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in less danger. On Sunday attended the Presbyterian church here. The
pastor, an amiable and very pious old man, was to preach his last sermon to-
day, the people having grown too wise for their teachers. His morning
discourse from the text, “Christ commended his love to us in that while we
were yet sinners,” etc.,—a very good sermon. In the afternoon his farewell
discourse was from Acts xx. 32, and did honor to his heart. (The stage is
ready.) At twilight I in fancy transported myself to 30 MacDougal Street,
where yourself, the doctor, and the children were singing your evening
hymns. I sang to myself, as well as I could, all the hymns you were singing,
as I supposed, and wished myself with you. This morning I have been
botanizing, and have cured for the doctor some specimens (clusters of
Eshcol) of this goodly land. So be prepared for a very favorable report. My
pen is abominable, and I have not another moment.
                            (Detroit), 8.30, Monday evening, August 20.
    A pleasant afternoon ride brought me back again to this place, where my
first care was to run to the post office, nothing doubting that I should find a
letter; but I was wofully disappointed, and yet it is the 20th of the month!
This is too bad. Do beseech the doctor to write; and especially if I should be
detained here until the fourth or fifth day of next month, as I fear may be
necessary, ask him to write every other day until you hear from me again.
    I am glad to get back here again on one account. The fare here, which is
no great matter, I assure you, is excellent compared with the hotel at Ann
Arbor. Indeed, I have not taken my place at a single dinner-table for ten
days without being reminded of Charles Lamb and his memorable essay on
Roast Pig. Here he might riot in his favorite dish (which is in my opinion
wretched stuff), as one of the aforesaid juvenile quadrupeds, with a sprig of
parsley in his mouth, has been regularly presented to my eyes ever since I
left the State of New York. I am sadly bothered as to the course I should
take. I suppose I might be able to leave here on Thursday of this week, and,
staying over Sabbath at Oswego (making no stay at the Falls), arrive at my
father’s Tuesday evening, and at New York on Friday morning. But before I
could reach New York, Mr. Davis, according to his appointment, would be
at Detroit, and it is possible that a very few days would enable us to settle
almost everything about the arrangement of the grounds, the internal
disposition of the university building, and the plan of professors’ houses. I
feel so strong a hope that the doctor will be persuaded to take a
professorship that I have fixed upon the place for his house, should my plan
for the arrangement of the grounds be adopted. And I am very desirous to
return to you with the plans in my hands, that I may submit them to Dr. T.,
Prof. Henry, etc., in time to correct our mistakes and suggest improvements.
I see also that if I leave now (although I have explained that I made
arrangements on leaving to be back by the first of September, and that it is
very necessary I should return by that time), I should lose much of the
influence I have acquired, and it is more than probable that some error
would be committed that we should not see in time to rectify.
   I am anxious that the proper means should be adopted to supply the
university and houses with water in abundance, and at such a level that it
can be taken into the second story of the professors’ houses; I think you
may imagine one reason why I am so solicitous about this matter. I was
pleased to find on my arrival here that this subject had already received
much attention, and there is a determination, on the part of nearly all the
regents I have conversed with, to effect this object at whatever expense. Of
the different plans in contemplation only one, I think, will effectually
answer the purpose. I have some hope that the subject will be acted upon at
the first meeting after Mr. Davis arrives. Before that time I suspect we shall
not be able to secure the quorum necessary for the transaction of this and
other matters of business. I hope also to secure an appropriation for the
library, and philosophical and chemical apparatus. I feel pretty confident of
accomplishing this result by early autumn.
   This is my last entire sheet of large paper, so you may expect no more
such tedious letters, unless I find more like it. But if I do not hear from you,
and that speedily, I shall be very unhappy. Ask Dr. T. to open any letters that
may have come from Norfolk or Washington, and apprise me of the
contents, or take any steps that become necessary. Adieu, my dear friend.
May our Heavenly Father bless and keep you and yours is the sincere
prayer of your attached,
                                                                    A. Gray.
                            TO DR. TROWBRIDGE.
                                     New York, October 1, 1838.
   Dear Doctor,—My arrangements are now so far completed that I may
say, with as much confidence as we may speak of any event subject to
ordinary contingencies, that I hope to sail for London on the first of next
month. I am of course hard at work; there is no need to tell you that. The
second part of “Flora” we hope, by hard work, to have published about the
20th inst.
                                                           Yours truly,
                                                              A. Gray.
                              TO HIS FATHER.
                                          New York, November 7, 1838.
    I expect to sail to-morrow for Liverpool in the packet-ship Pennsylvania,
unless the weather should prove unfavorable, which is not unlikely. The
sailing has already been postponed one day, much to my relief, as, although
I have not taken off my clothes for two nights, I am not yet quite ready. I
hope to get everything in order before I sleep. You can write to me readily
at any time.
    I have worked very hard for a few weeks past, but I shall now have a
fine time to rest. I am in very good health and spirits.
    Mrs. Torrey has a fine boy a few weeks old, and is doing well. Kind
remembrances to all, in haste,
                                                                 Good-by,
                                                                    A. G.
                              TO HIS MOTHER.
                                 Ship Pennsylvania, 9th November, 1838.
    My Dear Mother,—These few lines will be sent on shore in a few
minutes by the pilot, and will soon reach you. We shall be out of sight of
land in less than two hours more, with a fine breeze. The ship has some
motion, but I am not at all sick yet. We have a fine ship and every prospect
of a speedy voyage. I shall write at once from Liverpool. Good-by again to
all. Letters are called for. Good-by; remember me in your prayers.
                                                   Your affectionate son,
                                                                A. Gray.
                             CHAPTER III.
                         FIRST JOURNEY IN EUROPE.
                                   1838-1839.
It has been deemed expedient to give a somewhat fuller narrative of Dr.
Gray’s first visit to Europe than of his subsequent ones. It was then that he
formed many personal acquaintances which ripened into lifelong
friendships, and received his first impressions of scenes in nature and art
which were to become very familiar. His letters home took the form of a
very detailed journal, and it is in extracts from this journal, supplemented
by letters to other friends, that this narrative consists.
                                   JOURNAL.
                    Adelphi Hotel, Liverpool, 12 M., December 1, 1838.
   We came up the Channel with a gentle breeze, and anchored at half-past
nine. At ten minutes past ten I set my feet on the soil (or rather the stone) of
Old England. We were very fortunate in our ship, having made our voyage
in twenty-one days; while the England (in which, you may remember, I
once had intended to sail), which left New York on the first of November,
came to anchor just ten minutes before us (thirty days). The Garrick, which
sailed on the twenty-fifth of October, arrived here only on Saturday. I must
close this letter early in the morning....
   Evening.—This short English day has been occupied in good part in
getting my luggage from the ship and through the custom house. I sallied
out a little past nine in the morning; went first of all to a tailor and ordered a
coat (which is to be finished and delivered this evening); then dispatched
my letters for home by the United States; found our own ship just going
into dock (what docks they are! but as we have always plenty of water we
do not so much need them in New York); arranged my luggage, and then
proceeded all hands to the custom house (a large new building, rather
imposing in appearance), where I was detained until past three o’clock. I
had fifteen pounds of books to pay duty upon (fifteen shillings), and
nothing to complain of as to the manner of the examination.... After dinner,
visited the market, which on Saturday evening is full and busy. It is about
twice the size of all the New York markets put together, and a sight well
worth seeing. I examined everything scrutinizingly, but will not trouble you
with my observations....
    Sunday evening, December 2.—Went this morning to the chapel of the
school for the blind. The chanting and singing was very fine, and the sight
an interesting one. But to me the solemnity of the church service is by no
means increased by being chanted; heard a tolerable sermon. In the evening
heard Dr. Raffles.[36] His chapel is a gloomy structure externally, but very
neat and comfortable within. Dr. R. preached the first of a series of
discourses “On the most remarkable events in the early history of the
Israelites,” commencing with the bondage in Egypt, which was the subject
this evening; a very good sermon, delivered in an impressive (but rather
pompous) manner. I am very anxious to get to Glasgow. I have been living
in society, for the last three weeks, by no means to my taste, and most of
them are still here. It is not very pleasant to spend a Sabbath alone at a
hotel; but I suppose I must needs become accustomed to it.
    I was not fully aware, until yesterday, how much cause we had for
thankfulness at our safe arrival. The gales which we encountered off the
Irish coast have caused a great number of shipwrecks, and it is feared that
many lives are lost. The England escaped most narrowly.
    Feather’s Inn, Chester, Monday evening.—I have, my dear friend, the
singular pleasure of writing and addressing to you another leaf of my
journal from a city which was founded, according to the directory which
lies before me, “in the year, 917 B.C., at which time Jehosaphat and Ahab
governed Israel and Judah,”—the only walled and fortified city in England
of which the walls are yet in a state of preservation. The city was rebuilt by
Julius Cæsar, and was an important Roman station; and there yet remain
many vestiges of Roman occupancy; a hypocaust is still to be seen under
the hotel in which I am now staying,—so it is said, for I have not yet seen
it, having arrived here after dark. But I expect to be very much interested in
this queer old town, for which I owe thanks to Dr. Torrey, since it was his
recommendation that induced me to come here. I have scampered about the
streets this evening, bought some lithographic views, studied the directory,
and am prepared for a busy day between Chester and Eaton Hall, should I
live till to-morrow. But it is time I should tell you briefly how I got here.
This morning soon after breakfast I walked out to the Botanic Garden,
delivered a note of introduction to Shepherd,[37] who received me rather
politely, inquired after Dr. Torrey, and showed me through the greenhouses.
The establishment is not where it was when Dr. T. was here, but was
removed further out of town, two or three years ago. The garden occupies
eleven acres; the site is well chosen; but being newly planted there is of
course little to see. The hothouses are very well, but not extensive; the
collections not particularly interesting, except for some old plants that have
belonged to the establishment many years.
   I took my cloak and umbrella (necessary articles these!), and at 3 P.M.
crossed the Mersey in a small uncomfortable black steamboat, about as
much inferior to our Hoboken or Brooklyn ferry-boats as a Barnegat wood-
schooner is to a packet-ship; and at Birkenhead took an outside seat for
Chester (ten miles), though it rained often and blew hard and cold; had a
good view of the country until about five miles from Chester, when it grew
dark; saw little villages, farm-houses and cottages, cows, etc., all of which
is much more interesting to me than the smoky town of Liverpool. I have
seen several little things that are new to me. Let us see what I can recollect
at the moment. Hedges of holly—those I am pleased with, particularly
when sheared and clipped. The prettiest fence is a stone wall over-topped
with a close hedge of holly. Ivy in profusion covering great walls, trees,
etc., etc.,—we have nothing to compare with it; a flock of rooks,—very like
crows, but larger; an English stagecoach,—more of that anon; a coach and
four with postilions,—fine. But I must stop here.
   P. S.—Liverpool again, Tuesday evening.—I have accomplished a good
day’s work to-day. Rose early, made the circuit of the city of Chester on the
walls before breakfast, explored all about the town; visited the cathedral,
walked to Eaton Hall, four miles and back again; and then, finding there
was no coach in the morning until nine o’clock, took an evening coach, and
returned here ten P.M., much gratified, but a little fatigued; so good-night. A.
G.
                   Glasgow (Woodside Crescent), December 12, 1838.
   I do not just now feel like a traveler. I have been for almost a week, if
not at home, yet the next thing to it, in the truly hospitable mansion of our
good friends here, where I was received with that cordial kindness which
you, having experienced before me, can well understand. Indeed I owe it
chiefly to you, who I assure you are not forgotten here. Ecce signum. Both
Sir William and Lady Hooker call me, oftener than anything else, by the
name of Dr. Torrey. I answer to the name promptly, and am much flattered
to be your representative.
   I have just stuck fast here, busy among the plants from morning till
night. I have been out of the house but twice (except to church on Sunday):
once a walk into town with Mr. Hooker, Senior (kind and amiable old man,
who insists upon taking me about, and showing me whatever he showed
you), and once with Sir William to the Botanic Garden. I am anxious to
improve every moment here, where there is so much to be done and such
ample means. Arnott has written, inviting me to spend some time with him,
which I hope to do, visiting him from Edinburgh, there being now no coach
to Stirling or Kinross, from Glasgow direct.... Sir William has given me
many interesting plants; we have settled many points of interest. He had our
new Nuttallia all figured for the Supplement to “Flora Borealis Americana”
as a new genus, and we have recently found it among plants from the Snake
country, which, with Douglas’s and other Californian plants, he is
publishing as a supplement to “Beechey’s Voyage.” I begged him to adopt
the name Nuttallia. He offered at once to publish it as of Torrey and Gray,
but I would not consent to this, and I am sure you would agree with me. He
has in different ways a great share of Nuttall’s so far,—Pickeringia for
instance (which is a shrubby Baptisia), Kentrophyta, etc. I shall be kept here
ten days longer, I think; no one else abroad is so rich in North American
botany or takes so much interest in it. I am requested to study all his
Sandwich Island plants (including my own parcel here), and make an article
for the “Annals of Natural History” while here. I think I will, if on looking
over the parcels I think I can do the subject justice. Can’t Knieskern[38]
safely make the excursion to Sante Fé in the coming spring? If he can, and
will work hard, he will make $1000 clear of expenses! All the collectors
make money. Hooker is very anxious about it. I hope to find the fifty copies
of “Flora” at Wiley & Putnam’s on reaching London. I hope you have seen
the partner at New York on the subject, and that the “Flora” will be
advertised fully in London before I reach there. But I must close. Don’t fail
to write very often. Sir William and Lady Hooker and all the family, old,
young, and middle-aged, all send their most affectionate regards. I sit over
against your portrait at dinner. It is very like you....
                             TO JOHN TORREY.
                         Kinross, Wednesday evening, January 2, 1839.
    My journal will inform you of all my movements and doings, and also of
the arrival of your welcome letter by the Liverpool, while I remained at Sir
William’s. I am much distressed at the thought of your anticipated
engagements with Princeton, and wish very much that you could have felt
yourself warranted in delaying until after the expected meeting of the
regents of the Michigan university, which was to take place on the 10th of
December. While there is the slightest hope remaining I do not like to
relinquish the thought that we may hereafter work together and live near
each other. The fear that this may not be the case has of late rendered me
much more anxious to obtain books and specimens, in order that I may get
on by myself in case I shall be compelled to work alone. I need not attempt
to tell you how much I have enjoyed my visit to Hooker. He is truly one of
Nature’s noblemen. We worked very hard for twenty days, and I would
have been glad to have stayed as much longer; for as yet I have looked into
few books. All the collections of Carex placed in Boott’s hands have been
returned to Hooker, and I assisted him in arranging them and selecting for
his herbarium; in the course of which I have obtained specimens of nearly
all the Northern and Oregonian ones, including one or two which have
come in recently, of which I have, when there were duplicates, specimens
also for you. The return numbers of those sent you were in many cases
strangely misplaced, and Boott has often been sadly confounded. He has
studied the genus very critically, hypercritically I may say; for he makes
new species where we should think there were too many already. We went
over Hooker’s Grasses in the same way, and I have obtained numerous
specimens and much useful information which we shall presently require.
On Christmas day Joseph Hooker selected from a large Van Dieman’s Land
collection a suite of specimens as far as they have been studied (to
Calycifloræ), in which there is in almost every instance a specimen for each
of us....
    In looking over the recent collections from the Snake country, and
Douglas’s Californian, I recognized a great portion of Nuttall’s,[39] but by
no means all. There was a single specimen of Kentrophyta in excellent fruit;
another of Astrophia, with neither flower or fruit, collected long ago by
Scouler and mixed in with a species of Hosackia, to which genus I am not
sure that it is not nearly allied. Nuttall has made too many Hosackias! The
copy of “Flora,” with my notes, has gone round to London, so that I cannot
now communicate many curious things noted in the second part. But how
did we overlook the Hosackia crassifolia twice over! I am glad you have the
fruit of Chapmannia. I am a little afraid of Stylosanthes, of which there is a
sort of monograph by Vogel in the current volume of the “Linnæa;” but no
plurifoliate ones appear. Hooker has a curious new genus of
Chenopodiaceæ, from the Rocky Mountains, figured for the “Icones,”
which he wishes to call Grayia! I am quite content with a Pig-weed; and
this is a very queer one.
    At Glasgow, although my stay was prolonged to twenty days, I was
unable in that time to accomplish all I wished with Hooker; and you may be
sure we lost no time, and that I could spare very little to visit those objects
of interest passing by. I did not omit, however, as you may well suppose, to
visit the High Church (the old Cathedral), where I spent an interesting hour,
having contrived to go there alone that I might enjoy myself in my own
way. From this I visited the new cemetery, which occupies the summit of a
hill adjacent to and overlooking the Cathedral. On the very summit, raised
on a tall column, is a colossal figure of old John Knox in the attitude of
preaching, but ever and anon he seems to cast a scowling look down upon
the Cathedral, as if he were inclined to make another attempt to demolish its
walls. And well he might, for if what I hear be true, I fancy he would find
the preaching now heard within its walls almost as destitute of savor as
when the shrine of the Virgin Mary occupied its place in the chapel which
bears her name. The Cathedral is now undergoing some repairs; the seats,
etc., for the church which occupied the nave are taken away, so that the fine
nave presents nearly the original appearance. But the crypt, said to be the
finest in the kingdom, is now closed and the key in the possession of an
architect at Edinburgh, so that I could not obtain admittance. It was in this
place, perchance you may recollect, that the first meeting of Rob Roy with
Osbaldistone took place. My Scotch reminiscences have been greatly
revived to-day. To-day I have for the first time seen and tasted—only tasted
—the two Scotch national dishes, viz., singed sheep’s head and a haggis!
    I had arranged to leave Glasgow on the morning after Christmas, when
Sir William insisted on my staying at least over Wednesday to sit for my
portrait! I contrived, however, to sit on Tuesday (Christmas day), when I
was done in about four hours, in the same style as Sir William’s other
botanical portraits, and with so much success that it was unanimously
proclaimed to be a most striking likeness; in fact the most successful of all
the artist’s attempts are said to be this and that of Dr. Torrey, by whose side,
it seems, I am destined to be suspended!—a compliment with which I may
well feel highly gratified. I believe it is a capital likeness.
    I dined out only once at Glasgow, at the house of Mr. Davidson, a very
rich don who has made all his money in business here.
    Late in the day I went into town to secure a place in the early coach for
Stirling and also a bed for the night, as well as to select some little
Christmas presents for the Misses Hooker. In the evening Sir William had
several friends to dinner, and soon after the breaking up of the evening
party I took my leave of these kind friends with no small regret; my
contemplated visit of ten days has been prolonged to just twice that number.
And now, as we have fairly bid adieu to the old year, I must also bid good-
by to you for the present, wishing you, not as the mere compliment of the
season, but with all my heart and soul,—a happy New Year. The last New
Year I well remember; several of its predecessors also I have had the
pleasure of spending with you. I pray God we may be preserved and have a
happy meeting before another new year comes.
                                  JOURNAL.
                           Kinross, Wednesday Evening, January 2, 1839.
   I left Glasgow at seven o’clock A.M. on the morning of the 26th
December, on the top of a stage-coach bound for Stirling, so famous in song
and story,—distant about thirty miles from Glasgow. I arrived about half
past ten, in the midst of a heavy rain.
   On leaving Stirling for Perth, I took an inside place, as the storm still
continued, but it shortly cleared up, and I rode on the outside nearly the
whole journey. The only place worth noticing, or rather which I have time
to notice, through which we passed was Dumblane, which is just one of
those dirty Scotch villages which defy description. If “Jessie the flower of
Dumblane” lived in one of these comfortless and wretched hovels I’ll
warrant her charms are much overpraised in the song. Here I saw for the
first time a genuine ruin; that of the large and once important Cathedral,
founded in 1142. During the short-lived establishment of Episcopacy in
Scotland I think that the good Leighton was for a time rector of Dumblane.
Just beyond Dumblane we passed the field of Sheriff-muir, and beyond this,
at the little village of Ardoch, I passed, without being aware at the time, the
finest and most entire Roman camp in Britain; we passed some fine
country-seats on the road; had a long way the distant Grampian Hills, on
which “my father fed his flocks,” in full view; and somewhat late in a fine
moonlight evening, I arrived at Perth. As the stage which passed Arlary left
Perth at nine o’clock in the morning, and I could not afford to spend a day
here, I of course saw little of this famous town.... A pleasant ride brought
me to Arlary at eleven o’clock A.M., and Arnott was by the roadside
awaiting my arrival. I was sorry to learn that he is not a general favorite
among his brother botanists; but although most of them possess greater
advantages, he has but one superior in Great Britain, and in most
departments very few equals. He received me with great kindness, and I
have spent a few days with him very pleasantly indeed. He is a hearty, good
fellow, and improves vastly on acquaintance. I was exceedingly pleased
with Mrs. Arnott, who is exceedingly amiable and lively. On Sunday it
stormed terribly, so that we were unable to leave the house. On Tuesday I
dined with Mr. and Mrs. Arnott, Mr. Wemyss, the clergyman of the parish,
another clergyman, etc., at Mr. Barclay’s, Arnott’s father-in-law, about six
miles from Arlary. About one o’clock to-day, taking leave of Mrs. A. I rode
with Arnott to Kinross, and leaving Arnott to write some letters at the hotel
in the mean time, I took a boat to Loch Leven Castle,—the prison of the
lovely and ill-fated Mary Queen of Scots....
    On returning to the hotel I found that Arnott had picked up the dominie
of his parish, and had our dinner in readiness. The expected coach arrived
soon after, but was crowded. I am consequently obliged to wait for the mail
which passes about two o’clock in the morning, and by which, if I am so
fortunate as to obtain a seat, I may expect to reach Edinburgh before
daybreak.
                                          Waterloo Hotel, Edinburgh,
                                      Thursday evening, January. 3, 1839.
    This is my first day in Auld Reekie; and my first business, on sitting
down by my quiet and comfortable fireside, shall be to give you a brief
account of this day’s work. After taking a reasonable modicum of tea I
spent the whole of last evening at Kinross in writing, until two o’clock, at
which hour the mail-coach punctually made its appearance; and there was
fortunately room inside. We drew up at the post office at Edinburgh at half
past six in the morning (raining as usual). I took possession of a very
comfortable, even elegant room, very different from the six feet by nine
bedrooms of most hotels. This is the finest hotel I have yet seen; the
Adelphi at Liverpool is not to be mentioned in comparison. I threw myself
on the bed and slept for an hour or two. On waking I drew up the curtains of
my windows, and had all at once a magnificent view of this picturesque
city, which startled me. From descriptions and a few prints I have
somewhere seen I find I had formed a very correct view of this city, as far
as it went. It is the finest town I have seen or expect soon to see. It owes
much of its beauty to its peculiar site, and to the manner in which the old
town acts as a foil to the new. Immediately after breakfast I sallied forth,
walked down the street, uncertain which of my letters of introduction I
should first attempt to deliver; decided for Greville;[40] so I crossed the
North Bridge, which is thrown not over a river but over a part of the town,
into the old town, crossed High Street, passed the huge block of buildings
occupied by the university, plain and heavy without, but the spacious court
within very imposing; and a few minutes’ walk brought me to Dr. Greville’s
residence, which looks in front upon a large public square, and on the other
the green fields extend up almost to the house,—a complete rus in urbe. Dr.
Greville received me very kindly, and seemed well pleased to receive Dr.
Torrey’s letter; made many affectionate inquiries, and urged me to stay with
him while I remained in town. I was predetermined to decline all invitations
of this kind in Edinburgh, but found I could give no reasons for doing so
that would not seem strange. Dr. Greville said he well knew I should be
obliged to stay either with him or Dr. Graham,[41] who would never let me
off; so, as I thought Dr. Greville would prove the most useful and edifying
acquaintance, I accepted his invitation and promised to send my luggage
sometime to-morrow. We set out to call on Professor Graham; walked over
into the New Town, the squares, rows, terraces, and crescents all very fine;
called at Professor G.’s, who was as usual out; left Dr. Torrey’s letter and
my own card. Left to myself again, after promising to meet Dr. Greville at
dinner at the house of a friend of his, I directed my steps to the Castle,
which, crowning a high cliff much like that of Stirling, nearly or quite
perpendicular except on one side, is visible from almost every part of the
city.... Walked far away to Inverleith Terrace to leave my letters for Mr.
Nicoll;[42] returned, dressed for dinner, passed an agreeable humdrum
evening at a small family party; returned to the hotel, read two American
newspapers (little news), found a good fire in my room, and sat down to
make these desultory notes. As to all the rest of what I have seen I may have
more to say another day. Good-night!
                           St. George’s Square, 12 M., January 4, 1839.
    Before I retire to rest I must hastily and very briefly record my doings
to-day, just by way of keeping in good habits; as I am engaged to breakfast
at an early hour with Dr. Graham I must soon go to bed. Rose at half past
nine (recollect I had not slept the previous night),—a snowstorm. Sight-
seeing being out of the question, went to the university, just in time to hear
the latter part of Dr. Hope’s lecture (Light Carburetted Hydrogen and Safety
Lamp); fine-studied and rather formal manner,—did not wear his gown or
ruffles at the wrist! Experiments few but rather neat. In cutting off flame
with wire gauze he varied the experiment in a way I had not previously
seen, viz., by throwing a jet of ether upon the gauze, which burnt below but
did not kindle above,—a very pretty effect. He looks to be not above sixty-
five, although he must be ten years over that age. Next heard Professor
Forbes,[43] a handsome man of very elegant appearance; a most elegant and
lucid lecturer; delivered my note of introduction from Professor Silliman;
received me very kindly, but I was obliged to leave at once to hear a lecture
from Professor Wilson, the famous Christopher North, one of the most
extraordinary men living, very eccentric, a gifted genius, and a man of the
most wonderful versatility of powers. The subject to-day was the
Association of Ideas. The lecture was rather striking, original in manner,
with a few flights of that peculiar eloquence which you would expect from
Christopher North. Next heard Dr. Monro (Anatomy); very prosy; the class
behaved shockingly, even for medical students! Lastly I heard Professor
Jameson[44] a stiff, ungainly, forbidding-looking man, who gave us the
most desperately dull, doleful lecture I ever heard. It was just like a copious
table of contents to a book,—just about as interesting as reading a table of
contents for an hour would be; I may add just as instructive! Dined in a
quiet way with Dr. Pardie, a young physician to whom I brought a letter
from James Hogg; his wife is a cousin of James; went from the table to the
college to hear a botanical lecture from Professor Graham; returned to tea
and spent the evening. I found I had quite unexpectedly met with profitable
acquaintance, as Dr. and Mrs. Pardie were active and ardent Christians, of
the Baptist persuasion, and people of a very delightful spirit. They were
well acquainted with Mr. Cheever of Salem, who spent some time in
Edinburgh previous to his journey to Palestine. I passed a very pleasant
evening, and promised to call on them again before leaving town. Returned
in the midst of a violent snowstorm to Dr. Greville’s, where I am now
domesticated, having sent up my baggage from the hotel.
    Saturday evening.—Rose this morning at half past seven; and at half
past eight, according to engagement, went over to the other side of the town
with Dr. Greville, to breakfast with Dr. Graham, and then visit the Botanical
Garden (deep snow). We looked about the garden, or rather the
greenhouses, until afternoon; much gratified with the splendid collections;
but the Sabbath draws nigh, and I cannot go on to tell you more about it
now. Called on Mr. Nicoll on my return; made a provisional engagement to
meet him at breakfast on Monday and examine his sections of woods. Ran
about the streets; left a note at the house of Arnott’s brother, to make
arrangements (as we have done) for visiting Parliament House, etc., on
Monday; returned to Greville’s, dressed for dinner, and looked over books,
etc., until Professor Graham and Dr. Balfour,[45] secretary of the Botanical
Society, arrived; dined; passed a pleasant evening; after family worship had
a little conversation with Dr. Greville, retired to my room, and now, as I am
at the bottom of the page and my watch says ten minutes to twelve,—to
bed. Adieu.
    Monday evening.—Two days have passed since I have taken up my pen
to communicate to you my little diary. I still remain domesticated at Dr.
Greville’s, where I am received with the greatest kindness, and am as happy
as I can be away from home. I like Dr. G. and family much, there is so
much true Christian feeling and simplicity. Dr. G. seems much to regret that
he was unable to meet Dr. Torrey in Edinburgh. Yesterday was the first
Sabbath of the new year, and I heard two sermons adapted to the season;
one in the morning, in an Episcopal chapel (the one to which this family
belong) from Mr. Drummond, the text being the latter clause of Hebrews
viii. 13; a most excellent, faithful, and godly sermon. In the afternoon I
occupied a seat Dr. Greville was so kind as to secure for me in the Old
Greyfriars (Scotch) Church, which is so crowded that without this
precaution you can hardly expect to get into the church when Dr. Guthrie
preaches. He is the most striking preacher I ever heard. I could not help
comparing him with Whitfield. The text was the first clause of Eccles. ii.
11. I dare not attempt to give you any idea of the discourse. I wish you
could have heard it. In this church-yard the remains of the early martyrs of
Scotland repose, not far from the Grassmarket, where they were mostly
offered up. I stood upon the very spot to-day where they suffered. We had a
terrible wind all last night, which, with the rain, carried off nearly all the
snow. The morning was so stormy that I could not fulfill my conditional
engagement to breakfast with Mr. Nicoll and look at his curiosities. So I
repaired to the university at ten; heard Sir Charles Bell,[46] the professor of
surgery,—a decent lecturer, but not remarkable. At eleven I heard the
celebrated Dr. Chalmers, the professor of divinity. The old man has a heavy,
strongly-marked Scotch countenance, which, however, brightens very much
when he is engaged in his discourse. His manner is rather inelegant and his
dialect broad Scotch and peculiar. But the matter is so rich that he carries all
before him. Every word is full of thought, and he occasionally rose to a
very powerful eloquence. He is much beloved, and is considered by all
parties, perhaps, as the strong man of Scotland. The subject of his lecture
this morning was the advantage (and the abuse) of Scripture criticism. It
was a treat to hear him. He paid a high compliment, in the course of his
remarks, to our Moses Stuart.
    The weather growing by this time more tolerable, I walked about town,
—visited the Parliament House, the Library of the Writers to the Signet;
passed through the Grassmarket, returned here, looked at plants with Dr.
Greville; dined; received a parcel from Sir William Hooker containing a
few plants I had accidentally left (a few he had given me). A very kind letter
informed me that he would be in London about the same time with me
(which I had in part expected, and about which hangs a tale I must write
soon), and also a fine parcel of letters of introduction for me, both to
persons on the way to London, and also on the Continent,—to Delessert, De
Candolle, Martins, Endlicher, Humboldt, etc. Truly he is a kind man; he has
laid me under lasting obligations. He asks me to say to Dr. Torrey that his
Grace of Bedford is anxious to receive also the Hudsonia ericoides from
New Jersey, and he will be greatly obliged if he will send a box of it to
Woburn early in the spring. Attended this evening a meeting of the Royal
Society, Dr. Abercrombie[47] (author of “Intellectual Powers,” etc.) in the
chair. Dr. A. is at the head of the profession here; is greatly esteemed, and is
a most exemplary Christian. An interesting paper was read by Professor
Forbes, of whom I have spoken before; a man whom from his very youthful
appearance you could never have imagined as the successful candidate to
the professor’s chair against Dr. Brewster. But Dr. Brewster is no favorite in
Edinburgh. Other distinguished men were there. I was introduced to
Professor Christison,[48] had some pleasant conversation; promised, if
practicable, to hear him lecture to-morrow at nine A.M., and look at his
museum of materia medica. We had tea after the adjournment, according to
the usual custom here, which is a very pleasant one. I only count upon two
days more in Edinburgh, and have yet much to do. I am anxious to reach
London, where I hope there are letters for me. Good-night. May God bless
you all, and keep you.
                           Melrose, January 10, 1839, Thursday evening.
   On the 8th inst., Tuesday, I went immediately after breakfast to the
university and heard Professor Christison’s lecture, Materia Medica. He is
an excellent lecturer. I spent a half hour with him, in looking over his
cabinet of preparations, which contains a large number of fruits, etc.,
preserved in strong brine instead of spirits. I acquired some useful
information concerning the best way to close the jars, for which he has
some very neat plans. Then I heard Professor Forbes again; elegant as usual,
but he did not succeed very well in his experiments. The next hour I had a
rich treat. I heard another lecture from Professor Wilson, on the Association
of Ideas, which on this occasion he noticed in a more practical view than
before. He recited, in his glowing manner, several passages from Virgil, and
a long one from Milton, and gave a long and most eloquent analytic
commentary upon each, far exceeding anything of the kind I ever heard
before. After visiting the library of the university—a most magnificent
room—I set out for Holyrood House.... I bought one or two poor prints, a
cast of the seal-ring of Mary, plucked a bit of holly from a bush standing by
the place by the altar before which Mary was married to Bothwell, and
reluctantly took my leave. There was yet some time remaining, so I set out
to climb Arthur’s Seat, which rises abruptly behind Salisbury Crags to the
height of eight or nine hundred feet. I attained my wish, and had a beautiful
view, from the summit, of the city beneath my feet, and the wide country
around. I descended more rapidly than I went up, though at some risk to my
neck. Returned to Dr. Greville’s, where I dined and spent all the evening.
    I had engaged yesterday to breakfast with Dr. Graham. I therefore set off
early for that purpose; afterward accompanied him to the Garden, examined
the grounds, etc., passed some time in the splendid palm-house. I spent
some portion of the morning also with Mr. Nicoll, examining with the
microscope his beautiful collection of recent and fossil wood in thin slices;
learned how to prepare them. Then arranged my affairs to leave Edinburgh
in the morning. In the evening Dr. Greville and myself dined with Mr.
Wilson (gentleman naturalist), the brother of the gifted Professor Wilson;
himself almost equally gifted, but with a more healthy tone of mind. He
interested us so much that our stay was prolonged until nearly the “wee
short hour ayont the twal,” when we parted, after a pressing invitation to
visit him at his country residence in case I ever visited Scotland at a more
pleasant season. Taking leave of my kind friends the Grevilles, I was early
this morning on my way to Melrose. I have been received with the utmost
kindness, not only by this agreeable and most excellent family, but among
all the acquaintance I have made in Edinburgh. I had purchased for you a
collection of hymns, etc., edited by Dr. Greville and his pastor, Mr.
Drummond, with which I was very much pleased, and doubt not you would
like them much. But Dr. Greville saw it, and afterwards insisted on sending
a much handsomer copy to Dr. Torrey, which was accordingly placed in my
hands for him. Melrose is about thirty-six miles from Edinburgh, on one of
the routes to Newcastle. We came upon the Tweed among a rugged range of
hills, at first a very small stream; followed it along the sinuous valley for a
long way, until it became a pretty considerable river, for Great Britain; at
length the valley grew wider, softer, and in the proper season, doubtless
very beautiful. A smaller stream joined it at some distance before us, and as
its opening vale came into view, the driver—I beg his pardon, coachman—
pointed with his whip to the opposite side and said, “Abbotsford; “ and true
enough the turrets of this quaint castellated house were distinguishable, in
the midst of a grove mostly of Scott’s own planting, near the banks of the
Yarrow. We soon after crossed the Tweed, at the place where the White
Lady frightened the sacristan in “The Monastery; “ the scene of which, you
know, was laid at Melrose and in the neighborhood. The fine old ruin of
Melrose Abbey now came into view, half surrounded by a dirty little Scotch
village. Here I abandoned the coach until to-morrow, secured a gig, and was
soon on my way to Abbotsford.... I walked back from Abbotsford, noticing
more particularly the beauty of the valley, and the fine Eildon Hills which
rise behind Melrose, from whose summit, it is said, a very beautiful
prospect may be obtained. I then spent the remainder of the afternoon about
Melrose Abbey, the most beautiful ruin I have ever seen or expect to see;
more beautiful than I had imagined, and just in that state of dilapidation in
which it appears to the greatest advantage as a ruin, for were it entire it
would be indeed magnificent. I feel now as if I should never care to see
another ruin of the kind; and therefore I shall not visit Dryburgh Abbey
(where Scott is buried), as I had intended; although I suppose we shall pass
by nearly in sight of it to-morrow. I wish I could bring you some sketch or
print that would give you some idea of Melrose, but I fear this is
impossible. The exquisite carvings in stone, especially, cannot be
appreciated until they are seen. It is said (I forget the lines) that Melrose
should be seen by moonlight, and this I can well imagine; but this evening
there is neither moonlight nor starlight....
                            Durham, Saturday evening, January 12, 1839.
    Soon leaving the Tweed we crossed a range of hills, and came down into
the fertile Teviotdale, so famous in border story. Again leaving this valley,
we wound our way up the Jedwater, a tributary of the Teviot, rising high up
in the Cheviot Hills, just on the line between England and Scotland. We
passed Jedburgh, a Scotch village of considerable size and importance, dirty
and comfortless of course. Here is an old abbey, which I should have been
loth to pass by had I not seen Melrose; thence we ascended the Jed for
many a weary mile, until we reached its source high among the Cheviot
Hills. Our course was literally “over the mountain and over the moor,” for
after a tedious ascent we crossed the boundary line at an elevation of fifteen
hundred feet above the level of the sea. We were by this time thoroughly
drenched with mist and rain; the wind forbidding the use of our umbrellas.
We immediately commenced our descent, and just at dusk stopped for a
hasty dinner at Otterbourne, so famous in the history of the border warfare
as the place of the memorable Chevy Chase. It was too dark to see the cross
erected to mark the spot where Percy fell. Pass we over the ride from this to
Newcastle, as we saw nothing, though we passed near some places of
interest,—Chillingham, the residence of the Earl of Tankerville, for
example,—and arrived at Newcastle about nine o’clock in the evening. In
the morning I delivered notes of introduction from Hooker and Greville to
George Wailes, Esq., one of the active members of the Newcastle Natural
History Society; visited their fine building and really splendid museum,
especially rich in fossil remains and also in the British birds; made
arrangements for correspondence and exchange with the Michigan State
Survey; was introduced to a botanist or two; visited the castle built by
Robert, brother of William the Conqueror, if I recollect aright, which has
stood firmly for many a year, and may stand for centuries more, or as long
as the world standeth.... Arrived at Durham at eight in the evening. I called
almost immediately upon Professor Johnston[49] and delivered Doctor
Torrey’s letter and parcel, when we recognized each other as fellow-
passengers in the coach from Newcastle, he being a Scotch gentleman,—
looking very like my friend Couthouy of the exploring expedition,—whom
I was far from imagining would prove to be the professor in the Durham
University; took my tea and spent the greater part of the evening with him.
He told me he was just about to send a parcel to Doctor Torrey by a friend
going next week to America. I must embrace this opportunity to send my
letters, now forming a somewhat bulky parcel....
    Spent Monday with Professor Johnston in his laboratory, witnessing the
progress of some analyses of resins, etc., in which he is now much engaged;
also went through the old castle, now used for the university; dined with
Professor Johnston at four clock; returned to the hotel.... Took my tea with
him, and he accompanied me at half past nine to the coach office whence I
took coach for Leeds. I have little to say about Durham University,
promising as it is in some respects, because they have adopted the monkish
system of Oxford and Cambridge to the fullest extent; the professors and
tutors except Johnston are all clergymen; the curriculum includes nothing
but classics, a little mathematics, and less logic; their professor of natural
philosophy never lectures; they give their professor of chemistry,
mineralogy, and geology just fifty pounds a year (nothing for his
experiments), and require no one to attend his lectures.
    But now I must record some painful news, just learned to-day, which has
shocked me exceedingly, but which you will have heard of long ere this
reaches you; viz., the loss of the noble ship Pennsylvania, the death of
Captain Smith, the first and second mate, and some of the passengers, I
hardly yet know how many. I had grown much attached to this ship, and
thought highly of its officers, who had been kind to me....
                           London, January 17, 1839, Thursday evening.
   This is dated at this modern Babylon, where I arrived about nine o’clock
last evening. I stopped at the White Boar, Coventry Street, Piccadilly; had a
quiet night’s sleep; rose early this morning, and had breakfasted and was on
my way to Dr. Boott’s[50] (24 Gower Street) before ten o’clock. I found
Doctor B. at home; was kindly received and was introduced to his wife,
mother, children, and a brother from Boston who is now with him; spent an
hour or two with him; heard that Hooker was in town. Though not a public
day went to the British Museum; inquired for Brown (Mr. Brown, for he
does not like to be called Dr.), and was so fortunate as to find not only the
man himself I was so anxious to set my eyes on, but also Hooker, Joseph
Hooker, Bennett,[51] and Dr. Richardson.[52] Passed an hour or two. Brown
invited Hooker and me to breakfast with him on Saturday morning; went
out with Hooker; first to the Linnæan Society; introduced to David Don,[53]
a stout Scotchman, and looked through the rooms of the society. Don
offered to give me every possible facility in my pursuits, but of course I
said nothing to him about Pursh’s[54] herbarium at Lambert’s, of which he
was formerly curator; for since he married Lambert’s housekeeper, or cook,
I forget which, Lambert will not allow him to come into the house. From
here Hooker took me,—stopping by the way at Philip’s, one of the most
eminent painters, whose gallery we saw,—to the house of Lambert[55]
himself, the queerest old mortal I ever set eyes on. But Carey’s description
of the man was so accurate that I should have known him anywhere. I was
of course invited to breakfast with him any morning at nine; he showed us
his Cacti stuffed with plaster of paris, among others a very curious one
called muff-cactus, which really looks just like a lady’s muff and is not
much smaller. Lambert’s specimens are the only ones known, and he gave
for them something like a hundred guineas,—the old goose! A woman has
the care of his collections in place of Don. She stuffs the cacti and seems
quite as enthusiastic as old Lambert himself. We went next to the
Horticultural Society’s rooms in Regent Street in hopes to find Mr.
Bentham; but instead we met Lindley, who received us very politely; he
asked me to send him my address the moment I was settled in lodgings....
Here I parted from Hooker for the present, declining an invitation to join
him at the dinner of the Royal Society’s Club, for which I was afterwards
almost sorry, as I should have met there Hallam, the historian, and some
other distinguished men, as also Brown, whose peculiar dry wit is said to
have abounded greatly. Hooker seems as anxious to serve me and aid me
here in London as at his own home. He is the most noble man I ever knew.
Thence I took a cab and drove into the City, through Temple Bar, down
Fleet Street; drove round St. Paul’s, to the office of Baring Brothers &
Company, who are to be my bankers and to whom my letters here may now
be addressed; thence to the office of Wiley & Putnam in Paternoster Row;
did not see Mr. Wiley, but learned that the copies of our “Flora” had not
arrived, which I am very sorry for, and don’t know how to account for it;
called at C. Rich’s, but found no letters, which was a sad disappointment
indeed; thence back here to dinner. At eight o’clock went to Somerset
House to attend a meeting of the Royal Society, where again I met Hooker
and Dr. Richardson. Brown was also present, for the first time in eight
years. Royle[56] was in the chair, at which the botanists present sneered
much, as they evidently think him too small a man to fill the seat occupied
by Newton, etc. I don’t know how he happened to be one of the vice-
presidents. I was introduced to him after the meeting, as also to many
others. J. E. Gray,[57] who was very polite, gave me and Joseph Hooker
tickets for Faraday’s lecture of to-morrow evening, invited me to dine with
him to-morrow, etc. I was glad to make the acquaintance of Mr. Criff[58] (or
Clift) the curator of the Hunterian Museum, the man who exposed Sir
Everard Home, who invited us to come and see that museum. While we
were conversing, a gentleman, whom Hooker did not at the time recognize,
addressed us, and after some conversation with me asked me if I would like
to be introduced to Sir Astley Cooper, and see his museum. I answered of
course that it would be a great gratification, when he introduced himself as
Bransby Cooper, the nephew of Sir Astley,—of whom I have heard
formerly not a little,—gave me his address, and Joseph Hooker and myself
are to call on him on Monday next. I was introduced also to Dr. Roget,[59]
but saw not so much of him as I could wish; so you see I have met more
distinguished men in one day than I might elsewhere meet with perhaps in a
whole life. But I must break off; I am engaged to breakfast in the morning
with Hooker, to meet also Dr. Richardson....
           White Bear, Piccadilly, 18th January, 1839, Friday evening.
   I am not yet in private lodgings, but hope to be so to-morrow. You must
not expect me to mention half the things I see in a day here in this busy
metropolis, where as yet everything I have seen has been viewed in the
most desultory manner. I breakfasted with Hooker and Richardson, who left
me for a half hour at the Adelaide Gallery, where I saw very many things to
interest me, which we will not stop to talk of now, as I hope to be there
again; among other things, a live Gymnotus or Electrical Eel, which gives
powerful shocks, they say, for I did not choose to feel it myself. Thence we
visited the Museum of the Zoölogical Society, for which Dr. Richardson not
only procured us free admittance, but procured for us an order to visit the
Zoölogical Gardens; made calls with Hooker, whom Joseph and I left with
the Chancellor of the Exchequer in Downing Street, while we passed by
Westminster Hall and Abbey down to Bentham’s, who has a beautiful
residence as retired as the country. Found Bentham an exceedingly pleasant
and amiable man; spent an hour or two, till Hooker came in; accepted an
invitation to dine with him to-morrow; went into the City; introduced to
Richard Taylor,[60] at his printing-office; were all invited to breakfast on
Tuesday morning next; went to Longman’s famous bookstore and
warehouse; one of the young Longmans politely showed us over the
building, showed us room after room filled with solid literature,—a most
surprising quantity; went by St. Paul’s again, saw the Bank, etc.; took an
omnibus again to West End; passed by the London University, etc. Joe
Hooker and I went to dine with J. E. Gray, who has taken it into his head to
show us no little attention; he has lately married a rich wife, a widow, much
older than himself; I was quite pleased with her. Went to the Botanical
Society,—poor concern; and then to hear Faraday give the first lecture of
the season at the Royal Institution, Mr. Gray having kindly offered us
tickets. I was unexpectedly introduced to Faraday just before the lecture;
pleasant man, with a very quick and lively expression of countenance. The
lecture was on Electrical Eels, etc.; most elegant lecturer he is; brilliant and
rapid experimenter. I hope to hear him again.
   Saturday evening, January 19.—I am now in lodgings, No. 36
Northumberland Street, near Northumberland House, Charing Cross, in the
room just vacated by Dr. Richardson; sixteen shillings a week, and a
shilling for my breakfast when I choose to take it here. It is half past eleven.
I have just come in; no fire, but fortunately my occupation for to-day is
soon told. Hooker, Joe, and I breakfasted with Brown at his house, and
stayed with him until four o’clock in the afternoon! I have a good deal to
say about him, but not here. He is a curious man in other things besides
botany. He has a few choice paintings, and a few exquisite engravings he
has picked up on the Continent. I coveted them for you. They are just what
we should be delighted to have. I dressed for dinner, then drove with my
luggage to my present lodgings, and then took up Hooker and Joe for
Bentham’s to dinner at half past six, where we met Lindley and Mr.
Brydges; the dinner was just the beau ideal of taste and simple elegance. In
the drawing-room coffee was served up, and in a half hour Assam tea. I am
greatly pleased with Bentham, and delighted with Mrs. B. But more of this
anon. We are to breakfast with him on Monday, and then make up a party to
Kew and the Horticultural Gardens. The house he lives in, a pleasant place,
plain but tastefully furnished and arranged, was the one where Jeremy
Bentham lived....
   Tuesday evening, January 22.—I have to account for myself for two
days past, but fortunately this can be done in general terms in few words.
Were I to enter very fully into particulars I should fill several sheets.
Yesterday Sir William Hooker, Joseph, and I breakfasted according to
appointment with Bentham, and set out, although the day was rainy, for a
visit to the Horticultural Gardens at Chiswick. We went in an omnibus, and
I noticed on the way Apsley House (Duke of Wellington), and the
monument to his Grace in Hyde Park, near his house (what is the good of
honors, indeed, if one cannot see them?), Holland House, which I saw from
some distance, etc. We found Lindley at the Gardens, and looked through
the grounds. They have very few hothouses as yet, but have just dug the
foundation of a very splendid one, which is, however, to form one wing
merely of the general plan. We went to Kew, about two miles farther, and
looked through those fine old grounds and gardens. The hothouses and the
collections in them were much larger and more interesting than I had
anticipated. They are particularly rich in New Holland and Cape plants.
There is a new conservatory for large plants, a fine one certainly, which cost
six thousand pounds, and the roof was taken from the greenhouse at
Buckingham Palace, and therefore cost nothing. It seems an extravagant
job, and Mr. Bentham feels sure a much better one of the same size could be
built for four thousand pounds. While here we paid a visit to Francis Bauer,
[61] now eighty-five years old, and much broken down, but still hard at
work, and making as beautiful drawings as ever (beyond comparison
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