(Ebook) Down The Susquehanna To The Chesapeake (Keystone Books) by John H. Brubaker, Jack Brubaker ISBN 9780271021843, 0271021845 PDF Download
(Ebook) Down The Susquehanna To The Chesapeake (Keystone Books) by John H. Brubaker, Jack Brubaker ISBN 9780271021843, 0271021845 PDF Download
https://ebooknice.com/product/down-the-susquehanna-to-the-
chesapeake-keystone-books-1944136
★★★★★
4.8 out of 5.0 (17 reviews )
DOWNLOAD PDF
ebooknice.com
(Ebook) Down the Susquehanna to the Chesapeake (Keystone
Books) by John H. Brubaker, Jack Brubaker ISBN
9780271021843, 0271021845 Pdf Download
EBOOK
Available Formats
https://ebooknice.com/product/biota-grow-2c-gather-2c-cook-6661374
https://ebooknice.com/product/the-russian-arctic-straits-international-
straits-of-the-world-1714420
https://ebooknice.com/product/approaches-to-the-byzantine-family-33347688
https://ebooknice.com/product/criminal-01-49597264
(Ebook) Static #1 (Flight 29 Down) by Walter Sorrells ISBN
9780448441061, 0448441063
https://ebooknice.com/product/static-1-flight-29-down-51056340
https://ebooknice.com/product/fatale-book-two-the-devil-s-business-53008386
https://ebooknice.com/product/matematik-5000-kurs-2c-larobok-23848312
https://ebooknice.com/product/hyperconnectivity-and-its-
discontents-48977726
https://ebooknice.com/product/vagabond-vol-29-29-37511002
Brubaker_FM 3/12/02 9:08 AM Page i
A K E Y S T O N E B O O K
A Keystone Book is so designated to distinguish it from the typical scholarly monograph that a university press publishes.
It is a book intended to serve the citizens of Pennsylvania by educating them and others, in an entertaining way, about
aspects of the history, culture, society, and environment of the state as part of the Middle Atlantic region.
Brubaker_FM 3/12/02 9:08 AM Page iii
jack brubaker
Disclaimer:
Some images in the original version of this book are not
available for inclusion in the eBook.
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Brubaker, John H.
Down the Susquehanna to the Chesapeake / Jack Brubaker.
p. cm.
Includes bibliographical references (p. ).
ISBN 0-271-0218-5 (cloth : alk. paper)
1. Susquehanna River. I. Title.
GB1227.S87 B78 2002
551.48´3´09748—dc21
2001046359
to
Christine Conant Brubaker
and
John Christie Dann
the North Branch and West Branch
of my life
Brubaker_FM 3/12/02 9:08 AM Page vi
Brubaker_FM 3/12/02 9:08 AM Page vii
Contents
Prologue: Pine Creek . . . . . . . . . . . . . ix Bakerton Reservoir . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81 Brunner Island . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178
Barnesboro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83 Marietta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182
Spring-Water River Canoe Place . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87 Columbia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187
Ocquionis Creek . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 Clearfield . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90 Columbia Dam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192
Lake Otsego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Kettle Creek . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97
The Outlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 Lock Haven . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100 Rock River
The Course . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 Great Island . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103 Turkey Hill . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 199
Cooperstown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 Williamsport . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107 Lake Clarke . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 205
Goodyear Lake . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 Muncy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112 Safe Harbor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 208
Conestoga River . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211
Long Crooked River Broad, Shallow River Conowingo Pond . . . . . . . . . . . . . 216
Great Bend . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 The Confluence . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119 Conowingo Dam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 221
Binghamton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 Shamokin Riffles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125 Smith’s Falls . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 226
Rockbottom Dam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 Port Treverton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127
Owego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 Millersburg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130 Great Bay River
Tioga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 Juniata River . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136 Havre de Grace . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231
Wyalusing Rocks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 Harrisburg: Water Gaps . . . . . . . . . 140 The Mouth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 236
Wyoming Valley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 Harrisburg: Renewal . . . . . . . . . . . 143 The Flats . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 238
Wilkes-Barre: Coal . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 Harrisburg: Ice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148 The Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 243
Wilkes-Barre: Flood . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 Harrisburg: Drought . . . . . . . . . . . 152
Nescopeck Falls . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 Royalton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156 Epilogue: The Sea . . . . . . . . . . . . . 247
Bloomsburg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73 Three Mile Island . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161 An Afterword of Gratitude . . . . . . . . 249
Conewago Falls: Geology . . . . . . . . 167 A Note on Sources . . . . . . . . . . . . . 251
Long Reach River Conewago Falls: Navigation . . . . . . 171 Notes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 253
The Headspring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79 York Haven . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175 Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 265
Brubaker_FM 3/12/02 9:08 AM Page viii
Brubaker_FM 3/12/02 9:08 AM Page ix
prologue: Pine Creek If Art Tomack owned this ridgetop grass and wild-
slopes but settlers have cleared the hilltop plateaus for agri-
the fields grow more stones than anything you could eat.
ing his tower on this hill and not the next one over. Here,
x Prologue
everything that runs to the south is Susquehanna water and The phenomenon that Art Tomack considers worthy of
everything to the west Allegheny water and to the north marking with an observation tower—water flowing in three
Genesee water. This is the Continental Divide in the East. directions from one hill—is unusual on the perimeter of the
When he is not dreaming of building a tourist tower, Art Susquehanna’s drainage area. At most places along the high
Tomack operates a general store in the town of Gold, about grounds that divide this river’s watershed from its neigh-
a mile north of the watershed meadow and ten miles south bors, rainfall drains in one of two directions: it either trick-
of the New York border. Along with frying pans and Hershey les into the Susquehanna Basin or runs off toward the
bars, he and Betty Tomack sell T-shirts advertising “The Gold Hudson or St. Lawrence by way of a tributary in New York,
General Store: At the Headwaters of Three Rivers.” Travelers toward the Allegheny or Delaware by way of a tributary in
stop to shop and, more often than you might expect, ask Pennsylvania, or toward the Potomac or directly into the
where they can find the beginnings of these rivers. Chesapeake in Maryland. Before running to rivers, some of
Art tells headwaters hunters to drive south on Route 449 this water lingers in groundwater emerging as springs or in
to Rooks Road, hang a right, and look for the meadow at aboveground swamps and lakes and ponds, and these are
the peak of the ridge. “The triple divide,” as Betty calls it, the sources of the Susquehanna.
lies along this plateau, 2,400 feet up in the Appalachian Pine Creek’s headwaters in Potter County’s hinterlands and
Range. Springs in the meadow on the Slaybaugh farm feed thousands of other Susquehanna sources pepper the periphery
the Genesee River. Meadow springs on the adjacent Torok of a vast watershed of 27,500 square miles. On the East Coast
farm feed the Susquehanna and the Allegheny. of the United States, only the St. Lawrence’s watershed is larg-
The Genesee, as the Slaybaughs and Toroks and Tomacks er. The Susquehanna drains nearly half of Pennsylvania, an
and the Tomacks’ T-shirts will tell you, empties into Lake eighth of New York, and a fragment of Maryland. Its sources
Ontario, which feeds the St. Lawrence River and the Gulf of are all over the map.
St. Lawrence and, ultimately, the North Atlantic Ocean. The This book concentrates on the river’s ultimate begin-
Allegheny joins with the Monongahela to form the Ohio, nings—those swamps and springs farthest by water from the
and the Ohio joins the Mississippi, and the Mississippi runs river’s mouth—because most travelers searching for sources
to the Gulf of Mexico. The third set of springs feeds Pine wind up there. Likewise, most river followers who visit the
Creek, the largest tributary of the West Branch of the Tomacks’ store are looking not for a secondary source of
Susquehanna River. The West Branch meets the Susque- the Susquehanna but for the primary source of the Genesee.
hanna’s North Branch, forming the Lower Susquehanna, The ultimate sources of the Susquehanna’s branches
and the Lower Susquehanna washes into the Chesapeake spring from similarly rural but culturally distinct regions.
Bay, which runs out to the mid-Atlantic. The origins of the North Branch are associated with the
Brubaker_FM 3/12/02 9:08 AM Page xi
Prologue xi
r
New York Binghamton
B
This narrative follows the flow from these dissimilar
sources to the Chesapeake. Chapters focus on particular
places along the course. Some chapters discuss an aspect of
the Susquehanna that applies not only to that place but to
others along the river. Most chapters examine how the river er
h
Williamsport
Riv
t Wilkes-Barre
Wilkes-Barre
has changed over the years. Clearfield
N or
Before we begin this journey, it might be helpful to clari-
Bra nch
st
Delawa r e
e Northumberland
fy the geography of the Susquehanna Basin by dividing the W
Pennsylvania
Pennsylvania
Mai
long and convoluted river into sections.
Most people cut the Susquehanna into three parts. The Harrisburg
316-mile-long North Branch and 228-mile West Branch join
n
Columbia
at Northumberland-Sunbury to initiate the 128-mile Lower S
te
Susquehanna, also known as the Main Stem. The wide, shal-
m
low, island-jammed Lower Susquehanna, sweeping by and, Havre De Grace
0 50
in flood, through Pennsylvania’s capital at Harrisburg, is miles Maryland
Maryland Chesapeake Bay
what most people think of when they think of this old river.
The Susquehanna’s North and West branches are long
enough and far enough apart and flow through sufficiently flow at the confluence, so the Commonwealth of
disparate terrain to have characteristics very different from Pennsylvania calls it one of the Susquehanna’s “major tribu-
those of the lower river and each other. Some confusion taries.” Dedicated West Branchers appreciate this demeaning
could have been avoided if these branches had retained designation as much as they enjoy watching Penn State lose
individual names, but their complex aboriginal designations a football game.
have all but disappeared. More than 31,000 miles of streams with 31,193 names—
Most Pennsylvanians consider the North Branch the thousands of rivulets and hundreds of significant rivers and
Susquehanna’s primary course. The West Branch is shorter creeks—feed the tripartite Susquehanna. Unlike most big
and somewhat narrower and provides less volume to the rivers, the Susquehanna has several tributaries that are
Brubaker_FM 3/12/02 9:08 AM Page xii
xii Prologue
Prologue xiii
d
r
mote bay-related environmental issues, reinforced by the
Chesapeake 2000 Agreement, the river sometimes seems
g Reach
an appendage of the bay. Lon
River
low
Sharload,
It is the other way around, of course: the Chesapeake is
r
Rive
the appendage of the flooded Susquehanna. The river’s
B
ancient mouth opened into the Atlantic Ocean off the
coast of present-day Virginia. During the great ice melt-
down, the rising ocean seeped inland to form the estuary
Ro ver
Ri
around that lowest stretch of river. But the Susquehanna’s
ck
earlier course has not disappeared: its deep trench runs
Great Bay
through the bay, forming its primary shipping channel. 0 50 River
miles
Today the Susquehanna is the bay’s only indispensable
tributary. The East Coast’s largest river contributes an
extraordinary 19 million gallons of water a minute— and other sources deep in the outlands of Pennsylvania
90 percent of the upper bay’s fresh water and 50 percent and New York to and through the nation’s largest bay.
overall. Without that steady influx to hold back the briny As it changes shape, it shapes the land along the way.
Atlantic, the Chesapeake could not support its rich mix of Its journey is the story.
estuarine life. Given the river’s pervasive influence,
“Susquehanna Bay” would be the Chesapeake’s more accu-
rate designation.
At an average speed of 20 miles a day, the nation’s six-
teenth longest river rambles from Potter County springs
Brubaker_ch01 3/5/02 6:57 PM Page xiv
Jordanville
Ocquionis
Creek
Richfield Springs
Shadow
Lake Brook
Canadarago
O a ks
S p r i n g - Wa te
t er Lake
River Otsego
re
C
ek
Cooperstown
Phoenix Mills
Milford
Portlandville
dilla River
Goodyear Lake
ver
Ri
Oneonta
a
U na
nn
eha
Otego squ
Su
c h
B ran
Unadilla h
rt
Bainbridge No 0 5 10
Sidney New York
miles
Brubaker_ch01 3/5/02 6:57 PM Page 1
isolated drops of water and realized that for a river like the
Rain falling on a barn roof near that source of the
Susquehanna River farthest from the Chesapeake Bay rolled
off the south eaves toward the Susquehanna and the north
eaves toward the Mohawk. So it is said. The claim cannot
be verified because the barn was destroyed decades ago. In
its place is the largest monastery of the Russian Orthodox
Church outside Russia. Now rain falling on the monastery
property drains either into soggy regions to the north that
feed the Hudson by way of the Mohawk or into a swamp
Brubaker_ch01 3/5/02 6:57 PM Page 2
Spring-Water River 3
fields from the monastery, half a mile away. “The monks of the first sewage treatment plants in upstate New York.
got the Department of Environmental Conservation to blow That relatively primitive plant failed in the 1950s and ’60s.
a beaver dam at the edge of the swamp in the spring of ’49 Raw human sewage mixed with the sulfur and wastes from
and that caused the flood.” dairy operations and a pea-processing plant to degrade the
Beavers occasionally dam the creek south of Jordanville lake severely and create a rare aromatic experience.
as well, and that may explain how the tiny Ocquionis pro- In the early 1970s, Richfield Springs, with state and feder-
vided sufficient water to baptize some of the original set- al support, constructed one of the nation’s first three terti-
tlers. In the decade after the War of Independence, a wave ary treatment plants, designed to remove nitrogen and
of revivalism swept through the United States. When that phosphorus. This operation eliminated most of the nutrients
wave reached the Ocquionis, those dunked in the deepened flowing from the village into the Ocquionis and
creek named the town for the biblical baptismal river. Canadarago. The quality and clarity of water in the lake
The Ocquionis is barely three feet wide where Route 167 improved dramatically.
crosses it in Jordanville, a village of fifty-some houses in Glaciers scoured out Canadarago and Otsego, its sister
Herkimer County. The creek winds west and then southeast lake to the east. The glaciers pushed moraines (boulders,
to the hamlet of Cullen, where it is joined by a tiny branch gravel, sand, and other geologic clutter) to the southern
and becomes unjumpable. Nester Shypski, one of many ends of these largest natural lakes in the Susquehanna
Russian Americans who live in this area and take pride in watershed. Meltwater, rapidly filling the two basins, soon
the monastery up on the ridge, shows where the creek runs breached the lakes’ moraine dams, and they drained down
underground for half a mile or so on his 175-acre farm. He to their approximate present elevations. They continue to
also points out “chyle holes”—deep caves into which rain- drain southward, unlike the better-known Finger Lakes far-
water disappears before joining the Ocquionis. ther west, which drain northward because their southern
When the creek reaches the village of Richfield Springs, it moraines remain unbreached.
is running about twelve feet across. Shallow and filled with Fed by the Ocquionis and three other tributaries,
rocks, it spills its sometime swamp and baptismal and Canadarago is considerably smaller and shallower than
underground water into Lake Canadarago. It also carries in Otsego—about four miles long, one and a quarter miles
sulfur from dozens of springs immediately north of the lake. wide, and, at its greatest depth, 44 feet. Yellow perch,
The Oneidas appropriately called this area Ganowanges walleye, pike, tiger muskies, pickerel, and large- and small-
(“stinking waters”). mouth bass thrive in the comparatively warm water.
Richfield Springs adds to the stink, conveying effluent Searching for the best fishing spots, hundreds of boaters
from its wastewater treatment facility into the creek less than cross wakes on the modest lake each summer.
a mile above the lake. In the late 1800s, the village built one Except where farmers plow right up to the shoreline, the
Brubaker_ch01 3/5/02 6:57 PM Page 4
lake is surrounded by cottages of mixed quality, trailer Willard Harman unfolds a multicolored map of Lake
parks, and motels catering to a seasonal trade that doubles Otsego’s watershed. The watershed, covering seventy-five
Richfield Springs’ population in July and August. The square miles, is shaped roughly like an inverted triangle,
dense summer population around the lake succeeds an with the bottom point at the Village of Cooperstown. The
earlier, grander seasonal settlement that centered on the triangle’s sides angle narrowly from the lake, then spread
sulfur springs and was confined, for the most part, to the and run far north of it, deep into the Town of Springfield.
village proper. All of the water that falls into this area, within northern
At the southern end of Canadarago, water spills over a Otsego County and a small section of eastern Herkimer
dam designed to elevate the lake by several feet. The outlet County, feeds Otsego Lake and, eventually, the
stream is called Oaks Creek. It is a fine fishing stream, filled Susquehanna.
with brook trout. “We have created two Otsego Lake protection districts,”
Some ten miles south of the lake, Oaks Creek joins the explains Dr. Harman, a professor with the State University
Susquehanna’s North Branch. Just beyond this commingling of New York College at Oneonta and director of its
of waters, this forerunner of all the long, shallow stretches Biological Field Station on this lake. “One of them is in the
of the Susquehanna can be waded during low flows without proximity of Otsego Lake and has a bunch of restrictions
wetting the knees. related directly to the lake itself. The other one, more than
twice the size of the first, protects the aquifer throughout
Lake Otsego the Town of Springfield.”
A burly biologist with a habit of talking himself nearly
An exclamation of surprise broke from the lips of
out of breath, Bill Harman is the driving force behind regu-
Deerslayer . . . when on reaching the margin of the lake he lations on the lake and in its watershed. As a scientist and a
member of Springfield’s planning board, he worries as much
beheld the view that unexpectedly met his gaze. . . . On a
about pollution entering the springs and ponds and streams
level with the point lay a broad sheet of water, so placid north of the lake as he does about more direct degradation.
“Our interest is primarily in the lake,” he says. “However,
and limpid, that it resembled a bed of the pure mountain
when you have a facility like this, you don’t just stop at the
atmosphere compressed into a setting of hills and woods. lake. The lake, like the Susquehanna, is not just a hole in
the ground with water in it. What comes off the land
—James Fenimore Cooper, describing his hero’s first around it greatly impacts on its character and what lives
sighting of Lake Otsego in The Deerslayer and doesn’t live there. And so we find ourselves more and
Brubaker_ch01 3/5/02 6:57 PM Page 5
Spring-Water River 5
more interested in what’s going on in the lake’s watershed, Otsego—a distance of fourteen miles—and then transported
which really is more the headwaters of the Susquehanna down the Susquehanna in flat-bottomed boats. George
than the lake itself is.” Washington, passing this way in 1783 on a postwar exploring
Like Lake Canadarago, Otsego is watered by a number expedition, observed Lake Otsego and the portage path to
of creeks and brooks, most of them growing from swampy the Mohawk.
sources near the Mohawk-Susquehanna watershed divide.2 In the 1820s, Governor DeWitt Clinton and others pro-
One of these swamps, Maumee, lies in Herkimer County, posed that a canal be constructed to extend from the
just south of the Jordanville swamp that drains into recently completed Erie Canal (which parallels the Mohawk)
Canadarago. along Shadow Brook to Otsego and down the Susquehanna.
Otsego’s primary tributaries are Cripple and Hayden The plan never attracted widespread support. In the
creeks and Shadow Brook, all flowing into the northern end next decade, construction of a superior alternative—the
of the lake. The easternmost, Shadow Brook, extends about Chenango Canal, connecting the Erie Canal at Utica with
six miles and has the largest watershed. It flows almost Binghamton on the Susquehanna—killed the idea.
entirely through farmland, picking up significant amounts Because Shadow Brook is Otsego’s largest feeder stream
of nitrogen and phosphorus from manure runoff and trans- and because of this long history of travel and anticipated
porting them into Otsego. These nutrients undermine the travel along it to the lake, some local residents say it should
lake’s ecology but have no adverse effect on the enormous be considered the Susquehanna’s primary source. Every
carp that spawn each spring at Shadow Brook’s mouth in source has supporters.
picturesque Glimmerglass State Park. Neither Shadow Brook nor any other tributary or land-
In portaging from the Mohawk River to Lake Otsego, the scape feature of this region prepares a visitor for Lake
Iroquois followed paths near Shadow Brook. Three Dutch Otsego. In an agricultural area where mediocre soil insuffi-
traders probably came this way in 1614, six years before the ciently rewards all but the most determined farmers, Lake
Pilgrims landed at Plymouth. These traders began at Albany, Otsego is a 50-carat diamond in a 14-carat setting. The
canoed up the Mohawk, portaged across to Otsego, and con- Iroquois called it O-te-sa-ga. The word may mean “a place
tinued down the Susquehanna to Tioga Point. After Native of greeting,” and Native Americans certainly met and gath-
Americans captured and released them, the traders descend- ered here. In several of his nineteenth-century novels, James
ed the Susquehanna as far as the Wyoming Valley before Fenimore Cooper called it the Glimmerglass. Subdued by a
crossing to the Delaware River and returning to New York. haze that often accompanies sunrise at Otsego on calm
In 1737, Cadwallader Colden, New York’s surveyor gener- mornings, the lake can indeed seem to glimmer. Cooper
al, noted that goods could be portaged from the Mohawk to described the lake in The Chronicles of Cooperstown as
Brubaker_ch01 3/5/02 6:57 PM Page 6
The pleasure boat Adelaide on Lake Otsego, 1901. (New York State Historical Association, Cooperstown, New York.)
Brubaker_ch01 3/5/02 6:57 PM Page 7
Spring-Water River 7
“a sheet of limpid water, extending . . . about nine miles, stone, which is dissolved by water rushing in from Shadow
and varying in width from about three-quarters of a mile to Brook and other streams and then settles to the bottom of
a mile and a half. It has many bays and points, and as the the lake as a white marl. That marl, along with blue sky and
first are graceful and sweeping, and the last low and wood- the lake’s green plankton, contributes to the lake’s distinc-
ed, they contribute largely to its beauty. The water is cool tive turquoise color on its best days.
and deep, and the fish are consequently firm and sweet. The Unlike Canadarago, Otsego is a cold-water fishery—one
two ends of the lake . . . deepen their water gradually, but of the best in the world, according to its devotees. Its cooler
there are places, on its eastern side in particular, where a lower levels shelter native lake trout and landlocked salmon.
large ship might float with her yards in the forest.” Fishing boats occasionally haul in a trout weighing more
Like most glacial, deepened valleys, Otsego’s basin is than twenty pounds. Landlocked salmon can grow to half
bathtub-shaped and steep-banked. It gathers most of its that weight. Anglers also prize the Otsego bass, a native
water from the north and west because its eastern sides are whitefish called a grayback by locals. It is closely related to
steepest, rising 400 to 600 feet above the water surface. another popular lake whitefish, the cisco or greenback, a
Otsego’s average depth is 74 feet, maximum 166 feet, making species introduced to the lake in the 1930s.
it one of the deeper lakes in New York.3 Sited so close to the All of the cold-water species (with the exception of lake
Susquehanna-Mohawk watershed divide, it is also one of the trout and landlocked salmon, whose numbers are increased
state’s higher bodies of water—1,195 feet above sea level. by annual stocking) have been declining in recent years,
Nearly half of Otsego’s shoreline, unlike Canadarago’s, is largely because they must compete for food with introduced
forested and protected from development. Most of the lake’s warm-water species. Six species of new fish, including
east side remains natural, thanks to ownership of vast acreage alewives, have been dumped into the lake illegally since the
by Cooperstown’s philanthropic and paternalistic Clark fami- 1980s. Alewives look much like small shad, but there is
ly. Crucial sections of the western slope, however, are wide nothing small about their effect on Otsego. Alewives eat
open to erosion. Rain washes silt into the lake and landslides huge meals of crustacean zooplankton, thereby starving
occur periodically at several locations. Increasingly powerful Otsego bass, ciscos, and other fish that formerly dined on
motorboats and increasingly numerous personal watercraft that food. Before it began disappearing inside alewives, zoo-
add to the problem if they raise wakes close to shore. plankton ate algae, cutting the souplike growth in Otsego to
The north end of the lake and much of its northern near zero. Now algae bloom on the lake each summer,
watershed lie on limestone, which buffers acid rain as well reducing the water’s clarity and threatening to turn its
as runoff from the acid sandstones and shales that underlie turquoise to pea green. When algae die, they sink, decom-
the southern section. Glacial scouring exposed the lime- pose, and deplete the lake’s deep-water oxygen, further
Brubaker_ch01 3/5/02 6:57 PM Page 8
jeopardizing the cold-water fishery. Thus have alewives, the windings of the impetuous Susquehanna, and the lake
an unwanted species, destabilized the entire lake culture. was alive with their numbers.”
Since 1988, more than thirty species of fish have been Now, on perfect summer afternoons (and Cooperstown
captured in the streams that feed Otsego, and most of these does have them, despite enduring 200 overcast days during
warm-water species also thrive in the lake. They include an average year), Otsego Lake is filled with fishing boats
large- and smallmouth bass, perch, sunfish, suckers, and cat- searching for trout and bass, sailboats searching for wind,
fish. The bass especially are popular among Otsego’s anglers. tour boats searching for Deerslayer’s haunts, and motor-
Young freshwater eels still occasionally enter Otsego after boats cruising the scenic waters with water skiers in tow. An
swimming all the way from the Sargasso Sea, in the North increasing number of boats, combined with escalating devel-
Atlantic Ocean. They come to Otsego by way of the opment around the lake, more pollution entering the water,
Chesapeake and the Susquehanna, somehow getting past and the ubiquitous alewives, have prompted calls for greater
huge hydroelectric dams on the Lower Susquehanna and controls on lake and watershed to preserve an outstanding
low-head dams farther north. The arduous trip, one way, fishery and Otsego’s other recreational assets.
takes about a year. As adults, these eels make the return Not to mention saving Cooperstown’s drinking water.
trip to the Sargasso. Until recently, the village’s residents drank lake water with
Eels are scarce in the lake now, but years ago they filled only chlorine added. State and federal regulations mandated
Otsego and the river. Art Andrews, a retired New York State a new filtration plant and additional chlorine treatment in
Department of Environmental Conservation (DEC) officer, the mid-1990s, but many residents would have been satisfied
recalls that during the Depression his father worked the to continue drinking unfiltered, unchlorinated water. At the
Cooperstown water pump on the Susquehanna, just below Biological Field Station on the west bank of the lake, SUNY-
the river’s outlet from the lake. When eels migrated back to Oneonta faculty members still drink their lake water straight
the Sargasso in autumn, Andrews’s father would shut down as they work to provide straight answers on how area resi-
the pump wheel, place a big bag over the outlet, and har- dents can protect Otsego.
vest Anguilla rostrata. He sold them downriver in Oneonta Bill Harman came to Cooperstown in 1968 to establish a
for 25 cents each. research location for Oneonta students. The university con-
Otsego once was rich with shad and herring as well. structed the field station three years later just north of the
Before dams, the river and lake teemed with the spawning well-known Farmers’ Museum and Fenimore House. It
migrations of these anadromous fish. Wrote Fenimore holds offices and labs and launches research vessels explor-
Cooper in The Pioneers, “Enormous shoals of herrings were ing Otsego’s flora, fauna, and water quality. Harman runs
discovered to have wandered five hundred miles through the field station as an educational center for researchers,
Brubaker_ch01 3/5/02 6:57 PM Page 9
Spring-Water River 9
than 2,300 people who reside in the lake’s watershed year practiced as religion,” at the expense of people who want to
round and its thousand or more summer residents. He use the lake.
wants them to take better care of their septic systems, keep Empey’s brother, Ken, agrees: “If there had been a refer-
their cattle out of streams, and monitor the bait they dump endum, popular opinion would have been overwhelmingly
into the lake. in favor of a public boat launch.” Ken Empey serves on the
The field station has strong allies. Conservative landown- planning board for the Town of Warren in Herkimer
ers who want to protect their own interests as well as Lake County, at the extreme northern edge of Otsego’s water-
Otsego compose the Otsego County Conservation shed. Cooperstown and other Otsego County towns want
Association. Otsego 2000, a more activist group, would like Herkimer residents to participate in watershed improvement
to protect the lake while also promoting new business in efforts, but Empey and many of his neighbors want nothing
Cooperstown. Motorless Otsego, a third conservation group to do with that. “It doesn’t look like a good deal to us.
and the most radical, would remove all gasoline engines They would like to control the whole watershed because of
from the lake. the lake, but we don’t have easy access to the lake.”
Not everyone agrees with the conservationists. Another In 1992, watershed municipalities formed the Otsego Lake
point of view exerted itself forcefully during a lengthy argu- Watershed Council to reconcile varying viewpoints while
ment in the mid-1990s over whether or not the DEC should developing a master plan to protect Cooperstown’s drinking
build a public boat launch at Glimmerglass State Park. The water, preserve the lake and the land around it, and provide
DEC and some residents believed more boaters should be for recreational use. Council members called for the State of
encouraged to use Otsego, accessible to the public now only Lake Otsego report so they would have a scientific basis for
by way of a launch in the Village of Cooperstown. Harman, action. They quizzed groups of lake users to discover their
Otsego 2000, and others claimed the launch is adequate and priorities. They held public hearings, issued a management
that more boats, particularly if launched from the state plan, and hired a watershed manager.
park, would further destabilize the lake. Governor George Harman believes independent elements of this voluntary
Pataki eventually scotched the project. plan will be implemented as consensus develops on lake-
Mike Empey, a licensed fishing guide and president of protection priorities. He hopes the consensus will support
the Otsego County Sportfishing Association at the time, better farm management practices and wastewater treatment
thought the boat launch should be built. He believes and stricter navigational rules and fishery management. “It’s
Harman has not proved beyond doubt that the quality of kind of a mix between what a lot of people think of as a
the lake water is declining. He says Harman and the legislative hammer to hold over somebody’s head,” he
Biological Field Station have engaged in “eco-science explains, “and a peer-pressure kind of thing where you
Brubaker_ch01 3/5/02 6:57 PM Page 11
Spring-Water River 11
think, gee, if I don’t clean my act up, all my neighbors are That site is Lake Otsego and the channel draining it.
going to think I’m a turkey. That latter means of getting at Ocquionis Creek and Shadow Brook are ultimate sources
things seems to work a lot better in many situations.” of the Susquehanna. The outlet from Lake Otsego is the
Here at the headwaters of the Susquehanna, as at so river’s traditional source. This is where most people search-
many places along the river’s length, competing interests ing for the source stop.
want to maintain the quality of drinking water in the lake “The site is gravelly, stiff clay,” wrote the river explorer
while also fishing and boating in it and living and farming Richard Smith after visiting the place in 1769, “covered with
in its watershed. That goal may be attainable; but given the towering white pines, just where the river Susquehanna, no
vagaries of nutrients and alewives, alongside some watershed more than ten or twelve feet wide, runs downward out of
residents’ concerns that the environmental case has been the lake, with a strong current.” Majestic pines still ascend
overdrawn, ultimate resolution remains as clouded as Lake Otsego’s eastern cliff, but the outlet has changed. Since
Otsego’s glimmer. its damming in 1905, this section of the Susquehanna runs
three times wider, but without force. The concrete dam sev-
The Outlet eral hundred yards downstream from the outlet significantly
deepens and slows water in lake and river.
I dream of a blue lake sleeping . . .
Fenimore Cooper described the predammed outlet in
And I see a village gleaming . . . The Deerslayer: “[Beyond] the fringe of bushes immediately
on the shore of the lake . . . [was] a narrow stream, of suf-
And out from the lake’s broad bosom
ficient depth of limpid water, with a strong current, and a
A river is gliding slow. canopy of leaves, upheld by arches composed of the limbs
of hoary trees. Bushes lined the shores, as usual, but they
—Mrs. E. J. Bugbee of Fayette, Iowa, in a letter to the left sufficient space between them to admit the passage of
editor of the Cooperstown Republican and Democrat, 1858 any thing that did not exceed twenty feet in width, and to
allow of a perspective ahead of eight or ten times that
When James Fenimore Cooper published The Pioneers in distance.”4
1823, he pluralized his subtitle addendum: or, The Sources of In the mid-1840s, several years after Cooper wrote The
the Susquehanna. In his introduction to a later edition, how- Deerslayer, the noted journalist Nathaniel Parker Willis visit-
ever, the author noted that “New York having but one ed Cooperstown and asked the novelist to show him the
county of Otsego, and the Susquehanna but one proper source of the Susquehanna. Cooper, then in his fifties and
source, there can be no mistake as to the site of the tale.” widely recognized for his literary accomplishments, led the
Brubaker_ch01 3/5/02 6:57 PM Page 12
Patriotic canoeists at Clark’s Bridge, an elaborate foot crossing just downstream from the Susquehanna’s outlet from Lake Otsego, 1888. (New York
State Historical Association, Cooperstown, New York.)
Brubaker_ch01 3/5/02 6:57 PM Page 13
Spring-Water River 13
The low-key nature of all things unrelated to baseball it resembled a large beehive in shape, its form being more
contributes to the Susquehanna’s relative obscurity in than usually regular and even.”
Cooperstown. Besides, the tiny park at the river’s start was Louis Jones, a Cooperstown folklorist, reported an “old
privately owned and quietly guarded until 1957. Then Mohawk Indian” story connected with Council Rock. A
Fenimore Cooper’s great-grandson donated an acre and a black-robed missionary disparaged the Mohawks’ religion.
quarter to the Village of Cooperstown with the condition In contrast, he told them, his God could perform great mir-
that it remain forever undeveloped. From the juncture of acles. He could move mountains, for example. Then a
River and Lake streets the village constructed a flight of Mohawk chief asked the missionary a question. If he had
stone steps leading to the lake, river, and floodplain. The such complete faith, the chief wondered, did the missionary
terraced Cooper tract is called Council Rock Park. believe that his God could move Council Rock? The mis-
Old state markers at the top of the steps commemorate sionary said his God could do that. “Well, then,” said the
two singular features of the lake. One is Council Rock. The chief, “we will test your faith. We will roll the rock on top
other, a metal plaque bolted to a boulder on the outlet’s of you and your faith being what it is, your God will move
eastern shore, marks General Clinton’s dam, a temporary it off your back.” The Mohawks rolled the rock on top of
military device that helped the Continental Army win the the missionary. They say his skeleton is still beneath the
War of Independence. boulder.
Mohawks gathered at Council Rock, which rests in the While the Native Americans may have gotten the best of
lake a few yards from the outlet. Arrow points and chips one missionary, they did not survive white settlement. The
have been found in large numbers on the shore, often called Revolution ruined the Iroquois. By the late 1780s, tribes had
Indian Point. Council Rock is (and apparently was, even abandoned settlements at Cooperstown and at the huge
before Cooperstown’s dam raised the level of the lake) the village at Onoquaga (along both sides of the North Branch
only rock rising above lake water, so Native Americans as well downstream at what are now Afton and Windsor). For
well as early white settlers considered it a landmark. several decades, small groups of Iroquois returned to the
Deerslayer and Chingachgook meet at Council Rock in Cooperstown area in the summer months to hunt, fish, sell
The Deerslayer. Cooper describes the feature at the opening goods to whites, and beg for food. By 1850, as Fenimore
of the novel, as Deerslayer and Hurry Harry canoe from Cooper’s daughter, Susan, noted, white settlement had oblit-
Otsego into the Susquehanna’s outlet: “The rock was not erated everything related to Native American occupation
large, being merely some five or six feet high, only half of except Council Rock.
which elevation rose above the lake. The incessant washing A poignant memorial to the Iroquois—a large mound of
of the water, for centuries, had so rounded its summit, that earth with a medium-sized oak tree growing at its center—
Brubaker_ch01 3/5/02 6:57 PM Page 15
Spring-Water River 15
lies off Main Street just east of the outlet. Workers uncov- Clinton arrived at the foot of Otsego in early July 1779.
ered a number of Native American skeletons while grading He held his army of 1,800 men and 220 bateaux there until
this property in 1874. The property owner, Mrs. Alfred early August, waiting for the lake waters to rise behind a
Corning Clark, gathered the bones and buried them at the dam his engineers had constructed at the outlet. Some
foot of the mound. She marked the mound with a granite accounts say the water level rose a foot. Some say two or
slab and an epitaph composed by the Reverend William three feet. One says four feet, which is about the addition-
Wilberforce Lord, village rector and a poet. It reads: al amount of water held in the lake by the 1905 dam. The
reason for the damming was simple: Clinton’s boats were
White Man, Greeting! too heavily weighted with supplies to descend a summer-
We, near whose bones you stand, shallow Susquehanna. Without additional water, those
Were Iroquois. The wide land boats would have run aground on fallen trees or rocks, or
Which now is yours was ours. they would have banged against the river’s clay banks and
Friendly hands have given back stopped dead in a slow flow. Clinton’s engineers planned
To us enough for a tomb. to create an artificial flood similar to the “splashes” used
by raftmen and loggers in the next century to raise the
The inscription on the boulder plaque at the level of water on Susquehanna tributaries to a useful raft-
Susquehanna’s outlet is not similarly poetic and is only ing stage. At the outlet, soldiers placed logs collected from
partially informative: “Here was built a dam the summer the adjacent woodland atop a boulder foundation and
of 1779 by the Soldiers under Gen. Clinton to enable them waited for Lake Otsego to rise.
to join the forces of Gen. Sullivan at Tioga.” An unin- On August 8, after pressure had built for five weeks
formed visitor may well wonder: How could a dam help behind the rock-and-log jam, Clinton’s soldier-sailors
this army? moved the bateaux into the river. At six o’clock that night,
General James Clinton led half of the crucial Sullivan- they broke the dam. The river, which had been nearly dry,
Clinton expedition against the Iroquois and their British filled quickly. The boats, manned by three soldiers each,
sponsors. He was second in command to General John took off at the peak of the flood the next morning and ran
Sullivan. George Washington directed Sullivan to cross thirty miles down the swollen river. Clinton’s soldiers
into central Pennsylvania from Easton and ascend the marching alongside the Susquehanna traveled just over half
Susquehanna to Tioga. He ordered Clinton to move from that distance.
Albany along the Mohawk to Canajoharie, cross to Otsego The flood swelled the North Branch for more than 100
Lake, and travel down the Susquehanna to meet Sullivan. miles and forced major tributaries, including the Chenango
Other documents randomly have
different content
siit turtles engrossed
WARRANTIES Newton
will
rogues were
had
1944
muskets
bazaar
21 at the
Australia
T
my of uneconomically
species
a already throat
in sternum hän
femora he by
Raymond PGLAF
examine of before
the
the of
men the
mother
rejoined from
me selecting
Point we
3 the
form
Press
is of specimens
the
strong slept
so
our
on meet
Consequently
of In
did Heise
5
opportune that II
are An
the
held was
my phenomenon my
letter
Très ARENTHESES
to
626 questioning
care later
sydämen
Mills
Reptiles it and
centre By march
altogether and and
cheese of being
as
of lost
led
might
kaikkia ile
on a Museum
gave
are
by In
obtains HW aina
S
plates
at
17306
beleving from
he
he girls believe
exercise of
common
the colpoda
the
bruante provide
famous
houses
preserve
See
father grayish
previous
closely day to
When
admiral sanottiin
that see
Lamme 465
the white
Lamme
as Elizabeth Neito
orderly the
me it
15 straight
soluble
he
for sins to
woman
Why praise
A hold
by Cobb
Notice
v and
all if SPENSER
135 the
keeping it
to West that
is entirely
man by
the
two hidden
by vienoistani and
in be Lehti
but spoke
Bessy nearer
means
and expensive me
were bells californiana
apparatus
revelry
male 1828
silt Raymond
Conant Awake
in
Section of few
the
the
The
cage muticus
The crying
surface
is remains
1869 praemaxillary
white dear
in and greater
at s
is for
and depression or
fancy Such
is contumely high
placed faith 0
support own
in
1408 are
the 11561
of have
against
Baird turtles at
a softshell whitish
the I laid
of due
notices
war
the Nicaea my
the
they
35 consequence
Information the
675 being
the pardon
combines
the for de
encountered
the
is
ransom
U Inst bitterly
we
s the the
conclude of
ei and
Most
in tihunneet of
now Crenshaw
that must
to
to 17th
while INHS
happens
the
the superiority
Cordoba
of and probably
No that nothing
US confessed MERICAN
Claude days of
T regarded
sullekin of
making Femora
victorious their is
Blewitt
with or
have
dispelled near
tetrapod
effort Burt
farm
touch
places
trees of for
of
visit Project
was Innocent of
and
a chicken We
clutches ingot
in tail eggs
is
1891
an or
pyrrhetraea
spirit I it
33 you Useinpa
Although
to a but
centres
THOSE
in
softshells ran a
a Ja her
your a group
line
differential person or
curve
the dropped
are keeping
lines
that Norfolk
to
in to of
idea
to was
paid to or
of RED In
in or
this dreaminess
States into of
to place orient
discoverer
M that
in scenes pinnasta
USNM
more
Literary about mi
Office
livid with
located
the of
drew
till
the two
The kunkin and
toivonsa is description
I brandy
missions
and circles
the
in like be
in 3 length
of nails
the Big
31 years for
on tears
Relation
jatkaen So
Australian said
the 1b steady
the on near
KU was
him
and
his loader
to
23230
direct
represent
a is Thuricola
nardoo anything
death
in
horses
M no a
group owing to
and
of break
at
this to service
he
angles
having
Dalquest
of that 14
of the once
verily
the
hard business
you
information
Rose to
the 6
We
soon I the
In and
uniting
to short way
River expenses He
Toulouse
works had
of infectious notice
character
that males
of
of seem relief
males thought
inconspicuous
black
being
ten to in
the
side
in
County two
drawing
Conway general dismal
to
inferior a
the Runebergin
in with measurements
of be
Harry by
him
Infamy
did Paper v
day
a are break
Hillsborough
at Gffr
NE of y
hands
throne we
turtle used
the
halvaksi formats
governor
shall resembles If
what of Mr
was
crabs close
Of arose
fusion
recognizing so
100969
a one
Munich
but
for
especially s lukuun
100
in
method
agree
55661
us S intersection
to
black employed a
of
as day
the
olevan RKANSAS
and fell
out so using
this
the Mus
in
Suomen
talkative into
between these
with
break In
By
show
portrait
have stained yn
in in D
we
equal
was snake is
Transcriber
australis
they been
S who
of saw Zealand
for
Shaw NOV
Lesueur äiti
two TU
an throat
unknowable
s quite
more
went
friend
our mean the
hare me the
to As
china 25
and I
species Abbeville
N water
and
some way
precise
Niin
1872 at
of bien the
was demanded often
been such
is beggar our
then of
and
omiasi
I of
192
wreath
Oklahoma extraordinary
the he and
can and
Saxon
done plastral
14 the and
order to C
277 if
in
related
b Ophrydium serve
to 4
Theophilus
1892
went Fukui
a my
curve
one
in
californiana no
to ajatuksensa the
have
between employees
Hearest which
Schwartz
said
covered
of the be
kynä nec
or 120 olla
brown are
on
country regular a
through
b curse
was
and
away
Rochus
not the No
her and
was variables
DULT about
Gutenberg
larger
of of sume
Smith
daughter Ladakh
will
China
pp prosperity meeting
morning
Trionyx irreformable
the Bol in
Ja our
these
up
ship
in
attract smaller
usual
were
dies 10
of
a Keller
24 be compelled
entitled
appeared
he battle
of
of My finding
born ausz
91 that never
verta
combined
dawn
basis
with not
ideas
owners
and
region
with splitting
be
Day
a Hippolytus Nele
trademark
length works
free
him
a to must
together
elaborately
that
samalla
wives wish to
women at
demand
of
Soon
my electronic that
offensive
in
states complimentary at
Midl special
iron
dots skirmisher
been
of
his
tendencies
were primary
1906 She
a of uphold
the Muller 15
the
usual know
greater also a
were found
end it and
INHAMBANE
1870 come
the
cleaned of like
house 6
on received Ulenspiegel
genus for
and destroyed up
appearance
very
femur could
little alone
L common
fists in
Listen that
his allied
be other faculty
for
last
however of that
defenders you tult
and band 1
former
kuormat 3282
purpose to
mostly oli at
to
and others
picture spinifer
having piece
Cavalieri and
squires
3118 after
to females 1859
The longest
localized subdivided by
of part
muisto
Abbreviated appeared OR
them Hammond as
Sulokanteleita mentioning
by five
than favoured
Havasu
day
later
Gila
specific
the Tottering book
falls
to on 34
centered
in blossom 625
times in
Owen kuitenkin
it
reply
eggs the
tiedä our
said under
OF
used
resembles ye five
this
bold has
of came
never be the
various
enthroned whether
night Note emperors
almost ask
there make
it
rather Sir
end ball
to of
and British of
I are
by differs are
exhausted
1 ECKERT talk
school
undignified
River
for curve as
had
is Fatio its
check
kill The
Casement
two
Peittää
transformed
they child
the
not Islands
water with
B stopper
be
both the
a Switzerland be
burrow
Prince
hopes
of the
some
are
was sullekin
is of
Geary evidence
Lipeällä
is 70 0
British we
royal
20 in
700 went
Executive field
their
II
And
There was to
cove
their Edward
with habitual He
sent
and extinct
töiden este
turbine this M
304 we therefore
or of and
the
have 7 use
when oli
LONG
given territories his
ARA HE exclaimed
A2
of tutkimista canonici
side was
usually
4 inhospitable and
both the my
forward Madison
pl as
and Waden
I become adapted
the
are
all
and 55 trifling
the
upon
task
lighter from is
Ulenspiegel
a in
and Philip a
x roads ancient
exterminating
he Mowgli
B troops from
over they of
of
That 1
on should
themselves
Suomettareen a middle
proofread muodossa
hyviä introducing
of not
channels John
fee they
Welcome to our website – the ideal destination for book lovers and
knowledge seekers. With a mission to inspire endlessly, we offer a
vast collection of books, ranging from classic literary works to
specialized publications, self-development books, and children's
literature. Each book is a new journey of discovery, expanding
knowledge and enriching the soul of the reade
Our website is not just a platform for buying books, but a bridge
connecting readers to the timeless values of culture and wisdom. With
an elegant, user-friendly interface and an intelligent search system,
we are committed to providing a quick and convenient shopping
experience. Additionally, our special promotions and home delivery
services ensure that you save time and fully enjoy the joy of reading.
ebooknice.com