-Friendly Restaurants in Family-Friendly Restaurants in
Dallas. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99 Fort Worth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .136
Picnic Places . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .103 Christmas in the Stockyards. . . . . . . .141
CO N T E N T S

Downtown Dallas’s Outdoor The Grapevine Vintage Railroad . . . .143

Sculpture . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .106

6 HOUSTON & EAST TEXAS 155

1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156 Fast Food a la Houston . . . . . . . . . . . .182

The Neighborhoods in Brief . . . . . . . .159 Family-Friendly Restaurants. . . . . . . .187
2 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165 5 Seeing the Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 190
Fast Facts: Houston . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .167 6 Sports & Outdoor Activities . . . . . 199
3 Where to Stay. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168 7 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 200
Family-Friendly Hotels. . . . . . . . . . . . . .177 8 Houston After Dark . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202
4 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179 9 Side Trips to East Texas . . . . . . . . . . 206
Houston Dining Landmark Race Relations in East Texas. . . . . . . .208
Rebuilding After Ike . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .180 Texas State Railroad. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .210

7 THE TEXAS GULF COAST 212

1 Galveston . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 212 2 Brazosport . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 220

Hurricane Ike & Aftermath . . . . . . . . .216 Birding Along the Texas Coast. . . . . .222
The Storm. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .219 Texas’s Most Deserted Beach . . . . . . .225
3 Corpus Christi. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 226 6 Padre Island National v
4 Rockport. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 232 Seashore. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 240
Whooping Cranes: Back from The Race to Save the Sea Turtles . . . .243
the Brink of Extinction . . . . . . . . . . . . .233 7 South Padre Island . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 245
5 Port Aransas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 237 Face to Face with a Sea Turtle. . . . . .249

8 SAN ANTONIO 253

1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 254 5 Seeing the Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 281

The Neighborhoods in Brief . . . . . . . .256 6 Sports & Outdoor Activities . . . . . 288
2 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 258 7 Shopping in San Antonio . . . . . . . 289
Fast Facts: San Antonio . . . . . . . . . . . .259 8 San Antonio After Dark. . . . . . . . . . 292
3 Where to Stay. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 260 Conjunto: An American Classic . . . .294
Family-Friendly Hotels. . . . . . . . . . . . . .269 9 Hill Country Side Trips from
4 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 273 San Antonio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 296

TEXAS
Family-Friendly Restaurants. . . . . . . .279 A Taste of Alsace in Texas. . . . . . . . . . .297
Local Favorites: Taquerías . . . . . . . . . .280

9 AUSTIN 300

CO N T E N T S
1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 300 5 Seeing the Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 326
The Neighborhoods in Brief . . . . . . . .302 Going Batty . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .328
2 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 304 6 Staying Active. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 333
Fast Facts: Austin. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .305 7 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 335
3 Where to Stay. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 306 First Thursdays . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .336
It Pays to Stay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .314 8 Austin After Dark. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 338
Family-Friendly Hotels. . . . . . . . . . . . . .315 9 Hill Country Side Trips from
4 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 317 Austin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 341
Family-Friendly Restaurants. . . . . . . .324

10 WEST TEXAS 347

1 El Paso . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 347 Gallery Hopping in the Big Bend . . . .372

Fast Facts: El Paso . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .352 3 Midland-Odessa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 374
2 Small Towns of Central West 4 San Angelo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 378
Texas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 365 5 Del Rio & Amistad National
Marfa’s Mystery Lights . . . . . . . . . . . . .370 Recreation Area . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 384
 vi
11 BIG BEND & GUADALUPE MOUNTAINS
NATIONAL PARKS 389
1 Big Bend National Park . . . . . . . . . . 389 3 A Side Trip to Carlsbad Caverns
2 Guadalupe Mountains National Park. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 408
National Park. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 402

12 THE PANHANDLE PLAINS 416

1 Amarillo. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 416 Old Route 66 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .430

Unanticipated Rewards . . . . . . . . . . . .422 3 Lubbock . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 433
2 Canyon & Palo Duro Canyon A Different Kind of Texas Tea . . . . . . .437
State Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 428

APPENDIX: FAST FACTS, TOLL-FREE NUMBERS

& WEBSITES 443
TEXAS

1 Fast Facts: Texas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 443 2 Toll-Free Numbers & Websites . . . 450

INDEX 4 54
CO N T E N T S
 LIST OF MAPS vii

Texas Driving Times The Texas Gulf Coast. . . . . . . . . . . . . 213

& Distances . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 Galveston . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 215
The Regions in Brief . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 Corpus Christi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 227
The Best of Texas in 1 Week . . . . . . . 68 South Padre Island . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 247
The Best of Texas in 2 Weeks . . . . . . 70 South-Central Texas . . . . . . . . . . . . . 255
Texas for Families . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 Greater San Antonio
Exploring the Texas-Mexico Accommodations,
Border. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73 Dining & Attractions . . . . . . . . . . 262
Dallas–Fort Worth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76 Central San Antonio
Downtown & Deep Ellum Accommodations,
Accommodations, Dining Dining & Attractions . . . . . . . . . . 265
& Attractions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82 Greater Austin Accommodations,
Uptown & Oak Lawn Dining & Attractions . . . . . . . . . . 308
Accommodations Central Austin Accommodations,
& Dining . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86 Dining & Attractions . . . . . . . . . . 311
Fort Worth Stockyards National West Texas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 349
Historic District . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125 El Paso . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 350
Downtown Fort Worth . . . . . . . . . . . 127 Big Bend National Park . . . . . . . . . . 391
Fort Worth Cultural District . . . . . . 130 Guadalupe Mountains
Houston . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157 National Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 403
Central Houston Carlsbad Caverns
Accommodations . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160 National Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 409
Central Houston Dining The Panhandle Plains . . . . . . . . . . . . 417
& Attractions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 162 Amarillo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 419
East Texas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 207 Lubbock . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 435
A B O U T T H E AU T H O R S
David Baird is a writer, editor, and translator based in A ustin, Texas. He was born and br ed
in Houston, though he spent part of his childhood in Morelia, Mexico. He has contributed to
several works about Texas and Mexico, including Frommer’s Mexico.
Eric Peterson lives in Denver, Colorado, and writes about all sor ts of subjects, including but
not limited to trav el, business, politics, music, and envir onmental issues. He is the author of
several Frommer’s guides and Ramble California (Fulcrum Books, 2009). Peterson’s byline has
recently appeared in such publications as the New York Daily News, High Country News, Forbes
Life MountainTime, and ColoradoBiz.
Neil E. Schlecht was reared in North Dallas. He attended Plano Senior High School, returned
for graduate school at UT–A ustin, and married a Texan. Now living in nor thwestern Con-
necticut, he is the author and co-author of mor e than a dozen travel guides, including From-
mer’s Peru, Spain For Dummies, and Frommer’s Cuba. His Texas heroes are Lance Armstrong,
Stevie Ray Vaughan, and Jimmie Dale Gilmore.
A N I N V I TAT I O N TO T H E R E A D E R
In researching this book, w e discovered many wonder ful places—hotels, r estaurants, shops,
and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share the informa-
tion with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed with a recom-
mendation, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to:
Frommer’s Texas, 5th Edition
Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774

A N A D D I T I O N A L N OT E
Please be advised that trav el information is subject to change at any time—and this is espe-
cially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirmation when
making your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held r esponsible for
the experiences of r eaders while trav eling. Your safety is impor tant to us, ho wever, so w e
encourage you to stay aler t and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a close ey e on cameras,
purses, and wallets, all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets.

Other Great Guides for Your Trip:

Frommer’s San Antonio & Austin
Frommer’s National Parks of the American West
Frommer’s USA
F R O M M E R ’S S TA R R AT I N G S, I CO N S & A B B R E V I AT I O N S
Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality , value,
service, amenities, and special featur es using a star-rating system. I n countr y, state, and
regional guides, w e also rate to wns and r egions to help y ou narrow down your choices and
budget y our time accor dingly. H otels and r estaurants ar e rated on a scale of z ero (r ecom-
mended) to three stars (exceptional). Attractions, shopping, nightlife, to wns, and regions are
rated accor ding to the follo wing scale: z ero stars (r ecommended), one star (highly r ecom-
mended), two stars (very highly recommended), and three stars (must-see).
In addition to the star-rating system, we also use seven feature icons that point you to the
great deals, in-the-know advice, and unique experiences that separate trav elers from tourists.
Throughout the book, look for:

Finds Special finds—those places only insiders kno w about

Fun Facts Fun facts—details that make travelers more informed and their trips more fun

Kids Best bets for kids, and advice for the whole family

Moments Special moments—those experiences that memories ar e made of

Overrated Places or experiences not wor th your time or money

Tips Insider tips—great ways to save time and money

Value Great values—where to get the best deals

The following abbreviations are used for credit cards:

AE American Express DISC D iscover V Visa
DC D iners Club MC M asterCard

F R O M M E R S.CO M
Now that y ou have this guidebook to help y ou plan a gr eat trip, visit our w ebsite at www.
frommers.com for additional travel information on more than 4,000 destinations. We update
features r egularly to giv e y ou instant access to the most curr ent trip-planning information
available. A t Frommers.com, y ou’ll find scoops on the best air fares, lodging rates, and car
rental bargains. You can ev en book y our trav el online thr ough our r eliable trav el booking
partners. Other popular features include:
• Online updates of our most popular guidebooks
• Vacation sweepstakes and contest giveaways
• Newsletters highlighting the hottest travel trends
• Podcasts, interactive maps, and up-to-the-minute events listings
• Opinionated blog entries by Arthur Frommer himself
• Online travel message boards with featured travel discussions
 What’s New in Texas
DALLAS WHERE TO DINE With his eponymous
Former president George W. Bush and his new r estaurant in the ne w Ritz-Carlton,
wife have returned to Texas and are living Dallas, Fearing’s, 2121 M cKinney A ve.
full-time in D allas, site of Laura ’s alma (& 214/922-4848), has stolen some of
mater, S outhern M ethodist U niversity— the thunder fr om fello w S outhwestern
not coincidentally the big winner in the innovator Stephan Pyles, who opened his
presidential library sweepstakes. own do wntown r estaurant a couple of
years ago. For now, Fearing’s, named New
EXPLORING DALLAS The Conspiracy
Restaurant of the Year in 2008 b y Esquire
Museum, which was a slightly off-kilter
magazine, is the magnet for D allas’s mov-
look at the JFK assassination and other
ers, shakers, and impossibly beautiful
possible conspiracies, lost its lease to a
people. M eanwhile, the r estaurant D ean
sandwich shop and, despite pr omises,
Fearing helmed for 2 decades underwent a
hasn’t r egrouped. Dallas A quarium at
massive makeo ver, name change, and
Fair Park is curr ently closed for r enova-
reorientation of the menu; it ’s now called,
tions, slated to reopen in 2010.
somewhat awkwar dly, Mansion R estau-
WHERE T O STAY The highly antici- rant at R osewood M ansion on Turtle
pated Ritz-Carlton, Dallas, 2121 McKin- Creek, 2821 Turtle Creek Blvd. ( & 214/
ney Ave. ( & 214/922-0200), opened in 443-4747). The dr ess code is r elaxed, a
Uptown; its on-site r estaurant, F earing’s, New Yorker runs the kitchen, and the food
has nabbed ev en more attention than the is as stellar as ev er, if not better . I l S olé,
hotel. D allas’s longtime standar d-bearer long an Italian mainstay of the Dallas din-
for luxur y, Mansion on Turtle C reek, ing scene, went under, as did Rouge, a cool
2821 Turtle Creek Blvd. ( & 888-ROSE- and theatrical Spanish place.
WOOD [767-3966]), has joined the
AFTER D ARK The city ’s incr edible
Rosewood chain of hotels and r esorts,
$340-million Dallas Center for the P er-
though to Dallasites it’s still just the Man-
forming Arts, which will include Sir Nor-
sion. When the M ansion’s celebrity chef ,
man Foster’s Winspear Opera House and
Dean F earing, left (see belo w), the hotel
Rem K oolhaas’s Wyly Theater, is sched-
gave the w ell-regarded r estaurant’s decor
uled to open in 2009. The ne w Latino
and menu a thor ough makeo ver.
Cultural Center, 2600 Live Oak (& 214/
Stoneleigh H otel & S pa, 2927 M aple
670-3320), hosts a wide v ariety of Latin-
Ave. ( & 800/921-8498), under went an
oriented dance, music, theater , and ar t.
even mor e thor ough r enovation, com-
Among the bemoaned liv e music and
pletely r evamping the 1923 Ar t D eco
nightclub deaths: Trees, Club Clear view,
hotel and converting it into one of Dallas’s
Gypsy Tea Room, and Deep Ellum Blues.
chicest properties. The popular and busi-
Seeking to take their places in almost
ness traveler–friendly Bradford at Lincoln
one fell swoop ar e the P alladium, 1135
Park has become Hyatt S ummerfield
S. Lamar S t. ( & 972/854-5050), and
Suites, 8221 N. Central E xpwy. ( & 866/
House of B lues D allas, 2200 N. Lamar
974-9288).
St. ( & 214/978-2583), a 60,000-squar e-
foot complex.
 2 For additional information about D al- anchored b y oil pr oduction and r efining,
las, see chapter 5. kept churning along. B ut alas, no longer .
Yet the city has a lot going for it that will
FORT WORTH cushion the blow. Local businesses are still
WHERE T O STAY The Omni F ort sufficiently dynamic to suppor t moderate
Worth (& 800/THE-OMNI [843- housing constr uction, and r ecovery fr om
6664]), a massive luxury hotel (614 rooms) the damage caused b y Hurricane I ke has
was slightly delayed and will no w open in meant keeping contractors busy and insur-
early 2009. ance money flowing in. Signs of the dam-
WHERE TO DINE Tim Lo ve, of Lone- age wrought by the hurricane are vanishing
some Dove Western Bistro fame, sold his in the central city and will har dly be
restaurant D uce, lost his N ew York City noticeable by the spring of 2009. O n the
restaurant, and rebounded by opening the coast, it’s a different story.
wildly popular Love S hack, 110 E. WHERE T O STAY There’s a large sur-
Exchange A ve. ( & 817/740-8812), a plus of hotel rooms in the downtown area,
W H AT ’S N E W

funky, informal place with sloppy but and as a consequence, normal prices for
haute cuisine burgers in the hear t of the downtown hotel rooms have fallen consid-
Stockyards. The ex cellent r estaurant in erably and pr omotional rates, ev en for
the boutique Ashton H otel, 610 Main St. some luxur y hotels, ar e ev erywhere. Visi-
(& 817/332-0100), changed its name to tors are well advised to shop around.
610 Grille (from Café Ashton). The owner The most r ecent addition to the
of D allas’s D aniele O steria opened the hotel scene is Hotel ZaZa, 5701 Main St.
excellent, relaxed Brix Pizza & Wine Bar, (& 888/880-3244), opened much later
2747 S. H ulen S t. ( & 817/924-2749), than anticipated but wor th the wait. I t
serving authentic N ew York and I talian weds the ideal location of the old Warwick
pies. Hotel, at the center of the M useum Dis-
EXPLORING FORT WORTH The Cat- trict in the most v erdant par t of the city ,
tle Raisers Museum closed its independent with the flair and enthusiasm of a bou-
location in 2007 and will reopen as part of tique hotel.
the Museum of Science and History in late WHERE TO DINE The small r estaurant
2009. 17, 1117 P rairie St. ( & 832/200-8888),
AFTER D ARK Club closings include in the Alden-Houston Hotel, has changed
Ridglea and Vine Wineroom, the B lack chefs again. And with each change of chef,
Dog Tavern, and the Wreck Room. Try as this restaurant actually seems to be improv-
it might, Pete’s Dueling Piano Bar, 621 ing. The ne w chef , Wes M orton, hails
Houston S t. ( & 817/335-PETE [335- from Louisiana and has been cooking at
7383]), a sister piano-cum-karaoke bar of well-known r estaurants on both coasts.
establishments in D allas and A ustin, will His work is impeccable. Indika, 516 Wes-
have a hard time filling the void. theimer Rd. ( & 713/524-2170), has
For additional information about Ft. moved into the M ontrose ar ea fr om its
Worth, see chapter 5. original location in the far w est suburbs.
This mo ve is good for visitors, who can
HOUSTON now explor e a bit mor e of H ouston’s
The city is only now beginning to feel the dynamic restaurant scene without leaving
effects of the national economic slo w- the city’s core.
down. As long as the price of oil was in the For additional information about Hous-
stratosphere, the local economy , still ton, see chapter 6.
GULF COAST to the King W illiam Manor, 1037 S. 3
GALVESTON It’s har d to tell what the Alamo ( & 800/405-0367), including an
ultimate effects of H urricane I ke will be outdoor pool and ne wly landscaped
on Galveston and the coastal communities grounds.
along G alveston B ay. The storm came WHERE TO DINE The well-known chef
ashore in S eptember 2008 and all but Andrew Weissman, o wner of Le R êve,
destroyed the beach towns of Bolivar Pen- opened a small r estaurant around the cor-
insula, on the eastern side of the mouth of ner from his first restaurant. Sandbar, 152
the bay. I t will take y ears for these com- E. P ecan S t. ( & 210/222-2426), ser ves
munities to come back, if at all. The dam- the fr eshest seafood y ou’re going to get
age to G alveston, protected as it was b y a anywhere. Open for dinner only.
seawall, was extensiv e, but was mainly EXPLORING SAN ANTONIO The Mar-
flooding. Ike’s impact in this case might be ion Koogler McNay Ar t Museum, 6000
mainly economic in that it will encourage N. N ew B raunfels A ve. ( & 210/824-
many local businesses to r elocate, ulti- 5368), has completed an ambitious expan-

W H AT ’S N E W
mately shrinking the local economy . The sion that nearly doubles its galler y space.
extensive r enovation of the historic East The new addition is modern and air y, yet
End district, a product of years of work, is somehow doesn’t detract fr om this muse-
now at risk. I n worse condition ar e the um’s intimate feel. The design makes use of
tracts of beach houses on the island’s west- natural light, filtered and adjusted to match
ern side. These, which lie bey ond the sea- the needs of any particular exhibition.
wall, w ere exposed to wind and water . Read more about San Antonio in chap-
Many are of light frame constr uction and ter 8.
have lost r oofs, walls, and por ches. The
beaches on this side were severely eroded. AUSTIN
SOUTH P ADRE ISL AND This resort WHERE T O STAY A r emarkable ne w
city was hit b y H urricane D olly in J uly property, opened in D ecember 2008, is
2008. Dolly was considerably milder than Hotel S aint Cecilia, 112 A cademy D r.
Ike, causing less than a tenth of the dam- (& 512/852-2400), with 14 large, ultra-
age. The city is fully up and r unning and plush rooms, featuring ster eos with turn-
ready for the annual onslaught of college tables (and a large vinyl collection in
kids for spring break. reception) and handmade S wedish mat-
For mor e about the G ulf Coast, see tresses. It’s located near Austin’s hip South
chapter 7. Congress Avenue.
Lake A ustin S pa R esort, 1705 S.
SAN ANTONIO Quinlan P ark Rd. ( & 800/847-5637),
Renovation to the city ’s Main Plaza, also won top honors on Condé N ast’s list of
called P laza de las I slas, has been com- favorite spa resorts for 2008. It is indeed a
pleted. It has made the ar ea fronting San beautiful pr operty and is a fav orite with
Fernando Cathedral and the Bexar County both visitors and locals.
Courthouse both an urban gr een space WHERE T O DINE Las M anitas, a
and a social space for the city ’s deniz ens. famous r estaurant in do wntown A ustin,
Meanwhile, the extension of the River closed its doors for good, a victim of devel-
Walk in both dir ections from downtown opment. Another w ell-known r estaurant,
continues at a measured pace. Mother’s C afé & G arden (& 512/451-
WHERE T O STAY The Columns on 3994), a v egetarian r estaurant in H yde
Alamo has changed hands and names. The Park, has r eopened. It suffer ed heavy fir e
new owners are making extensiv e changes damage in 2007, and has come back
 4 strong, with a more attractive dining area. BIG BEND & GUADALUPE
Cipollina, 1213 W. L ynn ( & 512/477- MOUNTAINS NATIONAL
5211), reinvented itself as a small neigh-
borhood I talian bistr o with r easonable PARKS
prices and fine dining based on local BIG BEND NA TIONAL P ARK H ome-
ingredients. land Security policy continues to ban the
tradition of par k visitors cr ossing the Rio
EXPLORING A USTIN In the summer Grande into adjacent Mexican villages.
of 2008, a fire, deliberately set by unknown New lodging options abound in Terlin-
delinquents, seriously damaged the Gov- gua G host Town, including the r uin–
ernor’s Mansion. The mansion was closed turned–romantic getaway La P osada
for remodeling at the time of the fir e, and Milagro, 100 M ilagro Rd. ( & 432/371-
the governor and his wife were living else- 3044), and the ne wly r estored Holiday
where. The fir e caused extensiv e damage Hotel, behind the Terlingua Trading
to the str ucture of the mansion, but the Company ( & 432/371-2234). The pro-
furnishings w ere largely spar ed because prietors of the H oliday hav e also been
W H AT ’S N E W

they had been moved off-site for the reno- restoring numerous houses in the ar ea for
vation. S o far, ther e is no target date for overnight guests.
reopening.
CARLSBAD C AVERNS NA TIONAL
SHOPPING Tesoros T rading Co. PARK Southern New Mexico has a ne w
(& 512/447-7500), the large and enter- area code: 575.
taining impor t stor e, has r elocated to See chapter 11 for mor e about these
South A ustin, at 1500 S. Congr ess Ave., national parks.
where it’s par t of the engaging r estaurant
and shopping ar ea that has gr own up on THE PANHANDLE PLAINS
this stretch of the avenue. AMARILLO Opening in late 2008, a
For more about Austin, see chapter 9. solid new hotel is the Hilton Garden Inn,
900 I-40 W. (& 800/321-3232).
WEST TEXAS After a complete renovation, the Ameri-
EL PASO A slick new El Paso Museum can Q uarter H orse H all of F ame &
of History, 510 N. S anta Fe St. ( & 915/ Museum, 2601 I-40 E. ( & 806/376-
351-3588), opened do wntown in 2007, 5181), reopened in 2007—the project was
and is a great improvement over its prede- more than worth the wait.
cessor on the city’s east side. In Vega, 35 miles w est of Amarillo, a
Across the Rio G rande in J uárez, 2008 fun ne w r estaurant opened in 2007: the
was one of the worst y ears for dr ug vio- Boot Hill Saloon & Grill, 909 Vega Blvd.
lence in histor y. While tourists hav e not (& 806/267-2904).
been a target, it is especially impor tant to
remain vigilant and to trav el in a gr oup if LUBBOCK A new winer y started up in
you do cr oss. Also, passpor ts ar e no w 2008, McPherson Cellars Winery, 1615
required for reentry into the United States Texas Ave. (& 806/687-9463). There is a
from Mexico. major new hotel in the wor ks, the Over-
ton H otel & Confer ence Center , on
DEL RIO La H acienda, 330 P ecan S t. 4th S treet just east of U niversity A venue
in P ecan S treet S tation ( & 830/774- (& 806/776-7000), slated to open in fall
7094), and The Herald, 321 S. M ain St. 2009.
(& 830/774-2845), ar e r elatively ne w See chapter 12 for more about the Pan-
restaurants that hav e emerged as local handle Plains.
standouts. For more about West Texas, see
chapter 10.
 1
The Best of Texas
by David Baird, Eric Peterson & Neil Edward Schlecht

In this chapt er, we’ve put t ogether lists of our fa vorite experiences,
destinations, and services to help you plan your own Texas travels.

1 T H E B E S T LU X U R Y & H I S T O R I C H O T E L S
• The Adolphus Hotel (Dallas; & 800/ • Stockyards H otel (F ort Worth;
221-9083 or 214/742-8200): This & 800/423-8471 or 817/625-6427):
landmark B eaux Ar ts hotel, built b y Over-the-top luxur y would be gauche
beer baron Adolphus Busch, looks and in the old Stockyards, so this extremely
feels like a European château. Luxuriate comfortable and authentic slice of the
among dark-wood parlors, bar oque art Old West qualifies as a F ort Worth
and antiques, and an opulent dining indulgence: cowboy luxury. Outlaws on
room, one of B ig D’s best r estaurants. the run, cowpokes and their madames,
Rooms are English country style, and a and the C&W elite have all propped up
three-course English tea is ser ved every their boots her e. Co wtown’s cattle-
afternoon. See p. 85. ranching and railr oad past ar e effor t-
• Rosewood M ansion on Turtle C reek lessly ev oked in the r ooms, each of
(Dallas; & 800/422-3408 or 214/599- which is different. See p. 126.
2100): R epeatedly named one of the • Four S easons H otel H ouston (H ous-
top five hotels in the United States, the ton; & 800/332-3442 or 713/650-
Mansion draws mo vie stars, princes, 1300): Lots of space to str etch out in
presidents, and luxur y mav ens. F or- and lots of ser vice so y ou don’t have to
merly the grand estate of a cotton mag- stretch too far . This hotel surpasses all
nate in the 1920s and 1930s, the others in amenities and services. Within
Mansion is r efined and supr emely ele- a fe w blocks ar e the baseball par k, the
gant throughout, with service to match. basketball arena, a shopping mall, and
The r evamped r estaurant has again the conv ention center . A bit bey ond
vaulted to the top of the heap . S ee that ar e the city ’s theater and nightlife
p. 89. hubs. See p. 168.
• Hotel Zaza (Dallas; & 800/597-8399 • Hotel D erek (H ouston; & 866/292-
or 214/468-8399): This super fashion- 4100 or 713/961-3000): The most com-
able U ptown boutique hotel has a fortable and most fun place to stay in
catchy name and a cachet fe w can Houston’s highly popular U ptown/Gal-
match. It is luxurious but überhip, with leria area. The Derek offers a rare combi-
eclectic style to burn. The hotel has nation of practicality and style, making it
“concept” suites with funky themes a perfect choice for the business traveler
(“Shag-a-delic” S uite, any one? ) and or the v acation shopper . Service is
new, fantasyland “M agnificent S even” smooth, and the r estaurant wins rav es
suites. See p. 90. from the local food writers. See p. 175.
 6 • Lancaster H otel (H ouston; & 800/ are so attractiv e and comfor table, the
231-0336 or 713/228-9500): P ersonal service is so personal, and the spa is so
service, charming r ooms, and gr eat easy to enjoy that you may never leave.
location are the keys to this hotel ’s suc- See p. 264.
cess. I f ther e’s one hotel that makes • The D riskill (A ustin; & 800/252-
having a car unnecessar y in H ouston, 9367 or 512/474-5911): If you want to
this is it. Within easy walking distance play cattle bar on, y ou can ’t do better
are the symphony, the opera, three the- than stay in this opulent 1886 hotel,
aters, the ballet, a multiplex cinema, restored to its former glory at the end of
and sev eral r estaurants and clubs. S ee the 20th century. See p. 307.
p. 169. • Four Seasons Austin (Austin; & 800/
• Omni Corpus Christi H otel (Corpus 332-3442 or 512/478-4500): With
Christi; & 800/843-6664 or 361/887- panoramic vie ws of the lake, the won-
THE BEST OF TEXAS

1600): The two to wers of the O mni derful ser vice that this chain is kno wn
overlook Corpus Christi B ay, and the for, and a spa that consistently wins
floor-to-ceiling windows of the 20-story high praise, nothing is lacking her e.
Bayfront Tower offer spectacular vie ws Rooms ar e large and comfor table and
of the Gulf, particularly from its upper come with all the amenities. Right out-
floors. Pamper yourself with a massage side the door is A ustin’s popular hike-
from the in-house massage therapist or and-bike trail, which rings the lake, and
relax in the whirlpool. See p. 230. Austin’s comfor table and fun do wn-
1 • Isla Grand Beach Resort (South Padre town. See p. 307.
Island; & 800/292-7704 or 956/761- • Lake Austin Spa Resort (Austin; 1705
T H E B E S T LU X U R Y & H I S T O R I C H O T E L S

6511): F rom the high-ceilinged lobb y S. Q uinlan P ark Rd.; & 800/847-
to the beautiful landscaping around the 5637): This spa resort gets more write-
swimming pools, this r esort spells lux- ups than any other lodging in A ustin,
ury. M any r ooms hav e grand vie ws of most recently as best destination spa in
the ocean. See p. 250. the countr y b y the r eaders of Condé
• Omni La Mansión del Río (San Anto- Nast Traveler. Nothing spells luxury bet-
nio; & 800/830-1400 or 210/518- ter than the pampering spa tr eatments
1000): O ccupying what was once the this place is known for. But you can also
local seminar y, this hotel has kept the find it in the beauty and ser enity that
local feel of the building, with architec- surround the place. See p. 316.
tural featur es such as beamed ceilings • Cibolo Creek Ranch (Shafter; & 432/
and stone balconies. La M ansión is not 229-3737): Tucked under the Chinati
a high-rise, and it enjo ys a wide fr ont- Mountains in some of the most wide-
age along the River Walk. It is, in short, open countr y in all of Texas, this is a
the best hotel for experiencing S an getaway for the most special of occa-
Antonio. See p. 264. sions, and accordingly priced. The idyl-
• The Watermark H otel & S pa (S an lic setting plays host today to a first-class
Antonio; & 866/605-1212 or 210/ resort, featuring pictur e-perfect guest
396-5800): If relaxation and pampering rooms with red-tile floors, adobe walls,
are what y ou seek, the Watermark and sumptuous bor der decor. The rec-
should be y our choice in S an Antonio. reation is as impr essive as the scener y.
From the moment y ou step foot into See p. 370.
the lobb y, ev erything is taken car e of • Gage H otel (M arathon; & 432/386-
effortlessly. The hotel has a gr eat loca- 4205): Located 50 miles nor th of B ig
tion on the Riv er Walk, but the r ooms Bend National Park, the historic G age
 Hotel opened in 1927 as the social hub early 1980s, melding history and an eye 7
for ar ea ranchers and miners, but fell for Texas chic. The historic rooms have
into shambles under the deser t sun in cow-skin rugs, hardwood floors, Navajo
the ensuing decades. B ut that period is blankets, and oodles of personality . See
long over: The current owners restored p. 400.
the old r edbrick’s many charms in the

2 T H E B E S T B E D & B R E A K FA S T S &
BOUTIQUE HOTELS
• Hôtel S t. G ermain (D allas; & 214/ restaurants of Sundance Square. It bears
871-2516): E ver wanted to stay with the name of E tta P lace, the handsome

THE BEST OF TEXAS

your spouse at a plush bor dello? This girlfriend of the Sundance Kid, who no
intimate boutique hotel and elegant, doubt would appr ove of the spacious,
prix-fixe restaurant is about as close as modern r ooms with lots of light and
you’ll come to that fantasy . A gorgeous Texas touches. Kick back in the clubb y
mix of early-20th-centur y F rance and library and music rooms. See p. 132.
New O rleans, the sev en suites ar e so • La Colombe d ’Or (Houston; & 713/
swank, with such pampering features as 524-7999): Have a four-course F rench
wood-burning fir eplaces, draped dinner ser ved in y our suite ’s separate
Napoleón sleigh beds, bidets, and soak- dining r oom. With such personal ser- 1
ing tubs, that y ou may not want to vice and with only five suites, there’s no

T H E B E S T B E D & B R E A K FA S T S & B O U T I Q U E H O T E L S
leave. See p. 88. way you’ll get lost in the shuffle. O ccu-
• Belmont H otel (D allas; & 866/870- pying a mansion built for an oil ty coon
8010 or 214/393-2000): Dallas usually in the 1920s, the hotel has uncommon
goes gaga o ver mirr ored glass and architectural featur es, and is furnished
brand-spanking-new buildings, so it ’s a with antiques. Its location in Houston’s
refreshing change to find this vintage Montrose D istrict puts it squar ely in
1940s motor lodge in O ak Cliff trans- the middle of the hippest par t of town.
formed into a stylish, r etro-styled bou- See p. 173.
tique hotel. With its cool lounge bar • George Blucher House Bed & Break-
and midcentur y-modern decor , it ’s a fast I nn (Corpus Christi; & 866/
dollop of P alm S prings with the atti- 884-4884 or 361/884-4884): This
tude of A ustin and vie ws of the D allas wonderful B&B combines the ambi-
skyline. See p. 87. ence of an elegant historic home—it
• The A shton H otel (F ort Worth; was built in 1904—with modern ame-
& 866/327-4866 or 817/332-0100): nities. B reakfasts ar e ser ved b y candle-
Just off Sundance Square, this boutique light, and y ou’re just acr oss the str eet
hotel—Fort Worth’s only small luxur y from a prime bir d-watching ar ea. S ee
hotel—offers plush r ooms and smooth p. 230.
service, as well as, in 610 G rille, one of • Ogé H ouse I nn on the Riv er Walk
the best restaurants in North Texas. See (San Antonio; & 800/242-2770 or
p. 131. 210/223-2353): The King William area
• Etta’s Place (Fort Worth; & 866/355- abounds with B&Bs, but the O gé
5760 or 817/255-5760): A cozy and House stands out as much for its pr o-
relaxing small hotel that feels like a fessional ser vice as for its gorgeous
B&B is just a hear tbeat fr om F ort mansion and lovely rooms. See p. 268.
Worth’s charming nightlife, shops, and
 8 • Mansion at J udges H ill (A ustin; with whatev er y our fav orite cr epe is;
& 800/311-1619 or 512/495-1800): lounge on the priv ate deck or patio of
A room in the original mansion ev okes your room; or spin some vinyl on y our
the feel of a mor e relaxed and gracious in-room turntable. See p. 313.
era, especially the second-floor r ooms • Villa del Rio Bed & B reakfast (D el
which have a large and inviting por ch, Rio; & 800/995-1887 or 830/768-
tempting one to linger and enjo y the 1100): A luxurious Mediterranean-style
view. The friendly and helpful ser vice villa—actually a mix of I talian and
reinforces the feeling. See p. 314. Mexican styles—built in 1887, the Villa
• Hotel S aint Cecilia (A ustin; & 512/ del Rio gets our v ote for the best place
852-2400): This new hotel captures the to stay in this ar ea for any one who
feel for what ’s fun about the A ustin appreciates old-world ambience and
scene. It also takes comfort to an entirely pampering and an ex citing br eakfast.
THE BEST OF TEXAS

new level: Sleep deeply on a handmade See p. 385.

Swedish mattr ess; gr eet the morning

3 THE BEST HOTEL BARGAINS

• Hyatt S ummerfield S uites (D allas; near do wntown—not to mention
& 866/974-9288 or 214/696-1555): superattractive r ooms in a historic
1 This straightfor ward, r esidential-style structure. See p. 267.
hotel primarily targets businesspeople • Austin M otel (A ustin; & 512/441-
T H E B E S T R E S TAU R A N T S

but is also superb for other travelers and 1157): Look for the classic neon sign in
families. The spacious suites hav e fully Austin’s hip SoCo area. The rooms have
equipped kitchens, and there are a pool been individually furnished, many in
and small spa, an ex ercise room, and a fun and funky styles, but the place
business center. See p. 92. retains its 1950s character and its lower-
• Lovett I nn (H ouston; & 800/779- than-1990s prices. See p. 313.
5224 or 713/522-5224): This B&B • Travelodge Hotel—La Hacienda Air-
offers attractiv e, comfor table r ooms port (E l P aso; & 800/772-4231 or
with priv ate balconies for a lo w price. 915/772-4231): S ome r oadside motels
Add a pool and a central location that is surprise y ou with their attention to
handy but quiet, and y ou hav e a win- detail—this is definitely one of them.
ning combination. See p. 173. We like the eight Jacuzzi rooms, featur-
• Best Western S unset S uites—River- ing pictur e windo ws that separate the
walk (San Antonio; & 866/560-6000 tubs fr om the bedr ooms, and the spa-
or 210/223-4400): Low room rates, lots cious and amusingly decorated family
of free perks, and a convenient location suites. See p. 359.

4 T H E B E S T R E S TAU R A N T S
• The F rench R oom (D allas; & 214/ French cuisine and museum-quality
742-8200): This formal but not intimi- wines surr ounded b y a r ococo-painted
dating r estaurant in the historic A dol- ceiling, flo wing drapes, and cr ystal
phus H otel is dr eamy—like dining at chandeliers. See p. 94.
Versailles. I ndulge in superb classic
• Fearing’s (D allas; & 214/922-4848): boring steak and potatoes either. Mark’s 9
Legendary, co wboy boot–clad chef serves up dishes that satisfy while they
Dean F earing made his name as an fulfill our eternal quest for something
innovator of S outhwestern cuisine at new and cr eative. This is N ew Ameri-
the Mansion on Turtle Creek. At long can cooking as it should be. S ee
last, he has opened his own place within p. 182.
the swanky ne w Ritz-Carlton upto wn. • Cafe Annie (H ouston; & 713/840-
Named Esquire magazine’s New Restau- 1111): No other restaurant in Houston
rant of the Year in 2008, it may just be garners the attention that this place
the finest thing about one of the most does from foodies and food critics alike.
buzz-worthy ne w destinations in D al- With innovative Southwestern cooking,
las—something to see, and a place to be the best wine list in the city, and a mas-
seen. And the food? O utstanding. S ee ter sommelier (the only “ master” in

THE BEST OF TEXAS

p. 97. Texas), the restaurant has its credentials.
• Mansion R estaurant at R osewood Chef/owner R obert D el G rande offers
Mansion on Turtle C reek (D allas; up wonderful dishes that show just how
& 214/443-4747): After the departure fertile the crossbreeding of Mexican and
of its famous chef D ean F earing, a American cooking can be. See p. 189.
head-to-boot makeo ver, and a ne w • Le R êve (S an Antonio; & 210/212-
whopper of a name, the M ansion is 2221): R egularly designated the best
back, and maybe just better than ev er. restaurant in Texas, Le R êve never dis-
The tried-and-tr ue but a little tir ed appoints. Owner/chef Andr ew Weiss-
1
Southwestern menu was scrapped, man is exacting in the practice of his

T H E B E S T R E S TAU R A N T S
replaced b y a mor e cosmopolitan and craft and pr oduces a dining experience
sophisticated N ew American cuisine. that is close to being other worldly. See
The r estaurant is mor e contemporar y, p. 274.
relaxed, and inviting. See p. 97. • Uchi (A ustin; & 512/916-4808):
• 610 Grille (Fort Worth; & 817/332- Don’t think of this r estaurant as just a
0100): The cr eative N ew American good place for sushi and J apanese cui-
bistro fare at this swank restaurant, in a sine. It’s a great restaurant, period, with
boutique hotel of the same description, creative cooking that transcends its
quickly shot to the top of ev eryone’s humble roots. The setting, in a beauti-
best-of lists in F ort Worth. Hotel din- fully r evamped 1930s house, is tran-
ing is rar ely this good or this intimate. scendent, too. See p. 319.
See p. 137. • Café Central (E l P aso; & 915/545-
• Lanny’s Alta Cocina M exicana (F ort 2233): Well wor th the splurge, Café
Worth; & 817/850-9996): The great- Central is a sleek urban bistr o ser ving
grandson of the man behind F ort sophisticated international cuisine. The
Worth’s standar d for Tex-Mex, J oe T. menu changes daily, but always offers a
Garcia’s, has struck out on his own with wide range of standout far e—most
this sensational fine-dining take on notably creative Southwestern interpre-
Mediterranean cooking with M exican tations of traditional Continental
sensibilities. Sophisticated but unfussy , dishes. The wine list is one of the city ’s
it’s the place to dine in do wntown Fort best, and desserts include the best leches
Worth. See p. 137. (Mexican milk cakes) in all ofTexas. See
• Mark’s (H ouston; & 713/523-3800): p. 360.
No fussy French nouvelle here, and no
 10
5 THE BEST TEXAN DINING
• Sonny B ryan’s S mokehouse (D allas; from a Jaycees lodge. That’s kitschy cool
& 214/357-7120): Sonny Bryan’s has to some, meaningless to ev eryone else.
been turning out sw eet barbecue since What is important is the fantastic hick-
1910, and the little smoke shack has ory-smoked barbecue. See p. 138.
acquired legendar y status. S alesmen • Loma Linda (H ouston; & 713/924-
perch on their car hoods with their 6074): B ursting the bubble of a per-
sleeves r olled up and wolf do wn hick- fectly puffed tortilla smothered in chile
ory-smoked brisket, sliced-beef sand- con queso is the moment wher e antici-
wiches, and succulent onion rings. pation meets realization in the Tex-Mex
Thinner sor ts squeez e into tiny one- experience. The aroma, the texture, the
THE BEST OF TEXAS

armed school desks and get r eady to taste . . . words fail us. You can scour the
douse their brisket with superb , tangy borderlands a long time befor e coming
sauce. A classic. See p. 101. up with an old-fashioned Tex-Mex joint
• Bob’s S teak & Chop H ouse (D allas; like this one. The restaurant even has its
& 214/528-9446): Bob ’s will satisfy own special tor tilla maker for pr oduc-
the steak connoisseur—the real Texan— ing these puffed-up beauties. S ee
in y ou. With a clubb y but r elaxed p. 182.
mahogany look and behemoth w et- • Gaidos (Galveston; & 409/762-9625):
1 aged prime beef and sirloin filets, this is Offering traditional cooking as it is
a place for the J. R. cr owd. E ven the practiced on the Texas Gulf Coast, Gai-
THE BEST TEXAN DINING

accompaniments—“smashed” potatoes dos is the keeper of the flame for sea-

and honey-glaz ed whole carr ots—are food dev oid of fads and tr ends. The
terrific. And the meat-shy need not family has been serving up stuffed snap-
fear: The chophouse salad is a meal in per, gumbo, and fried o ysters for four
itself. Cigar aficionados should keep generations. See p. 220.
their noses trained for Bob ’s cigar din- • La Playa (Corpus Christi; & 361/980-
ners: Every course is ser ved with a dif- 3909): For a Tex-Mex restaurant to be
ferent cigar. See p. 97. considered tr uly gr eat, it must, of
• Lonesome Dove Western Bistro (Fort course, do a good job with the tradi-
Worth; & 817/740-8810): This tional enchiladas in chili gravy , hav e
friendly and eclectic r estaurant chal- excellent fajitas, and pay attention to
lenges Co wtown to br oaden its hori- the details in cooking the rice and
zons. The S outhwestern menu at this beans. It helps if it has a signatur e dish
Stockyards eater y successfully str etches or two. In this case, it ’s deep-fried av o-
the popular theme in new ways, adding cados. See p. 231.
unique Texas touches that ar e both • La P laya (P ort Aransas; & 361/749-
avant-garde and comforting. Pop in for 0022): This place is in no way con-
the inexpensiv e S tockyards lunch spe- nected to La P laya of Corpus Christi.
cial or div e into a blo wout dinner. See But the cooking is just as local, with
p. 134. Tex-Mex-style seafood dishes such as
• Angelo’s (F ort Worth; & 817/332- campechana cocktails and fish tacos.
0357): Fort Worth’s classic Texas barbe- The margaritas transcend cultur es. La
cue joint is as unpr etentious as they Playa has that hominess and welcoming
come: Its wood paneling, mounted deer feel that is as much Texas as anything
and buffalo heads, metal ceiling fans, else. See p. 240.
and F ormica tables might hav e come
• Mi Tierra (San Antonio; & 210/225- chicken enchiladas, o verflowing with 11
1262): Some people dismiss this cafe as fluffy meat and buried under chunky
touristy. Not so. It is the practitioner of green chile and jack cheese, appr oach
old S an Antonio cooking traditions. perfection. It doesn’t hurt that the salsa
Order any of the Tex-Mex specialties is spicy, the beer is cold, and the service
and sit back and enjo y the ambience— is quick and friendly , ev en when the
both the food and the decor are expres- place is filled to capacity—as it is most
sions of local tastes when celebrating is of the time. See p. 361.
called for. And trav elers may celebrate • Starlight Theatre ( Terlingua; & 432/
once they ’ve hit upon this gem. S ee 371-2326): A 1930s mo vie palace
p. 276. abandoned when the mines in Terlin-
• Shady G rove (A ustin; & 512/474- gua went bust in the follo wing decade,
9991): This is the most quintessentially the Starlight Theatre was r eborn as an

THE BEST OF TEXAS

Austin r estaurant in to wn. I t offers a eatery and watering hole in 1991. The
laid-back Texan menu, a huge outdoor stage is still her e, but the silv er scr een
patio, and an “unplugged” music series. takes a back seat to the food (especially
See p. 321. the trademark enchiladas, filet mignon,
• L&J Café (El Paso; & 915/566-8418): and sautéed chicken), drink (namely
An El Paso landmark since 1927, the L&J Texas beers and prickly pear margari-
is inexpensive and offers some of the best tas), and desserts (the cobbler for two is
Tex-Mex food y ou’ll find anywher e. The legendary). See p. 400.
1

T H E B E S T LO N E S TA R E X P E R I E N C E S
6 T H E B E S T LO N E S TA R E X P E R I E N C E S
• Hopping Aboard the Grapevine Vin- • Attending a M ariachi M ass at M is-
tage R ailroad: The O ld West comes sion San José: The Alamo may be more
alive aboar d the Tarantula Railr oad. A famous, but hearing a congr egation of
nostalgic train (when r unning, a San Antonians raise their voices in spir-
restored 1896 steam locomotiv e called ited pray er r eminds y ou that the city ’s
Puffy) r umbles along the track fr om Spanish missions ar en’t just, w ell, his-
Stockyards Station in Fort Worth, trac- tory. See p. 284.
ing the r oute of the Chisholm Trail, to • Tubing on the Riv er: In central Texas,
the Cotton B elt D epot in historic upstream from the town of Gruene, is a
Grapevine, Texas, a to wn with 75 stretch of the G uadalupe Riv er that
restored turn-of-the-20th-centur y Texans lo ve to float do wn “leisur ely
buildings. See p. 143. like” in tubes (one tube per person and
• Lassoing the F ort Worth Stock Show one for the ice chest). D uring the late
and R odeo: F ort Worth ain ’t called spring and early summer the air is hot,
Cowtown for nothing. I n late J anuary the water is cold, and the “tuber” (tube-
and early F ebruary, the S outhwestern potato?) finds life most agreeable. There
Exposition and Liv estock S how, as it ’s is no shor tage of outfitters who can set
officially called, r ecalls the glor y co w- you up with a tube. S ee p. 289.
boy days with horse sho ws, auctions, • Explore Tejas/Cross the Border: There
and livestock from beef cattle to llamas are nearly 800 miles of Texas-Mexico
and swine. The nightly r odeos ar e big border, and the Rio G rande fr om the
draws. See “Fort Worth,” in chapter 5. Gulf of Mexico to El Paso is a fascinat-
ing r egion. We ar e big fans of Ciudad
 12 Acuña, acr oss the riv er fr om D el Rio, thousands of species of plants and ani-
and the amazing cany ons in B ig B end mals—some seen practically no where
National Park, but the entir e “bor der- else on earth. A visit can include a hike
lands” r egion is mor e attractiv e and into the sun-baked desert, a float down
diverse than most visitors r ealize. S ee a majestic river through the canyons, or
chapters 10 and 11. a tr ek among high mountains wher e
• Exploring Big Bend National Park: Vast bears and mountain lions rule. See “Big
and wild, this r ugged terrain harbors Bend National Park,” in chapter 11.

7 THE BEST MUSEUMS

• Nasher Sculptur e Center (D allas): some of the world ’s most impor tant
THE BEST OF TEXAS

This world-class collection of modern traveling shows. See p. 145.

sculpture is in the do wntown D allas • Modern Ar t M useum of F ort Worth
Arts District. Ray Nasher and his wife, (Fort Worth): In a modernist building
Patsy, spent 4 decades assembling what designed b y J apanese ar chitect Tadao
has been called the finest private collec- Ando, the Modern—actually the oldest
tion in the world (it includes superlative art museum in Texas—is the nation ’s
works by Miró, David Smith, Brancuşi, second largest dedicated to contempo-
Moore, G iacometti, P icasso, M atisse, rary and modern ar t. The permanent
1 Calder, and many mor e). Designed by collection includes wor ks b y P icasso,
Renzo Piano, it has a gorgeous open-air Rothko, Warhol, Rauschenberg, and
THE BEST MUSEUMS

sculpture garden with landscape design Pollock. See p. 146.

by Peter Walker. See p. 105. • Amon Carter Museum of Western Art
• Meadows Museum of Ar t (Dallas): In (Fort Worth): This museum has one of
a building with plenty of room to show the finest collections of Western and
off the gr eatest collection of S panish American art in the countr y, including
masters outside S pain, the M eadows the most complete gr oup of wor ks b y
was built by a Dallas oilman fascinated Frederic R emington and Charles M.
by S panish ar t. The museum pr oudly Russell, two behemoths of Western art.
displays a wealth of works by Velázquez, It also possesses a gr eat photography
Goya, Ribera, Murillo, Zurbarán—just collection and impor tant paintings
about all the biggies from Spain’s golden by G eorgia O’K eeffe and others. S ee
era as w ell as the 20th-centur y masters p. 143.
Picasso, Dalí, and Miró. See p. 109. • Menil Collection (H ouston): O ne of
• Kimbell Ar t M useum (F ort Worth): the gr eat priv ate collections of the
Probably the countr y’s finest small world, it could very well have ended up
museum, this master work b y Louis in P aris or N ew York, but was gra-
Kahn is a joyous celebration of architec- ciously besto wed b y the collectors on
ture and a splendid collection of ar t to their adopted city . To experience the
boot. Kahn’s graceful building, a won- Menil is pur e delight; v ery little comes
der of technology and natural light, is between the vie wer and the ar t, which
now a chapter in ar chitectural studies includes wor ks b y many of the 20th-
worldwide. The small permanent col- century masters, classical wor ks fr om
lection ranges fr om pr ehistoric Asian the ancients, and tribal art from around
and pre-Columbian pieces to European the world. See p. 196.
old masters, I mpressionists, and mod- • Museum of F ine Ar ts, H ouston
ern geniuses. The Kimbell also gets (Houston): With the addition of the
 Audrey J ones B eck B uilding, this to visit, especially for fans of modern 13
museum has doubled its exhibition art, who will dev our its collection of
space and has put its collection of works b y the modern masters. S ee
Impressionist and bar oque ar t in the p. 283.
best possible light. The museum has • McDonald Observatory (northwest of
several satellite facilities and attracts Fort Davis): McDonald Observatory is
major touring exhibitions. See p. 194. considered one of the world’s best astro-
• The Center for the Ar ts & Sciences nomical research facilities. Twice a day
(Brazosport): The Center is one of visitors can glimpse sunspots, flar es,
those rar e entities that does a lot of and other solar activity. Nighttime “Star
things ex ceptionally w ell, including a Parties” are held 3 evenings a week, dur-
terrific natural histor y museum, a ing which visitors can vie w constella-
delightful small planetarium, an attrac- tions and celestial objects thr ough the

THE BEST OF TEXAS

tive art gallery, two theaters for a variety observatory’s high-po wered telescopes.
of performing arts events, and a natur e See p. 366.
trail. See p. 221. • Panhandle-Plains Historical Museum
• San Antonio M useum of Ar t (S an (Canyon): The largest histor y museum
Antonio): Almost as impr essive for its in Texas, this ex cellent museum is any-
architecture as for its holdings, this thing but a dusty collection of spurs
museum combines sev eral castlelike and bits. Well thought out, engaging,
buildings of the 1904 Lone S tar Brew- and informativ e, it is largely hands-
ery. The Nelson A. R ockefeller Center on—you can sit in a Ford Mustang and 1
for Latin American Ar t is the most listen to Buddy Holly tunes or try out a

THE BEST SHOPPING

comprehensive collection of its kind in sidesaddle. There ar e also compr ehen-
the United States. See p. 283. sive exhibits on the r egion’s histor y in
• Marion Koogler McNay Art Museum terms of petroleum, art, transportation,
(San Antonio): A beautiful collection Western heritage, and paleontology/
beautifully located and beautifully dis- geology. See p. 430.
played. This small museum is a delight

8 THE BEST SHOPPING

• Neiman M arcus (D allas): Established size). The graceful lay out outclasses its
in 1907, N eiman Marcus is intimately more garish competitors. R otating
identified with Big D and its shopahol- pieces fr om o wner Ray N asher’s spec-
ics. The luxury purveyor’s annual holi- tacular collection of modern sculptur e
day catalog, with his-and-her fantasies are on display throughout. See p. 116.
for the rich, has become an institution. • Stockyards National Historic District
The downtown store is classy and retro- (Fort Worth): In Cowtown, looking the
cool, the best place in N orth Texas to part is impor tant. P ick up Western
drape yourself in Prada and Chanel. See duds—suits and shirts with elegant pip-
p. 115. ing and embr oidered yokes that would
• NorthPark Center (D allas): D allas have made y ou a star in the O ld West,
loves to shop, and while there are more plus co wboy boots and other Western
malls than most people (ex cept D alla- paraphernalia—just steps away fr om
sites) know what to do with, NorthPark the old S tockyards liv estock pens. O n
is the most traditional and elegant (even the main drag is Maverick, which has
with a recent expansion that doubled its upscale Western wear and a bar ser ving
 14 up Lone Star longnecks. M. L. Leddy’s high-quality r eady-to-wear hats, too .
is a family-owned shop with a big boot See p. 291.
sign out fr ont and top-quality hats, • Capitol S addlery (A ustin): The cus-
hand-tooled belts, and custom-made tom-made boots of this classic thr ee-
boots. And just do wn the str eet, plunk level Western store near the capitol, run
down the cash for ex quisite custom by the same family for 7 decades, w ere
cowboy boots at Ponder B oot Com- immortalized in a song b y J erry J eff
pany. See “Fort Worth,” in chapter 5. Walker. Come her e for hand-tooled
• Uptown (H ouston): I n this r elatively saddles, belts, tack, and altogether
small district, y ou can find H ouston’s unyuppified cowboy gear. See p. 337.
Galleria (with over 300 retailers, includ- • Fredericksburg ( Texas H ill Countr y):
ing S aks, N eiman M arcus, Tiffany’s, It’s hard to say how a town founded by
and Versace) and four other malls front- German idealists ended up being a
THE BEST OF TEXAS

ing P ost O ak (with such r etailers as magnet for Texas materialists, but Fred-
Cartier and FAO Schwarz). See “Shop- ericksburg’s main str eet is chockablock
ping,” in chapter 6. with boutiques. This is the place to
• Paris H atters (S an Antonio): P ope come for everything from natural choc-
John P aul II, P rince Charles, J immy olate mint–scented r oom deodorizer to
Smits, and Dwight Yoakam have all had handmade dulcimers. See p. 341.
Western headgear made for them b y • El Paso Chile Company (El Paso): We
Paris H atters, in business since 1917 love this shop for its tongue-searing
1 and still o wned b y the same family . delicacies, with fier y names such as
About half of the sales ar e special “Hellfire & Damnation,” and all things
T H E B E S T P L AC E S F O R B O O T - S CO OT I N ’

order, but the shelv es are stocked with spicy. See p. 358.

9 T H E B E S T P L AC E S F O R B O O T - S CO OT I N ’
• Adair’s S aloon (D allas): D eep E llum’s dance floor for two-stepping, pr o bull
down-and-dirty honky-tonk is unfaz ed riding, and liv e per formances b y big
by the discos, r ock clubs, and pr eppy names in country music. And of course
SMU students in its midst. I t sticks to dance lessons: Shuffle and two-step like
its do wn-to-earth antistyle, knee-slap- a Texan after a fe w hours with instr uc-
ping countr y and r edneck r ock bands, tor Wendell Nelson. See p. 119.
cheap beer, and tables and walls blan- • Pearl’s D ancehall & S aloon (F ort
keted in graffiti. See p. 119. Worth): Perhaps a tad less do wn-and-
• Gilley’s D allas (D allas): G illey’s is dirty than when it was called B ig Balls
where J ohn Travolta r ode a bucking of Cowtown, Pearl’s is still a winner. In
bronco in Urban Co wboy, and no w the shado w of B illy Bob’s, it ’s an inti-
Big D has a branch of the famous mate spot for liv e Western swing and
Houston honky-tonk. I f bigger is honky-tonk and dance lessons ev ery
better, this one ’s right up ther e with Wednesday. See p. 153.
the best of them: It’s got 90,000 square • Blanco’s (H ouston): This is a genuine
feet of dance floor, bars, and stages. See honky-tonk wher e y ou go for music
p. 119. and dancing, and not for dressing up in
• Billy B ob’s Texas (F ort Worth): Kind Western duds. I t’s strictly come as y ou
of like a big-tent countr y theme par k, are, and this place attracts ’em fr om all
Billy Bob ’s has it all: 40 bars, a huge walks of life, fr om bankers to oil field
workers. The small v enue gets some of
 the best of Texas’s country music bands. and still one of the mello west places to 15
See p. 205. listen to music. Arkey B lue & The
• Floore’s Country Store (San Antonio): Silver Dollar Bar is a genuine spit-and-
Not much has changed since the 1940s sawdust co wboy honky-tonk on the
when this honky-tonk, boasting the Main S treet of B andera. When ther e’s
largest dance floor in S outh Texas (half no live music, plug a quar ter in the old
an acr e), opened up . Boots, hats, and jukebox and play a countr y ballad b y
antique farm equipment hang from the owner Ar key. And look for the table
ceiling of this typical Texas roadhouse. where H ank Williams, S r., car ved his
There’s always live music on w eekends; name. See “Hill Country Side Trips,” in
Willie Nelson, Dwight Yoakam, Robert chapters 8 and 9.
Earl K een, and L yle Lo vett hav e all • Broken S poke (A ustin): This is the
played here. See p. 293. gen-u-ine item, a Western honky-tonk

THE BEST OF TEXAS

• Texas Hill Country (San Antonio and with a wood-plank floor and a cowboy-
Austin): The Texas H ill Countr y has hatted, two-steppin’ crowd. Still, it’s in
some of the best honky-tonks in the Austin, so don’t be surprised if the band
state. I n G ruene, just outside of N ew wears Hawaiian shirts, or if tongues are
Braunfels, Gruene H all is the oldest planted firmly in cheeks for some songs.
country-and-western dance hall inTexas See p. 339.

1 0 T H E B E S T O F N AT U R A L T E X A S 1

T H E B E S T O F N AT U R A L T E X A S
• Dallas Arbor etum & B otanical G ar- Texas. E xplore the ar ea on foot or in
den: Who knew Dallas had mor e than canoe, and see ho w the woods gr ow so
dust, concr ete, steel, and glass? This thickly her e that they all but blot out
surprising oasis on the edge of White the sun, and make trailblazing almost
Rock Lake is a gr eat spot to duck the impossible. S ee “S ide Trips to East
Texas sun. Relax on 70 acres of groomed Texas,” in chapter 6.
gardens and natural woodlands, inter- • Aransas N ational Wildlife R efuge: A
spersed with a handful of historic mecca for bir ders, with some 300 spe-
homes. The gar dens ar e especially col- cies sighted her e, the r efuge is also
orful in spring and fall. S ee p. 106. home to snakes, tur tles, lizar ds, mam-
• Fort Worth Botanic & J apanese Gar- mals, and a v ariety of fr ogs and other
dens: A rambling, spacious showcase of amphibians. Aransas has become
2,500 native and exotic species of plants famous for being the main winter home
on 100-plus acr es, this is the oldest of the near-extinct whooping crane, the
botanical garden in Texas, created back tallest bir d in America—5 feet high
in the late 1920s. The Texas Rose Gar- with an 8-foot wingspan. S ee “R ock-
den, 3,500 r oses that bloom in late port,” in chapter 7.
April and O ctober, and the beautiful • Mustang Island State Park: This bar-
Japanese G arden ar e terrific places to rier island has mor e than 5 miles of
hide out from the world. Bring a picnic, wide, sandy beach, with fine sand, fe w
a book, and a flying disk. S ee p. 144. rocks, and br oken shells, and almost
• Big Thicket National Preserve: It has enough wav es for sur fing. The par k is
been called “ the American Ar k” for its one of the most popular of Texas state
incredibly rich v ariety of plants and parks, and is especially busy on summer
wildlife, all packed into 100,000 acr es weekends. See “Port Aransas,” in chap-
of water y bottomland in deepest East ter 7.
 16 • Lady B ird J ohnson Wildflower Cen- “Guadalupe Mountains National Park,”
ter: F ew people r emember that Lady in chapter 11.
Bird J ohnson star ted a pr ogram to • Palo D uro C anyon S tate P ark: This
beautify America ’s highways—and she 60-mile canyon, sculpted by the Prairie
began practicing it in her home state. Dog Town Fork of the R ed River over
This flower-powered research center is a the past 90 million y ears, is a grand
natural outgr owth of this first lady ’s contrast to the ubiquitous, tr eeless
lifelong efforts to beautify the state. See plains of the Texas Panhandle. Its 800-
p. 329. foot cliffs, striped with orange, red, and
• McKittrick C anyon: The cany on is white r ock and adorned b y gr oves of
forested with conifers and deciduous juniper and cottonwood tr ees, pr esent
trees. In autumn, the maples, oaks, and an astoundingly stark beauty. See “Can-
other hardwoods burst into color, paint- yon & P alo Duro Canyon State Park,”
THE BEST OF TEXAS

ing the world in bright colors set off b y in chapter 12.

the rich v ariety of the ev ergreens. S ee

1 1 T H E B E S T H I S T O R I C A L AT T R AC T I O N S
• The S ixth F loor M useum at D ealey and the site of the city ’s most famous
Plaza (Dallas): The events of November gunfight in 1897—and check in at the
1 22, 1963, shook the world. J ohn F . historic Stockyards Hotel. Finally, check
Kennedy’s assassination in D allas is out the “longhorn cattle driv e” that
T H E B E S T H I S T O R I C A L AT T R AC T I O N S

remembered by everyone old enough to rumbles do wn E xchange A venue

remember, and argued o ver still. Visi- daily—or take the Vintage Train into
tors can tour the sixth floor of the Texas Grapevine. See “Fort Worth,” in chap-
School Book D epository, fr om wher e ter 5.
the Warren Commission concluded • San J acinto M onument (H ouston):
that a single sniper, Lee Harvey Oswald, Here on the battlefield of San Jacinto, a
felled the pr esident. The museum also small army of Texans led b y G eneral
examines the life, times, and legacy of Sam Houston charged the much larger,
the K ennedy pr esidency, making it a better equipped M exican army and
place to r evisit not only the tragic epi- dealt them a crushing blow. The victory
sode but also an era. S ee p. 103. gave Texas its independence. A monu-
• The S tockyards N ational H istoric ment and museum occupy the battle-
District (Fort Worth): Still looking the field to honor and explain the histor y
part, this ar ea north of do wntown was of the battle and its significance. S ee
once the biggest and busiest cattle, p. 191.
horse, mule, hog, and sheep mar keting • USS Lexington M useum on the B ay
center in the S outhwest. P ut on y our (Corpus Christi): E xploring this huge
boots and best Western shir t and tour World War II–era air craft carrier offers
the Livestock Exchange Building; Cow- non-naval persons the oppor tunity to
town Coliseum (the world’s first indoor get an idea of what it was like to live for
rodeo ar ena); former hog and sheep sometimes months in the claustr opho-
pens now filled with Western shops and bic conditions of such a limited area. In
restaurants; and B illy Bob ’s Texas, the addition to sleeping, dining, and cook-
“world’s largest honky-tonk.” Then grab ing areas, the ship provided a hospital, a
a longneck at the White E lephant rec r oom, and, of course, numer ous
saloon—the oldest bar in F ort Worth necessary working areas. See p. 228.
• The Alamo (San Antonio): I t’s smaller • New Braunfels: Trying to decide which 17
than y ou might expect, and it sits of the H ill Countr y towns is the most
smack in the hear t of do wntown S an representative of the area’s rich German
Antonio; but the graceful mission heritage is tough, but the gemütlich
church that ’s come to symboliz e the inns, histor y-oriented museums, and
state is a must-see, if only to learn what sausage-rich r estaurants—not to men-
the fuss is all about. S ee p. 281. tion the major celebration of O ktober-
• San Antonio M issions National H is- fest—make New Braunfels a standout.
torical P ark: I t’s impossible not to See “Hill Country Side Trips from Aus-
remember the Alamo when y ou’re in tin,” in chapter 9.
San Antonio; mor e difficult to r ecall is • El Paso M ission Trail: Established in
that the Alamo was originally just the the 17th and 18th centuries, these three
first of fiv e missions established b y the historic Spanish missions provide a link

THE BEST OF TEXAS

Franciscans along the S an Antonio to E l P aso’s colonial past. They ar e
River. E xploring these four missions, among the oldest continually activ e
built uncharacteristically close to each missions in the countr y, and warrant a
other, will giv e y ou a glimpse of the visit for their ar chitectural and historic
city’s early S panish and I ndian histor y. merit. Especially impressive is the large
See p. 284. Presidio Chapel S an Elceario, near the
• State C apitol (A ustin): The countr y’s site of “The First Thanksgiving,” said to
largest state capitol, second only in siz e have taken place in 1598, 23 y ears
to the U.S. Capitol—but 7 feet taller— before the Plymouth Thanksgiving. See
1
underwent a massiv e r enovation and p. 353.

T H E B E S T FA M I LY A D V E N T U R E S
expansion in the 1990s, which left it
more impressive than ever. See p. 328.

1 2 T H E B E S T FA M I LY A D V E N T U R E S
• Old City Park (Dallas): Modern Dallas 19th-century duds. They’ll also lo ve to
gleams with skyscrapers and a lo ve for find their way ar ound the Cowtown
newness, but its Western heritage liv es Cattlepen Maze, a human maz e made
on museum-like in this facsimile of the to look like old cattle pens. S ee “F ort
Old West, a 13-acr e par k of historic Worth,” in chapter 5.
buildings. M ounted like a late-19th- • Fort Worth’s Childr en’s M useums
century village, it has a r edbrick Main (Fort Worth): The Fort Worth Museum
Street, Victorian homes, train depot, of Science and H istory is large and
general store, one-room church, school- multifaceted, with a domed IMAX the-
house, and bank. The “Living F arm- ater, a planetarium, and great hands-on
stead” re-creates a 19th-centur y prairie science displays. The National Cowgirl
with actors in period garb. See p. 110. Museum and H all of F ame teaches
• The Stockyards (Fort Worth): Far from little co wgirls and co wboys about pio-
a dr y old historic district, the S tock- neering women of the American West,
yards come aliv e with the flav or of the but in a way that r eally brings the cul-
Old West. Kids will ador e the twice- ture to life: J ukeboxes pump out coun-
daily “ cattle driv e” of the F ort Worth try tunes, and kids can ride a simulated
Herd, which rumbles down the cobbled bucking br onco, see the film of their
main drag, led b y co whands in adventure on the museum ’s w ebsite,
 18 and get their pictur es superimposed on • Six F lags F iesta Texas (S an Antonio):
Old West film posters. And the Fort Major thrill rides, a huge swimming
Worth Z oo is one of the best in the pool shaped like Texas, and enter tain-
country. See “Fort Worth,” in chapter 5. ment/food ar eas with Texas histor y
• Arlington: Sandwiched between Dallas themes—there’s something for ev ery
and F ort Worth is a kids ’ suburban family member at this theme par k,
dream world: S tumble fr om the r oller and it ’s ev en slightly educational. S ee
coasters at S ix Flags Over Texas to the p. 285.
water slides at H urricane H arbor, visit • The Austin Bats: Most adults and kids
Ripley’s Believe It or Not and the Palace tend to finds bats a bit cr eepy—until
of Wax, and pay y our respects to base- they learn mor e about them, that is.
ball’s greats at the Legends of the Game From M arch to N ovember, y ou can
Baseball Museum at the Rangers B all- watch thousands of bats emerge in
THE BEST OF TEXAS

park in Arlington. S ee “Arlington,” in smoky clouds from under the Congress

chapter 5. Avenue Bridge, and find out why A us-
• Space Center H ouston (H ouston): tinites adore the little critters. See “See-
Always the most popular attraction in ing the Sights,” in chapter 9.
the city, NASA’s Space Center Houston • Balmorhea State Park: This is one of
is a joint effort powered by NASA tech- the crown jewels of the Texas state parks
nology and Disney know-how. It is the and also one of the smallest, at 45
epitome of interactiv e display and sim- acres. The main attraction is the mas-
1 ulation that manages to fascinate both sive, 1 3/4-acre swimming pool—3.5
kids and par ents. D uring y our visit, million gallons of water at a fairly con-
THE BEST OF TEXAS ONLINE

check out what’s going on at the J ohn- stant 74°F (23°C). N ot y our usual
son Space Center thr ough a tram ride swimming pool, it’s teeming with small
and video feeds. See p. 192. fish and laden with r ocks. Swimming,
• The Gulf Side of South Padre Island: snorkeling, and scuba diving ar e all
Fine white sand and warm water lap- popular. A t a r econstructed cienega
ping at y our toes—what mor e do y ou (desert w etland) y ou may spot nativ e
want? Although the shor e is lined with wildlife such as a Texas spiny soft-shell
hotels and condos, the beaches are pub- turtle, a blotched water snake, or a
lic and open to ev eryone. S ee “P adre green heron. See “Small Towns of Cen-
Island N ational S eashore,” in chap- tral West Texas,” in chapter 10.
ter 7.

13 THE BEST OF TEXAS ONLINE

• The Handbook of Texas Online (www. characters who left their mar k on Texas
tsha.utexas.edu/handbook/online): The history.
Handbook is an ency clopedia offering • Texas D epartment of Transportation
concise entries that explain who ’s who, (www.traveltex.com): The state’s official
what’s what, and where’s where in Texas. tourism w ebsite is practically the only
It’s easy to use and has information site you’ll need to type in—ev erything
on just about ev erything, fr om the else will be a link. We especially like the
locations of to wns and counties to section that offers easily printable dis-
explanations of some of the state ’s leg- count coupons, primarily for lodging
ends, to biographical data on the many and attractions.
• Texas O utside (www .texasoutside. • MySanAntonio.com: The w ebsite of 19
com): This is a gr eat resource for plan- the city ’s only mainstr eam ne wspaper,
ning outdoor activities for just about the San Antonio Express-News, not only
anywhere in the state. I t br eaks Texas provides the daily ne ws, but also links
down into differ ent r egions and has to local businesses such as dr y cleaners
separate pages for Texas’s largest cities. and florists (via its Power Pages) and to
You’ll find maps and information on all movie, nightlife, and dining listings and
sorts of outdoor spor ts, such as hiking, reviews.
hunting, fishing, biking, and canoeing. • Austin 360 (www .austin360.com):
• Dallas–Fort Worth Area Official Visi- Movie times, traffic r eports, restaurant
tors’ W ebsite (www .dfwandbeyond. picks, homes, jobs, cars. . . . This site,
com): For purely practical matters, this sponsored in par t by the Austin-Ameri-
frighteningly bur eaucratic-sounding can Statesman, the city ’s main ne wspa-

THE BEST OF TEXAS

address gives you the lo wdown on ar ea per, is a one-stop clicking center for a
events and even allows you to download variety of essentials. It’s easy to navigate,
coupons good for saving a fe w bucks at too.
museums, theme parks, and other local • Texas fun: We all kno w the I nternet’s
attractions. best for pur ely personal and marginal
• Guidelive.com: The entertainment interests, so once you’re done with your
Web page of the Dallas Morning News, trip planning, check out www.texas
North Texas’s major ne wspaper, con- cooking.com for authentic Texas cook-
tains the most current events listings, as ing, including r ecipes and discussions
1
well as r estaurant, mo vie, music, and of mysteries such as the Texas fruitcake

THE BEST OF TEXAS ONLINE

show reviews for both D allas and F ort subculture conspiracy.
Worth. It even has a shopping blog that
promises the inside guide to the best
local finds and deals.
Exploring the Variety of Random
Documents with Different Content
 631 CHAPTER XVI. THE WESTERN CALIPHATE. I. SPECIAL
BIBLIOGRAPHIES. Brockelmann, C. Geschichte der arabischen
Litteratur. 2 vols. Weimar. 1898. Casiri, M. Bibliotheca arabico-
hispana Escurialensis. 2 vols. Madrid. 1760. Derenbourg, H. Les
manuscrits arabes de rEscurial. Paris. 1884. Dozy, R. Notice sur
quelques manuscrits arabes. Leyden. 1847. Guillen Robles, F.
Catalogo de los manuscritos arabes existentes en la Biblioteca
Nacional de Madrid. Madrid. 1889. Haji Khalifa. Lexicon
bibliographicum et encyclopaedicum. Ed. FKigel. 7 vols. Leipsic and
London. 1835-58. Pons Boigues, F. Ensayo bio-bibliografico sobre los
historiadores y geografos arabigo-espanoles. Madrid. 1898. Dos
obras importantisimas de Aben Hazam [Ibn Hazm]. In Homenaje a
Menendez Pelayo. Vol. i, p. 509. Madrid. 1899. Ribera, J. y Asin, M.
Manuscritos arabes y aljamiados de la Biblioteca de la Junta para
ampliacion de estudios e investigaciones cientificas. (Bibl. J. amp.
estud.) Madrid. 1912. Wustenfeld, F. Die Geschichtsschreiber der
Araber und ihre Werke. Gottingen. 1882. II. MANUSCRIPTS. 'Abd-
AUab ibn 'Abd-al- Wahid al-Fihri of Alpuente. Formulary of notarial
acts. MS 11. Bibl. J. amp. estud. See above, i. ^Ali ibn Yahya ibn al-
Kasim. Formulary of notarial acts. MS 5. Bibl. J. amp. estud. See
above, i. Ibn Hayyan. Kitab al-muqtabis fi akhbar al-Andalus. Arabic
MS 592 of the Bib. Nac. of Madrid, Oxford, Cat. ii, 137 and R. Acad,
de la Hist, of Madrid. Ibn al-Khatlb. Ihata. MS 1673 of El Escorial
(1668 Cat. Casiri), 27-38 of Bib. Nac. Madrid and of R. Acad, de la
Historia. Al-Khushanl. History of the kadis of Cordova. MS of Bodl.
Oxford, ii, 2582. Ed. Ribera, J., in Centro de Estudios historicos,
Madrid. 1914. III. ORIGINAL AUTHORITIES. 1. Arabs. Ibn 'Abd-al-
Hakam. History of the conquest of Spain. Arabic text and transl.
Jones, J. H. London. 1858. Spanish transl. in Akhbar majmu'a. Ibn
Adarl [Ibn al-*Idhari]. Historias de Al-Andalus. Transl. Fernandez y
Gonzalez, F.' Granada. 1862. Al-Bayano-1-Mogrib. Ed. Dozy, R.
Leyden. 1848-51. Transl. Fagnan, E. Argel. 1901-4. Akhbar
Majmu^a. Cronica anonima del siglo xi. Transl. and annotated
Lafuente Alcantara, E. Madrid. 1867.
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Historia de la conquista de Espana. Transl. Gonzalez, J. Argel. 1889.
Ibn al-Athlr. Chronicon quod Perfectissimum inscribitur ad fidem
codicum Berolinensis, Musei Britannic! et Parisinorum. Ed. Tornberg,
C. J. 14 vols. Leyden. 1867-76. Ibn Batuta. Voyages de Ibn
Batoutah. Texte arabe et traduction par Defremery et Sanguinetti^.
Paris. 1853. Bibliotheca arabico-hispana. Ed. Codera and Ribera.
Madrid-Saragossa. 1883-95. 10 vols. i-ii. Aben Pascualis Assila. (Diet,
biograpbicum.) 1883. III. Adh-Dhabbl. Desiderium quaerentis
historiam virorum populi Andalusiae. (Diet, biograpbicum.) 1885. IV.
Aben Al-Abbar [Ibn al-Abbar]. Almoeham. 1886. v-vi. Aben Al-Abbar.
Teemila. Complementum libri Assilab. 1887-9. vii-viii. Aben Alfaradhl.
Hist, virorum doctorum Andalusiae. 1891. ix-x. Abu Bequer ben
Khair. Index librorum de diversis scientiarum ordinibus. Saragossa.
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hist, of religions, sects and schools. 5 vols. Cairo. 1321 beg. Idrisi.
Description de I'Afrique et de I'Espagne par Edrisi. Ed. Dozy, R. and
de Goeje, M. Leyden. 1866. Spanish transl. Blazquez, A. Madrid.
1901. Ibn Khaldun, Les prolegomenes de. French transl. and notes,
De Slane. 3 vols. Paris. 1863-8. Histoire des Berberes et des
dynasties musulmans de I'Afrique septentrionale. De Slane. Algiers.
1852-6. Ibn Khallikan. Ibn Challikan vitae illustrium virorum nunc
primum arabice edidit. Wustenfeld, F. Gottingen. 1835-43. Also
edited by De Slane. Vies des hommes illustres de I'lslamisme en
arabe par ibn Khallikan. Paris. 1838-42. [Incomplete.] English transl.,
De Slane. Biographical dictionary. ParisLondon. 1843-71. Ibn al-
Kutlya. Hist, de la conquete de I'Espagne par les Musulmans. Trad.
Cherbonneau, A. J A. 5th series, viii, n. 32. 1856. Al-Makkarl. The
history of the Mohammedan dynasties in Spain. Transl. with critical
notes, De Gayangos, P. London. 1840-3. Analectes sur I'histoire et la
litterature des Arabes de I'Espagne. Arabic text. Ed. Dozy, Dugat,
Krehl and Wright. 2 vols. Leyden. 1855-61. An-Nuwairl. Historia de
los musulmanes de Espana y Africa. Texto arabe y trad. espanola.
Gaspar Remiro, M. Granada. 1917-19. Roudh el-Kai-tas [Raud al-
I^irtas]. Hist, des souverains du Maghreb (Espagne et Maroc) et
Annales de la ville de Fes. Trad. Beaumier, A. Paris. 1860. (Pub.
Ministere des Affaires etrangeres.) Ash-Shahrastani. Book of
Religions and philosophical Sects. Ed. Cureton, W. 2 vols. London.
1842. Teemila [Takmila]. Apendice a la ed. Codera de la ^' Teemila"
de Ibn Al-Abbar. Ed. Alarcdn, M. and Paleneia, A. Gonzalez. Madrid.
1915. Jacut [Yakut]. Geographisches Worterbuch. Ed. Wustenfeld, F.
Leipsic. 1866. Dictionary of learned men. Ed. Margoliouth. 2 vols.
Leipsic-London. 1907. 2. Latin. Alvaro of Cordova. Opera. MPL, cxxi.
Paris. 1852. Anales Compostelanos. In Espana Sagrada, xxm.
Anonimo latino. In Esp. Sagr. viii. Ed. Tailhan, P. L'Anonyme de
Cordoue. Paris. 1885. (Attributed to Pacense.) Bofarull (P. y F.).
Coleccion de documentos ineditos del Arehivo general de la Corona
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 Bibliography, Chapter XFI 633 Caetani, L. Chronographia
islamica. Paris. 1912. (In prog.) Annali deir Islam. Milan. 1906 if. (In
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Burgense. Esp. Sagr. xxiii. Cronicon Conimbricense. Esp. Sagr. xxiii.
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libris absoluta. Lugduni Batavorum. 1632. Lucas Tudensis. Chronicon
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scriptores varii, vol. 4. Frankfort. 1603-8. Pelayo. Chronicon Regum
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civilizacion espanola. 4 vols. 2nd edn. Barcelona. 1911. De Boer, T. J.
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arabigo-espanolas. Madrid. 1861. Codera y Zaidin, F. Tratado de
Numismatica arabigo-espanola. Madrid. 1879. (^'ecas arabigo-
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on numismatic and epigraphic topics in BRAH. Paleografia arabe.
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en la R. Ac. Espanola. Madrid. 1910. Derenbourg, H. La science des
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Musulmans d'Espagne jusqu'a la conquete de I'Andalousie, par les
Almohades. 4 vols. Leyden. 1861. Spanish transl. de Castro, F. [Poor]
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 634 . The Western Caliphate Dozy, R. Lettre a M, Fleischer
sur le texte d'Al-Makkari. Leyden. 1871. Dugat, G. Hist, des
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philosophic musulmane. Paris. 1900. De Goeje, M. Descriptio Al-
Magribi sumpta ex libro regionum Al-Jacubi. Lugduni Batavorum.
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philosophischen Systeme der spekulativen Theologen im Islam.
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de reduccion del computo musulman al cristiano y viceversa. Madrid.
1903. Lamperez, V. Hist, de la Arquitectura cristiana espanola en la
£dad Media. 2 vols. Madrid. 1908. Lavoix, E. Catalogue des
monnaies musulmans de la Bibliotheque National. Paris. 1891.
Leclerc, L. Hist, de la Medecine arahe. Paris. 1876. Macdonald, B. D.
Development of Muslim Theology, Jurisprudence and Constitutional
Theory. New York. 1903. Muslim Jurisprudence. Hartford. 1900. The
religious attitude and life in Islam. Chicago. 1909. Marcel, J.
Paleographie arahe. Paris. 1828. Menendez Pelayo, M. Hist, de los
heterodoxos espaiioles. Vol. i. Madrid. 1880. Munk, S. Melanges de
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Manuel d'art musulman. Paris. 1902. Sawas Pacha. JEtude sur la
theorie du droit musulman. 2nd edn. Paris. 1902. Schmolders, A.
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Seybold, C. F. Zur spanisch-arabischeu Geographic. Halle. 1906.
Simonet, F. Hist, de los mozarabes de Espaiia. Madrid. 1903. Glosario
de voces ibericas y latinas usadas entre los mozarabes. Madrid.
1888. Sprenger, A. A Dictionary of the technical terms used in the
sciences of the Musulmans. Bengala. 1854. Van Vloten, G.
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messianiques sous le Khalifat des Omayades. Amsterdam. 1894.
Vives, A. Monedas de las dinastias arabigo-espanolas. Madrid. 1893.
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Rios, R. Inscripciones arabes de Cordoba. Madrid. 1871. Asin
Palacios, M. La indiferencia religiosa de la Espana musulmana segun
Abenhazam. ('ultura Espanola. Madrid. 1907. Abenmasarra y su
escuela. Madrid. 1914. La escatologia musulmana en la Divina
Comedia. Madrid. 1919. Investigacion de los origenes del
pensamiento extra-religioso y heterodoxo en la Hist, critica de los
religiones de Abenhazam el Cordobes. (In progress.) BofaruU, P. Los
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valencianos. BRAH, xviii.
 Bibliography, Chapter XVI 635 Codera y Zaidin, F. Estudios
criticos de Hist, arabe espanola. Saragossa. 1903. Madrid. 1917.
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arcodeherradura. Cultura espanola. 1906. Iglesias mozarabes. Arte
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musulmanes espanoles. Saragossa. 1893. Bibliofilos y bibliotecas en
la Espana musulmana. 2nd edn. Saragossa. 1896. Origenes del
Justicia mayor de Aragon. Saragossa. 1897. Coleccidn de estudios
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R.Ac.Esp. 1912. [La epica entre los musulmanes espanoles.]
Discurso en la R.Ac. Hist. Madrid. 1915. Saavedra, E. La mujer
mozarabe. Conferencia. Madrid. 1904. Estudio sobre la invasion de
los arabes en Espana. Madrid. 1892. Pelayo. Conferencia. Madrid.
1906. Abderrahmen I. Monografia histdrica. Revista de Archivos,
Bibliotecas y Museos. Madrid. 1910. La batalla de Calatanazor.
Melanges Hart wig Derenbourg, p. 335. Paris. 1909. Urena, R. La
influencia semita en el derecho medieval de Espana. Madrid. 1898.
Familias de jurisconsultos : Los Benimajlad de Cdrdoba. Homenaje a
Codera, p. 251. Velazquez Bosco, R. La Arquitectura de la Edad
Media en Europa. Madrid. 1894. Medina Azzahra y Alamiriya. Madrid.
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 636 CHAPTER XVII. THE CHURCH FROM CHARLEMAGNE
TO SYLVESTER IL I. DOCUMENTS AND SOURCES. (a) Councils.
Concilia aevi Karolini. Ed. WerminghoiF, A. (Vol. i to 842 alone
published.) MGH. Leges. Sect. in. Concilia ii, 1. 1906-8. Mansi. xiv-
xix. See Gen. Bibl. iv. (6) Papal Letters. Calendars: JafFe, P. Regesta.
See Gen. Bibl. iv. New edn. Wattenbach. Vol. i. Leipsic. 1887. Kehr, P.
F. Regesta pontificum Romanorum. See Gen. Bibl. iv. Editions : MGH.
Epistolae V and seq. (Epistolae Karolini aevi. Vol. in and seq. )
Corresp. of Nicholas I. Vol. vi (iv), pt 2, fasc. i. Ed. Perels. 1912.
Corresp. John Vlll. Vol. VII (v), pt 1. Ed. Caspar, E. 1912. See Gen.
Bibl. iv. MPL. Parts of 102-142. (c) Papal Decretals. Burchard of
Worms. Decretum. MPL. 140. See Gen. Bibl. iv. Decretales Pseudo-
Isidorianae et Capitula Angilramni. Ed. Hinschius, P. See €ren. Bibl.
IV. (d) Capitularies. Capitularia regum francorum. Ed. Boretius and
Krause. MGH. Leges. Sect. II, 1, 2. See Gen. Bibl. iv. (e) Letters of
Prelates. MGH. Epist. Karolini aevi, ut .mp. MPL, ut sup. Bouquet, vi-
xi. See Gen. Bibl. iv. (/) Canonical and Polemical Treatises. (Among
others especially) Agobard. MPL. 104. See Gen. Bibl. iv. Hincmar.
Ibid. 125-126. {g) Chronicles {specially bearing on Papal History).
Duchesne, Liber pontificalis. See Gen. Bibl. iv. Watterich, J. M.
Pontificum romanorum... vitae. See Gen. Bibl. iv. (Extracts from
chronicles etc. Convenient, though incomplete, handbook if checked
by later edns. of texts cited.)
 Bibliography, Chapter XVII 637 II. MODERN WORKS. (a)
General. {See also Gen. Bihl. v for Church Histories.) Duchesne, L.
Les premiers temps de I'Etat pontifical. 3rd edn. Paris. 1911.
Gregorovius, F. Stadt Rom. See Gen. Bibl. v. Hartmann, L. M. Gesch.
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See ib. Hefele, C. J. Hist, des couciles, transl. Leclercq. See ib. Vol.
iv, 1, 2. (Contains full bibliographical notes.) Hinschius, P. Das
Kirchenrecht der Katholiker und Protestanten in Deutschland. 6 vols.
Berlin. 1869-97. Kleinclausz, A. L' empire carolingien, ses origines et
ses transformations. Paris. 1902. Lilienfein, H. Die Anschauungen
von Staat und Kirche im Reich der Karolinger. Heidelberg. 1902.
(Heidelberger Abhandlungen zur mittleren und neueren Gesch ichte,
i.) Luchaire, A. Les premiers Capetiens. Lavisse, Hist, de France, ii, 2.
See Gen. Bibl. V. (Specially for the Peace and Truce of God.)
Romano, G. Le dominazioni barbariche in Italia, 395-1024. See Gen.
Bibl. v. Werminghoff, A. Kirchenverfassung Deutschlands. See Gen.
Bibl. v. Vol. i. Verfassungsgeschichte der deutschen Kirche im
Mittelalter. 2nd edn. Leipsic and Berlin. 1913. (Meister's Grundriss.
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information.) (6) Monographs. Bourgeois, E. Le capitulaire de Kiersy-
sur-Oise (877). Etude sur I'etat et le regime politique a la fin du ix^
siecle d'apres la legislation de Charles le Chauve. Paris. 1885.
Calmette, J. La diplomatic carolingienne du traite de Verdun a la
mort de Charles le Chauve. (843-877.) Paris. 1901. BHE. 135.
Davenport, E. H. The False Decretals. Oxford. 1916. Dummler, E.
Gesch. des ostfrankischen Reichs. 2nd edn. 3 vols. Leipsic. 1887-8.
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1908. Ebers, G. J. Das Devolutionsrecht vornehmlich nach
katholischem Kirchenrecht. Stuttgart. 1906. (Kirchenrechtliche Abb.
VoL 37.) Fournier, P. Etude sur les Fausses De'cr^tales. RHE. vii.
1906. 1-4 et viii. 1907. 1. (Indicates principal authorities on the False
Decretals up to 1906.) Greinacher, A. Die Anschauungen des Papstes
Nikolaus I iiber das Verhaltnis von Staat und Kirche. Berlin. 1909.
Himly, A. Wala et Louis le D^bonnaire. Paris. 1849. Huberti, L.
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Tour, P. Les elections ^piscopales dans I'Eglise de France du ix* au
XII* siecle. Paris. 1890. Les paroisses rurales dans I'ancienne France
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 638 l^he Church Koenig-er, M. Burchard I von Worms und
die deutsche Kirche seiner Zeit. Munich. 1905. Lapotre, A. L' Europe
et le Saint-Siege k I'epoque carolingienne. Vol. i (no more pub.) : Le
pape Jean Vlll. Paris. 1899. De Anastasio bibliothecario. Paris. 1889.
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x® siecle. Paris. 1903. BHE. 147. La question des Fausses
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regne de Charles le Chauve. Vol. i (no more pub.). Paris. 1909. BHE.
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1038. Paris. 1907. (For the hist, of the Peace and Truce of God in
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 639 CHAPTER XVIII. FEUDALISM. I. EDITIONS OF
SOURCES. Assises de Jerusalem. Ed. Beugnot, A. A. Rec. des hist,
des croisades, Lois. Vols. 1, 2. AcadlBL. 1841-2. Beaumanoir, Ph. de
Remi, Sieur de. Coutumes de Beauvaisis. Ed. Salmon. 1899-1900.
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Industry and Commerce during the Early and Middle Ages. 4th edn.
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edn. 1896. Vols, i and ii. See Gen. Bihl. v. Vinogradoff, P. The Growth
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2. On France and Neighbourlands. Brissaudj J. B. M. F. Cours
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I. SOURCES. For texts of authors alluded to the main sources are :
MPL. See Gen. Bihl. iv. MGH. Poetae Latini aevi Carolini i-iv, 1. Edd.
Diimmler, Traube, v. Winterfeld. See Gen. Bihl. iv. Monumenta
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Douglas Bruce, J. Atkinson, R. The Passions and Homilies from
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Dictionnaire raisonne de 1' Architecture fran^aise du xi^ au xvi« s.
Paris. 1858-68. Index, Sabine, H. 1889. Warner, G. F. and Wilson, H.
A. The Benedictional of Saint Aethelwold, Bishop of Winchester 963-
984. (The Roxburghe Club.) Oxford. 1910. Wilpert, J. Die romische
Mosaiken u. Malereien der kirchlichen Bauten v. 4 bis 13 Jhdt. 2nd
edn. 4 vols. Freiburg-im-Breisgau. 1917. WulflF, O. Altchristliche u.
byzantinische Kunst. i. Berlin-Neubabelsberg. 1918. Zimmermann, E.
H. Die Buchmalerei in karolingischer u. ottonischer Zeit. (K.K.
Zentral-Kommission f. Kunst- u. historisch. Denkmale.) Vienna. 1910.
 646 CHRONOLOGICAL TABLE OF LEADING EVENTS
MENTIONED IN THIS VOLUME 463 Death of St Patrick, c. 490-583
Cassiodorus. 576-636 Isidore of Seville. 594 Death of Gregory of
Tours. 597 Death of Columba. Augustine's mission in Kent. 604
Death of St Gregory the Great. 615 Death of Columban. 690 Death
of Benedict Biscop. 704 Death of Adamnan. 709 Death of Aldhelm.
732 Victory of Charles Martel over the Saracens at Poitiers. 735
Death of Bede (most probable date). 756 ^Abd-ar-Rahman ibn
Mu'awiya, emir of Spain. c. 787 First landing of the Vikings in
England. 796 Death of OfFa of Mercia. c. 800 The invasions of the
Northmen begin. 802-825 The Northmen establish themselves in
Ireland. 802-839 Reign of Ecgbert as king of Wessex. 804 Death of
Alcuin. 814-840 Reign of Louis the Pious. 817 Divisio Imperii. Death
of St Benedict of Aniane. 824 Promulgation of the Constitutio
Romana. 825 Conquest of Cornwall by Ecgbert. Collapse of Mercia.
826 St Anskar's first mission to Scandinavia. 827-831 Saracen
conquest of Sicily. 833 The Field of Lies. 834 The Norsemen attack
the Frankish Empire in force. 835 Resumption of Viking raids upon
England. 840 Death of Einhard. 840-855 Reign of Lothar I. 840-876
Reign of Louis the German. 840-877 Reign of Charles the Bald. 841
Battle of Fontenoy (25 June). 841-891 Height of the Viking
invasions. 842 Oath of Strasbourg (14 Feb.). 843 Sack of St Peter's
at Rome by the Saracens. Treaty of Verdun (Aug.). Division of the
Frankish Empire. 844-860 Kenneth Mac Alpin of Scotland
 Chronological Table 647 845-882 Hincmar, archbishop of
Rheims, 847 Pope Leo IV walls the Leonine City. c. 850 Pseudo-
Isidorian Decretals. Rurik, the Scandinavian, of Russia. 851 The
Danes first winter in Thanet. 855 Death of the Emperor Lothar I and
division of his lands. 855-869 Reign of Lothar II in Lorraine. 855-875
Reign of the Emperor Louis II in Italy. 856 Death of Raban Maur. 857
Photius, Patriarch of Constantinople. 858-867 Pope Nicholas I. 859-
862 Second expedition of the Norsemen to Spain and the
Mediterranean. 864 St Cyril and St Methodius among the Moravians.
867 Schism of East and West in the affair of Photius. 868 Death of
Ratramn. 869 Death of Lothar II (8 Aug.). Charles the Bald crowned
king of Lorraine (6 Oct.). Martyrdom of St Edmund. c. 870 Harold
Fairhair founds the kingdom of Norway. 870 Submission of East
Anglia to the Northmen. Partition of Lorraine at Meersen (8 Aug.).
871 Battle of Ashdown. 871-899 Reign of Alfred the Great. 872-882
Pope John VIII. 874 The Norse begin to settle in Iceland. 875 Death
of the Emperor Louis II (12 Aug.). Imperial Coronation of Charles
the Bald (25 Dec). 876 Death of Louis the German (28 Aug.).
Colonisation of Northumbria by the Danes. 877 Settlement of the
Five Boroughs. Assembly of Quierzy (14 June). Death of Charles the
Bald (6 Oct.). 878 Battle of Edington. Peace between Alfred and
Guthrum at Chippenham (the so-called Treaty of Wedmore). 879-887
Boso, king of Provence. 880 Treaty of Ribemont (all Lorraine ceded
to Germany). c. 880 Death of John Scottus (Erigena). 881-887
Charles the Fat as Emperor. 882 Death of Hincmar, archbishop of
Rheims (21 Dec). Murder of Pope John VIII. Triumph of Roman
nobles. 884 Union of the Frankish kingdoms under the Emperor
Charles the Fat. 885 Recapture of London by Alfred, and Alfred and
Guthrum's Peace. 885-887 The Northmen besiege Paris. 887 Final
disruption of the Empire of Charles the Great. 887-899 Arnulf, king
of Germany. 888-898 Odo, king of France. 888-911 or 912 Rodolph
I, king of Jurane Burgundy. c. 890 The Saracens seize Fraxinetum.
891 King Arnulf defeats the Northmen near Louvain. 895 The
Magyars settle in Hungary. 896 Arnulf crowned Emperor.
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