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Discovering Diverse Content Through
Random Scribd Documents
 PLATE III.
THE CONSTRUCTION OF VARIOUS PARTS OF
STAIRS, SHOWING THE APPLICATION OF THE
STEEL SQUARE FOR SETTING OUT STRINGS,
ETC.

Fig. 1 shows a cradle for glueing up the steps. Let A be a piece

of wood about 18 inches long by 6 inches wide by 2 inches thick,
and B should be a piece about 2 feet 6 inches long by 3 inches wide
by 2 inches thick. Put a ¾-inch mortise through B and tenon A into
it. Well glue and wedge, and pin as shown. Two of these should be
made. It will be noticed that E is cut out for the projection of the
front edge of the tread past D, which is the face of the riser, and the
mortise in B is kept back to E. F is cut out to fit over the scotia. The
holes in the edges C and D are for pins to go in, to wedge against
when glueing up the steps. The process of glueing up the steps is as
follows: first cut off treads, risers, and scotia about 1 inch or 1½
inch longer than their proper length. Now plane up the treads, and
shoot the front edges straight and square; then plough the under
side for the scotia to go in about ¼ inch deep; then plane up the
scotia and gauge them to a width and thickness so as to fit tight into
the groove. These scotias should next be glued into the grooves and
allowed to dry while the risers are being planed up. Plane up the
face of the risers, and shoot the edge to go against the tread
straight and square. Now fix the two cradles on the bench, by
screwing them through B into the top of the bench. In fixing these,
try them with one of the treads so as to get them square; keep them
about 6 inches from each end.
Fig. 2 shows one of these cradles with a part of a step glued up.
Lay the step on the cradle and stick a pin in one of the holes in B,
and put in a wedge between the pin and the back edge of the step
to keep the step in its place. Now glue the tread for the edge of the
riser, also the back of the scotia; well rub the riser to get the glue
rubbed out, and put in the wedge to keep the riser down, as shown.
Then put in two screws and three blocks as shown at Fig. 7, Plate II.
In putting on the blocks take care to well rub the glue out.
Fig. 3 shows a part of the outer string housed out for the treads
and risers. The steel square is used to get the lines on the strings for
the treads and risers, as shown. Get a piece of stuff long enough,
marked F, and let it be about 2 inches square; put a good thick saw
cut in each end and slip the square in the cuts as shown. Hold the
hypothenuse of the pitch board against the fence F and set the
blade to the going, and the tongue of the square to the rise of the
pitch board. Now to mark the string. Gauge the hypothenuse line
about 2½ inches from the top edge of string, and make the distance
between A A on this line equal the hypothenuse of the pitch board.
Slide the square along from A to A and mark both treads and risers.
To mark the housing on the back side of the treads and risers, get
two pieces of thin stuff and cut wedge-shaped, allowing them the
wedge wider than the thickness of treads to mark the housing for
the treads, and the wedge wider than the thickness of the risers for
the housing for the risers. Fig. 4 shows a section of the steps with
bracketed carriages showing. These carriages are only used in this
description of stairs; they average from 2 inches to 3 inches thick;
they are put on with the grain running in the same direction as the
strings, they are screwed to the under side of the steps and to each
other, as shown, and well blocked to treads and risers. They are
placed according to the width of the stairs, three under each flight.
Fig. 5 shows a part of the wall string, moulded to match the
skirting, and housed out for treads and risers. In putting stairs of
this sort together, lay the wall string on the ground, as shown, taking
care to get it straight and solid. Then place one end of the steps in
the grooves of the wall string, after all the steps have been placed in
position, then lay the outer string on the ends of steps, and after the
steps have been got into the grooves. Well strut from the ceiling or
any convenient place on to the outer string, forcing the steps into all
the grooves. Then put in the wedges, glueing them before they are
driven in. After they have been screwed up and blocked the struts
can be removed.
The nosing and scotia are worked after the steps have been
glued up; this is the best method of working in either a machine or a
hand shop.
Fit the nosing and scotia into the strings on the bench before
putting together, also get the rises to a width and number each step
where it is to go.
Fig. 6 shows how the strings are tenoned into the newel; the
dotted lines show the tenons and the haunching, the tenon being 3
inches deep and the haunching ½ inch deep; this is shown at Fig. 7.
The housing out of the newels is described later on where there are
winders.
The thickness of treads, &c., varies according to the class of
work, but the following may be taken as a good example.
Treads, 1¼ inch thick. Project over risers, 1¼ inch.
Risers, 1 inch thick.
Scotia, 1¼ inch by ⅝ inch.
Strings, 1½ inch.
PLATE 4.
 PLATE IV.
PLAN AND ELEVATION OF OPEN NEWEL
STAIRCASE, WITH SPANDRIL UNDER BOTTOM
FLIGHT.

Fig. 1 shows the plan of an open newelled stairs, starting from a

bull-nose step at bottom, and having a short piece of rail along the
top to give sufficient headroom. The dotted lines show the joist.
Fig. 2 shows the elevation, with spandril and newels. After
having taken the width, height and going or run on to the rods, set
up an elevation to 1½ scale, when the size of strings can be taken
off; newels, length of rails and spandril can all be set out. Draw the
line H H parallel to the line of nosing and 7 feet above. Keep the
bottom of facia crossing over the bottom flight above this line. After
having set out the stairs to this scale mark off the rods full size.
Fig. 3 shows the width rod, with the two newels marked on it.
Fig. 4 is the going rod, with newels, face of risers, joist, &c., all
marked on it.
Fig. 5 shows the height rod. Mark on to this rod the two
landings.
Fig. 6 shows the newels on the half-space landing. The newel A
being the bottom one, runs right down to the floor, the bottom
square on it being to receive the bottom handrail, while the short
level rail is above this. The newel B, the top square, is to receive the
top handrail, and the short rail is below it. Thus it will be seen the
twining on the top newel is shorter than on the bottom one marked
A.
The details will be found on the following plate.
PLATE. 5.
 PLATE V.
DETAILS OF CONSTRUCTION.

Fig. 1 shows the top rail of spandril, with the tenon cut ready to
go together.
Fig. 2 is the middle rail tenoned and haunched ready to go
together to fit into the stile.
Fig. 3 shows the other end of the same rail ready to go into the
top rail.
Fig. 4 shows the bottom rail tenoned ready to go into the stile
against the newel.
Fig. 5 is the same rail tenoned ready to go into the top rail under
the string.
Fig. 6 shows a part of one panel with the moulding. To cut the
moulding in, bisect the two angles as A B and C D; this was shown
on Plate I. Make cuts in the mitre, cut to A B and C D, and cut the
mitres to it. In putting the spandril together, put all muntings, rails,
panels, top rail, bottom and middle rails first, and the stile against
the newel last.
Fig. 7 shows a part section enlarged of the top rail of spandril,
string of stairs and capping.
Fig. 8 shows a round-ended step. This is got out in three
thicknesses, as shown at Fig. 9. This block is prepared as shown; the
riser is cut to the thickness of a veneer, it is glued and screwed at
the back, is well glued, brought around and well wedged and
screwed as shown; the scotia is glued and screwed to the block, and
the tread is well glued and screwed from the bottom. The newel is
mortised into the step diagonally, as shown.
Fig. 10 shows the elevation of the trimmer at the top.
Fig. 11 shows the plans of the trimmer, with wedge and method
of jointing.
Fig. 12 shows the section of newel and a part of door, frame and
spandril.
PLATE 6.
 PLATE VI.
DETAILS OF A NEWEL STAIRS, STARTING AND
LANDING WITH WINDERS.

In planning stairs of this description several things have to be

considered. First take off the height and going on a rod. Then decide
how many steps there are to be. Draw a plan and elevation, as
shown at Figs. 1 and 2. Set off the width of the stairs and draw the
two newels. Now draw the line of travel 15 inches from the centre of
rail. Take the centre of newels for centre, and strike the quarter of
circle top and bottom in continuation of this line, which divide into as
many divisions as there are to be steps. In drawing the winders keep
the narrow ends as wide as possible, and for this purpose they can
be brought past the newels into the strings; as we can have no
sympathy with the system that crowds all the narrow ends of
winders into the newels, by that means making the stairs
unnecessarily dangerous. The dotted lines show the trimmers and
joist; care must be taken to have sufficient headroom. It will be
noticed that the wall string is jointed at both ends, so as to get
sufficient width. When these strings are set out like this to a scale, it
is seen at once what there is to joint on. Fig. 3 shows the short
string at the bottom, and Fig. 4 that at the top. These short strings
must be made to ease into the long wall string at the same height,
also to ease into the skirting. To fix these stairs proceed as follows:
set the steps 1, 2 and 3 at the bottom, and 12, 13 and 14 at the top,
out full size on a board, with the wall strings and newels. Tongue
and groove the strings together in the corners, having the tongue on
the long string at the bottom. Mark the treads off the board to cut
and not try to fit on the job. If the rods have been set out correct in
the first place, and as correct can be worked to, they can be cut in
the shop for the bottom winders, but for the top ones the lines
should be taken off the board out to them, and cut when fixed. Put
the flight together, including step No. 12 at the top and 3 at the
bottom, then fix on the bottom newel, after which step No. 2 can be
fixed in position. Then put the short string in its place, also step No.
1. Now let the stairs go down into their place and do all necessary
blocking and screwing. It will be understood that everything has
been fitted before this, also that these bottom winders are glued up.
Next put on the long newel and glue and pin it; slip the short string
at top into its place, then fix in the risers 13, 14 and 15, and treads
13 and 14 and the nosing at top. Glue, screw and block these after
they are in. Before cutting the treads and risers at the top, try with a
rod to see if the lines on them taken off the board are correct, and if
there is any difference allow for it when cutting them in.
Fig. 5 shows the plan and Fig. 7 the elevation of the newel for
the bottom, with part of winders to 1½ inch scale. In setting out the
newels mark the position of risers on to them, thus, make 1, 2,
Fig. 7, equal to 1, 2, Fig. 5, and set up the height of a rise, and
square out a line and make 2, 3 equal 2, 3, Fig. 5; this riser, it will be
seen, comes on the edge; again set up a rise, as shown by 3, 3.
From 3 square out a line and make 3, 4 equal 3, 4, Fig. 5, and set
up the height of a rise. The same process would be repeated as long
as there were any risers striking the newel on plan. Of course the
newel would be set out full size on the board that the winders were
set out on.
Fig. 6 shows the plan of newel, and Fig. 8 the elevation of a part
of it. Repeat the process described at Figs. 5 and 7.
PLATE 7.
 PLATE VII.
HALF-SPACE LANDING, WITH A STRAIGHT
FLIGHT ABOVE AND BELOW, AND A
CONTINUED RAIL, STARTING WITH A SIDE
WREATH FROM A NEWEL.

Fig. 1 shows the plan, and Fig. 2 the sectional elevation. The
previous plates have shown stairs with close strings—that is, the
outside strings are housed out for the treads and risers, in the same
way as the wall string, and the top of the string is kept above the
nosings, and a capping is fixed on the top of it, and the balusters are
cut on, or let into this capping, according to the class of work. But in
this case is shown a cut or open string. The treads and risers are
housed into the wall string as before, but the outside strings are cut
so as to allow the treads and risers to pass right through, and the
balusters are dovetailed into the ends of treads, details of which are
shown on Plate VIII. The carriages and the landing joist are shown
by dotted lines on plan. The carriages fit close up under the bottom
edge of treads, and rough brackets are nailed to the side of them,
and fit close up to the under side of treads, and glued and blocked.
In this description of stairs it is usual to have four iron balusters,
placed as follows, one each on steps 7, 13, 18 and 24. There should
be a joist, or good solid block let into them, immediately under the
newel, so that a bolt can be let up into the centre of newel, and
through this block, or joist, and screwed tight from the bottom. The
wall string should be well plugged and nailed to the wall. If there is
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