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 © Lonely Planet Publications
13

Contents
On the Road 4 Agra 129
History 131
Orientation 131
Highlights 5 Information 131
Dangers & Annoyances 133
Destination Sights & Activities 133
Tours 137
Rajasthan, Delhi &
Agra 15 Sleeping
Eating & Drinking
137
139
Shopping 140
Getting Started 17 Getting There & Away
Getting Around
140
141

Itineraries 22 AROUND AGRA

Fatehpur Sikri
142
142

History 27 Rajasthan 145

The Culture 39 Jaipur 147
Orientation 150
Information 150
Rajasthani Arts Dangers & Annoyances 151
& Crafts 53 Sights 151
Activities 161
Food & Drink 64 Pink City Walking Tour
Courses
162
163

Environment 76 Tours
Sleeping
164
164
Eating 169
Delhi 87 Drinking
Entertainment
171
172
History 89
Shopping 172
Orientation 90
Getting There & Away 174
Information 90
Getting Around 176
Dangers & Annoyances 94 AROUND JAIPUR 176
Sights 96 Amber 176
Activities 107 Jaigarh 179
Courses 108 Sanganer & Bagru 180
Delhi for Children 108 Samode 180
Tours 109 Ramgarh 181
Sleeping 109 Abhaneri 181
Eating 113 Balaji 182
Drinking 117 Sambhar Salt Lake 182
Entertainment 118
Shopping
Getting There & Away
118
121
Eastern Rajasthan 183
Bharatpur 186
Getting Around 122 Keoladeo Ghana
GREATER DELHI 126 National Park 188
Tughlaqabad 126 Deeg 193
Qutb Minar 126 Alwar 194
14 CONTENTS

Around Alwar 197

Sariska Tiger Reserve
Ajmer
198
200
Directory 350 The Authors 402
Around Ajmer 205
Pushkar
Tonk
206
214
Transport 373 Behind the Scenes 403
Ranthambhore
National Park
Karauli
215
219 Health 386 Index 410
Southern
Rajasthan 221 Language 394 World Time Zones 418
Bundi 223
Kota 228 Glossary 398 Map Legend 420
Around Kota 232
Jhalawar 233
Around Jhalawar 234
Bundi to Chittorgarh
(Chittor) 235
Chittorgarh (Chittor) 236
Udaipur 240
North of Udaipur 257
South of Udaipur 262
Mt Abu 264
Around Mt Abu 271
Abu Road 272

Northern Rajasthan
(Shekhawati) 273
Nawalgarh 277
Parsurampura 282
Dundlod
Mukundgarh
Jhunjhunu
282
284
284
Regional Map Contents
Baggar 288
Bissau 288
Mahansar 289
Ramgarh 290
Delhi
Fatehpur 291 pp92–3
Mandawa 294 Northern
Rajasthan
Lakshmangarh 296 (Shekhawati)
p274
Churu 297 Agra
Around Churu 298 p132
Western Jaipur
Rajasthan
299
pp152–3
p300
Western Rajasthan Eastern
Rajasthan
Jodhpur 301 p184
Around Jodhpur 313
Nagaur 316
Jodhpur to Jaisalmer 317 Southern
Rajasthan
Jaisalmer 320 p222
Around Jaisalmer 335
Barmer 337
Around Barmer 338
Bikaner 338
Around Bikaner 347
© Lonely Planet Publications
14 lonelyplanet.com 15

Destination Rajasthan,
Delhi & Agra
Here is India at its high-definition, surround-sound best. Prowling tigers,
swaying elephants, hot and spicy bazaars, fabulous festivals, stunning saris
and twisted turbans; all a pageant of colour and curiosity set against a back-
drop of desert sands, secluded jungles, marble palaces and impenetrable
stone forts. FAST FACTS
This book also celebrates the Golden Triangle – a traveller’s trigonometric Population Rajasthan:
survey of emblematic India. Starting at the daunting megametropolis of 56.5 million
Delhi with its majestic Mughal heritage, it then angles towards Agra, where Population Delhi: 12.8
the world’s most famous tomb, the Taj Mahal, defines a city, before heading million
to Jaipur, the city painted pink with a palace of winds and bustling bazaars,
and the gateway to Rajasthan. Population Agra: 1.3
Covering an area 342,236 sq km, about the size of Germany, Rajasthan million
represents 10.4% of the Indian landmass, with much of it embracing the Thar Population Growth Rate:
Desert, a vast area of heat, dunes and dust. The chronic drought of recent 2.5%
times has accelerated migration from the parched agricultural lands to the GDP growth rate: 9%
already overburdened cities.
In recent years, Rajasthan’s life-giving monsoon has become less and less Inflation: 5.2%
predictable, and the desperate scarcity of rain has affected people’s liveli- Unemployment: 5.5%
hoods as well as the greater environment. For those who remain on the No of camels: 400,000
land, it has become a battle for survival. No wonder then, that there were
tears of joy as the waters from the Sardar Sarovar dam, part of the contro- No of tigers: 16-20 (all in
versial Narmada River Project in neighbouring Gujarat, finally trickled Ranthambhore National
into the deserts around Barmer and Jalore in 2008. Bringing drinking and Park)
irrigation water to millions of people affected by drought was a political No of maharajas (and
triumph, but the ultimate financial, social and environmental costs have rajas): 19
yet to be counted.
Snapshots of the everyday in Rajasthan capture India at its most evocative:
You can catch it in the twirl of a moustache, a veiled glance, or a puff of blue
hashish smoke. Witnessing turbaned men bartering camels brings history to
life. This is Rajasthan’s famous heritage which has bestowed legacies of pride
and tradition, magnificent palaces and forts, as well as stunning handicrafts
and fine arts developed through patronage of the Maharajas. Rajasthan is
India’s major drawcard in the lucrative tourist trade – 40% of all visitors to
India come to Rajasthan, bringing with them cash, providing jobs, affording
its magnificent heritage to be maintained, encouraging the region’s splendid
arts and provoking cultural exchange.
However, there is another side to the heritage coin: the state’s feudal
burden slows development, and in many respects – women’s rights, health
and education – Rajasthan lags behind the other states in the country. The
position of women – especially rural women – is a particular cause for
concern. In rural areas female education is not valued, largely because of
the expense of sending girls to school. But it is also because women have a
low status (for more information, see p40). Access to education and health
resources in Rajasthan is affected by gender, caste and class far more than
elsewhere in the country. It’s not all doom and gloom though. The figures
for literacy, at around 61% (44.2% for women), have doubled since 1991.
Statistics also indicate a decline in poverty and infant mortality.
16 D E S T I N AT I O N R A J A S T HA N , D E L H I & A G R A lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com 17

The entire Indian economy, including Rajasthan’s tourism, agriculture

and business sectors, has undeniably made giant strides in recent years;
however, the challenges for today’s politicians – redistribution of wealth
and environmental conservation – remain unresolved. Rajasthan continues
to lose its wildlife and vegetation, and India is expected to become the
world’s third-largest emitter of carbon by 2015. In a land where juxtapo-
sition of old and new has become a hackneyed slogan, the visitor must
still marvel at the scene of elaborate cenotaphs of erstwhile rulers and rich
silk-route traders now crowded by state-of-the-art wind turbines helping
to address India’s burgeoning energy and pollution crisis.
16 lonelyplanet.com 17

Getting Started
Rajasthan holds India’s greatest wealth of places to visit, and is conven-
iently adjacent to the international gateway of Delhi and the internationally
famous destination of Agra. This area of India is very accessible and easy
to travel around, with air, bus and train connections that make all sorts of
routes feasible. The only problem you may face is deciding how many of
Rajasthan’s extraordinary sights you can fit into your visit. While puzzling
this out, make sure you allow some time to visit out-of-the-way places too,
as your experience in a rural hamlet or little-visited village will be a world
away from that in the major towns and cities.
Rajasthan suits all budgets – you can travel on a shoestring, emulate the
maharajas or go for a middle-path sojourn, and in each case have an aston-
ishing, romantic time, staying in wondrous places that evoke the region’s
past in varying degrees of luxury.
Travel in India can be exasperating, challenging and stressful, so choose
your companions with care. Women travelling alone will encounter some
hassle (see p372 for more information) but this is usually irritating rather than
dangerous – it’s generally a safe place to travel solo whatever your gender.
Travel with children is rewarding here, too. In such a family-centred society,
children are fêted everywhere and will be your ticket to feeling welcome
wherever you go! That said, it’s much harder in the hectic, traffic-congested
cities, so you’ll need to plan your route carefully to allow lots of respite on
the way. For more information, see p354.
For disabled travellers, India is very challenging – crowds, uneven surfaces,
lack of adequate facilities, and toilets (often of the squat variety) that test the
most able-bodied are all hurdles for any traveller. However, the advantage
with travelling here is that you can always find help at hand to assist with
lifting, carrying or just about anything. With planning and research there’s
no reason to rule Rajasthan out because you have a disability. See p369 for
more details.
You can choose to get around by train, plane, bus or taxi. Many travellers,
particularly those short of time, choose to travel solely by taxi – this allows
you complete flexibility, and means you can cover a lot of ground and visit
out-of-the-way places with ease. Part of the joy of travel in India, however,
can be to take trains – always an experience in itself and a good way of min-
gling with others. If it suits your needs, trip and budget, the most flexible
and rewarding way to get around is a mishmash of methods – taking the
occasional train, buses when it suits, and taxis for the more inaccessible places
or when you need your own space or are just a bit tired. For more discussion
of the pros and cons of different forms of transport, see p376.

WHEN TO GO
Rajasthan is at its best in the balmy winter months (November to March), See Climate Charts (p354)
when the days are warm and sunny (average temperatures across the state are for more information.
around 25°C), and the nights are cool. However, as this is when most people
go, hotel prices are at their highest and you’ll also have to plan (and book)
ahead if you want to stay in the better-known midrange and top-end hotels,
particularly the palaces, havelis (traditional, ornately decorated residences)
and hunting lodges for which Rajasthan is renowned. In March and in the
postmonsoon season from mid-September to the end of November, it’s a bit
hotter, but still fine to visit, with average maximum temperatures in October
of around 35°C and an average minimum of around 20°C. These periods are
18 G E T T I N G S TA R T E D • • W h e n t o G o lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G S TA R T E D • • C o s t s & M o n e y 19

also good as places won’t be so busy and rooms at those charismatic hotels COSTS & MONEY
will be easier to find. Prices vary depending on the season and how busy a place is. In the
Another factor you should watch out for is travelling during Indian low season, or even on an off day during the high season, you can get
holiday times. If you want to catch a train during the Diwali holiday (p360), big discounts just by asking. Costs will escalate during festivals or other
for example, you’ll need to book your ticket weeks in advance. Otherwise special events. Costs in the larger cities (such as Jaipur, Delhi and Agra)
you can usually book train and plane tickets just a few days in advance to and popular tourist destinations (such as Jaisalmer and Udaipur) are often
be assured a place. HOW MUCH?
higher, though accommodation can be cheap at these places because of
Rajasthan is a startlingly vibrant state, and some of its most colourful fes- all the competition. Internet access per hr
tivals, such as the Desert Festival in Jaisalmer (p301) and the famous Pushkar Costs also vary depending on whether you are travelling solo or in a Rs 20-60
Camel Fair (p209), take place in winter. In October/November it’s Diwali, the group. It’s more economical travelling with one or more people, as you can Rajasthani puppet
festival of lights, when people go crazy with noisy fireworks, and oil lamps save money by sharing hotel rooms, taxis, rickshaws and car hire. Rs 100-500
line the streets. In late February/early March there’s Holi (p360), India’s Whatever budget you have, you’ll get so much more for your money than
most exuberant festival, when everyone throws coloured water and powder Kurta pyjamas Rs 300
in most other countries – Rajasthan is amazing value.
at each other. Rajasthan’s own Gangaur Festival (see p148) is celebrated in That said, during the high season, prices for top-end hotels can vie with Camel safari per day
March/April, as is Udaipur’s Mewar Festival (p224). Jaipur’s Elephant Festival similar places elsewhere in the world. If you stay in luxurious converted Rs 650
(see p148) is held in March. For more on festivals, see the boxed text at the forts and palaces, fly between the main cities of Rajasthan, and buy ex- Henna painting per hand
beginning of each regional chapter and p358. quisite arts and crafts, you can sail through enormous amounts of cash. Rs 80
Winter is also a good time to visit Rajasthan’s best-known wildlife sanctu- It’s easy to blow US$200 a night in a swanky palace hotel without even
aries: Keoladeo Ghana National Park (p188), Ranthambhore National Park poking your nose out the door.
(p215) and Sariska Tiger Reserve (p198). If you stay in dormitories or the cheapest hotels, travel on public buses, and
If a summer visit is your only option, be aware that it will be horren- subsist on dhal and rice, you could see Rajasthan on about US$20 a day.
dously hot. Premonsoon, which extends from April to June, is the hottest If you’re looking for something between these extremes, you could
season, with temperatures ranging from 32°C to 45°C. There is little relief spend around US$40 to US$60 a day staying in good budget and midrange
from the scorching onslaught, particularly in the arid zone to the west hotels, eating in good restaurants and taking trains and autorickshaws
and northwest of the Aravalli Hills, where temperatures often climb above rather than uncomfortable buses.
45°C. Mt Abu registers the lowest temperatures at this time (the daytime
maximum reaches around 32°C). The monsoon is a welcome arrival in late
June in the eastern and southeastern regions of the state, finally falling in Admission Fees
mid-July in the desert zones. It is preceded by dust and thunderstorms. Most tourist sites have an admission fee, and many levy a fee for the use
Unless the rains are insubstantial, the monsoon is accompanied by a of cameras and videos (they haven’t yet adapted for digital cameras that
decrease in temperatures, with average maximums dropping to 29°C to can take videos). Many sites charge a substantially lower admission fee for
32°C in the south and southeast of Rajasthan, and an average of above Indian residents than they do for foreigners. In case you’re wondering, if
38°C in the northern and northwestern regions. But take comfort in the you’re of Indian descent (but not an Indian resident), the foreigners’ rate
fact that hotel prices will be at their lowest, you won’t have to book ahead officially applies, although you may escape detection or even be knowingly
anywhere, and plan on taking it easy and doing your sightseeing early or offered the lower local rate.
late in the day. Admission to the Taj Mahal now costs Rs 750 for foreigners, but most
other places are nowhere near as expensive, averaging around Rs 250 for
major sites.
DON’T LEAVE HOME WITHOUT…

„ Your passport, visa (p369), tickets and travel insurance (p361) TRAVELLING RESPONSIBLY
„ Sleeping-bag sheet – good if you’re unsure about the hotel linen and essential if you’re Since its inception in 1973, Lonely Planet has encouraged readers to tread
travelling overnight on a 2nd- or 3rd-class sleeper train lightly, travel responsibly and enjoy the magic that independent travel af-
fords. International travel is growing at a jaw-dropping rate, and we still
„ Packets of wet wipes
firmly believe in the benefits it can bring – but, as always, we encourage
„ Tampons – available in main tourist centres, but it’s worth bringing your own stock you to consider the impact your visit will have on both the global en-
„ Sunscreen and sunglasses – the local versions aren’t reliable vironment and the local economies, cultures and ecosystems. For a range
of ways to travel responsibly see Responsible Travel (p82).
„ A small torch (flashlight) – the sort you wear on your head to keep your hands free is ideal
„ A universal sink plug – useful in cheap hotels
TRAVEL LITERATURE
„ Insect repellent – you can’t buy the really good stuff
Robyn Davidson’s Desert Places is a remarkable account of the author’s
„ A voltage stabiliser – a good idea if you’re bringing sensitive electronic equipment journey by camel with the Rabari (a nomadic tribal group) on their annual
„ A water bottle – if you use water-purification tablets or filters (see Drinking Water, p391) migration through the Thar Desert. It offers compelling insight into the
you’ll avoid adding to Rajasthan’s plastic waste problem plight of the nomads, as well as recounting the reflections of a solo female
traveller in Rajasthan.
20 G E T T I N G S TA R T E D lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G S TA R T E D • • I n t e r n e t R e s o u r c e s 21

DELHI Ne pa l Bh ut an Rajasthan Stories, Rudyard Kipling’s tales about the state, make for an old-

TOP PICKS
PUT YOURSELF IN THE PICTURE
Pa ki st an

RAJAST
AGRA
HA N Ba ng la de
sh
fashioned ripping yarn; the three slim volumes are available in bookshops
in Jaipur (p150).
City of Djinns, by William Dalrymple, is a fascinating book about Delhi –
its history intertwined with the author’s personal struggles to get to grips
with the city. It also records a visit to the Sufi shrine at Ajmer during pil-
Take the effort to seek out some of the region’s most spectacular, picturesque and evocative
grimage time.
experiences and take home a lifetime of memories.
In Rajasthan, by Royina Grenal, is part of Lonely Planet’s travel litera-
„ The monument to love – the Taj Mahal „ Tiger spotting in Ranthambhore National ture series and gives a different slant on solo female travel – from a local (if
(p133) Park (p215) privileged middle-class) perspective.
„ Sunrise overlooking Pushkar from Saraswati „ The sand-castle fort of Jaisalmer (p320)
Lost in Transmission, by Jonathan Harley, is an engaging and entertaining
Temple (p209) account of a foreign correspondent finding his way in the subcontinent. It
„ Bird-watching in Keoladeo Ghana National is interestingly linked to another book, Holy Cow, by Sarah MacDonald.
„ The mighty Mehrangarh (p304), Rajasthan’s Park (p188) This is a lightweight, amusing book about the author’s life in Delhi (thanks
most imposing fort
to new husband, Jonathan Harley), travels around India, and her cursory
investigations of different religions – her conclusions feel a bit glib, but it’s
very entertaining on the way.
ROMANTIC ROOMS & PALATIAL DIGS Scoop-wallah, by Justine Hardy, follows the author’s work on the Indian
Whether it’s an old fort with metre-wide walls, an opulent palace, or a luxury tent in the wide
Express in Delhi. It’s a tantalising glimpse into the world of Indian journalism
outdoors, you’ll sleep like royalty in our top hotel picks.
that journeys through the author’s frustrations and her canny observations
„ Lake Palace Hotel (p253) – opulence with „ Rambagh Palace (p169) – lavish lawns and
of contemporary Delhi.
movie-set credentials and a perfect location serene surroundings seem to slow down time No Full Stops in India, by BBC correspondent Mark Tully, is a fascinating
read that details his travels around India and puts forward some interpret-
„ Khem Villas (p218) – luxurious tents and „ Umaid Bhawan Palace (p310) – sheer luxury in
bungalows in jungle environs owned and this swan song of maharaja indulgence
ations of contemporary Indian society.
run by dedicated conservationists „ Shiv Niwas Palace Hotel (p253) – sumptuous INTERNET RESOURCES
suites and a gorgeous marble pool The website of the state tourism authority, Rajasthan Tourism Development
Corporation (RTDC; www.rajasthantourism.gov.in), offers some useful information on
what’s happening in Rajasthan.
GOING GREEN There are zillions of websites on India and Rajasthan, but you’ll find that
Though there are many claiming to be on the green wagon, Rajasthan is not an overly green many are nothing more than glossy, inaccurate public-relations puff. For
destination. Nonetheless, there are some commendable efforts blending sustainable tourism with reliable information scan trusted newspapers and current-affairs sites:
environmental awareness. Hindu (www.thehindu.com) The website of this quality broadsheet.
Hindustan Times (www.hindustantimes.com) Another reasonable broadsheet with a reasonable
„ Apani Dhani (p281) – an award-winning conserving the natural environment and
website.
accommodation option that uses organic traditional knowledge
farm alternative energy, including solar
India Today (www.india-today.com) A popular magazine on India’s current affairs.
„ Sanganer’s paper manufacturers (p180) – Indian Express (www.indianexpress.com) Useful coverage on this popular broadsheet’s site.
cookers and water heaters, compost toilets use recycled fabric rather than wood pulp
and biogas
Times of India (www.timesofindia.com) National coverage with a tabloid feel, and a curious
„ Anokhi (p174) – a modern textile outlet, selection of international news.
„ Barefoot College (p207) – supports rural with branches blossoming all over India,
outreach programmes in Rajasthan with that has helped revive traditional dyeing
an emphasis on empowering women and and hand-block printing

FESTIVALS & EVENTS

Rajasthan is alive with festivals year-round and the following are our top 10 picks (for more on
the wealth of festivals and events in Rajasthan, see p358).

„ Jaisalmer Desert Festival (p301) in January „ Dussehra (p224) in October and November
and February in Jaisalmer in Kota
„ Holi (p224) in February and March in Udaipur „ Pushkar Camel Fair (p209) in October and
„ Gangaur (p148) in March and April in Jaipur
November in Pushkar

„ Teej (p148) in July and August in Jaipur „ Kolayat Fair (p301) in November in Bikaner
 22 lonelyplanet.com ITINERARIES •• Classic Routes 23

MAHARAJA CIRCUIT
Itineraries With a fortnight to spare, you can forget triangles and go all out for a mul-
tifaceted loop taking in Rajasthan’s most spectacular cities, all erstwhile
capitals of former princely states.
CLASSIC ROUTES Again, start from Delhi (p88) and make your way to Jaipur (p147), possibly
via Agra (p130) and the Taj Mahal (p133).
From Jaipur, take a long trip to the sacred lake of Pushkar (p206) and then Taking in the
This traditional THE GOLDEN TRIANGLE on to the romantic lake-town of Udaipur (p240), visiting the fine City Palace famous palaces
circuit linking the One route is so well loved it even has a name: the Golden Triangle – the classic (p244) and the impressive Jagdish Temple (p247) as well as doing some shop-
and forts of royal
Delhi–Agra–Jaipur trip, which can be squeezed into a week. ping and relaxing on rooftops while peering at the lake. From Udaipur head to
big-ticket attrac- the extraordinary, bustling, blue city of Jodhpur (p301), but not before taking Rajasthan, this
Spend a day or two in Delhi (p88) finding your feet and seeing the big-
tions of Delhi, Agra draw sights, such as the magnificent Mughal Red Fort (p96) and Jama Masjid time to stop at the milk-white Jain temple complex of Ranakpur (p261) and 2000km loop
and Jaipur is ideal (p98), India’s largest mosque. Then catch a convenient train to Agra (p130) the isolated, dramatic fortifications of Kumbalgarh (p259), one of Rajasthan’s explores the length
for travellers short to spend a day being awed by the world’s most extravagant monument to most remote and impressive forts. As they are fairly close together you can and breadth of the
love, the Taj Mahal (p133) and exploring the mighty Agra Fort (p135). Only an visit them comfortably en route to Jodhpur in a day. In Jodhpur itself, visit
on time. You will romantic desert
hour away is Fatehpur Sikri (p142), a beautiful Mughal city dating from the the spectacular Mehrangarh (p304), a fort that glowers over the city like a
cover just over storybook fortress. state. Though
apogee of Mughal power, which is amazingly well preserved and deserves
700km and though another day. Next take an overnight train to the Golden City, Jaisalmer (p320), a giant certainly feasible in
the road and rail If you have time, take a rural respite at Keoladeo Ghana National Park (p188), sand castle in the desert, with its beautiful Jain temples and exquisite mer- a couple of weeks,
connections are one of the world’s foremost bird reserves. Though suffering from lack of chants’ havelis (traditional, ornately decorated mansions). Take a short camel
you’ll be tempted
water, it is a relaxing, beautiful and intriguing place to visit. Having chilled, safari through bewitching desertscapes if you get a chance, and break your
excellent, book journey back to Delhi with a stop in the desert city of Bikaner (p338), home to linger and lap up
you can train it to Jaipur (p147) for a couple of days in and around Rajasthan’s
your bus or train hectic, dusky-pink capital, seeing the City Palace (p154) and Amber Fort (p178), to the impregnable Junagarh Fort (p339). the luxury.
seats early on this and stocking up on blue pottery, Rajasthani puppets and other shopping
popular trail. delights before heading back to Delhi.

DELHI
DELHI

Bikaner

Agra Agra
Fatehpur
Keoladeo Sikri RAJASTHAN Jaipur
Jaipur Ghana
National Jaisalmer
Park
RAJASTHAN
Pushkar

Jodhpur

Ranakpur
Kumbalgarh

Udaipur
 24 ITINERARIES •• Classic Routes lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com I T I N E R A R I E S • • Ta i l o re d T r i p s 25

A MONTH-LONG SOJOURN
With Agra (p130) and the Taj Mahal (p133) as your first stop after Delhi (p88), TAILORED TRIPS
head to Fatehpur Sikri (p142) and the World Heritage–listed bird-watching
paradise of Keoladeo Ghana National Park (p188), followed by Ranthambhore UNDISCOVERED GEMS
National Park (p215) if tigers are your bag. Many out-of-the-way places in Rajasthan don’t see that many tourists –
Take the train southwest to Kota for a stop at the charming small town amazing when you consider how many visitors the state receives, and won-
This 2500km plus of Bundi (p223), before taking the train on to Chittorgarh (p236) and then derful when you want to escape from the major tourist haunts and see an
circuitous expedi- Udaipur (p240), where you can relax from your travels with a few easy days entirely different side of the state.
tion delves into the of sightseeing, grazing and shopping. Our top picks include the Shekhawati region with its colourful havelis and
From Udaipur it’s worth side-tripping to Mt Abu (p264) to see the mag- rural pace. The town of Mandawa aside, the area has escaped much tour-
spiritual heart of nificent Dilwara Temples (p265) before going north to Jodhpur (p301), or travel ism, and seeking out the amazing murals in its small towns is like a treas-
Rajasthan, combin- directly to Jodhpur, stopping at Ranakpur (p261) and Kumbalgarh (p259) on ure hunt. Some towns worth discovering are
ing lesser-known the way. From Jodhpur it’s an easy train ride to Jaisalmer (p320), the golden Nawalgarh (p277), Fatehpur (p291), Dundlod (p282)
palaces, secretive desert town, from where you can take a camel trek into the desert. After and Mahansar (p289). Other lesser-known places
tigers, and aston- Jaisalmer, head to Bikaner (p338) via Phalodi (p318) and Khichan (p318), where include Kolayat (p348), a remote town around a
you can observe the village’s renowned demoiselle cranes. holy lake near Bikaner; Osiyan (p317), an ancient
ishing temples with From Bikaner head south, stopping at the challenging and fascinating Mahansar
desert town filled with Jain temples; some of the Fatehpur Dundlod
the more famous rat temple of Deshnok (p349) and the sleepy cattle-fair town of Nagaur (p316) sights around Sariska, such as the ghost town of Kolayat
Nawalgarh
attractions of the before coming to rest at the sacred pilgrimage town of Pushkar (p206) to relax Bhangarh (p199); Dungarpur (p263), a royal town
Bhangarh
Osiyan
region. Factor in for a few days…or more. with an eccentric empty palace and serene lake; Pushkar Karauli
From Pushkar it is a short hop to Jaipur (p147) with its fabulous citadel Jhalawar (p233), near a magnificent fortress and
several rest days in at Amber and great shopping. From Jaipur head north to Shekhawati (p273) the ancient City of Temple Bells; and Karauli (p219),
a quiet corner or a for a few days, inspecting havelis at Mandawa (p294), Nawalgarh (p277) and which has a beautiful, worn palace. Kumbalgarh
plush palace hotel. Fatehpur (p291), before returning to Delhi. Other wonderful escapes are the countryside Mt Abu Udaipur Jhalawar

around Udaipur (p240), with its undulating hills Dungarpur

and tiny villages, trekking in the hills around Mt

Abu (p264) or Kumbalgarh (p259), and the barren
landscape surrounding Pushkar (p206).

ARTS & CRAFTS

Rajasthan’s desolate, muted landscape seemingly galvanises its inhabitants
to produce some of India’s most vivid paintings, textiles and jewellery.
DELHI Shekhawati’s small towns are packed with brilliantly painted havelis; in
Nawalgarh (p280) you can attend craft workshops, and you can take painting
Bikaner
Mandawa lessons at Jhunjhunu (p287).
Fatehpur Nawalgarh
Jaipur (p147) is the artistic nerve centre, with some wonderful shops and
Deshnok
SHEKHAWATI
Keoladeo
Ghana opportunities to see artisans, particularly jewellers, at work. Nearby is Sanganer
National
Park (p180), where you can visit workshops specialising in paper making and block
Phalodi Khichan
Nagaur Agra
Fatehpur
printing, and take block-printing or pottery lessons (p163). Also nearby is
Jaipur
Sikri the woodcarving centre of Bassi (p235). Kishangarh (p205) is renowned for
Jaisalmer
its production of miniature paintings.
Pushkar Ranthambhore
Around Jodhpur (p301), villagers produce
Jodhpur National Park woollen dhurries (rugs).
RAJASTHAN Udaipur (p240) is another major centre for the
Bundi
arts – a splendid place to buy miniatures, textiles, Bikaner Jhunjhunu
Ranakpur
woodcarving and jewellery, take lessons in paint- Nawalgarh

Chittorgarh
ing and see traditional dance. Outside the city is Jaipur
Bassi
Dilwara Temples Kumbalgarh Shilpgram (p247), which displays, demonstrates Jodhpur Sanganer
Mt
Abu and sells traditional handiwork. Barmer
Kishangarh
Udaipur
In the west, Barmer (p337) is another place to
see block printers at work, and in Bikaner (p338) Shilpgram
you can see artisans producing usta (gold-painted Udaipur
camel leather) work.
26 I T I N E R A R I E S • • Ta i l o re d T r i p s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com 27

RAJASTHAN’S WILD SIDE

You can wildlife-spot till you drop in Rajasthan’s beautiful sanctuaries,
commune with tamer creatures at regional festivals or ride them out
on safari.
World Heritage site Keoladeo Ghana National Park (p188) is one of the world’s
foremost bird sanctuaries. Rambling Ranthambhore National Park (p215) is one
of the best places in India to spot tigers. Though there are no tigers at Sariska
Tiger Reserve (p198), it is another scenic sanctuary protecting leopards, hyenas,
blue bulls and lots of birdlife.
Catch up with all the latest trends in camel fashion at the epic Pushkar
Camel Fair (p209) or the more business-oriented version at Nagaur (see
Festivals in Western Rajasthan, p301) in January/February. To get an
even closer look at Rajasthan’s ships of the
desert, take a camel safari from Jaisalmer (p330),
Khuri (p336), Osiyan (p317), Pushkar (p210) or
Bikaner (p343).
Keoladeo
Ghana
Going horse riding around Udaipur (p248) is
Bikaner
National a wonderful way to take in the countryside as
Khichan Park
Jaisalmer Nagaur Sariska well as some rural life. Between Udaipur and
Tiger
Osiyan Reserve Jodhpur, Kumbalgarh Wildlife Sanctuary (p259)
Khuri Pushkar offers some fantastic scenery and is famous for
Ranthambhore
Kumbalgarh National Park its wolves.
Wildlife
Sanctuary
Finally, do not miss Khichan, located between
Jaisalmer and Nagaur, where you can see the
Udaipur
spectacular sight of over 7000 demoiselle cranes
descending to feed on grain spread around for
them by villagers (see The Demoiselle Cranes
of Khichan p318).

FORT COLLECTING
Water may be a problem, but one thing Rajasthan’s not short of is forts.
You’ll definitely want to bag as many of these architectural wonders on
your trip as you can.
Delhi (p88) is a good place to start on your fort-finding mission, with the
city-centre Mughal Red Fort (p96). To the east, in Agra, is its red-sandstone
cousin, Agra Fort (p135), which contains exquisite Mughal buildings. For
something straight out of the Jungle Book, visit Ranthambhore Fort (p216),
perched on a craggy mountain in Ranthambhore National Park, surrounded
by jungle. At Sariska Tiger Reserve is Kankwari Fort (p198) – a fortified pip-
squeak compared to many others, but one that offers superb views. Taragarh
(p225) at Bundi is overgrown, crumbling and a
fantastic place for a ramble. Plateau-top Chittorgarh
(p236) is Rajasthan’s most legendary fort, contain-
ing palaces, temples and a mass of myths. Even
Delhi
more spectacular is Kumbalgarh (p259), a noble,
Bikaner
remote edifice between Udaipur and Jodhpur.
Sariska Tiger
Reserve Agra Near Jhalawar is little-visited Gagron Fort (p235),
Jaisalmer which towers over the confluence of two rivers.
Jodhpur Ranthambhore Most dramatic of all is Mehrangarh (p304) in
National Park
Jodhpur, rising from a rock face like an epic
Bundi
Kumbalgarh
Chittorgarh
movie set. Also striking is Jaisalmer (p324), the
Jhalawar golden sandstone fort that resembles a sand cas-
tle and is alive with inhabitants, while Bikaner’s
Junagarh (p339) claims the region’s most
spectacular interiors.
 © Lonely Planet Publications
4 5

On the Road

LINDSAY BROWN Coordinating Author

As a Lonely Planet author your path is not always your own. Publishers, editors, cartographers, previ-
ous authors, readers, even centuries-old trade routes have a habit of, if not mapping out your destiny,
then dictating your itinerary. Still, chance and serendipity, the predictable unpredictability of India and
perhaps even karma are daily companions providing distracting detours and temptations to lead you
astray. Following the hastily emailed directions of a reader, I weave through the narrow lanes of sky-blue
old Jodhpur and come face to face with Shiva.

AMELIA THOMAS It’s 7am, New Year’s Day, New

Delhi, and new baby (on the way in two-months’
time) is kicking hungrily for breakfast. Connaught
Place is – possibly for the first time ever – silent
and deserted. Except for a few post-party revellers
and a doorman shivering in the chilly air, we’re
the only ones wandering its once grand colon-
naded walkways. We savour the scent of wood
fires and watch hawks soaring over the central
park, then duck into a South Indian cubbyhole
restaurant. Delhi, one of my favourite cities, has
never seemed so serene – and dosas (lentil-flour
pancakes) have rarely tasted so good.

© Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
For full author biographies see p402.
© Lonely Planet Publications
26 27

History Anirban Mahapatra

A popular Indian saying goes that the state of Rajasthan alone has more
history than the rest of the country put together. Given that its name liter-
ally translates as ‘the land of kings’, perhaps the theory is true. Strewn with
fascinating palaces, forts and ruins, with a colourful and diverse culture to
boot, Rajasthan is an exotic land that intrigues as much as it enthrals. Throw
in the neighbouring medieval capitals of Delhi and Agra, and you’ve got a
heady cocktail laced with a thousand royal legends, potent enough to work
its charm on even the most prosaic of imaginations. Anirban Mahapatra is
But all good things come at a price. And Rajasthan, along with its neigh- a journalist, writer and
bouring areas, has had to pay heavily in the past in order to inherit the rich photographer based in
heritage it calls its own today. Over the centuries, the province has had to cope Delhi, and has travelled
with waves of ruthless invasions lashing in from the geographically vulnerable extensively through
northwest, and later the south. These raids, undertaken by everyone from Rajasthan and northern
treasure hunters to religious crusaders, have brought along their own share India during his three-
of carnage, vandalism and desecration. Uncertainty and political turmoil year stay in the Indian
have been a way of life here. Delhi, for instance, has been razed and rebuilt capital. His primary inter-
by different dynasties at least nine times throughout the ages. And the crisis ests include exploring the
has often been compounded by severe infighting among princely states in the multifaceted culture and
area. Ironically, it is this very streak of collective unrest that has contributed living tradition of India
immensely towards shaping the character of the terrain and its people, leaving and its people.
behind a legacy unparalleled by any other part of the nation.

BACK WHERE IT ALL BEGAN

Archaeologists have inferred that the desert and scrub areas of Rajasthan have
been home to humans for several thousand years. Excavations in Kalibangan,
near Ganganagar in northern Rajasthan, have unearthed terracotta pottery
and jewellery that date back to around 3000 BC, conclusively dating the earli-
est spread of settlements in the state to that time. Some of these urban centres
were presumably absorbed into the Harappan segment of the Indus Valley
The oldest natural relics
civilisation, where they flourished until the settlement was mysteriously
in Rajasthan are fossilised
abandoned 3700 years ago. The mass exodus, possibly triggered by flooding
remains of a 180-million-
or a severe climatic change, rendered Rajasthan devoid of human settlement
year-old forest, located at
for some time, until indigenous tribes such as the Bhils and the Minas moved
the Akal Wood Fossil Park
in to set up their own squabbling small kingdoms, thereby commencing the
(p337) in the Thar Desert
long history of argumentative neighbours in the region.
near Jaisalmer.
But even as the tribes tore away at each other, another civilisation was
sprouting in the fertile plains to the east of Rajasthan, between the riv-
ers Yamuna and Ganga (Ganges). Though their exact origins are difficult
to determine, the settlers in this fledgling colony are widely assumed to

c 2600–1700 BC c 1500 BC c 1000 BC

The heyday of the Indus Valley The Indo-Aryan civilisation Indraprastha, Delhi’s first
civilisation. Spanning parts takes root in the fertile plains incarnation, comes into being.
of Rajasthan, Gujarat and the of the Indo-Gangetic basin. Archaeological excavations
Sindh province in Pakistan, the The settlers here speak an at the site where the Purana
settlement takes shape around early form of Sanskrit, from Qila now stands continue even
metropolises such as Harappa which several Indian languages, today, as more facts regarding
and Mohenjo-Daro. including Hindi, later evolve. this ancient capital keep com-
ing to light.
 28 HISTORY •• Marauding Huns & the Advent of Kings lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com HISTORY •• Marauding Huns & the Advent of Kings 29

belong to a seminomadic race of Indo-European origin, who were known as spite of rigid social norms, which didn’t allow for any kind of self-promotion,
Aryans or ‘noblemen’. It was in this civilisation that Hinduism first evolved early Rajput clans such as the Gurjara Pratiharas crossed the caste barriers
as a religious tradition and a way of life, along with a complex patriarchal to proclaim themselves Kshatriyas, members of the warrior class, who came
The website www.har social structure and the tiered caste system that the greater Indian society second only to the Brahmins (priests) in the caste hierarchy.
appa.com provides an adheres to even today. By 1000 BC, the province had seen the establishment To facilitate their smooth transition through social ranks, and to avoid
illustrated yet scholarly of at least two prominent kingdoms: the Matsya territory of Viratnagar stinging criticism from the Brahmins, these early Rajput clans chose to jet-
coverage of everything encompassing Alwar, Bharatpur, Dholpur and Karauli; and Indraprastha, tison their worldly ancestry and took to trumpeting a mythological genealogy
you need to know about the earliest-known incarnation of Delhi, which was successively built on by that supposedly evolved from celestial origins. From the 6th century onward,
the ancient Indus Valley several dynasties to come. some of the clans began calling themselves Suryavanshis (Descendants of Upon losing Delhi to
civilisation, including the Little is known of Rajasthan’s development at this time. However, it was the Sun), while others chose to be known as Chandravanshis (Descendants the Afghans, Prithviraj
significance of recent an era that saw few incursions, as the mighty empires which were then of the Moon). A third dynasty, on the other hand, traced their roots to the Chauhan was captured
archaeological finds. strengthening their hold on the subcontinent, surprisingly, chose to pass on sacrificial fire that was lit on Mt Abu during the Mauryan era, thereby naming and taken back to
the state for one reason or another. Alexander the Great, who came to Asia themselves Agnivanshis (Fire-Born). Mohammed of Ghori’s
on his epic conquest, was forced to return when his troops, homesick and As the Rajputs slowly consolidated their grip over Rajasthan, they earned court in Ghazni, where
weary after the campaign, convinced him to retreat. The Mauryan empire a reputation for their chivalry, noble traditions and strict code of conduct. he was later blinded and
(323–185 BC) had minimal impact too, largely due to its most renowned Their sense of honour matched perhaps only by Arthurian knights or the killed.
emperor, Ashoka, taking to nonviolent ways after he converted to Buddhism. Japanese samurai, the Rajputs gave rise to several well-known dynasties, who
In stark contrast to the atrocities he had inflicted on the eastern Indian in turn established some of the most renowned princely states of Rajasthan.
kingdom of Kalinga, the only evidence Ashoka left of his reign in Rajasthan The largest of these kingdoms, and the third largest in India after Kashmir
The concepts of zero were Buddhist caves and stupas (Buddhist shrines; p235) near Jhalawar, and Hyderabad, was Marwar. Founded by the Suryavanshi Rathores who rode
and infinity are widely rock-cut edicts at Bairat, an ancient Buddhist site near Sariska (p198), and in from Uttar Pradesh, it was initially ruled from Mandore, before the seat
believed to have been a 13m-high pillar he inscribed in Delhi (p99). of power was relocated to the Mehrangarh Fort (p304) in nearby Jodhpur.
devised by eminent The Sisodias migrated from Gujarat to assemble in the folds of the Aravalli
Indian mathematicians MARAUDING HUNS & THE ADVENT OF KINGS Hills to the south, where they formed the state of Mewar (see boxed text, p32)
such as Aryabhatta and The insulation that Rajasthan enjoyed through its early years came to an encompassing Chittorgarh and Udaipur. The Kachhwahas, from Gwalior in
Varahamihira during the abrupt end during the 5th century AD, when armies of fierce Hun warriors Madhya Pradesh, settled in Jaipur in eastern Rajasthan, their capital nestled
reign of the Guptas. rode in from Central Asia to carry out a series of pillaging raids across north in the twin fort complex of Amber (p178) and Jaigarh (p179). Meanwhile,
India. These raids were to alter the course of the region’s history in two major a fourth kingdom, called Jaisalmer, was established in the Thar Desert by
ways. To begin with, they resulted in the disintegration of the Gupta dynasty, the Bhattis, who belonged to the lunar dynasty. Obscured by the dunes, the
which had taken over from the Mauryas as a central power and had reigned Bhattis remained more or less entrenched in their kingdom until Jaisalmer
over the country 320–550. But more importantly, they triggered a parallel was integrated into the state of Rajasthan after Independence.
invasion, as the Rajputs finally came to make Rajasthan their home and, in Over the years, Rajasthan saw the mushrooming of many other smaller
the absence of an overarching monarchy, grew from strength to strength to dynasties, each of which staked claim to its own patch of territory in the
Rajput armies primarily usher in the golden age of Rajasthan. region and ruled with complete autonomy, often refusing to submit to the
consisted of cavalries. Historical evidence suggests that the Rajputs (their name meaning ‘chil- whims of the bigger kingdoms. A few temporary alliances forged through
They were known to dren of kings’) fled their homelands in Punjab, Haryana, Gujarat and Uttar cosmetic treaties or marriages didn’t help much, as their fierce sense of
breed pedigree horses Pradesh to settle in Rajasthan, primarily to escape the wrath of the White pride and independence kept these states from growing and functioning as
such as the Marwari and Huns (and later the Arabs) who had begun to storm in from Pakistan and a unified force. Besides, the clans were so content with their tiny fiefdoms
Kathiawari, which were Afghanistan. Once they had arrived in Rajasthan, the Rajputs trampled that they rarely thought of looking beyond their borders to explore and
inducted into their forces. over the Bhils and Minas, and set up their own small fiefdoms in the face of conquer newer territories.
mounting local chaos. Though they largely belonged to the lower rungs of One dynasty, however, proved to be an exception. The Chauhans, who
Hindu society, volatile circumstances demanded that the Rajputs don the belonged to the Agnivanshi race, moved in from Gujarat around the 8th cen-
role of warriors, if only to fend off further advances by foreign invaders. So in tury to settle in the city of Ajmer, from where they gradually extended their

c 540 BC 326 BC 323–185 BC AD 320–550 AD 500–600 1024

The writing of the Mahabharata Alexander the Great invades India comes under the rule of The period of the Gupta The emergence of the Rajputs Mahmud of Ghazni raids India
begins. The longest epic in the India. He defeats Porus in the Maurya kings. Founded dynasty, the second of India’s in Rajasthan. Stemming from for the last time, ransacking
world, it takes nearly 250 years Punjab to enter the subconti- by Chandragupta Maurya, this great monarchies after the three principal races suppos- on this occasion the Somnath
to complete, and mentions set- nent, but a rebellion within his Pan-Indian empire is ruled from Mauryas. This era is marked by edly of celestial origin, they Temple in Gujarat, where he
tlements such as Indraprastha, army keeps him from advanc- Pataliputra (Patna), and briefly a creative surge in literature form 36 separate clans who purportedly smashes the idol
Pushkar and Chittorgarh. ing beyond the Beas River in adopts Buddhism during the and the arts. spread out to claim their own with his own hands.
Himachal Pradesh. reign of Ashoka. kingdoms across the region.
 30 HISTORY •• The Sword of Islam lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com H I S T O R Y • • A n Ag e o f T re a c h e r y a n d E x p l o i t s 31

empire across the neighbouring states of Haryana and Uttar Pradesh. Within of the region, and founded the Mamluk or Slave dynasty, giving Delhi the
Rajasthan, the Hada offshoot of the Chauhans crossed over to the Hadoti first of its many Islamic monarchies.
region and captured the cities of Bundi and Kota, while the Deora branch
took over the nearby Sirohi area, making way for successive generations to AN AGE OF TREACHERY & EXPLOITS
zero in on the provinces of Ranthambore, Kishangarh and Shekhawati. The The enthronement of Qutb-ud-din Aibak flagged off the Sultanate era of While the construction of
most illustrious of the Chauhan kings, Prithviraj III, went a notch further by Delhi, which lasted for about 350 years. Throughout this period, Delhi was the Qutb Minar in Delhi
leading his troops to invade Delhi, which had been reduced to insignificance ruled by six different Islamic dynasties, with a break between 1526 and 1540, was started by Qutb-ud-
after the fall of Indraprastha and was being governed by local chieftains. Keen when Delhi was captured by the Mughals. The six dynasties produced a din Aibak in 1193, it was
to set up a new capital here, Prithviraj Chauhan commissioned the building line of 38 rulers, who gradually pushed the boundaries of their kingdoms to completed during the
of a settlement called Qila Rai Pithora, the ramparts of which can still be conquer new land. The whole of the Gangetic basin soon came under the reign of Firoz Shah, more
seen near the Qutb Minar (p126) in Mehrauli. One of the few Hindu kings Sultanates’ control, as did Rajasthan and Gujarat – the princely states there than 150 years later.
to hold fort in Delhi, Prithviraj Chauhan administered his empire from the had little option but to bow down to their might.
twin capitals of Qila Rai Pithora and Ajmer, before his reign was put to an Apart from expanding their empire, the Sultanate kings also significantly
end by Islamic warriors, who galloped in by the thousands to change the urbanised Delhi. The Mamluks created the city of Mehrauli, whose most
face of the region forever. famous monument is the Qutb Minar. The Khiljis, on their part, seated their
capital at Siri (p89). The Tughlaqs constructed the forts of Tughlaqabad
THE SWORD OF ISLAM (p126) and Firoz Shah Kotla (p99), while Sher Shah Suri, the most renowned
Some 400 years after Prophet Mohammed had introduced Islam into Arabia, of the Sur kings, chose to rule from Shergarh, built on the site of the Purana The eccentric Tughlaq
northern India saw the arrival of Muslim crusaders. It was to be expected. Qila (p104) which he had won from the Mughal emperor Humayun. emperor Mohammed
With the banner of Islam fluttering high, the crusaders had taken over the Despite the glorious developments, however, the Sultanate era was marked Tughlaq reduced Delhi
province of Sindh (in Pakistan) long ago, and, once they had managed to by prolonged phases of political turmoil and administrative tension. Having to a ghost town for two
occupy Ghazni in neighbouring Afghanistan, it was obvious that India would become the jewel of foreign eyes, Delhi was persistently being attacked from years by moving the en-
figure next on their agenda. So at the beginning of the 11th century, zealous the northwest by Mongol, Persian, Turk and Afghan raiders, who all wanted tire population to a new
Turk warriors led by the fearsome Sultan Mahmud of Ghazni descended to set up their own outposts in the city. Within the empire, stability had given capital called Daulatabad,
upon India, razing hundreds of Hindu temples and plundering the region way to turncoat politics, conspiracy and internal strife, as deceitful kings more than 1100km away
to take away vast amounts of wealth to fill their coffers back home. The contrived bloody assassinations and coups to either remove or upstage their in the Deccan.
Turks made their raids into India almost an annual affair, ransacking the predecessors. Things got murkier with time, until two noblemen who were
northern part of the country 17 times in as many years. Jolted out of their disgraced by Emperor Ibrahim Lodi decided to get even with the Sultan by
Razia Sultana, who internal bickering, the Rajput princes organised some hasty defence, but inviting Babur, prince of Kabul, to invade Delhi. Ironically, in plotting their
headed the Mamluks their army was torn to shreds even before they could retaliate. Rajasthan revenge, the two men unknowingly paved the way for the most celebrated
from 1236 to 1240, was had been lost to Islam. Islamic dynasty to roll into India.
the only woman ever Delhi, located further east, was initially spared the wrath of the crusaders, To improve connectivity
to reign in Delhi. She as the Sultan largely confined his raids to Rajasthan and parts of Gujarat. ENTER THE MUGHALS within his kingdom, Sher
was dislodged from the Trouble, however, came by the name of Mohammed of Ghori, governor of Babur, whose Turkic-Mongol lineage included great warriors such as Genghis Shah Suri built the Grand
throne by her brother, Ghazni, who invaded India in the late 12th century, taking up where his Khan and Timur the Lame, marched into India through Punjab, defeating Trunk Road, the oldest
Bahram Shah. predecessor had left off. He was thwarted on his first campaign by Prithviraj Ibrahim Lodi in the First Battle of Panipat (1526) to establish the Mughal and longest road in the
Chauhan, but the resolute Ghori returned a year later to defeat the Rajput dynasty in the country. Once he had seized Delhi, Babur focused his attention subcontinent, which runs
king in the Second Battle of Tarain. Having convincingly stamped his vic- on Rajasthan, where many princely states, anticipating his moves, had already from Bengal to Peshawar
tory over the region, Ghori trotted back to Ghazni, leaving Delhi under the banded together to form a united front under the Sisodia king Rana Sanga. in Pakistan.
governorship of Qutb-ud-din Aibak, a former Turk slave who had risen to Taking advantage of the chaos in Delhi, the Rajputs had meanwhile clawed
command forces in India. When news of Ghori’s death arrived in Delhi a back in the power race, and states such as Mewar had become formidable
decade and a half later, Qutb-ud-din shrugged off competition from rivals to enough to pose a considerable threat to the rulers of Delhi. Babur, however,
stake claim to the Indian part of Ghori’s empire. He declared himself Sultan squared everything by defeating the Rajput alliance in a blood-spattered battle

1192 1206 1303 1398 1498 1504

Prithviraj Chauhan loses Delhi Ghori is murdered during a Ala-ud-din Khilji sacks Chit- Timur the Lame invades Delhi, Vasco da Gama, a Portuguese Agra is founded on the banks
to Mohammed of Ghori. The prayer session while returning torgarh with the intention of on the pretext that the Sul- voyager, discovers the sea of the Yamuna by Sikandar
defeat effectively ends Hindu to Ghazni from a campaign in carrying away the beautiful tans of Delhi are too tolerant route from Europe to India. He Lodi. Its glory days begin when
supremacy in the region, Lahore. In the absence of an Sisodia queen Padmini. The with their Hindu subjects. He arrives in Kerala and engages in Akbar makes it his capital, and
exposing Rajasthan and the heir, his kingdom is usurped by queen immolates herself to executes more than 100,000 trade with the local kings. the city is briefly called Akbara-
subcontinent to subsequent his generals. The Delhi Sultan- escape humiliation – the first Hindu captives before the bat- bad during his reign.
Muslim invaders trooping in ate is born. recorded instance of sati in tle for Delhi.
from the northwest. Rajasthan.
 32 HISTORY •• Enter the Mughals lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com H I S T O R Y • • T h e L a s t o f t h e M u g h a l G re a t s 33

and, being a master diplomat, used both tact and military force to expand
THE INDOMITABLE SISODIAS and consolidate the Mughal empire in India. Realising that the Rajputs could Driven by nostalgia,
In a region where invasions and political upheavals were historical norms, the Sisodias of Mewar not be conquered on the battlefield alone, Akbar arranged a marriage alliance Babur ordered his archi-
stood out as an exception, using everything from diplomacy to sheer valour to retain an iron with a princess of the important Kachhwaha clan which held Amber (and tects to design a series
grip over their land. Pillage and blood baths notwithstanding, the dynasty administered its king- later Jaipur), and even chose Rajput warriors to head his armies. Honoured of gardens across Delhi
dom in southern Rajasthan without a hiatus for some 1400 years. Lorded over by 76 monarchs by these gestures, the Kachhwahas, unlike other Rajputs, aligned themselves in a way that they would
throughout the ages, the Sisodias also enjoy the rare distinction of having had one of the longest- with the powerful Mughals, as Akbar indirectly succeeded in winning over remind him of his former
serving dynasties in the world. one of the biggest Rajput states. capital Kabul.
While they claim to be Suryavanshis, the lineage of the Sisodia kings can be traced back to Of course, when diplomacy didn’t work, Akbar resorted to war; he con-
a prince named Guhil, born to a Rajput queen sometime in the 6th century AD. Orphaned soon quered Ajmer, and later proceeded to take the mighty forts of Chittorgarh and
after birth and his kingdom ransacked by Huns, Guhil grew up among native Bhils in the forests Ranthambhore. Gradually, all the important Rajput states except Mewar had
of the Aravalli Hills. When he was 11, he forged an alliance with a Bhil chieftain to establish acknowledged Mughal sovereignty to become vassal states. But even as he was
a dynasty called the Guhilots. The chieftain also granted Guhil a tract of forested land in the well on his way to becoming the supreme ruler of India, Akbar became more
mountains, which was to later expand and flourish as the state of Mewar. tolerant in many ways. He married a Hindu Rajput princess and encouraged
The Guhilots shifted base from the hills in the 12th century to a place called Ahar. It was good relations between Hindus and Muslims, giving Rajputs special privileges
here that the family split, resulting in a breakaway faction that relocated to the town of Sissoda so that they were embraced within his empire. A monarch with great social Though Fatehpur Sikri
and rechristened themselves Sisodias. The separatists soon took over Chittorgarh, an ancient insight, he discouraged child marriage, banned sati (ritual suicide of a widow had every making of a
garrison which remained under their control (despite being attacked by Ala-ud-din Khilji) until on her husband’s funeral pyre) and arranged special market days for women. great capital, it had an
it was sacked by Mughal emperor Akbar in 1568. Though it came as a major military setback, Akbar’s reign also saw an unprecedented economic boom in the country, acute shortage of water
the Sisodias lost no time in retreating into the Aravalli Hills, where they put together a new apart from great development in art and architecture. which became so severe
capital called Udaipur (p240). A serenely beautiful city, Udaipur was never lost to the enemy, with time that Akbar was
and remained the capital of Mewar until the kingdom was absorbed into the state of Rajasthan THE LAST OF THE MUGHAL GREATS forced to move his seat of
following India’s Independence. Jehangir, Akbar’s son, was the next Mughal emperor (1605–27), and he ruled power to Agra.
Known for their resilience and courage, the Sisodias have been credited with producing some alongside his adored Persian wife, Nur Jahan, who wielded considerable
of the most flamboyant kings ever to have reigned in Rajasthan. The family boasts names such power and brought Persian influences to the court. Nur Jahan also commis-
as Rana Sanga, who died a valiant death in 1527 while fending off Mughal troops under Babur, sioned the beautiful Itimad-ud-Daulah (p136), the first Mughal structure to
and Maharana Pratap (1540–97), who made several daring though unsuccessful attempts to win be built in marble, in Agra for her parents. The Rajputs maintained cordial
Chittorgarh back from Akbar during his time in power. Being prolific builders, the Sisodias also relationships with the Mughals through Jehangir’s rule, a notable develop-
gave Mewar some of its finest structures, including the Victory Tower (p238) at Chittorgarh, the ment being that Udai Singh, king of Udaipur, ended Mewar’s reservations
grand City Palace (p244) in Udaipur, the elegant Monsoon Palace (p248) atop Sajjangarh Hill and about the Muslims by befriending Jehangir.
the spectacular Lake Palace (p243), which stands on an island amid the placid waters of Lake Good times, however, came to an end soon after Jehangir’s period in office,
Pichola, also in Udaipur. A part of the City Palace now houses a museum, open to the public, which as his descendants’ greater emphasis on Islam began to rock the relative peace Known for his religious
contains countless artefacts showcasing and documenting the glorious heritage of Mewar. in the region. Upon Jehangir’s death, the prince Khurram took over, assuming tolerance, Akbar
the title Shah Jahan, which meant ‘monarch of the world’. His reign was the propounded a cult
pinnacle of Mughal power. Like his predecessors, Shah Jahan was a patron of called Din-I-Ilahi, which
where several Rajput chiefs, including Rana Sanga, fell to the enemy’s wrath. the arts, and some of the finest examples of Mughal art and architecture were incorporated the best
The defeat, which shook the foundations of the Rajput states, also left the produced during his reign, including the Taj Mahal (p133), an extravagant elements of the two
When Timur sacked Delhi, Mughals as the undisputed rulers of northern India. work of extreme refinement and beauty. Shah Jahan also commenced work principal religions of his
he spared all the builders Mughal supremacy was briefly cut back in the mid-16th century by Sher on Delhi’s seventh incarnation, Shahjahanabad, constructing the Red Fort empire, Hinduism and
so that they could build Shah Suri, who defeated Babur’s successor Humayun to give Delhi its sixth (p96) and the Jama Masjid (p98). Islam.
him a city, much like the and final Sultanate. Humayun reclaimed Delhi 14 years later, and was suc- Unfortunately, the emperor harboured high military ambitions, and often
one he had plundered, ceeded upon his accidental death by his 13-year-old son Akbar. Known as bled the country’s financial resources to meet his whims. His exhaustion of
back in Samarkand. the greatest of the Mughal emperors, Akbar ruled for a period of 49 years, the state treasury didn’t go down well with the Rajputs, and towards the end

1526 1540 1568 1608 1631 1674

Babur conquers Delhi and stuns The Sur dynasty briefly cap- Akbar leads his army to Chit- Granted trading rights by way Construction of the Taj Mahal Shivaji establishes the Maratha
Rajasthan by routing its confed- tures Delhi from the Mughals, torgarh and wrests it from the of a royal charter, the first ships begins after Shah Jahan, kingdom, spanning western
erate force, gaining a techno- after Sher Shah Suri’s victory Sisodias. Udai Singh, then king of the British East India Com- overcome with grief following India and parts of the Deccan
logical edge on the battlefield over Humayun in the Battle of Mewar, survives the on- pany sail up the Arabian Sea to the death of his wife Mumtaz and north India. He assumes
due to the early introduction of of Kanauj. The loss forces the slaught and transfers his capital drop anchor at Surat in Gujarat. Mahal, vows to build the most the supercilious title of Chhat-
matchlock muskets in his army. Mughals to temporarily seek to the new city of Udaipur. beautiful mausoleum in the rapati, which means ‘Lord of
help from the Rajputs. world in her memory. the Universe’.
 34 H I S T O R Y • • M a r a t h a s & Pe r s i a n s R u n R i o t lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com HISTORY •• The British Drop Anchor 35

of Shah Jahan’s rule, the Rajputs and the Mughals had resigned to accept India around Africa in 1498. The British East India Company, a London
each other as unsatisfactory bedfellows. Things worsened when Aurangzeb trading firm that wanted a slice of the Indian spice trade (having seen
became the last great Mughal emperor in 1658, deposing his father who how well the Portuguese were doing), landed in India in the early 1600s.
died in imprisonment at the Musamman Burj (p136) in Agra eight years Granted trading rights by Jehangir, the company set up its first trading
later. An Islamic hardliner, Aurangzeb quickly made enemies in the re- outpost in Surat in Gujarat, and gradually went about extending its in-
gion. His zeal saw him devoting all his resources to extending the Mughal fluence across the country, harbouring interests that went beyond mere
empire’s boundaries. His government’s emphasis on Islam alienated his trade. Extraordinarily enough, this commercial firm ended up nominally
Hindu subjects. Aurangzeb imposed punitive taxes, banned the building of ruling India for 250 years.
William Dalrymple’s City
new temples, even destroying some, and forbade music and ceremonies at Sooner or later, all leading European maritime nations came and pitched
of Djinns is a wonderful
court. Challenges to his power mounted steadily as people reacted against tent in India. Yet none managed to spread out across the country as ef-
book that draws upon
his dour reign. And when he claimed his rights over Jodhpur in 1678, his ficiently as the British. The early English agents became well assimilated
his personal experiences
relations with the Rajputs turned into full-scale war. Before long, there was in India, learning Persian and intermarrying with local people, which gave
in Delhi, and chronicles
insurgency on all sides, which only increased as Aurangzeb died in 1707 them an edge over other European hopefuls. When the Mughal empire
the fascinating history
to leave the empire in the hands of a line of inefficient successors given to collapsed, they made a calculated political move, filling the power vacuum
of the city in its many
Bohemian excesses, who had little or no interest in running the state. The and taking over the reins of administration through a series of battles and
The booty carried back incarnations.
Mughal empire was on a one-way journey towards doom. alliances with local rulers. By the early 19th century, India was effectively
by Nadir Shah from India under British control, and the British government in London had begun
was so rich that, upon MARATHAS & PERSIANS RUN RIOT to take a more direct role in supervising affairs in India, while leaving the
reaching Iran, he relieved The death of Aurangzeb marked the beginning of Delhi’s Twilight Years, a East India Company to deal with day-to-day administrative duties.
his subjects from paying period through which the degenerating Mughal empire was laid to waste Outside British territory, the country was in a shambles. Bandits were
taxes for a period of three by the Marathas and the Persians. The Marathas had risen to prominence on the prowl in the rural areas, and towns and cities had fallen into decay.
years. between 1646 and 1680 led by the heroic Shivaji, under whom their empire The Marathas’ 32 raids in Rajasthan continued, and though the British at
was administered by the peshwas, or chief ministers, who later went on to first ignored the feuding parties, they soon spotted an opportunity for ex- The Doctrine of Lapse, a
become hereditary rulers. At a time when the Mughals were struggling to hold pansion and stepped into the fray. They negotiated treaties with the leaders policy formulated by Lord
their empire together, the Marathas trooped in from the south and gained of the main Rajput states, offering them protection from the Marathas in Dalhousie, enabled the
a stranglehold on Delhi, primarily by supplying regiments to the Mughal return for political and military support. The trick worked. Weakened by East India Company to
army who soon went out of control and began to take possession of the land. habitual wrangling and ongoing conflicts, the kings forfeited their inde- annex any princely state
Contemporary Mughal kings, who were both ineffective and cowardly, failed pendence in exchange for protection, and British residents were installed if its ruler was either
Captain James Tod’s to curb their unruly behaviour. The resulting confusion was capitalised on in the princely states. The British ultimately eliminated the Maratha threat, found incompetent or
Annals and Antiquities by the Persian invader Nadir Shah, who sacked Delhi in 1739 and robbed but, in the process, the Rajputs were effectively reduced to puppets. Delhi’s died without a direct heir.
of Rajasthan (published the city of much of its wealth. When the Marathas were unable to put up prominence as a national capital dwindled too, as the British chose to rule
1829-32) is a historical any resistance on behalf of the Mughals, they joined the Persians in pillaging the country from Calcutta (now Kolkata).
masterpiece, with the the capital. They soon sucked Delhi dry of all its treasures, and when there The later British authorities had an elitist notion of their own superiority
captain’s fascinating was nothing left to rob, the Marathas turned their eyes on Rajasthan. Raids that was to have a lasting impact on India. The colonisers felt that it was
observations on a region and skirmishes with the Rajputs followed; cities were sacked, lives were lost, their duty to civilise the nation, unlike the first agents of the East India
previously undocumented and the Marathas began to win large tracts of Rajput land in the state. The Company who had seen and recognised the value in India’s native culture.
by Europeans. absence of a central Indian authority only contributed to the mayhem, so During the first half of the 19th century, the British brought about radical
much so that India had to wait till the early 19th century for another invasion social reforms. They introduced education in the English language, which
to bring the country under a single umbrella once again. replaced Persian as the language of politics and governance. New roads and
canal systems were installed, followed by the foundation of schools and
THE BRITISH DROP ANCHOR universities modelled on the British system of education. In the later stages,
The British invaders came by the sea, following the Portuguese explorer they brought in the postal system, the telegraph and the railways, introduc-
Vasco da Gama, who had first discovered the sea route from Europe to tions that remain vital to the Indian administrative system today.

1707 1739 1756 1757 1857 1885

Death of Aurangzeb, the last of Nadir Shah plunders Delhi, and The rise of the notorious Jat Breaking out of its business The short-lived First War of The Indian National Congress,
the Mughal greats. His demise carries away with him the Pea- dynasty of Bharatpur in Rajas- mould, the East India Company Independence breaks out India’s first home-grown
triggers the gradual collapse of cock Throne as well as the Ko- than. Under the leadership of registers its first military victory across India. In the absence of political organisation, is set
the Mughal empire, as anarchy hinoor, a magnificent diamond Suraj Mahl and his son Jawahar on Indian soil. Siraj-ud-Daulah, a national leader, the rebels up. It brings educated Indians
and rebellion break out across which changes many hands to Singh, the Jats soon join the nawab of Bengal, is defeated coerce the last Mughal king together and plays a key role in
the country. eventually become property of Marathas and Persians in loot- by Robert Clive in the Battle of Bahadur Shah Zafar to proclaim India’s freedom struggle.
the British royalty. ing Delhi and Agra. Plassey. himself emperor of India.
 36 H I S T O R Y • • I n d e p e n d e n c e , Pa r t i t i o n & A f t e r lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com HISTORY •• Rajasthan is Born 37

But at the same time, British bureaucracy came with controversial policies. continues to be high up on the tourism map of India, as travellers throng the
Severe taxes were imposed on landowners and, as raw materials from India were city to visit its many historic sites and monuments.
used in British industry, cheap British-produced goods began to flood Indian The long history of insurgency and unrest in India did not end with
The 2005 film The Rising markets and destroy local livelihoods. Mass anger in the country began to rise, Independence. In 1962, India had a brief war with China over disputed border
retells the story of the and found expression in the First War of Independence in 1857. Soldiers and territories, and went on to engage in three battles with Pakistan over similar
1857 rebellion through peasants took over Delhi for four months and besieged the British Residency in issues. Political assassinations didn’t recede into history either. Mahatma Gandhi
the life and death of its Lucknow for five months before they were finally suppressed by the East India was slain soon after Independence by a Hindu extremist who hated his inclusive
most celebrated hero, the Company’s forces. Rajasthan also saw uprisings among the poor and middle philosophy. Indira Gandhi, India’s first woman prime minister, was gunned
soldier Mangal Pandey, classes, but there was little effect in the royal circles as Rajput kings continued down by her Sikh bodyguards in retaliation to her ordering the storming of the
played by Aamir Khan. to support the British, and were rewarded for their loyalty after the British Golden Temple, the holiest of Sikh shrines, in 1984. Her son, Rajiv, who suc-
government assumed direct control of the country the following year. ceeded her to the post of prime minister was also assassinated by Tamil terrorists
protesting India’s stance on Sri Lankan policies. Rajiv’s Italian-born widow,
INDEPENDENCE, PARTITION & AFTER Sonia, was the next of the Gandhis to take up the dynastic mantle of power. In
Following a lengthy freedom movement, India finally freed itself of British domi- 2004, she was chosen as president of the Congress Party, which has fed on the
nation in 1947. The road to Independence was an extraordinary one, influenced reputation and charisma of the Gandhis since its formative years and is currently
by Mohandas Karamchand Gandhi, later known as the Mahatma (Great Soul), a principal political alliance in one of the world’s largest democracies. India got its first
Mahatma Gandhi argued who galvanised the peasants and villagers into a nonviolent resistance that was president from the Dalit
that the leader of the to spearhead the nationalist movement. A lawyer by qualification, he caused RAJASTHAN IS BORN community when KR
Muslim League, Moham- chaos by urging people to refuse to pay taxes and boycott British institutions Ever since they swore allegiance to the British, the Rajput kingdoms subjugated Narayanan was sworn in
med Ali Jinnah, should and products. He campaigned for the Dalits (the lower classes of Hindu society, themselves to absolute British rule. Being reduced to redundancy, they also to office in 1997. The cur-
lead a united India if that who he called Harijans or the ‘Children of God’), and the rural poor, capturing chose to trade in their real power for pomp and extravagance. Consumption rent president, Pratibha
would prevent the parti- public imagination through his approach, example and rhetoric. The freedom took over from chivalry and, by the early 20th century, many of the kings were Patil, is the first woman
tion of the country. struggle gained such momentum under him that the British Labour Party, which spending their time travelling the world with scores of retainers, playing polo to hold the top post.
came to power in 1945, saw Indian independence as inevitable. The process of and occupying entire floors of expensive Western hotels. Many maintained
the handover of power was initiated, but Hindu-Muslim differences took their huge fleets of expensive cars, a fine collection of which can be seen in the
toll at this crucial moment, and saw the country being divided on religious lines, automobile museum in Udaipur (p240). While it suited the British to indulge
with Pakistan being formed to appease the Muslim League which sought to them, the maharajas’ profligacy was economically and socially detrimental to
distance itself from a Hindu-dominated country. their subjects, with the exception of a few capable rulers such as Ganga Singh
Prior to the change of guard, the British had shifted their capital out of of Bikaner. Remnants of the Raj (the British government in India before 1947)
The 24-spoke wheel, Calcutta (now Kolkata) and built the imperial city of New Delhi through can be spotted all over the region today, from the Mayo College in Ajmer to The Sariska and
an emblem designed the early 1900s, work on which was overseen by architect Edwin Lutyens. the colonial villas in Mt Abu, and black-and-white photographs, document- Ranthambhore tiger re-
by Ashoka, has been Meant to be an expression of British permanence, the city was speckled with ing chummy Anglo-Rajput hunting expeditions, which deck the walls of any serves, Rajasthan’s best-
adopted as the central grand structures such as the Rashtrapati Bhavan (p104), the Central Vista self-respecting heritage hotel in the state. known national parks,
motif on the national and hundreds of residential buildings that came to be known as Lutyens After Independence, from a security point of view, it became crucial for the were originally used as
flag of India, where it is Bungalows. After Independence, many of these Colonial buildings were used new Indian union to ensure that the princely states of Rajasthan were integrated private hunting grounds
rendered in blue against to house the brand-new Indian government, as Delhi was reinstated to its into the new nation. Most of these states were located near the vulnerable by the maharajas of
a white background. former status as the administrative and political capital of the country. India–Pakistan border, and it made sense for the government to push for a Alwar and Ranthambore
Agra, sadly, did not get as much recognition as its counterpart. Being merger that would minimise possibilities of rebellion in the region. Thus, when respectively.
predominantly a satellite capital, where power occasionally spilt over from the boundaries of the new nation were being chalked out, the ruling Congress
Delhi, the city had lost most of its political importance after the Mughals Party made a deal with the nominally independent Rajput states to cede power
had departed. In the modern context, it made little sense to invest it with to the republic. To sweeten the deal, the rulers were offered lucrative monetary
any kind of government machinery, so much so that it lost out to Lucknow returns and government stipends, apart from being allowed to retain their titles
when it came to selecting a state capital for Uttar Pradesh. Nonetheless, Agra and property holdings. Having fallen on hard times, the kings couldn’t but agree

1911 1947 1948 1948–56 1952 1992

Architect Edwin Lutyens begins India gains independence on Mahatma Gandhi is assassi- Rajasthan takes shape, as the The first elections are held in Hindu-Muslim rivalry rears its
work on New Delhi, the new- 15 August. Pakistan is formed nated during a public walk in princely states form a beeline Rajasthan, and the state gets its ugly head once again as the
est manifestation of Delhi, a day earlier. Partition is fol- New Delhi by Nathuram Godse to sign the Instrument of Acces- first taste of democracy after Babri Masjid, presumably built
subsequently considered in lowed by cross-border exodus, on 30 January. Godse and his sion, giving up their territories centuries of monarchical rule. by Babur on a Hindu shrine
architectural circles as one of as thousands of Hindus and co-conspirator Narayan Apte which are incorporated into the The Congress is the first party in Ayodhya, is demolished by
the finest garden cities ever to Muslims brave communal riots are later tried, convicted and newly formed Republic of India. to be elected into office. Hindu activists.
have been built. to migrate to their respective executed.
nations.
 38 HISTORY •• Rajasthan is Born lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com 39

with the government, and their inclination to yield to the Indian dominion
gradually brought about the formation of the state of Rajasthan.
To begin with, the state comprised only the southern and southeastern
states of Rajasthan. Mewar was one of the first kingdoms to join the union.
Udaipur was initially the state capital, with the maharaja of Udaipur becoming
rajpramukh (head of state). The Instrument of Accession was signed in 1949,
and Jaipur, Bikaner, Jodhpur and Jaisalmer were then merged, with Jaipur as
the state’s new capital. Later that year, the United State of Matsya was incor-
Discover the bygone
porated into Rajasthan. The state finally burgeoned to its current dimensions
days of Rajasthan’s
in November 1956, with the additions of Ajmer-Merwara, Abu Rd and a tract
royalty in A Princess
of Dilwara, originally part of the princely state of Sirohi that had been divided
Remembers, the memoirs
between Gujarat and Rajasthan. Rajasthan is now India’s largest state.
of Gayatri Devi, maharani
The fate of the royal families of Rajasthan since Independence has been
of Jaipur. Cowritten by
mixed. A handful of the region’s maharajas have continued their wasteful
Santha Rama Rau, it’s an
ways, squandering away their fortunes and reducing themselves to abject
enthralling read.
poverty. A few zealous ones, who hated to see their positions of power go,
have switched to politics and become members of leading political parties
in India. Some have skipped politics to climb the rungs of power in other
well-known national institutions, such as sports administration bodies or
charitable and nonprofit organisations in the country. Only a few have chosen
to lead civilian lives, earning a name for themselves as fashion designers,
cricketers or entertainers.
The majority of kings, however, have refused to let bygones be bygones,
and have cashed in on their heritage by opening ticketed museums for tourists
and converting their palaces to lavish hotels. With passing time, the luxury
hospitality business has begun to find more and more takers from around
the world. The boom in this industry can be traced back to 1971, when Indira
Gandhi, then India’s Prime Minister, abolished the privileges granted to the
Rajasthan princes at the time of accession. Coming as a massive shock to
those at the top of the pile, the snipping of the cash cord forced many kings
to inadvertently join the long list of heritage hotel owners.
In spite of the abolition, many kings choose to continue using their royal
titles for social purposes till this day. While these titles mean little more than
status symbols in the modern context, they still help in garnering enormous
respect from the common public. On the other hand, nothing these days quite
evokes the essence of Rajput grandeur as much as a stay in palatial splendour
surrounded by vestiges of the regal age, in places such as the Rambagh Palace
(p158) in Jaipur and the Umaid Bhawan Palace (p306) in Jodhpur. Not all the
royal palaces of Rajasthan are on the tourist circuit, though. Many of them
continue to serve as residences for erstwhile royal families, and some of the
mansions that were left out of the tourism pie are crumbling away, ignored
and neglected, their decaying interiors empty and full of bats.

1998 2004 2007

India declares itself a nuclear A deadly tsunami strikes the India and the US release the
power after conducting under- eastern shores of India on 26 draft of the 123 Agreemeent
ground tests near the town of December, killing more than for mutual exchange of nuclear
Pokaran in Rajasthan. Pakistan 15,000 people. power and logistics. The draft
follows suit, and the twin tests is widely criticised by Indian
subject the subcontinental opposition parties.
neighbours to global
condemnation.
38 lonelyplanet.com 39

The Culture Anirban Mahapatra

RAJASTHANI IDENTITY
It’s not the turbaned maharajas, or the self-obsessed white-collars, or even
the stereotypical beggars, for that matter. The first people you run into upon
your arrival in Rajasthan or Delhi are a jostling bunch of overly attentive
locals, who ambush you the moment you step out of the airport or the railway
station to drown you in a sea of unsolicited offers. Great hotels, taxi rides at The common gesture
half price, above-the-rate currency exchange…the list drags on, interspersed used to greet strangers
with beaming smiles you would only expect from long-lost friends. Famed in India is that of joining
Indian hospitality at work? This is no reception party; the men are touts palms at chest-level in a
out on their daily rounds, trying to wheedle a few bucks off unsuspecting namaste. Women gener-
travellers, and most of them can lie through their teeth. There’s no way ally don’t shake hands,
you can escape them, though a polite but firm ‘no thank you’ often stands unlike some men.
you in good stead under such circumstances. It’s a welcome each and every
newcomer is accorded in India.
It’s hard not to get put off by the surprise mobbing. But brush it off anyway,
and don’t let the incident make you jump to the hasty conclusion that every
local, given half a chance, is out to hound the daylights out of you. Walk out
of the terminal and into the real India, and things suddenly come across as
strikingly different. With little stake in your activities, the people you now
meet are genuinely warm (even if overtly curious), hospitable and sometimes
helpful beyond what you’d call mere courtesy. For example, someone might
volunteer to show you around a monument expecting absolutely nothing Moustachioed personnel
in return. And while it’s advisable to always keep your wits about you (see in some troops of the
the boxed text, p44), going with the flow often helps you understand the Indian Army, such as the
north-Indian psyche better, apart from making your trip to the region all Rajput regiment, are paid
the more memorable. a monthly allowance of
Broadly speaking, people in North India are easy to get along with. Punjabi- Rs 100 to maintain their
dominated Delhi has an inherent back-slapping culture where friendship is whiskers.
quickly forged over a stiff whisky. Rajasthan, on the other hand, is surpris-
ingly cosmopolitan. Most rickshaw pullers in Jaipur or Udaipur have picked
up a European language or three to attract more tourist dollars. And in spite
of adhering to a rigid social code among themselves, Rajasthanis are willing
to make concessions for tourists in more ways than one. Remember, it’s the
dollars brought in by travellers that makes much of the region’s economy
tick, and there’s no way the locals are going to upset the apple cart.
The spin-off, however, is that Rajasthanis often tend to overdo things to
play up their fabled identity built on chivalry and fortitude, if only to preserve
an image that the world is willing to pay to see. From growing ornamental
moustaches to weaving tall tales about their glorious ancestry, the people here
leave no stone unturned in showcasing their regal past. But then, maybe it’s The number of mobile
just as well, for what would Rajasthan be without its history anyway? phone connections in
India is currently upward
DAILY LIFE of 75 million, and is ex-
Contemporary Culture pected to grow to about
Urbanity and exposure to the outside world notwithstanding, North Indian 600 million by 2012.
society remains conservative at heart. Cities such as Delhi and Jaipur may
have acquired a liberal sheen on the outside, thanks to globalisation, but
within the walls of a typical home, little has changed through time. The man
of the house still calls the shots; conversations relating to sex don’t make
it to dinner table; and moving in with a partner is considered immoral, if
not a sign of blatant promiscuity. Western influences are apparent in the
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