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The river here rises and falls daily and nightly almost with the
regularity of the tide, not ordinarily more than a foot or two, this
being due to the effect of the sun on the snows of the mountains;
the warmer the day the higher the water. At night many men in
parties of from twenty-five to fifty are here engaged in digging
canals to drain the bed of the river at low water. I learn however
that they are greatly hindered in this by numerous springs in the
bottom of the river, and though there is no doubt a great deal of
gold, the difficulties of getting it without machinery are more than
can be realized by any one who has not been here and tried.

The buzzards in this upper country are just pairing. I have seen
three or four couples of the California vulture but have not secured
one yet.

The bar which was dug here last year is now under water, but I
am told it was very profitable and many made five or six thousand
from their summer's work. There are many here waiting for the
plains to dry and snows to melt, when Hawkin's celebrated bar may
again be worked. While I am here, I may as well try to give an idea
of how the work is done. When a spot has been selected the digger
opens a pit, ordinarily four to six feet deep, but sometimes only the
top soil has to be removed before the digger can commence
washing; this depends on whether he comes to soil tenacious
enough to hold the gold, and keep it from sinking down through
light, sandy, or porous soils, until it meets with a formation which
prevents it from going deeper into the earth. Sometimes in such
places are found large deposits called "pockets," and doubtless there
are still many to be discovered. When suitable soil is found the
digger takes a panful for washing, and with doubt and anxiety goes
to the nearest water to see if his "hole" will pay. He stirs the earth
and sand in his pan around, until all the soluble part floats off over
the sides of the pan, which is kept under water; he then begins
shaking backwards and forwards with a regular movement what is
left in his pan, to settle what gold is in it; the gold sinks and all the
lighter gravel is tipped to the sides, and the gold is quite below all
except the black sand, so like emery that when the gold is very fine
it is a great drawback, and difficult to separate. Should the digger
find gold enough to warrant his washing the clay at the bottom of
his pit, and thereby gaining half an ounce a day he goes on washing,
but grumbles at his hard luck, hoping that as he gets deeper in his
hole he will get richer also, and that when he comes to rock, he may
find a "pocket." The cradle is set up, the water poured over, and the
monotony of the digger's life begins, a sort of voluntary treadmill
occupation, until homesick and tired, even if successful, he ties up
his wallet which contains his wealth, secretes it about his body, and
tramps off. A man who is usually successful, and there are not so
many, may have acquired five or six thousand dollars, but he has
usually aged ten years.

April 5th. Leaving Hawkin's Bar for Green Springs, we sauntered


along the trail under the beautiful post-oaks, just now in their
greatest beauty, with leaves half-grown and pendant catkins. Now
we shot a partridge or a hare, or stopped to let "Riley," our pack
mule, luxuriate in some little patch of rich grass, in which he stood
knee deep. Overhead we saw the heavy, sweeping motion of the
vulture's wing, or watched his silent circles. Around us are flowers
innumerable, brilliant, soft, modest, fragrant, to suit all fancies, till,
having finished our eight-mile journey, the sun began to cast its
evening light over the landscape, for we had started late. Layton had
rejoined me, and we set up our tent and I made a sketch.

April 6th. Four o'clock found us on our way back to Hawkin's, to


meet a friend of Layton's, N. Howard, who was to be our
companion. It was cloudy but beautiful, and at Wedgewood's tent
we found our friend, and shelter, of which we were glad, as rain was
beginning to fall and soon came down in torrents, swelling the little
brook near the tents to a roaring stream.
April 8th. After being delayed by rain, our trio started for Don
Pedro's Bar, eight miles down the Tuolomne. The country to look at
is most beautiful, and our short walk was one of pleasure and
admiration.

April 9th. This morning we crossed the river and after a trot of
about five miles came to the cañon. I made my way to the lower
end called Indian Bluff and my sketch was finished by probably five
o'clock; but having no watch I cannot tell. Here I saw the nests of
the California vulture, but on the opposite side of the river, now an
impassable torrent.

The country on the south side of this river, where we are, is very
hilly, the soil tolerable, and the trees still post-oak. We leave for
Stockton tomorrow.

April 10th. The road was pleasant on our way back to Green
Springs and for a mile further, and when evening came we pitched
our "line" tent, and commenced cooking our supper. We had a
California hare, a mallard and a plover, all killed out of season, but
food we must have. Howard boasted of his coffee, Layton is the
baker of the mess, whilst I parboiled my slices of pork to rid it of its
coarse flavor, fried out the lard, and have turned and re-turned the
loin and hindlegs of our hare. "Riley" safely tethered near us had an
equally good supper of the grass and flowers that were to be his
bed, and we spread our blankets and went to sleep, or rather the
other two have done so, and I, writing by the firelight, shall soon
follow their example.

April 11th. Our road today was almost the same that I had
travelled with the company going from Stockton to Chinese Camp or
diggings, but how changed the scene. The road then was soft mud
and mire for miles; now it is as hard as brick, and the hills then
scarcely tinged with green by the early sprouting vegetation are now
fresh and beautiful with every shade of green and brilliant flowers of
all colors. At every rise of ground we paused and turned to look back
at the range of the Sierra Nevada softening and mellowing in the
hazy light of the sun, the brilliancy enhanced by the deepening blue
of the distant hills which form the last outline on the eastern
horizon.

Here I tried my hand again at oil painting for landscape, but can
only blot in what will answer hereafter to give me local color. After
painting about three hours we packed up and started again, as there
was no water near us, and took our direction westerly. We found the
beds of the streams that in January were beautiful little rivulets, now
bright sand bleaching in the sun, their waters dried up or only a tiny
trickle. As we descended from one table land to another the rich
vegetation became broken by spots of barrenness, and at times
whole plains of weeds, not strong and rank showing fertile land, but
coarse, noxious, ungainly with disgusting smell, extended for three
or four miles and we followed the dusty road almost feeling that we
were again on our terrible journey through Mexico last summer.

All these valleys along the river look more fertile in winter than
at this season, as the wet and moisture gives the appearance of
richness, which is now completely dissipated by the already parched-
up effect of the land.

To give you some little idea of the changes occurring in this


country: the ferry we crossed last winter (and could only be taken
over after great bargaining for a dollar each), we crossed today, all
three of us, and our mule for the same sum of one dollar. So at the
mines, the same change has taken place; last year an ounce was
considered the average of the produce of good working men per
diem; this year half an ounce is considered the average, by equally
good and better skilled workmen. The people at home will not
believe that the roads are travelled by a continuous line of miners;
some on foot, some with packs, mules, wagons, in search of "better
luck."

The snows are melting so fast just now that the river is within
two feet of being as high as when I crossed in the winter just after
two nights of rain; then it was muddy, and anyone could see was not
in a natural state, now though almost as rapid and deep its clear
waters do not give the angry look it had then—so much for summer
and its softening effects.

The road from Stanislaus over broad prairies of poor sandy soil
extends for miles until nearing the edge of the line of beautiful old
oaks that fringe French Creek and its swamps; then the earth
becomes richer and sends up a growth of clover and beautiful grass
knee high, until you reach Stockton. Indeed all the best lands of the
San Joaquin River are admirably suited for planting with proper
drainage and cultivation.

The sea breeze at this season is cold and searching, keeping the
thermometer at 60 degrees and 62 degrees for days; when a lull
comes the heat is at once oppressive, and the mercury rises to 80
degrees or 85 degrees, and the heat dances before us almost in
palpable shapes; the water all stagnant sends its odor of decaying
vegetation everywhere, accompanied by myriads of mosquitoes.
These conditions exist for miles over the east side, towards the
mountains of the San Joaquin.

April 16th. I am still at Stockton making various excursions with


Layton and his friend Howard from New Orleans, and sketching
constantly and steadily. I am indeed crowding all sail to start for
home on the steamer which sails on June 1st, with Capt. Patterson. I
have made nearly ninety careful sketches, and many hasty ones, the
most interesting I have been able to find in these southern mines,
and expect to leave in a few days for Sacramento.

Stockton, April 18th. I am hardly fit to write for I have just had
most melancholy news from Simson. Lieut. Browning, my dear and
devoted friend; to whom I owe a debt of gratitude which I can never
pay, for his friendship and kindness to me last year, from the hour
that he took my hand on the accursed Rio Grande River until we
parted in San Francisco, has been drowned. With Lieuts. Bache and
Blunt he was examining the coast near Trinidad Bay, and on
attempting to land, the boat "broached to" in the breakers and
capsized. Five were drowned, among them Lieuts. Browning and
Bache. Thus is added another victim to our ill-fated expedition.
Strange that from first to last we have been so fatally followed. Night
after night Browning and I shared the same tent, the same blankets;
we knew each [other] well, we were friends.

April 23d. The whole country to the north and east of Stockton
through to the Calaveras is most rich and splendid soil, but in many
places too low for farming, but the grazing was excellent, quantities
of wild oats, rye grass (I think), clover and a species resembling red-
top. In many places the grasses were breast high as I waded
through them but generally full knee-deep. As we neared the
Calaveras we lost our way trying to avoid some bad arroyos, and
followed a trail off to the eastward, perhaps three miles, and the
country if changed at all, changed for the better. Finding the trend of
the trail we were following did not suit our ideas of direction, we
turned back at even more than a right angle, and in half an hour
entered a wood of open timber, with here and there a lagoon or
quagmire of mud and mire; but we worked through and Layton went
ahead to reconnoitre, and in about twenty minutes reported the
river, which we followed down on a good firm cattle trail, and in half
an hour more had come to the upper settlement of the ferry, and
were stopped by the fences of newly made farms, and again driven
to the swamps to get only a few hundred yards down to the ferry.

We crossed the river after having assisted some Germans with


about six hundred sheep, and camped for the night tired enough,
having made only about ten miles, but walked nearly twenty of hard
travel.

April 24th. As the traveller leaves the north side of the Calaveras
and rises higher, the ground becomes cold and has a bluish-looking
clay for the road, almost as hard as soft brick, and more tenacious;
there are streaks of sandy soil, and in a few places good land; this is
scarce however, between the Calaveras and Mokulumne where the
Sacramento road crosses the plain. The last three miles of the road
is through a pleasant, half-wooded country of live-oak and a few
varieties of other shrubs, for the whole of the wood is small.

The sandy road was a great relief to us after the lumpy one of
the morning, and we tramped merrily on, until we reached the
Mokulumne, and saw a comfortable (for this country), log and jacal
built house, and passing about two hundred yards further on, spread
our blankets under some half dozen magnificent oaks, and after
washing away the dust and heat in the clear, cold little river, very
rapid but smooth, ate our lunch of fried pork and bread, and
stretched ourselves out to rest for an hour, when we packed up, and
being ferried across in a pretty good flat-boat, the only one between
Stockton and Sacramento, we continued our walk to Dry Creek over
just the same description of country we had had in the morning; but
it became more sandy if anything, and towards evening was more of
a rolling country. Before we camped for the night we swam "Riley"
across a creek about twenty feet wide, and paid one dollar and fifty
cents for ourselves and belongings to cross in a sort of canoe, which
took us about five minutes.
At the ferry house was a comfortable looking woman with four
little children, one an infant; like the Texans she told us they had
plenty of cattle, but only one milch cow, so we went on.

April 25th. This morning mounting a slight rise of ground we at


once found ourselves on a high dry, too dry, prairie, facing a bracing
northwest wind, just strong enough to feel it stirring up our spirits,
and we went cheerily on for about eight miles to a bridge, crossed it,
and for about two miles had a succession of sloughs to cross, some
boggy, some quicksand, others we had to swim. By carefully
sounding we kept our packs dry in crossing, and safely reached the
back of Murphy's corral, where I skinned a magpie I had shot, and
Layton took a nap. We then went to admire Mr. Murphy's fine stock
of brood mares, and the young horses he is raising. At three in the
afternoon we packed and left for Sacramento City, keeping to the
road for eight miles, when we came to a wood where we collected
sufficient fuel for our evening cooking, and went on two miles or so
to a lagoon of excellent water, and camped. We had no tent poles,
so did as we had done often before, spread one side of the tent on
the ground and laid our blankets on that, and covered ourselves with
the other part; a corner was put over my gun used as a pole, which
gave a place to sit, and also protected our solitary candle from the
wind, so we ate our supper in comfort, and enjoyed a kill-deer and a
couple of snipe we had shot.

We did not hear a sound but the croakings of hundreds of frogs


from the pond by our side. Our long campings out had accustomed
us to solitudes like this, but on our desolate, half starving march of
last year, doubt, anxiety, yes and fear, had always taken from the
complete enjoyment of such freedom as this. The country was so
flat that the horizon was lost even in the bright moonlight, and the
perfect silence, the pure cloudless sky overhead, the quiet little lake,
tended to make everything full of solemnity and peace.
April 26th. This morning half a gale was blowing from the
northwest and we were glad to wear our blanket coats until the sun
warmed up the earth. We reached "Sutter's Fort" at noon, and lay
down under the adobe wall to take our lunch. I was disappointed in
the view I had hoped to take; here, on a boundless plain, with two
or three hospitals around it, stands a sort of rancho, not so good in
many respects as those of New Mexico, but all in the same style, the
sides being a series of rooms, one corner being better fitted up for
the rancher and his family.

Under some grand old oaks three hundred feet to the eastward,
is a cemetery containing a number of graves all made, they tell me,
last year when miners and emigrants alike succumbed to illness
brought on in many cases by exposure, poor food, and, in some
cases, doubtless by disappointed hopes.

Sacramento City is a country village built on a flat point,


between a lagoon and the river just below the junction of American
River, so low as to be eighteen inches under average high water
mark. It has been a source of such speculations as '36 never heard
of. I was shown a plot of some half-dozen half lots, which cost last
fall two hundred and fifty dollars. The gentleman who owned them,
Dr. Pierson, told me he had sold two of them, about a quarter of the
whole, for three thousand five hundred dollars, after holding them
six months. Truly people did come to California to make money, and
some made it, but California will for the present lower the moral
tone of all who come here.

There are few refining influences and men become coarse and
profane in language, while the hard life does not improve the
temper; the sight of the gold they see dug, and the fortunes they
hear of that have been made in months, some few even in weeks,
make them avaricious.
Many lots of land, valued last year at one thousand dollars, are
now valued at ten thousand dollars, but sooner or later the fall must
come.

Sutter's Fort appears to have been built with great care as to its
means of defence, though at first sight a visitor would be puzzled to
know why it was called a fort at all; closer examination shows that it
once had, from all appearances, four square towers, some twenty-
five feet high, one at each corner, each tower mounting four,
eighteen, or at most, twenty-four pound carronades, and the effect
of these on the Indians was all that was required for protection, for
the Indians here are a very low class and poor race, far inferior to
the eastern tribes, and like the Mexicans cowardice is their chief
trait, or at least their most prominent one; and if Mr. Sutter could
have had twenty faithful followers, he must have been "monarch of
all he surveyed."

The swampy neighborhood, bad atmosphere, and malarial


conditions must render this section of country unhealthy to a great
degree for half the year; for as autumn comes on the daily supply of
freshly-melted snow-water from the mountains will no longer purify
the lagoons and bayous of the vicinity.
"A Dry Gulch" at Coloma, Sutter's Mills
May 2, 1850

Fever and ague is very prevalent now, and dysentery feared by


all. Many of the farmers I find here tell me they are only working to
get money enough to get back with, and that nothing would induce
them to settle here. They have unfortunately not seen the lower part
of the valley and what lies about Los Angeles and to the southward
—that is the flower of California.
April 29th. Alas, is it for good or for bad luck, that I have just
learned that Layton and myself cannot travel with safety across the
country here, as below, on account of the ill-will of the Indians, and
that a party of less than six will be unsafe up and across the middle
fork of the American River. How stories of Indians are told to every
traveller. Though often near them, I have never found any who were
not greater cowards than myself, and we leave today for Sutter's
Mills, Georgetown, etc., in good health and spirits.

May 4th. Coloma. "Sutter's Mills" is about fifty miles [distant],


nearly east of Sacramento. The road to it after passing the first four
or five miles runs through a sandy soil, covered at present with what
we call "sneeze-weed." There is no water, until after leaving the
river, American Fork, we crossed a pretty little "spring branch" as it
would be called in Louisiana. The grass is sparse and poor along the
whole route, and the face of nature looks like August in the eastern
states, so completely that as the refreshing cool breezes come to us
each morning, I almost fancy it is the first of September. But in the
valleys and on the hillsides the heat is most oppressive, though, as
in England, if you stand still for only a few moments in the shade,
you soon feel chilled through.

The valley here is not as wide as at Stockton by at least twenty


miles, and the grand masses of snow covered mountains seem
almost within a day of you, whilst south you still have distance to
give additional enchantment to the view. The oaks here are small,
not more than from eighteen inches to two feet in diameter; if the
soil in which they grew had any richness, I should say the whole
forest was of forty years growth at most, but for the occasional
presence of a grove of magnificent pines, from a hundred to nearly
two hundred feet high. I have measured many at the angle on the
ground and have proved it with rods so that I know I am very nearly
correct in my statement.
May 6th. Crossing the river at Coloma, on a good bridge, we
commenced our ascent of the long and in many places very steep
hill. We found a start at dawn would have been much better than at
ten, which it now was, as our poor mule "Riley" felt the heat greatly;
but with occasional pauses up we went, passing wrecked wagons
and broken pack-saddles in several of the narrow parts of the
cañons that the road wound through. We were not sorry when we
found we had reached the last hill and mounted it, hoping to be
repaid by some distant view, but on no side could we see more than
a few miles; and we journeyed on, wondering who would be[40] at
the mushroom town, Coloma, renowned for being the place where
gold was first found by the whites.

We were told that Captain Sutter had made a large fortune by


digging gold with many of the Indians he had about him; how true
the story is, of course, I cannot say.

[No date.] Starting early we had time enough to reach


Georgetown, and after the first few miles, were pleased to see a
most favorable change in the forest we passed through. A better
class of white oaks appeared, and following up a beautiful little creek
we gradually came to a pine growth large and magnificent; both
yellow and white pine were there, also the long coned pine, and
many superb cedars over a hundred feet high. In many places these
trees were felled, and split into laths and joists so straight and fine
that but little dressing was requisite to fit them for the buildings here
constructed, frame houses one story high. I saw some maples, very
like what we call "soft" maple, an elm or two, and many specimens
of Nuttall's splendid dogwood in full bloom.

The ultramarine jay is here by dozens, robins, fly catchers,


chats, finches by hundreds. I see daily new birds and plants that a
year's steady work could not draw, but if our government would
send good men, what a work of national pride could be brought out!
Geology, botany, entomology, zoölogy, etc. The views are frequently
superb, and the hemlocks and pines of many species most beautiful.

We reached Georgetown—two rows of poor houses and sheds.


The houses all one story, but some with piazzas, and here we took
our supper at the "Pine settlement" as it is called.
APPENDIX
LIST OF MEMBERS OF THE ORIGINAL
COMPANY[41]

[Extract from the New York "Evening Express," February 9, 1849.]

A company of young men started yesterday afternoon, who, under


the command of Major H. L. Webb and J. W. Audubon, will take the
land route via Corpus Christi, Monterey, etc., to the gold regions of
California. The whole company will number one hundred. Thirty-five
or forty went from Philadelphia yesterday.

They proceed direct to Cairo, which is the rendez-vous of the


party; here they will be joined by companies from the West. At New
Orleans or thereabouts as most convenient, they will purchase
mules, horses and all necessary equipments, each man finding his
own outfit.

We append a list of the names of those who go from here in this


company, so far as known.

Audubon, John W.
Ayres, Venancia
Bachman, Jacob H.
Barclay, William B.
Benson, Leffert L.
Benson, Robert, Jr.
Black, John A.
Bloomfield, John J.
Boden, Hamilton J.
Brady, Henry
Brady, John
Cararley, John
Clement, James B.
Combs, Frederick S.
Cowden, Henry
Cree, William J.
Damon, Luke
Davis, Geradus T.
Delancy, John
Doubleday, Ulysses
Elmslie, James D.
Ely, Justin, Jr.
Graham, Charles Montrose
Graham, A. Clason
Graham, A. Spencer
Hall, Thomas H., Jr.
Havens, Langdon H.
Hinckley, Lyman T.
Hudson, David
Hutchinson, William A.
Kashon, Israel
Kearney, John, M. D.
Lambert, Edward A.
Lambert, John B.
Lambert, John S.
Lambert, Joseph
Lambert, J. Robert
Lee, Augustus T.
Liscomb, Samuel H.
Liscomb, William H.
Mallory, Henry C.
McCusker, Peter
McGown, Andrew J.
Molinear, William D.
Nevin, Andrew M.
Osgood, E. W.
Plumb, John H.
Powell, Emmett
Rodgers, J. Kearney, Jr.
Sherwood, James W.
Sherwood, Richard W.
Shipman, Aaron T.
Sloat, Lewis M.
Steele, George D.
Stevens, John
Stille, Henry
Stivers, Daniel A.
Stivers, William D.
Tallman, Harmon
Tone, John H.
Trask, John B., M. D.
Valentine, Charles
Valentine, Thomas B.
Valentine, Matthias B.
Van Buren, George T.
Watkinson, Joseph S.
Walsh, Nicholas J.
Warner, James
Webb, Edward C.
Webb, Watson
Weed, George
Whittlesey, Gilbert B.
Whittlesey, William
Williamson, Isaac H.
Winthrop, Francis B.
INDEX
Abert, Lieut. James W., 142.
Alamito, 95.
Alamo River, 74, 76.
Altar, 16, 143-145.
American River, 233, 237.
Angel's Diggings, 210.
Aquafrio, 85.
Arizona, 154-165.
Audubon, Caroline Hall, 26.
Audubon, John James, 21-28, 35, 41.
Audubon, John Woodhouse, 12, 14-18, 241, 242;
memoir, 21-38;
Journal, 41-240.
Audubon, Lucy, 26.
Audubon, Lucy Bakewell, 21-25, 27.
Audubon, Maria Bachman, 26.
Audubon, Victor Gifford, 22, 25, 36.
Ayres, Venancia, 169, 195, 242.
Bachman, Jacob H., 75, 83, 85, 168, 169, 174, 199, 242.
Bakewell, Howard, 61, 64, 65, 204.
Bakewell, W. G., 46, 48.
Baltimore, 14, 44.
Barclay, William B., 70, 242.
Barratt, ——, 119, 140.
Bartlett, John Russell, 84, 168.
Benson, Leffert L., 61, 70, 242.
Benson, Robert, Jr., 58, 61, 70, 242.
Berthoud, Nicholas, 22.
Birds, 56, 86, 111, 146;
bald-pates, 175;
buzzards, 221;
Caracara eagles, 139;
chats, 239;
cliff swallow, 129;
finches, 202, 239;
fly catchers, 239;
gadwalls, 175;
geese, 183, 184, 185, 216;
hawk, 182;
heron, 111, 185;
jay, 182, 202, 239;
mallard, 224;
partridge, 159, 223;
plover, 224;
quail, 202;
raven, 203;
robin, 202, 239;
sandhill cranes, 183;
vulture, 176, 182, 221, 223, 224;
woodpecker, 128, 182, 202.
"Birds of America," 23, 36-37.
Black, John A., 106, 115, 195, 242.
Bloomfield, John J., 75, 195, 197, 242.
Boden, Hamilton J., 60, 61, 63, 116, 204, 242.
Boggs, Biddle, 51, 138, 153, 187, 195.
Brady, Henry, 61, 70, 242.
Brady, John, 61, 70, 242.
Brazos, 50, 51.
Brice, Maj. Benjamin W., 52.
Browning, Lieut., U. S. N., 34, 71, 77, 78, 79, 81, 85, 94, 102,
120, 125, 170, 171, 179, 193, 195, 197, 228.
Brownsville, 15, 45, 51-55.
Buena Vista, 16, 91.
Cactus, 93, 136, 142, 157.
Cairo (Illinois), 15, 46, 241.
Calaveras, 207, 209, 229, 230.
Caldwell, Lieut. James N., 69.
California, 11, 13, 165-240.
Camargo, 58.
Camels, 12.
Campbell, Dr., 63-66, 72, 73, 77.
Camp Ringgold. See Ringgold.
Cararley, John, 242.
Carrol, Frank, 85, 92, 106, 110, 111.
Carson's Creek, 213.
Cerralvo, 84.
Cerro Gordo, 99-100.
Cerro Prieto, 118.
Chapman, Maj. Wm. Warren, 50, 55.
China (Mexico), 58.
Chinese Diggings, 200, 202, 203, 204, 209, 216, 217, 225.
Cholera, 14-16, 50, 58-71, 74, 94, 105.
Cincinnati, 45.
Circus, 100, 102.
Clement, James B., 29, 33, 51, 61, 70, 77, 140, 195, 199, 204,
242.
Cole, Thomas, 138.
Collier, Col. James, 165, 167.
Coloma, 17, 237, 238, 239.
Colorado River, 16, 163.
Combs, Frederick S., 74, 75, 242.
Concepcion, 113.
Conchos River, 110.
Cooke, Col. Philip St. George, 155
Cooke's Wells, 166.
Couts, Cave Johnson, 161, 163, 164.
Cowden, Henry, 70, 242.
Coyote, 211, 212, 213.
Cree, William J., 174, 195, 242.
Creosote plant, 158.
Cumberland, 14, 44.
Damon, Luke, 75, 195, 242.
Davis, Clay, 68, 69, 77, 78.
Davis, Geradus T., 242.
Davis's Rancho, 55, 59, 64, 71, 104.
Delancy, John, 242.
Don Pedro's Bar, 224.
Doubleday, Ulysses, 83, 85, 242.
Dry Creek, 230.
Elmslie, James D., 70, 83, 85, 195, 242.
El Pozo, 94.
El Valle, 102.
Ely, Justin, Jr., 61, 70, 242.
Exchange Hotel, 187.
Florida, Rio, 101.
Follen, ——, 61, 70.
Frejoles, 137.
Fremont, John C., 142.
French Camp, 187.
French Creek, 227.
Frenchtown, 44.
Gabilana, 117.
Gaines, Gen. Edmund Pendleton, 48.
Gambling, 177, 188, 193, 196, 197, 206, 214.
Georgetown, 17, 237, 239, 240.
Gila valley, 155-163.
Gold, discovery of, 11, 13.
Gold-fields, 199-240.
Graham, A. Clason, 242.
Graham, A. Spencer, 242.
Graham, Charles Montrose, 91-92, 242.
Graham, Col. James D., 155.
Grasshoppers, as food, 150.
Green Springs, 223, 224.
Hall, Thomas H., Jr., 242.
Harrison, W. H., 59, 61, 64, 65, 67.
Havens, Langdon H., 33, 62, 71, 111, 138, 165, 174, 193, 195,
242.
Hawkins's Bar, 217, 218, 221, 223.
Hays, Col. John C., 29, 75.
Hewes, ——, 195.
Hidalgo. See Parral.
Hinckley, Lyman T., 59, 105, 138, 195, 242.
Horde, ——, 68, 71.
"Hounds," 188.
Howard, N., 223, 224, 228.
Hudson, David, 62, 75, 127, 185, 187, 195, 199, 242.
Hutchinson, William A., 195, 242.
Independence (Missouri), 13, 14.
Indian Bluff, 224.
Islip's, 199.
Jamestown, 215.
Jesus Maria, 120-122.
Kashon, Israel, 242.
Kearney, John, M. D., 72, 242.
Kearny, Gen. Stephen W., 13, 16.
Kingsland, Daniel C. and Ambrose, 14, 31, 34.
Labrador, 24.
La Cadena, 97.
Lambert, Edward A., 106, 195, 242.
Lambert, John Booth, 58-59, 242.
Lambert, John Robert, 195, 242.
Lambert, John S., 106, 195, 242.
Lambert, Joseph, 106, 195, 242.
La Motte, Maj. Joseph H., 55, 67, 71.
"Landmarks Club," 180.
Laurel Hill, 45.
Layton, Robert, 17, 130, 163, 195, 206, 217, 223, 224, 228,
229, 231, 237.
La Zarca, 98.
Lee, Augustus T., 174, 195, 242.
Liscomb, Samuel H., 63, 66, 105, 110, 195, 242.
Liscomb, William H., 61, 65, 242.
Lizards, as food, 150.
Los Angeles, 16, 178, 179, 218, 237.
Luis Rey, 175-176.
Maguey, 72, 89.
Mallory, Henry C., 33, 82, 107, 108, 163, 179, 190, 193, 195,
242.
Mammals:
Antelope, 98, 112, 183;
black-tailed deer, 181, 202;
California marmot, 112, 175, 202;
elk, 183, 184, 185;
grizzly bear, 202;
hare, black-tailed, 98, 112;
hare, California, 202, 224;
hare, small, 202;
pocket mouse, 149;
squirrels, 202;
wild horses, 185;
wolves, 185.
Mapimi, 16, 96-97.
Marcy, Gen. Randolph B., 168.
Maricopa Indians, 156, 161, 213.
Marin, 85.
Matamoras, 51, 52.
Maybury, ——, 108, 109.
Maximilian, Prince of Wied, 51.
Mazatlan, 88, 142.
McCown, Capt. John Porter, 30, 71, 77, 80.
McCusker, Peter, 195, 242.
McGown, Andrew J., 195, 199, 242.
McLea, ——, 193, 195.
Mescal, 89.
Mesquite, 54.
Meteoric iron, 103.
Mexico, 84-154.
Mier, 82, 83.
Mining at Jesus Maria, 121.
Mining camps, 200.
Mining, methods of, 221-223.
Minniesland, 27.
Missions, 17, 170-171, 175, 176, 177, 180.
Mississippi River, 46-49.
Mitchell, ——, 70, 79, 195.
Mokelumne:
Hill, 208;
mines, 208;
"rich gulch," 208;
river, 230.
Molinear, William D., 92, 242.
Money, stolen, 66-68, 71, 73, 77, 78.
Monterey, 16, 86-87, 195, 241.
Mormon Gulch, 214.
Murray, Lieut. Edward, 172, 173.
Murphy's Diggings, 204, 211.
Murphy's New Diggings, 210.
Nevin, Andrew M., 242.
New Orleans, 15, 48-49, 241.
New York City, 14, 41-43.
Number, in company, 241.
Ord, Lieut. E. O. C., 172.
Oregon trail, 13.
Osgood, E. W., 142, 242.
Papago Indians, 147-152.
Paragarto, 129.
Parral, 16, 102-106.
Parras, 16, 91, 93.
Paso Chapadaro, 116.
Payote, 186, 208, 213.
Pennypacker, ——, 106, 108, 152, 195.
Peons, 89.
Perry, Dr., 92, 174, 195.
Philadelphia, 44, 241.
Pima Indians, 16, 143, 155, 156, 161, 213.
Pitochi, 118.
Pittsburg, 15, 45.
Plumb, John H., 142, 242.
Popagallos, 85.
Powell, Emmett, 243.
Prices, 113, 189.
Pulque, 89.
"Quadrupeds of North America," 27, 30, 36-37.
Ramos, 85.
Rattlesnake, 147.
Rhoades, ——, 117, 119, 181.
Rinconada, 89.
Rinconada Pass, 90.
Ringgold, Camp, 55, 64, 67, 69, 82.
Rio Florida, 101.
Rio Grande City, 15, 55, 59, 62.
Rio Grande (river), 15, 49-83.
Robber's Rancho, 85.
Rocky Mountains, 106-110.
Rodgers, John Kearney, Jr., 47, 72, 243.
Roma, 15, 61, 72.
Routes to California, 13.
Sacramento City, 17, 231, 233, 237.
Salmon, 185.
Saltillo, 16, 88, 90-91.
San Antonio de Bexar, 178.
San Diego, 16, 171, 174, 206.
San Diego Mission, 170.
San Felipe, 168.
San Fernando, 180.
San Francisco, 16, 17, 190, 193, 195.
San Joaquin River, 16, 183, 184, 190, 221, 227.
San Pedro, 178.
Santa Borgia, 118.
Santa Cruz, 110.
Santa Fé trail, 13.
Santa Maria, 170, 206.
Santa Rosa, 135.
Sherwood, James W., 243.
Sherwood, Richard W., 243.
Shipman, Aaron T., 61, 66, 70, 243.
Sierra Nevada, 175, 176, 225.
Simson, Robert, 33, 59, 61, 64, 65, 67, 68, 70, 77, 91, 95, 108,
179, 185, 195, 197, 228.
Sloat, Lewis M., 138, 165, 174, 243.
Sonora (Mexico), 16.
Sonora Camp, 217.
Soyopa, 137.
Stampede, 95.
Stanislaus River, 186, 199, 204, 212, 214, 227.
Steele, George D., 169, 174, 195, 243.
Stevens, John, 33, 61, 63, 64, 70, 163, 169, 174, 195, 197, 243.
Stevenson, John, 195.
Stevenson, Joseph, 128.
Stille, Henry, 243.
Stivers, Daniel A., 243.
Stivers, William D., 243.
Stockton, 16, 186, 187, 190, 195, 197, 199, 202, 206, 207, 225,
227-229, 238.
Suisun Bay, 190.
Sutter, Capt. John A., 239.
Sutter's Fort, 232, 234.
Sutter's Mills, 237.
Table Mountain, 215.
Tallman, Harmon, 61, 70, 243.
Tarahumara Indians, 113, 114.
Teller, ——, 105, 106.
Texas, 11, 29, 41.
Thorn, Capt. Herman, 161, 165.
Tomochic, 115.
Tone, Alice Walsh, 32.
Tone, John H., 32, 33, 110, 195, 205, 243.
Tonichi, 137.
Trask, John B., M. D., 58, 60, 61, 62, 74, 85, 108, 112, 119,
158, 174, 195, 243.
Trees:
Cedars, 239;
cottonwoods, 178, 181;
dogwood, 239;
elm, 239;
hemlocks, 240;
laurel, 206;
maples, 239;
mesquite, 54;
oaks, 178, 185, 206, 227, 230, 233, 238;
oak, live, 200, 230;
oak, post, 200, 201, 218, 223, 224;
oak, swamp, 200;
oak, white, 239;
pines, 201, 206, 210, 238, 239, 240;
redwoods, 196, 206;
sycamores, 178, 206.
Trinidad, 133-134.
Tulare valley, 16, 179, 182.
Tuolumne, 202, 209, 217, 218, 224.
Ures, 16, 139-141.
Valentine, Charles, 243.
Valentine, Matthias B., 243.
Valentine, Thomas B., 243.
Van Buren, George T., 195, 243.
Walnut Springs, 85.
Walsh, Nicholas J., 33, 59, 61, 66, 70, 126-127, 168, 169, 195,
204, 243.
Warner, James, 243.
Watkinson, Joseph S., 114, 174, 195, 243.
Webb, Edward C., 243.
Webb, Col. Henry L., 14, 15, 31, 42, 47, 48, 53, 55, 58, 60, 61,
73, 74, 76, 79, 80, 81, 82, 83, 203, 241.
Webb, Watson, 243.
Weed, George, 91, 157, 169, 195, 243.
West, settlement of, 12.
Whipple, Lieut. Amiel W., 162, 164.
Whittlesey, Edward, 63.
Whittlesey, Gilbert B., 243.
Whittlesey, William, 243.
Williamson, Isaac H., 243.
Winthrop, Francis B., 243.
Wislizenus, Dr. A., 84, 142.
Wood's Creek, 214.
Wood's Diggings, 210, 215, 216, 217.
Yaqui River, 137.
Yorktown, 215.
Yuma Indians, 161, 162, 213.
MAP TO ILLUSTRATE AUDUBON'S
WESTERN JOURNAL
1849-1850

View larger image


FOOTNOTES:
[1] An experiment with camels was tried and proved a failure.

[2] John Porter McCown resigned his commission in 1861 to join


the Confederate army, in which he served through the war as a
major general.—F. H. H.

[3] Frenchtown was the western terminus of the New Castle and
Frenchtown Railroad, one of the first railroads built in the United
States and a part of the early route between the East and the
West. With the passing of the road, the town entirely
disappeared. It was located at the head of the Elk River branch of
Chesapeake Bay, below the present site of Elkton.

[4] Mrs. Alexander Gordon.—M. R. A.

[5] William Warren Chapman was brevetted major for gallant


conduct in the battle of Buena Vista, and died in 1859.

[6] Travels in the Interior of North America, by Maximilian, Prince


of Wied-Neuwied (London, 1843). Reprinted in Thwaites's Early
Western Travels, 1748-1846 (Cleveland, 1905).

[7] Major Benjamin William Brice served through the Civil War in
the paymaster's department and became a major general at its
close.

[8] The mesquit or mesquite is a tree, resembling the locust, of


which there are several species in Mexico and the southwestern
part of the United States.
[9] Camp Ringgold was an American military post below Rio
Grande City. Davis's rancho, mentioned later, was half a mile
above Camp Ringgold.

[10] Joseph Hatch La Motte, brevetted a major for gallant


conduct at Monterey, resigned from the service in 1846 and died
in 1888.

[11] China is located on the Rio San Juan about fifty miles from
the Rio Grande.

[12] Maguey is the Spanish name for the century plant.

[13] Col. John C. Hays, the Texas ranger and Indian fighter, who
won a national reputation at the siege of Monterey. He went to
California in 1849, became first sheriff of San Francisco and
afterward United States surveyor-general for California.

[14] The route from the Rio Grande to the Rio Florida is described
in Wislizenus's "Tour to Northern Mexico," Washington, 1848
(Senate misc. doc. 26, 1st session, 30th Congress) and in
Bartlett's Personal Narrative of Explorations and Incidents in
Texas, New Mexico, California, Sonora and Chihuahua (New York,
1854). Wislizenus was physician in Doniphan's expedition, and
Bartlett was United States Mexican Boundary Commissioner. The
Mexican Atlas of Garcia y Cubas (Mexico City, 1859) furnishes
maps that are nearly contemporary and a list of haciendas.

[15] Cabalgada is properly a troop of mounted men or cavalcade.


The word is here applied to the animals upon which the men are
mounted.

[16] Hidalgo del Parral, marked upon the maps both as Hidalgo
and as Parral, but more commonly the latter.

[17] The Taraumara or more properly the Tarahumara Indians are


described in H. H. Bancroft's Native Races, vol. i, chap. v.

[18] The Cliff Swallow (Petrochelidon lunifrons) is described in


Audubon's Birds of America, ed. 1840, vol. i, p. 177. Audubon
proposed the name Hirundo republicana in 1824, but Say had
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