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Lonely Planet Bolivia 2010 7th Edition Anja Mutic Digital
Instant Download
Author(s): Anja Mutic, Kate Armstrong, Paul Smith
ISBN(s): 9781741049985, 1741049989
Edition: 7
File Details: PDF, 28.87 MB
Year: 2010
Language: english
 © Lonely Planet                                                                         9
                          Contents
                           On the Road             4   Muela del Diablo
                                                       Valle de las Ánimas
                                                                                        91
                                                                                        92
                                                       Cañón de Palca                   92
                                                       Chacaltaya                       93
                           Bolivia Highlights     5    Tiwanaku                         93
                                                       The Cordilleras
                           The Culture            32   & Yungas                    117
                                                       THE YUNGAS                     119
                           Food & Drink           42   Coroico
                                                       El Choro Trek
                                                                                      119
                                                                                      124
                                                       Yolosita                       126
                           Environment            49   Yolosa
                                                       Takesi (Taquesi) Trek
                                                                                      126
                                                                                      127
                                                       Yunga Cruz Trek                129
                           Outdoors               54   Chulumani                      129
                                                       Around Chulumani               132
                                                       Sorata                         133
                           La Paz                 60   El Camino del Oro
                                                       (Gold Digger’s Trail)          136
                           History                61
                                                       Mapiri Trail                   138
                           Orientation            61
                                                       Guanay                         139
                           Information            63
                                                       Aucapata & Iskanwaya           140
                           Dangers & Annoyances   66
                                                       Caranavi                       140
                           Sights                 67
                                                       CORDILLERA REAL                141
                           Activities             74
                                                       Huayna Potosí                  141
                           Courses                74
                                                       Illimani                       142
                           Tours                  74
                                                       Condoriri Massif               143
                           Festivals & Events     76
                                                       Ancohuma                       144
                           Sleeping               77
                                                       CORDILLERA
                           Eating                 81   APOLOBAMBA                     144
                           Drinking & Clubbing    84   Charazani                      144
                           Entertainment          84   Área Natural de Manejo
                           Shopping               85   Integrado Nacional
                                                       (Anmin) Apolobamba             146
                           Getting There & Away   87
                                                       Lagunillas to Agua Blanca
                           Getting Around         88   (Curva to Pelechuco) Trek      147
                           AROUND LA PAZ          89   CORDILLERA QUIMSA
                           Valle de la Luna       89   CRUZ                           150
                           Mallasa                90   Activities                     150
                           Valencia & Mecapaca    90   Getting There & Away           150
     Oruro                  153
                                       Gran Chiquitania        261       Embassies & Consulates
                                                                         Festivals & Events
                                                                                                       331
                                                                                                       332
     Around Oruro           162        Santa Cruz                 263    Food                          333
     Parque Nacional Sajama 163        Buena Vista                273    Gay & Lesbian Travelers       333
     Around Parque Nacional            Parque Nacional & Área            Holidays                      333
     Sajama                 165        de Uso Múltiple Amboró     276
                                                                         Insurance                     334
     SOUTHWESTERN BOLIVIA 165          Santa Cruz to Samaipata    278
                                                                         Internet Access               334
     Uyuni                  166        Samaipata                  278
                                                                         Legal Matters                 334
     Around Uyuni           173        Around Samaipata           283
                                                                         Maps                          334
     THE SOUTHWEST CIRCUIT 173         Vallegrande                283
                                                                         Money                         334
     Salar de Uyuni         174        Pucará                     284
                                                                         Photography & Video           336
     Other Southwest                   La Higuera                 285
                                                                         Post                          336
     Attractions            177        GRAN CHIQUITANIA           286
                                                                         Shopping                      336
     Tupiza                 180        Jesuit Missions Circuit    287
                                                                         Solo Travelers                337
     Around Tupiza          185        Far Eastern Bolivia        291
                                                                         Telephone                     337
                                       Quijarro                   292
                                                                         Time                          339
     Central Highlands      188                                          Toilets                       339
     Cochabamba                  190   Amazon Basin            294       Tourist Information           339
     Parque Nacional Tunari      201   CHAPARE REGION              297   Travelers with Disabilities   339
     Cochabamba Valley           202   Villa Tunari                297   Visas                         339
     Incallajta                  205   Parque Nacional Carrasco 300      Women Travelers               340
     Totora                      206   Puerto Villarroel           300   Work & Volunteering           341
     Mizque                      206   WESTERN BOLIVIAN
                                       AMAZON                      301
     Aiquile
     Parque Nacional Torotoro
                                 207
                                 207   Rurrenabaque                301   Transportation           342
     Sucre                       210   San Buenaventura            307   GETTING THERE & AWAY          342
     Tarabuco                    222   Parque Nacional Madidi      308   Entering the Country          342
     Candelaria                  223   San Borja                   308   Air                           342
     Cordillera de los Frailes   223   Reserva Biosférica del Beni 309   Land & River                  345
     Potosí                      227   San Ignacio de Moxos        310   GETTING AROUND                346
     Around Potosí               241   EASTERN BOLIVIAN                  Air                           346
                                       AMAZON                      312   Bicycle                       347
                                       Trinidad                    312   Boat                          347
     South Central                     Puertos Almacén & Varador 317     Bus                           347
     Bolivia & the Chaco 243           Santuario Chuchini
                                       Reserva de Vida Silvestre
                                                                   317   Car & Motorcycle              348
     SOUTH CENTRAL BOLIVIA       245                                     Hitchhiking                   349
                                       Ríos Blanco y Negro         318
     Tarija                      245                                     Local Transportation          349
                                       Parque Nacional Noel
     San Jacinto Reservoir       253   Kempff Mercado              318   Train                         350
     San Lorenzo                 253   THE NORTHERN                      Tours                         350
                                       FRONTIER                    323
     El Valle de la Concepción   254
                                       Guayaramerín                323
     Padcaya & Chaguaya
     Reserva Biológica
                                 254
                                       Riberalta                   324   Health                   352
     Cordillera de Sama          254   Riberalta to Cobija         326   BEFORE YOU GO                 352
     Reserva Nacional de               Cobija                      326   Insurance                     352
     Flora y Fauna Tariquía      255                                     Medical Checklist             352
     THE CHACO
     Yacuiba
                                 256
                                 256   Directory               328       Online Resources
                                                                         Further Reading
                                                                                                       353
                                                                                                       353
     Villamontes                 257   Accommodations             328    IN TRANSIT                    353
     Parque Nacional y Área            Activities                 329    Deep Vein Thrombosis          353
     Natural de Manejo                 Business Hours             330
     Integrado Aguaragüe         258                                     Jet Lag & Motion Sickness     354
                                       Children                   330    IN BOLIVIA                    354
     Reserva Privada de
     Patrimonio Natural de             Climate Charts             330    Availability & Cost of
     Corbalán                    259   Customs                    331    Healthcare                    354
     Camiri                      259   Dangers & Annoyances       331    Infectious Diseases           354
                   © Lonely Planet. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted.
                   In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other
                   words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know,
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                   right thing with our content.’
     © Lonely Planet
     4
On the Road
                              Destination Bolivia
                              A place of mind-boggling superlatives, landlocked Bolivia really packs a
                              punch. The hemisphere’s highest, most isolated and most rugged nation,
                              it’s among the earth’s coldest, warmest and windiest spots, with some
                              of the driest, saltiest and swampiest natural landscapes in the world.
                              It’s also a land of paradoxes: South America’s poorest country, Bolivia
                              is the richest on the continent in natural resources. But the superlatives
                              don’t end here. Over 60% of the population claim indigenous heritage,
                              including Aymará, Quechua and Guaraní, making it South America’s
                              most indigenous country.
                                  Bolivia’s natural treasures are many and marvelous, from soaring
                              mountain peaks and surreal salt flats to steamy jungles and wildlife-rich
                              grasslands. Exploring the cultural aspect – the country’s vibrant ancient
                              traditions and preserved colonial cities – offers unparalleled delight. Most
                              visitors stick to the well-worn paths of the Altiplano, but there’s plenty to
                              see and do elsewhere, from dense rainforests to snowcapped cordilleras.
                              While Bolivia is now well and truly on the travelers’ radar, it’s still largely
                              raw and undeveloped. This may be a boon for intrepid travelers, but it’s a
                              perennial source of problems for Bolivians – notable changes have been
                              sweeping Bolivia’s formidable landscapes in the last few years.
                                  Since 2005, Bolivia has been undergoing a revolution of sorts virtually
                              synonymous with former cocalero (coca grower) Evo Morales, Bolivia’s
                              first indigenous president. In January 2009, he pushed through a ground-
                              breaking new constitution. Approved in a nationwide referendum by 67%
                              of the population, it grants previously unheard-of rights to the country’s
                              indigenous majority and allows the president to seek a second five-year
                              term in office.
                                  This was stellar news for the working classes and the indigenous
                              population of the western highlands but not for everyone in Bolivia. In
                              fact, many middle- and upper-class Bolivians, especially in the energy-
                              rich eastern provinces, are vehemently critical of Morales’ anticapitalist
                              stands and socialist ideologies. This opposition led to violent protests in
                              autonomy-hungry Santa Cruz in September 2008 (with 11 dead), and the
                              alleged attempt at presidential assassination in April 2009.
                                  Another hot topic is the trial of former president, ‘Goni’ Sánchez de
                              Lozada, who stands accused, together with 16 members of his cabinet,
                              for 67 deaths during the 2003 protests in La Paz. The trial opened in May
                              2009 in absentia; Goni still lives in Maryland and the unheeded request
                              to the US for extradition is one of several sore points (including the
                              controversial coca) between Bolivia and the USA. Since the diplomatic
                              talks in spring 2009, the worn ties between the two have been on the
                              slow mend.
                                  In addition to Bolivia’s internal strife, Morales has other things on
                              his plate, such as the management of Bolivia’s so far untapped lithium
                              reserves (the world’s largest) and the election in December 2009. With
                              his approval ratings still high, at presstime it looked like he was in for a
                              second term. How he will manage to keep his polarized country in check
                              remains to be seen. As the Bolivians themselves say, vamos a ver…
     Getting Started
     Travelers can no longer be smug about ‘discovering’ Bolivia; it’s well
     and truly on the traveler’s map for those who visit South America.
     Having said that, most stick to the more accessible and well-worn routes
     and don’t give it the attention it warrants. For the more motivated and
     curious traveler, this means there will be plenty of stimulation if you
     venture off the tourist track – it’s so easy to do. All travelers to Bolivia
     will be delighted by the multilayered, rich and varied cultures, stunning
     natural beauty, and unforgettable experiences and characters. Adventure
     nuts will also be well sated: there are plenty of opportunities for outdoor
     action, with a wide variety of luxury levels and travel choices on offer. The      See climate charts (p330)
     going isn’t always easy, but the rewards are well worth the effort.                for more information.
     WHEN TO GO
     Travelers will encounter just about every climatic zone, from stifling
     humidity and heat to arctic cold. Summer (November to April) is the
     rainy season, when overland transportation becomes difficult if not
     impossible in some areas. The most popular, and arguably most comfort-
     able, time for exploring the whole country is during the dry, clear days
     of winter (May to October).
        Most of Bolivia lies as near to the equator as Tahiti or Hawaii, but
     its elevation and unprotected expanses result in unpredictable weather.
     Bolivia’s two poles of climatic extremes are Puerto Suárez with its over-
     whelming heat, and Uyuni with its icy, cold winds. But there are no
     absolutes; there are times when you can sunbathe in Uyuni and freeze
     in Puerto Suárez.
        Summer (rainy season) in the lowlands can be utterly miserable, with
     mud, high humidity, biting insects and relentless tropical downpours.
     However, washed-out roads means there is an increase in river transpor-
     tation, making this the best time to hop on a cargo boat. Winter in the
     Altiplano means extreme heat during the day, and freezing winds and
     subzero temperatures at night. The highland valleys are refuges, having
     a comfortable climate and little rain year round.
                                   August is the most popular month of the high tourist season, which
                                 runs from late May to early September. High season sees the most reli-
                                 able weather and coincides with European and North American summer
                                 holidays. It’s also when most of Bolivia’s major festivals take place, so
                                 many Bolivians and South Americans travel at this time as well. This can
                                 be an advantage if you are looking for people to form a travel group, but
                                 prices are generally higher than during the rest of the year.
                                 TRAVEL LITERATURE
                                 Sitting at the top of the South American travelogue list is the humorous
                                 and well-written Inca-Kola, by Matthew Parris. It follows the meander-
                                 ings of several Englishmen on a rollicking circuit throughout Peru and
                                 parts of Bolivia.
                                    A great read, especially if you’re traveling in the lowlands, is Jungle:
                                 A Harrowing True Story of Survival (originally published as Back from
                                 Tuichi) by Yossi Ghinsberg; it’s about an Israeli traveler who gets lost
                                 in the Parque Nacional Madidi in the early 1980s and how he finds his
                                 way out of the jungle. Other travel books that are worth noting include
                                 Chasing Ché: A Motorcycle Journey in Search of the Guevara Legend,
                                 by Patrick Symmes, and The Incredible Voyage: A Personal Odyssey, by
                                 Tristan Jones, which follows the intrepid sailor’s journey through
                                 landlocked Bolivia on Lake Titicaca and beyond. An offbeat historical
                                 character is portrayed in Lizzie: A Victorian Lady’s Amazon Adventure,
                                 compiled by Anne Rose from the letters of Lizzie Hessel, who lived in
                                 the Bolivian Amazon settlement of Colonia Orton during the rubber
                                 boom of the early 20th century. Exploration Fawcett, by Percy Fawcett,
                                 is a fabulous jungle travel book from the early 20th century.
                                    Less travelogue and more history book is the comprehensive synthesis
                                 of recent Bolivian political history, Bolivia: Between a Rock and a Hard
                                 Place, by Pete Good, which provides the most up-to-date commentary
                                 on Bolivia. You can find copies for sale in many travel agencies and
                                 hotels in La Paz. The Fat Man from La Paz: Contemporary Fiction from
                                 Bolivia, a collection of short stories edited by Rosario Santos, is a widely
                                 recommended read. For a good synopsis of Bolivian history, politics and
                                 culture, check out Bolivia in Focus, by Robert Werner.
                                    Some good suggestions for books in general are available if you look
                                 on the excellent website www.libreriaboliviana.com (in Spanish).
        TOP            PICKS
        FESTIVALS & EVENTS
        Thanks to their rich culture, imbibed with tradition, Bolivians are big on celebrating. There’s
        almost always something fascinating going on, from saints’ days in small villages to nationwide
        events. The following is a list of our favorites. See p332 for more details of festivals and events
        throughout the country.
         El Gran Poder (La Paz), May/June (p76)               Fiesta de San Bartolomé; Chu’tillos (Potosí),
         Carnaval (nationwide, p332; best in Oruro,
                                                                 August (p236)
           p157, and Tarija, p249), February/March             Fiesta del Espíritu (Potosí), June (p235)
         Pujllay (Tarabuco), March (p223)                     Fiesta de la Virgen de Urkupiña (Quillacollo),
         Fiesta de la Cruz (Lake Titicaca), May 3
                                                                 August 15–18 (Cochabamba; p197)
           (p104)                                              International Theater Festival (Santa Cruz),
         Fiesta del Santo Patrono de Moxos (San
                                                                 April (p268)
           Ignacio de Moxos), July 31 (p311)                   International Festival of Baroque Music
                                                                 (Santa Cruz), April (p268)
        EXTREME ADVENTURES
        Bolivia’s rugged landscape and outgoing, knowledgeable tour guides offer innumerable thrilling
        adventures. Whether you want to hang off a precipice or walk on the wild side in the jungle,
        Bolivia’s got it all.
         Hike the Mapiri trail, a demanding but               Conquer the 6088m Huayna Potosí (p141)
           superb walking trek (p138)                          Soak in hot springs at the base of Nevado
         Do the tandem mountain bike and raft trip              Sajama (p164)
           from Sorata to Rurrenabaque (p135)                  Go wild by heading upriver to a jungle-
         Tackle the remote Quimsa Cruz range – not to           based community ecolodge (p306)
           be missed if you’re a serious climber (p150)        Trek the Trans Cordillera route from Sorata
         Shoot the rapids from Class II–V in the                to Huayna Potosí and Illimani (p134)
           Yungas (p121)                                       Head to the most remote of remote
         Float the Río Mamoré through pristine                  national parks, Noel Kempff Mercado,
           Amazon jungle (p314)                                  for an awesome nature experience (p318)
        MOUTH-WATERING EATS
        There are some excellent countrywide eateries, as well as plenty of must-try local Bolivian specialties.
        To tantalize your taste buds, try the following five eateries and five taste sensations.
         El Huerto, Sucre – a classy garden-party             Nayjama, Oruro – renowned for the local
           eating experience (p220)                              Oruro specialty, boiled sheep’s head (p160)
         La Estancia, Cochabamba – for lovers of              Salteñas – heavenly pastry parcels filled with
           meat, this is hard to beat (p198)                     chicken, beef and vegetables (p42)
         Casa Típica de Camba, Santa Cruz – for an            Tamales – those from the Tupiza market are
           authentically Bolivian experience (p270)              especially scrumptious (p184)
         La Comedie Art-Café Restaurant, La Paz –             Trucha – the famed (and now farmed) Lake
           French/Bolivian fusion cuisine with a touch           Titicaca trout satisfies any fish cravings (p105)
           of class (p82)
                                 INTERNET RESOURCES
                                 Bolivia.com (www.bolivia.com, in Spanish) Current news and cultural information.
                                 Bolivia web (www.boliviaweb.com) Good portal with a variety of cultural and artistic links, and
                                 more.
                                 Bolivian.com (www.bolivian.com, in Spanish) Spanish-language portal with a slew of links and
                                 some travel info.
                                 Boliviacontact.com (www.boliviacontact.com) Thorough, searchable index of Bolivian sites.
                                 GBT Bolivia (www.gbtbolivia.com) Solid commercial site with travel links.
                                 Noticias Bolivianas (www.noticiasbolivianas.com, in Spanish) Comprehensive news site with
                                 links to major media.
                                 South America Explorers Club (www.saexplorers.org) Interesting trip reports and travel
                                 bulletins.
     Itineraries
     CLASSIC ROUTES
     CULTURE VULTURES & NATURE NOMADS                          Two to Three Weeks
     Stimulate your senses around the streets of La Paz (p60) before heading by
     bus to Sucre (p210). It’s worth going via Cochabamba (p190), a great place
     to eat and get your cultural fill. Sucre is the place to visit churches and
     museums, and offers fascinating short sojourns to nearby villages, famous
     for their craftworks; try Tarabuco (p222). From here, head by bus to Potosí
     (p227), a starkly beautiful Unesco World Heritage city, situated at 4070m.
     Visit and learn about the cooperative mines, still in operation. You can
     thaw your chills in the nearby Tarapaya hot springs (p242). Jump on an
     overnight bus to Tupiza (p180), former territory of Butch Cassidy and the
     Sundance Kid. Here, there’s a choice of hikes and horseback or bike rides
     among the colored rocks of the surrounding quebradas (ravines). Join a
     tour from here to Uyuni (p166) and to cruise your way around a three- or
     four-day Southwest Circuit tour of the Salar de Uyuni (p174) and the Reserva
     Nacional de Fauna Andina Eduardo Avaroa (p173). From Uyuni make your way
     up to Oruro (p153), famed for its Carnaval. Alternatively, from Tupiza head
     to Tarija (p245) and its surrounds, a relaxing town and region, and Bolivia’s
     heart of paleontology and viticulture. From Tarija you can fly or bus to
     La Paz; from Oruro it’s an easy three-hour bus ride.
                                                                                     For those who love
                                                                                     a mix of culture
                                                                                     and action, Bolivia
                                                                                     has it all. A visit
                                                                                     to colonial towns,
                                                                                     craft centers and
                                                                                     mining regions
                                                                                     will tantalize your
                                                                                     traveling taste
                                                                                     buds. You can
                                                                                     skate across salt
                                                                                     plains one day,
                                                                                     and dance with
                                                                                     the devils the
                                                                                     next.
                                  TAILORED TRIPS
                                  NATIONAL PARKS & RESERVES
                                  Bolivia has protected 18% of its territory in 22 national parks and re-
                                  serves. From Reserva Biológica Cordillera de Sama’s (p254) slice of the Al-
                                  tiplano, to the inundated savannas of the remote, but spectacular,
                                  Parque Nacional Noel Kempff Mercado (p318), flora and fauna fans will be
                                  in their element. Although some of these protected areas can be dif-
                                  ficult to access, the following places are worth every ounce of the
                                  effort they take to reach.
                                     Parque Nacional Sajama (p163) with its vicuñas, soaring volcanoes (in-
                                  cluding Bolivia’s highest peak) and heavenly hot springs was Bolivia’s
                                  first reserve. Parque Nacional Madidi (p308) is possibly now the best known,
                                                              encompassing one of the most biodiverse
                                                               habitats in the world and featuring numerous
                                                               protected species.
                                                                  Parque Nacional Carrasco (p300) and Parque
                                                               Nacional Tunari (p201) are two of the more ac-
                                                               cessible, middle-altitude cloud forests, while
                                                               Parque Nacional y Área de Uso Múltiple Amboró
                                                               (p276) is a prime place for bird-watching.
                                                                  Área Natural de Manejo Integrado Nacional
                                                               Apolobamba (p146) is one of the least visited
                                                               national parks, while the most popular, Reserva
                                                               Nacional de Fauna Andina Eduardo Avaroa (p173),
                                                               receives tens of thousands of visitors per year
                                                               and is part of the Southwest Circuit.
              The Authors
                                         ANJA MUTIĆ                            Coordinating Author, Southern Altiplano
                                         While growing up in Croatia, New York-based Anja Mutić had a deep fas-
                                         cination with the ancient civilizations and mysterious rainforests of South
                                         America. In 2002, she spent six weeks traveling around Bolivia, immedi-
                                         ately enchanted with its remote landscapes and indigenous cultures. She
                                         descended into the mines of Potosí, swam in Inca hot springs, found herself
                                         in the midst of a coca peasants’ roadblock and got lost in the Amazon. For
                                         this book, she was repeatedly hit by water balloons leading up to Carnaval.
                                         Still, she’d go back in a snap.
              CONTRIBUTING AUTHOR
              Dr David Goldberg MD completed his training in internal medicine and infectious diseases at Columbia-
              Presbyterian Medical Center in New York City, where he has also served as voluntary faculty. At present,
              he is an infectious diseases specialist in Scarsdale NY and the editor-in-chief of the website www
              .MDTravelHealth.com
                                                                                                                 THE AUTHORS
        LONELY PLANET AUTHORS
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        dedicated travellers. They don’t take freebies in exchange for positive coverage so you can be
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        beaten track. They don’t research using just the internet or phone. They discover new places not
        included in any other guidebook. They personally visit thousands of hotels, restaurants, palaces,
        trails, galleries, temples and more. They speak with dozens of locals every day to make sure you get
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                   © Lonely Planet. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted.
                   In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other
                   words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know,
                   or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the
                   right thing with our content.’
                                                                                                              21
     History
     Tangible history lives on in most of Bolivia’s best-known destinations.                For more information on
     From pre-Hispanic archaeological sites and living indigenous traditions                the fascinating Tiwanaku
     to colonial architecture and the more recent headline-making political                 site, read Alan Kolata’s A
     upheaval, the country’s history reflects the influences that have shaped               Valley of Spirits (Wiley &
     South America as a whole.                                                              Sons, 1996).
         The great Altiplano (which literally means high plateau), the largest
     expanse of arable land in the Andes, extends from present-day Bolivia
     into southern Peru, northwestern Argentina and northern Chile. While
     it’s been inhabited for thousands of years, the region’s early cultures were
     shaped by the imperial designs of two major forces: the Tiwanaku culture
     of Bolivia and the Inca of Peru.
         Most archaeologists define the prehistory of the Central Andes in
     terms of ‘horizons’ – Early, Middle and Late – each of which was charac-
     terized by distinct architectural and artistic trends. Cultural interchanges
     between the early Andean peoples occurred mostly through trade, usually
     between nomadic tribes or as a result of the diplomatic expansionist
     activities of powerful and well-organized societies. These interchanges
     resulted in the Andes’ emergence as the cradle of South America’s highest
     cultural achievements.
         During the initial settlement of the Andes, from the arrival of nomads,
     probably from Siberia, until about 1400 BC, villages and ceremonial
     centers were established, and trade emerged between coastal fishing
     communities and farming villages of the highlands.
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