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 Joachim Mensing

Beautiful
SCENT
The Magical Effect
of Perfume on Well-Being
Beautiful SCENT
Joachim Mensing

Beautiful SCENT
The Magical Effect of Perfume on Well-Being
Joachim Mensing
Miami Beach, FL, USA

ISBN 978-3-662-67258-7 ISBN 978-3-662-67259-4 (eBook)

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-662-67259-4

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 V

How nice that you have taken this book in your hand—and maybe even bought it.
With 15 chapters, the book can already be described as a “thick tome”; And all those
who do not count themselves among the absolute bookworms may still be a little
skeptical, but you don't have to be. Because in front of you is a journey that can also
be immersed in stages. I promise you: Our 15 destinations are anything but boring,
and in the end you will belong to the insiders of a fascinating industry that fascinates
others with its wealth of knowledge.
 VII

A journey into the world, trends and future, but also into the history of perfume and its
industry with the latest findings from psychology, aromatherapy, brain research, and
neuroperfumery, how scents can work for our well-being.
Preface

Dear reader,
Welcome to a journey into the world, trends, and future of perfumes.
This book—“Beautiful Scent”, published Summer 2023—is a translation of the
German edition—“Schöner Riechen”, published 2021—but contains thrilling up-
dates and captivating additions that will enhance our journey. On this journey I
want to share with you current insider knowledge of a fascinating industry. In par-
ticular, I will introduce you to the latest findings from psychology, aromatherapy,
brain research, and neuroperfumery and show you how scents can work even more
targeted for our well-being.
Sometimes our journey also leads into the past, into the history of perfume, in
which many new, surprising, but also amusing discoveries await us.
You may be wondering what motivated a psychologist like me to write a book
called Beautiful Scent. Well, for more than 30 years, beautiful smells have deter-
mined my professional practice, both in therapy and, above all, in the fields of per-
fumery and the perfume industry. As a fragrance psychologist and trend coach with
perfume training at one of the big fragrance manufacturers, I was involved in the
creation of numerous, often even award-winning perfumes. For a long time now, I
have been sharing my experiences, above all of how perfumes work on us humans
and how they can work even better in the future, with an interested audience in lec-
tures on the subject of “beautiful scent” and in the training course “perfume in-
sider”, which I offer you in this book. In all of this, I count myself among the lucky
people who can say that they have made their hobby their profession. The world of
scents and their effects has exerted an undiminished fascination on me for decades.
And the most beautiful effect of a perfume is that it can specifically create more joie
de vivre.
But why now a book about “beautiful scent” or the effect of scent and perfume?
In the perfume industry, almost revolutionary developments can currently be ob-
served. Groundbreaking discoveries and innovations in the most diverse areas of
the perfume industry—for example in the field of neuroperfumery or in brain re-
search relevant to the perfume industry, fragrance psychology and therapy, as well
as fragrance selection and advice—are changing an entire industry. In addition,
there are new approaches to the work of perfumers and fragrance development. I
will report on all these topics in a well-understood, entertaining, and exciting way.
I will meet a scientific claim by means of literature references which will also
help you to deepen the various aspects on your own.
Beforehand, I would like to explain something for a better terminological under-
standing. When I talk about perfumery, I mean two areas:
5 The world in which perfumers create fragrances. This is about the world of the
fragrance industry, but also about the world of scientific research. The latter, for
example, investigates how we smell, how scents work, but also why we perfume
ourselves at all.
5 The world of stationary and online perfumeries, i.e. the so-called perfume spe-
cialist trade, which is about advising and selling perfumes, care and other beauty
products to the end consumer.
Preface
IX 
Sometimes the two areas overlap. But I will always make it clear which one I am re-
ferring to when using the term “perfumery”.

z What do I want to achieve with this book?

The latest findings—in particular in the areas of neuroperfumery and fragrance
psychology—are to be an inspiration for the practice of perfumery. This is primar-
ily about perfume development and creation, but also about trade, marketing, and
consulting, as well as the exciting field of fragrance therapy. In the first eight chap-
ters of this book, I will virtually introduce you to these topics, refresh your knowl-
edge about perfumery, and make you an insider of perfume and perfumery. But
even if you are not working in this industry and are only interested in the topic of
perfume, I would like to inspire you with this book. With the individual topics—in
particular in the first eight chapters—I deliberately do not proceed in chronologi-
cal order, because I want to create more tension and variety when reading. Never-
theless, everything fits into a big whole, and you will get to know all facets of the in-
dustry in a comprehensive and detailed manner.
More than that: I want to make you a beneficiary of a fascinating industry. For
this, this book gives you many practical tips.
My goal is also to introduce you to the latest findings and innovations in such a
way that you can use them for yourself today. I will show you that perfumes can do
much more than just smell good. For example, fragrances are now being developed
into real active perfumes that specifically increase well-being, health, and even joie
de vivre. You can experience this for yourself in this book. One more thing: I want
to make you your own perfumer—without the use of large tools.

z Do you need any prior knowledge for this book?

Definitely not! Even if I report on the latest from research and practice as well as
on the future of perfumery, you only need a little curiosity to discover a world that
creates the most beautiful of all drugs: perfume.

z What do you gain if you just take a sniff of the world of perfumes?
Based on my 30 years of professional experience, I make you an insider of a fasci-
nating industry, including its trends and future prospects. With this book, you will
become a witness of an industry that is currently experiencing a fragrant revolu-
tion, more precisely: the third revolution since the beginnings of perfumery about
6000 years ago. Probably the perfumery is even much older. The International Mu-
seum of Perfumery in the French Grasse dates its beginning back to 7000 BC. on
the basis of objects found in the Near East, which can be regarded as perfume and
cosmetic containers. This would make perfumery over 9000 years old.
The history of perfume and its effects alone are a fascinating topic in them-
selves—and the future prospects are just as exciting. So I can promise you that you
will never be bored while reading this book. Often you will probably also smile. For
example, you will learn which arguments the great philosophers put forward against
the beautiful scents and how they fought against perfumes and perfumery; or which
tricks and methods were used in the past to win the “influencers” of the old days
for his perfume creation.
X Preface

z If you have little time, can you still read parts of the book and get well-informed?
If you have little time and value quick information, this book offers you a “com-
pact course for the perfume insider”.
It provides comprehensive information on perfumes, the industry, current devel-
opments and trends, and gives all those who want to be active in our fascinating
industry—who want to bring their own perfume to the market, for example, and
perhaps position themselves as a brand or perfume influencer—a quick orientation.
For this, I recommend you read the “smelling around” 7 Chaps. 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5, 6,
7, 8 and from the 7 Chap. 9, 12 and 13 the Sects. 9.6, 12.3, 12.4 and 13.3. These
chapters and sections are the training content of my compact course for the per-
fume insider (contact: 7 Online Perfume Academy). In particular, the 7 Chap. 5,
6 and 7 give insider and practical knowledge of how trade is calculated for a new
perfume, and provide many tips on how to develop and successfully position a
perfume in the market.
In the following, I will give you a short overview of the essential contents of in-
dividual chapters that you might not even want to read in order to avoid tension
and anticipation. Certainly, the overview is helpful in finding topics that might in-
terest you.
But before I discuss the contents of individual chapters, allow me to take a small
excursion into the world of perfume. Because the term perfume already demands a
clarification due to the title of the book. It refers to two different areas:
5 I use the term “perfume” on the one hand as a general term for scent. This in-
cludes everything that smells good or is supposed to smell good. In English, the
word “fragrance” is used for “scent”, with which something that smells good is
also associated. This term does not only refer to perfume (English “perfume”),
but also to other sources of scent. The understanding of perfume in the Ger-
man-speaking world allows both associations. So the term “perfume” can refer
to perfume products of the perfume industry as well as to other beautiful scents.
As another differentiation, in addition to the word “fragrance” in English,
the term “scent” is also used, which refers to a more characteristic smell. The
German word “Geruch”—in American English “odor” or in British English
“odour”—is used as a neutral term of the olfactory, but can also be associated
with pleasant and unpleasant smells. In contrast, the term “Gestank” (English
“stink”) clearly refers to something that smells unpleasant. This shows the es-
sential difference between perfume and stink: the former is experienced olfacto-
rily positive, the latter negative. Of course, there are also perfumes that stink for
some people, and scents whose smell is not experienced as good by everyone—
but this would lead too far here.
Furthermore, in English, the terms “aroma” and “perfume” are also distin-
guished, which has also become established in German understanding. Both
terms refer to pleasant smells. While “aroma” refers more to plants, spices and
food, “perfume” is usually associated with scent and flowers.
5 The term “perfume” is also used for a product or in the plural for various per-
fume types of perfumery. The core term “perfume” thus refers to an olfactory
work of art with which one describes the most valuable—so to speak the crown-
ing achievement of what perfumery and perfumers have to offer -. Created as a
product for external use, perfume usually consists of a liquid mixture of various
Preface
XI 
so-called fragrance ingredients, or perfume components. In addition, there are
also so-called “solid perfumes” that can be applied as a cream.
The fragrance ingredients of a perfume are dissolved as fragrance oil in alcohol
and some distilled water. Depending on the concentration of the fragrance in-
gredients or the fragrance oil content, the following different perfume types are
distinguished: “perfume”, “eau de parfum”, “eau de toilette”, and “eau de co-
logne”.
As an olfactory work of art, a perfume should not only serve the enjoyment of
fragrance. Perfume lovers expect a perfume to surprise with a new and innova-
tive fragrance impression at its launch. Furthermore, it must—and the perfume
classics serve as the best example for this—at least subjectively increase the at-
tractiveness and well-being of the wearer. To achieve this, selected and valua-
ble fragrance ingredients—meaning great raw materials—must be used. But cre-
ating a perfume also requires perfume-making skills. So in addition to all artis-
tic attributes, one can expect a good adhesive strength, that is, durability, during
the fragrance from an excellent perfume. Perfumers often further differentiate,
distinguishing between “sillage” and “longevity” of a perfume. Originally from
France, the term sillage describes the lingering scent of the perfume a person
wears, or the scent trail it leaves behind. For example, you enter an empty eleva-
tor and know exactly what the person inside smelled like. The term longevity de-
scribes the durability of a perfume on a fragrance strip or on the skin. It may
even be the case that a perfume that lasts well on the skin is not necessarily as-
sociated with a high sillage impression. The crowning achievement of perfumery
with usually the best adhesive strength is the pure perfume, the so-called “extrait
de parfum”, referred to in English as “perfume extract” or “pure perfume”. The
fragrance ingredient or fragrance oil concentration is between 15 and 30% and
can even exceed 40%.

Sometimes the individual meanings for perfume also overlap. But I will always
make it clear—as with the term perfume—which context I am referring to when us-
ing the word.

Joachim Mensing
Acknowledgments

Writing a book, even when you have the topic clearly in mind, is a journey into the
unknown, at least as far as the time it takes to write is concerned. Without my un-
derstanding family, I would not have been able to make this journey. I would there-
fore like to thank my wife, Charmaine and our children Felicia, Shani, and Elaina
for giving me the time, motivation, and support to write.
You also underestimate that new findings from research can change, rewrite,
re-determine or weigh intermediate goals. Who would have thought, for example,
that people apparently can smell even without parts of the olfactory bulb or that
approaches to perfumery can already be found in the Stone Age. I am therefore
grateful to Hanne-Lore Heilmann and Angela Müller, who helped me to edit the
book and patiently gave me the opportunity to rewrite already finished text pas-
sages and adapt them to the current state of knowledge.
On a journey, an author quickly loses sight of the topics he or she wants to re-
port on, which points are or could be of particular interest to others. I am therefore
very grateful to Regina Spelman, who pointed out to me that I should bring in my
experience as a psychologist to a greater extent.
It takes well-disposed people who support you on your journey and give you
materials and tips on how to do it even better. I would like to thank in this con-
text Kai Brüninghaus, Dr. Andreas Leistikow, and Dr. Alberto Peek, but especially
Jacques Schumacher, who wonderfully enriched the book with his artistic pictures.
My very special thanks go to the participants of my perfume seminars, whose
positive feedback also motivated me to write this book and especially to current
findings from the Neuroparfümerie.
Finally, I would like to thank colleagues from the perfume and cosmetic indus-
try, from trade and from associations, who inspired me in my work with many con-
versations.
 XIII 

About this Book

In the 1. Chapter I share with you a lot of basic knowledge about the topic “scent
and history”. You will learn a lot of fascinating things about the first scent rituals
of people and gain new insights into the beginnings of perfume and perfumery. You
will discover what was known in antiquity about the effects of scents, what impor-
tance scents already had for the quality of life and, above all,
5 which fragrance effects one could already achieve in the Stone Age.

In the first chapter we also discuss the state of the art of current smell research,
in particular what the influence of scents on our consciousness, our emotions and
mood, and thus
5 how scents work in the brain on our psyche;
5 what influence smelling and smell as well as perfumes, fragrances, and aroma-
therapy have on us.

In doing so, we look at first examples from the neuroperfumery, how and where cer-
tain fragrances and essential oils stimulate individual brain regions and their net-
works.
Allow me to point out in this context that I use the terms brain area and brain
region synonymously because, as I will show, it is difficult, if not impossible, to
show a spatially bounded area of the cerebrum—as one associates it rather with the
term brain area—for smelling.
In the 2. Chapter you can read what you need to know about the beautiful
scents from the perspective of practice,
5 how the current developments in perfumes look;
5 what current trends and new expectations there are among fragrance users, such
as the current development from perfume to active perfume.

But we also discuss questionable aspects of the topic of perfume—what one should
know and consider when using fragrance and enjoying fragrance, especially as a
perfume lover.
The 7 Chap. 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 and 8 are primarily aimed at anyone who wants to
quickly get a refreshingly different insight into the world of perfume and the la-
test perfumery. Here you will find more topics that I also discuss in my perfume
insider workshops and training. For example, you will learn
5 who are the people behind the scenes of perfumes today and how the calculation
for a new fragrance works,
5 how to market yourself and your perfume as an “influencer”,
5 which are the favorite ingredients of the perfumery and their current trends,
5 how smelling works,
5 who is the “maître des parfums” in our brain, creating sensory impressions and
connecting scents with our self-image,
5 who or what in the brain, so to speak as a fragrance manager, decides about our
fragrance choice and favorite scents,
XIV About this Book

5 how certain fragrance notes affect our personality, our emotions, mood and
well-being,
5 what the fragrance psychology knows about the use of perfumes and fragrance
families and why people perfume themselves,
5 why smelling is such a unique and fascinating sense that says a lot about our
mental and physical well-being and our health,
5 how and why our sense of smell can do so much good for us in the context of a
scent therapy.

In addition, I will once again go into the exciting history of perfumery since its be-
ginning in pre-Christian times. This includes two revolutions in the past that have
changed the way we smell perfumes. I also discuss the role of women, without
whom perfumery, as we know it, would not have taken place.
Chapters 9 and 10. have a focus on the future of smell and self-scent therapy.
Here I go into the third revolution taking place in perfumery, which will completely
change the entire industry. The latest discoveries from scent and brain research as
well as from neuroperfumery, a very young science, are at the center. You will learn:
5 what perfumes can do today—in addition to smelling good,
5 how the future of perfume looks,
5 which brain regions, i.e. networks, can be particularly well stimulated and with
which perfumes,
5 how the latest findings from neuroperfumery and brain research can be used in
sales and scent consulting.

In addition, I present the latest findings from scent psychology and therapy and ex-
plain how perfumes can lead to more enjoyment of life.
Everything is described very application-oriented and understandable, with
many suggestions for the practice of perfumery and the experience of perfumes. Es-
pecially in the 10. chapter I ask you to be creative and to create your own therapeu-
tic perfume. My goal is that you experience the power of neuroperfumes, that is, of
scents that are specifically designed to reprogram desired experience. With them, in-
ner strength, joy and well-being can be increased as part of a fragrance-supported
therapy.
In the 11. chapter I present to you current findings from brain research, neuro-
and sales psychology for fragrance consulting, and in the 12. chapter you can dis-
cover your fragrance preferences and your associated desired experiences with the
help of a neuropsychological self-test. I also give you many practical tips on how to
make fragrance consulting even more fascinating in the stationary perfumery, be-
cause many trend researchers would sign the following: The new customer—and
that's all of us—doesn't buy a product or a service anymore, but first and foremost
a positive experience.
That's why I'm introducing you to a new, exciting, but also unexpected perfum-
ery: the Experience Perfumery. So don't be surprised if you read about World Turtle
Day or Scented Dancing in this context. Both serve the enjoyment of perfume and
the increase of fragrance and self-experience, but also of health and health preven-
tion.
Finally, in the 13, 14, and 15 chapter a number of well-kept insider information
of the perfume industry, trade and marketing with you. You will learn about trends,
About this Book
XV 
innovations and developments with perfumers, how the perfume trade and its cus-
tomers change, and who wins the race for the stationary perfumery of tomorrow.
But I also show which strategic opportunities the stationary perfumery offer to ben-
efit from a changing market with new consumer needs. I am also following these
questions:
5 How does the German perfume market differ from other markets?
5 What are the perfume trends of the next years?
5 Are there trends in fragrances that are similar to fashion trends globally?
5 Are markets increasingly determined by national preferences?

In this context, I show that Germany is not in the middle of Europe on the map of
fragrance preferences and market mentality, but a completely different country.
The last chapter of the book is a postscript and dedicated to the perfumers. I
will investigate how and where the modern perfumer emerged, how perfumers can
become their own luxury brand, and what opportunities, (today), do perfumers
have.
 XVII

Contents

1 The Research of the Fragrance Effect. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

1.1 History of the Fragrance Effect. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
1.1.1 Surprising Findings of Archaeology 77,000 Years Ago. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
1.1.2 On the Difference between Perfume and Smell Application. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
1.1.3 First Mentions of the Use and Effect of Fragrance in Ancient Times and Antiquity. . . . . 6
1.1.4 The Scent of the Blue Lotus Or: The Divine Perfume from the Primeval Waters. . . . . . . . 10
1.1.5 The Art of Smoking—On the Meditative and Artistic Effect of Scent. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
1.1.6 Healing Fragrance Magic—From Medical and Physiotherapeutic Fragrance
Applications to Divination and Spiritual Seances . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
1.2 Scent Effect in Modern Times. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
1.2.1 Beginning of the Research of the Scent Effect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
1.2.2 Neuroparfümerie Causes a Breakthrough in Fragrance Effect Research. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
1.2.3 A First Look at the Effect of Scents on Specific Regions of the Brain. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
1.2.4 A First Look at the Future of Fragrance. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
1.2.5 Smelling Also Works the Other Way Around—The Fragrance Manager in the
Brain. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
1.2.6 Research Areas of Scent Psychology . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
1.2.7 Smelling, the Last Sign of Consciousness. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
1.2.8 The Brain Can Create Its Own Smell. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
1.2.9 How Fragrances Unconsciously Influence Our Behavior—Two Examples. . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
1.2.10 Aromatherapy—How Essential Oils Work. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
Summary . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
References. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32

2 Perfumes in Change. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35
2.1 Characteristics of Perfumes Today. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36
2.2 Types and Use of Perfumes—Areas of Interest of Perfume Lovers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
2.3 The Trend in the Perfume Industry Towards Nature. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44
2.4 Personal Requirements for Perfumes. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45
2.5 Perfume in Conflict: Prohibited and Unwanted Effects. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46
2.6 Consumers Want More than Just Smelling Good—From Perfume to
Active Perfume . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48
2.7 The Difference between Aromatherapy and Scent Therapy. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49
Summary. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50
References. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50

3 Psychology of Perfume Choice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53

3.1 Plea for the Sense of Smell: We Smell More than We Thought. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
3.2 Scent Memory: Smelling Relativizes Space and Time . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56
3.3 Artificial Olfactory Intelligence: The Future Has Already Begun. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57
3.4 Increasing the Enjoyment of Fragrance: Merging of the Senses. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58
3.5 Perfume Choice: Findings from Marketing and Neuromarketing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60
3.6 How to Smell: About Molecular Doormen and Ushers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67
3.7 The Maître Des Parfums in the Brain or the Struggle for the Scent in the Head. . . . . . 72
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