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NGT Food 20220303

The Spring 2022 issue of National Geographic Traveller Food explores global culinary experiences, focusing on spices and their cultural significance. It features articles on diverse cuisines, including a deep dive into gumbo and the rise of paneer in the UK. The magazine also highlights unique dining experiences, such as underwater restaurants in the Maldives.

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0% found this document useful (0 votes)

15 views132 pages

NGT Food 20220303

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SOUTHERN CLASSIC

GETTING TO GRIPS
WITH GUMBO

£ 4 . 8 0 • S PRI N G 2 02 2

AROUND THE WORLD IN

SEVEN SPICES
SAFFRON • PAPRIKA • ALL SPICE • CINNAMON
G R E E N C A R D A M O M • S I C H U A N P E P P E R S • VA N I L L A

N ATI O N A LG EO G R A PH I C .CO.U K /FO O D -TR AV E L

UNDE RWATER DINING
Descend 6 meters below the surface for an exotic dining experience of a
lifetime. Surrounded by the turquoise lagoon and the breath-taking
Maldivian underwater world, indulge in masterfully crafted seafood dishes
at M6m Underwater Restaurant.

ozenlife-maadhoo.com Part of THE OZEN COLLECTION @ozenlife-maadhoo

BE BOLD.
BE ALPHA.

/.\LPHAREIGN

BEARD ELIXIR

,\: 1�1 "11UM BLEND OF

:.;F/ITAl.lSINGOILS
'NI HA SUBTLE,
INEAROMA

40ML

/J... L P 1-1 /J... RE I G N

A PREMIUM LINE FOR MEN.

WWW.ALPHAREIGN.CO.UK
CONTENTS
ISSUE 15, SPRING 2022

Mains
44
S PI C E S
From paprika in Budapest to
Sichuan peppers in China, we
journey around the world with
seven spices

58
AU STRI A
Hearty meals and heartfelt
hospitality high up in the
mountain huts of the Tyrol

68
D ECO N STRU C T
The big flavours and global
influences behind Louisiana’s
state dish: gumbo

76
E STO N I A
Breaking bread in Tallinn with
a pair of celebrated bakers
plus their family and friends

86
DURBAN
IMAGE: TEAGAN CUNNIFFE

Exploring the spicy, distinct cuisine

of this coastal South African city
CONTENTS
ISSUE 15, SPRING 2022

38
Moran 31 | RECIPE JOURNAL Sandwiches
38 | THE PIONEER Melbourne-based
Nornie Bero

114

98 106
On the cover Features Regulars Recipes
IMAGES: ARMELLE HABIB; BEN WELLER; ALAMY

6 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO.U K / F O O D -T R AV EL
DARE DARE DARE
DARE
DARE DARE DARE
TO
DARE DARE DARE
DARE DARE DARE
CHASE
DARE DARE DARE
TASTE
DARE DARE DARE
DARE DARE DARE
DARE DARE DARE
DARE
DARE
DARE DARE
DARETODARESUSTAINABLE.
DARE
CREAMY.

DARE DARE DARE

POTATO M!LK.

DARE DARE DARE

DARE DARE DARE
dugdrinks.com
Picture Editor: Olly Puglisi
Editorial Admin Assistant:
Tabitha Grainge
Production Manager:
CONTRIBUTORS
Editorial Director: Maria Pieri Daniel Gregory
Editor: Glen Mutel Production Controller:
Deputy Editor: Nicola Trup Joe Mendonca
Assistant Editor: Commercial Director:
Farida Zeynalova Matthew Midworth
Digital Editor: Josephine Price Head of Sales: Phil Castle
Deputy Digital Editor: Head of Campaigns:
Nora Wallaya William Allen
Contributing Editors: Campaigns Team:
Pat Riddell, Connor McGovern Jamie Barnish, James Bendien,
Amelia Duggan, Sarah Barrell Bob Jalaf, Kevin Killen, Jamie
Content Editor: Marks, Gabriela Milkova, Mark
Charlotte Wigram-Evans Salmon, Jonathan Carrillo Saez,
Assistant Content Editor: Oscar Williams
Angela Locatelli Head of National Geographic
Project Editors: Zane Henry, Traveller — The Collection:
Jo Fletcher-Cross, Annie Lewis Danny Pegg
Mattie Lacey-Davidson
Project Assistant: Sacha Scoging
Head of Sub Editors:
Olivia McLearon (acting),
Hannah Doherty (maternity leave)
Sub Editors: Chris Horton,
Nick Mee, Lisa Morgan, Chief Executive: Sara Roahen
Ben Murray, Karen Yates Anthony Leyens I’ve been a student of
Operations Manager: Managing Director:
Seamus McDermott Matthew Jackson gumbo for more than two
Digital Marketing Manager: Sales Director: Alex Vignali
decades, and even wrote a
Prabbie Kaur Head of Commercial Strategy:
Head of Events: Sabera Sattar Chris Debbinney-Wright Ranette Prime book on the subject. Many
Marketing Manager — Events: APL Business Development
Angelique Mannan Team: Adam Fox, It was a joy speaking to of the chefs mentioned in
Art Director: Becky Redman Cynthia Lawrence chef Nornie Bero. We both my piece, including Frank
Art Editors: Office Manager: Hayley Rabin
Lauren Atkinson-Smith, Head of Finance: Ryan McShaw come from rich Indigenous Brigtsen, Slade Rushing
Lauren Gamp Credit Manager: Craig Chappell cultures, intrinsically and Leah Chase, have
Senior Designers: Liz Owens, Accounts Manager:
Dean Reynolds, Kelly McKenna Siobhan Grover connected to food, music been excellent teachers
(maternity leave) Accounts Assistants:
Designer: Rosie Klein
and the coming together of — I’ve pored over their
Ramona McShaw, Rekin Patel
families and community. cookbooks, eaten their
National Geographic Traveller Food is published by APL Media She’s leading the way in gumbos and peppered
Limited, Unit 310, Highgate Studios, 53-79 Highgate Road, London
NW5 1TL nationalgeographic.co.uk/food-travel putting native ingredients them with questions.
Editorial T: 020 7253 9906. [email protected] front and centre of D E C O N S T R U C T, P 6 8
Sales/Admin T: 020 7253 9909. F: 020 7253 9907.
[email protected] Australian food culture
Subscriptions T: 01293 312 166. — I made her wattleseed
[email protected]
pavlova myself, and it’s
National Geographic Traveller Food is published by APL Media Ltd under license
from National Geographic Partners, LLC. For more information contact natgeo. delicious. P I O N E E R , P 3 8
com/info. Their entire contents are protected by copyright 2022 and all rights are
reserved. Reproduction without prior permission is forbidden. Every care is taken in
compiling the contents of the magazine, but the publishers assume no responsibility
in the effect arising therefrom. Readers are advised to seek professional advice
before acting on any information which is contained in the magazine. Neither APL
Media Ltd or National Geographic Traveller Food magazine accept any liability for
views expressed, pictures used or claims made by advertisers.

National Geographic Partners International Publishing

Interim Editor-in-Chief, Senior Vice President:

NG Media: David Brindley Yulia P. Boyle
General Manager, NG Media: Senior Director:
David Miller Ariel Deiaco-Lohr
Senior Manager: Rossana Stella
International Editions
Headquarters
Editorial Director: Amy Kolczak Tom Burson
Deputy Editorial Director: 1145 17th St. NW, Washington,
Darren Smith DC 20036-4688, USA Being a food-motivated
Editor: Leigh Mitnick individual, it took little
Translation Manager: Beata Nas National Geographic Partners
returns 27% of its proceeds convincing to get me to
Editors: CHINA Sophie Huang;
FRANCE Gabriel Joseph-
to the nonprofit National
Geographic Society to fund
Alicia Miller hike eight hours into the
Dezaize; GERMANY Werner work in the areas of science, The Bahamas is famous Austrian Alps for lunch.
Siefer; INDIA Lakshmi Sankaran; exploration, conservation and
ITALY Marco Cattaneo; LATIN education. for its beautiful beaches, What I didn’t fully realise
AMERICA Claudia Muzzi; but what they don’t tell was the culinary bounty
NETHERLANDS Robbert
Vermue; POLAND Agnieszka you is the food is fantastic, I’d find there. The meats
Franus; ROMANIA Catalin Gruia; too. From fresh fish, conch and cheeses are renowned,
RUSSIA Ivan Vasin; SOUTH
KOREA Bo-yeon Lim; SPAIN and crab to seriously but practically everything
Josan Ruiz; TURKEY Nesibe Bat sublime (and strong) I walked past or stepped
Copyright © 2022 National Geographic Partners, LLC. All Rights rum cocktails, you’ll find on — from grasses to tiny
Reserved. National Geographic Traveller and the Yellow Border delicious things on every flowers — can be used to
Design are registered trademarks of National Geographic Society
and used under license. Printed in the UK. island. And the best part create wonderful dishes.
is that some of the tastiest AU S T R I A , P 5 8
food is the cheapest.
BAHAMAS, P 106

8 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO.U K / F O O D -T R AV EL
Editor’s letter
ISSUE 15, SPRING 2022

If you consider yourself to be passionate about food, then there’s a good chance
you’re also fascinated by spices. The two things tend to go hand in hand — the
more thought you put into what you eat, the more you start to appreciate the
transformative power of certain seeds, fruits, roots and barks.
But as well as elevating your cooking, an appreciation of spices will also give
you a better understanding of how different cuisines work. It’s often such a key
point of distinction from region to region — after all, so many of us have grown up
eating, say, chicken, but whether you prefer yours cooked with saffron, turmeric,
lemongrass or cumin can say something about either where you were raised, or
simply which cuisines you’ve gravitated to.
Spices have always connected the world. Whereas once they were one of the
major driving forces behind vast trade routes, today they’re able to transport us to
the kitchens of faraway places. In this spirit, our cover story takes us around the
world via seven spices — from delicate, temperamental vanilla pods grown on the
island nation of São Tomé & Príncipe to the brick-red soups and stews infused with
paprika in the restaurants of Budapest. So, dive in — and while you plot your next
culinary adventure, perhaps it’s time to consider a bigger spice rack, too.

Glen Mutel, editor

N AT G E O T R AV E L U K

TO S U B S C R I B E , V I S I T: N ATG E OT R AV E L L E R . I M B M S U B S C R I P T I O N S .C O M/ N G T F - P R I N T

C OV I D -1 9 : The ongoing pandemic continues to affect travel. Please note, prices and travel advice are subject to change. Contact
your travel provider for up-to-date information. For the latest news on safe travel and border restrictions, visit gov.uk/fcdo

W H AT ’ S O N LI N E AT N ATI O N A LG E O G R A PH I C .C O.U K /FO O D -TR AV E L

Plant-based perfection Tasty trends Reggie’s favourites

From Berlin’s Lucky Leek to Ark The food trends to watch out for in Writer-director Reggie Yates
IMAGE: TONI KOSTIAN

in Copenhagen, check out the 2022, including a new wave of vegan discusses his Ghanaian heritage,
restaurants at the forefront of chocolates and yakitori restaurants being pescatarian, his love of fish
Europe’s vegan fine-dining scene. plus the rise of koji, calvados and kelp. and chips and his mum’s jollof rice.

N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO.U K / F O O D -T R AV EL 11
S TA RT E R S

IMAGE: STOCKFOOD

12 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO.U K / F O O D -T R AV EL
S TA RT E R S

TRY IT N OW

Paneer
A S TAPLE O F VEG E TARIAN C U I S I N E AC RO S S I N D IA ,
TH I S C H EE S E I S GAI N I N G P O PU L ARIT Y I N TH E U K A S
A VER SATI LE ME AT ALTERNATIVE

From seitan and spelt to tofu and tempeh, throughout India and South Asia for centuries.
alternative protein sources have tended to Now the UK seems to be finally catching up,
dominate trend lists in recent years, as more with several supermarkets reporting huge
people look to reduce their meat consumption. growth in paneer sales in recent months;
Paneer — an Indian set cottage cheese made Sainsbury’s says it’s experienced a 60% rise
from cow’s or buffalo’s milk — is the latest over the past two years, while Waitrose has
veggie-friendly ingredient to capture the seen searches for its online paneer kofta curry
imagination, with sales on the rise and new recipe leap 1,130% in the past six months.
openings placing it at the heart of their menus. The cheese continues to be popular with
Adept at absorbing flavours, paneer also top chefs. Atul Kochhar, for instance, features
has a high melting point, which means several paneer dishes on the menus of his
— unlike many other cheeses — it maintains two recent London openings, Mathura and
its shape during cooking. These qualities, Masalchi. Meanwhile, at recently opened BiBi
plus the fact it’s quick and easy to make, have (also in the capital) Chet Sharma serves buffalo
made it a major element in vegetarian cuisine milk paneer with a fenugreek kebab masala.

N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO.U K / F O O D -T R AV EL 13
S TA RT E R S

W H AT T H E Y ’ R E E AT I N G I N

PARI S
Home to some of Paris’s most exciting
restaurants, the 11th arrondissement
packs some real culinary surprises
Bamako-style fried chicken

1 2 3 4 5
SESA ME AND

FRENCH TACOS
ST YLE FRIED

O ’ TAC O S PA R I S PA R M E N T I E R
B O U L A N G E R I E U TO P I E

VIN S ET
LIME TART

GL ACES
B M K F O L I E - B A M A KO

MOLOKHIA
BA M AKO -

L E F O L D E RO L
CHICKEN

BL ACK
DI-NAPOLI

Pairing wine and ice

cream is far from a
The second of BMK’s The vogue for Japanese- French convention,
two Paris restaurants The queue from late style patisserie means the but that’s exactly what
serves up a smorgasbord morning to early morning odd dollop of miso and If the panini, kebab and Jessica Yang and Robert
of pan-African cuisine, outside Di-Napoli attests dash of yuzu is now part burrito were to have a Compagnon — the
with Bamako-style fried to the quality of its of any self-respecting love child, French tacos couple behind the city’s
chicken the must-try Tunisian cuisine. Malawi Parisian baker’s would be the result. celebrated Japanese
dish. Organic chicken (stuffed flatbreads) and repertoire. Boulangerie Originating in the North binchotan joint Le
breasts are marinated in fricassé (savoury donuts) Utopie’s black sesame African communities Rigamarole — are
a fiery chilli and ginger are delicious, but nothing and lime tart is surely of the banlieues (Paris’s serving up at the capital’s
paste for 24 hours, coated beats the molokhia, a the trend’s ultimate outlying districts), first glacier-caviste.
in plantain flour, fried slow-cooked veal stew expression. A dome of French tacos — a grilled Since Le Folderol opened
until golden and then given a rich flavour and black sesame mousse is tortilla wrap containing in December 2020, it’s
served sliced, sprinkled jade-green hue by the draped in a black sesame meat, chips, cheese and drawn the crowds with
with smoky paprika. finely ground leaves of sauce, atop a shortbread sauce — has become the creations such as Tuscan
IMAGE: QUENTIN DRESSE

Wash it down with bissap, the jute mallow plant. base, itself packed with fast food du jour in Paris. olive oil, Mexican vanilla
a refreshing, ruby-red Hunks of baguette soak black sesame seeds. It’s While it’s sold on almost and fig-hibiscus sorbet
drink made with hibiscus up the sauce and the all topped with lime every street corner, the alongside around 500
flowers that’s ubiquitous homemade citronnade is segments and strands O’Tacos chain’s version wines from the on-site
across West Africa. a zesty palate-cleanser. of confit lime rind. takes some beating. cave. Well worth raising a
bmkparis.com 17 Boulevard de Belleville boulangerieutopie.com o-tacos.com glace to. folderol.com

N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO.U K / F O O D -T R AV EL 15
S TA RT E R S

SPOTLIGHT

Bookshop cafes
FOR COFFEE-LOVING BIBLIOPHILES, BOOKSHOP CAFES ARE A DREAM
COMBINATION — SOMEWHERE TO CURL UP WITH AN ENGROSSING NOVEL,
A L ATTE AND A PIECE OF CAKE. HERE ARE FIVE OF THE UK’S BEST

1 The London Review Bookshop, London

Once the stomping ground of the Bloomsbury Set,
the Bloomsbury neighbourhood is today home to one
of the capital’s most beloved bookstores. Here, you
can browse more than 20,000 titles, ranging from
contemporary fiction to current affairs. Then, get stuck
into your purchase — and maybe a slice of blackcurrant
hibiscus cake — at the adjoining tearoom, where all
bakes are lovingly handmade by owner Terry Glover.
londonreviewbookshop.co.uk

2 The Aberfeldy Watermill, Aberfeldy

Housed in a Grade A-listed former oatmeal mill deep
in the Scottish Highlands, the three-storey Aberfeldy
Watermill is a bookstore, design shop, art gallery and
cafe rolled into one. You’ll find a wide range of titles, best
savoured at the charming cafe, which serves up light
bites, including comforting soups, rustic sandwiches and
homemade cakes. aberfeldywatermill.com

3 The Hours Cafe & Bookshop, Brecon

It’s impossible to miss this three-storey Tudor
building on one of the oldest streets in Brecon, thanks
to its wonderfully off-kilter exterior. Step inside to find
a tightly curated selection of books — fiction, poetry,
art, crime and more — as well as an award-winning cafe
that celebrates local produce. Munch on a Welsh ham
and chutney sandwich or opt for a thirst-quenching G&T
made using Dà Mhìle gin. thehoursbrecon.co.uk

4 White Rose Book Cafe, Thirsk

This family-run bookstore in the North Yorkshire
market town of Thirsk is a great spot for a light lunch,
with its large cafe and garden terrace. On offer are soups,
sandwiches and pastries made with local and seasonal
produce; the White Rose Savoury Tea — a toasted
cheese scone accompanied by wensleydale cheese,
chutney and a pot of Yorkshire tea — is a must-try.
whiterosebooks.co.uk
WORDS: DELLE CHAN. IMAGE: LONDON REVIEW BOOKSHOP

5 Scarthin Books, Cromford

Tucked away in the village of Cromford, in Derbyshire,
this decades-old institution has all manner of books
— from fresh-off-the-press novels to dusty antiquarian
tomes — crammed onto its many shelves. While away a
couple of hours in its cosy reading room or grab a bite at its
old-school cafe, which offers several vegan and gluten-
free options. Try the savoury homity pie, a firm favourite
among loyal customers. scarthinbooks.com

From top: The London Review Cake Shop; soup and

sandwiches at The Aberfeldy Watermill; Scarthin Books

16 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO.U K / F O O D -T R AV EL
Photo: Wil Lee-Wright / Oi! Trøndersk Mat og Drikke

Heidi Bjerkan, Credo. (photo: Geir Mogen) Food Art at Credo. (photo: Geir Mogen)

Taste the north

In the middle of Norway and Sweden, you will find world-class ingredients – in the sea,
forest and fields. It’s a paradise for the chefs who use these ingredients to create unique
culinary experiences. One such chef is Heidi Bjerkan at the Michelin-starred restaurant
Credo in Trondheim. A meal at Credo is a journey through the farms, sea and forest.
For her dedication, Heidi was awarded the Michelin Guide’s very first award for sustainability.

In Storlien in Sweden, Lena Flaten has built up the restaurant Flammans Skafferi, which is
at the forefront when it comes to food that exudes love for nature, sustainable agriculture,
food craftsmanship and growers. The passion for food and nature is also reflected in the
restaurant’s ambition for sustainable food craftmanship.

Lena Flaten, Flamman. (photo: Tina Stafrén)

Photo: Wil Lee-Wright / Oi! Trøndersk Mat og Drikke

Trondheim-Trøndelag is the European Region of Gastronomy in 2022. The culinary experiences

in Norway and Sweden are easily accessible via the airports in Trondheim and Östersund.

world’s milk production

devoted solely to making
butter, with 20 litres
of whole milk required
to produce just

1500 BC
1 kilogram

20.8
TH E REC O RD TI M E , I N S EC O N D S ,
2.7kg The date that ghee, a form of clarified
IT TO O K AU STR A LIA N S I M A R J IT butter considered sacred by Hindus, was
C H H A B R A TO B U T TE R 1 0 S LI C E S mentioned in the Rig Veda, an ancient
O F B RE A D, I N M AY 2 0 1 8 Indian collection of Vedic Sanskrit hymns

136 1869
TH E AV E R AG E A M O U NT O F
IMAGES: GETTY; ALAMY

The age, in years, of Anchor, the UK’s B U T TE R CO N S U M E D PE R The year margarine was invented by
oldest butter brand, founded in PE R S O N I N TH E U K I N 2 0 17. French chemist Hippolyte Mège-Mouriès,
New Zealand in 1886 by Cornish TH I S I S W E LL B E LOW TH E for a contest launched by Napoleon III, who
dairyman Henry Reynolds E U AV E R AG E O F 3 . 8 KG lamented France’s inadequate butter supplies

S O U RC E S : TA S T E O F F R A N C E ; G U I N N E S S WO R L D R E C O R D S ; B R I TA N N I C A ; B U T T E R T H RO U G H T H E AG E S ; AG RO P O L I S M U S E U M ; S TAT I S TA ; T H E I R I S H T I M E S

18 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO.U K / F O O D -T R AV EL
S TA RT E R S

MAKE PERFECT

TURKI SH KOF TE
Patience and lengthy kneading are the key to the texture of
these succulent lamb meatballs. Words: Fatih Tutak

KNEADING F E R M E N TAT I O N GRILLING

Preparing Turkish kofte takes Never cook the mix straight after The original Turkish way is to
strength and patience, as it’s best you’ve made it. When preparing grill the kofte over charcoal.
to mix all the ingredients by hand. kofte ‘dough’, it needs to be Alternatively, you can deep fry
Kneading the meat for around 30 stored for at least 48 hours in the them or cook them in a pan or
minutes will improve the texture fridge — this gives the mixture a wood-fired oven. If using a
and taste. The mixture (lamb the chance to ferment. This charcoal grill, you can add wood
meat, lamb fat, breadcrumbs, salt, fermentation and resting of the chips to give them another smoky
pepper and baking soda) should dough ensures the creation of dimension, but we tend to keep
end up feeling like dough. unique umami flavours. it natural.

SHAPING E AT I N G SIDES
The kofte can be round, long, There are many ways to eat kofte. Traditionally, the side dish to
square — it’s up to you. I usually You can have them in a sandwich serve with kofte is piyaz, a haricot
make them round or elliptic. with pide, tomato, sliced onion bean salad. We soak the beans
Each kofte should weigh about and salad. They’re delicious overnight, boil them, then serve
40-60g and be shaped by hand. wrapped in lavash, a wood-fired them with tomato, onions and
Once you’ve shaped them, it’s Turkish bread. I like to serve them olive oil. Alternatively, you could
traditional to stitch them onto with homemade fries, rice pilaf, also serve the kofte on a plate
a metal skewer before putting tomatoes, green peppers and with yoghurt and a sauce made
them on the charcoal grill. some sliced onion with sumac. from tomato paste.

M AKE ME
Visit
nationalgeographic.
co.uk/food-travel

Fatih Tutak is chef and owner of Istanbul restaurant Turk Fatih Tutak. turkft.com

N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO.U K / F O O D -T R AV EL 19
S TA RT E R S

THE DRINK

Sour style
ARTI SANAL AND U NPREDIC TAB LE, L A MB IC B EER IN SPIRES PA SSION S TH RE E TO TRY
B E YOND ITS B ELGIAN HOME. WORDS: THE THINKING DRINKERS

Oud Beersel Oude

What’s so special about it? expression of the brewing art; an oak-aged, ancient, Kriek, 5%
The oldest beer style in the world and the closest organic ale shaped by the fickle whimsies of Sharp, tart and ruby red
beer truly gets to terroir, lambic is unique to a weather, wild yeast, wood and Belgian bacteria. with an acidic, almond
region of Belgium called Pajottenland. Unlike edge, it’s best sipped
conventional brewers, who use a laboratory-derived Doesn’t sound like I could drink a pint of it. from a champagne flute.
yeast that’s easy to control, lambic producers You don’t need to. Serve it up in a delicate flute. The oudbeersel.com
allow wild, native airborne yeast to float through vast majority of lambics are blended into gueuze,
the rafters and frolic freely — fermenting the beer an effervescent fusion of young (aged for between 3 Fonteinen
with very little human intervention at all. After six and 12 months) and old lambic (aged for up to Oude Geuze
this ancient, ambient, airborne inoculation, the three years), conventionally corked and caged in A benchmark golden
beer rests in enormous oak barrels, where myriad champagne bottles. As with cognac and champagne gueuze. Tart on the tongue,
microorganisms come out of the wood and funk it houses, blenders aim to achieve a house style of mellowed with hints of
up even further. No two casks taste the same. gueuze in a never-ending pursuit of perfection. grapefruit and green apple.
3fonteinen.be/en
Sounds rather artisanal. So, where do I start?
Some would say too artisanal. The uninitiated Kriek (cherry) and framboise (raspberry) are friendly Girardin Gueuze
might find lambics daunting and recoil at their first steps. At their most authentic, these fruity Black Label 1882
funky, farmyardy flavours. The acidic sourness lambics are oak-aged and use huge amounts of fresh A grapefruit-gilded blend
is more akin to farmhouse cider or fino sherry. fruit. In the barrels, the natural yeast ferments of small-batch, one- and
Lambic-lovers, however, regard it as the most the sugary flesh and devours the stones within two-year-old lambics.
quixotic, eccentrically earthy and complex — bringing out a dry bitterness and nutty notes. girardin1882.be

W H E R E TO D R I N K IT

Moeder Lambic, Brussels Beer Merchants Tap, Beer Gonzo, Coventry

IMAGES: ALAMY; STOCKFOOD

Modern and minimalist with a Hackney, London A stripped-back bar and taproom
phenomenal list of lambics and There’s huge diversity on offer with a lengthy list of classic and
gueuze, Moeder (pictured) is here, with loads of hard-to-get- rare lambic and lambic-style
rated by many as the best beer bar hold-of lambics, plus its own beers from Belgium and beyond.
in Brussels. moederlambic.com blendery. beermerchantstap.com beergonzo.co.uk/taproom

20 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO.U K / F O O D -T R AV EL
Get 30% off a Pikt build-your-own box of organic fruit
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S TA RT E R S

MEET THE MAKERS

SWEET SPOT
Battling the elements in Ontario, Sue-Ann Staff can sometimes spend
24 hours pressing frozen grapes to produce her award-winning icewine

Frozen grapes on
snow-covered vines

Left: Sue-Ann
tends her crop

Along a winding country road in the Ontario icewine. As a result, harvests often take place
village of Jordan, in a clapboard farmhouse in darkness, between 4am and 6am. ONTARIO S PEC IAL S
that’s been in her family for five generations, But harvesting is only the start of the
award-winning winemaker Sue-Ann Staff is process. Once the grapes are collected, they B U T T E R TA RT S
pouring samples. “We think we have the oldest should immediately be crushed before they Within a flaky pastry case,
continually planted vineyard in Canada,” thaw — it’s a race against the weather. Fuelled these tarts have a sticky,
she says. Before Canada was even a unified by hot coffee, Sue-Ann might find herself wobbly centre of brown
country, Sue-Ann’s ancestors were farming the pressing the sticky, icy grapes for 24 hours sugar, butter and corn syrup.
surrounding fields and — for the past 124 years non-stop before she can rest. The resulting Variations might also feature
— growing grapes. But she’s the first of the liquid is so sweet that fermentation provides raisins, pecans or walnuts.
Staffs to make wine itself, including icewine, its own challenges. Yeasts are easily killed off
one of the Niagara region’s specialities, at by the natural sugar, so the process can be S W E E TC O R N
what’s now the Sue-Ann Staff Estate Winery. painstakingly slow. Some of Sue-Ann’s vintages Sold in their husks from
Rather than being harvested in autumn, have taken as long as nine months to ferment; roadside farm shops during
grapes for icewine are left on the vine until by comparison, most dry wines take just a August and September,
winter to freeze. When pressed, their water couple of weeks. But when the icewine is finally Ontario’s corn cobs have
content (now ice) is discarded and the finished, the result is a luscious, peachy pour. sweet, plump, yellow kernels.
remaining sugars are vinified to produce Part of the reward for Sue-Ann is knowing
sweet wine. The extreme conditions and tiny she’s helping to keep the tradition of an iconic P E A M E A L B AC O N
IMAGES: BENTLEY MILLER; ALAMY

yields — about 10% of what would be expected Canadian product alive. “It’s something This unsmoked, wet-cured back
from an autumn harvest — make it one of the few wine regions in the world can do,” she bacon gets its characteristic
hardest wines to produce. says. “We have the luxury of these unique golden crust from the cornmeal
“It’s winemaking as an extreme sport,” conditions in Niagara — warm enough in in which it’s rolled. Try it in a
laughs Sue-Ann. Her vidal grapes, a variety summer, cold enough in winter — to make fluffy roll at Carousel Bakery at
chosen for its voluminous, thick-skinned icewine. We need to champion it.” Sue-Anne’s Toronto’s St Lawrence Market.
berries, must be picked, according to Canadian icewine can be bought from the estate’s tasting
regulations, at -8C or colder to qualify as room. sue-annstaff.com Alicia Miller

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F I V E WAY S W I T H

Artichoke
PI C KLED, R AW O R FRI ED, TH I S D ELI C I O U S VEG E TAB LE I S
S U PRI S N G LY VER SATI LE. WO RD S: FI LI PP O L A GAT T U TA 1 Fried
Deep-fry a prepared
artichoke for five mins in
oil at 120C. Once cooled,
First cultivated in Naples in the 15th century, leaves at the centre), and once the artichoke is open it like a flower.
artichokes are a true Italian staple. They’re prepped, it needs to be placed in lemon water Then fry for another
particularly popular in Rome, where they’re to prevent discolouration. If this all seems too four mins at 180C, so the
simply deep-fried and served as a starter in challenging, try to find smaller artichokes as leaves are crunchy.
osterias. And, as a Venetian, they’ve always they usually don’t have the choke inside.
been a key ingredient for me, too.
Preparing them is one of the most technical
and intimidating parts of cooking them.
My favourite variety is the romanesco, the
most commonly used in Italian recipes. It’s
not only the biggest, but also the most tender
2 Tapenade
The best artichoke
for this is the mammola,
During my internship years, the chef would once cooked. One of the best ways of preparing which has the biggest
bring me about 14kg a day, which was a it is by lightly cooking it, face-down, in wine, heart. Using the
challenge; I used — and still use — a small, herbs, oil and whole garlic cloves. Cooked this steamed heart, blend
sharp paring knife to peel the stem and take way, the vegetable can be eaten hot or cold, it with a little of the
off the outer leaves until only the tender simply with aioli or garlic butter. It makes a steaming liquid and
leaves remained. wonderful starter to share, as everyone comes serve with focaccia
To test you’ve done this correctly, once the together to peel the leaves off. Filippo La or grissini.
first set of leaves has been removed, bite the Gattuta is executive chef at Big Mamma Group,
next leaf — if it’s tender, you’ve peeled enough.
The most important thing is to remove the
‘barba’ (the ‘choke’ in English, the immature
which operates Ave Mario, Circolo Popolare
and Gloria Trattoria in London, plus others
elsewhere in Europe.
3 Raw
Prepare the
artichoke and toss
in lemon water. Slice
very finely then dress
with herbs and olive
oil. Use the smallest
artichoke possible so
you don’t need to strip
many leaves.

4 Tea
For this, use
the leaves and stem.
Dehydrate in the oven
then infuse in hot water.
This is traditional for
grandmothers to offer
after a big lunch as it’s
said to aid digestion.

5 Pickled
Lightly cook the
artichoke in wine and
herbs, then place in
sterilised jars. Top with
hot vinegar infused with
peppercorns and bay
and leave for a day or
two to pickle.
IMAGE: GETTY

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WINE

FEELING C HILE
A wide variety of grapes thrive in Chile, and while the wines they produce may
sound familiar, they have a character all of their own. Words: Fiona Beckett

In some ways, Chilean wine is almost too good Limari and Leyda — are sought out for their rieslings and gewürztraminers, plus some
value. The problem — if you can call it that freshness, as are those in the south. delicious sémillons.
— is the basic wines are so drinkable that Given that the vineyards can be up to 2,500 Some producers are dabbling with orange
many people don’t get round to exploring the miles apart, there’s significant variety in the wine, especially in the up-and-coming region
more interesting, more expensive bottles. wines produced. All the well-known grape of the Itata Valley, where you’ll also find
Wine has been made here since the 1550s, varieties thrive but emerge with a particularly modern incarnations of pais and cinsault.
when the Spanish introduced pais — used, Chilean character. Sauvignon blanc produced Meanwhile, in the Maule Valley there’s some
at the time, as a communion wine. But here has a grapefruity citrus flavour, rather extraordinary old vine carignan producing
it wasn’t until the 19th century that the than the gooseberry and passionfruit typical rich, deeply flavoured reds. When it comes to
foundations of the modern Chilean wine of its New Zealand counterparts. Chardonnay wine, you can do almost anything in Chile.
industry were laid — this time due to the can be creamy, although you do find more As for value for money, that comes down to
French, after Chile’s merchant class developed full-bodied, oaky examples, too (look for the fact Chile’s wine scene is dominated by
a taste for their wine and began importing the description ‘gran reserva’). Pinot noir vast, commercially minded companies such as
vines from France. flourishes in Chile: nowhere else produces Concha y Toro, whose brands — which include
Long and thin, sandwiched between the such exotically juicy red berry fruit flavours Casillero del Diablo and Cono Sur — account
Andes and the Pacific, Chile offers plenty of for the price. Bordeaux varieties such as for 61% of all Chilean wine sales in the UK.
climatic variety. A coastal mountain range merlot, cabernet sauvignon and cabernet Other big players include Errázuriz, Emiliana
protects the vineyards of central valleys such franc do particularly well in making smooth and Santa Rita. They may not feel like the most
as Colchagua and Maipo, making them more reds. Carménère, a minor player in Bordeaux, exciting options but they’re among the most
temperate. Meanwhile, cooler valleys nearer is Chile’s signature grape, while syrah is a reliable and reasonably priced, so it’s worth
the central coast — including Casablanca, rising star. There are also some refreshing raising a glass to that.

FI V E TO TRY

Zapallares Reserva Macerao Orange 2021 Miguel Torres La Tesco Finest Peumo Undurraga
Riesling 2019 I TATA Causa País 2017 Carmenere 2019 Cauquenes Estate
CASABL ANCA Orange wine (also known I TATA C AC H A P OA L Carignan 2019
Fresh and zesty with a vivid as ‘amber wine’), is in Among the first European A reliable example of the M AU L E
streak of lime. Much drier vogue, and this inexpensive producers to set up in Chile, carménère grape at a Carignan can be rustic, but
than rieslings you’ll find example from the Itata Miguel Torres proves pais terrific price. A smooth, when it’s made — as here
from Germany or elsewhere Valley is redolent of quince, grapes can produce wines plummy wine, it tastes like — from 60-year-old Maule
in Europe, this would be orange blossom and dried with the finesse of pinot merlot but with a herby, Valley grapes, it takes on a
great with ceviche and apricots. It works well with noir. Duck is a classic pairing, peppery edge. It goes dense, velvety character. A
other raw seafood, or roasted vegetables such as but guineafowl or chicken very well with lamb curry, terrific match for venison,
Mexican dishes such as cauliflower, aubergines and would also work. £10.50. especially if it includes beef and ox cheek stews.
tacos. £10.50. davy.co.uk squash. £8.99. waitrose.com winestoreeccleston.co.uk coriander. £8 tesco.com £9.25. thewinesociety.com

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A S K THE E XPERTS
O U R PAN EL AN SWER S YO U R C U LI NARY Q U E S TI O N S , I N C LU D I N G WH ERE TO
E AT I N CO RK AN D H OW TO U S E TH E H ERB B LEN D D U KK AH

TH E
E X PE RT S I’m visiting Cork. Where should I eat? Many of Cork’s restaurants are independently
Pól Ó Conghaile: Cork is home to a tangle of owned. Lots do walk-ins, but book ahead for Denis
streets, lanes and quays full of markets, cafes, Cotter’s Café Paradiso (paradiso.restaurant), a
pubs and restaurants — and a food culture that vegetarian haven where small plates may include
feels a step ahead of Dublin and Belfast. The city roast aubergine with black garlic rayu and crispy
draws from Ireland’s fishing villages, farms and shallots, and parsnip risotto with orange-glazed
artisan producers, while outdoor dining came to oyster mushrooms. Takashi Miyazaki’s Michelin-
the fore on pedestrianised Princes Street during starred Ichigo Ichie (ichigoichie.ie) is another fine
the pandemic. dining tip, with Irish seafood put through the
Start with a wander through the indoor filters of Japanese tradition and technique.
English Market. Pick and mix as you go, or Finally, Elbow Lane (elbowlane.ie) is a gritty
tuck into a market lunch at the Farmgate and gorgeous pit-stop serving its own craft beers
Pól Ó Conghaile
Travel editor, Irish Café (farmgatecork.ie) above the stalls. From alongside deliciously smoked savouries — think
Independent local tripe to lamb stew and smoked haddock rib-eyes lavished with smoked butter or wood-
fishcakes, the menu is hearty yet stylish. grilled fish and veg.

Shahir Massoud
chef and author of
Eat, Habibi, Eat!

Becky Gupta
Cobh Cathedral and colourful
founder,
houses at sunrise in Cork
Washington
Wine Novice

Can you recommend a few ways of using dukkah? example, or nuts such as almonds, cashews and
Shahir Massoud: A spice drawer must-have, dukkah macadamias, and spices like sumac, anise and
is a dynamic mixture of nuts, seeds and dried black pepper.
IMAGES: ANDREA SORANIDIS; AWL IMAGES

herbs, which has its roots in Egypt. Various versions In its classic form, dukkah is a wonderful
can be found in Middle Eastern speciality stores, addition to olive oil — which makes a great dip for
but the traditional mix usually combines hazelnuts, fresh pitta bread — but it’s very versatile. Try it with
cumin, coriander, sesame seeds and dried mint ubiquitous dishes that could use a little livening up:
— offering a balance of herbaceous, nutty and scrambled eggs, salads, baked white fish, roasted
fragrant flavours. carrots and even whipped goat’s cheese. They’re
You can play around with different combinations really enhanced by a sprinkling of dukkah, with its
Andrea Soranidis of ingredients to create your own blend, tailored earthy crunch. Before you know it, you’ll be adding
food blogger at to your personal taste and favourite dishes. Try it to everything from roast vegetables to meat and
The Petite Cook using different dried herbs such as parsley, for cheese boards.

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Can you recommend a recipe for a frittata? Drain and pat the asparagus dry using some
Andrea Soranidis: Asparagus frittata is kitchen paper.
a much-loved Italian dish, especially in Add the olive oil to a 22-25cm ovenproof
springtime when asparagus is in season. frying pan and place over a low-medium
It’s just as good cold as it is hot, making it a heat. Add the blanched asparagus and
fantastic option for picnics. This recipe can be onion (if using) then sauté for 5 mins, until
made a day in advance, and leftovers can be slightly softened.
stored in an airtight container in the fridge for Meanwhile, put the eggs and ricotta into
up to four days. a large bowl along with a generous pinch of
S E RV E S : 4 TA K E S : 2 5 M I N S sea salt and freshly ground black pepper.
Add most of the grated parmesan, reserving
INGREDIENTS 1 tbsp for the topping. Beat well to combine.
300g green asparagus, sliced into 2.5cm chunks Spread the asparagus out so it evenly
2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil covers the bottom of the frying pan, then
½ onion, very finely chopped (optional) pour over the egg mixture. Cover with a lid
6 large free-range eggs or some foil and cook for 5 mins, until the
Which wineries should I visit in 1 tbsp ricotta frittata comes away from the bottom of the
Washington state? 75g parmesan cheese, grated pan easily but the surface is still jiggly.
Becky Gupta: Despite not being 1 tsp chopped chives, for the topping (optional) Remove the lid or foil and sprinkle the
that well-known, Washington reserved parmesan and chives (if using) over
is on a par with some of the best METHOD the top. Transfer to the oven and cook for
wine-growing regions around the Heat oven to 180C, 160C fan, gas 4. 5 mins, until golden and cooked through.
world. The extreme temperature Place a medium-sized pan of water over Serve either hot, chilled from the fridge or
change between day and night a high heat and bring to the boil. Add the at room temperature, cut into wedges or
stresses grapevines, yielding robust, chopped asparagus and cook for 2 mins. small squares.
well-balanced and flavourful wines
including cabernet sauvignon,
syrah and merlot — the most widely
produced varieties in the state.
Washington’s most popular
areas for winery visits include
Woodinville, Yakima Valley and
Columbia Valley, but you also
shouldn’t miss a weekend jaunt
to Walla Walla, home to the Blue
Mountain range.
Dusted Valley (dustedvalley.com)
produces bold, memorable wines
focusing on cabernet sauvignon,
syrah and chardonnay, with tasting
locations in Walla Walla, Edmonds
and Woodinville. To meet the
winemakers and take a tour of the
vines, book the Winemaker’s
Select Tasting.
Armstrong Family Winery
(armstrongwinery.com) produces
some top-notch wines, the most
notable variety being cabernet franc,
which turns out smooth and well-
balanced year after year. The tasting
rooms are located in Woodinville
and Walla Walla, the latter being
right in the heart of downtown and
perfect for dining at the area’s
best restaurants.
Kiona Vineyards (kionawine.
com), located in Benton City, makes
wine from grapes grown on Red
Mountain, which is known for being
home to some of the oldest vines in
the state. Kiona produces a variety of
great wines with every vintage, from
robust reds to a highly acclaimed
chenin blanc icewine.

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S TA RT E R S

MY L I F E I N F O O D

C AITLIN MOR AN
The author on food in London, her dream dinner
guest and mealtimes as one of eight children

mountains, in 15th-century roadside inns — but

in Japan, you can only really get Japanese food.
In London, there’s everything. Except good chip
shops. For proper chips, you still need to be in
the Midlands or the North.
Once I find a place I like, I‘m very faithful to
it. I either go to NOPI — Ottolenghi’s ‘fancy’
restaurant, where the savoury Valdeón
cheesecake has been my go-to order since I first
had it 10 years ago and cried over how lovely
it was; or Noble Rot. Despite all the amazing
modern food and fabulous wines, its 17th-
century building feels like the kind of place a
highwayman would come to drink ale, and who
doesn’t want to feel like a tipsy highwayman?
As a very greedy person, I cook a lot. It’s the
only way you can guarantee having exactly
what you want, exactly when you want it. I
generally cook from Ottolenghi and Anna Jones
books, but my signature dish is a vegetarian
pie I invented for Christmas dinner 10 years
ago: shiitake mushrooms, chestnuts and savoy
cabbage in garlic, sherry and creme fraiche,
between glossy shortcrust pastry. It is, even
though I say so myself, spectacular.
If I were an ingredient, I’d be butter. It’s the
Elizabeth Taylor of milk products. It can be
elegant, it can be dirty, it gives everything balls.
I genuinely believe you can’t have too much
The food of my childhood was anything ‘cheap butter on bread, or toast. When you bite into it,
and bulky’. As a result, we looked cheap and you should leave teeth marks that look like the
bulky. I’m one of eight and we were raised on White Cliffs of Dover.
benefits. Carbs and fats are far less expensive I went to The Fat Duck for my 32nd birthday,
than fruit, veg and protein, and so we were fat, and it remains an out-of-this-world experience.
but also quite hungry. We had no flavours in There’s a moment where you’re served a ‘beach’
IMAGES: ALEX LAKE; JUAN TRUJILLO ANDRADES FOR THE NOBLE ROT; NOPI; GETTY
our house: a jar of ‘mixed herbs’ was so old they of powdered, roasted eel dust, with a ‘strand
tasted of dust, and a single nutmeg we had from line’ of seaweed, and they give you an iPod in
1986 to 1989 still had the price label: 13½p. a shell, so you can listen to sea sounds — that
People from big families don’t eat their food, remains a memory of genuine, childlike magic.
they inhale it. You have to — you can’t pause Being in the middle of the countryside makes it
to chew because someone will lean across your feel even more like food Narnia.
plate and say: “You don’t want that sausage, My dream dinner guest would be Paul
then?” One year, we ate our whole Christmas McCartney. As anyone who’s watched Get Back
dinner in seven minutes. A whole day to prepare will know, in 1969 he was the finest a man has
and it was gone in seven minutes! ever been. Just casually knocking out Let It Be
The Black Country is famous for its curries, in a tank top, being all liberal and sexy and a
but we never had the money to eat out. I genius. And I think he’d want the other Beatles
keep meaning to go back [Caitlin grew up in there, too. After dinner, I’d just point to our
Wolverhampton] and do a tour of the balti piano, and be like, “Fancy one last gig in our
houses, so I can become properly maudlin over front room?” We’d then throw the windows
what I missed out on as a child. open, and the whole street could listen to The
The most impressive place for cuisine is Beatles jamming, while I eat a crisp sandwich.
London. I had an amazing gastronomic tour Caitlin Moran’s book More Than a Woman
of Japan a couple of years ago, with out-of- (£8.99, Ebury Press) is out now in paperback.
this-world sashimi and broths — in cities, on Interview: Farida Zeynalova

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Enjoyable Moments
in Gstaad
Here you will find lots of things that are good for you. The picturesque nature helps you relax and first-class spas pamper
you from head to toe. You can also enjoy culinary highlights on panoramic sun terraces or be the guest of a star chef. A few
carefree days in the destination Gstaad and the world is already turning slower.

The region in southwestern Switzerland shops and at the tourism office and is also
captivates with its irresistible alpine charm. available as a backpack.
Perfect for strolling through the idyllic
Everything about summer in Gstaad
mountain world, dipping your feet in icy
can be found at gstaad.ch/summer.
streams while stretching your legs towards
the sun. It’s truly enjoyable to hike and use
all your senses. It is both relaxing and in-
vigorating. After a day in the fresh air, you
can enjoy a well-deserved relaxation in the
spa area at one of the seven award-winning
wellness hotels.

A unique highlight is the Gstaad Picnic

Basket: filled with local products, it is the
perfect companion for an outing in nature.
It can be borrowed or purchased in various
NEW YORK COOKIES
& CREAM

CHOOSE YOUR NEXT ADVENTURE

S TA RT E R S

RECIPE JOURNAL

Filling in
TH E SAN DWI C H I S TH E S IMPLE S TAPLE THAT ’ S WOVEN I NTO TH E D NA
O F SO M ANY D E S TI NATI O N S , FROM P O ’ B OYS I N LO U I S IANA TO
JA MB O N B EU RRE I N PARI S . WO RD S: C H RI S TI E D I E T Z

Monte Cristo (French toast

with ham and cheese)

The sandwich as we know and love it today is one of the sandwiches, from the French jambon beurre to Macau’s
most globally embraced foods, yet its origins are hard bone-in pork chop in a bun. Then there are the elaborate
to pin down. The modern Western concept of assembling — take the Israeli sabich, a pita stuffed with the likes of
a portable snack using two slices of bread likely has its aubergine, pickles, parsley, tahini, chopped salad, eggs
roots in 18th-century Europe, but evidence has been and amba sauce — and the excessive: Porto’s francesinha
found in cultures all over the world that the practice is packed with steak, sausage and ham, covered in melted
of using bread to encase other foods existed long before cheese and drenched in tomato and beer sauce.
this. There’s also debate about how the sandwich is The joy in assembling a sandwich of your own is
defined: is a Nashville hot chicken sandwich really that there’s no one correct way to do it; it’s all down
a burger? Is a Danish open sandwich, without a second to personal taste. However, the following recipes
slice of rye resting on it, really a sandwich at all? demonstrate not only the variety of sandwiches around
Some destinations are synonymous with their the world, but also the importance of balancing flavours
sandwiches: from Louisiana’s po’ boy to the Maine lobster and textures. Choosing the right bread for the job is
IMAGE: STOCKFOOD

roll, every state and city in the United States seems to crucial: if you switch a crunchy baguette for slices of cut
have its own. Other countries are awash with variations: loaf, you may end up with your filling all over the floor.
head to Italy for egg salad tramezzino, a porchetta The most important thing is to enjoy yourself. We may
panino, or deep-fried carrozza oozing with mozzarella forever argue over fillings, but the ultimate sandwich is
cheese. Some cultures offer delightfully uncomplicated simply the one you like best.

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Since the fish finger reached UK shores in 1955, introduced by a certain American by the
name of Clarence Birdseye, the fish finger sandwich has become a British comfort food
classic, whether eaten with butter and ketchup in the kitchen or in a gastropub with wasabi
mayonnaise. If you can’t find haddock for this recipe, any other white fish fillets will do,
just be sure to adjust the cooking time depending on their thickness. If you make the peas
and tartare sauce in advance, you’ll have everything you need to produce a quick dinner.

Fish finger sandwich METHOD along with the mint, lemon juice, and
by Kirsty Scobie and To make the breadcrumbs, put the some salt and pepper. Whizz up until
Fenella Renwick 3 slices of white bread and chopped you have a coarse puree. Set aside.
S E RV E S : 4 TA K E S : 3 0 M I N S herbs into a food processor and whizz Pour the oil into a large saucepan
until you have fine crumbs. Set aside. or a deep-fat fryer — enough to
INGREDIENTS Slice each haddock fillet into four submerge the goujons — and heat to
2 large haddock fillets (200-225g each) equal-sized goujons. You will now 180C. If you don’t have a thermometer,
50g plain flour have eight small fillets. drop a small piece of bread into the oil;
2 large eggs, beaten Put the plain flour into a bowl, the if it sizzles, it’s hot enough. Carefully
vegetable oil, for deep-frying beaten eggs into another bowl and slide a few goujons into the oil, using a
8 slices quality bread your breadcrumbs into a third bowl. metal spoon to separate them. Fry for
rocket or watercress, to garnish Add salt and pepper to each and mix. 2-3 mins, until golden brown. Remove
4 heaped tbsp tartare sauce Dip the haddock goujons first with a slotted metal spoon, then leave
into the flour, then the egg, then the to drain on kitchen paper while you
IMAGES: UYEN LUU; CLAIR IRWIN PHOTOGRAPHY

FOR THE BREADC RUMB S breadcrumbs, coating the goujons repeat with the remaining fish.
3 slices white bread, crusts removed completely at each stage. Lay them Lightly toast the bread. For each
handful fresh herbs (such as parsley on a plate and set aside. sandwich, spread one slice with
and dill), finely chopped For the pea puree, put a saucepan pea puree, then add 2 goujons and
of water on the hob and bring to the a handful of rocket or watercress.
FOR THE MINTY PEAS boil. Add the peas to the pan and Spread another slice with a heaped
400g frozen petits pois cook over a medium heat for 3 mins tbsp of tartare sauce and put on top.
handful of mint leaves until just tender; take care not to
1 tbsp lemon juice overcook them as they’ll lose their Taken from The Seafood Shack:
bright colour and fresh taste. Drain Food & Tales from Ullapool, by
and let them steam-dry for a minute, Kirstie Scobie and Fenella Renwick
then add them to the food processor (Kitchen Press, £20)

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S TA RT E R S

The origins of bánh mì lie in the

19th-century French colonial rule of
Vietnam, but the sandwich as we know it
was invented in Ho Chi Minh City in the
1950s. Vietnamese baguettes are light and
airy with a soft interior and a crackly crust,
although the French version also works
well. The quality of the pork here makes
a huge difference to the flavour and texture.

Bánh mì
by Uyen Luu
S E RV E S : 4 TA K E S : 1 H R 5 0 M I N S P L U S AT L E A S T 2 H R S
M A R I N AT I N G T I M E

INGREDIENTS FOR THE PORK

1kg free-range boneless pork MARINADE
belly, skin scored into ½ tbsp sea salt
1cm squares ½ tbsp light soy sauce
1 tbsp sea salt flakes 1 tsp garlic powder
1 tbsp cider vinegar ½ tsp five-spice powder
or lime juice
4 x 30cm long Vietnamese or F O R T H E C A R ROT A N D
French baguettes KO H L R A B I P I C K L E
butter, for spreading 100g carrots, peeled
selection of garnishes, such as and grated
coriander, mint, Thai basil, 100g kohlrabi or daikon,
thinly sliced cucumber, peeled and thinly sliced
sliced spring onion, sliced 2 tbsp cider vinegar
red chilli, watercress, pea 1½ tbsp caster sugar
shoots and chilli sauce and
Maggi liquid seasoning

METHOD
Boil some water in a kettle. Place the pork skin-side up
in a large bowl and pour in boiling water until the meat is
submerged. Set aside for 5 mins. Drain, then repeat twice.
This removes excess fat and helps the skin crisp up. Drain,
then dab the skin dry with kitchen paper.
Mix all the marinade ingredients in a small bowl. Flip the
meat so it’s skin-side down and rub the marinade over the
meat side. Turn it back over and pat the skin dry again.
Sprinkle the sea salt flakes over the skin and rub in the
cider vinegar or lime juice. Set aside for at least 2 hrs (up to
8 hrs), drying the skin with kitchen paper every 30 mins.
Heat oven to 220C, fan 240C, gas 7. Line a roasting tin
with baking paper and put a metal rack on top. Place the
pork belly skin-side up on the rack and roast for 1 hr, then
turn over for a final 10 mins, until tender. Leave to cool
completely, then slice the meat using a cleaver.
While the pork is cooking, make the pickle. Add the
carrot and kohlrabi or daikon to a bowl and sprinkle over
some salt. Set aside for 15 mins.
In another bowl, mix the cider vinegar and caster sugar.
Add the veg, then leave to pickle for at least 30 mins.
When you’re ready to assemble, split each baguette
lengthways and pull out the filling (you can save this for
making breadcrumbs). Spread some butter inside, then
layer with the roast pork, carrot and kohlrabi pickle, and
your choice of garnishes. Close the sandwich.

Taken from Vietnamese: Simple Vietnamese Food to Cook

at Home by Uyen Luu (Hardie Grant, £22)

N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO.U K / F O O D -T R AV EL 33
These simple pan-fried sandwiches are, for many Indians, a childhood favourite,
and also proof that a satisfying, flavourful sandwich doesn’t require much time or
effort — or indeed fish or meat. Crunchy cabbage and carrot are bound together
with yoghurt, stuck between two slices of bread and cooked briefly in butter
sizzling with black mustard seeds. Yoghurt sandwiches don’t have to be eaten hot
but are best consumed the day they’re made. And while we’ve suggested white
cabbage, any cabbage works well.

Yogurt sandwiches by Chetna Makan pinch of salt and freshly ground black pepper, and
S E RV E S : 4 TA K E S : 1 0 M I N S mix it all together.
Lay four slices of bread on the work surface and
INGREDIENTS divide the yoghurt mixture evenly between them.
100g white cabbage, finely sliced Close the sandwiches with the remaining four slices
1 carrot, peeled and grated of bread.
½ red pepper, finely chopped Put a frying pan or flat griddle pan over a medium
1 small green chilli, finely chopped heat. Add ¼ tsp butter and ¼ tsp mustard seeds,
10g fresh coriander leaves, finely chopped and let them sizzle for a bit. Place one sandwich in
150g natural yoghurt the pan and cook for 1-2 mins, until golden and crispy
8 slices white bread underneath. Turn it over, add another ¼ tsp butter to
2 tsp salted butter, for frying the pan, and cook until golden on that side.
1 tsp black mustard seeds Transfer to a plate and repeat with the remaining
sandwiches. Serve whole or cut into small triangles.
METHOD
Put the cabbage, carrot, pepper, chilli and Taken from Chetna’s Healthy Indian: Vegetarian by
coriander into a bowl. Add the yoghurt along with a Chetna Makan (Mitchell Beazley, £20)

34 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO.U K / F O O D -T R AV EL
S TA RT E R S

Portuguese in origin, piri Prego rolls (steak & piri seal the bag. Leave to marinate at room
piri sauce (sometimes piri sandwiches) temperature for 15 mins or in the fridge for
by Hawa Hassan with up to 24 hrs.
alternatively written as Julia Turshen When you’re ready to grill the steak,
peri peri) and prego rolls S E RV E S : 6 TA K E S : 4 5 M I N S place a griddle pan over a medium heat
are widely eaten in the P L U S 1 5 M I N S T O 2 4 H R S M A R I N AT I N G or prepare an outdoor grill to reach
a medium heat.
former Portuguese colony
INGREDIENTS Remove the steak from the bag, letting
of Mozambique. Peri, the 675g skirt steak, trimmed of excess fat any excess marinade drip back into the
Swahili word for chilli, 6 tbsp unsalted butter bag, and put it on the griddle pan or grill.
refers to the specific chilli 6 garlic cloves, crushed Discard the bag. Cook the steak, turning it
6 Portuguese or ciabatta rolls, every so often, until charred in spots and
pepper, said to have first
halved horizontally cooked to your liking — about 3 mins per
been cultivated in Africa, side for medium-rare. Transfer the steak to
that’s traditionally used to F O R T H E P I R I P I R I S AU C E a chopping board and rest for 10 mins.
make the sauce. Various 10 red Fresno or jalapeño chillies, deseeded Meanwhile, melt the butter in a small
and roughly chopped pan over a low heat. Pour the melted
other chillies also work well 2 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed butter into a small bowl and mix in the
here, however, and if you 5cm piece ginger, peeled and finely sliced garlic and a pinch of salt. Spoon this
can’t find the Fresno chillies into coins mixture over the cut sides of the rolls and
juice of 4 limes place them cut-side down on your hot
used in this recipe, simply
60ml extra-virgin olive oil griddle pan or grill for about 1 min, until
substitute them with three 1 tbsp granulated sugar, plus extra to taste golden brown. Transfer the rolls to
fresh jalapeño peppers 1 tsp salt, plus extra to taste a serving platter.
instead. Cook the steak Thinly slice the steak and divide it
METHOD among the bottom halves of the rolls.
in a very hot cast-iron pan
Add all the piri piri sauce ingredients Drizzle each portion with the reserved
if you don’t have an outside to a blender and whizz to a smooth puree. piri piri sauce (about 2 tbsp each) and close
grill; and if you can’t find Taste, and add a little more sugar and salt the sandwiches with the tops of the rolls.
Portuguese bread rolls, try if you like. Serve immediately.
Put the steak and half the piri piri sauce
another type of soft bread in a large resealable plastic bag, reserving Taken from In Bibi’s Kitchen by Hawa
dusted with flour, such the other half for serving. Using your Hassan with Julia Turshen (£25, Ten
as ciabatta. hands, rub the sauce all over the steak and Speed Press)
IMAGES: NASSIMA ROTHACKER; KHADIJA M. FARAH/JENNIFER MAY

N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO.U K / F O O D -T R AV EL 35
S TA RT E R S

On the menu
FROM A FIVE- C HEESE TE X AN SPEC IAL TO CO RNED
B EEF FILIPIN O -ST YLE, HERE ARE EIGHT O F THE B EST
SANDWIC HES FROM MEN U S ARO U ND THE WO RLD

S E A F O O D S A N DW I C H E S
Fresh from the Sea, Cornwall
You’d be hard pushed to find a fresher seafood sandwich than the
ones made at this Port Isaac institution. In season, crab and lobster
are caught daily in the bay. The sandwiches, made to order, are
wonderfully simple affairs, the meat packed between slices of
wholemeal bread with mayonnaise and a handful of salad leaves.
Crab sandwich, £9.75. Lobster sandwich, £12. freshfromthesea.co.uk

CORNED BEEF HASH SANDO

Cookie sandwich,
Panadera Bakery, London Moo Pie
This sandwich from the Filipino bakery in Kentish Town has
fast become a favourite London lunch. A croquette made with Below: Shredded bison
homemade corned beef hash, small chunks of potato and bechamel dip, Feast Cafe Bistro
sauce, all covered in breadcrumbs, is wedged between slices of
pandesal, a Filipino milk bread, also made in-house. It’s topped with
fried shallots, butterhead lettuce, garlic sauce and a ketchup infused
with calamansi (a Filipino lime). £7.50 panaderabakery.com SHREDDED BISON DIP
Feast Café Bistro, Winnipeg
TG C 5 C H E E S E C L A S S I C Christa Bruneau-Guenther, from the Peguis First Nation community,
Twisted Grilled Cheese, Houston creates modern dishes using Indigenous ingredients. Traditional
This Houston favourite operates two food trucks and a restaurant in bannock is a type of flat, golden fry bread that’s ubiquitous in the
the city. Most of its cheese sandwiches come with a twist, but the cuisines of North America’s First Nation peoples, with plenty of
5 Cheese Classic, with Vermont white cheddar, provolone, mozzarella variation. Christa uses homemade bannock for pizza, burgers and
and yellow and white American cheeses, is one for the purists. Pair it sandwiches: this one, stuffed with shredded bison meat, melted
with tomato basil soup. $8.99 (£6.60) twistedgrilledcheese.com cheese, sautéed vegetables and wild blueberry BBQ sauce, is served
with horseradish mayo. $CAD14.95 (£8.75). feastcafebistro.com
S AU M AG E N B RÖTC H E N
Metzgerei Hambel, Wachenheim FRUIT SANDO
Saumagen is a speciality of Germany’s Palatinate region. Pork, herbs Fruits and Season, Tokyo
and vegetables are stuffed into a pig’s stomach before being cooked Japan’s fruit sando was likely invented in the early 1900s at one of
in a water bath, removed from the casing and fried in thick slices. It’s the country’s traditional fruit parlors. Seasonal fruits are lodged into
eaten with sauerkraut and potatoes but can be enjoyed in a crusty roll chilled whipped cream and held in place by slices of shokupan (milk
(brötchen). Try it from the butcher who made it for former German bread). Japan’s first vegan fruit sando shop, in Tokyo’s Ebisu district,
chancellor Helmut Kohl — seasonal variations include asparagus, offers versions in which both cream and bread are soy-based.
chestnuts and truffle. From €2.20 (£1.60). metzgerei-hambel.de A mixed set of four beautifully symmetrical seasonal sandwiches
might contain the likes of strawberry, persimmon and pear. Seasonal
set, from ¥5,400 (£34.35). fruitsandseason.com/collections

K AYA A N D B U T T E R TOA S T W I T H E G G S A N D C O F F E E
Heap Seng Leong, Singapore
People flock to this kopitiam (traditional coffee shop) for a breakfast
of thick slices of white bread toasted on a charcoal grill, spread with
kaya (sweet coconut jam) and sandwiched together with slices of
chilled butter. As part of the classic kopitiam breakfast trinity, it’s
served with glasses of traditionally brewed butter coffee, and two
very soft-boiled eggs, the runny white and yolk mixed together in a
saucer with white pepper and dark soy sauce. $SGD 3.60 (£1.95).

C O O K I E S A N DW I C H
Moo Pie Gelato, Edinburgh
This popular purveyor of sweet treats on St Mary’s Street is known for
its creatively flavoured small batch gelato and soft serve. Moo Pie’s
cookie sandwich offerings change monthly, with previous versions
having included sticky toffee soft serve topped with crushed candied
pecans, sandwiched into brown butter, ginger and molasses cookies.
Cookie Sandwich, £5.00. facebook.com/moopiegelato

36 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO.U K / F O O D -T R AV EL
Prilaz braće Kaliterna 10/1, 21000 Split, Croatia
tel: +385 (0) 21 490 032, 490 033, 490 036
NORN IE B E RO

THE PIONEER
B O RN AN D R AI S ED I N TH E TO RRE S S TR AIT I S L AN D S , C H EF
N O RN I E B ERO PU T S A LI FELO N G PA S S I O N FO R AU S TR ALIA’ S
NATIVE B O U NT Y AT TH E H E ART O F H ER MELB O U RN E
RE S TAU R ANT. WO RD S: R AN E T TE PRIME

At Big Esso, diners are greeted by a tiger shark. Among the dishes with which Bero pays
The bamboo sculpture, from Moa Island, in respect is tea grass and wild boar with pig’s
the Torres Strait, hangs from the ceiling, while blood jus. “I grew up eating everything and
a wall is adorned with a bold mural by local not wasting anything,” she says. “With the
Indigenous artist and activist Aretha Brown. pig’s blood, we make a stew with spices like
Cocktails feature ingredients like muntries natural ginger and native pepper berries;
(berries with a spicy apple flavour), Kakadu they have the perfumy smell of cloves and
plums and Adelaide-made Australian Green spice of Sichuan pepper. It’s then lightened
Ant Gin. The food menu, meanwhile, features with a lemon myrtle labneh on the side.”
kangaroo, bush tomato and sea succulents. Grown in the rainforests of Queensland,
For chef Nornie Bero, ensuring native lemon myrtle leaf gives dishes a strong citrus
Australian ingredients are “the hero of kick if added at the right time — towards the
the dish” is key to her central Melbourne end of cooking.
restaurant. And, she says, although many Bero is no stranger to making the most of
other chefs do use the likes of wattleseed Australian produce — she’s been doing it her
or strawberry gum, “it’s always been just a whole life, having grown up on Mer Island,
tokenistic thing or a little sliver on top — you one of more than 270 islands scattered across
never really get to taste it. If I put kangaroo the Torres Strait, the stretch of water dividing
bourguignon on the menu, I want you to the northern tip of Queensland from Papua
MABU MABU BY NORNIE BERO (£22, HARDIE GRANT)

concentrate on the kangaroo tail and the New Guinea. Self-described “island girl”
pepper berries that it’s cooked in”. Bero was born into the Komet tribe, growing
Opened in June 2021, Big Esso is Bero’s up immersed in its customs and traditional
tribute to the abundance of the land, as well as ways of life. As a child, she’d spend the early
to everyone who’s influenced and supported mornings and late afternoons scouring the
her. “‘Big esso’ means ‘the biggest thank you’ reefs for things to eat. “As hunter gatherers, we
IMAGES: ARMELLE HABIB

[in Torres Strait Creole],” she explains. “This is had to set off before sunrise to catch octopus,
what you say when you really want to express for pickling, before they ran away from us,” she
Barbecued emu marinated in your gratitude. All our recipes pay homage to recalls. Fish trapped in lagoons were caught
molasses, served with chimichurri the people of this land that my business is on. with spears, while stray oysters would be
I’m not just representing myself but those who cracked open against the rocks and eaten on
Right: Nornie Bero were here before me.” the spot.

N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO.U K / F O O D -T R AV EL 39
S TA RT E R S

Wattleseed pavlova
This twist on a classic dessert uses two native
ingredients — wattleseed and strawberry gum
(a eucalyptus leaf with a fruity, herbal flavour,
usually sold powdered). If you can’t get hold of
these, they can be substituted with cocoa powder
and strawberry essence, respectively.
S E RV E S : 8
TA K E S : 1 H R 4 5 M I N S P LU S C O O LI N G T I M E

Big Esso is home to an ‘Indigenous INGREDIENTS

bar’, where native ingredients are 6 egg whites
incorporated into the drinks 300g caster sugar
50g dark chocolate, coarsely grated
2 tbsp wattleseed powder or cocoa powder
2 tbsp white wine vinegar
“We can sustain ourselves from the for official recognition that Indigenous 1 tbsp cornflour
ocean,” Bero says. “But my journey all people occupied Australia for tens of plenty of mixed forest fruits (cherries, raspberries,
started with my father teaching me how thousands of years before the arrival of blueberries, blackberries and strawberries
to make damper [a traditional bread] and the British in 1788. work well), to garnish
pickled turtle eggs, and digging up my “Mabo is one of our biggest icons,” says
first yams.” Bero. “He stood up and really showcased F O R T H E S T R AW B E R RY G U M C R E A M
A youth spent celebrating the bounty that he knew the land was always ours 500g double cream
of land and sea has been a key influence and we shouldn’t have to fight for it. 1 tbsp strawberry gum sugar (or 1 tbsp icing sugar
on Bero’s cooking. “All the little things I come from the same island as him, plus ½ tsp strawberry essence)
about my childhood are in the menu,” she Mer, so he represents who I am and so
says. This includes one of her favourite much more — he fought to put us [Torres METHOD
dishes: namas. Similar to ceviche, it Strait Islanders] on the map, and I see Preheat the oven to 180C, 160C fan, gas 4.
features kingfish cured in coconut milk, myself doing the same.” The location Add the egg whites to a large mixing
finger lime, chilli and lemongrass, and of Bero’s restaurant is also important, bowl, and whisk using an electric whisk until
Bero serves it with taro crisps. “I want she says. It’s close to Birrarung Marr the egg whites turn silky and fluffy. Continue
people to eat more root vegetables; taro — a park dedicated to the Wurundjeri to whisk, adding the caster sugar 1 tbsp at a
is the most delicious thing you can eat people — and the Yarra River, a former time, until soft peaks form.
and the texture works well with the cured eel breeding ground set within a valley Gently fold in the chocolate, wattleseed
fish,” she says. that was, before colonisation, home to the (or cocoa) powder, vinegar and cornflour
After taking on her first catering job at Wurundjeri and Boonwurrung people. using a wooden spoon.
16, Bero went on to cook in Indian, Italian The past year has been a busy one Line a baking tray with a layer of baking
and Japanese kitchens across Australia, for Bero. In addition to opening the paper and spoon the mixture onto it to form
as well as in London. Eventually, she restaurant, she launched a catering a mound, then use the back of a metal spoon
settled in Melbourne and began selling company, Kara Meta, which, in January, to make a shallow well in the centre.
homemade condiments and spice fed hungry tennis fans at the Australian Put it in the oven and reduce the heat to
mixes at South Melbourne Market. Her Open a menu featuring namas, crocodile 150C, 130C fan, gas 2. Cook for 1 hr to 1 hr 15
own establishment followed in 2019: and baked yam. And then in February, mins; it’s done when the meringue easily
an Indigenous cafe, Mabu Mabu (‘help Bero published her debut cookbook. comes away from the paper. Turn off the heat
yourself’ in the Torres Strait’s Meriam Sharing a name with her first cafe, Mabu and leave it to cool completely in the oven.
language), in the west of the city. It made Mabu features recipes for some of Bero’s Next make the strawberry gum cream.
a name for itself with bold brunches best-loved dishes, as well as foraging tips
IMAGES: ARMELLE HABIB; PARKER BLAIN

Add the cream and strawberry gum sugar

incorporating native ingredients, and and a glossary of native ingredients. (or icing sugar and strawberry essence) to
supper club-style events celebrating the “Regardless of my culture and a large bowl. Whisk to stiff peaks using an
food and culture of the Torres Strait. tradition, I’m a chef at heart and so I love electric whisk and place in the fridge until
Mabu Mabu is currently closed while creating food. I want to make sure people you’re ready to serve.
Bero focuses on Big Esso, whose opening enjoy native ingredients but also have a When the meringue is completely cool,
was announced on 3 June last year. It familiarity with them as well,” she says. spoon the whipped cream on to it, finish with
was, says Bero, a significant date: Mabo “What keeps me going is getting everyone a mound of berries and serve straight away.
Day, which commemorates activist Eddie to join our ‘village’ and seeing it grow
Koiki Mabo, who won the legal battle more and more.”

40 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO.U K / F O O D -T R AV EL
FOOD FESTIVAL
16-17 JULY 2022
B U S IN E S S DE S IG N C E NTRE , LO N DO N

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IMAGE: CHARLIE RICHARDS. FOOD STYLING: ANGELA ROMEO

B U S I N E S S D E S I G N C E N TR E , LO N D O N
FOO D FE STIVA L . N ATG EOTR AV E LLE R .CO.U K
AROUND THE WORLD IN

SE VE N
SPIC E S
Few ingredients connect the world quite like spices. Whereas once ancient traders
traversed vast distances to move these seeds, fruits, roots and barks from one part of the
world to another, today their distinct flavours and aromas transport us beyond borders,
to places we once visited, countries we’re aching to see or simply to the regions that are
home to our favourite dishes. We’ve picked seven spices to take us around the globe:
vanilla, paprika, allspice, green cardamom, cinnamon, Sichuan pepper and saffron

W O R D S : A N J U M A N A N D , C A R O L Y N B Á N F A LV I , S A R A H B A R R E L L ,
ELL A BUCHAN, JEZ FREDENBURGH, CHING-HE HUANG,
R A C H E L L A I D L E R , S H I V I R A M O U TA R & FA R I D A Z E Y N A L O VA
IMAGES: GETTY; STOCKFOOD

44 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO.U K / F O O D -T R AV EL
SPICES

VA N I L L A T H R E E TO T RY
VA N I LL A
C O C K TA I L S

PRO D U C I N G VA N I L L A I S A R E A L L A B O U R O F LOV E , B U T I N SÃO TOM É A N D

PR Í N C I PE , T H E T E A M AT VA N I L H A A R E G E T T I N G T H E MO S T O U T O F T H I S
1 Juliette’s
Vanilha daiquiri
If you want a taste of São
PR EC I O U S C RO P. WO R D S: J E Z FR ED EN B U RG H & R AC H EL L A I D L ER Tomé, try this concoction from
Vanilha’s Juliette Dohar. It’s as
tropical as they come, because
Originating from Mexico’s rainforests expert skill. If you miss the two-hour window all the ingredients are grown
and once picked by the Aztecs to flavour to do this, when the flower opens, the bean or made on the island. Blend a
their cocoa, vanilla is today the most used will be wasted.” frozen banana with one and a
flavouring in the world and second most Part of the orchid family, vanilla is uniquely half shots of Vanilha rum, and
expensive spice after saffron. It’s also an difficult to grow because of its reliance on a pour into a margarita glass,
exceptionally labour-intensive crop, and tiny bee, native to Mexico, for its pollination. before adding a splash of fresh
highly liable to fail. Since the crop is largely grown outside the orange juice.
On São Tomé and Príncipe, a tiny island bee’s territory these days, in countries such
nation off the coast of Gabon, this challenge
has brought together two Europeans and a
group of local farmers, who are determined
as Madagascar and Tahiti, farmers have to
pollinate its flowers, painstakingly, by hand.
Which means Francesco and Juliette must
2 Vanilla sky
For a refreshing and
deliciously tart drink, try vanilla
to make vanilla growing less risky and bring dash up and down the island for three months sky, which combines citrus and
much-needed income to the islands. of the year, helping farmers to pollinate during tropical flavours. The cocktail
Located on the Equator — where vanilla this small window. is a blend of vanilla-flavoured
likes it best — São Tomé’s rich volcanic soils Once pollinated, bean pods take six months vodka, orange curaçao (a
produce pods with a distinctly nutty, caramel to grow, and are then harvested while still liqueur made with dried
aroma, which are subtler and more floral than green. “We then ‘kill’ the beans to stop them orange peel), almond syrup
Madagascan vanilla pods and lend themselves developing further by plunging them into (or amaretto for an extra kick),
to both sweet and savoury dishes. hot water,” says Juliette. “After this, they’re lemon and pineapple juice.
Vanilha, a company set up by Italian drained, wrapped in cotton canvas and put
businessman Francesco Mai and French
development student Juliette Dohar, is
working with 30 local farmers to utilise their
into wooden boxes to ferment at 50C for 48
hours. This is when the flavours and aromas
start to develop.”
3 Vanilla vodka
creamtini
Creamy and velvety, the
generational knowledge of growing vanilla, Next, the fermented beans are dried in the creamtini is a gloriously
while using high-tech monitoring equipment sun — a challenge on São Tomé since this induldent cocktail. Begin by
to hone techniques and improve the chances usually coincides with the rainy season rubbing the rim of a martini
of crop success. Since it launched in 2019, the — before going back into boxes to ‘sweat’ at glass with a wedge of orange
business has grown steadily, and the company a temperature of 40C. Lastly, they’re dried and coating it with vanilla
IMAGES: RACHEL LAIDLER

now produces and exports vanilla pods, in a dark room and then stored for six to 10 sugar. Then add a shaken
vanilla essence and vanilla rum. months to further develop flavours. blend of ice cubes, vanilla
“Vanilla isn’t about mass production, “After all this, one day you open the box and vodka, Irish cream liqueur
it’s about quality and patience,” explains hope to get an explosion of vanilla aromas,” and Cointreau.
Francesco. “One flower equals just one bean, says Juliette. “Only then do you know it is
and it must be pollinated by hand, which is an ready.” vanilha.com

46 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO.U K / F O O D -T R AV EL
Freshly picked
green vanilla pods

Clockwise from above:

Vanilha rum; bundles of
dried vanilla pods; Vanilha
co-founder Francesco Mai
PA P R I K A
H U N GA R I A N C U I S I N E I S I N T ERW I N ED W I T H PA P R I K A — A S A D I S H - BY- D I S H
TO U R O F B U DA PE S T D E MO N S T R AT E S . WO R D S: C A RO LY N B Á N FA LV I

Few cuisines are quite so intertwined with a single Pörkölt From left: Stand25,
ingredient as Hungary’s is with paprika — the spice The dish most often confused with goulash, known for its goulash;
that gives some of the country’s best-known dishes this rich stew gets its burnt-orange colour from cholent with meat,
their intense orange colour and characteristic peppery the abundance of paprika. It can be made with eggs and potatoes;
allpsice berries on
flavour. Paprika is made from the dried ground pods of meat or mushrooms, and is often served with
the tree
several types of capsicum annuum pepper, and it comes egg dumplings, egg barley pasta or potatoes.
in a range of heat levels from édes (sweet) to csipos (hot) W H E R E TO S TA RT: Getto Gulyas has a
and different levels of coarseness. wide selection of pörkölt. HUF 2,720 (£6.40)
Most of Hungary’s paprika is grown in the south, facebook.com/gettogulyas
particularly around the city of Szeged and the town of
Kalocsa, and in Budapest it’s sold everywhere, from Hortobágyi palacsinta
small grocery stores to local food markets, where small- Palacsinta are pancakes, served with sweet
scale producers sell it by the kilogram in unlabelled fillings. Hortobágyi palacsinta are the savoury
plastic bags. For the highest quality, seek reputable type, usually stuffed with chicken or veal and
family producers such as Hódi or PaprikaMolnár. drizzled with a paprika cream sauce.
Peppers made their way to Hungary in the 16th W H E R E TO S TA RT: Try it at Náncsi Néni
century, and paprika has since established itself as an under the shade of the towering chestnut trees
IMAGES: TAMÁS BUJNOVSZKY; GETTY

everyday ingredient in the Hungarian kitchen. in its garden. HUF 2,950 (£6.80) nancsineni.hu
To coax out paprika’s flavour, it should be added to hot
fat (which, in Hungary, is very often pork fat) and heated Halászlé
briefly to prevent it from burning and becoming bitter, There are many versions of this Hungarian
before the rest of the ingredients are added. This is the fisherman’s soup, but each is a deep, brick
first step for countless Hungarian recipes, for dishes colour due to the abundance of paprika.
such as gulyás (goulash), pörkölt (a meat stew), lecsó (a W H E R E TO S TA RT: Halkakas restaurant
vegetable ragout), Paprikás csirke (paprika chicken) and offers various versions, including one with
halászlé (a fish soup), where the paprika adds depth and dumplings. HUF 2,150-2,450 (£5-£5.60)
that unmistakable spicy complexity. halkakas.hu

48 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO.U K / F O O D -T R AV EL
SPICES

Lecsó Paprikás csirke

A national staple of sweet peppers, onions, This dish (‘paprika chicken’) is essentially
tomatoes and paprika, cooked in smoked bacon chicken stewed in its own juices with onions
fat. It’s often prepared in abundance in early and plenty of paprika. According to George
autumn when the tomatoes and peppers are Lang, author of The Cuisine of Hungary, it’s
at their peak. Lecsó is typically served with one of the four pillars of Hungarian cooking,
roasted meat, sausages or egg. along with gulyás, pörkölt and tokány (a pepper
W H E R E TO S TA RT: Bistro Café Kör features stew). ‘The chief difference between pörkölt
a daily menu that’s full of Hungarian classics. and paprikás,’ writes Lang, ‘is that paprikás is
It’s the ideal place to sample lecsó when it’s usually finished with sweet or sour cream

ALLSPICE
in season, served with dumplings, sausage or — sometimes mixed with a little flour, but
pork medallions. HUF 3,980 (£9.20) always stirred in just before serving.’
facebook.com/cafekorrestaurant W H E R E TO S TA RT: Déryné bistro is as
popular with celebrities as it is with locals.
Goulash Visit for the elegant Sunday brunch to sample T H I S S W EE T B ER RY I M PA RT S
The most quintessential of all Hungarian paprikás csirke. HUF 3,780 (£8.70) deryne.com A N E A RT H Y WA R MT H .
dishes, goulash is also deeply misunderstood. WO R D S: S H I V I R A MO U TA R
While most of the world thinks of it as a stew, Cholent
in Hungary it’s unmistakably a soup. Goulash This hearty, slow-cooked bean stew is a
is simple in its perfection: tender cubes of beef, traditional Jewish dish that would be put Of all the sweet spices on the rack,
a hearty amount of paprika, a few potatoes in the oven on Friday before sunset (since it to me, allspice stands apart, with
and carrots, a bit of pasta, some onions and is forbidden to light a fire on the Sabbath), its robust flavour and peppery and
little else. It’s served at nearly every Hungarian baked over a low heat all night, then eaten woody aromatics. To meals, it brings
restaurant, from the simplest hole-in-the-wall on Saturday. Preparation varies in different an earthy warmth that works as well
operation to Michelin-starred establishments. countries, but in Hungary it, naturally, in sweet dishes as in savoury ones.
Cooking it over an open fire in a bogrács (a includes paprika. It also has additions such as Native to Jamaica, it’s said to
heavy metal pot) is a treasured family activity hard-boiled eggs, goose leg and other types have been first used by the island’s
and an great way to experience this iconic dish. of meat. Indigenous people in an early form
W H E R E TO S TA RT: Chefs Szabina Szulló W H E R E TO S TA RT: Rosenstein is one of barbecue, in which the meat was
and Tamás Széll describe their restaurant, of Budapest’s best Jewish-Hungarian smoked using leaves and wood from
Stand25, as a “freestyle Hungarian kitchen”. restaurants. And if you visit on Fridays and the pimento tree, on which allspice
They’re known for their masterfully prepared Saturdays you’ll find cholent on the menu. berries grow.
goulash. HUF 3,200 (£7.40) stand25.hu HUF 4,200 (£9.70) rosenstein.hu Allspice is the star ingredient in
dishes such as Jamaican jerk, in
which its sweet, woody, peppery
qualities shine through. But in
other Caribbean recipes, it takes a
supporting role, bolstering flavour
and adding warmth — whether it’s a
sprinkle in escovitch fish, or a dusting
in sweet bread.
Beyond the Caribbean, it can be
found in dishes across the globe, in
everything from Swedish meatballs
and Scandinavian pickled herring
to American pumpkin pie and
Moroccan tagines — as well as in
chutneys and other condiments,
including ketchup. It’s also great
for sprucing up your favourites. If
you’re roasting sweet potato, try
sprinkling a little allspice over it. It
also works well with pumpkin and
squash, in place of nutmeg. And for
something completely different, try
it in a creamy coleslaw with chunks
of apple and shredded chicken.
For convenience I tend to
use ground allspice more often
than whole berries, but for a jerk
seasoning, I like to toast the berries,
then grind them withother spices. It’s
is such a special, layered spice, and
one I feel deserves more stage time.

N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO.U K / F O O D -T R AV EL 49
SPICES

GREEN
C A R DA MOM
S W EE T A N D V ER SAT I L E , T H I S S P I C E I S A S AT H OM E I N T E A O R A H OT
C H I C K EN D I S H A S I T I S I N A S W ED I S H B U N . WO R D S: A N J UM A N A N D

3 TO T RY
C A R DA MOM
C R E ATI O N S

1 Masala chai
The British in India brewed
tea in a pot, before adding milk
and sugar. Indians decided
instead to put it in a pan
along with ginger, cardamom,
cinnamon and cloves, and brew
Throughout my life, I’ve always been I use this spice often. I always add a couple it all together. It’s my liquid
immersed in the world of spices. Coming home of pods to my curries. It works with so many gold elixir.
from school, I was welcomed by their complex things, from red meats to vegetables and in
yet nuanced smells, each distinguishable and
unique. My chosen career then kept me close
to these magical ingredients as I explored
tomato-based and creamy sauces. Cardamom
forms a key part of India’s famed spice blend,
garam masala, which melts away into dishes,
2 Sindhi cardamom
chicken
While this delicious dish
Indian food. This cuisine is essentially a adding mystery and complexity to dishes. It does use other spices,
tapestry of regional cuisines, but the one thing works well with the delicate flavour of rice, and green cardamom dominates
uniting them all is a love of spice. when I was young, my mother often added a — although its sweetness is
Spices were woven into the fabric of Indian crushed pod to my hot milk. It’s somehow both balanced out by the edge of
food thousands of years ago for their medicinal revitalising and soothing. black pepper.
properties. But really, they’re prized for their But perhaps cardamom shines brightest in
flavour and how they transform ingredients
and elevate dishes. Many other cuisines use
spices, but nowhere is it used with the same
desserts away from other distractions. It’s the
vanilla of India, thanks to its complex flavour
and lack of bitterness (something unusual in
3 Carrot kheer
This is a dessert of
shredded carrots cooked
enthusiasm as India, and while the country spices). Of course, we’re not the only country in milk. Raisins and cashews
IMAGES: STOCKFOOD; GETTY

grows around 50 varieties, only a handful make using cardamom in this way — Scandinavians cooked in ghee are added
it into the nation’s spice tins. Green cardamom, use it extensively in their baking. However along with sugar and
one of my favourites, is one of them. it reached there, it stayed, and many Swedes cardamom powder. Chilled
Its heady fragrance breathes life into me consider cardamom to be a taste of home. overnight, it’s a delicious,
every morning as I sip my freshly made spiced Time to get cooking. Try my top three refreshing option.
tea. The flavour itself is a journey of herby notes, cardamom creations, from sweet carrot kheer
floral sweetness and a eucalyptus-like flavour. to masala chai.

50 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO.U K / F O O D -T R AV EL
SPICES

CINNA MON
B E S T K N OW N A S A D E S S ERT
I N G R ED I EN T, C I N N A MO N I S A L S O
K E Y TO S OM E O F T H E WO R L D ’ S
SAVO U RY S TA P L E S . H ER E A R E S I X O F
T H E B E S T. WO R D S: SA R A H B A R R EL L

Caldillo
Mexican cuisine sings with cinnamon, which
was introduced by Spanish colonists who,
in turn, got it from the Moors. At the heart
of dishes such as mole poblano sauce and
barbacoa (slow-roasted marinated lamb), it
also balances the meaty umami and spicy
green chilies of caldillo (a beef soup-stew)
when combined with sugar and oranges for the
dish’s topping.

Khichidi
For this South Asian home-cooked comfort
food, a stick of cinnamon is tempered in
ghee or oil with turmeric, cumin seeds and
ginger, then added to lentils and rice, ideally in
a pressure cooker. The fragrant warmth of the
cinnamon — contrasting with the fresh mint,
yoghurt and lime juice that tops the dish
— leaves kichidi in a delightful limbo,
somewhere between dal and rice pudding.

Pastitsio
If you thought lasagne was indulgent, Greece’s
own layered pasta bake involves both a cheesy
bechamel and a cinnamon-spiked ragu, rich
with red wine and a hint of cloves, which gives
this dish its distinctive personality. For the
punchiest pastitsio, grate cinnamon from a
stick, or add it whole to the meat sauce as its
simmers low and slow, removing before baking.

Harira
Zesty and fragrant, this Moroccan soup is
packed with tomatoes, ginger and fresh
herbs. Chickpeas and lentils are given depth
and warmth by the cinnamon, which is
added (freshly grated or whole) as the soup
simmers in a pressure cooker or stock pot.
Rice and diced chicken, lamb or beef add the
calories required during Ramadan, when it’s a
preferred recipe for breaking fast.

Kai palo
This salty-sweet broth, redolent with cinnamon
and topped with slices of pork belly and boiled
egg, is beloved of Thai school canteens, home
Cinnamon sticks
cooks and food markets alike. Cinnamon sticks,
From left: Anjum Anand; broken up, are added to a spice bag with star
Scandinavian cardamom anise, cloves, coriander seeds and Sichuan
buns; masala chai, spiced with peppercorns. This then simmers in the stock
ginger, cardamom and more with the slow-cooked pork.

N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO.U K / F O O D -T R AV EL 51
COFFEE FOR
YOUR TEA TIME.

START BREWING!
NOSTALGIABREW.COM @NOSTALGIABREW
EXCEPTIONAL COFFEE FROM SUNNY CALIFORNIA
SPICES

Spicy chilli French

bean mapo tofu
S E RV E S : 2 TA K E S : 1 8 M I N S

INGREDIENTS
1 tbsp cornflour
1 tsp Sichuan peppercorns
1 tbsp rapeseed oil
2 garlic cloves, peeled and finely
chopped
2.5cm piece of ginger, peeled and
finely grated
1 red chilli, deseeded and
finely chopped
200g fine French beans, trimmed
and sliced into 1cm chunks
200g firm tofu, drained and sliced
into 1.5cm cubes
1 tbsp chilli bean paste
1 tbsp Shaoxing rice wine or
dry sherry
200ml cold vegetable stock
1 tbsp tamari or low-sodium light
soy sauce
1 tsp Chinkiang black rice vinegar
2 spring onions, trimmed, sliced
cooked jasmine rice, to serve

METHOD
Mix the cornflour with 2 tbsp
water to make a slurry. Set aside.
Place a frying pan over a
low-medium heat and add the
Sichuan peppercorns. Dry toast
for 30 secs, shaking the pan to
ensure they don’t burn, until
they start to release a citrussy

S I C H UA N
aroma. Remove from the pan
and grind to a powder using a
pestle and mortar. Set aside.
Place a wok on a high heat
until smoking, then add the

PEPPERS
rapeseed oil. Swirl it, then add
garlic, ginger and chilli; stir for a
few secs. Add the French beans,
stir-fry briefly, then add the tofu
and toss for a few secs more.
Push the ingredients to one
side of the wok. Add the chilli
bean sauce and rice wine or
O F T H E M A N Y S I C H UA N D I S H E S , N O N E S H OWC A S E T H E L E MO N Y H E AT O F sherry to the other side of the
S I C H UA N PEPPER S B E T T ER T H A N M A P O TO F U. WO R D S: C H I N G - H E H UA N G wok and cook for a few secs.
Add vegetable stock, stir
and bring to the boil. Reduce
Mapo tofu is the dish that best demonstrates heaven. They also add a crunchy texture and a the heat and simmer for 1 min.
the importance of Sichuan pepper. Without it, sweet flavour that complements the spices. Add the tamari or light soy
it would lose that addictive numbing sensation The dish is perfect served with plain sauce and black rice vinegar,
and mild citrussy aroma. To get the most out jasmine rice to mop up the layers of flavours. then pour in the cornflour slurry
of the Sichuan pepper, dry toast it in a pan first And, if you’re not afraid of heat, skip step two and simmer for 1 min, stirring as
to release its aroma and oils, then grind the and add the whole peppercorns straight after the sauce thickens.
IMAGE: TAMIN JONES

peppers finely either using a pestle and mortar the fresh chilli — otherwise a pinch is enough Serve with rice, a garnish of
or a coffee grinder for an even finer texture. as a garnish for a more subtle hit of spice. spring onions and a large pinch
In this version the French beans are tossed of the ground Sichuan pepper.
in a savoury chilli bean paste, earthy black rice Recipe taken from Asian Green by Ching-He
vinegar and light soy sauce for pure umami Huang (Kyle Books, £20).

N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO.U K / F O O D -T R AV EL 53
SAFFRON
SA L LY FR A N C I S I S R E S U R R EC T I N G A F O RG OT T EN B R I T I S H T R A D I T I O N BY
G ROW I N G T H I S P R EC I O U S S P I C E I N N O R F O L K . WO R D S: FA R I DA Z E Y N A LOVA

When Sally Francis was a university student in grown saffron to the Low Countries — and that
1997, she asked her parents for a saffron plant she’d therefore inadvertently resurrected a
for her birthday. She planted it at the family long-lost industry.
smallholding near Burnham Market, on the It’s believed saffron originated from Crete,
north coast of Norfolk, but that first harvest whose mild winters and dry summers create
only produced a teaspoon’s worth of saffron. ideal growing conditions. Today, Iran, India,
After buying more plants, the years that Spain and Greece are the main producers,
followed proved more and more fruitful. She with Iran responsible for the vast majority of
shared the saffron among family and friends, the world’s supply. So, how does a tiny farm in
and the surplus was sold at a local craft fair, Norfolk prevail against the inclement English
which proved hugely successful. By 2009, she weather to produce Grade I saffron?
had enough of the spice to launch a business, It’s to do with “replicating the climate of
Norfolk Saffron, producing an extra-strong, Crete as best as we can with the conditions we
Grade I variety, grown in one of the most have,” says Sally, declining to elaborate any
surprising parts of the world. further on her commercially sensitive secrets.
“I’m a botanist, so plants are my passion,” But Norfolk being one of the driest areas in the
Sally says, from the farm that’s been in her country is certainly a factor, she adds.
family since 1934. “I had low expectations for The purple-flowered saffron crocus likes to
saffron because I’d read that although it used tear up the floral rulebook — it buds during
to be grown in Britain in the Middle Ages, the autumn and winter (as opposed to spring and
climate is all wrong now so it can’t be done.” summer) and becomes dormant in the summer
Around 400 years ago, the UK was a hotspot (rather than winter). A typical day during
From left: Sally and her mother for saffron production. When Sally researched harvest, which takes place between October
Jill removing the stigmas from the subject, she was astonished to discover and November and lasts around four to six
the saffron flowers; harvesting that the seaside port she can see from her field, weeks, sees Sally start gathering the flowers as
the saffron Burnham Overy Staithe, used to ship locally early as 7am.

54 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO.U K / F O O D -T R AV EL
SPICES

Naz Deravian’s should take 20-25 mins. You’ll feel

Persian halva like it won’t ever change colour,
S E RV E S : 8 TA K E S : 4 0 M I N S but it will — so be patient and
don’t be tempted to turn up the
INGREDIENTS heat! The colour of the flour will
large pinch of saffron strands influence the colour of the halva,
150g caster sugar so toast it a little longer for a
80ml rose water deeper golden-brown.
½ tsp ground cardamom Keeping the flour over the heat,
120g plain white flour, sifted pour in the melted ghee. Stir well
160g ghee to combine, until the mixture is
decorative toppings, such as flaked smooth with no lumps. At arm’s
almonds, chopped pistachios and length, add your syrup — it will hiss
dried rose petals (optional) and spit so be careful. Very quickly
stir the mixture for 5-8 mins, until it
METHOD thickens and comes together with
Grind the saffron strands to a the consistency of a soft dough.
fine powder using a pestle and Lift the pan off the heat, holding
mortar. You can add a small pinch each side of the pan, and roll the
of sugar here to help with the halva back and forth for a few
grinding, if needed. Set aside. minutes until it forms a crescent
Add the sugar and 180ml water shape. This helps set the texture.
to a small saucepan and place over Spoon the halva onto a flat
a medium-high heat. Bring to the plate and smooth it out into a
boil for 3-5 mins, stirring to dissolve round. Add decorations, if you like.
the sugar, then remove from the You could also pinch the edges,
heat. Add the rose water, ground like a pie crust, or indent the
saffron and cardamom, and stir the edges and the top using a spoon
syrup well to combine. Set aside. to create a wavy surface. Set aside
“The morning is best,” she says. “That’s one Add the ghee to another small to cool and serve either at room
of the factors that influences quality.” Having saucepan and place over a low temperature or chilled from the
gathered the largest buds — those on the heat until it melts. Set aside. fridge; scoop with a spoon or cut
cusp of opening — Sally spends the next few Place the flour in a medium-size into bite-size pieces.
hours performing the fiddly task of removing saucepan over a medium heat. Stir
the stigmas from the flowers, helped by her constantly, taking care not to burn Taken from Bottom of the Pot,
mother Jill and friend Mary. She then places the flour, until it releases its nutty by Naz Deravian (£28.99, St
them in a dryer she had specially made. The aroma and turns golden — this Martin’s Press)
result? Threads of vibrant, potent saffron
that’s consistently Grade I — the highest level.
“I believe it’s the only spice that provides
flavour, colour and aroma,” Sally says. “It’s
so precious because a lot of effort goes into
producing even just one gram.”
“Our saffron is as strong as the best from
anywhere in the world”, she adds, noting that
the Norfolk kind is a little sweeter than most,
which is due to the UK climate. “A lot of recipes
are written with low-grade saffron in mind
— they ask for one gram to make a loaf but if
you used ours, you wouldn’t be able to eat it
— it’d be way too strong!”
Saffron is used in a variety of dishes
around the world, from paellas and risottos
to ice creams and soups, but Sally’s personal
favourite is a saffron brioche she found in an
IMAGES: CHRIS RIDLEY; ERIC WOLFINGER

18th-century recipe book, which she makes

using broken threads left over from the
harvest. Her farm, less than two acres in size,
isn’t open to visitors, so she sells her saffron
— as well as products including saffron flour
and liqueurs — via her online shop. She has
plans to expand her range. You could say she’s
breathing a new lease of life into this long-
forgotten British spice, one bright red thread at
a time. norfolksaffron.co.uk

N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO.U K / F O O D -T R AV EL 55
SPICES

FIVE OF TH E B E ST
1 Dubai Spice Souk, Dubai,

S PIC E M ARKETS
United Arab Emirates
Powders and petals in hues from
chartreuse to crimson are stacked in
tall baskets like fat pencils down the
alleyways of Dubai Spice Souk, part
CO LO U R F U L , S OM E T I M E S C H AOT I C A N D A LWAYS ATMO S P H ER I C , of Deira’s market area. It’s separated
S P I C E M A R K E T S A R E O F T EN T H E H I G H P O I N T O F A C I T Y B R E A K . from Downtown’s shiny, high-rise
WO R D S: EL L A B U C H A N modernity by Dubai Creek, yet is just
as dizzying as the Emirate’s trademark
forest of skyscrapers. Don’t be afraid
to ask questions — or to haggle.
X FAC TO R : Dried black limes are
a speciality.

2 Mercado Benito Juárez,

Oaxaca, Mexico
This covered market sells more than
simply spices; the vendors here offer
everything from tamales and textiles
to mezcal and moles. There’s plenty
to draw both the eye and nose, not
least the array of dried chillies, from
ancho to the native pasilla de Oaxaca.
X FAC TO R : Mole sauces showcase
the local spices at their complex best.

3 Rahba Kedima,
Marrakech, Morocco
The souks of the city’s walled
Medina are intoxicating — none
more so than Spice Square, as this
plaza is commonly known. Stalls
offer everything from star anise to
cinnamon, while in the centre of the
square, people sell anything from
argan oil to plant-based cosmetics.
X FAC TO R : The aromatic spice
mixes are particularly good.

4 Mısır Çarşısı,
Istanbul, Turkey
While the vaulted roof of Mısır Çarşısı
— also known as the Egyptian Bazaar
— is eye-catching, the heaps of spices
that fill the stalls compete for your
attention. And amid the strings of
dried chillies and hills of garam masala
are baskets overflowing with dried
fruits and Turkish delight.
X FAC TO R : This was the final stop
for caravans on the Silk Route.

5 Khari Baoli, Delhi, India

In the labyrinthine lanes of
this vast spice market in Old
Delhi, the scenes and scents that
reveal themselves can be almost
overwhelming. The air here is thick
with the fragrances of cardamom,
cinnamon and curry powders, which
IMAGES: GETTY

are heaped in huge sacks. It’s hectic,

Dubai Spice Souk, part heady and utterly hypnotic.
of Deira’s market area X FAC TO R : The market is the largest
of its kind in Asia.

56 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO.U K / F O O D -T R AV EL
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The art
of the wir t

High in Austria’s Alpine Tyrol region, chefs and wirts

— a cross between innkeepers, hosts and landlords
— welcome weary walkers to their mountain huts for
hearty meals and warm hospitality
WORDS: TOM BURSON. PHOTOGR APHS: CL AR A TUM A

58 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO.U K / F O O D -T R AV EL
AU S T R I A

“Further, further, further!

Only three more hours,”
yells chef Martin Sieberer. We’re at an altitude of over tiny path that leads you to it — lingonberries everywhere.
6,500ft, hiking through sun-drenched alpine meadows Sometimes you’ll think there’s a dead person lying under
to Almstüberl, an almhütte (mountain hut) where, for the shrubs, but really, they’re just picking berries.”
the summer, Martin is curating the menu. Beef, speck Several hours later, damp with sweat, we arrive
and vegetables infused with mountain herbs is just the at Almstüberl. The tiny timber cabin, overlooking
kind of hearty dish you’d hope for in this part of Austria, colonnades of pine and distant, snow-capped peaks,
and it’ll be my first meal on the Kulinarische Jakobsweg, has long served as a refuge for hikers in need of a good
a series of six challenging hikes across the Paznaun meal, a quick rest and incredible views. In the kitchen,
Valley. All of them lead to these rustic huts, where, every Martin prepares herb-roasted beef with roast veg and
summer, highly regarded chefs transform the usually a potato riebler (a local speciality akin to a loose potato
simple gastronomy served here into something closer to pancake or potato crumble). Each component of the
haute cuisine. dish, from the carrots to the butter, red wine, meat and
“You have to sweat if you want to eat,” shouts Martin. freshly foraged wildflowers, comes from the surrounding
Wearing a checked shirt and intricately embroidered mountains. I can smell the dish’s earthy scent, and as
lederhosen, the chef — who’s garnered numerous I bite in, the aromatics intensify. The beef is gamey,
accolades, including a Michelin star for his Ischgl thanks to the muscles the cows built up ambling along the
restaurant Paznaunerstube (he also owns Heimatbühne mountainside, but also herbaceous and sweetly perfumed.
restaurant, in the same ski resort village) and Austrian To Martin, a man who’s spent his whole life in
Chef of the Year in 2000. Born in Kitzbühel, Martin is a Tyrol, curating a menu up here is an honour. These
Previous pages, from left:
child of the Alps, at home in the peaks of Tyrol. As we huts are an Austrian institution; for around 2,000
Benjamin Parth’s buttermilk
wind our way up the trails, he pauses every so often to years, cattle farmers have spent summers living up and sorrel dish at Stüva
pluck wildflowers and wild herbs with childlike glee, here while their herds graze the mountain pastures. restaurant in Ischgl; 113-year-
saving them to cook with later. This results in world-class milks, meats and cheeses, old Friedrichshafener Hütte
“This is augentrost, a herb with which you make a which the resident farmers will offer as tasters to anyone
little tincture and put it on the eyes to calm them. It’s passing by — generally for free, although tips are Clockwise from top left:
medicinal,” he explains. Alpine rose, he tells me, can be warmly welcomed. Martin Sieberer meets local

used to make a jelly to serve with cheese. He also shows wrangler Serafin Siebele
and the Highland cattle at
me yarrow, chives and various types of clove. Ever-changing cheeses
the mountain farm where
“You can suck on the flower, and it tastes like honey,” This way of life is routine for Hermann Huber, who’s
he sources his beef; Martin
Martin says, proffering some yellow sweet clover for me to something of a celebrity in the Paznaun Valley. Part
picks yarrow; Martin gathers
taste. Initially, all I get is grass — and more grass — until chef, part hotelier, part cheesemaker, he’s the king fresh herbs on the mountain;
at last, a hint of sugary sweetness. Martin points to some of Paznauner dairy. His Aschenputtel weichkäse roast beef with rösti and
far-off shrubs. “There, where the trees stop, you have a (Cinderella soft cheese) was named among the best vegetables, which Martin
patch with the best lingonberries in the world. There’s a cheeses in Austria for 2021 at the Wieselburger Messe created for Almstüberl

60 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO.U K / F O O D -T R AV EL
AU S T R I A
AU S T R I A

agricultural fair. His almkäse (a hard, rind-covered to look as good as it tastes. “Don’t even bother serving
cheese) and two of his other cheeses, meanwhile, a cheese that’s not pretty,” he says. “When cutting in,
received near-perfect scores from the judges at the latest it should have two holes, nice and round, no cracks
International Mountain Cheese Olympics. Hermann or fissures.” Full marks on that front. From there, he
even won over Britain’s Guild of Fine Food in 2017, stresses mouthfeel, which for the almkäse means a rich,
which gave him a gold at the World Cheese Awards for creamy, almost melty quality. Finally, there’s taste: fatty
his unusual Zwergerl, a semi-soft cow’s-milk cheese and herbaceous. There are hints of grass and wildflowers
whose production involves being bathed in seven-year- and fresh, raw milk. Hermann notes that his cheese,
old water. (Hermann believes this adds flavour, and it is like the Alps, “is a living thing, with microorganisms at
indeed a real umami bomb.) work... Because it’s living, it’s ever-changing.”
A visit to Faulbrunnalm, Hermann’s farm and It’s the variable nature of this landscape that makes
almhütte, is the next stop on my gastronomic pilgrimage. hiking through it so thrilling. The Kulinarische
It’s just a few peaks away from Martin’s place, and by Jakobsweg trails begin on the dark forest floors of the
gondola the journey is easy, but I choose the hard route: valley, amid fallen pines and fungi. Yellow signs lead
an eight-mile hiking trail that begins in the village of the way upwards, until the trees shrink and make way
Galtür. It takes me alongside turquoise Lake Kopssee, for grassy knolls. Along the way I spot deer, falcons and
before heading up towards the rocky, cloud-coated seemingly hundreds of cows amid the edelweiss, berries
ledges of Breitspitze mountain, where the rain somehow and trumpeting blue and purple petals of gentian. Lucky
manages to slap me from both above and below as I hikers might also catch a glimpse of mountains goats,
stumble over slippery slabs of stone. boars or even rare wild cats.
I hear Hermann’s grazing cows before I spot his “It’s mystic,” says Benjamin Parth, head chef at
place, shrouded as it is in cloud. This is where Hermann award-winning Stüva restaurant in Ischgl. He’s garnered
produces his cheeses, from the ash-coated soft cheeses attention as one of the most exciting young chefs not just
to an 18-month-old bergkäse (a hard local variety) he in Tyrol but in the whole of Austria, having earned the
has nicknamed ‘Corona cheese’, because he made it country’s Gault & Millau Chef of the Year title in 2019.
during lockdown. There’s also a one-year-old mountain At his establishment in town, set menus start at around
cheese, others infused with saffron or Italian truffle, €100 (£84) and contain exquisite dishes such as a tender
and a pungent three-year-old hard type, which, while scallop carpaccio with tuna tartare and a spoonful of
delicious, “you can only eat a small amount at a time,” caviar, or Arctic char with gentian foam and potato. The
Hermann laments. latter is Benjamin’s signature dish — he’s one of the few
“Cheese needs time and lots of love,” Hermann says. chefs in the world cooking with the supremely bitter root
He produces about 30,000kg a year (much of which goes of the gentian plant, which can be found in the valley
directly to chefs), all by hand. He offers me a taste of his but is protected by EU law, with only a handful of people
Paznauner almkäse, which, Hermann explains, needs allowed to forage for it.

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AU S T R I A

C U LI N A RY
SOUVENIRS

Enzian schnapps
Aromatic and bitter,
this schnapps and
its namesake plant
(‘gentian’, in English)
are synonymous
with this region.
Gentian thrives at high
altitude, but as it takes
10 years to blossom,
only a handful of
families in Galtür are
allowed to forage it.

Paznauner almkäse
Produced by only 13
cheesemakers in the
region, this cheese
is made to a precise
set of rules, including
that there must be no
additives and that all
milk used must come
View over the valley on the hike up to Almstüberl
from the makers’ own
From left: Hermann Huber checks the rind on his cows, which must eat
mountain cheese (bergkäse); slices of Hermann’s hard only Alpine grasses.
cheese on a plate; hikers enjoying lunch at Almstüberl
Tyrolean speck
The star of Tyrolean
charcuterie boards,
this intensely flavoured
ham is cold-smoked and
cured in the alpine air for
five months.

Tyrolean honey
Visit a bienenladen (‘bee
shop’) or honigladen
(‘honey shop’) to buy
one of the many local
varieties of honey,
such as ‘Alpine rose’,
‘dandelion’, ‘apple
flower’, ‘forest’ and
‘linden’, as well as a
creamy version made
from spring flowers.

Spreads
Delis stock an array of
locally made sauces,
spreads and condiments,
including wildflower
pesto and herb-filled
mustards. Look out for
chef Martin Sieberer’s
creations, such as
‘Schwarzes Geld’, a mix
of mustard seed, apple
juice and charcoal.

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DISTHTEIYLELAR 2021
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AU S T R I A

Benjamin Parth’s porcini in a rösti ‘coat’

with paprika sauerkraut
Middle Eastern flavours give a modern twist to this Austrian classic.
You can prep the sauerkraut and chive sauce a few days ahead, which
intensifies the flavours. Gently reheat the sauerkraut before serving.
S E RV E S : 4 TA K E S : 1 H R 3 0 M I N S

INGREDIENTS 4 semi-dried cherry tomatoes

10 large porcini or parasol 10 white peppercorns
mushrooms, cleaned with a 5 juniper berries
damp cloth and sliced into 2-3 sprigs of thyme
halves 1 bay leaf
juice of 1 lemon 700ml tomato juice
3 large potatoes, peeled 1 potato (about 150g), peeled
vegetable or rapeseed oil, for and grated
shallow-frying
fresh alpine herbs (such as cress, F O R T H E C H I V E S AU C E
chives and parsley), to garnish 200g hummus
100ml extra-virgin olive oil
F O R T H E PA P R I K A 1 garlic clove, finely chopped
S AU E R K R AU T juice of ½ lemon
2 tbsp rapeseed oil 1 tsp ras el hanout
2 red peppers, peeled and 1 tsp ground cumin
roughly chopped 1 tsp tahini
1 onion, peeled and finely diced 2 pinches of paprika
1 garlic clove, peeled and finely Tabasco, to taste
diced bunch of chives, finely sliced
200g fresh sauerkraut

METHOD
First make the paprika sauerkraut. Add the rapeseed oil to
a saucepan and place over a medium heat. Add the pepper,
onion and garlic, and sauté for 1 min.
Add the sauerkraut, semi-dried tomatoes, peppercorns, Benjamin is just about the last chef you’d expect to
juniper berries, thyme sprigs and bay leaf to the pan; season encounter 6,890ft up at the stone built, 113-year-old
with salt and freshly ground white pepper. Pour in the tomato Friedrichshafener Hütte. Furthermore, in a region known
juice and bring to the boil, then add the grated potato and for its beef, cheese, butter and speck, it’s something of a
simmer for about 1 hr, until most of the liquid has evaporated. surprise to find him serving a vegan meal. But that’s just
Remove from the heat and discard the peppercorns, juniper Benjamin’s style. “I wanted to try something different,
berries, thyme sprigs and bay leaf. Set aside. something modern, something that’s distinct from the
For the chive sauce, put all the ingredients except the typical cuisine at the huts,” he says. “But I still wanted the
chives into a small bowl, add a pinch of salt and mix well to cuisine to be hearty and traditional. It has to fit the hut.”
combine. Stir through the chives and set aside. His main course — forest mushrooms with potato
Place the halved mushrooms into a bowl, add the lemon rösti, paprika-spiced sauerkraut and chive sauce — is a
juice, some salt and freshly ground white pepper, and gently contemporary take on the dishes his grandmother would
toss to coat. cook. “It’s about bringing in familiar flavours, while also
Cut the potatoes lengthwise into thin slices using a exposing guests to something entirely unfamiliar,” he tells
mandoline (if you don’t have one, use a knife, carefully). Then, me. The dish is served in epic proportions, far larger than
using a knife, cut the slices into fine strips. Add the potato to the bite-sized plates Benjamin prepares back in town, and
a bowl and toss with salt and pepper, then squeeze well to in a presentation style clearly bereft of tweezers. Three
remove excess moisture. giant slabs of porcini mushroom hug the salty, satisfying
Portion half of the potato into thin 10cm patties on kitchen potato pancake, stuffed with parasol mushrooms. The
paper — you should get four in total. Divide the mushrooms hearty helping of sauerkraut that accompanies it is made
between the patties, then cover each patty with a thin layer to his grandmother’s recipe and infused with red pepper
of the remaining potato. Press down firmly using a sheet of and tomato juice; beyond the usual tang it’s also slightly
kitchen paper to seal. spicy, with the chives enhancing the alpine aromatics.
Pour the oil into a large frying pan, generously covering the Benjamin is quick to mention this dish isn’t the type of
base of the pan. Place over a medium-high heat. In batches, Above: Benjamin thing that would be served at his restaurant, but rather an
Parth’s dish for
add the rösti and fry for around 5 mins per side, or until golden interpretation fit for a walker — and so it is.
Friedrichshafener
brown. Transfer to kitchen paper to drain off the excess oil.
Hütte: forest
Spoon the warm paprika sauerkraut on to plates, top with
mushrooms with
Overflowing with gemütlichkeit
the mushroom rösti and serve with the chive sauce and some potato rösti, While I’m lucky enough to meet several of the chefs
herbs to garnish. paprika-spiced taking part in the Kulinarische Jakobsweg, most visitors
sauerkraut and don’t encounter them face to face. Aside from those chefs
chive sauce leading the hikes that take place every weekend over the

N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO.U K / F O O D -T R AV EL 65
AU S T R I A

From left: A classic

kaiserschmarrn
for dessert at
Almstüberl; Heike
Mayrhofer, who
runs Almstüberl, in
front of her hut

ESSENTIALS

GETTING THERE
& AROU ND
Travel by rail from
London St Pancras
International to
Landeck-Zams,
with four changes,
in around 13 hours.
Alternatively,
EasyJet flies
from Gatwick
to Innsbruck, 45
minutes by train
from Landeck-
Zams. From
here, local towns
including Ischgl
can be reached
by bus, rental car
or taxi.
A Silvretta ski
pass offers access
to buses and
gondolas, as well
as some spas
summer, most simply create dishes to be served at their but from a valley in Ötztal, around 30 miles from here. and climbing
almhütte or restaurant, but aren’t necessarily involved in So how did she come to be running this particular opportunities.
the day-to-day cookery of those dishes, or in meeting and almhütte? “I lost a bet,” she says. “I don’t remember Certain hotels offer
greeting guests. Heike Mayrhofer, however, couldn’t be the exact bet, but I lost, and my punishment was to these to guests for

more involved. One of the true faces of this culinary event, work at an après ski tent up here. I was here for not free. raileurope.
com easyjet.com
Heike is the backbone of her hut, Almstüberl. Moreover, even two weeks before the mayor offered me the hut.
she’s the only female wirt (an all-encompassing term for Pure chance.”
W H E R E T O S TAY
innkeeper, host, publican and landlord) in the Paznaun. For hours, I watch in awe as Heike and Jessica sling
Hotel Trofana
For almost a decade, Heike has spent eight months of each plates to hungry patrons — bowls of beef broth with Royal has doubles
year living high up above Kappl, at 6,890ft. speckknödel (bacon dumplings), herb-roasted beef and from €280 (£238),
While most of the huts are fairly austere in the cheesy mountain classic käsespätzle. I tuck into half board.
appearance, Almstüberl overflows with gemütlichkeit the broth, which is remarkably concentrated in flavour, Alpenhotel
(warmth and geniality). Rose-filled flower pots and while remaining light and thin, and the meaty, savoury Ischglerhof has
cutesy iron knick-knacks decorate the wooden terrace flavours dance with the smokiness of the dumplings. doubles from €110

that overlooks the valley. At the front entrance hangs When I ask Heike about the Kulinarische Jakobsweg, (£94), half board.
Both are in Ischgl.
a retired pair of Heike’s old lederhosen, which she’s she tells me she likes that it brings people to the huts
trofana-royal.at
fashioned into a vase. “I had those for 30 years,” she says. who normally wouldn’t come up here, and exposes
ischglerhof.at
Together with her daughter, Jessica, the two embody the them to the cooking of famous chefs they wouldn’t
dying art of the wirt — which I’m thankful for. My ascent otherwise be able to visit — or couldn’t afford to H OW T O D O I T
to Almstüberl had been, like most journeys in this part visit. With a wink, she points to a Gault & Millau Inghams has a
of Austria, beset by temperamental weather. When I’d (the prestigious French restaurant guide) sticker on week’s half board
set off, it was 20C, but within an hour, the temperature Almstüberl’s front door. “After nine years, my food’s at Hotel Jägerhof
had dropped to around 2C and visibility to a few feet as already known for being delicious,” she says. “We’ve in Ischgl from
an icy mist descended. This was summertime in Austria proven ourselves,” adds Jessica. £839 in summer.

but it may as well have been January in Newcastle. Yet, As I prepare to leave, Heike has prepared an extra dish, Includes flights
from Birmingham,
on my shivering arrival at the hut, Heike comes out with her famous kaiserschmarrn with homemade lingonberry
a guided walk and
a hot-water bottle, coffee and Norwegian carrot cake, jam and apple sauce for dipping. It’s incredible — fluffy
daily packed lunch.
made by her son-in-law. pieces of shredded, fried pancake bathed in butter and
inghams.co.uk
As hikers seek shelter from the weather (dozens arrive powdered sugar. I leave completely stuffed, bordering
within half an hour), Heike welcomes each with the on comatose. What I need is to walk it off — and with the MORE INFO
same vivaciousness — be it in German, English or Dutch. mountain trails stretching out ahead of me, I’m in the paznaun-ischgl.
Perhaps surprisingly, she’s not actually from Paznaun perfect place to do just that. com

66 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO.U K / F O O D -T R AV EL
Must be of legal drinking age.
www.siempretequila.com [email protected]
DECONSTRUCT

GUMBO
With influences ranging from Native American to African and ingredients
that might include seafood and sausages, or occasionally eggs and greens,
Louisiana’s beloved state dish is notoriously hard to pin down

WORDS: SAR A ROAHEN. PHOTOGR APHS: ANT DUNCAN

F O O D S T Y L I S T: A MY K I N N E A R . P R O P S T Y L I S T: M E G A N T H O M S O N

Gumbo is a dish that resists definition. For Perhaps predictably, gumbo’s provenance South. This trio of influences is most clearly
every statement of truth about it, there is as murky as its broth. US author Mary observed in gumbo’s characteristic thickening
exists an opposing statement of truth. It’s Randolph’s 1824 book, The Virginia Housewife: agents: roux, okra and filé. Nearly every
sometimes served as a soup course, while at Or Methodical Cook, is the first cookbook to gumbo contains at least one of these (some
other times it’s the centrepiece of a meal. It’s include a recipe for a dish called ‘gumbo’ incorporate all three), and these thickenings
casual, gather-around-the-pot party food, yet — essentially stewed okra with butter. It offer further clues as to the dish’s origins.
it’s also formal, worthy of holiday tables and wasn’t until the turn of the 20th century, Many historical accounts offer
fine china. It’s always served with rice, except however, that written recipes began to reflect bouillabaisse, the Provençal fish stew, as
when it comes with potato salad or cornbread. what the dish looks and tastes like today. evidence for France’s influence on gumbo.
The contradictions don’t end there. The From the early days of colonisation, But while seafood does make its way into
official dish of Louisiana, gumbo is served Louisiana has been a cultural melting pot, gumbo pots, that’s where the resemblance to
in practically every restaurant in the state and to this day gumbo remains a flexible, bouillabaisse ends. Rather, France’s obvious
with a locally themed menu. But for many constantly evolving medium: it adapts to contribution to gumbo is roux — flour cooked
Louisianians, this soup (or is it a stew? Many whatever flavours and ingredients successive in hot fat (such as canola oil or lard) until it
would argue it’s somewhere in between) is waves of immigrants bring to it. The Cajuns reaches the chef’s preferred shade of brown.
strictly to be made and eaten at home. It can be (people of French lineage, who arrived from The darker the roux, the richer its flavour and
seafood-heavy or meaty, fired up with cayenne Canada in the 1750s) claim it as their own, the thinner the broth; the lighter the roux,
pepper or subtly spiced, thin and delicate or as do the Creoles (descendants of early the less prominent the flavour and the thicker
viscous and gravy-like. immigrants to Louisiana, often of mixed race), the broth.
These varying ideas about the perfect gumbo and even the Sicilians, Italians, Germans and The late Creole chef Leah Chase, the
stir up light-hearted debate in Louisiana and Irish claim they’ve had a hand in it. owner of New Orleans’ Dooky Chase’s
along the Gulf Coast, where the dish has for Three main cultural influences come to the Restaurant, used to liken the colour of
centuries been as much a part of life as swamps fore, however, both in the historical record and her roux to the caramel shade of her skin.
and mosquitoes. But while gumbo refuses to be in the bowl: French colonialism in the 1800s The broth in her Creole gumbo, whose
tied to a single recipe, it’s inarguably a dish of and the subsequent African slave culture, plus production her descendants now oversee, is a
community: it has cross-cultural significance, a the Native American cultures that predated mellow backdrop for an assortment of other
relevance on every Louisiana table. both of these influences in the American ingredients, such as shrimp, crab, ham, hot

N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO.U K / F O O D -T R AV EL 69
D E C O N S T RU C T

sausage, bay and thyme. Meanwhile, the cooks sautéing it with the ‘holy trinity’ of seasoning
at the Seafood Palace, in Lake Charles, near vegetables: celery, onion and green pepper.
the Texan border in southwestern Louisiana, This combination is to Louisianan cooking
take the roux for their deep, dark seafood what mirepoix is to French cuisine. What’s left,
gumbo to almost black, making it the gumbo’s Frank says, is “just the base essence flavour of
standout taste. the ground sassafras”.
Africa’s contribution to gumbo, meanwhile, Clearly, gumbo is something of a moveable
runs deep, most prominently with okra, feast, with many chefs and home cooks
whose seeds — according to legend — came adding their own signature twists to the dish.
to Louisiana in the pockets of African slaves. The Indian restaurateur Arvinder Vilkhu,
Whatever the truth of its journey from of Saffron NOLA, in New Orleans, serves
Africa to the American South, okra found a version accented with ginger, turmeric,
friendly growing conditions in Louisiana’s coriander, curry leaf and Kashmiri chilli.
subtropical climate. Like roux, okra both Elsewhere in the city, at Cochon, co-owner and
flavours and thickens a gumbo. It tastes grassy chef Donald Link — a Louisiana native — often
and vegetal, and cooking it with moisture serves a black-eyed pea and pork gumbo made
releases a thick, sticky juice. In the glossary with collard or mustard greens. At first glance
to her cookbook, The Welcome Table: African- this seems to buck tradition (neither legumes
American Heritage Cooking, culinary historian nor greens are common gumbo ingredients),
Jessica B Harris notes that ‘quingumbo’ is the yet it aligns with the Louisiana spirit of making
name for okra in Bantu languages, spoken do with whatever is available — providing it
in the southern half of Africa. On the basis tastes good. Home cooks have been known to
of gumbo’s possible etymology, many like Roux can make or break a throw in anything from canned sausages to
to insist, therefore, that okra is an essential hard-boiled eggs.
ingredient. It’s a compelling argument, but in gumbo. For an alternative With so many variations, how does one
practice, many worthy gumbos don’t feature way to create a strong, dark distinguish a gumbo from any other soup or
it at all. stew? In addition to the thickeners and the
Filé powder, the cured and ground leaves
roux, combine oil and flour ‘holy trinity’, herbs and spices play a key role.
of the sassafras tree, is the third thickening over a high heat on the stove Garlic, thyme, bay, and black, red and white
agent of cultural import. Some scholars peppercorns are typical additions, while basil,
believe Choctaw Indians were the first people
before placing in the oven oregano and paprika may also season the pot.
to cook with filé powder, which Louisianians at 175C, 155C fan. Stir every While Louisiana has a reputation for spicy food,
often call ‘gumbo filé’. Freshly ground filé has
bright, spicy, lemon-tinged notes that stand
30 minutes until it turns gumbo is more likely to be highly seasoned,
meaning layers of flavour, rather than fieriness.
up to — and balance out — gumbo’s heavier chocolate brown Those who enjoy a lot of spice tend to add hot
tones. Typically added by the chef at the end of sauces, such as Tabasco, at the table instead.
cooking, or sprinkled over the dish by the eater, In oral histories, restaurants and the bowl
filé’s alchemy thickens gumbo to a stringy or itself, it’s clear: when it comes to gumbo,
ropy consistency that, depending on personal there are few hard-and-fast rules. It’s an
taste, is either essential or loathsome. exciting, expansive, constantly evolving
Frank Brigtsen, chef and co-owner of dish. As Scott Landry, a Louisiana-based
Brigtsen’s Restaurant in New Orleans, has ‘culinary entertainer’ who hosts on-stage
a trick for avoiding filé’s stringiness while cooking shows, put it in a 2007 interview: “One
preserving its taste. For his filé gumbo, he hundred Cajuns give you 150 recipes on how to
adds the powder at the very start of cooking, make gumbo.”

1972 1989
1721 1802 The US Senate adds The city of New
A small group of Germans Surgeon John Sibley pens Creole gumbo to its Iberia, Louisiana,
settles near New Orleans, the first written reference cafeteria menu, in honour hosts the first Annual
bringing with them the art to gumbo, describing it as of late Louisiana senator World Championship
of sausage-making ‘the food of every body’ Allen Ellender Gumbo Cookoff

TIMELINE

1719 1762 1824 1979

Slave ships begin arriving Louisiana is transferred The Virginia Housewife: Or Paul Prudhomme, a Cajun
in Louisiana, carrying rice from French to Spanish Methodical Cook, by Mary chef, opens K-Paul’s
and probably okra seeds, control, possibly leading Randolph, is the first book Louisiana Kitchen in New
along with knowledge of to the introduction of to include a gumbo recipe Orleans, taking dark-roux
how to grow them peppers to gumbo gumbos mainstream

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N g aU
Premium Meat

ngau.co.uk
D E C O N S T RU C T

Frank Brigtsen’s prawn and 225g crab meat (a mix of white and brown is best) the tomatoes and cook, still stirring, for 1-2
okra gumbo with andouille 250g shelled raw prawns mins. Remove from heat and set aside.
For this recipe from the chef-owner of cooked white rice, to serve Put the onion and celery into a large
Brigtsen’s Restaurant in New Orleans, you bowl and mix well. Heat the remaining 2
can either buy seafood stock or make your METHOD tbsp of olive oil in a large deep pan over a
own. For homemade, source fresh head- Heat oven to 175C, 155C fan, gas 3-4. Lay medium-high heat. Add half the onion-
on prawns, remove the heads and shells the sliced sausage on a shallow baking tray celery mixture and cook for 12-15 mins,
(reserving the meat for the gumbo), then and cook in the oven for 35-40 mins, until stirring now and then, until the onions are
put in a pot with 2L cold water. Bring to a edges turn brown. Set aside. caramelised. Add the remaining onion and
boil, simmer for 30 mins, then strain. Add the vegetable oil to a small, celery and continue to cook for 4-5 mins
S E RV E S : 6 TA K E S : 2 - 3 H R S heavy-based frying pan and place over until the second batch of onion turns soft
a high heat. When the oil is about 175C, and translucent.
INGREDIENTS gradually add the flour, mixing constantly Add the bay leaf, garlic, thyme, oregano,
135g andouille (or other smoked sausage), sliced using a balloon whisk. (If you don’t have a basil, cayenne, some salt and a good
into 2½cm-thick half-rounds thermometer, it’s hot enough when a pinch grinding of both black and white pepper
175ml vegetable oil of flour sizzles in the oil.) Continue to whisk (if you have it). Reduce the heat to low and
90g plain flour for 3-5 mins, until the roux turns the colour cook for 2-3 mins.
4 tbsp mild olive oil of peanut butter and begins to thicken. Add half the okra-tomato mixture and
225g okra, trimmed and sliced into rounds Reduce heat to low and continue whisking cook, stirring, for 3-4 mins. Add the stock,
180g tinned plum tomatoes for a further 3-5 mins, until the roux turns a crab meat and cooked sausage, and bring
1 large onion, peeled and finely diced deeper caramel colour and thins out again. to the boil.
200g celery sticks, finely diced Turn up the heat to medium and continue 7 Drain off any excess oil from the roux.
1 bay leaf to whisk, until the roux turns dark chocolate Gradually add the roux to the pan and
2 garlic cloves, finely diced brown. Remove from heat and set aside, whisk until fully incorporated. Simmer for 10
¼ tsp dried thyme stirring the roux once or twice as it cools. mins, until the stock thickens slightly.
½ tsp dried oregano Add 2 tbsp of the olive oil to another 8 Add the prawns and the remaining okra
½ tsp dried basil frying pan and place over a high heat. Add and tomato. Cook for 3-5 mins, until the
¼ tsp ground cayenne pepper the sliced okra and fry, stirring, for 4-5 mins, prawns turn pink and are cooked through.
1.5L seafood stock until it softens and begins to break up. Add Serve piping hot with a side of white rice.

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D E C O N S T RU C T

WHERE TO EAT
Gumbo is a rare find on UK menus, but take a trip to New
Orleans and you’ll be spoiled for choice

LO N D O N NEW ORLEANS and oysters. And, with a district of Gentilly is well 1950s, died in 2019, but
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(pictured) is helmed by a New Orleans’ residential perfect place for sharing a dark-roux broth and and kitchen staff. If you
chef from the American Riverbend neighbourhood food. pecherestaurant.com bolstered with both hot visit during Easter week,
South — and it shows. Slade could be forgiven for sausage and smoked book a table for the
Rushing made a name for thinking they’ve been L I U Z Z A’ S BY andouille, gilded with special Holy Thursday
himself at top restaurants, invited round to owners T H E T R AC K heaps of fresh seafood lunch of fried chicken and
including Brennan’s, in New Frank and Marna Brigtsen’s Located in a residential sourced from the Gulf gumbo z’herbes, made
Orleans, and his gumbo personal dining room. The district, close to a of Mexico. Chef Jordan with a variety of greens
packs in seafood, okra and usual house gumbo is filé racecourse (which is also Ruiz and his wife, Alexis, and meats. dookychase
andouille sausage made in- with chicken and andouille home to the annual New welcome all comers to their restaurants.com
house from Berkshire pork, sausage, although chef Orleans Jazz & Heritage restaurant, where the menu
with a touch of Spanish Frank’s gumbo repertoire Festival), Liuzza’s by the features everything from S A F F RO N N O L A
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crab rice. louie-london.com rabbit and vegan versions. a few tables that belies Munchin’ Wings to elegant warm glow of this family-
Don’t leave without trying the culinary mastery that dishes like blackened fish run restaurant on buzzing
P L AQ U E M I N E LO C K a slice of the chocolate takes place here. The with crawfish cream sauce. Magazine Street, tradition
This canalside pub in pecan pie for dessert. gumbo is full of spice themunchfactory.net meets innovation and
Islington has New Orleans brigtsens.com (in the best way), and Louisiana meets India.
art on the walls, Louisiana brimming with meats and DOOKY CHASE’S Arvinder and Pardeep
hot sauce on the tables and PÊCHE seafood. If you’re feeling R E S TAU R A N T Vilkhu use locally sourced
a serious attitude to gumbo At this seafood restaurant really hungry, pair it with Filled with works by produce and seafood to
in the kitchen. Owner in the downtown the peppery BBQ shrimp African-American express their dual heritage,
Jacob Kenedy learned to Warehouse Arts District, po’ boy, a hearty sandwich artists, Dooky Chase’s and while dishes like the
make it in Louisiana, and chef de cuisine Nicole Mills that’s another New Orleans Restaurant, in the Treme curried seafood gumbo
IMAGE: JAMES MCDONALD

regularly changes the doesn’t try to reinvent the speciality. 1518 N Lopez neighbourhood, offers its may look classic, you’ll find
version on the menu. One wheel with her seafood Street, New Orleans version of a Creole gumbo. a little extra hit of spice in
favourite features a dark gumbo — it’s a classic, Chef Leah Chase, the there. For more of the local
roux, homemade andouille varying with the day’s catch M U N C H FAC TO RY restaurant’s matriarch, who bounty, try the tamarind
sausage, shrimp and but likely to come with a A trip to this spot in the took over the restaurant shrimp or nariyal Gulf fish.
chicken. plaqlock.com cloudy broth, okra, shrimp northern New Orleans from her in-laws in the saffronnola.com

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Rising to the
occasion
In a land where black bread graces almost every table, Kenneth
Karjane and Eva Kõrvas — the duo behind one of Tallinn’s most
celebrated bakeries — serve up an Estonian feast
WORDS: DELLE CHAN. PHOTOGR APHS: K AROLINA WIERCIGROCH

N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO.U K / F O O D -T R AV EL 77
BREAKING BREAD

It’s a frigid -11C morning in the Estonian capital and the

city has frosted over. Fat, fluffy snowflakes are cascading
from the sky, blanketing the streets in inches of soft, sugary
powder. It’s the perfect weather for curling up by the fire,
but instead I’m out and about on an Estonian food trail.

I’m spending the day with Kenneth Karjane Este explains that she usually harvests her
and Eva Kõrvas, the affable young duo behind apples around August/September, extracting
Tallinn’s immensely popular Karjase Sai the juice using an old-school fruit press and
bakery. We’re trundling along an icy road in a bottling it in glass jars. “It’s 100% apples, no
bus headed south for the village of Rahula, in sugar or water,” she declares proudly. This
Harju County, where Eva’s family owns a little season, Este has managed to make around 400
farm. Despite being locals, they’re enchanted litres of juice — a “medium year”, she reckons.
by the snow. “I haven’t seen this kind of “This apple juice is something that we enjoy
weather in a long time,” says Eva, peering out throughout the year,” says Eva. “We always
the window. drink it whenever we have lunch together as a
It might be one of the coldest days of the family. We also sell it in our bakery. It’s really
year but the welcome I’m about to receive is loved by our customers, who say it’s the best
as warm as I could have hoped for. As we open they’ve ever had.”
the gate to the farm, two enormous dogs, Hagu This, I’m about to discover, is no
and Gusta, come bounding across the snow exaggeration. After laughing at the excitable
to greet us, tails wagging frantically. Close dogs, who have mischievously chased Egle’s
behind is Eva’s youthful mother, Egle Kõrvas, goats and sheep into hiding, we retreat into
a wide smile etched on her face. the house — a cosy, wooden structure decked
We’ve made the 15-mile journey from out with delightfully mismatched chairs and
Tallinn to taste some of Egle’s famous apple a host of four-legged residents. In addition
juice, which she makes every year from her to Hagu and Gusta, there’s Marta, a geriatric
crop of 20 or so apple trees, many of which dachshund; Jussi, a plump, sleepy-eyed cat;
bear heirloom varieties. “It’s a hobby for me,” Totu, a feisty, blue-eyed feline; and Misha,
Previous pages: Kenneth says Egle, who, as it turns out, has many another cat that apparently has an identity
Karjane, Eva Kõrvas and her pastimes: besides working as a physical crisis. “Misha thinks he’s a dog. He always
mother, Egle Kõrvas, in front of education teacher, she also dabbles in greets us at the door, and prefers dogs instead
Egle’s house in Saku Vald. furniture restoration and enjoys dancing. of cats for company,” Egle says affectionately.
In fact, she’s participating in a traditional She wastes no time preparing some
Clockwise from top left: Tallinn
dance performance in a nearby village refreshments: bowls of gingerbread biscuits,
Old Town; Egle at her house in
this very afternoon, which explains her some scented with orange peel; steaming
Saku Vald; labneh with picked
onions, shallots and fermented distinctive outfit: a striped skirt that’s mugs of sage tea, brewed with leaves Egle
beetroot in elderflower part of the rahvariided, a colourful folk picked from her vegetable garden just minutes
vinegar, topped with white costume, hand-stitched using a blend of earlier; and, of course, a large jug of apple
fish roe; Egle’s apple juice linen and wool. juice. This batch, she tells us, is made purely

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BREAKING BREAD

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BREAKING BREAD

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BREAKING BREAD

Clockwise from left: Lennart

Lind with Kenneth and Eva
at Karjase Sai bakery; sunset
in Port Noblessner in Tallinn’s
Kalamaja neighbourhood;
roasted pumpkin; Kenneth
prepares pasta

from perfectly ripened summer apples, which usually always black bread on the table in and sage). However, Kenneth and Eva are
are “sweeter and more intensive”. Catching Estonia,” says Kenneth. gradually moving towards small plates
a whiff of the spread, Gusta pads over and I’m told that almost every Estonian family — a concept that, I’m told, is still fairly new
quickly makes his presence felt, pawing at me will have their own leib recipe. “At Karjase Sai, in Estonia. The duo feels it’s a format that’s
insistently for table scraps. we make ours with organic wholegrain rye and especially conducive for conversation, as
I take a gulp of the cloudy golden liquid malt, which gives it a distinctive flavour profile diners will naturally chat about the food
and immediately understand why it’s so and colour, and bake it really dark so you get they’re sharing. “We think that it’s the nicest
special. It’s a medley of wonderfully complex lots of caramelised notes,” explains Kenneth. way to have a meal,” says Eva, as Kenneth nods
flavours: mellow yet full-bodied, sweet yet He tells me leib is supposed to rest overnight in agreement.
refreshing — a tantalising hint of summer on to let its crumb structure develop fully. “But in
a cold winter’s day. Eva’s customers are right, Estonia, people want their bread to be hot, so A seat at the table
I think. we bake and sell it straight away,” he says. These words ring true the following day, when I
Eva must have noticed my longing gaze, revisit Karjase Sai to have lunch with Kenneth,
Daily bread because she’s soon bringing out an array of Eva and a few of their friends. The morning is
In Estonia, there’s an old proverb that pastries for me to sample. There’s a rum and even colder than the first, but the bakery is, to
translates as: ‘Have respect for bread, bread vanilla canelé with a crispy shell and custardy my relief, pleasantly warm.
is older than we are’. Respect certainly centre, and a plush, pillowy cardamom bun I find Kenneth in the kitchen, chopping
isn’t in short supply at Kenneth and Eva’s — inspired by Kenneth’s stint in Stockholm, onions and garlic with practised ease.
bakery, Karjase Sai, which celebrates bread where he was an intern at Valhallabageriet Behind him, a massive wood-fired oven is
in all its various forms. Housed in a former bakery for several months. But my favourite roaring away merrily. “We imported it from
rubber factory in the up-and-coming Tallinn is a rich, buttery pastry packed with Italy and it couldn’t fit through the door, so
neighbourhood of Kopli, it regularly draws apple slices, scented with black pepper the delivery men had to cut a hole in the
long lines of hungry customers with its and cardamom, and glazed with an apple wall,” he chuckles. Kenneth removes a tray of
creative loaves and pastries. juice reduction. The addition of spice is an roasted pumpkin, seasoned with brown butter
The moment we step into the bright, ingenious touch — the taste lingering on the and ras el hanout spice mix, from the oven’s
airy, two-storey space, I’m greeted by the palate long after each bite. mouth, and then uses a brush to glaze the
comforting aroma of fresh bread, and my eyes Karjase Sai doubles as a restaurant and golden chunks with a carrot juice reduction for
are immediately drawn to the rows of baked natural wine bar, called Barbarea, in the extra sweetness. Next, he hurries over to the
goods displayed on a rack by the counter. evenings. The pizzas they sling here include pastry oven, extracting tins of dark leib and
On offer are crusty baguettes, burnished ‘mushroom’ (made with garlic creme, a glossy loaf of brioche, which will be topped
sourdough loaves, plump brioches, flaky parmesan, buffalo mozzarella and jerusalem with rosemary.
croissants, dainty pastéis de nata and bricks artichoke) and ‘cinta senese’ (salami, fennel, Over the next hour, Kenneth bustles about,
of leib (a dark sourdough rye bread). “There’s parmesan, buffalo mozzarella, black pepper rolling out fresh pasta, grilling sourdough

N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO.U K / F O O D -T R AV EL 81
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BREAKING BREAD

slices and stirring soup on the hob, tasting

his food every so often. He’s devising dishes Kenneth’s bread pudding Grease and line a large loaf tin, then
on the fly. “It’s super fun doing things you’ve For this modern take on Estonia’s popular pour in the pudding mixture. Bake for 1
never done before. That’s the joy in cooking,” dessert you can use any frozen berries you hr — it’s ready when you press the top
he enthuses. Witnessing Kenneth’s dexterity, like, but sour fruits work best. and the mixture doesn’t seep from the
it’s hard to believe he wasn’t always so capable S E RV E S : 8 - 1 0 TA K E S : 2 H R S P L U S surface. Leave in the tin to cool, then
in the kitchen. “I didn’t grow up in a wealthy OV E R N I G H T R E S T I N G place in the fridge.
household — it was just me, my mum and my Meanwhile, make the creme anglaise.
brother. Food was to sustain us,” he says. “But INGREDIENTS Add the milk and cream to a small pan.
at university, I started cooking and something 80g caster sugar, plus extra for serving Scrape in the vanilla seeds and add the
sparked in me. It suddenly made sense in some 4 large egg yolks pod too. Place over a medium heat.
weird way.” 240g whole milk While the milk is heating up, add the
As the clock nears 12, other guests start 150ml double cream egg yolks and sugar to a bowl, plus a
streaming in. They include Eva’s longtime 250g leftover croissants or brioche, cut into pinch of salt. Mix using a hand whisk
friend, Lennart Lind, looking dapper in a 2.5cm pieces until smooth. When the milk reaches
green turtleneck and thick, black-rimmed 250g frozen berries (such as raspberries 80C (or reaches just short of a boil), take
spectacles; Karjase Sai baker Erik Otti, tall and blackberries) off the heat and remove the vanilla pod.
and sporting a red beanie; and Barbarea butter, for frying Gradually add the hot mixture to the
sommelier Laura Maria Puju, dressed in beaten eggs, mixing as you go, taking
black and smiling cheerily. The trio are no For the creme anglaise: care to add it slowly so you don’t cook
strangers to Kenneth’s cooking, regularly 150g whole milk the egg. Transfer the combined mixture
partaking in his staff lunches and dinner 30ml double cream back to the saucepan and place over a
parties. “We’re lucky to have Kenneth’s food,” ½ vanilla pod medium heat for a few mins, whisking
beams Laura as she begins filling everyone’s 3 large egg yolks constantly, until it’s thickened slightly.
glasses with wine. 30g caster sugar Strain through a sieve and place in the
Soon, the first dish is served: a dip of finely fridge overnight.
chopped herbs and root vegetables layered METHOD The next day, when you’re ready to
with lemon-infused yogurt and crowned with Prepare the pudding and creme serve, lift the pudding out of the tin and
white fish roe from the Baltic Sea. We devour anglaise the day before serving. Heat cut into 2.5cm slices.
it greedily, mopping up the creamy goodness the oven to 150C, 130C fan, gas 2. Melt some butter in a large frying
with hunks of buttery brioche and, of course, Add the sugar and egg yolks to a pan over a medium heat, then add the
slices of nutty leib. large bowl and beat with a hand whisk. pudding slices. You may need to do this
This is followed by a rich tomato soup made Add the milk and cream plus a pinch of in batches. Fry for 2 mins per side, until
using Sicilian passata — “the best tomato salt and whisk until well combined. golden brown and warmed through.
product I’ve ever tasted,” Kenneth declares. Place the croissant or brioche pieces Sprinkle some sugar on top of each
It’s garnished with glazed pumpkin, capers, in a large bowl and pour over the slice and use a blowtorch to brulee the
garlic, anchovy oil and fermented chillies from egg mixture so the pieces are evenly surface (or place under a hot grill to
the bakery’s own greenhouse and served with coated. Let it stand for 30 mins, then caramelise). Serve with the cold creme
pieces of sourdough grilled in brown butter. fold the frozen berries into the mix. anglaise on the side.
In no time at all, the conversation is flowing
as freely as the wine, with Laura regaling
everyone with hilarious tales, ranging from
rogue Parisian rats to broken teeth.
Eventually, the talk turns to Estonian
food. “Traditionally, there’s plenty of meat
— mostly pork, vegetables and potatoes; lots
of potatoes. There are seven different ways
to do meat, and seven different ways to do
potatoes,” says Erik. “And black bread too,”
Laura chimes in.
They go on to explain that because of
the harsh climate, fermenting and pickling
are a key part of Estonian cuisine. “In the
summer, we pickle fruits and berries, and in
the autumn, we do mushrooms and everything
else. We typically eat these throughout the off-
season, when it’s like this outside,” Erik says,
gesturing to the snow. He tells me that dishes
are similarly guided by the seasons: fresh
produce in the summer, hearty soups and
stews in the autumn and winter. And in the
spring? “We eat the food left over in the
cellar from winter,” he laughs. He goes on
to note, however, that locals are becoming
more influenced by global cuisines — a case in
point being our meal, which has thus

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BREAKING BREAD

FL AVO U R S O F
TA LLI N N

Leib
Rye has been cultivated in
the Baltics states for over a
thousand years, thanks to
its ability to flourish even
in harsh conditions. Leib is
a quintessential Estonian
foodstuff, served up for
breakfast, lunch and dinner.
The dense, nutty bread can
be slathered with butter,
topped with Baltic herring,
dunked in soup or simply
savoured on its own.

Rosolje
Like leib, potatoes are a
mainstay of Estonian cuisine.
In the past, entire villages
would come together for the
September potato harvest,
storing their precious bounty
in burlap sacks for the cold
winter months ahead. Rosolje is
a fuchsia-hued salad containing
bite-sized cubes of potato,
beetroot, apples, boiled
eggs and, sometimes, pickled
herring, all smothered in a
creamy dressing.
Caption style
Verivorst
Similar to black pudding, this
traditional sausage is made
Rosemary brioche of pig’s blood, barley, onions,
allspice and marjoram — all
Above: Dinner is stuffed into a pig’s intestine.
served at Karjase Sai It’s usually served as a starter
during Christmas, when it’s
enjoyed with copious amounts
of sauerkraut, sour cream, and
far featured flavours from the Middle East from the bakery, it’s drenched in a Tahitian lingonberry or cranberry jam.
and Italy. vanilla creme anglaise and torched to create a Pig’s blood — mixed with flour,
Once our soup bowls are empty, Kenneth crunchy, bruleed top. After my third spoonful, fried onions, lard and seasoning
dishes up a creamy, cheesy cacio e pepe, made I decide that it ranks among the best desserts — is also used to make
with homemade pasta and roasted Jerusalem I’ve ever had, and my fellow guests concur. dumplings called verikäkk.
artichokes sourced from a local farm. “At “Super, super nice,” Eric pronounces. “One of
Karjase Sai, we really want to use Estonian my favourites,” Laura adds. Herring
ingredients, but the climate is so tough that it’s All too soon, every plate and glass is empty, In 2007, Baltic herring was
hard for the farmers. We are, however, trying and Lennart bemoans the fact that he has to named Estonia’s national fish
to get better at it,” he explains. drag himself back to his office — despite the — and for good reason. This oily,
It’s the perfect comfort food, but for me, blizzard, he’d travelled across the city just to silver fish is a key component
the meal’s pièce de résistance is a decadent, enjoy a taste of Kenneth’s cooking. I empathise of many traditional dishes — be
raspberry-studded bread pudding fresh from wholeheartedly, thinking to myself that even it served atop slices of leib,
the pan. “Good for my diet,” Lennart jokes. Eva the heaviest snowstorm couldn’t deter me enjoyed in rosolje or cooked in
explains that bread pudding is a traditional from a meal as delicious — and as delightful hearty casseroles. As herrings
Estonian dessert, typically whipped up at — as this. are typically fished in the spring,
home with stale bread and served with cold they’re often salted, marinated
milk. “It would also be offered during school H OW TO D O I T Air Baltic has nonstop flights from or pickled for consumption in
lunches on soup days,” she shares. Kenneth’s Gatwick to Tallinn from £109 one way. Doubles at the winter months.
version, however, is much more luxurious. Nordic Hotel Forum, in Tallinn, start at £78.
Made with croissants and brioche left over airbaltic.com nordichotels.eu visitestonia.com

84 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO.U K / F O O D -T R AV EL
R E V I V I NG T H E A RT OF GI N

BR IGH T E N
YOU R SPI R I T S
Feel ou r joy for g i n i n
ever y h a nd-cra f ted bot t le.

D r i n k R e s p o n s i b ly S e l e c t e d S t o r e s . S u b j e c t t o Av a i l a b i l i t y.
86 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO.U K / F O O D -T R AV EL
TH I S SO U TH AFRI C AN COA S TAL C IT Y HA S A C U LI NARY
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LE A S T FROM TH E TH RIVI N G I N D IAN COM MU N IT Y

DURBAN
WORDS & PHOTOGR APHS: TE AGAN CUNNIFFE

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DURBAN

A port city seasoned by salty sea air and

spices, Durban is home to a multicultural
population whose culinary traditions
have influenced its cuisine. At the launch
party for Durban Kota House — held at
a local backpackers’ hostel ahead of the
restaurant’s opening — the courtyard
is filled with music, chatter and the
scent of cooking. The main attraction
is the signature Big Boy Kota. While
international visitors might be more
familiar with ‘bunny chow’ — an Indian-
South African classic of hollowed-out
bread filled with curry — kota is an
alternative that emerged from the
townships. In this version, a hollowed-out
quarter loaf of bread is filled with layers
of beef patty, bacon, Russian sausage,
chicken polony (a type of sausage),
cheese, crisps, achar pickle and fried egg.

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DURBAN

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DURBAN

A doyenne of the South African Indian culinary

scene, Asha Maharaj has authored multiple
cookbooks, and her vegetarian curry and naan
puri are the stuff of legend. Although its origins
lie in Asia, Durban Indian cuisine has been
influenced over the generations by international
trade, ingredient availability, cost-efficiency and
African and Western cultures, creating a unique
culinary identity. Liberal use of spices, herbs and
ghee creates the fiery red colouring and complex
flavours that are synonymous with Durban
curries, which have fresh ingredients at their
core. At the Bangladesh Market, vendors sell fruit
and vegetables, meat, pickles and homemade
chutneys, along with snacks such as vadas,
samosas and kebabs.

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DURBAN

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DURBAN

Known as the Golden Mile, this popular stretch

of beachfront truly earns its name at sunrise. It’s
quietest on weekday mornings, when you’ll see
dog-walkers, joggers, cyclists and football teams
out in force. Inland, close to the Umgeni River,
visitors can take a break from watching the horses
at Hollywoodbets Springfield Park racetrack to fill
up on bunny chow at the Bunny Bar. Among the
most popular fillings are mutton curry and broad
beans, and even on non race days, a team of chefs
that includes Jennifer Pillay prepares vast vats of
curry ready for the lunchtime crowd.

92 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO.U K / F O O D -T R AV EL
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Stay & eat

Kyoto
Kyoto prefecture stretches inland from the Sea of Japan towards the city of Kyoto, the
country’s former capital. Inns along the coast serve up platters of sashimi, while hotels
in the city offer modern takes on traditional Japanese cuisine. Further south, visitors can
explore tea country, stopping at roadside stations to sample brews including matcha,
gyokuro and sencha. Wherever you stay, a trip through Kyoto is a feast for the senses

KAISEKI CUISINE IN THE

TRADITIONAL STYLE

STAY: A stone’s throw from the Sea of Japan,

in the small town of Amino, the real draw
of Ichiboukan Hotel is the adjacent beach
and, of course, the seafood. Spend the day
exploring the coast before watching the sun
dip below the horizon from an ocean-view
room or from the white sands of Yuhigaura
beach. End the day with a soak in the hotel’s
open-air natural hot spring bath.

EAT: Dinner is served in traditional Japanese

fashion: in-room, in kaiseki style, with dish
after dish of fresh, seasonal ingredients. The
star of the meal is undoubtedly funamori,
a colourful platter featuring five kinds of
sashimi, as well as a sukiyaki hot pot with
pungent matsutake mushrooms and marbled
Wagyu beef. Wash it all down with sake from
award-winning local brewery Takeno Shuzo.
ichiboukan.co.jp/english
| PA I D C O N T E N T F O R K A N S A I T O U R I S M B U R E AU

CHICKEN HOT POT

I N A TH ATC H E D C OT TAG E

STAY: Making your way inland, discover

ancient Japanese heritage among the
forests and villages of Miyama. The age-
old tradition of thatching still thrives here,
and at Miyama Futon & Breakfast Thatched
Cottages, with the guidance of owner and
craftsman, Mr Nishio, guests can even try
their hand at it. The pretty thatched houses
here are spacious and welcoming, with tatami
mats lining the floors and long, wooden
dining tables designed for dinner parties.
After you’ve tried your hand at thatching and
relaxed with some evening yoga, make the
most of the sumptuous food on offer.

EAT: The chicken hot pot prepared over an

open fire is a must-have while in Miyama.
This rich, warming dish is served with
fluff y rice and sesame tofu, alongside
grilled ayu fish and amago (masu salmon),
a delicacy in the region. Persimmons grow
wild here, and you’ll often find a hint of its
smooth, caramel-like flavour in local dishes.
miyamafandb.jp
| PA I D C O N T E N T F O R K I N K I D I S T R I C T T R A N S P O R T B U R E AU

JAPAN E S E - FRE NC H FU S ION

IN THE HEART OF THE CITY

STAY: Acclaimed Japanese architect Togo

Murano is to thank for the The Westin Miyako
Kyoto, a sleek, understated hotel in the heart
of the city. The exterior, inspired by the tea
ceremony with its rock-garden landscaping,
leads to exquisite rooms; all earthen tones
and intricate paper screens. In the spirit
of omotenashi (traditional Japanese
hospitality), an on-site concierge sees to
guests’ every comfort, from tea and flowers
to arranging meals at the city’s exclusive
restaurants. Indulge in an in-room spa
treatment from Sothys, a Parisian beauty
company known for its organic products.

EAT: Watch as French and Japanese cuisine

is fused together in an intricate dance
of ingredients and flavours at the open
kitchen of Dominique Bouchet Kyoto ‘Le
Teppanyaki’. The head chef serves elegant
French-style hors d’oeuvres alongside dishes
of prime beef from Kyoto and Kobe. Vegetables
— grilled to perfection — include Horikawa
burdock, Tamba Shimeji mushrooms, and
Fushimi chillies. global.miyakohotels.ne.jp/
westinkyoto/room/kasuien-japanese-annex/
| PA I D C O N T E N T F O R K A N S A I T O U R I S M B U R E AU

GREEN TEA FROM THE

WORLD’S FINEST TEA FIELDS

STAY: Japanese tea culture goes back

centuries, originating in the rolling hills
of Yamashiro, to the south of Kyoto city.
The tiny village of Minamiyamashiro is
particularly famous for its matcha green
tea, and guests at the Fairfield by Marriott
Kyoto Minamiyamashiro can stay among
the plantations themselves. Rooms look
out on rolling fields, are full of modern
conveniences, and have a hint of modern
Japanese aesthetic. Wake up early with a
steaming cup of green tea and watch the mist
hovering over the fields like a white blanket,
before heading out on a cycling tour.

EAT: It will come as little surprise that tea

features heavily on local menus. Before a
day of exploring, pop next door to the michi-
no-eki to fuel up on chagayu, steaming
rice porridge cooked with roasted tea.
These roadside stations are ubiquitous in
Japan and sell a mind-boggling array of
local snacks; try the green tea soft-serve ice
cream and stock up on green tea sweets.
marriott.com.au/hotels/travel/ukyfi-fairfield-
kyoto-minamiyamashiro

FROM LEFT: The Westin

Miyako Kyoto, with its
beautiful rock garden;
French-Japanese fusion
fare at Dominique Bouchet
Kyoto ‘Le Teppanyaki’;
Fairfield by Mariott,
Kyoto Minamiyamashiro,
surrounded by tea fields;
green tea ice cream
PREVIOUS PAGE ,
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP:
Ichiboukan hotel;
chicken hot pot;
Miyama Futon & Breakfast
Thatched Cottages;
kaiseki-style cuisine

PLAN THE TRIP

Getting there: Japan Airlines and British

Airways fly direct to Kansai International
Airport from Heathrow. From there, trains
and buses take travellers on to Kyoto.

Best time to visit: Seasonality is central to

Japanese dishes. Spring and autumn, when
the landscape explodes with colour, and
dishes with flavour, are ideal.

Kinki District Transport Bureau

C IT Y B R E A K

SEOUL
Classic Korean cooking is making a
comeback in the capital as chefs and
diners embrace local produce and
generations-old recipes

WO R D S: H A H N A YO O N

Over the past decade or so, Korean cuisine and regional specialities, often collaborating
has firmly been put on the map, thanks to with local farmers.
the popularity of the country’s films and TV Seoul is split in two by the Han River, with
shows, K-pop music and — crucially — the Gangnam (literally meaning ‘south of the
many diaspora chefs serving up Korean river’) full of skyscrapers and start-ups, while,
classics from London to Los Angeles. If, in the to the north, downtown Seoul is dotted with
past, visitors would come to Seoul not knowing traditional palaces and fortress walls, parts of
what to expect from the cuisine, now they which date back to the early Joseon Dynasty
arrive with a checklist of things to try: ‘real’ of the 14th century. In hip neighbourhoods
Korean barbecue; the favourite restaurants such as Garosu-gil and Hannam-dong, bistros
of K-pop band BTS; the jjapaguri (instant featuring family recipes stand shoulder to
noodles with steak) from Oscar-winning film shoulder with US-style cheeseburger joints
Parasite… And yet, there’s so much more to the and natural-wine shops.
capital’s dining scene. Yet, for a country that’s relied on its ability
Food plays an essential role in how Koreans to modernise at speed, one of the most
tend to socialise, and the country’s history prominent food trends to have emerged in
— hundreds of years of isolation followed by the past few years has been the revitalisation
Japanese rule and poverty in the aftermath of dishes that were popular in the 1960s and
of the Korean War (1950-1953) — is reflected 1970s — among them kalguksu (knife-cut
in its gastronomy. Not finishing a meal, noodles), dwaeji-gukbap (pork and rice soup)
for instance, is frowned upon, and dishes and soondae (blood sausage). Young people
inspired by the US military, such as Korean are increasingly turning to nopo (decades-old
fried chicken and budae-jjigae (‘army stew’), restaurants) for authentic flavours and to find
have become standards in the nation’s out how the dishes are made.
culinary repertoire. Barbecue, meanwhile, is one of South
Although currently limited by pandemic Korea’s best-known food traditions, and you’ll
restrictions, Seoul’s culinary scene is still find no shortage of lively spots in which to try
going strong. The concept of sinto buri, it. At barbecue restaurants you’ll find diners
meaning ‘body and soil cannot be separated’, knocking back shots of local spirits as cuts of
is emerging as a theme among restaurateurs, hanwoo (Korean beef) char over the flames.
meaning that many are now choosing to But there are lesser-known specialities worth
source local ingredients, rather than relying seeking out, too: North Korean-style cold
on imports as they might have done in the noodles, traditional spirits such as makgeolli
past. Well-reputed franchises, including and soju, and spicy stews, to name a few. So, of
Mumyeong Sikdang and Nature Kitchen, have course, come with a culinary checklist — but
interpreted the ethos to highlight seasonal you may need to add to it along the way.

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IMAGE: BEN WELLER

A truck selling drinks at

Dongdaemun Design Plaza
Youth Runway Market, a
night market that runs from
April to October

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SEOUL

A D AY I N

HANNA M-
DONG
At the foot of Namsan Mountain, this hillside
neighbourhood offers a striking contrast of
low-key residential homes and stately foreign
embassies. Wander the narrow, winding
streets and you’ll also find designer shops, art
galleries and chic bistros at every turn.
Start early at Summer Lane, a colourful
Australian spot serving the city’s best savoury
brunch. There are hour-long queues by noon,
but the 7.30am opening time is perfect for the
jet-lagged, who can start the day with delicious
eggs Benedict. Then navigate Hannam-
dong’s alleyways uphill to Namsan Outdoor
Botanical Garden, with its 269 plant species
and 13 themed areas, which include a fruit-
tree garden and another filled with azaleas.
Afterwards, make your way to the Leeum,
Samsung Museum of Art. Its permanent
collection includes pieces from the 13th
century, as well as modern works by artists
including Kim Whanki and Anish Kapoor.
For lunch, try Korean home-cooking at
Parc, a charming restaurant featuring owner
Pak Mogua’s family recipes. The menu is
seasonal, but it always has a good selection of
vegetarian options and great banchan (side
dishes), which might include cucumber kimchi
or dotorimuk (seasoned acorn jelly). Spend the
rest of the afternoon exploring Hannam-dong’s
independent boutiques before heading to the
Sounds Hannam complex to view a modern art
exhibition at Gana Art Sounds or browse travel
books and magazines at Still Books.
Dinner is down the street at Hannaembi,
a cosy spot serving warming, Japanese-style
hotpots with bone broth and hanwoo, as well
as unlimited vegetables. End the night at
Pussyfoot Saloon, a speakeasy-style cocktail
bar inspired by 1920s America — order a ramos
gin fizz and let yourself be transported.

Clockwise from top: City skyline with the N Seoul

Tower and Namsan Mountain in the distance; people
relaxing on the banks of Cheonggyecheon, a seven-
mile-long stream and pedestrian walkway running
through the centre of the city, just north of Euljiro;
sticky Korean fried chicken

KO RE A N FRI E D C H I C KE N

Ddobagi Chicken Mirak Chicken Hanchu

Just the place for second dinners, this low-key Garlic chicken — fried chicken smothered in This restaurant is known in Gangnam party
chimaek — chicken and maekju (beer) — joint garlic sauce and served on sizzling cast-iron circles as the place to begin the night; it has
offers small plates of crispy bites to pair with pans — is the speciality here, but long-time plenty of space for large groups and the
ice-cold beers. There are several flavours, but customers go for the thicker-cut, non-garlic ambience is always lively. The chicken served
don’t miss the bone-in, soy-glazed wings. Enjoy version that’s been salted to perfection. here is on the drier side, and it pairs beautifully
them within the no-frills interior, or order a Alternatively, opt for a side of ‘whole garlic with the stuffed fried peppers and tteokbokki
box or two for a picnic at the nearby Han River. topping’ (fried cloves of garlic) instead of going (spicy rice cakes). 68 Nonhyeon-ro 175-gil,
27 Wausan-ro, Mapo-gu all in. 17-1 Jahamun-ro, Jongno-gu Gangnam-gu

100 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO.U K / F O O D -T R AV EL
SEOUL

A D AY I N

EUL JIRO
Nicknamed ‘hip-jiro’, this warehouse district After lunch, learn more about the city’s
is known for its nightlife, but it’s also the place history at Sewoon Plaza. Built in 1968, the
to discover artsy bars, vintage boutiques and country’s first commercial and residential
retro cafes, all tucked between industrial high-rise was repurposed as a tech-goods
stores, family-run shops and printing presses. market and then partially demolished in the
Start with a breakfast snack of hotteok 1990s. Young entrepreneurs revived it in 2017
(sweet, stuffed pancake) and bindaetteok (fried as a ‘maker city’, and its current iteration
mung beans) at Gwangjang Market, one of the includes coffee shops such as Horangi Cafe, as
oldest in the city. After browsing the rest of well as Sewoon Electronics Museum, an ode
the food stalls, head up to the second floor to to gadgets past. Bring your camera and join
peruse the lavish hanbok (traditional Korean the many local photographers who come to
clothing) and the vintage boutiques. capture the contrast of decades-old shops and
A few blocks north west is Jongmyo, a more modern additions. B I B IM BA P
Confucian shrine originally built in 1394. For dinner, feast on grilled pork belly and
Although the structure has been rebuilt kimchi-jjigae (kimchi stew) at Eunjujeong, a Mokmyeok Sanbang
several times, the main hall is a fine example noisy hole-in-the-wall known for its spicy soup. Although bibimbap (mixed
of traditional Korean architecture. After your Afterwards, head to Nogari Alley, named after rice with vegetables) is often
visit, enjoy lunch at one of the decades-old a dried fish often eaten with drinks. The street overlooked due to its ubiquity,
Pyongyang naengmyun (cold buckwheat has many bars serving Korean lagers, so make this hillside restaurant is a
noodle) shops nearby. Woo Lae Oak’s noodles yourself comfy on one of the plastic seats and reminder that the dish, when
come with a topping of sliced pear, while Eulji say cheers over Alaskan pollock or Korean done right, is simplicity at
Myeonok’s are served with chilli powder and fried chicken. Round off the night at Seendosi, its finest. Each of the six
spring onions, and Pyeongraeok offers a tasty an artsy dive bar adorned with neon signs, or bibimbaps arrives as a rainbow
side of dak-muchim (vinegary chicken salad). After Jerk Off, an atmospheric wine bar. of plated vegetables and
perfectly cooked rice. Every
ingredient, right down to the
sesame oil, is so thoughtfully
prepared it’s hard to believe
nothing costs more than 14,000
won (£9). mmmroom.co.kr

A Flower Blossom
on the Rice
The signature item here is the
bojagi (traditional wrapping
cloth) bibimbap. Packaged in
a thin layer of egg, the dish,
once opened, reveals a medley
of vegetables and rice, with
subtle flavours shining through.
The restaurant’s owner, Song
Jung-eun, has been outspoken
about her ethos of using
only locally sourced, organic
ingredients. goodbab.co.kr

Toetmarujip
Doenjang Yesul
Although located in tourist-
centric Insadong, this place
doesn’t pander to visitors. It’s
popular with older gentlemen,
IMAGES: BEN WELLER; GETTY; STOCKFOOD

who come for the doenjang

bibimbap: a large bowl of
barley rice, a side of rich
doenjang (soybean paste) stew
and fresh garlic chives, which
the diner then mixes together.
5-26 Insadong 4-gil, Insa-dong,
Jongno-gu

N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO.U K / F O O D -T R AV EL 101
SEOUL

Pouring makgeolli, a
fermented rice wine

Left: Seoul Mule, a Korean

take on the Moscow mule
containing soju, cucumber
and ginger beer

SPOTLIGHT

KOREAN TIPPLES
Although the history of Korean sool (alcoholic drinks) chance to better understand the ingredients and taste ESSENTIALS
dates back thousands of years, these beverages are samples of the main varieties.
enjoying something of a resurgence. Under Japanese For a more upscale affair, try Mr Ahn’s Craft Makgeolli GETTING THERE

rule, only licensed breweries were allowed to produce in Gyeongnidan, where carefully curated rice wines are Korean Air and
Asiana Airlines fly
alcohol and recipes went from family affairs to paired with a seasonal menu of contemporary Korean
from Heathrow
homogenised, commercial products. Homebrewing was dishes. Alternatively, head across town to Mangwon-
to Seoul. Finnair,
legalised again in 1995 and people slowly became more dong, where Bokdeokbang is a homely bistro operated
Lufthansa and Air
interested in chemical-free, regional varieties of sool by a mother and son. The former crafts each dish in France-KLM offer
— giving birth to a new type of Korean bar. the kitchen, while the latter comes to each table to one-stop services.
Today, a night of sool typically involves soju (distilled recommend drinks to match your palate. Menus at both
rice wine) or makgeolli (fermented rice wine) paired with establishments are subject to change, but look out for WHERE TO STAY
traditional dishes. For a crash course on the subject, visit Boksoondoga, a brand of sparkling rice wine sometimes L’Escape Hotel
The Sool Gallery in Gangnam, where you can be led in a compared to champagne, or Haechang 6%, which has has doubles from

tasting by a Korean sommelier. The experience offers the the perfect balance of dry and sweet. 200,000 won
(£125), room only.
lescapehotel.com

HOW TO DO IT
C O FFE E S H O P S Bamboo Travel’s
11-day Highlights
Namusairo Manufact Fritz of South Korea trip
One of the first cafes in Seoul Without a single tea or a sweet treat A barista champion, a coffee includes a stay in
to serve speciality coffee when on the menu, Manufact is the place connoisseur and a baker teamed up Seoul plus private
it opened in 2002, Namusairo for coffee purists. Try hand-drip to open this quaint cafe in 2015. Visit tours, transfers,
IMAGES: STOCKFOOD; GETTY

moved to its current location — a brews from Ethiopia and Tanzania, the original Doha-dong location, flights and B&B
from £3,145 per
renovated hanok (traditional house) or the rich, signature Paul Gauguin order a madeleine with your latte
person. bamboo
in Sajik-dong — in 2013. The central blend. There are two locations, one and pick up a souvenir with the
travel.co.uk
courtyard is the ideal spot to sit and in Yeonhui-dong and another in cafe’s logo — a blue seal holding an
read on a sunny day. namusairo.com Bangbae. manufactcoffee.com espresso cup. fritz.co.kr MORE INFO
visitseoul.net

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| PA I D C O N T E N T F O R T R Ø N D E L AG T O U R I S T B OA R D

A
central Norwegian region
characterised by a rich, varied
landscape, Trøndelag has
earned the designation of
European Region of Gastronomy for 2022.
Its capital, Trondheim, is nicknamed
‘Home of Nordic Flavours’ and offers three
Michelin-starred restaurants. So, what
lies behind this culinary recognition?
It begins with a richly stocked, wild larder.
Moose and reindeer populate the high plains
and valleys here, and hunting is a traditional
pursuit. Meat is eaten fresh, but can also
be smoked, salted or turned into game
sausages. Seafood from the fjords is in high
demand internationally, and cod, lobsters
and scallops are central to many dishes.
Foragers go deep into forests to find herbs
Discover the cuisine and fungi. Berries are juiced, made into

Trøndelag
desserts or used to accompany savoury
dishes. Seaweed can be pickled or baked and
there’s a red variety called ‘truffle of the sea’
that tastes almost exactly like the funghi
and can be sold for up to £1,000 a kilogram.
To make the most of the region’s
cuisine, the Trøndelag Food Festival
— a lively celebration of food attended by
The Norwegian region of Trøndelag is witnessing
restaurateurs, fishermen, farmers and food
a culinary boom, aided by a strong focus on local produce producers — is a must. Between 28-30 July,
visitors can expect food stands, cooking
classes and a dedicated kids and teens area.

For more information on organising a trip to

Trøndelag, visit exploretrondelag.com

Michelin-starred
restaurants in Trondheim

THE BRITANNIA HOTEL: Award

-winning chef Christopher Davidsen
heads up the historic Speilsalen
restaurant, offering dishes that
IMAGES: FREDRIK RINGE; WIL LEE-WRIGHT/OI! TRØNDERSK MAT OG DRIKKE

combine tradition with a modern twist.

FAGN: Inspired by nature, the dishes

here look delicious and deliver on taste,
too. You can choose between a fine-
dining option or a bistro menu.

CREDO: Awarded the title of Norwegian

Chef’s chef in 2019, Heidi Bjerkan’s
connection to Trondheim is reflected in
her menus. Credo received the Michelin
Guide Sustainability Award in 2019.

Trøndelag is among
Norway’s most important
agricultural areas

ABOVE: Palate cleanser with

local gin from Stokkøya at
Speilsalen, Britannia Hotel
| PA I D C O N T E N T F O R I N V E S T N O R T H E R N I R E L A N D

ddd
NORTHERN IRELAND

Five distillery tours

Experience true craftmanship and gain an appreciation for the skills required
to make world-renowned Irish spirits on a guided distillery tour

N 1 2
orthern Ireland has seen a HINCH DISTILLERY, BOATYARD DISTILLERY,
renaissance in distilling in COUNTY DOWN COUNTY FERMANAGH
recent years, making it a Located on the beautiful Killaney Estate Find the Boatyard Distillery on the banks
fascinating destination for in County Down, between Belfast and the of Lough Erne in County Fermanagh. This
any whisky, gin or vodka fan. Across the town of Ballynahinch, from which it gets its unique business is run from a disused
IMAGES: BOATYARD DISTILLERY; HINCH DISTILLERY; RADEMON ESTATE

country, a series of world-class producers name, Hinch Distillery is one of Northern boathouse — meaning visitors can arrive just
are now blending traditional methods Ireland’s youngest, having launched in as easily by boat as they can by car. Founded
with innovative techniques to create late 2020. It specialises in triple-distilled by Joe McGirr, the distillery is a family
new spirits, flavours and tasting tours whisky, inspired by centuries-old distilling affair, with Joe’s brother Brian farming the
— all while respecting Northern traditions, with a range including small- botanicals, while his sister Marie writes the
Ireland’s unique distilling history. batch bourbon cask and peated single malt. poetry on the labels. Focusing on premium
The Old Bushmills Distillery is one The distillery is also renowned for producing craft spirits using sustainable practices,
example. Using water drawn from the the multi-award winning Ninth Wave Irish Boatyard’s range includes the signature
River Bush over beds of basalt rock, the gin inspired by Irish mythology. juniper-led, 46% ABV Double Gin made with
400-year-old distillery is the home of a Hinch operates two informative and hands- a double distilling method, as well as three
craft passed through the generations and on guided tours: the Classic tour, which additional gins and a vodka.
is listed as the oldest licensed whisky offers tastings of the distillery’s two flagship Each 90-minute tour includes a behind-
distillery in the world. We take a look at whiskys, and the Premium tour, featuring the-scenes look at everything from distilling
five other distilleries following their lead tastings of an additional two. On top of this, to labelling, with the history and origins
and redefining the spirits scene. there’s also a gin school experience where of the distillery, plus the chance to label a
visitors can learn about recipe development, 70cl bottle of Boatyard Double Gin. While
ABOVE: The bar at Boatyard Distillery
the necessary botanical ingredients, the in the area, don’t miss a trip on the Erne
RIGHT: Hinch Distillery; the copper stills at distilling process and even how to design Water Taxi or a guided walking tour with the
Rademon Estate their own labels. Enniskillen Taste Experience.
| PA I D C O N T E N T F O R I N V E S T N O R T H E R N I R E L A N D

3 COPELAND DISTILLERY,
COUNTY DOWN
After a successful crowdfunding project,
5 RADEMON ESTATE,
COUNTY DOWN
Founded a decade ago, the multi-award
Copeland Distillery opened its doors in 2019 winning Rademon Estate is the birthplace of
with a vibrant range of gins and a mission to Shortcross Gin. Each bottle is created using
become Northern Ireland’s most innovative foraged wild clover, elderflower, elderberries
craft distillery. It introduced its first rums and water from the estate’s historic well, in
and whiskies in 2020, and is currently homage to the surrounding forest. A notable
maturing malt and pot-stilled whiskys highlight of the tour is the opportunity to
which will launch in 2024. create a personalised label and wax-dip the
Though modern in its methods, Copeland bottle by hand — a process the team does for
is located near the historic harbour in every bottle. In 2021, Rademon launched its
Donaghadee, County Down, and shares the first whisky, the award-winning Shortcross
area’s rich maritime and distilling history Single Malt. They also hold virtual cocktail
through its products and tours. Listen out evenings, supper clubs and gin and jazz
for the fascinating story of the Copeland nights, while the tour covers the origins and
Islands, which were used as a Viking trading history of gin and includes the chance to
post and as a smuggling point from Scotland. taste the entire range.

4 ECHLINVILLE DISTILLERY,
COUNTY DOWN
Northern Ireland’s first farm distillery,
For more information on Northern Ireland’s
top distilleries, visit buynifood.com
and discovernorthernireland.com
Echlinville has been at the forefront of
the Irish spirits renaissance since it was
established in 2012. Located on the Ards
Peninsula in County Down, its tasting
tour takes in the unique topography of the
area and the workings of the farm, from
provenance to growing, harvesting and
visiting the beautiful copper stills.
Its products include Jawbox, a small-
batch gin with juniper and pine notes, and
Bán Poitín, a rebellious brand of the Irish
moonshine distilled from potato, malted
barley and molasses. Echlinville is all about
using slow distillation techniques to create
complex character and delicate flavour.

R E A D MO R E O N L I N E AT N AT I O N A LG EO G R A P H I C T R AV EL .C OM / T R AV EL
A TA STE O F

THE BAHAMAS
From food trucks and innovative spirits to big-name chefs and fine
dining, the Bahamas dining scene is springing some surprises

WORDS: ALICIA MILLER

THE LOCAL HANGOUT landed just off shore, which he favours for its and before the guests of Kamalame Cay — a
A R AWA K C AY flavourful white flesh and minimal bones. small island resort a 15-minute seaplane ride
Taking a steer from our server, Janiqua, I from Nassau — start to file into the window-
The sun has slipped south of the horizon and opt for the other house speciality: Cat Island lined dining room, Knowles is teaching me how
the weekend is waning, but Arawak Cay (also snapper, fried and topped with a tangle of to make the traditional Bahamian breakfast of
known as Fish Fry), in Nassau, is just heating pickled onions. As part of a set ‘dinner’, it boiled fish.
up. It’s Sunday night — locals’ night — and will be served with my choice from a long list The name doesn’t sound especially enticing,
the oceanside streets are clogged with cars, of sides — sticky, sweet-savoury plantain, but the reality is sublime: a simple broth
the sidewalks are teeming with bodies and macaroni bake and cooling coleslaw. And then, of potatoes, onion and delicate white fish,
wafts of steam ribbon through the air. Arawak when Janiqua raises an eyebrow at its absence freshened with lime and chilli. Served with a
Cay, a long strip of ramshackle restaurants from my order, I hastily add peas ’n’ rice — the scone-like bread (known as johnnycake) and
with clapboard exteriors, illuminated signs, classic Caribbean combo — for good measure. grits, it somehow manages to be both hearty
faded rum ads and crackling sound systems, But first, in Fish Fry tradition — as the band and light.
is gearing up for a party. At once food hall, music thumps and the crowds blur by — all One of the few fresh ingredients that
nightclub and community meeting house, things must start with conch salad. Conch, doesn’t need to be imported, fish is a big part
it’s where Nassau comes to socialise, dance, a sea snail with a luminous pink shell, is a of the Bahamian breakfast. A fishy breakfast
unwind. And feast. Bahamian obsession. Its squid-like flesh is makes even more sense where Knowles
“You’ll see the menus are all about the same,” prepared in a multitude of ways, from ‘cracked’ lives. Kamalame Cay is just off the coast of
my Bahamian guide Romeo tells me as he leads (deep-fried) to frittered, but a fresh salad is the wild and sparsely populated Andros Island,
us through the crowds towards Frankie Gone ultimate quality test: the softer the raw meat, the Bahamas’s largest island. It’s a fishing
Bananas, a cheery-looking corner spot. “But I’m told, the better the conch. Frankie Gone paradise; dozens of varieties fill its mangroves
the restaurants are all different in small ways. Bananas’ version doesn’t disappoint. The and rambling barrier reef, one of the world’s
IMAGES: 2021 LYNDAH WELLS PHOTOGRAPHY; AWL IMAGES; ALAMY

Everyone has their favourite.” We settle at an alabaster conch flesh is tender and yielding, largest. And the locally landed red snapper or
outdoor table, festooned with a straw umbrella as pillowy as a seared scallop. Tossed with grouper — delivered so fresh it’s practically
and just steps from a live band, and within diced onion, tomato, lime and hot pepper, the still swimming — is all that Knowles will use
seconds an icy local Kalik beer is in my hand. salad is at once crunchy, creamy, sweet, salty, in his broth.
Romeo means what he says. Some folk swear zingy and hot. Simple and yet refined, it would “The most important thing,” he says,
by cavernous Goldie’s Conch House — a lively convert even the staunchest seafood sceptic. dropping sliced onions and potatoes into a pan
place where professional-quality karaoke facebook.com/frankiegbananas of salted water, “is that the broth is crystal-
singers croon between rounds of crisp fritters clear. If it’s cloudy, Bahamians won’t eat it.”
and battered shrimp. Others prefer Oh Andros, a TH E TR A D ITI O N A L B RE A K FA ST The secret to clarity, he tells me, is to boil the
family-style haunt where a small patio is perfect K A M A L A M E C AY veg first, adding the fish at the end so it gently
for low-key chatter. We’ve ended up at Frankie cooks but doesn’t break up. If you want to keep
Gone Bananas, not so much for the fizzing, al “The name’s Knowles, like Beyoncé,” it clear, it also helps to be light-handed with
fresco atmosphere, but because Romeo tells me chef Tomiko Knowles tells me, by way of the ‘pepper’ (the Bahamian name for hot sauce)
it has some of the finest fish in the Bahamas. introduction. Towering above me, he exudes during the cooking process. “I like a lot of heat
“The food here is just like home,” he says, warmth, making me feel instantly at home in in mine,” admits Knowles, stirring in a ruby
ordering the restaurant’s signature grouper, his kitchen. It’s early on a blue-sky morning, dollop before spooning the broth into a bowl.

106 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO.U K / F O O D -T R AV EL
Cabbage Beach, Nassau

Clockwise from right: fried

conch and salad; Da Poke
Bowl Shack in Baha Mar;
chef Tomiko Knowles from
Kamalame Cay
BAHA M AS

The aroma of coconut-stewed grits, freshly

baked bread, lime, chilli and onion has filled
every corner of the kitchen, awakening my
senses. It’s robust, animated, wholesome. You
might call it an ideal start to the day.
kamalame.com

THE FOOD TRUCKS

BAHA MAR

Dripping in hot pepper mayo, topped with

crunchy pickles and coddled by a fluffy bun,
the Crispy Bird Sandwich — served from an
Airstream caravan on Nassau’s Cable Beach
— is certainly delicious. But then again, it
would be, because it isn’t just any old chicken
burger — it’s been created by Ethiopian-
Swedish chef Marcus Samuelsson, famed for
his Red Rooster soul food restaurants in New
York’s Harlem.
The Bahamas is home to a growing fine
dining scene that’s unique in the Caribbean.
In addition to his food truck, Samuelsson has Bahamian boiled fish by Blitz until you get a smooth consistency.
a restaurant in Baha Mar, serving up locally Tomiko Knowles Next, make the johnnycake. Mix the
caught seafood and dry-aged steaks. Nearby, S E RV E S : 4 TA K E S : 1 H R 1 5 M I N S flour, sugar, bicarbonate of soda and
in the glossy Rosewood Baha Mar hotel, French salt together in a large bowl. Work the
chef Daniel Boulud’s Café Boulud The Bahamas INGREDIENTS cold butter into the dry mixture using
restaurant is turning out truffle-laden dishes 1 medium potato, peeled and cut into 2cm your hands — you want the mixture to
and beaujolais wines. “I’ve been all over the cubes resemble rice grains.
Caribbean,” he tells me over a coffee on the 1 large white onion, thinly sliced Pour in the milk and mix to form a soft
balmy Café Boulud terrace, “but I love the 1½-2 limes (to taste) dough, then turn out onto a floured work
conch here in the Bahamas. Sometimes we 450g skinless and boneless snapper or surface and knead lightly until smooth.
serve it as a crudo in the restaurant.” grouper fillets Leave to rest uncovered for 15 mins, then
Meanwhile, over in Downtown Nassau, butter, to serve press into a greased 23cm square baking
Graycliff Restaurant (part of the Graycliff Hotel) tin and bake for 20-25 mins, until golden
has one of the world’s most impressive wine F O R T H E H OT P E P P E R S AU C E around the edges. Set aside until ready
cellars, with large-format Cristal champagne (O P T I O N A L ) to serve.
from the 1990s and a 1727 bottle of rheingau 450g fresh hot chillies (such as habanero, Meanwhile, make the grits. Add the
with a price tag of $200,000 (£147,000). scotch bonnet or goat pepper) coconut milk, stock and a pinch of salt
Back at Samuelsson’s food truck, I peruse 2 red bell peppers to a medium-size pan and place over
the menu — alongside the Crispy Bird 450-700ml white vinegar a medium heat. Bring to the boil, then
Sandwich, you’ll find conch and salt cod slowly stir in the cornmeal. Reduce the
fritters, jerk sticky wings with rum caramel F O R T H E J O H N N YC A K E heat and simmer gently for 40-45 mins,
and plantain waffles. And, of course, icy 360g plain flour stirring regularly, until cooked through.
Bahamian beers. A meal from a celebrated 50g white granulated sugar When the grits have 20 mins to go,
chef for about a tenner? It’s a prospect that 3¼ tsp bicarbonate of soda add 1L water to a large pan and place
makes the notoriously pricey Bahamas feel 1 tsp salt over a medium heat. Add the potato,
suddenly more affordable. 115g cold unsalted butter, cubed onion and the juice of 1-1½ limes to taste,
Samuelsson’s truck is one of many excellent 160ml whole milk reserving ½ lime for serving. Bring to the
street food options in the resort complex of boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for
Baha Mar, each one the antithesis of a drab hotel FOR THE GRITS 8-10 mins, until the veg is cooked.
buffet. Having finished gobbling my Crispy Bird 260g coarse cornmeal Add the fish fillets and cook for 5-7
Sandwich, I’m now eyeing up the sopes from the 420ml unsweetened coconut milk mins, until just cooked through. Stir
Mexican food truck next door. Further along 700ml fish or vegetable stock through a spoonful of your hot pepper
the shore, there’s poke — stuffed with blushing 85g unsalted butter sauce, if using.
IMAGE: 2021 LYNDAH WELLS PHOTOGRAPHY

chunks of yellowfin tuna — and another outpost When you’re ready to serve, stir the
selling ice cream sandwiches. Who said resort METHOD 85g butter through the grits and slice the
food was boring? bahamar.com/culinary Heat oven to 180C, 160C fan, gas 4. reserved ½ lime into four wedges.
First, make the hot pepper sauce, if Divide the fish and broth between
THE DISTILLER using; otherwise skip to step 3. Place all four bowls and garnish each with a lime
J O H N WAT L I N G ’ S D I S T I L L E RY the ingredients in a blender, adding the wedge. Serve with the grits and hot
amount of vinegar that suits you — using pepper sauce on the side, along with
Buena Vista Estate is part of the fabric of less will give you a thicker, hotter sauce; slices of the warm johnnycake and plenty
Nassau. Erected over 225 years ago, this more will make it runnier and less potent. of butter for spreading.
imposing, palm-fringed pile — veranda-
wrapped, with shutters and manicured

N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO.U K / F O O D -T R AV EL 109
BAHA M AS

lawns — is an echo of another era. But with a processes. All his distillates — produced from ESSENTIALS
complex history as a sisal estate, it’s no temple Caribbean sugar cane molasses — are filtered
to the past. In fact, it’s home to innovation: through coconut charcoal, then aged for GETTING THERE
John Watling’s Distillery opened in the space between two and eight years in former bourbon British Airways and Virgin
less than a decade ago. Here, co-owner Pepin or sherry barrels before blending. Pepin is Atlantic fly non-stop to
Nassau. Onward flights
Argamasilla makes some of the most exciting interested in keeping things small-scale.
to Andros are available
new rums in the Caribbean. Everything is hand-blended, hand-bottled,
with LeAir or Coco Bahama
“Rum isn’t about the terroir of the sugarcane hand-labelled. Industry conventions are
Seaplanes. For Harbour
— it’s all about ageing and blending,” he tells questioned; creativity is welcome. Island, take a ferry from
me, gesturing towards his barrels, piled in a It’s this approach that led him to create his Nassau with Bahamas Ferries,
dark hangar, where the Bahamian air creeps first single-barrel rum, bottled at a punchy or fly to Eleuthera island with
through the windows, slowly working its magic. 66.2% ABV cask strength — well above the Pineapple Air and transfer to
Thanks to the combination of sea breezes industry standard of 40%. “People have a hard Dunmore Town via a taxi and
and tropical heat, spirits rested in Nassau time placing it,” Pepin tells me, as we stroll to boat ride.
can age more than twice as fast as those in the tasting bar across polished floors in Buena
H OW TO D O I T
cooler locations. Pepin’s six-year-old rums, for Vista’s front room. “They sometimes think it’s
British Airways flies from
example, theoretically have the same depth of an armagnac.”
Heathrow to Nassau from
character as a 15-year-old Scotch whisky. “They Nosing the rich bronze liquid, I’m hit by a
Above: John £556 return. Rooms at
wouldn’t taste quite like this if you made them wave of intensity: floral, citrussy, fruity and Watling’s Distillery Rosewood Baha Mar from
anywhere else,” he notes. honeyed. As I sip the complex pour, it feels less $795 (£582), room only.
Pepin, a sixth-generation rum-maker like armagnac, and more like I’m consuming the Below: pineapple ba.com rosewoodhotels.com
and master blender, is fastidious about his liquid sunshine of Nassau. johnwatlings.com upside-down cake bahamas.com

O N LY I N TH E BA H A M A S

Pineapple Goombay smash

For centuries, Gregory Town — on the wild isle Dangerously drinkable, this potent cocktail is
of Eleuthera — has grown some of the world’s made from white, gold, coconut and dark rums,
sweetest pineapples (Bahamians refer to the plus orange and pineapple juices. While it’s
fruit as ‘sugar loaf’). Take a day trip here from served all across the island, make sure you try
Harbour Island, getting a selfie with the town’s the versions served up on pink-sand Harbour
pineapple monument, then scoffing pineapple Island. The finest is at The Dunmore hotel,
IMAGES: ALAMY

upside-down cakes from Cravings Bake Shop. where it’s so popular the bartenders prepare it
facebook.com/CravingsBake by the jugful. dunmorebeach.com

11 0 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO.U K / F O O D -T R AV EL
I T ’S YOU R H E A RT
T H AT TA K E S YOU PL AC E S
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O N LO C ATI O N

LYMINGTON
Head to this Hampshire market town for centuries-old pubs and
farmers’ markets, plus delicious seafood fresh off the boat

W O R D S : P H O E B E H U N T. I L L U S T R AT I O N : TA N YA C O O P E R

Squeezed between the Solent and the New Forest, homemade sourdough toasties and its own blend of
the market town of Lymington is spoiled for ethically sourced coffee. The independently owned
produce from both land and sea. Crab straight cafe also serves excellent vegan breakfasts.
from the boat, New Forest venison, tomatoes from Just next door, Humbug (1 Quay Street) is the
the Isle of Wight just across the water — you’ll stuff of childhood fantasies — a vintage-style sweet
find it all here. And on a walk along the sea wall, shop packed with glass jars of gobstoppers and
foragers might come across sea purslane, winkles peanut brittle, pink shrimps and chocolate limes.
and crab apples. Run by husband-and-wife team John and Dawn
In July each year, the town hosts the Lymington Dowland, Humbug sells sweets by the gram, as
Seafood Festival, offering three days of live music, well as serving scoops of New Forest Ice Cream in
oyster shucking and more — but food is a year- waffle cones.
round preoccupation here. On the quayside, As evening approaches, seek out The Yard at Guy
freshly caught fish is sold to wholesalers, while Kremer (facebook.com/theyardlymington) and
on the High Street, Lymington Charter Market ring the doorbell to enter. “We’re tucked down an
(lymingtonmarket.co.uk) has taken place since the alleyway and try to create a bit of a speakeasy vibe,”
13th century. Each Saturday, you’ll find the road say lifelong friends Tai Stanley and Charlotte Day,
lined with stalls selling everything from locally who have been running this boho spot for three
made cheeses and conserves to crafts and clothes. years. They offer poke bowls made using fresh-off-
For a fine-dining taste of the area, join the the-boat fish, as well as local charcuterie, dressed
steady stream of both locals and visitors tucking crab and Asian-inspired soups.
into the daily-changing tasting menu at The Just outside town, you’ll find the Fleur de Lys
Elderflower (elderflowerrestaurant.co.uk). (fleurdelys-pilley.co.uk), the oldest surviving pub
Established in 2014 by London exiles Andrew in the New Forest, where pints have been pulled
and Marjolaine Du Bourg, this Michelin-listed for almost 1,000 years. Old-school interiors (low
restaurant serves creative dishes that “depend on beams, brick walls) sit beneath the huge thatched
what Kevin the fisherman brings,” according to roof, and the kitchen churns out daily specials,
Andrew. “It might be turbot, red mullet, skate, sole which might include venison bonbons or beef
or squid on any given day.” For dessert, meanwhile, shin slow cooked in ale. In winter, cosy up by the
the chocolate cigar with smoked vanilla ash and blazing log fire, and on warmer days, soak up the
whiskey is a firm favourite. sun in the garden.
Further along ‘the Cobbles’, as locals describe
Quay Hill’s 330ft stretch of pretty pastel shops, H OW T O D O I T: Travelling by train from London Waterloo
you’ll find gourmet crab sandwiches from Seafayre to Lymington Town, changing at Brockenhurst, takes just
Seafoods, as well as places to pick up a pasty or under two hours. Southampton and Bournemouth are both
book a yacht charter. At the bottom of the hill, less than 40 minutes away by train, also via Brockenhurst.
on the quayside, Coffee & Drift (coffeeanddrift. The Monkey Brewhouse, an 18th-century brewpub, has
co.uk) is a casual lunch spot serving buddha bowls, double rooms from £80, B&B. monkeybrewhouse.co.uk

11 2 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO.U K / F O O D -T R AV EL
THE PIG
A couple of miles away in
Brockenhurst, the original
outpost of the now-famous Pig
Hotel micro-chain occupies a
beautiful country estate. Pay
a visit for the 25-mile-radius
menu in the Conservatory, a
pizza in the courtyard or a
herb-infused bloody mary
made with one of no fewer
than 15 flavoured vodkas.
thepighotel.com

R I VA A Z
Any preconceived notions that
Lymington isn’t a curry hotspot
will be blown away after an
encounter with owner-maître
d’ Shah Malek. His easy-going
charm and constantly changing
menu of curries have won T H E H AV E N
his establishment the title of Amble along to this nautical
Best Indian Restaurant on the spot in one of the town’s two
South Coast at the Asian Curry marinas for excellent seafood
Awards for the past four years. and views towards the Isle of
rivaazdining.com Wight. The Haven serves a
hearty cooked breakfast,
as well as sundowners and
al fresco summer lunches
on the terrace, which are
best accompanied by a
bottle of rosé and a spot
of fantasy boat shopping.
havenrestaurant.co.uk

N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO.U K / F O O D -T R AV EL 113
BOOKS

SWEET, SOU R & S PIC Y

O TA M A C ARE Y HA S B EEN S ERVI N G U P S RI L AN K AN FO O D AT H ER SYD N E Y
RE S TAU R ANT, L AN K A FI LLI N G S TATI O N , S I N C E 20 1 8 . WITH H ER N E W B O O K ,
L AN K A FO O D, S H E H O PE S TO S PRE AD TH E WO RD TO TH E RE S T O F TH E WO RLD

What are the characteristics of Sri Lankan food? How has Australia influenced the food you cook?
The answer to that is really complicated, which is part My cooking is the result of so many different influences
of the reason why I’ve written this book. I know there’s a — I’ve spent a lot of time cooking Chinese and Italian,
massive diaspora of Sri Lankans around who know their I’ve spent time in French restaurants and Japanese
food really well, but [in the] mainstream there’s not a restaurants — my background is from all over the
lot of restaurants in Australia that do Sri Lankan food. place really. I use Sri Lankan ingredients, but I try to
It’s a curry-based cuisine, but I think there are a lot of bring Australian ingredients in as much as possible,
[similar] characteristics with Thai food, with that hot- and, technique-wise, it’s not traditional, but I suppose
sour balance. A lot of it is really spicy, and then there’s flavour-wise it is more so.
sweetness from jaggery, which is similar to Thai palm
sugar. And they use bitter greens as well, so there’s that. How was it writing recipes that have traditionally been
In terms of ingredients, the main thing you can’t really passed down orally?
cook Sri Lankan food without are curry leaves, Maldive It’s so tricky because I feel like what I’ve done is barely
fish and fresh coconut. even scratch the surface. I’ve travelled [to Sri Lanka] a
lot, and my grandmother and my mum were really good
Sri Lanka has a long history of being colonised and has a cooks. When [my nan] was growing up and when my
lot of different cultural influences. How is that reflected mum was being raised [in Sri Lanka], they had a lot of
in the food? servants, who would’ve done a lot of the cooking. And
That’s the main thing about the food today, all those so when my nan came to Australia in the 1970s, a lot
different influences. There’s a deep-rooted influence of that influenced her cooking, because she suddenly
first and foremost from India, and Tamil food. So that’s had to cook for a family of five every single day when
why rice and curry is the staple meal all over the island. she would’ve had help before. And she had to do it in a
But then you’ve got a lot of Muslim influence, which is country where she couldn’t get all of the ingredients.
really interesting — you see that in the ingredients and Before [my restaurant], Lankan Filling Station, was a
in specific dishes like biryani — and then there’s a Dutch proper idea, I went to Perth, hung out with my nan for
IMAGES: ALAMY; ANSOM SMART

Burgher influence. With Tamil food, you’ve got hoppers a month, and the aim was to get all the family recipes.
[a bowl-shaped pancake], which is something we do quite Even then, she was very sneaky. Like I’d turn my back,
a lot at the restaurant, and there’s a Chinese influence and she’d be putting something in the pot. And it’s
as well, as there were once a lot of Chinese merchants. funny because with that generation there was that
You notice that in the stir-fried dishes at the street food Lanka Food: secretiveness. There’s a great family story about how
places — they all have woks. There are a lot of what they Serendipity & Spice, nan gave her chicken curry recipe to all five children,
call ‘devilled’ dishes, which covers stir-fries or anything by O Tama Carey (£26, and they each got a slightly different version.
with chilli or that’s really spicy, but isn’t a curry. Hardie Grant) Interview: Sarah Shaffi

11 4 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO.U K / F O O D -T R AV EL
The view towards Ella Rock from Little Adam’s Peak
in Sri Lanka’s Hill Country

Clockwise from right: Hoppers served with curries;

fishing boats at Mirissa Beach in southern Sri Lanka;
pan rolls with beef and spiced potato fillings

N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO.U K / F O O D -T R AV EL 115
BOOKS

Devilled cashews 1 tbsp salt flakes, plus extra to taste regularly, until the seeds just start to pop.
This addictive snack is simple to make and a perfect 2½ tsp chilli flakes Add the curry leaves and fry for 30 secs,
nibble with drinks. The nuts should have an almost 1 tbsp chilli powder, plus extra to taste stirring, then add the cooled cashews and half
sweet flavour and be on the verge of being too the salt, and stir well to coat the nuts.
salty and too hot. Make a larger batch if you like METHOD Continue to fry for 2-3 mins, stirring
— they keep well for weeks in an airtight container. Heat oven to 150C, 130C fan, gas 3. occasionally, until they turn a deep golden
S E RV E S : 6 - 8 TA K E S : 1 0 M I N S Spread out the cashews on a baking tray colour — a bit of charring is absolutely fine.
and place in the oven for 12-15 mins, giving Stir through the chilli flakes then swiftly
INGREDIENTS them a toss 2-3 times throughout, until they remove the pan from the heat.
400g whole raw cashews are pale golden all over. Set aside to cool. Add the chilli powder and remaining salt
40g ghee Add the ghee to a large frying pan and and toss to coat. Taste and add more chilli or
1 tbsp black mustard seeds place over a high heat. Once it’s melted, add salt if you like. Set aside until just cool enough
6g curry leaves the mustard seeds and fry, shaking the pan that you can easily eat them with your fingers.

11 6 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO.U K / F O O D -T R AV EL
BOOKS

Dal 2cm ginger, peeled and finely chopped for 6-7 mins until the onion has softened.
A good dal is a thing of beauty and comfort, and 2½ tsp black mustard seeds Lightly season with salt and pepper.
this one is based on a recipe my mum taught me. 2 tsp ground turmeric Add the mustard seeds, turmeric and
Cheap, nutritious and simple to make, it tends to 1 cinnamon stick cinnamon. Cook, stirring, for 1-2 mins until the
be a side dish, although really a bowl of rice and dal 4 x 5cm pieces of pandan leaf (optional) turmeric begins to catch on the base of the pan.
on its own is enough to warm the heart and fill the 1 lemon grass stem (bottom 5cm only), Add the pandan leaf (if using), lemon grass
belly. Creamy, mild and very savoury, this is exactly lightly bruised and lentils, and stir well to combine.
the way we cook it at Lankan Filling Station. You 525g split red lentils, thoroughly washed Pour in the coconut cream along with 1
can make it wetter or drier to suit your needs. 450ml coconut cream litre water. Mix well, then reduce the heat to
S E RV E S : 4 TA K E S : 2 5 M I N S low and simmer gently for 10-15 mins, stirring
METHOD every now and then to check it’s not sticking
INGREDIENTS Put the coconut oil into a medium-size to the pan. The dal is ready when the lentils
75g coconut oil saucepan and place over a medium heat. have turned yellow and pulpy, while still
5g curry leaves When it’s melted, add the curry leaves and fry, retaining a little texture. Taste and season if
3 medium brown onions, peeled and roughly diced stirring, for 1 min. Add the onion, garlic and you need to, remove the cinnamon and lemon
3 large garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped ginger. Continue to cook, stirring occasionally, grass, then serve piping hot.
IMAGES: ANSOM SMART

N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO.U K / F O O D -T R AV EL 117
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BOOKS

Pineapple chutney 1 whole star anise Transfer the charred pineapple to a clean
This chutney isn’t based on a traditional 1½ tsp ground cardamom bowl and repeat with the remaining mixture,
recipe, but the hot, sweet and spicy flavours fit including any liquid that’s pooled in the
comfortably into a Sri Lankan meal. This will last METHOD bottom of the bowl.
for up to two months in the fridge or in sterilised Place all the ingredients in a large bowl. Mix Set aside all the cooked pineapple until
jars at room temperature. well so the jaggery coats the pineapple and it’s cool enough to touch. Remove the star
S E RV E S : 8 TA K E S : 2 0 M I N S almost dissolves. anise, then turn it out onto a chopping board
Place a large nonstick frying pan over a high and chop it to your preferred consistency
INGREDIENTS heat, then spoon in enough of the pineapple — although keep it reasonably chunky. It gets
1 small pineapple (around 750g), peeled and cut mix to form a single layer. Leave it to sit messy, so you may need to do this in batches.
into 2cm cubes undisturbed for 2-3 mins, until the jaggery Return the mix to the bowl, taste and adjust
starts to catch and the pineapple has taken on the seasoning if necessary. You want to taste
IMAGE: ANSOM SMART

200g jaggery, chopped (or soft dark brown sugar)

1 tbsp chilli powder a bit of colour. Continue cooking for another all the spices, particularly the pepper. Serve at
2 tsp salt flakes 7-8 mins, stirring every now and then, until the room temperature with a curry, or transfer to
1 tsp freshly ground black pepper mixture starts to look almost burnt. sterilised jars and store in a cool, dark place.

N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO.U K / F O O D -T R AV EL 119
BOOKS

N E W R E LE A S E S

SUB-SAHARAN SPECIALITIES
REC I PE S C ELEB R ATI N G TH E D IVER S IT Y O F AFRI C AN C U LT U RE

OUR PICK
SA K A SA K A
Anto Cocagne & Aline Princet
In Saka Saka, chef Anto Cocagne
and food photographer Aline Princet
have taken on the colossal task of
compiling a collection of recipes from
across Sub-Saharan Africa, offering
an introduction to the region’s many
and varied culinary cultures.
Alongside 80 recipes, the book
features African musicians, writers
and creatives discussing their favourite dishes and offering
insights into the flavours of countries including Cameroon, Mali,
Burkina Faso and beyond. Throughout, the authors convey the
vibrancy and history of Sub-Saharan Africa, looking at the how
colonisation has affected its gastronomy and why sharing food and
stories over the table is so important.
There are plenty of accessible dishes, including cassava and
prawn fritters and a cooling papaya gazpacho, as well as a few
featuring more obscure ingredients, such as odika-smoked
chicken, which is prepared with a mango seed kernel, and cream
of taro soup. There are also tips on how to stock up your cupboard
with African essentials, as well as advice on preparing perfect
pastes to flavour meat, fish or vegetables. £20, Murdoch Books

BEST OF THE REST

FA M I LY B U S I N E S S FA S T F O O D
Taste Tibet Nistisima
Julie Kleeman & Yeshi Jampa Georgina Hayden
Named after the authors’ Oxfordshire The history and culture of fasting in
WORDS: STEPHANIE PHILLIPS.

food stall and restaurant, Taste Tibet Orthodox Christian culture is at the
IMAGES: ALINE PRINCET

reflects the nomadic food culture of the centre of this collection of traditional
Himalayas, where Yeshi grew up. Expect vegan recipes eaten during Lent across
comforting soups and stews, as well as the Mediterranean, Middle East and
the restaurant’s famous chicken curry, Eastern Europe. Among the dishes are
and learn the secret to perfecting hand- pistachio and cardamom halva, and
pulled noodles. £25, Murdoch Books manaqish-swirled buns. £26, Bloomsbury

120 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO.U K / F O O D -T R AV EL
Banana fritters
Eat as a sweet treat with a side of ice cream, or as a
savoury snack with a spicy dipping sauce.
S E RV E S : 6 - 8 ( M A K E S 2 5 - 3 0)
TA K E S : 5 0 M I N S P L U S 1 H R R E S T I N G T I M E

INGREDIENTS
6 overripe bananas or plantains, peeled and sliced
into small rounds
60g plain flour
60g fine cornmeal
60ml whole milk
7g instant-action yeast
sunflower or vegetable oil, for deep-frying
icing sugar or melted chocolate, to finish

METHOD
In a large bowl, mash the sliced bananas with
the back of a fork. Add the flour, cornmeal and
a pinch of salt and mix using a wooden spoon.
Pour the milk into a saucepan and place over
a low heat until lukewarm. Tip the warmed milk
into a small bowl and stir in the yeast.
Add the milk mixture to the banana mixture
and combine. Cover the bowl with cling film
and leave it in a warm place for an hour, or until
one-and-a-half times the size. Knock back the
dough with your fist to remove the air bubbles.
Add the oil to a deep fat fryer and heat
to 170-180C. Alternatively, add the oil to a
deep, heavy-based saucepan to fill no more
than halfway and place over a medium heat.
To check the oil is hot enough, dip the end of
a wooden spoon in; it should start bubbling
gently around the wood.
Shape the dough into balls (1 tbsp per ball).
Working in batches, carefully lower into the
hot oil. Cook for a few mins each, until golden.
Transfer the fritters to some kitchen paper
to drain, then serve hot, dusted with icing
sugar or drizzled with melted chocolate.

TA S T E O F H OM E A LG A RV E A N D B E YO N D
Ammu Portugal the Cookbook
Asma Khan Leandro Carreira
This book, from the brains behind London In his new book, Portuguese-born chef
restaurant Darjeeling Express, is a collection Leandro Carreira celebrates the diversity
of recipes and reflections inspired by of his homeland’s cuisine, which has
Asma’s ammu (mother) and childhood been influenced by centuries of cultural
home in Kolkata. Many recipes have been exchange with China, India, Africa, South
in the family for generations, including a America and more. Expect Algarve-style
spiced leg of lamb Asma’s mother prepared seafood dishes, as well as delicacies such as
for her wedding day. £26, Ebury Press egg yolk candies. £39.95, Phaidon

N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO.U K / F O O D -T R AV EL 121
Beyond Sicily there is another Sicily
Few places in the Mediterranean have the eternal charm of this piece of land, designed by
the rows of Malvasia sloping towards the cobalt-coloured sea of Salina, in the Aeolian
Islands. A place of the soul and a unique wine destination, where the gardens from which
the chef draws the finest local ingredients and the white guest rooms blend with the
Aeolian landscape, in a harmonious ecosystem. And the lighthouse to illuminate the way.

capofaro.it | follow on @Capofaro

REVIEW

DINE OUT

SAR AP FILIPINO BISTRO

LO N D O N • SA R A P LO N D O N .C OM

CHARCOAL, CAL A M AN SI AND CHILLI GIVE DI SHES PLENT Y

OF PUNCH AT FERDINAND MONTOYA’S NE W OPENING

I always feel a bit like Henry VIII when I order dish after it emerges from the oven: a full little stingy meat-wise, given it costs £25. A
a pig’s trotter. They’re so big and unflinching lechon piglet stuffed full of lemon grass and spatchcocked poussin comes with the
when you see them in a butcher’s shop, and rice. Alas, that feeds six to eight, and we’re pleasing fresh burn of the charcoal on which
they confront you with your own carnivorous only two. it’s been cooked, but the accompanying
tendencies in a manner I’m not quite What we do get our hands on, however, lemongrass and coconut vinegar dressing
comfortable with. Or rather, they usually do. we love. First out to us after the triumphant is a little under-powered. But any oomph
At Sarap Filipino Bistro they look like they’re trotter, is a zingy kinilaw, tender fish cured the poultry is lacking can be found in the
spun from sugar, delicate and golden as they in coconut vinegar and prettily accessorised accompanying kale laing, greens slow-braised
arrive. And they taste as good as they look. The with spots of mango and cucumber, all in coconut milk, garlic and plenty of chilli. It
twice-cooked skin shatters like glass, pouring glistening like a pearl tiara. Ensaladang kicks like a rhino.
out the rich adobo rice filling with its little talong — aubergine salad — arrives as a little Sarap Filipino Bistro is a clever restaurant
thickets of fatty pork meat. It’s a knockout. leaning tower of pert winter tomatoes, smoky with thoughtful dishes that challenge your
IMAGE: THOMAS ALEXANDER

The chef, Ferdinand ‘Budgie’ Montoya aubergine and the lightest flurry of smoked palate and transport you far from London to a
— formerly of Foley’s and Story, and latterly goose-egg shavings on top. much warmer place. I leave full, content and
of Sarap Baon, his other place in Brixton Next come the mains. The bistek, an aged much more comfortable with ordering trotters.
Market — knows his way around a butcher’s beef sirloin, is rose-pink, with a slick of Just call me Henry VIII. The menu is sharing
block. Displayed like a crown on a plinth in piquant jus of calamansi (a Filipino citrus plates; three starters, two mains and a side, plus
the middle of the restaurant floor, the block is fruit) and soy, plus little pickled shallots two mocktails and tip comes to around £120. The
where Montoya goes to work on his signature and yeasted onion. It’s sensational but a writer visited in December 2021. Samuel Muston

N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO.U K / F O O D -T R AV EL 12 3
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DISTILLED BEHIND THE SCENES IN LONDON

Not many good things came out of 2020, but Green Room Distillery
and its range of unique, premium, small batch spirits is certainly one
SLIM2022 of them. Started by two friends from the world of theatre, Green
Room’s multi-award winning Small Batch Dry Gin, Flyman’s Strength
Gin, Sloe Gin and Triple Filtered Vodka are all distilled, hand-ﬁlled,
labeled and ﬁnished with a wax seal, ‘behind the scenes’ in London.

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hard times, especially in the last year due to
Covid. We donate £1 from every bottle sold.
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India finally gets its first wave of seltzers.

Introducing Barneys Hard Seltzer, India’s first

refreshing alternative to beer, wine and cocktails. The
drink is a zero sugar/ low calorie alcoholic product
crafted precisely with elements like jasmine and
lemongrass, making the blends premium and unique
at world level.

Since its launch in Goa in January’22, Barneys has

garnered immediate attention. Currently available in
three flavours, Barneys has lined up another three for
near future. After receiving aggressive sales enqui-
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expand rapidly by raising about $10M, aiming to
touch $150M topline by 2024.

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OZE N LI FE M A A D H O O WICKHA MS
This five-star hotel, set among the Among a plethora of wines sold at
exotic turquoise hues and white sandy Wickhams (which also sells spirits) is the

SERVICES
beaches of South Malé Atoll, Maldives, ‘Garden of Italy Selection’ from the Emilia-
is home to five restaurants and two bars. Romagna region of Italy. £69.99 for six
theozencollection.com bottles. wickhamwine.co.uk

G STA A D FO N D U E H E R M A N O S C O LOM B I A N LE G RU Y È R E AO P
BAC K PAC K C O FFE E ROA STE R S With a history dating back to 1115, this
This backpack comes with cheese fondue Kurumukis, the signature bean from mature and full-bodied hard cheese, from
(classic or with truffle), bread, a stove, a Hermanos Colombian Coffee Roasters, has the Swiss town of Gruyères, is one of the
fondue pot and spices. From 18 CHF (£15) hazelnut and chocolatey notes. £10.50 for country’s culinary masterpieces.
per person. gstaad.ch/fondueland 250g. hermanoscoffeeroasters.com gruyere.com

S PLIT- DA L M ATI A C O U NT Y I N V E ST N O RTH E R N K A N SA I

The Central Dalmatia region of Croatia is IREL AND From Michelin-starred restaurants to local
home to an abundance of UNESCO sites, Northern Ireland is home to world-class fisherman’s inns serving up fresh platters of
rich tradition and intriguing history. The distilleries that blend traditional methods sashimi, the Japanese prefecture of Kyoto is
region encompasses Split, Trogir, Ciovo, with innovative techniques to create new a culinary paradise. the-kansai-guide.com/
Solin and Omis. dalmatia.hr flavours and tasting tours. buynifood.com en/summary/area/kyoto/
T H E I N S TAG R A M M E R

@samarasfood
THI S MONTH, WE’RE FOLLOWING SA M AR A ALKHA M M ACH,
A SYRIAN-PALESTINIAN FOOD BLOGGER LIVING IN CAIRO

What kind of food did you eat

growing up?
Our kitchen was always very
diverse. I grew up in Kuwait, and
my family cooked mostly Syrian
and Palestinian food, but with
some Kuwaiti, Filipino and
Egyptian influences.

What are some of your favourite

Syrian and Palestinian dishes?
That’s a tough one! My favourite
Syrian dishes are kousa mahshi
(stuffed courgette), sfeeha (flatbread
cooked with mincemeat and
spices) and freekeh with chicken.
For Palestinian, I’d say musakhan
(sumac chicken with onions and
flatbread), makloubeh (rice with
lamb) and mana’eesh (flatbread
topped with za’atar and olive oil).

What are your favourite cuisines?

I’m a huge fan of Asian food
— Indian, Chinese, Korean... you
name it! But Middle Eastern is my
number one.

Where do you get inspiration for

your recipes?
Mostly through family stories and
memories and my love for recreating
childhood dishes. I also get a lot
of inspiration from social media,
especially Instagram and Pinterest.

W H O SA M A R A I S FO LLOW I N G Where are some of your favourite

places to eat in Cairo?
@mxriyum @almondandfig @oatsandthyme @mrsclueless I like a mix of cuisines and enjoy
I really love Mariam’s Mai posts delicious Bread enthusiast I love Tina’s both casual and fine dining places.
super-cosy recipe recipes with a Maha dreams up authentic recipes. Some of my favourites are Eish +
videos, not to modern twist from the most creative, She posts a mix of Malh (Italian) in Downtown, Ibn Al
mention her her homeland, nutritious recipes. sweet and savoury Sham in Rehab (Syrian) and Kazoku
excallent song Palestine. Her I find her videos dishes — including (Japanese) in New Cairo.
choices and her photography really relaxing a few from her
general vibe. is gorgeous. to watch. native Lebanon. What destination is on your
culinary wishlist?
Definitely Mexico! The culture,
spices, flavours... what’s not to love?

Who do you look up to in food?

I really can’t name just one person.
I’d say I look up to and learn from
my family more than anyone else
— especially my mum and aunt.

N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO.U K / F O O D -T R AV EL 129
ON THE TABLE
What we’ve been enjoying in the world of food and travel

I ’ V E B E E N E AT I N G . . .
I ’ V E B E E N D I N I N G AT. . .
The piquant peanut rayu
Wood & Water in Brixton, London, the from Dublin-based White
brainchild of restaurateur April Jackson. Mausu. A mix of chilli
oil, chopped peanuts,
Standout dishes from the British-Jamaican sesame and garlic, just a
menu include slow-cooked goat croquettes little dollop really peps
up a steaming bowl of
and salted cod with breadfruit and ackee, but noodles or sticky sushi
it’s the seared duck breast with jerk and rum- rice. Connor McGovern,
contributing editor
infused plums that’s the real showstopper.
Farida Zeynalova, assistant editor I’VE BEEN DRINKING...
Hattiers Premium Reserve Rum. Admittedly,
there aren’t many rums I don’t love, but
this blend of aged rums, made in Devon,
is complex and pleasantly spiced, and has
seen me through the cold winter months.
Glen Mutel, editor

I’VE BEEN READING...

The Little Book of Vegan Bakes
by Holly Jade (£20, Ebury Press),
which is packed with recipes
for perfect plant-based cakes,
cookies and more. I’ll be making
the lemon meringue pie for my
next dinner party. Nicola Trup,
deputy editor

T H R E E TO T RY
Greek-Cypriot Easter breads

1 Flaounes
Bread filled with cheese and
raisins, and flavoured with mastika
(mastic resin), mahleb and mint.

2 Koulouria
A pretzel-shaped pastry
with sesame and aniseed.
Perfect with milky tea.
Where’s your favourite beer garden?

T H E RO E B U C K I N N , T H E FA LT E R I N G THE PUMP HOUSE , 3 Tsoureki

Sweet,
IMAGES: JONATHAAN SHARP; GETTY

CHESHIRE F U L L B AC K , LO N D O N B R I S TO L egg-rich bread

Potting-shed chic with The overgrown, lush This tranquil beer garden seasoned with
flower buckets and herb outdoor space has opposite Bristol Harbour orange zest,
beds, this leafy spot tables and chairs is ideal for a roast while mastika or
is perfect for summer arranged over several admiring the swans. mahleb.
evenings. Sarah Barrell, storeys. Nora Wallaya, Charlotte Wigram-Evans, Maria Pieri,
contributing editor deputy digital editor content editor editorial director

130 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO.U K / F O O D -T R AV EL
RAZOR SHARP
CARBON NEGATIVE
LIFETIME WARRANTY

20% OFF
We believe that cookware, like food, should be good for you
and for the planet. That’s why we compensate all CO2 emitted
to produce, ship, and recycle our knives 10 times over.

Learn more about our knives at www.barecookware.com use code SPRING22 at checkout
Let ’s age
gracef ul ly
together
© EuroCave - 01/2022 - Non contractual visual - RCS B 500 258 330

M A N U FACT U R E D
IN FRANCE
www.eurocave.co.uk

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NGT Food 20220303

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NGT Food 20220303

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SOUTHERN CLASSIC

AROUND THE WORLD IN

N ATI O N A LG EO G R A PH I C .CO.U K /FO O D -TR AV E L

ozenlife-maadhoo.com Part of THE OZEN COLLECTION @ozenlife-maadhoo

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Exploring the spicy, distinct cuisine

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National Geographic Partners International Publishing

Interim Editor-in-Chief, Senior Vice President:

Glen Mutel, editor

W H AT ’ S O N LI N E AT N ATI O N A LG E O G R A PH I C .C O.U K /FO O D -TR AV E L

Plant-based perfection Tasty trends Reggie’s favourites

Pairing wine and ice

1 The London Review Bookshop, London

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3 The Hours Cafe & Bookshop, Brecon

4 White Rose Book Cafe, Thirsk

5 Scarthin Books, Cromford

From top: The London Review Cake Shop; soup and

Taste the north

Lena Flaten, Flamman. (photo: Tina Stafrén)

Photo: Wil Lee-Wright / Oi! Trøndersk Mat og Drikke

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Monte Cristo (French toast

The origins of bánh mì lie in the

INGREDIENTS FOR THE PORK

Taken from Vietnamese: Simple Vietnamese Food to Cook

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Big Esso is home to an ‘Indigenous INGREDIENTS

Add the cream and strawberry gum sugar

Experience the world through food and travel

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PRO D U C I N G VA N I L L A I S A R E A L L A B O U R O F LOV E , B U T I N SÃO TOM É A N D

Clockwise from above:

Lecsó Paprikás csirke

Spicy chilli French

Naz Deravian’s should take 20-25 mins. You’ll feel

18th-century recipe book, which she makes

2 Mercado Benito Juárez,

5 Khari Baoli, Delhi, India

are heaped in huge sacks. It’s hectic,

• 5 I S SU E S OF NATIONAL G EOG R APH IC TR AVELLER (U K )

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High in Austria’s Alpine Tyrol region, chefs and wirts

“Further, further, further!

Benjamin Parth’s porcini in a rösti ‘coat’

INGREDIENTS 4 semi-dried cherry tomatoes

From left: A classic

WORDS: SAR A ROAHEN. PHOTOGR APHS: ANT DUNCAN

1719 1762 1824 1979

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