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the water is warming up, offering looking for a more vibrant scene?
sunbathers and swimmers the perfect Head to downtown Glens Falls and
opportunity to dip their toes into the meander the streets along the emerging
Queen of American Lakes. For the more Arts Trail or attend a local festival or
adventurous, get lost in the woods on top-notch performing arts production.
countless hiking trails, many leading to Don’t forget to visit local boutiques,
panoramic Adirondack summit views. restaurants and coffee shops to get
a taste of what the area is all about!

PLAN YOUR TRIP TODAY!

VisitLakeGeorge.com
FOLLOW US:
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 virginia.org

McAfee Knob, Appalachian Trail

 CONTENTS
I S S U E 1 2 4 , J U L /A U G 2 0 2 4

66 100 124 156

C A LI FO RN I A C A PE V E RD E PE RU H A MB U RG
Experience the best of the The West African archipelago is Unforgettable itineraries to Defined by the sea, Germany’s
Golden State’s coast with surf, prime hiking country, with trails explore the nation’s cuisine, ‘gateway to the world’ has long
soul food and road-tripping through farms and mountains culture and complex history welcomed the tides of change

88 114 142
R A S A L KH A IM A H S LOVA KI A BA RC E LO N A
The Emirate state of mountains, The past is felt with every step in There’s always time for one more
deserts and coastline is now the central region of Horehronie, cocktail on streets peppered
emerging as an adventure hub home to a diverse folk culture with clandestine speakeasies

66 C ALIFORNIA
IMAGE: GETTY

J U L /AU G 2 0 24 9
CONTENTS
Smart traveller
17 | SNAPSHOT A headful of flowers 32 | UK BREAKS Off the beaten
in the mountains of Ladakh, India track in North Staffordshire
18 | BIG PICTURE Bathing in the ‘red 35 | BOOKS Six brilliant reads for
zone’ in the Polish town of Rybnik the warmer months
21 | CINQUE TERRE Liguria’s much- 36 | KIT LIST Family essentials for
loved Via dell’Amore returns coastal and river excursions
23 | COUNTY KERRY Ireland 39 | NOTES FROM AN AUTHOR
welcomes a new national park Sophie Yeo on the legacy of ice
25 | FOOD Medieval influences fishing in the Finnish wilderness
loom large in Belgian cuisine 40 | COMPETITION Win a seven-
27 | WHERE TO STAY Hotels that night trip to Chile for two
celebrate Tartu’s heritage 43 | MEET THE TRAILBLAZER
28 | INSIDE GUIDE A dance through Edward Ndiritu on the future of
the streets of Cali, Colombia anti-poaching in central Kenya

25
30 | FAMILY Alpine hills and thrills 44 | ONLINE Highlights from
in Austria’s lush Stubai Valley nationalgeographic.com/travel

58

IMAGES: STOCKFOOD; MAMA SHELTER ROMA; TVB STUBAI TIROL/ANDRE SCHÖNHERR; GETTY

32 30
On the cover Insider Travel talk Get involved
46 | WEEKENDER: DANISH LAKES 166 | ASK THE EXPERTS A food 187 | SUBSCRIPTIONS Receive four
Dive into the waters around tour of Malaysia, hotels for a Jane issues for £3 with our summer offer
Silkeborg, where wild swimming Austen-stye stay and more 188 | EVENTS Get a taste of what’s
spots mingle with fairytale forests 168 | THE INFO A short history of on offer at this year’s Food Festival
52 | EAT: SOUTH DEVON Award- the Edinburgh Fringe 193 | INBOX Let us know what you
winning wines, local rums and stellar 169 | HOT TOPIC The state of travel think of the magazine to be in with
farm shops in the south west in Cyprus 50 years after its division a chance of winning a great prize
58 | SLEEP: ROME Savour the Eternal 170 | PHOTO COMPETITION 2024 194 | HOW I GOT THE SHOT
Palm trees in Beverly Hills, City with a stay that incorporates Check out this year’s winning Photographer Ulf Svane on distilling
Los Angeles its rich history, from grand palazzos images, selected from thousands the magic of Phuket’s Vegetarian
Image: Getty to antique-filled boutiques of entries across six categories Festival for our June issue

10 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
 CONTRIBUTORS
Editorial Director: Maria Pieri Digital Marketing Manager:
Editor: Pat Riddell Tilly Tasker
Deputy Editor: Amanda Canning Marketing Manager:
Commissioning Editors: Katelyn Fouladgar
Anna Melville-James Lorna Parkes, Georgia Stephens
Assistant Editors: Sam Kemp,
Digital Marketing Assistant:
Mélissa Otshudy
Tucked away in the middle of the Jutland Angela Locatelli Head of Events: Sabera Sattar
Senior Editor: Sarah Barrell Events Manager: Angela Calvieri
peninsula, the Danish Lake District is easy Associate Editor: Nicola Trup Production Manager:
outdoor escapism — full of fairytale forests Managing Editor: Glen Mutel Daniel Gregory
Content Strategist: Berkok Yüksel Production Controllers:
and mirror lakes, in a landscape more Deputy Digital Editor: Karlina Valeiko Christopher Hazeldine,
Art Director: Becky Redman Joe Mendonca
soothing than soaring, making it the perfect Deputy Art Director: Commercial Director:
antidote to life’s hustle. DA N I S H L A K E S P. 4 6 Lauren Atkinson-Smith Matthew Midworth
Art Editors: Lauren Gamp, Head of Sales: Phil Castle
Kelly McKenna Head of Campaigns: William Allen
Senior Designers: Rosie Klein, Campaigns Team: Albert Birchwolf,
Dean Reynolds James Bendien, Charlie Holder,
Designer: Tully D’Souza Bob Jalaf, Kevin Killen, James
Junior Designer: Natalie Cornelius Mullard, Mark Salmon, Perry
Picture Editor: Ben Rowe Sophocleous, Oscar Williams
Picture Researcher: Aisha Nazar Head of Event Sales: Tasmine Othman
Branded Content Manager: Head of National Geographic
Flora Neighbour Traveller — The Collection:
Deputy Branded Content Manager: Danny Pegg
Julia Buckley Megan Hughes
Senior Editor, Branded Content:
It’s been wonderful to watch Rome’s hotel Sara Crossley
scene develop over the past 15 years or so, Project Editors: Zoe Bell, Zane Henry,
Emma Monk, Farida Zeynalova,
from staid and basic accommodation to a Charlotte Wigram-Evans Chief Executive: Anthony Leyens
Deputy Project Editor: Managing Director:
flourishing boutique scene. Finally the city Sacha Scoging Matthew Jackson
has digs worthy of it — and you don’t have to Chief Sub-Editor: Olivia McLearon Sales Director: Alex Vignali
Senior Sub-Editor: Hannah Doherty Head of Commercial Strategy:
splash out to sleep in style. R O M E P. 5 8 Sub-Editors: Rory Goulding, Chris Debbinney-Wright
Chris Horton, Ben Murray, APL Business Development Team:
Victoria Smith Adam Fox, Cynthia Lawrence
Editorial Intern: Priya Raj Office Manager: Hayley Rabin
Operations Manager: Finance Director: Ryan McShaw
Seamus McDermott Credit Manager: Craig Chappell
Events & Operations Administrator Accounts Manager: Siobhan Grover
Safia Reid Billings Manager: Ramona McShaw

National Geographic Traveller (UK) is published by APL Media Limited,

Unit 310, Highgate Studios, 53-79 Highgate Road, London NW5 1TL
Sarah Baxter nationalgeographic.com/travel
Most visitors to Cape Verde head for the Editorial T: 020 7253 9906. [email protected]
Photography T: 020 7253 9906. [email protected]
flat, golden beaches of Sal. But the island of Sales/Admin T: 020 7253 9909. [email protected]
Santo Antão is an entirely different kettle of Subscriptions T: 01858 438787. [email protected]

Atlantic fish. This is Mother Nature running National Geographic Traveller (UK) is published by APL Media Ltd under license from
National Geographic Partners, LLC. For more information contact natgeo.com/info.
riot, which makes it a fantastic place to go Their entire contents are protected by copyright 2024 and all rights are reserved.
hiking. C A P E V E R D E P.1 0 0 Reproduction without prior permission is forbidden. Every care is taken in compiling
the contents of the magazine, but the publishers assume no responsibility in the effect
arising therefrom. Readers are advised to seek professional advice before acting on
any information which is contained in the magazine. Neither APL Media Ltd or National
Geographic Traveller magazine accept any liability for views expressed, pictures used
or claims made by advertisers.

National Geographic Partners International Publishing

Editor-in-Chief, NG Media: Senior Director: Ariel Deiaco-Lohr

Nathan Lump Senior Manager: Rossana Stella
Daniel Alford General Manager, NG Media:
David Miller Headquarters
During my travels through the high
International Editions 1145 17th St. NW, Washington, DC
mountains and lush meadows of Slovakia’s 20036-4688, USA
heartlands, I met some truly amazing people, Editorial Director:
Amy Kolczak National Geographic Partners
all working hard to protect Horehronie’s wild Editor: returns 27% of its proceeds to the
Leigh Mitnick nonprofit National Geographic
spaces and preserve the region’s unique Society to fund work in the areas of
history and traditions. S L OVA K I A P.1 1 4 Editors: science, exploration, conservation
CHINA Sophie Huang; and education.
GERMANY Werner Siefer;
ITALY Marco Cattaneo; National Geographic Traveller
LATIN AMERICA Alicia Guzman; (UK) is trusted for its independent
NETHERLANDS Robbert Vermue; and impartial advice. Our writers
POLAND Agnieszka Franus; and photographers often receive
SOUTH KOREA Bo-yeon Lim; support from the likes of tourist
SPAIN Josan Ruiz boards, tour operators, hotels and
airlines. However, there is never any
guarantee of positive coverage. Any
sponsored or commercial features
Oliver Smith will always be clearly labelled.
Hamburg has been a city close to my heart
since I first arrived as a fresh-faced teenager Copyright © 2024 National Geographic Partners, LLC. All Rights Reserved. National
Geographic Traveller and the Yellow Border Design are registered trademarks of
on a ferry from Harwich. That fresh face has National Geographic Society and used under license. Printed in the UK.
grown haggard, but Hamburg has only grown
more radiant, buoyed by two decades of
urban regeneration. H A M B U R G P.1 5 6

12 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
 Editor’s letter
DON’T MISS

I S S U E 1 2 4 , J U L /A U G 2 0 2 4

Photography Competition 2024

Check out the winning images from our
annual travel photography awards, covering
The Golden State, named as much for its actual gold as the allure it retains everything from immersive natural
today, holds a key place in popular culture. From San Francisco to Los Angeles landscapes to enveloping street shots and
and San Diego, California means many things to many people — much of the arresting wildlife images. P.1 70

20th century’s music, film, literature, politics and fashion owes the state a debt.
Yet while the national parks, wine regions and cities themselves are all major
draws for visitors, it’s the 840-mile stretch of coast that we focus on this issue.
California’s Pacific-facing shoreline summons up images of palm trees, surfers,
iconic beaches and epic road trips. The Pacific Coast Highway, one of the world’s
great coastal drives, offers the chance to tick many of the highlights off in just a
week or so. Stopping off at kitsch, retro motels dating back to California’s 1950s
post-war heyday only helps add to the experience.
But beyond that are heritage swimming clubs in San Francisco Bay, the
birthplace of West Coast punk in Berkeley, and laid-back coastal towns such
as Monterey and Santa Barbara. There’s also the Channel Islands, dubbed Food Festival 2024
Bagged your ticket to the National
the North American Galápagos because of their intriguing endemic flora and
Geographic Traveller (UK) Food Festival?
fauna. And let’s not forget Los Angeles’ food truck scene, which incorporates the Book today for our July event, with wine
history and heritage of all Californians in a mouthful or two. tastings, street food, workshops and a Main
So, make waves for the Golden State and discover your own slice of the Stage line-up featuring Nadiya Hussain. P.1 8 8
Californian coast.

Pat Riddell, editor

S U B S C RI B E TO DAY
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Awards 2023: Best Picture Editor • TravMedia Awards 2023: Travel Magazine of the Year • AITO Travel
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IMAGES: JOHN SEAGER; JAMES GIFFORD-MEAD

the Year 2021 • Travel Media Awards 2020: Consumer Writer of the Year • British Travel Awards 2019: Best Get three issues for just £5!
Consumer Holiday Magazine • BGTW Awards 2019: Best Travel Writer • Travel Media Awards 2019: Young
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• Travel Media Awards 2018: Consumer Writer of the Year • British Travel Awards 2017: Best Consumer and quote ‘NGT5’
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G O O N L I N E V I S IT N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .C OM / T R AV E L FO R N E W TR AV EL FE AT U RE S DA I LY

14 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
 The road less travelled isn’t a road.

When all is said and done, we all want the same thing: a deeply rewarding
life, enriched by the places we go and the experiences we share. Here in
quirky, sun-blessed Key West, extraordinary moments await. With glorious
weather, world-class fishing and diving, art, history and culture, unique
accommodations and tantaliWing cuisine, the end of one spectacular
day just means another one is on the horizon.
fla-keys.com/keywest 0208 686 2600
SM ART TR AVELLER
W H AT ’ S N E W • F O O D • W H E R E TO S TAY • FA M I LY • I N S I D E G U I D E • U K B R E A K • B O O K S • K I T L I S T

SNAPSHOT
Rigzin Angmo, Ladakh, India
In 2023, I took an overland tour from Ladakh
to Kashmir, leading a group of fellow
photographers with my wife. During our
journey, we took a back road to the village of
Dah, one of four settlements of Brokpas near the
India-Pakistan border. The isolated community
claims to be descended from members of
Alexander the Great’s army. Intrigued by their
carefully preserved cultural heritage, we sought
permission to photograph local families amid
the village’s lush apple orchards. Here, Rigzin
Angmo, a talented dancer who epitomised the
warmth of the people we met, wears an ornate
headdress adorned with an array of colourful
wildflowers picked from the surrounding hills.
M AT T H E W B R A N D O N • P H OTO G R A P H E R

mattbrandonphoto.com
@mattbrandon

J U L /AU G 2 0 24 17
BIG PICTURE
Rybnik, Poland
I’ve been visiting this pool since I was a child.
Tucked away in a sports centre on the outskirts
of my hometown, the whole thing was renovated
in 2014, but some of its original 1960s features
remain. I wanted to replicate the minimalistic
beauty of the architect’s blueprints, so I used a
drone to capture this shot, now inseparable in
my mind from the strangeness of the pandemic.
A few days after it was taken in 2020, all public
spaces in Poland were closed. The heat of that
summer was almost intolerable, but nobody
could go for a swim. It seems so improbable now.
MARC IN G IBA • PHOTOG R APHE R

podniebneobrazy.pl
@marcingiba

18 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
S M A RT T R AV E L L E R

J U L /AU G 2 0 24 19
 S M A RT T R AV E L L E R

I TA LY

Bella vista
V I A D ELL’A MO R E, TH E MO S T I CO N I C TR A I L I N C I N Q U E TER R E, I S S E T TO
R EO PEN TH I S S UM MER F O R TH E FI R S T TIM E I N OVER A D EC AD E

What’s the appeal? attracted. Previously, access came with a fee but was
Set some 100ft above the Ligurian Sea, the Via otherwise unrestricted; the new tickets required visitors
dell’Amore (‘Path of Love’) links the hamlets of to pre-book a slot online for €5 (£4), with 30 places
Riomaggiore and Manarola along the rocky cliffs of available every 30 minutes, and join a guided tour. The
Cinque Terre, a string of five seaside villages on Italy’s trail is now set to fully and permanently reopen this
northwest coast. Despite the trail measuring less than a summer, with the local government aiming to welcome
mile in length — forming part of the longer seven-and- the first visitors in July.
a-half mile Blue Trail connecting all five hamlets in the
surrounding Cinque Terre National Park — it’s become How can I visit?
one of the country’s most famous walking paths. It’s While the price of tickets to Via dell’Amore and exact
easy to see why: with sweeping views of the sea, steep admission details are yet to be unveiled, entry will
cliffs and colourful houses, it distills this UNESCO-listed continue to be paid for, restricted and guided. The
area to its essential ingredients. change is part of a larger effort to encourage more
responsible tourism to Cinque Terre, an area that’s
Why did it close? home to around 4,000 people but received more than
The via was cordoned off in 2012 following a landslide four million visitors in 2023. In the long run, the aim is
IMAGE: GETTY

and remained inaccessible to the public for more than to turn the path into an ‘open-air museum’, exploring
a decade. Last July, the 525ft stretch from Riomaggiore topics from the story of the trail — carved in the 1920s Above: The colourful
reopened for a three-month preview, trialling a new by isolated villagers — to its €22m (£18m) restoration hamlet of Manarola
entry system to minimise the crowds the trail once project. parconazionale5terre.it A N G E L A L O C AT E L L I in Cinque Terre

J U L /AU G 2 0 24 21
Full taste. No sugar.

Try
now!

With the creamy taste

of Werther’s original.
 S M A RT T R AV E L L E R

IRELAND

OCEAN’S
EDGE
County Kerry gains a new national
park protecting habitats and
heritage on both land and sea

Ireland’s first new national park in 26 years has just been

unveiled, covering a scattering of sites along the Atlantic
fringe of County Kerry, in the country’s south west. At
70,000 acres, Páirc Náisiúnta na Mara, Ciarraí (Kerry Seas
National Park) is the largest of Ireland’s protected areas.
It’s also the country’s first-ever marine national park,
comprising large expanses out to sea, including wave-
lashed islands that are home to a rich diversity of marine
mammals and bird life.
On land, a dozen-odd sites cover everything from
white-sand beaches, heaths and blanket bog to 18th-
century Derrynane House, once home to national hero
and statesman Daniel O’Connell. As yet, there are no
specific park facilities, but most points of interest are
already well-equipped for visitors and linked by the Wild
Atlantic Way driving route. nationalparks.ie/kerry-seas
R O RY G O U L D I N G

FO U R H I G H LI G HT S

1 Blasket Islands
The waters around this small island group,
uninhabited since the 1950s, are visited by whales,
dolphins and basking sharks, while its shores are
home to a large colony of grey seals. A number of
boat trips and tours depart from Dingle Harbour.

2 Skellig Michael
A World Heritage Site (and a Star Wars filming
location), this island was the home of Christian
hermits over a millennium ago. Among the seabird
colonies now resident are Atlantic puffins.

3 Inch Beach dunes

Jutting out from the Dingle Peninsula, this sand
spit is one of Ireland’s largest and most ecologically
important dune systems. Behind the Blue Flag
beach, you’ll find rare plant species and, perhaps,
the elusive natterjack toad.

Atlantic puffin on Skellig Michael,

4 Conor Pass
The national park’s prize asset on the mainland
is this 1,500ft-high road pass with views across the
off the coast of County Kerry
IMAGES: ALAMY

Above: The road to Old Dunquin Dingle Peninsula. Running down from here, the
Pier, from where you can take a Owenmore River is home to freshwater mussels.
boat trip to the Blasket Islands

J U L /AU G 2 0 24 23
 S M A RT T R AV E L L E R

M U S T-T RY D I S H E S

WAT E R ZO O I
This delicate stew features chicken, or
seafood, poached in a creamy broth
and is laden with flavourful vegetables
like leeks and celery. It’s the perfect
vehicle for creativity; a summer
version might include asparagus,
tomatoes and fragrant basil, though
my favourite is with scallops.

V L A A M S E S TOV E R I J
Also known as carbonades flamandes,
this is a slow-cooked stew of beef — or
pork cheeks — caramelised onions,
aromatic herbs and a subtly bitter
Belgian brew. Enjoy it with apple
sauce, a generous helping of Belgian
fries and a glass of beer.

B E LG I A N WA F F L E S
It’s hard to ignore the Belgians’ passion
for waffles: you’ll notice the sweet
aroma of the freshly baked delicacy
wherever you go. The Brussels waffle,
served in tearooms, is topped with
A TA S T E O F chantilly, ice cream or fresh fruit.

Belgium Essential ingredient

Belgian beer is central
B ELG I A N C U I S I N E CO N TI N U E S TO B E I N FLU EN C ED to many meat and fish
BY TH E FL AVO U R S O F IT S MED I E VAL PA ST
dishes. It’s perfect for
marinating, braising,
slow-stewing or even
Over the centuries, Belgium — the same ingredients that deglazing a pan to
has been invaded by numerous grew in the herb gardens of
make gravy
European people — including medieval monasteries.
the Romans, Vikings, Spanish, We also eat potatoes in nearly
French, Germans and Dutch. The every guise; fried potatoes are
Left: Belgian waffles with roasted
favourite ingredients and cooking practically our national dish.
rhubarb and clementines
techniques of the invaders were Mussels are consumed regularly,
picked up by locals, who, by the and we’re a nation of meat-
Middle Ages, had developed a lovers — pork, beef, veal and
R U T H VA N
cuisine they could call their own. chicken, as well as game,
WA E R E B E E K
Our cuisine is still deeply from rabbit and wild boar
is a Belgium-born chef
rooted in medieval cookery. to wild birds of every sort. and cookbook author.
This influence of the Middle Ages, a time We often make a meal of charcuterie She’s also chef-owner of
when Flemish culture was highly developed, accompanied by breads and beer. The Mapuyampay Gastro
can be seen in the way we use condiments, country is known for its vegetables Lodge in Chile
mustards, vinegars and dried fruits to obtain (namely brussels sprouts and endives) as
delicate balances of sweet and sour, or sweet well as for waffles and, of course, chocolate.
and salty; in our use of fresh and dried fruits Given this bounty, it’s perhaps surprising
and nuts, particularly almonds, to enhance that there are few cookbooks devoted to Belgian
flavour and presentation. The spices we use so cooking. But the reason is simple: in Belgium,
abundantly to season everything, from meats the secrets of cooking are still transmitted
IMAGE: STOCKFOOD

and vegetables to desserts and wine, can be orally from generation to generation. Our
traced back to those favoured in the Middle cuisine is home cooking at its best.
Ages — nutmeg, cinnamon, peppercorns, This is an edited extract from The Taste
saffron, ginger and bay leaves. We love chervil, of Belgium by Ruth Van Waerebeek (£25,
tarragon, thyme, sage, parsley and chives Grub Street).

J U N E 2 0 24 25
DAS EDELWEISS Salzburg Mountain Resort - Your 5 star hotel in Austria

Where luxury feels like home

www.edelweiss-grossarl.com
 S M A RT T R AV E L L E R

Hotel Antonius
Situated opposite the University of Tartu’s main
building, this opulent, 27-room hotel inhabits a
building dating to 1811, and its rooms are filled
with antiques. There’s a regal-looking library,
too. The Mediterranean courtyard turns into a
cafe during Estonia’s short but jubilant summers.
From €83 (£71), B&B. hotelantonius.ee

Villa Margaretha
Built a year after the Estonian Declaration of
Independence in 1918 by local photographer
Heinrich Riedel and named after his wife, this
art nouveau villa is one of Tartu’s most charming
options. Its period-inspired interior design,
featuring ornately tiled fireplaces and art nouveau
furniture, makes this hotel a good choice for
design enthusiasts. It also has its own sauna.
From €70 (£60). margaretha.ee

ÖÖD at Metsajärve
Estonian ÖÖD Hötels specialises in beautiful,
compact cabins immersed in nature. They’re
W H E R E T O S TAY typically built deep in the forest, with mirrored
glass exteriors that help the cabins blend into

TARTU
their environment. The ÖÖD at Metsajärve cabin,
designed for two guests, is the closest to Tartu,
a 45-minute drive south, and sits on a riverbank
where guests can enjoy morning yoga sessions, or
plunge into the water after steeping in the cabin’s
History and art heritage shine through wood-fired sauna. From €242 (£208).
in the hotels of Estonia’s second city oodhotels.com tartu2024.ee B E R KO K Y Ü K S E L

Art Hotel Pallas

Tartu is one of three European Capitals of Culture this
year and events marking this will highlight its artistic
heritage. The city flourished following the foundation of
its main university in the 17th century, evolving into a hub
for education and the arts. And, over the centuries, it has
embraced its reputation as Estonia’s intellectual centre;
it’s still home to the country’s Supreme Court and the
ALL RATES QUOTED ARE FOR STANDARD DOUBLES, ROOM ONLY, UNLESS OTHERWISE STATED.
IMAGES: KRISTI VAIKMETS/FOTOKAADER OÜ; SANDRA SARAPUU/HUMAL; JAAN PARMASK

Estonian National Museum.

Drawing on the city’s cultural legacy, Art Pallas Hotel
pays tribute to Estonia’s first art school, which occupied
the hotel’s site from 1919 until 1944 but closed when Tartu
found itself on the frontline of the Second World War. Now
transformed into stylish boutique accommodation, the
building pays tribute to the works of prominent Pallas
Art School alumni — artists like Karl Pärsimägi and Ado
Vabbe — with vibrant murals decorating the walls and
ceilings of the rooms. Meanwhile, contemporary furniture
and sleek design keep the rooms fresh.
Next door is gastropub-style restaurant Humal, which
serves as the hotel’s breakfast venue. Come afternoon, it’s From top: Art Hotel Pallas’s
a popular spot for Tartuvians, serving a contemporary rooms take inspiration

pan-European menu and craft beer. from Estonian artists;

beetroot carpaccio, beef
The hotel is just a five-minute walk from the historic
tartare and chocolate-
centre and 15 minutes from the bohemian, wooden-house
salted caramel tart, served
neighbourhood of Karlova. Two blocks away, the main
at Humal restaurant,
bus terminal is a good jumping-off point for day trips to Art Hotel Pallas; ÖÖD at
historic towns around Lake Peipus or to Otepää Nature Metsajärve’s mirrored
Park, dotted with lakes and hiking trails. From €80 (£69), cabins blend seamlessly
B&B. pallas.tartuhotels.ee into nature

J U L /AU G 2 0 24 27
 INSIDE GUIDE

C ALI
Worlds collide on the streets of Colombia’s third-most populous city, home
to a diverse community of musicians, restaurateurs and salsa-lovers

W O R D S : C L A I R E M C Q U E . I L L U S T R AT I O N : M A R T I N H A A K E

You hear Cali first, whether it’s the infectious anthems that find other local ingredients, head south to Galería Alameda
spill from its cafes or the hypnotic pulse of its clubs. A short market, where family-run Rellenas Carolina dishes up
hop southwest from the Colombian capital, Bogotá, this fermented-corn tamales and rellena, a richly flavoured
tropical metropolis has been electrifying dance-lovers since blood sausage. instagram.com/rringlete facebook.com/
Puerto Rican and Cuban musicians arrived via New York in GaleriaAlameda instagram.com/rellenascarolina
the 1970s, mambo grooves in tow. Cultural cross-pollination No trip to Cali would be complete without enjoying the
has shaped its food scene, too. The city was founded by mellifluous tones of renowned Afro-Pacific musician Nidia
the Spanish in the 1530s and its vibrant gastronomy draws Góngora or sampling viche — a liquor traditionally distilled
on European, African and Indigenous roots, a heritage from sugarcane by local Afro-Colombian communities. At
showcased during August’s Petronio Álvarez music festival Viche Positivo, Nidia’s intimate marketside restaurant, you
when Cali’s streets vibrate with Afro-Pacific percussion. can do both. Enjoy a glass before browsing for souvenirs
In San Antonio, Cali’s oldest neighbourhood, aspiring at nearby shop La Linterna, where clanking 19th-century
salseros (salsa dancers) can perfect their skills with classes presses produce eye-catching posters featuring retro viche
at SalsaPura, one of the city’s many dance schools. Put your designs. instagram.com/vichepositivo lalinternacali.com
moves into practice at MalaMaña or La Caldera del Diablo, For a laidback day, head to the Cali River banks to pick up
two underground salsa bars in the Centro district, where a lulada — a drink made from ice, sour lulo fruit and sugar
sweat-soaked couples whirl in mesmeric synchrony not — from one of the vendors along Boulevard del Río and
far from the area’s neo-gothic churches and churning wander towards Granada, a leafy neighbourhood studded
clubs such as La Pérgola Clandestina (1). salsapura.com with artisanal cafes and boutiques selling Colombian-made
instagram.com/malamanasalsabar instagram.com/ clothes and jewellery. Café Gardenia does a delicious vegan
lacalderadeldiablosalsabar banana bread; take a slice out into the courtyard, where
Get the backstory on salsa caleña, the wickedly fast lime-green parakeets dance between rose-apple trees. Cali
dance style born in the city, at the Museo de la Salsa in throngs with flora and fauna thanks in part to its proximity
Barrio Obrero, where an all-singing, all-dancing tour to Los Farallones de Cali National Park. Spiky iguanas dash
explores how salsa rhythms passed from Cuba to Cali. across lawns, wispy orchids wrap around trees like scraps
Alternatively, delve into salsa’s fascinating history on a of satin and just outside the city, in the Jardín Botánico
guided nighttime tour of the city’s clubs with Cali Salsa de Cali, flamboyant bromeliads and glossy anthuriums
Experience (2) — the safest and most immersive way of bloom in a rare patch of dry tropical forest. instagram.com/
exploring somewhere best traversed by taxi after dark. cafegardenia.cali jardinbotanicodecali.com.co
Prefer to leave dancing to the professionals? Grab a table Back in San Antonio, Criollan Lovers serves adventurous
at El Mulato Cabaret, where star-spangled bailadores cocktails with viches, mezcal and other Latin American
(dancers) move so fast their legs become a scintillating blur. spirits, paired with stirring music on weekends. At dusk,
museodelasalsa.com elmulatocabaret.com wind up the hill of Parque San Antonio — crowned by an
All that dancing works up an appetite. Inside one 18th-century chapel — to watch the sunset and listen to
of San Antonio’s grand colonial houses, Domingo (3) salsa anthems rising from the city; siren songs enticing you
spotlights indigenous ingredients cultivated by rural back for another night on the town. criollanlovers.co
communities across Colombia’s southwest. Across the
river, at Restaurante Ringlete, award-winning chef Martha H OW T O D O I T: Fly direct to Bogotá then take a one-hour flight to
Jaramillo recreates traditional Colombian Pacific dishes with Alfonso Bonilla Aragón International Airport. Stay at Movich Casa
a slow-food ethos, serving up encocado, a coconutty seafood del Alférez in Granada. Doubles from 467,460 COP (£96), B&B.
stew, and crisp empanadas with dollops of zingy ají sauce. To www.movichhotels.com www.cali.gov.co procolombia.co

28 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
2 CALI SALSA EXPERIENCE
Blending history and hedonism,
these carefully curated tours
introduce Cali through its
songs, with stops at museums
and record shops. Explore the
clubs of Barrio Obrero or let a
professional dancer whip you 1 L A P É RG O L A
around La Calle del Sabor, a CL ANDESTINA
salsa party in the city centre. This three-storey nightclub
calisalsaexperience.com ranks among the best in the
world. Party-goers get down
to a mix of reggaeton, salsa,
house and R&B before heading
to the roof terrace for fresh
air and shots of aguardiente,
Colombia’s firewater.
lapergola.co

3 D OM I N G O
In a restaurant canopied by
foliage, chef Catalina Vélez
serves inventive dishes
featuring indigenous produce
such as piangua, a mollusc
harvested from Colombia’s
mangrove forests. Domingo
also hosts special evenings in
collaboration with top chefs
from the region. instagram.
com/domingovereda

J U L /AU G 2 0 24 29
S M A RT T R AV E L L E R

F A M I LY

Alpine escape
D I SCOVER MO U NTAIN WALK S , WATERFALL S AND
TR AD ITI O NAL H O SPITALIT Y IN AU STRIA’ S T YRO L

Epic mountain views are a trademark of Stay close to the spire-dotted town
Austria’s Tyrol region, making it an ideal of Neustift im Stubaital and spend Tyrol travel tips
summer alternative for families. Among days hiking, biking and lingering on the DISCOUNTS
its valleys, the 21-mile-long Stubaital is terraces of the valley’s bar-restaurants The Stubai Super Card grants
an excellent base. It begins just nine miles (known as ‘alms’), enjoying schnitzel free use of the valley’s cable-
south of Innsbruck, a city well served by and sachertorte or sausages and ice cream. cars and buses, a go on the
rail and air, yet it remains an authentic From late June to September, the tourist Miederer toboggan run and
Alpine destination: expect clanging board also runs supervised children’s entry to the StuBay water park,
cowbells, wildflowers and outdoor activities around the valley, from alongside plenty of discounts.
adventures to make the heart yodel. geocaching to rock climbing. B E N L E RW I L L It’s sometimes included in
travel or hotel packages.
stubai.at

CIT Y ESCAPE
The regional capital of
Innsbruck, 15 miles from
Neustift im Stubaital, is both a
gateway city and a good day
trip. Take the 590 bus from the
valley for a day out exploring
the characterful Old Town,
which has some good cafes.

From left: A family-friendly adventure

park has been built around Stubai’s Serles
reservoir lakes; Alpine views from Mount
Elfer across the Stubai Valley

Valley views on foot Alpine e-biking Alternative thrills

Four cable-cars head up to Pedal the flat valley trails The StuBay water park
scenic mountain footpaths towards the Kids Park is a guaranteed hit, but
from different parts of the Klaus Äuele, which has intrepid kids can also
valley floor. Little legs can a rope course, climbing try tandem paragliding
manage the 1.5-mile route walls, a lake and more. For or the Miederer summer
from the top of the Elfer a more challenging ascent, toboggan run — a 1.7-mile
cable-car to the 350-year- cycle up for a meal at the sled descent on a rail
old Autenalm mountain remote mountain hut at (no minimum age). One
IMAGES: SERLESBAHNEN MIEDERS/MIRJA GEH;

restaurant. Older children Oberissalm, which sits of the valley’s biggest

TVB STUBAI TIROL/ANDRE SCHÖNHERR

could try the five-mile in a high valley scattered draws is Stubai Glacier,
Sunnenseit’n Weg, a with pretty farmsteads. best appreciated from
new circular loop from E-bikes can be rented at the 10,530ft Top of
the Schlick 2000 cable- Intersport in Neustift im Tyrol viewing platform.
car’s middle station. Stubaital. oberissalm.tirol paragliding-tirol.com
autenalm.at intersportrent.at stubaier-gletscher.com

H OW TO D O I T: Inghams offers a week’s stay at the family-friendly, four-star Alpenhotel Fernau

on the outskirts of Neustift im Stubaital from £1,029 per person, including flights, transfers from
Innsbruck Airport and half-board accommodation. inghams.co.uk tyrol.com

30 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
 UK BREAK

NORTH
STAFFORDS HIRE
I N TH E HE ART O F EN G L AND, STAFFO R DSHIRE O FFER S IND U STRIAL
HERITAG E AND RU R AL C HAR M IN EQ UAL ME A S U RE, WITH BOTH
PE A K D I S TRI C T S C EN ERY A N D H I G H - O C TA N E TH R I LL S O N TH E D O O R S TEP

The West Midlands county of Staffordshire was once a Local tip “Duck Goose bistro is in a beautiful
powerhouse of innovation, taking 18th-century Britain
into a ground-breaking future with its nascent pottery, old building in the town of Leek. The
glass, iron, coal and brewing industries. The powerhouse dishes use local, seasonal produce, and the
tag may no longer quite ring true but the heritage remains,
with its canal system just one welcome leftover from the flavours and presentation are incredible”
period. The overall impression these days is decidedly Debra Seaton, Churnet Valley Railway
more rural than industrial. The moorlands and dales of the
Peak District extend into its northeastern fringes, while
gentle valleys and hills, punctuated by stone-built villages,
define much of the region elsewhere. Near the centre of
England, it’s a good location for a short break; come for
easy activities, unique accommodation and a smattering Where’s the best place to stay?
of that industrial heritage. You know you’re in good hands before you arrive at The
Tawny, with staff asking for your pillow preference and how
How should I spend my time? you might like your complimentary mini-bar stocked ahead
The Caldon Canal, which once served to transport flint of your stay. Set in 70 acres near the village of Consall, it’s
for use in the potteries of nearby Stoke-on-Trent, runs for less a hotel than its own little world. A diverse collection of
18 miles through the Churnet Valley and could easily fill accommodation is scattered across the grounds, spanning
a day’s gentle strolling. Another vestige of the region’s wooden huts for two, boathouses ideal for families and stone
industrial past is the Churnet Valley Railway, with steam cottages sleeping eight. All have a clean, Scandinavian-
trains taking passengers on nostalgic trips from the village style design ethos complemented by English quirks such
of Froghall, chugging through the Staffordshire countryside as botanical prints and nature books, and come with a
on a two-hour round trip. A good chunk of the Peak District log-burner, private deck and outdoor spa bath. The grounds
National Park also falls within the county’s borders; a lovely are a highlight here, with follies to clamber around and five
drive on single-track roads up and over the moors, dodging miles of paths winding through the lake-pocked gardens
nonchalant sheep who’ve strayed onto the tarmac, leads and woodland. If feeling less active, hail one of the site’s
to Dovedale. Managed by the National Trust, the valley e-buggies and head, perhaps, to the spa or heated pool.
has archetypal Peak District scenery, characterised by
craggy limestone hills, and stepping stones over the River Where are the stand-out places to eat & drink?
Dove. There are various footpaths to help you explore the Pride of place at The Tawny is its landmark restaurant,
area. For slightly less bucolic distractions, Alton Towers The Plumicorn, in a striking zinc-clad building at the
Resort theme park — home to a whopping 10 roller coasters, top of a valley and open to non-residents. Diners should
including the newly refurbished Nemesis Reborn — is in the spare no dignity to claim a table by the double-height
north east of the county, six miles from Froghall; book in windows, with views down through the grounds. The menu
advance. churnetvalleyrailway.co.uk altontowers.com showcases British produce in modern European dishes
such as Dunwood Farm beef fillet bourguignon. The Black
What if it’s raining? Lion Consall, a mile away, has a quaint setting in sight of
World of Wedgwood in Stoke-on-Trent is an excellent the Caldon Canal, River Churnet and the heritage railway;
option for a wet day. A major pottery established in the 18th its beer garden is an ideal spot for a cold pint on a hot day.
century, and one of three remaining in the city, Wedgwood blacklionconsall.co.uk A M A N DA C A N N I N G
is still renowned for its fine china; you can visit the factory
on a tour, discover its heritage in the V&A Wedgwood HOW TO DO IT: Stoke-on-Trent station has direct trains to London
Collection, or learn how to make and paint ceramics yourself and Manchester. Stay in a Wildwood Hut at The Tawny from £250,
in one of its studios. worldofwedgwood.com B&B. thetawny.co.uk enjoystaffordshire.com

32 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
 S M A RT T R AV E L L E R

The crags of The Roaches,

north of the town of Leek
Clockwise from below:
A brasserie dish at The
Plumicorn; footpath through
the Staffordshire Peak
District; Boathouse lodge at
The Tawny hotel
IMAGES: GETTY; THE TAWNY

J U L /AU G 2 0 24 33
 S M A RT T R AV E L L E R

BOOKS

Summer reads
NE WLY RELE A S ED N OVEL S THAT CO NJ U RE U P A S IZ ZLI N G
S EN S E O F PL AC E A S W ELL A S A N I N TRI G U I N G PLOTLI N E

Until August Long Island The Voyage Home

In Gabriel García Colm Tóibín’s sequel to Pat Barker’s latest
Márquez’s posthumously Brooklyn picks up on the retelling of Greek lore
published work, a heady dune-backed beaches of continues the tale of
boat trip through the New York State to find Troy’s abducted women
jungle sets the steamy its protagonist, Irish as they set sail for
tone that imbues the tale immigrant Eilis Lacey, Mycenae with their Greek
of Ana Magdalena Bach decades into a subdued captors. The queen of
and her August holiday marriage. Against a literary historical fiction,
adventures on an unnamed Caribbean backdrop of 1970s oceanfront suburbia, Eilis is Barker is an unflinching guide for a trip
island. The novel recounts the romantic delivered a bombshell that will draw her back across ancient Greece, from a Troy rendered
liaisons, both unexpected and planned, to her Irish roots, begging the question: is it to smoking ruins to Agamemnon’s ghost-
she has along the way. Viking, £16.99 ever possible to go back? Picador, £20 populated palace. Hamish Hamilton, £20

You are Here Parasol Against Mona of the Manor

David Nicholls’ romance the Axe Armistead Maupin returns
sees protagonists Marnie Told over a roller coaster with the tenth in his Tales
and Michael thrown weekend break, this love of the City series — set
WORDS: SARAH BARRELL. IMAGE: GETTY

together for a coast-to- letter to Prague is penned in an English country

coast walk from Cumbria by long-time denizen of house in the 1990s. Mona
to Yorkshire. Their the city Helen Oyeyemi. Roughton has inherited
journey across moors The city itself steps in as Easley House, a Cotswolds
and fells grows into a narrator, drawing back country pile based on
love story that must overcome terrible the veil on its varied inhabitants. This Gloucestershire’s Stanway House. The result
map-reading and the confines of wet kaleidoscopic tale, complete with wheelbarrow is an off-kilter story of a weed-smoking lady
cagoules. The couple bond in a landscape of rides and feasts of raw onions, takes you of a manor that looms large as a character in
ancient rock formations, misty valleys and somewhere you perhaps didn’t know you itself. Fierce, funny and queer as country folk.
mountain-backed lakes. Sceptre, £20 needed to go. Faber, £16.99 Doubleday, £20

J U L /AU G 2 0 24 35
S M A RT T R AV E L L E R

KIT LIST

FA MILY TR AVEL
Whether your kids are water babies or sun worshippers, these essentials
will make coast and river trips more convenient, fun and care-free

3
2
4

8
6

1 B E AC H P OW D E R 3 Y E T I H O P P E R M1 2 S O F T 5 E RG O B A BY OM N I B R E E Z E 7 S U N N Y L I F E U N D E RWAT E R
This eco-friendly sand-removing B AC K PAC K C O O L E R B A BY C A R R I E R CAMER A
powder acts like talcum powder, This hands-free cool bag is This carrier’s breathable SoftFlex Get children interested in marine
but is made with plant and the perfect carry-all for family mesh ensures plenty of airflow, life with this retro point-and-shoot
mineral powders that are kinder picnics. Its padded back support making it a comfortable essential underwater camera. It comes in
to the environment. It absorbs and double-stitched straps and whether you’re hiking or trying a range of colourful patterns and
the residual moisture that makes handles make it easy for wearers to get your baby to sleep on a is reusable: simply load it with a
sand stick to the skin after to shoulder up to 5.4kg of ice hot beach day. It’s suitable for 35mm negative film roll, snap the
splashing in the sea. Developed or lunch on the go. Powerful newborns to toddlers, with four detachable case closed and away
on the Isle of Man, it comes in magnets create a leak-resistant, different carrying positions, and you go. The wrist strap prevents
natural or shimmer versions, both snap-lock closure and there’s an has padded shoulder straps, side kids losing it underwater, and
subtly scented like vanilla ice outer pocket to store keys, wallets pockets and a nifty storage pouch. it works up to a depth of three
cream. £10.99. beachpowder.co.uk and phones. £275. uk.yeti.com £184.90. ergobaby.co.uk metres. £22. uk.sunnylife.com

2 D RY RO B E A DVA N C E K I D S 4 D O C K & B AY K I D S TOW E L 6 S E V Y LO R M A D I S O N 8 V I VO B A R E F O OT U LT R A

S H O RT S L E E V E Made from 100% recycled I N F L ATA B L E K AYA K B LO OM J U N I O R S
Whether camping, on a surfing trip materials, this fun towel comes Constructed from lightweight but Rock-pooling, river wading
or exploring a windy beach, kids in 15 bright colourways that are hardy tarpaulin, this watercraft and shingle beach outings are
with this snuggly dryrobe will have guaranteed to stand out by the weighs just over 15kg, making it made far more comfortable
no cause for complaints of the cold. beach or pool. It dries up to three easy to cart around in its carry with these durable water shoes.
Made with recycled fabrics, the times faster than standard case. It also has a paddle holder, The Velcro fastening makes it
WORDS: LORNA PARKES

oversized design makes it easy to cotton versions and features to enable hands-free splashing easy for kids to get them on and
change out of wet swimmers, while a handy elasticated hook for about, and two removeable seat off independently, and their
the inner fleece lining wicks water hang-drying. Other bonuses supports, so you can convert it ultra-lightweight, quick-drying
away from the skin. The short- include the packaway bag and into a one-seater when your child materials mean kids can run wild
sleeved version is perfect for active lightweight design. From £24. is confident enough to paddle while feeling like they’re barefoot.
kids. From £90. dryrobe.com uk.dockandbay.com solo. £299.99. sevylor-europe.com £65. vivobarefoot.com

36 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
Climb Germany‘s highest railway Will you enjoy the view from the observation
bridge. The Brückensteig — located near platform or dare to walk across the balance
Cologne and Düsseldorf — lets you experience beam? For more information visit the website:
breathtaking views from up to 100 metres
above. With trains passing over your head, you
will ascend the arch of the Müngsten bridge —
the Brückensteig guides always at your side.
They will give you an insight into the history of
this regional landmark and, ultimately, at the
very top, you then make a choice.
www.brueckensteig.de
 Built almost 100 years ago.

Starlight from 500

light years away.

Making new memories

right this moment.

BOK TOWER GARDENS :: LAKE WALES, FL

WONDER LIVES HERE.

In Central Florida, there’s something inspiring
everywhere you look. From famous works of
art to locally made crafts, Frank Lloyd Wright
architecture to Bok Tower Gardens, it’s a hotbed
of cultural and artistic activity. Learn more at
VisitCentralFlorida.com.
 S M A RT T R AV E L L E R

NOTES FROM AN AUTHOR

Sophie Yeo
IN RE MOTE FI NL AND, AN AN C I ENT ME TH O D O F IC E FI SHIN G RE VE AL S A
PRIM A L A N D PREC I O U S R EL ATI O N S H I P B E T WEEN H UM AN S A N D N AT U R E

I went to Finland in search of wilderness. I I struggled at first to understand why

wasn’t naïve. I knew that there’s nowhere left Snowchange considered its work with the
in Europe untouched by human hand. Even fishery an act of rewilding — something that’s
so, I believed I might find a place where people normally associated with the removal of
were outsiders: a presence in the ecosystem, human influence. But, as we bobbed across the
perhaps, but an unimportant one. choppy water in a small boat, Tero Mustonen
One week later, and my view had changed. — president of Snowchange and a seiner
For it was there, in the country that himself — explained the reasoning. Forestry
birthed Nokia and the Moomins, that I first and peat extraction had caused an excess of
understood the place of humans in the wild. nutrients to flow into Puruvesi. The impacts of
From Helsinki, I travelled some 310 miles this were starting to appear in the form of algal
northeast by train to a region called North blooms in the once-crystal clear bays. Fishing
Karelia, on the Russian border. It was October, removed some of those nutrients, keeping the
and winter would soon whiten the landscape ecosystem in balance, while providing food
with snow, but, for now, the scenes that sped and income for the community itself.
by were a blur of brown and evergreen. Finnish villages were sustained by winter
I’d arranged to see the work of Snowchange seining for hundreds of years. The nets feature
Cooperative, an organisation that’s in the Kalevala, the poem considered the
rewilding large areas of the country, acting country’s national epic. But climate change
in collaboration with the villagers, hunters and market forces have mostly put an end to
and herders who live on the land. Under this the practice. As the tradition declines, so have
combined stewardship, thousands of acres the stories and knowledge embedded within
of forests, peatlands, rivers and wetlands it — the knowledge, for instance, of where and
have been restored to life. Some had been in a when to fish. The revival of winter seining on
terrible state. Despite its reputation for forests Lake Puruvesi was an act of both cultural and
and foraging, much of the Finnish landscape ecological revival, each essential to the other.
has been degraded through decades of resource The pressures may have been modern, but
exploitation. There’s as much work to do here as the story was nothing new. The imprint of
in the overgrazed hills of Britain. humanity needn’t be regarded as a stain upon
Snowchange’s flagship site, a marshmire the landscape. People have been shaping
called Linnunsuo, is a former peat mine. The nature for thousands of years. In prehistory,
land now breathes again, and wildlife has our place in nature wasn’t defined by mere
returned. I walked around the edge of the presence or absence, but of deep involvement;
water one cold morning; within minutes, I saw a relationship that wasn’t always of give and
a white-tailed eagle soar through the sky. The take, but of interdependence and reciprocity.
restoration has proven a summons to humans, The western concept of wilderness holds
too. Locals hunt the occasional duck or goose little space for these positive interactions:
in the autumn, alongside invasive species like thus, the most beautiful and natural
mink and raccoon dogs, which have increased landscapes are regarded as those from which
alongside the native birds upon which they humans are absent. But other languages do
predate. The people, in other words, are both The imprint of humanity hold space for it — and Finnish is among them.
the beneficiaries and agents of recovery. The closest word Finnish has for
But it was within a fish processing
need not be regarded as a ‘wilderness’ is erämaa. It harkens back to a
warehouse, on the shoreline of Lake Puruvesi, stain upon the landscape. time when villagers would have dispersed
that I really began to understand the deep through wide territories to hunt and fish. It
entanglements of people and nature. Here, People have been shaping embodies places that were neither entirely
ILLUSTRATION: JACQUI OAKLEY

Snowchange Cooperative is attempting to civilised nor empty. It’s a piece of vocabulary

revive the ancient tradition of winter seining.
nature for thousands of years. we’d do well to learn.
The tradition hasn’t quite vanished, but it’s In prehistory, our place in
fading fast. This method of fishing sees fishers Environmental journalist Sophie Yeo is the editor of
cut holes through the frozen lake and drop nature wasn’t defined by UK conservation magazine Inkcap Journal and author
massive nets into the water below. They target
mere presence or absence, of the book Nature’s Ghosts: The World We Lost and
vendace, a small fish with soft bones that How to Bring it Back, published by HarperNorth, £22.
swims in shoals through the dimly lit water. but of deep involvement @some_yeo

J U L /AU G 2 0 24 39
C OM P E T I T I O N

WIN

A SE VEN-NIGHT TRIP
TO C HILE FOR T WO
National Geographic Traveller (UK) has teamed up with Journey
Latin America, British Airways and Chile Travel for this prize

T H E D E S T I N AT I O N From top: Torres del Paine National Park,

Looking at it on a map, Chile is a thin sliver of southern Chilean Patagonia; a view of the
skyline in Santiago; street art in Valparaíso
land hugging South America’s surf-splashed
Pacific coastline, as long as it is narrow. On the
ground, it has incredible natural diversity: this
is a South American country with awe-inspiring, TO E N T E R
ever-shifting landscapes, from the snow- Answer the following question online
capped Andes and the otherworldly Atacama at natgeotv.com/uk/competitions
Desert in the north to the central vineyards and
turquoise Patagonian lakes in the south. In the W H AT ’ S T H E N A M E O F C H I L E ’ S
middle of all that is the capital Santiago, where A R I D, H I G H -A LT I T U D E D E S E RT ?
skyscrapers sit alongside neoclassical buildings,
and Valparaíso, a port city of steep lanes and Competition closes on 31 July 2024.
street art that’s long been associated with folk The winner must be a UK resident
heroes and dreamers. Along the way, travellers and aged 18 or over. Full T&Cs at
can kick back in wilderness lodges serving natgeotv.com/uk/competitions
world-class wines and delicious local cuisine.

THE PRIZE
Courtesy of specialist tour operator Journey
Latin America, British Airways and Chile Travel,
the winner and a guest will enjoy a seven-night
trip to Chile, including time in Santiago (three
IMAGES: GETTY; TERESA FISCHER; ALAMY

nights), Valparaíso (one night) and the southern

Lake District (three nights). The prize includes
direct return flights in World Traveller class
from Heathrow, accommodation based on two
sharing on a B&B basis, all internal transfers
— including domestic flights in economy class
— and three guided excursions. Valid for travel
in 2025 excluding departures in April, July,
August and December. Subject to availability.
journeylatinamerica.com ba.com chile.travel

40 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
 S M A RT T R AV E L L E R

MEET THE TRAILBLAZER

Edward Ndiritu
TH E KENYAN R AN G ER’ S WO RK HA S SEEN TH E NATI O N ’ S P OAC HIN G R ATE S
D IMI N I S H A N D O PP O RT U N ITI E S F O R LO C AL COM MU N ITI E S FLO U RI S H

When Edward Ndiritu joined Lewa Wildlife Conservancy

in central Kenya, as a rhino monitor in 1997, poaching had
already reduced the nation’s black rhino population from
around 20,000 in 1970 to fewer than 400 in 1989. Driven
by a fear that they might disappear completely, Edward
worked his way up the ranks to become the head of Lewa’s
anti-poaching unit. In 2015, his team’s community-minded
approach won him the first Wildlife Ranger Award from
conservation charity Tusk. Lewa’s rhino numbers are now
on the rise, but the threat of poaching endures.

What inspired you to become a ranger? I grew up in a

village between Mount Kenya and the Aberdare Range, once
a wildlife corridor for migratory elephants and black rhinos.
During our daily walks to school, my friends and I watched
them slowly vanish from the landscape. We soon came to
realise that the disappearances were down to both poaching
and the disruptive presence of the community as a whole.

What drives people to poach rhinos? The demand for

rhino horn, worth more than its weight in gold in Asia.
My team are not dealing with individuals hunting for
bushmeat but a vast and wealthy crime network. Behind
the poachers and the middlemen who pay them are the
facilitators, who supply the poachers with night-vision
goggles and silencers. Why is every poached rhino linked
back to someone within the community? Money — being
paid to give information to poachers can be very tempting.
In 2011 and 2012, we had a lot of challenges, in Lewa and
all over Africa. I remember losing four rhinos in two weeks.
It’s horrible: these animals weigh three tonnes but they’re where a poaching might occur. We also work much more
hunted for their horns alone. The rest is left to decay. closely with the community, now our first line of defence.
For years, a lack of tangible benefits meant local people saw
How has the challenge changed since then? When I first no value in conservation; today Lewa provides agricultural
joined Lewa, people would come into the park, camp out training, medical facilities, and business support for rural
overnight and then spend the day poaching. Now, they’ve women, which means locals are more likely to report a
upskilled: they have networks and gather intelligence from poaching before it happens.
the local community, so they know where to poach without
being spotted by a ranger. Then there’s the technological What kind of skills do you need to be good ranger? You
aspect. In the past, none of these guys had phones. need to be honest and hardy — wild animals don’t have
Nowadays they have phones and motorbikes. weekends — but also motivated: a happy ranger is a good
ranger. When I was first promoted, nobody understood
How have your units adapted? We’re using cameras, that ensuring the rangers’ wellbeing was the first step to
sensors, trackers and gathering lots of information using minimising poaching. Conservation is all about people.
our Domain Awareness System, which tells us when and
Do you feel hopeful about the future of wildlife
conservation in Lewa? I feel good, and I see hope, but
looking after the wildlife within the conservancy is not
Nobody understood that ensuring enough: you have to think about the people outside the
IMAGE: JOHN KIMANI

fence. Only when those communities are able to live

the rangers’ wellbeing was the harmoniously with the animals they see everyday will
first step to minimising poaching. there be a future for wildlife here. tusk.org
Read the full interview at nationalgeographic.com/travel
Conservation is all about people I N T E RV I E W: S A M K E M P

J U L /AU G 2 0 24 43
 W H AT ’ S O N L I N E

THE FU SION FL AVOURS

OF S INGAPORE
Singapore’s food culture is as diverse as its population, from its Michelin-starred
restaurants to its hawker stalls and family-run zi char joints. Words: Karlina Valeiko

The aroma of coffee fills the room — nutty and my guide, Naseem Huseni. “It’s not unusual to mizuna greens and Java apple, with crispy
chocolatey, with a pleasant smoky quality. see Malay ingredients used in Indian dishes, anchovies and a dressing of sesame and gula
I breathe it in before I see its origin: a plate or saffron with noodles.” melaka (a palm sugar with a deep, molasses-
heaped with crispy chicken slathered in dark, This blending of flavours and traditions like flavour) is a zingy standout. Its balance of
sticky coffee sauce. It arrives at my table also manifests itself in Singapore’s Peranakan sweet, salty and piquant notes is the perfect
accompanied by a dish of golden butter cereal culture, a centuries-long mixing of Chinese, counterpoint to the beef rendang (a melt-in-
prawns and moonlight horfun (stir-fried beef Malay and Indonesian influences that’s the-mouth Malaysian stew) and Candlenut’s
noodles with a raw egg in the middle). created its own language, art and cuisine. The take on ikan gulai (a fiery red snapper curry),
I’m at Keng Eng Kee Seafood, affectionately complex, and typically slow-cooked, dishes whose coconutty notes are a balm to the dish’s
known as Kek to its regulars. The third- of Peranakan cuisine, once out of fashion, are spicy burn.
generation, family-owned and -run restaurant enjoying a surge in popularity. The feast ends with buah keluak (candlenut
is one of Singapore’s zi char (‘cook fry’) It’s in no small part thanks to Candlenut, ice cream). “It can be highly toxic,” Naseem
establishments offering Chinese Hokkien food which in 2016 became the world’s first says, laying out the risks of an improperly
with Malay and Indian influences, served Peranakan restaurant to be awarded a prepared candlenut. I take the leap anyway
for everyone to share. “We’re all immigrants Michelin star. Its menu is updated monthly; and shove a whole spoonful into my mouth.
here; we’ve all come from somewhere,” says when I visit, a salad of sweetcorn, peppery READ MORE ONLINE

TOP
STORIE S
Here’s what you’ve
been enjoying on the
website this month F I L M LO C AT I O N S LG B TQ + C OM M U N I T Y R E S P O N S I B L E T R AV E L
Italian scene-setters Must-see destinations How to climb Mount Everest
How to beat the set-jetting crowds From Nova Scotia to Phnom Penh, New rules are changing the Everest
in some of the country’s most these places support and welcome Base Camp hiking experience to
popular destinations travellers with pride protect Sherpa communities

44 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
 B E YO N D T H E
THE DOG S SEEKING OUT THE T R AV EL S EC T I O N

WORLD ’ S R ARE ST DOLPHIN S

J O I N A D O L P H I N -S P OT T I N G B OAT T R I P I N A K A ROA , N E W Z E A L A N D, W H E R E
T H E G U I D E S C OM E F U R RY A N D F O U R- L E G G ED. WO R D S : N ATA S H A B A Z I K A

Buster’s ears perk up as he paces the starboard, Hector’s dolphins only venture up to around
scanning the vast expanse of blue water. 30 miles from Akaroa Harbour, not far from
He’s seen something — or rather, heard it. Christchurch, on New Zealand’s South Island.
“Dogs have remarkable hearing,” says George The waters I find myself bobbing on are the
Waghorn, skipper and co-owner of nature only destination in which to observe some of
cruise operator Akaroa Dolphins. “They can the 7,000 or so left in the world.
tune into the clicks and whistles of dolphins.” “Like us, the dogs follow a schedule,” says
Buster angles his head towards the water, George. Albie, his English springer spaniel,
as if eavesdropping on a conversation. His who joins us on the next cruise, has been
| E N V I R O N M E N T |
eyes fix on the surface and, sure enough, two sailing since he was barely out of puppyhood.
dolphins emerge from the depths. Passengers “He’s well tuned to the dolphin’s frequency,” The last flower at the top of
rush to the side in excitement, but Buster explains George, as Albie, splayed out next the world — and the perilous
remains composed, his duty — to spot to me, hangs his head over the edge as far journey to reach it
Hector’s dolphins, the world’s smallest and as it can go. Dolphin dogs like him undergo Scientists have found ingenious
rarest marine dolphins — fulfilled. minimal formal training. “It’s more about flora on a stretch of gravel off the
Salt-and-pepper-coloured, with nurturing their innate instincts.” coast of Greenland, the farthest
svelte bodies and rounded dorsal fins, READ MORE ONLINE north you can go and still walk on
land. natgeo.com/environment

| S C I E N C E |
Is flavour really just an illusion?
IMAGES: GETTY; NATASHA BAZIKA; JEFF KIRBY; CARLTON WARD; NATIONAL

A unifying definition of what

flavour is continues to escape
those who study it. The only thing
scientists agree on is what it is not
GEOGRAPHIC; LUCA TETTONI/BRIDGEMAN IMAGES; ALAMY

— but it comes down to a series

of tricks your brain plays on you.
natgeo.com/science

| H I S T O R Y |
A colourful history of red lipstick
A symbol of opulence or a sign of
witchcraft? From its early use by
sex workers in ancient Greece to
its place as a symbol of glamour,
lipstick has long been associated
VI S IT N ATG E O.C OM / TR AV E L FO R N E W TR AVEL FE AT U RE S DAILY with beauty, power and rebellion.
natgeo.com/history

S E A RC H F O R
N ATG E OT R AV E LU K

FAC E B O O K
I N S TAG R A M
X

WELLNESS EXPERIENCES MINDFULNESS A DV E N T U R E T R I P S

UNESCO-protected practices Make the most of public gardens Everglades National Park
An Indonesian elixir is the latest In recent years, these spaces Journey to the southern tip
tradition to be acknowledged for have sought to deepen visitors’ of Florida to visit the largest
its contribution to heritage connection with nature subtropical wilderness in the US

J U L /AU G 2 0 24 45
 WEEKENDER

DANISH L AKES
From the 19th-century mill town of Silkeborg, the lakelands of the Jutland
peninsula unfurl like giant droplets in a region ripe for kayaking, wild
swimming and languid summer walks. Words: Anna Melville-James

For travellers, Denmark’s Jutland peninsula watermill at Klostermølle to Silkeborg

is often shorthand for Legoland in the town town, Denmark’s so-called ‘outdoor capital’.
of Billund or, at a push, the lively city of While officially Denmark’s highest region,
Aarhus. However, Danes know that the this area is still remarkably untroubled by
farm, forest and fen of this region are the gradients, with flat horizons in every direction
real treats — especially the Lake District and an active, easy living vibe. The airports
Søhøjlandet in the centre. at Aarhus and Billund, both around an hour
In 85sq miles of forest are some 50 from Silkeborg, mean you can leave the
freshwater lakes, many strung along the UK and be here in under three hours. From
Gudenå River that cuts through the area. June to August, the town is an ideal base for
Jutland’s largest lake, Mos, is here, along exploration, with a lively harbour full of music
with Julsø, Brassø and Borresø on the central and open-air cafes, surrounded by water and
18-mile stretch that runs from the historic forests of pine and beech.
 TO P F I V E
Hygge local
dining spots

B R A N DT B R Ø D
Start the day at this modern
waterside cafe in Silkeborg
with crisp white, blue and
red decor — tables go fast
and by 10am, they’re full.
Order a cinnamon snurre
pastry or warm rolls and
butter, and get inspired to
join the bakery’s sourdough
bread-making courses in
the adjoining workshop.
brandtbroed.dk

DREWSENS SPISEHUS
This buzzy cafe in
Silkeborg’s old Town
Hall has a breakfast and
brunch menu serving
everything from poke
bowls to charcuterie and
rye-bread toasties. From
June to August, nab a table
outside to watch jazz bands
perform in the town square.
spisehus.drewsens.com

N Y H AT T E N Æ S
This lake house hotel on
the edge of Sikeborg offers
views of Brassø, as well as
breakfast spreads that
Traditional smørrebrød open include cheese platters
sandwich of cream cheese, and homemade pastries.
spinach and smoked salmon Even if you’re not staying,
Left: Kayaking and swimming enjoy stylish modern Danish
are popular in the lakelands cuisine in the candlelit
restaurant or on the
outdoor terrace — book well
ahead. nyhattenaes.com

DAY O N E K AYAKING & CR AF T BEER S VO S T R U P K R O

On the Gudenå River north
Morning Afternoon Evening of Silkeborg, there’s been
From the heart of Silkeborg, Return your watercraft and head The Lake District is home to a waterside restaurant at
originally an industrial 19th- out to nearby Almindsø, one of one of the country’s oldest this spot for 200 years. It
century paper mill town and now Denmark’s cleanest lakes. Here, microbreweries, Grauballe offers hearty dishes in tiny
an outdoors hub, the Gudenå the curved floating walkways of Bryghus, which has been brewing dining rooms around a

River winds south, connecting the Østre Søbad swimming area unfiltered and unpasteurised cobbled courtyard; if you’ve
kayaked from town, try the
many of the region’s biggest lakes. offer a protected spot for a dip hoppy beers since 2002. Buy
hearty bargeman’s stew of
Hire a kayak from the Silkeborg that changes with the seasons. signature brews such as Honey
pork, bacon and sausage.
Kanocenter and start from the From autumn to spring, hardy Gold and Enebær Stout to enjoy
There are also 16 bedrooms
town centre or pick up boats and Danes come to slip into mirror-like by the waterside — the shop on upstairs. svostrup-kro.dk
standup paddleboards at the water so cold it steals your breath. Hagemannsvej in Silkeborg is open
self-service Kayakomat at the Ly In summer, it’s easy to while away on Fridays or by appointment. ORANGERIET
Outdoor campground a 25-minute the afternoon here, sunbathing Newer breweries include Virklund Try eclectic, often
walk away. An hour’s paddle from on the small sand beach and Bryghus, also in Silkeborg, and experimental Danish cooking
Silkeborg brings you to the first big enjoying refreshing swims against Bøllingsø Bryghus in nearby in this dining room of large
lake, Brassø, where you glide along a lush forest backdrop, followed Engesvang, a 12-minute train windows and relaxed vibes.
The frequently changing
through air scented with pine and by Danish Kastbergs Gourmet ride away. At the latter, order
menu offers tasting plates,
IMAGES: ALAMY; GETTY

petrichor. There are plenty of ice cream from the kiosk. If the smørrebrød, open rye-bread
and the food showcases
places along the riverbank to pull weather is chilly, warm up in the sandwiches, or the pork roast
seasonal ingredients,
up at on the way there — grab mixed lakeside sauna after a swim; with potatoes and parsley sauce pepped up with piquant
salads and wraps from Green Habits book in advance on the Visit Aarhus to go with your beers. grauballe- local forest tastes of
in Silkeborg before you set off. website, and be prepared to forgo bryghus.dk virklundbryghus.dk woodruff and wild garlic.
oplevgudenaa.dk greenhabits.dk your costume. visitaarhus.com boellingsoebryghus.dk orangeriet.dk

J U L /AU G 2 0 24 47
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 WEEKENDER

Below: Silkeborg DAY T WO FORESTS & FAIRY TALES

museum during a
sunny day in Denmark
Morning Afternoon Evening
Exploring on two wheels is easy The Lake District’s dark forests Experiencing the forest in the
here, with extensive bike lanes inspired many of Hans Christian deepest dark reveals a whole new
and flat trails — hire wheels from Andersen’s fairytales, some side to it, with a natural nocturnal
Silkeborg Sø camping (from of which were first printed at performance of different sights and
DKK125/£14 per day) and pedal the Silkeborg’s paper factory. To follow sounds starting up when the sun
7.5-mile Silk Route around the town in the writer’s footsteps, stride goes down. How close you want
centre — or out to Himmelbjerit, out through Douglas firs in the to get to nature here depends
‘Sky Mountain’. This hyperbolically forest bordering the town to the on your adventure levels — the
named hill, gently rising to 482ft south, breathing in the fresh air and Danish Nature Agency allows wild
in the pancake-flat landscape, was listening out for trolls. For a more sleeping on the forest floor on
a favourite thinking place of Hans structured exploration, join a ranger a mat, under a tarpaulin or in a
Christian Andersen, who once lived at Silkeborg’s Aqua Aquarium & hammock in specific areas, which
in the area. It’s a 50-minute bike Wildlife Park for a foraging tour. is an experience known as fri
ride to the base from Silkeborg, The park is a snapshot of the local teltning or ‘free tenting’. If you
then a 15-minute hike. Alternatively, ecosystem, home to cheeky otters, aren’t feeling quite so hardy, you
travel on Hjejlen, the Golden Plover, sharp-toothed pike and industrious can always spend the night in
one of the world’s oldest coal- beavers, the woods around it a cabin in one of the campsites
fired steamers still in operation, carpeted in blueberries, ground dotted throughout the Lake
which runs from Silkeborg to Sky elder, nettles and wild garlic in District instead. Facilities are basic,
TO P T H R E E Mountain down the Gudenå River in summer. Collect your bounty, then but there are often firepits for
Lake District 75 minutes from May to September. return to Aqua to make homemade roasting marshmallows, which
museums You can hop on and off en route pizzas using the park’s open-air can be enjoyed alongside the
— hoist the pennant on the steamer oven, or traditional twisted bread unseen, but often heard, arboreal
S I LKE BORG M U S E U M jetties to stop the ferry as it passes. to toast on a stick over the firepit. companions. eng.naturstyrelsen.dk
This 18th-century mansion seacamp.dk hjejleselskabet.dk visitaqua.dk udinaturen.dk
museum is full of history,
but the Tollund Man is the
big draw. The perfectly
preserved Iron Age
corpse was found in the
Bjældskovdal bog just
outside Silkeborg in 1950.
It feels almost intrusive
to gaze at Tollund Man’s
inadvertent time travel,
but nevertheless, you’ll
find it hard to look away.
museumsilkeborg.dk

JORN MUSEUM
Expressionist Asger Jorn
left 5,000 works to his home
town of Silkeborg, with
pieces from bold abstract
paintings to tapestry
housed in this modern
space. Jorn believed
everyone could make art
and a lively programme
of art workshops pays
homage to his wishes.
museumjorn.dk

MEMPHIS MUSEUM
This replica Graceland in
the fjord city of Randers is a
homage to Elvis by superfan
Henrick Knudsen, who’s
collected memorabilia
since childhood. Spot him
amid what is now one of
the world’s largest private
collections, talking to
IMAGE: ALAMY

Presley pilgrims — who have

previously included Elvis
Costello and Van Morrison.
memphismansion.dk

J U L /AU G 2 0 24 49
WEEKENDER

Jazz bash
Syncopated beats
fill Silkeborg at
the end of June
when the annual
Riverboat Jazz
Festival comes to
town. The five-day
celebration is
one of northern
Europe’s largest
classic jazz
festivals. It offers
music cruises,
outdoor ‘jazz
gardens’, children’s
events and myriad
performances
in spaces from
restaurants and
bars to churches
and museums;
most are free.
riverboat.dk

Left: The paddle steamer

SS Hjejlen, built in 1861
and still operational, in the
Lake District Søhøjlandet

HOW TO DO IT
Aarhus and Billund
international airports
are both around an hour’s
drive from Silkeborg.
British Airways flies to
Billund from Heathrow and
Manchester. Ryanair flies
TH RE E MO RE SWIM MING L AKES to Billund from Edinburgh,
Manchester and Stansted,
Schoubyes Lyngsø Slåensø and to Aarhus from Stansted.
While not exactly balmy, the lower Formed from an Ice Age South of Borresø in the Sønderskov Average flight time: 1h35m.
water levels of this aquamarine depression, Lyngsø (not to be wood, this wild lake is located ba.com ryanair.com
bathing lake in the woods to the confused with the larger Langsø, in some of Denmark’s hilliest The direct 113 bus service
east of Silkeborg mean it’s a bit sprawling through the town) landscapes and has water so clean from Aarhus to Silkeborg
warmer than most others in the touches Silkeborg’s north edge and you can drink it. Between the 269ft- takes an hour. One-way
region. Excavated in the 1960s, Kobskov forest on its southern side. high viewpoint of Kongestolen, tickets cost DKK75 (£8.60).
Schoubyes is an artificial lake, It only takes around 20 minutes to (‘King’s seat’) to the south and the midttrafik.dk
although you’d never guess it, walk to this urban body of water Nordic region’s tallest tree, a 170ft Stay at the boutique
cradled as it is in thick foliage that from Silkeborg. While it’s not the Oregon pine, it’s a wild little ‘valley’ lakeside Ny Hattenæs
hides the outside world, with lots most beautiful lake in the region, of natural beauty. There’s a red on the outskirts of town
of small sandy beaches on which to it’s a convenient spot for a quick dip swamp on its south side, coloured overlooking Brassø. From
throw down a blanket. It’s a good in the warmer months and there by the natural ochre in the spring DKK1,695 (£195), B&B.
spot for wild-swimming novices are plenty of cafes nearby to visit water that runs into the lake. Even nyhattenaes.com
IMAGE: ALAMY

and also one of the cleanest lakes afterwards. There’s also a 1.5-mile in high summer, it’s fairly easy to
in Denmark, making it popular with Lyngsø Loop walking trail, which find a private sandy spot, with MORE INFO
families and a busy destination in circles the lake and takes around only dragonflies and brown trout visitaarhus.com
the summer. half an hour if you’re ambling. for company. visitdenmark.com

50 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
 A R
G A

R K
O C

ELEGANT SUMMER ESCAPES

WITH PRICES YOU CAN’T RESIST

Kick back at our boutique hotel in South Devon and enjoy good food,
tipples on the terrace, relaxing spa treatments and endless sea views.

gararock.com | Near Salcombe, Devon | 01548 845946

 E AT

SOUTH DEVON
The humble farm shop has become a gourmet go-to in this beach-blessed
slice of the South West, where rolling hills also host medal-winning wineries
and distillers make spirits recalling Devon’s rum-running pirate days

WORDS: SAR AH BARRELL

“Local craft ale was once a favourite, but Large-scale farm shops like Greendale are
ciders, particularly small-batch, are back,” says becoming the norm here in South Devon,
Greendale Farm Shop’s ruddy-cheeked Rich dotting the county’s rolling pasturelands.
Jones, holding up a jerrycan labelled ‘Proper In fact, there’s another just minutes from
Job’. “It’s a Devon scrumpy made with our Greendale — Darts Farm, a ‘lifestyle shopping
apples by Keith Hosein, an 80-year-old local destination’ that’s grown out of a farm hut.
farmer who still uses a hand crusher.” And, while South Devon farm-food enterprises
A Devon farm shop stocked with cider is no like Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall’s River
surprise, but what is astonishing is Greendale’s Cottage and Riverford Organic Farmers’ veg
multitude of local goods, from veggies, cheese, boxes have long garnered national attention, a
meat and preserves to pastries, sourdough, ice multitude of other local farm-food powerhouses
cream and souvenirs. All are either produced has blossomed in recent years.
on site or are West Country sourced, filling Just south along the River Exe, something
a giant barn and outbuildings akin to a else is flourishing. I follow lanes twittering
rustic mall. “The shop started 15 years ago, with spring life, to Exmouth, where the
IMAGES: MARCO KESSELER; GETTY; RARE & PASTURE; GARY HOLPIN

selling farm eggs from a roadside shed,” says vineyard at Lympstone Manor Estate has
Rich. “But during Covid we really became a just produced its first classic cuvée. Rows of
community hub and have grown a lot since.” vines lend Continental panache to the hotel’s
Not only has Greendale’s restaurant capacity grounds, which rake steeply from Georgian
doubled, queues for its weekend ‘farmer’s manor to estuary. Premium sparkling wine was Clockwise from top left:
breakfast’ go out the door. It’s also home to Lympstone’s headline mission in 2018 when Milk bread with lion’s
a chippie, which shifts 200 kilos of fish from planting Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier and Pinot mane mushroom, cep
Friday to Sunday. Noir, but the latter has so far yielded the biggest foam and caerphilly from

Yet quality, as well as quantity, prevails. surprise. “After 2020’s long, hot summer, we let Somerset’s Westcombe
Dairy, served at Circa;
People travel cross-county for its butcher’s the Pinot Noir grapes hang,” says Lympstone’s
the red cliff face that
handmade sausages and four-week-matured Steve Edwards, referring to the practice of
forms part of Salcombe
boned steak. Lobster tanks, house-smoked fish harvesting grapes for red wines later than usual.
Hill, near Sidmouth;
and a bounty of local catch grace the wet-fish “It’s always a risk — frost and fungus are a terror Rare & Pasture’s Organic
counter. Above it, photos feature Greendale’s in this country,” says the Australian ex-pat, Country Pâté; houses
fishing fleet in action at its harbour bases in “but we won gold at the 2023 International built around Bayard’s
Brixham, Newlyn and Exeter. Wine Challenge.” Not bad for a first harvest, Cove Fort, Dartmouth

52 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
J U L /AU G 2 0 24 53
 E AT

A TA S T E O F
South Devon

THE ANGEL
A waterfront Dartmouth spot
run by former MasterChef:
The Professionals finalist Elly
Wentworth. She leads a young
team delivering British cooking
with international flavours, plus
plenty of local fish, including
roasted sea bass with turnip
pickle, pak choi and smoked
sea lettuce (pictured). Six-
course tasting menu £95.
The Bramble cocktail from Bar Buoy theangeldartmouth.co.uk
Right: A la carte dish at The Angel
CAFE ODE
Come for the ginger cake, stay for
special-event supper clubs at this
I say — and for an English red, no less. Steve bread with lion’s mane mushroom, cep and wood cabin-like hilltop cafe above
nods. “Everyone associates English wine with caerphilly from Somerset’s Westcombe Dairy. the bay at Shaldon. Michel Roux-
sparkling, but there’s an amazing future for I’m still mooning over that dish as I drive trained chef-owner Tim Bouget
high-quality still wines.” 45 minutes south to Salcombe. Here, where brings finesse to cafe dishes, like
I try both: the biscuity, zesty cuvée at the Kingsbridge Estuary meets the Blue Flag panko-breaded Brixham dayboat
Lympstone’s lounge bar; the brambly fruit beaches of the South Hams — strung in long, fish and mugs of coconut-rich
Triassic Pinot Noir at dinner, which pairs well sandy arcs towards Plymouth and the Cornish curried green lentil dahl. Dishes
with a gamey poached chicken from South border — it’s easy to get into the holiday spirit. £4-20. odetruefood.com
Devon’s Creedy Carver farm. TV chef Michael Literally, at Devon Rum, where, in summer,
Caines, Lympstone’s chef-owner, has sensibly you can dock at its shop, which backs onto THE BULL INN
decked out his Michelin-starred dining room the estuary, for cocktails and tastings of rums Hippie hilltop town Totnes has
with booth seating, so diners can relax into blended on site with Devon spring water, spices fast become a foodie hub. Since
nine-course tasting menus featuring Lyme Bay and raw spirits from Jamaica and Guyana. opening in 2019, The Bull Inn has
crab, Newlyn cod and lamb grazed across the Opened in 2022, the artisan spirit-maker led the charge with veg-centered,
estuary at the Powderham Estate’s farm. has a standard entrance on Island Street, just organic dishes like roast celeriac,
Located close to the Dart Estuary in the along from Salcombe Gin’s similar fisherman’s skordalia, charred leeks, goat’s
beautiful stone-built village of Stoke Gabriel, shed-like HQ. But mooring up for, say, a Devon curd, chard and pumpkin seed
Sharpham Wine is another medal-winner for Meadow, made with elderflower tonic, a picada sauce. Two courses around
its reds. With around 40 years and 30 acres sprig of rosemary, fresh lime juice and local £40. bullinntotnes.co.uk
under its belt, accolades aren’t in short supply honey-spiced rum adds a delightfully piratey
across a range that’s increasingly focused on edge to proceedings. VA L L E Y V I E W C A F É
low-intervention varieties. Set in a former Meanwhile, small-batch cocktails, built for With views across the South Hams,
dairy farm on Sandridge Barton Estate, it has beachgoers and boaties, are on offer at Bar Buoy, Aune Valley Farm Shop is an idyll
two tasting rooms, the newer of which is set over in Exmouth. “During lockdown, we started that’s grown from modest hut to
IMAGES: AMY VANN; JOSH CAMPBELL

in a shingle-floor barn with sheepskins and going to the beach to surf with our kids and took sprawling cafe, deli and ‘milk shed’
a wood burner, overlooking a new plot of a shaker to make sundowner margaritas,” says for flavoured shakes. The Butcher’s
organic vines. Ria Ball, who founded the bar with her husband, Breakfast comes with farm
Circa, once the darling of Exeter’s dining Tim. “Friends started joining us, so we brought sausages and bacon, the hog roast
scene, has moved out of the city and into the cocktails mixed at home in thermos flasks and, bap is made here with Aune’s belly
estate’s former milking shed, offering pairings well, it all started from there.” Locals got a taste pork, and cream teas star locally
with small plates showcasing house pickles and for the young couple’s ready-to-serve tipples made preserves and Devonshire
foraged fare. The single-estate Pinot Gris brings and a business grew out of their garage, which clotted cream. Mains around £9-11.
an earthy edge to a lunch of dessert-sweet milk expanding swiftly into a chic, nautical-themed aunevalleymeat.co.uk

J U L /AU G 2 0 24 55
E AT

Below from left: Amrit Madhoo,

co-owner of South Devon Chilli Farm;
vineyard, Lympstone Manor Estate

FIVE FOOD FINDS

THUNDER & LIGHTNING

A preternaturally creamy ice cream
from the UK’s first carbon-neutral
farm. It’s made using an old recipe
from the family’s grandma and
contains honeycomb and clotted
cream from Langage’s Jersey herd.
langagefarm.com

C H I L L I JA M
The signature fiery-sweet warehouse where you can now taste a range include Bloody Margaret, a spicy tomato sauce
condiment from long-established of 12 pre-mixed cocktails. From a sweet-bitter with house-made gin; the dune-backed wonder
South Devon Chilli Farm, whose Devon Stormy made with Exeter’s Two Drifters of Hope Bay’s sandy coves; and the elegance
impressive seed-growing set-up rum to a lemon-tart bramble with Salcombe of Plymouth’s Barbican district, where Jacka
is fast expanding since Amrit and Gin and Six Liqueurs Blackberry Liqueur, local bakery’s ‘croissant wheels’ are somehow as
Jenny Madhoo took over in 2022. ingredients are the cocktails’ cornerstone. delicate as they are super-sized — and all from
southdevonchillifarm.co.uk I resist a stomach-lining Docker’s Egg, premises that have been baking since 1597.
the signature take on a scotch egg using Britain’s oldest bakery looks like a pup
smoked haddock served at nearby deli Fish compared to nearby Boringdon Hall. The
B L AC K F O OT C H A RC U T E R I E on the Quay. Instead I take a sunny seat by hotel, set in a Domesday Book-listed country
Buttery, gamey air-dried ham, Exmouth’s slipway at Rockfish: a premium manor, is home to Àclèaf, a Michelin-starred
capicola, salami and nduja are made spot for some plump, briny Portland Pearl spot in a mezzanine overlooking the 16th-
from Iberian pigs raised on organic oysters and buttery, hand-dived scallops. I century Great Hall. Halos of wildflowers
pastures at 500-acre Fowlescombe buy a can of Lyme Bay mussels from Rockfish’s and herbs frame complex dishes, described
Farm. rareandpasture.com new canned seafood range. Like everything simply as ‘crab’ or ‘hen’. The cheese course is
on the menu, the sustainable catch is landed a medieval feast in keeping with Boringdon’s
daily in Brixham, 30 miles south, by Rockfish’s carved oakwood panelling, with breads, local
S I N G L E M A LT boats. Owner Mark Hix, an abiding champion honey still in the comb and a standout brie
Dartmoor Whisky’s remarkable of British seafood, will soon add to his ever- from South Devon’s Sharpham Cheese. With
English single malts are made with expanding South West portfolio with similarly no mead to hand, I settle, happily, for a glass of
Dartmoor spring water in bourbon, idyllic waterfront locations at Salcombe, local Lyme Bay Winery’s multi-award-winning
sherry and Bordeaux casks. Book Topsham and Sidmouth, the latter with its Rosé Brut. Deep pink with strawberry notes,
tastings among the copper stills own moat. sipping it while sampling the Jersey-milk brie
in the Victorian grandeur of South Devon has no shortage of seaside is like having a deconstructed cream tea. And
IMAGES: MATT BRIGHT; LYMPSTONE MANOR

Bovey Tracey’s former town hall. dining spots, many now encompassed by the as Devon convention dictates, I go cream first,
dartmoorwhiskydistillery.co.uk South West 660. The coast-hugging road trip, then ‘jam’.
launched in 2022, showcases the best of Dorset,
Devon, Cornwall and Somerset in 12 distinct HOW TO DO IT: In Dartmouth, Alf’s Rooms has
JUBULANI 50-mile sections, with detailed route notes and doubles from £70. alfsrooms.com
A smooth, fruity, rich award-winner dining suggestions for travellers registered Lympstone Manor has doubles from £346.50,
made with beans from a partner through its website. I cover just a fraction of B&B. Tasting menus from £230 per person.
women’s collective in Rwanda. Visit the Devon leg, but each turn is a wow. There’s lympstonemanor.co.uk
the Ivybridge cafe-roastery for the windblown beauty of Burgh Island in its Boringdon Hall has doubles from £135, B&B. Tastings
barista classes and tasting sessions. tidal isolation at Bigbury-on-Sea, where The menus from £120 per person. boringdonhall.co.uk
owenscoffee.com Oyster Shack serves oysters with toppings that southwest660.com visitsouthdevon.co.uk

56 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
THE FALKLAND ISLANDS
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WKHFDOORIELUGVDQG\RXUIRRWVWHSV([SORUHWKHVWXQQLQJVXUURXQGLQJVRIVDQG\ZKLWH
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www.falklandislands.com
www.facebook.com/FITBTourism
www.instagram.com/ilovethefalklands
 S LE E P

ROME

ALL RATES QUOTED ARE FOR STANDARD DOUBLES, ROOM ONLY, UNLESS
OTHERWISE STATED. IMAGES: AWL IMAGES; MAMA SHELTER ROMA

Not for nothing is Rome called the Eternal City. Time loses its meaning in
the Italian capital: ancient Roman remains are mixed in with Renaissance
palazzos, and grand baroque squares sit alongside imposing neoclassical
architecture. Presiding over it all is a skyline that undulates with church
domes — including St Peter’s, designed by Michelangelo, which beckons
visitors towards the Vatican. Over the past decade, the hotel scene has
become as multilayered as Rome itself. You’ll find tiny boutique properties,
swaggering grande dames and family-run guesthouses here — and, as the
city demands, there’s history in every one of them.

WORDS: JULIA BUCKLEY

58 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
Best for kitsch
£ £ M A M A S H E LT E R
These two conjoined brutalist office blocks
are local landmarks in the elegant Prati
neighbourhood west of the River Tiber — so
much so that they even featured in Dino Risi’s
seminal 1962 film Il Sorpasso. In 2021, the
interiors became as striking as the facade, when
the offices were replaced by the behemoth 217-
room Mama Shelter. A 10-minute stroll from
the Vatican — St Peter’s dome is well within
sight of the rooftop bar — it’s a kitsch version of
italianità (Italianness), from the lobby carpet
adorned with pizzas and Roman emperors
to the clashing colours and columns of the
ground-floor pizzeria and the basement take on
Roman baths. Rooms pair swirling carpets with
Renaissance-style upholstery, such as lions
rampaging through foliage, while an extra
£20 or so nets you a room with a balcony.
R O O M S : From €166 (£142), B&B.
mamashelter.com

J U L /AU G 2 0 24 59
60
N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
IMAGES: HOTEL L’OROLOGIO ROMA; DARIO BORRUTO; SIX SENSES
 SLEEP

Best for location

£ £ H OT E L L’O RO LO G I O
Have you got the time? You will at ‘The Watch
Hotel’, which opened in 2022. The walls are
covered in artwork of Rolexes, the bedside
lights look like moving cogs, and handles for
drawers, doors and bathroom taps are shaped
like second hands. The obsession is down to
the owner, who has amassed one of the world’s
largest watch collections — those paintings
on the walls are his prized possessions. Yet
it’s surprisingly classy, as befits its location, a
belle époque palazzo behind Piazza Navona
in the heart of the city. Facing the Pantheon,
the rooftop bar Santa serves cocktails themed
by time zone. Its near 360-degree views, from
St Peter’s to Piazza Venezia, make guests feel
truly immersed in Rome.
R O O M S : From €210 (£180), B&B.
hotelorologioroma.com

Best for style

£ £ £ PA L A Z ZO R I P E T TA
Near busy Piazza del Popolo, this convent-
like oasis served as a shelter for impoverished
young women between 1675 and 1961. Its
history is recalled through the Roman
sarcophagus in the courtyard, restored by the
palazzo’s 19th-century inhabitants, and the
restaurant, whose walls are lined with photos
of the women and the crafts they made here.
Converted into a hotel in 1961 by Luigi Moretti
Pizza at BIVIUM restaurant,
— the ‘Italian Gaudí’ — it was upgraded into a
Six Senses Rome
family-owned five-star in 2022. Bright rooms
Clockwise from left: A
pastry chef at Palazzo feature colourful furniture and beds fitted
Ripetta; terrace view from with luxury Frette sheets, while public areas
Hotel L’Orologio; junior display the Crisci family’s own art collection.
suite at Palazzo Ripetta The vast courtyard, La Piazzetta, contains
a bar as well as the top-notch Abruzzese
restaurant San Baylon.
R O O M S : From €550 (£469), B&B.
palazzoripetta.com

Best for positive impact

£ £ £ S I X S E N S E S ROM E
Sustainability is engrained in the ethos at
15th-century Palazzo Salviati Cesi Mellini,
near Piazza Venezia. The hotel — which
opened in 2023 and was awarded LEED
Gold certification for its environmentally
conscious remodelling — runs on green
energy, the guestrooms are clad in local
travertine and the plant-heavy restaurant
menu features locally sourced ingredients.
Organic herbs are grown on the rooftop,
where there’s a bar, and magicked into
liqueurs, and part of the proceeds from every
stay go towards local community projects. As
for the experience, it’s as luxurious as you’d
expect, from the silky Rivolta Carmignani
sheets in the tranquil, wood-clad rooms to the
recreated Roman baths in the basement.
R O O M S : From €1,000 (£857), B&B.
sixsenses.com

J U L /AU G 2 0 24 61
 SLEEP

Best for glitz

£ £ £ PA L A Z ZO ROM A
There’s something in the air at Palazzo Roma. The 2024 transformation of a 17th-
century patrician palazzo on Via del Corso, two blocks from the Trevi Fountain,
has been scented by Rome’s legendary perfumier, Laura Bosetti Tonatto, who’s
infused everything from the toiletries to the corridors with what smells like church
incense. Up the marble staircase and beyond the frescoed restaurant is a brilliantly
flamboyant hotel. The 39 plush rooms are eclectic to say the least — art deco-style
lines mixed with brightly coloured walls and humbug stripes — while the public
spaces are equally outré, with disembodied conductor’s hands emerging from the
wall in the Music Lounge. It’s all as fun as the charming staff — no wonder it’s gone
straight onto the books of the Leading Hotels of the World.
R O O M S : from €425 (£363), B&B. palazzoroma.com

Best for views Best for atmosphere Best for seclusion

£ £ OT I U M £ H OT E L L A N C E LOT £ £ D OM U S L I B E R A
In the postwar years, this building was the HQ of In 1959, Canadian Helen Khan stayed in a pensione Rome does a brilliant line in tiny, semi-staffed
Italy’s Communist Party. Since becoming a hotel in in a 1930s apartment block behind the Colosseum. boutique properties, and this is one of the loveliest.
2022, it’s much more geared towards capitalism, She loved it so much that she eventually bought it, Renaissance artist Sebastiano del Piombo is thought
with a gold check-in desk that segues into a low-lit expanding it into a 66-room hotel and stuffing it to have had his studio here, tucked behind Piazza
IMAGE: PIETRO MASTURZO

bar with mirrored tables. The mid-century-inspired with antiques, from art deco chairs to old prints of Venezia on a cobbled alleyway. You might feel
rooms are compact but comfy. The one to book is the Rome. Helen is now 95, and her children carry on the equally inspired by the six beautiful rooms. The style
‘doppia deluxe experience’, with a terrace looking tradition: daughter Lubna manages it, chef son Faris blends Philippe Starck-designed details (like a sink
towards the ancient Jewish Quarter. Otherwise, have cooks legendary three-course dinners then sits down in the shape of an espresso cup) with original beams
a cocktail on the sixth-floor rooftop, with views of the with guests to eat. Plump for a sixth-floor terrace and gauzy drapes. The cheery staff are in during the
Vittoriano monument dominating Piazza Venezia. room for eye-popping views of the Colosseum. day, and available by WhatsApp out of hours.
R O O M S : From €200 (£171), B&B. otiumhotel.eu R O O M S : From €140 (£120), B&B. lancelothotel.com R O O M S : From €170 (£145), B&B. domuslibera.com

J U L /AU G 2 0 24 63
SLEEP

A chic bedroom in one of

the suites at The Guardian
Left: View of the Piazzale
Flaminio square from
Casa Montani

Best for homeliness Best for budget

£ C A SA MO N TA N I £ T H E G UA R D I A N
Through the grand entrance hall, along the With its sunny, brightly coloured guestrooms,
marble-clad corridors and up to the third floor smart bathrooms and art-covered corridors,
in the 100-year-old lift — arriving at Casa this hotel would cost at least double if located
Montani feels like calling in at a family’s home. in the historic city centre. Out here in the
And in a way, it is. Giuseppe Montani crafted neighbourhood of Esquilino, in a 19th-century
this nine-room B&B from his nonna’s old flat belle époque building an easy 10-minute
IMAGES: CASA MONTANI; THE GUARDIAN/AG HOTELS

at Flaminio, just beyond Piazza del Popolo. walk north of Termini train station, you get
Spread across two floors (rooms upstairs, suites incredible bang for your buck. Breakfast is a
downstairs), the comfortable digs are full of loaded buffet spread, while in the evening,
family heirlooms, including 18th-century the sixth-floor Terrazza Costanza bar is
Roman postcards sent by Giuseppe’s ancestors packed with guests enjoying the sunset at
to family in Abruzzo, a tapestry painted by aperitivo hour. They get to sip their cocktails
Giuseppe’s nonna herself, and furniture from overlooking the lush gardens of the British
their country house. Added to this unique Embassy, as well as Porta Pia — one of the
heritage are bathrooms clad in buttery northern gates of Rome, famously designed by
travertine tiles, with Ortigia toiletries, and Michelangelo in the 1560s — and the Tiburtini
breakfast served in-room on elegant trolleys. Mountains in the distance.
R O O M S : From €120 (£103), B&B. R O O M S : from €145 (£124), B&B.
casamontani.com theguardianhotel.it

64 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
 c o a s t a l
california
 RO S E- H U ED S U N S E T S OVER SAN D A N D S U R F, H ER ITAG E SWIM C LU B S
A N D U N I Q U E W I LD LI FE I S LE S , P O U N D I N G WAV E S A N D EPI C D R I V E S
— TH E G O LD EN S TATE I S AT IT S MO S T B E AU TI FU L B E S I D E TH E WATER .
FROM SAN FR AN C I SCO TO L A , HERE’ S TH E B E ST O F TH I S ICO N IC COA S T

W O R D S : R I C H A R D F R A N K S , Z O E Y G O T O & FA R I D A Z E Y N A L O VA
IMAGE: GETTY

J U L /AU G 2 0 24 67
CALIFORNIA

imming
sw

time and tide

Members of the historic Dolphin Club have been braving the waters of the San Francisco Bay
for over a century. Now, regulars and travellers alike come together against the backdrop of
the Golden Gate Bridge to reap the benefits of a bracing dip. Words: Zoey Goto

Diane Walton clearly remembers the first time she plunged “When I’m out there swimming, the mundane
into the frigid waters of the San Francisco Bay, almost conversations that whirl around in my brain just dissipate,”
20 years ago. “It was so cold that I thought my organs Diane says as we watch a young woman in a black bikini
might explode!” the 73-year-old says, her long, grey hair dive beneath the water. “It’s like a miracle.”
streaming behind her as we sit on a wooden jetty basking She explains how she often shares the sea with herons,
in the bright, mid-morning Californian sunshine. One of sea lions, harbour seals and sharks — “but just the tiny
the local sea lions strung out along the sand barks a laugh guys,” she says with a reassuring smile. She adds: “We’re a
as if in response. remarkably diverse bunch who come in all shapes and sizes
Today, the water lapping at our ankles is a brisk 12.7C. — this is a safe space for all.”
But you wouldn’t know it from watching the swimmers While, admittedly, it’s still considered a little leftfield to
around us, who are snapping on goggles and whooping plunge into the bay, San Francisco has long been shaped
happily as they wade easily into the Aquatic Park, an urban by the water. Today, wineries such as Treasure Island, on
beach on San Francisco’s northeast shore. a tiny islet that once hosted a naval base, are utilising the
As regular as clockwork, Diane swims here four times a high humidity and cooling mists to create unique small-
week against the cinematic backdrop of the Golden Gate batch tipples, while downtown a number of restaurants
Bridge. This morning, though, in her role as president of are getting creative with the ocean’s spoils. One of the
the Dolphin Club — a volunteer-run, open-water swimming standouts, Chīsai Sushi Club, has incorporated the invasive
and rowing organisation founded in 1877 — she’s showing purple sea urchin into its menu, allowing diners to restore
me around the club’s handsome mahogany boathouse, the ecosystem while they feast.
IMAGES: AWL IMAGES (TOP); ALANNA HALE

which sits at the head of the jetty. Many of the Dolphin Club’s members have been
Originally a men’s-only fraternity, in more recent swimming in the bay for decades — some for 60 years, she
decades it has evolved into the Dolphin Club — one of only says. “All the research will tell you that the people who
two remaining swimming clubs in the city. Women now are happiest are the ones who are physically active and
make up almost 40% of the 2,000-strong members, who have community,” Diane says, as a twentysomething man
range in age from 18 to 94 years old. And, while the club nearby performs star jumps to warm up at the seashore.
has working-class roots, today it represents a diverse cross I spot Quinn Fitzgerald strolling along the pier towards
section of San Franciscans — there are young tech bros us, wearing salmon-pink trunks and sipping a takeout
and ageing hippies sharing the sea with an ever-changing coffee. I’ve never swum anywhere more taxing than a
roster of in-the-know visitors, who are admitted three heated pool, so Quinn has offered to buddy up for my
times per week. cold-water swimming debut — or be my “Bay-doula” as he

68 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
The Golden Gate Bridge dominates
the San Francisco skyline
Below from left: Surfboards at the
Dolphin Club; long-time Dolphin
Club member Diane Walton
Previous pages: One of Santa
Barbara’s many beaches

J U L /AU G 2 0 24 69
Clockwise from top left:
Point Arena Lighthouse
in Mendocino County;
one of the lifeguard
towers on Huntington
Beach; a surfer testing
his mettle on the waves
at Palm Springs Surf Club

prefers. “You’ll have a transformational experience,” he

promises with a knowing smile as we pad across the chilly
sands in our swimwear. I’m still feeling undecided — we’re
diving in without wetsuits, which Quinn feels detract from
the authentic experience.
As the water rises past my waist, it feels as if the air
is being snatched from my lungs. Perhaps noticing my
expression, Quinn starts running through the history of
the city’s swimming clubs as a distraction. He tells me
they started life during the Gold Rush era, when ordinary
civilians would greet passenger ships docking from
Europe, dashing across the water to be the first to help the
VIPs to shore on the promise of a hefty tip. Behind me,
I can hear the cable-cars dropping tourists off at nearby
Hyde Street Pier.
Then, all at once, it hits me like a wave. Having
submerged my shoulders and paddled a leisurely loop, I
start to understand the magnetism of this water, which
is clear enough that I can see the sandy ocean bed
shimmering below. A light-headedness is beginning to
creep in, then a clearing of the mind, followed by a rush of
euphoria. I get it, I tell Quinn excitedly.
He grins. “Next, you should try swimming to Alcatraz,”
he says, filling me in on the 40-year-old New Year’s Day
tradition that sees a school of 99 hardy swimmers, from the
Dolphin Club and neighbouring South End Rowing Club,
racing from the notorious prison island back to shore in a
brisk 1.25-mile crossing.
“Alcatraz is probably the most iconic open-water swim
globally,” he says, lazily treading water in the direction of
the shore. “It really captures the imagination — the fact
that it was a prison and that escaping from it has long been
mythologised.” Back on land, our hero’s welcome is the
Dolphin Club’s inviting sauna.
Inside the cosy pinewood den, the benches are lined
with swimmers of all ages, who are studiously mapping
out various seafaring routes and discussing the tidal
tables. Steam rises from our thawing skin and a sense of
easy camaraderie fills the tiny room. A couple of the old-
timers even crack open beers.
This morning, each of us had stripped down and
— against our intuition — plunged into San Francisco Bay
and emerged feeling completely invigorated. As Quinn
puts it, “anyone who experiences the waters of this bay
always leaves a better person”.

H OW T O D O I T: The Dolphin Club is open to non-members on

Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays from 9am-6pm. Entry is $10 (£8).
America As You Like It has a four-night city break to San Francisco
from £859 per person, including flights from Heathrow and B&B
accommodation. dolphinclub.org americaasyoulikeit.com

70 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
 CALIFORNIA

q&a

Kyla Langen
of Queer Surf
Former pro surfer Kyla
Langen is the co-founder
of Queer Surf, a group that
aims to make the ocean more
accessible to the California
LGBTQ+ community

What’s special about Cali?

We’ve got it all! There
are urban and remote
beaches, frigid and warmer
waters. And while it has its
quintessential surf culture,
there are lots of affinity
groups building communities
for the underrepresented.
of the b
ee es Mendocino
t hr t This enchanting, windswept coast, around What barriers exist?
three hours north of San Francisco, is best The industry is steeped in
californian suited to surfers wanting to get off the beaten heteronormative culture,
track. Pop the Beach Boys on the stereo as you with advertising continuing
surf spots approach from Highway 1, cruising past tiny to highlight, for example,
coastal towns where flapping wetsuits hang white femmes posing in
out to dry on roadside railings. You can rent bikinis and men shredding.
Surfing here isn’t just a sport, it’s your gear at Lost Surf Shack in Fort Bragg, Others, based on their race,
a way of life, with everything from a shoreline city known for its ethereal Glass gender or sexuality, may not
easy waves up to challenging breaks Beach, which overflows with twinkling stones. always feel like they belong.
Seasoned surfers can then brave Point Arena, a
challenging underwater reef with a head-high How has the scene changed?
Huntington Beach swell, while novices can dip their toes in at The pandemic brought an
There’s a good reason why Huntington Beach, Caspar State Beach. influx of new surfers; the shift
tucked between LA and San Diego, was to working from home also
officially crowned Surf City USA. Home to one Palm Springs offered flexibility for new
of the most celebrated beaches on the stretch, Palm Springs, just north of San Diego, may be a hobbies. Line-ups are slowly
it offers the quintessential SoCal experience, two-hour drive inland from the Pacific, but that becoming more diverse,
with an ever-present shoal of surfers bobbing hasn’t stopped this desert outpost from getting partly because of this and
in the sea, against a backdrop of free-spirited in on the action. In a city more commonly the surf affinity groups
cafes and RV camps catering to the laid-back, associated with Tinseltown celebrities and paddling out together.
rubber-suited crowd. This 8.5-mile stretch is mid-century modern architecture, the recently
a magnet for both first-time and experienced opened Palm Springs Surf Club has caused What’s your favourite
surfers, drawn by its rich heritage as one of quite a splash. Set against the backdrop of the alternative spot?
IMAGES: GETTY; RIDGE BENBEN

the original surf hotspots of the 1950s, and rugged San Jacinto Mountains, the reimagined Clothing-optional Trail 6,
consistently near-perfect breaks. It’s a fail-safe water park now has a pool with customisable backed by cliffs at the San
year-round destination, but gets very busy waves. Newbies should opt for the gentle Onofre State Beach south
during the summer, so head north of the pier ‘Waikiki’, while the ‘A-Frame’ surge is powerful of LA. Its expansive break
if you want to unfurl your towel in peace. enough to keep surf pros on their toes. When allows for multiple surfers.
Boards and wetsuits can be rented locally you’re done shredding, hang loose in the shade queersurf.org ZG
at places such as Zack’s on the soft sands. of a poolside cabana with a fresh poke bowl.
zacksbythebeach.com palmspringssurfclub.com ZG

J U L /AU G 2 0 24 71
 a d trippin
ro g

six days on the

pacific coast highway
One of the world’s great coastal drives, this cliff-clinging route offers big Pacific
views, laid-back surf towns, soaring redwoods and heaps of old-school glamour

This is one of those occasions where it really is Further south, your next stop is Monterey, restaurant openings. You’ll need to book
worth taking the scenic route. Weaving for 656 home to colourful fishing boats and Cannery ahead for Chez Noir, a European-inspired
miles in a series of adrenaline-rushing curves Row, a former sardine-packing hub where restaurant that draws heavily on the bounties
on State Route 1, the Pacific Coast Highway repurposed warehouses brim with indie shops. of the coast. The chef owners live upstairs
links seaside towns with sandstone cliffs on Don’t miss: Tasting the abalone at nearby and eating here feels like having dinner at a
one side, crashing Pacific waves on the other restaurant Aubergine, which sources the sea friend’s house — if your friend has a Michelin
and limitless sky overhead. San Francisco snails from Monterey’s Municipal Wharf 2. star. cheznoircarmel.com
to Santa Monica is the blockbuster stretch, auberginecarmel.com Don’t miss: Another stellar restaurant,
packing in palm-fringed beaches, kitsch Stationæry, serving everything from lobster
attractions and architectural icons. DAY T WO : C A R M E L- BY-T H E - S E A rolls to sausage bánh mì. thestationaery.com
Four miles south of Monterey, the seaside town
DAY O N E : M O N T E R E Y of Carmel-by-the-Sea has long flaunted its DAY T H R E E : B I G S U R
With the Golden Gate Bridge in your rear-view quirky side: Clint Eastwood is a former mayor; Just south of Carmel, the landscape switches to
mirror, drive 60 miles south to Pigeon Point there are no street addresses; and a permit is cloud-grazing bluffs blanketed in oaks. You’re
Lighthouse, five miles before Pescadero. The required to wear high heels. entering Carmel Highlands, the gateway to Big
tallest lighthouse on the coast, it provides a Over recent years, a new crowd has Sur. Considered one of the most scenic drives in
great perch from which to watch snoozing seals. been drawn here, thanks to a fresh crop of the world, the 90-mile stretch of Route 1, which

72 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
 CALIFORNIA

From left: The Pacific Coast Highway

ends in San Simeon, unfurls between two sheer DAY F I V E : S A N TA B A R B A R A
links the sheer cliffs of Big Sur to the
rock faces — one going straight up, the other Palm-fringed beach towns and campervans Bixby Bridge; Venice Beach, a few miles
plunging down. It’s not for the fainthearted, but dot the coast between San Simeon and Santa south of Santa Monica in LA County
worth it for the Pacific views. Barbara. Pause at Pismo Beach, a hotspot for
Along the way you’ll cross the Bixby Bridge, humpbacks from December to April.
soaring 260ft above the sea. Stop at the Arriving into Santa Barbara, it’s impossible
turnouts for photos, before detouring to Julia not to be seduced by its coastal promenade lined
Pfeiffer Burns State Park for redwoods. with swaying palms and neat rows of white
Don’t miss: The ocean views from Nepenthe, stucco homes (there’s a reason this is known as
an architectural-landmark restaurant the ‘American Riviera’). But it’s not all pristine
Elizabeth Taylor was a fan of. nepenthe.com lawns — the Funk Zone district’s former fishing
outhouses have been turned into galleries,
DAY F O U R : S A N S I M E O N microbreweries and surf shops, and nearby you
The rolling hills of grapevines flashing by can pick up the urban wine trail. funkzone.net
the window are your cue that you’ve entered Don’t miss: Visiting fortune teller Madame
wine country. Schedule a pit stop at one of the Rosinka at Stearns Wharf, the oldest working
leafy estates to taste the spoils — Baileyana wharf in California. stearnswharf.org
is a good choice, with a tasting room housed
inside a former schoolhouse. baileyana.com DAY S I X : S A N TA M O N I C A
The big-ticket attraction here is Hearst Finish in Santa Monica, the seaside hub that
Castle, publishing tycoon and art collector brings all the fun of the fair. Jump on the rides
William Randolph Hearst’s more-is-more at Pacific Park, on the Santa Monica Pier, and
mansion, based on the design of a Spanish watch the bodybuilders at the nearby Original
cathedral. Book a place on the house tour to Muscle Beach, which originated during the
gawp at the OTT interiors — all neoclassical Great Depression as a place for wrestlers,
statues and medieval-inspired banquet halls. acrobats and stunt performers to workshop their
hearstcastle.org acts. pacpark.com
numbers
Don’t miss: Peering through binoculars at the Don’t miss: A film at the Aero Theatre, an art in
inhabitants of the Piedras Blancas Elephant deco beauty that’s been going since the 1940s.
Seal Rookery in San Simeon. elephantseal.org americancinematheque.com ZG
pacific coast
highway

1964
The year State Route 1 was
officially designated

5,000lb
The average weight of a
male elephant seal at
Piedras Blancas Elephant
Seal Rookery

45,000
The number of sacks of
cement used on Bixby Bridge
IMAGES: GETTY (LEFT AND IN COLUMN); YASARA GUNAWARDENA

656 miles
The total length of State
Route 1 in California

$4.3m (£3.4m)
The average house price in
Malibu in LA County

2 inches
The maximum heel height
allowed in Carmel-by-the-
Sea without a permit

J U L /AU G 2 0 24 73
 Music venue 924 Gilman Street.
Clockwise from below: a shopper at
Rasputin; Raleigh’s Pub on Telegraph
Avenue; Amoeba Music record shop

74 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
 CALIFORNIA

music

the birthplace of
californian punk
In among Berkeley’s galleries, boutique stores and hallowed university halls,
a musical revolution took flight. Words: Richard Franks. Photographs: Alanna Hale

Berkeley, best known for its genteel university campus, disused warehouse in rough-and-ready West Berkeley,
was perhaps not the most obvious place for a punk rock now a neighbourhood of craft brewers, artisan bakers and
revolution. The coastal city, just across the bay from San boutique retailers. 924 Gilman Street opened in 1986 as a
Francisco, has in fact long held a rebellious spirit, perhaps nonprofit community venue, with an all-ages, no-alcohol
most notably along central Telegraph Avenue in the 1960s and no-racism ethos that still stands today.
and ’70s — back then, it was a bohemian boulevard of Now, 924 Gilman is still the kind of gritty, graffiti-filled
hippies, free-speech activists and anti-war protesters. It room where new bands thrive. Worn sofas and an indoor
was here, among the galleries, theatres and boutiques, that basketball hoop flank the bar, and anyone can get free
the spirit of punk emerged. entry in return for some volunteering — working the door,
Today, the 4.5-mile avenue runs like an artery of punk perhaps, or sweeping up. It remains the only venue of its
music. From the University of California’s Berkeley campus kind left in California — a place with no owner, where
(UC Berkeley) all the way to the city of Oakland to the takings are split evenly between bands and young children
south, you can find old-school music shops like Rasputin can watch their older siblings perform.
sitting alongside thrift stores, burger joints and the Bay The band Green Day, which formed in Berkeley, cut their
Area’s largest independent vinyl emporiums. teeth at 924 Gilman Street — back then, they were called
Punk is, at its core, anti-establishment, and its influence ‘Sweet Children’, and you can find some of their original
first grew in reaction to sociopolitical issues such as graffiti on a beam above the stage. Such is the renown of
racism, segregation and gender identity. In 1964, UC the venue, fledgling bands from all over the world still
Berkeley students were at the forefront of the radical free- request shows here on tours, sometimes even swerving San
speech movement, protesting in response to university Francisco in favour of it.
administrators banning on-campus political activity. It Beyond 924 Gilman, the punk music scene in Berkeley is
remains one of the biggest anti-establishment protests in thriving. UC Theatre, an all-ages nonprofit, is a key venue
history, putting the city at the heart of the punk revolution. with room for 1,400, and the city’s oldest theatre (founded
By the late ’70s, punk pioneers Iggy Pop and the Ramones in 1917). Acts like Green Day, Pussy Riot and Descendents
were gigging in venues such as the Mabuhay Gardens, a have passed through here in recent years, transforming the
San Francisco nightclub. But punk music fans across the genteel auditorium into a raucous mosh pit. And, with its
Bay Area soon bemoaned the lack of local opportunities. youth education programme — training teens in the art of
In the mid-’80s, a punk-metal crossover finally took place promotion and sound engineering — it’s safe to say that the
at Berkeley venue Ruthie’s Inn, and from here regular future of Berkeley’s punk spirit is in good hands.
performances led Bay Area bands such as Metallica and
Slayer to become the thrash behemoths they are today. H OW T O D O I T: Doubles at the historic Hotel Shattuck Plaza in
Ruthie’s Inn closed in the late ’80s, paving the way for Berkeley from $167 (£134), room only. hotelshattuckplaza.com
an altogether different kind of venue that surfaced in a visitberkeley.com

J U L /AU G 2 0 24 75
 CALIFORNIA

Aerial view of Lake Merritt,

Oakland, California
Below: Saxophone player
in Balboa Park, San Diego

ee more
thr

music cities
Music icons such as Snoop Dogg, Blink
182 and Tupac Shakur have all called
the Californian coast home — its cities
are where they got their big breaks

Oakland
Berkeley’s punk scene can trace its origins to
neighbouring Oakland, the San Franciso Bay
Area city where influential post-metal bands
like Neurosis spawned in the late ’80s. Punks
would squat in warehouses, which inspired
tracks like Green Day’s Welcome to Paradise,
about a teen leaving home to live in a slum.
Today, venues like The Starry Plough and
7th West are still pulling in the punk crowds,
while genres like reggae and jazz can be heard
at The New Parish. thestarryplough.com
7thwest.com thenewparish.com

San Diego
The scene in San Diego is influenced by its
punks, skaters and surfers — just ask local
band Blink 182 — but in truth this is a diverse
musical city. The city thrives in the warmer
months — outdoor jazz festivals like Gator by
the Bay, in May, and the San Diego Symphony’s
months-long Summer Season, are just two of
the versatile events that keep this city on the
Californian music map. gatorbythebay.com
sandiegosymphony.org

Long Beach
The West Coast rap explosion of the ’90s
spread fast, led by icons such as Tupac Shakur,
a New Yorker who embraced Oakland as his
adoptive hometown. But it was Snoop Dogg
— hailing from the oceanfront city of Long
Beach — who flew the flag for Los Angeles
County, along with Compton-based NWA
alumni Dr Dre and Ice Cube. Long Beach’s
rap spirit is perhaps best enjoyed today
IMAGES: GETTY; ALAMY

through the annual Cali Vibes festival,

which brings international artists to the
city in February, while smaller venues like
Seabird Jazz Lounge and DiPiazza’s also
host regular jazz and rock concerts.
calivibesfest.com R F

J U L /AU G 2 0 24 77
CALIFORNIA

wildlife

the north
american galápagos
Off the coast of southern California, the Channel Islands National Park archipelago
harbours plants and animals that are found nowhere else on Earth. Words: Zoey Goto

“To your left, a whale!” the boat captain announces. I rush As we reach the top of a windswept cliff on the Cherry
out onto the deck, where I rock in time with the waves, Canyon Trail, a 3.5-mile pathway on the eastern edge of the
holding my breath and scanning the horizon. Nearby, island lined with Dr Seuss-like giant coreopsis bushes, he
a pod of dolphins leaps in unison, like a well-rehearsed tells me about one of the island’s greatest success stories.
circus troupe milking a round of applause. Numbers of island fox — an endemic species smaller
I’m on my way to Channel Islands National Park, and than its mainland cousins — had dwindled to just 14 on
before I’ve even arrived, I’ve seen wildlife in spades. Santa Rosa by the early 2000s, preyed on by bald eagles
Five of the eight Channel Islands are under national that had initially been drawn in by the feral pigs. Following
park protection — Anacapa, Santa Cruz, Santa Rosa, San a breeding programme, an estimated 2,665 of them now
Miguel and Santa Barbara. Accessed by boat from the call the island home. Their uniqueness lends a certain
city of Ventura, 70 miles north west of Los Angeles, they celebrity status. Soon I spot one of the playful creatures
form an emerald necklace of wave-lashed peaks and one stepping out in the midday sunshine.
of California’s best-kept secrets. The islands have been The fox may be the star of the show here, but it’s just
nicknamed the ‘Galápagos of North America’ — much of one of 150 endemic plant and animal species on the
the flora and fauna here are found nowhere else. archipelago, thanks to the islands’ isolation. As Reuven
The park attracts just shy of 330,000 people annually and I descend back through the scrub, I glimpse the
— compared to Yellowstone, which draws 4.5 million. sapphire-blue feathers of the island scrub-jay, particular to
Even many of the locals who live within sight of the rugged the park alongside the island spotted skunk and others.
peaks have yet to visit. It does demand extra legwork: The next morning, via a stop back on the mainland due
there’s the ferry crossing that can be cancelled at short to the quirks of the ferry timetable, I step onto the pebbly
notice; having to pack and carry your own supplies; and the shoreline of Santa Cruz, the largest island. Chuck Graham
lack of facilities. But for many, this is part of the appeal. greets me from behind mirrored sunglasses. A guide with
I’m taking the three-hour ferry crossing to Santa Rosa, the Channel Islands Adventure company for 23 years now,
the second-largest island, 30 miles from the mainland, Chuck takes the lead as we climb into kayaks and glide out
with its lattice of hiking trails fringed by white sand. into the turquoise sea. “The beauty of kayaking around
As Ventura recedes into the distance, and the dolphins and the island is getting to see the nooks and crannies that you
whales continue to swim into view, California starts to feel can’t access on foot,” he shouts as we weave in and out of an
like a different world. I find Santa Rosa’s undulating hills echoey network of sea caves. In one, we find a seal keeping
blanketed in sage scrub. The ferry anchor splashes into the a watchful eye over her fluffy pup. “You never know what
water beside a creaking pier, where Reuven Bank awaits. you’ll see out here,” Chuck calls back as we loop past
The park ranger is dressed in a crisp khaki uniform, a radio crags squawking with nesting California brown pelicans,
IMAGES: GETTY; JENNIFER CHONG (BOTTOM RIGHT)

clipped to his chest beneath his mop of brown curls. plunging our paddles deep into the tangle of kelp forest.
The plan is to explore the island on foot, and as we hike Back on Santa Cruz’s beach, I stretch out to dry off in
we pass a white schoolhouse and faded red barns. They’re the salty breeze and catch sight of the Tetris block-like
relics of a cattle-ranching era that ended as recently as 1998, silhouettes of the mainland, poking up in the distance
Reuven explains. The island’s delicate ecosystem had been over the white crests of the waves — the boundary of
knocked off kilter, first with the introduction of non-native civilisation. Out here, among the ocean peaks, it’s hard to
species — including a posse of pigs that escaped — and then believe that a ferry has transported me so very far away.
pesticides, used to keep the beaches free of mosquitos. The
archipelago has since become California’s conservation H OW T O D O I T: America As You Like It has a seven-night fly-drive
comeback kid, thanks to the efforts of scientists, rangers from £1,320 per person, including flights and a Channel Islands
and the local community in restoring the ecosystem. day trip. Island Packers ferries from $66 (£54). A kayak expedition
“Across the islands we’re removing non-native species such with Channel Islands Adventure Company costs from $205 (£165).
as fennel, which spreads wildly,” Reuven explains. americaasyoulikeit.com islandpackers.com islandkayaking.com

78 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
Inspiration Point on Anacapa,
one of the Channel Islands
Below from left: The island fox
is endemic to the archipelago;
hiking the Cherry Canyon Trail
on Santa Rosa Island
 CALIFORNIA

u r of the bes The Victorian Mansion, Los Alamos

fo t On the outside, this turreted inn in Santa
Barbara wine country looks like a traditional
retro motels for B&B. But behind its mellow yellow exterior
lies a secret kitsch interior. Six themed suites
california kitsch mean travellers can choose between drifting
off in a Cadillac, a Roman chariot or a four-
poster beside a life-size Egyptian sarcophagus.
The state is a gold mine for fans of over-the-top flair Over 200 craftspeople spent almost a decade
— from gilded chandeliers to Old West-themed rooms creating this work of art.
More info: From $245 (£194), B&B. thevick.com

Madonna Inn, San Luis Obispo Calistoga Motor Lodge & Spa, Napa Valley
This larger-than-life motel ticks all the boxes: themed rooms housing This nostalgic Napa hideaway looks set to
treasured relics of Americana; a colour palette dominated by Barbie revive the retro motor lodge for a new cohort
pink; floral shagpile; Disney-esque turrets; fuchsia tennis courts; and of road-trippers. Originally built in the Wine
gold chandeliers. Sitting at the midway point between San Francisco Country in the 1940s, the roadside retreat has
and LA, a short drive from downtown San Luis Obispo and its been updated with nature-inspired interiors,
surrounding wineries, it has attained cult status for its design since it three geothermal pools fed by hot springs
opened in 1958, courtesy of owners Phyllis and Alex Madonna. and a spa where guests can enjoy mud baths.
With seemingly more stage sets than a Hollywood backlot, this More info: From $248 (£196).
maximalist motel has 110 themed rooms in all, no two of which are calistogamotorlodgeandspa.com
alike. The Yahoo Room has a bed atop a wagon; the Caveman Room
is swathed in rock with decorative clubs; and the Matterhorn Room The Astro, Santa Rosa
features a vintage cow bell and the Swiss Alps rendered in stained glass. A relic of the Atomic Age, the Astro was once
Come nightfall, rum punch cocktails garnished with glossy red cherries part of a chain of space-themed hotels. Having
slide across the bar towards elderly regulars, many of whom have stayed eventually fallen from grace to a rent-by-the-
IMAGES: ZOEY GOTO

in every room over the years, and the crop of young newcomers who hour low, it rose from the ashes in spectacular
have discovered the charms of the motel online. Don’t miss the adjacent Above from left: The fashion in 2018. Interiors again nod to the
steakhouse, where filet mignon and lobster tails can be enjoyed in a Madonna Inn’s sign on 1950s, with white leather banquettes, record
circular pink booth, under the watchful eye of gilded cherubs. US Route 101; its kitschy players and signs for defunct soft drinks.
More info: From $200 (£159) per night. madonnainn.com ZG steakhouse dining room More info: From $155 (£123), B&B. theastro.com

J U L /AU G 2 0 24 81
82 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
 CALIFORNIA

Clockwise from top left:

Kim Prince, owner of
Hotville Chicken; Venice
Beach; pork and chicken
tacos at La Isla Bonita;
customers queue beside
the vintage food truck
food

truckful
of tradition
Crisp tostadas, zingy shrimp ceviche, fiery Nashville hot chicken: the food
trucks of coastal Los Angeles reflect their owners’ storied heritages.
Words: Farida Zeynalova. Photographs: Yasara Gunawardena

“Venice reminds me of a beautiful island,” says Antonio The next day, I’m at Common Space Brewery in
Gonzalez, leaning against the bonnet as Mexican ranchera Hawthorne, nine miles south east of Venice. Nashville-
booms out of his truck’s radio. “Plus we’re close to the sea born Kim Prince and soul food connoisseur Greg Dulan
and we liked the song, so we called it La Isla Bonita.” are busy feeding customers fried chicken from their truck.
Antonio, along with his wife, Maria, opened his Mexican “Somebody in Hollywood once called me hot chicken
food truck business in 1987, the same year Madonna royalty, and I never forgot it,” says Kim in a thick Southern
released her single and shot the video here in Los Angeles. accent. “I go to bed thinking chicken. I wake up thinking
On this balmy afternoon, he has parked, as he does every chicken. Chicken is in my blood!”
day, on residential Rose Avenue, near Venice Beach. The truck’s magnum opus — Nashville hot chicken — is
Antonio’s truck is in good company in the City of Angels. a legacy of Kim’s great-great uncle, Thornton, who she tells
There are around 4,000 food trucks here, selling all sorts me introduced hot chicken to Nashville in the 1930s. In
of meals on wheels — tacos, kebabs, dumplings, fried 2013, Kim brought these flavours to LA with her Hotville
chicken, to name a few. But Mexican influences dominate Chicken business, opening the Dulanville food truck as a
the city’s food truck scene — unsurprising, given around joint venture with Greg six years later. Now, they park up
35% of the county’s population is of Mexican heritage. all over LA County. “If you’re going to try hot chicken, you
Antonio and Maria are both from Jalostotitlán, a small have to do it from the hands of a Prince,” Greg tells me.
town in the central Mexican state of Jalisco. Brenda, one of I’m being treated to a feast. There’s the Shaw Chicken
their eight children, is part of the team busy creating tacos Sandwich with a delicious, homemade spicy mayo spread,
and mariscos (seafood) dishes from their mobile kitchen. served alongside crunchy chicken tenders, seasoned
There’s a scattering of customers around the family’s French fries, vegan kaleslaw and BBQ baked beans.
white vintage Chevrolet truck: some are using car bonnets Southern-inspired side dishes like corn, collard greens,
as tables; one is slurping his shrimp cocktail, which is black-eyed peas and mac ‘n’ smokin’ cheese are a nod to
swimming in lime and tomato juice and topped with fresh Dulan’s on Crenshaw, Greg’s south LA soul food restaurant.
herbs, kerbside; while another is spilling mango shrimp In the 1970s, his father Adolf Dulan opened Southern-style
aguachile, made with raw shrimp in a marinade of lime, restaurants across LA, and he vowed to continue his legacy.
avocado, chilli and onion, all down his crisp white T-shirt. Meanwhile, at the truck, Kim’s chicken comes in four
“I was polishing shoes in the streets of Mexico when progressively hotter heat levels: West Coast Plain, Cali
I was eight,” Antonio tells me. Then, in 1977, aged 16, he Mild, Music City Medium, and the reason why I’m here,
followed his older brother to Los Angeles, who, “as any Nashville Hot. I ask to try the latter, but Greg interjects:
other immigrant, moved here for a better life.” “we gon’ need to have 911 on standby for that”. Soon, Kim
When Antonio opened La Isla Bonita his main goal brings out two fried thighs dripping in fiery red oil. To
was to run a taqueria that pays homage to his roots. The create the spice blend, she uses five types of dried peppers:
extensive menu includes tacos made with carne asada cayenne, scorpion, ghost and Carolina reaper (the hottest
(grilled beef), shrimp and scallops, and chicharrón (pork in the world), plus one more that remains a secret, she says.
crackling); as well as burritos, quesadillas, tostadas (crispy I bite into it. In seconds the heat moves from my taste
fried tortilla) and tortas (sandwiches using fresh bread). buds and into my bottom lip, which pulsates with what
The ceviche, whether it’s tuna, scallop or shrimp, is a feels like the fire of a thousand suns. But I can’t help but go
customer favourite. And everything is dressed with pickles, back for more: it’s crispy and dangerously moreish. “Now
fresh salads and homemade salsas and sauces. you’ve been crowned,” says Kim, the hot chicken royalty.
Brenda hands me a shrimp ceviche tostada, which I’m And what a coronation this is, I think, taking one last bite.
told to eat before the juices seep through and it becomes
soggy. I can’t get enough. It’s at once crispy, tart and H OW T O D O I T: Stay at the beachfront Venice V Hotel in Los
packed with herbs — a glowing testament to the skill inside Angeles, which offers sea-view doubles from $285 (£224), room only.
this humble white truck, which has stood the test of time. venicevhotel.com

J U L /AU G 2 0 24 83
 Laguna’s Hidden Gem
33.5135O N, 117.7481O W

The sun peeks over the verdant canyon walls and awakens this South Laguna Beach hidden gem, quietly tucked
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where guests can disconnect from the frenetic energy of everyday life.

31106 COAST HWY. STAY PLAY SPA DINE

WWW.RANCHLB.COM EXPLORE PRIVATE EVENTS
 CALIFORNIA

A surfer at Ocean Beach, San Diego

Left: The sea lions of La Jolla Cove

y break
cit

a perfect day in san diego

Get a taste of what this beachside city has to offer by hopping between its
sun-washed neighbourhoods, from hippy hangout Ocean Beach to arty Barrio Logan

9A M : P I C K U P A C O F F E E I N B A L B OA PA R K courtyard, a few blocks south of Bread & Salt, key boutiques. Surfers flock to the waves of
Hilltop Balboa Park is just north of downtown to feast on pillowy ravioli stuffed with braised Newport Avenue Beach, where locals practice
San Diego and the perfect place to get your beef. cicciasandiego.com yoga on the sands. At dusk, make for Sunset
bearings. It’s home to 16 museums and other Cliffs Boulevard and follow the clifftop trail for
cultural institutions. Spend the morning 2 P M : V I S I T A V I N TAG E F U N FA I R some of the best golden horizon views.
walking some of the 65 miles of trails with a Once you’ve digested your meal, catch a taxi
hot lavender chai in hand from Daniel’s Coffee over to Belmont Park, a retro amusement 8 P M : D I G I N TO G O U R M E T TAC O S
cart. balboapark.org danielscoffeeonline.com park that’s a beloved local landmark. Take in Dive into the world of Mexican wrestling at the
the sweeping views of the sea from the Giant Lucha Libre restaurant in Mission Hills, part
1 1 A M : E X P LO R E B A R R I O L O G A N Dipper roller coaster, and pick up a fuchsia of a gourmet taco company that has two more
Barrio Logan, a neighbourhood of warehouses cloud of candyfloss at this park opened by a outlets in the city. All feature kitschy interiors:
turned into galleries, taco joints and craft sugar magnate back in 1925. belmontpark.com think Pepto-Bismol pink walls and portraits of
breweries, has deep Mexican and Chicano masked wrestlers in gilded frames. Blackened
roots. This is reflected in the 80 murals 4 P M : S P OT W I L D L I F E AT L A J O L L A C OV E mahi burritos are sold alongside colourful
splashed across the artsy district, depicting Head further up the coast to La Jolla Cove, máscaras (masks), for diners who really want
Aztec goddesses next to Frida Kahlo. Stroll the a protected beach that’s home to rowdy sea to get into character. luchalibretacoshop.com
colourful streets and then swing by Bread & lions, often seen sunbathing in among the
Salt, a former bakery turned into a community craggy rocks. Beyond lies a series of sea caves 1 0 P M : S I P A C L A S S I C M A I TA I
arts hub. breadandsaltsandiego.com explorable by kayak; look for leopard sharks Cocktail bars are king in San Diego, but for
and dolphins along the way. lajollakayak.com a uniquely West Coast experience, round
1 2 P M : S TO P F O R PA S TA your day off at tiki-themed False Idol. This
IMAGES: GETTY

When Ciccia Osteria won a Michelin Bib 6 P M : WATC H T H E S U N S E T Polynesia-inspired hangout goes all out, with
Gourmand, it pinned the restaurant’s The coastal community of Ocean Beach is elaborate wood carvings, a rocky waterfall and
handcrafted pastas to San Diego’s culinary where San Diego lets loose its bohemian side, faux thunderstorms regularly illuminating the
map. Pull up a chair here in its tranquil with thrift shops, tattoo studios and low- speakeasy. falseidoltiki.com ZG

J U L /AU G 2 0 24 85
CALIFORNIA

200 miles Oregon

C A N A D A

PACIFIC UNITED STATES

C
COAST California OF
HIGHWAY
AMERICA

a
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Mendocino
MEXICO

i
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Berkeley Nevada
San Francisco

o
Santa Cruz
Monterey

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BIXBY BRIDGE n

Arizona
i
San Luis Obispo a
Santa Monica
CHANNEL ISLANDS
NATIONAL PARK Los Angeles

P A C I F I C
O C E A N San Diego
MEXICO

GETTING THERE & AROUND

British Airways, Virgin Atlantic,
United and American Airlines all fly
direct from the UK to California’s
gateway airports — Los Angeles,
San Diego and San Francisco.
ba.com virginatlantic.com
united.com aa.com
Average flight time: 11h.
Once on the ground, it’s worth
using public transport, for example
San Francisco’s underrated BART
system. Sweeps of LA are also
covered by Metro Rail, which is
easy to navigate with a prepaid TAP
card. The Amtrak Pacific Surfliner
train runs between San Diego and
A view of Downtown Los San Luis Obispo, stopping at LA,
Angeles from Elysian Park Ventura and Santa Barbara along
the way. A single journey between
San Diego and LA takes 2h45m
and costs from $35 (£28). bart.gov
taptogo.net amtrak.com
q&a In the cities, Ubers are plentiful and
a good way to avoid parking.
travel essentials
WHEN TO GO
March to May is a perfect time to
How long would it take to drive the length Can I rent a classic car? Nothing says you’ve visit, with blue skies, wildflowers
of California? Technically, under ideal driving arrived in La La Land quite like cruising down and temperatures in the 20Cs.
conditions, you could get from north to south Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills, the wind in your September to November is also
across the state in around 13 hours. However, hair as you lower the soft top of a sporty ideal, with plenty of sunshine,
traffic, particularly around LA, San Francisco and vintage Corvette. It’s now easier than ever autumnal foliage, grape harvests
the Pacific Coast Highway, usually puts paid to to rent a classic car directly from its owner, and celebrations such as Monterey
this, and most travellers schedule a couple of with websites such as Turo and Vinty listing Jazz Festival (27–29 September)
weeks to properly enjoy the journey. hundreds of retro vehicles available to hire — although rainfall is higher. June to
from many of California’s biggest cities. Hertz August is busiest, and the state also
Can you drive in California with a UK licence? also has a collection of muscle car rentals, which experiences extreme weather, with
You don’t need an international driving permit are two-door, American-made sports cars with rolling fog on the coast and hotter
(IDP), so long as your UK licence covers the type powerful engines. temperatures up to around 42C.
of vehicle you’re planning to drive (car, truck,
motorcycle) and you’re at least 18 years old. How can I save money? There’s no escaping it: MORE INFO
IMAGE: GETTY. ILLUSTRATION: JOHN PLUMER

California is arguably one of the United States’ visitcalifornia.com

Are there any rules of the road to be aware of? most expensive destinations to visit. But if your
Always drive on the right and overtake on the budget is stretched, there are ways to save a HOW TO DO IT
left. Right turns on a red light are allowed in few dollars along the way. Travelling off season, Purely California has a tailormade
California if you stop first, the road is clear and hiring an RV and using campsites, and planning 10-night coastal California itinerary,
there are no signs prohibiting it. As a general museum visits to coincide with their monthly travelling from San Francisco to
rule of thumb, the speed limit in a residential free entry days will all help to lower costs. San Diego, from £2,499 per person,
or business district is 25mph, while on a two- Don’t forget to factor in tipping — around 20% including flights and car hire.
lane, undivided highway it’s 55mph, and on an when dining out, a dollar or two per drink for purelycalifornia.co.uk
interstate or highway road the top speed is bartenders and between 15–20% for taxi drivers
between 65–70mph. is standard across California. ZG

86 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
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 Tales of the
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I N TH E FAR N O RTH O F TH E U N ITED A R A B E MI R ATE S ,
R A S AL KHAIM AH I S E MERG I N G A S TH E NE W ADVENTU RE
C APITAL O F TH E G U LF. H E A D U P I N TO IT S MO U NTAI N S ,
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TO D I S COVER E XH I L AR ATI N G AC TIV ITI E S , U N I Q U E
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W O R D S : A N G E L A L O C AT E L L I . P H O T O G R A P H S : J O N AT H A N S T O K E S

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 U N I T E D A R A B E M I R AT E S

Clockwise from left: Hussain Darwish with his Harris’s

hawk, Logan; thorny bush growing from the rocks on
Jebel Jais, the highest point of the UAE, in the Hajar
Mountains; outdoor adventure guide Fadi Hachicho
serves freshly brewed tea at his Camp 1770
Previous pages, from left: Arabian oryx in the Al Wadi
Nature Reserve; sand dunes in the Al Wadi Desert

The mountains
“You froze time!” Fadi Hachicho is talking to a Harris’s hawk, but the
bird has its head in the clouds. Caught in an updraft, it’s hovering
on the wind high above us, still in the air, the sun playing on its
russet feathers. When it flies on, it’s only to luxuriate in the thermals
some more, circling in large, languid rings, flapping its wings only
occasionally. Which makes it all the more surprising when it suddenly
pivots, head to the scree below, and spirals twice before diving in one
clean swoop. Fadi bursts into a laugh, high-pitched and unrestrained.
“Now you’re just showing off.”
Native to Mexico, Harris’s hawks are not the raptors you’d expect to
see hunting in Ras Al Khaimah, the northernmost of the United Arab
Emirates’ seven territories. Falcons are more commonly associated
with the wider region; Bedouin trained these birds to source food as
a means of survival in the Arabian desert, a millennia-old practice
that, in its original form, has been inscribed by UNESCO as Intangible
Cultural Heritage. “I used to falcon before adopting Logan,” says
Hussain Darwish of the bird that’s following our group of three on the
high and lonely path, hop-flying from bush to boulder. He’s from Oman,
one of the countries where traditional falconry originated. “But falcons
will hunt and either return to camp or wait with the prey. Logan is
trained to hike with me — with us.”
I’m spending three days exploring the adventurous side of this little-
known emirate, and I’ve started on a high: guide Fadi and his friend
Hussain are taking me on an hour-long trek up Jebel Jais, the highest
point in the UAE at 6,345ft (1,934m). It’s part of the Hajar Mountains,
a rocky, barren range more often associated with neighbouring Oman.
It spills into the emirates at its western end, creating opportunities for
multi-stop ziplining, hike-and-fly paragliding and summit-bagging
— the list goes on. “No other place in the country has all this in one
spot,” says Fadi.
Originally from Beirut, he moved from Dubai to Ras Al Khaimah to
take advantage of its larger-than-life nature. We started our walk from
Camp 1770, which he now runs as part of his tour company, Adventurati
Outdoor. Set at 5,807ft in the Jebel Jais mountains, it’s the highest
campsite in the UAE, and on the trail leading out from it, views of the
Hajars unfurl in every direction. They first formed 70 million years ago
when tectonic plates collided, thrusting the seabed up in rippling crests
reminiscent of crashing waves. “Hajar means ‘rock’,” says Fadi. “These
are our Rocky Mountains, our Grand Canyon.”
For all its potential, Ras Al Khaimah is new to the adventure scene.
Five years ago, there were fewer than 10 miles of official hiking trails
in the Jebel Jais area. When Highlander — a series of long-distance
trekking events that’s been held in over 20 countries since 2017 — first
took place here three years ago, the network had to be especially

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Clockwise from right: The arrival platform of the ‘Jais

Flight’ — the world’s longest zipline at 1.75 miles; sunrise
on a cactus in the grounds of Bear Grylls Camp; guide
and mountaineer Fadi Hachicho stands at a stone marker
indicating the border between the UAE and Oman

extended for the race to even be feasible. “People came expecting

porters,” says Fadi, who also manages Highlander events in the
region, with an amused smile. But the emirate was quick to catch up
on lost time. Today, there are 58 miles of paths soon to be mapped and
signposted — and the number’s increasing.
In the same few years, the whole of Jebel Jais has been developed
into something of an adventure playground, much of it living up to the
superlatives the UAE prides itself on; this is, after all, the country with
the world’s highest buildings, its deepest swimming pool. In Jebel Jais,
there’s the world’s longest zip-line and the country’s highest restaurant,
which serves international dishes and plays western pop. Revving up
its single mountain road — 20 miles of perfect tarmac and wide hairpin
bends — are low-lying yellow sportscars and oversized purple SUVs.
Glamping and luxury lodges are in the works, set to cater to what the
emirate hopes will be an influx of thrill-seeking visitors.
But elsewhere, the vision is more subdued. On the drive up to Camp
1770, Fadi stopped at roadside viewpoints to show me distant farms
in the folds of the Hajars, the ancient homes of the emirate’s age-old
mountain tribes. They’re simple settlements, where houses are built
with stacked-up stones and buckwheat is grown on terraces the way
it’s been done here for thousands of years. Most remain only accessible
via walking trails. “We’re fixing some of them up to welcome hikers for
local snacks and beverages,” explained Fadi. “These tribespeople — the
way they talk, their handshake, their facial expressions — it’s all harsh
like these mountains, but they’re generous and welcoming.”
Harsh is a good adjective to describe this environment, I muse as I
walk on along the trail of scattered stones, hugging myself in my jacket
and massaging down the goosebumps. It’s early spring, the afternoon
edging towards sundown, and the temperature has fallen below 5C this
high up in the mountains — a dry chill that reaches the bones. But as
we hit the end of our uphill trek, a stone slab marking the border with
the Omani exclave of Musandam, I realise why Fadi chose to head out so
late in the day.
I turn to face the path we’ve taken to get up here. The sky’s still blue,
but the haze has turned the sea greige, so that the reflection of the low
sun is already a smudged orange; it’s a scene out of time. This, Fadi
tells me, is the only place in the country where you can see the sun rise
above the Indian Ocean and set in the Persian Gulf. “Even today, there
are people who’ve been in the UAE 20 years and don’t know this exists,”
he says. “But we have what makes us unique. And the beauty about
these mountains is that they’re a blank page. We’re writing history.”

The desert
The question of writing — or in this case, rewriting — history comes up
again the next day, on a desert drive through Al Wadi Nature Reserve,
1,200 acres of protected dunes in Ras Al Khaimah’s Wadi Khadeja.
“That one was born yesterday,” whispers ranger-ambassador Sisira
Ranjan Panda from behind the wheel of our open-sided vehicle. Near
the path of old tyre treads is an Arabian oryx calf, curled up tight with
its head on its slight hind legs. Sleeping under a rimth, the local name
for an almost-leafless shrub, it’s the image of proverbial innocence.
“We’ve had 17 births so far this year. It’s a great number for us.”

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We’ve just left the Adventure Centre of the Ritz-Carlton Al Wadi,

a 40-minute drive south west of Jebel Jais and inside the gated reserve,
and already we’re face-to-muzzle with these Middle Eastern icons
— the national animal of the UAE, Jordan, Oman, Bahrain and Qatar.
They have ringed horns as high as they are tall, and white, almost
luminous coats to reflect the sun’s harsh rays, part of what’s made them
so well-adapted to life in these scorched lands. “But it makes it hard to
hide,” adds Sisira. “That’s one reason why they almost disappeared.”
The Arabian oryx historically ranged throughout the Arabian
Peninsula and beyond. Bedouin hunted it for its meat and hide, but the
popularisation of motorised vehicles and automatic weapons in the
region, coupled with the rise of trophy hunting, exacerbated threats to
its survival. By 1972, it was declared extinct in the wild, persisting only
in zoos and private parks. A rewilding process started a decade later,
making this the world’s first species to be successfully reintroduced
into its natural habitat.
Still, protected reserves remain most visitors’ best bet of spotting one
— or dozens. Al Wadi welcomed nine oryxes in 2011; today, there are 113
and counting. We’re here during mating season, which runs roughly
from October to May, and families are out in their herds. We spot a pair
of month-old siblings scampering behind their parents and a female
heavy with the weight of her taut abdomen. “It’ll give birth in less than
two days — ah,” Sisira halts mid-sentence, spine tensed, eyes shooting
up. “Do you hear that?”
The call of the Indian roller is a robotic chack, and when the small
bird flies out from the shrub where it has been resting, I wonder if it is in
fact a hologram. From its brown body, it lifts open oversized wings with
a plumage so vibrant it looks out of place: bands of bright turquoise and
electric blue, with shafts of indigo and grey-green tinges on the tips.
“It’s one of the most colourful birds in this desert,” says Sisira.
The entire desert is more colourful than I expected. The dunes, damp
from the day’s intermittent showers, are an earthy terracotta, covered
in grass that has sprouted in what’s been an unusually wet winter.
It’s the result of cloud seeding, locals have told me — the process of
releasing chemicals or, as is the case locally, salt particles into the air
to conjure rainfall. Countries from the UAE to the US use it to combat
water scarcity and other issues, but the jury’s still out on what its long-
term effects might be on the environment.
When I ask Sisira what he thinks of the green dunes, he shrugs in
a soft manner that’s hard to decipher. What’s clear is his love of the
reserve, which he picks apart on the rest of our safari with forensic
knowledge. He points out burrows, homes to pharaoh eagle-owls and
Arabian red foxes, and tracks Arabian darkling beetles and desert
running ants from pinprick prints in the sand. We listen to the warble
of the great grey shrike, then purse our lips to emulate the flat hoo-hoo-
ing of the Eurasian hoopoe.
We stop in a grove of ghaf, the UAE’s national tree, known as ‘camel
umbrellas’ for the shade they provide. As if to demonstrate, sand
gazelles — the reserve’s other resident antelope — are walking under
the canopy, finding respite from the sun that appears in and out of the
cloud cover. “They run, but not for long,” says Sisira. “What they can
do is sprint.” Right on cue, they all tense, reacting to a noise, danger or
instinct imperceptible to my human senses, before darting away and up
a mound, joining some oryxes.
On the drive back, Sisira tells me the Arabic word for oryxes is
Clockwise from left: A camel in the Al Wadi Desert; where
al maha, meaning ‘beautiful eyes’ — large and black, emphasised by the desert meets the sea — the Persian Gulf on the edge
a slit of darker fur that seems to cut through them to the jaws. When I of Ras Al Khaimah and the neighbouring emirate of Umm
close mine, the image of the herd on the crest of the dune, silhouetted Al Quwain; soft, undulating sand, on the side of a dune,
against the glare of the grey sky, replays long after we’ve left. exposed after a rain shower

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The coast
Ras Al Khaimah means ‘head of the tent’, a name that, depending
on your lore of choice, evokes its position at the northern end of the
country or the tale of a sheikh who kept a lantern on his tent as a
lighthouse for seafarers. Before oil took over in the 1950s, pearl-trading
was big business along the emirate’s 40 miles of coastline. Divers would
head out to sea on sailboats for months at a time, living in crews of
30 or more to scour the seafloor for oysters. The advent of cheap and
convenient cultured pearls in the early 1900s brought an end to this
industry, but its heritage is kept alive by Suwaidi Pearl Farm, the first
and only one in the Gulf. Set up in 2004 offshore from the village of
Al Rams by the grandson of a local pearl-diver, it offers tours guiding
visitors through the history of pearling in the region.
Part of this history is Al Jazeera Al Hamra, the only pearling village
in the Gulf to have survived the rush for urbanisation in the 20th
century. It was home to the Za’ab coastal tribe, who lived here for
some 400 years until the changing economy pushed them to seek
new fortunes in Abu Dhabi in the late 1960s. Abandoned for over four
decades, the village is now kept as an open-air museum.
“You sit here and you feel… you feel…” Mohammed Tarbosh trails
off as he pounds on his heart, his eyes searching the ancient courtyard
as if he’s going to find the words on its walls of sunbaked coral. Born
and raised in Ras Al Khaimah, he works for the Al Qasimi Foundation,
which supports the emirate’s social and cultural development, and he’s
here in traditional kandura robe and ghutrah headdress to show me
around. We walk up a watchtower and inside a mosque, past dusty souk
grounds and under the windcatcher towers of family homes, some left
in ruins, some rebuilt to their original flat-topped, sand-coloured look.
At the moment, it’s all a backdrop to Ras Al Khaimah Art, a yearly
festival that repopulates the ghost village with contemporary
installations. There are suspended wire sculptures twirling inside an
empty house and Daliesque paintings hung on the exposed bricks of
crumbling walls. “Nowadays, visitors to the UAE want to have a cultural
journey, too, not just visit malls and tall buildings,” says Muhammed.
“Eventually, the glamour will become an everyday thing. This is the
story of our fathers, our grandfathers. It’s important we know it.”
That’s not to say the emirate is immune to the blue-sky thinking
of Dubai or Abu Dhabi. A 10-minute drive south west, Al Hamra
Village is home to top-end hotels and a marina lined with yachts and
speedboats. Continue and you’ll reach Jazirah Aviation Club, which
offers sightseeing flights on Barbie-pink two-seaters, and man-made
Al Marjan Island, still under development but set to welcome a 1,000ft-
high resort with 1,500 rooms, 24 restaurants and entertainment options
ranging from an on-site theatre to the UAE’s first casino.
Between old and new is Ras Al Khaimah city, the emirate’s main hub,
a sparse collection of mid-rise, mid-century buildings to the north east
of Al Jazeera Al Hamra. Its seafront splits into an inner-city creek home
to the emirate’s biggest concentration of mangroves, which are present

From top: Mohammad Tarbosh of the Al Qasimi Foundation guiding around the
Al Jazeera Al Hamra heritage village; an old dhow used at Suwaidi Pearl Farm

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10 miles
Musandam Peninsula
Ras Al Khaimah
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NATURE RESERVE

GETTING THERE AND AROUND

Emirates flies direct to Dubai from UK
hubs including Heathrow, Birmingham,
Manchester and Newcastle. From
there, it’s around an hour and a half’s
drive to Ras Al Khaimah along wide
highways. emirates.com
Average flight time: 7h.
Ras Al Khaimah is a compact emirate;
from Ras Al Khaimah city, it takes
around 20 minutes to drive to Jebel
Jais, Al Jazeera Al Hamra or the Ritz-
Carlton Al Wadi. Cars are the main
mode of transport to cover even small
distances. Rentals are available at
Dubai airport; taxis can also be booked
through the Careem app. careem.com

throughout the country, in total covering 60sq miles of Emirati coast. WHEN TO GO
The national government is investing in their conservation — as carbon Weather-wise, the best time to get
stores, coastal defences, natural sanctuaries and sources of income. active in the UAE is winter (December
At a time when mangrove forests around the world are being lost to to March), when the mercury hovers at
human activity and climate change, in the UAE they’re growing. a pleasant 20–25C. The Ras Al Khaimah
I explore the local thicket that evening, paddling by the water-level Art festival runs in February every
canopy with a kayak rented from a roadside stall, Al Ras Kayak. Flying year. Summers (late-May to August)
fish leap in front of my bow and I follow them inside a channel. I glide are sweltering, with highs of 45C and
slowly, careful not to disturb the wildlife I can’t see but whose song little respite even at night. No matter
has engulfed me entirely. It’s a soundscape I can’t untangle: there’s the season, temperatures in the Hajar
chirping, a shrill whistle, a croaking like the plucking of an out-of-tune Mountains are 10–15C cooler than
guitar — the chorus of the mangroves’ birds, including cormorants, around the coast and desert.
western reef herons and greater spotted eagles, which share these
waters with turtles, rays and reef sharks. I’m so engrossed, I don’t notice WHERE TO STAY
the path narrowing until the mangroves’ breathing roots scratch the Bear Grylls Explorers Camp, at the
side of my kayak. I take a last, lucky glance inside the foliage, spotting foot of Jebel Jais. Three-person self-
an Arabian collared kingfisher. catering cabins from AED325 (£70).
But it’s when I come out of the waterway that I find what I’ve come beargryllscamp.ae
looking for: a flamboyance of flamingos walking in the shallows, The Ritz-Carlton Ras Al Khaimah,
flicking their hooked beaks this way and that. The setting sun has Al Wadi Desert. From AED1,741 (£378),
warmed the sky and flushed their feathers a deep peach. I stop at a B&B. ritzcarlton.com
distance, bobbing in the calm water and taking in the scene. Then, Banan Beach, Ras Al Khaimah city. From
a bird at one end of the procession spreads its wings. It keeps them AED550 (£120), B&B. bananbeach.com
splayed, neck straight, legs poised, holding the pose like it’s holding a
breath — a prelude, I soon realise, to the show that’s about to play out. MORE INFO
When it takes off, the act is so deliberate it seems like a performance. visitrasalkhaimah.com
ILLUSTRATION: JOHN PLUMER

One after the other, the flamingos follow suit in a chain reaction of
Above: Paddling a kayak
fluttering and flapping. And, caught in their excitement, I join the flock HOW TO DO IT
around the mangrove
— them flying high above, me paddling swiftly below. I heave my kayak Kuoni has five nights at the Ritz Carlton
forest in a protected
with full force, following the straight arrow of their flight, stabbing creek at the centre of Ras Al Khaimah Al Wadi Desert, in
the water to their regimented wingbeats until I’m right under the Ras Al Khaimah city, an Al Rimal Pool Villa on a B&B basis,
leader. When I look up, it looks like it’s hovering. For the few heartbeats home to a large group including flights, from £2,849 per
I manage to keep up, time once again seems to come to a standstill. of flamingos person. kuoni.co.uk

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In Cape Verde, life feels at the mercy of the elements. But hikes on Santo Antão
island reveal the West African archipelago as a place where the people are
welcoming and days end in passionate song with glasses of warming rum

WORDS: SAR AH BA XTER. PHOTOGR APHS: JUSTIN FOULKES

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CAPE VERDE

On Santo Antão, silence can strike like a blow. One minute you can be
bouncing in the back of a growling pick-up, en route to hike the island’s
serrated hills, the next, you’ve been deposited at the foot of a cliff, the taxi
has faded from earshot and the world, and all its climatic fury, is muted.

Spend any time on Santo Antão — Cape Verde’s When the archipelago gained independence from
northwesternmost and most mountainous isle — and Portugal in 1975, it was a product of all these things,
you grow accustomed to a raucous soundtrack. Adrift in emerging with a unique Creole culture. Its people officially
the Atlantic, 350-odd nautical miles off the West African speak Portuguese, but colloquially Cape Verdean Kriolu.
coast, it’s part of a 10-island nation that is as rowdy as it is Life is still lived at the whim of the elements, while society
remote. There’s the thrashing of the ocean, all white fizz is moulded by the not fully translatable concepts of
and fury. The relentless northeast trade winds, rattling morabeza (warmth and openness) and sodade (longing, to
the sugarcane and banana palms. And then there’s the both leave and stay) — the latter felt by those driven to seek
music: melancholic morna, upbeat funaná; guitars in bars, work overseas despite loving their homeland. Today, more
melodies floating from farmhouses and car stereos. Cape Verdeans live abroad than in Cape Verde itself.
But in those rare moments when you’re sheltered from
the gusts, waves and radios, a deafening silence reveals Thirsty work
Cape Verde as it truly is: a place out on a limb, held captive I’m here for a week’s hiking in Santo Antão, but, given it has
by the ocean, a long way from anywhere at all. It’s a long no airport, I start my trip in Mindelo, on the neighbouring
way from popular perceptions, too. When most people island of São Vicente. The port town, built around a natural
think of Cape Verde, they likely picture the flat, blonde- harbour, was a key Atlantic stop-off for coal ships in the
blue shoreline of Sal to the east. Not Santo Antão, an island 19th century. A little forgotten now, its brightly painted
raw and warped, thrust up and cracked open, variously streets — royal blue, lemon-lime, candy pink — spill
stark and lush. It’s like a Madeira on steroids, or a tropical back from the crescent bay, backed by bare hills, and still
Clockwise from top: The
Iceland; a rock that seems newly birthed from the Earth’s have a pleasing bustle. There are joggers, dogs trotting,
port town of Mindelo,
mantle, still bearing every scar. fishermen descaling the day’s catch. At the market there built around a natural
Cape Verde has always been a hardscrabble place. The are piles of fruit and vegetables — and brief, high-pitched harbour on São Vicente
archipelago was, depending on your preference for geology pandemonium whenever a mouse bolts from one of them. island; woven baskets for
or legend, burped from volcanic hotspots or formed from the Murals add further colour. Cesária Évora, Cape Verde’s sale; street art depicting
crumbs God brushed off his fingers after Creation. When the most famous morna singer, born in Mindelo, looms over Cesária Évora, Cape
Portuguese came across the islands in 1458, they found them Praça Dom Luís, her image covering the side of the library. Verde’s most famous

uninhabited — and strategically located. Cape Verde became But there’s street art everywhere here — piano keys and singer, in Mindelo
Previous pages, from
a key hub for trading enslaved people, with thousands of musical notes climb up to the rooftops, faces smile from
left: The hike to the
unwilling souls bought and sold here each year. Gradually, shopfronts, sea creatures swim across rendered walls.
Bordeira do Norte on
the population grew, comprising descendants of both It’s a vibrant introduction. But, after a night in Mindelo,
Santo Antão involves
enslaved and free Africans, Jews fleeing persecution, and I’m up early the next morning to make the short ferry hop zigzagging up sheer
Portuguese and other European settlers. But it was no easy over to Santo Antão to start following the island’s less- slopes of volcanic rock;
life, with the land and its people mistreated over centuries by explored trails. The boat docks and a taxi takes me to the Mindelo is known for its
both colonial powers and Mother Nature. east coast settlement of Pombas, following a bleak road brightly painted streets

102 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
 CAPE VERDE

Clockwise from below:

Alcinda Fonceca, chef-
owner of a Pico de Antónia
cafe on Santo Antão; lantana
flowers grow across the
island; farmers work stone
terraces on the steep slopes

sawn through desiccated terrain. As soon as I start inland,

on a five-mile hike along the now dry Ribeira do Paúl, the
world erupts into technicolour. The valley is Cape Verde
at its greenest, overspilling with sugarcane and bananas,
manioc and yams, dragonflies and egrets. Nowhere is flat
by nature — it’s all angles, outcrops, rock ribs and ridges
— but somehow villages cling on.
The trail through the valley to the ridge-top hamlet of
Pico de Antónia is all up, but I enjoy the climb, following
a quiet road at first, which weaves from the ocean and up
into the hills. Soon, in the dry riverbed to the side, I pass a
man with muscles like an Ancient Greek hero, who’s sifting
pozzolana (volcanic ash) to be used for cement-making.
Another is busy cracking fresh almonds with a pick — he
hands me a tiny nut as I go by. Then, as I swap roads for
trails, I see farmers bent double on the edges of stone-walled
terraces, pulling up pungent spring onions. As I venture
deeper up the valley, it begins to resemble a living Machu
Picchu, with stepped fields rising higher and higher up the
hulking peaks.
As I’m looking up at all this, a lady skips easily down the
slope towards me. Red scarf wrapped around her head,
Jesus gazing out from the front of her T-shirt, she shouts
her name, Alcinda Fonceca, entreats me to stop at her cafe
when I reach it, then dashes off again. This dedication to
touting for business on steep mountain paths deserves
reward, I think. So when, 20 minutes later, I finally arrive
at Alcinda’s place — one of a handful of precipitous houses
that makes up Pico de Antónia — I order a coffee on her
veranda. From here, bony shoulders of land shrug upward,
while terraces cascade below. Alcinda motions across the
valley to point out the coffee bushes where the beans in my
brew came from.
My walk finishes at O Curral, a barn-cum-bar in the
village of Chã de João Vaz. Here, where most of what’s sold
comes from the owners’ fields. This includes homemade
juice, cheese and grogue (rum distilled from sugarcane).
The latter has been produced on the islands since the
Portuguese first arrived and is now Cape Verde’s national
drink. Most of the country’s grogue comes from Santo
Antão, with the best said to originate in the town of
Paúl. It’s only mid-afternoon but, with the sweet scent
of cut cane floating on the breeze, it seems rude not to
try one — especially at 150 escudos (£1.15) a slug. With
the mercury hovering around 26C all year, hiking in
Cape Verde is thirsty work — made all the harder by
strong and consistent wind and sun. I sip the clear liquid,
which is surprisingly smooth but strong as iron; my head
immediately swims.
That evening, in Ponta do Sol, I try it again. The old
town, sprawling on a peninsula at the island’s northern
tip, has a handful of bars dotted along its wide, cobbled

J U L /AU G 2 0 24 105
CAPE VERDE

streets; I’ve bagged a table at Cantinho da Música, to reach Santo Antão — although there are plans to open Clockwise from top:
where owner Jaqueline Santos opens her roof terrace a new airport west of Porto Novo in the hope of bringing Hikes on Santo Antão
to a lucky few. more tourists. pass houses that cling
I order a glass of xtomperod (grogue mixed with pontche, Today’s nine-mile hike is to the fishing village of to the cliffs; the route to
Cruzinha travels along
a honey liqueur) but there’s no food menu to choose from; Cruzinha, west along the coast. I start from Ponta do Sol’s
the coast; seafood is
only one dish is served at each sitting, and tonight it’s main square, with its yolk-yellow town hall, whitewashed
popular in Cape Verde,
grilled fish with fried cassava, rice and beans. This is church and waving palm trees, then begin to hike the steep
collected in traditional
accompanied by a man with a guitar playing soulfully in path out of town. The route snaking ahead is clear, solid fishing boats
the corner. He’s built like a bear (he’s the local sports coach, and substantial — wide enough for mules. Yet it seems an
I learn) but sings like a seraph. Everything — food, drink, impossibility, somehow snicked into the gravity-defying
vibe — is so inviting that I find myself joining the singalong cliffs that plunge in the distance towards the frothing
despite not knowing the words. ocean far below.
Reyder dos Santos notices my efforts. A local hiking Before too long, I spy the cliff-clinging village of
guide joining his French clients at the cafe, he tries to give Fontainhas, a jelly-bean-hued cluster of houses balanced
me the general gist. “The song is about a woman selling on a perilous spine, jutting high above the deep valley’s
fish,” he says, “but also much more — it’s a symbolic thing.” folds and lush terraces. Herminia had told me it has
“Music is so important to us; it’s like what you eat,” “one of the most beautiful views in the world”, and I can
Reyder continues. “And this island, it’s music, food, see what she means. The authorities would also concur:
mountains more than materialistic things. I left to study a board in the village square announces big plans for
overseas but always wanted to come back. My heart will Fontainhas, including improved road access and the
always be here.” safeguarding of its local heritage. I stroll through the
The very harshness of the land seems to engender a village and pray that the former doesn’t impinge upon
deeper connection to it; the emotional push-pull of sodade. the latter — although you can’t begrudge the residents for
I sip my xtomperod and keep singing. wanting an easier life.
It’s a stiff climb up to the col separating this coastal valley
Up in the air from the next, and I arrive to find a fragile blade of rock that
Aside from music, walking is the best chance an outsider seems in danger of being felled by the wind. The snaking
has of sensing this deeper connection on Santo Antão. descent from here to the isolated hamlet of Corvo, via a
“We love to trek,” confirms Herminia Ramos, a teacher cobbled trail, is punctuated by the 14 Stations of the Cross,
from Pombas whom I get chatting with in town. “Although depicting the events of Jesus’s journey to crucifixion.
sometimes it’s the only way to get around. There are still I note each one as I go, but mostly stare out to sea. Wim,
villages that have no roads.” Some of her students walk two at B&B Coração, had told me to keep an eye out for turtles,
hours to school and back each day, she tells me. Now, the
trails used by locals for centuries are drawing handfuls of
hikers like me. Clouds surge over the pass like a tidal
I’m staying in Ponta do Sol at B&B Coração, built from
local stone by Belgian expats Wim and Hilde Van Belle-
wave. It’s only thanks to a set of tiny
Van Gelder. My room has a balcony looking across an
figures on the trail ahead — farmers
abandoned runway to the ocean. Since the airstrip closed leading donkeys — that I can make
following a crash in 1999, a ferry has been the only way out which way I’m supposed to go

106 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
 




   

      
 CAPE VERDE

dolphins and whales: “All different whales. If you see a The route continues past formations of granular
‘pschew!’, you’ve seen whales,” he’d said, imitating the sound pumice stone, through a small canyon and into a scattered
of a spout. I stare hard. There’s a brown shape that might be community, where a few souls work parched terraces
a turtle — loggerheads, in particular, frequent these waters growing beans and corn. It’s here I meet Juan Bautista,
— but the sea is like a herd of white horses, making anything who’s tending to his donkeys: one brays a welcome,
else hard to discern. another rolls gleefully in the dust. Juan is keen to chat and,
A little further on, I stumble into Aranhas. The name although I don’t understand his Kriolu, he conveys a little
means ‘spider’ — apt for this now-abandoned village, given about his life. He shows me his simple house, the herbs he
over to insects, milkweed and Iago sparrows. The ruined brews into tea and the corn he’s harvested. As he speaks,
houses, some still standing, some slumped and spewed, two kittens chase wind-blown husks in the yard. These
are blending into the surrounding valley. Incredibly, amid are Juan’s day-to-day companions. Through snatched
this formidable landscape of rumpled rock, I can still make words, sign language and deduction, I work out his family,
out the former agricultural terraces, likely unfarmed for including three children, live elsewhere on the islands.
decades but enduring still. This lunar-like landscape of crusted lava flows and dry
riverbeds, with views across to 6,493ft Tope de Coroa,
Waiting for the rain Santo Antão’s highest peak, makes good hiking country.
My final walk, two days later, is an eight-mile loop along But life here can be harsh. The islands of Cape Verde can go
the Ribeira das Patas, on the island’s southeast coast. for very long stretches without rain. In the 1940s, around
Early-morning sun is sneaking into the wide valley’s dark, 45,000 people — equivalent to the entire population of
dry fissures as I stare at the fearsome Bordeira do Norte, a Santo Antão today — died as a result of drought; thousands
seemingly impenetrable wall of rock. But, somehow, there’s more were driven to emigrate. A classic of Cape Verdean
a track, and I’m soon zigzagging up sheer slopes of volcanic literature, Manuel Lopes’s 1960 novel Os Flagelados do
sand and stone, inching along dizzying precipices. The Vento Leste (‘The Victims of the East Wind’), describes
valley spreads below, the sea is lost to the haze beyond. To the struggle of surviving in this very valley when the rains
one side, clouds surge over the Alto Mira pass like a tidal don’t come. Lopes, who lived in Ribeira das Patas for some
Above from left: Views
over the mountains wave; to the other, the path scrapes across rock streaked time, wrote about the steep, hairpin path along which
south of Cruzinha; farmer with shades of orange. It’s only thanks to a set of figures on I’m hiking, which connects the uplands to the valley; the
Juan Bautista on the the trail in the distance — farmers leading donkeys — that treacherous route was heavily used by locals during the
Ribeira das Patas I can make out which way I’m supposed to go. famine-ravaged years.

J U L /AU G 2 0 24 109
CAPE VERDE

Fontainhas Ponta do Sol

Cruzinha
Santo ARANHAS
Pombas
Antão Chã de João Vaz RIBERIA DO PAUL
Pico de Antónia

TOPE DE COROA BORDEIRA DO NORTE

RIBEIRA DAS PATAS

São Vicente
MINDELO

AT L A N T I C O C E A N
CAPE
VERDE MAURITANIA

SENEGAL
THE GAMBIA

GUINEA-
AT L A N T I C O C E A N
BISSAU GUINEA

SIERRA 5 miles
LEONE

GETTING THERE & AROUND

The nearest airport to Santo Antão is
on Cape Verde’s São Vicente island.
TAP Air Portugal flies there from
London or Manchester via Lisbon.
flytap.com
Average flight time: 6.5h.
The ferry between Mindelo (São
Vicente) and Port Novo (Santo
Antão) takes one hour. Both islands
can be explored on foot. For longer
journeys, use taxis or alugueres (shared
minibuses), which leave when full and
can be flagged down on the roadside.

WHEN TO GO
Cape Verde is warm year-round, with
average temperatures consistently
ranging from 24 to 30C. The wind is
strongest November to March; the
bruma seca — when Saharan winds
can cause a sandy mist — is most likely
January to February. The climate is
very dry, with only a short monsoon
season from August to October.

WHERE TO STAY
B&B Coração, Ponta do Sol.
I leave Juan and climb to the dizzying viewpoint, with its From 10,248 escudos (£80), B&B.
wide-angle view over the Patas valley, where dark volcanic coracaopontadosol.com
crags police arid river channels that run waterless toward the Residencial Raiar, Mindelo. From 4,400
sea. I then descend via that very path, slaloming down the escudos (£34), B&B. residencialraiar.cv
face of the Bordeira do Norte. To walk it now, guesthouse and
cold Strela beer waiting below, is thrilling. To trudge along it MORE INFO
daily to watch over crops that won’t grow is unthinkable. visit-caboverde.com
The next morning, I catch the ferry back to Mindelo Bradt Guide to Cape Verde, £16.99
for one last night in Cape Verde — and the relative Cabo Verde and Miss Perfumado, by
cosmopolitanism of the town feels almost bewildering Cesária Évora.
after my last few days spent hiking in the wild. As I nurse
a final grogue at La Scène M, a cool courtyard music bar HOW TO DO IT
twinkling with fairy-lights, my mind drifts back to Juan Walks Worldwide has a new eight-day
ILLUSTRATION: JOHN PLUMER

Bautista high up on his plateau; I hope the rains will be self-guided Hiking Trails of Cape Verde
good this year. trip from £769 per person, including
On the bar’s low stage, a lady steps out and begins to B&B accommodation in traditional
Above: En route to the
sing a slow, haunting tune. It sounds filled with love and Bordeira do Norte cliff hotels and guesthouses, picnic lunches,
loss, though, of course, I don’t know any of the words. But face, the surrounding most dinners, walk notes, private
maybe that’s as it should be – it’s something only a Cape peaks, and views of the transfers and ferry tickets. Excludes
Verdean can truly understand. coast, are lost in the haze flights. walksworldwide.com

11 0 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
Explore Cape Verde offers nature-based excursions showcasing the
stunning beauty and diverse wildlife of Cape Verde. Join our expert
marine biologists and conservationists on a range of unforgettable
experiences like observing the endangered loggerhead sea turtle nesting
process during our Turtle Walks (July-September) or encountering
lemon sharks and their pups in their natural habitat on our Shark
Experience (year-round). We are dedicated to quality, conservation, and
sustainability. As part of our commitment, we donate a portion of every
tour fee to local conservation efforts, contributing over €25,000 to date.
By choosing our tours, you help support vital conservation work.

Website: www.explorecv.com Email: [email protected] Tel: +2385901549 Follow Us: @ExploreCapeVerde

| P A I D C O N T E N T F O R A I R A S TA N A

CENTRAL ASIA
It’s prime time to
discover Kazakhstan
Fresh flight routes, festivals with nomadic flair and millennia-old landscapes make
the Kazakh Steppe a destination to discover in 2024. Words: SJ Armstrong

S
tretching far out into the horizon, Most visitors will enter Kazakhstan red and golden gorge is cut through by a
the vast grass seas of the Great from the forest-swathed southeast, landing walkable or driveable (in a 4x4) trail guiding
Steppe roll across Central Asia in Almaty. Divided by dense thickets of visitors to dizzying desert viewpoints.
in rugged and dramatic fashion. pine and birch, the city’s surrounding green Those keen to venture deeper into central
Though occasionally roamed by the rare mountain peaks conceal vast lakes and Kazakhstan can take the train into the
horse rider or lone nomad, the plains twisting horse-back trails. In Kolsay Lakes region of Turkistan and the historic Silk
of Kazakhstan are largely unexplored National Park, Lake Kaindy’s cerulean Road city of Shymkent. Life has persevered
by the majority of travellers. But this waters draw the most attention. Here, here since the fourth century, with the city
beautiful, remote region is increasingly a landslide triggered by an earthquake playing host to Sufi sheikhs and Mongol
showing its modern face to the world formed a natural dam and submerged a leaders, and becoming a centre of Islamic
through its cities, events and transport spruce forest beneath the surface of the learning under the Timurids. Hop over low-
hubs. In 2024, as direct flight routes from lake. It’s now surrounded by picturesque lying mud-brick walls and stroll between the
London increase and UK visitors gain 30- hiking trails and secluded accommodation turquoise-tiled domes that cap mausoleums
day visa-free access, it’s easier than ever options. For equally dramatic yet drastically around the city, or roam the battlement
to experience Kazakhstan’s distinctive different scenery, travel from Almaty to ridges of the protective outer wall. The city’s
culture and landscapes. Here’s how to do it. Charyn Canyon. Easily traversable, this vast Uzbek architecture and Persian designs were
 | P A I D C O N T E N T F O R A I R A S TA N A

ESSENTIAL INFO

WHY NOW?
In September 2024,
competitors from all
over the Eurasian Steppe
will converge in Astana
for the fifth World
Nomad Games. Athletes
participate in events
like mounted archery,
falconry, goat pulling and
horseback wrestling.

WHERE TO STAY
Base your travels in either
Aktau or Almaty, both
of which are accessible
via direct flights from
Heathrow with Air Astana
up to four times a week.
These cosmopolitan hubs
serve as gateways to the
country’s best natural and
cultural experiences. To
catch the World Nomad
Games, take a domestic
flight to the country’s
capital, Astana.

WHEN TO TRAVEL
Seasons are an intense
affair in Kazakhstan as
temperatures can range
from 40C to -20C. The
best time to visit is during
the spring or autumn,
when the climate is more
moderate. In winter, head
to Almaty, where ski areas
are accessed via cable-car.

Clockwise from left: Lake Kaindy; the

mountains of Altyn-Emel National Park;
conserved under Soviet rule, making it an Reserve. From large Tyrannosaurus rex and wrestlers at the World Nomad Games

ideal stop for those curious about the history mammoths to giant fish fossilised within
of the Turkic Steppe and a great base for the Paleozoic seas, the fauna of the region
further exploration of the Turkistan Region. has been millennia in the making. PLAN YOUR TRIP
When in the west, the port city of All these landscapes have been navigated
Aktau and its Caspian shores offer easy for centuries by the nomadic people of the Kazakhstan’s award-winning
access to the otherworldly plateaus that steppe, whose ancient traditions you can flagship carrier Air Astana
IMAGES: GETTY; KAZAKHSTAN.TRAVEL

characterise the Mangystau Region. witness today. Observe displays of horse operates direct routes from
Laced with lines of ochre rock and amber riding or falconers flying their hunting eagles London to Aktau and Almaty up
streaks, here colourful geology enshrouds before settling down to try beshbarmak, a to four times per week. For more
labyrinthine desert trails and dramatic platter of boiled meat and innards served information, visit airastana.com
gorges. Sharp jutting ridges and undulating with a glass of fermented milk to settle the
rock formations shadow clear traces of 50 stomach. Alternatively, order qurt, a cheese
million years of life existing in its canyons made from goat’s or camel’s milk that’s stored
— palaeontologists regularly unearth new in saddlebags and churned by the galloping
evidence of animal life in the Ustyurt Nature motion of the nomads’ horses.

T H I S I S PA I D C O N T E N T. I T D O E S N OT N E C E S S A R I LY R E F L E C T T H E V I E W S O F N AT I O N A L G E O G R A P H I C ,
N AT I O N A L G E O G R A P H I C T R AV E L L E R ( U K ) O R I T S E D I TO R I A L S TA F F.
 Natural highs
STRE TC HIN G O U T B ELOW TH E PE AK O F KR ÁĽOVA H O Ľ A IN C ENTR AL SLOVAKIA
I S TH E REG I O N O F H O REHRO N IE. KN OWN FO R TH E RIC H B I OVER S IT Y O F IT S
MO U NTAIN S , ME AD OWS AND VALLE YS — CO NTAININ G FO U R NATI O NAL PARKS
— TH E A R E A D R AWS H I K ER S , MO U NTAI N B I K ER S A N D S K I ER S . TH ERE’ S
FO LK CU LT U RE AND IND U STRIAL HERITAG E TO D I SCOVER , TO O,
W H I C H PA S S I O N ATE LO C AL S A R E K EEN TO PRE S ERVE

WORDS & PHOTOGR APHS: DANIEL ALFORD

11 4 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
J U L /AU G 2 0 24 115
11 6 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
 S LOVA K I A

Horehronie’s valleys are dotted with remains of the region’s industrial past, including railways once used to transport timber. Relics
include a railway carriage in the village of Telgárt converted into Depo Café, which serves coffee and cake. Some 35 miles to the west,
the narrow-guage railway at Čierny Hron is an obligatory school trip for Slovakian children. The trains passing through here were
terrorised in the 18th century by local folk hero and bandit Jakub Surovec, who gave the spoils to the poor. The railway still runs
— there are even reenactments of his hold-ups, with musicians such as Maroš Smrečan playing the accordion to entertain passengers.

J U L /AU G 2 0 24 117
S LOVA K I A

At 281sq miles, Low Tatras National Park is the largest in Slovakia, and bears, wolves and lynx thrive on its densely forested
mountain slopes. Parts of it are restricted, with access granted only to ecologists and rangers in order to protect the wildlife. In the
wider park, people enjoy hiking and cycling, stopping to spot flora and fungi, such as the fairytale-like, but highly toxic, fly agaric
mushroom. Slovakia has one of the best marked trail systems in Europe, and in Horehronie some of these follow old logging roads.
Along these routes, visitors will find cabins and bunkhouses, like the one at Andrejcová, a welcome respite after a long day’s walk.

11 8 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
J U L /AU G 2 0 24 119
 S LOVA K I A

Eastern Horehronie is dominated by ‘the mother of four rivers’, Kráľova hoľa. Four rivers spring from the mountain’s southern
slope and it’s become a national monument, featuring in songs, poems and folklore. It’s part of the longest ridgeline in the country
and was used as a place of refuge by partisans fighting the Nazis during the latter stages of the Second World War. Today, climbing
Kráľova hoľa and walking the Trail of the Slovak National Uprising Heroes is a rite of passage for many Slovakians. The hike offers
spectacular views, plus the chance to pick wild cranberries in late summer — as long as you get to them before the bears.

J U L /AU G 2 0 24 121
S LOVA K I A

As well as being rich in timber, Horehronie was home to Slovakia’s iron production in the 18th and 19th centuries. Local historians
and architects are currently working to preserve relevant sites in the region — such as this pink building in Zlatno, once used as a
forge — to create a 12-mile ‘Iron Route’. Villages in this area are also known for their diverse folk culture, which derives from a history
of herding and shepherding that predates industrialisation. These traditions are kept alive by craftspeople in the village of Polomka,
which is home to a folk museum with archive photo displays and a ceramics studio that runs pottery classes.

12 2 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
 Swissotel Lima, located in the Business Center of San Isidro,
redefines luxury with its elegant design and first-class services.
This European-style hotel with a Swiss touch offers an
exclusive experience for executives and discerning travellers,
combining comfort and sophistication.
Its modern facilities include gourmet restaurants, a comprehensive
wellness centre and spacious event halls, ensuring an unforgettable
stay. Swissotel Lima stands out for its prime location, commitment
to excellence and personalised attention, solidifying its reputation
as a benchmark of luxury in the city.

[email protected]
The Big Trip

Peru
FROM A N D E A N PE A K S TO A M A ZO N I A N J U N G LE S A N D TH E
AN C I ENT C ITI ES O F TH E IN C A S , PERU O FFERS TH E PERFEC T
BA SE FO R AN EPIC ADVENTU RE. WO RDS: STEPH DYSO N

A trip across Peru feels like passing through The Inca Empire was but a brief, 100-year
multiple countries and cultures merged into chapter in the nation’s millennia-old story.
one. The topography is as diverse as it is And the north proves just how unparalleled
dramatic; in just a few days, you can pass from that history is. Those with the time and
the desert of the coastal lowlands to the saw- curiosity to head beyond the staples are
toothed, glacial peaks of the Andes Mountains justly rewarded. Dusty cities and cloud-
and onwards to reach the emerald enclave forest-fringed valleys conceal archaeological
of the world’s largest tropical rainforest. En sites predating the Inca by hundreds, if not
route are thousands of 16th-century towns, thousands, of years. Hikers will also find
Indigenous communities and archaeological some of South America’s finest trails in the
sites, relics of ancient civilisations that have high altitudes surrounding Huaraz’s glacier-
managed to capture the collective imagination studded national parks.
like few others around the world. No matter where you go, Peruvian cuisine
Chief among those civilisations is the Inca, a reflects this intersection of culture and nature.
superpower that ruled in the 15th century from The gastronomy of Lima has risen to world-
modern-day Ecuador in the north, down to the class status over the past two decades with
Chilean capital of Santiago. Itineraries for first- dishes such as ceviche, where local fish is ‘flash
time visitors focus on the heart of their empire, cooked’ in lime juice — a form of marinating
the Andean highlands of southern Peru. Tack introduced by Japanese immigrants in the late
on an extra week and you can discover the other 19th century. In the Andes, pachamanca is an
big-hitting wonders of the country’s south, ancient dish where potatoes and meat are still
including Lake Titicaca, Arequipa city and the cooked by scorching hot stones.
Nasca Lines. It’s a journey from mountains to Travel here is spectacular, but it can also The magnificent
dusty lowland desert: along the way, gaze at the be slow and, at times, frustrating. This is a Machu Picchu ruins
barren Altiplano from a classic Pullman train country where distances are large and regional were made famous
carriage; sleep in a one-of-a-kind reed B&B; and flights often require a connection through when rediscovered
glide above colossal geoglyphs in the belly of a Lima. It’s a place that demands patience but by explorer Hiram
Cessna plane. the payoff is worth it. Bingham in 1911

1 24 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
IMAGE: AWL IMAGES

J U L /AU G 2 0 24 12 5
 I T I N E R A RY O N E
1. Cusco
2. Sacred Valley
3. Machu Picchu
4. Lake Titicaca
5. Arequipa
6. Nasca Lines

ITI N E R A RY O N E THE BIG HIT TERS

Start point: Cusco • End point: Nasca Lines • Distance travelled: 550 miles • Average length: 14 days

The south is the tourism capital of Peru, HIGHLIGHTS sell handwoven llama and alpaca wool textiles,
and for good reason: it packs a punch while and you can sample roast guinea pig — a local
remaining easily navigable. This itinerary CUSCO delicacy. At the end of the day, head to the Inca
begins in the high elevations of Cusco, Fly from Lima to Cusco, the former capital town of Ollantaytambo, home to the ruins of
gateway to the Sacred Valley and Machu of the Inca Empire, now a UNESCO World an Inca fortress, and overnight at El Albergue,
Picchu. South east is Lake Titicaca, where the Heritage Site. Spanish invaders built baroque a family-run B&B in a historic hacienda.
Indigenous Uros people constructed homes churches and terracotta-roofed mansions over alpacaexpeditions.com elalbergue.com
out of unlikely materials for survival. The Inca palaces, but the Sacsayhuamán fortress
white architecture of Arequipa, the country’s has survived as one of the best displays of Inca M AC H U P I C C H U
second city, breaks up the journey from architecture. Take a taxi to this archaeological From Ollantaytambo, PeruRail’s Vistadome
highlands to lowlands before you finish on the site, located just above the city, where you’ll train races to Aguas Calientes, the town right
Pacific Coast, where the Nasca Lines reflect find walls constructed from a perfect jigsaw beneath Machu Picchu. Spend a day here,
another of Peru’s ingenious ancient peoples. of boulders weighing up to 120 tonnes apiece. exploring the centre and stay at Inkaterra, a
Along the way, you’ll experience many latamairlines.com hotel in 12 acres of cloud forest, home to 214
different types of transport. Buses, flights species of bird — including hummingbirds, the
and a handful of comfortable trains shuttle S AC R E D VA L L E Y golden-headed quetzal and the iconic Andean
between destinations, all with the guarantee Named for its spiritual and agrarian cock-of-the-rock — and 372 of native orchid.
of superlative views. The high elevations importance to the Inca people, this valley The next morning, head to Machu Picchu,
along the way — peaking at 11,152ft in Cusco remains the region’s breadbasket. Explore the ancient citadel that’s become a symbol of
and 12,507ft at Lake Titicaca — are no holiday Moray, where stepped, concentric terraces the lost Inca Empire since being revealed to
for your body or brain, so drink plenty of acted as a sophisticated agricultural the wider world by explorer Hiram Bingham in
coca tea, a great local antidote to soroche laboratory for the Inca, before heading to 1911. Take the first bus to its entrance at 6am
(altitude sickness). Chinchero market. Merchants gather here to to watch the sun rise over its terraces and the

1 26 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
 P E RU

Ollantaytambo,
an Inca town in
the Sacred Valley
Q&A
Pía León, owner of Mauka
restaurant, Cusco

D O YO U H AV E A FAVO U R I T E
D I S H T H AT YO U T H I N K
CAPTURES THE ESSENCE OF
PERUVIAN CUI SINE?
Ceviche. It’s a good representation
of Peruvian food, which mixes local
cultures, immigrant cuisines and
an immensely diverse pantry. It’s
fresh, light and delicate, but it can
also be intense — I like the contrast
of chilli pepper, onions and lime
juice, with nuances of herbs and
ginger. It’s also super versatile:
it can be made from local fish or
many other ingredients.

YO U C H O S E C U S C O A S
T H E LO C AT I O N F O R YO U R
N E W E S T R E S TAU R A N T,
M AU K A . W H Y H E R E ?
Cusco is at the centre of Peru’s
historical legacy and in very
close proximity to Andean and
Amazonian ingredients. Locals are
proud to show what they produce,
from potatoes (of which there
brooding Huayna Picchu mountain. perurail. volcanic sillar used to construct its baroque are thousands) to legumes and
com inkaterra.com machupicchu.gob.pe architecture. Arequipeño gastronomy is Andean grains. When I’m here,
a source of pride, so head to a traditional I choose simple food, such as corn
L A K E T I T I C AC A picantería restaurant to sample rocoto relleno, and cheese, locally made tamales
The ticket back from Aguas Calientes to a spicy stuffed pepper dish filled with meat, and chicharron (crunchy, fried
Cusco with PeruRail covers both the train cheese and eggs, cooked over a wood fire. pork). Cusqueñisima Picantería
to Ollantaytambo and the onward bus trip. peruhop.com is a nice place to try traditional
From Cusco, settle into the observation car to dishes, including chicha de jora (a
watch the grassy plains of the Altiplano whip NASCA LINES fermented corn drink). instagram.
past during the 10-hour train ride to Puno, the A final eight-hour bus journey takes you com/cusquenisima.picanteria
gateway town to Lake Titicaca. Floating on its down from the mountains and along the
waters are the 120-or-so Uros Islands, feats coast to reach the town of Nasca. Here, a tour W H AT C A N P E O P L E E X P E C T
IMAGE: GETTY. ILLUSTRATION: TANYA COOPER

of engineering first constructed from totora by light aircraft gives you the best views of F RO M M AU K A?
reeds by the Indigenous Uros over 500 years the Nasca Lines, giant geoglyphs showing Through my work, I aim to preserve
ago to escape Inca invasion. Uros people still hummingbirds, monkeys and other shapes and showcase my country’s
live here and visitors can now overnight in etched into the desert over 2,000 years ago megadiversity. Each region has its
their reed guesthouses. Book with All Ways — although how, or why, remains a mystery. own ingredients, with different
Travel, whose profits go to local communities. aeronasca.com tones and nuances, and a clear
titicacaperu.com identity and history. Mauka
H OW TO D O I T: Explore’s 14-day Simple Peru continues in the same vein,
A R E Q U I PA itinerary takes in all highlights listed above and right at the meeting of Peruvian
A six-hour bus journey from Lake Titicaca, costs from £1,390 per person, excluding flights. biodiversity, cuisine and art.
Arequipa is nicknamed White City for the explore.co.uk belmond.com

J U L /AU G 2 0 24 127
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ITI N E R A RY T WO HIGHLIGHTS OF THE NORTH

Start point: Huaraz • End point: Utcubamba Valley • Distance travelled: 700 miles • Average length: 14 days

Witnessing little international attention, HIGHLIGHTS C H I C L AYO

northern Peru receives just a fraction of There’s more history on display a four-hour
the visitors of the better-known south. Yet H UA R A Z bus journey away, inside Chiclayo’s under-
it’s home to some of the country’s richest From Lima, buses take around nine hours to the-radar Museo de Tumbas Reales del
archaeological sites, as well as natural reach this high-altitude city. Give yourself two Senor de Sipán. A 20-minute taxi ride from
wonders you’re likely to have to yourself. days to acclimatise with short hikes around the city centre, it has a staggering, three-
Start in the Cordillera Blanca, an Andean the surrounding Cordillera Blanca, then join floor collection showcasing gold artefacts
sub-range of sky-reaching peaks, before Turismo Andino on a two-day trek to Lake discovered in the tombs of a nearby Moche
making your way to the coast. Pre-Columbian 69 in Huascarán National Park, a UNESCO site. Afterwards, get lost in Mercado de
artefacts abound outside the metropolises Biosphere Reserve and World Heritage Site. Brujos (Witch Doctors’ Market), where you
of Chiclayo and Trujillo, where museums are You’ll clamber high into glacier-sheathed can find folk remedies said to help mend
stacked to the rafters with gold, and adobe mountains and through valleys splashed a broken heart, charms to attract wealth
pyramids built between 100 and 800 CE still with crystalline lakes — and stay overnight and everything in between. facebook.com/
stand proud. Then, from the city of Cajamarca in a rustic lodge with pisco sours on tap. museotumbasrealesdesipanoficial
— where you can soak in thermal waters once turismoandino.com.pe
frequented by Inca emperors — a road traces C A JA M A RC A
through the mountains to the green Amazonas T R U J I L LO Second only to Cusco for its elegant
region for the last stops on this itinerary. It’s a seven-hour bus ride to the dusty, 16th- architecture and a six-hour bus journey
Tourism is nascent in the north and the century city of Trujillo. A local highlight is inland, Cajamarca is where the fate of the
infrastructure reflects this. Domestic flights Huaca de la Luna, an adobe pyramid built Inca was sealed. To secure his release after
are either non-existent or require a stopover by the pre-Incan Moche civilisation, whose having been imprisoned by the Spanish, final
in Lima, so bus journeys often offer the most use of human sacrifices is recorded in grisly Inca leader Atahualpa supposedly called for
direct transit between destinations. They can friezes. Next, catch some waves at the nearby his subjects across the empire to send enough
be long, slow and occasionally hair-raising beach town of Huanchaco aboard a caballito gold and silver to fill a room, but was executed
— but as you whizz past adobe villages tucked de totora, reed boats first used by fishermen regardless in 1533. Los Baños del Inca, said to
into mountain passes and career alongside 3,000 years ago and considered by some to have been his favourite thermal waters, are
yawning valleys, you’ll feel like you’re be the predecessors of modern surfboards. just a few miles away and still open to visitors.
travelling through time, too. huacasdemoche.pe trebolviajesperu.com ctbi.pe

128 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
 Tortora reed fishing rafts in Pimentel,
a coastal village near Chiclayo
Left: The Cathedral Basilica of St
Mary and the Freedom Monument
in Plaza de Armas, Trujillo

G O C TA FA L L S
Bring earplugs, an eye mask and a jumper
for the long, 12-hour bus ride to Cajamarca:
temperatures on board tend to be either I T I N E R A RY T WO
glacial or sweltering. The six-hour hike to 1. Huaraz
the base of Gocta Falls is worth the mud: one 2. Trujillo
of the world’s tallest single-drop waterfalls, 3. Chiclayo
it plunges 2,530ft from clifftop to cloud- 4. Cajamarca
forested valley floor. Spend the night in a 5. Gocta Falls
cabin with a view at Gocta Natura Reserve. 6. Utcubamba Valley
goctanaturareserve.com

U TC U B A M B A VA L L E Y
IMAGES: AWL IMAGES; ALAMY. ILLUSTRATION: TANYA COOPER

Finish your trip with a two-hour bus

ride through the Utcubamba Valley and
Leymebamba town, where the namesake
museum features 200 mummies discovered
in a local cave in 1997. They belong to the
Chachapoya, warrior people who predate the
Inca by over six centuries. Learn more about
them at their walled city of Kuélap, where 400
circular houses are built on a high ridge.

H OW T O D O I T: Journey Latin America’s 14-day

Tico Tico: Culture of the Northern Andes tour visits
all highlights listed above except Huaraz from
£3,100 per person, excluding international flights.
journeylatinamerica.com
P E RU

EYEWITNESS

CANYON COUNTRY

Peru’s first tented camp, Puqio, offers safari-style rooms, farm-to-table dining and hikes to the edge
of the country’s Colca Canyon, a barren kingdom where the vulture is king. Words: Damien Gabet

“The messengers of the gods!” It’s easy to guess guide drama of the Colca Canyon plunging around 13,120ft into
Freddy Huaracha’s favourite bird. As he speaks about the earth — double the depth of the US’s Grand Canyon. It
the Andean condor, his voice inflects, the tone rising has green sandstone ridges; huge, fluted seams of shale; and
and falling as if following a flight. His arms swing round, the emerald scribble of the Colca River below. “Welcome to
hugging the view of the valley around the trail, open large the kingdom of the condor,” says Freddy. “The view’s rather
like these black vultures’ record wingspans. “The Inca spectacular, don’t you think?”
considered them the embodiment of the upper world, the As if summoned, a bird appears. A white-collared male
sky, the future,” he says, wide-eyed. “Today, they bring us Andean condor, the largest flying bird in the world with a
good fortune: every year, more people come to visit.” 10-foot wingspan, glides past, looking for a carrion breakfast
Freddy is guiding me on a two-mile climb from the — elegant, commanding, foreboding. We wait around for
village of Madrigal to the ruins of the pre-Incan Chimpa more sightings, but the sky goes quiet after that first flight.
Fortress, a fortified high ground at 14,475ft, which he says So, we scramble down the mountain with satisfying speed
is the best place in the entire Colca Valley to spot these before driving back to camp.
giant birds. This sweeping grassland in the Andes of There’s a touch of safari nostalgia at Puqio. That night,
southern Peru, home to low-growing vegetation, gurgling beneath the light of a full pink moon, I fill my tin bath for
volcanoes and free-roaming, alpaca-like vicuña, has long a soak under Incan constellations, reading Wordsworth
been known for its namesake Colca Canyon. Carved by poems that have been laid out on my wooden bureau. A
the skinny, slow-moving Colca River, it’s one of the world’s homely air permeates, from the alpaca-wool slippers to the
deepest gorges and cuts through the mountains for some no-menu restaurant.
50 miles. More recently, it has attracted travellers as the I try peruanita potatoes the following lunch, baked over
home of Puqio (‘spring’ in Quechuan), the country’s first hot stones with organic corn, broad beans, chicken and
safari-like camp. It opened late last year in a clearing alpaca meat — all swaddled in aromatic mountain flora
overlooking the river, and I’m spending a few nights in one — in a pachamanca ‘earth oven’. Everything on the table is
of its eight canvas tents to explore the gorge and beyond. either from Puqio’s own garden or farmers’ fields nearby.
The Chimpa Fortress can be reached by coach, but the Food traditions, Freddy tells me when I meet him later, are
experience rewards walkers: so far, I’ve seen no one else. dying out in the community. “At school, it was once toasted
What began as a dirt track wide enough for a 4WD soon corn and a piece of cheese; now, it’s sandwiches and fried
tapers to a precipitous, single-track trail that winds tightly everything,” he says. To save the recipes of his family and
up the mountain where the fortress once stood. Below us elderly neighbours, he runs independent cookery classes.
is the prettiest quilt of farm plots — quinoa, barley, corn — “You have to try my pesque de quinoa [quinoa and cheese
each with its own flaxen hue. They’re flanked by eucalyptus porridge],” he says. “It’s ridiculously tasty.”
and swaying pampas grass, whose stems, Freddy says, local I catch sight of his plot that afternoon, on a horse ride
children string together to make kites. — another of Puqio’s excursions — of the hills above the
At this altitude, every step is a little victory against neighbouring village of Yanque. Moving at a trot, I take in
howling lungs and weeping legs. I stop to catch my breath, the details: the still-flowing Incan irrigation, the nursery
and Freddy jumps over the trail’s wooden barrier to relieve terraces laid out like grand Roman amphitheatres. The
a prickly pear cactus of its spikes, then twists off the fruit. bone-dry air creates a clarity of light that makes me blink Clockwise from top
IMAGES: IVAN SALINERO; GETTY

“Here,” he says, passing it over. “This should help.” Half- at the view — especially at the Sabancaya volcano erupting left: Cruz del Condor
viewpoint, Colca
pomegranate, half-watermelon, it’s the sugar hit I need to in an ash cloud in the distance. As night falls, a crepuscular
Canyon; pachamanca,
reach the summit. light tints everything purple. This is a kingdom alright,
a culinary technique
When I do reach it, every effort is worth it. The fortress, and nature reigns sovereign.
used since Inca times; a
still remarkably intact, tells the story of the local Collaguas canvas tent at Puqio; a
people, who used it to patrol the valley’s water sources and H OW T O D O I T: Two-person tents at Puqio from US$821 (£655) per woman spins wool for
fertile soil, and whose descendants still inhabit the valley. night, including transfer by car from Arequipa, which takes three her weaving community
From this vantage point, the view opens up to the colossal hours, and all meals, activities and excursions. puqio.pe in the Colca Valley

130 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
J U L /AU G 2 0 24 131
 P E RU

Plaza San Martin in the

Historic Centre of Lima

F U RT H ER A FI EL D
Amazon rainforest

Eight countries lay claim to

tracts of the globe’s largest
tropical rainforest, but Peru’s
well-developed infrastructure
makes the experience here one
of the best for visitors.
A popular entry point is Puerto
Maldonado city in Peru’s Madre
de Dios region, one hour by plane
from Cusco. Accommodation in
this area spans rustic, family-
run lodges to high-end hotels,
most providing meals and daily
excursions on foot or by boat.
Options often include outings to
clay licks frequented by scarlet
macaws or daytime and nocturnal
jungle walks, where the lucky
might spot two- and three-toed
sloths and harpy eagles. Lodges
within a 30-minute boat ride of
2 4 H O U RS IN LIM A the fringes of Reserva Nacional
Tambopata are a good option for
visitors short on time. With more
8AM 3PM days to spare, it’s worth heading
Linking the neighbourhoods of Miraflores and Few cities contain a 1,600-year-old adobe to 28-room Tambopata Research
Barranco, the cliffside promenade of El Malécon pyramid surrounded by skyscrapers, making Center, the most remote eco-lodge
has ocean views and bold statues by Peruvian Huaca Pucllana — a ceremonial centre for the in the reserve itself.
sculptors. Head into café Maridá for an Andean pre-Inca Lima Culture society — well worth the Alternatively, the northern
cheese omelette and a cup of Peruvian coffee. 10-minute taxi ride. Entry tickets, which include entry into the jungle is the frontier
instagram.com/maridacafe a guided tour, are sold on site. town of Iquitos, an urban island in
the middle of the rainforest that’s
1 0A M 8PM only reachable by plane or boat.
Take a 20-minute cab ride north to the Museo Each course in the tasting menu at Central, This is the option for visitors who
Larco to peruse its 50,000 pre-Columbian number one in The World’s 50 Best Restaurants want to join a multi-day cruise
ceramics, curated in chronological galleries, list, explores an ecosystem, with ingredients along the Amazon River, heading
including a collection of x-rated pottery. from the Andes to the coast. Reservations up into the flooded forests of the
museolarco.org open three months in advance and go fast. Reserva Nacional Pacaya-Samiria.
centralrestaurante.com.pe Small-boat expeditions are best,
1PM as they can navigate more remote
IMAGES: ALAMY; GETTY

Return to Miraflores along the Metropolitano 10PM stretches of river, but prices aren’t
bus line for some of Lima’s best ceviche at La Head to Miraflores bar Lady Bee for a pisco cheap. Onboard naturalist guides
Mar Cebichería Peruana. It’s owned by chef sour — or to discover the spirit’s versatility, are on hand to spot pink river
Gastón Acurio, who’s often credited with having with a cocktail menu that blends Peruvian dolphins, Amazonian manatees
put Peruvian food on the global culinary map. ingredients like cacao and root vegetables. and black caimans, as well as
lamarcebicheria.com instagram.com/ladybee.lima hundreds of birds.

J U L /AU G 2 0 24 13 3
P E RU

View over Cusco’s Plaza

de Armas, from the hill of
Sacsayhuamán

A practical guide to visiting Peru

Should I visit using a tour operator Which Machu Picchu circuit should I book? GETTING THERE & AROUND
or independently? In 2021, the Peruvian Ministry of Culture There are no direct flights to Peru, but
Booking with a tour operator means you won’t implemented one-way visitor circuits at various airlines fly from London to Lima
have to worry about logistics, which can, at Machu Picchu to disperse traffic, and while with one connection.
times, be complicated. If you’re travelling to pandemic-era restrictions are no longer in Average flight time: 16h.
Machu Picchu from Cusco, for example, a tour place, the system remains to better distribute Domestic flights connect Lima with
operator will take care of all legs of the journey, footfall and protect constructions. The four other cities, although inter-regional
which includes a bus, rail and minibus ride. tracks take in different parts of the citadel; travel is generally only by bus, which is
As larger suitcases aren’t allowed on the train, circuit 2 is the most comprehensive, but both affordable and mostly comfortable.
your operator will also look after your luggage circuits 1 and 2 take in the ‘lower’ as well
should you want to overnight in the gateway as the ‘upper’ areas, including the House WHEN TO GO
town of Aguas Calientes before or after visiting of the Guardian, which offers the iconic September to the end of November is
the citadel. What’s more, it means you’ll have a pulled-back view of the site. Circuits 3 and 4 cool and dry along the coast (20C) and
guide with you at most times, which can really take in only the ‘lower’ structures. For more in the highlands (16C) and less crowded
bring this storied country to life. information on what each circuit includes, than the peak months (June to end
That said, Peru — especially the south — is visit ticketmachupicchu.com August). Water levels in the Amazon are
easy enough to visit independently, with a the lowest between June and December,
well-developed tourist infrastructure. Bus How should I manage my money when when animals concentrate around water
companies such as Peru Hop, whose services travelling here? channels, making this prime time for
include hotel pick up and English-speaking In places such as Cusco and Lima, credit cards wildlife viewing. The Inca trail closes for
guides, can make the logistics easier. are increasingly accepted, but in rural areas maintenance every February.
and small restaurants, shops and B&Bs, cash
If I plan the trip myself, should I book every is king. ATMs will generally charge a fee of MORE INFO
leg of the itinerary before I leave? between £5 and £10 for withdrawals, so it can peru.travel
Cornerstone experiences such as Machu Picchu make sense to take cash out in larger amounts. DK Eyewitness Peru. £14.99
and the Inca Trail require advance booking, Use ATMs attached to banks, during daylight
particularly during high season (June to the hours and with other people around. HOW TO DO IT
end of August). Reserve six weeks in advance Latin Routes has a 14-day Peru Explorer
for the former and at least six months ahead Do I need to speak Spanish? itinerary, which covers the country’s
for the latter. Flights and accommodation Few Peruvians outside of tourist hubs speak southern highlights and includes
should also be booked at least three months much English. Aside from helping you board flights to Lima, from £3,799 per person.
IMAGE: ALAMY

in advance during this period. Overland bus the correct bus, knowing some basic Spanish For an additional £2,299 per person,
travel can generally be secured a day or two can assist when it comes to haggling for a taxi their Northern Peru add-on visits
before departure, particularly in the north or at the local market, where it’s common to under-the-radar archaeological sites.
of Peru, where there are fewer tourists. try to knock a bit of money off prices. latinroutes.co.uk

13 4 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
PERU BY RAIL
Travellers will find a great selection of train services in Peru, from which to explore the
country. For trips to one of the wonders of the world, Machu Picchu, wanderers will
find a great ally in PeruRail trains. These include a wide range of expedition schedules
and travelling to the Vistadome Observatory accompanied by panoramic views.

For those prioritising sophisticated journeys, Hiram Bingham, A Belmond Train,

offers exclusive experiences on board its 1920s-style carriages including fine
dining. Finally, if your adventure in Peru is extended, PeruRail Titicaca provides
a luxurious day journey to the highest navigable lake in the world. Whereas
South America’s first sleeper train — Andean Explorer, A Belmond Train, glides
high across the Andean plains of Cusco, Puno and Arequipa.

Visit perurail.com and belmond.com

| PA I D C O N T E N T F O R V I S I T T H E U S A

USA
Flavours of Philadelphia
This eclectic East Coast city is enjoying its moment in the spotlight. Come for its political history,
but stay for its vibrant melting pot of cuisines, culture and creativity. Words: Zoey Goto
 | PA I D C O N T E N T F O R V I S I T T H E U S A

“W
elcome to the original Yet Mijuel, a young historian who leads
White House!” my The Black Journey walking tour, is quick to
tour guide Mijuel K add that there are elements of the city’s past
Johnson enthuses, still being uncovered. “We’re standing on
his arms outstretched like a conductor the site of the President’s House, which
frozen in motion. We’re standing on historic served as the original capital of the United
ground, in the heart of Philadelphia’s leafy States from 1790 to 1800, while Washington
Independence National Historical Park. DC was under construction. You see,
Looming beyond Mijuel’s shoulder is the Philadelphians have long been the OGs!”
terracotta facade of Independence Hall, Mijuel laughs, as we peer at the remains of
known as the birthplace of the USA due to the mansion, unearthed during a planned
IMAGES: GETTY; ALAMY

the Declaration of Independence having extension of the Liberty Bell Center in

been signed here in 1776. Nearby, a queue of 2007. Part archaeological dig, part period
tourists are waiting to pay their respects at the reconstruction, this is the spot where George
From left: Philadelphia skyline;
small but mighty Liberty Bell, a longstanding Washington and, later, John Adams lived.
vendors and customers at Reading symbol of USA freedom, first rung when the It’s also where nine enslaved people served
Terminal Market declaration was initially read to the public. the first president, Mijuel adds.

T H I S I S PA I D C O N T E N T. I T D O E S N OT N E C E S S A R I LY R E F L E C T T H E V I E W S O F N AT I O N A L G E O G R A P H I C ,
N AT I O N A L G E O G R A P H I C T R AV E L L E R ( U K ) O R T H E I R E D I TO R I A L S TA F F S .
| PA I D C O N T E N T F O R V I S I T T H E U S A

Philadelphia’s storied past, particularly and handsome brownstone houses gently

when it comes to the American Revolution, unfold. On the corner of South 9th Street, I
has long been the key draw of Pennsylvania’s meet Jacqueline Kelly, owner of StrEATS of
most populous city, honoured as the first Philly Food Tours, standing at the frenetic
World Heritage City in the USA. But these mouth of the Italian Market, one of the oldest
days, the city’s diverse food and arts scenes and largest al fresco markets in the country.
are stepping up to take centre stage. The Italian-American chef and tour guide
grew up just a stone’s throw from the market
FROM HISTORY TO HOAGIES and seems to remain on first-name terms with
Home to the second-largest Italian and Irish, almost everyone on the 10-block street.
and the fourth-largest African-American She guides me past ramshackle food
communities in the country, it’s no wonder stalls selling juicy oranges and football-
that the city’s cuisine has become something sized artichokes, all stacked in the shade
of a smorgasbord. Visitors to Philadelphia of a patchwork of corrugated iron and
can enjoy French fine dining at the beloved canvas awnings. As we duck into vintage
bistro Parc, browse stalls serving everything delicatessens to nibble on punchy chunks
from soul food to shawarmas at the historic of artisan cheese and plump Sicilian olives,
Reading Terminal Market, sample street Jacqueline explains that the neighbourhood
IMAGES: AWL IMAGES; ZOEY GOTO

tacos at Casa Mexico and slurp fragrant gets its distinctive zest from three significant
noodle soup at Vietnam — the latter both low- waves of immigration; southern Italians at
key eateries recently crowned James Beard the end of the 19th century, Vietnamese in
Foundation Award winners. the 1970s and Mexicans in the 1990s.
I bid Mijuel farewell, craving a taste of These diasporas have created some
From top: Murals can be found across
the city’s legendary foodscape for myself. unexpected fusions, Jacqueline tells me. Philadelphia; serving up a hoagie
Meandering a couple of blocks southwards, This becomes immediately clear as we dip sandwich at Lupita’s Grocery in the
neighbourhoods of tree-lined boulevards into Lupita’s Grocery, a Mexican-owned Italian Market
 | PA I D C O N T E N T F O R V I S I T T H E U S A

convenience store. Like a charmingly A CULTURAL KALEIDOSCOPE

chaotic souk, the walls are stacked with The following day brings the opportunity
towers of crisp packets and household to take the city’s creative pulse. Considered
mops, while at the lunch counter, hulking one of the finest destinations for free public
slabs of meat compete for space with Latin art in the USA, Philadelphia is home to
American licuados (milk-based smoothies). countless sculptures and around 4,000
We order monstrously large hoagies — a vibrant murals, with colourful sweeps of
traditional Italian-American sandwich that the city operating much like an outdoor
can trace its roots to the early immigrants gallery. On a walk towards the South Street THREE MORE
that worked the nearby shipyards. It’s made neighbourhood, I pass artworks including CITY TOURS
by piling a bread roll high with finely sliced Robert Indiana’s iconic Love sculpture,
meat, cheese and salad. As we navigate each Claes Oldenburg’s supersized Clothespin
protein-packed bite, a spirited soundtrack of
Mexican ranchera music pumps through the
sculpture and a dazzling mural of the Fresh
Prince of Bel-Air himself, West Philadelphia
1 FOR CINEMA
LOVER S
The popular Yo, Philly!
store’s speakers. born-and-raised Will Smith. Rocky Film Tour is led
“Many Mexican immigrants started as It’s early on a Sunday, but Philadelphia’s by heavyweight guide
dishwashers in the Italian restaurants here South Street district, spanning roughly 14 Mike Kunda, the city’s
and worked their way up to become chefs. The blocks, is already limbering up for the day. most devoted Rocky
outcome has been a crossover in the dishes, I wander past beatnik coffee houses bustling impersonator. The three-
with restaurants like Franco Fusion serving with dog-owning locals, hole-in-the-wall hour tour takes in various
tacos with Italian fillings, or Italian pasta pizza joints and a labyrinth of secondhand filming highlights and has
stuffed with spicy Mexican ingredients,” clothing emporiums stuffed with quirky even been endorsed by
Jacqueline says, as we head back out into the goods. My destination is the Magic Gardens, Sylvester Stallone himself.
sunshine. We pass windows where diners a former abandoned lot that’s been theyophillyfilmtour.com
slurp steaming bowls of pho, before emerging reimagined as a folk-art masterpiece by
back onto the main street under a rainbow Isaiah Zagar, a local resident now in his 80s.
flutter of Mexican fiesta bunting. It’s a staggering sight to behold — every inch 2 FOR HISTORY
BUF F S
Take a deep dive into
Philadelphia’s storied past
as the birthplace of the
USA with this 75-minute
Constitutional Walking
Tour. Covering just over
a mile, the tour takes in
over 20 significant sites,
including the Liberty Bell
and Independence Hall.
theconstitutional.com

3 FOR A NEW
PERSPECTIVE
Built on the meeting
point of two large rivers,
the Schuylkill and the
Delaware, Philadelphia has
a rich maritime history.
See the bright lights of
the city from a different
angle with a one-hour
sunset cruise on the
Delaware River, sailing
under the magnificent
Ben Franklin Bridge and
soaking up the city’s
industrial waterfronts.
phillybyboat.com
| PA I D C O N T E N T F O R V I S I T T H E U S A

of the treasure trove grotto and courtyard Vegas heyday. “This area has a long history
painstakingly adorned. The walls, floors of counterculture, from its roots as an
and maze-like tunnels are a kaleidoscope of immigrant Black and Jewish neighbourhood,
found curiosities, mosaics, bejewelled tiles to the Sixties, when the hippies settled and
and glinting mirrored shards. Isaiah has then the punk rockers,” Robert says, as he
lent his maximalist vision to several public slides the house special Philly cheesesteak
murals throughout the district, too, many across a Formica table towards me, ribbons
of which I pass while strolling towards the of glistening beef smothered under a gooey
Tattooed Mom dive bar to finally sample the blanket of hot, melting cheese.
one and only Philly cheesesteak. Despite evidence of gentrification, the
The more-is-more aesthetic continues district remains a haunt for folks of all
at this eclectic institution, where the walls stripes, he continues. “Today, South Street
are decked out in a riot of graffiti tags, is a place where people come to discover
stickers, memorabilia and painted artworks. their creative selves, to gather and exchange
From top left: PHS Philadelphia Flower
Owner of 26 years, Robert Perry greets me ideas,” he tells me, as across the room a Show, which pays tribute to the impact
at the bar, overlooked by twinkling fairy floral, Barbie-themed installation is being of flowers on our lives; Independence
lights and a kitschy bust of Elvis in his Las constructed to coincide with the annual Hall; a Philly cheesesteak sandwich
 | PA I D C O N T E N T F O R V I S I T T H E U S A

HOW TO MAKE
THE PHILLY
CHEESESTEAK

Ryan Pasquale, food

coordinator at Tattooed
Mom, shares his recipe

1 Chop a rib-eye steak

super fine. Add it to the
grill and let it get crispy;
it cooks quickly, so it only
needs about a minute
on the fire. Fry up some
chopped onions, too.

2 Add cheese on top

of the meat and mix
it in a little so it starts to
melt into the steak. Some
people add provolone
cheese but, in my opinion,
you can’t beat Cheese
Whizz [processed cheese
sauce]. It’s a creamy
Philadelphia classic.

3 Pile the meat and

cheese into the bread.
The bread makes this
dish. We have lots of great
bakeries in the city, so
getting hold of a soft Philly
steak roll is easy, but if
you’re cooking at home, a
baguette works fine, too.

4 Serve peppers as
an optional side. I’ll
never understand people
who mix peppers into the
meat. That’s one thing
you should never do.

Philadelphia Flower Show, a 195-year-old play out, but I have one final menu to enjoy,
horticultural celebration that sees the city at Wilder, near Rittenhouse Square. This
set abloom in spring. laid-back neighbourhood hotspot was
I press on towards the revered Philadelphia opened by a chef and artist couple, who PLAN YOUR TRIP
Museum of Art, where — despite galleries transformed a bygone dance studio into a
packed with globe-trotting artworks from cosy three-floor bar and restaurant. Inside, Fly direct to Philadelphia from
the likes of van Gogh, Picasso and Duchamp I join locals perched on leopard-print stools Heathrow, Manchester or
— the real action is underway outside. at the candle-lit bar, shucking oysters and Edinburgh. In the city, the
IMAGES: ALAMY; GETTY; STOCKFOOD

A busker on a saxophone has struck up a feasting on unexpected dishes such as Philly PHLASH Downtown Loop
rousing rendition of Gonna Fly Now, the savoury cannoli — a sweet potato shell filled connects many main attractions.
theme tune from the film Rocky, as tourists with salmon and lashings of creme fraiche. For more information, go to
puff their way up the 72 famous steps to Heading home, I pass a towering statue visittheusa.com
the museum. They stop at the top for a of Pennsylvania’s founder, William Penn,
champion’s photo call, poses mirroring the looking down at this buzzy metropolis from
bronze statue of Balboa below. atop City Hall. Philadelphia may have its roots
It would be easy to while away a warm in the nation’s past, but right now, it’s the city’s
spring afternoon watching this street theatre bright future that’s holding the attention.
 CITY LIFE

BARC ELONA
Venture down labyrinthine streets in the Catalan capital to discover a world
of secret bars, where creative cocktails and traditional tapas are treated with
such passion, they’re practically an art form

WORDS: DUNCAN CR AIG. PHOTOGR APHS: M ARGARET STEPIEN

Along the Passeig de Gràcia the tour groups long-pouring, mixing, performing. A row of
flow, guidebooks in hand, smartphone appreciative customers sits at the polished,
cameras poised. The masters of modernista spot-lit bar, entranced.
architecture crafted some of their greatest Nearly a dozen customised cocktails are on
works on this elegant, tree-lined thoroughfare, offer. Dressed in a smart khaki apron, with a
which a century and a half ago led Barcelona powerful build and piratical beard, Ignacio
from its congested medieval core into a new asks me for a “frame of reference” before
era of space, order and creativity. guiding me towards the white truffle pisco
Antoni Gaudí’s wonderfully elaborate Casa sour: a richly aromatic, creamy-yet-sweet blend
Batlló, with its iridescent glass-mosaic facade, of pisco quebranta, lemon juice, white truffle
and sprawling, limestone-hewn Casa Milà honey, Amargo Chuncho bitters and white
are two of the biggest prizes. The properties chocolate served in a broad, stemmed glass.
stand out, as indeed they were intended to, Opened in March 2018, The Alchemix
commissioned by wealthy families in fits of had a turbulent birth. Provoked by Madrid’s
early 20th-century one-upmanship. rejection of the result of the Catalonia
I’m in this affluent corner of the Eixample secession referendum, pro-independence
neighbourhood in search of artistry of a activists were in an incendiary mood.
different sort. Away from the hedonism of “Bins and cars were set alight. I remember
some of its more downmarket spots, Barcelona opening at 7.30pm and having to close almost
takes its bar culture very seriously indeed. immediately,” recalls Ignacio. He won’t be
With its strident innovation, non-conformity drawn on the question of independence, but
and profusion of detail, it could be said to be clearly enjoys that of his bar; it’s set apart,
keeping the spirit of modernisme alive. But under-the-radar, easy to walk past. Visits, he
there’s a crucial difference: this is a world that says, are “intentional” — and that certainly
prizes the clandestine over the conspicuous. needs to be the case with my next target.
Three blocks west of Passeig de Gràcia, When Catalan visionary Ildefons Cerdà
hidden by day behind a graffitied steel drew up his masterplan for the grid-based
shutter and on a bland residential street, is district of Eixample (literally ‘Expansion’) in
The Alchemix. The last rays of sunlight are the mid-19th century, he devised an ingenious
filtering through the silver maples outside as way to increase the visibility and sense of
I arrive, and there’s already a small queue of space at street level: he cleaved off the corners
people. They’re smartly dressed, patient, as if of all the blocks, so they become octagonal
waiting outside a theatre. In a sense they are. rather than square. It’s adjacent to one of these
Inside, owner Ignacio Ussía and his ‘chamfers’, tucked behind Passeig de Gràcia,
Estonian barman Erik Bagmet are concocting that you’ll find another of the city’s best bars
elaborate creations: spinning cocktail shakers, — or worst barbers, depending on your intent.

J U L /AU G 2 0 24 143
B A RC E LO N A

Entering Bobby’s Free, I’m ushered into a true of the wider city. “It’s all a question of INSIDER TIPS
thick leather barber’s chair and spun round good vibes.”
to face the mirror. Clippers, combs, shaving Many of Barcelona’s top hotels
brushes and other props line the counter. I N TO T H E L A BY R I N T H have roof-terrace bars — and these
The glint in the flat-capped hairdresser’s eye Allow gravity to coax you down towards the are often open to non-residents,
is the only sign that something might be afoot. city’s coastal fringe and the order of New even if the pools aren’t. Arrive early
He raises his eyebrows expectantly. Barcelona quickly gives way to the agreeable to bag a table or cabana as not all
“Godfather,” I say, a touch hopefully. He tumult of the Ciutat Vella, or old town. Here offer pre-booking.
nods his approval at the password, which I’d in the labyrinthine streets of Barri Gòtic
wrangled from my hotel concierge earlier, (the Gothic Quarter) and El Born, it’s not just It’s good to pace yourself: nights
and reaches forward to activate a switch. The light but progress that can be kept at bay. are long, exuberant and convivial.
entire mirrored unit — draws, counter and all Dating from 1945, La Plata is a tiny corner Should you be in need of a time-
— swings open, and I step into the 1930s. bar tucked just out of sight on the seaward out, most nightspots offer virgin
A century ago, speakeasies emerged in edge of Barri Gòtic. Its hand-painted sign, cocktails every bit as complex
response to the vice-like grip of Prohibition in silver on blue like a flash of mackerel in the and considered as their alcohol-
America, with both bar owners and patrons shallows, contrasts with the weathered infused variants.
living in constant fear of detection. Today, Montserrat stone of the building’s thick-set
the danger is long gone but the frisson walls. Ornate blue tiles frame a broad L-shaped Keep the drawn-out sit-down
of the illicit lingers. This ‘underground’ bar where Pepe Gómez is orchestrating dinners for home: ‘eat, drink and
establishment is precisely that: a short flight proceedings — as he has for 52 of his 67 years. move’ is the spirit of Barcelona
of steps leading down to a low-lit bar that’s I arrive soon after opening to grab one of nightlife, with tapas to the fore.
absolutely bouncing. the handful of tables. La Plata is the antidote The neighbourhood of Poble-sec,
Staff in red braces and trilbies glide between to a choice-saturated world: just four simple on the sloping streets beneath
tables, delivering G&Ts and customised tapas on the unchanging menu, breaded and Montjuïc, is a great introduction to
cocktails, one of which is served, with splendid fried whitebait (pescaditos) and Catalan-style this peripatetic carousing.
illogicality, in a portable safe. Ray Charles and butifarra sausage among them. Red, white and
his Wurlitzer electric piano ooze from hidden rosé are served in small tumblers from a trio Sad to say, but this remains a city
speakers. A young man with a can’t-believe- of barrels fixed behind the bar. Nothing costs with a black belt in pickpocketing.
I’ve-found-this-place smile slaps along on his more than a few euros. Stay one step ahead by keeping
thigh, too caught up in the moment to worry As he serves a regular ensconced with her valuables out of sight and not
about anything as trivial as rhythm. tiny dog in a favourite spot at the bar, Pepe walking around alone after dark.
Behind the bar, Sofia D’Agnano is mixing reviews the decades for me. In the 1970s and
up a storm. A photographer by day, the young 1980s, the bar catered mostly to locals, but
Italian is in her element, feeding off the energy after the Olympics in 1992 — as with the wider
in the room and creating plenty of her own. city — visitors took on a more international
Clockwise from top left: City views
As the music ramps up, a fellow bartender flavour. Demand has never abated. “I think it’s
from the Gaudí House Museum in Park
charges the length of the bar, pushing each the simplicity people love,” he says. “As we say,
Güell; a shop selling lavender behind
of its domed, pendulous lights, which strafe it’s a bar de toda la vida [for life]. Unchanging,
the cathedral; silent killer bourbon
the room with milky light. All the illuminated traditional.” cocktails at The Alchemix bar; the Pont
faces are beaming. That’s certainly not a charge that could ever del Bisbe in the Gothic Quarter
Shouting to be heard over the music, Sofia be levelled at Paradiso, a few hundred yards Previous pages: Modernista facades on
explains that what she loves about the bar is away on the periphery of El Born. Since it Casa Amatller and Casa Batlló

14 4 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
J U L /AU G 2 0 24 145
‘To travel across Spain and finally
to reach Barcelona is like drinking a
respectable red wine and finishing up
with a bottle of Champagne’
American author James A Michener

146 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
 B A RC E LO N A

Dr Stravinsky is a cocktails-
only bar on the streets of
El Born that takes an almost
laboratory-like approach

J U L /AU G 2 0 24 147
148 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
 B A RC E LO N A

Q&A with Isabella

Paparella, concierge
at Barcelona’s Grand
Hotel Central

H OW H A S T H E C I T Y ’ S
BAR SCENE CHANGED?
There’s a real focus on quality
as much as quantity these
opened in 2015, the speakeasy masquerading For centuries this quarter was the engine days. Bars are getting more
as a pastrami deli has bagged the world’s best room of the city, home to a melee of artisans, creative: with the cocktails,
bar accolade, staged pop-ups around the world craftsmen and workshops. Lanes assumed the the speakeasy concepts, the
and spawned an outpost in Dubai. name of the craft or industry concentrated locations and tasting menus.
Never mind the paradox of a secret bar that’s there; hence Carrer dels Mirallers — street There’s an emphasis on
globally renowned; befitting its surreptitious of mirrors — where I make my final and doing things differently.
portal — an enormous fridge door adjacent to best discovery.
the deli counter — it’s still effortlessly cool, Dr Stravinsky sits inconspicuously on a W H AT S U R P R I S E S
with a honey-hued, grooved-wood interior dimly lit corner, with an arched window and V I S I TO R S MO S T
and a stylish crowd enjoying a soundtrack of dark wooden doors. Enter into the high- A B O U T B A RC E LO N A’ S
smooth beats. ceilinged burgundy-and-green space and NIGHTLIFE?
Andrea Freddi — Clark Kent glasses; you might fancy you’ve happened upon a The prices. Even in the most
leopards stalking the exotic rainforest scene laboratory or a cabinet of curiosities. exclusive bars a glass of
on his Paradiso bartender’s uniform — talks Hundreds of unmarked bottles and glass wine or cocktail is usually
me through the menu. The concepts are a jars, beakers and cylinders line the shelves pretty reasonable. The other
tad nebulous (“Marco Polo — inspired by the of the bar’s three levels. Mirrors, mottled surprise is the number of
compass”) but the Great Gatsby, Paradiso’s and distorting, add a flavour of the surreal. great rooftop bars. I have to
answer to the old fashioned, is sublime: Aproned and smiling, Rita Allué guides me mention ours, La Terraza del
12-year-aged Macallan whisky, white truffle to the bar and then in the direction of a fatty Central, but I also like the one
honey, amaro, lavender essence, scented with paloma, a smoky and citrussy blend of mezcal, at Hotel Pulitzer, known for
vanilla and chocolate tobacco — delivered Cajun syrup, Padrón peppers and homemade its DJs and live music.
with fanfare from beneath a smoking domed grapefruit soda.
cloche, like the birth of a superhero. Eighty-five per cent of the ingredients W H AT ’ S T H E B E S T A R E A
Once settled in, I ask about the inner bar. and spirits used in the bar are homemade. FOR A NIGHT OUT?
There are a few exchanges and then the head Branded bottles are outlawed. Only cocktails If you’re looking for a lot of
bartender, Federico Lombardi, smiles and are served. If you want a beer or wine, some energy, with people spilling
says, “Come with me”. Past the loos, turning 1,400 other Barcelona bars await, thank you off the beach and heading
right at the kitchen and into a tiny storeroom very much. out, then the port area. Over
we go. “Ready?” Federico performs some “You come here for the full cocktail in Upper Diagonal, Carrer
sleight of hand on the basin and a secret door experience,” explains manager Cesar Montilla. de Tuset attracts a smart
springs open. Dressed in a dark shirt with a neat red tie, local crowd. I also love the
If Paradiso’s main bar evokes the inside of a and his moustache twirled into Dalí-esque tiny, atmospheric streets of
whisky barrel, then this inner sanctum is more points, Cesar is never happier than when El Born and the neighbouring
copper still, with candlelight reflecting off the chatting maturation, maceration and Gothic Quarter where it’s
low, amber-metallic ceiling. There’s barely distillation, or debating micro-adjustments easy to stumble across a
room for a dozen people and access is both to his latest creations. great bar almost by mistake.
discretionary and sought-after; when Mick “It’s all about chasing perfection,” he says
Jagger was in town, Federico tells me proudly, earnestly. An art form? “Totally.”
this was where he ended up. He’s delighted that I’ve chanced upon
Time for one more? In Barcelona, always. the bar as I’ve strolled through the
Clockwise from top left: Ganiveteria
Exiting Paradiso, I allow myself to be drawn neighbourhood. “I always say we’re hiding Roca hardware shop, founded in 1911;
back into the web of El Born, where suddenly but also not hiding,” he says. “Some people Nobu Hotel’s rooftop pool; Pepe
every flaking door is infused with the tap-and- walk by, some discover us. We’re a treasure in Gómez has worked at La Plata since
whisper possibility of a speakeasy. Barcelona’s labyrinth.” 1972; montaditos at Quimet & Quimet

J U L /AU G 2 0 24 149
 “My pulse quickened as
I remained motionless,
suppressing the impulse to
dash and hide behind a nearby
tree. The enormous gorilla
examined me with an intense
gaze for a long moment before
calmly turning to survey the
other newcomers. Suddenly,
as if following an unspoken
signal, numerous gorillas
emerged from the foliage,
surrounding us on every side.”
Hide & Seek traveller,
Catherine W,
reflecting on her
gorilla trek.

JOURNEY BEYOND THE ORDINARY

Every journey with Hide & Seek Travel is crafted to turn your travel dreams
into vivid realities. Whether it’s witnessing the majesty of gorillas in their
natural habitat, experiencing the thrill of an African safari or unwinding on a
pristine tropical beach, we ensure every detail exceeds your expectations.

Are you ready to step into the extraordinary?

www.hideandseek.travel | [email protected] | 028 9024 6560

WILDLIFE ENCOUNTERS CULTUR AL IMMERSIONS

FAMILY DISCOVERIES E XCLUSIVE RE TRE AT S HIDDEN GEMS
 B A RC E LO N A

Above from left: The Temple Expiatori 14 HOURS IN

del Sagrat Cor church atop Tibidabo;
Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya Barcelona
8A M 1 2 . 3 0 PM
H I K E U P MO U N T T I B I DA B O D R I N K S A N D A B I T E BY T H E P O O L
On the ungroomed slopes of the nearby So galvanising was the 1992 Olympics for the
Pyrenees, skiers talk of earning their turns; in city, you’ll still hear it spoken of fondly to
Barcelona the same might be true of cocktails. this day. The seminal images of the games
Blow the cobwebs off the previous night’s were divers twisting and piking high above
indulgence, and set yourself up for another the skyline from the purpose-built facilities
day of the same, with an invigorating, hour- on Montjuïc. The site has morphed into
long hike along the trails threaded through the an informal open-air bar with a loyal local
foothills of Mount Tibidabo, which overlooks following. Grab a sangria or Aperol spritz,
the city. Your target is the summit church, set, order a walnut and goat’s cheese salad or
incongruously, amid a retro funfair. Depart on jamón ibérico sandwich and take your place in
the trail that starts at the Tibidabo Funicular the banked seats from which the crowds once
base station, then ride the train back to your cheered. The two pools below open during the
starting point. tibidabo.cat summer. saltsmontjuic.com picornell.cat
‘Allow me to state
here how much I 1 0A M 3 PM
love Barcelona, an A M O O C H I N T H E A RT M U S E U M D I V E I N TO T H E G OT H I C Q UA RT E R
With its hillside perch on the flanks of Montjuïc Fanning out from the 13th-century Catedral de
admirable city, a city hill, grand sweep of steps, and domes and Barcelona and corralled by the thoroughfares
full of life, intense, towers inspired by St Peter’s in the Vatican of La Rambla and Via Laietana, the Barri Gòtic
and the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela, is an endlessly browsable maze of artisan
a port open to the the Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya isn’t shops, craft boutiques and indie clothing
past and future’ exactly a model of restraint. That exuberance stores. Narrow lanes and high footfall rule out
extends to a collection of (mostly Catalan) anything more rushed than museum pace.
Architect Charles- art as dazzling as an Iberian sunset. Fortify Search out Sombrerería Obach, a century-old,
Édouard Jeanneret, yourself with a tallat (espresso with a splash family-run hat shop specialising in fedoras
of steamed milk) in the cafe tucked in one and traditional Catalan barretinas; and, of
better known as corner of its vast Sala Oval banqueting space. 1941 vintage, Granja Dulcinea chocolate shop.
Le Corbusier museunacional.cat sombrereriaobach.com granjadulcinea.com

J U L /AU G 2 0 24 151
B A RC E LO N A

Left: Quimet & Quimet has been

serving tapas in Poble-sec since 1914

The Alchemix 500 yards

Bobby’s Free

Eixample Parc de la
Ciutadella
El Born
Dr Stravinsky
Paradiso
Barri Gòtic

La Plata
Playa de la
B A R C E L O N A Barceloneta

FRANCE

Barcelona
Museu Nacional
d’Art de Catalunya SPAIN Balearic
Sea
MADRID

MEDITERRANEAN
Montjuïc SEA
500 yards
ALGERIA

GETTING THERE & AROUND

Airlines including Vueling fly direct to
Barcelona from a host of UK airports
including Heathrow and Manchester,
with nearly 100 flights a week.
vueling.com
Average flight time: 2h10m.
Barcelona is a supremely walkable
city thanks to its mild climate, shady
streets and abundance of landmarks.
The Barcelona Metro is clean, punctual
and air-conditioned — and you can
enjoy unlimited travel on this and the
city’s buses and trams with a Hola
Barcelona Travel Card (48h, €17.50/£15).
Alternatively, taxis are plentiful and
affordable. holabarcelona.com

WHEN TO GO
The height of summer is marred by
crowds, humidity and higher prices.
4 PM 7 PM The rest of the year, particularly spring
C O F F E E I N P L AÇ A N E R I TA PA S AT Q U I M E T & Q U I M E T and autumn when sunshine is plentiful
If the frenzy gets too much, retreat to Plaça Behind triple-height crimson doors on a quiet and temperatures routinely reach
de Sant Felip Neri. It’s an atmospheric little lane a short walk from the centre of the lively 22C, is extremely pleasant. Consider a
square (more of a trapezoid, in fact), with neighbourhood of Poble-sec, this is the city’s winter visit, too; nights can get chilly
a central fountain sheltered by a towering most sought-after tapas bar. It’s standing- but clear skies and 12–15C in December
rosewood, and an eponymous church whose room only in a high-ceilinged room decorated make for a spirit-lifting getaway.
facade is pockmarked by blast damage from wall-to-wall with wine and vermouth bottles.
the Fascist bombing raids of the 1930s. Dip The faux bickering between sixth-generation WHERE TO STAY
into the thick-stoned cool of the Hotel Neri, brother and sister Quimet and Neus is a Nobu Hotel Barcelona, Eixample
order a coffee and ask to take it on the compact delight, as are the heaped montaditos (open neighbourhood. Doubles from €224
roof terrace among the terracotta pots and sandwiches); salmon, yoghurt and honey is the (£192). barcelona.nobuhotels.com
banana plants. hotelneri.com pick. quimetiquimet.com Hotel Praktik Bakery, Eixample
neighbourhood. Doubles from €110
5 PM 9. 3 0 PM (£94). hotelpraktikbakery.com
H I T T H E B E AC H C O C K TA I L S AT T H E N O B U
It may not feel like it when you’re deep in Nul points for nominative inspiration, but MORE INFO
the Gothic Quarter but one of Europe’s great Rooftop — set on the 24th floor of the Nobu visitbarcelona.com spain.info
urban seafronts is just a gargoyle’s spit away. Hotel in western Eixample — can lay claim Rough Guide to Barcelona. £16.99
Early evening it’s at its best, as the sun retreats to being the city’s loftiest bar. It’s possibly its
behind Montjuïc and beachgoers disperse. coolest, too, with soft-lit, low-slung tables, HOW TO DO IT
ILLUSTRATION: JOHN PLUMER

It’s a stroll of a little over a mile along the four-poster day-beds and panoramic views Inspiring Travel offers two nights at
expansive promenade from the sail-shaped stretching from mountain to Med. A signature Nobu Hotel Barcelona from £999 per
W Hotel at one end to Frank Gehry’s 115ft-high, jalapeño and ginger martini is the best way to person, with private transfers, dinner in
iridescent Peix (fish) sculpture at the other. round off your day. Check in to one of the hotel’s the Nobu restaurant, accommodation
The route traces the full expanse of Playa de 259 elegant rooms and suites, and you can in a deluxe skyline room and return
la Barceloneta, which is studded with wood- return the following morning for a wallow in flights from Gatwick included.
framed chiringuito beach bars. that inviting pool. barcelona.nobuhotels.com inspiringtravel.co.uk

152 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
Polar Discovery: South Georgia Island
& the Antarctic Peninsula
Journey to a landscape of extremes where immense icebergs sculpt the horizon and
seals, penguins, and whales feed in the surrounding icy waters.

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| PA I D C O N T E N T F O R G O S T OW E

STOWE

Through the seasons

In the northeastern US state of Vermont, scenic Stowe is a snow-sports haven
in the winter, but the town flexes its artistic flair year-round. Words: Rachel Ng

U
nder a blanket of powdery snow, classic European brewing traditions with 1920s rack-and-cloth press squeeze juicy
Stowe is a natural playground Vermont hop culture. Sample the smooth, McIntosh apples into fresh (non-alcoholic)
for skiers, snowboarders and Munich-style Helles Brook lager or try a beer cider and sample the authentic beverage
snowshoers, and is affectionately flight featuring six different draft beers. In afterwards. Taste Cold Hollow’s seasonal
known as the ‘ski capital of the east’. Just the summer, grab a table by the Treehouse ‘hard ciders’ (alcoholic ciders), too, before
a 30-minute drive north of Vermont’s state Bar on the outdoor patio and pair the sudsy picking up a popular cider doughnut, made
capital, Montpelier, Stowe is favoured by brews with a giant Bavarian pretzel. with an old-school doughnut machine.
winter sports enthusiasts — but when the If you prefer beer with a side of art, check
season changes, the historic town undergoes out The Alchemist, a family-owned brewery VILLAGE STROLLS & SCENIC HIKES
a dramatic mood change. Its rugged hillsides that’s as creative with its craft beers as it is Take a stroll through Stowe’s enchanting
transform from a quilt of ivory to shades of with its aesthetics. Vibrant, eclectic murals downtown village, which is lined with
emerald in the spring and summer, before cover the walls, ceilings and silo of the whimsical boutiques, jewellery stores and
bursting into brilliant hues of yellow, brewery and the ‘beer cafe’, which serves the sweet shops, and marked by the quaint Stowe
gold, orange and red in autumn. From flagship hand-pulled Heady Topper double Community Church with its striking white
craft brewery tours and hiking to farmers’ IPA and bottled sour beers. Food is dished up steeple. To keep you fuelled as you wander,
markets and festivals, here are some of the from Warren’s Kitchen & Catering, a funky try the homemade oatmeal drizzled with
best things to do in Stowe in all seasons. food truck parked outside the brewery. Try Vermont maple syrup at Café on Main, a cosy
crowd favourites like the fried avocado tacos, spot inside the historic Old Depot building.
CREATIVE CRAFT BEERS & CIDERS and mac and cheese with pulled jerk pork. Just a short walk away, contemporary
With more craft breweries per capita than Apples may be synonyms with the ‘fall’ art centre The Current hosts a variety of
any other state, Vermont is a place of season, but visitors can take a self-guided exhibitions, lectures, fi lm screenings and
pilgrimage for beer connoisseurs. Head over tour of Cold Hollow Cider Mill year-round. workshops throughout the year.
to the rustic-chic, farmhouse-style bar at One of New England’s top cider producers, Beginning in downtown Stowe, the Stowe
Idletyme Brewing Company, where award- the mill continues to make pure apple cider Recreation Path is a scenic 5.3-mile trail that
winning brewmaster Will Gilson melds the old-fashioned way — watch a traditional connects the village to the green foothills
 | PA I D C O N T E N T F O R G O S T OW E

of Mount Mansfield, Vermont’s highest the diverse genre and all its sub-genres From top left: Stowe Community Church;
peak. Flanked by serene woods and lush — including swing, bebop, Brazilian jazz Stowe’s quaint downtown village is
perfect for strolling; the beer garden at
foliage, the path makes for an easy hike and Afro-Cuban jazz. Then in October, the
The Alchemist; the Trapp Family Lodge
— meandering through several parks, across town holds its three-day Stowe Foliage Arts
bridges over the trickling West Branch River, Festival, featuring more than 150 artists and
and past a swimming hole, a corn maze, artisans displaying their artwork and crafts. PLAN YOUR TRIP
farms and restaurants. Further up Mount Stowe’s events list doesn’t stop there
Mansfield, Smuggler’s Notch State Park is — the Trapp Family Lodge also hosts a series Fly to Vermont’s largest city,
the starting point for several hiking trails of festivals and events that are open to the Burlington, from major UK
such as the challenging Hellbrook Trail. public, including Oktoberfest celebrations, airports, with an average flight
outdoor summer concerts, trail running time of about 11 hours including
UPBEAT EVENTS & FESTIVALS races, holiday brunches and fondue nights. layovers. Stowe is then around
Throughout the year, Stowe plays host to The musically gifted von Trapp family a 45-minute drive east from
a diverse range of exciting events. Every (the inspiration for the film The Sound of Burlington International
Sunday from May to October, the Stowe Music) settled in Stowe in the 1940s, where Airport. There are also shuttle,
Farmers Market bustles with local and the mountain vistas reminded them of ride-share and taxi services
regional vendors selling fresh fruit and their home in Austria. Amid 2,600 acres that depart from the airport to
vegetables, meat and cheese, bread and of rolling hills, the family have welcomed Stowe. For more information,
pastries, pickles and preserves, as well visitors to their grand alpine estate since visit gostowe.com
as flowers, crafts and more. A jubilant 1950. Trapp Family Lodge also has an on-
IMAGES: GO STOWE

Fourth of July parade marks the national site brewery specialising in Austrian-style
day each year, along with festivities beer — tour the facility before settling down
and entertainment. In August, music at the adjacent von Trapp Brewing Bierhall
enthusiasts gather for the Stowe Jazz restaurant for a hearty meal of chicken
Festival, a free, three-day event celebrating schnitzel or bratwurst.

T H I S I S PA I D C O N T E N T. I T D O E S N OT N E C E S S A R I LY R E F L E C T T H E V I E W S O F N AT I O N A L G E O G R A P H I C ,
N AT I O N A L G E O G R A P H I C T R AV E L L E R ( U K ) O R T H E I R E D I TO R I A L S TA F F S .
 CITY LIFE

HA MBURG
Historically unorthodox and staunchly independent, north
Germany’s water-sculpted merchant city is investing in
regeneration projects to give old spaces new life

WORDS: OLIVER SMITH

P H O T O G R A P H Y: C H R I S T I A N K E R B E R

156 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
Berlin wields the power, Munich has the traditions and these days on nights out. The motif of the sea recurs in
Frankfurt banks the money. Yet Hamburg is Germany’s truly Hamburg’s architecture, from office blocks shaped like
global city — the place where the River Elbe opens out into ships’ prows to the Elbphilharmonie, which was built in
the waters of the North Sea, and where the Bundesrepublik 2017 and is perhaps Europe’s most extraordinary concert
opens its heart to the world. Saltwater runs in the blood hall, its roof contoured like rolling swells. The profits of
here: for centuries Hamburg was a stridently independent ocean-going trade have helped make Hamburg rich since
city state and free port — a kind of European Singapore, the 12th century; its skyline is marked by some of Europe’s
on whose docks sailors and goods from distant continents tallest and most opulent churches, their spires collectively
mingled. You can understand this clearly by looking at a resembling the masts of a flotilla.
map — the city today is defined less by its grid of tarmac But above all, the tides of the sea — and tides of
streets and squares, and more by its labyrinth of shipping incomers — have shaped Hamburg’s identity, creating a
channels, quays and lakes. Its moniker of the ‘Gateway to place that’s liberal, open-minded and unpretentious. You
the World’ endures — armadas of container ships still dock sense this watching a game at FC St Pauli — Germany’s
here; forests of cranes still fidget along the wharfs. most left-wing leaning football club — whose piratical
At ground level, too, ordinary visitors can witness how fans sail through the seasons under a flag with a skull
saltwater has shaped the city. At the centre of Hamburg and crossbones. You can understand it with a mouthful
are the UNESCO-listed warehouses of the Speicherstadt of fischbrötchen — the utilitarian fish sandwich that’s
district — where merchandise from coffee to carpets was Hamburg’s civic delicacy, usually sold at a profoundly
unloaded in the 19th and 20th centuries, and restaurants democratic price of under €5 (£4.30). And you can feel it
and cafes now also ply their trade in the 21st. You can standing on one of the city’s many bridges, watching the
tour the nightclubs of Hamburg’s legendary thoroughfare tide ebb and flow through Hamburg. The water is a perfect
the Reeperbahn, where shore-sick sailors once came for metaphor for the city it laps against: restless, dynamic and
salty adventures — though landlubbers outnumber them forever on the move.

J U L /AU G 2 0 24 15 7
H A M B U RG

Free spirit Hamburg’s

official name is the
‘Free and Hanseatic
City of Hamburg’
— reflecting its
membership of the
Hanseatic League:
a network of ports
across the Baltic that
existed from the 12th
to the 17th centuries.
The league hasn’t been
around for about 400
years — but the name
has stuck all the same

Clockwise from left: The futuristic exterior

of Hamburg’s Elbphilharmonie concert
hall; a cafe by the pier at Outer Alster
lake; the Speicherstadt UNESCO-listed
warehouse district; Miniatur Wunderland,
a star Hamburg attraction; the rich interior
of Kunsthalle art gallery
Previous pages: Outer Alster bridge

SEE & DO C H I L E H AU S : Hamburg is renowned for its E L B P H I L H A R M O N I E : This staggering

M I N I AT U R W U N D E R L A N D : Hamburg is a bold architecture, the greatest example of concert hall opened in 2017 having
city built on a vast scale, but its most popular which is the Chilehaus — a 1920s expressionist controversially gone many times over budget
tourist attraction is, by contrast, built on a office block commissioned by a shipping — since then, it’s done much to redeem itself
very small one. Miniatur Wunderland is the magnate who amassed a fortune in Chile, in the eyes of ‘burghers’, and now, like its
world’s largest model railway — inside you hence the name. Admiring crowds come equivalent in Sydney, it’s become the city’s
can find tiny renderings of everything from to stand inside its courtyard, to look at the most identifiable landmark. There’s a rich
Rome to the Rio Carnival. Naturally, a mini carvings that bedeck the facade and to gaze programme of classical music, but equally
Hamburg is given pride of place at the centre. up at its eastern end, which looks like a ship’s beguiling is the structure itself. Ride the
miniatur-wunderland.com prow. chilehaus.de escalator to the foyer to admire the hypnotic,
K U N S T H A L L E : The city’s heavyweight B U N K E R S T PAU L I : One of the most organic forms designed by Swiss architects
art gallery is set over a series of strikingly interesting developments in Hamburg is this Herzog & de Meuron. elbphilharmonie.de
different buildings — from a grand Second World War-era anti-aircraft tower, a S T PAU L I P I E R S : Stately copper-domed
temple-like structure to a space-age cube. giant concrete eyesore rising tall over the west port buildings rise over bobbing jetties at
The permanent collection covers everything of the city. It’s now getting an architectural this peerless Hamburg attraction, where
from the Renaissance to the postmodern, revamp — slated to open this summer — as a crowds come to spectate on the ferries and
but many flock here to see one specific piece: hotel, gig venue, memorial and public space. sightseeing boats putter along the Elbe. This
the collection’s famous work titled Wanderer Curious visitors will be able to make for the spot is also home to the 1911-built Elbe Tunnel
above the Sea of Fog, by German Romantic viewing deck where gun batteries once stood, — pedestrians can tread a narrow subsea
painter Caspar David Friedrich. and enjoy a beer or coffee while gazing out at passageway, with ocean-going ships sailing
hamburger-kunsthalle.de the Hamburg skyline. bunker-stpauli.de directly over their heads. hamburg.com

158 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
A beefy enigma
Although it’s often said
the fast-food hamburger
derives its name from the
German port, no one is quite
certain how Americans
came to apply the word to a
beef patty between bread;
citizens of Hamburg much
prefer a fish sarnie

160 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
 H A M B U RG

Walther Eisenberg
handcrafts skipper caps
Clockwise from right: Labskaus,
a hearty dish of cured beef
brisket with sour fried herring
at Hobenköök restaurant;
Hobenköök’s industrial-
looking interior

BUY E AT SLEEP
WA LT H E R E I S E N B E RG D E R £ B R Ü C K E 1 0 : Superior specimens of £ P YJA M A PA R K R E E P E R B A H N : Part of a
M Ü T Z E N M AC H E R : Set midway between Hamburg’s city dish, fischbrötchen, are served small family of hostel-cum-hotels in Hamburg,
Hamburg’s main station and the town hall, at Brücke 10 — a restaurant on the floating this spirited establishment has both double
this independent hatmaker is one of the city’s pontoons of St Pauli Piers. It’s essentially rooms and dorms decorated with colourful
most intriguing shops, with headgear for all fish served in a bun, often with onions and artworks — including nods to the Beatles
occasions. Most dapper are the nautical hats, gherkins, but here the sandwiches take myriad who first honed their skills as a band playing
tailored for real ship’s captains (and probably forms — pollock schnitzel, Bismarck herring, nightclubs nearby. The dorm-room ladders to
some pretend ones, too). muetzenmacher.de and crab are among the classics. bruecke10.com upper bunks can be quite a challenge after a
B O U T I Q U E B I Z A R R E : Set on the notorious £ £ K L E I N E PAU S E : Of the many imbiss night out on the Reeperbahn. pyjama-park.de
Reeperbahn, Europe’s largest adult store has — traditional German fast-food restaurants £ £ MOT E L O N E F L E E T I N S E L : This hotel
been a Hamburg institution for nigh on 35 — that stand on the street corners of the St scores highly for its location — perched on
years. Its inventory includes whips, chains and Pauli district, Kleine Pause is perhaps the most a sliver of land between two canals, a two-
various other items whose function are not fit characterful. It has charmingly retro West minute stroll from the harbour. Compact,
for print. instagram.com/boutiquebizarrehh German-style interiors and an array of wursts comfy rooms have Juliet balconies — lean
F E L I X J U D & C O : This handsome bookshop to choose from, but the classic imbiss option is out and you might spot the Elbphilharmonie
has been in business for a century. It was an extra spicy currywurst. kleine-pause.de rising over the cherry trees outside.
founded by anti-Nazi activist Felix Jud, £ £ £ H O B E N KÖ Ö K : Set in an old motel-one.com
who survived the concentration camps and warehouse, Hobenköök translates as ‘harbour £ £ £ R E I C H S H O F : In operation on and off
returned to rebuild his business after the war. restaurant’ — though there’s more to it than since 1910, this splendid pile opposite Hamburg
Inside you’ll find first editions and second- the name suggests, with a food market and Hauptbahnhof station was once Germany’s
hand volumes — also somewhat splendid is sometime gig venue also part of the set-up. biggest hotel. It remains one of the most
the historic arcade in which it stands, with Artfully constructed dishes include local opulent, with marble columns and chandeliers
art nouveau-style frescoes gilding the ceiling. specialities — dive into labskaus: a hearty beef in the lobby, and a handsome wood-panelled
felix-jud.de broth that’s a North Sea staple. hobenkoeoek.de dining room. reichshof-hotel-hamburg.de

J U L /AU G 2 0 24 161
H A M B U RG

500 yards
North DENMARK
Sea

Hamburg

POLAND
THE
NETHER Outer
-LANDS BERLIN
Alster
GERMANY
Lake

Bunker St Pauli
Kunsthalle
S t Pa u li
HAMBURG
Ne u st a dt
ah n A lt s tad t
Re ep erb
Chilehaus

Riv Speicherstadt
er Miniatur Wunderland
El
be
Elbphilharmonie

GETTING THERE & AROUND

British Airways, EasyJet, Eurowings
and Ryanair fly daily from UK airports
such as Edinburgh, Gatwick, Heathrow,
Manchester and Stansted. It’s a
half-hour train ride from the airport
into the centre. ba.com easyjet.com
eurowings.com ryanair.com
Average flight time: 1h30m.
It’s also possible to travel from
London St Pancras International to
Hamburg by rail, leaving London
after breakfast and arriving at your
destination in time for dinner. You’ll
need to change at Brussels Midi/Zuid
and then at Cologne Hauptbahnhof,
which is also a good spot for lunch.
eurostar.com
Hamburg’s city centre is fairly compact
and easily navigated on foot — if you’re

Anleger 1870, one of the going further, the good-value Hamburg

bars near the Mundsburger CARD entitles you to unlimited journeys
Canal on the Alster on buses, U-bahn (underground),
S-bahn (tram) services and ferries
on the Elbe for €11.90 (£10.20) a day.
hamburg.com
Hamburg has a comprehensive
network of cycle lanes — to use the
AFTER HOURS L I K E A LO C A L StadtRAD cycle scheme, download the
G A S T S TÄT T E D R E Y E R : A sometime setting O U T E R A L S T E R L A K E : At weekends, locals app. Bike hire charges are capped at €9
for a German TV detective show called beeline to the willow-draped shores of this (£7.75) per day. stadtrad.hamburg.de
Großstadtrevier, this smoky and eccentric watery expanse at the heart of the city. Some
neighbourhood pub in the Neustadt district idle in deckchairs, others cast off in canoes WHEN TO GO
offers a delicious slice of Old Hamburg — its but first-timers should get their bearings using The city has a reputation for year-
interiors adorned with more than 300 antique StadtRAD — Hamburg’s bike hire scheme round rain and wind, although the
clocks. Head to the hefty wooden bar to order — which allows 30 minutes’ free cycling on daytime highs of around 23C in August
a Holsten Pils — Hamburg’s traditional beer. almost all of its tariffs. stadtrad.hamburg.de mean that, during summer, little ‘beach
Martin-Luther-Strasse 4 F C S T PAU L I M ATC H DAY S : Football is the clubs’ optimistically set up shop on
G RO S S E F R E I H E I T 3 6 : With its iconic neon pulse of Hamburg life, and dockers and city- the banks of the Elbe at St Pauli Piers.
sign shaped like a guitar, this club just off the centre residents generally support FC St Pauli. In winter, a Christmas market opens
Reeperbahn bills itself as both the largest and Tickets for matches are in high demand. If you next to the town hall; December sees
the oldest in Hamburg. Some people come here can’t get one, get a flavour of the atmosphere average temperatures drop to 4C.
for gigs and club nights, while others come to at the Jolly Roger — a supporter-owned bar,
catch echoes of the past; it was in the adjoining opposite the Millerntor stadium. fcstpauli.com MORE INFO
basement, named the Kaiserkeller, that the P O RT U G U E S E H A M B U RG : The city hamburg.com
Beatles honed their craft in the early 1960s, is a simmering stew of identities: the The Rough Guide to Germany, £16.99.
ILLUSTRATION: JOHN PLUMER

playing seven hours a night, seven nights a Portugiesenviertel, beside the docks, has
week. docksfreiheit36.de been an enclave of Portuguese and Spanish HOW TO DO IT
L E L I O N : This cocktail bar is the apex predator immigrants since the 1970s — but you can British Airways Holidays offers a three-
among the city’s drinking establishments get good Portuguese food right across the night city break package, staying at
and is decorated with sculptures of prowling city. Head to Pastelaria Transmontana to the NH Hamburg Altona, room only,
cats. The signature is the gin basil smash: a taste some of the best pastéis de nata north of from £379 per person, including flights
refreshing, lemony concoction. lelion.net Portugal. pastelaria-transmontana.de from Heathrow. ba.com/holidays

1 62 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL


| PA I D C O N T E N T F O R H X H U R T I G R U T E N E X P E D I T I O N S

UNITED STATES
Alternative Alaska
A journey through Alaska’s coastal regions reveals remote Aleutian islands,
rich Indigenous history and rare wildlife. Words: Jeannine Williamson
 | PA I D C O N T E N T F O R H X H U R T I G R U T E N E X P E D I T I O N S

S
itting at the far northwestern point Over 200 miles to the south, St Paul rush that turned Wrangell into a lawless
of North America, the largest state Island is home to America’s largest Unangan territory as thousands of prospectors arrived
in the US takes its name from the community, whose ancestors built semi- to seek their fortune. Learn all about this
language of the Unangan people subterranean homes to shelter from sea legacy and more, at the Wrangell Museum.
— Alyeska meaning ‘great land’. This winds. They share their remote home — and
vast wilderness offers visitors the chance the rest of the Pribilof Islands — with half BECOME A CITIZEN SCIENTIST
to explore unspoilt landscapes, elusive the world’s population of northern fur Citizen science projects allow travellers to
wildlife, abandoned islands and historic seals, plus 300 species of migrating birds, contribute to global research initiatives.
Indigenous sites. Discover its most remote including rare red-legged kittiwakes. Here, images of the humpback, orca, fin and
corners on an expedition cruise along the gray whales that inhabit the coastal waters
breathtaking 930-mile Inside Passage coastal VISIT A GHOST VILLAGE can be submitted to the Happywhale website,
route and beyond. A small boat is the only way to reach the which maps their movements globally. And
deserted village of Unga and its namesake those lucky enough to glimpse the majestic
SCOUT FOR BEARS & WILDLIFE isle, one of the 20 Shumagin Islands in the bald eagle or the willow ptarmigan, Alaska’s
Brown bears are undoubtedly the superstars Aleutian Chain. Settled by the Unangax in state bird, can join the world’s largest birding
of Alaska’s animal kingdom, topping many 1833 and originally called Ougnagok, it was community by sending their pictures to
visitors’ viewing lists. These awe-inspiring abandoned in 1969 when the islanders could eBird. Travellers on HX Hurtigruten
creatures stand up to seven feet tall, weigh no longer make a living from fishing. There’s Expeditions’ ship MS Roald Amundsen
around 700lb and lose up to a third of their an eerie yet peaceful silence as you step can also enjoy their own science centre,
bodyweight during winter hibernation. ashore to discover how nature has reclaimed providing insight into everything from cloud
With more than 2,000 brown bears a hamlet that was once home to 100 people. formations to phytoplankton.
— the largest concentration in the world Derelict wooden houses, a cemetery and a
— Katmai National Park is the prime place crumbling church sit surrounded by
to see them. Against a backdrop of soaring wildflower meadows of pink lousewort and From left: Tracy Arm fjord and glacier; brown bears in
mountains, active volcanoes and dramatic fireweed. You may also spot seals and sea Katmai National Park; MS Roald Amundsen
coastal scenery, visitors here can spot bears lions basking on the deserted shoreline.
searching for clams along the rocky shores
or hunting in salmon streams. Be sure to DELVE INTO ALASKAN CULTURE PLAN YOUR TRIP
keep an eye out for caribou, red fox, lynx, Situated in the heart of the Inside Passage, at
snowshoe hare, red squirrel and beaver, too. the mouth of the Stikine River, Wrangell is HX Hurtigruten Expeditions offer three Alaska
one of Alaska’s oldest harbour towns. It’s itineraries. Fly from the UK to Vancouver
EXPLORE ISOLATED ISLANDS the only Alaskan town to have flown three and set sail on the 530-passenger MS Roald
Ever heard a singing vole? You may have flags and been ruled by four nations; Łingít, Amundsen, a pioneering hybrid power
the chance on St Matthew Island. Sat in the Russia, Britain and the US. Expert guides expedition ship. For more information, visit
IMAGES: GETTY; OSCAR FARRERA

Bering Sea, halfway to Siberia, this is one will point out totems depicting the story of travelhx.com/uk
of the most far-flung places in Alaska. The the Indigenous Łingít people — including
remains of a few buildings, sandwiched the orca totem marking Chief Shakes’ grave.
between black sand beaches and Just outside the town is Petroglyph Beach,
unforgiving tundra, are a legacy of the few where incredibly clear rock carvings of
people who have tried and failed to live here. birds, fish and mysterious shapes date back
Now, the island is occupied only by puffins, 8,000 years. More recently, a 19th-century
cormorants and the distinctively vocal vole. gold strike on the Stikine prompted a gold

T H I S I S PA I D C O N T E N T. I T D O E S N OT N E C E S S A R I LY R E F L E C T T H E V I E W S O F N AT I O N A L G E O G R A P H I C ,
N AT I O N A L G E O G R A P H I C T R AV E L L E R ( U K ) O R T H E I R E D I TO R I A L S TA F F S .
 T R AV E L TA L K

A S K THE E XPE RTS

NEED ADVIC E FO R YO U R NE X T TRIP ? ARE YO U AF TER RECOM MEN DATI O N S ,
TI P S AND G U IDAN C E ? O U R E XPERT S HAVE TH E AN SWER S …

TH E
E X PE RT S

Marco Ferrarese
Freelance travel writer

Sue Bryant
Cruise editor, The Times
and The Sunday Times

Carolyn Boyd
Freelance travel writer

Can you suggest an itinerary openhouse.my oldchina.com.my thanks to its revered multi-ethnic
Louise Murray for a week-long culinary tour of facebook.com/thehungrytapir cuisine, perhaps best exemplified
Head of products, Malaysia? Shaped by centuries of shangri-la.com by nasi kandar (richly spiced curries
Dream Escape cultural exchange, Kuala Lumpur Two hours north by train, Ipoh, served on a bed of rice). Don’t be
provides the ideal introduction the state capital of Perak, is one fooled by the scruffy exterior —
to Malaysia’s multilayered of Malaysia’s most charming Tajuddin Hussain, on Little India’s
gastronomy. Start exploring at food cities. From the pearlescent Queen Street, is one of the best
Kitchen by OpenHouse, which Moorish train station, it’s a short restaurants to try it in George
serves up pan-Malaysian dishes walk to the Old Town and the Town. After you’ve explored the
such as asam pedas (fish in an buzzy cafes of Concubine Lane. capital’s produce markets and
aromatic sweet-sour stew) inside Drop off your bags at boutique learnt how to craft your own nasi
the capital’s international airport. property Belakang Kong Heng by lemak during a cooking class
From here, take the airport express Dreamscape — covered in a tangle with Nazlina Hassin, wind down
IMAGES: GETTY; ALAMY; BALLYFIN DEMESNE

train to Chinatown and sit down of climbing plants — and sit down at the Eastern & Oriental Hotel,
for homey Peranakan-style classics for Portuguese egg tarts and Ipoh overlooking the glimmering
in Old China Cafe. Try the chicken white coffee at Nam Heong, the waters of the Penang Strait. From
with nasi lemak (spicy coconut rice) coffee house where the popular RM700 (£118), B&B.
From left: Kuala Lumpur
or pop around the corner to The brew was invented. From RM100 East Travel has food-focused
is alive with markets
Hungry Tapir for a vegan-friendly (£17), room only. facebook.com/ private tours leaving from Kuala
after dark; Kaysersberg
spin on staples such as satay meat belakangkongheng instagram. Lumpur and ending in Penang from
Castle offers some of
the best views on the skewers with peanut sauce. The com/namheongipoh £1,185 per person, excluding flights.
Alsace Wine Route; rooms at Traders Hotel Kuala Hop back on the train and carry nazlinaspicestation.com
the Gold Room at Lumpur offer stunning city-centre on north to Penang. The island is eohotels.com eastravel.co.uk
Ballyfin Demesne views. From RM820 (£138), B&B. a pilgrimage site for food-lovers, MARCO FE RR ARE S E

166 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
My upcoming cruise stops at be eligible for an ESTA for two years. Your passport will
Canadian and US ports. Can the US and will have to apply need to be valid for at least
you provide information on for a B-2 visitor visa instead. six months from the date of
entry requirements for both? This involves a face-to-face your departure from either
If you’re entering Canada by interview and will cost you $185 country. esta.cbp.dhs.gov/esta
air to join the cruise ship, you’ll (£145). Assuming you qualify, canada.ca
need an eTA (Electronic Travel both visa waiver schemes are Only use the official
Authorisation) for Canada and easy to apply for and usually websites to apply for both, as
an ESTA (Electronic System quick to get, although you scams are common and you
for Travel Authorization) for shouldn’t leave it until the could end up overpaying.
entry to the US as you cross the last minute. The Canadian Authorisations are confirmed
border to Alaska. eTA costs just C$7 (£4) and by email and while both will
If you’ve travelled to Cuba is valid for multiple trips for be automatically associated
since 12 January 2021, or to up to five years, or until your with your passports, it’s a good
Iran, Iraq, Libya, North Korea, passport expires. An ESTA for idea to carry a hard copy of the
Somalia, Sudan, Syria or Yemen the US costs $21 (£16.90) and is email so you’ve got a paper
since March 2011, you’ll not valid for multiple entries over record. S U E B RYA N T

Which country house hotels in the

UK and Ireland would you suggest
for a Jane Austen-style getaway?
Where would you recommend Alsace, a pretty village of to visit the Dordogne. The My first recommendation would
as a base for a walking holiday timber-framed houses just six medieval town of Sarlat-la- be Heckfield Place, in Hampshire,
in France this September? and a half hours from London Canéda can be reached by a Grade II-listed manor house
France has so many varied by rail and within easy reach of train from London via Paris constructed in the 1760s and
landscapes, from the extinct the Vosges mountains. Wander and Bordeaux, taking around surrounded by meadows, heather
volcanoes of the Auvergne through vineyards, whch are eight hours depending on and woodland. Refined interiors
to the gorse-scented paths a riot of colour come autumn, Paris connections. It has one of look out onto painstakingly
of Brittany’s Emerald Coast to 13th-century Kaysersberg the region’s best markets, on restored lawns and walled gardens,
and the cherry orchards of Castle, from where there are Wednesdays and Saturdays. while the nearby village of Chawton
the Pyrenees. Thanks to its incredible views towards Fill up on hearty duck dishes plays host to the Jane Austen’s
excellent train network, you Germany’s Black Forest. before following wooded House museum, set in a cottage
can expect to race through There’s a market on Friday hiking trails to villages such as where the author revised her
to your destination on the mornings and the cobblestone Beynac-et-Cazenac and along manuscript for Pride and Prejudice.
high-speed TGV line before lanes of Colmar are only a the sinuous Dordogne river to From £600 a night, including daily
changing to the local TER 15-minute train ride away. La Roque-Gageac, where the tea and cake in the drawing room,
networks to reach smaller Being in the south west, houses are built into the cliffs. B&B. heckfieldplace.com
places like Turckheim, in September is a wonderful time C A R O LY N B OY D Further north, Grantley Hall, on
the edge of the Yorkshire Dales
National Park, has a rich heritage
stretching back to the final years
of the 17th century. Enjoy a long
soak in the Nordic Spa Garden
— complete with outdoor ice baths
— before taking a twilight stroll
around the English Heritage-listed
Japanese Garden and enjoying
dishes made from estate-grown
produce at Michelin-starred Shaun
Rankin at Grantley Hall. From £500
per person, B&B, including spa
access. grantleyhall.co.uk
Finally, Ballyfin Demesne, in
County Laios, Ireland, offers a
taste of the domestic splendour
once enjoyed by the Georgian
aristocracy. Set beneath the Slieve
Bloom Mountains, its 20 individually
designed rooms come with French
chandeliers, four-poster beds and
gilded writing tables overlooking
parkland studded with follies and
grottoes. From €405 (£348), B&B.
ballyfin.com For availability, email
[email protected]
L O U I S E M U R R AY

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 THE INFO

Edinburgh Fringe
A S TH E S COT TI S H C APITAL C ELEB R ATE S IT S 9 0 0TH B I RTH DAY, TH E WO R LD ’ S
B I G G E S T A RT S A N D C U LT U RE FE S TI VA L I S S E T TO R E T U R N TO TH E C IT Y I N AU G U S T

3
The number of audience
members who fit into

200
the festival’s smallest
venue: the Laughing
Horse chicken coop, The estimated number of global
in the garden of fringe festivals inspired by the
Edinburgh Festival Fringe, providing stages
The Pear Tree pub to unrepresented artists

67
TH E N U M B E R O F C O U NTRI E S
2,445,609 304
TH E N U M B E R O F S H OWS
RE PRE S E NTE D AT TH E 2 0 2 3 AT TE N D E D I N O N E FE STIVA L
FE STIVA L , W H I C H SAW M O RE The number of tickets issued for S E A S O N — A WO RLD REC O RD
TH A N 3 ,0 0 0 S H OWS H O STE D shows across the Edinburgh Fringe AC H I E V E D BY DAV I D C H A PPLE ,
AC RO S S 2 8 8 V E N U E S Festival in 2023 FRO M C O RN WA LL , I N 2 0 14

A COMEDIC HISTORY
WORDS: PRIYA RAJ. IMAGES: GETTY; AWL IMAGES

1947 1958 1979 2009

Eight theatre groups arrive at The Fringe Festival Society is NewsRevue, now the world’s The Edinburgh Festival Fringe is
the Edinburgh International formed to support performers longest-running live comedy deemed the world’s largest arts
Festival to perform uninvited, and uphold values of inclusivity, show, debuts at the Edinburgh festival by the Guinness World
spurring an industry shake-up experimentation and imagination Festival Fringe Records, a record still held today

Sources: edfringe.com edinburgh.gov.uk ein.org guinnessworldrecords.com

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 T R AV E L TA L K

HOT TOPIC

CYPRUS 50 YE ARS ON
It’s half a century since the island was split in two. We look at its unsettled
history, and the logistics of travel between north and south today

What is the anniversary? This

Elevated view over
July, it’s 50 years since Turkish
Nicosia, Cyprus
forces invaded and occupied
the northern third of Cyprus, in
the name of the Turkish Cypriot
minority that totalled around a fifth
of the island’s population. Ongoing
UN-led peace talks have since
been unsuccessful in reunifying the
island and Cyprus remains divided
in two: the southern Republic of
Cyprus, largely populated by Greek
Cypriots, and the Turkish-declared
Turkish Republic of Northern
Cyprus (TRNC). The TRNC isn’t
recognised by the UN, although
many countries maintain diplomatic
relations with the region.

What’s the background?

The island was ruled by the
Ottoman Empire for more than
300 years but has always had a big
Greek population, descended from
a mixture of aboriginal inhabitants
and early immigrants from the
Peloponnese. In 1878, Cyprus, then others, just a few steps. There to drive north of the border. Tours by Locals offers guided
ruled from Istanbul under the are officially sanctioned crossing This can be obtained at the trips across Cyprus led by locals
Ottoman Empire, was annexed by points, the most frequently used in checkpoint. However, rental and experts. They include a Nicosia
Britain. With its strategic position at the capital of Nicosia. Crossing from agencies may not allow trans- cross-border history tour and a
a crossroads of three continents, the south to north (and back again) is border travel, so drop your hire car visit to the ‘Ghost Town’ of Varosha
island had seen a series of previous straightforward, involving standard at the company’s Nicosia office, within the buffer zone, accessed via
colonisers, and had been ruled by border checks and passport stamps. then either take a taxi or walk Famagusta, a Venetian-Lusignan
Phoenicians, Assyrians, Egyptians, Foreign nationals who originate in across the border where local hire walled city in the island’s north
Persians, Romans and Venetians. In the north and travel south will be car companies are available and that’s home to the Cathedral of
1960, following decades of Greek- considered to have entered the also offer cross-border transfers. St Nicholas and the monastery
Cypriot campaigns for enosis (union Republic of Cyprus illegally via what Most hire car companies in the of St Barnabas, Cyprus’s patron
with Greece), Cyprus became an it terms the ‘Turkish Occupied Areas north don’t allow travel into the saint. home4cooperation.info
independent republic with a power of the Republic of Cyprus’ and may south or offer valid insurance or toursbylocals.com
share between its Greek and Turkish face a fine or be declined entry. The assistance there.
communities. Unrest followed and, north’s Ercan Airport doesn’t have What are visitor numbers like to
in 1974, a Greek-led coup, which international status, and flights Can I tour the buffer zone? Nicosia the region? North Cyprus Tourism
aimed to unite Cyprus with Greece, either originate in or go via Turkey. is Europe’s only divided capital. Centre reported 1.854 million total
was followed by a Turkish invasion. The UK government doesn’t Some tours visit points within or visitors to the island’s north in 2023,
recognise ‘the self-declared Turkish near the buffer zone, offering a 6% increase on pre-pandemic
How easy is it to travel between Republic of Northern Cyprus’ where commentary on the history and 2019 visitor numbers. Visit Cyprus
the south and north now? The consular support is limited, making politics of the conflict. The Home had around 3.8 million visitors in,
island is divided, east to west, travellers ‘more vulnerable and at For Cooperation is one such tour 2023. The UK, its biggest market,
by a 110-mile-long demilitarised greater risk’ according to the FCDO. provider. The building, in a former represents about 34% of the total
buffer zone monitored by the family home in the Nicosia buffer arrivals. It reported 1.3 million
UN Peacekeeping Force. Known What about travelling by hire zone, serves as an inter-communal UK arrivals in 2023, up by 7.4% on
variously as the Green Line, the car between the two? If you’re hub and a bridge-builder between 2022’s 1.2 million. visitcyprus.com
Dead Zone and the Buffer Zone, travelling from the south with a hire separated communities, and offers welcometonorthcyprus.co.uk
at some points it’s miles wide, at car, you’ll need special insurance guided walks in its vicinity. READ MORE ONLINE

J U L /AU G 2 0 24 169
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PHOTOGRAPHY
COMPETITION 2024
O N E O F TH E MO S T H I G H LY R EGAR D ED TR AVEL PH OTO G R APHY PRIZE S
I N TH E CO U NTRY, O U R PRE S TI G I O U S A N N UA L AWA R D S S H OWC A S E TH E
B E S T IM AG E S FROM TH O U SAN D S O F ENTR A N T S I N S IX C ATEG O R I E S

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P H OTO G R A P H Y C OM P E T I T I O N

172 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
L ANDSCAPE
This category should offer unusual perspectives on the
natural world. We’re looking for plenty of creativity in shots
that might, say, show an expanse of landscape or the graphic
patterns of an environment revealed from a drone.

Chris West L ANDSCAPE • RUNNERS - UP

Vestrahorn, Iceland
T H E P H OTO G R A P H E R S A I D : It was 3am and I J O H N S E AG E R M AC I E J P I Ę TOW S K I
was fast asleep on one of our last days in Iceland when my Salar de Arizaro, Argentina Adelaide Island,
girlfriend Elitsa woke me up, telling me that the aurora was T H E P H OTO G R A P H E R S A I D : El Antarctic Peninsula
“possibly” visible. Reluctantly, I got up and we drove the 20 Cono de Arita is a spectacular T H E P H OTO G R A P H E R S A I D :
minutes towards Vestrahorn mountain in hope. As we got geological formation where erosion As part of my role as an IT
out of the car, Elitsa’s immediate shriek of excitement told has shaped a near perfect cone in engineer at a research
me all I needed to know — the Milky Way, the Northern the desert of the salt pan in Salar de organisation, I was fortunate
Lights and Vestrahorn were in full view. This fulfilled a Arizaro, Argentina. I’d visited this enough to travel to the Rothera
dream I’d had since the first time I came here. site before and knew that the early Research Station on the Antarctic
Instagram: @shootingstills.co.uk evening sun casts a long shadow Peninsula. My passion for the
of the cone on the salt pan. When natural world and photography
T H E J U D G E S S A I D : Many images of the Northern Lights I returned to the site and flew my meant it was the perfect
can be a little boring or cliched. But this one is beautifully drone, I couldn’t believe my eyes combination. The female public
composed: the exposure brings out the Milky Way in — the scene was almost surreal. I felt toilet, on the edge of the station,
the stars above; the mountains stand out sharply in the very lucky to have been able to be highlights how far humanity has
background; and the lone figure with the headtorch acts capture the magnificent ‘Arita’ on a come to explore one of the most
as the perfect centrepiece. Even the snowy dunes look great beautiful, cloudless evening. remote places on Earth.
— a lot of work has gone into this shot. Instagram : @mister_seager Instagram: @maciejs_gallery

J U L /AU G 2 0 24 17 3
PEOPLE
Travel portraiture should convey the power and spirit
of human connection within a destination. It requires
an interesting subject, artfully framed within their
environment to reveal something of their unique story.

Colin Tennant PEOPLE • RUNNERS - UP

Arctic Bay, Canada
T H E P H OTO G R A P H E R S A I D : While on G AV I N B U R N E T T CHRIS GORM AN
assignment in the Canadian Arctic, my wife and I spent Northern Kerala, India Bude, Cornwall
several weeks with the Inuit community of Arctic Bay, in T H E P H OTO G R A P H E R S A I D : We T H E P H OTO G R A P H E R S A I D : I’d
the Qikiqtaaluk Region of Nunavut. During this time, we arrived at a small private temple wanted to photograph a Christmas
documented elements of Inuit life. This portrait is of Molly and waited until 3am for the Day swim for some time as they’ve
and her young daughter, wearing a traditional amautis. Kandanar Kelan Theyyam — a Hindu become more and more popular of
Made from seal skin, amautis have been used by Inuit religious ceremony. The bonfire late. The moment finally presented
mothers for centuries, providing a safe and practical way for was stoked, the drums beating and itself while I was visiting friends in
women to carry their babies. This traditional eastern Arctic the crowd jeered as they leaped. Bude in Cornwall over the festive
Inuit parka also helps to develop the close bond between The assistants’ faces winced with period. I knew the perspective
mother and child. each pass as they helped guide the of the drone looking back at the
Instagram: @coulsontennant entranced deity through the flames. swimmers from out to sea would
It was a tricky low-light shoot with make for something striking. After
T H E J U D G E S S A I D : This photograph speaks to the beauty manual exposure and focus, and the finding a safe place to launch, I
of cultural diversity, reminding us of the rich tapestry of timing was also crucial — too early waited with some excitement as
human experience. It captures the essence of maternal and miss the jump, too late and the more and more swimmers arrived.
love, cultural heritage and the human spirit’s resilience subject would be in shadow. Instagram:
against nature’s extremes. Instagram: @9avin @bigladderphotographer

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P H OTO G R A P H Y C OM P E T I T I O N

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 P H OTO G R A P H Y C OM P E T I T I O N

WILDLIFE
Observing animals in their natural habitat is one of the
greatest wonders of travel — capturing them on camera is one
of its biggest challenges. This category calls for arresting shots
of any type of creature, big and small.

Lewis James Newman WILDLIFE • RUNNERS - UP

South London
T H E P H OTO G R A P H E R S A I D : A fox family took up J O R DA N B A N K S ALIA NORDIC
residence in a local cemetery, and I got to know its routines. Ellesmere Island, Canadian Serengeti National Park, Tanzania
Spring was approaching, and the local council let the wild High Arctic T H E P H OTO G R A P H E R S A I D : This
flowers grow. I could see the dandelions starting to grow and T H E P H OTO G R A P H E R S A I D : In image was taken as the Great
the vixen would choose a particular spot right in the centre. August 2023, I set out on a six-week Migration moved south towards
As the days passed and the seeds started to fall, I noticed expedition up Baffin Bay to the the Eastern Serengeti in an area
she’d wake up covered in them. I knew I had to act fast to get High Arctic and North Pole. Off called Namiri. I wanted to capture
this on film, so I spent many evenings at the cemetery trying the coast of Ellesmere Island in the something different to the usual
to capture this very brief moment. Canadian High Arctic, we spotted a river crossings, highlighting the
Instagram: @lewisnewgram female polar bear resting on an ice magnitude of the thousands
flow. Approaching very slowly and of animals that take part in the
T H E J U D G E S S A I D : There were many incredible cautiously, we edged ever closer. migration. The location — in the
submissions within the wildlife category, but something Thankfully, the bear — who’d just remote Soit Le Motonyi region of
always brought us back to this. The colour and composition given birth — was very relaxed Serengeti National Park — took
are spot on, and the shallow depth of field isolates and and allowed us to spend an ages to reach, but thankfully the
highlights the subject. What brings it to the next level is the amazing 20 minutes with her herds were still on the other side of
ability to relate to this exact moment; how you might react before we quietly backed away. the river when we arrived.
similarly if suddenly coated in the feathery pappi. Instagram: @jordanbanksphoto Instagram: @ac_imaging

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P H OTO G R A P H Y C OM P E T I T I O N

FOOD & TR AVEL

F O O D & T R AV E L • R U N N E R S - U P

J O S H UA PAU L A K E R S
This category celebrates photography that tells a story from any Seoul, South Korea
stage of the culinary journey from field to fork. Perhaps scenes T H E P H OTO G R A P H E R S A I D :
of fishing or a harvest, chefs busy at work at a street-food stall or In Davy Chou’s film, Return to
vendors selling their produce at a local market. Seoul, the protagonist dances in a
basement bar. After a lot of research,
I discovered it’s a real place where
the DJ — a collector with over 20,000
Bernard Kuhn records — plays nightly to a crowd
Koh Dach Island near Phnom Penh, Cambodia of fashionable hipsters and lovers of
T H E P H OTO G R A P H E R S A I D : On the way back obscure music. Despite the ambivalent
from a visit to the silk community of Koh Dach Island, the bartender and lingering smell from the
sight of rows of yellowish skins hanging on the roadside toilet, I loved the retro neon signage
caught my attention. I stopped and entered a workshop and curious mix of customers.
where local workers produce bean curd skins, a popular Instagram: @joshuapaulakers
food item in China, Japan and Korea. Ta Be, pictured, boils
soy milk in shallow pans. The film of skin, which forms on JA M E S M A LO N E Y
the top, is removed and dried. The rising smoke in the rays Clovelly, Devon
of light and Ta Be, dressed in a sarong, really highlighted T H E P H OTO G R A P H E R S A I D : As the
the difficult conditions in which he’s working. residents engaged in their daily
Instagram: @bernardkuhn70 activities and fishermen returned to
the harbour to unload their catch, it
T H E J U D G E S S A I D : The light streaming in through the provided a poignant reminder of the
windows creates a beautiful chiaroscuro, illuminating the traditions that have defined this fishing
scene. In a very elegant manner, this man delicately peels community for over seven centuries.
the skin off the tofu, crafting soy strings. The moody, high Instagram:
contrast lighting is what makes this photo truly shine. @jamesmaloneyphotography

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180 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
URBAN ENVIRONMENTS
The composition should capture the personality of a city or town. For example, choose to show how people
live in their urban space, traffic moving past striking architecture or bold street signs and shopfronts.

Kirill Nikitin U R B A N E N V I RO N M E N T S • RU N N E R S - U P
Marrakech, Morocco
T H E P H OTO G R A P H E R S A I D : This medieval C ATA L I N A B U S O I - G A ROA FA CHRIS HARRISON
street in Marrakech’s Souk Haddadine is home to artist Gerrard Street, London Duong Dong, Phu Quoc, Vietnam
blacksmiths and welders. It’s covered with metal sheets, T H E P H OTO G R A P H E R S A I D : The T H E P H OTO G R A P H E R S A I D : From
offering respite from the scorching sun. I stumbled upon Chinese New Year celebrations the bird’s-eye view of a drone, the
this place when the craftsmen were welding, and rays were a revelation; never had I been vibrant town of Duong Dong, on
of sun, beaming through the roof, were dancing in the surrounded by so many people the Vietnamese island of Phu Quoc,
smoke. It was full of the most bizarre and random metal yet comfortable at the same time. unfolds in a kaleidoscope of colour.
goods and reminded me of the Room of Requirement from Between the dancing dragons, The town clings to land that was
the Harry Potter series. As in the books, it’s also difficult to red lampshades and smell of bao formerly jungle and mangroves,
find it twice. buns, there seemed to be a shared but now teems with human life.
Instagram: @space_krill excitement to bring in the Year of Every inch of land is packed with
the Rabbit. I was captivated by the colourful rooftops, reflecting the
T H E J U D G E S S A I D : There’s so much to look at in this image atmosphere and photographed resourcefulness and resilience of its
— you’re really pulled into the detail of the scene. From the diverse crowd drawn to the inhabitants. However, these waters
the people’s striking poses and facial expressions to the festivities under the glow of the have been heavily overfished.
shaft of light streaming in through the blacksmith’s smoke, winter sun. Here lies the true beauty Boats dot the harbour, some
this is a dramatic, visually captivating shot. It has a great of London: a melting pot of cultures resting, others setting off in pursuit
muted colour palette with splashes of bright colour hidden coming together in celebration. of the dwindling bounty to be had.
away that pop out. This is a powerful and memorable Instagram: Instagram:
photograph and a worthy category winner. @fortunateframesphotography @charrison.photography

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PORTFOLIO
Whether it covers a road trip through Vietnam or an
Elvis festival in Nashville, the portfolio of up to 10 images
should create a multifaceted and cohesive story of
a single destination.

Dylan McBurney
Norway
T H E P H OTO G R A P H E R S A I D : Norway has always
been a location where I wanted to go and shoot. It has
everything from natural beauty and stunning wildlife
to dramatic landscapes. When I had the opportunity to
travel along the country’s coast and onto Svalbard with
Hurtigruten, I was so excited about what I might be able
to capture. This portfolio encompasses a range of images
from landscape to aerial, and even wildlife photography.
I feel these images offer an insight into the fascinating
details the Arctic landscape has to offer.
Instagram: @mcburneyphotography

T H E J U D G E S S A I D : A story that we overlooked at first, but

kept getting drawn back to — a lovely mix of urban and
natural environments, nature and people from a range of
perspectives, all graded beautifully to make a very strong
set of images.
 P H OTO G R A P H Y C OM P E T I T I O N

P O RT F O L I O • R U N N E R S - U P

BETH WILD
Varanasi, India
T H E P H OTO G R A P H E R S A I D : I’d heard much
about the magic and intensity of Varanasi.
Of course, photographically, it’s amazing.
There’s colour and character infused into
every corner; there’s majesty and poverty,
life and death. But it’s the religious devotion,
woven deeply into the fabric of all Varanasi
life, that creates a timeless sense of other-
worldliness. The energy of so many souls
worshipping the divine — endlessly. I walked
along the ghats (riverfront steps) and back
through the lanes every day, slowly getting
to know the people and places.
Instagram: @bethwildphotography

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P H OTO G R A P H Y C OM P E T I T I O N

P O RT F O L I O • R U N N E R S - U P

R E N ATO G R A N I E R I
South Georgia Island in the Atlantic Ocean
T H E P H OTO G R A P H E R S A I D : I wanted to focus
on king penguin colonies in South Georgia and
the Falklands, showing their behaviour, but
also the habitat they call home. The density of
wildlife on this remote gem of the South Atlantic
is extraordinary — some colonies reach 200,000
breeding pairs. I was keen to capture their
beauty as well as the resilience and toughness
that allows them to survive in such harsh
conditions. South Georgia is exposed to storms
and strong winds even in summer, so the best
time to visit is from October to March. However,
some researchers do live there all year round.
Instagram: @renato_granieri_photography

The judging panel

H O L LY- M A R I E C AT O
Documentary and commercial photographer
M AT T D U T I L E
Travel, portrait, and interior photographer
SADIE GOULD
Picture editor, Guardian Travel / Saturday Magazine
C A R O L KÖ RT I N G
Photo editor, Leica Fotografie International Magazine
AISHA NAZAR
Picture researcher, National Geographic Traveller (UK)
L U K E S TAC K P O O L E
Lifestyle and adventure photographer
J O N AT H A N S T O K E S
Lifestyle and travel photographer
BECKY REDMAN
Art director, National Geographic Traveller (UK)
B E N R OW E
Picture editor, National Geographic Traveller (UK)

THE PRIZES
The winners and runners-up all receive a year’s
subscription to National Geographic Traveller
(UK) and online tickets to the forthcoming
The Masterclasses.

S E E T H E F U L L G A L L E RY O F W I N N I N G
S H OT S A N D F I N A L I S T S AT
N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .C OM / T R AV E L

184 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
Alaska’s Nonprofit
Cruise Line:
The Boat Company
“As a conservation photographer and writer, I
spent seven days aboard nonprofit The Boat
Company’s 12-cabin M/V Mist Cove.

I remember being a bit shell-shocked when I

disembarked at my final port. The 157-foot ship
had just tucked me into private coves each
night, I had seen almost no signs of human life
other than on our ship and felt complete
overwhelm by the 17-million acres of forest, ice
and wildlife in the Tongass National Forest.

The Boat Company has spent over 40 years

protecting this rare, coastal temperate
rainforest, which fosters a disproportionately
large output of the world’s biodiversity.”
PHOTOGRAPHS
AND WORDS BY
For reservations or to contribute, MARISA MARULLI
MARISAMARULLI.ORG
visit: theboatcompany.org
 S U P E R S UM M E R SA L E
F O U R I S S U E S F O R O N LY £ 3

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S TA R L E T T E R Local tips
Victory lap The Inside Guide to Victoria, British Columbia
I wanted to say how inspirational your June (June 2024) brought back great memories of
2024 issue (featuring the Paris cover story) our visit last year. It was a concise summary of
was. This summer, my fiancé is competing in some of the key places to see in this Canadian
the Paris 2024 Olympic Games and we’ve got a province’s capital city. I’d also recommend
huge group of family and friends coming out to visiting the harbour area at nighttime: the
support him. Many of them have been asking view of the Parliament Buildings lit up over the
about what do to in the city, and I’ve been water is spectacular. And make time for one of
telling everyone to go and get a copy of the the Free Walking Tours, too — they give great
magazine, tearing out snippets to help guide info and insight into the best sights. Worth a
A baselayer our itinerary. We can’t wait to walk the High good tip to the guide! J O H N R E A D
worth £120 Line — but maybe we’ll leave the rollerblading
to the real athletes! E L L I E M C B R I E N
Lightweight and breathable,
the Nimsdai Baselayer is a Indian flavours
unisex fleece from record- I received your June magazine today and
breaking mountaineer read the feature on Mumbai (Eat) with great
Nirmal Purja’s new apparel interest. Being of Indian origin, I could just
IMAGES: NIMSDAI; JONATHAN STOKES

line. It’s built with SPF 50 picture the mouth-watering, spice-enriched

and UV protection, and foods the writer described. During each of
wicks sweat away and my visits to India, I’ve particularly looked
controls odour through forward to exploring the food scene in
anti-microbial technology. Mumbai. The writer’s correct: as impressive
Features include a long as the restaurants are, the street food is an
back skirting to prevent integral part of experiencing the city. The
pack chaffing, a long chest article showcases the vast range of dishes that
zip for ventilation and face are available, and reading about them all has
covering. nimsdaistore.com made me want to go back. M I N E S H S H A H

J U L /AU G 2 0 24 193
 THAILAND

HOW I GOT THE SHOT

U LF S VA N E O N PH OTO G R APH I N G TH E PARTI C I PA N T S O F O N E
O F PH U K E T ’ S MO S T S PI R ITED FE S TI VA L S F O R O U R J U N E I S S U E

Tell us about this image.

I took this photograph during Phuket’s nine-day
Vegetarian Festival, which is celebrated across
Southeast Asia but especially here, due to the
island’s large Taoist community. It’s said the
festivities were introduced in 1825 by a visiting
opera troupe of Chinese Taoists keen to uphold
their practices abroad. This mah song, one of
the spirit mediums around which the festival
revolves, was taking part in the main procession.
She’d just left the Jui Tui shrine in Phuket’s Old
Town, where she entered a divine state before
going house to house, blessing offerings. She
was clearly in a deep trance as she walked into
the morning sun, surrounded by her followers.

How did you achieve the shot?

I try to keep my travel set-up as simple as
possible. A 24-70mm lens is ideal, as it allows me
to capture everything from landscapes to close-
up portraits. This particular parade provided
a great opportunity to capture the latter, and
when I saw the woman in this shot, I knew I had
to photograph her. I finally got the chance when
she stopped in the middle of a large junction,
her eyes closed under the blazing heat.

What were the challenges at play?

During the festival, Phuket Town is packed with
people demonstrating their devotion to the
gods, from the crowds that turn out to see the
mah song to the participants in the infamous
fire-walking ceremony. That kind of bustling
atmosphere can make finding a good moment
to shoot something of a challenge, especially
when there’s a constant threat of a loud firework
going off somewhere nearby.
It was a privilege rather than a challenge, but
writer Daniel Stables and I were also required to
abstain from alcohol, tell the truth at all times,
follow a vegetarian diet during the festival and
wear all-white clothing from head to toe — all
part of the purification of mind and body.

What advice would you give to someone

starting out in travel photography?
Don’t spend a fortune on gear — buy a train
ticket instead. Engage with people respectfully
and stay open to your surroundings.

@ulfsvane

I S U B M I T YO U R P H OTO G R A P H Y F O R C O N S I D E R AT I O N AT P H O T O G R A P H Y@ N AT G E O T R AV E L L E R . C O . U K

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