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Discovering Diverse Content Through
Random Scribd Documents
[1100]

See Chap. XXII.

[1101]

The richly-laced corporax cloths and church linen are sent to be

washed by the "Lady Ancress," an ecclesiastical washerwoman,
who is paid by the churchwardens of St. Margaret's, Westminster,
the sum of 8d.; this Lady Ancress, or Anchoress, being some
worn-out nun, who, since the dissolution of the religious houses,
eked out an existence by the art she had once practised within the
convent.

[1102]

In 1753 prizes were awarded for 14 pairs of curious needlework

point ruffles.

[1103]

One society confers a prize of ten guineas upon a "gentlewoman

for an improvement in manufacture by finishing a piece of lace in
a very elegant manner with knitting-needles."

[1104]

The lace of the three counties is practically equal—that is, it is all

made in a similar fashion, and the same patterns are met with in
each county. The "point" or "net" ground is met with in all, and
worked level with the pattern in the same way with bobbins.

[1105]

Who fled from the Alva persecutions, and settled, first at Cranfield
in Bedfordshire, then at Buckingham, Stoney Stratford, and
Newport-Pagnel, whence the manufacture extended gradually over
Oxford, Northampton, and Cambridge. Many Flemish names are
still to be found in the villages of Bedfordshire.
[1106]

Queen Katherine died 1536.

[1107]

She retired to Ampthill early in 1531 while her appeal to Rome was
pending, and remained there till the summer of 1533.

[1108]

Lace of the heavy Venetian point was already used for

ecclesiastical purposes, though scarcely in general use. The
earliest known pattern-books date from fifteen years previous to
the death of Katherine (1536).

[1109]

Dr. Nicolas Harpsfield. Douay, 1622. (In Latin.)

Again we read that at Kimbolton "she plied her needle, drank her
potions, and told her beads."—Duke of Manchester. Kimbolton
Papers.

[1110]

A lady from Ampthill writes (1863): "The feast of St. Katherine is

no longer kept. In the palmy days of the trade both old and young
used to subscribe a sum of money and enjoy a good cup of Bohea
and cake, which they called 'Cattern' cake. After tea they danced
and made merry, and finished the evening with a supper of boiled
stuffed rabbits smothered with onion sauce." The custom of
sending about Cattern cakes was also observed at Kettering, in
Northamptonshire.

[1111]

Tour through the whole Island of Great Britain, by a Gentleman. 3

vols. 1724-27. Several subsequent editions of Defoe were
published, with additions, by Richardson the novelist in 1732,
1742, 1762, 1769, and 1778. The last is "brought down to the
present time by a gentleman of eminence in the literary world."
[1112]

Magna Britannia et Hibernia, or a New Survey of Great Britain,

collected and composed by an impartial hand, by the Rev. Thos.
Owen. Lond. 1720-31.

[1113]

State Papers Dom. Jac. I. Vol. 142. P. R. O.

[1114]

Savary and Peuchet.

[1115]

Worthies. Vol. i., p. 134.

[1116]

Magna Britannia, Daniel and Samuel Lysons. 1806-22.

[1117]

Describing the "lace and edgings" of the tradesman's wife, she has
"from Stoney Stratford the first, and Great Marlow the last."—The
Complete English Tradesman, Dan. Defoe. 1726.

[1118]

Edition 1762.

[1119]

In Sheahan's History of Bucks, published in 1862, the following

places are mentioned as being engaged in the industry:—"Bierton
(black and white lace), Cuddington, Haddenham, Great Hampden,
Wendover, Gawcott (black), Beachampton, Marsh Gibbon, Preston
Bisset, Claydon, Grendon, Dorton, Grandborough, Oving (black
and white), Waddesdon, Newport-Pagnell, Bletchley, Hopton,
Great Horwood, Bon Buckhill, Fenny Stratford, Hanslope (where
500 women and children are employed—about one-third of the
population), Levendon, Great Sandford, Loughton, Melton Keynes,
Moulsoe, Newton Blossomville, Olney, Sherrington, and the
adjoining villages, Stoke Hammond, Wavendon, Great and Little
Kimble, Wooleston, Aston Abbots, Swanbourne, Winslow,
Rodnage."
[1120]

The Voyage to Great Britain of Don Manuel Gonzales, late

Merchant of the City of Lisbon.—"Some say Defoe wrote this book
himself; it is evidently from the pen of an Englishman."—Lowndes'
Bibliographers' Manual. Bohn's Edition.

[1121]

Annual Register.

[1122]

See Britannia Depicta, by John Owen, Gent. Lond. 1764, and

others.

[1123]

In 1785 there appears in the Gentleman's Magazine* "An essay on

the cause and prevention of deformity among the lace-makers of
Bucks and North Hants," suggesting improved ventilation and
various other remedies long since adopted by the lace-working
population in all countries.

* In 1761 appeared a previous paper, "to prevent the effects of

stooping and vitiated air," etc.

[1124]

Dict. of Commerce.
[1125]

In Flanders also these glasses were made and used. The

"mediæval 'ourinals' are alike the retorts of the alchemist and the
water-globes of the poor Flemish flax-thread spinners and lace
makers." Old English Glasses. A. Hartshorne.

[1126]

The larger pins had heads put to them with seeds of galium locally
called Hariffe or goose-grass; the seeds when fingered became
hard and polished.

[1127]

Bobbins are usually made of bone, wood or ivory. English bobbins

are of bone or wood, and especially in the counties of Bedford,
Bucks, and Huntingdon, the set on a lace pillow formed a homely
record of their owner's life. The names of her family, dates and
records, births and marriages and mottoes, were carved, burnt, or
stained on the bobbin, while events of general interest were often
commemorated by the addition of a new bobbin. The spangles,
jingles (or gingles) fastened to the end of the bobbin have a
certain interest; a waistcoat button and a few coral beads brought
from overseas, a family relic in the shape of an old copper seal, or
an ancient and battered coin—such things as these were often
attached to the ring of brass wire passed through a hole in the
bobbin. The inscriptions on the bobbins are sometimes burned and
afterwards stained, and sometimes "pegged" or traced in tiny
leaden studs, and consist of such mottoes as "Love me Truley"
(sic), "Buy the Ring," "Osborne for Ever," "Queen Caroline," "Let
no false Lover win my heart," "To me, my dear, you may come
near," "Lovely Betty," "Dear Mother," and so forth.—R. E. Head.
"Some notes on Lace-Bobbins." The Reliquary, July, 1900.

[1128]
Too much stress cannot be laid on the importance of using fine
linen thread. Many well-meant efforts are entirely ruined by the
coarse woolly cotton thread used for what ought to be a fine make
of lace. That good thread can be got in Great Britain is evident
from the fact that the Brussels dealers employ English thread, and
sell it to Venice for the exquisite work of Burano. Needless to say,
no Englishman has attempted to make a bid for the direct custom
of the 8,000 lace-workers there employed.
[1129]

Catalogue of lace (Victoria and Albert Museum).

[1130]

The Conversion and Experience of Mary Hurll', or Hurdle, of

Marlborough, a maker of bone lace in this town, by the Rev. ——
Hughes, of that town.

[1131]

Waylen's History of Marlborough.

[1132]

"At Bland, on the Stour, between Salisbury and Dorchester, they

made the finest lace in England, valued at £30 per yard."—
Universal Dict. of Trade and Commerce. 1774.

[1133]

"Much bone lace was made here, and the finest point in England,
equal, if not superior, to that of Flanders, and valued at £30 per
yard till the beginning of this century."—Hutchins' Hist. of the
County of Dorset. 2nd Edition, 1796.

[1134]

What this celebrated point was we cannot ascertain. Two samplars

sent to us as Blandford point were of geometric pattern
resembling the samplar, Fig. 5.
[1135]

In 1752.

[1136]

Roberts' Hist. of Lyme Regis.

[1137]

Burd, Genest, Raymunds, Brock, Couch, Gerard, Murck, Stocker,

Maynard, Trump, Groot, etc.

[1138]

"We may rather infer that laces of silk and coarse thread were
already fabricated in Devonshire, as elsewhere; and that the
Flemings, on their arrival, having introduced the fine thread, then
spun almost exclusively in their own country, from that period the
trade of bone-lace-making flourished in the southern as well as in
the midland counties of England" (Mrs. Palliser, 1869).

[1139]

Ker's Synopsis, written about the year 1561. Two copies of this
MS. exist, one in the library of Lord Haldon at Haldon House (Co.
Devon), the other in the British Museum. This MS. was never
printed, but served as an authority for Westcote and others.

[1140]

"She was a daughter of John Flay, Vicar of Buckrell, near Honiton,

who by will in 1614 bequeaths certain lands to Jerom Minify (sic),
son of Jerom Minify, of Burwash, Sussex, who married his only
daughter."—Prince's Worthies of Devon. 1701.

Up to a recent date the Honiton lace-makers were mostly of

Flemish origin. Mrs. Stocker, ob. 1769; Mr. J. Stocker, + 1788, and
four daughters; Mrs. Mary Stocker, + 179-; Mr. Gerard, + 1799,
and daughter; Mrs. Lydia Maynard (of Anti-Gallican celebrity), +
1786; Mrs. Ann Brock, + 1815; Mrs. Elizabeth Humphrey, + 1790,
whose family had been in the lace manufacture 150 years and
more. The above list has been furnished to the author by Mrs.
Frank Aberdein, whose grandfather was for many years in the
trade. Mrs. Treadwin, of Exeter, found an old lace-worker using a
lace "Turn" for winding sticks, having the date 1678 rudely carved
on the foot, showing how the trade was continued in the same
family from generation to generation.
[1141]

View of Devon. T. Westcote.

[1142]

Her bequest is called "Minifie's Gift."

[1143]

Here follows the numbers of the people in a few places who get
their living by making lace. Among those quoted in Devonshire as
interesting to compare with the present day are:—

"Coumbraligh 65, Sidmont 302, Axmouth 73, Sidbury 321,

Buckerall 90, Farway 70, Utpotery 118, Branscombe Beare and
Seaton 326, Honyton 1341, Axminster 60, Otery St. Mary, 814."

[1144]

Church Book of the Baptist Chapel of Lyme Regis.

[1145]

Colyton and Ottery St. Mary were among the first. Wherever the
say or serge decayed, the lace trade planted itself.

In the church of Colyton, under a fine canopied tomb, repose back

to back in most unsociable fashion the recumbent figures of Sir
John and Lady Pole. "Dame Elizabeth, daughter of Roger How,
merchant of London, ob. 1623," wears a splendid cape of three
rows of bone lace descending to the waist. Her cap is trimmed
with the same material. As this lace may be of Devonshire fabric,
we give a wood-cut of the pattern (Fig. 150).

Sundry Flemish names may still be seen above the shop-windows

of Colyton similar to those of Honiton—Stocker, Murch, Spiller,
Rochett, Boatch, Kettel, Woram, and others.
[1146]

Don Manuel Gonzales mentions "bone lace" among the

commodities of Devon.

[1147]

The lace manufacture now extends along the coast from the small
watering-place of Seaton, by Beer, Branscombe, Salcombe,
Sidmouth, and Ollerton, to Exmouth, including the Vale of Honiton
and the towns above mentioned.

[1148]

1753.

[1149]

Complete System of Geography. Emanuel Bowen, 1747.

This extract is repeated verbatim in England's Gazetteer, by Philip

Luckombe. London, 1790.

[1150]

Died 1398.

[1151]
The best réseau was made by hand with the needle, and was
much more expensive.
[1152]

Mrs. Aberdein, of Honiton, informed Mrs. Palliser that her father

often paid ninety-five guineas per lb. for the thread from Antwerp
(1869).

[1153]

The manner of payment was somewhat Phœnician, reminding one

of Queen Dido and her bargain. The lace ground was spread out
on the counter, and the worker herself desired to cover it with
shillings; and as many coins as found place on her work she
carried away as the fruit of her labour. The author once calculated
the cost, after this fashion, of a small lace veil on real ground, said
to be one of the first ever fabricated. It was 12 inches wide and 30
inches long, and, making allowance for the shrinking caused by
washing, the value amounted to £20, which proved to be exactly
the sum originally paid for the veil. The ground of this veil, though
perfect in its workmanship, is of a much wider mesh than was
made in the last days of the fabric. It was the property of Mrs.
Chick.

[1154]

"The last specimen of 'real' ground made in Devon was the

marriage veil of Mrs. Marwood Tucker. It was with the greatest
difficulty workers could be procured to make it. The price paid for
the ground alone was 30 guineas" (1869).

[1155]

With the desire of combining the two interests, her Majesty

ordered it to be made on the Brussels (machine-made) ground.

[1156]

Amaranth, Daphne, Eglantine, Lilac, Auricula, Ivy, Dahlia, Eglantine.

[1157]

The workers of Beer, Axmouth, and Branscombe, have always

been considered the best in the trade.

[1158]

Exposition Universelle de 1867. Rapport du Jury International,

"Dentelles," par Felix Aubry.

[1159]

For the encouragement of Agriculture, Arts, Manufactures, and

Commerce. The prizes were offered for the best Sprigs, Nosegays,
Borders for shawls, veils, or collars, Lappets, collars and cuffs,
Pocket-handkerchiefs, etc., "of good workmanship and design,
worked either in Flowers, Fruits, Leaves, or Insects, strictly
designed from nature." Three prizes were awarded for each
description of article. The Society also offered prizes for small
application sprigged veils, and for the best specimens of
braidwork, in imitation of Spanish point.

[1160]

Honiton Lace, by Mrs. Treadwin. London, 1874. Honiton Lace-

making, by Devonia, London, 1874.

[1161]

Lappets and scarfs were made of trolly lace from an early date.
Mrs. Delarey, in one of her letters, dated 1756, speaks of a "trolly
head." Trolly lace, before its downfall, has been sold at the
extravagant price of five guineas a yard.

[1162]

"Fifty years since Devonshire workers still make a 'Greek' lace, as

they termed it, similar to the 'dentelles torchons' so common
through the Continent. The author has seen specimens of this
fabric in a lace-maker's old pattern-book, once the property of her
mother" (Mrs. Palliser, 1869).
[1163]

Though no longer employed at lace-making, the boys in the

schools at Exmouth are instructed in crochet work (1869).

[1164]

Of Otterton.

[1165]

In Woodbury will be found a small colony of lace-makers who are

employed in making imitation Maltese or Greek lace, a fabric
introduced into Devon by order of her late Majesty the Queen
Dowager on her return from Malta. The workers copy these coarse
geometric laces with great facility and precision. Among the
various cheap articles to which the Devonshire workers have of
late directed their labours is the tape or braid lace, and the shops
of the country are now inundated with their productions in the
form of collars and cuffs (1869.)

[1166]

The Honiton pillows are rather smaller than those for

Buckinghamshire lace, and do not have the multiplicity of starched
coverings—only three "pill cloths," one over the top, and another
on each side of the lace in progress; two pieces of horn called
"sliders" go between to take the weight of the bobbins from
dragging the stitches in progress; a small square pin-cushion is on
one side, and stuck into the pillow is the "needle-pin"—a large
sewing needle in a wooden handle, and for picking up loops
through which the bobbins are placed. The pillow has to be
frequently turned round in the course of the work, so that no
stand is used, and it is rested against a table or doorway; and
formerly, in the golden days, in fine weather there would be rows
of workers sitting outside their cottages resting their "pills" against
the back of the chair in front.

The bobbins used in Honiton lace-making are delicately-fashioned

slender things of smooth, close-grained wood, their length
averaging about three and a half inches. They have no "gingles,"
and none of the carving and relief inlayings of the
Buckinghamshire and Bedfordshire bobbins; but some of them are
curiously stained with a brown pigment in an irregular pattern
resembling the mottlings of clouded bamboo or those of tortoise-
shell.
[1167]

"The author has visited many lace-schools in Devon, and though it

might be desired that some philanthropist would introduce the
infant school system of allowing the pupils to march and stretch
their limbs at the expiration of every hour, the children,
notwithstanding, looked ruddy as the apples in their native
orchards; and though the lace-worker may be less robust in
appearance than the farm-servant or the Cheshire milkmaid, her
life is more healthy far than the female operative in our northern
manufactories" (1875).

[1168]

"A good lace-maker easily earns her shilling a day, but in most
parts of Devonshire the work is paid by the truck system, many of
the more respectable shops giving one-half in money, the
remaining sixpence to be taken out in tea or clothing, sold often
considerably above their value. Other manufacturers—to their
shame, be it told—pay their workers altogether in grocery, and
should the lace-maker, from illness or any other cause, require an
advance in cash, she is compelled to give work to the value of
fourteen-pence for every shilling she receives. Some few houses
pay their workers in money" (1875).
[1169]

Medals were won at the Chicago World's Fair for Devonshire lace
by Mrs. Fowler and Miss Radford, of Sidmouth. The latter has also
received the freedom of the City of London for a beautiful lace fan,
her sprigs being the finest and most exquisite models of flowers
and birds it is possible to produce in lace. A third medal was won
by the Italian laces at Beer.

[1170]

Those held at Sidbury and Sidford are very successful, and the
children, ranging in age from, nine to fifteen, come regularly for
their "lace." It is interesting to watch the improvement in the work
of the "flys," the first lesson, and as a rule each child makes forty
to fifty before going on to anything further.

[1171]

At Beer, where fishing is the staple industry, in bad fish seasons

the women can earn more than the men; and at Honiton in the
hard winter of 1895 the lace-makers kept themselves and their
families, and were spared applying for relief—all honour to their
skill and self-helpfulness.

[1172]

"1539. Ane uther gowne of purpour satyne with ane braid

pasment of gold and silver," etc.

"Twa Spanye cloikis of black freis with ane braid pasment of gold
and silver."

"1542. Three peces of braid pasmentes of gold and silver."—

Inventories of the Royal Wardrobe and Jewel House. 1488-1606.
Edinb. 1815.
[1173]

1542. Same Inv.

[1174]

In the Inv. of the Earl of Huntley, 1511-12, there is mention of

dresses "passamenté d'or."

[1175]

Chap. X., note.

1537. James V. and Lord Somerville at Holyrood:—"Where are all

your men and attendants, my Lord?"

"Please, your Majesty, they are here"—pointing to the lace which

was on his son and two pages' dress. The King laughed heartily
and surveyed the finery, and bade him "Away with it all, and let
him have his stout band of spears again."

[1176]

Croft's Excerpta Antiqua.

The Countess of Mar, daughter of the first Duke of Lennox and

granddaughter by her mother's side to Marie Touchet. She was
daughter-in-law to the preceptress of James VI., and in 1593 had
the honour, at the baptism of Prince Henry, of lifting the child from
his bed and delivering him to the Duke of Lennox. A portrait of this
lady, in the high Elizabethan ruff, and with a "forepart" and tucker
of exquisite raised Venice point, hung (circ. 1870) in the drawing-
room of the late Miss Katherine Sinclair.

[1177]

"Une robe de velours vert couverté de Broderies, gimpeures, et

cordons d'or et d'argent, et bordée d'un passement de même.
"Une robe veluat cramoisi bandée de broderie de guimpeure
d'argent.

"Une robe de satin blanc chamarrée de broderie faite de

guimpeure d'or.

"Id. de satin jaune toute couverte de broderye gumpeure, etc.

"Robe de weloux noyr semée de geynpeurs d'or."—Inv. of

Lillebourg. 1561.
[1178]

"Chamarrée de bisette."—Inv. of Lillebourg. 1561.

"Ane rabbat of wolvin thread with passmentet with silver."

[1179]

Chap. III.

[1180]

See Lacis, Chap. II.

[1181]

See Needlework, Chap. I.

[1182]

Her lace ruffs Mary appears to have had from France, as we may
infer from a letter written by Walsingham, at Paris, to Burleigh,
when the Queen was captive at Sheffield Castle, 1578: "I have of
late granted a passport to one that conveyeth a box of linen to the
Queen of Scots, who leaveth not this town for three or four days. I
think your Lordship shall see somewhat written on some of the
linen contained in the same, that shall be worth the reading. Her
Majesty, under colour of seeing the fashion of the ruffes, may
cause the several parcels of the linen to be held to the fire,
whereby the writing may appear; for I judge there will be some
such matter discovered, which was the cause why I did the more
willingly grant the passport."
[1183]

In 1575.

[1184]

There was some demur about receiving the nightcaps, for

Elizabeth declared "that great commotions had taken place in the
Privy Council because she had accepted the gifts of the Queen of
Scots. They therefore remained for some time in the hands of La
Mothe, the ambassador, but were finally accepted."—Miss
Strickland.

[1185]

"Inventaire of our Soveraine Lord and his dearest moder. 1578."—

Record Office, Edinburgh.

[1186]

Records of Life, by Miss H. Pigott. 1839.

[1187]

Similar to the New Year's Gift of the Baroness Aletti to Queen

Elizabeth:—

"A veil of lawn cutwork flourished with silver and divers colours."—
Nichols' Royal Progresses.

[1188]

"Twa quaiffs ane of layn and uther of woving thread.

Ane quaiff of layn with twa cornettes sewitt with cuttit out werk of
gold and silver.

Twa pair of cornettes of layn sewitt with cuttit out werk of gold.

Ane wovin collar of thread passementit with incarnit and blew silk
and silver."—Inv. of 1578.
[1189]

"Ane rabbat of cuttit out werk and gold and cramoisie silk with the
handis (cuffs) thereof.

Ane rabbat of cuttit out werk of gold and black silk.

Ane rabbat of cuttit out werk with purpure silk with the handis of
the same."—Ibid.

[1190]

"Twa towell claiths of holane claith sewitt with cuttit out werk and
gold.

Four napkinnes of holane claith and cammaraye sewitt with cuttit

out werk of gold and silver and divers cullours of silk."—Ibid.

[1191]

Published by Prince Labanoff. "Recueil de Lettres de Marie Stuart."

T. vii., p. 247.

[1192]

Marriage Expenses of James VI., 1589. Published by the

Bannatyne Club.

[1193]
Accounts of the Great Chamberlain of Scotland. 1590.—Bannatyne
Club.
[1194]

In 1581, 1597, and 1621.

[1195]

The same privilege was extended to their wives, their eldest sons
with their wives, and their eldest daughters, but not to the
younger children.

[1196]

1633. In the Account of Expenses for the young Lord of Lorne, we

find:—

"2 ells Cambridg' at 8s. the ell for ruffles, 16s.

"2 ells of Perling at 30s., the uther at 33s. 4d., £3 3s. 4d."—Innes'
Sketches of Early Scotch History.

[1197]

January, 1686.

[1198]

"In 1701, when Mistress Margaret, daughter of the Baron of

Kilravock, married, 'flounced muslin and lace for combing cloths,'
appear in her outfit."—Innes' Sketches.

[1199]

In a pamphlet published 1702, entitled, An Accompt carried

between England and Scotland, alluding to the encouragement of
the yarn trade, the author says: "This great improvement can be
attested by the industry of many young gentlewomen that have
little or no portion, by spinning one pound of fine lint, and then
breaking it into fine flax and whitening it. One gentlewoman told
me herself that, by making an ounce or two of it into fine bone
lace, it was worth, or she got, twenty pounds Scots for that part of
it; and might, after same manner, five or eight pounds sterling out
of a pound of lint, that cost her not one shilling sterling. Now if a
law were made not to import any muslin (her Grace the Duchess
of Hamilton still wears our finest Scots muslin as a pattern to
others—she who may wear the finest apparel) and Holland lace, it
would induce and stir up many of all ranks to wear more fine
'Scots lace,' which would encourage and give bread to many
young gentlewomen and help their fortunes." Then, among the
products of Scotland by which "we may balance any nation," the
same writer mentions "our white thread, and making laces."

"On Tuesday, the 16th inst., will begin the roup of several sorts of
merchants' goods, in the first story of the Turnpyke, above the
head of Bells Wynd, from 9 to 12 and 2 till 5. 'White thread
lace.'"—Edinburgh Courant. 1706.
[1200]

See Chap. XXV., Queen Anne.

[1201]

Edinburgh Advertiser. 1764.

[1202]

1745. The following description of Lady Lovat, wife of the rebel

Simon, is a charming picture of a Scotch gentlewoman of the last
century:—

"When at home her dress was a red silk gown with ruffled cuffs
and sleeves puckered like a man's shirt, a fly cap of lace encircling
her head, with a mob cap laid across it, falling down on the
cheeks; her hair dressed and powdered; a lace handkerchief round
the neck and bosom (termed by the Scotch a Befong)—a white
apron edged with lace.... Any one who saw her sitting on her chair,
so neat, fresh, and clean, would have taken her for a queen in
wax-work placed in a glass case."—Heart of Midlothian.

Sir Walter Scott, whose descriptions are invariably drawn from

memory, in his Chronicles of the Canongate, describes the
dressing-room of Mrs. Bethune Balliol as exhibiting a superb mirror
framed in silver filigree-work, a beautiful toilet, the cover of which
was of Flanders lace.
[1203]

Heart of Midlothian.

[1204]

Statistical Account of Scotland. Sir John Sinclair. Edinburgh, 1792.

Vol. ii., 198.

[1205]

Edinburgh Amusement.

[1206]

1755. Premium £2 offered. "For the whitest, best, and finest lace,
commonly called Hamilton lace, and of the best pattern, not under
two yards in length and not under three inches in breadth."

[1207]

The Edinburgh Society did not confine their rewards to Hamilton

lace; imitation of Dresden, catgut lace, gold, silver, and even livery
lace, each met with its due reward.

1758. For imitation of lace done on catgut, for ruffles, a gold

medal to Miss Anne Cant, Edinburgh.

For a piece of livery lace done to perfection to J. Bowie, 2 guineas.

To W. Bowie for a piece of gold and silver lace, 2 guineas.
[1208]

1769. Pennant, in his Tour, mentions among the manufactures of

Scotland thread laces at Leith, Hamilton and Dalkeith.

[1209]

In 1762, Dec. 9, a schoolmistress in Dundee, among thirty-one

accomplishments in which she professes to instruct her pupils,
such as "waxwork, boning fowls without cutting the back," etc.,
enumerates, No. 21, "True point or tape lace," as well as "washing
Flanders lace and point."

Again, in 1764, Mr. and Mrs. Mitchell advertise in their boarding-

school "lacework and the washing of blonde laces; the pupils' own
laces washed and got up at home. Terms £24."

At Miss Glen's boarding-school in the Trunk Close, 1768, young

ladies are taught "white and coloured seam and washing of lace"—
gratis.

These lady-teachers were not appointed in Scotland without giving

due proofs of their capacity. In 1758 the magistrates and council
of Aberdeen, being unanimous as to the "strict morality, Dresden
work, modesty, and catgut lace-making," etc., of Miss Betsey
Forbes, elected her to the office of schoolmistress of the city.

In The Cottagers of Glenburnie a lady, Mrs. Mason, tells a long

story of the young laird having torn a suit of lace she was busied
in getting up.

[1210]

Edinburgh Advertiser.
[1211]

1774. "Several punds of badly-spun yarn was burnt by the stamp

master in Montrose." This announcement constantly occurs.

[1212]

About this period a Mr. Brotherton, of Leith, seems to have made a

discovery which was but a prelude to the bobbin net. It is thus
described in the Weekly Magazine of 1772:—"A new invention has
lately been discovered by Mr. Brotherton, in Leith, for working
black silk lace or white thread lace on a loom, to imitate any
pattern whatever, and the lace done in this way looks fully as well
as if sewed, and comes much cheaper. It is done any breadth,
from three inches to three-quarters of a yard wide."

[1213]

In 1775 Dallas, Barclay & Co., advertise a selling off of fine point,
Brussels thread, blond, and black laces of all kinds, silver double
edged lace, etc.—Edinburgh Advertiser.

1775. "Black blonde and thread laces, catguts of all sorts, just
arrived from the India House in London in the Canongate."—
Caledonian Mercury.

"Fashions for January; dresses trimmed with Brussels point or

Mignonette."—Ibid. Same year.

[1214]

"Madame Puteau carries on a lace manufacture after the manner

of Mechlin and Brussels. She had lately twenty-two apprentices
from the Glasgow Hospital.... Mrs. Puteau has as much merit in
this branch as has her husband in the making of fine thread. This
he manufactures of such a fineness as to be valued at £10 the
pound weight."—Essays on the Trade, Commerce, Manufactures,
Fisheries, etc., of Scotland. David Loch. 1778.
[1215]

"If you look at the wardrobes of your grandmother, you will

perceive what revolutions have happened in taste of mankind for
laces and other fineries of that sort. How many suits of this kind
do you meet with that cost amazing sums, which are now, and
have long since been, entirely useless. In our own day did we not
see that in one year Brussels laces are most in fashion and
purchased at any price, while the next perhaps they are entirely
laid aside, and French or other thread laces, or fine sewings, the
names of which I know not, highly prized."—Observations on the
National Industry of Scotland. Anderson. 1778.

[1216]

Lace-making at Hamilton is now a thing of the past, replaced in

the nineteenth century by a tambour network for veils, scarfs and
flounces.

[1217]

Essay on the Dress of the Early Irish. J. C. Walker. 1788.

[1218]

The Image of Irelande, by Jhon Derricke. 1578.

[1219]

In 1562. See Camden. Hist. Eliz.

[1220]

Henry VIII. 1537. Against Irish fashions. Not "to weare any shirt,
smock, kerchor, bendel, neckerchour, mocket, or linen cappe
colored or dyed with saffron," and not to use more than seven
yards of linen in their shirts or smocks.

[1221]
4 Edw. IV., Harl MSS. No. 1419. b.-g. 494.
[1222]

That lace ruffs soon appeared in Ireland may be proved by the

effigy on a tomb still extant in the Abbey of Clonard, in which the
Dillon arms are conspicuous, and also by paintings of the St.
Lawrence family, circ. 1511, preserved at Howth Castle.

In the portrait at Muckruss of the Countess of Desmond she is

represented with a lace collar. It was taken, as stated at the back
of the portrait, "as she appeared at the court of King James, 1614,
and in ye 140th year of her age." Thither she went to endeavour
to reverse the attainder of her house.

[1223]

At the end of the last century there lived at Creaden, near

Waterford, a lady of the name of Power, lineal descendant of the
kings of Munster, and called the Queen of Creaden. She affected
the dress of the ancient Irish. The border of her coif was of the
finest Irish-made Brussels lace; her jacket of the finest brown
cloth trimmed with gold lace; her petticoat of the finest scarlet
cloth bordered with a row of broad gold lace; all her dress was of
Irish manufacture.

[1224]

Gentleman's and Citizen's Almanack, by G. Watson. Dublin, 1757.

[1225]

"The freedom of the city of Dublin was also conferred upon her,
presented in due form in a silver box as a mark of esteem for her
great charities and constant care of the Foundling children in the
city workhouse."—Dublin Freeman's Journal, July 30th, 1765.

[1226]
Gentleman's and Citizen's Almanack, by Samuel Watson. 1773.
[1227]

"The Lady Arabella Denny died 1792, aged 85; she was second
daughter of Thomas Fitzmaurice, Earl of Kerry. The Irish Academy,
in acknowledgment of her patriotic exertions, offered a prize of
100 guineas for the best monody on her death. It was gained by
John Macaulay, Esq."—Dublin Freeman's Journal, July 20th, 1766.

[1228]

Wakefield writes in 1812: "Lace is not manufactured to a large

extent in Ireland. I saw some poor children who were taught
weaving by the daughters of a clergyman, and Mr. Tighe mentions
a school in Kilkenny where twelve girls were instructed in the art.
At Abbey-leix there is a lace manufacture, but the quantity made is
not of any importance."—Account of Ireland. Statistical and
Political. Edw. Wakefield. 1812.

[1229]

Pall Mall Gazette, May 8th, 1897.

[1230]

Walker was a man of literary and artistic tastes, and educated for
the Church, but, marrying the daughter of a lace-manufacturer, he
set up in that business in Essex, working for the London wholesale
trade. He removed next to Limerick, where he continued till 1841,
when he sold the business, but his successor becoming bankrupt,
he never received the purchase money, and died 1842, his
ingenuity and industry ill-rewarded. In some work (we have lost
the reference) it is stated that "Coggeshall, in Essex, made a
tambour lace, a sort of medium between lace and embroidery."
Could this be Walker's manufacture?

[1231]
In 1855 the number of workers employed numbered 1,500. In
1869 there were less than 500. In 1869 Mrs. Palliser writes of the
tambour lace industry: "The existing depression of the trade has
been partly caused by the emigration of girls to America and the
colonies, while glove-making and army clothing employ the rest;
and indeed the manufacture aiming only at cheapness had
produced a lace of inferior quality, without either novelty or beauty
of design, from which cause Limerick lace has fallen into
disrepute."
[1232]

No account of Limerick lace would be complete which does not

make some reference to the work of the Sisters of Mercy at
Kinsale, Co. Cork, where so much is now being done to revive
those industries which were originally started with the object of
coping with the famine of 1846. This revival is largely due to Mr. A.
S. Cole, who originally suggested the establishment of an art class
in connection with South Kensington, with Mr. Brennar, of the Cork
School of Art, as its master. The studio is in connection with the
workroom, which secures constant touch between the designing,
alteration, and adaptation of patterns and their execution. (Pall
Mall Gazette, May 8th, 1897.)

[1233]

Various schools have been established throughout Ireland. Lady de

Vere taught the mistress of a school on her own demesne at
Curragh, Co. Limerick, the art of making application flowers, giving
her own Brussels lace as patterns. The work was so good as soon
to command a high price, and the late Queen of the Belgians
actually purchased a dress of it at Harding's, and took it back with
her to Brussels, The fabric is known by the name of "Irish" or
"Curragh point."

The school set up at Belfast by the late Jane Clarke exhibited in

1851 beautiful imitations of the old Spanish and Italian points;
amongst others a specimen of the fine raised Venetian point,
which can scarcely be distinguished from the original. It is now in
the Vict. and Albert Museum (1869).
[1234]

From the tradition that a Jesuit procured the first Venetian lace
pattern used in Ireland.

[1235]

It was in the famine period that the Rector of Headford, Co.

Galway, brought about a revival of the pillow lace, which was
known to a few women in the county—taught, according to the
tradition, by a soldier from foreign parts at some unknown date.
This work is now reviving, thanks to the energetic care of Mrs.
Dawson.

[1236]

Mr. A. S. Cole gives the following classification of Irish laces:—

There are seven sorts of Irish lace.

1. Flat needle-point lace.

2. Raised needle-point lace.

3. Embroidery on net, either darning or chain-stitch.

4. Cut cambric or linen work in the style of guipure or appliqué

lace.

5. Drawn thread-work in the style of Reticella, and Italian cut

points.

6. Pillow lace in imitation of Devon lace.

7. Crochet.
[1237]

History of Machine-Wrought Hosiery and Lace Manufacture. W.

Felkin. London, 1867.

[1238]

See Germany.

[1239]

An open stitch on stockings, called the "Derby rib," had been

invented by Jedediah Strutt, in 1758.

[1240]

By Rev. William Lee, of Calverton (Nottinghamshire). The romantic

story is well known; but whether actuated, as usually stated, by
pique at the absorbing attention paid to her knitting by a lady,
when he was urging his suit—or, as others more amiably affirm, by
a desire to lighten the labour of his wife, who was obliged to
contribute to their joint support by knitting stockings—certain it is
that it was he who first conceived the idea of the stocking-frame,
and completed it about 1589. His invention met with no support
from Queen Elizabeth, so Lee went to France, where he was well
received by Henry IV.; but the same year Henry was assassinated,
and the Regent withdrawing her protection, Lee died of grief and
disappointment. The arms of the Framework Knitters' Company
(Fig. 162) are a stocking-frame, having for supporters William Lee
in full canonicals and a female holding in her hand thread and a
knitting-needle. After Lee's death his brother returned to England,
where Lee's invention was then appreciated. Stocking-making
became the fashion, everyone tried, it, and people had their
portraits taken with gold and silver needles suspended round their
necks.

[1241]
Vandyke had also appended the chain to his stocking-frame, and
the zigzags formed by the ribs of his stockings were called
"Vandyke," hence the term now generally applied to all indented
edges.
[1242]

Mechlin net was disused in 1819 from its too great elasticity.

[1243]

The "bobbins" on which the thread is wound for the weft consist
of two circular copper plates riveted together, and fixed upon a
small carriage or frame which moves backwards and forwards like
a weaver's shuttle.

[1244]

The Old Loughboro' employed sixty movements to form one mesh

—a result now obtained by twelve. It produced 1,000 meshes a
minute—then thought a wonderful achievement, as by the pillow
only five or six can be obtained. A good circular machine now
produces 30,000 in the same time.

The quality of bobbin net depends upon the smallness of the

meshes, their equality in size, and the regularity of the hexagons.

[1245]

Bobbin net is measured by the "rack," which consists of 240

meshes. This mode of counting was adopted to avoid the frequent
disagreements about measure which arose between the master
and the workmen in consequence of the elasticity of the net. The
exchange of linen to cotton thread was the source of great regret
to the Roman Catholic clergy, who by ecclesiastical law can only
wear albs of flax.

[1246]
This association was formed by Ludlam, or General Ludd, as he
was called, a stocking-frame worker at Nottingham in 1811, when
prices had fallen. The Luddites, their faces covered with a black
veil, armed with swords and pistols, paraded the streets at night,
entered the workshops, and broke the machines with hammers. A
thousand machines were thus destroyed. Soon the net-workers
joined them and made a similar destruction of the bobbin net
machines. Although many were punished, it was only with the
return of work that the society disappeared in 1817.
[1247]

Heathcoat represented Tiverton from 1834 to 1859, colleague of

Lord Palmerston.

Steam power was first introduced by Mr. J. Lindley in 1815-16, but

did not come into active operation till 1820; it became general
1822-23.

[1248]

McCulloch.

[1249]

The most extraordinary changes took place in the price of the

finished articles. Lace which was sold by Heathcoat for 5 guineas a
yard soon after the taking out of his patent can now be equalled
at eighteenpence a yard; quillings, as made by a newly-
constructed machine in 1810, and sold at 4s. 6d., can now be
equalled and excelled at 1½d. a yard; while a certain width of net
which brought £17 per piece 20 years ago is now sold for 7s.
(1843). Progressive value of a square yard of plain cotton bobbin
net:

£ s. s. d.
1809 5 0 1830 2 0
 1813 2 0 1833 1 4
1815 1 10 1836 0 10
1818 1 0 1842 0 6
1821 0 12 1850 0 4
1824 0 8 1856 0 3
1827 0 4 1862 0 3

Histoire du Tulle et des Dentelles mécaniques en Angleterre et en

France, par S. Ferguson fils. Paris, 1862.

"Bobbin net and lace are cleaned from the loose fibres of the
cotton by the ingenious process of gassing, as it is called, invented
by the late Mr. Samuel Hall, of Nottingham. A flame of gas is
drawn through the lace by means of a vacuum above. The sheet
of lace passes to the flame opaque and obscured by loose fibre,
and issues from it bright and clear, not to be distinguished from
lace made of the purest linen thread, and perfectly uninjured by
the flame."—Journal of the Society of Arts. Jan., 1864.
[1250]

In 1826 Mr. Huskisson's reduction of the duty on French tulle

caused so much distress in Leicester and Nottingham, that ladies
were desired to wear only English tulle at court; and in 1831
Queen Adelaide appeared at one of her balls in a dress of English
silk net.

[1251]

John Hindres, in 1656, first established a stocking-frame in France.

[1252]

The net produced was called "Tulle simple et double de Lyon et de

Vienne." The net was single loops, hence the name of "single
press," given to these primitive frames.
[1253]

In 1801 George Armitage took a "point net" machine to Antwerp,

and made several after the same model, thus introducing the
manufacture into Belgium. He next went to Paris, but the
wholesale contraband trade of Hayne left him no hope of success.
He afterwards went to Prussia to set up net and stocking
machines. At the age of eighty-two he started for Australia, where
he died, in 1857, aged eighty-nine.

[1254]

The great difficulty encountered by the French manufacturers

consisted in the cotton. France did not furnish cotton higher than
No. 70; the English ranges from 160 to 200. The prohibition of
English cotton obliged them to obtain it by smuggling until 1834,
when it was admitted on paying a duty. Now they make their own,
and are able to rival Nottingham in the prices of their productions.
A great number of Nottingham lace-makers have emigrated to
Calais.

[1255]

The Caen blond first suggested the idea.

[1256]

The first net frame was set up at Brussels in 1801. Others followed
at Termonde, 1817; Ghent, 1828; Sainte Fosse, etc.

[1257]

D. Wyatt.

[1258]

Mr. Ferguson, the inventor of the bullet-hole, square net (tulle

carré), and wire-ground (point de champ ou de Paris), had
transferred his manufacture, in 1838, from Nottingham to
Cambrai, where, in partnership with M. Jourdan, he made the
"dentelle de Cambrai," and in 1852 the "lama" lace, which differs
from the Cambrai inasmuch as the weft (trame) is made of mohair
instead of silk. Mr. Ferguson next established himself at Amiens,
where he brought out the Yak, another mixed lace.
[1259]

The first patents were:—

1836. Hind and Draper took out one in France, and 1837 in
England.

1838. Ferguson takes a patent at Cambrai under the name of his

partner Jourdan.

1839. Crofton.

1841. Houston and Deverill, for the application of the Jacquard to

the Leaver machine. The great manufactures of Nottingham and
Calais are made on the Leaver Jacquard frame.

The first patterned net was produced, 1780, by E. Frost, the

embroidery made by hand.

[1260]

Cantor Lectures on the Art of Lace-Making. A. S. Cole. 1880.

[1261]

"The machines now in use are the Circular, Leaver, Transverse

Warp and Pusher. Out of 3,552 machines computed to be in
England in 1862 2,448 were at Nottingham."—International
Exhibition, Juror's Report.

[1262]
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