A Field-Based Case Study On How Textile is
Processed.
Author: Ishan Gopal
Grade: 12th Grade
Date: August 10, 2025
Abstract: This field-based case study explains and dives into the chemical and the industrial
procedures that are involved in the processing of textile. This was conducted through a visit to a
large scale textile processing facility. This will cover the core processes of singeing, desizing,
scouring and mercerization, which highlights the chemical mechanisms, operational parameters
and industrial applications . The in depth analysis of the mercerization process elucidates the
transformation of cellulose fibers under alkaline treatment, its impact on fiber properties, and the
challenges that tag along with it. I have tried my level best to keep this case study errorless and
fact check everything that I have stated, but there might be a possibility that I may have missed
a few things or got something wrong. I apologise for that. I am still a highschool student who is
in love with chemistry and I’m open to learning about the concepts that I haven't understood
well.
1. Introduction
Processing of textile is an extremely important part of textile manufacturing. Why do I say so?
Well, it is essential since all the impurities and contaminants are removed, the wettability of the
fiber is improved, the defects and fabric damage are avoided, enhances chemical reactivity
which enables consistent and efficient dyeing. The main steps during this procedure are
singeing, desizing, scouring and mercerization. I have focused more on the mercerizing part
since its more interesting when looked at from a chemistry enthusiast’s eyes.
2. Pre-Treatment Processes
2.1. Singeing
● Purpose: The main purpose of singeing is to make the surface of the cloth more smooth
by getting rid of the rough and protruding fabrics.
● Process: As the name suggests, the fabric is singed, i.e. treated with heat by quickly
passing it through a flame to remove protruding fibers and fuzz from the fabric surface.
The excess fiber that is sticking out is from the yarn. It is composed mostly of cellulose
or cellulose/polyester blend. When it is exposed to flame, the fiber undergoes a reaction
which is called an “oxidative pyrolysis”. It’s a combustion reaction where the cellulose will
react with the oxygen in air. Since the flame contact time is very brief, only the fizzy part
is burnt off and a smooth fabric is obtained without any damage.
● Reaction: (C6H10O5)n + O2 → CO2 + H2O + Heat
● Industrial observation: (i) Butane was used as the source of fuel for the flame.
(ii) The flame and the time of contact was very precise.
2.2. Desizing
● Purpose: Desizing is done in order to remove the starch and the sizing agents that
would cause difficulties and lead to a bad yield.
● Process: The fabric goes through an enzymatic treatment which helps in the removal of
starch, synthetic polymers or other sizing agents used during the weaving process to
strengthen the yarn. Chemically, the main goal is to hydrolyse the sizing agent. Enzymes
like amylase help catalyze the hydrolysis of starch into soluble sugars. Wetting agents
like DTC help increase the water penetration and fabric wetting. Sequestering agents
like EDTA bind metal ions that could interact with the enzymes and cause unwanted side
reactions. Hydrogen peroxide and Sodium Hydroxide help in the removal of tough
residues and adjust the alkalinity of the bath. Acetic acid and Oxalic acid are also added
to maintain the pH level of the whole medium. This process is done at 70°C. The cloth is
then rotated for 8 hours and then, the obtained cloth is then sent to PTR (Pre Treatment
Range) - which is another word for CBR (Continuous Bleaching Range) - for scouring.
● Reactions: (i) (C6H10O5)n + nH2O + amylase → n(C6H12O6) {this is just a
demonstrative enzymatic reaction}
(ii) M+ + EDTA4- → [M-EDTA](n-4)- {Here M can be any metal cation like Ca+ or Fe3+}
2.3. Scouring
● Purpose: It is done to get rid of natural waxes, pectins, fats, and other hydrophobic
impurities from cotton fibers.
● Process: Takes place in an alkaline medium. Sodium Hydroxide is treated to the fabric
which converts the unwanted fats and waxes into soap and alcohol. Hydrogen peroxide
works like an oxidising agent breaking down the other organic impurities, generating
hydroxyl radicals. Stabilisers are also added which controls the hydrogen peroxide
decomposition. The wetting agent reduces the surface tension which allows the aqueous
solution to go through the hydrophobic waxy layers. The whole process takes place at
92°C. The cloth is then sent to a steamer for 14 minutes and another washing is
performed.
● Reactions: (i) Fat/waxes (ester) + NaOH → Soap + Alcohol
- .
(ii) H2O2 +OH → HO2 + OH( )
3. Merserization
3.1. Introduction to mercerization
Here is where things get interesting. Mercerization is essentially rearranging the structure of the
cellulose of the fabric by applying NaOH to it under controlled tension.This in turn, gives it luster,
enhances its tensile strength and improves the dye uptake of the fabric by increasing the
number of accessible hydroxyl groups. This process is mainly done to cotton and other fibers
made up of cellulose. There are many types of mercerization, each with a minor or major tweak.
I’ll be talking about two of them. Hot mercerization and cold mercerization. The facility I visited
was performing hot mercerisation during my time there. Hence, I will emphasize more on hot
mercerization.
3.2. Cold Mercerization
Cold mercerization takes place at around 15-20°C. The fabric is immersed in an NaOH bath of
concentration of 33%-35% for about a minute. This causes the fibers to unevenly swell up
rapidly making the penetration capacity low. Hence, additional wetting agents are also applied
which is not environmentally safe. This is a major reason why it’s not favoured. But the low
temperature swelling also has its benefits! The fabric’s strength is increased and the luster is
enhanced. At the end, the fiber is washed and neutralised by Acetic acid.
3.3. Hot Mercerization
Hot mercerization is more industrially favoured, since its easier and way more efficient, has
superior properties and wetting agents are not needed.
Hot mercerization takes place at around 60-80°C, for a very short amount of time i.e. 10-15
seconds. The facility I visited was mercerizing at 65°C at a uniform tension in order for
dimensional stability and a higher dye uptake. Just like cold mercerization, the fabric is dipped in
NaOH. But this time the concentration of NaOH is 16%-22%, which is also 260 to 280 GPM.
The facility used the unit GPM more than w/w%. The application of tension and correct
temperature is extremely crucial for enhancing the luster, maximizing the dye up take,
minimizing shrinkage and getting a better feeling fabric. This time the NaOH treatment is done
so briefly and at the correctly optimized conditions, the swelling up of the fabric is even, making
the feeling of the cloth more smoother than that obtained from cold mercerization. This also
means that wetting agents are not needed and the cloth is ready to be taken for dyeing, or as
they liked to say, “The batch is now RFD.” RFD is an acronym for Ready For Dyeing.
3.4. Reactions Involved
The chemistry involved in mercerization is extremely fascinating. I’ll try to explain it to the best of
my abilities in 3 steps.
● Formation of alkali cellulose: When NaOH is treated to cellulose, the fibers swell up
because of the Na+ ion penetrating the crystalline region and disturbing the hydrogen
bonds. This forms a structure called ‘Alkali Cellulose I’ or ‘Na-cellulose I’
(C6H10O5)n + NaOH → (C6H9O4-ONa)n + H2O
● Regeneration to cellulose II: Up to five intermediate Na-cellulose complexes are
formed during this reaction which is not good for the cloth. Washing and alcohol
treatment washes the NaOH away and the Na-cellulose I is recrystallised into a different
allomorph. This complex is called ‘cellulose II’. It has an anti parallel chain and is
irreversible unlike the original parallel chain of cellulose I.
(C6H9O4-ONa)n + H2O → (C6H10O5)n + NaOH(soln)
● Neutralization: Acetic acid is used to neutralise the residual NaOH in the aqueous
solution. NaOH + CH3COOH → CH3COONa + H2O
3.5. Mercerization Effectiveness Test
A test called ‘Barium activity test’ is conducted. 1 to 2 grams of mercerized and unmercerized
cloth is immersed in 30 ml of 0.25N of Ba(OH)2 for 2 hours. It is then titrated against 0.1N HCl
using phenolphthalein as an indicator.
Barium activity number (BAN) is then calculated by the formula, BAN = [(B – M) / (B – U)] × 100
An unmercerized sample would give a reading of 100 whereas, a perfect mercerized fabric
would give a reading of 130 and above.
3.6. Hot vs Cold Mercerization
Factor Hot Mercerization Cold Mercerization
Swelling uniformity Excellent Poor
Precessing time Short (20 seconds) Longer (60 seconds)
Properties Strong, lustrous, stable Moderate/limited luster and
strength
Wetting agents Not needed May be required
Popularity Widely used Uncommon/very niche
4. Conclusion
From singeing off the stray fuzz to modifying cellulose on a molecular basis, textile processing is
a unique combination of chemistry and engineering. Each stage of textile processing - singeing,
desizing, scouring, and eventually mercerizing which is a logical progression from stage to
stage, altering the fabric properties and eliminating non-cellulosic impurities, making cellulose
more reactive, and developing the aesthetic and performance characteristics of the final fabric.
Cold mercerization is cost effective in obtaining luster and tensile gain. However, from an
industry perspective, hot mercerization has an unbeatable advantage over cold mercerization
due to its efficiency in providing uniform swelling, along with superior end results without wetting
agents. Seeing the processing of textiles up close made me realize, in a way that I never
considered before, how much precision, control, and chemical understanding it takes to develop
something as "everyday" as cotton clothes! It isn't just dunking a fabric in alkali, it is a process of
transformation that involves choreography of cellulose itself which has to have temperature,
tension, and time dancing to the same rhythm to transform a simple fiber into something that
can later shine, quite literally, on the loom, in the dye bath, and lastly in someone's closet.
5. Sources and References
https://www.scribd.com/document/647113449/Textile-Pretreatment-and-Finishing-2023 (Textile
Pretreatment and Finishing 2023)
https://www.researchgate.net/publication/277576594_Mercerisation_of_cellulose_in_aqueous_NaOH_at_
low_concentrations (Mercerisation of cellulose in aqueous NaOH at low concentrations)
https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s10570-024-05999-2 (Refinability of mercerized softwood kraft
pulp)
https://drmsparmar.blogspot.com/search?q=some+facts+about+hot+and+cold+mercerization (some facts
about hot and cold mercerization)
https://www.researchgate.net/publication/334509688_Effect_of_different_mercerization_techniques_on_t
actile_comfort_of_cotton_fabric?_tp=eyJjb250ZXh0Ijp7ImZpcnN0UGFnZSI6InB1YmxpY2F0aW9uIiwicGF
nZSI6Il9kaXJlY3QifX0 (Effect of different mercerization techniques on tactile comfort of cotton fabric)
https://drmsparmar.blogspot.com/search?q=How+to+know+the+fabric+is+properly+mercerized+
or+not%3F (How to know the fabric is properly mercerized or not?)
