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on this account, and from not eating any corn during all this time,
the horses suffered much.
Francisco Vazquez set out across these plains in search of Quivira,
more on account of the story which had been told us at the river
than from the confidence which was placed in the guide here, and
after proceeding many days by the needle (i.e., to the north) it
pleased God that after thirty days’ march we found the river Quivira,
which is 30 leagues below the settlement. While going up the valley,
we found people who were going hunting, who were natives of
Quivira.
All that there is at Quivira is a very brutish people, without any
decency whatever in their houses nor in anything. These are of
straw, like the Tarascan settlements; in some villages there are as
many as 200 houses; they have corn and beans and melons; they do
not have cotton nor fowls, nor do they make bread which is cooked,
except under the ashes. Francisco Vazquez went 25 leagues through
these settlements, to where he obtained an account of what was
beyond, and they said that the plains come to an end, and that
down the river there are people who do not plant, but live wholly by
hunting.
They also gave an account of two other large villages, one of
which was called Tareque353 and the other Arae, with straw houses
at Tareque, and at Arae some of straw and some of skins. Copper
was found here, p578 and they said it came from a distance. From
what the Indian had said, it is possible that this village of Arae
contains more,354 from the clear description of it which he gave. We
did not find any trace or news of it here. Francisco Vazquez returned
from here to the river of Tiguex, where he found the army. We went
back by a more direct route, because in going by the way we went
we traveled 330 leagues, and it is not more than 200 by that by
which we returned. Quivira is in the fortieth degree and the river in
the thirty-sixth. It was so dangerous to travel or to go away from the
camp in these plains, that it is as if one was traveling on the sea,
since the only roads are those of the cows, and they are so level and
have no mountain or prominent landmark, that if one went out of
sight of it, he was lost, and in this way we lost one man, and others
who went hunting wandered around two or three days, lost. Two
kinds of people travel around these plains with the cows; one is
called Querechos and the others Teyas; they are very well built, and
painted, and are enemies of each other. They have no other
settlement or location than comes from traveling around with the
cows. They kill all of these they wish, and tan the hides, with which
they clothe themselves and make their tents, and they eat the flesh,
sometimes even raw, and they also even drink the blood when
thirsty. The tents they make are like field tents, and they set them
up over some poles they have made for this purpose, which come
together and are tied at the top, and when they go from one place
to another they carry them on some dogs they have, of which they
have many, and they load them with the tents and poles and other
things, for the country is so level, as I said, that they can make use
of these, because they carry the poles dragging along on the
ground. The sun is what they worship most. The skin for the tents is
cured on both sides, without the hair, and they have the skins of
deer and cows left over.355 They exchange some cloaks with the
natives of the river for corn.
LXXV. A Nambe Water Carrier
After Francisco Vazquez reached the river, where he found the
army, Don Pedro de Tobar came with half the people from the
Hearts, and Don Garcia Lopez de Cardenas started off for Mexico,
who, besides the fact that his arm was very bad, had permission
from the viceroy on account of the death of his brother. Ten or
twelve who were sick went with him, and not a man among them all
who could fight. He reached the town of the Spaniards and found it
burned and two Spaniards and many Indians and horses dead, and
he returned to the river on this account, escaping from them by
good fortune and great exertions. The cause of this misfortune was
that after Don Pedro started and left 40 men there, half of these
raised a mutiny and fled, and the Indians, who remembered the bad
treatment they had received, attacked them one night and
overpowered them because of their carelessness and weakness, and
they fled to Culiacan. Francisco Vazquez fell while running p579 a
horse about this time and was sick a long time, and after the winter
was over he determined to come back, and although they may say
something different, he did so, because he wanted to do this more
than anything, and so we all came together as far as Culiacan, and
each one went where he pleased from there, and Francisco Vazquez
came here to Mexico to make his report to the viceroy, who was not
at all pleased with his coming, although he pretended so at first. He
was pleased that Father Friar Juan de Padilla had stayed there, who
went to Quivira, and a Spaniard and a negro with him, and Friar
Luis, a very holy lay brother, stayed in Cicuique. We spent two very
cold winters at this river, with much snow and thick ice. The river
froze one night and remained so for more than a month, so that
loaded horses crossed on the ice. The reason these villages are
settled in this fashion is supposed to be the great cold, although it is
also partly the wars which they have with one another. And this is all
that was seen and found out about all that country, which is very
barren of fruits and groves. Quivira is a better country, having many
huts and not being so cold, although it is more to the north.
p580
TRANSLATION OF A LETTER FROM CORONADO
TO THE KING, OCTOBER 20, 1541 356
LETTER FROM FRANCISCO VAZQUEZ CORO N A‐
DO TO HIS MAJE STY, IN WHICH HE GIVES AN
ACC OUNT OF THE DISC OVE RY OF THE PRO‐
VINCE OF TIG UEX.
H OLY C ATHOLIC C ÆSARIAN M AJESTY : On April 20 of this year I wrote
to Your Majesty from this province of Tiguex, in reply to a letter from
Your Majesty dated in Madrid, June 11 a year ago. I gave a detailed
account of this expedition, which the viceroy of New Spain ordered
me to undertake in Your Majesty’s name to this country which was
discovered by Friar Marcos of Nice, the provincial of the order of
Holy Saint Francis. I described it all, and the sort of force I have, as
Your Majesty had ordered me to relate in my letters; and stated that
while I was engaged in the conquest and pacification of the natives
of this province, some Indians who were natives of other provinces
beyond these had told me that in their country there were much
larger villages and better houses than those of the natives of this
country, and that they had lords who ruled them, who were served
with dishes of gold, and other very magnificent things; and
although, as I wrote Your Majesty, I did not believe it before I had
set eyes on it, because it was the report of Indians and given for the
most part by means of signs, yet as the report appeared to me to be
very fine and that it was important that it should be investigated for
Your Majesty’s service, I determined to go and see it with the men I
have here. I started from this province on the 23d of last April, for
the place where the Indians wanted to guide me. After nine days’
march I reached some plains, so vast that I did not find their limit
anywhere that I went, although I traveled over them for more than
300 leagues. And I found such a quantity of cows in these, of the
kind that I wrote Your Majesty about, which they have in this
country, that it is impossible to number them, for while I was
journeying through these plains, until I returned to where I first
found them, there was not a day that I lost sight of them. And after
seventeen days’ march I came to a settlement of Indians who are
called Querechos, who travel around with these cows, who do not
plant, and who eat the raw flesh and drink the blood of the cows
they kill, and they tan the skins of the cows, with which all the
people p581 of this country dress themselves here. They have little
field tents made of the hides of the cows, tanned and greased, very
well made, in which they live while they travel around near the
cows, moving with these. They have dogs which they load, which
carry their tents and poles and belongings. These people have the
best figures of any that I have seen in the Indies. They could not
give me any account of the country where the guides were taking
me. I traveled five days more as the guides wished to lead me, until
I reached some plains, with no more landmarks than as if we had
been swallowed up in the sea, where they strayed about, because
there was not a stone, nor a bit of rising ground, nor a tree, nor a
shrub, nor anything to go by. There is much very fine pasture land,
with good grass. And while we were lost in these plains, some
horsemen who went off to hunt cows fell in with some Indians who
also were out hunting, who are enemies of those that I had seen in
the last settlement, and of another sort of people who are called
Teyas; they have their bodies and faces all painted, are a large
people like the others, of a very good build; they eat the raw flesh
just like the Querechos, and live and travel round with the cows in
the same way as these. I obtained from these an account of the
country where the guides were taking me, which was not like what
they had told me, because these made out that the houses there
were not built of stones, with stories, as my guides had described it,
but of straw and skins, and a small supply of corn there. This news
troubled me greatly, to find myself on these limitless plains, where I
was in great need of water, and often had to drink it so poor that it
was more mud than water. Here the guides confessed to me that
they had not told the truth in regard to the size of the houses,
because these were of straw, but that they had done so regarding
the large number of inhabitants and the other things about their
habits. The Teyas disagreed with this, and on account of this division
between some of the Indians and the others, and also because
many of the men I had with me had not eaten anything except meat
for some days, because we had reached the end of the corn which
we carried from this province, and because they made it out more
than forty days’ journey from where I fell in with the Teyas to the
country where the guides were taking me, although I appreciated
the trouble and danger there would be in the journey owing to the
lack of water and corn, it seemed to me best, in order to see if there
was anything there of service to Your Majesty, to go forward with
only 30 horsemen until I should be able to see the country, so as to
give Your Majesty a true account of what was to be found in it. I
sent all the rest of the force I had with me to this province, with Don
Tristan de Arellano in command, because it would have been
impossible to prevent the loss of many men, if all had gone on,
owing to the lack of water and because they also had to kill bulls
and cows on which to sustain themselves. And with only the 30
horsemen whom I took for my escort, I traveled forty-two days after
I left the force, living all this while solely on the flesh of the bulls and
cows which we killed, at the cost of several of our horses which they
killed, p582 because, as I wrote Your Majesty, they are very brave
and fierce animals; and going many days without water, and cooking
the food with cow dung, because there is not any kind of wood in all
these plains, away from the gullies and rivers, which are very few.
LXXVI. The Keres Pueblo of Katishtya or San Felipe
It was the Lord’s pleasure that, after having journeyed across
these deserts seventy-seven days, I arrived at the province they call
Quivira, to which the guides were conducting me, and where they
had described to me houses of stone, with many stories; and not
only are they not of stone, but of straw, but the people in them are
as barbarous as all those whom I have seen and passed before this;
they do not have cloaks, nor cotton of which, to make these, but use
the skins of the cattle they kill, which they tan, because they are
settled among these on a very large river. They eat the raw flesh like
the Querechos and Teyas; they are enemies of one another, but are
all of the same sort of people, and these at Quivira have the
advantage in the houses they build and in planting corn. In this
province of which the guides who brought me are natives, they
received me peaceably, and although they told me when I set out
for it that I could not succeed in seeing it all in two months, there
are not more than 25 villages of straw houses there and in all the
rest of the country that I saw and learned about, which gave their
obedience to Your Majesty and placed themselves under your royal
overlordship. The people here are large. I had several Indians
measured, and found that they were 10 palms in height; the women
are well proportioned and their features are more like Moorish
women than Indians. The natives here gave me a piece of copper
which a chief Indian wore hung around his neck; I sent it to the
viceroy of New Spain, because I have not seen any other metal in
these parts except this and some little copper bells which I sent him,
and a bit of metal which looks like gold. I do not know where this
came from, although I believe that the Indians who gave it to me
obtained it from those whom I brought here in my service, because I
can not find any other origin for it nor where it came from. The
diversity of languages which exists in this country and my not having
anyone who understood them, because they speak their own
language in each village, has hindered me, because I have been
forced to send captains and men in many directions to find out
whether there was anything in this country which could be of service
to Your Majesty. And although I have searched with all diligence I
have not found or heard of anything, unless it be these provinces,
which are a very small affair. The province of Quivira is 950 leagues
from Mexico. Where I reached it, it is in the fortieth degree. The
country itself is the best I have ever seen for producing all the
products of Spain, for besides the land itself being very fat and black
and being very well watered by the rivulets and springs and rivers, I
found prunes like those of Spain [or I found everything they have in
Spain] and nuts and very good sweet grapes and mulberries. I have
treated the natives of this province, and all the others whom I found
wherever I went, as well as was possible, p583 agreeably to what
Your Majesty had commanded, and they have received no harm in
any way from me or from those who went in my company.357 I
remained twenty-five days in this province of Quivira, so as to see
and explore the country and also to find out whether there was
anything beyond which could be of service to Your Majesty, because
the guides who had brought me had given me an account of other
provinces beyond this. And what I am sure of is that there is not any
gold nor any other metal in all that country, and the other things of
which they had told me are nothing but little villages, and in many of
these they do not plant anything and do not have any houses except
of skins and sticks, and they wander around with the cows; so that
the account they gave me was false, because they wanted to
persuade me to go there with the whole force, believing that as the
way was through such uninhabited deserts, and from the lack of
water, they would get us where we and our horses would die of
hunger. And the guides confessed this, and said they had done it by
the advice and orders of the natives of these provinces. At this, after
having heard the account of what was beyond, which I have given
above, I returned to these provinces to provide for the force I had
sent back here and to give Your Majesty an account of what this
country amounts to, because I wrote Your Majesty that I would do
so when I went there. I have done all that I possibly could to serve
Your Majesty and to discover a country where God Our Lord might
be served and the royal patrimony of Your Majesty increased, as
your loyal servant and vassal. For since I reached the province of
Cibola, to which the viceroy of New Spain sent me in the name of
Your Majesty, seeing that there were none of the things there of
which Friar Marcos had told, I have managed to explore this country
for 200 leagues and more around Cibola, and the best place I have
found is this river of Tiguex where I am now, and the settlements
here. It would not be possible to establish a settlement here, for
besides being 400 leagues from the North sea and more than 200
from the South sea, with which it is impossible to have any sort of
communication, the country is so cold, as I have written to Your
Majesty, that apparently the winter could not possibly be spent here,
because there is no wood, nor cloth with which to protect the men,
except the skins which the natives wear and some small amount of
cotton cloaks. I send the viceroy of New Spain an account of
everything I have seen in the countries where I have been, and as
Don Garcia Lopez de Cardenas is going to kiss Your Majesty’s hands,
who has done much and has served Your Majesty very well on this
expedition, and he will give Your Majesty an account of everything
here, as one who has seen it himself, I give way to him. And may
Our Lord protect the Holy Imperial Catholic person of Your Majesty,
with increase of greater kingdoms and powers, as your loyal
servants and vassals desire. From this province of Tiguex,
October 20, in the year 1541. Your Majesty’s humble servant and
vassal, who would kiss the royal feet and hands:
F RANCISCO V AZQUEZ C ORONADO .
p584
TRANSLATION OF THE NARRATIVE OF
JARAMILLO
ACCOUNT GIVEN BY CAPTAIN JUAN JARAMILLO
OF THE JOURNEY WHICH HE MADE TO THE
NEW COUNTRY, ON WHICH FRANCISCO
VAZQUEZ CORONADO WAS THE GENERAL. 358
We started from Mexico, going directly to Compostela, the whole
way populated and at peace, the direction being west, and the
distance 112 leagues. From there we went to Culiacan, perhaps
about 80 leagues; the road is well known and much used, because
there is a town inhabited by Spaniards in the said valley of Culiacan,
under the government of Compostela. The 70 horsemen who went
with the general went in a northwesterly direction from this town.
He left his army here, because information had been obtained that
the way was uninhabited and almost the whole of it without food.
He went with the said horsemen to explore the route and prepare
the way for those who were to follow. He pursued this direction,
though with some twisting, until we crossed a mountain chain,
where they knew about New Spain, more than 300 leagues distant.
To this pass we gave the name of Chichilte Calli, because we learned
that this was what it was called, from some Indians whom we left
behind.
LXXVII. The South Town of the Tiwa Pueblo of Taos
Leaving the said valley of Culiacan, he crossed a river called
Pateatlan (or Peteatlan), which was about four days distant. We
found these Indians peaceful, and they gave us some few things to
eat. From here we went to another river called Cinaloa, which was
about three days from the other. From here the general ordered ten
of us horsemen to make double marches, lightly equipped, until we
reached the stream of the Cedars (arroyo de los Cedros), and from
there we were to enter a break in the mountains on the right of the
road and see what there was in and about this. If more time should
be needed for this than we gained on him, he would wait for us at
the said Cedros stream. This was done, and all that we saw there
was a few poor Indians in some settled valleys like farms or estates,
with sterile soil. It was about five more days from the river to this
stream. From there we went to the river called Yaquemi, which took
about three days. We proceeded along a dry stream, and after three
days more of marching, although the dry stream lasted only for a
league, we reached another stream where there were some settled
Indians, who had straw huts and storehouses of corn and beans and
melons. Leaving here, we went to p585 the stream and village which
is called Hearts (Corazones), the name which was given it by
Dorantes and Cabeza de Vaca and Castillo and the negro Estebanillo,
because they gave them a present of the hearts of animals and birds
to eat.
About two days were spent in this village of the Hearts. There is
an irrigation stream, and the country is warm. Their dwellings are
huts made of a frame of poles, almost like an oven, only very much
better, which they cover with mats. They have corn and beans and
melons for food, which I believe never fail them. They dress in
deerskins. This appeared to be a good place, and so orders were
given the Spaniards who were behind to establish a village here,
where they lived until almost the failure of the expedition. There was
a poison here, the effect of which is, according to what was seen of
it, the worst that could possibly be found; and from what we learned
about it, it is the sap of a small tree like the mastick tree, or lentisk,
and it grows in gravelly and sterile land.359 We went on from here,
passing through a sort of gateway, to another valley very near this
stream, which opens off from this same stream, which is called
Señora. It is also irrigated, and the Indians are like the others and
have the same sort of settlements and food. This valley continues
for 6 or 7 leagues, a little more or less. At first these Indians were
peaceful; and afterward not, but instead they and those whom they
were able to summon thither were our worst enemies. They have a
poison with which they killed several Christians. There are mountains
on both sides of them, which are not very fertile. From, here we
went along near this said stream, crossing it where it makes a bend,
to another Indian settlement called Ispa.360 It takes one day from
the last of these others to this place. It is of the same sort as those
we had passed. From here we went through deserted country for
about four days to another river, which we heard called Nexpa,
where some poor Indians came out to see the general, with presents
of little value, with some stalks of roasted maguey and pitahayas.
We went down this stream two days, and then left the stream, going
toward the right to the foot of the mountain chain in two days’
journey, where we heard news of what is called Chichiltic Calli.
Crossing the mountains, we came to a deep and reedy river, where
we found water and forage for the horses. p586 From this river back
at Nexpa, as I have said, it seems to me that the direction was
nearly northeast. From here, I believe that we went in the same
direction for three days to a river which we called Saint John (San
Juan), because we reached it on his day. Leaving here, we went to
another river, through a somewhat rough country, more toward the
north, to a river which we called the Rafts (de las Balsas), because
we had to cross on these, as it was rising. It seems to me that we
spent two days between one river and the other, and I say this
because it is so long since we went there that I may be wrong in
some days, though not in the rest. From here we went to another
river, which we called the Slough (de la Barranca.) It is two short
days from one to the other, and the direction almost northeast. From
here we went to another river, which we called the Cold river (el rio
Frio), on account of its water being so, in one day’s journey, and
from here we went by a pine mountain, where we found, almost at
the top of it, a cool spring and streamlet, which was another day’s
march. In the neighborhood of this stream a Spaniard, who was
called Espinosa, died, besides two other persons, on account of
poisonous plants which they ate, owing to the great need in which
they were. From here we went to another river, which we called the
Red river (Bermejo), two days’ journey in the same direction, but
less toward the northeast. Here we saw an Indian or two, who
afterward appeared to belong to the first settlement of Cibola. From
here we came in two days’ journey to the said village, the first of
Cibola. The houses have flat roofs and walls of stone and mud, and
this was where they killed Steve (Estebanillo), the negro who had
come with Dorantes from Florida and returned with Friar Marcos de
Niza. In this province of Cibola there are five little villages besides
this, all with flat roofs and of stone and mud, as I said. The country
is cold, as is shown by their houses and hothouses (estufas). They
have food enough for themselves, of corn and beans and melons.
These villages are about a league or more apart from each other,
within a circuit of perhaps 6 leagues. The country is somewhat
sandy and not very salty (or barren of vegetation361), and on the
mountains the trees are for the most part evergreen. The clothing of
the Indians is of deerskins, very carefully tanned, and they also
prepare some tanned cowhides, with which they cover themselves,
which are like shawls, and a great protection. They have square
cloaks of cotton, some larger than others, about a yard and a half
long. The Indians wear them thrown over the shoulder like a gipsy,
and fastened with one end over the other, with a girdle, also of
cotton. From this first village of Cibola, looking toward the northeast
and a little less, on the left hand, there is a province called Tucayan,
about five days off, which has seven flat-roof villages, with a food
supply as good as or better than these, and p587 an even larger
population; and they also have the skins of cows and of deer, and
cloaks of cotton, as I described.362
LXXVIII. The Tewa Pueblo of K’hapóo or Santa Clara
All the waterways we found as far as this one at Cibola—and I do
not know but what for a day or two beyond—the rivers and streams
run into the South sea, and those from here on into the North sea.
LXXIX. The Tewa Pueblo of Ohke or San Juan
From this first village of Cibola, as I have said, we went to another
in the same province, which was about a short day’s journey off, on
the way to Tihuex. It is nine days, of such marches as we made,
from this settlement of Cibola to the river of Tihuex. Halfway
between, I do not know but it maybe a day more or less, there is a
village of earth and dressed stone, in a very strong position, which is
called Tutahaco.363 All these Indians, except the first in the first
village of Cibola, received us well. At the river of Tihuex there are 15
villages within a distance of about 20 leagues, all with flat-roof
houses of earth, instead of stone, after the fashion of mud walls.
There are other villages besides these on other streams which flow
into this, and three of these are, for Indians, well worth seeing,
especially one that is called Chia,364 and another Uraba,365 and
another Cicuique.366 Uraba and Cicuique have many houses two
stories high. All the rest, and these also, have corn and beans and
melons, skins, and some long robes of feathers which they braid,
joining the feathers with a sort of thread; and they also make them
of a sort of plain weaving with which they make the cloaks with
which they protect themselves. They all have hot rooms
underground, which, although not very clean, are very warm.367
They raise and have a very little cotton, of which they make the
cloaks which I have spoken of above. This river comes from the
northwest and flows about southeast, which shows that it certainly
flows into the North sea. Leaving this settlement368 and the said
river, we passed two other villages whose names I do not know,369
and in four days came to Cicuique, which I have already mentioned.
The direction of this is toward the northeast. From there we came to
another river, which the Spaniards named after Cicuique, in three
days; if I remember rightly, it seems to me that we went rather
toward the northeast to reach this river where we crossed it, and
after crossing this, we turned more to p588 the left hand, which
would be more to the northeast, and began to enter the plains
where the cows are, although, we did not find them for some four or
five days, after which we began to come across bulls, of which there
are great numbers, and after going on in the same direction and
meeting the bulls for two or three days, we began to find ourselves
in the midst of very great numbers of cows, yearlings and bulls all in
together. We found Indians among these first cows, who were, on
this account, called Querechos by those in the flat roof houses. They
do not live in houses, but have some sets of poles which they carry
with them to make some huts at the places where they stop, which
serve them for houses. They tie these poles together at the top and
stick the bottoms into the ground, covering them with some
cowskins which they carry around, and which, as I have said, serve
them for houses. From what was learned of these Indians, all their
human needs are supplied by these cows, for they are fed and
clothed and shod from these. They are a people who wander around
here and there, wherever seems to them best. We went on for eight
or ten days in the same direction, along those streams which are
among the cows. The Indian who guided us from here was the one
that had given us the news about Quevira and Arache (or Arahei)
and about its being a very rich country with much gold and other
things, and he and the other one were from that country I
mentioned, to which we were going, and we found these two
Indians in the flat-roof villages. It seems that, as the said Indian
wanted to go to his own country, he proceeded to tell us what we
found was not true, and I do not know whether it was on this
account or because he was counseled to take us into other regions
by confusing us on the road, although there are none in all this
region except those of the cows. We understood, however, that he
was leading us away from the route we ought to follow and that he
wanted to lead us on to those plains where he had led us, so that
we would eat up the food, and both ourselves and our horses would
become weak from the lack of this, because if we should go either
backward or forward in this condition we could not make any
resistance to whatever they might wish to do to us. From the time
when, as I said, we entered the plains and from, this settlement of
Querechos, he led us off more to the east, until we came to be in
extreme need from the lack of food, and as the other Indian, who
was his companion and also from his country, saw that he was not
taking us where we ought to go, since we had always followed the
guidance of the Turk, for so he was called, instead of his, he threw
himself down in the way, making a sign that although we cut off his
head he ought not to go that way, nor was that our direction. I
believe we had been traveling twenty days or more in this direction,
at the end of which we found another settlement of Indians of the
same sort and way of living as those behind, among whom there
was an old blind man with a beard, who gave us to understand, by
signs which he made, p589 that he had seen four others like us many
days before, whom he had seen near there and rather more toward
New Spain, and we so understood him, and presumed that it was
Dorantes and Cabeza de Vaca and those whom I have mentioned. At
this settlement the general, seeing our difficulties, ordered the
captains, and the persons whose advice he was accustomed to take,
to assemble, so that we might discuss with him what was best for
all. It seemed to us that all the force should go back to the region
we had come from, in search of food, so that they could regain their
strength, and that 30 picked horsemen should go in search of what
the Indian had told about; and we decided to do this. We all went
forward one day to a stream which was down in a ravine in the
midst of good meadows, to agree on who should go ahead and how
the rest should return. Here the Indian Isopete, as we had called the
companion of the said Turk, was asked to tell us the truth, and to
lead us to that country which we had come in search of. He said he
would do it, and that it was not as the Turk had said, because those
were certainly fine things which he had said and had given us to
understand at Tihuex, about gold and how it was obtained, and the
buildings, and the style of them, and their trade, and many other
things told for the sake of prolixity, which had led us to go in search
of them, with the advice of all who gave it and of the priests. He
asked us to leave him afterward in that country, because it was his
native country, as a reward for guiding us, and also, that the Turk
might not go along with him, because he would quarrel and try to
restrain him in everything that he wanted to do for our advantage;
and the general promised him this, and said he would be with one of
the thirty, and he went in this way. And when everything was ready
for us to set out and for the others to remain, we pursued our way,
the direction all the time after this being toward the north, for more
than thirty days’ march, although not long marches, not having to go
without water on any one of them, and among cows all the time,
some days in larger numbers than others, according to the water
which we came across, so that on Saint Peter and Paul’s day we
reached a river which we found to be there below Quibira. When we
reached the said river, the Indian recognized it and said that was it,
and that it was below the settlements. We crossed it there and went
up the other side on the north, the direction turning toward the
northeast, and after marching three days we found some Indians
who were going hunting, killing the cows to take the meat to their
village, which was about three or four days still farther away from
us. Here where we found the Indians and they saw us, they began
to utter yells and appeared to fly, and some even had their wives
there with them. The Indian Isopete began to call them in his
language, and so they came to us without any signs of fear. When
we and these Indians had halted here, the general made an example
of the Indian Turk, whom we had brought along, keeping him all the
time out of sight among the rear guard, and p590 having arrived
where the place was prepared, it was done in such a way that the
other Indian, who was called Isopete, should not see it, so as to give
him the satisfaction he had asked. Some satisfaction was
experienced here on seeing the good appearance of the earth, and it
is certainly such among the cows, and from there on. The general
wrote a letter here to the governor of Harahey and Quibira, having
understood that he was a Christian from the lost army of Florida,
because what the Indian had said of their manner of government
and their general character had made us believe this. So the Indians
went to their houses, which were at the distance mentioned, and we
also proceeded at our rate of marching until we reached the
settlements, which we found along good river bottoms, although
without much water, and good streams which flow into another,
larger than the one I have mentioned. There were, if I recall
correctly, six or seven settlements, at quite a distance from one
another, among which we traveled for four or five days, since it was
understood to be uninhabited between one stream and the other.
We reached what they said was the end of Quibira, to which they
took us, saying that the things there were of great importance.370
Here there was a river, with more water and more inhabitants than
the others. Being asked if there was anything beyond, they said that
there was nothing more of Quibira, but that there was Harahey, and
that it was the same sort of a place, with settlements like these, and
of about the same size. The general sent to summon the lord of
those parts and the other Indians who they said resided in Harahey,
and he came with about 200 men—all naked—with bows, and some
sort of things on their heads, and their privy parts slightly covered.
He was a big Indian, with a large body and limbs, and well
proportioned. After he had heard the opinion of one and another
about it, the general asked them what we ought to do, reminding us
of how the army had been left and that the rest of us were there, so
that it seemed to all of us that as it was already almost the opening
of winter, for, if I remember rightly, it was after the middle of August,
and because there was little to winter there for, and we were but
very little prepared for it, and the uncertainty as to the success of
the army that had been left, and because the winter might close the
roads with snow and rivers which we could not cross, and also in
order to see what had happened to the rest of the force left behind,
it seemed to us all that his grace ought to go back in search of
them, and when he had found out for certain how they were, to
winter there and return to that country at the opening of spring, to
conquer and cultivate it. Since, as I said, this was the last point
which we reached, here the Turk saw that he had lied to us, and one
night he called on all these people to attack us and kill us. We
learned of it, and put him under guard and strangled him that night
so that he never waked up. With the plan p591 mentioned, we turned
back it may have been two or three days, where we provided
ourselves with picked fruit and dried corn for our return. The general
raised a cross at this place, at the foot of which he made some
letters with a chisel, which said that Francisco Vazquez de Coronado,
general of that army, had arrived here.
This country presents a very fine appearance, than which I have
not seen a better in all our Spain, nor Italy, nor a part of France, nor,
indeed, in the other countries where I have traveled in His Majesty’s
service, for it is not a very rough country, but is made up of hillocks
and plains, and very fine appearing rivers and streams, which
certainly satisfied me and made me sure that it will be very fruitful in
all sorts of products. Indeed, there is profit in the cattle ready to the
hand, from the quantity of them, which is as great as one could
imagine. We found a variety of Castilian prunes which are not all
red, but some of them black and green; the tree and fruit is certainly
like that of Castile, with a very excellent flavor. Among the cows we
found flax, which springs up from the earth in clumps apart from
one another, which are noticeable, as the cattle do not eat it, with
their tops and blue flowers, and very perfect although small,
resembling that of our own Spain (or and sumach like ours in
Spain). There are grapes along some streams, of a fair flavor, not to
be improved upon. The houses which these Indians have were of
straw, and most of them round, and the straw reached down to the
ground like a wall, so that they did not have the symmetry or the
style of these here; they have something like a chapel or sentry box
outside and around these, with an entry, where the Indians appear
seated or reclining.371 The Indian Isopete was left here where the
cross was erected, and we took five or six of the Indians from these
villages to lead and guide us to the flat-roof houses.372 Thus they
brought us back by the same road as far as where I said before that
we came to a river called Saint Peter and Paul’s, and here we left
that by which we had come, and, taking the right hand, they led us
along by watering places and among cows and by a good road,
although there are none either one way or the other except those of
the cows, as I have said. At last we came to where we recognized
the country, where I said we found the first settlement, p592 where
the Turk led as astray from the route we should have followed. Thus,
leaving the rest aside, we reached Tiguex, where we found the rest
of the army, and here the general fell while running his horse, by
which he received a wound on his head which gave symptoms of
turning out badly, and he conceived the idea of returning, which ten
or twelve of us were unable to prevent by dissuading him from it.
When this return had been ordered, the Franciscan friars who were
with us—one of them a regular and the other a lay brother—who
were called, the regular one Friar Juan de Padilla and the lay one
Friar Luis de Escalona, were told to get ready, although they had
permission from their provincial so that they could remain. Friar Luis
wished to remain in these flat-roof houses, saying that he would
raise crosses for those villagers with a chisel and adze they left him,
and would baptize several poor creatures who could be led, on the
point of death, so as to send them to heaven, for which he did not
desire any other company than a little slave of mine who was called
Christopher, to be his consolation, and who he said would learn the
language there quickly so as to help him; and he brought up so
many things in favor of this that he could not be denied, and so
nothing more has been heard from him. The knowledge that this
friar would remain there was the reason that many Indians from
hereabouts stayed there, and also two negroes, one of them mine,
who was called Sebastian, and the other one of Melchor Perez, the
son of the licentiate La Torre. This negro was married and had his
wife and children. I also recall that several Indians remained behind
in the Quivira region, besides a Tarascan belonging to my company,
who was named Andrew. Friar Juan de Padilla preferred to return to
Quivira, and persuaded them to give him those Indians whom I said
we had brought as guides. They gave him these, and he also took a
Portuguese and a free Spanish-speaking Indian, who was the
interpreter, and who passed as a Franciscan friar, and a half-blood
and two Indians from Capottan (or Capotean) or thereabouts, I
believe. He had brought these up and took them in the habits of
friars, and he took some sheep and mules and a horse and
ornaments and other trifles. I do not know whether it was for the
sake of these or for what reason, but it seems that they killed him,
and those who did it were the lay servants, or these same Indians
whom he took back from Tiguex, in return for the good deeds which
he had done. When he was dead, the Portuguese whom I mentioned
fled, and also one of the Indians that I said he took in the habits of
friars, or both of them, I believe. I mention this because they came
back to this country of New Spain by another way and a shorter
route than the one of which I have told, and they came out in the
valley of Panico.373 I have given Gonzalo Solis de Meras and Isidore
de Solis an account of this, because it seemed to me important,
according to what I say I have understood, that p593 His Majesty
ordered Your Lordship to find or discover a way so as to unite that
land to this. It is perhaps also very likely that this Indian Sebastian,
during the time he was in Quivira, learned about its territory and the
country round about it, and also of the sea, and the road by which
he came, and what there is to it, and how many days’ journey
before arriving there. So that I am sure that if Your Lordship
acquires this Quivira on this account, I am certain that he can
confidently bring many people from Spain to settle it according to
the appearance and the character of the land.
LXXX. A Native of San Juan
p594
TRANSLATION OF THE REPORT OF HERNANDO
DE ALVARADO
ACCOUNT OF WHAT HERN ANDO DE ALVAR ADO
AND FRIAR JUAN DE PAD ILLA DISC OVE RED GO‐
ING IN SEARCH OF THE SOUTH SEA. 374
We set out from Granada on Sunday, the day of the beheading of
Saint John the Baptist, the 29th of August, in the year 1540, on the
way to Coco.375 After we had gone 2 leagues, we came to an
ancient building like a fortress, and a league beyond this we found
another, and yet another a little farther on, and beyond these we
found an ancient city, very large, entirely destroyed, although a large
part of the wall was standing, which was six times as tall as a man,
the wall well made of good worked stone, with gates and gutters like
a city in Castile. Half a league or more beyond this, we found
another ruined city, the walls of which must have been very fine,
built of very large granite blocks, as high as a man and from there
up of very good quarried stone. Here two roads separate, one to
Chia and the other to Coco; we took this latter, and reached that
place, which is one of the strongest places that we have seen,
because the city is on a very high rock, with such a rough ascent
that we repented having gone up to the place. The houses have
three or four stories; the people are the same sort as those of the
province of Cibola; they have plenty of food, of corn and beans and
fowls like those of New Spain. From here we went to a very good
lake or marsh, where there are trees like those of Castile, and from
there we went to a river, which we named Our Lady (Nuestra
Señora), because we reached it the evening before her day in the
month of September.376 We sent the cross by a guide to the villages
in advance, and the next day people came from twelve villages, the
chief men and the people in order, those of one village behind those
of another, and they approached the tent to the sound of a pipe, and
with an old man for spokesman. In this fashion they came into the
tent and gave me the food and clothes and skins they had brought,
and I gave them some trinkets, and with this they went off.
This river of Our Lady flows through a very wide open plain sowed
with corn plants; there are several groves, and there are twelve p595
villages. The houses are of earth, two stories high; the people have
a good appearance, more like laborers than a warlike race; they
have a large food supply of corn, beans, melons, and fowl in great
plenty; they clothe themselves with cotton and the skins of cows and
dresses of the feathers of the fowls; they wear their hair short.
Those who have the most authority among them are the old men;
we regarded them as witches, because they say that they go up into
the sky and other things of the same sort. In this province there are
seven other villages, depopulated and destroyed by those Indians
who paint their eyes, of whom the guides will tell Your Grace; they
say that these live in the same region as the cows, and that they
have corn and houses of straw.
Here the people from the outlying provinces came to make peace
with me, and as Your Grace may see in this memorandum, there are
80 villages there of the same sort as I have described, and among
them one which is located on some streams; it is divided into twenty
divisions, which is something remarkable; the houses have three
stories of mud walls and three others made of small wooden boards,
and on the outside of the three stories with the mud wall they have
three balconies; it seemed to us that there were nearly 15,000
persons in this village. The country is very cold; they do not raise
fowls nor cotton; they worship the sun and water. We found mounds
of dirt outside of the place, where they are buried.
In the places where crosses were raised, we saw them worship
these. They made offerings to these of their powder and feathers,
and some left the blankets they had on. They showed so much zeal
that some climbed up on the others to grasp the arms of the cross,
to place feathers and flowers there; and others bringing ladders,
while some held them, went up to tie strings, so as to fasten the
flowers and the feathers.
p596
TESTIMONY CONCERNING THOSE WHO WENT
ON THE EXPEDITION WITH FRANCISCO
VAZQUEZ CORONADO 377
At Compostela, on February 21, 1540, Coronado presented a
petition to the viceroy Mendoza, declaring that he had observed that
certain persons who were not well disposed toward the expedition
which was about to start for the newly discovered country had said
that many of the inhabitants of the City of Mexico and of the other
cities and towns of New Spain, and also of Compostela and other
places in this province of New Galicia were going on the expedition
at his request or because of inducements offered by him, as a result
of which the City of Mexico and New Spain were left deserted, or
almost so. Therefore, he asked the viceroy to order that information
be obtained, in order that the truth might be known about the
citizens of New Spain and of this province who were going to
accompany him. He declared that there were very few of these, and
that they were not going on account of any attraction or inducement
offered by him, but of their own free will, and as there were few of
them, there would not be any lack of people in New Spain. And as
Gonzalo de Salazar, the factor or royal agent, and Pero Almidez
Cherino, the veedor or royal inspector of His Majesty for New Spain,
and other citizens of Mexico who knew all the facts and had the
necessary information, were present there, Coronado asked His
Grace to provide and order that which, would best serve His
Majesty’s interests and the welfare and security of New Spain.
The viceroy instructed the licenciate Maldonado, oidor of the royal
audiencia,378 to procure this information. To facilitate the hearing he
provided that the said factor and veedor and the regidores, and
others who were there, should attend the review of the army, which
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