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 PD
F
Sri Lanka

PDF ebook
Edition 13th Edition
Release Date Jan 2015
Pages 336

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4 easy-to-use
sections
How to Use This Book
Look for these symbols to quickly identify listings:

1
1 Sights 4 Sleeping
r Beaches 5 Eating
PLAN YOUR TRIP 2 Activities 6 Drinking
Your planning tool kit C Courses 3 Entertainment
Photos & suggestions to help T Tours 7 Shopping
you create the perfect trip.
z Festivals
& Events
Information
8 & Transport
All reviews are ordered in our authors’ preference,

2
starting with their most preferred option. Additionally:
Sights are arranged in the geographic order that we
suggest you visit them and, within this order, by author
preference.
ON THE ROAD Eating and Sleeping reviews are ordered by price
range (budget, midrange, top end) and, within these
Your complete guide
ranges, by author preference.
Expert reviews, easy-to-use
maps & insider tips.
These symbols and abbreviations give vital
information for each listing:
Must-visit recommendation

3
Sustainable or green recommendation
No payment required
% Telephone number f Ferry

UNDERSTAND h
p
Opening hours
Parking
j Tram
d Train
Get more from your trip n Nonsmoking apt apartments
Learn about the big picture, to a Air-conditioning d double rooms
make sense of what you see. i Internet access dm dorm beds
W Wi-fi access q quad rooms
s Swimming pool r rooms
v Vegetarian selection s single rooms

4
E English-language menu ste suites
c Family-friendly tr triple rooms
# Pet-friendly tw twin rooms
g Bus
SURVIVAL GUIDE
Your at-a-glance reference For symbols used on maps, see the Map Legend.
Vital practical information
for a smooth trip.
 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Sri Lanka
Jaffna &
the North
p256

The Ancient
The Cities
West p193
p84

The East
p229

Colombo# The Hill

p56 _ Country
p142

The South
p103

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY

Ryan Ver Berkmoes,

Stuart Butler, Iain Stewart
 PLAN ON THE ROAD
YOUR TRIP
Welcome to Sri Lanka. . . . 4 COLOMBO. . . . . . . . . . 56 Dondra. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128
Sri Lanka Map. . . . . . . . . . . 6 History. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 Talalla. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128
Sri Lanka’s Top 20. . . . . . . 8 Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 Dikwella . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129
Need to Know . . . . . . . . . . 18 Activities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 Goyambokka. . . . . . . . . . . . 129
First Time Sri Lanka . . . . 20 Tours. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 Tangalla
& Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130
What’s New . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Festivals & Events . . . . . . . . 70
Bundala
If You Like.... . . . . . . . . . . . 23 Sleeping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 National Park . . . . . . . . . . . 134
Month by Month. . . . . . . . 26 Eating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75 Tissamaharama . . . . . . . . . 134
Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 Drinking & Nightlife. . . . . . . 78 Around
Eat & Drink Like a Local. . 34 Entertainment. . . . . . . . . . . 79 Tissamaharama . . . . . . . . . 137
Beaches & Activities . . . . 39 Shopping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 Yala National Park . . . . . . . 138
National Parks & Safaris. 46 Kataragama. . . . . . . . . . . . . 140
Travel with Children. . . . . 51 THE WEST . . . . . . . . . . 84
Regions at a Glance. . . . . 53 North of Colombo . . . . . . 86 THE HILL
COUNTRY . . . . . . . . . 142
Colombo to Negombo. . . . 86
Negombo. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86 Colombo to Kandy. . . . . . . 144
Kandy. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144
SARANGA DEVA DE ALWIS /GETTY IMAGES ©

Around Negombo. . . . . . . . . 91
Negombo to Kalpitiya. . . . . 91 Around Kandy. . . . . . . . . . . 158

Kalpitiya & Dutch Bay. . . . . 91 East of Kandy . . . . . . . . . . . 161

Wilpattu National Park . . . 93 Adam’s Peak

(Sri Pada) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 163
South of Colombo . . . . . . 95
Kitulgala. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165
Aluthgama, Bentota
& Induruwa . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95 Kandy to
Nuwara Eliya. . . . . . . . . . . . 166
Hikkaduwa & Around. . . . . 98
Nuwara Eliya. . . . . . . . . . . . 166
MALABAR PIED HORNBILL, Around Nuwara Eliya. . . . . 171
YALA NATIONAL PARK P138 THE SOUTH. . . . . . . . 103
Horton Plains National
Galle. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104 Park & World’s End . . . . . . 173
Around Galle. . . . . . . . . . . . 115 Belihul Oya . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175
ERIC L. WHEATER /GETTY IMAGES ©

Unawatuna . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115 Haputale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175

Unawatuna to Bandarawela. . . . . . . . . . . . 178
Koggala . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120 Ella . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179
Ahangama & Around Ella . . . . . . . . . . . . . 184
Midigama. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121
Badulla. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185
Weligama. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123
Koslanda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186
Mirissa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123
Wellawaya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186
Matara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126
FRESCOES,
Embilipitiya. . . . . . . . . . . . . 187
SIGIRIYA P200
 Contents
UNDERSTAND

Sri Lanka Today . . . . . . . 278

History. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 280
DALLAS STRIBLEY /GETTY IMAGES ©

Environmental
Issues. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 292
People of Sri Lanka . . . . 296
Sri Lankan Tea . . . . . . . . 300

PETTAH MARKETS P60,

COLOMBO

Uda Walawe THE EAST. . . . . . . . . . 229.

National Park . . . . . . . . . . . 188
Monaragala. . . . . . . . . . . . . 231 SURVIVAL
Sinharaja Forest
Around Monaragala. . . . . . 231
GUIDE
Reserve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 189
Arugam Bay. . . . . . . . . . . . 232
Directory A–Z . . . . . . . . . 304
THE ANCIENT North of
Arugam Bay. . . . . . . . . . . . 237 Transport. . . . . . . . . . . . . 312
CITIES . . . . . . . . . . . . 193
South of Language. . . . . . . . . . . . . 318
Matale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195 Arugam Bay. . . . . . . . . . . . 239
Nalanda Gedige . . . . . . . . . 197 Index. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 327
Ampara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 240
Dambulla. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197 Map Legend. . . . . . . . . . . 335
Around Ampara . . . . . . . . . 241
Sigiriya. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 200 Batticaloa . . . . . . . . . . . . . 242
Habarana. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204 Around Batticaloa . . . . . . 245
Polonnaruwa. . . . . . . . . . . 206 Kalkudah &
Giritale. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 212 Passekudah Beaches. . . . 245
Trincomalee. . . . . . . . . . . . . 247
Mandalagiri Vihara. . . . . . . 213 SPECIAL
Uppuveli & Nilaveli. . . . . . . 251
Minneriya & Kaudulla FEATURES
National Parks . . . . . . . . . . 213
Ritigala Ruins . . . . . . . . . . . 214 Eat & Drink
JAFFNA & Like a Local. . . . . . . . . . 34
Anuradhapura. . . . . . . . . . . 215 THE NORTH. . . . . . . . 256 Beaches
Mihintale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223 Vavuniya. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 258 & Activities . . . . . . . . . . 39
Yapahuwa. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 226 Mannar Island National Parks
Panduwasnuwara. . . . . . . 227 & Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 260 & Safaris . . . . . . . . . . . . 46

Ridi Vihara. . . . . . . . . . . . . 227 Jaffna. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 262 People of

Sri Lanka. . . . . . . . . . . 296
Kurunegala . . . . . . . . . . . . 228 Jaffna Peninsula. . . . . . . . . 271
Sri Lankan
Jaffna’s Islands. . . . . . . . . . 274 Tea. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 300
4

Welcome to
Sri Lanka
Endless beaches, timeless ruins,
welcoming people, oodles of elephants,
rolling surf, cheap prices, fun trains,
famous tea and flavourful food
describe Sri Lanka.

The Undiscovered Country Rainforests & Beaches

You might say Sri Lanka has been hiding in When you’re ready to escape the tropical
plain sight. Countless numbers of travellers climate of the coast and lowlands, head for
have passed overhead on their way to some- the hills, with their temperate, achingly
place else, and years of war and challenges, green charms. Verdant tea plantations and
such as tsunamis, have kept Sri Lanka off rainforested peaks beckon walkers, hikers
many itineraries. and those who just want to see it during a
But now Sri Lanka is finding its way spectacular train ride.
onto the itineraries of ever more travel- And then there are the beaches. Daz-
lers. Several years since the war ended, the zlingly white and often untrod, they ring
country is moving forward quickly, even the island so that no matter where you go,
as questions about the hostilities continue you’ll be near a sandy gem. Should you beat
to spark debate. Lying between the more the inevitable languor, you can surf and
trodden parts of India and Southeast Asia, dive world-class sites without world-class
Sri Lanka’s myriad appeals are undeniably crowds.
alluring.
It’s So Easy
So Much in So Little Distances are short: see the sacred home of
Few places have as many Unesco World the world’s oldest living tree in the morning
Heritage Sites – eight – packed into such a in Anuradhapura, and stand awestruck by
small area. Sri Lanka’s 2000-plus years of the sight of hundreds of elephants gather-
culture can be discovered at ancient sites, ing in the afternoon at Minneriya. Discover
where legendary temples boast beautiful a favourite beach, meditate in a 2000-year-
details. old temple, exchange smiles while stroll-
Across the island, that thing that goes ing a mellow village, marvel at birds and
bump in the night might be an elephant wildflowers, try to keep count of the little
heading to a favourite waterhole. Safari dishes that come with your rice and curry.
tours of Sri Lanka’s pleasantly relaxed Stroll past colonial gems in Colombo, then
national parks encounter leopards, water hit some epic surf. Sri Lanka is spectacular,
buffaloes, all manner of birds and a passel affordable and still often uncrowded. Now
of primates. is the best time to discover it.
 5
IDRIS AHMED / GETTY IMAGES ©

Why I Love Sri Lanka

By Ryan Ver Berkmoes
My fascination with Sri Lanka began when I read Paul Theroux’s The Great
Railway Bazaar as a child. His wonderment at the island’s endless contradictions stayed with
me. In 2004 I was in the west and south in the weeks after the tsunami. I was struck by the
stories of the survivors and deeply moved by their efforts to rebuild. In the years since I have
been endlessly amazed by the Sri Lankans’ ability to overcome disaster, war and myriad
other challenges as they work tirelessly to make their country match its potential, while
remaining some of the most charming people on the planet.
For more about our authors, see page 336.

Above: Statue of Buddha, Maligawila (p232)

 0 50 km
Sri Lanka 0 30 miles

79º30'E 80º00'E 80º30'E 81º00'E 81º30'E 82º00'E

Palk Strait Point Pedro
Jaffna
Karaitivu Hindu temples and fruit trees
Jaffna
(p262)
Nainativu
Jaffna
Lagoon
9º30'N Neduntivu Pooneryn

Palk Bay Kilinochchi

Rameswaram ELEVATION
Mullaittivu
2100m
INDIA BAY OF 1500m
Mankulam BENGAL 900m
Mannar
Talaimannar Island 450m

9º00'N 0
Northern Province

Gulf of Mannar
Vavuniya
Anuradhapuraa Nilaveli
Amazing cultural and religious
heritage (p215) Uppuveli
Trincomalee
Medawachchiya
8º30'N
North Central Province Mutur

Anuradhapura Mihintale
Kaudulla
National Park Polonnaruwa a
Kalpitiya Thousand-year-old buildings
and monuments (p206)
Minneriya
National
Habarana Park
8º00'N Puttalam
Polonnaruwa
 Sigiriya Sigiriya
A stunning rock Dambulla
surrounded by gardens (p200) Eastern
North Province
Western Batticaloa
Province Padeniya
INDIAN Central Province
OCEAN
7º30'N Knuckles Maha Oya
Kurunegala Range
Matale
(1863m)

Polgahawela
Kandy Kandy
The cultural capital Ampara
of the island (p144) Negombo Senanayake Akkaraipattu
Province of Samudra
Sabaragamuwa Horton Plains & World’s End
Ja-Ela Gampaha Wild and windswept
Karawanella Kitulgala moorlands (p173)
7º00'N
Badulla
Avissawella Nuwara Eliya
COLOMBO Adam's Peak Horton Plains Pottuvil
(Sri Pada) National Park Ella Monaragala Arugam Bay
Mt Lavinia (2243m) Bandarawela
Maligawila
Colombo Haputale Panama
Western World's Wellawaya
Colonial charms and Belihul Oya End
Province Ratnapura Arugam Bay
fascinating shopping (p56) Province Okanda Surfing paradise
Pelmadulla of Uva
Kumana (p232)
Uda Walawe National Park
6º30'N Sinharaja National Park
Forest
Adam's Peak Aluthgama Reserve
A beautiful and historic walk Bentota Kataragama
Induruwa
(p163) Deniyaya Yala National
Embilipitiya
Park
Tissamaharama
Southern
Province Bundala Uda Walawe National Park
Galle Fort National Park Kirinda Buffalo, crocodiles and
Unmissably historic and Hikkaduwa elephants (p188)
beguiling (p105) Akuressa
Galle
6º00'N Tangalla
Unawatuna Bundala National Park
Mirissa Weligama Matara
See blue whales One of Sri Lanka's finest
Mirissa birding destinations (p134)
on a boat excursion (p123)
 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
8

Sri Lanka’s

Top
20

Stunning Beaches Travelling by Train

1 There are long, golden-specked ones,

there are dainty ones with soft white
sand, there are wind- and wave-battered
2 Sometimes there’s no way to get a
seat on the slow but oh-so-popular
train to Ella (p179), but with a prime
ones, and ones without a footstep for standing-room-only spot looking out at a
miles. Some have a slowly, slowly vibe and rolling carpet of tea, who cares? Outside,
some have a lively party mood, but which- the colourful silk saris of Tamil tea pick-
ever you choose, the beaches of Sri Lanka ers stand out in the sea of green; inside,
(p39) really are every bit as gorgeous you may get a shy welcome via a smile. At
as you’ve heard. And we guarantee that stations, vendors hustle treats, including
after you’ve returned home, every time some amazing corn and chilli fritters sold
you sit in rush-hour traffic on a wet and wrapped in somebody’s old homework
cold Monday morning, an image of palm paper. Munching one of these while the
trees and azure Sri Lankan waters will scenery creaks past? Sublime.
float into your mind! Tangalla beach (p131)
9

KEVIN CLOGSTOUN / GETTY IMAGES © JULIET COOMBE / GETTY IMAGES ©

10
3 4

ALAN LAGADU / GETTY IMAGES ©

PETER BARRITT / GETTY IMAGES ©
PL A N YO U R TRI P S r i L a n k a’ s T o p 2 0

Uda Walawe Ancient Soaring

National Park Anuradhapura Sigiriya Rock

3 This huge chunk of

savannah grass-
land centred on the Uda
4 Here bits of Sri Lanka’s
cultural and religious
heritage sprawl across 3 sq
5 If it was just the rolling
gardens at the base of
Sigiriya, it would still be a
Walawe reservoir (p188) km. In the centre is one of highlight. Ponds and
is the closest Sri Lanka the world’s oldest trees, the little man-made rivulets
gets to East Africa. There more than 2000-year-old put the water in these
are herds of buffalo (al- Sri Maha Bodhi. That it has water gardens and offer
though some of these are been tended uninterrupted a serene idyll amid the
domesticated!), sambar by guardians for all those sweltering countryside.
deer, crocodiles, masses centuries is enough to send But look up and catch your
of birds and elephants – shivers down the spine. jaw as you ponder this
and we don’t just mean a The surrounding fields of 370m-high rock (p200)
few elephants. We mean crumbling monasteries and that erupts out of the
hundreds of the big-nosed enormous dagobas attest landscape. Etched with art
creatures. In fact, we’d to the city’s role as the and surmounted by ruins,
go so far to say that for seat of power in Sri Lanka Sigiriya is an awesome
elephants, Uda Walawe (p215) for a thousand mystery, one that the won-
is equal to, or even better years. Biking through this derful museum tries to dis-
than, many of the famous heady past is a thrilling sect. The climb to the top is
East African national experience. Isurumuniya a wearying but worthy
parks. Blue-tailed bee-eater Vihara (p220) endeavour.
 11
5
MARGIE POLITZER / GETTY IMAGES ©

PL A N YO U R TRI P S r i L a n k a’ s T o p 2 0
6
Surfing at
Arugam Bay
ASANKA BRENDON RATNAYAKE / GETTY IMAGES ©

6 The heart of Sri

Lanka’s growing surf
scene, the long right break
at the southern end of
Arugam Bay (p233) is
considered Sri Lanka’s
best. From April to Sep-
tember you’ll find surfers
riding the waves; stragglers
catch the random good
days as late as November.
Throughout the year you
can revel in the surfer vibe:
there are board-rental and
ding-repair joints, plus
plenty of laid-back cheap
hangouts offering a bed
on the beach. And if you
need solitude, there are
fine breaks at nearby Light-
house Point, Whiskey Point
and Okanda.
12

Adam’s Peak Pilgrims Visiting a Tea Plantation

7 For more than 1000 years, pilgrims

have trudged by candlelight up Adam’s
Peak (Sri Pada; p163) to stand in the
8 It wasn’t really all that long ago that
Sri Lanka’s Hill Country was largely
a wild and ragged sweep of jungle-clad
footprints of Buddha, breathe the air mountains, but then along came the Brit-
where Adam first set foot on earth and ish who felt the need for a nice cup of tea.
PL A N YO U R TRI P S r i L a n k a’ s T o p 2 0

see the place where butterflies go to die. So they chopped down all the jungle and
Today, tourists join the throngs of local turned the Hill Country into one giant tea
pilgrims and, as you stand in the predawn estate. And you know what? The result
light atop this perfect pinnacle of rock is mighty pretty! Sri Lankan tea is now
and watch the sun crawl above waves of famous across the world, and visiting a tea
mountains, the sense of magic remains as estate (p302) and seeing how the world’s
bewitching as it must have been for Adam favourite cuppa is produced is absolutely
himself. Buddhist temple at Adam’s Peak summit fascinating. Pedro Tea Estate (p167)

PAUL KENNEDY / GETTY IMAGES ©

8
KIMBERLEY COOLE / GETTY IMAGES ©
 13
9 10
GREG ELMS / GETTY IMAGES ©

IDRIS AHMED / GETTY IMAGES ©

PL A N YO U R TRI P S r i L a n k a’ s T o p 2 0
MARGIE POLITZER / GETTY IMAGES © 11

Fabulous Bundala Feel the Healing:

Galle Fort National Park Ayurveda

9 Man and nature have

joined forces in Galle
Fort (p105) to produce
10 With all the crowds
heading to nearby
Yala National Park, the
11 If you start to feel
the burden of the
centuries while in Sri
an architectural work of Ramsar-recognised Lanka, you might appreci-
art. The Dutch built the Bundala National Park ate an irony while you feel
streets and buildings, the (p134) often gets over- the tensions melt out of
Sri Lankans added the looked. But with the park’s your body in an Ayurvedic
colour and style, and then huge sheets of shimmering sauna (p96): the design
nature got busy covering it wetlands singing to the is more than 2500 years
in a gentle layer of tropical sound of birdsong, skip- old. Ayurveda is an ancient
vegetation, humidity and ping it is a big mistake. practice and its devotees
salty air. The result is an Bundala has a beauty that claim enormous benefits
enchanting old town that other parks can only dream from its therapies and
is home to dozens of art of, and is one of the finest treatments. Herbs, spices,
galleries, quirky shops, birding destinations in the oils and more are used on
boutique cafes and guest- country. Oh, and in case and in the body to produce
houses, plus some splen- herons and egrets aren’t balance. Some people go
did hotels. For tourists it’s, glam enough for you, the on multiweek regimens
without doubt, the number crocodiles and resident el- in clinics, others enjoy
one urban attraction in the ephant herd will put a smile a pampering afternoon
country. Clock tower and fort on your face. Monitor lizard at a luxury spa. Ayurvedic
walls (p110) medicines
14
12 13

GRANT FAINT / GETTY IMAGES ©

ANDREW BURKE / GETTY IMAGES ©

PL A N YO U R TRI P S r i L a n k a’ s T o p 2 0

14

RICHARD NEBESKY / GETTY IMAGES ©

Polonnaruwa’s Exploring Richly Spiced
Stupendous Undiscovered Food
Structures Beaches
14 Venture into the

12 13
Arrayed around No longer off-limits entertaining pan-
a vast grassy due to war, or in- demonium of a large Sri
quadrangle like the chess accessible due to primitive Lankan market, such as
pieces of giants, these roads, the truly magnificent those found in Colombo
intricately carved buildings east coast beaches are and Kandy, and you’ll soon
and monuments offer a ready to lure travellers see and smell the rich
visitor-friendly briefing on away from their more fa- diversity of foods and fla-
what was the centre of the mous counterparts in the vours that come from this
kingdom some thousand west and south. Just take fertile land. An average Sri
years ago (p206). Handy one look at these beauti- Lankan cook spends hours
plaques are loaded with ful ribbons of sand and each day tirelessly roast-
information, although you you won’t want to leave. ing and grinding spices
may find the buildings too And you may well have while mincing, slicing and
extraordinary to switch them to yourself. A few dicing all manner of foods
your concentration to areas to consider: Nava- (p34). A seemingly
signage. Catch sight of lady (p242), Kalkudah humble rice and curry can
the ruins at sunrise and (p245), the islands near consist of dozens of intri-
sunset, when the rosy rays Batticaloa Lighthouse cately prepared dishes,
of light bathe the complex (p245) and beaches each redolent of a rich and,
in a romantic glow. Reclining down the strip from Up- yes at times, fiery good-
Buddha, Gal Vihara (p210) puveli and Nilaveli (p251). ness. Spices
Uppuveli beach
 15

Horton Plains & World’s End Kandy: Cultural Capital

15 The wild, windswept Horton

Plains (p173), high, high up in Sri
Lanka’s hill country, are utterly unexpected
16 Kandy (p144) is the cultural capital
of the island and home to the Temple
of the Sacred Tooth Relic, said to contain
in this country of tropical greens and blues, a tooth of the Buddha. For the Sinhalese,
but they are far from unwelcome. You’ll this is the holiest spot on the island, but for

PL A N YO U R TRI P S r i L a n k a’ s T o p 2 0
need to wrap up warm (a morning frost isn’t tourists Kandy offers more than religious
uncommon) for the dawn hike across these satisfaction: there’s a pleasing old quarter,
bleak moorlands – it’s one of the most a pretty central lake, a clutch of museums
enjoyable walks in the country. And then, and, in the surrounding vicinity, some beau-
suddenly, out of the mist comes the end of tiful botanical gardens. In case you need
the world and a view over what seems like further blessings from the gods, there’s
half of Sri Lanka. Horton Plains National Park also a series of fascinating ancient temples.
from World’s End Interior, Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic (p145)

15
KEVIN CLOGSTOUN / GETTY IMAGES ©

16
RICHARD ROSS / GETTY IMAGES ©
16

Jaffna & the Colonial Legacy

Rediscovered North
18 Yes, the Brits were chased out at

17 In Jaffna (p262), everything independence in 1948, but their

seems different, especially the lan- legacy lives on in much more than an often
guage: the rapid-fire staccato of spoken impenetrable bureaucracy addicted to
forms. Colombo (p56) has wide, tree-
PL A N YO U R TRI P S r i L a n k a’ s T o p 2 0

Tamil is a real change from singsong Sin-

hala. So too the cuisine: singularly spiced shaded streets where you’ll see the struc-
and, in season, complemented by legend- tures of the empire at their most magnifi-
ary mangoes. And perhaps even the light: it cent. The National Museum building is
has a distinctive quality, reflected as deep redolent with empire. Look around a little
garden greens in Jaffna’s suburbs. Revel and you’ll find the colonial legacies of the
in the uniqueness of Jaffna, including the Dutch and Portuguese as well. Just head
towering, ornate Hindu temples. And don’t to restored quarters of Fort and wander,
miss Jaffna’s isolated islands and their pausing at the hugely popular Old Dutch
end-of-the-earth appeal. Hindu temple, Jaffna Hospital. Cargills main store (p59), Colombo

17 ASANKA BRENDON RATNAYAKE / GETTY IMAGES ©

18

OLIVER STREWE / GETTY IMAGES ©

 17
19
LIZ LEYDEN / GETTY IMAGES ©

PL A N YO U R TRI P S r i L a n k a’ s T o p 2 0
20
DIANA MAYFIELD / GETTY IMAGES ©

Whale-Watching at Mirissa Shopping in Colombo

19 People once visited the beaches of

southern Sri Lanka to laze under
palm trees and maybe go and peer at a
20 Part of the magic of Colombo –
yes, you read that right – is
going on a retail binge (p80). We don’t
few little fish on a diving excursion. Then necessarily mean the kind where you buy
somebody realised that the deep blue was more than will fit in a fleet of three-wheelers;
home to more than just schools of worka- rather we mean bingeing on the experience
day fish. It turns out that the waters off Sri itself. Even as parts of the world race to a
Lanka are home to the planet’s biggest big-box future, Colombo’s markets in Pettah
creature, the blue whale (not to mention heave and hurl with goods and general cha-
the somewhat smaller sperm whale). Now, os. And if you’d like something a bit more
every morning in season, boats leave stylish, Colombo has a growing collection of
Mirissa (p124) in search of these crea- chic boutiques, stores and malls to choose
tures unlike any other. from. Manning Market (p60), Colombo
 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
18

Need to Know
For more information, see Survival Guide (p303)

Currency When to Go
Sri Lankan Rupee (Rs)
Jaffna # Tropical climate, wet/dry seasons
GO Apr–Sep Tropical climate, rain year-round
Language Warm to hot summers, mild winters
Sinhala, Tamil and
English

Trincomalee
Visas GO Apr–Sep
Thirty-day visitor visas
#

cost US$30, apply in

advance online (www.
eta.gov.lk).

Money
ATMs available in cities
and large towns. Credit Nuwara Eliya
cards accepted at some GO Dec–May
Colombo #

midrange and all top- GO Nov–May #

end hotels.

Mobile Phones Galle

Local SIM cards cheaply GO Dec–Mar
#

available for unlocked

phones.
High Season Shoulder Low Season
Time (Dec–Mar) (Apr & Sep–Nov) (May–Aug)
Sri Lanka Standard Time ¨¨The Hill Country ¨¨April and ¨¨The Yala monsoon
(GMT/UTC plus 5½ plus west- and south- September offer the season (May to
hours) coast beaches are best odds for good August) brings rain
busiest – and driest. weather countrywide. to the south and west
¨¨With beds in ¨¨New Year’s coasts plus the Hill
demand, prices peak. celebrations in mid- Country.

¨¨The Maha April cause transport ¨¨The weather in

monsoon season to fill beyond the North and East
(October to January) capacity. is best.
keeps the East, North ¨¨A good time to ¨¨Prices nationwide
and Ancient Cities wander without are at their nadir.
wet. a set schedule of
bookings.
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